Great Planes GPMA1217 User Manual

WARRANTY

Great Planes

®

Model Manufacturing Co. guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of
purchase.This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Great Planes' liability
exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Great Planes reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.

In that Great Planes has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor
accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assemb led product.By the act of using the user-assembled
product, the user accepts all resulting liability.

If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to return this
kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.

READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL BEFORE
STARTING CONSTRUCTION. IT CONTAINS
IMPORTANT WARNINGS AND INSTRUCTIONS
CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF
THIS MODEL.

GPMZ0222 for GPMA1217 V1.0© Copyright 2003

Champaign, Illinois

[phone], Ext 5

[e-mail]

INSTRUCTION MANUAL

Scale: 28.7%
Length: 62.5 in [1585mm]
Wingspan:Top: 68.5 in [1740mm],

Bottom: 64.5 in [1640mm]
Combined Wing Area: 1436 sq in [92.6 dm2]
Weight: 16.5 - 18 lbs [6800 - 8160 g]
Wing Loading: 26 - 29 oz/sq ft [79 - 88 g/dm2]

Radio: 4-channel, 8-9 ser vos
Engine: 1.6 - 2.2 cu in [26 - 35cc] two-stroke,

1.8 - 3.0 cu in [30 - 49cc] four-stroke,

2.0 - 3.2 cu in [32 - 52cc] gas

INTRODUCTION ...............................................................2

IMAA..................................................................................2

Scale Competition..............................................................3

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS..................................................3

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE........................................4

Radio Equipment ...............................................................4

Engine Recommendations.................................................4

Fuel Tank Setup.................................................................5

Optional Flying Wires.........................................................5

ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED.....................................5

Hardware and Accessories ................................................5

Adhesives and Building Supplies.......................................5

Optional Supplies and Tools..............................................6

Covering Tools ...................................................................6

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES......................................6

KIT INSPECTION..............................................................6

ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS ..............................7

KIT CONTENTS ................................................................7

ASSEMBLE THE WINGS..................................................9

Prepare the Wings.............................................................9

Hinge the Ailerons ...........................................................10

Join the Wings.................................................................11

Hook Up the Ailerons.......................................................13

ASSEMBLE THE FUSELAGE.........................................14

Prepare the Tail Surfaces for Hinging..............................14

Join the Stab and Fin to the Fuselage ............................14

Mount the Engine.............................................................17

Glow Engine..............................................................17

U.S.Engines 41cc.....................................................18

Fuji 50........................................................................19

Mount the Cowl ................................................................20

MOUNT THE LANDING GEAR.......................................23

Fuelproof the Landing Gear Cutout.................................23

Prepare the Wheel Pants.................................................23

Prepare the Landing Gear...............................................25

Mount the Landing Gear Fairings....................................26

Mount the Wheel Pants....................................................27

FINAL ASSEMBLY..........................................................28

Mount the Servos.............................................................28

Mount the Tail Gear .........................................................29

Assemble the Fuel Tank...................................................29

Hook Up the Throttle........................................................31

Mount the Kill Switch (Gas Only).....................................32

Finish the Cockpit............................................................33

Mount the Canopy ...........................................................34

Glue on the Belly Pan ......................................................35

Mount the Wings ..............................................................35

Mount the Flying Wires (Optional)...................................39

Install the Aileron Extension Cord ...................................41

Complete the Radio Installation.......................................41

Apply the Decals ..............................................................42

GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY ................................42

Balance the Model (C.G.)................................................42

Check the Control Directions...........................................43

Set the Control Throws....................................................43

Balance the Model Laterally ............................................43

PREFLIGHT.....................................................................43

Identify Your Model...........................................................43

Charge the Batteries ........................................................44

Balance Propellers...........................................................44

Ground Check..................................................................44

Range Check...................................................................44

ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS.................................44

AMA SAFETY CODE......................................................45

IMAA SAFETY CODE.....................................................45

CHECK LIST ...................................................................46

FLYING ............................................................................47

Fuel Mixture Adjustments................................................47

Takeoff .............................................................................47

Flight................................................................................48

Landing............................................................................48

ENGINE MOUNT TEMPLATES.................................49, 50

Congratulations and thank you for purchasing the Great
Planes Christen Eagle II ARF.Similar in size, shape, assembly
and flying characteristics to the Great Planes Pitts Special
ARF, the “Eagle” provides the same aerobatic thrills and
enjoyment as the Pitts. In fact, with the exception of a few
cosmetic details (such as the trim scheme, cowl, canopy,
wheel pants and the outline of the “tail feathers”), the Great
Planes Eagle has essentially the same airframe as the Pitts.
However, a few structural improvements have also been
incorporated into the Eagle, such as the scale location of the
flying wires, a shortened “engine box” to accommodate gas
engines, a two-place cockpit, two fuel tank mounting locations
and a servo tray for the throttle servo , receiv er and battery.The
full-size Christen Eagle II has a top wingspan of 19'11"
[6.07m]. The Great Planes ARF has a top wingspan of 68.5"
[.17m].Therefore, the scale of this model is 28.7%.There are
two versions of the original Christen Eagle;the Eagle I and the
Eagle II.The “II” preceded the “I” and seated two people. After
its introduction, the “Eagles” aerobatic team converted the
Eagle II to a single-seater Eagle I. Due to the popular ity of the
Eagle II, it was decided that this model would be a “II”as well.

For the latest technical updates or manual corrections to the
Great Planes Christen Eagle II ARF, visit the web site listed
below and select the Great Planes Christen Eagle ARF.If there
is new technical information or changes to this model, a “tech
notice” box will appear in the upper left corner of the page.

http://www.greatplanes.com/airplanes/index.html

The Great Planes Christen Eagle is an excellent sport-scale
model and is eligible to fly in IMAA events. The IMAA
(International Miniature Aircraft Association) is an
organization that promotes non-competitive flying of giant­scale models. If you plan to attend an IMAA event, obtain a
copy of the IMAA Safety Code by contacting the IMAA at
the address or telephone number below, or by logging on to
their web site at:

IMAA

INTRODUCTION

TABLE OF CONTENTS

2

www.fly-imaa.org/imaa/sanction.html

IMAA

205 S. Hilldale Road

Salina, KS 67401

[phone]

Though the Great Planes Christen Eagle II is an ARF and
may not hav e the same level of detail as an “all-out” scratch­built competition model, it is a scale model nonetheless and
is therefore eligible to compete in the Fun Scale class in
AMA competition. In Fun Scale, the “builder of the model”
rule does not apply. To receive the five points for scale
documentation, the only proof required that a full size
aircraft of this type in this paint/markings scheme did exist is
a single sheet such as a kit box cover from a plastic model,
a photo, or a profile painting, etc.If the photo is in black and
white other written documentation of color must be provided.
Contact the AMA for a rule book with full details.

If you would like photos of the full-size Eagle for scale
documentation, or if you would like to study the photos to
add more scale details, photo packs are available from:

Bob's Aircraft Documentation

3114 Y uk on Av e

Costa Mesa, CA 92626

Telephone: [phone]

Fax:[phone]

e-mail: www.bobsairdoc.com

1.Your Chr isten Eagle II should not be considered a toy, but
rather a sophisticated, working model that functions very
much like a full-size airplane. Because of its performance
capabilities, the Christen Eagle II, if not assembled and
operated correctly, could possibly cause injury to yourself or
spectators and damage to property.

2. You must assemble the model according to the
instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so
may result in an unsafe or unflyable model. In a few cases
the instructions may differ slightly from the photos.In those
instances the written instructions should be considered
as correct.

3.You must take time to build straight, true and strong.

4. You must use an R/C radio system that is in first-class
condition, and a correctly sized engine and components
(fuel tank, wheels, etc.) throughout the building process.

5.You must correctly install all R/C and other components so
that the model operates correctly on the ground and in the air .

6.You must check the operation of the model before every
flight to insure that all equipment is operating and that the
model has remained structurally sound. Be sure to check
clevises or other connectors often and replace them if they
show any signs of wear or fatigue.

7. If you are not already an experienced R/C pilot, you
should fly the model only with the help of a competent,
experienced R/C pilot.

8.While this kit has been flight tested to exceed normal use,
if the plane will be used for extremely high stress flying, such
as racing or if an engine larger than one in the
recommended range is used, the modeler is responsible for
taking steps to reinforce the high stress points.

9. WARNING: The cowl, wheel pants, landing gear fairings
and wing struts included in this kit are made of fiberglass,
the fibers of which may cause ey e , skin and respiratory tract
irritation.Never blow into a part (wheel pant, cowl) to remov e
fiberglass dust, as the dust will blow back into your eyes.
Always wear safety goggles, a particle mask and rubber
gloves when grinding, drilling and sanding fiberglass parts.
Vacuum the parts and the work area thoroughly after
working with fiberglass parts.

Remember:Take y our time and follow the instructions to
end up with a well-built model that is straight and true.

If you have not flown this type of model before, we
recommend that you get the assistance of an experienced
pilot in your R/C club for your first flights. If you're not a
member of a club, your local hobby shop has information
about clubs in your area whose membership includes
experienced pilots.

In addition to joining an R/C club, we strongly recommend y ou
join the AMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics). In addition to
other vital functions, the AMA, the governing body of model
aeronautics in the United States, provides insurance to
members who fly in compliance with the Safety Code. You
must be a member to fly at R/C clubs chartered by the
AMA–most of which are.The AMA can also direct you to the
closest club whose membership should have qualified flight

We, as the kit manuf acturer, provide you with a top quality ,
thoroughly tested kit and instructions, but ultimately the
quality and flyability of your finished model depends on
how you build it; therefore, we cannot in any way
guarantee the performance of your completed model, and
no representations are expressed or implied as to the
performance or safety of your completed model.

PRO TECT YOUR MODEL,YOURSELF

& OTHERS...FOLLOW THESE

IMPORTANT SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

Scale Competition

3

instructors. To join the AMA, telephone, write or fax them at
the address below, or join on line at www.modelaircraft.org.

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302-9252

Tele. [phone]

Fax [phone]

Or via the Internet at:

http://www.modelaircraft.org

This is a partial list of items required to finish the Great
Planes Christen Eagle II ARF that may require planning or
decision making before starting to build. Order numbers are
provided in parentheses.

Technically, the Christen Eagle is a giant-scale model, but
it's not really THAT large! Expensive, high-torque servos
aren't necessary to fly this model, but “standard” servos
should not be used either. Ser vos with a torque rating of at
least 50 oz-in [3.9 kg-cm] should be used on the ailerons,
elevator and rudder. If you plan on doing lots of aerobatic
flying where the rudder will be used heavily, you might
consider using an even higher torque servo for the rudder.
Of course, a standard servo may be used on the throttle.

Because the elevator servos move in opposition, either a
transmitter capable of electronic mixing must be used (so one
of the servos can be reversed); or use a separate, in-line
servo mixing device such as the Futaba®SR-10 Synchronized
Servo Reverser (FUTM4150) to reverse one of the servos.

A receiver battery pack with a capacity of no less than 1,000
mAh is also recommended.

The following servo extension cords and connectors were
also used to build this model:

❏ (2) Short Y-connectors such as the Futaba AEC-13 Dual

Servo Extension for Futaba radios for the ailerons in the
wings (FUTM4130).

❏ (1) 24" [610mm] Y-harness for connecting Y-connectors in

wings to the receiver (HCAM2500 for Futaba, HCAM2530
for JR®/Airtronics®Z/Hitec®).

❏ (7) 12" [300mm] servo extension for ailerons , rudder and

elevator servos (HCAM2100 for Futaba, HCAM2130 for
JR/Airtronics Z/Hitec).

Note: Instructions for mounting every possible engine
cannot be incorporated into this manual. Although there are
several engines suitable for powering the Christen Eagle
ARF, instructions are provided for mounting a Fuji™Engines
50SB spark-ignition engine, a U.S. Engines™41cc engine
and an O.S.®MAX 1.60 FX glow engine. Modelers using
different engines may refer to the instructions as a guide.

The recommended engine size range for the Eagle is
specified on the cover of this manual. All engines within the
specified range will power the Eagle well. At no time should
an engine larger than the recommended range be flown on
this model because it has not been tested for such use.
Powered by a two-stroke glow engine such as the O.S.MAX

1.60 FX, the Eagle is able to perform aerobatics and has been
said to fly quite “scale-like.”The Eagle also flies extremely well
with the O.S. MAX FT-300 four-stroke twin.With this engine,
the Eagle's vertical performance is virtually unlimited and it is
capable of hovering.Additionally, powered by the FT-300, the
Eagle has a pleasing, scale-like sound. Powered by the Fuji
BT-50 gas engine, the Eagle was very aerobatic and perfectly
able to handle the additional weight with no bad tendencies.
The Fuji BT-50 is an ideal gas power plant for the Eagle.It is
perfectly concealed within the cowl without having to cut
unsightly holes for the muffler, spark plug or engine head.

When making the decision between a gas engine and a
glow engine, while a gas engine may provide more power,
the additional weight of a gas engine can offset some of the
power advantage. However, the considerably lower cost of
gasoline compared to glow fuel should also be taken into
consideration when choosing a power plant for your Eagle.

If using the Fuji BT-50SB engine the Fuji Engines Short
Propeller Hub (FJIG6754) and (4) 1/4-20 x 1" [25mm] socket
head cap screws and lock washers for mounting the engine
will be required (1/4-20 blind nuts are included with the kit).
If mounting a different gas engine, different hardware may
be required.

If using the U.S. Engines 41cc, a 1/4" x 3-3/4" x 4-1/2" [6.4
x 100 x 115mm] sheet of aircraft plywood will be required for
making the engine mount plate.There is a template on page
50 of the manual

If using a two-stroke glow engine, a Bisson brand Pitts-style
muffler is recommended:

❏ BISG1180 for the Moki 2.10
❏ BISG4116 for the O.S.1.60 FX
❏ BISG4220 for the O.S.BGX 3500
❏ BISG2300 for the SuperTigre

®

3000 or 3250

Per the IMAA Safety Code, magneto spark-ignition engines
must have a coil-grounding switch on the aircraft to stop the
engine and prevent accidental starting. The switch must be
operated manually (without the use of the transmitter) and
accessible by the pilot and assistant. For use with the Fuji

Engine Recommendations

Radio Equipment

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE

4

engine shown, the manually-operated switch was made
from a .3 Amp slide switch, 16-gauge wire and a covered,
crimp-on connector purchased at the local RadioShack.
Slightly different hardware may be required if using a
different spark-ignition engine. All of the components
required should also be available at any hardware or home­improvement store.

The fuel tank, stopper and fuel line included with this kit is
suitable for use with glow fuel.However, if using a gasoline
engine, the stopper and line must be converted to work with
gas.There may be sever al different gas-compatib le stoppers
and lines available, but of the all the combinations tested,
the Du-Bro gas conversion stopper and Du-Bro medium
neoprene fuel tubing are the only ones recommended. The
Du-Bro stopper holds up best to gasoline and the Du-Bro
medium fuel tubing fits tightly and remains attached. Du-Bro
fuel line barbs are also highly recommended for keeping the
lines attached.To use the barbs however, the aluminum fuel
tubes that come with this tank must be replaced with brass
tubing so the barbs can be soldered on.

Following is a list of all the items required to convert the
stopper and fuel lines for use with gasoline:

❏ (1) Du-Bro #400 gas conversion stopper (DUBQ0675)
❏ (2) 2' [610mm] Du-Bro medium neoprene fuel tubing

(DUBQ0455)

❏ (2 pkgs.) Du-Bro #813 1/8" [3.2mm] I.D. fuel line barbs

(DUBQ0670)

❏ (1) 12" [300mm] piece of K+S 1/8" [3.2mm] soft brass

tubing (K+SR5128-box of 5)

Note: Modelers who use glow engines with large silicone
fuel tubing should also use fuel line barbs to ensure that the
larger tubing remains attached to the metal tubes in the
tank. If using fuel line barbs, the aluminum tubes supplied
with the fuel tank will have to be replaced with K&S brass
tubing so the barbs can be soldered on. Fuel line barbs are
not necessary when medium silicone fuel tubing is used.

The Christen Eagle ARF comes with all the hardware
necessary to add semi-scale flying wires. (The wires are
mounted near their scale locations, but the flying wires on
the full-size Eagle are rigid and streamlined rather than the
flexible cable used on this model). The flying wires are for
scale enhancement and are not necessary for flying, so the
Eagle may be flown with or without them. (Most pilots who
are more concerned with aerobatics than they are scale
appearance choose to fly without the wires due to the
additional set up time). To mount the flying wires, simply
follow the instructions in the manual.

While building the Christen Eagle ARF a building stand or
cradle is a necessity. We use the Robart Super Stand II
(ROBP1402) for all of our projects in R&D.

In addition to the items previously listed, following is a list of
the rest of the items required to finish the Christen Eagle II
ARF. Order numbers are provided in parentheses.

❏ Suitable propellers
❏ 1/4" [6mm] (HCAQ1000) or 1/2" [13mm] (HCAQ1050)

R/C foam rubber

❏ 3' [900mm] standard silicone fuel tubing (for glow

engine--GPMQ4131)

❏ 30% scale or 1/4-scale pilot

In addition to common household tools and hobby
supplies, following are the most important items required to
build the Eagle.

Great Planes Pro™CA and Epoxy glue

are recommended.

❏ 1 oz. [30g] Thin Pro CA (GPMR6002)
❏ 1 oz. [30g] Medium Pro CA+ (GPMR6008)
❏ CA applicator tips (HCAR3780)
❏ Pro 30-minute epoxy (GPMR6047)
❏ Epoxy mixing cups (GPMR8056)
❏ Microballoons (TOPR1090)
❏ Threadlocker thread locking cement (GPMR6060)
❏ RTV silicone cement or R/C-56 canopy glue (JOZR5007)
❏ Paint assortment and brushes for painting pilot
❏ Black or gray paint for cockpit and rear instrument panel
❏ Masking tape (TOPR8018)
❏ #1 Hobby knife (HCAR0105)

Adhesives and Building Supplies

Hardware and Accessories

ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED

Building Stand

Optional Flying Wires

Fuel T ank Setup

5

Before starting to build, take an inventory of this kit to make sure it is complete, and inspect the parts to make sure they
are of acceptable quality. If any parts are missing or are not of acceptable quality, or if you need assistance with assembly ,
contact Product Support. When repor ting defective or missing parts, use the part names exactly as they are written in
the Kit Contents list.

3002 N. Apollo Drive, Suite 1

Champaign, IL 61822

Telephone: [phone]

Fax: [phone]

E-mail: [e-mail]

KIT INSPECTION

❏ #11 blades (100-pack, HCAR0311) -or- #11 blades (5-

pack, HCAR0211)

❏ Drill bits: 1/16" [1.6mm], 3/32" [2.4mm], 7/64" [2.8mm],

1/8" [3.2mm], an extended 3/16" [4.8mm] drill, or 3/16"
[4.8mm] brass tube sharpened on the end, 7/32"
[5.6mm], 19/64" [7.6mm] (if using gas engine)

❏ 8-32 tap and #29 drill (only if using glow engine--

GPMR8103)

❏ Small metal file
❏ 1/4" [6.4mm] wrench (for mounting wing struts)
❏ 3mm and 1.5mm hex wrench
❏ Prop Reamer (GPMQ5005)
❏ Stick-on segmented lead weights (GPMQ4485)
❏ Silver solder w/flux (GPMR8070)
❏ Soldering iron or torch for soldering
❏ K & S #801 Kevlar thread or similar (for stab alignment,

K+SR4575)

❏ Rotar y tool such as Dremel

®

❏ Rotar y tool reinforced cut-off wheel (GPMR8200)
❏ Rotary tool cutting bit (suitable for cutting small holes in

fiberglass cowl)

❏ Various small to medium-size C-clamps
❏ Sandpaper assor tment
❏ Small, metal straightedge
❏ Fine-point felt-tip pen such as a Top Flite® Panel Line

Pen (TOPQ2510)

❏ Denatured alcohol (for epoxy clean up)
❏ Naphtha lighter fuel or denatured alcohol (to remove

adhesive from masking tape)

❏ Dave Brown Carbon Fibre Tape (DAVR2000) for reinforcing

wheel pants (see page 24)

❏ 2 oz. [57g] spray CA activator (GPMR6035)
❏ CA debonder (GPMR6039)
❏ Epoxy brushes (6, GPMR8060)
❏ Mixing sticks (50, GPMR8055)
❏ Switch & Charge Jack Mounting Set (GPMM1000)
❏ Hobbico

®

Builder's Triangle Set (HCAR0480)

❏ Curved-tip canopy scissors for trimming plastic parts

(HCAR0667)

❏ Hobbico Duster

™

can of compressed air (HCAR5500)

❏ Milled fiberglass (GPMR6165)
❏ Hobby Heat

™

micro torch (HCAR0750)

❏ Dead Center

™

Engine Mount Hole Locator (GPMR8130)

❏ AccuPoint

™

Laser incidence meter (GPMR4020)

❏ Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer™ (TOPQ5700)

❏ 21st Centur y

®

sealing iron (COVR2700)

❏ 21st Centur y iron cover (COVR2702)

-or-

❏ Top Flite

®

MonoKote®sealing iron (TOPR2100)

❏ Top Flite Hot Sock

™

iron cover (TOPR2175)

• The Christen Eagle II ARF is factory-covered with Top

Flite MonoKote film. Following are the colors used and
order numbers for 6' [1.8m] rolls.

White TOPQ0204
Yellow TOPQ0203

Orange TOPQ0202

True red TOPQ0227

Sapphire Blue TOPQ0226

• The stabilizer and wing incidences and engine thrust

angles have been factory-built into this model. However,
some technically-minded modelers may wish to check
these measurements anyway. To view this information,
visit the web site at www.greatplanes.com and click on
“Technical Data.” Due to manufacturing tolerances
which will have little or no effect on the way your model
will fly, please expect slight deviations between your
model and the published values.

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES

Covering T ools

Optional Supplies and Tools

7

1 Fuselage w/balsa LG cover (two 1/4-20 blind

nuts and five 4-40 blind nuts f actory installed)

2 Fiberglass cowl
3 R&L top wing panels w/ailerons
4 R&L bottom wing panels w/ailerons
5 Stab & elevators
6 Fin & rudder
7 Canopy
8 Top, center wing panel
9 R&L fiberglass wing struts

10 R&L aluminum cabanes
11 Rear instr ument panel
12 4" [100mm] polished aluminum spinner

(cone, backplate, spacers (2), bolt)

13 R&L adjustable engine mount
14 Battery mount
15 Lower fuel tank mount (optional)
16 Servo tray
17 Cowl ring
18 (3) forward bottom wing joiners

19 (3) aft bottom wing joiners
20 Servo tray brace
21 (2) aft top wing joiners
22 (2) forward top wing joiners
23 (8) guide tube supports
24 Fuel tank w/hardware
25 R&L fiberglass wheel pants
26 Aluminum landing gear
27 (2) 4" [100mm] main wheels
28 (2) fiberglass landing gear fairings

Kit Contents (Photographed)

To order replacement parts for the Great Planes Christen Eagle II ARF, use the order numbers in the Replacement P arts
List that follows.Replacement par ts are available only as listed. Not all par ts are available separately (an aileron cannot

be purchased separately, but is only available with the wing kit). Replacement parts are not available from Product
Support, but can be purchased from hobby shops or mail order/Internet order firms. Hardware items (screws, nuts, bolts)
are also available from these outlets. If you need assistance locating a dealer to purchase parts, visit

www.greatplanes.com and click on “Where to Buy.” If this kit is missing parts, contact Product Suppor t.

Replacement Parts List

Missing pieces:.......Contact Product Support

Instruction manual:.......Contact Product Support

Full-size plans: .......Not available

ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS

Order Number

GPMA2440...................T op Wing Set

GPMA2441 ............Bottom Wing Set

GPMA2442..........................Fuselage

GPMA2443 ..............Tail Surface Set

GPMA2444..........Cowl w/Cowl Ring

GPMA2445............................Canopy

GPMA2446 ....................Wheel Pants

GPMA2447..................Landing Gear

Order Number

GPMA2448.........................Decal Set

GPMA2449..........................Cabanes

GPMA2450...........Metal Bracket Set

GPMA2451.....................Wing Struts

GPMA2452 ................LG Fairing Set

GPMA2453............................Spinner

GPMA2454 ...............Flying Wire Set

GPMQ4245........Tail Gear Assembly

KIT CONTENTS

4

10

9

12

8

7

3

14

11

13

15

16

1

2

17

18

23

19

6

5

3

4

24

20

21

22

25

26

27

28

25

28

8

WASHERS:

(5) #4 lock washers (cowl ring)
(13) #4 flat washers (5-cowl ring, 8-wing strut

mounting)

(14) #8 flat washers (6-main wheel spacers, 8

glow engine mounting)

(8) #8 lock washers (4-GP engine mount to

firewall, 4-engine to GP mount)

FL YING WIRE CABLES:

(Measurements are from clevis pin to clevis pin)
(2) "Y" bottom tail wires
(4) 10-1/4" [260mm] top tail wires
(4) 21-1/2" [545mm] top wing to fuselage
(4) 22-1/4" [565mm] top wing to bottom wing
(1) bottom tail wire bracket
(30) clevis retainers

SHEET-METAL SCREWS:

(50) #4 x 1/2" [13mm] screw (16-aileron control

horns, 4-wheel pant mounting, 30-various

strut, cabane & bracket mounting)
(2) #4 x 5/8" [16mm] screw (tail gear mounting)
(6) #8 x 5/8" [16mm] screw (main LG mounting)
(8) #2 x 3/8" [10mm] button-head screw (canopy)

WHEEL COLLARS:

(4) 3/16" [4.8mm] wheel collars (main wheels)
(2) 3/32" [2.4mm] wheel collars (on rudder

pushrod for tail steering)
(3) 3mm wheel collars
(4) 3mm set screws for tail gear wire

NYLON:

(2) 2" x 9" [50 x 230mm] CA hinge strip
(7) large control horns (4-ailerons, 2-elevators,

1-rudder)
(3) mounting plate for large control horns (2-

elevator, 1-rudder)
(2) 1/4-20 x 2" [50mm] nylon wing bolts
(1) 4-40 torque rod horn (tail steering)
(2) ball link (tail steering pushod, throttle)
(1) clevis (throttle)
(1) nylon retainer for screw lock

TAIL GEAR PARTS:

Aluminum tail gear mount
Tail gear wire
1-1/4" [32mm] tail wheel
Steering arm
(3) 3mm wheel collars
(4) 3mm set screws
(2) springs (not used)
(2) 3 x 12mm screws

PLYWOOD PARTS:

(4 sets) cowl ring mounting tabs
(2) wheel pant braces
(2) brace doublers
(4) axle braces

METAL HARDWARE:

(7) 4-40 threaded metal clevis (4-ailerons, 2-

elevators, 1-rudder)

(7) Large solder clevis (4-ailerons, 2-elevators,

1-rudder)
(1) small solder clevis (tail steering pushrod)
(2) 3/16" x 2" [4.8 x 50mm] axles
(30) small threaded metal clevis

MACHINE-THREAD SCREWS:

(4) 8-32 x 1-1/4" [32mm] SHCS (GP engine

mount to firewall)
(4) 8-32 x 1" [25mm] SHCS (engine to GP mount)
(1) 8-32 x 3/4" [19mm] SHCS (drawing blind

nuts into firewall)
(15) 4-40 x 1/2" [13mm] SHCS (5-cowl ring, 10-

wing strut & cabane mounting)

(12) 4-40 x 3/4" [19mm] SHCS (rudder & elevator

control horns)

(2) 4-40 set screws (for wheel collars for tail

steering)
(1) 2-56 ball link ball (tail steering arm)
(4) 6-32 x 1/4" [6mm] SHCS (main landing gear

wheel collars)
(1) 4-40 x 1/8" [3mm] SHCS (for screw-lock)
(1) 2-56 ball link ball (carb end of throttle)
(6) 4-40 x 5/8" [16mm] screw (tail wire bracket

mounting)

PUSHRODS:

(4) 4-40 x 4-1/2" [115mm] pushrod (ailerons)
(3) 4-40 x 5-3/4" [145mm] pushrod (elevators-2,

rudder-1)
(1) 2-56 x 12" [305mm] pushrod (tail steering)
(1) 24" [610mm] pushrod tube (throttle)
(1) 24" [610mm] white, plastic pushrod (throttle-

gas)
(1) 2-56 x 36" [910mm] throttle pushrod (glow)
(2) 2-56 x 1" [25mm] threaded rod (throttle gas)

SOLID WOOD PARTS:

(2) 3/8" x 1-3/16" [10x 30mm] wing dowels
(2) 1/8" x 10" [3 x 250mm] wood dowels (firewall)

NUTS:

(9) 4-40 blind nuts (5 factory-installed for cowl ring,

4 extras for relocating screws if necessary)

(6) 1/4-20 blind nuts (2 factory-installed for wing

bolts, 4 mounting gas engines)
(13) 4-40 nut (7-clevis jam-nuts, 6-tail wire

bracket mounting)
(31) 2-56 nut (tail steering ball link ball)
(4) 8-32 blind nuts (for GP engine mount)
(2) large axle nuts (landing gear axles)
(2) 2-56 nuts (for ball link ball on carb and on

tail wheel steering arm)

(10) 4-40 lock nuts (wing strut & cabane

mounting)

OTHER:

(18) silicone retainers (pushrod clevises)
(4) #64 Rubber bands (fuel tank mounting)
(6) 3/8" [10mm] heat shrink tubing (for servo

extensions)

(1) 1" x 12" [25 x 300mm] fiberglass tape (cowl

ring)
(1) brass body screw-lock connector (servo end)
(1) 4" [100mm] brass tube (for tail wire collars)
(2) Velcro strips
Decal set
Extended 3/32" [2.4mm] ball-end hex wrench
(1) 3" Silicone tubing (for tail steering pushrod)

Kit Contents (Not Photographed)

METAL BRACKETS:

There are a total of thirty-five metal brackets used
to mount the wings and optional flying wires.Below
is a description and sketch of each bracket.

(2) bottom, front wing struts

(2) top, front wing struts

(12) stab flying wire mounts,

wing flying wire mounts

(2) top, center of wing flying

wire mounts

(4) fin flying wire mounts

(2) bottom, aft wing struts

(2) top, aft wing struts

(2) top, forward cabane mounts

(1) Bottom of fuselage for tail

(2) top, aft cabane mounts

(4) fuselage flying wire

mounts near LG

A1

A2

A3

Bottom T ail Bracket

B1

B2

B3

B4

C1

C2

C3

❏ 1. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue together the three

plywood aft bottom wing joiners and the three plywood
forward bottom wing joiners. Clamp the joiners together

and wipe away excess epoxy. (Steel spring clamps are ideal
for holding the joiners together.) Note: If you happen to
notice that one of the joiners is thinner than the other two, it
doesn’t matter where in the “stack” it is positioned.

Now the joiners will be ready when it’s time to glue together
the bottom wings.

Start with the bottom, left wing panel first so yours
looks like the photos the first time through.

❏ 2. Carefully remove the masking tape holding the aileron

to the wing. Residual adhesive from the tape may be
removed with naphtha lighter fuel or denatured alcohol.

❏ 3. Use a covering iron with a covering sock to thoroughly

bond the covering to the structure and remove any wrinkles in

the wing and aileron.The best way is to glide the iron over the
covering until the wrinkles disappear, then push down on the
iron to bond the covering to the wood. If you come across a
wrinkle that won’t go away, the balsa in that area may be
bending inward. If this is happening, do not apply pressure.
Simply let the heat of the iron shrink the covering. If the
wrinkles momentarily disappear, then immediately reappear,
the iron may be too hot, thus causing air bubbles. Lower the
temperature of the iron or use a sharp #11 blade to puncture
several small holes in the covering, then reheat. The
suggested iron temperature is around 360 degrees F. Hint:
Any MonoKote pigment that gets smeared on other areas
may be removed with a tissue lightly dampened with
MonoKote Trim Solvent or CA debonder. Trim solvent and
debonder are powerful, so using too much may loosen the
covering if it gets under the seams.To avoid this, immediately
wipe away excess solvent using another tissue dampened
with household spray cleaner (Windex®, Formula 409®).

Suggestion: Before tightening the covering over the ailerons,
use a pin to poke six to eight holes in the covering over each
lightening hole on the bottom.(Where possible, poke the holes
in colored areas where there are two layers of co vering.) When
heating the covering, expanding air will escape through the
holes, thus allowing the covering to fully tighten.

❏ 4. While you’ve got your covering tools out, use a

straightedge and a hobby knife to cut the covering 1/8"
[3mm] inside the edges of the opening in the bottom of the
wing panel for the aileron servo.Use a trim seal tool to iron
the covering down inside the edges of the opening.

Prepare the Wings

ASSEMBLE THE WINGS

9

❏ 5. Cut the covering from the hole in the bottom of the

center section for the aileron servo wire.

Again, start with the bottom, left wing first…

❏ 1. Only three hinges are required for each aileron, but you

might as well go ahead and cut all the hinges now .Cut twenty­two 1" x 1" [25 x 25mm] CA hinges from the supplied CA
hinge strips. Cut off the corners so the hinges go in easier.

❏ 2. Test fit the aileron to the wing with the hinges. If the

hinge slots are too tight, enlarge the slots using a hobby
knife with a #11 blade. Move the blade from side-to-side to
loosen the slots.Note that it’s the back side of the blade that
does the work.

❏ 3. In order for the CA to get full penetration all the way into

the hinge slots a strip of covering must be removed from each
slot. This is done by first marking the ends of the hinge slots
with small slits cut in the covering in the wing and aileron.

❏ 4. Remove the aileron and take out the hinges. Use a

small metal ruler and a #11 blade to cut a small strip of
covering from the hinge slots between the slits.

❏ 5. Inser t a T-pin through the middle of three hinges. Install

the hinges in the wing, then join the aileron.Remove the T-pins.

Note: The following three steps describe how to prepare
the hinge slots for gluing in the CA hinges.This procedure
may appear to be a little more “involved” than one would
prefer for an ARF, but you will be rewarded with close, clean
hinge gaps and free-moving, securely hinged surfaces.

Hinge the Ailerons

10

1" [25mm]

1"

[25mm]

❏ 6. Adjust the aileron so there is a small gap between the

trailing edge of the wing and the leading edge of the
aileron—just enough to see light through or to slip a piece of
paper through. Add six to eight drops of thin CA to both
sides of all three hinges. Using a CA applicator tip is highly
recommended. Allow enough time between drops to allow
the CA to soak in—otherwise, excess CA will get into the
hinge gap.

❏ 7. Tighten the covering, open the servo hatches and join

the ailerons to the remaining three wing panels the same way.

❏ 8. Cut the covering from the openings in the bottom wing

panels for the servo wires and the wing bolts.Tape the string
for the servo wires to the top of the panels.

Do the bottom wing first…

❏ 1. Round both ends of the 3/8" x 1-3/16" [10 x 30mm]

hardwood wing dowels.

❏ 2. Use a bar sander with coarse sandpaper to tr ue the

edges and remove any excess hardened epoxy from the
forward and aft bottom wing joiners prepared earlier.
Without using any glue, test join the bottom wings with the
joiners and the dowels.Make any adjustments necessary for
a good fit. The dihedral angle of the bottom wing is factory­set and determined by the angle of the wing joiners.
However, those who wish to confirm the dihedral angle may
do so by placing one wing panel flat on the workbench and
measuring the distance from the tip of the other panel to the
bench. The distance should be 5-1/4" [133mm], but small
variances are acceptable.

Join the Wings

11

BOTT OM WING

5-1/4"

[133mm]

❏ 3.Lay two or three paper towels on top of each other .Use

scissors to cut them into smaller squares. These will come
in handy throughout assembly. Gather the rest of the items
required for joining the bottom wing including 30-minute
epoxy, a mixing cup, an epoxy brush, mixing sticks, masking
tape and a sheet of wax paper to protect your workbench.

The key to a secure wing joint is applying epoxy to all
contacting surfaces—this means both inside the wing
between the spars and to the joiners…

❏ 4. Mix approximately 1 oz. [30ml] of 30-minute epoxy.

Working quickly, pour a generous amount into one wing
half where the joiners go. Use a piece of wire or a dowel to
thoroughly spread the epoxy, coating all surfaces inside.
Coat the end of the wing and one half of both joiners with
epoxy. Inser t the coated ends of the joiners into the wing.
Immediately proceed to the next step.

❏ 5. Coat the inside and the end of the other panel with

epoxy. Also coat the protruding end of the joiners in the first
panel. Join the wings and wipe away excess epoxy as it
squeezes out. Coat one end of the dowels with epoxy, then
insert them into the wings.Be certain the dowels ke y into the
holes in the forward joiner. 3/8" [10mm] of the dowels should
protrude. Immediately proceed to the next step.

❏ 6. Tightly tape the wing together with several strips of

masking tape on the top and bottom. Use the small paper
towel squares dampened with denatured alcohol to wipe
away excess epoxy as the tape is applied. Be certain the
trailing edges of both wing halves accurately align.After the
wing is all taped together, epoxy under any of the strips of
masking tape can be wiped away by removing the strip,
wiping away the epoxy, then replacing the strip.After all the
epoxy has been cleaned up, set the wing aside and do not
disturb until the epoxy has hardened.

❏ 7. After the epoxy joining the bottom wings has

hardened, remove the masking tape.If there is still residual
hardened epoxy that you weren’t able to remove before, you
may be able to pic k it off with a #11 b lade or, in some cases,
remove it with a paper towel square wetted with denatured
alcohol. Use a covering iron with a covering sock to re-bond
any covering that lifted while peeling off the masking tape.

Now join the top wing. One outer panel at a time will be
joined to the center panel…

❏ 8. Without using any glue, test fit the outer panels to the

center panel with the forward and aft top wing joiners.The
angled side of the joiners faces forw ard.There is no dihedral
in the top wing, so it should be flat. Make any adjustments
necessary for a good fit.

❏ 9. Untape the strings on the ends of both outer panels

and on both ends of the center panel. Temporarily put the
strings inside the wings so they will not be in the way.

12

❏ 10. Prepare 1 oz. of 30-minute epoxy .The same as when

joining the bottom wing, thoroughly coat one side of the
joiners and all mating surfaces of one side of the center
panel and the adjoining outer panel with epoxy. Take the
strings back out of the ends of the joining panels. Slide the
panels together until they are about 3/4" [19mm] apart. Tie
the ends of the strings together. Slide the panels the rest of
the way together, simultaneously pulling the str ing from the
aileron servo opening. Tightly tape the panels together,
wiping away excess epoxy as it squeezes out.

❏ 11. Pulling the string from both ends (from the servo

opening in the outer panel and from the other end of the
center panel), shift the string back and forth a few times to
make sure it does not get glued inside the wing. Do this a
few times as the epoxy continues to harden. Set the wing
aside until the epoxy fully hardens.

❏ 12. Remove the masking tape and join the other outer

panel to the other side of the center panel. Be sure not to
glue the string in the wing. After the epoxy hardens remove
the masking tape and tighten the covering.

Start with the bottom, right wing so yours looks like the
photos the first time through…

Refer to this photo while mounting the aileron servo.

❏ 1. Test fit the aileron servo in the servo opening in the

bottom of the wing. If necessary, use a hobby knife to
enlarge the opening to fit the servo.

❏ 2. Connect a 12" [300mm] servo extension wire to the

aileron servo. Slip a 1-1/2" [38mm] piece of heat shrink
tubing supplied with this kit over the connection, then
carefully shrink the tubing with a small flame (from a
soldering torch) or a heat gun. Tie the string in the servo
opening to the end of the servo wire. Pull the wire through
the wing and out of the hole in the middle. Place the servo
in the opening.

❏ 3. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes into the wing for mounting the

servo.Mount the ser vo using the screws that came with it.

❏ 4. IMPORTANT! Remove the screws and the servo.Add

a few drops of thin CA to the holes to harden the “threads.”
Allow the CA to fully harden, then remount the servo.

❏ 5. Make a one-ar m servo arm by cutting off the unused

arms. Install the arm on the ser vo.

❏ 6. Thread a 4-40 nut and a 4-40 clevis onto a 4-40 x 4-

1/2" [115mm] pushrod. Slip a silicone retainer over the
clevis. Connect the clevis to the middle hole of a nylon
control horn.

❏ 7. Position the control horn on the aileron with the

pushrod in alignment with the servo arm. Make sure the
horn is on the hardwood plate built into the aileron.Push the
control horn into the aileron until the spikes on the bottom
lock into the wood.Using care not to drill all the way through
the aileron, drill four 3/32" [2.4mm] holes for mounting the
horn.Mount the control horn to the aileron with four #4 x 1/2"
[13mm] screws.

Hook Up the Ailerons

13

❏ 8. IMPORTANT! The same as was done with the servo

mounting screws, remove the screws holding the control
horn to the aileron and add a few drops of thin CA to harden
the “threads” in the aileron. Allow the CA to fully harden,
then remount the horn.

❏ 9. Center the aileron and servo arm. Cut the pushrod to

the correct length, then solder it to a large, non-threaded
metal clevis using the techniques described in the following

Expert Tip.

How to Solder

❏ 1. Use denatured alcohol or other solvent to thoroughly

clean the pushrod. Use coarse sandpaper to roughen the
end of the pushrod where it is to be soldered.

❏ 2. Apply a few drops of soldering flux to the end of the

pushrod, then use a soldering iron or a torch to heat it. “Tin”
the heated area with silver solder (GPMR8070) by applying
the solder to the end. The heat of the pushrod should melt
the solder—not the flame of the torch or soldering iron—
thus allowing the solder to flow. The end of the wire should
be coated with solder all the way around.

❏ 3.Place the clevis on the end of the pushrod.Add another

drop of flux, then simultaneously heat the clevis and pushrod.
Slide the clevis the rest of the way onto the pushrod as the
solder melts. Apply another small amount of solder while the
pushrod and clevis are still hot.The same as before, the heat
of the parts being soldered should melt the solder, thus
allowing it to flow. Allow the joint to cool naturally without
disturbing. Avoid excess blobs, but make certain the joint is
thoroughly soldered.The solder should be shiny, not rough.If
necessary, reheat the joint and allow to cool.

❏ 4. Immediately after the solder has solidified, but while it

is still hot, carefully use a cloth to quickly wipe off the flux
before it hardens.Important: After the joint cools, coat with
oil to prevent rust.Note: Do not use the acid flux that comes
with silver solder for electrical soldering.

This is what a properly soldered clevis looks like; shiny
solder with good flow, no blobs, flux removed.

❏ 10. Slide a silicone retainer over the clevis, then connect

the aileron to the servo with the pushrod. The clevis will be
adjusted and the nut will be tightened when setting up the
radio later.

❏ 11. Mount and hook up the remaining three aileron

servos the same way. Note: The servo arms on all four
servos should “point” toward the wing tips.

❏ 12. Connect the aileron servo wires in the wings to a

short Y-connector such as the Futaba AEC-13 J-series dual
extension cord (FUTM4130 for Futaba). Secure the
connection with tape or heat shrink tubing.

Hey, that’s about it for the wings. Set the wings in a safe
place (but not too far away!) and get ready to start on
the fuselage.

❏ 1. Remove the masking tape and separate the elevators

from the stab and the rudder from the fin.The same as was
done with the ailerons, use a pin to poke sev er al holes in the
covering on the bottom of the stab and elevators and in one
side of the fin and rudder to allow air to escape while
tightening the covering. Use a covering iron with a covering
sock to tighten the covering.

❏ 2. Prepare all the hinge slots by test fitting the hinges and

cutting a strip of covering from each slot.

If you haven’t yet done so, get a building stand to
support the fuselage while working on it.The Robart
Super Stand II (ROBP1402) is recommended.

❏ 1. Peel off the masking tape and remove the balsa

landing gear cover from the bottom of the fuselage. The
same as was done with the wings and tail surfaces, use a
covering iron with a covering sock to tighten the covering
and remove any wrinkles from the fuselage.

Join the Stab and Fin to the Fuselage

Prepare the Tail Surfaces for Hinging

ASSEMBLE THE FUSELAGE

14

❏ 2. Cut the covering from the slots in both sides of the

fuselage for the stabilizer and cut the covering 1/8" [3mm]
inside the edges of the openings for the two elevator and
one rudder servos.Seal the covering inside the edges of the
servo openings.

❏ 3.Tempor arily place the rudder and elevator servos in the

servo openings (for now, it doesn’t matter which way the
servos go—this step is just for drilling the holes before the
stab is glued in). Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes for the servo
mounting screws. Install, then remove the screws and
servos. Add a few drops of thin CA to the screw holes.The
servos will be mounted after the stab has been glued in.

❏ 4. Bolt the bottom wing to the fuselage with two 1/4-20 x

2" [50mm] nylon bolts. Slide the stab into the fuselage and
temporarily center it as best as you can by eye. Stand
approximately ten feet behind the model and view the
alignment of the stab and wing. If the stab is not parallel with
the wing, place a small weight on the “high side”of the stab to

bring it into alignment. If weight is not enough, remove the
stab from the fuselage and lightly trim or sand the stab saddle
as necessary until you can get the stab parallel with the wing.

❏ 5. Once the stab and wing align, center the trailing edge

of the stab from side-to-side in the fuselage, taking accurate
measurements. Stick a T-pin through the back of the
fuselage into the stab.This will allow the front of the stab to
be shifted while keeping the trailing edge centered.

❏ 6. Stick a T-pin through the top of the fuselage over the

center stringer at F-1.Tie a loop in one end of a 50" [1270mm]
piece of non-elastic string such as monofilament or Kevlar line
(K+SR4575). Slip the loop in the string over the T-pin.

❏ 7. Fold a piece of masking tape over the string near the

other end and draw an arrow on it. Slide the tape along the
string and align the arrow with one end of the stab as shown

15

in the photo. Swing the string over to the same position on
the other end of the stab. Pivot the stab on the T-pin in the
trailing edge and slide the tape along the string until the
arrow aligns with both ends of the stab.

❏ 8. Use a fine-point felt-tip pen such as a Top Flite

®

Panel
Line Pen (TOPQ2510) to mark the outline of the fuselage all
the way around both sides of the stab.

❏ 9. Remove the stab from the fuselage.Use a single-edge

razor blade, a sharp,new #11 blade or follow the Expert Tip
below to cut the covering from the stab along the lines.Use
care to cut only into the covering and not into the wood.
Cutting into the balsa will weaken the structure.

How to Cut Covering from Balsa

To avoid cutting into the balsa, use a soldering iron instead
of a hobby knife to cut the covering.The tip of the soldering
iron doesn’t have to be sharp, but a fine tip does work best.
Allow the iron to heat fully. Use a straightedge to guide the
soldering iron at a rate that will just melt the covering and not
burn into the wood. The hotter the soldering iron, the faster
it must travel to melt a fine cut.

❏ 10.Peel the covering from the center of the stab .Remove

any ink with one of your paper towel squares dampened with
denatured alcohol. Re-seal the ends of the covering to the
stab where it may have lifted while peeling off the covering
in the middle.

❏ 11. Wrap one side of the stab with a thin plastic bag or

cellophane to protect it from epoxy when it’s time to glue it
into position.

❏ 12.Thoroughly coat the top and bottom of the stab saddle

area in the fuselage where the stab fits and the top and bottom
of the stab with 30-minute epoxy. Slide the stab into position.
Remove the plastic wrap and use y our paper to w el squares to
wipe off excess epoxy.Check the stab alignment the same way
you did before by viewing the alignment with the wing,
centering the trailing edge and using the pin and string. Do not
disturb the fuselage until the epoxy has hardened.

16