Gas gas EC 200, EC 250, EC 125 SERVICE MANUAL SERVICE MANUAL

SERVICE MANUAL

SERVICE MANUAL

Foreword

GAS GAS thank you for your confidence

By choosing the new GAS GAS EC 125/ 200/ 250/ 300 you have just entered the great GAS GAS family and,
as a user of the number one off-road motorbike manufacturer, you deserve the distinguished treatment that
we wish to offer to you both in our after-sale relationship and in the explanations that we provide in this manual.

Our EC 125/ 200/ 250/ 300 is a bike conceived for the practice of high-competition enduro. It is actually the
fruit of many years of competition and experimentation in this demanding discipline, as well as the many great
successes achieved thanks to great trial riders who have contributed with their expertise to the basic data that
have allowed us to create a high-level motorbike.

Congratulations for making the right choice. With your skills at the commands of this motorbike, an adequate
preparation and the indispensable servicing for this GAS GAS to be highly reliable, you will be able to enjoy
the most comfortable and rewarding enduro practice.

Thanks for your confidence and welcome to GAS GAS Motos.

February 2003

EC 2003 -64-

COMMON NOTICE

Whenever you see the symbols shown below, heed their instructions!
Always follow safe operating and maintenance practices.

WARNING

This warning symbol identifies special instructions or procedures
which, if not correctly followed, could result in personal injury, or loss
of live.

CAUTION
This caution symbol identifies special instructions or procedures
which, if noto strictly observed, could result in damage to or destruction
of equipment.

NOTE
This note symbol indicates points of particular interest for more
efficient and convenient operation.

However, if improverly conducted, the sport has the potential to
cause environmental problems as well as conflicts with other people.
Responsible use of your off-road motorcycle will ensure that these
problems and conflicts do not occur.

TO PROTECT THE FUTURE OF YOUR SPORT, MAKE SURE
YOU USE YOUR BIKE LEGALLY, SHOW CONCERN FOR THE
ENVIRONMENT, AND RESPECT THE RIGHTS OF OTHER
PEOPLE.

Off-road motorcycle riding is a wonderful sport, and we hope you
will enjoy it to the fullest.

EC 2003 -65-

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Foreword.........................................................................................64

Common notice...............................................................................65

Table of contents.............................................................................66

Specifications..................................................................................67

Location of Components.................................................................69

Side Stand.......................................................................................71

Fuel .................................................................................................71

Serial number..................................................................................73

Starting the engine..........................................................................73

Shifting gears ..................................................................................74

Stopping the motorcycle .................................................................75

Table of maintenance......................................................................76

Ignition timing..................................................................................78

Cooling system................................................................................78

Spark plug.......................................................................................81

Transmission...................................................................................81

Air cleaner.......................................................................................83

Throtlle cable...................................................................................84

Carburetor.......................................................................................84

Clutch..............................................................................................85

Silencer packing change.................................................................85

Drive chain ......................................................................................86

Handlebar........................................................................................88

Brakes.............................................................................................89

Steering...........................................................................................90

Steering blocade .............................................................................91

Front fork.........................................................................................92

Rear suspension .............................................................................95

Wheel..............................................................................................97

Cleaning..........................................................................................98

Bolt and nut tightening ....................................................................99

Lubrication.....................................................................................101

Tunning (Carburetor and suspension) ..........................................102

Preparation check..........................................................................111

Storage..........................................................................................112

Gas Gas speedo instructions ........................................................112

Troubleshooting.............................................................................114

Warranty regulations .....................................................................118

EC 2003 -66-

SPECIFICATIONS

ENGINE 2 cycle, single cylinder, crank case induction, liquid cooled
Engine 125 cc.
Bore and stroke 54 x 54.5 mm.
Displacement in cubic centimeters 124 cc.

Engine 200 cc.
Bore and stroke 62.5 x 65 mm.
Displacement in cubic centimeters 199,4 cc.

Engine 250 cc.
Bore and stroke 66.4 x 72 mm.
Displacement in cubic centimeters 249,3 cc.

Engine 300 cc.
Bore and stroke 72 x 72 mm.
Displacement in cubic centimeters 294,7 cc.

Type
Carburetor KEIHIN PWK 38
Lubrication system Fuel premix (ratio) (50:1)(2%)
Starting system Kick start pedal
Ignition system CDI system.
Ignition timing 1 mm APMS.
Spark plug NGK BR8EG

TRANSMISSION
Transmission type 6 speed
Clutch type Multidisc in oil bath, hidraulic actuation
Driving system Chain
Gear Ratio 1ª 2.071(29/14)

2ª 1.625(26/16)
3ª 1.333(24/18)
4ª 1.100(22/20)
5ª 0.913(21/23)
6ª 0.791(19/24)

Primary reduction ratio 2.85 (57/20)
Final reduction ratio 3.692 (48/13)
Overall drive ratio 8.149 (6th gear)

EC 2003 -67-

Transmission oil Capacity 1800 cc.

Type 5W50 API SF o SG
CHASSIS

Type Chromolly tubular semi double cradle
Tires Front 80/100 x 21

Rear 120/90 x 18
Suspension Front Upside-down telescopic ø 43mm WP fork.

Upside-down telescopic ø 45mm Marzocchi fork.
Rear Progressive system with single shock, multi adjustable, ÖHLINS
Suspension stroke Front 282 mm.

Rear 320 mm.

Front fork oil (each) Marzocchi SAE 7,5

WP SAE 5
ÖHLINS SAE 5 - 7,5

Front fork oil level Marzocchi: 110 mm (compressed with spring removed).

WP: 120 mm (compressed with spring removed).
ÖHLINS: 110 mm (compressed with spring removed).

BRAKES
Type Front, rear Disc brake
Effective disc diameter Front 260 mm.

Rear 220 mm.

DIMENSIONS
Overall length 2135 mm.
Overall width 810 mm.
Overall height 1260 mm.
Wheell base 1475 mm.
Ground clearance 340 mm.
Fuel tank capacity 9,5 Litre (2,5 gallons u.s.)
Height seat 940 mm.

(Specifications are subject to change without notice and are not applicable in some countries).

EC 2003 -68-

Location of components
GAS GAS EC 2003 cc.

1 3 24 5 6

1- Clutch lever
2- Engine Stop Button
3- Fuel Tank Fill Cap
4- Front Brake Fluid Reservoir
5- Front Brake lever
6- Throttle Twist-Grip

EC 2003 -69-

8

10

9

12 18

197

2011

13 9

14

1615

17

7- Brake Disc, front
8- Front Suspension
9- Brake fluid reservoir, rear
10- Fuel Tank
11- Carburetor
12- Rear shock absorber
13- Brake Caliper, front
14- Radiator
15- Fuel Tap
16- Shift pedal

EC 2003 -70-

21

22

24 25

17- Air Cleaner
18- Silencer
19- Seat
20- Nitrogen Reservoir
21- Chain Guide
22- Drive chain
23- Rear Suspension Linkage
24- Rear Brake Pedal
25- Kick Start Pedal
26- Exhaust Expansion Chamber

2623

SIDE STAND

FUEL

To operate the side stand:

Release the security strap (B), the sidestand is held in the down
position by the weight of the motorcycle. Thes sidestand automatically
retracts when the motorcycle is placed in the upright position.

(B)

(C)

(A)

(A). Side Stand
(B). Sidestand spring

(C). Security strap

NOTE
Do not start the engine or ride the motorcycle when the side
stand is down. Always engage the security strab (B) before
operation of the motorcycle.

The GAS GAS FSE 400 cc has a four stroke engine and requires
95 octane, unleaded gasoline

Gas Tank Capacity

ENDUCROSS FSE 9,5L

(B)

(A)

(A). Fuel Cap.
(B). Fuel Vent hose.

Position the vent hose clip in a position which prevents spillage on
the steering bearings and the clock.

EC 2003 -71-

RECOMENDED FUEL

Use premium gasoline with an octane rating equal to or higher than
that shown in the table.

Recomended Oil:

OIL 2T SINTETIC

OCTANE RATING METHOD MINIUM

RATING

Antiknock Index (RON+MON)/2 90

Research Octane No. (RON) 98

NOTE
If "knocking" or "pinging" occurs, try a different brand of
gasoline or higher octane grade.

WARNING

Gasoline is extremely flammable and can be explosive under certain
conditions. Always stop the engine and do not smoke. Make sure
the area is well ventilated and free from any source of flame or
sparks; this includes any appliance with a pilot light.

Engine Oil Mixing

Oil must be mixed with the gasoline to lubricate the piston, cylinder,
crankshaft, bearings, and connecting rod bearings.

If recommended oil is not available, use only synthetic oil

NOTE

designed for use in racing 2 cycle engines.

Proporción of gasoline and oil mixture (premix ratio)(50 parts gasoline
to 1 part oil).

CAUTION
Do not mix vegetable and mineral based oils.
Too much oil will cause excessive smoking and spark plug fouling.
Too little oil will cause engine damage or premature wear.

To make an gasoline-oil mixture, pour oil and half of the gasoline
into a container first and stir the mixture thoroughly. Then add the
rest of the gasoline and stir the mixture well.

NOTE
At low temperature, oil will not easily mix with gasoline. Take
time to ensure a well-blended mixture.
The lubricative quality of this mixture deteriorates rapidly; use
a fresh mixture for each day of operation.

EC 2003 -72-

SERIAL NUMBER

START THE ENGINE

This number allows the motorcycle to be registered. The serial
number (or V.I.N.) is located on the steering stem of the frame.

Official approval plate

This motorcycle has an official approval plate. It shows the serial
number.

(A)

1. You have to assure the motorcycle to the neutral position.

2. Turn right the key of fuel tank (A).

ON

Open

OFF

Close

(A)

(B)

RES

Reserve

3. If the engine is
cold, pull up the
choke knob (B).

EC 2003 -73-

- When the engine is already warm or on hot days, open

(F)

NOTE

the throttle part way instead of using the choke knob.

- If the engine is flooded, kick with the throttle fully open.

- If the clutch lever is pulled, the motorcycle can be
started while in any gear.

SHIFTING GEARS

The transmission is a 6 speed, return shift type with neutral halfaway
between 1st and 2nd gears. A ¨return shift¨means that to go back
to first gear from a higher gear, you must shift back through the gears
one by one. The same is true when upshifting: each gear must be
engaged before the next higher gear may be selected.

To engage first gear from neutral, pull in the clutch lever and push
down on the shift pedal, gently release the clutch lever, then release
the shift pedal.

4. Start the
motorcycle with
kick start pedal (F).

5. Even after the engine starts, keep the choke knob pulled up. Until
the engine is thoroughly warmed up.

Stopping the engine

1. Change to the neutral position.

(A)

3. Turn the key in the unclock direction (position in "OFF" (C)).

2. After racing the
engine slightly,
close the throttle
completely and
push the engine
stop button (A).

When changing gears, press firmly on the shift pedal to ensure

CAUTION

complete, positive shifting. Careless, incomplete shifts can cause
the transmission to jump out of gear and lead to engine damage.

(A)

(A). Shift pedal.

EC 2003 -74-

STOPPING THE MOTORCYCLE

For maximum deceleration, close the throttle (A) and apply both
front and rear brakes. Disengage the clutch as the motorcycle comes
to a stop. Independent use of the front or rear brake may be
advantageous under certain conditions.
Downshift progressively as speed is reduced to ensure good engine
response when you want to accelerate.

(A)

BREAK-IN

Para obtener un óptimo funcionamiento del motor y la transmisión,
es necesario una suave ejecución, teniendo que llevarse a cabo un
rodaje previo. Para la primera hora o 20 Km. de la operación, rodar
el motor a una baja y moderada velocidad y r/min.

NOTE
The slow riding necessary during the break-in period may cause
carbon to build up on the spark plug and foul it. If inspection
of the spark plug shows this to be the case, replace the standard
spark plug with a hotter spark plug for the duration of the break­in period.

SPARK PLUG
Standard Plug Hotter Plug

NGK BR8EG

1. Start the engine and let it run at idle until the engine is thoroughly
warmed up.

2. Stop and let the engine cool completely.

3. Start the engine and ride for 10 minutes at moderate speed ­NEVER ACCELERATE HARD.

4. Stop and let the engine cool completely. Be sure to check and
adjust chain slack and spoke tightness and make a general inspection.

5. Start the engine and ride for 20 minutes at moderate speed. ­NEVER ACCELERATE HARD.

6. Stop and let the engine cool completely. Check and adjust as step
(look maintenance and adjustment table).

7. Install the parts removed.

8. Fill the radiator up to the bottom of the radiator filler, bleed the
air from the cooling system.

9. Start the engine and ride for 30 minutes at moderate speed ­NEVER ACCELERATE HARD.

10. Stop and let the engine cool completely, check and adjust.

11. After the break-in procedure has been properly carried out, the
motorcycle is ready for regular operation. However, since recklessly
high r/min (rpm) will lead to engine trouble, take care to use the
necessary skill and technique in operating the motorcycle.

CAUTION
However, since recklessly high r/min (rpm) will lead to engine trouble,
take care to use the necessary skill and technique in operating the
motorcycle.

NOTE
After break-in, install a new standard spark plug, and change
the transmission oil.

EC 2003 -75-

Part

MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENT

Check /

inspect

Adjust

Replace /

Change

Clean

Grease /

Lubricate

Clutch
Friction plates
Throttle cable
Spark plug
Air cleaner element
Carburetor
Transmission oil
Piston and piston ring
Cylinder head, cyl. & exhaust valves
Muffler
Silencer packing
Small end bearing
Kick pedal and shift pedal
Exhaust pipe o'ring
Engine bearings check
Coolant
Radiator hoses, connections
Brake adjustment
Brake wear
Brake fluid level
Brake fluid
Brake master cyl. cup & dust seat

Each race

3 races

-

-

-

Each race

­3 races
3 races

Each race

­3 races

-

-

10 races

3 races

Each race

3 races
5 races
3 races

-

-

Each race

3 races*

Each race

-

-

Each race

­3 races*
3 races*

1 race*

10 races*

3 races*

-

-

10 races*

3 races*

1 race*
3 races*
5 races*
3 races*

-

-

Each race*

3 races*

-

-

If it's damaged

-

3 races
3 races*
3 races*

1 race*

10 races
10 races

-

3 races

10 races*

3 races*

1 race*
3 races*
5 races*
3 races*

Every 2 years
Every 2 years

-

-

­1 race
1 race

-

-

3 races

­1 race

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

Each race

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

3 races

1 race

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

The maintenance and adjustments outlined in this chapter are easily carried out and must be done in accordance with the Periodic Maintenance
Chart to keep the motorcycle in good running condition.

NOTA: (*) Inspect and do this operations only if it is necessary.

EC 2003 -76-

Part

MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENT

Check /

inspect

Adjust

Replace /

Change

Clean

Grease /

Lubricate

Brake caliper pisto seal & dust seal
Brake hose and pipe
Spoke tightness and rim runout
Lubricate drive chain
Drive chain
Drivechain wear
Chain slider
Front fork
Front fork oil
Nuts, bolt, fasteners
Fuel hose
Fuel system
Steering play
Rear sprocket
General lubrication
Steering bearing
Wheel bearing
Swing arm and uni-trak linkage pivots
Rear chock oil

-

-

1 race

-

1 race

-

5 races

1 race

­5 races
7 races

-

1 race
5 races
5 races

-

10 races

5 races

Every 2 years

-

-

1 race*

-

-

5 races

5 races*

If it's damaged

­5 depósitos*
7 depósitos*

-

­5 depósitos*

-

-

10 depósitos*

5 depósitos*

2 years*

Every 2 years
Every 4 years

1 race*

-

-

5 races

5 races*

If it's damaged

Each year

5 races*

7 races

10 races

-

5 races*

-

-

10 races*

5 races*
2 years*

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

If it's damaged

-

-

-

If it's necessary

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

1 race

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

5 races

10 races

-

5 races

-

The maintenance and adjustments outlined in this chapter are easily carried out and must be done in accordance with the Periodic Maintenance
Chart to keep the motorcycle in good running condition.

NOTA: (*) Inspect and do this operations only if it is necessary.

EC 2003 -77-

IGNITION TIMING

Because a capacitor discharge ignition (CDI) system is used on this
motorcycle, the ignition timing should never require adjustment
unless the magneto stator is incorrectly installed during engine
reassembly. However, if there is any doubt as to the timing, inspect
and adjust, if necessary, as follows:

- If the marks are not aligned, loosen the magneto stator screws
and turn the magneto stator.

- Tighten the screws securely.

- Install the magneto cover.

NOTE
The ignition timing can be adjusted for different power and to
suit the rider´s preference and ability.

Ignition Timing Adjustment

- Remove the magneto cover (A).

- Check to see if the center mark of the three marks on the magneto
stator (C) is aligned with the mark on the crankcase (B).

125 cc.

(A)

200/250/300 cc.

(C)

(B)

- Remove the magneto cover.

- Loosen the stator screws.

- Adjust the timing by shifting the stator position within the three
lines.

NOTE
For the best engine performance, it is very important to adjust
the ignition timing within the adjustable range just explained.

- Tighten the stator screws securely.

- Install the magneto cover.

- Test ride the motorcycle and readjust the ignition timing if necessary.

COOLING SYSTEM

Radiator Hoses

Check the radiator hoses for cracks or deterioration, and connections
for looseness in acordance with the Periodic Maintenance Chart.

Radiator

Check the radiator fins for obstruction by insects or mud. Clean off
any obstructions with a stream of lowpressure water.

EC 2003 -78-

Using high-pressure water, as from a car wash facility, could damage

CAUTION

the radiator fins and impair the radiator´s effectiveness.
Do not obstruct or deflect airflow through the radiator by installing
unauthorized accessories in front of the radiator.
Interference with the radiator airflow can lead to overheating and
consequent engine damage.

Coolant information

To protect the cooling system aluminum parts (engine and radiator)
from rust and corrosion, the use for corrosion and rust inhibitor
chemicals in the coolant is essential. If coolant containing corrosion
and rust inhibitor chemicals is not used, over a period of time, the
cooling system accumulates rust and scale in the water jacket and
radiator. This will clog coolant passages, and reduce the efficiency
of the cooling system.

CAUTION
Use of incorrect coolant solutions will cause severe engine and
cooling system damage.
Use coolant containing corrosion inhibitors made specifically for
aluminum engines and radiators in accordance with the instructions
of the manufacturer.

WARNING

Coolant chemicals are harmful to the human body. Follow coolant
manufacturer warnings and coolant handing instructions.

If the lowest ambient temperature encountered falls below the freezing
point of water, protect the cooling system against engine and radiator
freeze-up.

Use a permanent type of anti-freeze (soft water and ethylene glycol
plus corrossion and rust inhibitor chemicals for aluminium engines
and radiators) in the cooling system. For the coolant mixture ratio
under extreme conditions, choose the mixture ratio listed on the
container for the lowest ambient temperature.

CAUTION
Permantent types of antifreeze on the market have anticorrosion
and anti-rust properties. When it is diluted excessively, it loses its
antifreeze and anticorrosion properties. Dilute a permanent type of
antifreeze in accordance with the instructions of manufacturer.

Coolant

Coolant absorbs excessive heat from the engine and transfers it to
the air at the radiator. If the coolant level becomes low, the engine
overheats and may suffer severe damage. Check the coolant level
each day before riding the motorcycle. Replenish coolant if the level
is low.

WARNING

Soft or distilled water must be used with the inhibitor chemicals and

CAUTION

the antifreeze (see below for antifreeze) in the cooling system. If
hard water is used in the system, it causes scale accumulation in
the water passages, and considerably reduces the efficiency of the
cooling system.

Para evitar quemaduras, no saque el tapón del radiador o trate de
cambiar el líquido cuando el motor esté todavía caliente. Espere
hasta que se enfríe.

EC 2003 -79-

Coolant level

Recommended coolant

- Situate the motorcycle so that it is perpendicular to the ground.

- Remove the radiator (A) cap in two steps. First turn the cap
counterclockwise to the first stop and wait there for a few seconds.
Then push and turn it further in the same direction and remove the
cap.

(A)

NOTE

Check the level when the engine is cold.

- Check the coolant level in the radiator. The coolant level should
be to the bottom of the radiator filler neck. (see illustration).

- If the coolant level is low, add the correct amount of coolant through
the filler opening.

(1). Coolant level.
(2). Breather Hose.

Permanent type of antifreeze (soft water and ethylene glycol plus
corrosion and rust inhibitor chemicals for aluminum engines and
radiators.

A permanent type of antifreeze is installed in the cooling system
when shipped. It is colored green, contains a 50% solution of
ethylene glycol, and has a freezing point of -35º C. (-32º F )(USA).

Water and coolant mixture ratio
1:1 (Water 50%, coolant 50%).
Tatal amount: 1,1 L.

Coolant Change

The coolant should be changed periodically to ensure long engine
life.

- Wait for the engine to cool completely.

- Situate the motorcycle so that it is perpendicular to the ground.

- Remove the radiator cap.

- Place a container under the coolant drain plug, and drain the coolant
from the radiator and engine by removing the drain plug at the bottom
of the water pump cover. Immediately wipe or wash off any coolant
that spills on the frame, engine, or wheels.

NOTE

125 cc.

200 / 250 / 300 cc.

(A)

(A)

(B)

(B)

EC 2003 -80-

WARNING

Coolant on tires will make them slippery and can cause an accident
and injury.

- Visually inspect the old coolant. If whitish cotton-like wafts are
observed, aluminum parts in the cooling system are corroded. If the
coolant is brown, iron or steel parts are rusting. In either case, flush
the cooling system.

- Check the cooling system for damage, loose joints, or leaks.

- Install the water pump cover drain plug and cylinder drain plug with
the specified torques shown in the table. Always replace the gasket
with a new one, if it damaged.

Standard Spark Plug

NGK CR8 E o DENSO U24ESR-N 0.7-0.8 mm.

The spark plug should be taken out periodically to check its gap
and ceramic insulator. If the plug is oily or has carbon build up on
it, clean it (preferably with a (sandblaster) and then clean off any
abrasive particles. The plug may also be cleaned using a high flash­point solvent and a wire brush or other suitable tool. Measure the
gap with a wire-type thickness gauge, and adjust the gap, if incorrect,
by bending the outer electrode. If the spark plug electrodes are
corroded or damaged, or if insulator is cracked, replace the plug.

NOTE

Inspect every 30 hours and replace every 60 hours.

Drain plug tightening torque (look maintenance table)

Water Pump Cover Plug: 9 Nm.

- Fill the radiator up to the bottom of the radiator filler neck
with coolant, and install the radiator cap.

- Check the cooling system for leaks.

- Start the engine, warm up the engine throughly, then stop the
engine.

- Check the coolant level after the engine cools down. Add
coolant up to the bottom of the radiator filler neck.

SPARK PLUG

The standard spark plug is a shown in the table.
Spark plug should have a specified gap, and be tightened to 27 N­m. (20FT.LBS).

To find out whether the right temperature plug is being used, pull it
out and examine the ceramic insulator around the center electrode.
If the ceramic is light brown, the spark plug is correctly matched to
engine temperature. If the ceramic is burned whit, the plug should
be replaced with the next colder plug. If the ceramic is black, the
plug should be replaced with the next hotter plug.

NOTE
If the engine performance drops, replace the spark plug first to
regain performance.

TRANSMISSION

For the transmission and clutch to function properly, maintain the oil
level at the proper level. Change the oil periodically. Oil at an
insufficient level deteriorates and contaminates rapidly. This
accelerates wear and promotes premature failures.

EC 2003 -81-

Oil level

Transmission oil type

- Stand the motorcycle upright and level allow a few minutes for the
oil to settle.

(A)

- Observe the oil level
at the window (A) on
the lower right side of
the engine case.

- The maximum and minimum lever of oil is this window.

(B)

- If the lever is higher,
you have to empty the
leftover oil by the oil
drain plug (B).

- By another way, if the oil level is smaller, fill up opening the fill plug
(C). Use the same oil type than you had.

Viscosity: SAE 10W30.
Capacity: 1000 cc.

Oil Change

- The transmission oil should be changed periodically to assure long
engine life.

- Warm the engine (over 5 minutes) to suspend the sediment, liquify
the impurities, and faciclitate removal.

- Stop the engine, and place an oil pan beneath the engine.

- Remove the drain plug and position the vehicle so that it is
perpendicular to the ground to allow all the oil to drain out.

- Install the drain plug with its gasket, tightening it to20-Nm.

- Remove the oil filler opening plug of fresh transmission oil (C).
EC 200/ 250/ 300 remove with 900 cc and EC 125 with 650 cc.

- Check the oil level, after kicking the kick pedal 3 or 4 times.

- Install the oil filler opening plug.

200/250/300 cc.

(C)

(C)

125 cc.

EC 2003 -82-

AIR CLEANER

A clogged air cleaner restricts the engine´s air intake, increasing
fuel consumption, reducing engine power, and causing spark plug
fouling.

WARNING

A clogged air cleaner may allow dirt and dust to enter the carburetor
and stick the throttle open. This could cause an accident.

- Stuff a clean, lint-free towel into the carburetor so no dirt is allowed
to enter the carburetor.

CAUTION
Do not spin the filter on its cage. It is possible to tear or damage the
filter.

- Wipe out the inside of the air cleaner hoousing with a clean damp
towel.

A clogged air cleaner may allow dirt and dust to enter the engine
causing excessive wear and possible engine damage.

Inspect the element, without fail, before and after each racing or
practice session. Clean it if necessary.

Element Cleaning

Clean the element in a well-ventilated area, and take care that there
are no sparks or flame anywhere near the working area; this includes
any appliance with a pilot light. Do not use gasoline or a low flash­point solvent to clean the element. A fire or explosion coluld result.

CAUTION

WARNING

- Remove the filter
cover (A).

- Remove the wing
bolt (B) and pull out
the element (C).

(B)

(A)

(C)

- Take the element (B)
off the frame (A).

- Clean the element in a
bath of a filter cleaning
fluid using a soft bristle
brush.

- Squeeze it dry in a
clean towel. Do not
wring the element or
blow it dry; the element
can be damaged.

EC 2003 -83-

- Inspect the element for damage such as tears, hardening, or
shrinkage. If damaged, replace it or it will allow dirt into the carburetor.

- Apply grease to all connections and srew hole in the air cleaner
housing and intake tract.

- Install the element in
the machine (A), and
make sure the sealing
surface of the element
is seated properly.

- Install the seat.

THROTLLE CABLE

- Inspect the throttle grip for smooth operation in all steering positions.In
accordance with the Periodic Maintenance Chart, check and adjust
the throttle cable.
. Check that the throttle grip has 2-3 mm of play and turns smoothly.
. If the play is incorrect, loosen the locknut on the upper end of the
throttle cable, and turn the adjuster to obtain the correct amount of
play. Tighten the locknut.

(C) (A)(B)

- If the free play cannot beset by adjusting the upper cable adjuster,
pull the rubber boot off of the carburetor top. Make the necessary
free play adjustment at the lower cable adjuster, tighten the locknut,
and reinstall the rubber boot.

CARBURETOR

Idling Adjustment

Iding adjustment is carried out using the air screw (A) and idle
ajusting screw (B).

- First turn in the air screw until it seats lightly, and back it out 1 1/2
turns.

- After thoroughly warming up the engine, turn the idle adjusting
screw to obtain the desired idle speed. If no idle is preferred, turn
out the screw until the engine stops.

(B)

(A)

- Open and close the throttle a few times to make sure the idle speed
does not change. Readjust if necessary.

(A). Adjuster.
(B). Locknut.
(C). Throttle grip.

- With the engine idling, turn the handlebar to each side. If handlebar
movement changes the idle speed, the throttle cable may be
improperly adjusted or incorrectly routed, or it may be damaged. Be
sure to correct any of these conditions before riding.

EC 2003 -84-

WARNING

(D) (B)

(C) (A)

Operation with a damaged cable could result in an unsafe riding
condition.

CLUTCH

Proper clutch lever play between the clutch lever and the clutch
lever holder is 2-3 mm.

When there is too much lever play, first try adjusting the clutch lever.

Loosen the knurled locknut, turn the adjuster to obtain the proper
amount of lever play, and tighten the locknut.

EXHAUST SYSTEM

The muffler and silencer reduce exhaust noise and conduct the
exhaust gases back away from the rider.

If the muffler is badly damaged, dented, cracked or rusted, replace
it with a new one. Replace the silencer packing. If the exhaust noise
becomes too loud or the engine performance drops.

Silencer Packing Cange

- Remove the right side cover.

- Remove the silencer (B) mounting bolts (A) and pull the silencer
off toward the rear.

(A). Clutch lever.
(B). Knurled Locknut.
(C). Adjuster.
(D). Hydraulic fluid tank.

(A) (B)

Install the inner pipe

- Remove the inner pipe mounting rivots, and pull out the inner pipe.

- Pull off the old silencer packing, and install the new silencer packing.

- Install the inner pipe into the silencer.

- Install the silencer and right side cover.

EC 2003 -85-

(B)

(A)

(A). Rivots.
(B). Inner Pipe.

30-50 mm.

DRIVE CHAIN

The drive chain must be checked, adjusted, and lubricated in
accordance with the Periodic Maintenance table. If the chain becomes
badly worn or maladjusted either too loose or too tight the chain
could jump off the sprockets or break.

WARNING

A chain that breaks or jumps off the sprockets could snag on the
engine sprocket or lock the rear wheel, severely damaging the
motorcycle and causing it to go out of control.

Slack Inspection

The space between the chain and the swing arm at the rear of the
chain slider should be 30-50 mm.Rotate the rear wheel to find the
place where the chain is tightest (because it wears unevenly). Adjust
the drive chain if it has too much or too little slack.

EC 2003 -86-

In addition to checking the slack, rotate the rear wheel to inspect
the drive chain and sprockets for damaged rollers, loose pin and
links, unevenly or excessively worn teet, and damaged teeth.

Slack Adjustment

- Loosen the rear axle (A) nut (B) and both chain adjuster locknuts.

- Turn the nuts on the chain adjusting bolts evenly until the drive
chain has 30-50 mm. of space between the chain and the swing
arm. To keep the chain and wheel aligned, the notch on the left
chain adjuster should align with the same swing arm mark that the
on the right chain adjuster aligns with.

(C)

(B)

(A)

Wheel alignment can also be checked using the straightedge

NOTE

or string metod.

WARNING

Misalignment of the wheel will result in abnormal wear and may
result in an unsafe riding condition.

- Tighten the axle nut to 98 N-m. (70ft-lbs).

- Tighten both chain adjuster locknuts.

- Rotate the wheel, measure the chain slack again at the tightest
position, and readjust if necessary.

WARNING

If the axle nut is not securely tightened an unsafe riding condition
may result.

Drive chain, chain guide, chain slidder, and sprockets wear
inspection.

When the chain has worn so much that it is more than 2% longer
than when new, it is no longer safe for use and should be replaced.
Whenever the chain is replaced, inspect both the engine and rear
sprockets, and replace them if necessary. Worn sprockets will cause
a new chain to wear quickly.

master link clip must be installed with the closed end of the
«U» points in the direction of chain rotation.

(A). Clip.
(B). Direction of Chain Rotation.

Chain Guide Wear

Visually inspect the drive chain guide. If the guide is worn excessively
or damaged, replace it.

(A)

For maximum strech resistance and safety, a genuine part must

NOTE

be used for replacement.
To minimize any chance of the master link coming apart, the

(A). Chain Guide.

EC 2003 -87-

Cain Slider Wear

(B)

(A)

Visually inspect the upper and lower chain sliders.

(B)

(A)

Apply oil to the side of the rollers so that it will penetrate to the rollers
and bushings. Wipe off any excess oil.

(A). Apply oil.

HANDLEBAR

To suit various riding positions, the handlebar position can be adjusted
front to rear.

(A). Chain Slider.
(B). Seing Arm.

Sprocket Wear

Visually inspect the sprocket teeth. If they are worn or damaged,
replace the sprockets.

Lubrication

Lubrication is necessary after riding through rain or in the mud, or
any time that the chain appears dry. A heavy oil is preferred to a
lighter ol because it will stay on the chain longer and provide better
lubrication.

Handlebar position adjustment

Loosen the handlebar holder (A) nuts (B), turn about the handlebar
holder, and tighten the nuts securely.

EC 2003 -88-

Tighten the clamp bolts, front first and then the rear, to 25 Nm of
torque (18 ft.lbs).

If the handlebar
clamp is correctly
installed, there will
be an even gap at
the front and rear
after tightening.

(A)

(A).

BRAKES

Disc and disc pad wear is automatically compensated for and has
no effect on the brake lever or pedal action. So there are no parts
that require adjustment on the brakes except brake lever play and
brake pedal position

Front brake lever play

Adjust the front brake lever (A) to suit you. To adjust the brake lever
play, loosen the locknut (B) and turn the adjuster to either side. After
adjustment, tighten the locknut securely. Then check the brake for
good braking power and no brake drag.

(A)

Rear brake pedal position

When the brake pedal is in rest position, there should be a play of
10 mm. If not, adjust the pedal position.
Check the brake for good braking power and no brake drag.
To adjust the pedal play, loosen the locknut and turn the adjuster.
After adjustment, tighten the locknut securely.

(D)

(A)

(C)

(A). Rear brake pedal.
(B). 10 mm of play.
(C). Adjusting bolt.
(D). Locknut.

(B)

(B)

WARNING

If the brake lever or pedal feels mushy when it is applied, there might
be air in the brake lines or the brake may be defective. Since it is
dangerous to operate the motorcycle under such conditions, have
the brake checked inmediately.

EC 2003 -89-

Disc brake fluid

In accordance with the Periodic Maintenance Chart, inspect the
brake fluid level in the reservoir and change the brake fluid. The
brake fluid should also be changed if it becomes contaminated with
dirt or water.

Do not spill brake fluid onto any painted surface.

CAUTION

Do not use fluid from a container that has been left open or that has
been unsealed for a long time.
Check for fluid leakage around the fittings.
Check for brake hose damage.

Disc brake fluid: Use D.O.T.3 o D.O.T.4.

Fluid level inspection

The front (A) and rear (B) reservoirs must be kept more than half
full with brake fluid.If the amount of brake fluid is insufficient, add
brake fluid.

(A)

(B)

WARNING

Do not mix two brands of fluid. Change the brake fluid in the brake
line completely if the brake fluid must be refilled with a type other
than the brake fluid already in the reservoirs.

Brake wear inspection

In accordance with the Periodic Maintenance Chart, inspect the
brakes for wear. For each front and rear disc brake caliper. If the
thickness of either pad is less than 1 mm, replace both pads in the
caliper as a set Pad replacement should be done by an authorized
GAS GAS dealer.

Steering

The steering should always be kept adjusted so that the handlebar
will turn freely but have no excessive play.

EC 2003 -90-

To check the steering adjustment, using a stand under the frame,
raise the wheel off the ground. Push the handlebar lightly to either
side; if it continues moving under its own momentum, the steering
is not too light. Squatting in front of the motorcycle, grasp the lower
ends of the front fork at the axle, and push and pull the bottom end
of the front fork back and forth; if play is felt, the steering is too loose.

If the steering needs adjustment

- Tighten the steering stem head nut (B), and front fork upper or
lower clamp bolts to the specified torque.

Stem head nut: 44 N-m (4.5 Kg-m).
Fork clamp bolts: 22 N-m (2.25 Kg-m).

- Check the steering again, and readjust if necessary.

- Install the removed parts.

- Using the stand under the frame, stabilize the motorcycle.

- Place a stand or block under the engine to raise the front wheel
off the ground.

- Remove the handlebar (A).

(A)

(C)

(D)

- Loosen the front fork upper clamp bolts, and remove the steering
head nut and washer, and take off the steering stem head (B).

- Turn the steering stem locknut with the stem nut wrench to obtain
the proper adjustment (C).

- Install the stem head (D).

(B)

STEERING BLOCADE

This mecanism (A) allows us to blokade the steering. Is placed on
pipe steering.

You have to turn right the handlebar, pull in the key, turn left the key,
push, turn right and pull out the key.

(A)

(A). Steering blocade.

EC 2003 -91-

Never forget the key in the lock. If you turn left the steering with the

CAUTION

key in, it will be damaged.

FRONT FORK

The front fork should always be adjusted for the rider´s weight and
track conditions by using one or more of the following methods.

- Air pressure: Air pressure acts as a progressive spring and affects
the entire range of fork travel. The air pressure in the fork increases
as the fork heats up, so the fork action on your GAS GAS will get
stiffer as the race progresses. Because of this, we don´t recommend
using air pressure for additional springing. Your GAS GAS forks are
designed to work without adding any air.

- Rebound and compression dampening adjustment: This adjustment
affects how quickly the rebound. The fork rebound dampening
adjuster has 16 clicks. The seated position (fully clockwise until the
adjuster stops) is full hard. From the point 6 - 8 clicks counterclockwise
is the standar setting, and 16 clicks counterclockwise is full soft.

- Using the stand under the frame, stabilize the motorcycle.

- Place a stand or block under the engine so that the front wheel is
raised off the ground.

- Remove the screws at the top of the front fork top bolts to let the
air pressure equalize. Then replace them.

(A)

(A). Screw air purge.

Ajustar extensión

Rebound Dampening Adjustment

- Oil level adjustment: The effects of higher or lower fork oil level
are only felt during the final 100 mm of fork travel. A higher oil level
will make the fork rebound more slowly.

- Fork springs: Optional springs are available that are softer and
stiffer than standard.

Air Pressure

The standard air pressure in the front fork legs is atmospheric
pressure. The air pressure in the fork legs increases as operation
progresses.

- To adjust turn the knob located at the top of the fork.

- Adjust to rider preferance.

(A)

(A). Adjuster knobs.

EC 2003 -92-

The left and right fork tubes must bealigned (level) at the top clamps.

CAUTION

(see the illustration).

Compression Dampening Adjustment

- To adjust, turn the knob located at the top of the fork. Adjust to
rider preferance.

Oil level Adjustment

- Using the stand under the frame, stabilize the motorcycle.

- Place a stand or block under the engine so that the front wheel is
raised off the ground.

- Remove the front fender and front disc cover.

- Unbolt the brake hose holder mounting bolts.

- Remove the front fork protectors.

- Remove the handlebar clamp bolts and remove the handlebar.

- Remove the top clamps of the forklegs.

- Let the forks completely compress.

- Raise the fork springs from the fork.

- Grasp the top casps and loosen the clck nuts on the caps.

- Remove the caps from the fork legs.

- Remove the fork springs.

- Put the oil level gauge on the top of the fork tube, and measure
the distance from the top of the fork tube to the oil level.

Stand oil level

Marzocchi: 110 mm.

WP: 120 mm.

Öhlins: 110 mm.

(A). Draining Oil.
(B). Filling oil.

Adjust the oil level as required within the adjustable range using the
following oil:

Recomended oil

EC 2003 -93-

MARZOCCHI SAE 7´5

WP. SAE 5

ÖHLINS 5 - 7'5

(A). Push Rod

(1). Spring
(2). Locknut
(3). Suspension cap
(4). Cap Wrench
(5). Lock nut wrench

Fork Springs

Different fork springs are available to achieve suitable front fork
action in accordance with the rider´s weight and track conditions.

- Harder springs make the fork stiffer, and rebound action quicker.

- Softer sprigs make the fork softer, and rebound action slower.

- Pull up the push rod (A) slowly.

- At this time, the fork oil comes out of the push rod hole, let it
overflow until it stops.

- Put the fork spring (1) into the fork tube.

- Pull down the fork spring and insert the spring holder (5) (special
tool) under the push rod nut or piston holder.

- Install the top cap bolt (3) on the top of the fork tube and tighten
it to 29 N-m. (21 ft.lbs).

- Repeat on other fork.

- Install removed parts.

Fork Clamp Position Adjustment

Steering qualities are greatly affected by the fork clamp position (the
amount of the outer tube projecting above the steering stem head).
When the fork tube height is smaller, the front end becomes lighter
due to change in weight bias. Also, it tends to understeer in turns
at «whash out». When the height is greater, the results are opposite.Be
sure the front tire doesn´t rub the fender when the fork tubes compress
fully. Make this adjustment in 5mm increments.

CAUTION

The outer tubes, both right and left, should be adjusted evenly.

EC 2003 -94-

(1)

REAR SUSPENSION

Shock Rebound Dampening Adjustment
Rear shock Absorber

o adjust shock rebound dampening, turn the rebound dampening
adjuster on the rear shock absorber lower end until you feel a click.

The total number of adjustments is: 60 ¨CLICKS¨.
The standard setting is: 25 ¨CLICKS¨.

(Counterclockwise from fully closed).

(1). Fork tube height

The rear suspension system of this motorcycle is single shock. It
consist of a rear shock absorber, swing arm, tie rods and rocker
arm.

In general the operating characteristics of the single shock are similar
to the front fork. But, in achieving progressive spring characteristics
a linkage system is used.

To suit various riding conditions, the spring preload of the shock
absorber can be adjusted or the spring can be replaced with an
optional one. Also the dampening force can be adjusted easily so
changing oil viscosity is unnecessary.

(A). Rebound dampening adjuster.

Shock compression dampening adjustment

To adjust schock compression dampening, turn the adjuster screw
on the gas reservoir until you feel a (click).

The total number of adjustments is: 60 ¨CLICKS¨.
The standard setting is: 30 ¨CLICKS¨.

(Counterclockwise from fully closed).

EC 2003 -95-

(A)

Suspension spring

The standard spring is a 4.0.
The standard spring preload length is 258 mm.

(A). Compression dampening adjuster

Adjusting the spring

- Remove the seat, right and left side number plates.

- Loosen the air cleaner duct clamp screw.

- Remove the silencer.

- Remove the rear subframe with the air cleaner box.

(B)

(A). Rear subframe.
(B). Air cleaner box.

(A)

EC 2003 -96-

(A)

(C)
(B)

(A). Adjusting
(B). Spring
(C). Lock nut (ring)

- Tighten the locknut (ring) securely.

- After adjustment, move the spring up and down to make sure that
the spring is seated.

- Install the parts removed.

Rear Shock Absorber Spring Replacement

In addigtion to the standard spring, harder and softer springs are
available. If the standard spring is improper for your purpose, select
a proper one according to the rider´s weight or course conditions.

- Using the harder spring:The spring rate is higher.

- Using the softer spring:The spring rate is lower.

NOTE

Look at page 106.

WARINING

Improper removal of the spring from the rear shock absorber body
may cause the spring and associated parts to be ejected at high
velocity. Always wear eye and face protection. Removal and installation
of spring should be performed by an person or company.

WHEELS

Tires

- Tire pressure affects traction, handling, and tire life.

- Adjust the tire pressure to suit track conditions and rider preference,
but do not stray too far from the recommended pressure.

NOTE

Tire pressure should be checked when the tires are cold before
you ride.

Track condition

- When the track is wet, muddy, sandy or slippery, reduce the tire
pressure.

- When the track is pebbly or hard, increase the tire pressure.

(A). Llave tensador radios

(A). Spoke Wrench.

Tire bead lock (clamp)

There is a lock (clamp) on the front and rear wheels. The bead lock
(clamp) prevents the tire and tube from slipping on the rim and
damaging the valve stem. Valve stem damage may cause the tube
to leak, necessitating tube replacement. In order that the tire and
tube remain fixed in position on the rim, inspect the bead lock (clamp)
before riding and tighten it if necessary. Tighten the valve stem nut
finger tight only.

Spokes and Rim

The spokes on both wheels must all be tightened securely and evenly
and not be allowed to loosen. Unevenly tightened or loose spokes
will cause the rim to warp, hasten nipple and overall spoke fatigue,
and may result in spoke breakage.

The weld joint area of the rim may show excessive runout.

NOTE

Disregard this when measuring runout.

EC 2003 -97-

CLEANING

3- After washing:

1- Preparation for washing

Before washing, precautions must be taken to keep water off the
following places:

Rear opening of: The silencer cover with a plastic bag secured
with rubber bands

Clutch and brake levers, hand grips, engine stop button: Cover
with plastic bags.

Air cleaner intake: Close up the opening with tape or
stuff in rags.

2- Where to be careful

Avoid spraying water with any great force near the following
places:

- Disc brake master cylinders and calipers.

- Under the fuel tank : If water gets into the ignition coil or into the
spark plug cap, the spark will jump through the water and be grounded
out. When this happens, the motorcycle will not start and the affected
parts must be wiped dry.

- Front and rear hubs.

- Steering pivots (Steering stem head pipe).

- Suspension linkage system pivots.

- Swing arm pivot.

- Remove the plastic bags, and clean the air cleaner intake.

- Lubricate the points listed in the lubrication section.

- Start the engine and run for 5 minutes.

- Dry the brakes before operating the motorcycle.

WARNING

Never wax or lubricate the brake disc. Loss of braking and an accident
could result. Clean the disc with an oil-less solvent such as
trichloroethylene or acetone.

EC 2003 -98-

BOLT AND NUT TIGHTENING

Every day before riding, check without fail the tighteness of the bolts and nuts described here. Also, check to see whether or not each cotter pin
is in place and in good condition.

1 1

10911 12 1613 14 15 17 18 26

1- Bead lock nut
2- Front fork clamp bolts
3- Handlebar mounting bolt
4- Clutch lever support bolt
5- Cylinder head bolts
6- Spark plug
7- Cylinder head bolts
8- Air cleaner box bolts
9- Disc plate screws

3,4

2

5,6,7

8

10-Spokes
11-Front axle clamps nuts
12-Brake hose clamp nuts
13-Radiator mounting bolts
14-Engine mounting nuts
15-Shift pedal bolt
16-Rear subframe mounting bolts
17-Chain guide bolts
18-Chain adjuster locknuts

19 21 22 23,24,25

272028,29 30,31,32

19-Seat mounting bolt
20-Subframe bolts
21-Rear chock absorber bolts
22-Exhaust mounting bolts and nut
23-Fork clampbots
24-Steering shaft nut
25-Rear brake mounting bolt
26-Rear axle nut
27-Connecting rod mounting bolt

33

28-Rear brake pedal bolt
29-Rocker arm mounting bolt
30-Swingarm shaft nut
31-Kick pedal bolt
32-Kick pedal nut
33-Brake hose mounting bolts

EC 2003 -99-

Torque Table

Tighten all bolts and nuts to the proper torque using an accurate torque wrench. A bolt or nut if insufficiently tightened may become damaged or
fall out, possibly resulting in damage to the motorcycle and injury to the rider.

PART NAME

Cylinder head bolts

E

Cylinder base nuts

N

Engine drain plug

G

Kick pedal bolt
Kick pedal nut

I

Shift pedal bolt

N

Spark plug

E

Water pump cover drain plug
Caliper mounting bolts
Disc plate mounting screws
Engine mounting bolts
Front axle
Trottle clamp bolts

C

Tripple clamp bolts

H

Steering shaft nut

A

Rear axle nut
Brake pedal nut

S

Front fork top bolts

S

Handlebar clamp bolts

I

Steering shaft nut

S

Spokes
Axle clamp nuts
Swingarm pivot bolt
Rear tie rod bolts

N-m / FT.LBS.

25/ 18
34/ 25
20/ 15
20/ 15
25/ 18

10/ 7

27/ 20

9/ 6,6

25/ 18

10/ 7

36/ 26,5

51/ 38

6/ 4
29/ 21
98/ 72
98/ 72

9/ 6,6
26/ 19
39/ 28
29/ 21

1,5/ 1,1

4/ 3
81/ 60
81/ 60

Kg-m / IN.LBS.

2.5/ 221

3.5/ 300

2.0/ 177

2.0/ 177

2.5/ 221

1.0/ 88

2.8/ 239

0.9/ 80

2.5/ 221

1.0/ 88

3.6/ 318

5.1/ 451

0.6/ 53

3.0/ 256

10.0/ 88

10.0/ 88

0.9/ 80

2.7/ 230

4.0/ 345

3.0/ 256

0.15/ 13

4.5/ 35

8.3/ 716

8.3/ 716

EC 2003 -

100

-

LUBRICATION

Lubricate the points shown here, with either motor oil or regular
grease, in accordance with the Periodic Maintenance Chart or
whenever the vehicle has been operated under wet or rainy conditions,
and especially after using a high pressure spray washer. Before
lubricating each part, clean off any rusty spots with rust remover and
wipe off any grease, oil, dirt, or grime.

General lubrication

- Clutch lever (A).

- Front brake lever (B).

- Rear brake pedal (C).

- Rear brake rod joints (D).

- Shift pedal (E).

(D) (C)

(A) (B)

EC 2003 -

(D)

Use an aerosol cable lubricant with a pressure luber:

Apply grease to the
following point
throttle inner
cable upper ends.

-

101

Chain lubrication

Lubricate the chain after drive over wet places or when the chain
looks dry. It's better a high viscosity oil than a small viscosity oil
because it will stay a long time in chain.

(A)

(A)

TUNING

1. CARBURETOR TUNING

Tuning a carburetor is not the mysterious science many racers belive
it to be. One needs only to establish a basic knowledge of the
identification and function of carb components as well as how the
work together to do the job well.
Change due to temperature:

The main jet should be increased or decreased one to five sizes

NOTE

and tested until the engine gives maximum power.

Main jet

The number of the main jet, stamped on the bottom or side of the
jet, indicates the relative size of the hole in the jet which meaters
fuel.

(A). To grease

(A). Main jet.

Condition mixture setting change

Cold air lean rich
Warm air rich lean
Dry air lean rich
Low altitude standard standard
High altitude rich lean

EC 2003 -

WARNING

Gasoline is extremely flammable and can be explosive under certain
conditions. Always stop the engine and do not smoke. Make suure
the area is well ventilated and free from any source of flame or
sparks; this includes any appliance with a pilot light.

-

102

Slow Jet (piltot jet) and air screw

Jet needle

The slow jet and air srew controls the mixture in the closed to 1/8
throttle range, but has little effect on up to full throttle. To adjust the
mixture in this range, the air screw can be turned to change the air
flow through the circuit, or the slow jet can be changed to provide
more or less fuel. Start by turning the air screw to provide more or
less fuel. Screwing it in richens the mixture. Air screw (A) specs
indicate the turns out from a lightly seated position. Make changes
in 1/2 turn increments. If turning the srew between one and two­and-a-half turns doesn´t provide the desired results, change the
slow jet (B).

(B)

The jet needle and jet needle hole together have their greatest effect
in the 1/4 to 3/4 throttle range. The needle moves in and out of the
jet needle hole; since the needle is tapered, its position in the jet
determines the amount of fuel allowed through. There are five
grooves in the top of the needle in which a circlip fits. This clip
locates the needle in the throttle valve and, therefore, determines
its position relative to the jet needle hole.

Clip position

Needle size
number

Working area

Test runs

- Warm up the engine with the carburetor at the standard settings,
and run two or three laps of the course while examining the operating
condition of the spark plug.

- Test-ride the bike by varying the throttle opening.

Symptoms of improper settings

If your machine exhibits one or more of the symptoms listed below,
it may need carb tuning changes.
Before attempting any changes, however, make sure that everything
else is in good shape and tuned properly.

EC 2003 -

103

-

Check the condition of the spark plug, make sure the ingnition timing
is correct, service the air cleaner element, decarbonize the muffler
If you machine has run properly at a certain track in the past and
then starts running poorly with the same carb settings, the problem
is almost certain to be elsewhere; changing the carb settings in such
a case would probably be a waste of time.

Condition of spark plug

Correct
Too lean

Too rich

Insulator dry and light tan color

Insulator is whitish

Insulator is wet, black and
sooty

Replace the main jet with one
step larger
Replace the main jet wit one
step smaller

Correction factors:

(For changes in altitude and temperature).

1. Find your correction factor to adjust the carburetor.

EXAMPLE: 1000 meters (3200 ft) altitude with an air temperature
of 35º C (95ºF). The correction factor is 0.94 (see dotted line for the
example.

2. Using your correction factor, select the correct slow jet and main
jet.

Example: For a correction factor of 0.94, multiply the jet size by that
number.

- Set the carburetor so that the engine delivers satisfactory power
at any throttle opening.

- If the air-fuel mixture is too lean, the engine tends to overheat and
may seize up; on the other hand, if it is too rich, the spark plug easily
gets wet, thus causing richness, the spark plug easily gets wet, thus
causing misfires. The proper strength of the mixture varies depending
on atmospheric conditions (pressure, humidity, and temperature).
Taking these conditions into consideration, adjust the carburetor
settings properly

Standard Settings

FUEL

Throttle valve cutaway
Slow jet
Jet needle
Main Jet

UNLEADED

7

38

N1EC

185

LEADED

7

35

N1ED

160

EC 2003 -

Slow jet: # 50 x 0.94 = #47
Chiclé principal: # 162 x 0.94 = # 1

3. Find your correction factor on the Jet Needle/Air Screw chart and
change the jet needle clip position and air screw opening as indicated.

Example: For correction factor of 0.94, raise the needle clip one
position and turn out the air screw one extra turn.

- Jet needle clip setting: 3rd groove from top minus 1 - 2nd groove.

- Air screw opening: 1 1/2 + 1 turn = 2 1/2 turns out.

NOTE

For the following recommendations to be accurate, you must
use the standard settings as a base-line. Also don´t change any
of the settings until you´ve determined what changes are
necessary. All specifications are based on the use of the
specified fuel and oil.

-

104

T
E

M

P
E

R

A

T
U
R

E

(ºC)
(ºF)

40

(104)

30

(86)

20

(68)

10

(50)

0

(32)

3000 m (9600 ft)

2000 m (6400 ft)

1000 m (3200 ft)

Sea Level

ALTITUDE

CORRECTION
FACTORS

JET NEEDLE
SETTING

AIR SCREW
OPENING

-10

(14)

0.86 0.88 0.90 0.92 0.94 0.96 0.98 1.00 1.02 1.04 1.06

CORRECTION FACTOR

JET NEEDLE/ AIR SCREW CHART

1,06 or ABOVE

LOWER CLIP
ONE POSITION

ONE TURN IN

1,06 - 1,02

SAME

1/2 TURN IN

EC 2003 -

1,02 - 0,98

SAME

SAME

-

105

0,98 - 0,94

SAME

1/2 TURN OUT

0,94 or BELOW

RAISE CLIP ONE
POSITION

ONE TURN OUT
POSITION

2. SUSPENSION TUNING

Front fork

No area of machine adjustment is more critical than proper suspension
tuning. An improperly tuned suspension will keep even the best rider
from attaining the full benefit of his machine´s ability. Match the
suspension to the rider and the course conditions.

- If the machine is new, break-in the suspension with at least one
hour of riding before making any setting evaluations or changes.

- The three major factors which must be considered in suspension
tuning are Rider weight, rider hability, and track conditions. Additional
influences includE the rider´s style and positioning on the machine.

- If you have a problem, test by changing your riding posture or
position so that the cause of the problem can be deduced.

- It is a wise practice to adjust suspension settings to suit the rider´s
strong points. If you are fast through the corners, adjust the suspension
to allow fast cornering.

- Make setting changes in small increments; a little bit goes a long
way, and it is very easy to overadjust a setting.

- The front and rear suspension should be balanced; when one is
changed, the other might need to be changed similarly.

- When evaluating suspension performance the rider must make
every effort to ride consistently and recognize the effects of his input;
such things as changes in rider position and increasing fatigue may
lead to incorrect judgments about neceessary setting adjustments.

- When the proper settings have been determined for a particular
track, they should be written down for reference when returning to
that track.

The fork oil level in the fork tube is adjustable. A change in the fork
oil level will not affect the spring force much at the top of fork travel,
but it will have a great effect at the bottom:

- When the oil level is raised:
The air spring effect becomes more progressive, and the front fork
action feels ¨harder¨in the later stage of travel, near the bottom.

- When the oil level is lowered:
The aire spring is less progressive, and the front fork does not
become as ¨hard¨ in the later stage of travel.

- Changing the fork oil level works effectively at the end of fork travel.
If fork bottoming is experienced, raise fork fork oil level in 10 mm
increments. This will change the secondary spring rate.

Oil level adjustment

Adjust the front fork oil level (see the Oil Level Adjustment of the
Front Fork section in the Maintenance and adjustment chapter).

Increase level

Standard oil
level

Decrease level

Weight

Later stage

Fork stroke

of travel

EC 2003 -

106

-

Troubleshooting Improper Settings

5. Rebound or compression damping adjusting incorrect.

Listed below are some symptoms of improper suspension settings
and the most likely means of correcting them.

The proper settings can be achieved by applying the information
in this chapter in a scientific, methodical manner; this does not mean,
however, that you must be a scientist or trained technician to succeed.
Simply take time a think about the changes you believe necessary,
check them against the symptoms and cures described here, make
the changes in small increments, and take notes on the changes
and their effects.

Simptoms of the Front Forks
Too hard

- The front forks are too stiff

1. Rebound or compression damping adjustment incorrect.

2. The springs are too strong.

3. Too much oil.

4. Too heavy oil.

- The front forks stiffens up the end of stroke

1. The fork oil level is too high.

- The front forks operate but ride is too hard

1. Oil too heavy.

2. Worn out fork oil.

Too soft

- The fron fork dive excessively during braking and deceleration

1. Fork oil level is low.

2. Springs are too soft.

3. Oil too light.

4. Fork oil is worn out.

Symptoms of the rear shok:
Too hard

- The suspension is too stiff

1. Compression damping is too high.

2. Spring is too hard.

Too soft

- On landing after a big jump, bottoming occurs (normally O.K.).

1. Spring preload is too soft or compression damping is too soft.

2. Spring is too soft.

3. Shock oil is worn.

Determining the Proper Settings:

- Standard Settings

From the factory, the machine is set up for an intermediate-weight
rider possessing intermediate riding ability. Hence, if the actual rider
weight is considerably more or less than this, or if his riding experience
and ability are much greater or lesser than the intermediate made
to put the suspension "in the ballpark".

- Readjustment of the suspension

Smooth Softer spring
Rough Harder spring

EC 2003 -

107

-

Riding experience

Front and rear compability:

Beginner Softer: spring with more rebound damping.
Experienced: Harder spring.

Rider's weight

Heavy: Harder spring.
Light: Softer spring.

Type of course

- Many corners:
Lower the front end slightly (increase the fork tube height 5mm).This
quickes steering and turning ability.

- Fast course with many jumps:
Raise the fornt end slightly (decrease the front tube height 5 mm).

- Deep whoops, or sandy ground:
Raise the front end slightly to gain stability.

fter making such preliminary adjustments, begin the actual on-track
testing and evaluation.

CAUTION
1- Always make changes in small increments.
2-Make sure the rider is consistent in this evaluation of improper
suspension performance.
3- A change in the front suspension might require a change in the
rear, and vise versa.

Use this procedure to determine if the suspension is balanced
reasonably well: Hold the bike upright (retract the side stand). While
standing next to the machine, lightly pull on the front brake, place
one foot on the footpeg closest to you, and push down hard. If the
bike maintains its level attitude as the suspension is compressed,
the spring rates are well balanced. Sit astride the bike and take a
riding posture. Next check to see that the bike is in a horitzontal
position. If one end drops noticeably more than the other, the front
and rear are not compatible and must be readjusted to achieve a
better balance.
This is one of the most effective adjustment procedures but suspension
settings will vary depending on the conditions at the track and the
rider´s preferences.

Front end seaching during down hill or during acceleration out
of corner:
Front fork is too soft.

1. Increase the compression damping or rebound damping.

2. Increase the oil level 10 mm.

3. Use alternate harder sping, or increase spring preload.

Front end ¨knifes¨or oversteers in turns: (front end tends to
turn inward):
Front fork is too soft.

1. Increase the compression damping or rebound damping.

2. Increase the oil level 10 mm.

Front end pushes or ¨washes out¨in turns:

1. Decrease the compression damping or rebound damping.

2. Release the air at the fork tubes.

3. Decrease oil level 10-20 mm.

4. Use softer spring.

EC 2003 -

108

-

Front fork doesn´t respond to small bumps in sweeping turns:

- Front Fork is too hard:

1. Decrease the compression damping or rebound damping.

2. Decrease oil level 10 mm.

3. Use softer duty spring.

Rear end ¨kicks¨when braking over bumps:
The shock probably has too little rebound damping.

- Increase the rebound damping.

Adjustment depending on bottoming condition:(rear shock
absorber).

- Bottoms at low speed.

- Increase spring preload until maximum preload is achieved.

- Bottom after successive 3 or 4 successive jumps.

- Decrease rebound damping.

NOTE

The rear shock on this machine may mislead some riders.

Rear tire won´t "hook up" out of corners:
(A lack of traction coming out of turns)

- The shock may be too stiff:

1. Decrease the rear shock spring preload.

2. Decrease the compression damping.

3. Use softer spring (In case of a lightweight rider).

Front and rear of the bike bottom off high speed jumps:
(If harsh bottoming occurs once or twice per lap of the race)
. Front and rear suspension system are too soft.

1. Delantera: Increase oil lever and/or use harder spring.

2. Rear: Increase spring preload and/or increase compression
damping or use harder spring.

NOTE

After any adjustment, check front and rear compatibility.

EC 2003 -

a) The rear shock bottoms when the spring and damping are
overcome by the total weight of the machine and rider (due to full
stroke).

b) A bottoming sensation (even through the machine is not bottoming)
may actually be the inability of rider and machine weight to overcome
an overly stiff spring or excessive damping.

Observe the rear end off jumps; if it doesn´t approach bottoming,
try lowering the sping preload and damping.

Gearing

Preconditions:

Course condition

Fast course
Many courves or hills
Sandy or soft groud

- Si la parte recta de la "crono" es larga, el desarrollo puede alargarse
por lo tanto la velocidad aumenta.

-

109

Rear sprocket

Small
Large

- If the straight portion of a course is longer, the secondary reduction
ratio should be reduced so that the machine speed can be increased.

- When the course has many corners or uphills or is wet, the
secondary reduction rario should be increased so that gear shifting
is possible with smooth acceleration.

- Actually, the speed must be changed depending on the ground
condition on the day of race and therefore, be sure to run through
the racing circuit prior to a race and set the machine suitable for the
entire course.

3. The engine works hardest in muddy conditions and the radiator
can become clogged with mud. Take care not to overheat the engine
in these conditions. The engine also works very hard when ridden
in deep sand.

4. In muddy or sandy conditions adjust the chain looser than in other
conditions as the chain and sprockets will pack with mud/sand and
reduce chain slack.

5. Check chain and sprocket wear frequently when riding in mud or
sand since wear is increased in these conditions.

- If the straight portion of a course on which the machine can be run
at maximum speed is longer, the machine should be set so that the
maximum machine speed can be developed toward the end of the
straight course, but care should be taken not to over-rev the engine.

- It is difficult to set the machine to be best suited for all portions of
the circuit. Therefore, determine which circuit portions will have the
greatest effect on lap time. Set the machine for these portions.
Confirm your settings by recording lap times after each change. In
this way the machine will deliver best performance for the entire
circuit.

Special Care According to Track Conditions.

1. In dry, dusty conditions (such as volcanic ash or fine powdery
dust) special care must be given to keep the air cleaner element
clean.

2. When riding on wet heavy clay the mud adheres to the tires and
other parts of the vehicle. The mud can add significantly to the weight
of the vehicle and therefore reduce performance. Take care to remove
built-up mud from the tires and chassis after each ride, before drying
occurs.

EC 2003 -

6. In dusty conditions as the air cleaner collects dust, the engine
runs richer. Therefore it may be advisable to run slightly leaner jetting
(main jet) in very dusty conditions.

SPARE PARTS
Look at part list.

-

110

PREPARATION FOR COMPETITION

(1). Check:

1. Front axle shaft and nut, or axle clamp nut tightness

2. Front fork clamp bolt tightness

3. Handlebar clamp bolt tightness

4. Throttle grip screw tightness

5. Throttle grip operation

6. Front and rear brake hose installation

7. Front and rear brake fluid level

8. Front and rear brake disc and caliper installation

9. Front and rear brake function

10. Fuel tank installation

11. Shift pedal bolt tightness

12. Engine mounting bolt tightness

13. Engine sprocket installation

14. Brake pedal bolt tightness

15. Transmission oil level

16. Carburetor clamp screw tightness

17. Carburetor top cap tightness

18. Linkage tie rod mounting bolt tightness

19. Linkage rocker arm mounting bolt tightness

20. Rear shock absorber bolt tightness

21. Swing arm pivot shaft nut tightness

22. Rear axle shaft nut tightness

23. Rear sprocket bolts or nuts tightness

24. Rear brake pedal operation

25. Seat installation

26. Front and rear wheel sproke tightness

27. Front and rear tire air pressure

28. Drive chain slack

29. Coolant level

(2). After first race maintenance:

1. Air cleaner element

2. Drive chain slack

3. Rear sprocket nuts

4. Sprockets

5. Front and rear tire air pressure

6. Front and rear axle shaft nuts

7. Pivot shaft nut

8. Muffler, silencer bolts or nuts

9. Front, rear fender mounting bolts or nuts

10. Fuel tank, seat mounting bolts or nuts

11. Front and rear brakes

12. Steering play

13. Fuel tank fill

14. Coolant level check

(3) Maintenance notice for after riding on dusty course:

If dirt or dust gets through into the engine, the crankshaft big end
will wear excessively. After riding, inspect the crankshaft big end. If
the crankshaft big end is worn past the service limit, replace the
crankshaft big end with a new one.

(4) Maintenance notice for after riding in rain on muddy course:

1. Apply grease to swing arm pivot and rear suspension system

2. Inspect the drive chain and rear sprocket wear

3. Clean the air cleaner element

4. Check the cylinder and crankshaft big end bearing

5. Grease the throttle grip and cable

EC 2003 -

111

-

STORAGE

GAS GAS SPEEDO INSTRUCTIONS

When the motorcycle is to be stored for any lenght of time, it should
be prepared for storage as follows:

- Clean the entire vehicle thoroughly.

- Run the engine for about five minutes to warm the oil shut it off
and drain the transmission oil.

- Put in fresh trransmission oil.

- Empty the fuel from the fuel tank, and empty the carburetor float
bowl. (If left in for a long time, the fuel will deteriorate).

- Remove the spark plug and put several drops of SAE 30 oil into
the cylinder. Kick the engine over slowly a few times to coat the
cylinder wall with oil, and install the plug.

- Lubricate the drive chain and all the cables.

- Spray oil on all unpainted metal surfaces to prevent rusting. Avoid
getting oil on rubber parts or in the brakes.

- Tie a plastic bag over the exhaust pipe to prevent moisture from
entering.

- Set the motorcycle on a box or stand so that both wheels are
raised off the ground. (If this cannot be done, put boards under the
front and rear wheels to keep dampness away from the tire rubber).

- Put a cover over the motorcycle to keep dust and dirt from collecting
on it.

To put the motorcycle back into use after storage.

- Remove plastic bag from exhaust.

- Make sure the spark plug is tight.

- Fill the fuel tank with fuel.

- Check all the points listed in the Daily Pre-ride Inspection Section.

- Perform the General lubrication procedure.

The top button is the reset button.
The bottom button is the mode button.

Reset
Mode

The initial display is the clock.(time) if you press mode (btm. button)
the display goes:

1. Speedometer.

2. Speed (Km or miles).

3. Total distance in kmh or miles (this has a memory even if battery
disconnected).

4. Trip distance.

00:00

Speedometer

00:00

0

Speed

EC 2003 -

112

-

met -- for km/h
mil --- for mp/h

0000

Total distance

To change the time:

- Press mode until time display is shown.

- Press mode again keeping the button pressed the hour will display
only add the hours by pressing the reset (top) button.

- Press mode again to adjust the minutes in the same way.

- Press mode again and the time is now set.

(when you have set the time the seconds automatically start from
zero )

Trip distance:

- From time display press mode 3 times. (l- 0) to zero the trip , keep
the reset button pressed until it zeros.

To change to kilometers per hour or miles per hour:

- Disconnect the battery. (the total distance will be saved).

- Re-connect the battery whilst holding down either button and it will
read either;

0.0

Trip distance

- The white plastic block connector on the speedo is for the display
backlight.

- The red wire is positve.

- The black wire is negative.

- Warning; your speedo is set for the diameter of your front wheel

enduro 21"

supermoto 17"

If you get the display to read "a 00" then you are in the rolling radius
changing mode. you can "trim" the speed to run fast or slow.
It ranges from "a-25" to "a 25".

NOTE

Standard setting is "a 00", we recommend you keep it at that.

EC 2003 -

113

-

TROUBLESHOOTING

This is not an exhaustive list, giving every possible cause for each problem listed. It is meant simply as a rough guide to assist the

TROUBLE

Engine doesn't crank

1

Engine cranks but doesn't start

2

Engine start but stops few

3

seconds ago.

Engine gets to hot

4

Engine flooded

5

troubleshooting for some of the more common difficulties.

CAUSE REMEDY

- Crankshaft seizure.

- Cylinder-piston, connecting rod big end
seizure.

- Transmission set seizure.

- The motorcycle has been out of operation
for a longer period of time. Therefore old
fuel has accumulated in the float chamber.

- Scooty or wet spark plug.

- Flooded engine.

- Fuel/ air mixture incorrect.

- Incorrect air supply.

- There isn't fuel.

- Insufficient cooling liquid.

- Radiators very dirty.

- Spark plug dirty, or maladjusted.

- Spark plug cap or high tension wiring
trouble.

NOTE

- Go to specialized garage.

- Go to specialized garage.

- Go to specialized garage.

- Is recomended to drain the old fuel from the float chamber.

- Clean and dry the spark plug or exchange it, respectively.

- In order to "pump the engine free", pull de starter pedal 5
or 10 times. Then, start the engine as described above. If
the engine fails to start, unscrew the spark pulug and dry it.

- Clean tank cap air vent. Check by-pass throttle body. Check
the air filter.

- Close the starter. Clean fuel tank air vent. Check the air
filter.

- Fill up fuel tank.

- Full up cooling liquid, check system refrigeration.

- Clean radiators.

- Check spark plug, clean, adjust or replace.

- Check spark plug cap, if it's damaged, change it.

EC FSE 2003 -

114

-

TROUBLE CAUSE REMEDY

Engine flooded

5

Engine does not rev high, will

6

not reach full power

Abnormal engine noise

7

Spark knock

8

Exhaust pipe get out white

9

smoke.

Exhaust pipe get out brown

10

smoke.

Clutch not disengaging properly

11

- Wiring shorted or open.

- Water in fuel.

- Fuel supply partically interrupted or
carburettor dirty.

- Dirty air filter.

- Hose of engine ventilation is bent.

- Main jet clogged.

- Crankshaft bearing worn or damaged.

- Clutch slipping.

- Starter problem.

- Overheating.

- Carbon in combustion chamber.

- Incorrect or poor gasoline.

- Incorrect spark plug.

- Connecting rod exhaust system damage.

- Cylinder head gasket leaking.

- Gas valve passage maladjusted.

- Air filter is bloked.

- Main jet higher.

- No clutch lever play maladjusted.

- Friction plate worn or warped.

- Steel plate worn or warped.

- Gear lever damaged.

- Clutch spring broken or weak.

- Clutch release mechanism trouble.

- Change wiring.

- Empty fuel tank and fill up with new one.

- Clean and check fuel system as well as carburettor.

- Clean and change the air filter.

- Replace non-buckling ventilation hose.

- Dismount carburetor and clean main jet.

- Change crankshaft bearing.

- Check clutch. Go to specialized garage.

- Go to specialized garage.

- Look number 5.

- Clean combustion chamber.

- Empty, and fill up with good gasoline.

- Cambiar bujía por otra nueva o adecuada.

- Check if the exhaust system is damaged. Connecting rods
have to be perfect, if they aren't, change them.

- Change cylinder head gasket leaking. Go to specialized
garage.

- Adjust gas valve passage. Go to specialized garage.

- Clean or change the air filter. Go to specialized garage.

- Check main jet. Go to specialized garage.

- Go to specialized garage.

- Change friction plate.

- Go to specialized garage.

- Change gear lever.

- Check or change clutch spring.

- Check clutch release mechanism.

EC FSE 2003 -

115

-

TROUBLE CAUSE REMEDY

11

Clutch not disengaging properly

12

Jumps out of gear

13

Clutch slipping

14

Stability Unsatisfactory

15

Shock absorption too hard

16

Shock absorption too soft

17

Abnormal train noise

- Clutch hub or housing unevenly worn.

- Shift fork worn, gear worn.

- Gear dogs and/or dog holes worn.

- Shift drum groove worn.

- Gear positioning.

- Lever spring weak or broken.

- No clutch lever play, maladjusted.

- Friction plate worn or warped.

- Steel plate worn or warped.

- Clutch spring broken or weak.

- Clutch disc unevenly worn.

- Control cable routing incorrect.

- Wiring routing incorrect.

- Steering stem locknut too tight.

- Steering stem bent.

- Front fork oil excessive.

- Front fork oil viscosity too hight.

- Front fork leg bent.

- Tire air pressure too high.

- Rear shock absorber maladjusted.

- Front fork oil insufficient and/ or leaking.

- Front fork oil viscosity too low.

- Front fork leg bent.

- Tire air pressure too small.

- Rear shock absorber maladjusted.

- Drive chain adjusted improperly.

- Chain worn.

- Change clutch hub.

- Change it and go to specialized garage.

- Change it and go to specialized garage.

- Change it and go to specialized garage.

- Change it and go to specialized garage.

- Change it and go to specialized garage.

- Go to specialized garage.

- Change friction plate and go to specialized garage.

- Change steel plate.

- Check or change clutch spring.

- Change clutch disc. Go to specialized garage.

- Move control cable or unscrew.

- Unscrew wiring routing.

- Change steering stem locknut.

- Change and go to specialized garage.

- Empty and review level oil.

- Empty oil from fork and go to specialized garage.

- Change it. Go to a specialized garage.

- Check tire air pressure.

- Check rear shock absorber.

- Fill up until correct level.

- Empty oil from fork and fill up with suitable viscosity oil.

- Change front fork. Go to specialized garage.

- Check tire air pressure.

- Check rear shock absorber.

- Adjust chain.

- Change chain and rear engine sprocket.

EC FSE 2003 -

116

-

TROUBLE CAUSE REMEDY

Abnormal train noise

17

Handlebar shakes or excessivery

18

vibrates

Motorcycle pull to one side

19

Brakes don't hold

20

Las lámparas se funden

21

- Rear and/or engine sprocket worn.

- Chain lubrication insufficient.

- Rear wheel misaligned.

- Oil front fork insufficient or too thin.

- Spring weak or broken.

- Disc brake worn.

- Pad installed incorrectly or surface glazed.

- Cylinder damaged.

- Bracket, nut, bolt, etc. not properly
mounted or tightened.

- Tire, swing arm sleeve or needle bearin
damaged.

- Rim warped.

- Wheel misaligned.

- Front/ rear axle runout excessive.

- Frame bent.

- Steering maladjusted.

- Steering stem bent.

- Front fork bent.

- Wheel misalignment.

- Pad or disc worn.

- Brake fluid leak.

- Brake fluid deteriorated.

- Piston pump damaged.

- Brake maladjustment.

- El regulador de la tensión están
defectuosos.

- Change it.

- Lubricate with apropiate chain oil.

- Align rear wheel.

- Add oil until correct level.

- Change spring.

- Change disc brake.

- Replace pad or change.

- Change cylinder damaged.

- Go to specialized garage.

- Change it for new pieces.

- Centre rim.

- Check wheel rim pressure. Adjust if it is necessary.

- Check rear/ front axle steering. Adjust if it's necessary.

- Go to specialized garage.

- Adjust steering. Go to specialized garage.

- Change steering stem and go to specialized garage.

- Change front fork.

- Align wheel.

- Change disc.

- Check and replace.

- Empty brake fluid and replace with new recomended one.

- Replace pump piston.

- Adjust brake.

- Dismount seat and fuel tank and chec connections, have
voltage regulator checked and fuse of box fuses.

El sistema de iluminación no

22

funciona

- El fusible del relé de iluminación está
fundido.

EC FSE 2003 -

117

- Dismount seat and fuse box cover and replace fuse.

-

WARRANTY REGULATIONS

Manufacturer's warranty

The Company GAS GAS Motos S.A. hereby warrants to the final
purchaser of a vehicle manufactured by GG that both materials and
workmanship are free from defects according to the corresponding
state of the art. Accordingly, GG hereby warrants to the final purchaser
(hereinafter referred to as the «purchaser»), subject to the conditions
stated below, to remove any defects in material or production detected
in a new motorcycle free of charge within the agreed period of
warranty without any limitation whatsoever in terms of the number
of kilometres travelled or the number of operating hours.

Period of warranty

The period of warranty shall commence on the day of delivery of the
vehicle by a licensed GG dealer to the purchaser, or in the case of
demonstration models, on the date on which the vehicle is put into
operation for the first time.

The length of the warranty period depends on the type of vehicle
and is stated in the document of delivery.

Any defects detected in the product shall be brought to the attention
of a licensed GG dealer within the warranty period. If the last day
of the warranty period is a Sunday or public holiday, the warranty
period shall be extended in such a way that the last day of the
warranty period is the next working day following the respective
Sunday or public holiday. Warranty claims shall be excluded for any
defects not brought to the attention of a licensed GG dealer by the
end of the warranty period.

Obligation of the purchaser

GG shall be entitled to refuse to accept warranty claims if and to the
extent that:

a) The purchaser has failed to subject the vehicle to any of the
inspections and/or maintenance work prescribed in the operating
manual or has exceeded the date stated for such inspections or
maintenance work, also excluding from the warranty defects that
appeared before the prescribed date of such inspection or
maintenance work performed not at all or performed only after the
prescribed date.
b) Inspection, maintenance work and repair work on the vehicle has
been performed by a party neither recognized nor licensed by GG;
c) Any maintenance or repair work has been performed on the
vehicle in violation of the technical requirements, specifications and
instructions indicated by the manufacturer.
d) Spare parts not released for use by GG have been used to perform
maintenance or repair work on the vehicle, or if and to the extent
that the vehicle has been operated using other fuels, lubricants or
operating fluids (including but not limited to cleaning agents) than
those expressly stated in the specifications in the operating manual;
e) The vehicle has been altered or modified in any way or equipped
with other components than those expressly released by GG as
admissible vehicle components.
f) The vehicle has been stored or transported in a way that does
not meet the corresponding technical requirements.
g) The vehicle has been used for competitions, races or attempts
at any record whatsoever.

Exclusion from warranty

The following items shall be excluded from warranty:

a) wear and tear parts including, without limitation, sparks plugs,
batteries, fuel filters, oil filter elements, driving chains, engine
sprockets, rear sprockets, air filters, brake discs, brake pads, clutch
discs, lamps, fuses, carbon brushes, footrest rubbers, tires, tubes,
cables and other rubber components.

EC FSE 2003 -

118

-

b) Lubricants (e.g. oil, grease, etc.) and operating fluids (e.g. battery
fluid, cooling liquid, etc.).
c) Inspection, adjusting and other periodical maintenance work as
well as all kinds of cleaning work.
d) Damage to paint work and corrosion thereof due to external
influences such as stones, salt, industrial exhaust gases and other
environmental impacts or inadequate cleaning with inadequate
products.
e) Any consequential harms caused by defects as well as incidental
expenses directly or indirectly related to defects (e.g.
telecommunication charges, cost of board and lodging, cost of rental
cars, public transport charges, cost of salvage and towing, overnight
expenses, etc.) as well as other financial disadvantages (e.g. caused
by loss of use of a motor vehicle, loss of earnings, loss of time, etc.).
f) Any aesthetic or acoustic phenomena that does not significantly
affect the serviceable condition of the motorcycle (e.g. hidden or
minor blemishes, normal operating noise or vibrations).
g) Phenomena due to the aging of the vehicle (e.g. fading of painted
or metal-coated surfaces).

Miscellaneous

1.- GG shall be entitled to decide in its sole discretion whether to
repair or to replace defective parts. The ownership of parts replaced,
if any, shall pass to GG, free of any consideration whatsoever. The
licensed GG dealer entrusted wit the removal of defects shall not
be authorized to issue binding declarations on behalf of.

2.- In cases of doubt regarding the existence of a defect or if a visual
inspection or material testing is required, GG shall be entitled to
demand submission of the parts for which warranty claims are put
forward or to order an examination of the defect by a GG expert.
Any additional warranty obligations for parts replaced free of charge
or for any service performed free of charge under the present
warranty shall be excluded. The warranty components replaced
within the warranty period shall end at the date of expiry of the
warranty period agreed for the respective product.

3.- If it turns out that any defect cannot be removed, the warranty
shall be entitled to demand termination of the contract (payment of
a compensation) or partial reimbursement for the purchasing price
(discount) instead of repair of the motorcycle.
The warranty shall in no case be entitled to receive a new motorcycle
as a substitute for the defective product.

4.- The warranty claims of the purchaser under the contract of
purchase and sale concluded with the respective licensed dealer
shall not be affected by the present warranty. Neither shall the present
warranty affect any additional contractual rights of the purchaser
under de General Business Conditions of the licensed dealer.
However, such additional rights can only be claimed against the
licensed dealer.

5.- If the purchaser resells the product within the warranty period,
the terms and conditions of the present warranty shall continue to
exist in their present scope, the right to put forward claims under the
present warranty according to the terms and conditions hereof will
be passed on to the new owner of the motorcycle.

February 2003

EC FSE 2003 -

119

-

FEBRERO / FEBRUARY 2003

C/ UNICEF nº 17 · Poligon Industrial Torremirona · 17190 Salt (Girona) SPAIN · Te l: [phone] Fax: [phone]

E-mail: [e-mail] / [e-mail] · Web: www.gasgasmotos.es

PU010338018