Ford Fiesta 1995 User Manual

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Chapter 1

Routine maintenance and servicing

Air cleaner element renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24

Automatic transmission fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

Automatic transmission fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26

Auxiliary drivebelt check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Bodywork, paint and exterior trim check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

Brake check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

Brake fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31

Coolant renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

Door, tailgate and bonnet check and lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

Driveshaft rubber gaiter and CV joint check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Emission control system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25

Engine compartment wiring check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Engine oil and filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Exhaust system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

Front wheel alignment check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28

Fuel filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30

Handbrake adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27

Idle speed and mixture check and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

Idle speed control valve cleaning and maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

Intensive maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Manual transmission oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Road test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

Roadwheel nut tightness check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

Seat belt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

Spark plug renewal and HT component check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21

Steering, suspension and roadwheel check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Timing belt renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29

Underbody and fuel/brake line check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Underbonnet check for fluid leaks and hose condition . . . . . . . . . . 5

Valve clearance adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

1•1

Contents

Easy, suitable for

novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Lubricants and fluids

Refer to end of “Weekly Checks”

Capacities

Engine oil

At oil and filter change:

HCS engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.25 litres

CVH and PTE engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.50 litres

Zetec engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.25 litres

Difference between dipstick minimum and maximum level notches . . . 0.5 to 1.0 litre

Cooling system

HCS engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.1 litres

CVH and PTE engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.6 litres

Zetec engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.0 litres

Fuel tank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.0 litres

Manual transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.1 litres

Automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.5 litres

Engine

Direction of crankshaft rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clockwise (seen from right-hand side of vehicle)

Oil filter:

HCS, CVH and PTE engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion C104

Zetec engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion C148

Cooling system

Coolant protection at standard 40% antifreeze/water mixture ratio:

Slush point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . -25ºC (-13ºF)

Solidifying point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . -30ºC (-22ºF)

Coolant specific gravity at standard 40% antifreeze/water

mixture ratio and 15ºC/59ºF - with no other additives in coolant . . . . . 1.061

Fuel system

Idle speed*:

1.0, 1.1 and 1.3 litre HCS (carburettor) engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 750 ± 50 rpm (cooling fan running)

1.4 and 1.6 litre CVH (carburettor) engines:

Manual transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 800 ± 50 rpm (cooling fan running)

CTX automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 850 ± 50 rpm (cooling fan running)

1.6 litre CVH (EFi fuel injection) engines:

Idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 900 ± 50 rpm

Base idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 750 ± 50 rpm

Idle mixture CO content*:

1.0, 1.1 and 1.3 litre HCS (carburettor) engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 ± 0.5%

1.4 litre CVH (carburettor) engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 ± 0.25%

1.6 litre CVH (carburettor) engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 ± 0.5%

1.6 litre CVH (fuel injection) engines:

Non turbo models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.8 ± 0.25%

Turbo models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 ± 0.25%

*Note: The idle speed and mixture CO content is only adjustable on the engines shown above. On all other engines, it is controlled by the engine management system, and cannot be checked or adjusted without specialised test equipment.

Air filter element:

1.0, 1.1 and 1.3 litre HCS engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W153

1.4 litre CVH and PTE engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W226

1.6 litre CVH (carburettor) engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W226

1.6 litre CVH (fuel injection) engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion U557

1.6 and 1.8 litre Zetec engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion U612

Fuel filter:

HCS, CVH (fuel injection) and PTE engines:

Without quick-release fuel line fittings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion L204

With quick-release fuel line fittings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion type not available

Zetec engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion L218

1•2 Servicing Specifications

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Ignition system

Firing order:

HCS engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-2-4-3 (No 1 cylinder at timing chain end of engine)

All other engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-3-4-2 (No 1 cylinder at timing belt end of engine)

Spark plugs*:

HCS engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RS9YCC or RS9YC

1.4 and 1.6 litre CVH (carburettor) engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RC7YCC or RC7YC

1.6 litre CVH (EFi fuel injection) and PTE engines

Non-turbo models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RC7YCC4 or RC7YC4

Turbo models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion C61YC

1.6 and 1.8 litre Zetec engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RE7YCC

Electrode gap*:

HCS engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 mm

1.4 litre CVH (carburettor) engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.8 mm

1.4 litre CVH (CFi fuel injection) and PTE engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 mm

1.6 litre CVH (carburettor) engines:

With Champion RC7YCC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.8 mm

With Champion RC7YC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.7 mm

1.6 litre CVH (EFi fuel injection) engines:

Non-turbo models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 mm

Turbo models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.7 mm

1.6 and 1.8 litre Zetec engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.3 mm

Spark plug (HT) leads:

HCS engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion LS-28

1.4 and 1.6 litre CVH (carburettor) engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion LS-14

1.4 litre CVH (CFi fuel injection) and PTE engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion LS-14

1.6 litre CVH (EFi fuel injection) engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion LS-26

1.6 and 1.8 litre Zetec engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion type not available

Maximum resistance per lead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 000 ohms

* Information on spark plug types and electrode gaps is as recommended by Champion Spark Plug. Where alternative types are used, refer to their manufacturer’s recommendations.

Braking system

Minimum front brake pad lining thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 mm

Minimum rear brake shoe lining thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 mm

Tyres

Tyre pressures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See “Weekly Checks”

Wiper blades

Windscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion X-4803

Tailgate/rear window . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion X-4103

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Auxiliary drivebelt cover fasteners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6

Auxiliary drivebelt adjustment:

Adjusting bolt (sliding arm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16

Central (locking) bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16

Pinion (adjuster) nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 9

Alternator mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 18

Tensioner pulley centre bolt (HCS engines) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

Engine oil drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 18

Manual transmission filler/level plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

Spark plugs:

HCS engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 13

CVH and PTE engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 18

Zetec engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11

Roadwheel nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 to 100 52 to 74

Servicing Specifications 1•3

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

The maintenance schedule for these vehicles, based on the manufacturer’s recommendations, is as described below note that the schedule starts from the vehicle’s date of registration. These are the minimum maintenance intervals recommended by the factory for Fiestas driven daily, but subjected only to “normal” use. If you wish to keep your vehicle in peak condition at all times, you may wish to perform some of these procedures even more often. Because frequent maintenance enhances the efficiency, performance and resale value of your vehicle, we encourage you to do so. If your usage is not “normal”, shorter intervals

are also recommended - the most important examples of these are noted in the schedule. These shorter intervals apply particularly if you drive in dusty areas, tow a caravan or trailer, sit with the engine idling or drive at low speeds for extended periods (ie, in heavy traffic), or drive for short distances (less than four miles) in below-freezing temperatures.

When your vehicle is new, it should be serviced by a Ford dealer service department to protect the factory warranty. In many cases, the initial maintenance check is done at no cost to the owner. Note that this first free service (carried out by the selling dealer

1500 miles or 3 months after delivery), although an important check for a new vehicle, is not part of the regular maintenance schedule, and is therefore not mentioned here.

It should be noted that for the 1992 model year, for all models except RS Turbo, the service time/mileage intervals were extended by the manufacturer to the periods shown in this schedule. Although these intervals can be applied retrospectively, owners of earlier vehicles may notice a discrepancy between this schedule and the one shown in the Service Guide supplied with the vehicle.

1•4 Maintenance schedule

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly

mm Refer to “Weekly Checks”.

Every 5000 miles (8000 km) or 6 months, whichever occurs first

Note: Frequent oil and filter changes are good for the engine. We recommend changing the oil at the mileage specified here, or at least twice a year if the mileage covered is less.

mm Renew the engine oil and filter (Section 3).

Every 10 000 miles (16 000 km) or 12 months, whichever occurs first

Carry out all operations listed above, plus the following:

mm Check the auxiliary drivebelt (Section 4). mm Check under the bonnet for fluid leaks and hose condition

(Section 5).

mm Check the condition of all engine compartment wiring (Sec-

tion 6).

mm Check the valve clearance adjustment - HCS engines only

(Section 7).

mm Check the manual transmission oil level (Section 8). mm Check the engine idle speed and mixture - HCS and CVH

engines only, where possible (Section 9).

mm Check the steering, suspension and roadwheels (Section 10). mm Check the driveshaft rubber gaiters and CV joints (Section 11). mm Check the exhaust system (Section 12). mm Check the underbody, and all fuel/brake lines (Section 13). mm Check the brake system (Section 14). mm Check the security of all roadwheel nuts (Section 15). mm Check the doors, tailgate and bonnet, and lubricate their hinges

and locks (Section 16).

mm Check the seat belts (Section 17). mm Check the condition of the bodywork, paint and exterior trim

(Section 18).

mm Road test (Section 19). mm Check the automatic transmission fluid level (Section 20).

Every 20 000 miles (32 000 km) or two years, whichever occurs first

Carry out all operations listed above, plus the following:

mm Renew the spark plugs and check the condition of the HT leads

- all engines except Zetec (Section 21).

mm Clean the idle speed control valve (Weber type) - CVH EFi

engines only (Section 22).

Every 30 000 miles (48 000 km) or three years, whichever occurs first

Carry out all operations listed above, plus the following:

mm Renew the coolant (Section 23). mm Renew the air cleaner filter element and check the air cleaner

temperature control system - carburettor engines only (Section 24).

mm Check the emission control systems (Section 25). mm Renew the spark plugs and check the condition of the HT leads

- Zetec engines (Section 21).

mm Renew the automatic transmission fluid (Section 26). mm Check the handbrake adjustment (Section 27). mm Check the front wheel alignment (Section 28).

Note: If the vehicle is used regularly in dusty or polluted conditions, the air cleaner filter element should be renewed at more frequent intervals.

Every 40 000 miles

mm Renew the timing belt - CVH and PTE engines only (Section 29).

Every 60 000 miles

mm Renew the timing belt - Zetec engines only (Section 29). mm Renew the fuel filter (Section 30).

Every three years (regardless of mileage)

mm Renew the brake fluid (Section 31).

Maintenance – component location 1•5

1 Engine oil filler cap 2 Engine oil level dipstick 3 Cooling system expansion tank 4 Brake fluid reservoir 5 Windscreen/tailgate washer fluid reservoir

cap 6 Battery 7 Vehicle identification plate 8 Thermostat housing 9 Pre-heat tube 10 Timing belt cover 11 Distributor 12 Fuel filter 13 Heater blower motor cover 14 Windscreen wiper motor mounting bracket 15 Jack and wheelbrace retaining bolt 16 Top of suspension strut mounting

assembly 17 EEC IV engine management module cover 18 CFi unit 19 Fuel injector 20 Fuel pressure regulator 21 Throttle plate control motor 22 Carbon canister 23 Manifold absolute pressure sensor 24 Ignition module

1.1 litre HCS carburettor engine (air cleaner removed for clarity)

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

1.4 litre CVH CFi fuel injection engine (air cleaner removed for clarity)

1 Engine oil filler cap 2 Engine oil level dipstick 3 Cooling system expansion tank 4 Brake fluid reservoir 5 Windscreen/tailgate washer fluid reservoir

cap 6 Battery 7 Vehicle identification plate 8 Thermostat housing 9 Radiator cooling fan thermal switch multi-

plug 10 Alternator 11 Starter motor solenoid 12 CTX automatic transmission fluid level

dipstick 13 Exhaust heatshield/airbox 14 Brake pressure control valves 15 Top of suspension strut mounting

assembly 16 Carburettor 17 Fuel feed hose 18 Anti-dieselling (fuel-cut off) solenoid

connection 19 Throttle kicker 20 Throttle kicker control solenoid 21 Ignition module 22 Heater blower motor cover 23 Windscreen wiper motor mounting bracket

1•6 Maintenance – component location

1.6 litre (XR2i) CVH EFi fuel injection engine

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

1 Engine oil filler cap 2 Engine oil level dipstick 3 Cooling system expansion tank 4 Brake fluid reservoir 5 Windscreen/tailgate washer fluid reservoir

cap 6 Battery 7 Vehicle identification plate 8 Thermostat housing 9 Timing belt cover 10 Top of suspension strut mounting

assembly 11 Windscreen wiper motor mounting bracket 12 Jack and wheelbrace retaining bolt 13 Distributorless (E-DIS) ignition coil 14 Fuel filter 15 Air cleaner 16 Air inlet duct 17 Idle speed control valve 18 Fuel pressure regulator 19 Throttle housing 20 Upper section of inlet manifold 21 Intake air temperature sensor 22 Fuel trap 23 EEC IV engine management module cover 24 Manifold absolute pressure sensor 25 Ignition module

1.8 litre (XR2i) Zetec SEFi fuel injection engine

1 Engine oil filler cap 2 Engine oil level dipstick 3 Cooling system expansion tank 4 Braking system fluid reservoir 5 Windscreen/tailgate washer fluid reservoir

cap 6 Battery 7 VIN plate 8 Thermostat housing 9 Timing belt cover 10 Top of suspension strut mounting

assembly 11 Windscreen wiper motor mounting bracket 12 Jack and wheelbrace retaining bolt 13 Distributorless (E-DIS) ignition coil 14 Fuel filter 15 Air cleaner 16 Air inlet duct 17 Idle speed control valve 18 Fuel pressure regulator 19 Throttle housing 20 Inlet manifold 21 Throttle position sensor 22 Fuel system pressure release/test point 23 EEC IV engine management module cover 24 Mass air flow sensor 25 Ignition module

Maintenance – component location 1•7

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Front underside view of the 1.4 litre CVH CFi fuel injection model

1 Engine oil sump 2 Front suspension lower arm 3 Brake caliper assembly 4 Driveshaft 5 Alternator 6 Auxiliary drivebelt cover 7 Steering rack gaiter 8 Windscreen/tailgate washer pump 9 Carbon canister 10 Oxygen sensor 11 Catalytic converter (exhaust) rubber

insulator mounting 12 Catalytic converter assembly 13 Underbody heatshields 14 Gearchange mechanism shift rod 15 Gearchange mechanism stabiliser bar

Front underside view of the 1.8 litre (XR2i) Zetec SEFi fuel injection model

1 Engine oil drain plug 2 Front suspension lower arm 3 Brake caliper assembly 4 Driveshaft 5 Alternator 6 Auxiliary drivebelt cover 7 Horn 8 Windscreen/tailgate washer pump 9 Carbon canister 10 Oxygen sensor 11 Front suspension crossmember 12 Catalytic converter 13 Underbody heat shields 14 Gearchange mechanism shift rod 15 Gearchange mechanism stabiliser bar

1•8 Maintenance – component location

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Rear underside view of the 1.4 litre CVH CFi fuel injection model

1 Fuel tank 2 Fuel filler pipe 3 Fuel tank ventilation hose 4 Twist beam rear axle assembly 5 Underbody heatshields 6 Exhaust rear silencer 7 Exhaust rubber insulator mounting 8 Load apportioning valves (on vehicles with

the anti-lock braking system) 9 Handbrake cable 10 Rear towing eye 11 Spare wheel carrier hook (on the retaining

bolt)

Rear underside view of the Courier van model

1 Fuel tank 2 Fuel filler pipe 3 Fuel tank ventilation hose 4 Rear axle assembly - spring torsion bars

visible 5 Rear axle pivot brackets 6 Rear suspension dampers 7 Exhaust system rear silencer 8 Braking system light-laden valve 9 Handbrake cables 10 Rear towing eye 11 Spare wheel carrier

3 Engine oil and filter renewal

1 Make sure that you have all the necessary tools before you begin this procedure (see illustration). You should also have plenty of rags or newspapers handy, for mopping up any spills. 2 To avoid any possibility of scalding, and to protect yourself from possible skin irritants and other harmful contaminants in used engine oils, it is advisable to wear gloves when carrying out this work.

3 Access to the underside of the vehicle is greatly improved if the vehicle can be lifted on a hoist, driven onto ramps, or supported by axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).

Warning: Do not work under a vehicle which is supported only by an hydraulic or scissors-type jack, or by bricks, blocks of wood, etc.

4 If this is your first oil change, get under the vehicle and familiarise yourself with the position of the engine oil drain plug location in the sump. The engine and exhaust components will be warm during the actual work, so try to anticipate any potential problems while the engine and accessories are cool. 5 The oil should preferably be changed when the engine is still fully warmed-up to normal operating temperature, just after a run (the needle on the temperature gauge should be in the “Normal” sector of the gauge); warm oil and sludge will flow out more easily. Park the vehicle on firm, level ground, apply the handbrake firmly, then select 1st or reverse gear (manual transmission) or the “P” position (automatic transmission). Open the bonnet and remove the engine oil filler cap from the cylinder head cover, then remove the oil level dipstick from its tube (see “Weekly Checks”). 6 Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it securely on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove the front righthand roadwheel to provide access to the oil

1 Introduction

This Chapter is designed to help the home mechanic maintain his/her vehicle for safety, economy, long life and peak performance.

This Chapter contains a master maintenance schedule, followed by Sections dealing specifically with each task in the schedule. Visual checks, adjustments, component renewal and other helpful items are included. Refer to the accompanying illustrations of the engine compartment and the underside of the vehicle for the locations of the various components.

Servicing your vehicle in accordance with the mileage/time maintenance schedule and the following Sections will provide a planned maintenance programme, which should result in a long and reliable service life. This is a comprehensive plan, so maintaining some items but not others at the specified service intervals will not produce the same results.

As you service your vehicle, you will discover that many of the procedures can and should - be grouped together, because of the particular procedure being performed, or because of the close proximity of two otherwise-unrelated components to one another. For example, if the vehicle is raised for any reason, the exhaust should be inspected at the same time as the suspension and steering components.

The first step of this maintenance programme is to prepare yourself before the actual work begins. Read through all the

Sections relevant to the work to be carried out, then make a list and gather together all the parts and tools required. If a problem is encountered, seek advice from a parts specialist or a dealer service department.

2 Intensive maintenance

1 If, from the time the vehicle is new, the

routine maintenance schedule is followed closely, and frequent checks are made of fluid levels and high-wear items, as suggested throughout this manual, the engine will be kept in relatively good running condition, and the need for additional work will be minimised. 2 It is possible that there will be some times when the engine is running poorly due to the lack of regular maintenance. This is even more likely if a used vehicle, which has not received regular and frequent maintenance checks, is purchased. In such cases, additional work may need to be carried out, outside of the regular maintenance intervals. 3 If engine wear is suspected, a compression test (refer to Part A, B or C of Chapter 2) will provide valuable information regarding the overall performance of the main internal components. Such a test can be used as a basis to decide on the extent of the work to be carried out. If, for example, a compression test indicates serious internal engine wear, conventional maintenance as described in this Chapter will not greatly improve the performance of the engine, and may prove a

waste of time and money, unless extensive overhaul work (Chapter 2D) is carried out first. 4 The following series of operations are those often required to improve the performance of a generally poor-running engine:

Primary operations

a) Clean, inspect and test the battery (See

“Weekly Checks”).

b) Check all the engine-related fluids (See

“Weekly Checks”).

c) Check the condition of the auxiliary

drivebelt (Section 4).

d) Check and if necessary adjust the valve

clearances on HCS engines (Section 7).

e) Renew the spark plugs and clean and

inspect the HT leads (Section 21).

f) Check the condition of the air cleaner

filter element and renew if necessary (Section 24).

g) Check and if necessary adjust the idle

speed and mixture settings - where applicable (Section 9).

h) Renew the fuel filter - fuel injection

models (Section 30).

i) Check the condition of all hoses, and

check for fluid leaks (Section 5).

5 If the above operations do not prove fully effective, carry out the following operations:

Secondary operations

All the items listed under “Primary operations”, plus the following:

a) Check the charging system (Chapter 5A). b) Check the ignition system (Chapter 5B). c) Check the fuel system (Chapter 4A, 4B,

4C and 4D).

e) Renew the ignition HT leads (Section 21).

Maintenance procedures 1•9

3.2 These tools are required when changing the engine oil and filter

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Every 5000 miles (8000 km) or 6 months, whichever occurs first

Frequent oil changes are the best preventive maintenance the home

mechanic can give the engine, because ageing oil becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear.

filter; if the additional working clearance is required, remove also the auxiliary drivebelt cover. 7 Being careful not to touch the hot exhaust components, place the drain pan under the drain plug, and unscrew the plug (see illustrations). If possible, try to keep the plug pressed into the sump while unscrewing it by hand the last couple of turns.

8 Allow some time for the old oil to drain, noting that it may be necessary to reposition the pan as the oil flow slows to a trickle. Check the condition of the plug’s sealing washer and renew it if worn or damaged. When the oil has completely drained, wipe clean the drain plug and its threads in the sump and refit the plug, tightening it to the specified torque wrench setting. 9 Reposition the drain pan under the oil filter then, using a suitable filter removal tool,

unscrew the oil filter from the cylinder block, oil pump or oil filter adaptor, as applicable; be prepared for some oil spillage (see illustration). Check the old filter to make sure that the rubber sealing ring hasn’t stuck to the engine; if it has, carefully remove it. Withdraw the filter through the wheel arch, taking care to spill as little oil as possible. 10 Using a clean, lint-free rag, wipe clean the cylinder block around the filter mounting. If there are no specific instructions supplied with it, fit a new oil filter as follows. Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to the filter’s sealing ring (see illustration). Screw the filter into position until it seats, then tighten it through a further half- to three-quarters of a turn only (see illustration). Tighten the filter by hand only - do not use any tools. 11 Remove the old oil and all tools from under the vehicle, refit the roadwheel, and lower the vehicle to the ground. 12 Refill the engine with oil, using the correct grade and type of oil, as given in “Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressures”. Pour in half the specified quantity of oil first, then wait a few minutes for the oil to run to the sump. Continue adding oil a small quantity at a time, until the level is up to the lower notch on the

dipstick. Adding approximately 0.5 to 1.0 litre (depending on model) will raise the level to the dipstick’s upper notch. 13 Start the engine. The oil pressure warning light will take a few seconds to go out while the new filter fills with oil; do not race the engine while the light is on. Run the engine for a few minutes, while checking for leaks around the oil filter seal and the drain plug. 14 Switch off the engine, and wait a few minutes for the oil to settle in the sump once more. With the new oil circulated and the filter now completely full, recheck the level on the dipstick, and add more oil as necessary. 15 Dispose of the used engine oil safely, with reference to “General repair procedures” in the Reference Sections of this manual.

1•10 Every 5000 miles or 6 months

3.10b Fitting the new oil filter on the Zetec engine 3.10a Lubricate the filter’s sealing ring with clean engine oil

before installing the filter on the engine

3.9 Removing the oil filter on the CVH engine using a strap wrench

3.7b Removing the engine oil drain plug on the Zetec engine

3.7a Engine oil drain plug location in the sump on HCS, CVH and PTE engines

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Note: It is antisocial and illegal to dump oil down the drain. To find the location of your local oil recycling bank, call this number free.

As the drain plug releases from the threads, move it away sharply, so the stream of oil issuing from the sump runs into the pan, not up your sleeve!

4 Auxiliary drivebelt check and

renewal

General

1 The number of auxiliary drivebelts fitted and their type depends on engine, and on whether the vehicle is equipped with power steering. The drivebelt(s) are located on the right-hand end of the engine and will be either of the Vbelt type or the flat, multi-ribbed (or “polyvee”) type. The belt drives the alternator, water pump and, on CVH and Zetec engines with power steering, the power steering pump from the engine’s crankshaft pulley. On HCS engines with power steering, one belt drives the alternator and water pump and a separate belt drives the power steering pump. 2 The good condition and proper tension of the auxiliary drivebelt is critical to the operation of the engine. Because of their composition and the high stresses to which they are subjected, drivebelts stretch and deteriorate as they get older. They must, therefore, be regularly inspected.

Check

3 With the engine switched off, open and support the bonnet, then locate the auxiliary drivebelt(s) on the right-hand end of the engine (Be very careful, and wear protective

gloves to minimise the risk of burning your hands on hot components, if the engine has recently been running). For improved access,

jack up the front right-hand side of the vehicle, support it securely on an axle stand, remove the roadwheel, then (where fitted) remove the auxiliary drivebelt lower cover from inside the wheel arch (see

illustration). 4 Using an inspection light or an electric

torch, and rotating the engine when necessary with a spanner applied to the crankshaft pulley bolt, check the whole length of the

drivebelt(s) for cracks, separation of the rubber, and torn or worn ribs (see illustration). Also check for fraying and glazing, which gives the drivebelt a shiny appearance. Both sides of the drivebelt(s) should be inspected, which means you will have to twist the drivebelt(s) to check the underside. Feel the relevant drivebelt where you can’t see it. If you are in any doubt as to the condition of the drivebelt(s), renewal is necessary (go to paragraph 23).

Drivebelt tension

5 The tension must be adjusted manually on all V-belt type drivebelts, on flat “polyvee” type drivebelts fitted to early Zetec engines, and on “polyvee” type drivebelts fitted to HCS engines to drive the power steering pump. The “polyvee” type drivebelts used on later Zetec engines and PTE engines are fitted with an automatic tensioner to maintain the correct belt adjustment. 6 For models on which the tension can be adjusted manually, open the bonnet. Jack up

the front right-hand side of the vehicle, and support it securely on an axle stand. Remove the roadwheel, then (where fitted) remove the auxiliary drivebelt lower cover from inside the wheel arch. 7 Ford technicians use a special tension gauge and various other special tools for checking drivebelt adjustment, but for DIY purposes, checking the belt tension using finger pressure gives a good indication of correct adjustment. Apply firm finger pressure midway between the pulleys on the longest run of the belt, and look for a deflection of approximately 2.0 mm (i.e. a total drivebelt “swing” of approximately

4.0 mm) (see illustration). 8 If adjustment is necessary, proceed as follows according to belt type.

V-belt with sliding arm type adjuster

9 Loosen off the alternator mounting bolts

and sliding arm adjustment bolts, pivot the alternator as required to provide the correct drivebelt tension, then retighten the bolts to secure (see illustration). 10 Refit the auxiliary drivebelt cover (where applicable) and roadwheel, then lower the vehicle to the ground. 11 Run the engine for about five minutes, then recheck the tension.

Every 10 000 miles (16 000 km) or 12 months, whichever comes first

Every 10 000 miles or 12 months 1•11

4.9 Alternator sliding arm adjustment

bolt (A) and sliding arm mounting bolt (B) -

V-belt with sliding arm type adjuster

4.7 Checking drivebelt adjustment - V-belt types

Note that the 4 mm dimension is the total belt

swing and is equal to 2 mm of deflection

4.3 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt lower cover from inside the wheel arch

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

4.4 Check the auxiliary drivebelt for signs of wear like these. Very small cracks across the drivebelt ribs are

acceptable. If the cracks are deep,

or if the drivebelt looks worn or

damaged in any other way, renew it.

This is the “polyvee” type belt, but

the checks on the V-belt type are

the same

Turning the engine will be much easier if the spark plugs are removed first (Section 21).

V-belt and flat “polyvee” type drivebelt with rack-and-pinion type adjuster

12 Loosen off the alternator mounting bolts

and the adjusting arm mounting bolt. Slacken the pinion central locking bolt, and turn the pinion nut as required to take up the tension of the drivebelt. Hold it at the required setting, and tighten the central bolt securely to lock the adjuster arm and set the tension (see

illustrations). 13 Tighten the alternator mounting and

adjusting arm bolts securely. 14 Refit the auxiliary drivebelt cover (where applicable) and roadwheel, then lower the vehicle to the ground. 15 Run the engine for about five minutes, then recheck the tension.

Flat “polyvee” type drivebelt with tensioner pulley adjuster (HCS engine power steering pump drivebelt)

16 Slacken the tensioner pulley centre bolt

then turn the adjuster bolt at the base of the tensioner pulley bracket, as required, to take up the tension of the drivebelt. When the belt deflection is correct, tighten the adjuster pulley centre retaining bolt. 17 Refit the auxiliary drivebelt cover (where applicable) and roadwheel, then lower the vehicle to the ground. 18 Run the engine for about five minutes, then recheck the tension.

Flat “polyvee” type drivebelt with automatic adjuster

19 As mentioned above, this type of drivebelt

is tensioned by an automatic tensioner; regular checks are not required, and manual “adjustment” is not possible. 20 If you suspect that the drivebelt is slipping and/or running slack, or that the tensioner is otherwise faulty, it must be renewed. To do this, remove the drivebelt as described below, then unbolt and remove the tensioner. On fitting the new tensioner, ensure that it is aligned correctly on its mountings, and tightened to the specified torque wrench setting.

Renewal

21 Open the bonnet. Jack up the front righthand side of the vehicle, and support it securely on an axle stand. Remove the roadwheel, then remove the auxiliary drivebelt lower cover (where fitted) from inside the wheel arch. 22 The routing of the drivebelt around the pulleys is dependent on the drivebelt type, and on whether power steering is fitted. Before removing the drivebelt, it’s a good idea to sketch the belt run around the pulleys; this will save a lot of frustration when it comes to refitting. Note that on HCS engines with power steering, to renew the alternator/ water pump drivebelt it will be necessary to remove the power steering pump drivebelt first. 23 If the existing drivebelt is to be refitted, mark it, or note the maker’s markings on its flat surface, so that it can be installed the same way round. 24 To renew a drivebelt with manual adjustment, slacken the belt tension fully as described above, according to type. Slip the belt off the pulleys, then fit the new belt, ensuring that it is routed correctly. If fitting a flat “polyvee” type drivebelt, arrange it on the grooved pulleys so that it is centred in their grooves, and not overlapping their raised sides. With the belt in position, adjust the tension as previously described. 25 To renew the flat, “polyvee” type drivebelt with automatic adjuster, reach up between the body and the engine (above the crankshaft pulley), and apply a spanner to the hexagon in the centre of the automatic tensioner’s pulley. Rotate the tensioner pulley clockwise to release its pressure on the drivebelt, then slip the drivebelt off the crankshaft pulley, and release the tensioner again (see illustration). Note that on certain models, a self-cocking tensioner is fitted, and that this will remain in the released position. Working from the wheel arch or engine compartment as necessary, and noting its routing, slip the drivebelt off the remaining pulleys and withdraw it. 26 Check all the pulleys, ensuring that their grooves are clean, and removing all traces of

oil and grease. Check that the tensioner works properly, with strong spring pressure being felt when its pulley is rotated clockwise, and a smooth return to the limit of its travel when released. 27 If the original drivebelt is being refitted, use the marks or notes made on removal, to ensure that it is installed to run in the same direction as it was previously. To fit the drivebelt, arrange it on the grooved pulleys so that it is centred in their grooves, and not overlapping their raised sides, and is routed correctly. Start at the top, and work down to finish at the crankshaft pulley; rotate the tensioner pulley clockwise, slip the drivebelt onto the crankshaft pulley, then release the tensioner again. 28 Using a spanner applied to the crankshaft pulley bolt, rotate the crankshaft through at least two full turns clockwise to settle the drivebelt on the pulleys, then check that the drivebelt is properly installed. 29 Refit the auxiliary drivebelt cover (where applicable) and roadwheel, then lower the vehicle to the ground.

5 Underbonnet check for fluid

leaks and hose condition

General

1 High temperatures in the engine compartment can cause the deterioration of the rubber and plastic hoses used for engine, accessory and emissions systems operation. Periodic inspection should be made for cracks, loose clamps, material hardening and leaks. 2 Carefully check the large top and bottom radiator hoses, along with the other smallerdiameter cooling system hoses and metal pipes; do not forget the heater hoses/pipes which run from the engine to the bulkhead. Inspect each hose along its entire length, replacing any that is cracked, swollen or shows signs of deterioration. Cracks may become more apparent if the hose is

1•12 Every 10 000 miles or 12 months

4.25 Automatic drivebelt tensioner “polyvee” type drivebelt

Turn tensioner clockwise to release tension

4.12b When the tension is correct, hold the adjuster nut, and tighten the central

bolt securely to lock the adjuster arm

4.12a Rack-and-pinion type auxiliary drivebelt adjuster

A Adjuster arm B Pinion (adjuster) nut C Central (locking) bolt

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

squeezed (see illustration). If you are using non-Ford specification antifreeze, and so have to renew the coolant every two years or so, it’s a good idea to renew the hoses at that time, regardless of their apparent condition. 3 Make sure that all hose connections are tight. A leak in the cooling system will usually show up as white- or rust-coloured deposits on the areas adjoining the leak; if the spring clamps that are used to secure the hoses in this system appear to be slackening, they should be renewed to prevent the possibility of leaks. 4 Some other hoses are secured to their fittings with clamps. Where clamps are used, check to be sure they haven’t lost their tension, allowing the hose to leak. If clamps aren’t used, make sure the hose has not expanded and/or hardened where it slips over the fitting, allowing it to leak. 5 Check all fluid reservoirs, filler caps, drain plugs and fittings etc, looking for any signs of leakage of oil, transmission and/or brake hydraulic fluid, coolant and power steering fluid. If the vehicle is regularly parked in the same place, close inspection of the ground underneath it will soon show any leaks. As soon as a leak is detected, its source must be traced and rectified. Where oil has been leaking for some time, it is usually necessary to use a steam cleaner, pressure washer or similar, to clean away the accumulated dirt, so that (when the engine is run again) the exact source of the leak can be identified.

Vacuum hoses

6 It’s quite common for vacuum hoses, especially those in the emissions system, to be colour-coded, or to be identified by coloured

stripes moulded into them. Various systems require hoses with different wall thicknesses, collapse resistance and temperature resistance. When renewing hoses, be sure the new ones are made of the same material. 7 Often the only effective way to check a hose is to remove it completely from the vehicle. If more than one hose is removed, be sure to label the hoses and fittings to ensure correct installation. 8 When checking vacuum hoses, be sure to include any plastic T-fittings in the check. Inspect the fittings for cracks, and check the hose where it fits over the fitting for distortion, which could cause leakage. 9 A small piece of vacuum hose (quarter-inch inside diameter) can be used as a stethoscope to detect vacuum leaks. Hold one end of the hose to your ear, and probe around vacuum hoses and fittings, listening for the “hissing” sound characteristic of a vacuum leak.

Warning: When probing with the vacuum-hose stethoscope, be very careful not to come into

contact with moving engine components such as the auxiliary drivebelt, radiator electric cooling fan, etc.

Fuel hoses

Warning: There are certain

precautions which must be

taken when inspecting or

servicing fuel system components. Work in a well-ventilated area, and do not allow open flames (cigarettes, appliance pilot lights, etc.) or bare light bulbs near the work area. Mop up any spills immediately, and do not store fuel-soaked rags where they could ignite.

10 Check all fuel hoses for deterioration and chafing. Check especially for cracks in areas where the hose bends, and also just before fittings, such as where a hose attaches to the fuel filter. 11 High-quality fuel line, usually identified by the word “Fluoroelastomer” printed on the hose, should be used for fuel line renewal. Never, under any circumstances, use unreinforced vacuum line, clear plastic tubing or water hose for fuel lines. 12 Spring-type clamps are commonly used on fuel lines. These clamps often lose their tension over a period of time, and can be “sprung” during removal. Replace all spring-type clamps with screw clamps whenever a hose is replaced.

Metal lines

13 Sections of metal piping are often used for fuel line between the fuel filter and the engine. Check carefully to be sure the piping has not been bent or crimped, and that cracks have not started in the line. 14 If a section of metal fuel line must be renewed, only seamless steel piping should be used, since copper and aluminium piping don’t have the strength necessary to withstand normal engine vibration.

15 Check the metal brake lines where they enter the master cylinder and ABS hydraulic unit (if used) for cracks in the lines or loose fittings. Any sign of brake fluid leakage calls for an immediate and thorough inspection of the brake system.

6 Engine compartment wiring

check

1 With the vehicle parked on level ground, apply the handbrake firmly and open the bonnet. Using an inspection light or a small electric torch, check all visible wiring within and beneath the engine compartment. 2 What you are looking for is wiring that is obviously damaged by chafing against sharp edges, or against moving suspension/ transmission components and/or the auxiliary drivebelt, by being trapped or crushed between carelessly-refitted components, or melted by being forced into contact with the hot engine castings, coolant pipes, etc. In almost all cases, damage of this sort is caused in the first instance by incorrect routing on reassembly, after previous work has been carried out. 3 Depending on the extent of the problem, damaged wiring may be repaired by rejoining the break or splicing-in a new length of wire, using solder to ensure a good connection, and remaking the insulation with adhesive insulating tape or heat-shrink tubing, as appropriate. If the damage is extensive, given the implications for the vehicle’s future reliability, the best long-term answer may well be to renew that entire section of the loom, however expensive this may appear. 4 When the actual damage has been repaired, ensure that the wiring loom is rerouted correctly, so that it is clear of other components, and not stretched or kinked, and is secured out of harm’s way using the plastic clips, guides and ties provided. 5 Check all electrical connectors, ensuring that they are clean, securely fastened, and that each is locked by its plastic tabs or wire clip, as appropriate. If any connector shows external signs of corrosion (accumulations of white or green deposits, or streaks of “rust”), or if any is thought to be dirty, it must be unplugged and cleaned using electrical contact cleaner. If the connector pins are severely corroded, the connector must be renewed; note that this may mean the renewal of that entire section of the loom - see your local Ford dealer for details. 6 If the cleaner completely removes the corrosion to leave the connector in a satisfactory condition, it would be wise to pack the connector with a suitable material which will exclude dirt and moisture, preventing the corrosion from occurring again; a Ford dealer may be able to recommend a suitable product. 7 Check the condition of the battery

Every 10 000 miles or 12 months 1•13

5.2 Hoses, like drivebelts, have a habit of failing at the worst possible time - to

prevent the inconvenience of a blown radiator or heater hose, inspect them

carefully as shown here

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

connections - remake the connections or renew the leads if a fault is found. Use the same techniques to ensure that all earth points in the engine compartment provide good electrical contact through clean, metalto-metal joints, and that all are securely fastened. (In addition to the earth connection at the engine lifting eye, and that from the transmission to the body/battery, there are others in various places, so check carefully). 8 Refer to Section 21 for details of spark plug (HT) lead checks.

7 Valve clearance adjustment

Refer to Chapter 2, Part A.

8 Manual transmission oil level

check

1 The manual transmission does not have a dipstick. To check the oil level, raise the vehicle and support it securely on axle stands, making sure that the vehicle is level. On the lower front side of the transmission housing, you will see the filler/level plug. Unscrew and remove it - an Allen key or bit will probably be required (see illustration). 2 With the plug removed, check the oil level. To do this accurately, make up an oil level check dipstick from a short length of welding rod or similar material. Make a 90º bend in the rod, then mark the downward leg in 5 mm increments. The dipstick is then inserted through the filler plug orifice so that the unmarked leg rests flat on the plug orifice threads, with the marked leg dipped in the oil. Withdraw the dipstick and read off the level of oil. 3 The oil level must be maintained between 0 and 5 mm below the lower edge of the filler/level plug hole. Top up (if necessary), using fresh transmission oil of the specified type and using a syringe, or a plastic bottle and tube. Refit and tighten the filler/level plug to the specified torque on completion.

4 The need for regular topping-up can only be due to a leak, which should be found and rectified without delay. 5 Regular oil changing is not specified by the manufacturer’s, but the oil can be drained, if required, by removing the selector shaft cap nut and locking assembly.

9 Idle speed and mixture

check and adjustment

General

1 Many of the engines fitted to Fiesta models are equipped with fuel injection systems of one sort or another which are entirely controlled by the engine management system. On most of these vehicles, it isn’t possible to make any adjustments to the idle speed or the mixture settings without specialist test equipment of a type usually only found at a Ford dealer or fuel injection specialist. However, the very nature of these highlysophisticated systems means they don’t go out of tune very often (if ever), so that it’s one less maintenance operation to worry about. 2 On carburettor engines and 1.6 litre EFi fuel injection engines, certain checks and adjustments are necessary as part of the service requirements, and these are described below.

Idle speed and mixture check and adjustment - carburettor engines

Note: Later carburettors are fitted with tamperproof mixture adjusting screws, consisting of a hexagon-shaped socket with a pin in the centre. Such screws require the use of Ford service tool 23-032 to alter their settings; if this tool (or a suitable equivalent) is not available, the CO level will have to be checked, and any necessary adjustment will have to be made, by a Ford dealer.

3 Before carrying out the following checks and adjustments, ensure that the spark plugs are in good condition and correctly gapped (Section 21). To carry out the

checks/adjustments, an accurate tachometer and an exhaust gas analyser (CO meter) will be required. 4 Make sure that all electrical components are switched off during the following procedures. 5 Connect a tachometer to the engine in accordance with its manufacturer’s instructions, and insert the probe of an exhaust gas analyser (CO meter) into the exhaust tailpipe. As previously mentioned, these items are essential in obtaining an accurate setting. If they are not available, an approximate check/adjustment can be made as a temporary measure, providing they are further checked out as soon as is possible using a tachometer and a CO meter (or by a Ford dealer). 6 Run the engine at a fast idle speed until it reaches its normal operating temperature and the radiator cooling fan cuts in. Turn the engine off, then disconnect the radiator cooling fan lead at the thermostatic switch connector. Now connect a temporary wire to the fan switch multi-plug, as shown (see illustration) to enable the fan to operate continuously during the following checks and adjustments (if this is specified). Take care to keep clear of the fan during the following operations when working in the engine compartment. 7 Where fitted, disconnect the throttle kicker vacuum pipe, and plug the end. To identify the throttle kicker unit, refer to Chapter 4A. 8 Check that the vehicle lighting and other electrical loadings (apart from the radiator cooling fan) are switched off, then restart the engine. Increase the engine speed to 3000 rpm for 30 seconds, and repeat this at three-minute intervals during the check/adjustment procedures. This will ensure that any excess fuel is cleared from the inlet manifold. 9 Ensure that the throttle is fully released, allow the meters to stabilise for a period of 5 to 30 seconds is normally sufficient, then check the idle speed against that specified. If adjustment is necessary, turn the idle speed adjusting screw until the engine is idling at the specified speed (see illustrations). Any checks and adjustments must be completed within 30 seconds of the meters stabilising.

1•14 Every 10 000 miles or 12 months

9.9a Idle speed adjusting screw (A) and

mixture adjusting screw (B) (Weber TLM

carburettor)

9.6 Cooling fan thermostatic switch multiplug with temporary bridging wire

connected

8.1 Manual transmission oil level/filler plug (A), and selector shaft cap nut (B)

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

10 If adjustment to the mixture is required, the tamperproof cap will need to be removed from the carburettor to gain access to the mixture screw. To do this, first unclip the fuel trap from the side of the air cleaner unit, then remove the air cleaner unit, ensuring that the crankcase ventilation trap remains connected. Prise free the tamperproof cap (with the aid of a thin-bladed screwdriver), then with the vacuum and emissions control pipes connected to it, relocate the air cleaner unit temporarily into position. 11 Turn the mixture adjustment screw clockwise to weaken the mixture, or anti-clockwise to richen it, until the CO reading is as given in the Specifications. If a CO meter is not being used, weaken the mixture as described, then enrich the mixture

until the maximum engine speed is obtained, consistent with even running. 12 If necessary, re-adjust the idle speed then check the CO reading again. Repeat as necessary until both the idle speed and CO reading are correct. 13 Where required by law (as in some European countries), fit a new tamperproof cap to the mixture adjustment screw. 14 Disconnect the tachometer and the CO meter, refit the air cleaner unit, and reconnect the fan switch lead to complete.

Base idle speed and mixture check and adjustment - 1.6 litre EFi engines

15 Proceed as described above in paragraphs 3 to 6 inclusive, then continue as follows. 16 Run the engine at a fast idle speed until it reaches its normal operating temperature and the cooling fan cuts in. Check the CO content of the exhaust, and compare it against the specified reading. If the CO content reading is incorrect, it can be adjusted by prising free the tamperproof cap for access to the mixture CO adjustment screw (see illustration), and turning the screw in the required direction to suit. 17 The operational idle speed is controlled by the EEC IV engine management module and is not adjustable. However, if the base idle speed is incorrect, the module will not have an accurate datum point from which to establish

the normal operational idle speed. If idle problems have been experienced, the base idle speed should be checked as follows. 18 Disconnect the multi-plug from the idle speed control valve and increase the engine speed to 2000 rpm, hold it at that speed for 30 seconds, then fully release the throttle and check if the base idle speed registered is as specified. 19 If adjustment is necessary, prise free the tamperproof plug using a suitable small screwdriver to gain access to the base idle speed adjustment screw in the throttle body. Turn the screw in the required direction to adjust the base idle speed to the specified amount. Turning the screw anti-clockwise increases the idle speed (see illustration). 20 Increase the engine speed to 2000 rpm again, hold it at that speed for 30 seconds, then fully release the throttle once more. Check and further adjust the base idle speed if required, then fit a new tamperproof plug into position. 21 Reconnect the idle speed control valve multi-plug and check that the engine speed briefly rises to about 900 rpm, then drops down to the specified normal idle speed. 22 On completion, disconnect the tachometer and the CO meter, but continue running the engine at idle speed for a period of about five minutes, to enable the engine management module to relearn its values before switching it off.

10 Steering, suspension and

roadwheel check

Front suspension and steering check

1 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the front of the car and support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). 2 Visually inspect the balljoint dust covers and the steering gear gaiters for splits, chafing or deterioration (see illustrations). Any wear of these components will cause loss of

Every 10 000 miles or 12 months 1•15

9.9d Idle speed mixture adjusting

screw (A) and idle speed adjusting screw

(B) (Weber TLD carburettor)

9.9c Idle speed mixture adjusting

screw (A) and idle speed adjusting screw

(B) (Weber DFTM carburettor)

9.9b Idle speed adjusting screw (A) and

mixture adjusting screw (B) (Weber TLDM

carburettor)

10.2a Check the condition of the track rod end balljoint dust cover (arrowed)

9.19 Base idle speed adjustment screw (arrowed) on the 1.6 litre EFi engine

9.16 Adjusting the idle mixture CO content on the 1.6 litre EFi engine

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

lubricant, together with dirt and water entry, resulting in rapid deterioration of the balljoints or steering gear. 3 Check the power-assisted steering fluid hoses (where fitted) for chafing or deterioration, and the pipe and hose unions for fluid leaks. Also check for signs of fluid leakage under pressure from the steering gear rubber gaiters, which would indicate failed fluid seals within the steering gear. 4 Grasp the roadwheel at the 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock positions, and try to rock it. Very slight free play may be felt, but if the movement is appreciable, further investigation is necessary to determine the source. Continue rocking the wheel while an assistant depresses the footbrake. If the movement is now eliminated or significantly reduced, it is likely that the hub bearings are at fault. If the free play is still evident with the footbrake depressed, then there is wear in the suspension joints or mountings. 5 Now grasp the wheel at the 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock positions, and try to rock it as before. Any movement felt now may again be caused by wear in the hub bearings or the steering track rod balljoints. If the outer track rod end balljoint is worn, the visual movement will be obvious. If the inner joint is suspect, it can be felt by placing a hand over the rack-andpinion rubber gaiter, and gripping the track rod. If the wheel is now rocked, movement will be felt at the inner joint if wear has taken place. 6 Using a large screwdriver or flat bar, check for wear in the suspension mounting bushes by levering between the relevant suspension component and its attachment point. Some movement is to be expected, as the mountings are made of rubber, but excessive wear should be obvious. Also check the condition of any visible rubber bushes, looking for splits, cracks or contamination of the rubber. 7 With the vehicle standing on its wheels, have an assistant turn the steering wheel back-and-forth, about an eighth of a turn each way. There should be very little, if any, lost movement between the steering wheel and roadwheels. If this is not the case, closely observe the joints and mountings previously

described, but in addition, check the steering column universal joints for wear, and also check the rack-and-pinion steering gear itself.

Rear suspension check

8 Chock the front wheels then jack up the rear of the car and support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove the rear roadwheels. 9 Check the rear hub bearings for wear, using the method described for the front hub bearings (paragraph 4). 10 Using a large screwdriver or flat bar, check for wear in the suspension mounting bushes by levering between the relevant suspension component and its attachment point. Some movement is to be expected, as the mountings are made of rubber, but excessive wear should be obvious. Check the condition of the shock absorbers and their bushes/mountings. On Van models, check the leaves of the leaf springs for signs of cracking, distortion, or other damage.

Roadwheel check and balancing

11 Periodically remove the roadwheels, and clean any dirt or mud from the inside and outside surfaces. Examine the wheel rims for signs of rusting, corrosion or other damage. Light alloy wheels are easily damaged by “kerbing” whilst parking, and similarly, steel wheels may become dented or buckled. Renewal of the wheel is very often the only course of remedial action possible. 12 The balance of each wheel and tyre assembly should be maintained, not only to avoid excessive tyre wear, but also to avoid wear in the steering and suspension components. Wheel imbalance is normally signified by vibration through the vehicle’s bodyshell, although in many cases it is particularly noticeable through the steering wheel. Conversely, it should be noted that wear or damage in suspension or steering components may cause excessive tyre wear. Out-of-round or out-of-true tyres, damaged wheels and wheel bearing wear/ maladjustment also fall into this category. Balancing will not usually cure vibration caused by such wear. 13 Wheel balancing may be carried out with the wheel either on or off the vehicle. If

balanced on the vehicle, ensure that the wheel-to-hub relationship is marked in some way prior to subsequent wheel removal, so that it may be refitted in its original position.

11 Driveshaft rubber gaiter and

CV joint check

1 The driveshaft rubber gaiters are very important, because they prevent dirt, water and foreign material from entering and damaging the constant velocity (CV) joints. External contamination can cause the gaiter material to deteriorate prematurely, so it’s a good idea to wash the gaiters with soap and water occasionally. 2 With the vehicle raised and securely supported on axle stands, turn the steering onto full-lock, then slowly rotate each front wheel in turn. Inspect the condition of the outer constant velocity (CV) joint rubber gaiters, squeezing the gaiters to open out the folds. Check for signs of cracking, splits, or deterioration of the rubber, which may allow the escape of grease, and lead to the ingress of water and grit into the joint (see illustration). Also check the security and condition of the retaining clips. Repeat these checks on the inner CV joints. If any damage or deterioration is found, the gaiters should be renewed as described in Chapter 8. 3 At the same time, check the general condition of the outer CV joints themselves, by first holding the driveshaft and attempting to rotate the wheels. Any appreciable movement in the CV joint indicates wear in the joint, wear in the driveshaft splines, or a loose driveshaft retaining nut. Repeat this check on the inner joints, by holding the inner joint yoke and attempting to rotate the driveshaft.

12 Exhaust system check

1 With the engine cold (at least three hours after the vehicle has been driven), check the complete exhaust system, from its starting

1•16 Every 10 000 miles or 12 months

11.2 Check the driveshaft gaiters by hand for cracks and/or leaking grease

10.2c Check the condition of the steering rack gaiters

10.2b Check the condition of the lower arm balljoint dust cover (arrowed)

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

point at the engine to the end of the tailpipe. Ideally, this should be done on a hoist, where unrestricted access is available; if a hoist is not available, raise and support the vehicle on axle stands. 2 Check the pipes and connections for evidence of leaks, severe corrosion, or damage. Make sure that all brackets and rubber mountings are in good condition, and tight; if any of the mountings are to be renewed, ensure that the replacements are of the correct type (see illustration). Leakage at any of the joints or in other parts of the system will usually show up as a black sooty stain in the vicinity of the leak. Note: Exhaust sealants

should not be used on any part of the exhaust system upstream of the catalytic converter even if the sealant does not contain additives harmful to the converter, pieces of it may break off and foul the element, causing local overheating.

3 At the same time, inspect the underside of the body for holes, corrosion, open seams, etc, which may allow exhaust gases to enter the passenger compartment. Seal all body openings with silicone or body putty. 4 Rattles and other noises can often be traced to the exhaust system, especially the rubber mountings. Try to move the system, silencer(s) and catalytic converter. If any components can touch the body or suspension parts, secure the exhaust system with new mountings. 5 Check the running condition of the engine by inspecting inside the end of the tailpipe; the exhaust deposits here are an indication of the engine’s state of tune. The inside of the tailpipe should be dry, and should vary in colour from dark grey to light grey/brown; if it is black and sooty, or coated with white deposits, the engine is in need of a thorough fuel system inspection.

13 Underbody and fuel/brake

line check

1 With the vehicle raised and supported on axle stands or over an inspection pit, thoroughly inspect the underbody and wheel arches for signs of damage and corrosion. In particular, examine the bottom of the side sills, and any concealed areas where mud can collect. Where corrosion and rust is evident, press and tap firmly on the panel with a screwdriver, and check for any serious corrosion which would necessitate repairs. If the panel is not seriously corroded, clean away the rust, and apply a new coating of underseal. Refer to Chapter 11 for more details of body repairs. 2 At the same time, inspect the PVC-coated lower body panels for stone damage and general condition. 3 Inspect all of the fuel and brake lines on the underbody for damage, rust, corrosion and leakage. Also make sure that they are

correctly supported in their clips. Where applicable, check the PVC coating on the lines for damage.

14 Brake check

Note: For detailed photographs of the brake system, refer to Chapter 9.

1 The work described in this Section should be carried out at the specified intervals, or whenever a defect is suspected in the braking system. Any of the following symptoms could indicate a potential brake system defect:

a) The vehicle pulls to one side when the

brake pedal is depressed.

b) The brakes make scraping or dragging

noises when applied. c) Brake pedal travel is excessive. d) The brake fluid requires repeated topping-

up.

2 A thorough inspection should be made to confirm the thickness of the linings, as follows.

Front brakes

3 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the front of the car and support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). 4 For better access to the brake calipers, remove the wheels. 5 Look through the inspection window in the caliper, and check that the thickness of the friction lining material on each of the pads is not less than the recommended minimum thickness given in the Specifications. Note:

Bear in mind that the lining material is normally bonded to a metal backing plate.

6 If it is difficult to determine the exact thickness of the pad linings, or if you are at all concerned about the condition of the pads, then remove them from the calipers for further inspection (refer to Chapter 9). 7 Check the remaining brake caliper in the same way. 8 If any one of the brake pads has worn down

to, or below, the specified limit, all four pads must be renewed as a set. 9 Measure the thickness of the discs with a micrometer, if available, to make sure that they still have service life remaining. If any disc is thinner than the specified minimum thickness, renew it (refer to Chapter 9). In any case, check the general condition of the discs. Look for excessive scoring and discolouration caused by overheating. If these conditions exist, remove the relevant disc and have it resurfaced or renewed (refer to Chapter 9). 10 Before refitting the wheels and lowering the car, check all brake lines and hoses (refer to Chapter 9). In particular, check the flexible hoses in the vicinity of the calipers, where they are subjected to most movement. Bend them between the fingers (but do not actually bend them double, or the casing may be damaged) and check that this does not reveal previously-hidden cracks, cuts or splits.

Rear brakes

11 Chock the front wheels then jack up the rear of the car and support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). 12 For better access, remove the rear wheels. 13 To check the brake shoe lining thickness without removing the brake drums, prise the rubber plugs from the backplates, and use an electric torch and mirror to inspect the linings of the leading brake shoes. Check that the thickness of the lining material on the brake shoes is not less than the recommendation given in the Specifications. 14 If it is difficult to determine the exact thickness of the brake shoe linings, or if you are at all concerned about the condition of the shoes, then remove the rear drums for a more comprehensive inspection (refer to Chapter 9). 15 With the drum removed, check the shoe return and hold-down springs for correct installation, and check the wheel cylinders for leakage of brake fluid. Check the friction surface of the brake drums for scoring and discoloration. If excessive, the drum should be resurfaced or renewed. 16 Before refitting the wheels, check all brake lines and hoses (refer to Chapter 9). On completion, apply the handbrake and check that the rear wheels are locked. The handbrake also requires periodic adjustment, and if its travel seems excessive, refer to Section 27.

15 Roadwheel nut tightness

check

1 Apply the handbrake. 2 Remove the wheel covers, using the flat

end of the wheelbrace supplied in the tool kit (on some models it will be necessary to unscrew the retaining bolts with a special key).

Every 10 000 miles or 12 months 1•17

12.2 Ensure that the exhaust system rubber mountings replacements are of the correct type - their colour is a good guide.

Those nearest to the catalytic converter

are more heat-resistant than the others

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

3 Check that the roadwheel nuts are tightened to the specified torque wrench setting.

4 Refit the wheel covers.

16 Door, tailgate and bonnet

check and lubrication

1 Check that the doors and tailgate/boot lid close securely. Check that the bonnet safety catch operates correctly. Check the operation of the door check straps. 2 Lubricate the hinges, door check straps, the striker plates and the bonnet catch sparingly with a little oil or grease.

17 Seat belt check

1 Check the seat belts for satisfactory operation and condition. Inspect the webbing for fraying and cuts. Check that they retract smoothly and without binding into their reels. 2 Check that the seat belt mounting bolts are tight, and if necessary tighten them to the specified torque wrench settings as given in Chapter 11.

18 Bodywork, paint and exterior

trim check

1 The best time to carry out this check is after the car has been washed so that any surface blemish or scratch will be clearly evident and not hidden by a film of dirt. 2 Starting at one front corner check the paintwork all around the car, looking for minor scratches or more serious dents. Check all the trim and make sure that it is securely attached over its entire length. 3 Check the security of all door locks, door mirrors, badges, bumpers, front grille and wheel trim. Anything found loose, or in need of further attention should be done with reference to the relevant Chapters of this manual. 4 Rectify any problems noticed with the paintwork or body panels as described in Chapter 11.

19 Road test

Check the operation and performance of the braking system

1 Make sure that the vehicle does not pull to one side when braking, and that the wheels do not lock prematurely when braking hard. 2 Check that there is no vibration through the steering when braking.

3 Check that the handbrake operates correctly, without excessive movement of the lever, and that it holds the vehicle stationary on a slope. 4 Test the operation of the brake servo unit as follows. With the engine switched off, depress the footbrake four or five times to exhaust the vacuum, then hold the pedal depressed. Start the engine, and there should be a noticeable “give” in the brake pedal as vacuum builds up. Allow the engine to run for at least two minutes, and then switch it off. If the brake pedal is depressed again, it should be possible to detect a hiss from the servo as the pedal is depressed. After about four or five applications, no further hissing should be heard, and the pedal should feel considerably firmer.

Steering and suspension

5 Check for any abnormalities in the steering, suspension, handling or road “feel”. 6 Drive the vehicle, and check that there are no unusual vibrations or noises. 7 Check that the steering feels positive, with no excessive sloppiness or roughness, and check for any suspension noises when cornering and driving over bumps.

Drivetrain

8 Check the performance of the engine, transmission and driveshafts. 9 Check that the engine starts correctly, both when cold and when hot. 10 Listen for any unusual noises from the engine and transmission. 11 Make sure that the engine runs smoothly when idling, and that there is no hesitation when accelerating. 12 On manual transmission models, check that all gears can be engaged smoothly without noise, and that the gear lever action is not abnormally vague or “notchy”. 13 On automatic transmission models, make sure that the drive seems smooth without jerks or engine speed “flare-ups”. Check that all the gear positions can be selected with the vehicle at rest. If any problems are found, they should be referred to a Ford dealer. 14 Listen for a metallic clicking sound from the front of the vehicle, as the vehicle is driven slowly in a circle with the steering on full-lock. Carry out this check in both directions. If a clicking noise is heard, this indicates wear in a driveshaft joint, in which case renew the joint if necessary.

Clutch

15 Check that the clutch pedal moves smoothly and easily through its full travel, and that the clutch itself functions correctly, with no trace of slip or drag. If the movement is uneven or stiff in places, check that the cable is routed correctly, with no sharp turns. 16 Inspect both ends of the clutch inner cable, both at the transmission end and inside the car, for signs of wear and fraying.

Instruments and electrical equipment

17 Check the operation of all instruments and electrical equipment. 18 Make sure that all instruments read correctly, and switch on all electrical equipment in turn, to check that it functions properly.

20 Automatic transmission fluid

level check

1 The level of the automatic transmission fluid should be carefully maintained. Low fluid level can lead to slipping or loss of drive, while overfilling can cause foaming, loss of fluid and transmission damage. 2 The transmission fluid level should only be checked when the transmission is hot (at its normal operating temperature). If the vehicle has just been driven over 10 miles (15 miles in a cold climate), and the fluid temperature is 60 to 70ºC, the transmission is hot.

Caution: If the vehicle has just been driven for a long time at high speed or in city traffic in hot weather, or if it has been pulling a trailer, an accurate fluid level reading cannot be obtained. In these circumstances, allow the fluid to cool down for about 30 minutes.

3 Park the vehicle on level ground, apply the handbrake, and start the engine. While the engine is idling, depress the brake pedal and move the selector lever through all the gear positions three times, beginning and ending in “P”. 4 Allow the engine to idle for one minute, then (with the engine still idling) remove the dipstick from its tube. Note the condition and colour of the fluid on the dipstick. 5 Wipe the fluid from the dipstick with a clean rag, and re-insert it into the filler tube until the cap seats. 6 Pull the dipstick out again, and note the fluid level. The level should be between the “MIN” and “MAX” marks. If the level is on the “MIN” mark, stop the engine, and add the specified automatic transmission fluid through the dipstick tube, using a clean funnel if necessary. It is important not to introduce dirt into the transmission when topping-up. 7 Add the fluid a little at a time, and keep checking the level as previously described until it is correct. The difference between the “MIN” and “MAX” marks on the dipstick is approximately 0.4 litres. 8 The need for regular topping-up of the transmission fluid indicates a leak, which should be found and rectified without delay. 9 The condition of the fluid should also be checked along with the level. If the fluid on the dipstick is black or a dark reddish-brown colour, or if it has a burned smell, the fluid should be changed. If you are in doubt about the condition of the fluid, purchase some new fluid, and compare the two for colour and smell.

1•18 Every 10 000 miles or 12 months

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

21 Spark plug renewal and HT

component check

Note: Spark plug renewal at this service interval is only necessary on the HCS, CVH and PTE engines. On Zetec engines, the recommended interval for spark plug renewal is every 30 000 miles or three years.

Spark plug check and renewal

1 It is vital for the correct running, full performance and proper economy of the engine that the spark plugs perform with maximum efficiency. The most important factor in ensuring this is that the plugs fitted are appropriate for the engine. The suitable type is given in the Specifications Section at the beginning of this Chapter, on the Vehicle Emissions Control Information (VECI) label located on the underside of the bonnet (only on models sold in some areas) or in the vehicle’s Owner’s Handbook. If the correct type is used and the engine is in good condition, the spark plugs should not need attention between scheduled renewal intervals. Spark plug cleaning is rarely necessary, and should not be attempted unless specialised equipment is available, as damage can easily be caused to the firing ends. 2 Spark plug removal and refitting requires a spark plug socket, with an extension which can be turned by a ratchet handle or similar. This socket is lined with a rubber sleeve, to protect the porcelain insulator of the spark plug, and to hold the plug while you insert it into the spark plug hole. You will also need a set of feeler gauges, to check the spark plug electrode gap, and a torque wrench to tighten the new plugs to the specified torque (see illustration). 3 To remove the spark plugs, first open the bonnet; the plugs are easily reached at the top of the engine. Note how the spark plug (HT) leads are routed and secured by clips, and on some engines, how they’re positioned along the channel in the cylinder head cover. To prevent the possibility of mixing up spark plug (HT) leads, it is a good idea to try to work on one spark plug at a time. 4 If the marks on the original-equipment spark plug (HT) leads cannot be seen, mark the leads 1 to 4, to correspond to the cylinder the lead serves (No 1 cylinder is at the timing belt/chain end of the engine). Pull the leads from the plugs by gripping the rubber boot, not the lead, otherwise the lead connection may be fractured. 5 It is advisable to soak up any liquid in the spark plug recesses with a rag, and to remove any dirt from them using a clean brush, vacuum cleaner or compressed air before removing the plugs, to prevent any dirt or water from dropping into the cylinders.

Warning: Wear eye protection when using compressed air!

6 Unscrew the spark plugs, ensuring that the socket is kept in alignment with each plug - if the socket is forcibly moved to either side, the porcelain top of the plug may be broken off. If any undue difficulty is encountered when unscrewing any of the spark plugs, carefully check the cylinder head threads and tapered sealing surfaces for signs of wear, excessive corrosion or damage; if any of these conditions is found, seek the advice of a Ford dealer as to the best method of repair. 7 As each plug is removed, examine it as follows - this will give a good indication of the condition of the engine. If the insulator nose is covered with light tan to greyish-brown deposits, then the mixture is correct, and it is likely that the engine is in good condition. 8 If the tip and insulator nose are covered with hard black-looking deposits, then this is indicative that the mixture is too rich. Should the plug be black and oily, then it is likely that the engine is fairly worn, as well as the mixture being too rich. 9 If the insulator nose of the spark plug is

clean and white, with no deposits, this is indicative of a weak mixture. 10 If you are renewing the spark plugs, purchase the new plugs, then check each of them first for faults such as cracked insulators or damaged threads. Note also that, whenever the spark plugs are renewed as a routine service operation, the spark plug (HT) leads should be checked as described below. 11 The spark plug electrode gap is of considerable importance as, if it is too large or too small, the size of the spark and its efficiency will be seriously impaired. The gap should be set to the value given in the Specifications Section of this Chapter. New plugs will not necessarily be set to the correct gap, so they should always be checked before fitting. 12 The spark plug gap is correct when the correct-size feeler gauge or wire gauge is a firm sliding fit between the electrodes (see

illustrations). 13 To adjust the electrode gap, bend open, or

close up, the outer plug electrode until the correct gap is achieved (see illustration). The centre electrode should never be bent, as this may crack the insulation and cause plug failure,

Every 20 000 miles (32 000 km) or two years, whichever comes first

Every 20 000 miles or two years 1•19

21.12b Spark plug manufacturers

recommend using a wire-type gauge when checking the gap - if the wire or feeler gauge does not slide between the electrodes with a

slight drag, adjustment is required

21.12a Measuring a spark plug gap with a feeler gauge

21.2 Tools required for changing spark plugs

21.13 To change the gap, bend the outer electrode only, and be very careful not to

crack or chip the porcelain insulator

surrounding the centre electrode

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

if nothing worse. If the outer electrode is not exactly over the centre electrode, bend it gently to align them. Special spark plug gap adjusting tools are available from motor accessory shops, or from certain spark plug manufacturers. 14 Before fitting the spark plugs, check that the threaded connector sleeves at the top of the plugs are tight, and that the plug exterior surfaces and threads are clean. Brown staining on the porcelain, immediately above the metal body, is quite normal, and does not necessarily indicate a “leak” between the body and insulator. 15 Apply a smear of copper-based grease or anti-seize compound to the threads of each plug, and screw them in by hand where possible. Take extra care to enter the plug threads correctly, as the cylinder head is of aluminium alloy.

16 When each spark plug is started correctly on its threads, screw it down until it just seats lightly, then tighten it to the specified torque wrench setting. If a torque wrench is not available - and this is one case where the use of a torque wrench is strongly recommended tighten each spark plug through no more than 1/4 of a turn (CVH and PTE engines) or 1/16 of a turn (HCS and Zetec engines) after it seats. HCS and Zetec engines are fitted with taper-seat spark plugs, identifiable by not having a sealing washer, and these in particular should NEVER be overtightened - their tapered seats mean they are almost impossible to remove if abused. 17 Reconnect the spark plug (HT) leads in their correct order, using a twisting motion on the boot until it is firmly seated on the end of the spark plug and on the cylinder head cover.

Spark plug (HT) lead, distributor cap and rotor arm check

18 The spark plug (HT) leads should be checked whenever the plugs themselves are

renewed. Start by making a visual check of the leads while the engine is running. In a darkened garage (make sure there is ventilation) start the engine and observe each lead. Be careful not to come into contact with any moving engine parts. If there is a break in the lead, you will see arcing or a small spark at the damaged area. 19 The spark plug (HT) leads should be inspected one at a time, to prevent mixing up the firing order, which is essential for proper engine operation. Each original lead should be numbered to identify its cylinder. If the number is illegible, a piece of tape can be marked with the correct number, and wrapped around the lead (the leads should be numbered 1 to 4, with No 1 lead nearest the timing belt end of the engine). The lead can then be disconnected. 20 Check inside the boot for corrosion, which will look like a white crusty powder. Clean this off as much as possible; if it is excessive, or if cleaning leaves the metal connector too badly eroded to be fit for further use, the lead must be renewed. Push the lead and boot back onto the end of the spark plug. The boot should fit tightly onto the end of the plug - if it doesn’t, remove the lead and use pliers carefully to crimp the metal connector inside the boot until the fit is snug. 21 Using a clean rag, wipe the entire length of the lead to remove built-up dirt and grease. Once the lead is clean, check for burns, cracks and other damage. Do not bend the lead sharply, because the conductor might break. 22 Disconnect the lead from the ignition coil by pressing together the plastic retaining catches (where fitted) and pulling the end fitting off the coil terminal. Check for corrosion and for a tight fit. If a meter with the correct measuring range is available, measure the resistance of the disconnected lead from its coil connector to its spark plug connector. If the resistance recorded for any of the leads exceeds the value specified, all the leads should be renewed as a set. Refit the lead to the coil, noting that each coil terminal is marked with its respective cylinder number, so that there is no risk of mixing up the leads and upsetting the firing order. 23 Inspect the remaining spark plug (HT) leads, ensuring that each is securely fastened at the distributor cap or ignition coil and spark plug when the check is complete. If any sign of arcing, severe connector corrosion, burns, cracks or other damage is noticed, obtain new spark plug (HT) leads, renewing them as a set. If new spark plug leads are to be fitted, remove and refit them one at a time, to avoid mix-ups in the firing order.

24 On models with distributor ignition systems, refer to Chapter 5B and remove the distributor cap then thoroughly clean it inside and out with a dry lint-free rag. 25 Examine the HT lead segments inside the cap. If they appear badly burned or pitted renew the cap. Also check the carbon brush in the centre of the cap, ensuring that it is free to move and stands proud of its holder. Make sure that there are no sign of cracks or black “tracking” lines running down the inside of the cap, which will also mean renewal if evident. 26 Inspect the rotor arm checking it for security and also for signs of deterioration as described above. 27 Refit the cap as described in Chapter 5B on completion.

22 Idle speed control valve

cleaning and maintenance

Note: The idle speed control valve may be mounted on the air cleaner, on the engine compartment bulkhead, or on the side of the inlet manifold according to valve make and year of manufacture. Valves manufactured by Weber are mounted on the air cleaner and only these valves require the periodic maintenance described below. Bulkhead and inlet manifold mounted valves are manufactured by Hitachi and are maintenance free. Refer to the warning note in Section 1 of Chapter 4C before proceeding.

1 Remove the valve as described in Chapter 4C, Section 14. 2 Immerse the valve head in a suitable container filled with clean petrol, and allow it to soak for approximately three minutes. 3 Clean the valve bore, slots and piston with petrol, using a suitable lint-free cloth, then gently move the piston up and down in its bore using a small screwdriver (see illustration). Ensure that no cloth particles enter the bore, and do not use the slots to move the piston. 4 Rinse the valve again with clean petrol, then dry it using an air line (or other source of compressed air).

Warning: Wear eye protection when using compressed air!

5 Clean the mating faces of the valve and the air filter housing then refit as described in Chapter 4C, Section 14.

1•20 Every 20 000 miles or two years

22.3 Gently move the idle speed control

valve piston up and down in its bore using

a small screwdriver (1.6 litre EFi engine)

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

It’s often difficult to insert spark plugs into their holes without cross-threading them. To avoid this possibility, fit a short piece of rubber hose over the end of the spark plug. The flexible hose acts as a universal joint, to help align the plug with the plug hole. Should the plug begin to cross-thread, the hose will slip on the spark plug, preventing thread damage.

If new spark plug leads are to be fitted, remove the leads one at a time and fit each new lead in exactly the same position as the old one.

23 Coolant renewal

Note: If the antifreeze used is Ford’s own, the coolant need not be renewed for the life of the vehicle. If the vehicle’s history is unknown, if antifreeze of lesser quality is known to be in the system, or simply if you prefer to follow conventional servicing intervals, the coolant should be changed periodically (typically, every 3 years) as described here. Refer also to “Antifreeze - notes on renewal” in this Section.

Warning: Do not allow antifreeze to come in contact with your skin or painted

surfaces of the vehicle. Flush contaminated areas immediately with plenty of water. Don’t store new coolant, or leave old coolant lying around, where it’s accessible to children or pets - they’re attracted by its sweet smell. Ingestion of even a small amount of coolant can be fatal! Wipe up garage-floor and drip-pan spills immediately. Keep antifreeze containers covered, and repair cooling system leaks as soon as they’re noticed. Warning: Never remove the expansion tank filler cap when the engine is running, or has just been switched off, as the cooling system will be hot, and the consequent escaping steam and scalding coolant could cause serious injury.

Coolant draining

Warning: Wait until the engine is cold before starting this procedure.

1 To drain the system, first remove the expansion tank filler cap (see “Weekly Checks”). 2 If additional working clearance is required, raise the front of the vehicle and support it

securely on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). 3 Place a large drain tray beneath the radiator, and unscrew the radiator drain plug you can use a small coin to do this, as the plug’s slotted for this purpose (see illustration). Direct as much of the escaping coolant as possible into the tray.

System flushing

4 With time, the cooling system may gradually lose its efficiency, as the radiator core becomes choked with rust, scale deposits from the water, and other sediment (refer also to “Antifreeze - notes on renewal” later in this Section). To minimise this, as well as using only good-quality antifreeze and clean soft water, the system should be flushed as follows whenever any part of it is disturbed, and/or when the coolant is renewed. 5 With the coolant drained, refit the drain plug, and refill the system with fresh water. Refit the expansion tank filler cap, start the engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature, then stop it and (after allowing it to cool down completely) drain the system again. Repeat as necessary until only clean water can be seen to emerge, then refill finally with the specified coolant mixture as described below. 6 If only clean, soft water and good-quality antifreeze (even if not to Ford’s specification) has been used, and the coolant has been renewed at the suggested intervals, the above procedure will be sufficient to keep the system clean for a considerable length of time. If, however, the system has been neglected, a more thorough operation will be required, as follows. 7 First drain the coolant, then disconnect the radiator top and bottom hoses. Insert a garden hose into the top hose, and allow water to circulate through the radiator until it runs clean from the bottom outlet. 8 To flush the engine, insert the garden hose into the thermostat water outlet, and allow water to circulate until it runs clear from the bottom hose. If, after a reasonable period, the water still does not run clear, the radiator should be flushed with a good proprietary cleaning agent. 9 In severe cases of contamination, reverseflushing of the radiator may be necessary. To do this, remove the radiator (Chapter 3), invert it, and insert the garden hose into the bottom outlet. Continue flushing until clear water runs from the top hose outlet. A similar procedure can be used to flush the heater matrix. 10 The use of chemical cleaners should be necessary only as a last resort. Normally, regular renewal of the coolant will prevent excessive contamination of the system.

Coolant filling

11 With the cooling system drained and flushed, ensure that all disturbed hose unions are correctly secured, and that the radiator drain plug is securely tightened. If it was raised, lower the vehicle to the ground. 12 Prepare a sufficient quantity of the specified coolant mixture (see below); allow for a surplus, so as to have a reserve supply for topping-up. 13 Slowly fill the system through the expansion tank; since the tank is the highest point in the system, all the air in the system should be displaced into the tank by the rising liquid. Slow pouring reduces the possibility of air being trapped and forming airlocks. 14 Continue filling until the coolant level reaches the expansion tank “MAX” level line, then cover the filler opening to prevent coolant splashing out. 15 Start the engine and run it at idle speed, until it has warmed-up to normal operating temperature and the radiator cooling fan has cut in; watch the temperature gauge to check for signs of overheating. If the level in the expansion tank drops significantly, top-up to the “MAX” level line, to minimise the amount of air circulating in the system. 16 Stop the engine, allow it to cool down completely (overnight, if possible), then uncover the expansion tank filler opening and top-up the tank to the “MAX” level line. Refit the filler cap, tightening it securely, and wash off any spilt coolant from the engine compartment and bodywork. 17 After refilling, always check carefully all components of the system (but especially any unions disturbed during draining and flushing) for signs of coolant leaks. Fresh antifreeze has a searching action, which will rapidly expose any weak points in the system. 18 If, after draining and refilling the system, symptoms of overheating are found which did not occur previously, then the fault is almost certainly due to trapped air at some point in the system, causing an airlock and restricting the flow of coolant; usually, the air is trapped because the system was refilled too quickly. In some cases, airlocks can be released by tapping or squeezing the various hoses. If the problem persists, stop the engine and allow it to cool down completely, before unscrewing the expansion tank filler cap or disconnecting hoses to bleed out the trapped air.

Antifreeze mixture

19 If the antifreeze used is not to Ford’s specification, it should always be renewed at the suggested intervals (typically, every 2 or 3 years). This is necessary not only to maintain the antifreeze properties, but also to prevent

Every 30 000 miles (48 000 km) or three years, whichever comes first

Every 30 000 miles or three years 1•21

23.3 Drain plug location at the base of the radiator - use a coin to unscrew the plug

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

the corrosion which would otherwise occur as the corrosion inhibitors become progressively less effective. Always use an ethylene glycol-based antifreeze which is suitable for use in mixed-metal cooling systems. 20 If the antifreeze used is to Ford’s specification, the levels of protection it affords are indicated in the Specifications Section of this Chapter. To give the recommended standard mixture ratio for this antifreeze, 40% (by volume) of antifreeze must be mixed with 60% of clean, soft water; if you are using any other type of antifreeze, follow its manufacturer’s instructions to achieve the correct ratio. It is best to make up slightly more than the system’s specified capacity, so that a supply is available for subsequent topping-up. 21 Before adding antifreeze, the cooling system should be completely drained, preferably flushed, and all hoses checked for condition and security. As noted earlier, fresh antifreeze will rapidly find any weaknesses in the system. 22 After filling with antifreeze, a label should be attached to the expansion tank, stating the type and concentration of antifreeze used, and the date installed. Any subsequent topping-up should be made with the same type and concentration of antifreeze. If topping-up using antifreeze to Ford’s specification, note that a 50/50 mixture is permissible, purely for convenience. 23 Do not use engine antifreeze in the windscreen/tailgate washer system, as it will damage the vehicle’s paintwork. A screenwash additive should be added to the washer system in its maker’s recommended quantities.

Antifreeze - notes on renewal

24 Ford state that, where antifreeze to Ford specification ESD-M97B-49-A is used, it will last the lifetime of the vehicle. This is subject to it being used in the recommended concentration, unmixed with any other type of antifreeze or additive, and topped-up when necessary using only that antifreeze mixed

50/50 with clean water. If any other type of antifreeze is added, the lifetime guarantee no longer applies; to restore the lifetime protection, the system must be drained and thoroughly reverse-flushed before fresh coolant mixture is poured in. 25 If the vehicle’s history (and therefore the quality of the antifreeze in it) is unknown, owners who wish to follow Ford’s recommendations are advised to drain and thoroughly reverse-flush the system before refilling with fresh coolant mixture. If the appropriate quality of antifreeze is used, the coolant can then be left for the life of the vehicle. 26 If any antifreeze other than Ford’s is to be used, the coolant must be renewed at regular intervals to provide an equivalent degree of protection; the conventional recommendation is to renew the coolant every two or three years. 27 The above assumes the use of a mixture (in exactly the specified concentration) of clean, soft water and of antifreeze to Ford’s specification or equivalent. It is also assumed that the cooling system is maintained in a scrupulously-clean condition, by ensuring that only clean coolant is added on topping-up, and by thorough reverse-flushing whenever the coolant is drained.

General cooling system checks

28 The engine should be cold for the cooling system checks, so perform the following procedure before driving the vehicle, or after it has been shut off for at least three hours. 29 Remove the expansion tank filler cap, and clean it thoroughly inside and out with a rag. Also clean the filler neck on the expansion tank. The presence of rust or corrosion in the filler neck indicates that the coolant should be changed. The coolant inside the expansion tank should be relatively clean and transparent. If it is rust-coloured, drain and flush the system, and refill with a fresh coolant mixture. 30 Carefully check the radiator hoses and

heater hoses along their entire length; renew any hose which is cracked, swollen or deteriorated (see Section 5). 31 Inspect all other cooling system components (joint faces, etc.) for leaks. A leak in the cooling system will usually show up as white- or rust-coloured deposits on the area adjoining the leak. Where any problems of this nature are found on system components, renew the component or gasket with reference to Chapter 3. 32 Clean the front of the radiator with a soft brush to remove all insects, leaves, etc, embedded in the radiator fins. Be careful not to damage the radiator fins, or cut your fingers on them.

24 Air cleaner element renewal

1 The air cleaner filter element is located in the air cleaner assembly mounted either on top of the carburettor or CFi unit, or on the left-hand or right-hand side of the engine compartment at the front. Remove the air cleaner lid as follows according to type.

Carburettor and CFi fuel injection models

2 Undo the two or three retaining screws on the top of the air cleaner lid (see illustration). 3 Release the clips, and lift off the air cleaner cover (see illustration).

EFi fuel injection models

4 If the idle speed control valve is mounted on the air cleaner, disconnect the multi-plug and the air bypass hose from the valve. 5 Disconnect the flexible hose between the air cleaner lid and the air inlet duct or turbocharger air intake. 6 Release the retaining clips and lift off the air cleaner lid (see illustration).

1•22 Every 30 000 miles or three years

24.6 On EFi fuel injection engines, release the retaining clips and lift off the air

cleaner lid

24.3 . . . then spring back the clips and lift of the lid

24.2 On carburettor and CFi fuel injection engines, undo the air cleaner lid retaining

screws . . .

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

SEFi fuel injection models

7 Disconnect the mass air flow sensor wiring multi-plug (see illustration). 8 Slacken the hose clip and disconnect the flexible rubber intake hose from the black plastic air intake duct (see illustration). 9 Undo the retaining screws or release the clips and lift off the air cleaner lid complete with mass air flow sensor (see illustration).

All models

10 Lift out the element, and wipe out the housing (see illustrations). Check that no foreign matter is visible, either in the air inlet or in the air mass meter, as applicable. 11 If carrying out a routine service, the element must be renewed regardless of its apparent condition. Note that on models so equipped, the small foam PCV filter in the rear right-hand corner of the air cleaner housing must be cleaned whenever the air filter element is renewed (see Section 25). 12 If you are checking the element for any other reason, inspect its lower surface; if it is oily or very dirty, renew the element. If it is only moderately dusty, it can be re-used after blowing it clean from the upper to the lower surface with compressed air.

Warning: Wear eye protection when using compressed air! Because it is a pleated-paper type filter, it cannot be washed or re-oiled. If it cannot be

cleaned satisfactorily with compressed air, discard and renew it. Caution: Never drive the vehicle with the air cleaner filter element removed. Excessive engine wear could result, and backfiring could even cause a fire under the bonnet.

13 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure. Ensure that the element and cover are securely seated, so that unfiltered air cannot enter the engine.

Air cleaner temperature control system check (carburettor models)

14 In order for the engine to operate efficiently, the temperature of the air entering the inlet system must be controlled within certain limits. 15 The air cleaner has two sources of air, one direct from the outside of the engine compartment, and the other from a shroud on the exhaust manifold. On HCS engines, a wax-controlled thermostatic valve controls a flap inside the air cleaner inlet. When the ambient air temperature is below a predetermined level, the flap admits air heated from the exhaust manifold shroud; as the ambient temperature rises, the flap opens to admit more cool air from the engine compartment until eventually it is fully open. A similar system is used on CVH engines, except that a vacuum actuator modifies any

opening or closing action of the temperature sensor on the flap valve, according to the level of the inlet manifold vacuum under running conditions.

HCS engines

16 This check must be made when the

engine is cold. Detach and remove the air cleaner inlet trunking. Examine the position of the check valve within the duct. When the underbonnet air temperature is below 28ºC, the valve must be open to allow hot air to enter the filter (see illustration). 17 Refit the inlet trunking. Start the engine and run it until it reaches its normal operating temperature, then stop the engine, remove the inlet trunking and check that the valve has closed off the air passage from the exhaust and opened the main (cool) air inlet. 18 If the flap does not operate correctly, check that it is not seized. Apart from this there is no adjustment possible, and the unit should be renewed if faulty. Refit the air inlet trunking on completion.

CVH engines

19 This check must be made when the

engine is cold. Disconnect the main air inlet duct, and visibly check that the flap to the hot-air inlet is closed (i.e. open to the passage of cold air). 20 Start the engine, and check that with the

Every 30 000 miles or three years 1•23

24.9 . . . then undo the retaining screws or release the clips and lift off the air cleaner

lid complete with mass air flow sensor

24.8 . . . slacken the hose clip and

disconnect the intake hose from the air

intake duct . . .

24.7 On SEFi fuel injection engines,

disconnect the mass air flow sensor wiring

multi-plug . . .

24.16 Air cleaner inlet and flap valve on the HCS engine

A Main air cleaner inlet (cool air) B Warm air duct (flap open)

24.10b . . . and on EFi and SEFi fuel injection engine models

24.10a Removing the air filter element on carburettor engine models . . .

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

engine idling, the hot-air inlet is open to allow warm air from the exhaust manifold area to enter the air cleaner. If the flap operates as described, it is functioning correctly (see

illustration). 21 If the flap fails to operate as described,

check the condition of the vacuum pipe and its connections, and check that the flap valve has not seized. If these are in order, either the temperature sensor or vacuum actuator is faulty, and a new air cleaner assembly must be obtained. Refit the main air duct on completion.

25 Emission control system

check

General

1 Of the emission control systems that may be fitted, only the crankcase ventilation system and the evaporative emission control systems require regular checking, and even then, the components of these systems require minimal attention. 2 Should it be felt that the other systems are not functioning correctly, the advice of a dealer should be sought.

Crankcase ventilation system

3 The function of the crankcase ventilation system is to reduce the emission of unburned hydrocarbons from the crankcase, and to minimise the formation of oil sludge. By ensuring that a depression is created in the crankcase under most operating conditions, particularly at idle, and by positively inducing fresh air into the system, the oil vapours and “blow-by” gases collected in the crankcase are drawn from the crankcase, through the air cleaner or oil separator, into the inlet tract, to be burned by the engine during normal combustion. 4 On HCS engines, the system consists of a vented oil filler cap (with an integral mesh filter) and a hose connecting it to the oil separator/engine breather valve connector on the underside of the air cleaner housing. A

further hose leads from the adapter/filter to the inlet manifold. 5 On CVH engines, a closed-circuit type crankcase ventilation system is used, the function of which is basically the same as that described for the HCS engine types, but the breather hose connects directly to the rocker cover. A separate filter is fitted in the hose to the rocker cover in certain applications (see

illustration). 6 The system fitted to the PTE engines is

similar to that used on the earlier (CVH) engines on which these engines are based, but with revisions to the hose arrangement to suit the remotely sited air cleaner and fuel injection system layout. 7 On Zetec engines, the crankcase ventilation system main components are the oil separator mounted on the front (radiator) side of the cylinder block/crankcase, and the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve set in a rubber grommet in the separator’s lefthand upper end. The associated pipework consists of a crankcase breather pipe and two flexible hoses connecting the PCV valve to a union on the left-hand end of the inlet manifold, and a crankcase breather hose connecting the cylinder head cover to the air cleaner assembly. A small foam filter in the air cleaner prevents dirt from being drawn directly into the engine. 8 Check that all components of the system are securely fastened, correctly routed (with no kinks or sharp bends to restrict flow) and in sound condition; renew any worn or damaged components. 9 On HCS engines, remove and inspect the oil filler cap to ensure that it is in good condition, and not blocked up with sludge. 10 Disconnect the hoses at the cap, and clean the cap if necessary by brushing the inner mesh filter with petrol, and blowing through with light pressure from an air line. Renew the cap if it is badly congested. 11 If oil leakage is noted, disconnect the various hoses and pipes, and check that all are clear and unblocked. Remove the air cleaner lid, and check that the hose from the cylinder head cover to the air cleaner housing is clear and undamaged.

12 Where fitted, the PCV valve is designed to allow gases to flow out of the crankcase only, so that a depression is created in the crankcase under most operating conditions, particularly at idle. Therefore, if either the oil separator or the PCV valve are thought to be blocked, they must be renewed (see Chapter 4E). In such a case, however, there is nothing to be lost by attempting to flush out the blockage using a suitable solvent. The PCV valve should rattle when shaken. 13 While the air filter element is removed (see Section 24), wipe out the housing, and on Zetec engines, withdraw the small foam filter from its location in the rear right-hand corner of the housing (see illustration). If the foam is badly clogged with dirt or oil, it must be cleaned by soaking it in a suitable solvent, and allowed to dry before being refitted.

Evaporative emission control systems

14 Refer to the checks contained in Chapter 4E.

26 Automatic transmission fluid

renewal

1 The automatic transmission fluid should only be changed when the transmission is cold. 2 Position the vehicle over an inspection pit, on vehicle ramps, or jack it up and securely support it on axle stands, but make sure that it is level. 3 Place a suitable container beneath the drain plug on the transmission sump pan. Remove the transmission fluid dipstick to speed up the draining operation. 4 Thoroughly clean the area around the drain plug in the transmission sump pan, then unscrew the plug and allow the fluid to drain into the container. 5 When all the fluid has drained (this may take quite some time) clean the drain plug, then refit it together with a new seal and tighten it securely. 6 Place a funnel with a fine mesh screen in the dipstick tube, and fill the transmission with

1•24 Every 30 000 miles or three years

25.13 The crankcase ventilation system foam filter is located in the air cleaner

housing on Zetec engines

25.5 Crankcase ventilation system filter on CVH engines

24.20 Air cleaner inlet and flap valve on the CVH engine

A Flap open (cool air inlet closed) B Warm air inlet

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

the specified type of fluid. It is essential that no dirt is introduced into the transmission during this operation. 7 Depending on the extent to which the fluid was allowed to drain, it is possible that the amount of fluid required when filling the transmission may be more than the specified amount (see “Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressures”). However, due to fluid remaining in the system, it is more likely that less than the specified amount will be required. Add about half the specified amount, then run the engine up to its normal operating temperature and check the level on the dipstick. When the level approaches the maximum mark, proceed as detailed in Section 20 to check the level and complete the final topping-up as described.

27 Handbrake adjustment

1 Chock the front wheels then jack up the rear of the car and support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Fully release the handbrake. 2 Check that the handbrake cables are correctly routed and secured by the retaining clips at the appropriate points under the vehicle. 3 The handbrake is checked for adjustment by measuring the amount of movement possible in the handbrake adjuster plungers. These are located on the inside face of each rear brake backplate (see illustration). The

total movement of the two plungers combined should be between 0.5 and 2.0 mm. If the movement measured is outside of this tolerance, the handbrake is in need of adjustment. Adjustment is made altering the position of the in-line cable adjuster sleeve. 4 When adjustment to the handbrake is necessary, a new adjustment sleeve locking pin will be required, and this must therefore be obtained before making the adjustment. 5 To adjust the handbrake, first ensure that it is fully released, then firmly apply the footbrake a few times to ensure that the rear brake adjustment is taken up by the automatic adjusters. Extract the locking pin from the adjuster sleeve (see illustration), then turn the sleeve to set the combined movement of the plungers within the tolerance

range specified (0.5 to 2.0 mm). Turn the locking nut by hand as tight as is possible (two clicks) against the adjustment sleeve. Now grip the locknut with a suitable wrench, and turn it a further two clicks (maximum). 6 Secure the adjustment by inserting the new lock pin. 7 Check that the operation of the handbrake is satisfactory, then lower the vehicle to the ground, apply the handbrake and remove the chocks from the front wheels.

28 Front wheel alignment check

Refer to Chapter 10, Section 29.

Every 30 000 miles or three years 1•25

27.5 Handbrake cable adjuster locking

pin (A), locknut (B) and adjuster sleeve (C)

27.3 Handbrake adjustment plunger

located on the inside face of each rear

brake backplate

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Every 40 000 miles

29 Timing belt renewal

Refer to Chapter 2, Part B or C as

applicable.

Every 60 000 miles

30 Fuel filter renewal

Warning: Petrol is extremely flammable, so extra precautions must be taken when working on

any part of the fuel system. Do not smoke, or allow open flames or bare light bulbs, near the work area. Also, do not work in a garage if a natural gas-type appliance with a pilot light is present. While performing any work on the fuel

system, wear safety glasses, and have a suitable (Class B) fire extinguisher on hand. If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and water.

1 On fuel injection engines, an in-line fuel filter is provided in the fuel pump outlet line. The filter is located in the engine compartment either below and behind the battery, or on the left-hand side of the engine compartment bulkhead. The renewal procedure is the same for both locations. The filter performs a vital role in keeping dirt and other foreign matter out of the fuel system, and so must be

renewed at regular intervals, or whenever you have reason to suspect that it may be clogged. It is always unpleasant working under a vehicle - pressure-washing or hosing clean the underbody in the filter’s vicinity will make working conditions more tolerable, and will reduce the risk of getting dirt into the fuel system. 2 Depressurise the fuel system as described in the relevant Part of Chapter 4. 3 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1), then position a suitable container beneath the fuel filter to catch escaping fuel. Have a rag handy to soak

up the fuel when the feed and outlet pipe unions are disconnected. 4 On models without quick-release couplings on the fuel lines, slowly slacken the fuel feed pipe union allowing the pressure in the fuel pipe to reduce. When the pressure is fully released, disconnect the fuel feed and outlet pipe unions. 5 On models with quick-release couplings on the fuel lines, release the fuel feed and outlet pipe unions from the filter, by squeezing together the protruding locking lugs on each union, and carefully pulling the union off the filter stub (see illustration). Where the unions

are colour-coded, the feed and outlet pipes cannot be confused; where both unions are the same colour, note carefully which pipe is connected to which filter stub, and ensure that they are correctly reconnected on refitting. 6 Noting the arrows and/or other markings on the filter showing the direction of fuel flow (towards the engine), slacken the filter clamp bolt and withdraw the filter from the car (see illustrations). Note that the filter will still contain fuel; care should be taken, to avoid spillage and to minimise the risk of fire. 7 On installation, slide the filter into its clamp so that the arrow marked on it faces the

correct way, then reconnect and tighten the pipe unions or slide each pipe union on to its (correct) respective filter stub, and press it down until the locking lugs click into their groove. Tighten the clamp bolt carefully, until the filter is just prevented from moving; do not overtighten, or the filter casing may be crushed. 8 Refit the fuel pump fuse and reconnect the battery earth terminal, then switch the ignition on and off five times, to pressurise the system. Check for any sign of fuel leakage around the filter unions before lowering the vehicle to the ground and starting the engine.

1•26 Every 60 000 miles

30.6b Removing the bulkhead mounted fuel filter. Clamp bolt (arrowed)

30.6a Fuel filter location below battery

showing clamp bolt (arrowed). Note fuel

flow direction arrows on filter body

30.5 Releasing the fuel pipe unions from the filter on models with quick-release

couplings

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Every 3 years

31 Brake fluid renewal

The procedure is similar to that for the

bleeding of the hydraulic system as described in Chapter 9, except that the brake fluid reservoir should be emptied by syphoning, and allowance should be made for the old fluid to be removed from the circuit when bleeding a section of the circuit.

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

General

Engine type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Four-cylinder, in-line overhead valve

Engine code:

1.0 litre carburettor models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . TLB

1.1 litre carburettor models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . GUE or GUD

1.1 litre CFi fuel injection models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . G6A

1.3 litre carburettor models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . JBC

1.3 litre CFi fuel injection models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . J6B

Capacity:

1.0 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 999 cc

1.1 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1118 cc

1.3 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1297 cc

Bore:

1.0 and 1.1 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68.68 mm

1.3 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73.96 mm

Stroke:

1.0 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67.40 mm

1.1 and 1.3 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75.48 mm

Compression ratio:

Carburettor models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.5:1

CFi fuel injection models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.8:1

Firing order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-2-4-3 (No 1 cylinder at timing chain end)

Direction of crankshaft rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clockwise (seen from right-hand side of vehicle)

Valves

Valve clearance (cold):

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.20 mm

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.30 mm

Chapter 2 Part A:

HCS engine in-car repair procedures

Auxiliary drivebelt check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1

Compression test - description and interpretation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Crankshaft oil seals - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

Crankshaft pulley - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Cylinder head - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Cylinder head rocker cover - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Cylinder head rocker gear - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . 6

Engine oil and filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1

Engine oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See

“Weekly Checks”

Engine/transmission mountings - inspection and renewal . . . . . . . . 15

Flywheel - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Oil pump - dismantling, inspection and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Oil pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

Sump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Timing chain cover - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

Timing chain, sprockets and tensioner - removal, inspection

and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Top Dead Centre (TDC) for No 1 piston - locating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Valve clearances - checking and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

2A•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable for

novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Lubrication

Engine oil type/specification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See “Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressures”

Engine oil capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See “Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressures”

Oil pressure:

At idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.60 bars

At 2000 rpm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.50 bars

Oil pump clearances:

Outer rotor-to-body . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.14 to 0.26 mm

Inner rotor-to-outer rotor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.051 to 0.127 mm

Rotor endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.025 to 0.06 mm

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Camshaft thrust plate bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 4

Camshaft sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 13

Crankshaft pulley bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115 85

Rocker shaft pedestal bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 32

Flywheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 49

Sump:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 5

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7

Stage 3 (with engine warm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7

Oil pressure switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 10

Cylinder head bolts (may be re-used once only):

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 90º

Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 90º

Timing chain tensioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6

Timing chain cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7

Crankshaft rear oil seal housing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 13

Rocker cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 4

Oil pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 13

Oil pump cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7

Engine mountings:

Engine mounting (right-hand):

Bolt to body (in wheel arch) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 to 58 30 to 43

Nut to body (by suspension strut) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 to 58 30 to 43

Bracket to cylinder block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 to 72 40 to 53

Rubber insulator to bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 to 95 52 to 70

Transmission mounting fasteners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Refer to Chapter 7A or 7B

Note: Refer to Part D of this Chapter for remaining torque wrench settings.

2A•2 HCS engine in-car repair procedures

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

1 General information

How to use this Chapter

This Part of Chapter 2 is devoted to repair procedures possible while the engine is still installed in the vehicle, and includes only the Specifications relevant to those procedures. Similar information concerning the 1.4 and

1.6 litre CVH and PTE engines, and the 1.6 and 1.8 litre Zetec engines, will be found in Parts B and C of this Chapter respectively. Since these procedures are based on the assumption that the engine is installed in the vehicle, if the engine has been removed from the vehicle and mounted on a stand, some of the preliminary dismantling steps outlined will not apply.

Information concerning engine/transmission removal and refitting, and engine overhaul, can be found in Part D of this Chapter, which also includes the Specifications relevant to those procedures.

Engine description

The engine is an overhead valve, watercooled, four cylinder in-line design, designated HCS (High Compression Swirl). The engine is mounted transversely at the front of the vehicle together with the transmission to form a combined power unit.

The crankshaft is supported in three or five shell-type main bearings. The connecting rod big-end bearings are also split shell-type, and are attached to the pistons by interference-fit gudgeon pins. Each piston is fitted with two compression rings and one oil control ring.

The camshaft, which runs on bearings within the cylinder block, is chain-driven from the crankshaft, and operates the valves via pushrods and rocker arms. The valves are each closed by a single valve spring, and operate in guides integral in the cylinder head.

The oil pump is mounted externally on the crankcase, incorporates a full-flow oil filter, and is driven by a skew gear on the camshaft. On carburettor versions, the fuel pump is also driven from the camshaft, via an eccentric lobe.

Repair operations possible with the engine in the car

The following work can be carried out with

the engine in the car:

a) Compression pressure - testing. b) Cylinder head rocker cover - removal

and refitting. c) Valve clearances - adjustment. d) Rocker shaft assembly - removal,

inspection and refitting. e) Cylinder head - removal and refitting f) Cylinder head and pistons -

decarbonising. g) Crankshaft pulley - removal and refitting. h) Crankshaft oil seals - renewal. i) Timing chain, sprockets and tensioner -

removal, inspection and refitting. j) Oil filter renewal. k) Oil pump - removal and refitting. l) Sump - removal and refitting. m) Flywheel - removal, inspection and

refitting. n) Engine/transmission mountings -

inspection and renewal. Note: It is possible to remove the pistons and

connecting rods (after removing the cylinder head and sump) without removing the engine. However, this is not recommended. Work of this nature is more easily and thoroughly completed with the engine on the bench, as described in Chapter 2D.

2 Compression test -

description and interpretation

1 When engine performance is down, or if misfiring occurs which cannot be attributed to the ignition or fuel systems, a compression test can provide diagnostic clues as to the engine’s condition. If the test is performed regularly, it can give warning of trouble before any other symptoms become apparent. 2 The engine must be fully warmed-up to normal operating temperature, the oil level must be correct and the battery must be fully charged. The aid of an assistant will also be required. 3 On fuel injection engines, refer to Chapter 12 and remove the fuel pump fuse from the fusebox. Now start the engine and allow it to run until it stalls. 4 Disable the ignition system by disconnecting the multi-plug from the DIS or E-DIS ignition coil. Remove all the spark plugs with reference to Chapter 1 if necessary. 5 Fit a compression tester to the No 1 cylinder spark plug hole - the type of tester which screws into the plug thread is to be preferred. 6 Arrange for an assistant to hold the accelerator pedal fully depressed to the floor, while at the same time cranking the engine over for several seconds on the starter motor. Observe the compression gauge reading. The compression will build up fairly quickly in a healthy engine. Low compression on the first stroke, followed by gradually-increasing pressure on successive strokes, indicates worn piston rings. A low compression on the first stroke which does not rise on successive strokes, indicates leaking valves or a blown head gasket (a cracked cylinder head could also be the cause). Deposits on the underside of the valve heads can also cause low compression. Record the highest gauge reading obtained, then repeat the procedure for the remaining cylinders. 7 Due to the variety of testers available, and the fluctuation in starter motor speed when cranking the engine, different readings are often obtained when carrying out the compression test. For this reason, actual compression pressure figures are not quoted by Ford. However, the most important factor is that the compression pressures are uniform in all cylinders, and that is what this test is mainly concerned with. 8 Add some engine oil (about three squirts from a plunger type oil can) to each cylinder through the spark plug holes, and then repeat the test.

9 If the compression increases after the oil is added, it is indicative that the piston rings are definitely worn. If the compression does not increase significantly, the leakage is occurring at the valves or the head gasket. Leakage past the valves may be caused by burned valve seats and/or faces, or warped, cracked or bent valves. 10 If two adjacent cylinders have equally low compressions, it is most likely that the head gasket has blown between them. The appearance of coolant in the combustion chambers or on the engine oil dipstick would verify this condition. 11 If one cylinder is about 20 percent lower than the other, and the engine has a slightly rough idle, a worn lobe on the camshaft could be the cause. 12 On completion of the checks, refit the spark plugs and reconnect the HT leads and the ignition coil plug. Refit the fuel pump fuse to the fusebox.

3 Top Dead Centre (TDC) for

No 1 piston - locating

1 Top dead centre (TDC) is the highest point of the cylinder that each piston reaches as the crankshaft turns. Each piston reaches its TDC position at the end of its compression stroke, and then again at the end of its exhaust stroke. For the purpose of engine timing, TDC at the end of the compression stroke for No 1 piston is used. On the HCS engine, No 1 cylinder is at the crankshaft pulley/timing chain end of the engine. Proceed as follows. 2 Ensure that the ignition is switched off. Disconnect the HT leads from the spark plugs, then unscrew and remove the plugs as described in Chapter 1. 3 Turn the engine over by hand (using a spanner on the crankshaft pulley) to the point where the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley aligns with the TDC (0) mark or TDC reference pointer on the timing cover (see illustration). As the pulley mark nears the timing mark, the No 1 piston is simultaneously approaching the top of its cylinder. To ensure that it is on its compression stroke, place a finger over the No 1 cylinder plug hole, and

feel to ensure that air pressure exits from the cylinder as the piston reaches the top of its stroke. 4 A further check to ensure that the piston is on its compression stroke can be made by first removing the air cleaner (refer to the relevant Part of Chapter 4), then unbolting and removing the rocker cover, so that the movement of the valves and rockers can be observed. 5 With the TDC timing marks on the crankshaft pulley and timing cover in alignment, rock the crankshaft back and forth a few degrees each side of this position, and observe the action of the valves and rockers for No 1 cylinder. When No 1 piston is at the TDC firing position, the inlet and exhaust valve of No 1 cylinder will be fully closed, but the corresponding valves of No 4 cylinder will be seen to rock open and closed. 6 If the inlet and exhaust valves of No 1 cylinder are seen to rock whilst those of No 4 cylinder are shut, the crankshaft will need to be turned one full rotation to bring No 1 piston up to the top of its cylinder on the compression stroke. 7 Once No 1 cylinder has been positioned at TDC on the compression stroke, TDC for any of the other cylinders can then be located by rotating the crankshaft clockwise (in its normal direction of rotation), 180º at a time, and following the firing order (see Specifications).

4 Cylinder head rocker cover -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 Where necessary for access, remove the air cleaner as described in the relevant Part of Chapter 4. 2 Detach the HT leads from the spark plugs. Pull on the connector of each lead (not the lead itself), and note the order of fitting. 3 Remove the engine oil filler cap and breather hose (where fitted). 4 Unscrew the four retaining bolts, and lift the rocker cover clear of the cylinder head. Remove the gasket.

HCS engine in-car repair procedures 2A•3

3.3 Timing mark on the crankshaft pulley aligned with the TDC (0) mark on the timing cover

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Refitting

5 Thoroughly clean the rocker cover, and scrape away any traces of old gasket remaining on the cover and cylinder head mating surfaces. 6 Fit a new gasket to the rocker cover, then refit the rocker cover (see illustrations). Tighten the cover retaining bolts to the specified torque wrench setting, in a diagonal sequence. 7 Reconnect the HT leads, and refit the air cleaner as described in Chapter 4.

5 Valve clearances -

checking and adjustment

Note: The valve clearances must be checked and adjusted only when the engine is cold.

1 The importance of having the valve clearances correctly adjusted cannot be overstressed, as they vitally affect the performance of the engine. If the clearances are too big, the engine will be noisy (characteristic rattling or tapping noises) and engine efficiency will be reduced, as the valves open too late and close too early. A more serious problem arises if the clearances are too small, however. If this is the case, the valves may not close fully when the engine is hot, resulting in serious damage to the engine (eg. burnt valve seats and/or cylinder head warping/cracking). The clearances are checked and adjusted as follows. 2 Set the engine to TDC for No 1 piston, as described in Section 3. 3 Remove the rocker cover as described in Section 4. 4 Starting from the thermostat end of the cylinder head, the valves are numbered as follows:

Valve No Cylinder No

1 - Exhaust 1 2 - Inlet 1 3 - Exhaust 2 4 - Inlet 2 5 - Inlet 3 6 - Exhaust 3 7 - Inlet 4 8 - Exhaust 4

5 Adjust the valve clearances following the sequence given in the following table. Turn the crankshaft pulley 180º (half a turn) after adjusting each pair of valve clearances.

Valves “rocking” Valves to adjust

7 and 8 1 (exhaust), 2 (inlet) 5 and 6 3 (exhaust), 4 (inlet) 1 and 2 8 (exhaust), 7 (inlet)

3 and 4 6 (exhaust), 5 (inlet) 6 The clearances for the inlet and exhaust valves differ (refer to the Specifications). Use a feeler gauge of the appropriate thickness to check each clearance between the end of the valve stem and the rocker arm (see illustration). The gauge should be a firm sliding fit between the valve and rocker arm. Where adjustment is necessary, turn the adjuster bolt as required with a ring spanner to set the clearance to that specified. The adjuster bolts are of stiff-thread type, and require no locking nut. 7 On completion, refit the rocker cover as described in Section 4.

6 Cylinder head rocker gear -

removal, inspection and refitting

Removal

1 Remove the rocker cover as described in Section 4. 2 Unscrew the four retaining bolts, and lift the rocker gear assembly from the cylinder head. As the assembly is withdrawn, ensure that the pushrods remain seated in their positions in the engine.

Inspection

3 To dismantle the rocker shaft assembly, extract the split pin from one end of the shaft, then withdraw the spring and plain washers from the shaft. 4 Slide off the rocker arms, the support pedestals and coil springs from the shaft, but

take care to keep them in their original order of fitting (see illustration). 5 Clean the respective components, and inspect them for signs of excessive wear or damage. Check that the oil lubrication holes in the shaft are clear. 6 Check the rocker shaft and arm pads which bear on the valve stem end faces for wear and scoring, and check each rocker arm on the shaft for excessive wear. Renew any components as necessary.

Refitting

7 Apply clean engine oil to the rocker shaft prior to reassembling.

2A•4 HCS engine in-car repair procedures

6.4 Rocker shaft partially dismantled for inspection

5.6 Adjusting the valve clearances4.6b Refitting the rocker cover4.6a Engage tags of rocker cover gasket

into the cut-outs in the cover

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Turning the engine will be easier if the spark plugs are removed first - see Chapter 1.

If the pushrods are to be removed, keep them in the correct order of fitting by labelling them 1 to 8, starting from the thermostat end of the cylinder head, or locate them in a card.

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