WARRANTY
Great Planes
®
Model Manufacturing Co. guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of
purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Great Planes’ liability
exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Great Planes reserves the right to change or modify this warranty
without notice.
In that Great Planes has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor
accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the
user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to return this
kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.
While this kit has been flight tested to exceed normal use, if the plane will be used for extremely high stress flying, the modeler is
responsible for taking steps to reinforce the high stress points.
READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL BEFORE
STARTING CONSTRUCTION. IT CONTAINS
IMPORTANT WARNINGS AND INSTRUCTIONS
CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF
THIS MODEL.
GPMZ0229 for GPMA16** V1.0© Copyright 2000
P.O. Box 788 Urbana, IL 61803 (217) 398-8970
INSTRUCTION MANUAL
Wing Span - 78.5 in
Wing Area - 676 sq in
Weight - 2 lbs
Wing Loading - 7 oz/sq ft
Fuse Length - 39 in
Important Safety Precaution......................................................2
Introduction.................................................................................2
Precautions .................................................................................2
Preparations................................................................................2
Building Supplies and Tools ..................................................2
General Inspection ................................................................3
Replacement Parts .....................................................................3
Assembly.....................................................................................3
Optional Spoilers ........................................................................4
Radio Settings.............................................................................5
Balance The Model .....................................................................5
Checking For Warps...................................................................5
Preflight .......................................................................................5
Charge the Batteries .............................................................5
Find a Safe Place to Fly ........................................................5
Range Check Your Radio ......................................................6
AMA Safety Code (excerpt)........................................................6
General..................................................................................6
Radio Control.........................................................................6
Flying ...........................................................................................6
Trim Flights............................................................................6
Your First Hi-Start Launch .....................................................6
First Flights ............................................................................7
Thermal Flying.......................................................................7
Facts About Thermals............................................................7
Thermal Soaring ....................................................................7
Pointers For Contest Flying ......................................................8
Ballasting.....................................................................................8
Your Spirit Select is not a toy, but rather a sophisticated, working
model that functions very much like a full-size sailplane. Because
of its realistic performance, the Spirit Select, if not assembled and
operated correctly, could possibly cause injury to yourself or
spectators and damage property.
We recommend you get experienced, knowledgeable help from an
instructor during your first flights. You’ll learn faster and avoid
risking your model before you’re ready to solo. Your local hobby
shop has information about flying clubs in your area whose
membership includes qualified instructors.
You can also contact the national Academy of Model Aeronautics
(AMA), which has more than 2,500 chartered clubs across the
country. Through any one of them, instructor training programs and
insured newcomer training are available. Contact the AMA at the
address or toll-free phone number below:
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302-9252
Tele. (800) 435-9262
Fax (765) 741-0057
Or via the Internet at:
http://www.modelaircraft.org
The Spirit Select is a very stable and predictable aircraft, allowing
pilots of differing skill levels to enjoy it.
The Spirit Select is easy to assemble, flies great, and would be a
great selection as your first R/C airplane.
1. You must assemble the model according to the instructions. Do
not alter or modify the model, as doing so may result in an unsafe
or unflyable model. In a few cases the instructions may differ
slightly from the photos. In those instances the written instructions
should be considered correct.
2. You must make sure the R/C radio system and other
components in the model operate properly on the ground and in
the air.
3. You must test the operation of the model before every flight to
insure that all equipment is operating and you must make certain
that the model has remained structurally sound. Be sure to check
clevises or other connectors often and replace them if they show
signs of wear or fatigue.
Remember: Take your time and follow directions to end up
with a well-built model that is straight and true.
Please inspect
all parts carefully before starting to build!
YOU CAN CONTACT US...
If any parts are missing, broken or defective, or if you have
any questions about building or flying this airplane, please
call us at (217) 398-8970. You can also check our web site at
www.greatplanes.com for the latest Spirit Select updates, or
e-mail your questions to:
productsupport@greatplanes.com.
If you are calling for replacement parts, please
reference the
part numbers and have them ready when calling.
These are the only building tools that are required.
❏ Small Phillips Screwdriver
❏ Pliers
Building Supplies & Tools
PREPARATIONS
Note: We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a top
quality kit and great instructions, but ultimately the quality of
your finished model depends on how you build it; therefore,
we cannot in any way guarantee the performance of your
completed model, and no representations are expressed or
implied as to the performance or safety of your completed
model.
PRECAUTIONS
INTRODUCTION
PROTECT YOUR MODEL,YOURSELF
& OTHERS...FOLLOW THIS
IMPORTANT SAFETY PRECAUTION
TABLE OF CONTENTS
2
Remove the fuselage, wing panels, and stabilizer assembly from
their bags. Inspect all items closely to check for any damage. If any
damage is found, contact the place where your Spirit Select was
purchased, or Hobby Services, to obtain a replacement for your
damaged items.
Your Spirit Select is covered using Top Flite
®
MonoKote® covering.
Eliminate any wrinkles you find in the covering by shrinking them
away with a heat gun. Then, apply pressure to the area with a
covering
iron and a hot sock. This will securely bond the covering to the
wood so the wrinkles will be less likely to reappear in the future.
If needed, replacement parts for your Spirit Select are
available
through your hobby supplier.
Wing Kit .......................................................................GPMA2176
Fuselage Kit.................................................................GPMA2177
Tail Set .........................................................................GPMA2178
Canopy Set ..................................................................GPMA2179
❏
1. Check the fit of the wing joiner in the wing panels.
Remove any
excess material from the joiner to allow the panels to fit together.
The joiner does not have to be glued into the wing. This will allow
the wing panels to be separated for easier transportation.
❏ 2. Find and open the holes in the stabilizer covering for the
attachment screws. Attach the stabilizer to the fuselage using two
2mm x 15mm screws, two 2mm nuts and four 2mm washers.
Use thread lock on the nuts to prevent loosening. Note: The fin and
rudder have been removed for clarity in the photo above.
❏ 3. Attach the clevis in the second hole from the outside of the
control horn. Trim the opening at the rear of the fuselage as
necessary to allow the pushrod to move freely.
❏
4.
For contest flying you may want to move the tow hook to the
rear hole as it can help achieve a higher launch but be careful as
the sailplane will be more apt to “Pop-Off” the line.
Note: A piece of self-adhesive foam rubber weather
stripping can be
applied to the front of the fuselage bottom to help protect it from
getting nicked up during landings.
ASSEMBLY
REPLACEMENT PARTS
General Inspection
3
Note: Since the spoiler installation is optional, none of the
hardware has been included.
❏ ❏
1. Use a hobby knife to cut a hole in the bottom of the wing
sheeting for the spoiler tubing to exit the wing as
shown.
❏ ❏
2. Pull the end of the spoiler tubing out of the wing just
far
enough to glue it in place using thick CA.
❏ ❏
3. Cut the covering all around the edge of the spoiler
and
remove it from the wing panel.
❏ ❏ 4. Tape the spoiler in position in the wing using a strip of
cellophane or vinyl tape or a strip of covering. The tape should be
flexible enough to allow the spoiler to close on its own. The tape
should also be replaced occasionally as it will eventually rip.
❏ ❏ 5. Thread a 42" [1070mm] length of braided fishing line (not
included) through the spoiler tubing in the wing.
❏ ❏ 6. Thread one end of the line through the small hole in the
spoiler horn and use a piece of a round toothpick to hold the line in
the horn. Allow about 1/2" [13mm] to hang out the other side of the
horn for fine adjustments. It may be necessary to drill out the
spoiler control horn using a 3/32" [2.5mm] drill bit. Trim the shear
web to allow the toothpick to pass through without interference.
❏ ❏ 7. Glue a small lead weight on the bottom side of the spoiler
to help it close. 1/4 – 1/2 oz. is usually enough since the airflow will
keep the spoilers closed when the plane is flying. Repeat steps 1
through 7 for the opposite spoiler.
❏ 8. Mount the wing onto the fuselage and pull the ends of
the
spoiler strings up to the spoiler servo. Position the
spoiler servo
horn at the rearward end of its swing and wrap one spoiler string
around the screw in the horn. With the spoilers held closed, apply
a drop of CA to glue the string to itself, forming a small loop.
Remove that string and do the same steps to the other string. The
two strings should be the same length (be careful not to glue the
two strings together) and the spoilers should open and close
together. Adjustments can be made at the toothpick end if needed.
OPITIONAL SPOILERS
4
Use the sketch to make sure the control surfaces are moving the
correct directions.
The control throws are as follows:
Elevator 1/2" [13mm] up
1/2" [13mm] down
Rudder 1-1/2" [38mm] left
1-1/2" [38mm] right
Spoilers 90º to the upper surface of the wing
Note: This section is VERY important and must not be
omitted! A model that is not properly balanced will be unstable and
possibly unflyable.
Accurately mark the balance point on the bottom of the wing on
both sides of the fuselage. The balance point is located 3-1/4"
[83mm] back from the leading edge. This is the balance point at
which your model should balance for your first flights. Later, you
may wish to experiment by shifting the balance up to 5/16" [8mm]
forward or back to change the flying characteristics. Moving the
C.G.
forward of the spar will add some stability but it will decrease the
overall performance of the sailplane. Moving the balance behind
the spar makes the model more agile with a lighter and snappier
“feel” and improves the sailplane’s response to air currents. In any
case, please start at the location we recommend and do not at any
time balance your model outside the recommended range.
With the wing attached to the fuselage, and all parts of the model
installed (ready to fly), lift the model by picking it up with a finger on
each bottom inner spar. If the tail drops when you lift, the model is
“tail heavy” and you must add weight to the nose to balance. If the
nose drops, it is “nose heavy” and you must add weight to the tail
to balance. The model should hang with a slight nose down
attitude. Add BB’s or lead to the weight compartment at the front of
the fuselage to correct a tail heavy model. In the unusual
circumstance that you would have a nose heavy model, you can
switch the receiver and battery or even move the receiver behind
the servos. Getting the weight farther back helps correct the “nose
heaviness.”
This is a very important step and should be done occasionally
throughout the flying season. A sailplane’s wing is most efficient
when it is not twisted or warped at all. “Washout” (wing trailing
edges twisted up at the tip) helps make a poor wing design fly
better by adding some stability (preventing stalls) at slow speeds
but it cuts down on the wing efficiency at normal speeds. The Spirit
Select’s wing is designed to fly well at slow speeds without any
washout, and therefore we recommend you check to make sure
the wings are “flat” using the following procedure:
Set the wing so an inner panel is resting on a flat surface. Any warp
(twist) will show up by causing a corner of the panel to rise off the
work surface.
To remove the warp, gently twist the wing in the opposite direction
while a helper glides an iron or heat gun over the covering on both
the top and the bottom of the panel to re-shrink the covering. Hold
the twist until the covering cools and then recheck for warps. It may
take several tries to get a warp out but it is worth it as you will end
up with a sailplane that flies straight and true and responds to air
currents like a high performance sailplane should.
Follow the same procedure to check all four wing panels and then
go back and double check them. Sometimes you put a warp in one
panel while trying to fix another. You should also look at the tail
surfaces as they too can warp.
Follow the battery charging procedures in your radio instruction
manual. You should charge your transmitter and receiver batteries
the night before you go flying, and at other times as recommended
by the radio manufacturer.
The best place to fly your R/C model is an AMA (Academy of Model
Aeronautics) chartered club field. Ask your hobby shop dealer if
there is such a club in your area and join. Club fields are set up for
R/C flying which makes your outing safer and more enjoyable. The
AMA can also tell you the name of a club in your area. We
recommend that you join AMA and a local club so you can have a
safe place to fly and also have insurance to cover you in case of a
flying accident. (The AMA address is listed on page 2 of this
instruction book).
If a club and its flying site are not available, you need to find a
large, grassy area at least 6 miles away from any other R/C radio
Find a Safe Place to Fly
Charge the Batteries
PREFLIGHT
CHECKING FOR WARPS
BALANCE THE MODEL
RADIO SETTINGS
5
operation and away from houses, buildings and streets. A
schoolyard may look inviting but it is usually too close to people,
power lines and possible radio interference.
If you are not thoroughly familiar with the operation of R/C models,
ask an experienced modeler to check to see that you have the
radio installed correctly and that all the control surfaces do what
they are supposed to.
Wherever you do fly, you need to check the operation of the radio
before every time you fly. This means with the transmitter antenna
collapsed and the receiver and transmitter on, you should be able
to walk at least 100 feet away from the model and still have control.
Have someone help you. Have them stand by your model and,
while you work the controls, tell you what the various control
surfaces are doing.
Read and abide by the following Academy of Model Aeronautics
Official Safety Code excerpt:
General
1. I will not fly my model aircraft in competition or in the
presence
of spectators until it has been proven to be
airworthy by having been
previously successfully flight tested.
2. I will not fly my model aircraft higher than approximately 400 feet
within 3 miles of an airport without notifying the airport operator. I
will give right of way to, and avoid flying in the proximity of full-scale
aircraft. Where necessary an observer shall be utilized to
supervise flying to avoid having models fly in the proximity of fullscale aircraft.
3. Where established, I will abide by the safety rules for the flying
site I use, and I will not willfully and deliberately fly my models in a
careless, reckless and/or dangerous manner.
Radio Control
1. I will have completed a successful radio equipment
ground check
before the first flight of a new or repaired model.
2. I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence of
spectators until
I become a qualified flyer, unless assisted by an experienced
helper.
3. I will perform my initial turn after takeoff away from the pit,
spectator and parking areas, and I will not thereafter perform
maneuvers, flights of any sort or landing approaches over a pit,
spectator or parking area.
First of all, if you are flying with other flyers check to make
sure they are not flying or testing on the same frequency as
your model.
Try to find an experienced pilot to help you with your first
flights. Although the Spirit Select is very easy to fly, an
experienced pilot can save you a lot of time and possible
aggravation by helping you get your model in the air smoothly.
It is a good idea to do a couple of trim flights before each flying
session to make sure the plane is still in trim and the radio is
working properly. The model will survive a hard landing from 5 feet
much better than it will one from several hundred feet. The first few
trim flights should be done over
a grass field. The longer the grass
the better (more
cushion).
Turn on the transmitter first and then the receiver. Hold the Spirit
Select under the wing with the nose pointed slightly down and
directly into the wind as shown in the photo. It is very important that
you launch the model with the wings level and the nose pointing at
a spot on the ground about 50 feet in front of you. Have a friend
stand off to the side of you and tell you whether the nose is pointing
up or down. Show your friend the picture above so he will know
what to look for. If the sailplane is launched with the nose up or
launched too hard it will climb a few feet, stall and fall nose first
straight down. With the nose pointed down slightly the sailplane will
accelerate down until it picks up enough flying speed then level off
and glide forward. The plane should be launched with a gentle
push forward. With a little practice you will be able to launch it at
just the right speed so it soars straight ahead in a long and
impressive glide path. Adjust the trims on your transmitter to get
the plane to fly straight ahead in a smooth glide path.
Once you get the hang of launching it you can try turning the plane
during the trim flights by gently applying a “touch” of right or left
rudder. You can also try “flaring” the landings by slowly applying a
touch of up elevator (pull the stick back) as the plane nears the
ground. The Spirit Select will continue to fly just a few inches off the
ground for a surprisingly long distance. It is important you don’t
“over-control” the model. Make any control inputs slowly and
smoothly rather than moving the transmitter sticks abruptly.
A hi-start is the most popular way to launch your Spirit Select. It
consists of 25' – 100' of rubber tubing and 200' – 400' of string with
a parachute or streamer at the end. One end of the rubber is
staked down directly upwind of the launch point. One end of the
string is attached to the other end of the rubber and the end of the
string with the parachute has a loop or ring and is attached to the
tow hook on the sailplane.
Your First Hi-Start Launch
Trim Flights
FLYING
AMA SAFETY CODE (excerpt)
Range Check Your Radio
6
Follow the directions that came with the hi-start and lay it out
directly into the wind. Place the stake at the far upwind edge of the
flying field so the parachute will blow back onto the flying field.
Turn on your transmitter and then your receiver and hook the
parachute onto your plane’s tow hook. Pull the plane back
approximately twice as far as the rubber is long (i.e., 100' of rubber
= pull back 200') or whatever the hi-start instructions state. A “fish
scale” is handy for determining the correct amount of pull. For your
first flights pull the plane back until there is approximately 8 lbs. of
tension. More tension can be used after you get acquainted with
the launching procedure.
Hold the plane above your head with the wings level and the nose
pointed slightly up and directly into the wind. Give the plane a
healthy push forward to get it flying and it will climb up like a kite.
You should not have to touch the elevator during the launch but
use the rudder stick to keep it going straight up. As the rubber
relaxes the plane will fly off the hi-start and the parachute will bring
the end of the string back towards you.
Find a BIG, OPEN field for your first flights. The bigger the better
as you won’t have to worry about where you need to land. Ground
based objects (trees, poles, buildings, etc.) seem to attract model
airplanes like a magnet. Again, we would like to recommend
that you find an experienced pilot to help you with these first
flights.
Note: You need to remember that your radio control
responds
as if you were sitting in the cockpit. When you push the
transmitter stick to the right, the rudder moves to the plane’s
right! This means that when the plane is flying towards you it
may seem like the rudder controls are reversed (when you
give “right” rudder the plane turns to your left–which is the
plane’s “right”). It is sometimes easier to learn to fly the plane if
you always face your body in the direction the plane is flying and
look over your shoulder to watch the model.
Don’t worry about accomplishing very much on your first flights.
Use these flights to get the “feel” of the controls and the Spirit
Select’s flying characteristics. Try to keep the plane upwind and
just perform some gentle “S-turns” (always turning into the wind)
until it is time to set up for landing. Have a helper adjust the trims
on your transmitter (a little at a time) until the plane will fly straight
and level with the transmitter sticks in their neutral positions. It can
be very hard for a beginner to fly a plane straight towards him as
he would have to do if the plane were downwind and every mistake
takes the plane a little farther downwind. When it is time to land,
just continue performing the gentle “S-turns” upwind and let the
plane glide onto the ground. Don’t worry about where the plane
lands–just miss any trees, etc.
Practice flying directly into the wind (upwind of yourself) without
letting the plane get off course, and then turn and come downwind
until the plane is even with you and try it again. When you are
comfortable with flying directly into the wind, start letting the plane
go behind you (downwind) a little before you start back upwind.
Continue this until you can fly directly towards you from downwind
without getting disoriented. At this point you can start to establish
a “landing pattern” and bring the sailplane in for a landing from
downwind. This enables the plane to be flown as slowly (ground
speed) as possible for accurate landings.
Thermal soaring is one of the most intriguing of all aspects of flying
and the Spirit Select was designed to excel at thermal soaring even
in the hands of a novice. It can be hard for the average person to
understand how a plane can fly for hours and gain altitude without
a motor!
Thermals are a natural phenomenon that happen outside, by the
millions, every single day of the year. Thermals are responsible for
many things including forming several types of clouds, creating
breezes, and distributing plant seeds and pollen. If you have ever
seen a dust devil (which is nothing more than a thermal that has
picked up some dust), you have seen a thermal in action. Their
swirling action is very similar to that of a tornado but of course
much gentler. Most thermals have updrafts rising in the 200 – 700
feet per minute range but they have been known to produce
updrafts
of over 5,000 feet per minute (that’s over 50 miles/hour
straight up!) These strong thermals can rip a plane apart or carry
the plane out of sight before the pilot can get out of the updraft.
Thermals are formed by the uneven heating of the earth and
buildings, etc. by the sun. The darker colored surfaces absorb heat
faster than the lighter colors which reflect a great deal of the sun’s
energy back into space. These darker areas (plowed fields, asphalt
parking lots, tar roofs, etc.) get warmer than the lighter areas
(lakes, grassy fields, forests, etc.). This causes the air above the
darker areas to be warmer than the air over the lighter areas and
the more buoyant warm air rises as the cooler, denser air forces its
way underneath the warmer air. As this warm air is forced upward
it contacts the cooler air of the higher altitudes and this larger
temperature difference makes the thermal rise quicker. The
thermal is gradually cooled by the surrounding cooler air and its
strength diminishes. Eventually the thermal stops rising and any
moisture contained in the once warm air condenses and forms a
puffy cumulus cloud. These clouds, which mark the tops of
thermals, are usually between 2000 and 5000 feet high.
It takes a lot of concentration to thermal soar effectively. A sailplane
can fly along the edge of a thermal and unless the pilot is carefully
watching the model he may not realize the opportunity to gain
some altitude. Because most thermals are relatively small (a
couple hundred feet in diameter or less at 400' altitude) compared
to the rest of the sky, the sailplanes will rarely fly directly into the
thermal and start rising. Generally, the sailplane will fly into the
edge or near a thermal and the effects the thermal has on the
plane may
be almost unnoticeable. As the sailplane approaches a
thermal, the wing tip that reaches the rising air first will be lifted
before the opposite wing tip. This causes the plane to “bank” and
turn away from where we would like the plane to go.
When you are thermal soaring, try to fly as smoothly and straight
as possible. Trim the plane to fly in a straight line and only touch
the controls when you have to. Watch the sailplane carefully and it
will tell you what it is encountering.
When the sailplane flies directly into a thermal it will either start
rising or stop sinking. Either case is reason enough to start circling
(especially in a contest where every second counts). Fly straight
Thermal Soaring
Facts About Thermals
Thermal Flying
First Flights
7
ahead until you feel like you are in the strongest lift, fly a couple
of seconds farther (so your circle will be centered in the strongest
lift) and then start circling in a fairly tight but smooth turn. When the
sailplane is low the turns have to be tighter to stay in the strongest
lift. As the plane gains altitude, the turns can be larger and flatter.
The flatter the turn, the more efficient the plane is flying, but don’t
be afraid to really “crank” it into a steep bank when you are low. If
you see the plane falling off on one side of the turn, move your
circle over into the stronger lift. Thermals move along with the wind
so as you circle you will be swept along with it. Be careful when
thermaling, that you don’t get so far downwind you can’t make it
back to the field to land.
If the sailplane is flying along straight and all of a sudden turns, let
the plane continue to bank (you may have to give
it some rudder to
keep it banking) until it has turned 270-
degrees (3/4 of a full circle).
Straighten out the bank and fly into whatever turned the plane. If
you encounter lift, and you won’t every time, start circling just as
you did when flying directly into a thermal.
Thermals are generated all day long, but the strongest thermals
are produced when the sun is directly overhead. 10:00 am – 2:00
pm
seems to be the best time to get those “killer” thermals. Some of
these thermals can be very large and you may find it hard to get
out of them. If you find yourself getting too high, don’t dive the
plane to get out of the lift. Sailplanes are very efficient aircraft and
they will build up a lot of speed and could “blow up” in the rough air
of a thermal. The easiest way to lose altitude is to apply full rudder
and full up elevator. This will put the plane into a tight spin that will
not over stress the airframe but it will enable it to lose altitude very
quickly. This is especially helpful if the sailplane gets sucked into a
cloud or it gets too high to see. The twirling action will give the sun
a better chance of flashing off of the wing and catching your
attention. When you are high enough and want to leave the
thermal, add a little down trim to pick up some speed and fly 90
degrees to the direction of the wind. If you are not real high and
want to find another thermal, you may want to look upwind of the
last thermal. The same source that generated this thermal is
probably producing another. Just watch out for “sink” which is often
found behind and between thermals.
As you might expect, with all this air rising, there is also air sinking.
This air is the sailplane pilot’s nightmare that can really make
soaring challenging. “Sink” is usually not as strong as the thermals
in the same area, but it can be very strong. Down drafts of many
hundreds of feet per minute are common on a good soaring day.
These down drafts can make a sailplane look like it is falling out of
the air. Because of this, it is important that you do not let the
sailplane get too far downwind.
When encountering sink, immediately turn and fly 90 degrees to
the direction of the wind (towards you if possible). Apply a little
“down elevator” and pick up some speed to get out of the sink as
fast as possible. Every second you stay in the sink is precious
altitude lost.
Pay Attention! – Pay close attention to the sailplanes flying before
you, watch them and try to establish where and when the thermals
are being formed. Thermals are often formed in cycles and can be
fairly regular, so if you keep track of the time intervals you will have
a pretty good idea of when and where a thermal may be generated.
Watch The Birds! – Thermals suck up small insects that many
birds love to eat. A bunch of swallows flying around in one area
may indicate a thermal. Soaring birds (hawks, vultures, eagles
etc.) are the best thermal indicators. They not only show you where
the thermal is but they also show you where the center is. These
“Masters of the Sky” will often fly right along with sailplanes.
Practice Those Landings! – Most thermal contests are won or
lost during the landing. Establish a particular landing pattern and
try to stick to it for all landings. Learn to shift your pattern to
account for the wind and particular flying field characteristics.
Spoilers can be very useful during contest landings. They allow you
to bring the sailplane in for a landing higher or faster than normal
to guard against any last minute sink or gusts and dump the extra
altitude and speed at the last second. They can also be used to
help control your skid. Opening the spoilers will stop the plane from
sliding a little quicker. You can also “steer” the plane while it is
sliding along the ground. Don’t expect to be able to “horse it
around” but you can gain valuable inches by using the rudder to
guide it toward the spot as it slides to a stop. Be very careful not to
“ground loop” the plane since you will lose your landing points if the
plane flips over.
Concentrate – Keep your eye on your sailplane during your
contest flights. Have a helper or your counter watch the other
sailplanes in the air. Sometimes your sailplane will wiggle so
quickly or gently that you may miss it if you are not paying close
attention. If you find a productive thermal, don’t leave it because
your helper tells you that someone else has found a different one.
Know Your Sailplane! – Learn what your sailplane will and won’t
do and fly within this envelope. This will allow you to ride thermals
downwind while knowing when you have to head back to make
your landing safely.
Learn From The Wind! – Keep track of which way the wind is
blowing. If the wind suddenly shifts, there is some thermal action
fairly close to you. The air is probably being either sucked up into
a thermal or falling out of some sink. In either case it is often a good
idea to fly in the direction the wind is blowing if your sailplane is in
the general area. This will take you towards a thermal if there is
one or away from the sink, both of which are desirable.
In strong wind conditions, you may want to add ballast (weight) to
the sailplane to increase its wing loading which increases its
normal flying speed. Increasing the weight of your sailplane does
not change its “glide ratio” but it does make it fly faster which
makes it sink a proportional amount faster. Because of this faster
sink rate, you need to be very cautious when ballasting for a
thermal contest. In duration type contests only use ballast on very
windy days that also have a lot of thermal activity.
Add the weight as near as possible to the C.G. of the plane. Adding
6 – 8 oz. will make a noticeable difference in the sailplane’s flying
speed and more can be added later, if needed. Make sure to
recheck the C.G. of the plane after adding ballast–it should remain
where it was.
Have a ball! Remember to always stay in control and fly in a
safe manner.
GOOD LUCK AND GREAT FLYING!
BALLASTING
POINTERS FOR CONTEST FLYING
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