Wingspan: 33.5" [850mm]
Fuselage Length: 37" [935mm]
Wing Area: 383 sq in [24.7dm2]
Weight Range: 27.5-31oz [780-880g]
Wing Loading: 10.3-11.6 oz/sq ft [32-36 g/dm2]
Motor: 35-30-950kV RimFire Outrunner Motor
Radio: 4-Channel Minimum with Micro Receiver and Four Micro Servos
WARRANTY
Great Planes® Model Manufacturing Co. guarantees this kit to
be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date
of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts
damaged by use or modifi cation. In no case shall Great Planes’ liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further,
Great Planes reserves the right to change or modify this warranty
without notice.
In that Great Planes has no control over the fi nal assembly or
material used for fi nal assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor
accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of
the fi nal user-assembled product. By the act of using the userassembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated
with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to return
READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL BEFORE STARTING CONSTRUCTION. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT
INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.
this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place
of purchase.
To make a warranty claim send the defective part or item to Hobby
Services at the address below:
Hobby Services
3002 N. Apollo Dr., Suite 1
Champaign, IL 61822 USA
Include a letter stating your name, return shipping address, as
much contact information as possible (daytime telephone number,
fax number, e-mail address), a detailed description of the problem
and a photocopy of the purchase receipt. Upon receipt of the
package, the problem will be evaluated as quickly as possible.
3D FLYING ...................................................................... 27
The Ultimate Biplane EP ARF is the third release in a line of
electric built-up, all-out performance 3D planes. The Ultimate
is a fantastic fl yer and can perform virtually any aerobatic
maneuver with authority. High-capacity LiPo battery packs
will allow you the convenience of electric fl ying, combined
with the same “ultimate” fl ight characteristics of planes much
larger in size, like the Great Planes Ultimate Bipe 1.60 ARF. In
addition to offering the fl ight performance of a large 3D plane
in a small package, the exciting trim scheme from the Ultimate
Biplane 1.60 ARF has been carried down to the Ultimate EP.
For the latest technical updates or manual corrections to the
Ultimate Biplane EP visit the Great Planes web site at www.
greatplanes.com. Open the “Airplanes” link, then select the
Ultimate Biplane EP ARF. If there is new technical information
or changes to this model, a “tech notice” box will appear in
the upper left corner of the page.
AMA
We urge you to join the AMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics)
and a local R/C club. The AMA is the governing body of model
aviation and membership is required to fl y at AMA clubs.
Though joining the AMA provides many benefi ts, one of the
primary reasons to join is liability protection. Coverage is not
limited to fl ying at contests or on the club fi eld. It even applies
to fl ying at public demonstrations and air shows. Failure to
comply with the Safety Code (excerpts printed in the back of
the manual) may endanger insurance coverage. Additionally,
training programs and instructors are available at AMA club
sites to help you get started the right way. There are over
2,500 AMA chartered clubs across the country. Contact the
AMA at the address or toll-free phone number below.
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302
Tele: (800) 435-9262
Fax (765) 741-0057
Or via the Internet at:
http://www.modelaircraft.org
IMPORTANT!!! Two of the most important things you can do
to preserve the radio controlled aircraft hobby are to avoid
fl ying near full-scale aircraft and avoid fl ying near or over
groups of people.
Scale Competition
Though the Great Planes Ultimate Biplane EP is an ARF and
may not have the same level of detail as an “all-out” scratchbuilt competition model, it is a scale model nonetheless
and is therefore eligible to compete in the Fun Scale class
in AMA competition (we receive many favorable reports of
Great Planes ARF’s in scale competition!). In Fun Scale, the
2
Page 3
“builder of the model” rule does not apply. Contact the AMA
for a rule book with full details.
If you would like photos of the full-size Ultimate Biplane for
scale documentation, or if you would like to study the photos
to add more scale details, photo packs are available from:
Bob’s Aircraft Documentation
3114 Yukon Ave
Costa Mesa, CA 92626
Telephone: (714) 979-8058, Fax: (714) 979-7279
www.bobsairdoc.com
PROTECT YOUR MODEL, YOURSELF
& OTHERS...FOLLOW THESE
IMPORTANT SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
1. Your Ultimate Biplane EP ARF should not be considered a
toy, but rather a sophisticated, working model that functions
very much like a full-size airplane. Because of its performance
capabilities, the Ultimate Biplane, if not assembled and
operated correctly, could possibly cause injury to yourself or
spectators and damage to property.
9. WARNING: The cowl included in this kit is made of fi berglass,
the fi bers of which may cause eye, skin and respiratory tract
irritation. Never blow into a part to remove fi berglass dust,
as the dust will blow back into your eyes. Always wear safety
goggles, a particle mask and rubber gloves when grinding,
drilling and sanding fi berglass parts. Vacuum the parts and
the work area thoroughly after working with fi berglass parts.
We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a top quality,
thoroughly tested kit and instructions, but ultimately the
quality and fl yability of your fi nished model depends
on how you build it; therefore, we cannot in any way
guarantee the performance of your completed model,
and no representations are expressed or implied as to
the performance or safety of your completed model.
Remember: Take your time and follow the instructions to
end up with a well-built model that is straight and true.
LITHIUM BATTERY
HANDLING & USAGE
2. You must assemble the model according to the instructions.
Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so may result in an
unsafe or unfl yable model. In a few cases the instructions may
differ slightly from the photos. In those instances the written
instructions should be considered as correct.
3. You must take time to build straight, true and strong.
4. You must use an R/C radio system that is in fi rst-class
condition, and a correctly sized motor and components
throughout the building process.
5. You must correctly install all R/C and other components so
that the model operates correctly on the ground and in the air.
6. You must check the operation of the model before every
fl ight to insure that all equipment is operating and that the
model has remained structurally sound. Be sure to check
clevises or other connectors often and replace them if they
show any signs of wear or fatigue.
7. If you are not an experienced pilot or have not fl own
this type of model before, we recommend that you get the
assistance of an experienced pilot in your R/C club for
your fi rst fl ights. If you’re not a member of a club, your local
hobby shop has information about clubs in your area whose
membership includes experienced pilots.
WARNING!! Read the entire instruction sheet included with
the battery. Failure to follow all instructions could cause
permanent damage to the battery and its surroundings, and
cause bodily harm!
• ONLY use a LiPo approved charger. NEVER use a NiCd/
NiMH peak charger!
• NEVER charge in excess of 4.20V per cell.
• ONLY charge through the “charge” lead. NEVER charge
through the “discharge” lead.
• NEVER charge at currents greater than 1C.
• ALWAYS set charger’s output volts to match battery volts.
• ALWAYS charge in a fi reproof location.
• NEVER trickle charge.
• NEVER allow battery temperature to exceed 150° F (65° C).
• NEVER disassemble or modify pack wiring in any way or
puncture cells.
• NEVER discharge below 2.5V per cell.
8. While this kit has been fl ight tested to exceed normal use,
if the plane will be used for extremely high stress fl ying, such
as racing, or if a motor larger than one in the recommended
range is used, the modeler is responsible for taking steps to
reinforce the high stress points and/or substituting hardware
more suitable for the increased stress.
• NEVER place on combustible materials or leave unattended
during charge or discharge.
• ALWAYS KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN.
3
Page 4
ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED
This is a partial list of items required to fi nish the Ultimate Biplane
EP ARF that may require planning or decision-making before
starting to build. Order numbers are provided in parentheses.
Radio Equipment
A 4-channel radio system with four micro servos and a micro
receiver are required for this plane. The servos and receiver
shown in the manual are Futaba® S3110 micro servos and
the Futaba R114F micro receiver. The S3110 servo model is
currently being replaced with the S3114 which is suitable for
use in the Ultimate. Two 6" [150mm] servo extensions, two 16”
[406mm] servo extensions, and a Y-harness are also required.
Order numbers for these items are provided below.
❏ Great Planes LiPo 1250mAh 11.1V 20C Discharge
w/Balance (GPMP0609)
❏ Great Planes LiPo 1500mAh 11.1V 20C Discharge
w/Balance (GPMP0613)
❏ Great Planes LiPo 2100mAh 11.1V 20C Discharge
w/Balance (GPMP0617)
Do not use Great Planes LiPo 1500mAh 11.1V 3S 8C Discharge
(GPMP0831). This battery pack is not capable of supporting
the current draw of the recommended power systems.
A LiPo-compatible charger is required for these batteries,
along with a cell balancer:
❏ Great Planes PolyCharge4
❏ Great Planes Equinox
™
DC LiPo Charger (GPMM3015)
™
LiPo Cell Balancer (GPMM3160)
❏ Four Futaba S3114 Micro HT Servo (FUTM0414)
❏ Futaba R114F FM Micro Receiver (Low Band – FUTL0442,
The Ultimate Biplane EP ARF requires a C35-30-950kV
brushless out-runner motor. The order numbers for this motor
and accompanying propeller are provided below.
❏ Great Planes RimFire
Motor (GPMG4590)
™
35-30-950 Brushless Out-Runner
❏ APC 11x3.8SF Slo-Flyer Propeller (APCQ5017)
Note: Motors from other manufacturers may work with the
Ultimate Biplane EP ARF. However, the included fi rewall
pieces are designed to work specifi cally with the Great
Planes motor listed.
Electronic Speed Control
A brushless electronic speed control is required for this
plane. We recommend using the Great Planes Silver Series
25A Brushless ESC 5V/2A BEC (GPMM1820).
Battery Pack & Charger
The Ultimate Biplane EP ARF has been tested with 11.1V
LiPo packs ranging from 1250mAh to 2100mAh. Order
numbers are provided for packs of this size. The lighter
1250mAh pack is suggested for maximum performance.
Adhesives and Building Supplies
This is the list of adhesive and building supplies required
to fi nish the Ultimate Biplane EP ARF. Order numbers are
provided in parentheses.
❏ 1/2 oz. [15g] Thin Pro CA (GPMR6001)
❏ 1/2 oz. [15g] Medium Pro CA+ (GPMR6007)
❏ 1/2 oz. [15g] Thick Pro CA- (GPMR6013)
❏ Pro 30-Minute Epoxy (GPMR6047)
❏ Denatured Alcohol
❏ Drill Bits: 3/64" [1.2mm], 1/8" [3mm]
❏ #1 Hobby Knife (HCAR0105)
❏ #11 Blades (5-pack, HCAR0211)
❏ Hobbico
®
Steel T-Pins 1" (100) (HCAR5100)
❏ Great Planes Pro Threadlocker (GPMR6060)
❏ CA Applicator Tips (HCAR3780)
❏ Small Spring Clamps
❏ 220 Grit Sandpaper
Optional Supplies and Tools
Here is a list of optional tools mentioned in the manual that
will help you build the Ultimate Biplane EP ARF.
❏ 21st Century
❏ 21st Century Iron Cover (COVR2702)
❏ 2 oz. [57g] Spray CA Activator (GPMR6035)
❏ 4 oz. [113g] Aerosol CA Activator (GPMR634)
❏ CA Debonder (GPMR6039)
❏ Epoxy Brushes (6, GPMR8060)
❏ Mixing Sticks (50, GPMR8055)
❏ Mixing Cups (GPMR8056)
❏ Hobbico Duster
❏ Panel Line Pen (TOPQ2510)
❏ Rotary Tool such as Dremel
❏ Hobbico Flexible 18" Ruler Stainless Steel (HCAR0460)
4
®
Sealing Iron (COVR2700)
™
Compressed Air (HCAR5500)
®
with Cutoff Wheel
Page 5
IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES
ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS
• When you see the term test fi t in the instructions, it means
that you should fi rst position the part on the assembly
without using any glue, then slightly modify or custom fi t
the part as necessary for the best fi t.
• Whenever the term glue is written you should rely upon
your experience to decide what type of glue to use. When
a specifi c type of adhesive works best for that step, the
instructions will make a recommendation.
• Whenever just epoxy is specifi ed you may use either 30-
minute (or 45-minute) epoxy or 6-minute epoxy. When 30minute epoxy is specifi ed it is highly recommended that
you use only 30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy, because you
will need the working time and/or the additional strength.
• Photos and sketches are placed before the step they
refer to. Frequently you can study photos in following steps
to get another view of the same parts.
• The stabilizer and wing incidences and engine thrust angles
have been factory-built into this model. However, some
technically-minded modelers may wish to check these
measurements anyway. To view this information visit the web
site at www.greatplanes.com and click on “Technical Data.”
Due to manufacturing tolerances which will have little or no
effect on the way your model will fl y, please expect slight
deviations between your model and the published values.
Replacement parts for the Great Planes Ultimate Biplane EP
ARF are available using the order numbers in the Replacement
Parts List that follows. The fastest, most economical service
can be provided by your hobby dealer or mail-order company.
To locate a hobby dealer, visit the Great Planes web site
at www.greatplanes.com. Choose “Where to Buy” at the
bottom of the menu on the left side of the page. Follow the
instructions provided on the page to locate a U.S., Canadian
or International dealer.
Parts may also be ordered directly from Hobby Services by
calling (217) 398-0007, or via facsimile at (217) 398-7721,
but full retail prices and shipping and handling charges will
apply. Illinois and Nevada residents will also be charged
sales tax. If ordering via fax, include a Visa
®
or MasterCard®
number and expiration date for payment.
Mail parts orders and payments by personal check to:
Hobby Services
3002 N. Apollo Drive, Suite 1
Champaign, IL 61822
Be certain to specify the order number exactly as listed in
the Replacement Parts List. Payment by credit card or
personal check only; no C.O.D.
If additional assistance is required for any reason, contact
Product Support by telephone at (217) 398-8970, or by
e-mail at productsupport@greatplanes.com.
Replacement Parts List
Order Number Description How to Purchase
Missing pieces ............... Contact Product Support
Instruction manual .......... Contact Product Support
Full-size plans ...................................Not available
GPMA2970 ........... Fuselage ........................ Contact Product Support
GPMA2971 ........... Top Wing ........................ Contact Product Support
GPMA2972 ........... Bottom Wing ...................Contact Product Support
GPMA2973 ........... Tail Surfaces ................... Contact Product Support
GPMA2974 ........... Cowl ...............................Contact Product Support
GPMA2975 ........... Interplane Set ................. Contact Product Support
GPMA2976 ........... Cabane Set ....................Contact Product Support
GPMA2977 ........... Wheelpants ....................Contact Product Support
GPMA2978 ........... Landing Gear ................. Contact Product Support
GPMA2979 ........... Canopy ........................... Contact Product Support
GPMA2980 ........... Decal Sheet ................... Contact Product Support
GPMA2981 ........... Spinner ........................... Contact Product Support
GPMA2982 ........... Hardware Set .................Contact Product Support
5
Page 6
KIT INSPECTION
Before starting to build, take an inventory of this kit to make sure it is complete, and inspect the parts to make sure they
are of acceptable quality. If any parts are missing or are not of acceptable quality, or if you need assistance with assembly,
contact Product Support. When reporting defective or missing parts, use the part names exactly as they are written in the
Kit Contents list.
Great Planes Product Support
3002 N. Apollo Drive, Suite 1
Champaign, IL 61822
Telephone: (217) 398-8970, ext. 5
Fax: (217) 398-7721
E-mail: airsupport@greatplanes.com
KIT CONTENTS
17
1516
11
10
5
1. Left Bottom Wing Panel w/Aileron
2. Right Bottom Wing Panel w/Aileron
3. Left Top Wing Panel w/Aileron
4. Right Top Wing Panel w/Aileron
5. Interplane Struts (2)
6. Horizontal Stabilizer
7. Elevator Halves (L&R)
8. Vertical Fin
9. Rudder
12
13
6
7
12
10. Spinner
11. Landing Gear
12. Wheels
13. Wheel Pants
14. Tail Skid
15. Cowl
16. Fuselage
17. Canopy
6
6
14
8
43
9
Page 7
BEFORE YOU BEGIN
Before you begin assembly, closely inspect all of the covered
components. Carefully remove the control surfaces that are
taped in place. Use a covering iron with a covering iron sock
on low/medium heat to tighten the covering in any areas that
are loose, disconnected, or wrinkled.
ASSEMBLE THE WINGS
Install the Ailerons
❏ 1. Test fi t a CA hinge halfway into each hinge slot in the
top and bottom wing panels and ailerons. If the hinges are
diffi cult to insert or the covering needs to be cut open over
the slots, use a sharp hobby knife to slightly enlarge the slot
or slit open the covering. To improve the adhesion of the
CA hinges, we recommend trimming the covering from just
above and below the hinge slots.
❏ 2. Push a small T-pin through the center of each CA hinge.
The pins will keep the hinges centered during assembly.
Insert the hinges into the hinge slots in the wing panels. Fit
the ailerons onto the other ends of the hinges and align the
outside tips of the ailerons with the wing tips.
❏ 3. Remove the pins from the hinges and push the ailerons
against the trailing edges of the wing panels. Defl ect the
ailerons down to their maximum throw (beveled leading
edge of aileron is against the trailing edge of the wing) and
apply 7-8 drops of thin CA glue to each hinge. Do not use
CA accelerator on the hinges. Flip the wing panels over and
apply the same amount of CA to the other side of each hinge.
Allow the CA a minute or two to harden and then tug on each
aileron to confi rm they are well secured to the wings.
7
Page 8
Install the Aileron Servos & Pushrods
❏ 1. Trim the covering from the aileron servo bays on the
underside of the bottom wing panels as shown.
❏ 4. Feed the servo leads through the servo bays and out
the cutouts in the wing root ribs. Position the servos in the
servo bays with the splines toward the LE. Glue the aileron
servos to the servo shims with medium or thick CA. Attach a
6" [150mm] servo extension to each aileron servo. Use tape
to secure the extension to the servo lead.
❏ 2. Glue two aileron servo shims together, being sure to
keep the edges fl ush. Make two sets of these.
❏ 3. Trim approximately 1/16" [1.6mm] of covering from the
perimeter of the aileron servo bays. Glue the aileron servo
shims to the wing panels centered over the servo bays.
❏ 5. Use your radio system to center the aileron servos. Servo
arms are provided to fi t the splines of most micro servo models.
Locate two double-sided servo arms that fi t the model servos
you are using. Test fi t a double-sided servo arm onto each
aileron servo. Determine which way the arm fi ts closest to being
parallel with the aileron hinge line. Cut off the unused sides of
the arms, leaving the sides that point to the wing tips.
❏ 6. Locate four adjustable clevises from the hardware
package. Slide a clevis onto one end of each 2x215mm
8
Page 9
carbon fi ber pushrod. Loosely thread a 2x4mm self-tapping
screw into each clevis. The screw head should be in the
recessed end of the hole in the clevis. Hook the clevis to the
outer holes in the servo arms.
❏ ❏ 9. Attach a clevis to the outer hole of the control horn and
slide the pushrod through the clevis connecting the aileron
to the servo. Position the aileron in the neutral position and
tighten the screws in the adjustable clevises (be sure that
the pushrod is positioned so the excess pushrod can be cut
off from one end and re-used). Cut off the excess pushrod
beyond the control horn clevis. Save the excess pushrod. It
will be used to join the top and bottom ailerons together. If
you haven’t done so, secure the servo arm to the servo using
the screw included with the servo.
❏ ❏ 7. Cut the bottom from a control horn tab leaving
approximately 5/32" [4mm] remaining on the control horn.
Using the pushrod as a guide, position a control horn on
the aileron in line with the outer hole of the servo arm and
the holes in the control horn over the hinge line. Press the
control horn tab into the aileron making an indentation. Cut
a 1/16" [1.6mm] slot at the indentation 4-5mm deep using a
sharp hobby knife. Be careful not to cut through the top of
the wing.
❏ 10. Repeat steps 7-9 for the other bottom wing panel.
Do not use the excess 2x215mm pushrod for the other
aileron pushrod! Use another 2x215mm pushrod to make
the second aileron pushrod.
Attach the Wings
❏ ❏ 8. Glue the control horn in place with medium or thick
CA glue.
❏ 1. A fuselage stand is included to simplify gluing the wings
to the fuselage. Glue the stand and wing supports together
as shown. The arrows on the long side pieces should point
toward the front (tall end).
❏ 2. Trim away the covering that overlaps onto the wing
root ribs.
9
Page 10
❏ 4. Before you begin this step, prepare a weighted object to
hold the fuselage and wings in place while the epoxy cures.
We used a sock fi lled with sand as shown in the picture. Coat
the root ribs of the bottom wing panels with 30-minute epoxy
(Do not put epoxy on the spars until instructed to do so in the
next step). Put a coating of epoxy in the wing pockets as well.
Insert the wing panels into the fuselage and place the plane
onto the fuselage stand. Place your weight onto the top of the
fuselage to hold it down. Slide the wing supports underneath
the second outer wing ribs. The front edge of the supports
should line up with the LE of the wing panels. Confi rm that
the wing panels are fully seated in the pockets and the wing
is sitting fl at on the supports. Wipe away any excess epoxy
with denatured alcohol and let the epoxy cure undisturbed.
❏ 3. Test fi t the wing panels into the wing pockets in the
fuselage. The wing spars that extend beyond the root rib are
designed to interlock with each other when the wings are fi t in
place. Confi rm that the wing root ribs fully seat into the pockets.
If not, sand the ends of the spars as necessary until they do.
The fuselage stand is designed to fi t into the fuselage hatch
cutout and support the fuse just behind the fi rewall as shown.
❏ 5. Apply a coat of epoxy to the plywood spar doubler
on the side with the thin balsa laminate. Coat the aft side of
the wing spars with epoxy. Use small clamps to hold the spar
doubler to the aft side of the spars while the epoxy cures.
10
Page 11
BUILD THE FUSELAGE
Assemble the Tail Section
Be sure you are drilling through the center of the elevators,
perpendicular to the LE. Trim away approximately 1/16"
[1.6mm] of the LE between the holes you made and the
inside edge of the elevators.
❏ 1. Trim the covering from the horizontal stabilizer slot in
the fuselage.
❏ 2. Place the horizontal stabilizer on your work surface
and align the elevator halves behind it. Separate the elevator
halves 1" [25mm] apart as shown. Center the elevator joiner wire over the elevator halves. Mark the position of the joiner
wire ends at the LE of each elevator half.
❏ 4. Test fi t the elevator joiner wire into the holes. Lay the
elevators down on a fl at work surface and confi rm that they
lay fl at. If not, remove the joiner wire and “tweak”, or twist it
until they do. Do not attempt to bend the joiner wire while it is
inside the elevator halves.
❏ 3. Using a 3/64" [1.2mm] drill bit, make a 3/4" [19mm]
deep hole into each elevator half at the marks you made.
❏ 5. Position the horizontal stab in the stab slot, being sure
that it is as far forward in the slot as it will go. Center the stab
left and right in the fuse, and square its position by measuring
the distance between the tips of the stab and the wing tips
and making them equal. When satisfi ed, use a fi ne, felt-tip
pen to trace the outline of the fuselage onto the stab.
11
Page 12
❏ 6. Trim the covering from the stab just inside the lines you
drew. Wipe away the lines with denatured alcohol.
HOW TO CUT COVERING FROM BALSA
Use a soldering iron to cut the covering from the stab. The tip
of the soldering iron doesn’t have to be sharp, but a fi ne tip
does work best. Allow the iron to hear fully.
❏ 8. As you did with the ailerons, join the elevator halves to the
stabilizer using the elevator joiner rod and CA hinges. Before
gluing the hinges, be sure that the elevator halves move freely
up and down. Glue joiner wire in place using thin CA.
Use a straightedge to guide the soldering iron at a rate that
will just melt the covering and not burn into the wood. The
hotter the soldering iron, the faster it must travel to melt a
fi ne cut. Peel off the covering.
❏ 7. Insert the elevator joiner wire into the aft end of the stab
slot. Slide the stab into the fuselage and center its position.
Stand back several feet and view the model from behind.
Ensure that the stab is level in the fuselage by confi rming it
is parallel with the bottom wing. If not, use tape or a weight to
level the stab. When satisfi ed, glue the stab into the fuselage.
❏ 9. Trim the covering from the vertical fi n slot in the fuselage.
Fit the vertical fi n into the fuselage and trace the fuse shape
onto the fi n. Remove the fi n, cut the covering below the lines
you drew, and glue the fi n into position. Do not remove the
covering from the trailing edge of the fi n.
❏ 10. Attach the rudder with CA hinges.
12
Page 13
Install the Tail Servos & Pushrods
❏ 3. With the elevator servo centered, attach a double-sided
servo arm vertically. Determine which way the arm fi ts best.
Cut the unused side from the servo arm, leaving the bottom
side as shown. As you did with the ailerons, loosely thread a
2x4mm self-tapping screw into an adjustable clevis and slide
it on a 2x135mm carbon pushrod. Attach the clevis to the
outer hole of the elevator servo arm.
❏ 1. Trim the covering from the elevator and rudder servo bays.
❏ 2. Connect a 16" [406mm] servo extension to the rudder
and elevator servos. Feed the servo extensions into the servo
bays and through the length of the fuselage. To improve the
adhesion of the servos to the servo bays, trim away the
covering just beneath the servo mounting tabs. Glue the
servos into the servo bays with the splines facing forward.
❏ 4. Using the pushrod as a guide for the location of the
control horn, cut a slot in the left elevator half for the horn.
Install the control horn onto the underside of the left elevator
half and glue it into place (do not cut the control horn tab
shorter before installation). Clip a control horn backplate onto
the control horn tab and glue it into place. The control horn tab
extending beyond the backplate can now be cut off. Connect
the pushrod to the control horn with another adjustable clevis.
Center the elevator, carefully tighten the screws into the
adjustable clevises onto the pushrod, and cut off the excess
pushrod beyond the clevises. Be sure to secure the servo arm
to the servo with the arm screw.
13
Page 14
❏ 5. Install the 2x135mm rudder pushrod in the same manner.
Install the Top Wing
❏ 1. Trim the covering that overlaps onto the root ribs of the
top wing panels. Leave the covering at the tops of the cabane
strut slots intact. Glue the 6x21mm wing joiner dowel
halfway into one of the top wing panels.
❏ 3. Trim the covering from interplane strut slots in the
bottom wing as well as the cabane slots in the fuselage.
❏ 2. Coat both root ribs of the top wing panels and the
protruding end of the wing joiner dowel with 30-minute epoxy.
Be careful not to get epoxy into the cabane strut slots!
Join the wing panels and use tape to hold them together
tightly while the epoxy cures. Use denatured alcohol to wipe
away any excess epoxy. A toothpick or something similar can
be used to scrape any epoxy that may have squeezed into
the cabane slots when the wing panels were joined.
❏ 4. Test fi t the interplane struts into the slots in the bottom
wing. The wider end of the strut is the bottom end. Mark the
forward and aft end of the struts onto the wing. Trim away a
narrow strip of covering from between the marks you made
(approximately 5/64" [2mm] wide).
14
Page 15
❏ 5. Trim the covering from the interplane strut slots on
the underside of the top wing. Repeat step #4 for the top
interplane strut slots.
Read all of steps 6-9. Test fi t all parts together (without glue)
before proceeding.
❏ 6. Test fi t everything fi rst, then glue the interplane struts
perpendicular to the bottom wing using medium or thick CA.
❏ 7. Assemble the cabane struts using four 2x5mm machine
screws, four 2mm nuts, and thread locking compound. Be
sure to make a left and right strut.
❏ 8. Test fi t the cabane struts into the underside of the top
wing. The strut ends should slide into the slots all the way
to the top surface of the wing. If they cannot, epoxy has
probably gathered in the slots. Use a hobby knife to clean
out the slots until the struts can fi t properly.
❏ 9. It is recommended to use 30-minute epoxy for this
step (the extra working time is benefi cial). Coat the top and
bottom ends of the cabane struts with epoxy and insert them
into the slots in the top wing. Put a bead of thick CA glue onto
the top edges of the interplane struts and onto the sides of
the interplane strut tabs. Fit one of the interplane struts into
the underside of the top wing. Fit the bottoms of the cabane
struts into the slots in the fuselage. Fit the other interplane
strut to the top wing. Use denatured alcohol to wipe away
any excess epoxy from around the cabane struts. A plywood
wing alignment guide is included to correctly set the height
of the center of the top wing above the fuselage when gluing
the cabanes. Fit it in place as shown and use tape to hold
the top wing tightly in place against the interplane struts and
against the alignment guide while the glue hardens.
15
Page 16
❏ 10. Cut four sides from servo arms left over in the hardware bag.
Cut them off close to the center so they are as long as possible.
❏ 12. Center the ailerons and join the top and bottom together
using adjustable clevises and the remainder of the 2x215mm
aileron pushrods. Tighten the adjustable clevises with 2x4mm
self-tapping screws and cut away the excess pushrod.
FINISH THE MODEL
Install the Landing Gear
❏ 11. Use a sharp hobby knife to cut a slot in each aileron
9/16" [14.3mm] long and 5/64" [2mm] wide centered in the
triangle block, inline with the aileron ribs as shown. Roughen
the sides of the servo arm pieces with sandpaper and glue
them into the slots using thick CA. Do not get any glue in the outer holes of the servo arm pieces! The outer holes
of the servo arm pieces should protrude beyond the trailing
edge of the ailerons. These will be used to join the top and
bottom ailerons together.
❏ 1. Measure and mark 1-11/16" [42mm] from the front and
5/32" [4mm] from the bottom of the wheel pants. Drill a 1/8"
[3mm] hole at your marks on one side of each wheel pant
(be sure to make a left and right pant). Accuracy during this
step will ensure that your wheels are centered in the pants.
When drilling the hole, make a pilot hole with a smaller bit
fi rst, then enlarge the hole to the correct diameter.
16
Page 17
❏ 2. Fit a 3x20mm machine screw (axle) through the hole in
the landing gear and through the hole in the wheel pant (the
angled side of the landing gear faces the rear of the plane).
Thread a 3mm nut onto the screw followed by a wheel.
Apply a drop of thread locking compound near the base of
the screw and tighten the nut against the inside of the pant.
Apply a drop of thread locking compound near the end of
the screw. Thread another 3mm nut onto the screw against
the wheel, but left slightly loose to allow the wheel to freely
rotate on the axle. Oil the axle if necessary. Repeat this step
for the other side of the gear.
❏ 4. Use a hobby knife to cut the covering over the slot in the
bottom of the tail skid. Glue the tail skid washer into the slot
as shown. The washer will help to prevent wear to the skid
when fl ying from a paved runway.
❏ 5. Position the tail skid approximately 1/4" [6mm] from the
aft end of fuselage and mark its position. Trim a 3/32" [2.4mm]
strip of covering down the center of the fuselage between
the marks you made. Trim the covering that overlaps onto
the longest side of the tail skid and glue the skid in place.
Install the Out-Runner Motor
❏ 3. Trim the covering from the three landing gear mounting
holes on the underside of the fuselage. Mount the landing
gear to the fuse with three 3x12mm machine screws and
thread locking compound. Rotate the wheel pants on the
axles so that they align with the fuselage.
❏ 1. Install four 3mm blind nuts into the back of the motor
mounting box. Use a 3x10mm machine screw, 3mm fl at washer,
and a plywood motor adapter to draw the blind nuts tight (the
motor adapter is necessary for this step because the blind nuts
will protrude slightly beyond the front of the mounting box).
17
Page 18
❏ 2. Attach the prop adapter to the front of the motor case
using the screws included with the motor. Harden the motor
mounting holes in the plywood motor adapter with thin CA
glue. Use the fl at head screws included with motor and thread
locking compound to attach the plywood motor adapter to
the back of the motor.
❏ 3. Use four 3x10mm machine screws, four 3mm fl at
washers, and thread locking compound to attach the motor
to the mounting box.
❏ 2. Connect the ESC to the motor leads and feed the receiver
lead through the front of the fuselage. The excess length of
motor leads can be wrapped through the side of the motor
mounting box to keep them out of the way as shown. Use a
piece of the included double-sided foam tape to secure the
ESC to the side of the motor mounting box. Position the ESC
on the aft end of the mounting box so that the ESC receiver
lead will reach the receiver.
Install the Electronics
❏ 1. Brush a thin coat of epoxy onto the bottom of one side
of the motor mounting box and down the center of the battery
mounting tray. The smooth surface of the epoxy will improve the
adhesion of the double-sided tape and hook & loop material.
❏ 3. Attach the hook side of the included hook & loop
material to the battery mounting tray.
❏ 4. Brush a thin coat of epoxy onto the aft side of the wing
spar. Connect the servos and ESC to the receiver. If you are
using a 4-channel receiver, a Y-harness or dual servo extension
is needed to join the aileron servos into one channel. When
the epoxy has hardened, use a piece of double-sided foam
tape to secure the receiver to the wing spar.
18
Page 19
❏ 5. Make a battery strap out of the supplied hook and loop
material 8" [200mm] long by overlapping two pieces and
cutting it to length. Feed it through the battery tray in the
location shown. The battery strap can be glued to the battery
tray with medium CA to keep it in place.
❏ 6. Use your radio system to confi rm that the motor rotates
in the correct direction (do not install the propeller). If the
motor rotates backwards, unplug two of the three motor
leads and swap their positions.
Install the Cowl
❏ 2. Glue the magnet back pieces over the holes in the
cowl ring. Glue a magnet into each hole in the cowl ring with
medium CA glue. Be sure that the magnets are glued into
the cowl ring in the correct orientation so that the cowl
ring will be magnetically drawn to the magnets in the
fi rewall. As you did with the fi rewall, apply a skin coating of
thin CA over the magnets in the cowl ring.
❏ 3. Prepare the inside of the cowl by lightly scuffi ng it with 220-
grit sandpaper. When satisfi ed, clean the inside with alcohol.
❏ 1. Lightly sand the magnet fi rst, then put a light coating of
medium CA glue into the magnet holes in the fi rewall and install
a magnet into each hole. Do not use excess CA as it will pool
in the bottom of the holes and prevent the magnets from being
glued in fl ush with the fi rewall. Be sure the magnets are fully
seated before the glue hardens. A plastic or wooden tool handle
is useful for lightly tapping the magnets in place. Apply a skin
coating of thin CA glue onto the face of the magnets overlapping
onto the wood around them to help secure them in place. Allow
the thin CA glue to harden without using accelerator.
❏ 4. Magnetically attach the cowl ring onto the fi rewall.
19
Page 20
❏ 5. Slide the cowl over the cowl ring and onto the fuselage.
Confi rm that the spinner backplate properly fi ts your motor
shaft. If not, ream or drill it to the correct diameter. Temporarily
install the spinner backplate onto the prop shaft. Adjust the
position of the cowl on the fuselage so that the colors line
up with the stripes on the fuselage. The spinner backplate
should be centered over the front cowl, and the backplate
should be approximately 5/64" [2mm] beyond the front of the
cowl. When satisfi ed, tack glue the cowl to the cowl ring in
the corners with medium CA by reaching through the front
openings in the cowl. A CA applicator tip is very useful in
this step. Do not allow CA glue to adhere the cowl ring to the fi rewall! Apply the CA sparingly in this step, using
accelerator if desired.
❏ 7. Use a rotary tool such as a Dremel with a cutoff wheel
installed to open up the cowl for battery installation as
shown. The cutout should be as wide as the battery tray and
2" [51mm] long. Also, open up a cool air inlet for the battery
just below the prop opening in the cowl.
❏ 6. Carefully remove the cowl (and cowl ring) from the
fuselage and apply a fi llet of medium or thick CA glue along
the front only of the cowl ring where it touches the cowl.
Final Assembly
❏ 1. Use a hobby knife to cut a small notch at the edge of the
battery hatch opening for the receiver antenna wire. Tape the
receiver antenna to the underside of the fuselage. Be sure
that it does not interfere with the elevators or rudder.
20
Page 21
❏ 4. Before attaching the canopy, apply the instrument panel
decal to the cockpit. The canopy can be taped in position
as shown.
Apply the Decals
1. Use scissors or a sharp hobby knife to cut the decals from
the sheet.
❏ 2. Glue a magnet into the fuselage hatch and one into
the fuselage. The magnets should be attracted to each
other when the hatch is installed. The fuselage hatch is for
occasional radio access, so a handle is not included. When
access is needed, use a small, fl athead screwdriver to pry
the aft end of the hatch away from the fuse.
❏ 2. Be certain the model is clean and free from oily
fi ngerprints and dust. Prepare a dishpan or small bucket with
a mixture of liquid dish soap and warm water—about one
teaspoon of soap per gallon of water. Submerse the decal
in the soap and water and peel off the paper backing. Note:
Even though the decals have a “sticky-back” and are not the
water transfer type, submersing them in soap & water allows
accurate positioning and reduces air bubbles underneath.
❏ 3. Position decal on the model where desired. Holding the
decal down, use a paper towel to wipe most of the water away.
❏ 4. Use a piece of soft balsa or something similar to
squeegee remaining water from under the decal. Apply the
rest of the decals the same way.
❏ 3. Attach the propeller and spinner to the prop adapter.
21
Page 22
GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY
Check the Control Directions
❏ 1. Turn on the transmitter and receiver and center the
trims. If necessary, remove the servo arms from the servos
and reposition them so they are centered. Reinstall the
screws that hold on the servo arms.
❏ 2. With the transmitter and receiver still on, check all the
control surfaces to see if they are centered. If necessary, adjust
the clevises on the pushrods to center the control surfaces.
Set the Control Throws
4-CHANNEL RADIO SETUP
(STANDARD MODE 2)
ELEVATOR MOVES UP
RUDDER MOVES RIGHT
RIGHT AILERON MOVES UP
LEFT AILERON MOVES DOWN
FULL THROTTLE
❏ 3. Make certain that the control surfaces and the throttle
respond in the correct direction as shown in the diagram.
If any of the controls respond in the wrong direction, use
the servo reversing in the transmitter to reverse the servos
connected to those controls. Be certain the control surfaces
have remained centered. Adjust if necessary.
Use a ruler to accurately measure and set the control throw
of each control surface as indicated in the chart that follows.
If your radio does not have dual rates, we recommend setting
the throws at the low rate setting for your fi rst few fl ights.
NOTE: The throws are measured at the widest part of the
elevators, rudder and ailerons.
These are the recommended control surface throws:
High Rate Low Rate
ELEVATOR: 1" [25mm] up 5/16" [8mm] up
1" [25mm] down 5/16" [8mm] down
RUDDER:2-1/2" [64mm] left 1-5/8" [41mm] left2-1/2" [64mm] right 1-5/8" [41mm] right
AILERONS: 5/16" [8mm] up 1/8" [3mm] up5/16" [8mm] down 1/8" [3mm] down
3D RATES:
ELEVATOR: 1-5/8" [41mm] up
1-5/8" [41mm] down
RUDDER:3" [76mm] left3" [76mm] right
AILERONS: 1/2" [13mm] up
1/2" [13mm] down
IMPORTANT: The Ultimate Biplane EP ARF has been
extensively fl own and tested to arrive at the throws at
which it fl ies best. Flying your model at these throws
will provide you with the greatest chance for successful
fi rst fl ights. If, after you have become accustomed to
the way the Ultimate fl ies, you would like to change the
throws to suit your taste, that is fi ne. However, too much
control throw could make the model diffi cult to control, so
remember, “more is not always better.”
22
Page 23
Balance the Model (C.G.)
More than any other factor, the C.G. (balance point)
can have the greatest effect on how a model fl ies, and
may determine whether or not your fi rst fl ight will be
successful. If you value this model and wish to enjoy it for
many fl ights, DO NOT OVERLOOK THIS IMPORTANT PROCEDURE. A model that is not properly balanced will
be unstable and possibly unfl yable.
❏ 2. With all parts of the model installed (ready to fl y) and
battery installed, place the model on a Great Planes CG
Machine, or lift it at the balance point you marked.
❏ 3. If the tail drops, the model is “tail heavy” and the battery
pack must be shifted forward to balance. If the nose drops, the
model is “nose heavy” and the battery pack must be shifted aft
to balance. If possible, relocate the battery pack and receiver
to minimize or eliminate any additional ballast required.
At this stage the model should be in ready-to-fl y condition
with all of the systems in place including the motor, landing
gear, and the radio system. Temporarily install the battery
pack in place for balancing purposes.
❏ 1. Use a felt-tip pen or 1/8" [3mm]-wide tape to accurately
mark the C.G. on the underside of the top wing, at the center
where the two top wing panels are joined. The C.G. is located
3-5/16" [84mm] back from the center LE of the top wing.
This is where your model should balance for the fi rst
fl ights. Later, you may wish to experiment by shifting
the C.G. up to 1/8" [3mm] forward or 3/8" [9.5mm] back
to change the fl ying characteristics. Moving the C.G.
forward may improve the smoothness and stability, but
the model may then require more speed for takeoff and
make it more diffi cult to slow for landing. Moving the C.G.
aft makes the model more maneuverable, but could also
cause it to become too diffi cult to control. In any case,
start at the recommended balance point and do not at
any time balance the model outside the specifi ed range.
The Ultimate Biplane EP ARF is designed so that additional
weight should not need to be added for balancing purposes.
Changing to a lighter (1250mAh) or heavier (2100mAh)
battery pack will shift the balance point from the forward
position to the aft position, or vice-versa. Moving the battery
pack on the battery tray will make smaller changes in the
C.G. position.
❏ 4. IMPORTANT: If you found it necessary to add any
permanent weight for balancing purposes, recheck the C.G.
after the weight has been installed.
Balance the Model Laterally
❏ 1. With the wing level, have an assistant help you lift the
model by the engine propeller shaft and the bottom of the
fuse under the TE of the fi n. Do this several times.
❏ 2. If one wing always drops when you lift the model, it means
that side is heavy. Balance the airplane by adding weight
to the other wing tip. An airplane that has been laterally
balanced will track better in loops and other maneuvers.
23
Page 24
PREFLIGHT
Identify Your Model
No matter if you fl y at an AMA sanctioned R/C club site or
if you fl y somewhere on your own, you should always have
your name, address, telephone number and AMA number
on or inside your model. It is required at all AMA R/C club
fl ying sites and AMA sanctioned fl ying events. Fill out the
identifi cation tag on the back cover and place it on or inside
your model.
Charge the Batteries
Follow the battery charging instructions that came with your
radio control system to charge the batteries. You should always
charge your transmitter battery the night before you go fl ying, and
at other times as recommended by the radio manufacturer.
Range Check
Ground check the operational range of your radio before the
fi rst fl ight of the day. With the transmitter antenna collapsed
and the receiver and transmitter on, you should be able to
walk at least 100 feet away from the model and still have
control. Have an assistant stand by your model and, while
you work the controls, tell you what the control surfaces are
doing. Repeat this test with the motor running at various
speeds with an assistant holding the model, using hand
signals to show you what is happening. If the control surfaces
do not respond correctly, do not fl y! Find and correct the
problem fi rst. Look for loose servo connections or broken
wires, corroded wires on old servo connectors, poor solder
joints in your battery pack or a defective cell, or a damaged
receiver crystal from a previous crash.
MOTOR SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
CAUTION: Unless the instructions that came with your
radio system state differently, the initial charge on new
transmitter and receiver batteries should be done for 15
hours using the slow-charger that came with the radio system. This will “condition” the batteries so that the next
charge may be done using the fast-charger of your choice.
If the initial charge is done with a fast-charger the batteries
may not reach their full capacity and you may be fl ying
with batteries that are only partially charged.
Balance the Propeller
Failure to follow these safety precautions may result
in severe injury to yourself and others.
• Get help from an experienced pilot when learning to operate
electric motors.
• Use safety glasses when running electric motors.
• Do not operate the motor in an area of loose gravel or sand;
the propeller may throw such material in your face or eyes.
• Keep your face and body as well as all spectators away
from the plane of rotation of the propeller as you operate
the motor.
• Keep these items away from the prop: loose clothing, shirt
sleeves, ties, scarfs, long hair or loose objects such as
pencils or screwdrivers that may fall out of shirt or jacket
pockets into the prop.
• The motor gets hot! Do not touch it during or right after operation.
Carefully balance your propeller and spare propellers before
you fl y. An unbalanced prop can be the single most signifi cant
cause of vibration that can damage your model. Not only
will engine mounting screws and bolts loosen, possibly with
disastrous effect, but vibration may also damage your radio
receiver and battery. Vibration can also cause your fuel to
foam, which will, in turn, cause your engine to run hot or quit.
We use a Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer
(TOPQ5700) in the workshop and keep a Great Planes
Fingertip Prop Balancer (GPMQ5000) in our fl ight box.
AMA SAFETY CODE (EXCERPTS)
Read and abide by the following excerpts from the Academy
of Model Aeronautics Safety Code. For the complete Safety
Code refer to Model Aviation magazine, the AMA web site or
the Code that came with your AMA license.
General
1) I will not fl y my model aircraft in sanctioned events, air
™
shows, or model fl ying demonstrations until it has been
proven to be airworthy by having been previously,
successfully fl ight tested.
24
Page 25
2) I will not fl y my model aircraft higher than approximately
400 feet within 3 miles of an airport without notifying the
airport operator. I will give right-of-way and avoid fl ying
in the proximity of full-scale aircraft. Where necessary,
an observer shall be utilized to supervise fl ying to avoid
having models fl y in the proximity of full-scale aircraft.
3) Where established, I will abide by the safety rules for the
fl ying site I use, and I will not willfully and deliberately fl y my
models in a careless, reckless and/or dangerous manner.
5) I will not fl y my model unless it is identifi ed with my name
and address or AMA number, on or in the model. Note:
This does not apply to models while being fl own indoors.
7) I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any device
that explodes, burns, or propels a projectile of any kind).
Radio Control
1) I will have completed a successful radio equipment ground
check before the fi rst fl ight of a new or repaired model.
2) I will not fl y my model aircraft in the presence of spectators
until I become a qualifi ed fl ier, unless assisted by an
experienced helper.
3) At all fl ying sites a straight or curved line(s) must be
established in front of which all fl ying takes place with the
other side for spectators. Only personnel involved with
fl ying the aircraft are allowed at or in the front of the fl ight
line. Intentional fl ying behind the fl ight line is prohibited.
4) I will operate my model using only radio control frequencies
currently allowed by the Federal Communications Commission.
5) I will not knowingly operate my model within three miles
of any pre-existing fl ying site except in accordance with
the frequency sharing agreement listed [in the complete
AMA Safety Code].
9) Under no circumstances may a pilot or other person touch
a powered model in fl ight; nor should any part of the
model other than the landing gear, intentionally touch
the ground, except while landing.
CHECK LIST
During the last few moments of preparation your mind may
be elsewhere anticipating the excitement of the fi rst fl ight.
Because of this, you may be more likely to overlook certain
checks and procedures that should be performed before
the model is fl own. To help avoid this, a check list is provided
to make sure these important areas are not overlooked.
Many are covered in the instruction manual, so where
appropriate, refer to the manual for complete instructions.
Be sure to check the items off as they are completed.
❏ 1. Check the C.G. according to the measurements provided
in the manual.
❏ 2. Be certain the battery and receiver are securely
mounted in the fuse. Simply stuffi ng them into place
with foam rubber is not suffi cient.
❏ 3. Extend your receiver antenna.
❏ 4. Balance your model laterally as explained in the instructions.
❏ 5. Add a drop of oil to the axles so the wheels will turn freely.
❏ 6. Make sure all hinges are securely glued in place.
❏ 7. Confi rm that all controls operate in the correct direction
and the throws are set up according to the manual.
❏ 8. Make sure that all servo arms are secured to the servos
with the screws included with your radio.
❏ 9. Secure the connections between servo wires and
Y-connectors or servo extensions with tape, heat shrink
tubing, or special clips suitable for that purpose.
❏ 10. Balance your propeller (and spare propellers).
❏ 11. Tighten the propeller nut and spinner.
❏ 12. Place your name, address, AMA number and telephone
number on or inside your model.
❏ 13. If you wish to photograph your model, do so before
your fi rst fl ight.
❏ 14. Range check your radio when you get to the fl ying fi eld.
FLYING
The Ultimate Biplane EP ARF is a great-fl ying model that
fl ies smoothly and predictably. The Ultimate Biplane does
not, however, possess the self-recovery characteristics of a
primary R/C trainer and should be fl own only by experienced
R/C pilots.
CAUTION (THIS APPLIES TO ALL R/C AIRPLANES):
If, while fl ying, you notice an alarming or unusual sound
such as a low-pitched “buzz,” this may indicate control
surface fl utter. Flutter occurs when a control surface (such
as an aileron or elevator) or a fl ying surface (such as a
wing or stab) rapidly vibrates up and down (thus causing
the noise). In extreme cases, if not detected immediately,
fl utter can actually cause the control surface to detach
or the fl ying surface to fail, thus causing loss of control
followed by an impending crash. The best thing to do
when fl utter is detected is to slow the model immediately
by reducing power, then land as soon as safely possible.
Identify which surface fl uttered (so the problem may
be resolved) by checking all the servo grommets for
deterioration or signs of vibration. Make certain all
pushrod linkages are secure and free of play. If it fl uttered
once, under similar circumstances it will probably fl utter
again unless the problem is fi xed. Some things which
can cause fl utter are; Excessive hinge gap; Not mounting
control horns solidly; Poor fi t of clevis pin in horn; Sideplay of wire pushrods caused by large bends; Excessive
free play in servo gears; Insecure servo mounting; and
one of the most prevalent causes of fl utter; Flying an
over-powered model at excessive speeds.
25
Page 26
Takeoff
If you have access to a smooth, paved runway, we suggest
using it to takeoff, especially for the fi rst few fl ights. Position
the Ultimate Biplane onto the runway pointed into the wind.
Slowly advance the throttle stick to half throttle leaving
the elevator in the neutral position. As the tail rises off the
ground, slowly increase throttle and apply a bit of up elevator
to lift the model into the air. As you become accustomed
to the takeoff characteristics of the Ultimate, they can be
performed quickly, only requiring fi ve to ten feet of runway
until the model is airborne.
If you do not have access to a smooth runway, the Ultimate
can be hand launched. For the fi rst fl ight, it is a good idea to
have someone launch the airplane for you. This allows you
to keep your hands on the radio sticks and correct any trim
problems that are present.
Have the person launching the Ultimate hold the plane by the
fuselage just in front of the canopy. Throttle up to full power,
and have your helper give the plane a gentle underhanded
toss at about 30-degree angle upward into the wind. The
high thrust-to-weight ratio will allow the plane to accelerate to
fl ying speed almost instantly. Climb to a comfortable altitude
and throttle back to a lower power setting.
and control. Level the attitude when the model reaches the
runway threshold, modulating the throttle as necessary to
maintain your glide path and airspeed. If you are going to
overshoot, smoothly advance the throttle (always ready on
the right rudder to counteract torque) and climb out to make
another attempt. When you’re ready to make your landing fl are
and the model is a foot or so off the deck, smoothly increase
up elevator until it gently touches down. Once the model is
on the runway and has lost fl ying speed, hold up elevator to
place the tail on the ground.
One fi nal note about fl ying your model. Have a goal or fl ight
plan in mind for every fl ight. This can be learning a new
maneuver(s), improving a maneuver(s) you already know,
or learning how the model behaves in certain conditions
(such as on high or low rates). This is not necessarily to
improve your skills (though it is never a bad idea!), but more
importantly so you do not surprise yourself by impulsively
attempting a maneuver and suddenly fi nding that you’ve run
out of time, altitude or airspeed. Every maneuver should be
deliberate, not impulsive. For example, if you’re going to do a
loop, check your altitude, mind the wind direction (anticipating
rudder corrections that will be required to maintain heading),
remember to throttle back at the top, and make certain you
are on the desired rates (high/low rates). A fl ight plan greatly
reduces the chances of crashing your model just because of
poor planning and impulsive moves. Remember to think.
Flight
For reassurance and to keep an eye on other traffi c, it is a
good idea to have an assistant on the fl ight line with you. Tell
him to remind you to throttle back once the plane gets to a
comfortable altitude. While full throttle is usually desirable for
takeoff, most models fl y more smoothly at reduced speeds.
Take it easy with the Ultimate Biplane EP ARF for the fi rst
few fl ights, gradually getting acquainted with it as you gain
confi dence. Adjust the trims to maintain straight and level
fl ight. After fl ying around for a while, and while still at a safe
altitude with plenty of battery charge, practice slow fl ight
and execute practice landing approaches by reducing the
throttle to see how the model handles at slower speeds. Add
power to see how she climbs as well. Continue to fl y around,
executing various maneuvers and making mental notes (or
having your assistant write them down) of what trim or C.G.
changes may be required to fi ne tune the model so it fl ies
the way you like. Mind your batteries, but use this fi rst fl ight
to become familiar with your model before landing.
Have a ball!
But always stay in control and fl y in a safe manner.
GOOD LUCK AND GREAT FLYING!
Landing
To initiate a landing approach, lower the throttle while on the
downwind leg. Allow the nose of the model to pitch downward
to gradually bleed off altitude. Continue to lose altitude, but
maintain airspeed by keeping the nose down as you turn onto
the crosswind leg. Make your fi nal turn toward the runway
(into the wind) keeping the nose down to maintain airspeed
26
Page 27
3D FLYING
Because of the power-to-weight ratio on 3D planes, straight
and level fl ight should be at a reduced throttle and full power
should only be used when the airplane is "loaded" during
a maneuver. Learn to manage the throttle and experiment
while in the maneuver. The power needed will depend on the
maneuver being performed. C.G. also plays a large role in
the 3D capability of models as well. Experiment, but keep in
mind that being tail heavy is not always the best way to go.
Another thing to remember is that maximum control throw is
not necessary for all 3D maneuvers. Occasionally, too much
throw can place the model too far into a stall, causing it to
become uncontrollable. Practice your maneuvers at a higher
altitude while you become accustomed to your particular
plane’s stall characteristics.
INVERTED FLAT SPINS
This is the same as the up-right fl at spin except most planes
like to spin in the opposite direction, for example: right rudder
and down elevator.
THE WALL
Fly straight across the fi eld at a moderate speed and simply
pull full up until vertical. Adjust the power as necessary to
maintain a hover.
KNIFE EDGE TUMBLE
WATERFALLS
With the model pointing straight up (almost in a hover), push
full down elevator and full throttle. As the model rotates and
begins to point downwards, reduce the throttle (to keep the
model from being pulled downwards). As the model fl attens
out, add power back in to pull the model around. A lot of
models will require a little bit of rudder correction (usually
right rudder) during this maneuver. Some planes will require
aileron correction to keep the wings level.
This is an impressive looking maneuver that really isn’t as
diffi cult as it looks. (Before learning this maneuver you must
be able to confi dently Snap and Tumble your plane and stop
the aircraft exactly, without over rotating.) Fly the model
Knife Edge from the right at a moderate airspeed, using
just enough rudder to maintain Knife Edge, not climbing or
diving. Perform one full right negative Tumble by maintaining
your rudder setting while applying full throttle, full down
elevator, and full right aileron, releasing in time to end again
fl ying Knife Edge to the right. Note that you may need to use
some positive elevator and/or left aileron to stop the Tumble
at exactly Knife Edge. This maneuver is easier to the right
because torque helps stop the Tumble and it can be done at
varied airspeeds with proper throttle and rudder modulation.
VERTICAL HOVER
Fly a straight pass across the fi eld at 75ft high and 100ft out
and pull the model vertical. Roll the model until the top of it is
facing you and slowly begin to reduce power. As the model
begins to slow down to 10mph or so, slowly add a little bit of
power back in. You will have to adjust the throttle as needed,
but make your adjustments smooth. Some right aileron may
be needed to keep the model from torque rolling. Use the
rudder and elevator to keep the nose pointing straight up. Be
patient as this maneuver will take a while to learn.
UPRIGHT FLAT SPINS
Pull the nose up slightly and slowly decrease power. As the
model slows down to a few mph, slowly add in full left rudder
and power. Next, start adding in up elevator as needed to
keep the model fl at in the spin. Most airplanes will require
some aileron as well to keep the wings level. This is one of the
maneuvers to experiment on; try different C.G. positions and
different amounts of throw and power to see how fl at the spin
will go. It is possible to maintain altitude in the fl at spin and in
some cases it is also possible to climb during the spin.
27
Page 28
TORQUE ROLL
This is the same as the vertical hover but without the use of
right aileron to keep the model from rolling. If needed, you
can use a little left aileron to speed the roll up. As the model
rotates around, the controls will appear to be reversed to you
but only the orientation of the model has changed.
HARRIER
ROLLING HARRIER
Once you get comfortable with the up-right harrier, it’s time
to work rolls into the mix. From an up-right harrier, add in left
aileron and change from up elevator to down elevator when
inverted. If you are comfortable with four point rolls and slow
rolls, inputting rudder on the knife edges can improve the
maneuver considerably. To turn the model, simply input the
elevator or rudder a little sooner or later in the rotation. It’s all
a matter of timing.
The harrier is nothing more than a high angle of attack fl ying
stall. Check the stall characteristics of your plane before
proceeding with this maneuver. Bring your plane across the
fi eld at 75 ft high and 100 ft out away from yourself. Slowly
pull back on the elevator while reducing throttle. The nose of
the plane should come up. Depending on the plane/setup,
you may have to make constant aileron (wing walking) and
rudder corrections for this maneuver. As the nose of the plane
comes up, start adding in a little bit of power to help maintain
airspeed. The rudder is now used to turn the model. This
maneuver will take some practice as there are a lot of small
corrections made to keep most planes in the maneuver.
This is one maneuver where less control is needed. Too
much elevator and the model goes into an uncontrollable
stall. The C.G. of the plane will have a large effect on the
stability of the model during this maneuver. Some planes
perform better with more elevator defl ection and a farther
forward C.G. while other planes prefer a further aft C.G. and
less elevator defl ection. Elevator to fl ap mixing can be used
on airplanes with marginal wing area, and some planes won’t
stall so elevator to spolieron mixing will be needed.
PINWHEEL
Climb vertically and bring the model to a vertical hover, but do
not stop long enough to let the torque pull the model around
(climbing or sliding slightly will not be noticeable to spectators
but will keep air fl owing over the ailerons and provide you roll
authority to stop the torque). When the model is hanging,
rock the plane left with rudder, then apply full throttle and
full right rudder and hold both, completing 3/4 of a VERY
tight Knife Edge Loop and fl ying out Knife Edge. When done
correctly, the plane pivots around the wingtip in a very small
area. This maneuver can be done either direction.
Loading...
+ hidden pages
You need points to download manuals.
1 point = 1 manual.
You can buy points or you can get point for every manual you upload.