Ford Fiesta 1995 User Manual

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Page 1

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Chapter 1

Routine maintenance and servicing

Air cleaner element renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24

Automatic transmission fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

Automatic transmission fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26

Auxiliary drivebelt check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Bodywork, paint and exterior trim check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

Brake check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

Brake fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31

Coolant renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

Door, tailgate and bonnet check and lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

Driveshaft rubber gaiter and CV joint check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Emission control system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25

Engine compartment wiring check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Engine oil and filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Exhaust system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

Front wheel alignment check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28

Fuel filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30

Handbrake adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27

Idle speed and mixture check and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

Idle speed control valve cleaning and maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

Intensive maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Manual transmission oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Road test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

Roadwheel nut tightness check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

Seat belt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

Spark plug renewal and HT component check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21

Steering, suspension and roadwheel check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Timing belt renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29

Underbody and fuel/brake line check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Underbonnet check for fluid leaks and hose condition . . . . . . . . . . 5

Valve clearance adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

1•1

Contents

Easy, suitable for

novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Page 2

Lubricants and fluids

Refer to end of “Weekly Checks”

Capacities

Engine oil

At oil and filter change:

HCS engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.25 litres

CVH and PTE engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.50 litres

Zetec engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.25 litres

Difference between dipstick minimum and maximum level notches . . . 0.5 to 1.0 litre

Cooling system

HCS engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.1 litres

CVH and PTE engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.6 litres

Zetec engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.0 litres

Fuel tank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.0 litres

Manual transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.1 litres

Automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.5 litres

Engine

Direction of crankshaft rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clockwise (seen from right-hand side of vehicle)

Oil filter:

HCS, CVH and PTE engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion C104

Zetec engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion C148

Cooling system

Coolant protection at standard 40% antifreeze/water mixture ratio:

Slush point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . -25ºC (-13ºF)

Solidifying point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . -30ºC (-22ºF)

Coolant specific gravity at standard 40% antifreeze/water

mixture ratio and 15ºC/59ºF - with no other additives in coolant . . . . . 1.061

Fuel system

Idle speed*:

1.0, 1.1 and 1.3 litre HCS (carburettor) engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 750 ± 50 rpm (cooling fan running)

1.4 and 1.6 litre CVH (carburettor) engines:

Manual transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 800 ± 50 rpm (cooling fan running)

CTX automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 850 ± 50 rpm (cooling fan running)

1.6 litre CVH (EFi fuel injection) engines:

Idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 900 ± 50 rpm

Base idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 750 ± 50 rpm

Idle mixture CO content*:

1.0, 1.1 and 1.3 litre HCS (carburettor) engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 ± 0.5%

1.4 litre CVH (carburettor) engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 ± 0.25%

1.6 litre CVH (carburettor) engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 ± 0.5%

1.6 litre CVH (fuel injection) engines:

Non turbo models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.8 ± 0.25%

Turbo models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 ± 0.25%

*Note: The idle speed and mixture CO content is only adjustable on the engines shown above. On all other engines, it is controlled by the engine management system, and cannot be checked or adjusted without specialised test equipment.

Air filter element:

1.0, 1.1 and 1.3 litre HCS engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W153

1.4 litre CVH and PTE engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W226

1.6 litre CVH (carburettor) engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W226

1.6 litre CVH (fuel injection) engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion U557

1.6 and 1.8 litre Zetec engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion U612

Fuel filter:

HCS, CVH (fuel injection) and PTE engines:

Without quick-release fuel line fittings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion L204

With quick-release fuel line fittings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion type not available

Zetec engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion L218

1•2 Servicing Specifications

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Page 3

Ignition system

Firing order:

HCS engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-2-4-3 (No 1 cylinder at timing chain end of engine)

All other engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-3-4-2 (No 1 cylinder at timing belt end of engine)

Spark plugs*:

HCS engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RS9YCC or RS9YC

1.4 and 1.6 litre CVH (carburettor) engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RC7YCC or RC7YC

1.6 litre CVH (EFi fuel injection) and PTE engines

Non-turbo models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RC7YCC4 or RC7YC4

Turbo models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion C61YC

1.6 and 1.8 litre Zetec engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RE7YCC

Electrode gap*:

HCS engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 mm

1.4 litre CVH (carburettor) engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.8 mm

1.4 litre CVH (CFi fuel injection) and PTE engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 mm

1.6 litre CVH (carburettor) engines:

With Champion RC7YCC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.8 mm

With Champion RC7YC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.7 mm

1.6 litre CVH (EFi fuel injection) engines:

Non-turbo models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 mm

Turbo models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.7 mm

1.6 and 1.8 litre Zetec engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.3 mm

Spark plug (HT) leads:

HCS engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion LS-28

1.4 and 1.6 litre CVH (carburettor) engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion LS-14

1.4 litre CVH (CFi fuel injection) and PTE engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion LS-14

1.6 litre CVH (EFi fuel injection) engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion LS-26

1.6 and 1.8 litre Zetec engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion type not available

Maximum resistance per lead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 000 ohms

* Information on spark plug types and electrode gaps is as recommended by Champion Spark Plug. Where alternative types are used, refer to their manufacturer’s recommendations.

Braking system

Minimum front brake pad lining thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 mm

Minimum rear brake shoe lining thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 mm

Tyres

Tyre pressures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See “Weekly Checks”

Wiper blades

Windscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion X-4803

Tailgate/rear window . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion X-4103

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Auxiliary drivebelt cover fasteners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6

Auxiliary drivebelt adjustment:

Adjusting bolt (sliding arm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16

Central (locking) bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16

Pinion (adjuster) nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 9

Alternator mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 18

Tensioner pulley centre bolt (HCS engines) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

Engine oil drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 18

Manual transmission filler/level plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

Spark plugs:

HCS engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 13

CVH and PTE engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 18

Zetec engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11

Roadwheel nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 to 100 52 to 74

Servicing Specifications 1•3

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Page 4

The maintenance schedule for these vehicles, based on the manufacturer’s recommendations, is as described below note that the schedule starts from the vehicle’s date of registration. These are the minimum maintenance intervals recommended by the factory for Fiestas driven daily, but subjected only to “normal” use. If you wish to keep your vehicle in peak condition at all times, you may wish to perform some of these procedures even more often. Because frequent maintenance enhances the efficiency, performance and resale value of your vehicle, we encourage you to do so. If your usage is not “normal”, shorter intervals

are also recommended - the most important examples of these are noted in the schedule. These shorter intervals apply particularly if you drive in dusty areas, tow a caravan or trailer, sit with the engine idling or drive at low speeds for extended periods (ie, in heavy traffic), or drive for short distances (less than four miles) in below-freezing temperatures.

When your vehicle is new, it should be serviced by a Ford dealer service department to protect the factory warranty. In many cases, the initial maintenance check is done at no cost to the owner. Note that this first free service (carried out by the selling dealer

1500 miles or 3 months after delivery), although an important check for a new vehicle, is not part of the regular maintenance schedule, and is therefore not mentioned here.

It should be noted that for the 1992 model year, for all models except RS Turbo, the service time/mileage intervals were extended by the manufacturer to the periods shown in this schedule. Although these intervals can be applied retrospectively, owners of earlier vehicles may notice a discrepancy between this schedule and the one shown in the Service Guide supplied with the vehicle.

1•4 Maintenance schedule

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly

mm Refer to “Weekly Checks”.

Every 5000 miles (8000 km) or 6 months, whichever occurs first

Note: Frequent oil and filter changes are good for the engine. We recommend changing the oil at the mileage specified here, or at least twice a year if the mileage covered is less.

mm Renew the engine oil and filter (Section 3).

Every 10 000 miles (16 000 km) or 12 months, whichever occurs first

Carry out all operations listed above, plus the following:

mm Check the auxiliary drivebelt (Section 4). mm Check under the bonnet for fluid leaks and hose condition

(Section 5).

mm Check the condition of all engine compartment wiring (Sec-

tion 6).

mm Check the valve clearance adjustment - HCS engines only

(Section 7).

mm Check the manual transmission oil level (Section 8). mm Check the engine idle speed and mixture - HCS and CVH

engines only, where possible (Section 9).

mm Check the steering, suspension and roadwheels (Section 10). mm Check the driveshaft rubber gaiters and CV joints (Section 11). mm Check the exhaust system (Section 12). mm Check the underbody, and all fuel/brake lines (Section 13). mm Check the brake system (Section 14). mm Check the security of all roadwheel nuts (Section 15). mm Check the doors, tailgate and bonnet, and lubricate their hinges

and locks (Section 16).

mm Check the seat belts (Section 17). mm Check the condition of the bodywork, paint and exterior trim

(Section 18).

mm Road test (Section 19). mm Check the automatic transmission fluid level (Section 20).

Every 20 000 miles (32 000 km) or two years, whichever occurs first

Carry out all operations listed above, plus the following:

mm Renew the spark plugs and check the condition of the HT leads

- all engines except Zetec (Section 21).

mm Clean the idle speed control valve (Weber type) - CVH EFi

engines only (Section 22).

Every 30 000 miles (48 000 km) or three years, whichever occurs first

Carry out all operations listed above, plus the following:

mm Renew the coolant (Section 23). mm Renew the air cleaner filter element and check the air cleaner

temperature control system - carburettor engines only (Section 24).

mm Check the emission control systems (Section 25). mm Renew the spark plugs and check the condition of the HT leads

- Zetec engines (Section 21).

mm Renew the automatic transmission fluid (Section 26). mm Check the handbrake adjustment (Section 27). mm Check the front wheel alignment (Section 28).

Note: If the vehicle is used regularly in dusty or polluted conditions, the air cleaner filter element should be renewed at more frequent intervals.

Every 40 000 miles

mm Renew the timing belt - CVH and PTE engines only (Section 29).

Every 60 000 miles

mm Renew the timing belt - Zetec engines only (Section 29). mm Renew the fuel filter (Section 30).

Every three years (regardless of mileage)

mm Renew the brake fluid (Section 31).

Page 5

Maintenance – component location 1•5

1 Engine oil filler cap 2 Engine oil level dipstick 3 Cooling system expansion tank 4 Brake fluid reservoir 5 Windscreen/tailgate washer fluid reservoir

cap 6 Battery 7 Vehicle identification plate 8 Thermostat housing 9 Pre-heat tube 10 Timing belt cover 11 Distributor 12 Fuel filter 13 Heater blower motor cover 14 Windscreen wiper motor mounting bracket 15 Jack and wheelbrace retaining bolt 16 Top of suspension strut mounting

assembly 17 EEC IV engine management module cover 18 CFi unit 19 Fuel injector 20 Fuel pressure regulator 21 Throttle plate control motor 22 Carbon canister 23 Manifold absolute pressure sensor 24 Ignition module

1.1 litre HCS carburettor engine (air cleaner removed for clarity)

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

1.4 litre CVH CFi fuel injection engine (air cleaner removed for clarity)

1 Engine oil filler cap 2 Engine oil level dipstick 3 Cooling system expansion tank 4 Brake fluid reservoir 5 Windscreen/tailgate washer fluid reservoir

cap 6 Battery 7 Vehicle identification plate 8 Thermostat housing 9 Radiator cooling fan thermal switch multi-

plug 10 Alternator 11 Starter motor solenoid 12 CTX automatic transmission fluid level

dipstick 13 Exhaust heatshield/airbox 14 Brake pressure control valves 15 Top of suspension strut mounting

assembly 16 Carburettor 17 Fuel feed hose 18 Anti-dieselling (fuel-cut off) solenoid

connection 19 Throttle kicker 20 Throttle kicker control solenoid 21 Ignition module 22 Heater blower motor cover 23 Windscreen wiper motor mounting bracket

Page 6

1•6 Maintenance – component location

1.6 litre (XR2i) CVH EFi fuel injection engine

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

1 Engine oil filler cap 2 Engine oil level dipstick 3 Cooling system expansion tank 4 Brake fluid reservoir 5 Windscreen/tailgate washer fluid reservoir

cap 6 Battery 7 Vehicle identification plate 8 Thermostat housing 9 Timing belt cover 10 Top of suspension strut mounting

assembly 11 Windscreen wiper motor mounting bracket 12 Jack and wheelbrace retaining bolt 13 Distributorless (E-DIS) ignition coil 14 Fuel filter 15 Air cleaner 16 Air inlet duct 17 Idle speed control valve 18 Fuel pressure regulator 19 Throttle housing 20 Upper section of inlet manifold 21 Intake air temperature sensor 22 Fuel trap 23 EEC IV engine management module cover 24 Manifold absolute pressure sensor 25 Ignition module

1.8 litre (XR2i) Zetec SEFi fuel injection engine

1 Engine oil filler cap 2 Engine oil level dipstick 3 Cooling system expansion tank 4 Braking system fluid reservoir 5 Windscreen/tailgate washer fluid reservoir

cap 6 Battery 7 VIN plate 8 Thermostat housing 9 Timing belt cover 10 Top of suspension strut mounting

assembly 11 Windscreen wiper motor mounting bracket 12 Jack and wheelbrace retaining bolt 13 Distributorless (E-DIS) ignition coil 14 Fuel filter 15 Air cleaner 16 Air inlet duct 17 Idle speed control valve 18 Fuel pressure regulator 19 Throttle housing 20 Inlet manifold 21 Throttle position sensor 22 Fuel system pressure release/test point 23 EEC IV engine management module cover 24 Mass air flow sensor 25 Ignition module

Page 7

Maintenance – component location 1•7

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Front underside view of the 1.4 litre CVH CFi fuel injection model

1 Engine oil sump 2 Front suspension lower arm 3 Brake caliper assembly 4 Driveshaft 5 Alternator 6 Auxiliary drivebelt cover 7 Steering rack gaiter 8 Windscreen/tailgate washer pump 9 Carbon canister 10 Oxygen sensor 11 Catalytic converter (exhaust) rubber

insulator mounting 12 Catalytic converter assembly 13 Underbody heatshields 14 Gearchange mechanism shift rod 15 Gearchange mechanism stabiliser bar

Front underside view of the 1.8 litre (XR2i) Zetec SEFi fuel injection model

1 Engine oil drain plug 2 Front suspension lower arm 3 Brake caliper assembly 4 Driveshaft 5 Alternator 6 Auxiliary drivebelt cover 7 Horn 8 Windscreen/tailgate washer pump 9 Carbon canister 10 Oxygen sensor 11 Front suspension crossmember 12 Catalytic converter 13 Underbody heat shields 14 Gearchange mechanism shift rod 15 Gearchange mechanism stabiliser bar

Page 8

1•8 Maintenance – component location

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Rear underside view of the 1.4 litre CVH CFi fuel injection model

1 Fuel tank 2 Fuel filler pipe 3 Fuel tank ventilation hose 4 Twist beam rear axle assembly 5 Underbody heatshields 6 Exhaust rear silencer 7 Exhaust rubber insulator mounting 8 Load apportioning valves (on vehicles with

the anti-lock braking system) 9 Handbrake cable 10 Rear towing eye 11 Spare wheel carrier hook (on the retaining

bolt)

Rear underside view of the Courier van model

1 Fuel tank 2 Fuel filler pipe 3 Fuel tank ventilation hose 4 Rear axle assembly - spring torsion bars

visible 5 Rear axle pivot brackets 6 Rear suspension dampers 7 Exhaust system rear silencer 8 Braking system light-laden valve 9 Handbrake cables 10 Rear towing eye 11 Spare wheel carrier

Page 9

3 Engine oil and filter renewal

1 Make sure that you have all the necessary tools before you begin this procedure (see illustration). You should also have plenty of rags or newspapers handy, for mopping up any spills. 2 To avoid any possibility of scalding, and to protect yourself from possible skin irritants and other harmful contaminants in used engine oils, it is advisable to wear gloves when carrying out this work.

3 Access to the underside of the vehicle is greatly improved if the vehicle can be lifted on a hoist, driven onto ramps, or supported by axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).

Warning: Do not work under a vehicle which is supported only by an hydraulic or scissors-type jack, or by bricks, blocks of wood, etc.

4 If this is your first oil change, get under the vehicle and familiarise yourself with the position of the engine oil drain plug location in the sump. The engine and exhaust components will be warm during the actual work, so try to anticipate any potential problems while the engine and accessories are cool. 5 The oil should preferably be changed when the engine is still fully warmed-up to normal operating temperature, just after a run (the needle on the temperature gauge should be in the “Normal” sector of the gauge); warm oil and sludge will flow out more easily. Park the vehicle on firm, level ground, apply the handbrake firmly, then select 1st or reverse gear (manual transmission) or the “P” position (automatic transmission). Open the bonnet and remove the engine oil filler cap from the cylinder head cover, then remove the oil level dipstick from its tube (see “Weekly Checks”). 6 Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it securely on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove the front righthand roadwheel to provide access to the oil

1 Introduction

This Chapter is designed to help the home mechanic maintain his/her vehicle for safety, economy, long life and peak performance.

This Chapter contains a master maintenance schedule, followed by Sections dealing specifically with each task in the schedule. Visual checks, adjustments, component renewal and other helpful items are included. Refer to the accompanying illustrations of the engine compartment and the underside of the vehicle for the locations of the various components.

Servicing your vehicle in accordance with the mileage/time maintenance schedule and the following Sections will provide a planned maintenance programme, which should result in a long and reliable service life. This is a comprehensive plan, so maintaining some items but not others at the specified service intervals will not produce the same results.

As you service your vehicle, you will discover that many of the procedures can and should - be grouped together, because of the particular procedure being performed, or because of the close proximity of two otherwise-unrelated components to one another. For example, if the vehicle is raised for any reason, the exhaust should be inspected at the same time as the suspension and steering components.

The first step of this maintenance programme is to prepare yourself before the actual work begins. Read through all the

Sections relevant to the work to be carried out, then make a list and gather together all the parts and tools required. If a problem is encountered, seek advice from a parts specialist or a dealer service department.

2 Intensive maintenance

1 If, from the time the vehicle is new, the

routine maintenance schedule is followed closely, and frequent checks are made of fluid levels and high-wear items, as suggested throughout this manual, the engine will be kept in relatively good running condition, and the need for additional work will be minimised. 2 It is possible that there will be some times when the engine is running poorly due to the lack of regular maintenance. This is even more likely if a used vehicle, which has not received regular and frequent maintenance checks, is purchased. In such cases, additional work may need to be carried out, outside of the regular maintenance intervals. 3 If engine wear is suspected, a compression test (refer to Part A, B or C of Chapter 2) will provide valuable information regarding the overall performance of the main internal components. Such a test can be used as a basis to decide on the extent of the work to be carried out. If, for example, a compression test indicates serious internal engine wear, conventional maintenance as described in this Chapter will not greatly improve the performance of the engine, and may prove a

waste of time and money, unless extensive overhaul work (Chapter 2D) is carried out first. 4 The following series of operations are those often required to improve the performance of a generally poor-running engine:

Primary operations

a) Clean, inspect and test the battery (See

“Weekly Checks”).

b) Check all the engine-related fluids (See

“Weekly Checks”).

c) Check the condition of the auxiliary

drivebelt (Section 4).

d) Check and if necessary adjust the valve

clearances on HCS engines (Section 7).

e) Renew the spark plugs and clean and

inspect the HT leads (Section 21).

f) Check the condition of the air cleaner

filter element and renew if necessary (Section 24).

g) Check and if necessary adjust the idle

speed and mixture settings - where applicable (Section 9).

h) Renew the fuel filter - fuel injection

models (Section 30).

i) Check the condition of all hoses, and

check for fluid leaks (Section 5).

5 If the above operations do not prove fully effective, carry out the following operations:

Secondary operations

All the items listed under “Primary operations”, plus the following:

a) Check the charging system (Chapter 5A). b) Check the ignition system (Chapter 5B). c) Check the fuel system (Chapter 4A, 4B,

4C and 4D).

e) Renew the ignition HT leads (Section 21).

Maintenance procedures 1•9

3.2 These tools are required when changing the engine oil and filter

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Every 5000 miles (8000 km) or 6 months, whichever occurs first

Frequent oil changes are the best preventive maintenance the home

mechanic can give the engine, because ageing oil becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear.

Page 10

filter; if the additional working clearance is required, remove also the auxiliary drivebelt cover. 7 Being careful not to touch the hot exhaust components, place the drain pan under the drain plug, and unscrew the plug (see illustrations). If possible, try to keep the plug pressed into the sump while unscrewing it by hand the last couple of turns.

8 Allow some time for the old oil to drain, noting that it may be necessary to reposition the pan as the oil flow slows to a trickle. Check the condition of the plug’s sealing washer and renew it if worn or damaged. When the oil has completely drained, wipe clean the drain plug and its threads in the sump and refit the plug, tightening it to the specified torque wrench setting. 9 Reposition the drain pan under the oil filter then, using a suitable filter removal tool,

unscrew the oil filter from the cylinder block, oil pump or oil filter adaptor, as applicable; be prepared for some oil spillage (see illustration). Check the old filter to make sure that the rubber sealing ring hasn’t stuck to the engine; if it has, carefully remove it. Withdraw the filter through the wheel arch, taking care to spill as little oil as possible. 10 Using a clean, lint-free rag, wipe clean the cylinder block around the filter mounting. If there are no specific instructions supplied with it, fit a new oil filter as follows. Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to the filter’s sealing ring (see illustration). Screw the filter into position until it seats, then tighten it through a further half- to three-quarters of a turn only (see illustration). Tighten the filter by hand only - do not use any tools. 11 Remove the old oil and all tools from under the vehicle, refit the roadwheel, and lower the vehicle to the ground. 12 Refill the engine with oil, using the correct grade and type of oil, as given in “Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressures”. Pour in half the specified quantity of oil first, then wait a few minutes for the oil to run to the sump. Continue adding oil a small quantity at a time, until the level is up to the lower notch on the

dipstick. Adding approximately 0.5 to 1.0 litre (depending on model) will raise the level to the dipstick’s upper notch. 13 Start the engine. The oil pressure warning light will take a few seconds to go out while the new filter fills with oil; do not race the engine while the light is on. Run the engine for a few minutes, while checking for leaks around the oil filter seal and the drain plug. 14 Switch off the engine, and wait a few minutes for the oil to settle in the sump once more. With the new oil circulated and the filter now completely full, recheck the level on the dipstick, and add more oil as necessary. 15 Dispose of the used engine oil safely, with reference to “General repair procedures” in the Reference Sections of this manual.

1•10 Every 5000 miles or 6 months

3.10b Fitting the new oil filter on the Zetec engine 3.10a Lubricate the filter’s sealing ring with clean engine oil

before installing the filter on the engine

3.9 Removing the oil filter on the CVH engine using a strap wrench

3.7b Removing the engine oil drain plug on the Zetec engine

3.7a Engine oil drain plug location in the sump on HCS, CVH and PTE engines

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Note: It is antisocial and illegal to dump oil down the drain. To find the location of your local oil recycling bank, call this number free.

As the drain plug releases from the threads, move it away sharply, so the stream of oil issuing from the sump runs into the pan, not up your sleeve!

Page 11

4 Auxiliary drivebelt check and

renewal

General

1 The number of auxiliary drivebelts fitted and their type depends on engine, and on whether the vehicle is equipped with power steering. The drivebelt(s) are located on the right-hand end of the engine and will be either of the Vbelt type or the flat, multi-ribbed (or “polyvee”) type. The belt drives the alternator, water pump and, on CVH and Zetec engines with power steering, the power steering pump from the engine’s crankshaft pulley. On HCS engines with power steering, one belt drives the alternator and water pump and a separate belt drives the power steering pump. 2 The good condition and proper tension of the auxiliary drivebelt is critical to the operation of the engine. Because of their composition and the high stresses to which they are subjected, drivebelts stretch and deteriorate as they get older. They must, therefore, be regularly inspected.

Check

3 With the engine switched off, open and support the bonnet, then locate the auxiliary drivebelt(s) on the right-hand end of the engine (Be very careful, and wear protective

gloves to minimise the risk of burning your hands on hot components, if the engine has recently been running). For improved access,

jack up the front right-hand side of the vehicle, support it securely on an axle stand, remove the roadwheel, then (where fitted) remove the auxiliary drivebelt lower cover from inside the wheel arch (see

illustration). 4 Using an inspection light or an electric

torch, and rotating the engine when necessary with a spanner applied to the crankshaft pulley bolt, check the whole length of the

drivebelt(s) for cracks, separation of the rubber, and torn or worn ribs (see illustration). Also check for fraying and glazing, which gives the drivebelt a shiny appearance. Both sides of the drivebelt(s) should be inspected, which means you will have to twist the drivebelt(s) to check the underside. Feel the relevant drivebelt where you can’t see it. If you are in any doubt as to the condition of the drivebelt(s), renewal is necessary (go to paragraph 23).

Drivebelt tension

5 The tension must be adjusted manually on all V-belt type drivebelts, on flat “polyvee” type drivebelts fitted to early Zetec engines, and on “polyvee” type drivebelts fitted to HCS engines to drive the power steering pump. The “polyvee” type drivebelts used on later Zetec engines and PTE engines are fitted with an automatic tensioner to maintain the correct belt adjustment. 6 For models on which the tension can be adjusted manually, open the bonnet. Jack up

the front right-hand side of the vehicle, and support it securely on an axle stand. Remove the roadwheel, then (where fitted) remove the auxiliary drivebelt lower cover from inside the wheel arch. 7 Ford technicians use a special tension gauge and various other special tools for checking drivebelt adjustment, but for DIY purposes, checking the belt tension using finger pressure gives a good indication of correct adjustment. Apply firm finger pressure midway between the pulleys on the longest run of the belt, and look for a deflection of approximately 2.0 mm (i.e. a total drivebelt “swing” of approximately

4.0 mm) (see illustration). 8 If adjustment is necessary, proceed as follows according to belt type.

V-belt with sliding arm type adjuster

9 Loosen off the alternator mounting bolts

and sliding arm adjustment bolts, pivot the alternator as required to provide the correct drivebelt tension, then retighten the bolts to secure (see illustration). 10 Refit the auxiliary drivebelt cover (where applicable) and roadwheel, then lower the vehicle to the ground. 11 Run the engine for about five minutes, then recheck the tension.

Every 10 000 miles (16 000 km) or 12 months, whichever comes first

Every 10 000 miles or 12 months 1•11

4.9 Alternator sliding arm adjustment

bolt (A) and sliding arm mounting bolt (B) -

V-belt with sliding arm type adjuster

4.7 Checking drivebelt adjustment - V-belt types

Note that the 4 mm dimension is the total belt

swing and is equal to 2 mm of deflection

4.3 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt lower cover from inside the wheel arch

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

4.4 Check the auxiliary drivebelt for signs of wear like these. Very small cracks across the drivebelt ribs are

acceptable. If the cracks are deep,

or if the drivebelt looks worn or

damaged in any other way, renew it.

This is the “polyvee” type belt, but

the checks on the V-belt type are

the same

Turning the engine will be much easier if the spark plugs are removed first (Section 21).

Page 12

V-belt and flat “polyvee” type drivebelt with rack-and-pinion type adjuster

12 Loosen off the alternator mounting bolts

and the adjusting arm mounting bolt. Slacken the pinion central locking bolt, and turn the pinion nut as required to take up the tension of the drivebelt. Hold it at the required setting, and tighten the central bolt securely to lock the adjuster arm and set the tension (see

illustrations). 13 Tighten the alternator mounting and

adjusting arm bolts securely. 14 Refit the auxiliary drivebelt cover (where applicable) and roadwheel, then lower the vehicle to the ground. 15 Run the engine for about five minutes, then recheck the tension.

Flat “polyvee” type drivebelt with tensioner pulley adjuster (HCS engine power steering pump drivebelt)

16 Slacken the tensioner pulley centre bolt

then turn the adjuster bolt at the base of the tensioner pulley bracket, as required, to take up the tension of the drivebelt. When the belt deflection is correct, tighten the adjuster pulley centre retaining bolt. 17 Refit the auxiliary drivebelt cover (where applicable) and roadwheel, then lower the vehicle to the ground. 18 Run the engine for about five minutes, then recheck the tension.

Flat “polyvee” type drivebelt with automatic adjuster

19 As mentioned above, this type of drivebelt

is tensioned by an automatic tensioner; regular checks are not required, and manual “adjustment” is not possible. 20 If you suspect that the drivebelt is slipping and/or running slack, or that the tensioner is otherwise faulty, it must be renewed. To do this, remove the drivebelt as described below, then unbolt and remove the tensioner. On fitting the new tensioner, ensure that it is aligned correctly on its mountings, and tightened to the specified torque wrench setting.

Renewal

21 Open the bonnet. Jack up the front righthand side of the vehicle, and support it securely on an axle stand. Remove the roadwheel, then remove the auxiliary drivebelt lower cover (where fitted) from inside the wheel arch. 22 The routing of the drivebelt around the pulleys is dependent on the drivebelt type, and on whether power steering is fitted. Before removing the drivebelt, it’s a good idea to sketch the belt run around the pulleys; this will save a lot of frustration when it comes to refitting. Note that on HCS engines with power steering, to renew the alternator/ water pump drivebelt it will be necessary to remove the power steering pump drivebelt first. 23 If the existing drivebelt is to be refitted, mark it, or note the maker’s markings on its flat surface, so that it can be installed the same way round. 24 To renew a drivebelt with manual adjustment, slacken the belt tension fully as described above, according to type. Slip the belt off the pulleys, then fit the new belt, ensuring that it is routed correctly. If fitting a flat “polyvee” type drivebelt, arrange it on the grooved pulleys so that it is centred in their grooves, and not overlapping their raised sides. With the belt in position, adjust the tension as previously described. 25 To renew the flat, “polyvee” type drivebelt with automatic adjuster, reach up between the body and the engine (above the crankshaft pulley), and apply a spanner to the hexagon in the centre of the automatic tensioner’s pulley. Rotate the tensioner pulley clockwise to release its pressure on the drivebelt, then slip the drivebelt off the crankshaft pulley, and release the tensioner again (see illustration). Note that on certain models, a self-cocking tensioner is fitted, and that this will remain in the released position. Working from the wheel arch or engine compartment as necessary, and noting its routing, slip the drivebelt off the remaining pulleys and withdraw it. 26 Check all the pulleys, ensuring that their grooves are clean, and removing all traces of

oil and grease. Check that the tensioner works properly, with strong spring pressure being felt when its pulley is rotated clockwise, and a smooth return to the limit of its travel when released. 27 If the original drivebelt is being refitted, use the marks or notes made on removal, to ensure that it is installed to run in the same direction as it was previously. To fit the drivebelt, arrange it on the grooved pulleys so that it is centred in their grooves, and not overlapping their raised sides, and is routed correctly. Start at the top, and work down to finish at the crankshaft pulley; rotate the tensioner pulley clockwise, slip the drivebelt onto the crankshaft pulley, then release the tensioner again. 28 Using a spanner applied to the crankshaft pulley bolt, rotate the crankshaft through at least two full turns clockwise to settle the drivebelt on the pulleys, then check that the drivebelt is properly installed. 29 Refit the auxiliary drivebelt cover (where applicable) and roadwheel, then lower the vehicle to the ground.

5 Underbonnet check for fluid

leaks and hose condition

General

1 High temperatures in the engine compartment can cause the deterioration of the rubber and plastic hoses used for engine, accessory and emissions systems operation. Periodic inspection should be made for cracks, loose clamps, material hardening and leaks. 2 Carefully check the large top and bottom radiator hoses, along with the other smallerdiameter cooling system hoses and metal pipes; do not forget the heater hoses/pipes which run from the engine to the bulkhead. Inspect each hose along its entire length, replacing any that is cracked, swollen or shows signs of deterioration. Cracks may become more apparent if the hose is

1•12 Every 10 000 miles or 12 months

4.25 Automatic drivebelt tensioner “polyvee” type drivebelt

Turn tensioner clockwise to release tension

4.12b When the tension is correct, hold the adjuster nut, and tighten the central

bolt securely to lock the adjuster arm

4.12a Rack-and-pinion type auxiliary drivebelt adjuster

A Adjuster arm B Pinion (adjuster) nut C Central (locking) bolt

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Page 13

squeezed (see illustration). If you are using non-Ford specification antifreeze, and so have to renew the coolant every two years or so, it’s a good idea to renew the hoses at that time, regardless of their apparent condition. 3 Make sure that all hose connections are tight. A leak in the cooling system will usually show up as white- or rust-coloured deposits on the areas adjoining the leak; if the spring clamps that are used to secure the hoses in this system appear to be slackening, they should be renewed to prevent the possibility of leaks. 4 Some other hoses are secured to their fittings with clamps. Where clamps are used, check to be sure they haven’t lost their tension, allowing the hose to leak. If clamps aren’t used, make sure the hose has not expanded and/or hardened where it slips over the fitting, allowing it to leak. 5 Check all fluid reservoirs, filler caps, drain plugs and fittings etc, looking for any signs of leakage of oil, transmission and/or brake hydraulic fluid, coolant and power steering fluid. If the vehicle is regularly parked in the same place, close inspection of the ground underneath it will soon show any leaks. As soon as a leak is detected, its source must be traced and rectified. Where oil has been leaking for some time, it is usually necessary to use a steam cleaner, pressure washer or similar, to clean away the accumulated dirt, so that (when the engine is run again) the exact source of the leak can be identified.

Vacuum hoses

6 It’s quite common for vacuum hoses, especially those in the emissions system, to be colour-coded, or to be identified by coloured

stripes moulded into them. Various systems require hoses with different wall thicknesses, collapse resistance and temperature resistance. When renewing hoses, be sure the new ones are made of the same material. 7 Often the only effective way to check a hose is to remove it completely from the vehicle. If more than one hose is removed, be sure to label the hoses and fittings to ensure correct installation. 8 When checking vacuum hoses, be sure to include any plastic T-fittings in the check. Inspect the fittings for cracks, and check the hose where it fits over the fitting for distortion, which could cause leakage. 9 A small piece of vacuum hose (quarter-inch inside diameter) can be used as a stethoscope to detect vacuum leaks. Hold one end of the hose to your ear, and probe around vacuum hoses and fittings, listening for the “hissing” sound characteristic of a vacuum leak.

Warning: When probing with the vacuum-hose stethoscope, be very careful not to come into

contact with moving engine components such as the auxiliary drivebelt, radiator electric cooling fan, etc.

Fuel hoses

Warning: There are certain

precautions which must be

taken when inspecting or

servicing fuel system components. Work in a well-ventilated area, and do not allow open flames (cigarettes, appliance pilot lights, etc.) or bare light bulbs near the work area. Mop up any spills immediately, and do not store fuel-soaked rags where they could ignite.

10 Check all fuel hoses for deterioration and chafing. Check especially for cracks in areas where the hose bends, and also just before fittings, such as where a hose attaches to the fuel filter. 11 High-quality fuel line, usually identified by the word “Fluoroelastomer” printed on the hose, should be used for fuel line renewal. Never, under any circumstances, use unreinforced vacuum line, clear plastic tubing or water hose for fuel lines. 12 Spring-type clamps are commonly used on fuel lines. These clamps often lose their tension over a period of time, and can be “sprung” during removal. Replace all spring-type clamps with screw clamps whenever a hose is replaced.

Metal lines

13 Sections of metal piping are often used for fuel line between the fuel filter and the engine. Check carefully to be sure the piping has not been bent or crimped, and that cracks have not started in the line. 14 If a section of metal fuel line must be renewed, only seamless steel piping should be used, since copper and aluminium piping don’t have the strength necessary to withstand normal engine vibration.

15 Check the metal brake lines where they enter the master cylinder and ABS hydraulic unit (if used) for cracks in the lines or loose fittings. Any sign of brake fluid leakage calls for an immediate and thorough inspection of the brake system.

6 Engine compartment wiring

check

1 With the vehicle parked on level ground, apply the handbrake firmly and open the bonnet. Using an inspection light or a small electric torch, check all visible wiring within and beneath the engine compartment. 2 What you are looking for is wiring that is obviously damaged by chafing against sharp edges, or against moving suspension/ transmission components and/or the auxiliary drivebelt, by being trapped or crushed between carelessly-refitted components, or melted by being forced into contact with the hot engine castings, coolant pipes, etc. In almost all cases, damage of this sort is caused in the first instance by incorrect routing on reassembly, after previous work has been carried out. 3 Depending on the extent of the problem, damaged wiring may be repaired by rejoining the break or splicing-in a new length of wire, using solder to ensure a good connection, and remaking the insulation with adhesive insulating tape or heat-shrink tubing, as appropriate. If the damage is extensive, given the implications for the vehicle’s future reliability, the best long-term answer may well be to renew that entire section of the loom, however expensive this may appear. 4 When the actual damage has been repaired, ensure that the wiring loom is rerouted correctly, so that it is clear of other components, and not stretched or kinked, and is secured out of harm’s way using the plastic clips, guides and ties provided. 5 Check all electrical connectors, ensuring that they are clean, securely fastened, and that each is locked by its plastic tabs or wire clip, as appropriate. If any connector shows external signs of corrosion (accumulations of white or green deposits, or streaks of “rust”), or if any is thought to be dirty, it must be unplugged and cleaned using electrical contact cleaner. If the connector pins are severely corroded, the connector must be renewed; note that this may mean the renewal of that entire section of the loom - see your local Ford dealer for details. 6 If the cleaner completely removes the corrosion to leave the connector in a satisfactory condition, it would be wise to pack the connector with a suitable material which will exclude dirt and moisture, preventing the corrosion from occurring again; a Ford dealer may be able to recommend a suitable product. 7 Check the condition of the battery

Every 10 000 miles or 12 months 1•13

5.2 Hoses, like drivebelts, have a habit of failing at the worst possible time - to

prevent the inconvenience of a blown radiator or heater hose, inspect them

carefully as shown here

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Page 14

connections - remake the connections or renew the leads if a fault is found. Use the same techniques to ensure that all earth points in the engine compartment provide good electrical contact through clean, metalto-metal joints, and that all are securely fastened. (In addition to the earth connection at the engine lifting eye, and that from the transmission to the body/battery, there are others in various places, so check carefully). 8 Refer to Section 21 for details of spark plug (HT) lead checks.

7 Valve clearance adjustment

Refer to Chapter 2, Part A.

8 Manual transmission oil level

check

1 The manual transmission does not have a dipstick. To check the oil level, raise the vehicle and support it securely on axle stands, making sure that the vehicle is level. On the lower front side of the transmission housing, you will see the filler/level plug. Unscrew and remove it - an Allen key or bit will probably be required (see illustration). 2 With the plug removed, check the oil level. To do this accurately, make up an oil level check dipstick from a short length of welding rod or similar material. Make a 90º bend in the rod, then mark the downward leg in 5 mm increments. The dipstick is then inserted through the filler plug orifice so that the unmarked leg rests flat on the plug orifice threads, with the marked leg dipped in the oil. Withdraw the dipstick and read off the level of oil. 3 The oil level must be maintained between 0 and 5 mm below the lower edge of the filler/level plug hole. Top up (if necessary), using fresh transmission oil of the specified type and using a syringe, or a plastic bottle and tube. Refit and tighten the filler/level plug to the specified torque on completion.

4 The need for regular topping-up can only be due to a leak, which should be found and rectified without delay. 5 Regular oil changing is not specified by the manufacturer’s, but the oil can be drained, if required, by removing the selector shaft cap nut and locking assembly.

9 Idle speed and mixture

check and adjustment

General

1 Many of the engines fitted to Fiesta models are equipped with fuel injection systems of one sort or another which are entirely controlled by the engine management system. On most of these vehicles, it isn’t possible to make any adjustments to the idle speed or the mixture settings without specialist test equipment of a type usually only found at a Ford dealer or fuel injection specialist. However, the very nature of these highlysophisticated systems means they don’t go out of tune very often (if ever), so that it’s one less maintenance operation to worry about. 2 On carburettor engines and 1.6 litre EFi fuel injection engines, certain checks and adjustments are necessary as part of the service requirements, and these are described below.

Idle speed and mixture check and adjustment - carburettor engines

Note: Later carburettors are fitted with tamperproof mixture adjusting screws, consisting of a hexagon-shaped socket with a pin in the centre. Such screws require the use of Ford service tool 23-032 to alter their settings; if this tool (or a suitable equivalent) is not available, the CO level will have to be checked, and any necessary adjustment will have to be made, by a Ford dealer.

3 Before carrying out the following checks and adjustments, ensure that the spark plugs are in good condition and correctly gapped (Section 21). To carry out the

checks/adjustments, an accurate tachometer and an exhaust gas analyser (CO meter) will be required. 4 Make sure that all electrical components are switched off during the following procedures. 5 Connect a tachometer to the engine in accordance with its manufacturer’s instructions, and insert the probe of an exhaust gas analyser (CO meter) into the exhaust tailpipe. As previously mentioned, these items are essential in obtaining an accurate setting. If they are not available, an approximate check/adjustment can be made as a temporary measure, providing they are further checked out as soon as is possible using a tachometer and a CO meter (or by a Ford dealer). 6 Run the engine at a fast idle speed until it reaches its normal operating temperature and the radiator cooling fan cuts in. Turn the engine off, then disconnect the radiator cooling fan lead at the thermostatic switch connector. Now connect a temporary wire to the fan switch multi-plug, as shown (see illustration) to enable the fan to operate continuously during the following checks and adjustments (if this is specified). Take care to keep clear of the fan during the following operations when working in the engine compartment. 7 Where fitted, disconnect the throttle kicker vacuum pipe, and plug the end. To identify the throttle kicker unit, refer to Chapter 4A. 8 Check that the vehicle lighting and other electrical loadings (apart from the radiator cooling fan) are switched off, then restart the engine. Increase the engine speed to 3000 rpm for 30 seconds, and repeat this at three-minute intervals during the check/adjustment procedures. This will ensure that any excess fuel is cleared from the inlet manifold. 9 Ensure that the throttle is fully released, allow the meters to stabilise for a period of 5 to 30 seconds is normally sufficient, then check the idle speed against that specified. If adjustment is necessary, turn the idle speed adjusting screw until the engine is idling at the specified speed (see illustrations). Any checks and adjustments must be completed within 30 seconds of the meters stabilising.

1•14 Every 10 000 miles or 12 months

9.9a Idle speed adjusting screw (A) and

mixture adjusting screw (B) (Weber TLM

carburettor)

9.6 Cooling fan thermostatic switch multiplug with temporary bridging wire

connected

8.1 Manual transmission oil level/filler plug (A), and selector shaft cap nut (B)

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Page 15

10 If adjustment to the mixture is required, the tamperproof cap will need to be removed from the carburettor to gain access to the mixture screw. To do this, first unclip the fuel trap from the side of the air cleaner unit, then remove the air cleaner unit, ensuring that the crankcase ventilation trap remains connected. Prise free the tamperproof cap (with the aid of a thin-bladed screwdriver), then with the vacuum and emissions control pipes connected to it, relocate the air cleaner unit temporarily into position. 11 Turn the mixture adjustment screw clockwise to weaken the mixture, or anti-clockwise to richen it, until the CO reading is as given in the Specifications. If a CO meter is not being used, weaken the mixture as described, then enrich the mixture

until the maximum engine speed is obtained, consistent with even running. 12 If necessary, re-adjust the idle speed then check the CO reading again. Repeat as necessary until both the idle speed and CO reading are correct. 13 Where required by law (as in some European countries), fit a new tamperproof cap to the mixture adjustment screw. 14 Disconnect the tachometer and the CO meter, refit the air cleaner unit, and reconnect the fan switch lead to complete.

Base idle speed and mixture check and adjustment - 1.6 litre EFi engines

15 Proceed as described above in paragraphs 3 to 6 inclusive, then continue as follows. 16 Run the engine at a fast idle speed until it reaches its normal operating temperature and the cooling fan cuts in. Check the CO content of the exhaust, and compare it against the specified reading. If the CO content reading is incorrect, it can be adjusted by prising free the tamperproof cap for access to the mixture CO adjustment screw (see illustration), and turning the screw in the required direction to suit. 17 The operational idle speed is controlled by the EEC IV engine management module and is not adjustable. However, if the base idle speed is incorrect, the module will not have an accurate datum point from which to establish

the normal operational idle speed. If idle problems have been experienced, the base idle speed should be checked as follows. 18 Disconnect the multi-plug from the idle speed control valve and increase the engine speed to 2000 rpm, hold it at that speed for 30 seconds, then fully release the throttle and check if the base idle speed registered is as specified. 19 If adjustment is necessary, prise free the tamperproof plug using a suitable small screwdriver to gain access to the base idle speed adjustment screw in the throttle body. Turn the screw in the required direction to adjust the base idle speed to the specified amount. Turning the screw anti-clockwise increases the idle speed (see illustration). 20 Increase the engine speed to 2000 rpm again, hold it at that speed for 30 seconds, then fully release the throttle once more. Check and further adjust the base idle speed if required, then fit a new tamperproof plug into position. 21 Reconnect the idle speed control valve multi-plug and check that the engine speed briefly rises to about 900 rpm, then drops down to the specified normal idle speed. 22 On completion, disconnect the tachometer and the CO meter, but continue running the engine at idle speed for a period of about five minutes, to enable the engine management module to relearn its values before switching it off.

10 Steering, suspension and

roadwheel check

Front suspension and steering check

1 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the front of the car and support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). 2 Visually inspect the balljoint dust covers and the steering gear gaiters for splits, chafing or deterioration (see illustrations). Any wear of these components will cause loss of

Every 10 000 miles or 12 months 1•15

9.9d Idle speed mixture adjusting

screw (A) and idle speed adjusting screw

(B) (Weber TLD carburettor)

9.9c Idle speed mixture adjusting

screw (A) and idle speed adjusting screw

(B) (Weber DFTM carburettor)

9.9b Idle speed adjusting screw (A) and

mixture adjusting screw (B) (Weber TLDM

carburettor)

10.2a Check the condition of the track rod end balljoint dust cover (arrowed)

9.19 Base idle speed adjustment screw (arrowed) on the 1.6 litre EFi engine

9.16 Adjusting the idle mixture CO content on the 1.6 litre EFi engine

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lubricant, together with dirt and water entry, resulting in rapid deterioration of the balljoints or steering gear. 3 Check the power-assisted steering fluid hoses (where fitted) for chafing or deterioration, and the pipe and hose unions for fluid leaks. Also check for signs of fluid leakage under pressure from the steering gear rubber gaiters, which would indicate failed fluid seals within the steering gear. 4 Grasp the roadwheel at the 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock positions, and try to rock it. Very slight free play may be felt, but if the movement is appreciable, further investigation is necessary to determine the source. Continue rocking the wheel while an assistant depresses the footbrake. If the movement is now eliminated or significantly reduced, it is likely that the hub bearings are at fault. If the free play is still evident with the footbrake depressed, then there is wear in the suspension joints or mountings. 5 Now grasp the wheel at the 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock positions, and try to rock it as before. Any movement felt now may again be caused by wear in the hub bearings or the steering track rod balljoints. If the outer track rod end balljoint is worn, the visual movement will be obvious. If the inner joint is suspect, it can be felt by placing a hand over the rack-andpinion rubber gaiter, and gripping the track rod. If the wheel is now rocked, movement will be felt at the inner joint if wear has taken place. 6 Using a large screwdriver or flat bar, check for wear in the suspension mounting bushes by levering between the relevant suspension component and its attachment point. Some movement is to be expected, as the mountings are made of rubber, but excessive wear should be obvious. Also check the condition of any visible rubber bushes, looking for splits, cracks or contamination of the rubber. 7 With the vehicle standing on its wheels, have an assistant turn the steering wheel back-and-forth, about an eighth of a turn each way. There should be very little, if any, lost movement between the steering wheel and roadwheels. If this is not the case, closely observe the joints and mountings previously

described, but in addition, check the steering column universal joints for wear, and also check the rack-and-pinion steering gear itself.

Rear suspension check

8 Chock the front wheels then jack up the rear of the car and support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove the rear roadwheels. 9 Check the rear hub bearings for wear, using the method described for the front hub bearings (paragraph 4). 10 Using a large screwdriver or flat bar, check for wear in the suspension mounting bushes by levering between the relevant suspension component and its attachment point. Some movement is to be expected, as the mountings are made of rubber, but excessive wear should be obvious. Check the condition of the shock absorbers and their bushes/mountings. On Van models, check the leaves of the leaf springs for signs of cracking, distortion, or other damage.

Roadwheel check and balancing

11 Periodically remove the roadwheels, and clean any dirt or mud from the inside and outside surfaces. Examine the wheel rims for signs of rusting, corrosion or other damage. Light alloy wheels are easily damaged by “kerbing” whilst parking, and similarly, steel wheels may become dented or buckled. Renewal of the wheel is very often the only course of remedial action possible. 12 The balance of each wheel and tyre assembly should be maintained, not only to avoid excessive tyre wear, but also to avoid wear in the steering and suspension components. Wheel imbalance is normally signified by vibration through the vehicle’s bodyshell, although in many cases it is particularly noticeable through the steering wheel. Conversely, it should be noted that wear or damage in suspension or steering components may cause excessive tyre wear. Out-of-round or out-of-true tyres, damaged wheels and wheel bearing wear/ maladjustment also fall into this category. Balancing will not usually cure vibration caused by such wear. 13 Wheel balancing may be carried out with the wheel either on or off the vehicle. If

balanced on the vehicle, ensure that the wheel-to-hub relationship is marked in some way prior to subsequent wheel removal, so that it may be refitted in its original position.

11 Driveshaft rubber gaiter and

CV joint check

1 The driveshaft rubber gaiters are very important, because they prevent dirt, water and foreign material from entering and damaging the constant velocity (CV) joints. External contamination can cause the gaiter material to deteriorate prematurely, so it’s a good idea to wash the gaiters with soap and water occasionally. 2 With the vehicle raised and securely supported on axle stands, turn the steering onto full-lock, then slowly rotate each front wheel in turn. Inspect the condition of the outer constant velocity (CV) joint rubber gaiters, squeezing the gaiters to open out the folds. Check for signs of cracking, splits, or deterioration of the rubber, which may allow the escape of grease, and lead to the ingress of water and grit into the joint (see illustration). Also check the security and condition of the retaining clips. Repeat these checks on the inner CV joints. If any damage or deterioration is found, the gaiters should be renewed as described in Chapter 8. 3 At the same time, check the general condition of the outer CV joints themselves, by first holding the driveshaft and attempting to rotate the wheels. Any appreciable movement in the CV joint indicates wear in the joint, wear in the driveshaft splines, or a loose driveshaft retaining nut. Repeat this check on the inner joints, by holding the inner joint yoke and attempting to rotate the driveshaft.

12 Exhaust system check

1 With the engine cold (at least three hours after the vehicle has been driven), check the complete exhaust system, from its starting

1•16 Every 10 000 miles or 12 months

11.2 Check the driveshaft gaiters by hand for cracks and/or leaking grease

10.2c Check the condition of the steering rack gaiters

10.2b Check the condition of the lower arm balljoint dust cover (arrowed)

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

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point at the engine to the end of the tailpipe. Ideally, this should be done on a hoist, where unrestricted access is available; if a hoist is not available, raise and support the vehicle on axle stands. 2 Check the pipes and connections for evidence of leaks, severe corrosion, or damage. Make sure that all brackets and rubber mountings are in good condition, and tight; if any of the mountings are to be renewed, ensure that the replacements are of the correct type (see illustration). Leakage at any of the joints or in other parts of the system will usually show up as a black sooty stain in the vicinity of the leak. Note: Exhaust sealants

should not be used on any part of the exhaust system upstream of the catalytic converter even if the sealant does not contain additives harmful to the converter, pieces of it may break off and foul the element, causing local overheating.

3 At the same time, inspect the underside of the body for holes, corrosion, open seams, etc, which may allow exhaust gases to enter the passenger compartment. Seal all body openings with silicone or body putty. 4 Rattles and other noises can often be traced to the exhaust system, especially the rubber mountings. Try to move the system, silencer(s) and catalytic converter. If any components can touch the body or suspension parts, secure the exhaust system with new mountings. 5 Check the running condition of the engine by inspecting inside the end of the tailpipe; the exhaust deposits here are an indication of the engine’s state of tune. The inside of the tailpipe should be dry, and should vary in colour from dark grey to light grey/brown; if it is black and sooty, or coated with white deposits, the engine is in need of a thorough fuel system inspection.

13 Underbody and fuel/brake

line check

1 With the vehicle raised and supported on axle stands or over an inspection pit, thoroughly inspect the underbody and wheel arches for signs of damage and corrosion. In particular, examine the bottom of the side sills, and any concealed areas where mud can collect. Where corrosion and rust is evident, press and tap firmly on the panel with a screwdriver, and check for any serious corrosion which would necessitate repairs. If the panel is not seriously corroded, clean away the rust, and apply a new coating of underseal. Refer to Chapter 11 for more details of body repairs. 2 At the same time, inspect the PVC-coated lower body panels for stone damage and general condition. 3 Inspect all of the fuel and brake lines on the underbody for damage, rust, corrosion and leakage. Also make sure that they are

correctly supported in their clips. Where applicable, check the PVC coating on the lines for damage.

14 Brake check

Note: For detailed photographs of the brake system, refer to Chapter 9.

1 The work described in this Section should be carried out at the specified intervals, or whenever a defect is suspected in the braking system. Any of the following symptoms could indicate a potential brake system defect:

a) The vehicle pulls to one side when the

brake pedal is depressed.

b) The brakes make scraping or dragging

noises when applied. c) Brake pedal travel is excessive. d) The brake fluid requires repeated topping-

up.

2 A thorough inspection should be made to confirm the thickness of the linings, as follows.

Front brakes

3 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the front of the car and support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). 4 For better access to the brake calipers, remove the wheels. 5 Look through the inspection window in the caliper, and check that the thickness of the friction lining material on each of the pads is not less than the recommended minimum thickness given in the Specifications. Note:

Bear in mind that the lining material is normally bonded to a metal backing plate.

6 If it is difficult to determine the exact thickness of the pad linings, or if you are at all concerned about the condition of the pads, then remove them from the calipers for further inspection (refer to Chapter 9). 7 Check the remaining brake caliper in the same way. 8 If any one of the brake pads has worn down

to, or below, the specified limit, all four pads must be renewed as a set. 9 Measure the thickness of the discs with a micrometer, if available, to make sure that they still have service life remaining. If any disc is thinner than the specified minimum thickness, renew it (refer to Chapter 9). In any case, check the general condition of the discs. Look for excessive scoring and discolouration caused by overheating. If these conditions exist, remove the relevant disc and have it resurfaced or renewed (refer to Chapter 9). 10 Before refitting the wheels and lowering the car, check all brake lines and hoses (refer to Chapter 9). In particular, check the flexible hoses in the vicinity of the calipers, where they are subjected to most movement. Bend them between the fingers (but do not actually bend them double, or the casing may be damaged) and check that this does not reveal previously-hidden cracks, cuts or splits.

Rear brakes

11 Chock the front wheels then jack up the rear of the car and support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). 12 For better access, remove the rear wheels. 13 To check the brake shoe lining thickness without removing the brake drums, prise the rubber plugs from the backplates, and use an electric torch and mirror to inspect the linings of the leading brake shoes. Check that the thickness of the lining material on the brake shoes is not less than the recommendation given in the Specifications. 14 If it is difficult to determine the exact thickness of the brake shoe linings, or if you are at all concerned about the condition of the shoes, then remove the rear drums for a more comprehensive inspection (refer to Chapter 9). 15 With the drum removed, check the shoe return and hold-down springs for correct installation, and check the wheel cylinders for leakage of brake fluid. Check the friction surface of the brake drums for scoring and discoloration. If excessive, the drum should be resurfaced or renewed. 16 Before refitting the wheels, check all brake lines and hoses (refer to Chapter 9). On completion, apply the handbrake and check that the rear wheels are locked. The handbrake also requires periodic adjustment, and if its travel seems excessive, refer to Section 27.

15 Roadwheel nut tightness

check

1 Apply the handbrake. 2 Remove the wheel covers, using the flat

end of the wheelbrace supplied in the tool kit (on some models it will be necessary to unscrew the retaining bolts with a special key).

Every 10 000 miles or 12 months 1•17

12.2 Ensure that the exhaust system rubber mountings replacements are of the correct type - their colour is a good guide.

Those nearest to the catalytic converter

are more heat-resistant than the others

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3 Check that the roadwheel nuts are tightened to the specified torque wrench setting.

4 Refit the wheel covers.

16 Door, tailgate and bonnet

check and lubrication

1 Check that the doors and tailgate/boot lid close securely. Check that the bonnet safety catch operates correctly. Check the operation of the door check straps. 2 Lubricate the hinges, door check straps, the striker plates and the bonnet catch sparingly with a little oil or grease.

17 Seat belt check

1 Check the seat belts for satisfactory operation and condition. Inspect the webbing for fraying and cuts. Check that they retract smoothly and without binding into their reels. 2 Check that the seat belt mounting bolts are tight, and if necessary tighten them to the specified torque wrench settings as given in Chapter 11.

18 Bodywork, paint and exterior

trim check

1 The best time to carry out this check is after the car has been washed so that any surface blemish or scratch will be clearly evident and not hidden by a film of dirt. 2 Starting at one front corner check the paintwork all around the car, looking for minor scratches or more serious dents. Check all the trim and make sure that it is securely attached over its entire length. 3 Check the security of all door locks, door mirrors, badges, bumpers, front grille and wheel trim. Anything found loose, or in need of further attention should be done with reference to the relevant Chapters of this manual. 4 Rectify any problems noticed with the paintwork or body panels as described in Chapter 11.

19 Road test

Check the operation and performance of the braking system

1 Make sure that the vehicle does not pull to one side when braking, and that the wheels do not lock prematurely when braking hard. 2 Check that there is no vibration through the steering when braking.

3 Check that the handbrake operates correctly, without excessive movement of the lever, and that it holds the vehicle stationary on a slope. 4 Test the operation of the brake servo unit as follows. With the engine switched off, depress the footbrake four or five times to exhaust the vacuum, then hold the pedal depressed. Start the engine, and there should be a noticeable “give” in the brake pedal as vacuum builds up. Allow the engine to run for at least two minutes, and then switch it off. If the brake pedal is depressed again, it should be possible to detect a hiss from the servo as the pedal is depressed. After about four or five applications, no further hissing should be heard, and the pedal should feel considerably firmer.

Steering and suspension

5 Check for any abnormalities in the steering, suspension, handling or road “feel”. 6 Drive the vehicle, and check that there are no unusual vibrations or noises. 7 Check that the steering feels positive, with no excessive sloppiness or roughness, and check for any suspension noises when cornering and driving over bumps.

Drivetrain

8 Check the performance of the engine, transmission and driveshafts. 9 Check that the engine starts correctly, both when cold and when hot. 10 Listen for any unusual noises from the engine and transmission. 11 Make sure that the engine runs smoothly when idling, and that there is no hesitation when accelerating. 12 On manual transmission models, check that all gears can be engaged smoothly without noise, and that the gear lever action is not abnormally vague or “notchy”. 13 On automatic transmission models, make sure that the drive seems smooth without jerks or engine speed “flare-ups”. Check that all the gear positions can be selected with the vehicle at rest. If any problems are found, they should be referred to a Ford dealer. 14 Listen for a metallic clicking sound from the front of the vehicle, as the vehicle is driven slowly in a circle with the steering on full-lock. Carry out this check in both directions. If a clicking noise is heard, this indicates wear in a driveshaft joint, in which case renew the joint if necessary.

Clutch

15 Check that the clutch pedal moves smoothly and easily through its full travel, and that the clutch itself functions correctly, with no trace of slip or drag. If the movement is uneven or stiff in places, check that the cable is routed correctly, with no sharp turns. 16 Inspect both ends of the clutch inner cable, both at the transmission end and inside the car, for signs of wear and fraying.

Instruments and electrical equipment

17 Check the operation of all instruments and electrical equipment. 18 Make sure that all instruments read correctly, and switch on all electrical equipment in turn, to check that it functions properly.

20 Automatic transmission fluid

level check

1 The level of the automatic transmission fluid should be carefully maintained. Low fluid level can lead to slipping or loss of drive, while overfilling can cause foaming, loss of fluid and transmission damage. 2 The transmission fluid level should only be checked when the transmission is hot (at its normal operating temperature). If the vehicle has just been driven over 10 miles (15 miles in a cold climate), and the fluid temperature is 60 to 70ºC, the transmission is hot.

Caution: If the vehicle has just been driven for a long time at high speed or in city traffic in hot weather, or if it has been pulling a trailer, an accurate fluid level reading cannot be obtained. In these circumstances, allow the fluid to cool down for about 30 minutes.

3 Park the vehicle on level ground, apply the handbrake, and start the engine. While the engine is idling, depress the brake pedal and move the selector lever through all the gear positions three times, beginning and ending in “P”. 4 Allow the engine to idle for one minute, then (with the engine still idling) remove the dipstick from its tube. Note the condition and colour of the fluid on the dipstick. 5 Wipe the fluid from the dipstick with a clean rag, and re-insert it into the filler tube until the cap seats. 6 Pull the dipstick out again, and note the fluid level. The level should be between the “MIN” and “MAX” marks. If the level is on the “MIN” mark, stop the engine, and add the specified automatic transmission fluid through the dipstick tube, using a clean funnel if necessary. It is important not to introduce dirt into the transmission when topping-up. 7 Add the fluid a little at a time, and keep checking the level as previously described until it is correct. The difference between the “MIN” and “MAX” marks on the dipstick is approximately 0.4 litres. 8 The need for regular topping-up of the transmission fluid indicates a leak, which should be found and rectified without delay. 9 The condition of the fluid should also be checked along with the level. If the fluid on the dipstick is black or a dark reddish-brown colour, or if it has a burned smell, the fluid should be changed. If you are in doubt about the condition of the fluid, purchase some new fluid, and compare the two for colour and smell.

1•18 Every 10 000 miles or 12 months

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21 Spark plug renewal and HT

component check

Note: Spark plug renewal at this service interval is only necessary on the HCS, CVH and PTE engines. On Zetec engines, the recommended interval for spark plug renewal is every 30 000 miles or three years.

Spark plug check and renewal

1 It is vital for the correct running, full performance and proper economy of the engine that the spark plugs perform with maximum efficiency. The most important factor in ensuring this is that the plugs fitted are appropriate for the engine. The suitable type is given in the Specifications Section at the beginning of this Chapter, on the Vehicle Emissions Control Information (VECI) label located on the underside of the bonnet (only on models sold in some areas) or in the vehicle’s Owner’s Handbook. If the correct type is used and the engine is in good condition, the spark plugs should not need attention between scheduled renewal intervals. Spark plug cleaning is rarely necessary, and should not be attempted unless specialised equipment is available, as damage can easily be caused to the firing ends. 2 Spark plug removal and refitting requires a spark plug socket, with an extension which can be turned by a ratchet handle or similar. This socket is lined with a rubber sleeve, to protect the porcelain insulator of the spark plug, and to hold the plug while you insert it into the spark plug hole. You will also need a set of feeler gauges, to check the spark plug electrode gap, and a torque wrench to tighten the new plugs to the specified torque (see illustration). 3 To remove the spark plugs, first open the bonnet; the plugs are easily reached at the top of the engine. Note how the spark plug (HT) leads are routed and secured by clips, and on some engines, how they’re positioned along the channel in the cylinder head cover. To prevent the possibility of mixing up spark plug (HT) leads, it is a good idea to try to work on one spark plug at a time. 4 If the marks on the original-equipment spark plug (HT) leads cannot be seen, mark the leads 1 to 4, to correspond to the cylinder the lead serves (No 1 cylinder is at the timing belt/chain end of the engine). Pull the leads from the plugs by gripping the rubber boot, not the lead, otherwise the lead connection may be fractured. 5 It is advisable to soak up any liquid in the spark plug recesses with a rag, and to remove any dirt from them using a clean brush, vacuum cleaner or compressed air before removing the plugs, to prevent any dirt or water from dropping into the cylinders.

Warning: Wear eye protection when using compressed air!

6 Unscrew the spark plugs, ensuring that the socket is kept in alignment with each plug - if the socket is forcibly moved to either side, the porcelain top of the plug may be broken off. If any undue difficulty is encountered when unscrewing any of the spark plugs, carefully check the cylinder head threads and tapered sealing surfaces for signs of wear, excessive corrosion or damage; if any of these conditions is found, seek the advice of a Ford dealer as to the best method of repair. 7 As each plug is removed, examine it as follows - this will give a good indication of the condition of the engine. If the insulator nose is covered with light tan to greyish-brown deposits, then the mixture is correct, and it is likely that the engine is in good condition. 8 If the tip and insulator nose are covered with hard black-looking deposits, then this is indicative that the mixture is too rich. Should the plug be black and oily, then it is likely that the engine is fairly worn, as well as the mixture being too rich. 9 If the insulator nose of the spark plug is

clean and white, with no deposits, this is indicative of a weak mixture. 10 If you are renewing the spark plugs, purchase the new plugs, then check each of them first for faults such as cracked insulators or damaged threads. Note also that, whenever the spark plugs are renewed as a routine service operation, the spark plug (HT) leads should be checked as described below. 11 The spark plug electrode gap is of considerable importance as, if it is too large or too small, the size of the spark and its efficiency will be seriously impaired. The gap should be set to the value given in the Specifications Section of this Chapter. New plugs will not necessarily be set to the correct gap, so they should always be checked before fitting. 12 The spark plug gap is correct when the correct-size feeler gauge or wire gauge is a firm sliding fit between the electrodes (see

illustrations). 13 To adjust the electrode gap, bend open, or

close up, the outer plug electrode until the correct gap is achieved (see illustration). The centre electrode should never be bent, as this may crack the insulation and cause plug failure,

Every 20 000 miles (32 000 km) or two years, whichever comes first

Every 20 000 miles or two years 1•19

21.12b Spark plug manufacturers

recommend using a wire-type gauge when checking the gap - if the wire or feeler gauge does not slide between the electrodes with a

slight drag, adjustment is required

21.12a Measuring a spark plug gap with a feeler gauge

21.2 Tools required for changing spark plugs

21.13 To change the gap, bend the outer electrode only, and be very careful not to

crack or chip the porcelain insulator

surrounding the centre electrode

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

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if nothing worse. If the outer electrode is not exactly over the centre electrode, bend it gently to align them. Special spark plug gap adjusting tools are available from motor accessory shops, or from certain spark plug manufacturers. 14 Before fitting the spark plugs, check that the threaded connector sleeves at the top of the plugs are tight, and that the plug exterior surfaces and threads are clean. Brown staining on the porcelain, immediately above the metal body, is quite normal, and does not necessarily indicate a “leak” between the body and insulator. 15 Apply a smear of copper-based grease or anti-seize compound to the threads of each plug, and screw them in by hand where possible. Take extra care to enter the plug threads correctly, as the cylinder head is of aluminium alloy.

16 When each spark plug is started correctly on its threads, screw it down until it just seats lightly, then tighten it to the specified torque wrench setting. If a torque wrench is not available - and this is one case where the use of a torque wrench is strongly recommended tighten each spark plug through no more than 1/4 of a turn (CVH and PTE engines) or 1/16 of a turn (HCS and Zetec engines) after it seats. HCS and Zetec engines are fitted with taper-seat spark plugs, identifiable by not having a sealing washer, and these in particular should NEVER be overtightened - their tapered seats mean they are almost impossible to remove if abused. 17 Reconnect the spark plug (HT) leads in their correct order, using a twisting motion on the boot until it is firmly seated on the end of the spark plug and on the cylinder head cover.

Spark plug (HT) lead, distributor cap and rotor arm check

18 The spark plug (HT) leads should be checked whenever the plugs themselves are

renewed. Start by making a visual check of the leads while the engine is running. In a darkened garage (make sure there is ventilation) start the engine and observe each lead. Be careful not to come into contact with any moving engine parts. If there is a break in the lead, you will see arcing or a small spark at the damaged area. 19 The spark plug (HT) leads should be inspected one at a time, to prevent mixing up the firing order, which is essential for proper engine operation. Each original lead should be numbered to identify its cylinder. If the number is illegible, a piece of tape can be marked with the correct number, and wrapped around the lead (the leads should be numbered 1 to 4, with No 1 lead nearest the timing belt end of the engine). The lead can then be disconnected. 20 Check inside the boot for corrosion, which will look like a white crusty powder. Clean this off as much as possible; if it is excessive, or if cleaning leaves the metal connector too badly eroded to be fit for further use, the lead must be renewed. Push the lead and boot back onto the end of the spark plug. The boot should fit tightly onto the end of the plug - if it doesn’t, remove the lead and use pliers carefully to crimp the metal connector inside the boot until the fit is snug. 21 Using a clean rag, wipe the entire length of the lead to remove built-up dirt and grease. Once the lead is clean, check for burns, cracks and other damage. Do not bend the lead sharply, because the conductor might break. 22 Disconnect the lead from the ignition coil by pressing together the plastic retaining catches (where fitted) and pulling the end fitting off the coil terminal. Check for corrosion and for a tight fit. If a meter with the correct measuring range is available, measure the resistance of the disconnected lead from its coil connector to its spark plug connector. If the resistance recorded for any of the leads exceeds the value specified, all the leads should be renewed as a set. Refit the lead to the coil, noting that each coil terminal is marked with its respective cylinder number, so that there is no risk of mixing up the leads and upsetting the firing order. 23 Inspect the remaining spark plug (HT) leads, ensuring that each is securely fastened at the distributor cap or ignition coil and spark plug when the check is complete. If any sign of arcing, severe connector corrosion, burns, cracks or other damage is noticed, obtain new spark plug (HT) leads, renewing them as a set. If new spark plug leads are to be fitted, remove and refit them one at a time, to avoid mix-ups in the firing order.

24 On models with distributor ignition systems, refer to Chapter 5B and remove the distributor cap then thoroughly clean it inside and out with a dry lint-free rag. 25 Examine the HT lead segments inside the cap. If they appear badly burned or pitted renew the cap. Also check the carbon brush in the centre of the cap, ensuring that it is free to move and stands proud of its holder. Make sure that there are no sign of cracks or black “tracking” lines running down the inside of the cap, which will also mean renewal if evident. 26 Inspect the rotor arm checking it for security and also for signs of deterioration as described above. 27 Refit the cap as described in Chapter 5B on completion.

22 Idle speed control valve

cleaning and maintenance

Note: The idle speed control valve may be mounted on the air cleaner, on the engine compartment bulkhead, or on the side of the inlet manifold according to valve make and year of manufacture. Valves manufactured by Weber are mounted on the air cleaner and only these valves require the periodic maintenance described below. Bulkhead and inlet manifold mounted valves are manufactured by Hitachi and are maintenance free. Refer to the warning note in Section 1 of Chapter 4C before proceeding.

1 Remove the valve as described in Chapter 4C, Section 14. 2 Immerse the valve head in a suitable container filled with clean petrol, and allow it to soak for approximately three minutes. 3 Clean the valve bore, slots and piston with petrol, using a suitable lint-free cloth, then gently move the piston up and down in its bore using a small screwdriver (see illustration). Ensure that no cloth particles enter the bore, and do not use the slots to move the piston. 4 Rinse the valve again with clean petrol, then dry it using an air line (or other source of compressed air).

Warning: Wear eye protection when using compressed air!

5 Clean the mating faces of the valve and the air filter housing then refit as described in Chapter 4C, Section 14.

1•20 Every 20 000 miles or two years

22.3 Gently move the idle speed control

valve piston up and down in its bore using

a small screwdriver (1.6 litre EFi engine)

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

It’s often difficult to insert spark plugs into their holes without cross-threading them. To avoid this possibility, fit a short piece of rubber hose over the end of the spark plug. The flexible hose acts as a universal joint, to help align the plug with the plug hole. Should the plug begin to cross-thread, the hose will slip on the spark plug, preventing thread damage.

If new spark plug leads are to be fitted, remove the leads one at a time and fit each new lead in exactly the same position as the old one.

Page 21

23 Coolant renewal

Note: If the antifreeze used is Ford’s own, the coolant need not be renewed for the life of the vehicle. If the vehicle’s history is unknown, if antifreeze of lesser quality is known to be in the system, or simply if you prefer to follow conventional servicing intervals, the coolant should be changed periodically (typically, every 3 years) as described here. Refer also to “Antifreeze - notes on renewal” in this Section.

Warning: Do not allow antifreeze to come in contact with your skin or painted

surfaces of the vehicle. Flush contaminated areas immediately with plenty of water. Don’t store new coolant, or leave old coolant lying around, where it’s accessible to children or pets - they’re attracted by its sweet smell. Ingestion of even a small amount of coolant can be fatal! Wipe up garage-floor and drip-pan spills immediately. Keep antifreeze containers covered, and repair cooling system leaks as soon as they’re noticed. Warning: Never remove the expansion tank filler cap when the engine is running, or has just been switched off, as the cooling system will be hot, and the consequent escaping steam and scalding coolant could cause serious injury.

Coolant draining

Warning: Wait until the engine is cold before starting this procedure.

1 To drain the system, first remove the expansion tank filler cap (see “Weekly Checks”). 2 If additional working clearance is required, raise the front of the vehicle and support it

securely on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). 3 Place a large drain tray beneath the radiator, and unscrew the radiator drain plug you can use a small coin to do this, as the plug’s slotted for this purpose (see illustration). Direct as much of the escaping coolant as possible into the tray.

System flushing

4 With time, the cooling system may gradually lose its efficiency, as the radiator core becomes choked with rust, scale deposits from the water, and other sediment (refer also to “Antifreeze - notes on renewal” later in this Section). To minimise this, as well as using only good-quality antifreeze and clean soft water, the system should be flushed as follows whenever any part of it is disturbed, and/or when the coolant is renewed. 5 With the coolant drained, refit the drain plug, and refill the system with fresh water. Refit the expansion tank filler cap, start the engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature, then stop it and (after allowing it to cool down completely) drain the system again. Repeat as necessary until only clean water can be seen to emerge, then refill finally with the specified coolant mixture as described below. 6 If only clean, soft water and good-quality antifreeze (even if not to Ford’s specification) has been used, and the coolant has been renewed at the suggested intervals, the above procedure will be sufficient to keep the system clean for a considerable length of time. If, however, the system has been neglected, a more thorough operation will be required, as follows. 7 First drain the coolant, then disconnect the radiator top and bottom hoses. Insert a garden hose into the top hose, and allow water to circulate through the radiator until it runs clean from the bottom outlet. 8 To flush the engine, insert the garden hose into the thermostat water outlet, and allow water to circulate until it runs clear from the bottom hose. If, after a reasonable period, the water still does not run clear, the radiator should be flushed with a good proprietary cleaning agent. 9 In severe cases of contamination, reverseflushing of the radiator may be necessary. To do this, remove the radiator (Chapter 3), invert it, and insert the garden hose into the bottom outlet. Continue flushing until clear water runs from the top hose outlet. A similar procedure can be used to flush the heater matrix. 10 The use of chemical cleaners should be necessary only as a last resort. Normally, regular renewal of the coolant will prevent excessive contamination of the system.

Coolant filling

11 With the cooling system drained and flushed, ensure that all disturbed hose unions are correctly secured, and that the radiator drain plug is securely tightened. If it was raised, lower the vehicle to the ground. 12 Prepare a sufficient quantity of the specified coolant mixture (see below); allow for a surplus, so as to have a reserve supply for topping-up. 13 Slowly fill the system through the expansion tank; since the tank is the highest point in the system, all the air in the system should be displaced into the tank by the rising liquid. Slow pouring reduces the possibility of air being trapped and forming airlocks. 14 Continue filling until the coolant level reaches the expansion tank “MAX” level line, then cover the filler opening to prevent coolant splashing out. 15 Start the engine and run it at idle speed, until it has warmed-up to normal operating temperature and the radiator cooling fan has cut in; watch the temperature gauge to check for signs of overheating. If the level in the expansion tank drops significantly, top-up to the “MAX” level line, to minimise the amount of air circulating in the system. 16 Stop the engine, allow it to cool down completely (overnight, if possible), then uncover the expansion tank filler opening and top-up the tank to the “MAX” level line. Refit the filler cap, tightening it securely, and wash off any spilt coolant from the engine compartment and bodywork. 17 After refilling, always check carefully all components of the system (but especially any unions disturbed during draining and flushing) for signs of coolant leaks. Fresh antifreeze has a searching action, which will rapidly expose any weak points in the system. 18 If, after draining and refilling the system, symptoms of overheating are found which did not occur previously, then the fault is almost certainly due to trapped air at some point in the system, causing an airlock and restricting the flow of coolant; usually, the air is trapped because the system was refilled too quickly. In some cases, airlocks can be released by tapping or squeezing the various hoses. If the problem persists, stop the engine and allow it to cool down completely, before unscrewing the expansion tank filler cap or disconnecting hoses to bleed out the trapped air.

Antifreeze mixture

19 If the antifreeze used is not to Ford’s specification, it should always be renewed at the suggested intervals (typically, every 2 or 3 years). This is necessary not only to maintain the antifreeze properties, but also to prevent

Every 30 000 miles (48 000 km) or three years, whichever comes first

Every 30 000 miles or three years 1•21

23.3 Drain plug location at the base of the radiator - use a coin to unscrew the plug

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Page 22

the corrosion which would otherwise occur as the corrosion inhibitors become progressively less effective. Always use an ethylene glycol-based antifreeze which is suitable for use in mixed-metal cooling systems. 20 If the antifreeze used is to Ford’s specification, the levels of protection it affords are indicated in the Specifications Section of this Chapter. To give the recommended standard mixture ratio for this antifreeze, 40% (by volume) of antifreeze must be mixed with 60% of clean, soft water; if you are using any other type of antifreeze, follow its manufacturer’s instructions to achieve the correct ratio. It is best to make up slightly more than the system’s specified capacity, so that a supply is available for subsequent topping-up. 21 Before adding antifreeze, the cooling system should be completely drained, preferably flushed, and all hoses checked for condition and security. As noted earlier, fresh antifreeze will rapidly find any weaknesses in the system. 22 After filling with antifreeze, a label should be attached to the expansion tank, stating the type and concentration of antifreeze used, and the date installed. Any subsequent topping-up should be made with the same type and concentration of antifreeze. If topping-up using antifreeze to Ford’s specification, note that a 50/50 mixture is permissible, purely for convenience. 23 Do not use engine antifreeze in the windscreen/tailgate washer system, as it will damage the vehicle’s paintwork. A screenwash additive should be added to the washer system in its maker’s recommended quantities.

Antifreeze - notes on renewal

24 Ford state that, where antifreeze to Ford specification ESD-M97B-49-A is used, it will last the lifetime of the vehicle. This is subject to it being used in the recommended concentration, unmixed with any other type of antifreeze or additive, and topped-up when necessary using only that antifreeze mixed

50/50 with clean water. If any other type of antifreeze is added, the lifetime guarantee no longer applies; to restore the lifetime protection, the system must be drained and thoroughly reverse-flushed before fresh coolant mixture is poured in. 25 If the vehicle’s history (and therefore the quality of the antifreeze in it) is unknown, owners who wish to follow Ford’s recommendations are advised to drain and thoroughly reverse-flush the system before refilling with fresh coolant mixture. If the appropriate quality of antifreeze is used, the coolant can then be left for the life of the vehicle. 26 If any antifreeze other than Ford’s is to be used, the coolant must be renewed at regular intervals to provide an equivalent degree of protection; the conventional recommendation is to renew the coolant every two or three years. 27 The above assumes the use of a mixture (in exactly the specified concentration) of clean, soft water and of antifreeze to Ford’s specification or equivalent. It is also assumed that the cooling system is maintained in a scrupulously-clean condition, by ensuring that only clean coolant is added on topping-up, and by thorough reverse-flushing whenever the coolant is drained.

General cooling system checks

28 The engine should be cold for the cooling system checks, so perform the following procedure before driving the vehicle, or after it has been shut off for at least three hours. 29 Remove the expansion tank filler cap, and clean it thoroughly inside and out with a rag. Also clean the filler neck on the expansion tank. The presence of rust or corrosion in the filler neck indicates that the coolant should be changed. The coolant inside the expansion tank should be relatively clean and transparent. If it is rust-coloured, drain and flush the system, and refill with a fresh coolant mixture. 30 Carefully check the radiator hoses and

heater hoses along their entire length; renew any hose which is cracked, swollen or deteriorated (see Section 5). 31 Inspect all other cooling system components (joint faces, etc.) for leaks. A leak in the cooling system will usually show up as white- or rust-coloured deposits on the area adjoining the leak. Where any problems of this nature are found on system components, renew the component or gasket with reference to Chapter 3. 32 Clean the front of the radiator with a soft brush to remove all insects, leaves, etc, embedded in the radiator fins. Be careful not to damage the radiator fins, or cut your fingers on them.

24 Air cleaner element renewal

1 The air cleaner filter element is located in the air cleaner assembly mounted either on top of the carburettor or CFi unit, or on the left-hand or right-hand side of the engine compartment at the front. Remove the air cleaner lid as follows according to type.

Carburettor and CFi fuel injection models

2 Undo the two or three retaining screws on the top of the air cleaner lid (see illustration). 3 Release the clips, and lift off the air cleaner cover (see illustration).

EFi fuel injection models

4 If the idle speed control valve is mounted on the air cleaner, disconnect the multi-plug and the air bypass hose from the valve. 5 Disconnect the flexible hose between the air cleaner lid and the air inlet duct or turbocharger air intake. 6 Release the retaining clips and lift off the air cleaner lid (see illustration).

1•22 Every 30 000 miles or three years

24.6 On EFi fuel injection engines, release the retaining clips and lift off the air

cleaner lid

24.3 . . . then spring back the clips and lift of the lid

24.2 On carburettor and CFi fuel injection engines, undo the air cleaner lid retaining

screws . . .

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Page 23

SEFi fuel injection models

7 Disconnect the mass air flow sensor wiring multi-plug (see illustration). 8 Slacken the hose clip and disconnect the flexible rubber intake hose from the black plastic air intake duct (see illustration). 9 Undo the retaining screws or release the clips and lift off the air cleaner lid complete with mass air flow sensor (see illustration).

All models

10 Lift out the element, and wipe out the housing (see illustrations). Check that no foreign matter is visible, either in the air inlet or in the air mass meter, as applicable. 11 If carrying out a routine service, the element must be renewed regardless of its apparent condition. Note that on models so equipped, the small foam PCV filter in the rear right-hand corner of the air cleaner housing must be cleaned whenever the air filter element is renewed (see Section 25). 12 If you are checking the element for any other reason, inspect its lower surface; if it is oily or very dirty, renew the element. If it is only moderately dusty, it can be re-used after blowing it clean from the upper to the lower surface with compressed air.

Warning: Wear eye protection when using compressed air! Because it is a pleated-paper type filter, it cannot be washed or re-oiled. If it cannot be

cleaned satisfactorily with compressed air, discard and renew it. Caution: Never drive the vehicle with the air cleaner filter element removed. Excessive engine wear could result, and backfiring could even cause a fire under the bonnet.

13 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure. Ensure that the element and cover are securely seated, so that unfiltered air cannot enter the engine.

Air cleaner temperature control system check (carburettor models)

14 In order for the engine to operate efficiently, the temperature of the air entering the inlet system must be controlled within certain limits. 15 The air cleaner has two sources of air, one direct from the outside of the engine compartment, and the other from a shroud on the exhaust manifold. On HCS engines, a wax-controlled thermostatic valve controls a flap inside the air cleaner inlet. When the ambient air temperature is below a predetermined level, the flap admits air heated from the exhaust manifold shroud; as the ambient temperature rises, the flap opens to admit more cool air from the engine compartment until eventually it is fully open. A similar system is used on CVH engines, except that a vacuum actuator modifies any

opening or closing action of the temperature sensor on the flap valve, according to the level of the inlet manifold vacuum under running conditions.

HCS engines

16 This check must be made when the

engine is cold. Detach and remove the air cleaner inlet trunking. Examine the position of the check valve within the duct. When the underbonnet air temperature is below 28ºC, the valve must be open to allow hot air to enter the filter (see illustration). 17 Refit the inlet trunking. Start the engine and run it until it reaches its normal operating temperature, then stop the engine, remove the inlet trunking and check that the valve has closed off the air passage from the exhaust and opened the main (cool) air inlet. 18 If the flap does not operate correctly, check that it is not seized. Apart from this there is no adjustment possible, and the unit should be renewed if faulty. Refit the air inlet trunking on completion.

CVH engines

19 This check must be made when the

engine is cold. Disconnect the main air inlet duct, and visibly check that the flap to the hot-air inlet is closed (i.e. open to the passage of cold air). 20 Start the engine, and check that with the

Every 30 000 miles or three years 1•23

24.9 . . . then undo the retaining screws or release the clips and lift off the air cleaner

lid complete with mass air flow sensor

24.8 . . . slacken the hose clip and

disconnect the intake hose from the air

intake duct . . .

24.7 On SEFi fuel injection engines,

disconnect the mass air flow sensor wiring

multi-plug . . .

24.16 Air cleaner inlet and flap valve on the HCS engine

A Main air cleaner inlet (cool air) B Warm air duct (flap open)

24.10b . . . and on EFi and SEFi fuel injection engine models

24.10a Removing the air filter element on carburettor engine models . . .

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Page 24

engine idling, the hot-air inlet is open to allow warm air from the exhaust manifold area to enter the air cleaner. If the flap operates as described, it is functioning correctly (see

illustration). 21 If the flap fails to operate as described,

check the condition of the vacuum pipe and its connections, and check that the flap valve has not seized. If these are in order, either the temperature sensor or vacuum actuator is faulty, and a new air cleaner assembly must be obtained. Refit the main air duct on completion.

25 Emission control system

check

General

1 Of the emission control systems that may be fitted, only the crankcase ventilation system and the evaporative emission control systems require regular checking, and even then, the components of these systems require minimal attention. 2 Should it be felt that the other systems are not functioning correctly, the advice of a dealer should be sought.

Crankcase ventilation system

3 The function of the crankcase ventilation system is to reduce the emission of unburned hydrocarbons from the crankcase, and to minimise the formation of oil sludge. By ensuring that a depression is created in the crankcase under most operating conditions, particularly at idle, and by positively inducing fresh air into the system, the oil vapours and “blow-by” gases collected in the crankcase are drawn from the crankcase, through the air cleaner or oil separator, into the inlet tract, to be burned by the engine during normal combustion. 4 On HCS engines, the system consists of a vented oil filler cap (with an integral mesh filter) and a hose connecting it to the oil separator/engine breather valve connector on the underside of the air cleaner housing. A

further hose leads from the adapter/filter to the inlet manifold. 5 On CVH engines, a closed-circuit type crankcase ventilation system is used, the function of which is basically the same as that described for the HCS engine types, but the breather hose connects directly to the rocker cover. A separate filter is fitted in the hose to the rocker cover in certain applications (see

illustration). 6 The system fitted to the PTE engines is

similar to that used on the earlier (CVH) engines on which these engines are based, but with revisions to the hose arrangement to suit the remotely sited air cleaner and fuel injection system layout. 7 On Zetec engines, the crankcase ventilation system main components are the oil separator mounted on the front (radiator) side of the cylinder block/crankcase, and the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve set in a rubber grommet in the separator’s lefthand upper end. The associated pipework consists of a crankcase breather pipe and two flexible hoses connecting the PCV valve to a union on the left-hand end of the inlet manifold, and a crankcase breather hose connecting the cylinder head cover to the air cleaner assembly. A small foam filter in the air cleaner prevents dirt from being drawn directly into the engine. 8 Check that all components of the system are securely fastened, correctly routed (with no kinks or sharp bends to restrict flow) and in sound condition; renew any worn or damaged components. 9 On HCS engines, remove and inspect the oil filler cap to ensure that it is in good condition, and not blocked up with sludge. 10 Disconnect the hoses at the cap, and clean the cap if necessary by brushing the inner mesh filter with petrol, and blowing through with light pressure from an air line. Renew the cap if it is badly congested. 11 If oil leakage is noted, disconnect the various hoses and pipes, and check that all are clear and unblocked. Remove the air cleaner lid, and check that the hose from the cylinder head cover to the air cleaner housing is clear and undamaged.

12 Where fitted, the PCV valve is designed to allow gases to flow out of the crankcase only, so that a depression is created in the crankcase under most operating conditions, particularly at idle. Therefore, if either the oil separator or the PCV valve are thought to be blocked, they must be renewed (see Chapter 4E). In such a case, however, there is nothing to be lost by attempting to flush out the blockage using a suitable solvent. The PCV valve should rattle when shaken. 13 While the air filter element is removed (see Section 24), wipe out the housing, and on Zetec engines, withdraw the small foam filter from its location in the rear right-hand corner of the housing (see illustration). If the foam is badly clogged with dirt or oil, it must be cleaned by soaking it in a suitable solvent, and allowed to dry before being refitted.

Evaporative emission control systems

14 Refer to the checks contained in Chapter 4E.

26 Automatic transmission fluid

renewal

1 The automatic transmission fluid should only be changed when the transmission is cold. 2 Position the vehicle over an inspection pit, on vehicle ramps, or jack it up and securely support it on axle stands, but make sure that it is level. 3 Place a suitable container beneath the drain plug on the transmission sump pan. Remove the transmission fluid dipstick to speed up the draining operation. 4 Thoroughly clean the area around the drain plug in the transmission sump pan, then unscrew the plug and allow the fluid to drain into the container. 5 When all the fluid has drained (this may take quite some time) clean the drain plug, then refit it together with a new seal and tighten it securely. 6 Place a funnel with a fine mesh screen in the dipstick tube, and fill the transmission with

1•24 Every 30 000 miles or three years

25.13 The crankcase ventilation system foam filter is located in the air cleaner

housing on Zetec engines

25.5 Crankcase ventilation system filter on CVH engines

24.20 Air cleaner inlet and flap valve on the CVH engine

A Flap open (cool air inlet closed) B Warm air inlet

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Page 25

the specified type of fluid. It is essential that no dirt is introduced into the transmission during this operation. 7 Depending on the extent to which the fluid was allowed to drain, it is possible that the amount of fluid required when filling the transmission may be more than the specified amount (see “Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressures”). However, due to fluid remaining in the system, it is more likely that less than the specified amount will be required. Add about half the specified amount, then run the engine up to its normal operating temperature and check the level on the dipstick. When the level approaches the maximum mark, proceed as detailed in Section 20 to check the level and complete the final topping-up as described.

27 Handbrake adjustment

1 Chock the front wheels then jack up the rear of the car and support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Fully release the handbrake. 2 Check that the handbrake cables are correctly routed and secured by the retaining clips at the appropriate points under the vehicle. 3 The handbrake is checked for adjustment by measuring the amount of movement possible in the handbrake adjuster plungers. These are located on the inside face of each rear brake backplate (see illustration). The

total movement of the two plungers combined should be between 0.5 and 2.0 mm. If the movement measured is outside of this tolerance, the handbrake is in need of adjustment. Adjustment is made altering the position of the in-line cable adjuster sleeve. 4 When adjustment to the handbrake is necessary, a new adjustment sleeve locking pin will be required, and this must therefore be obtained before making the adjustment. 5 To adjust the handbrake, first ensure that it is fully released, then firmly apply the footbrake a few times to ensure that the rear brake adjustment is taken up by the automatic adjusters. Extract the locking pin from the adjuster sleeve (see illustration), then turn the sleeve to set the combined movement of the plungers within the tolerance

range specified (0.5 to 2.0 mm). Turn the locking nut by hand as tight as is possible (two clicks) against the adjustment sleeve. Now grip the locknut with a suitable wrench, and turn it a further two clicks (maximum). 6 Secure the adjustment by inserting the new lock pin. 7 Check that the operation of the handbrake is satisfactory, then lower the vehicle to the ground, apply the handbrake and remove the chocks from the front wheels.

28 Front wheel alignment check

Refer to Chapter 10, Section 29.

Every 30 000 miles or three years 1•25

27.5 Handbrake cable adjuster locking

pin (A), locknut (B) and adjuster sleeve (C)

27.3 Handbrake adjustment plunger

located on the inside face of each rear

brake backplate

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Every 40 000 miles

29 Timing belt renewal

Refer to Chapter 2, Part B or C as

applicable.

Every 60 000 miles

30 Fuel filter renewal

Warning: Petrol is extremely flammable, so extra precautions must be taken when working on

any part of the fuel system. Do not smoke, or allow open flames or bare light bulbs, near the work area. Also, do not work in a garage if a natural gas-type appliance with a pilot light is present. While performing any work on the fuel

system, wear safety glasses, and have a suitable (Class B) fire extinguisher on hand. If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and water.

1 On fuel injection engines, an in-line fuel filter is provided in the fuel pump outlet line. The filter is located in the engine compartment either below and behind the battery, or on the left-hand side of the engine compartment bulkhead. The renewal procedure is the same for both locations. The filter performs a vital role in keeping dirt and other foreign matter out of the fuel system, and so must be

renewed at regular intervals, or whenever you have reason to suspect that it may be clogged. It is always unpleasant working under a vehicle - pressure-washing or hosing clean the underbody in the filter’s vicinity will make working conditions more tolerable, and will reduce the risk of getting dirt into the fuel system. 2 Depressurise the fuel system as described in the relevant Part of Chapter 4. 3 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1), then position a suitable container beneath the fuel filter to catch escaping fuel. Have a rag handy to soak

Page 26

up the fuel when the feed and outlet pipe unions are disconnected. 4 On models without quick-release couplings on the fuel lines, slowly slacken the fuel feed pipe union allowing the pressure in the fuel pipe to reduce. When the pressure is fully released, disconnect the fuel feed and outlet pipe unions. 5 On models with quick-release couplings on the fuel lines, release the fuel feed and outlet pipe unions from the filter, by squeezing together the protruding locking lugs on each union, and carefully pulling the union off the filter stub (see illustration). Where the unions

are colour-coded, the feed and outlet pipes cannot be confused; where both unions are the same colour, note carefully which pipe is connected to which filter stub, and ensure that they are correctly reconnected on refitting. 6 Noting the arrows and/or other markings on the filter showing the direction of fuel flow (towards the engine), slacken the filter clamp bolt and withdraw the filter from the car (see illustrations). Note that the filter will still contain fuel; care should be taken, to avoid spillage and to minimise the risk of fire. 7 On installation, slide the filter into its clamp so that the arrow marked on it faces the

correct way, then reconnect and tighten the pipe unions or slide each pipe union on to its (correct) respective filter stub, and press it down until the locking lugs click into their groove. Tighten the clamp bolt carefully, until the filter is just prevented from moving; do not overtighten, or the filter casing may be crushed. 8 Refit the fuel pump fuse and reconnect the battery earth terminal, then switch the ignition on and off five times, to pressurise the system. Check for any sign of fuel leakage around the filter unions before lowering the vehicle to the ground and starting the engine.

1•26 Every 60 000 miles

30.6b Removing the bulkhead mounted fuel filter. Clamp bolt (arrowed)

30.6a Fuel filter location below battery

showing clamp bolt (arrowed). Note fuel

flow direction arrows on filter body

30.5 Releasing the fuel pipe unions from the filter on models with quick-release

couplings

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Every 3 years

31 Brake fluid renewal

The procedure is similar to that for the

bleeding of the hydraulic system as described in Chapter 9, except that the brake fluid reservoir should be emptied by syphoning, and allowance should be made for the old fluid to be removed from the circuit when bleeding a section of the circuit.

Page 27

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

General

Engine type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Four-cylinder, in-line overhead valve

Engine code:

1.0 litre carburettor models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . TLB

1.1 litre carburettor models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . GUE or GUD

1.1 litre CFi fuel injection models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . G6A

1.3 litre carburettor models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . JBC

1.3 litre CFi fuel injection models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . J6B

Capacity:

1.0 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 999 cc

1.1 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1118 cc

1.3 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1297 cc

Bore:

1.0 and 1.1 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68.68 mm

1.3 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73.96 mm

Stroke:

1.0 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67.40 mm

1.1 and 1.3 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75.48 mm

Compression ratio:

Carburettor models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.5:1

CFi fuel injection models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.8:1

Firing order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-2-4-3 (No 1 cylinder at timing chain end)

Direction of crankshaft rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clockwise (seen from right-hand side of vehicle)

Valves

Valve clearance (cold):

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.20 mm

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.30 mm

Chapter 2 Part A:

HCS engine in-car repair procedures

Auxiliary drivebelt check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1

Compression test - description and interpretation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Crankshaft oil seals - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

Crankshaft pulley - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Cylinder head - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Cylinder head rocker cover - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Cylinder head rocker gear - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . 6

Engine oil and filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1

Engine oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See

“Weekly Checks”

Engine/transmission mountings - inspection and renewal . . . . . . . . 15

Flywheel - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Oil pump - dismantling, inspection and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Oil pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

Sump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Timing chain cover - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

Timing chain, sprockets and tensioner - removal, inspection

and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Top Dead Centre (TDC) for No 1 piston - locating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Valve clearances - checking and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

2A•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable for

novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Page 28

Lubrication

Engine oil type/specification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See “Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressures”

Engine oil capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See “Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressures”

Oil pressure:

At idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.60 bars

At 2000 rpm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.50 bars

Oil pump clearances:

Outer rotor-to-body . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.14 to 0.26 mm

Inner rotor-to-outer rotor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.051 to 0.127 mm

Rotor endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.025 to 0.06 mm

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Camshaft thrust plate bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 4

Camshaft sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 13

Crankshaft pulley bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115 85

Rocker shaft pedestal bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 32

Flywheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 49

Sump:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 5

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7

Stage 3 (with engine warm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7

Oil pressure switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 10

Cylinder head bolts (may be re-used once only):

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 90º

Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 90º

Timing chain tensioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6

Timing chain cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7

Crankshaft rear oil seal housing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 13

Rocker cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 4

Oil pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 13

Oil pump cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7

Engine mountings:

Engine mounting (right-hand):

Bolt to body (in wheel arch) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 to 58 30 to 43

Nut to body (by suspension strut) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 to 58 30 to 43

Bracket to cylinder block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 to 72 40 to 53

Rubber insulator to bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 to 95 52 to 70

Transmission mounting fasteners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Refer to Chapter 7A or 7B

Note: Refer to Part D of this Chapter for remaining torque wrench settings.

2A•2 HCS engine in-car repair procedures

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

1 General information

How to use this Chapter

1.6 litre CVH and PTE engines, and the 1.6 and 1.8 litre Zetec engines, will be found in Parts B and C of this Chapter respectively. Since these procedures are based on the assumption that the engine is installed in the vehicle, if the engine has been removed from the vehicle and mounted on a stand, some of the preliminary dismantling steps outlined will not apply.

Information concerning engine/transmission removal and refitting, and engine overhaul, can be found in Part D of this Chapter, which also includes the Specifications relevant to those procedures.

Engine description

The engine is an overhead valve, watercooled, four cylinder in-line design, designated HCS (High Compression Swirl). The engine is mounted transversely at the front of the vehicle together with the transmission to form a combined power unit.

The crankshaft is supported in three or five shell-type main bearings. The connecting rod big-end bearings are also split shell-type, and are attached to the pistons by interference-fit gudgeon pins. Each piston is fitted with two compression rings and one oil control ring.

The camshaft, which runs on bearings within the cylinder block, is chain-driven from the crankshaft, and operates the valves via pushrods and rocker arms. The valves are each closed by a single valve spring, and operate in guides integral in the cylinder head.

The oil pump is mounted externally on the crankcase, incorporates a full-flow oil filter, and is driven by a skew gear on the camshaft. On carburettor versions, the fuel pump is also driven from the camshaft, via an eccentric lobe.

Repair operations possible with the engine in the car

The following work can be carried out with

the engine in the car:

a) Compression pressure - testing. b) Cylinder head rocker cover - removal

and refitting. c) Valve clearances - adjustment. d) Rocker shaft assembly - removal,

inspection and refitting. e) Cylinder head - removal and refitting f) Cylinder head and pistons -

decarbonising. g) Crankshaft pulley - removal and refitting. h) Crankshaft oil seals - renewal. i) Timing chain, sprockets and tensioner -

removal, inspection and refitting. j) Oil filter renewal. k) Oil pump - removal and refitting. l) Sump - removal and refitting. m) Flywheel - removal, inspection and

refitting. n) Engine/transmission mountings -

inspection and renewal. Note: It is possible to remove the pistons and

Page 29

connecting rods (after removing the cylinder head and sump) without removing the engine. However, this is not recommended. Work of this nature is more easily and thoroughly completed with the engine on the bench, as described in Chapter 2D.

2 Compression test -

description and interpretation

1 When engine performance is down, or if misfiring occurs which cannot be attributed to the ignition or fuel systems, a compression test can provide diagnostic clues as to the engine’s condition. If the test is performed regularly, it can give warning of trouble before any other symptoms become apparent. 2 The engine must be fully warmed-up to normal operating temperature, the oil level must be correct and the battery must be fully charged. The aid of an assistant will also be required. 3 On fuel injection engines, refer to Chapter 12 and remove the fuel pump fuse from the fusebox. Now start the engine and allow it to run until it stalls. 4 Disable the ignition system by disconnecting the multi-plug from the DIS or E-DIS ignition coil. Remove all the spark plugs with reference to Chapter 1 if necessary. 5 Fit a compression tester to the No 1 cylinder spark plug hole - the type of tester which screws into the plug thread is to be preferred. 6 Arrange for an assistant to hold the accelerator pedal fully depressed to the floor, while at the same time cranking the engine over for several seconds on the starter motor. Observe the compression gauge reading. The compression will build up fairly quickly in a healthy engine. Low compression on the first stroke, followed by gradually-increasing pressure on successive strokes, indicates worn piston rings. A low compression on the first stroke which does not rise on successive strokes, indicates leaking valves or a blown head gasket (a cracked cylinder head could also be the cause). Deposits on the underside of the valve heads can also cause low compression. Record the highest gauge reading obtained, then repeat the procedure for the remaining cylinders. 7 Due to the variety of testers available, and the fluctuation in starter motor speed when cranking the engine, different readings are often obtained when carrying out the compression test. For this reason, actual compression pressure figures are not quoted by Ford. However, the most important factor is that the compression pressures are uniform in all cylinders, and that is what this test is mainly concerned with. 8 Add some engine oil (about three squirts from a plunger type oil can) to each cylinder through the spark plug holes, and then repeat the test.

9 If the compression increases after the oil is added, it is indicative that the piston rings are definitely worn. If the compression does not increase significantly, the leakage is occurring at the valves or the head gasket. Leakage past the valves may be caused by burned valve seats and/or faces, or warped, cracked or bent valves. 10 If two adjacent cylinders have equally low compressions, it is most likely that the head gasket has blown between them. The appearance of coolant in the combustion chambers or on the engine oil dipstick would verify this condition. 11 If one cylinder is about 20 percent lower than the other, and the engine has a slightly rough idle, a worn lobe on the camshaft could be the cause. 12 On completion of the checks, refit the spark plugs and reconnect the HT leads and the ignition coil plug. Refit the fuel pump fuse to the fusebox.

3 Top Dead Centre (TDC) for

No 1 piston - locating

1 Top dead centre (TDC) is the highest point of the cylinder that each piston reaches as the crankshaft turns. Each piston reaches its TDC position at the end of its compression stroke, and then again at the end of its exhaust stroke. For the purpose of engine timing, TDC at the end of the compression stroke for No 1 piston is used. On the HCS engine, No 1 cylinder is at the crankshaft pulley/timing chain end of the engine. Proceed as follows. 2 Ensure that the ignition is switched off. Disconnect the HT leads from the spark plugs, then unscrew and remove the plugs as described in Chapter 1. 3 Turn the engine over by hand (using a spanner on the crankshaft pulley) to the point where the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley aligns with the TDC (0) mark or TDC reference pointer on the timing cover (see illustration). As the pulley mark nears the timing mark, the No 1 piston is simultaneously approaching the top of its cylinder. To ensure that it is on its compression stroke, place a finger over the No 1 cylinder plug hole, and

feel to ensure that air pressure exits from the cylinder as the piston reaches the top of its stroke. 4 A further check to ensure that the piston is on its compression stroke can be made by first removing the air cleaner (refer to the relevant Part of Chapter 4), then unbolting and removing the rocker cover, so that the movement of the valves and rockers can be observed. 5 With the TDC timing marks on the crankshaft pulley and timing cover in alignment, rock the crankshaft back and forth a few degrees each side of this position, and observe the action of the valves and rockers for No 1 cylinder. When No 1 piston is at the TDC firing position, the inlet and exhaust valve of No 1 cylinder will be fully closed, but the corresponding valves of No 4 cylinder will be seen to rock open and closed. 6 If the inlet and exhaust valves of No 1 cylinder are seen to rock whilst those of No 4 cylinder are shut, the crankshaft will need to be turned one full rotation to bring No 1 piston up to the top of its cylinder on the compression stroke. 7 Once No 1 cylinder has been positioned at TDC on the compression stroke, TDC for any of the other cylinders can then be located by rotating the crankshaft clockwise (in its normal direction of rotation), 180º at a time, and following the firing order (see Specifications).

4 Cylinder head rocker cover -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 Where necessary for access, remove the air cleaner as described in the relevant Part of Chapter 4. 2 Detach the HT leads from the spark plugs. Pull on the connector of each lead (not the lead itself), and note the order of fitting. 3 Remove the engine oil filler cap and breather hose (where fitted). 4 Unscrew the four retaining bolts, and lift the rocker cover clear of the cylinder head. Remove the gasket.

HCS engine in-car repair procedures 2A•3

3.3 Timing mark on the crankshaft pulley aligned with the TDC (0) mark on the timing cover

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Page 30

Refitting

5 Thoroughly clean the rocker cover, and scrape away any traces of old gasket remaining on the cover and cylinder head mating surfaces. 6 Fit a new gasket to the rocker cover, then refit the rocker cover (see illustrations). Tighten the cover retaining bolts to the specified torque wrench setting, in a diagonal sequence. 7 Reconnect the HT leads, and refit the air cleaner as described in Chapter 4.

5 Valve clearances -

checking and adjustment

Note: The valve clearances must be checked and adjusted only when the engine is cold.

1 The importance of having the valve clearances correctly adjusted cannot be overstressed, as they vitally affect the performance of the engine. If the clearances are too big, the engine will be noisy (characteristic rattling or tapping noises) and engine efficiency will be reduced, as the valves open too late and close too early. A more serious problem arises if the clearances are too small, however. If this is the case, the valves may not close fully when the engine is hot, resulting in serious damage to the engine (eg. burnt valve seats and/or cylinder head warping/cracking). The clearances are checked and adjusted as follows. 2 Set the engine to TDC for No 1 piston, as described in Section 3. 3 Remove the rocker cover as described in Section 4. 4 Starting from the thermostat end of the cylinder head, the valves are numbered as follows:

Valve No Cylinder No

1 - Exhaust 1 2 - Inlet 1 3 - Exhaust 2 4 - Inlet 2 5 - Inlet 3 6 - Exhaust 3 7 - Inlet 4 8 - Exhaust 4

5 Adjust the valve clearances following the sequence given in the following table. Turn the crankshaft pulley 180º (half a turn) after adjusting each pair of valve clearances.

Valves “rocking” Valves to adjust

7 and 8 1 (exhaust), 2 (inlet) 5 and 6 3 (exhaust), 4 (inlet) 1 and 2 8 (exhaust), 7 (inlet)

3 and 4 6 (exhaust), 5 (inlet) 6 The clearances for the inlet and exhaust valves differ (refer to the Specifications). Use a feeler gauge of the appropriate thickness to check each clearance between the end of the valve stem and the rocker arm (see illustration). The gauge should be a firm sliding fit between the valve and rocker arm. Where adjustment is necessary, turn the adjuster bolt as required with a ring spanner to set the clearance to that specified. The adjuster bolts are of stiff-thread type, and require no locking nut. 7 On completion, refit the rocker cover as described in Section 4.

6 Cylinder head rocker gear -

removal, inspection and refitting

Removal

1 Remove the rocker cover as described in Section 4. 2 Unscrew the four retaining bolts, and lift the rocker gear assembly from the cylinder head. As the assembly is withdrawn, ensure that the pushrods remain seated in their positions in the engine.

Inspection

3 To dismantle the rocker shaft assembly, extract the split pin from one end of the shaft, then withdraw the spring and plain washers from the shaft. 4 Slide off the rocker arms, the support pedestals and coil springs from the shaft, but

take care to keep them in their original order of fitting (see illustration). 5 Clean the respective components, and inspect them for signs of excessive wear or damage. Check that the oil lubrication holes in the shaft are clear. 6 Check the rocker shaft and arm pads which bear on the valve stem end faces for wear and scoring, and check each rocker arm on the shaft for excessive wear. Renew any components as necessary.

Refitting

7 Apply clean engine oil to the rocker shaft prior to reassembling.

2A•4 HCS engine in-car repair procedures

6.4 Rocker shaft partially dismantled for inspection

5.6 Adjusting the valve clearances4.6b Refitting the rocker cover4.6a Engage tags of rocker cover gasket

into the cut-outs in the cover

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Turning the engine will be easier if the spark plugs are removed first - see Chapter 1.

If the pushrods are to be removed, keep them in the correct order of fitting by labelling them 1 to 8, starting from the thermostat end of the cylinder head, or locate them in a card.

Page 31

8 Reassemble in the reverse order of dismantling. Make sure that the “flat” on the rear end of the rocker shaft is to the same side as the rocker arm adjusting screws (closest to the thermostat end of the cylinder head when fitted) (see illustration). This is essential for the correct lubrication of the cylinder head components. 9 Refit the rocker shaft assembly. As it is fitted, ensure that the rocker adjuster screws engage with their corresponding pushrods. 10 Refit the rocker shaft retaining bolts, hand-tighten them and then tighten them to the specified torque wrench setting. As they are tightened, some of the rocker arms will apply pressure to the ends of the valve stems, and some of the rocker pedestals will not initially be in contact with the cylinder head these should pull down as the bolts are tightened to their specified torque. If for any reason they do not, avoid the temptation to overtighten in order to pull them into position; loosen off the bolts, and check the cause of the problem. It may be that the rocker adjuster screws require loosening off in order to allow the assembly to be tightened down as required. 11 Adjust the valve clearances as described in Section 5.

7 Cylinder head -

removal and refitting

Removal

Note: The following procedure describes removal and refitting of the cylinder head complete with inlet and exhaust manifolds. If wished, the manifolds may be removed first, as described in the relevant Part of Chapter 4, and the cylinder head then removed on its own.

1 On fuel injection engines, depressurise the fuel system as described in Chapter 4, Part B. 2 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1). 3 Refer to Chapter 4A or 4B as applicable and remove the air cleaner. 4 Refer to Section 4 and remove the rocker cover.

5 Refer to Chapter 1 and drain the cooling system. 6 Disconnect the hoses from the thermostat housing. 7 Disconnect the heater (coolant) hoses from the inlet manifold and CFi unit, where applicable.

8 Disconnect the accelerator and choke cables as applicable (see Chapter 4A or 4B). 9 Disconnect the vacuum and breather hoses from the carburettor/CFi unit, and inlet manifold as applicable. 10 Disconnect the fuel feed and return lines at the carburettor, or at the quick-release couplings, then unclip the fuel hoses from the inlet manifold; use rag to soak up any spilt fuel. 11 Disconnect the HT leads from the spark plugs and the support bracket. Unscrew and remove the spark plugs. 12 Disconnect the electrical leads from the temperature gauge sender, radiator cooling fan, the engine coolant temperature sender, and the anti-run-on (anti-dieselling) valve at the carburettor. 13 Disconnect the remaining wiring multiplugs from the engine sensors at the inlet manifold and from the oxygen sensor (where fitted) in the exhaust manifold or downpipe. 14 On vehicles equipped with a pulse-air system, remove the pulse-air piping and filter assembly as described in Chapter 4E. 15 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the front of the car and support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). 16 Undo the retaining nuts and bolts, and disconnect the exhaust downpipe from the manifold. Remove the flange gasket. (Note that both the gasket and the joint self-locking nuts must be renewed.) To prevent the exhaust system from being strained, tie the downpipe up using strong wire or a length of cord to support it. Lower the vehicle. 17 Undo the four retaining bolts and lift clear the rocker gear assembly from the cylinder head. 18 Lift out the pushrods. Keep them in order of fitting by labelling them 1 to 8, starting from the thermostat end of the cylinder head. Alternatively, push them through a piece of card in their fitted sequence. 19 Progressively unscrew and loosen off the cylinder head retaining bolts in the reverse sequence to that shown for tightening (see illustration 7.27a). When they are all

loosened off, remove the bolts, then lift the cylinder head clear and remove the gasket. If it is stuck, tap it upwards using a hammer and block of wood. Do not try to turn it, as it is located by dowels; make no attempt whatsoever to prise it free using a screwdriver inserted between the block and head faces. The gasket must always be renewed; it should be noted that the cylinder head retaining bolts may be re-used, but only once. They should be marked accordingly with a punch or paint mark. If there is any doubt as to how many times the bolts have been used, they must be renewed. 20 To dismantle/overhaul the cylinder head, refer to Part D of this Chapter. It is normal for the cylinder head to be decarbonised and the valves to be reground whenever the head is removed.

Preparation for refitting

21 The mating faces of the cylinder head and cylinder block must be perfectly clean before refitting the head. Use a hard plastic or wood scraper to remove all traces of gasket and carbon; also clean the piston crowns. Take particular care during the cleaning operations, as aluminium alloy is easily damaged. Also, make sure that the carbon is not allowed to enter the oil and water passages - this is particularly important for the lubrication system, as carbon could block the oil supply to the engine’s components. Using adhesive tape and paper, seal the water, oil and bolt holes in the cylinder block.

22 Check the mating surfaces of the cylinder block and the cylinder head for nicks, deep scratches and other damage. If slight, they may be removed carefully with a file, but if excessive, machining may be the only alternative to renewal. 23 If warpage of the cylinder head gasket surface is suspected, use a straight-edge to check it for distortion. Refer to Part D of this Chapter if necessary. 24 Clean the threads of the cylinder head bolts or fit new ones (as applicable) and clean out the bolt holes in the block. Screwing a bolt into an oil-filled hole can (in extreme cases) cause the block to fracture, due to the hydraulic pressure.

Refitting

25 Check that the new cylinder head gasket is the same type as the original, and that the “TOP” (or “OBEN”) marking is facing upwards. Locate the new cylinder head

HCS engine in-car repair procedures 2A•5

6.8 Flat on the rocker shaft (arrowed) to

same side as rocker arm adjusting screws

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Whenever you disconnect any vacuum lines, coolant or emissions hoses, wiring

connectors and fuel lines, always label them clearly, so that they can be correctly reassembled. Masking tape and/or a touch-up paint applicator work well for marking items. Take instant photos, or sketch the locations of components and brackets.

To prevent carbon entering the gap between the pistons and bores, smear a little

grease in the gap. After cleaning each piston, use a small brush to remove all traces of grease and carbon from the gap, then wipe away the remainder with a clean rag.

Page 32

gasket onto the top face of the cylinder block and over the dowels. Ensure that it is correctly aligned with the coolant passages and oilways (see illustration). 26 Lower the cylinder head carefully into position, then insert the retaining bolts and hand-tighten them. 27 Tightening of the cylinder head bolts must done in three stages, and in the correct sequence (see illustration). First tighten all of the bolts in the sequence shown to the Stage 1 torque setting (see illustration). When all of the bolts are tightened to the Stage 1 setting, further tighten each bolt (in sequence) through the Stage 2 specified angle of rotation. When the second stage tightening is completed on all of the bolts, further tighten them to the Stage 3 angle setting (in sequence) to complete. Where possible, use an angular torque setting gauge attachment tool for accurate tightening of stages two and three (see illustration). 28 Lubricate the pushrods with clean engine oil, and then insert them into their original locations in the engine. 29 Refit the rocker shaft assembly. As it is fitted, ensure that the rocker adjuster screws engage with their corresponding pushrods. 30 Refit the rocker shaft retaining bolts, hand-tighten them and then tighten them to the specified torque wrench setting. As they are tightened, some of the rocker arms will apply pressure to the ends of the valve stems, and some of the rocker pedestals will not initially be in contact with the cylinder

head - these should pull down as the bolts are tightened. If for any reason they do not, avoid the temptation to overtighten in order to pull them into position; loosen off the bolts, and check the cause of the problem. It may be that the rocker adjuster screws require loosening off in order to allow the assembly to be tightened down as required. 31 Adjust the valve clearances as described in Section 5. 32 Refit the rocker cover as described in Section 4. 33 The remainder of the refitting procedure is a reversal of the removal process. Tighten all fastenings to their specified torque setting (where given). Refer to the appropriate Parts of Chapter 4 for details on reconnecting the fuel and exhaust system components. Ensure that all coolant, fuel, vacuum and electrical connections are securely made. 34 On completion, refill the cooling system and top-up the engine oil (see Chapter 1 and “Weekly Checks”). When the engine is restarted, check for any sign of fuel, oil and/or coolant leakages from the various cylinder head joints.

8 Crankshaft pulley -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1). 2 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the front of the car and support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove the right-hand front roadwheel. 3 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt as described in Chapter 1. 4 Loosen off the crankshaft pulley retaining bolt. To prevent the crankshaft from turning, unbolt and remove the clutch housing cover plate. Lock the starter ring gear on the flywheel using a large screwdriver or similar tool inserted through the cover plate aperture. Alternatively, remove the starter motor (Chapter 5A) and lock the ring gear through the starter motor aperture.

5 Fully unscrew the crankshaft pulley bolt, and withdraw the pulley from the front end of the crankshaft. If it does not pull off by hand, lever it free using a pair of suitable levers positioned diagonally opposite each other behind the pulley. 6 If required, the crankshaft front oil seal can be renewed at this stage, as described in Section 14.

Refitting

7 Refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure ensuring that the pulley retaining bolt is tightened to the specified torque setting. 8 Refit the auxiliary drivebelt as described in Chapter 1, and lower the vehicle to complete.

9 Timing chain cover -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 Remove the sump as described in Section 11. 2 Remove the crankshaft pulley as described in the previous Section. 3 A combined timing cover and water pump gasket is fitted during production; if this is still in position, it will be necessary to drain the cooling system and remove the water pump as described in Chapter 3. If the water pump and/or the timing cover have been removed at any time, the single gasket used originally will have been replaced by an individual gasket for each component, in which case the water pump can remain in position. 4 Unscrew the retaining bolts, and carefully prise free the timing chain cover. 5 Clean the mating faces of the timing chain cover, and the engine. 6 If necessary, renew the crankshaft front oil seal in the timing cover prior to refitting the cover (see Section 14).

Refitting

7 Lightly lubricate the front end of the crankshaft and the radial lip of the timing chain cover oil seal (already installed in the

2A•6 HCS engine in-car repair procedures

7.27c Cylinder head bolt tightening

(Stages 2 and 3) using an angle gauge

7.27b Tightening the cylinder head bolts (Stage 1)

7.27a Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence

7.25 Cylinder head gasket top-face marking (“OBEN”)

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Page 33

cover). Using a new gasket, fit the timing chain cover, centring it with the aid of the crankshaft pulley - lubricate the seal contact surfaces beforehand. Refit and tighten the retaining bolts but, where applicable, leave out the timing cover bolt which also secures the water pump at this stage. 8 Where applicable, refit the water pump as described in Chapter 3. 9 Refit the crankshaft pulley as described in the previous Section.

10 Refit the sump as described in Section 11.

10 Timing chain, sprockets and

tensioner - removal,

inspection and refitting

Removal

1 Remove the timing chain cover as described in the previous Section. 2 Remove the oil slinger from the front face of the crankshaft, noting its orientation (see

illustration). 3 Retract the chain tensioner cam back

against its spring pressure, then slide the chain tensioner arm from its pivot pin on the front main bearing cap (see illustration).

4 Unbolt and remove the chain tensioner. 5 Bend back the lockplate tabs from the

camshaft sprocket bolts, then unscrew and remove the bolts. 6 Withdraw the sprocket complete with the timing chain.

Inspection

7 Examine the teeth on the timing sprockets for any signs of excessive wear or damage. 8 The timing chain should always be renewed during a major engine overhaul. Slack links and pins are indicative of a worn chain. Unless the chain is known to be relatively new, it should be renewed. 9 Examine the rubber cushion on the tensioner spring leaf. If grooved or deteriorated, it must be renewed.

Refitting

10 Commence reassembly by bolting the timing chain tensioner into position. Check that the face of the tensioner cam is parallel with the face of the cylinder block, ideally using a dial gauge. The maximum permissible error between the two measuring points is

0.2 mm. Release and turn the timing chain tensioner as required to achieve this (if necessary). Refer to the Specifications for the correct tightening torque. 11 Turn the crankshaft so that the timing mark on its sprocket is directly in line with the centre of the camshaft sprocket mounting flange. 12 Engage the camshaft sprocket with the timing chain, then engage the chain around the teeth of the crankshaft sprocket. Push the camshaft sprocket onto its mounting flange, and check that the sprocket retaining bolt holes are in alignment (see illustration). Also

check that the timing marks of both sprockets face each other. If required, turn the camshaft/sprocket as required to achieve this. It may also be necessary to remove the camshaft from the chain in order to reposition it in the required location in the chain to align the timing marks. This is a “trial and error” procedure, which must be continued until the exact alignment of the bolt holes and the timing marks is made (see illustration). 13 Insert and tighten the camshaft sprocket retaining bolts to the specified torque wrench setting. Bend up the tabs of the new lockplate to secure (see illustration). 14 Retract the timing chain tensioner cam, and then slide the tensioner arm onto its pivot pin. Release the cam so that it bears on the arm. 15 Refit the oil slinger to the front of the crankshaft sprocket so that its convex side faces the sprocket. 16 Refit the timing chain cover as described in the previous Section.

11 Sump -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1). 2 Refer Chapter 1 and drain the engine oil. Refit the sump drain plug. 3 Undo the retaining nuts and detach the exhaust downpipe from the manifold flange. Note that the flange gasket should be renewed on reassembly. Allowing sufficient clearance for sump removal, tie the exhaust downpipe up with a suitable length of wire or cord to prevent the system straining the insulators. On catalytic converter-equipped vehicles, avoid straining the oxygen sensor wiring; if necessary, disconnect the sensor’s multi-plug.

4 Remove the starter motor (see Chapter 5A). 5 Undo the two retaining bolts and remove

the clutch housing cover plate and, where fitted, the auxiliary drivebelt lower cover from inside the right-hand wheel arch.

HCS engine in-car repair procedures 2A•7

10.12a Fit the timing chain to the

crankshaft and camshaft sprockets . . .

10.3 Chain tensioner arm removal from the pivot pin. Note tensioner retaining

bolts (arrowed)

10.2 Oil slinger removal from crankshaft

10.13 Bend locktabs against the camshaft retaining bolt heads to secure

10.12b . . . and check that the timing

marks on the sprockets are in alignment

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Page 34

6 Undo the eighteen bolts securing the sump to the base of the engine crankcase, then prise free and lower the sump. If the sump is stuck tight to the engine, cut around the flange gasket with a sharp knife, then lightly tap and prise it free. Keep the sump upright as it is lowered, to prevent spillage of any remaining oil in it. Also be prepared for oil drips from the crankcase when the sump is removed. 7 Remove any dirt and old gasket from the contact faces of the sump and crankcase, and wash the sump out thoroughly before refitting. Check that the mating faces of the sump are not distorted. Check that the oil pick-up strainer is clear, cleaning it if necessary.

Refitting

8 Clean the gasket location faces. Apply a dab of sealing compound to the mating faces where the ends of each cork half-gasket are to be fitted (see illustration). Stick the new cork gaskets into position on the block face, using clean thick grease to retain them, then locate the new rubber gaskets into their slots in the timing chain cover and rear oil seal carrier. The lugs of the cork gasket halves fit under the cut-outs in the rubber gaskets (see

illustration). 9 Before offering up the sump, check that the

gap between the sump and the oil baffle is between 2.0 and 3.8 mm (see illustration).

Do not use a dented or damaged sump, as the indicated dimension is important for correct engine lubrication. 10 Fit the sump into position, and fit the retaining bolts. Initially tighten them all fingertight, then further tighten them in the sequence shown through Stages 1 and 2, to the torque wrench settings specified (see illustration). Note that different tightening sequences are specified for the tightening stages. Final (Stage 3) tightening is carried out after the engine has been started and warmed up. 11 Refit the lower plate to the front face of the clutch housing and refit the auxiliary drivebelt lower cover.

12 Refit the starter motor. 13 Check that the downpipe and manifold

mating faces are clean, then locate a new gasket and reconnect the exhaust downpipe to the manifold. Where applicable, use new self-locking nuts, and tighten securely. 14 Check that the sump drain plug is fitted and tightened to the specified torque, then lower the vehicle to the ground. 15 Refill the engine with oil as described in Chapter 1. 16 Reconnect the battery, then start the engine and run it up to its normal operating temperature. Check that no oil leaks are evident around the sump joint. 17 After the engine has warmed up for approximately 15 minutes, switch it off. Tighten the sump bolts to the Stage 3 torque wrench setting given in the Specifications, in the sequence shown in illustration 11.10.

12 Oil pump -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 The oil pump is externally-mounted, on the rear-facing side of the crankcase. 2 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the front of the car and support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). 3 Unscrew and remove the oil filter cartridge. It should unscrew by hand, but will probably be tight. Use a strap wrench to loosen it off, if required. Catch any oil spillage in a suitable container. 4 Undo the three retaining bolts and withdraw the oil pump from the engine (see

illustration). 5 Clean all traces of the old gasket from the

mating surfaces of the pump and engine.

Refitting

6 If the original oil pump has been dismantled and reassembled and is to be re-used, or if a new pump is to be fitted, it must first be primed with engine oil prior to fitting. To do this, turn its driveshaft and simultaneously inject clean engine oil into it. 7 Locate a new gasket into position on the pump mounting flange, then insert the pump, engaging the drivegear as it is fitted (see illustration). Fit the retaining bolts, and tighten to the specified torque wrench setting.

2A•8 HCS engine in-car repair procedures

12.7 Refitting the oil pump. Note the new gasket

12.4 Unscrewing the oil pump retaining bolts

11.10 Sump bolt tightening sequence -

arrow indicates crankshaft pulley end of

engine

See Specifications for torque wrench settings Stage 1 - Tighten in alphabetical order Stage 2 - Tighten in numerical order Stage 3 - Tighten in alphabetical order

11.9 Sump (A) and oil baffle (B) clearance details

11.8b Lugs of cork gasket halves to fit

under the cut-outs in the rubber gaskets

11.8a Sump gasket fitting details at the

timing chain cover end (A) and the flywheel

end (B)

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Page 35

8 Fit a new oil filter into position on the oil pump body, as described in Chapter 1. 9 Lower the vehicle to the ground, and topup the engine oil as described in “Weekly

Checks”.

13 Oil pump - dismantling,

inspection and reassembly

Dismantling

1 To inspect the oil pump components for excessive wear, undo the retaining bolts and remove the cover plate from the pump body. Remove the O-ring seal from the cover face

(see illustration). 2 Wipe the exterior of the pump housing

clean housing.

Inspection

3 Noting their orientation, extract and clean the rotors and the inner body of the pump housing. Inspect them for signs of severe scoring or excessive wear, which if evident will necessitate renewal of the complete pump. 4 Using feeler gauges, check the clearances between the pump body and the outer rotor, the inner-to-outer rotor clearance, and the amount of rotor endfloat (see illustrations).

5 Check the drivegear for signs of excessive wear or damage. 6 If the clearances measured are outside the specified maximum clearances and/or the drivegear is in poor condition, the complete pump unit must be renewed.

Reassembly

7 Refit the rotors into the pump (in their original orientation), lubricate the rotors and the new O-ring seal with clean engine oil, and refit the cover. Tighten the retaining bolts to the specified torque wrench setting.

14 Crankshaft oil seals -

renewal

Front oil seal

1 Remove the crankshaft pulley as described in Section 8. 2 Using a suitable claw tool, extract the oil seal from the timing chain cover, but take care not to damage the seal housing. As it is removed, note the fitted orientation of the seal in the cover. 3 Clean the oil seal housing in the timing chain cover. Lubricate the sealing lips of the new seal and the crankshaft stub with clean engine oil. 4 Locate the new seal into position so that it

is squarely located on the crankshaft stub and in the housing, and is correctly orientated. Drift it into position using a large socket, another suitable tool, or the old seal, until the new seal is flush with the edge of the timing chain cover. 5 Lightly lubricate the rubbing surface of the crankshaft pulley, then refit the pulley as described in Section 8.

Rear oil seal

6 Remove the flywheel as described in Section 16. 7 Using a suitable claw tool, lever the seal from the rear seal housing (taking care not to damage the housing). As it is removed, note the fitted orientation of the seal. 8 Clean the seal housing, the crankshaft rear flange face and the flywheel mating surface. 9 One of two possible methods may be used to insert the new oil seal, depending on the tools available. 10 If Ford service tool No 21-011 is available, lubricate the crankshaft flange and the oil seal inner lip with clean engine oil. Position the seal onto the service tool (ensuring correct orientation), then press the seal into its housing. 11 If the service tool is not available, remove the engine sump (Section 11), then unscrew the Torx-head bolts retaining the rear seal housing in position, and remove the seal housing from the rear face of the cylinder block. New gaskets will be required for both the seal housing and the sump when refitting. Clean the seal housing seat and the mating surfaces of the sump and the crankcase. To fit the seal squarely into its housing without damaging either component, place a flat block of wood across the seal, then carefully tap the seal into position in the housing (see illustration). Do not allow the seal to tilt as it is being fitted. Lubricate the crankshaft flange and the oil seal inner lip with clean engine oil, then with a new gasket located on the seal housing/crankcase face, fit the housing into position. Take care not damage the seal lips as it is passed over the crankshaft rear flange

HCS engine in-car repair procedures 2A•9

13.4b Checking the inner rotor-to-outer rotor clearance

13.4a Checking the outer body-to-rotor clearance

13.1 Extract the O-ring from the groove in the oil pump

14.11a Positioning the crankshaft rear oil seal in its housing

13.4c Checking the rotor endfloat

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Page 36

(see illustration). Centralise the seal on the shaft, then insert and tighten the housing retaining bolts to the specified torque setting. Refit the sump with reference to Section 11. 12 Check that the crankshaft rear flange and the flywheel mating faces are clean, then refit the flywheel as described in Section 16.

15 Engine/transmission

mountings - inspection and

renewal

Inspection

1 The engine/transmission mountings seldom require attention, but broken or deteriorated mountings should be renewed immediately, or the added strain placed on the driveline components may cause damage or wear. 2 During the check, the engine/transmission must be raised slightly, to remove its weight from the mountings. 3 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the front of the car and support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Position a jack under the sump, with a large block of wood between the jack head and the sump, then carefully raise the engine/transmission just enough to take the weight off the mountings. 4 Check the mountings to see if the rubber is cracked, hardened or separated from the

metal components. Sometimes, the rubber will split right down the centre. 5 Check for relative movement between each mounting’s brackets and the engine/transmission or body (use a large screwdriver or lever to attempt to move the mountings). If movement is noted, lower the engine and check-tighten the mounting fasteners.

Renewal

6 The engine mountings can be removed if the weight of the engine/transmission is supported by one of the following alternative methods. 7 Either support the weight of the assembly from underneath using a jack and a suitable piece of wood between the jack saddle and the sump or transmission (to prevent damage), or from above by attaching a hoist to the engine. A third method is to use a suitable support bar with end pieces which will engage in the water channel each side of the bonnet lid aperture. Using an adjustable

hook and chain connected to the engine, the weight of the engine and transmission can then be taken from the mountings.

Engine right-hand mounting

8 Unscrew and remove the mounting side

bolt from under the right-hand wheel arch

(see illustration). 9 Unscrew and remove the mounting

retaining nut and washer from the suspension strut cup retaining plate (see illustration). 10 Undo the three bolts securing the mounting unit to the cylinder block. The mounting unit and bracket can then be lowered from the engine (see illustration). 11 Unbolt and remove the mounting from its support bracket.

Transmission bearer and mountings

12 Unscrew and remove the two nuts

securing the mountings (front and rear) to the transmission bearer (see illustration). 13 Support the transmission bearer, then undo and remove the four retaining bolts from the floorpan, two at the front and two at the

2A•10 HCS engine in-car repair procedures

15.12 Exploded view of the transmission bearer mountings

15.10 Undo the three bolts securing the

mounting assembly to the cylinder block

and withdraw the mounting

15.9 Unscrew and remove the mounting retaining nut and washer from the

suspension strut cup retaining plate

15.8 Unscrew and remove the engine

mounting side bolt (arrowed) from under

the wheel arch

14.11b Fitting the rear oil seal housing

with a new gasket in position on the rear

face of the cylinder block

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Page 37

rear, and lower the transmission bearer from the vehicle. Note plate fitment, as applicable, for reassembly. 14 Unscrew the single nut securing each mounting and its retainer to the transmission support bracket, and remove. The transmission support brackets are fixed externally to the transmission casing and do not need to be removed for this operation.

All mountings

15 Refitting of all mountings is a reversal of

removal. Make sure that the original sequence of assembly of washers and plates is maintained. 16 Do not fully tighten any mounting bolts until they are all located. As the mounting bolts and nuts are tightened, check that the mounting rubbers do not twist.

16 Flywheel - removal, inspection

and refitting

Refitting

1 Remove the transmission as described in Chapter 7A, then remove the clutch as described in Chapter 6.

2 Unscrew the six retaining bolts, and remove the flywheel from the rear end flange of the crankshaft - take care not to drop the flywheel, as it is heavy. A tool similar to that shown in illustration 16.5 can be fitted to prevent the flywheel/crankshaft from rotating as the bolts are removed. If on removal, the retaining bolts are found to be in poor condition (stretched threads, etc) they must be renewed.

Inspection

3 Inspect the starter ring gear on the flywheel for any broken or excessively-worn teeth. If evident, the ring gear must be renewed; this is a task best entrusted to a Ford dealer or a competent garage. Alternatively, obtain a complete new flywheel. 4 The clutch friction surface on the flywheel must be carefully inspected for grooving or hairline cracks (caused by overheating). If these conditions are evident, it may be possible to have the flywheel surface-ground to renovate it, providing that the balance is not upset. Regrinding is a task for an automotive engineer. If surface-grinding is not possible, the flywheel must be renewed.

Refitting

5 Check that the mating faces of the flywheel

and the crankshaft are clean before refitting. Lubricate the threads of the retaining bolts with engine oil before they are screwed into position. Locate the flywheel onto the crankshaft, and insert the bolts. Hand-tighten them initially, then tighten them in a progressive sequence to the specified torque wrench setting (see illustration). 6 Refit the clutch as described in Chapter 6 and the transmission as described in Chapter 7A.

HCS engine in-car repair procedures 2A•11

16.5 Tightening the flywheel retaining bolts to the specified torque

Note the “peg” tool (arrowed) locking the ring

gear teeth to prevent the flywheel/crankshaft

from rotating

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Page 38

2A•12 HCS engine in-car repair procedures

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Notes

Page 39

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

General

Engine type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Four-cylinder, in-line overhead camshaft

Engine code:

1.4 litre CVH engine:

Carburettor models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . FUF or FUG

CFi fuel injection models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . F6E

1.4 litre PTE engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . F4A

1.6 litre CVH engine:

Carburettor models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . LUH

EFi fuel injection models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . LJC or LJD

Turbo models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . LHA

Capacity:

1.4 litre CVH and PTE engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1392 cc

1.6 litre CVH engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1596 cc

Bore:

1.4 litre CVH and PTE engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.24 mm

1.6 litre CVH engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.96 mm

Stroke:

1.4 litre CVH and PTE engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74.30 mm

1.6 litre CVH engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.52 mm

Compression ratio:

1.4 litre CVH carburettor engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.5:1

1.4 litre CVH CFi fuel injection engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.5:1

1.4 litre PTE engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.5:1

1.6 litre CVH engine:

Carburettor models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.5:1

EFi fuel injection models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.75:1

Turbo models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.0:1

Firing order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-3-4-2 (No 1 cylinder at timing belt end)

Direction of crankshaft rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clockwise (seen from right-hand side of vehicle)

Chapter 2 Part B:

CVH and PTE engine in-car repair procedures

Auxiliary drivebelt check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1

Camshaft oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Camshaft, rocker arms and tappets - removal, inspection

and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Compression test - description and interpretation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Crankshaft oil seals - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

Crankshaft pulley - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Cylinder head - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

Cylinder head rocker cover - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Engine oil and filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1

Engine oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See

“Weekly Checks”

Engine/transmission mountings - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

Flywheel/driveplate - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . 18

General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Oil pump - dismantling, inspection and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

Oil pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

Sump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Timing belt - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Timing belt covers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Timing belt tensioner and sprockets - removal, inspection

and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

Top Dead Centre (TDC) for No 1 piston - locating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Valve clearances - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

2B•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable for

novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Page 40

Cylinder head

Hydraulic tappet bore inside diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22.235 to 22.265 mm

Camshaft

Camshaft bearing journal diameter:

Bearing 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44.75 mm

Bearing 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45.00 mm

Bearing 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45.25 mm

Bearing 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45.50 mm

Bearing 5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45.75 mm

Camshaft bearing journal-to-cylinder head running clearance . . . . . . . 0.033 to 0.058 mm

Camshaft endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.05 to 0.13 mm

Camshaft thrust plate thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.99 to 5.01 mm

Lubrication

Engine oil type/specification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See “Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressures”

Engine oil capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See “Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressures”

Oil pressure:

Idling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 bar

At 2000 rpm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.8 bars

Oil pump clearances:

Outer rotor-to-body . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.060 to 0.190 mm

Inner rotor-to-outer rotor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.05 to 0.18 mm

Rotor endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.014 to 0.100 mm

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Oil pump to cylinder block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 14

Oil pump cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7

Oil pump pick-up to cylinder block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7

Oil pump pick-up to pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7

Oil cooler threaded sleeve to cylinder block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 42

Rear oil seal housing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7

Flywheel/driveplate bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87 64

Cylinder head bolts:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37

Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 90º

Stage 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 90º

Crankshaft pulley bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108 80

Camshaft thrust plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 8

Camshaft toothed belt sprocket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 42

Timing belt tensioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 13

Rocker studs in cylinder head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

Rocker arms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 20

Rocker cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 5

Timing belt cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7

Sump:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 5

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 5

Engine mountings (CVH engines):

Engine mounting (right-hand):

Bolt to body (in wheel arch) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 to 58 30 to 43

Nut to body (by suspension strut) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 to 58 30 to 43

Bracket to cylinder block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 to 72 40 to 53

Rubber insulator to bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 to 95 52 to 70

Transmission mounting fasteners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Refer to Chapter 7A or 7B

Engine mountings (PTE engines):

Engine mounting (right-hand):

Bolt to body (in wheel arch) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37

Nut to body (by suspension strut) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 47

Transmission mounting fasteners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Refer to Chapter 7A or 7B

Note: Refer to Part D of this Chapter for remaining torque wrench settings.

2B•2 CVH and PTE engine in-car repair procedures

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

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1 General information

How to use this Chapter

This Part of Chapter 2 is devoted to repair procedures possible while the engine is still installed in the vehicle, and includes only the Specifications relevant to those procedures. Similar information concerning the 1.3 litre HCS engine, and the 1.6 and 1.8 litre Zetec engines, will be found in Parts A and C of this Chapter respectively. Since these procedures are based on the assumption that the engine is installed in the vehicle, if the engine has been removed from the vehicle and mounted on a stand, some of the preliminary dismantling steps outlined will not apply.

Information concerning engine/transmission removal and refitting, and engine overhaul, can be found in Part D of this Chapter, which also includes the Specifications relevant to those procedures.

Engine description

The engine is a four-cylinder, in-line overhead camshaft type, designated CVH (Compound Valve angle, Hemispherical combustion chamber) or PTE (Pent roof, high Torque, low Emission). The PTE engine was introduced for 1994 and, apart from modifications to the cylinder head, camshaft and intake system, is virtually identical to the CVH engine it replaces. The engine is mounted transversely at the front of the vehicle together with the transmission to form a combined power unit.

The crankshaft is supported in five splitshell type main bearings within the cast-iron crankcase. The connecting rod big-end bearings are split-shell type, and the pistons are attached by interference-fit gudgeon pins. Each piston has two compression rings and one oil control ring.

The cylinder head is of light alloy construction, and supports the camshaft in five bearings. Camshaft drive is by a toothed composite rubber timing belt, which is driven by a sprocket on the front end of the crankshaft. The timing belt also drives the water pump, which is mounted below the cylinder head.

Hydraulic cam followers (tappets) operate the rocker arms and valves. The tappets are operated by pressurised engine oil. When a valve closes, the oil passes through a port in the body of the cam follower, through four grooves in the plunger and into the cylinder feed chamber. From the chamber, the oil flows to a ball-type non-return valve and into the pressure chamber. The tension of the coil spring causes the plunger to press against the valve, and so eliminates any free play. As the cam lifts the follower, the oil pressure in the pressure chamber is increased, and the non-return valve closes off the port feed chamber. This in turn provides a rigid link between the cam follower, the cylinder and the plunger. These then rise as

a unit to open the valve. The cam follower-tocylinder clearance allows the specified quantity of oil to pass from the pressure chamber, oil only being allowed past the cylinder bore when the pressure is high during the moment of the valve opening. When the valve closes, the escape of oil will produce a small clearance, and no pressure will exist in the pressure chamber. The feed chamber oil then flows through the nonreturn valve and into the pressure chamber, so that the cam follower cylinder can be raised by the pressure of the coil spring, eliminating free play until the valve is operated again.

As wear occurs between the rocker arm and the valve stem, the quantity of oil that flows into the pressure chamber will be slightly more than the quantity lost during the expansion cycle of the cam follower. Conversely, when the cam follower is compressed by the expansion of the valve, a slightly smaller quantity of oil will flow into the pressure chamber than was lost.

A rotor-type oil pump is mounted on the timing cover end of the engine, and is driven by a gear on the front end of the crankshaft. A full-flow type oil filter is fitted, and is mounted on the side of the crankcase.

Repair operations possible with the engine in the car

The following work can be carried out with the engine in the car:

a) Compression pressure - testing. b) Rocker cover - removal and refitting. c) Timing belt - removal, refitting and

adjustment. d) Camshaft oil seal - renewal. e) Camshaft - removal and refitting. f) Cylinder head - removal and refitting. g) Cylinder head and pistons - decarbonising. h) Crankshaft pulley - removal and refitting. i) Crankshaft oil seals - renewal. j) Oil filter renewal. k) Sump - removal and refitting. l) Flywheel - removal, inspection and refitting. m) Mountings - removal and refitting. Note: It is possible to remove the pistons and connecting rods (after removing the cylinder head and sump) without removing the engine. However, this is not recommended. Work of this nature is more easily and thoroughly completed with the engine on the bench, as described in Chapter 2D.

2 Compression test -

description and interpretation

Refer to Section 2 in Part A of this Chap-

ter.

3 Top Dead Centre (TDC) for

No 1 piston - locating

1 Top dead centre (TDC) is the highest point of the cylinder that each piston reaches as the crankshaft turns. Each piston reaches its TDC position at the end of its compression stroke, and then again at the end of its exhaust stroke. For the purpose of engine timing, TDC on the compression stroke for No 1 piston is used. No 1 cylinder is at the timing belt end of the engine. Proceed as follows. 2 Remove the upper timing belt cover as described in Section 7. 3 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the front of the car and support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). 4 Undo the retaining bolts, and remove the cover from the underside of the crankshaft pulley. 5 Fit a spanner onto the crankshaft pulley bolt, and turn the crankshaft in its normal direction of rotation (clockwise, viewed from the pulley end) to the point where the crankshaft pulley timing notch is aligned with the TDC (0) timing mark on the timing belt cover.

6 Although the crankshaft is now in top dead centre alignment, with piston Nos 1 and 4 at the top of their stroke, the No 1 piston may not be on its compression stroke. To confirm that it is, check that the timing pointer on the camshaft sprocket is exactly aligned with the TDC mark on the front face of the cylinder head (see illustrations). If the pointer is not aligned, turn the crankshaft pulley one further

CVH and PTE engine in-car repair procedures 2B•3

3.6b Camshaft sprocket timing mark

aligned with the TDC mark on the front

face of the cylinder head

3.6a Crankshaft pulley notch (arrowed) aligned with the TDC (0) mark on the

timing belt cover

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Turning the engine will be easier if the spark plugs are removed first - see Chapter 1.

Page 42

complete turn, and all the markings should now align. 7 With the engine set at No 1 piston on TDC compression, refit the crankshaft pulley cover, lower the vehicle and refit the upper timing belt cover.

4 Cylinder head rocker cover -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1). 2 Remove the air cleaner assembly and air inlet components as necessary for access as described in the relevant Part of Chapter 4. Disconnect the crankcase ventilation hose from the rocker cover. 3 Remove the timing belt upper cover as described in Section 7. 4 Referring to the relevant Part of Chapter 4 for details, disconnect the accelerator cable from the throttle linkage and from the adjuster bracket above the rocker cover. Position the cable out of the way. 5 Where applicable, disconnect the choke cable from the carburettor, referring to Chapter 4A for details. 6 Unscrew and remove the rocker cover retaining bolts and washers, then lift the cover from the cylinder head. Note that a new rocker cover gasket will be needed on refitting.

Refitting

7 Before refitting the rocker cover, clean the mating surfaces of both the cylinder head and the cover. 8 Locate the new gasket in position, then fit the cover retaining bolts and washers. Ensure that the grooves in the plate washers are facing upwards as they are fitted (see illustrations). Tighten the cover retaining bolts to the specified torque wrench setting. Refer to Chapter 4 for details on reconnecting the accelerator cable, choke cable, air inlet components and air cleaner (as applicable). 9 Refit the timing belt cover and reconnect the battery earth lead.

5 Valve clearances -

general information

It is necessary for a clearance to exist between the tip of each valve stem and the valve operating mechanism, to allow for the expansion of the various components as the engine reaches normal operating temperature.

On most older engine designs, this meant that the valve clearances (also known as “tappet” clearances) had to be checked and adjusted regularly. If the clearances were allowed to be too slack, the engine would be very noisy, its power output would suffer, and its fuel consumption would increase. If the clearances were allowed to be too tight, the engine’s power output would be reduced, and the valves and their seats could be severely damaged.

These engines employ hydraulic tappets which use the lubricating system’s oil pressure to automatically take up the clearance between each camshaft lobe and its respective valve stem. Therefore, there is no need for regular checking and adjustment of the valve clearances. However, it is essential that only good-quality oil of the recommended viscosity and specification is used in the engine, and that this oil is always changed at the recommended intervals. If this advice is not followed, the oilways and tappets may become clogged with particles of dirt, or deposits of burnt (inferior) engine oil, so that the system cannot work properly; ultimately, one or more of the tappets may fail, and expensive repairs may be required.

On starting the engine from cold, there will be a slight delay while full oil pressure builds up in all parts of the engine, especially in the tappets; the valve components, therefore, may well “rattle” for about 10 seconds or so, and then quieten. This is a normal state of affairs, and is nothing to worry about, provided that all tappets quieten quickly and stay quiet.

After the vehicle has been standing for several days, the valve components may “rattle” for longer than usual, as nearly all the

oil will have drained away from the engine’s top-end components and bearing surfaces. While this is only to be expected, care must be taken not to damage the engine under these circumstances - avoid high-speed running until all the tappets are refilled with oil and operating normally. With the vehicle stationary, hold the engine at no more than a fast idle speed (maximum 2000 to 2500 rpm) for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the noise ceases. Do not run the engine at more than 3000 rpm until the tappets are fully charged with oil and the noise has ceased.

If the valve components are thought to be noisy, or if a light rattle persists from the top end after the engine has warmed up to normal operating temperature, take the vehicle to a Ford dealer for expert advice. Depending on the mileage covered and the usage to which each vehicle has been put, some vehicles may be noisier than others; only a good mechanic experienced in these engines can tell if the noise level is typical for the vehicle’s mileage, or if a genuine fault exists. If any tappet’s operation is faulty, it must be renewed (Section 11).

6 Crankshaft pulley -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1). 2 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the front of the car and support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). 3 Unbolt and remove the cover from the underside of the crankshaft pulley. 4 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt as described in Chapter 1. 5 If timing belt renewal is also intended, set the engine at TDC as described in Section 3 before removing the crankshaft pulley and retaining bolt. 6 To prevent the crankshaft from turning as the pulley bolt is loosened off, remove the starter motor as described in Chapter 5A, and then lock the starter ring gear using a suitable lever (see illustration).

2B•4 CVH and PTE engine in-car repair procedures

6.6 Using a suitable bar to lock the flywheel ring gear

4.8b Rocker cover retaining bolts and plate washers

4.8a Fitting a new gasket to the rocker cover

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Page 43

7 Unscrew and remove the crankshaft pulley retaining bolt and its washer. Withdraw the pulley from the front end of the crankshaft (see illustration). If necessary, lever it free using a pair of diagonally-opposed levers positioned behind the pulley.

Refitting

8 Refit in the reverse order of removal. Tighten the pulley retaining bolt to the specified torque setting, and refer to Chapter 1 for details on refitting the auxiliary drivebelt. 9 On completion, reconnect the battery negative lead.

7 Timing belt covers -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1). 2 Where applicable, undo the two bolts securing the power steering fluid pipe support clips and ease the pipe away from the upper cover. 3 Undo the two retaining bolts and remove the upper timing belt cover (see illustration). 4 Refer to the previous Section for details, and remove the crankshaft pulley. 5 Unscrew the two bolts securing the lower timing belt cover, and remove it (see illustration).

Refitting

6 Refit in the reverse order of removal. Tighten the cover retaining bolts to the specified torque wrench setting. 7 On completion, reconnect the battery earth lead.

8 Timing belt - removal, refitting

and adjustment

Removal

1 Referring to the previous Sections for details, remove the rocker cover, the crankshaft pulley and the timing belt covers. 2 Check that the crankshaft is set with the No 1 piston at TDC (on its compression stroke) before proceeding. If necessary, refer to Section 3 for further details. 3 To check the timing belt for correct adjustment, proceed as described in paragraph 12 below. To remove the belt, proceed as follows. 4 Loosen off the two bolts securing the timing belt tensioner. Using a large screwdriver, prise the tensioner to one side to release the timing belt tension. Secure the tensioner in this position by retightening the bolts (see

illustration). 5 If the original timing belt is to be refitted,

mark it for direction of travel and also the exact tooth engagement positions on all

sprockets. Slip the belt from the camshaft, water pump and crankshaft sprockets (see illustration). Whilst the timing belt is removed, avoid any excessive movement of the sprockets, otherwise the piston crowns and valves may come into contact and be damaged. 6 If the belt is being removed for reasons other than routine renewal, check it carefully for any signs of uneven wear, splitting, cracks (especially at the roots of the belt teeth) or contamination with oil or coolant. Renew the belt if there is the slightest doubt about its condition. As a safety measure, the belt must be renewed as a matter of course at the intervals given in Chapter 1; if its history is unknown, the belt should be renewed irrespective of its apparent condition whenever the engine is overhauled.

Refitting and adjustment

7 Before refitting the belt, check that the crankshaft is still at the TDC position, with the small projection on the belt sprocket front flange aligned with the TDC mark on the oil pump housing (see illustration). Also ensure that the camshaft sprocket is set with its TDC pointer aligned with the corresponding timing mark on the cylinder head (see illus- tration 3.6b). If necessary, adjust the sprockets slightly. As previously mentioned, avoid any excessive movement of the sprockets whilst the belt is removed. 8 Engage the timing belt teeth with the teeth

CVH and PTE engine in-car repair procedures 2B•5

7.5 Lower timing belt cover removal7.3 Upper timing belt cover removal6.7 Crankshaft pulley removal

8.7 Sprocket and oil pump housing TDC marks in alignment

8.5 Timing belt removal8.4 Timing belt tensioner retaining bolts

(arrowed)

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Page 44

of the crankshaft sprocket, and then pull the belt vertically upright on its right-hand run. Keep it taut, and engage it with the teeth of the camshaft sprocket. If the original belt is being refitted, check that the belt’s direction of travel is correct, and realign the belt-tosprocket marks made during removal, to ensure that the exact original engagement positions are retained. When the belt is fully fitted on the sprockets, check that the sprocket positions have not altered. 9 Carefully manoeuvre the belt around the tensioner, and engage its teeth with the water pump sprocket, again ensuring that the TDC positions of the crankshaft and camshaft are not disturbed as the belt is finally located. 10 Refit the lower timing belt cover, and tighten its retaining bolts to the specified torque setting. Refit the crankshaft pulley, and tighten its retaining bolt to the specified torque setting. 11 To take up belt slack, loosen off the tensioner and move it towards the front of the car to apply an initial tension to the belt. Secure the tensioner in this position, then remove the flywheel ring gear locking device. 12 Rotate the crankshaft through two full revolutions in (the normal direction of travel), returning to the TDC position (camshaft sprocket-to-cylinder head). Check that the crankshaft pulley notch is aligned with the TDC (0) mark on the lower half of the timing belt cover. 13 Grasp the belt between the thumb and forefinger, at the midway point between the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets on the right-hand side. If the belt tension is correct, it should just be possible to twist the belt through 90º at this point (see illustration). To adjust the belt, loosen off the tensioner retaining bolts, move the tensioner as required using a suitable screwdriver as a lever, then retighten the retaining bolts. Rotate the crankshaft to settle the belt, then recheck the tension. It may take two or three attempts to get the tension correct. On completion, tighten the tensioner bolts to the specified torque wrench setting. 14 It should be noted that this setting is approximate, and the belt tension should be rechecked by a Ford dealer with the special

tensioner-setting tool at the earliest opportunity. 15 Refit the starter motor (refer to Chapter 5A). 16 Refit the rocker cover (see Section 4) and the upper timing belt cover (see Section 7). 17 Refit the auxiliary drivebelt, adjust its tension as described in Chapter 1, then refit the crankshaft pulley lower cover. 18 On completion, reconnect the battery earth lead.

9 Timing belt tensioner and

sprockets - removal,

inspection and refitting

Tensioner

1 Set the engine at TDC for No 1 piston on compression as described in Section 3, then refer to Section 7 and remove the timing belt upper cover. 2 Loosen off the two bolts securing the timing belt tensioner. Using a large screwdriver, prise the tensioner to one side to release the timing belt tension. 3 Remove the two tensioner bolts, and withdraw the tensioner from behind the timing belt. 4 Check the condition of the tensioner, ensuring that it rotates smoothly on its bearings, with no signs of roughness or excessive free play. Renew the tensioner if in doubt about its condition. 5 To refit the tensioner, first check that the engine is still positioned at TDC for No 1 piston on compression, with both the camshaft and crankshaft sprocket timing marks correctly aligned as described in Section 3. 6 Refit the tensioner, guiding it in position around the timing belt, and secure with the two bolts. Move the tensioner towards the front of the car, to apply an initial tension to the belt. Secure the tensioner in this position. 7 Adjust the timing belt tension as described in Section 8, paragraphs 12 to 14. 8 Refit the timing belt upper cover on completion.

Camshaft sprocket

9 Set the engine at TDC for No 1 piston on compression as described in Section 3, then refer to Section 7 and remove the timing belt upper cover. 10 Loosen off the two bolts securing the timing belt tensioner. Using a large screwdriver, prise the tensioner to one side to release the timing belt tension. Slip the timing belt off the camshaft sprocket. 11 Pass a bar through one of the holes in the camshaft sprocket to prevent the camshaft from rotating, then unscrew and remove the sprocket retaining bolt. Note that this bolt must be renewed when refitting the camshaft sprocket. Remove the sprocket, noting the Woodruff key fitted to the camshaft; if the key is loose, remove it for safekeeping. 12 Check the condition of the sprocket, inspecting carefully for any wear grooves, pitting or scoring around the teeth. 13 Install the Woodruff key, then fit the camshaft sprocket with a new retaining bolt. The threads of the bolt should be smeared with thread-locking compound prior to fitting. Tighten the retaining bolt to the specified torque wrench setting (see illustrations). 14 Check that the engine is still positioned at TDC for No 1 piston on compression, with both the camshaft and crankshaft sprocket timing marks correctly aligned as described in Section 3. 15 Slip the timing belt over the camshaft sprocket, then move the tensioner towards the front of the car to apply an initial tension to the belt. Secure the tensioner in this position. 16 Adjust the timing belt tension as described in Section 8, paragraphs 12 to 14. 17 Refit the timing belt upper cover on completion.

Crankshaft sprocket

18 Remove the timing belt as described in Section 8. 19 The crankshaft sprocket can now be withdrawn. If it is a tight fit on the crankshaft, a puller or two large screwdrivers can be used to release its grip. Withdraw the thrustwasher and the Woodruff key from the crankshaft. 20 Check the condition of the sprocket,

2B•6 CVH and PTE engine in-car repair procedures

9.13b . . . and tighten the retaining bolt to the specified torque whilst retaining the

sprocket as shown

9.13a Refit the camshaft sprocket . . .

8.13 Checking the tension of the timing belt

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Page 45

inspecting carefully for any wear grooves, pitting or scoring around the teeth. 21 Refit the thrustwasher with its curved side facing outwards, followed by the Woodruff key. 22 Lubricate the oil seal and the crankshaft sprocket with engine oil, then position the sprocket on the crankshaft with its thrust face facing outwards. 23 Using the auxiliary drivebelt pulley and its retaining bolt, draw the sprocket fully into position on the crankshaft. Remove the pulley. 24 Refit the timing belt as described in Section 8.

10 Camshaft oil seal - renewal

1 Remove the camshaft sprocket as described in the previous Section. 2 The oil seal is now accessible for removal. Note its direction of fitting, then using a suitable screwdriver or a tool with a hooked end to lever and extract the seal from its housing (but take care not to damage the housing with the tool) (see illustration). 3 Check that the housing is clean before fitting the new seal. Lubricate the lips of the seal and the running faces of the camshaft with clean engine oil. Carefully locate the seal over the camshaft, and drive it squarely into position using a suitable tube or a socket (see illustration). An alternative method of fitting is

to draw it squarely into position using the old sprocket bolt and a suitable distance piece. 4 With the seal fully inserted in its housing, refit the camshaft sprocket as described in the previous Section.

11 Camshaft, rocker arms and

tappets - removal, inspection

and refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1). 2 Refer to the appropriate earlier Sections in this Chapter, and remove the timing belt upper cover and the rocker cover. 3 On carburettor models, refer to Chapter 4A and remove the fuel pump. On models

equipped with a distributor ignition system, refer to Chapter 5B and remove the distributor. On PTE engines, refer to Chapter 4D and remove the camshaft position sensor. 4 On models equipped with distributorless ignition system, detach, unbolt and remove the ignition coil, its support bracket and the interference capacitor from the end of the cylinder head, as described in Chapter 5B. 5 Undo the retaining nuts and remove the guides, rocker arms and spacer plates (see illustrations). Keep the respective components in their original order of fitting by marking them with a piece of numbered tape, or by using a suitable sub-divided box. 6 Withdraw the hydraulic tappets, again keeping them in their original fitted sequence. The tappets should be placed in an oil bath while removed (see illustrations). 7 Unbolt and remove the lower cover beneath

CVH and PTE engine in-car repair procedures 2B•7

11.5a Undo the rocker arm retaining nut . . .

10.3 Using a socket to tap the camshaft oil seal into place

11.6b Store tappets in clearly-marked

container filled with oil to prevent oil loss

11.6a Removing a hydraulic tappet

11.5c . . . followed by the rocker arm . . .11.5b . . . withdraw the guide . . .

11.5d . . . and spacer plate

10.2 Camshaft front oil seal removal

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Page 46

the crankshaft pulley, then with a spanner engaged on the crankshaft pulley bolt, turn the crankshaft over to set the engine at TDC for No 1 piston on compression (see Section 3). 8 Remove the camshaft sprocket as described in Section 9. 9 Extract the camshaft oil seal as described in Section 10. 10 Before removing the camshaft and its thrust plate, check and take note of the amount of camshaft endfloat, using a dial gauge or feeler gauges. With the camshaft endfloat measured and noted, unscrew the two retaining bolts and then extract the camshaft thrust plate from its pocket at the front end of the cylinder head (see

illustrations). 11 On models with a distributorless ignition

system, at the rear end of the cylinder head, pierce the camshaft blanking plug with a suitable tool, and then lever it out of its aperture (see illustrations). 12 Withdraw the camshaft from the cylinder head at the rear (distributor/ignition coil) end (see illustration). Take care not to damage the bearings in the cylinder head as the shaft is withdrawn.

Inspection

13 Clean and inspect the various components removed for signs of excessive wear. 14 Examine the camshaft bearing journals and lobes for damage or wear. If evident, a new camshaft will be required. 15 Compare the previously-measured camshaft endfloat with that specified. If the

endfloat is outside of the specified tolerance, the thrust plate must be renewed. 16 The camshaft bearing bore diameters in the cylinder head should be measured and checked against the tolerances specified. A suitable measuring gauge will be required for this, but if this is not available, check for excessive movement between the camshaft journals and the bearings. If the bearings are found to be unacceptably worn, a new cylinder head is the only answer, as the bearings are machined directly into the head. 17 It is seldom that the hydraulic tappets are badly worn in the cylinder head bores but again, if the bores are found to be worn beyond an acceptable level, the cylinder head must be renewed. 18 If the contact surfaces of the cam lobes show signs of depression or grooving, they cannot be renovated by grinding, as the hardened surface will be removed and the overall length of the tappet(s) will be reduced. The self-adjustment point of the tappet will be exceeded as a result, so that the valve adjustment will be affected, resulting in noisy operation. Therefore, renewal of the camshaft is the only remedy in this case. 19 Inspect the rocker arm contact surfaces for excessive wear, and renew if necessary (see illustration).

Refitting

20 Refitting the camshaft and its associated components is a reversal of the removal procedure, but note the following special points. 21 Lubricate the camshaft bearings, the camshaft and the thrust plate with clean engine oil prior to fitting them. As the camshaft is inserted, take care not to damage the bearings in the cylinder head. Tighten the camshaft thrust plate retaining bolts to the specified torque. When the thrust plate bolts are tightened, make a final check to ensure that the camshaft endfloat is as specified. 22 A new front oil seal must be fitted after the camshaft has been installed (see previous Section for details). It will also be necessary to insert a new blanking plug into the rear end of the cylinder head (where applicable). Drive it squarely into position so that it is flush with the head (see illustration).

2B•8 CVH and PTE engine in-car repair procedures

11.22 Driving a new blanking plug into position

11.19 Inspect the rocker arm contact points indicated for excessive wear

11.12 Withdraw the camshaft from the cylinder head

11.11b . . . and lever it out of the cylinder head

11.11a Pierce the centre of the blanking plug . . .

11.10b . . . and lift out the camshaft thrust plate

11.10a Undo the two retaining bolts (arrowed) . . .

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Page 47

23 Refer to the procedure in Section 9 when refitting the camshaft sprocket. 24 Refit and tension the timing belt as described in Section 8. 25 Lubricate the hydraulic tappets with hypoid oil before refitting them into their original locations in the cylinder head. 26 Lubricate and refit the rocker arms and guides in their original sequence, use new nuts and tighten them to the specified torque setting. It is essential, before each rocker arm is installed and its nut tightened, that the respective cam follower is positioned at its lowest point (in contact with the cam base circle). Turn the cam (using the crankshaft pulley bolt) as necessary to achieve this. 27 Refit the rocker cover as described in Section 4. 28 Refit the remaining components with reference to the relevant Sections in this Chapter or elsewhere in the manual. 29 On completion, reconnect the battery negative lead.

12 Cylinder head -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 On fuel-injected engines, depressurise the fuel system as described in Chapter 4B or 4C. 2 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1). 3 Refer to Chapter 1 and drain the cooling system.

4 Remove the rocker cover as described in Section 4. 5 Disconnect the accelerator and choke cables as applicable (refer to the relevant Part of Chapter 4). 6 Loosen off the retaining clips and disconnect the upper coolant hose, the expansion tank hose and the heater hose from the thermostat housing. Also disconnect the heater hose from the inlet manifold.

7 On CFi models, disconnect the heated coolant hose from the injector unit. 8 On EFi and SEFi models, disconnect the following (see illustration):

a) The MAP sensor vacuum hose from the

inlet manifold upper section (EFi models).

b) The carbon canister solenoid valve

vacuum hose from the inlet manifold upper section.

c) The oil trap vacuum hose at the “T” piece

connector.

d) The brake servo vacuum hose from the

inlet manifold upper section by pressing in the clamp ring and simultaneously pulling the hose free from the connection.

e) The coolant hose from the injector

intermediate flange and at the thermostat housing.

9 Disconnect the following fuel supply/return hoses. Plug the hoses and connections, to prevent fuel spillage and the possible ingress of dirt.

a) On carburettor models, disconnect the

fuel supply hose from the pump and the return hose from the carburettor.

b) On CFi models, pull free and detach the

fuel return hose from the injection unit and the supply hose at the connector.

c) On EFi and SEFi models, detach the fuel

supply hose from the fuel rail or at the quick-release coupling (where fitted). Disconnect the return line from the fuel pressure regulator or at the quick-release coupling.

10 On CFi models, disconnect the brake servo vacuum hose from the inlet manifold, the MAP sensor vacuum hose from the sensor, and the carbon canister connecting hose at the injection unit (see illustration). 11 Noting their connections and routings, disconnect the wiring connectors or multiplugs from the following items, where applicable:

a) Temperature gauge sender unit. b) DIS ignition coil. c) Coolant temperature sensor. d) Cooling fan thermostatic switch. e) Carburettor. f) Radio earth lead. g) Road speed sensor. h) Fuel injector wiring loom. i) Intake air temperature sensor.

12 On CFi models, detach the throttle control motor, throttle position sensor and injector lead multi-plugs (see illustration). 13 On models with a distributorless ignition system, where still attached, disconnect the HT leads from the DIS ignition coil and the spark plugs. On models with a distributor ignition system, remove the distributor as described in Chapter 5B. 14 Position the engine with No 1 piston at TDC on compression as described in Section 3. 15 Loosen off the timing belt tensioner retaining bolts, and move the tensioner to release the tension from the drivebelt. Support the belt, and move it clear of the camshaft sprocket. 16 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the front of the car and support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). 17 Unscrew the retaining nuts and detach the exhaust downpipe from the manifold. Remove the gasket; note that a new one must

CVH and PTE engine in-car repair procedures 2B•9

12.12 Wiring connections to be detached on the 1.4 litre CFi fuel injected engine

A Coolant temperature sensor B Throttle plate control motor C Throttle position sensor D Injector

12.10 Vacuum hose to the MAP sensor (A) and the brake servo unit (B) on the 1.4 litre

CFi fuel-injected engine

12.8 Vacuum hoses and throttle cable connections on the 1.6 litre EFi fuel

injected engine

A Hose to MAP sensor B Crankcase ventilation breather hose C Throttle cable and clip D Oil trap hose and T-piece connector E Hose to oil trap F Hose to carbon canister solenoid valve

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Whenever you disconnect any vacuum lines, coolant or emissions hoses, wiring

Page 48

be fitted on reassembly. Tie the downpipe up to support it. 18 Before it is released and removed, the cylinder head must first have cooled down to room temperature (about 20ºC). 19 Unscrew the cylinder head retaining bolts progressively in the reverse order to that shown for tightening (see illustration 12.28). The cylinder head bolts must be discarded and new bolts obtained for refitting the cylinder head. 20 Remove the cylinder head complete with its manifolds. If necessary, grip the manifolds and rock it free from the location dowels on the top face of the cylinder block. Do not attempt to tap it sideways or lever between the head and the block top face. 21 Remove the cylinder head gasket. This must always be renewed; it is essential that the correct type is obtained. Save the old gasket, so that the identification marks (teeth) can be used when ordering the new one (see illustration).

Preparation for refitting

22 The mating faces of the cylinder head and cylinder block must be perfectly clean before refitting the head. Use a hard plastic or wood scraper to remove all traces of gasket and carbon; also clean the piston crowns. Take particular care during the cleaning operations, as aluminium alloy is easily damaged. Also, make sure that the carbon is not allowed to enter the oil and water passages - this is particularly important for the lubrication system, as carbon could block the oil supply to the engine’s components. Using adhesive tape and paper, seal the water, oil and bolt holes in the cylinder block.

23 Check the mating surfaces of the cylinder block and the cylinder head for nicks, deep scratches and other damage. If slight, they

may be removed carefully with a file, but if excessive, machining may be the only alternative to renewal. 24 If warpage of the cylinder head gasket surface is suspected, use a straight-edge to check it for distortion. Refer to Part D of this Chapter if necessary. 25 Ensure that new cylinder head bolts are used when refitting and clean out the bolt holes in the block. Screwing a bolt into an oilfilled hole can (in extreme cases) cause the block to fracture, due to the hydraulic pressure.

Refitting

26 To prevent the possibility of the valves and pistons coming into contact as the head is fitted, turn the crankshaft over to position No 1 piston approximately 20 mm below its TDC position in the bore. 27 Locate the cylinder head gasket on the top face of the cylinder block, locating it over the dowels. Ensure that the gasket is fitted the correct way up, as indicated by its “OBENTOP” marking (see illustration). 28 Lower the cylinder head into position, ensuring that it fits over the locating dowels, then insert the new retaining bolts. Handtighten the bolts initially, then tighten them in the order shown in the four stages to the specified torque setting (see illustration). Where possible, use an angular torque setting gauge attachment tool for accurate tightening of stages three and four. Alternatively, after the first two stages, mark the bolt heads with a dab of quick drying paint, so that the paint spots all face the same direction. Now tighten all the bolts in the sequence to the Stage 3 setting, by tightening them through the specified angle. Finally, angle-tighten all the bolts through the Stage 4 angle. 29 The camshaft sprocket should be positioned so that its TDC index mark pointer is in alignment with the TDC index spot mark on the front end face of the cylinder head (see

illustration 3.6b). 30 Now turn the crankshaft pulley to bring its

TDC notch in alignment with the TDC (0) indicator on the front face of the timing belt cover, taking the shortest route (not vice-

versa) (see illustration 3.6a).

31 Refit the timing belt over the camshaft

sprocket, and then tension the belt as described in Section 8. 32 The remainder of the refitting procedure is a reversal of the removal process. Tighten all fastenings to their specified torque setting (where given). Refer to the appropriate Parts of Chapter 4 for details on reconnecting the fuel and exhaust system components, and to Chapter 5B for details on reconnecting the ignition system components. Ensure that all coolant, fuel, vacuum and electrical connections are securely made. 33 On completion, refill the cooling system and top-up the engine oil (see Chapter 1 and “Weekly Checks”). When the engine is restarted, check for any sign of fuel, oil and/or coolant leakages from the various cylinder head joints.

13 Sump -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1). 2 Drain the engine oil as described in Chapter

1. 3 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the front of the car and support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove the auxiliary drivebelt lower cover from inside the right-hand wheel arch. 4 Where fitted, pull free the oxygen sensor lead multi-plug, and disconnect it. If the engine has been recently run, take particular care against burning when working in the area of the catalytic converter. 5 Undo the retaining nuts, and detach the exhaust downpipe from the manifold. The flange gasket must be renewed when reconnecting. Where applicable, also detach the downpipe at the rear of the catalytic converter, and release it from the front mounting. 6 On XR2i models, remove the front suspension crossmember as described in Chapter 10. On all models, undo the nut and

2B•10 CVH and PTE engine in-car repair procedures

12.28 Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence

12.27 Fit the cylinder head gasket with the “OBEN/TOP” marking upwards . . .

12.21 Cylinder head location dowels (A) and gasket identification teeth (B)

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

To prevent carbon entering the gap between the pistons and bores, smear a little

grease in the gap. After cleaning each piston, use a small brush to remove all traces of grease and carbon from the gap, then wipe away the remainder with a clean rag.

Page 49

bolt(s) securing the gearchange mechanism stabiliser bar/exhaust forward mounting bracket (where fitted) and ease it out of the way. 7 Remove the starter motor as described in Chapter 5A, then undo the retaining bolts, and remove the clutch cover plate from the front face of the bellhousing (see illustration). 8 Progressively unscrew the sump retaining bolts and remove them. Support and lower the sump pan, taking care not to spill any oil remaining in it as it is removed. If the sump is stuck to the base of the crankcase, prise it free using a screwdriver, but take care not to damage the sump flange face. If it is really stuck in position, check first that all of the bolts are removed, then cut around the sump gasket with a sharp knife to help in freeing the joint. 9 After the sump is removed, further oil will almost certainly continue to drip down from within the crankcase, some old newspapers positioned underneath will soak up the spillage whilst the sump is removed. 10 Clean the sump of old oil and sludge, using paraffin or a suitable engine cleaner solution. Clean any traces of old gasket and sealer from the mating faces of the sump and the crankcase.

Refitting

11 Smear a suitable sealing compound onto the junctions of the crankcase-to-oil seal

carrier at the rear and the crankcase-to-oil pump housing at the front on each side (see

illustration). 12 Insert a new rubber seal in the groove in

the rear oil seal carrier and the oil pump case. As an aid to correct sump alignment when refitting it, screw ten M6 studs into the cylinder block, in the positions circled in illustration 13.14. 13 Fit a new gasket over the studs. Fit the sump into position, ensuring that the raised spacers sit in the gasket. Insert the bolts into the available holes, and finger-tighten them only at this stage. Now remove the studs and fit the remaining bolts, again finger-tight. 14 Tighten the sump bolts in a progressive, numerical sequence to the specified torque wrench setting (see illustration). 15 Fit the sump drain plug with a new sealing washer, and tighten it to the specified torque wrench setting. 16 Refit the clutch cover plate, the auxiliary drivebelt lower cover, the front suspension crossmember, the gearchange mechanism stabiliser bar/exhaust forward mounting bracket, and the starter motor with reference to the relevant Sections and Chapters of this manual as applicable. 17 Reconnect the exhaust downpipe as described in Chapter 4E. 18 On completion, lower the vehicle, and fill the engine with oil as described in Chapter 1. Reconnect the battery negative lead.

14 Oil pump -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1). 2 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt (see Chapter 1). 3 Remove the crankshaft pulley (Section 6), the timing belt covers (Section 7), the timing belt, crankshaft sprocket and thrustwasher (Sections 8 and 9), and the sump (Section 13). 4 Unscrew the retaining nut/bolts and remove the oil pick-up pipe (see illustration). 5 Unbolt and withdraw the oil pump from the front face of the engine. Clean the oil pump for inspection. Refer to Section 15 for the inspection procedures. The oil seal in the oil pump housing should always be renewed (Section 16).

Refitting

6 Before refitting the oil pump and the associated fittings, clean off the respective mating faces. A new oil pump gasket must be obtained, as well as the seals and gaskets for the other associated components to be refitted. 7 When refitting the oil pump, precautionary measures must be taken to avoid the possibility of damaging the new oil seal as it is engaged over the shoulder and onto its journal on the crankshaft. Extract the Woodruff key from the groove in the crankshaft, then cut a thin plastic guide which will furl over and protrude beyond the shoulder of the seal journal on the crankshaft (see illus- tration 14.9b). This will allow the seal to ride over the step, and avoid damaging the seal lip as it is pushed into position on the crankshaft. 8 If a new oil pump is being fitted or the old pump is to be re-used after cleaning and inspection, first prime the pump by squirting clean engine oil into it, and simultaneously rotating the drivegear a few times (see illustration).

CVH and PTE engine in-car repair procedures 2B•11

13.14 Sump bolt tightening sequence

A Crankshaft pulley end of engine Circled numbers indicate locations of studs for correct sump alignment (see text)

13.11 Sealing compound application points prior to refitting the sump

A Crankcase-to-oil pump housing B Crankcase-to-rear oil seal carrier

13.7 Removing the clutch cover plate

14.8 Prime the oil pump prior to fitting14.4 Removing the oil inlet pipe

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Page 50

9 Align the pump gear flats with those on the crankshaft, then fit the oil pump. Check that the sump mating faces of the oil pump and the base of the crankcase are flush each side, then tighten the retaining bolts to the specified torque setting. Remove the protective guide (see illustrations). 10 Refit the oil pick-up tube to the oil pump, using a new gasket and tighten to the specified torque. 11 Slide the thrustwasher onto the front end of the crankshaft, then insert the Woodruff key into position in the groove in the crankshaft. The key must be located with its flat edge parallel with the line of the crankshaft, to ensure that the crankshaft sprocket slides fully into position as it is being refitted. 12 Refit the sump, crankshaft sprocket, the timing belt, timing belt cover and drivebelt pulley (as described in the appropriate earlier Sections of this Chapter). Refit and adjust the drivebelt as described in Chapter 1. 13 On completion, lower the vehicle and reconnect the battery negative terminal.

15 Oil pump - dismantling,

inspection and reassembly

Dismantling

1 The oil pump fitted is a low-friction rotortype, driven from the front end of the crankshaft. Where a high-mileage engine is

being reconditioned, it is recommended that a new oil pump is fitted. 2 To inspect the rotor assembly, first remove the pump from the engine (Section 14), then undo the retaining screws and remove the cover plate (see illustration). Remove the Oring seal.

Inspection

3 Clean the rotors and the inside of the pump housing, then visually inspect the various components for signs of excessive wear and scoring. Check the pump components for wear using feeler gauges in the same manner as that described in Part A of this Chapter, Section 13. Refer to the Specifications at the start of this Chapter for specific details.

Reassembly

4 When reassembling the pump, ensure that the inner (driving) and outer (driven) rotors are located with the corresponding indented matchmarks facing the same way (see

illustration).

16 Crankshaft oil seals -

renewal

Front oil seal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1). 2 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the

front of the car and support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). 3 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt as described in Chapter 1. 4 Remove the crankshaft pulley (Section 6), the timing belt covers (Section 7), the timing belt (Section 8) and crankshaft sprocket, Woodruff key and thrustwasher (Section 9). 5 The oil seal is now accessible for removal from the front face of the oil pump housing (see illustration). To withdraw the seal, a hooked tool will be required; if available, use Ford special tool No 21-096. Take care not to damage the oil pump housing during removal. As it is removed, note the fitted orientation of the seal in its housing. 6 Clean the oil pump housing and the crankshaft stub, then lubricate the lips of the new seal and the crankshaft front stub with clean engine oil. 7 The oil seal should be drawn into position using the Ford special tool No 21-093A. Failing this, use a tube of suitable diameter, with the crankshaft pulley bolt and washers. Do not hammer the seal into position. To protect the seal lips as it is fitted onto the crankshaft, cut a thin sheet of plastic to suit and furl it round the front of the crankshaft, over the journal shoulder. 8 When the seal is fully fitted, remove the special tool (or fabricated tool) and withdraw the plastic protector. Check that the crankshaft is still at the TDC position and refit the Woodruff key, thrustwasher and sprocket. Refit and tension the timing belt, then refit the timing belt cover and crankshaft pulley as described in the appropriate Sections earlier in this Chapter. 9 Refit and adjust the auxiliary drivebelt as described in Chapter 1. 10 On completion, lower the vehicle and reconnect the battery.

Rear oil seal

11 With the engine or transmission removed from the vehicle for access, remove the clutch as described in Chapter 6. 12 Remove the flywheel/driveplate as described in Section 18. 13 If available, use Ford tool No 21-151 or a suitable clawed tool to extract the seal from

2B•12 CVH and PTE engine in-car repair procedures

16.5 Crankshaft front oil seal - seen from below (arrowed)

15.4 Inner and outer rotor matchmarks (arrowed)

15.2 Oil pump cover plate retaining screws (arrowed)

14.9b With the oil pump refitted, remove the protective guide (arrowed)

14.9a Refit the oil pump

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Page 51

its housing. If the seal housing is removed from the rear face of the engine, the seal can be removed as described in paragraph 18. As it is removed, note the direction of fitting, and take care not to damage the seal housing as the seal is extracted. 14 Clean the seal housing, the crankshaft rear flange face, and the flywheel/driveplate mating surfaces. 15 One of two possible methods may be used to insert the new oil seal, depending on the tools available. 16 If Ford special service tool No 21-095 is available, lubricate the seal lips of the seal and its running face on the crankshaft with clean engine oil. Position the seal (correctly orientated) into the special tool, then draw the seal into the housing using two flywheel/driveplate securing bolts so that the seal is against the stop. 17 If the correct Ford service tool is not available, it will be necessary to remove the oil seal carrier housing. To do this, first remove the sump as described in Section 13, then unscrew the seal housing retaining bolts and remove the housing from the rear face of the crankcase. 18 Drive the old seal from the housing by carefully tapping it from its aperture using a suitable punch as shown (see illustration). As it is removed, note the direction of fitting, and take care not to damage the seal housing as the seal is extracted. 19 New gaskets will be required for the seal housing and sump during reassembly. Clean the mating faces of the seal housing, the crankcase and sump. Insert the new seal squarely into its housing. To avoid damaging the seal or the housing, place a flat piece of wood across the face of the seal, and carefully tap or draw the seal into place. Do not allow the seal to tilt in the housing as it is being fitted. 20 Lubricate the running surface on the crankshaft and the oil seal lip with clean engine oil. Locate a new gasket onto the rear face of the crankcase, and refit the oil seal housing and seal. To avoid damaging the lips of the seal as it is passed over the end of the crankshaft, cut a thin sheet of plastic to suit and furl it round the rear flange of the

crankshaft so that it protrudes, and press the seal over it. With the seal in position, withdraw the plastic protector. Centralise the seal on the shaft, check that the housing-to-sump flange faces are flush to the sump face on the base of the crankcase, then insert and tighten the housing retaining bolts to the specified torque. 21 Refit the sump with reference to Section 13. 22 Refit the flywheel/driveplate as described in Section 18.

23 Refit the clutch as described in Chapter 6. 24 Refit the engine or transmission, as

applicable.

17 Engine/transmission

mountings - renewal

1 The removal and refitting method for the transmission bearer and mountings is as described for HCS engines in Part A, Section 15. On XR2i models, it will be necessary to remove the front suspension crossmember first (refer to Chapter 10).

2 The engine right-hand mounting is significantly different to that fitted to HCS engines, in that it is a two-piece bracket, and its removal and refitting procedure is detailed below. 3 First of all support the engine/transmission assembly as described in Part A, Section 15, then unscrew and remove the two nuts securing the two halves of the mounting bracket assembly. 4 Unscrew and remove the three bolts securing the engine bracket section to the cylinder block (see illustration). 5 Unscrew and remove the mounting retaining nut and washer from their location near the suspension strut. 6 Unscrew and remove the mounting side bolt from under the right-hand wheel arch. 7 Refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure. Make sure when refitting engine/transmission mountings, that any washers and plates removed during the dismantling process are refitted in their original sequence. Do not fully tighten any mounting bolts until they are all located. As the mounting bolts and nuts are tightened, check that the mounting rubbers do not twist.

CVH and PTE engine in-car repair procedures 2B•13

17.4 Exploded view of the right-hand engine mounting16.18 Rear oil seal removal

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Page 52

18 Flywheel/driveplate -

removal, inspection and refitting

Removal

1 Access to the flywheel (manual transmission) or driveplate (automatic transmission) is gained by first removing the transmission (Chapter 7A or B). On manual transmission models, remove the clutch (Chapter 6). 2 Unscrew and remove the six flywheel/driveplate retaining bolts, and carefully withdraw the flywheel/driveplate

from the rear face of the crankshaft. Take care not to drop the flywheel, as it is heavy. Note that the retaining bolts must be renewed when refitting.

Inspection

3 The inspection procedures for the flywheel/driveplate are the same as those described for the HCS engine in Part A of this Chapter, but note that the grinding procedures do not apply to automatic transmission models (the driveplate cannot be reground).

Refitting

4 Check that the mating faces of the

flywheel/driveplate and crankshaft are clean before refitting. 5 Smear the new retaining bolt threads with thread-locking compound. Fit the flywheel/driveplate into position on the rear end face of the crankshaft. Check that all of the bolt holes in the flywheel/driveplate are in exact alignment with the corresponding bolt holes in the crankshaft, then insert the new bolts and tighten them in a progressive sequence to the specified torque wrench setting. 6 Refit the clutch (manual transmission models) as described in Chapter 6. 7 Refit the transmission (according to type) as described in Chapter 7A or B.

2B•14 CVH and PTE engine in-car repair procedures

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Page 53

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

General

Engine type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Four-cylinder, in-line, double overhead camshafts

Engine code:

1.6 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . L1G

1.8 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RDB or RQC

Capacity:

1.6 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1597 cc

1.8 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1796 cc

Bore:

1.6 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76.0 mm

1.8 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.6 mm

Stroke - all models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88.0 mm

Compression ratio:

1.6 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.3:1

1.8 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.0:1

Firing order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-3-4-2 (No 1 cylinder at timing belt end)

Direction of crankshaft rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clockwise (seen from right-hand side of vehicle)

Cylinder head

Hydraulic tappet bore inside diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28.395 to 28.425 mm

Camshafts and hydraulic tappets

Camshaft bearing journal diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25.960 to 25.980 mm

Camshaft bearing journal-to-cylinder head running clearance . . . . . . . 0.020 to 0.070 mm

Camshaft endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.080 to 0.220 mm

Lubrication

Engine oil type/specification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See “Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressures”

Engine oil capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See “Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressures”

Oil pressure:

Idling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.3 to 2.5 bar

At 4000 rpm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.7 to 5.5 bars

Oil pump clearances . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Not specified

Chapter 2 Part C:

Zetec engine in-car repair procedures

Auxiliary drivebelt check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1

Camshaft oil seals - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Camshafts and hydraulic tappets - removal, inspection

and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Compression test - description and interpretation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Crankshaft oil seals - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

Crankshaft pulley - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Cylinder head - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

Cylinder head cover - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Engine oil and filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1

Engine oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .“Weekly Checks”

Engine/transmission mountings - inspection and renewal . . . . . . . . 16

Flywheel/driveplate - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . 17

General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Oil pump - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

Sump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Timing belt - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Timing belt covers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Timing belt tensioner and sprockets - removal, inspection

and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

Top Dead Centre (TDC) for No 1 piston - locating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Valve clearances - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

2C•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable for

novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Page 54

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Cylinder head cover bolts:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 1.5

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 5

Camshaft sprocket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 50

Camshaft bearing cap bolts:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 14

Cylinder head bolts:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 18

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 105º

Timing belt cover fasteners:

Upper-to-middle (outer) cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 3

Cover-to-cylinder head or block bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 5

Cover studs-to-cylinder head or block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7

Timing belt tensioner bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 28

Timing belt tensioner backplate locating peg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7

Timing belt tensioner spring retaining pin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7

Timing belt guide pulley bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 28

Water pump pulley bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7

Auxiliary drivebelt idler pulley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 35

Front engine lifting eye bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 12

Exhaust manifold heat shield bolts:

Shield-to-cylinder head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 5

Shield/dipstick tube . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7

Shield/coolant pipe-to-manifold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 17

Crankshaft pulley bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115 85

Oil pump-to-cylinder block bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Oil pick-up pipe-to-pump screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Oil baffle/pump pick-up pipe nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 14

Oil filter adapter-to-pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16

Oil pressure warning light switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 20

Sump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

Coolant pipe-to-sump bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7

Flywheel/driveplate bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 81

Crankshaft left-hand oil seal carrier bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16

Engine mountings:

Engine front right-hand mounting:

Alternator mounting bracket-to-cylinder block bolts . . . . . . . . . . . 41 to 58 30 to 43

Mounting bracket-to-alternator mounting bracket bolts . . . . . . . . Not available Not available

Mounting through-bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Not available Not available

Outer bracket-to-mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 to 79 43 to 58

Inner bracket-to-body bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 to 79 43 to 58

Outer bracket-to-body bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 to 79 43 to 58

Engine rear right-hand mounting: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Bracket-to-cylinder block bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76 to 104 56 to 77

Mounting-to-(cylinder block) bracket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 to 98 52 to 72

Mounting-to-body bolt and nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 to 138 75 to 102

Transmission mounting fasteners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Refer to Chapter 7A or 7B

Note: Refer to Part D of this Chapter for remaining torque wrench settings.

2C•2 Zetec engine in-car repair procedures

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

1 General information

How to use this Chapter

these procedures are based on the assumption that the engine is installed in the vehicle, if the engine has been removed from the vehicle and mounted on a stand, some of the preliminary dismantling steps outlined will not apply.

Information concerning engine/transmission removal and refitting, and engine overhaul, can be found in Part D of this Chapter, which also includes the Specifications relevant to those procedures.

Engine description

The Zetec engine, (formerly Zeta), is of sixteen-valve, double overhead camshaft

(DOHC), four-cylinder, in-line type, mounted transversely at the front of the vehicle, with the transmission on its left-hand end.

Apart from the plastic timing belt covers and the cast-iron cylinder block/crankcase, all major engine castings are of aluminium alloy.

The crankshaft runs in five main bearings, the centre main bearing’s upper half incorporating thrustwashers to control crankshaft endfloat. The connecting rods rotate on horizontally-split bearing shells at their big-ends. The pistons are attached to the connecting rods by gudgeon pins which are an interference fit in the connecting rod smallend eyes. The aluminium alloy pistons are

Page 55

fitted with three piston rings: two compression rings and an oil control ring. After manufacture, the cylinder bores and piston skirts are measured and classified into three grades, which must be carefully matched together, to ensure the correct piston/cylinder clearance; no oversizes are available to permit reboring.

The inlet and exhaust valves are each closed by coil springs; they operate in guides which are shrink-fitted into the cylinder head, as are the valve seat inserts.

Both camshafts are driven by the same toothed timing belt, each operating eight valves via self-adjusting hydraulic tappets, thus eliminating the need for routine checking and adjustment of the valve clearances. Each camshaft rotates in five bearings that are linebored directly in the cylinder head and the (bolted-on) bearing caps; this means that the bearing caps are not available separately from the cylinder head, and must not be interchanged with caps from another engine.

The water pump is bolted to the right-hand end of the cylinder block, inboard of the timing belt, and is driven with the power steering pump and alternator by a flat “polyvee”-type auxiliary drivebelt from the crankshaft pulley.

When working on this engine, note that Torx-type (both male and female heads) and hexagon socket (Allen head) fasteners are widely used; a good selection of bits, with the necessary adapters, will be required, so that these can be unscrewed without damage and, on reassembly, tightened to the torque wrench settings specified.

Lubrication is by means of an eccentricrotor trochoidal pump, which is mounted on the crankshaft right-hand end, and draws oil through a strainer located in the sump. The pump forces oil through an externallymounted full-flow cartridge-type filter - on some versions of the engine, an oil cooler is fitted to the oil filter mounting, so that clean oil entering the engine’s galleries is cooled by the main engine cooling system.

Repair operations possible with the engine in the car

The following work can be carried out with the engine in the car:

a) Compression pressure - testing. b) Cylinder head cover - removal and

refitting. c) Timing belt covers - removal and refitting. d) Timing belt - renewal. e) Timing belt tensioner and sprockets -

removal and refitting. f) Camshaft oil seals - renewal. g) Camshafts and hydraulic tappets -

removal and refitting. h) Cylinder head - removal and refitting. i) Cylinder head and pistons -

decarbonising. j) Sump - removal and refitting. k) Crankshaft oil seals - renewal. l) Oil pump - removal and refitting.

m) Flywheel/driveplate - removal and

refitting.

n) Engine/transmission mountings - removal

and refitting. Note: It is possible to remove the pistons and connecting rods (after removing the cylinder head and sump) without removing the engine. However, this is not recommended. Work of this nature is more easily and thoroughly completed with the engine on the bench, as described in Chapter 2D.

2 Compression test -

description and interpretation

Refer to Section 2 in Part A of this Chapter.

3 Top Dead Centre (TDC) for

No 1 piston - locating

1 Top dead centre (TDC) is the highest point of the cylinder that each piston reaches as the crankshaft turns. Each piston reaches its TDC position at the end of its compression stroke, and then again at the end of its exhaust stroke. For the purpose of engine timing, TDC on the compression stroke for No 1 piston is used. No 1 cylinder is at the timing belt end of the engine. Proceed as follows. 2 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1). 3 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the front of the car and support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove the right-hand roadwheel. 4 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt cover (see Chapter 1) to expose the crankshaft pulley and timing marks. 5 Fit a spanner onto the crankshaft pulley bolt, and turn the crankshaft in its normal direction of rotation (clockwise, viewed from the pulley end).

6 Note the two pairs of notches in the inner and outer rims of the crankshaft pulley. In the normal direction of crankshaft rotation the first pair of notches are irrelevant to the vehicles covered in this manual, while the second pair indicate TDC when aligned with the rear edge of the raised mark on the sump. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the second pair of notches align with the edge of the sump mark; use a straight edge extended out from the sump if greater accuracy is required (see

illustrations). 7 Nos 1 and 4 cylinders are now at TDC, one

of them on the compression stroke. Remove the oil filler cap; if No 4 cylinder exhaust cam lobe is pointing to the rear of the vehicle and slightly downwards, it is No 1 cylinder that is correctly positioned. If the lobe is pointing horizontally forwards, rotate the crankshaft one full turn (360º) clockwise until the pulley notches align again, and the lobe is pointing to the rear and slightly down. No 1 cylinder will then be at TDC on the compression stroke. 8 Once No 1 cylinder has been positioned at TDC on the compression stroke, TDC for any of the other cylinders can then be located by rotating the crankshaft clockwise 180º at a time and following the firing order (see Specifications). 9 With the engine set at No 1 piston on TDC compression, refit the drivebelt cover and the roadwheel, then lower the vehicle and refit the spark plugs.

4 Cylinder head cover -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1). 2 Remove the air inlet components as necessary for access as described in the Chapter 4D. 3 Disconnect the accelerator cable from the throttle linkage as described in Chapter 4D. 4 On models equipped with power steering, release the high pressure fluid pipe from the

Zetec engine in-car repair procedures 2C•3

3.6b . . . use a straight edge extended out from the sump (arrowed) if greater

accuracy is required

3.6a Do not use crankshaft pulley’s first

pair of notches “A” - align second pair of

notches “B” with raised rib on sump “C” . . .

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Turning the engine will be easier if the spark plugs are removed first - see Chapter 1.

Page 56

clamp brackets and disconnect the pipe joint union over the top of the cylinder head cover. Place absorbent rags beneath the union as it is disconnected to soak up escaping fluid and plug the open unions to prevent dirt entry and further fluid loss. Move the pipe(s) clear just sufficiently to allow removal of the cylinder head cover. 5 Remove the timing belt upper cover (see Section 7). 6 Disconnect the crankcase breather hose from the cylinder head cover union (see

illustration). 7 Unplug the HT leads from the spark plugs

and withdraw them, unclipping the leads from the cover. 8 Working progressively, unscrew the cylinder head cover retaining bolts, noting the spacer sleeve and rubber seal at each, then withdraw the cover (see illustration). 9 Discard the cover gasket; this must be renewed whenever it is disturbed. Check that the sealing faces are undamaged, and that the rubber seal at each retaining bolt is serviceable; renew any worn or damaged seals.

Refitting

10 On refitting, clean the cover and cylinder head gasket faces carefully, then fit a new gasket to the cover, ensuring that it locates correctly in the cover grooves (see illustration). 11 Refit the cover to the cylinder head, then insert the rubber seal and spacer sleeve at each bolt location (see illustration). Start all

bolts finger-tight, ensuring that the gasket remains seated in its groove. 12 Working in a diagonal sequence from the centre outwards, and in two stages (see Specifications), tighten the cover bolts to the specified torque wrench setting. 13 Refit the HT leads, clipping them into place so that they are correctly routed; each is numbered, and can also be identified by the numbering on its respective coil terminal. 14 Reconnect the crankcase breather hose, and refit the timing belt upper cover. Reconnect and adjust the accelerator cable, then refit the air inlet components (see Chapter 4B). 15 On models with power steering, reconnect the high pressure fluid pipe then bleed the system as described in Chapter 10.

5 Valve clearances -

general information

Refer to Section 5 in Part B of this Chapter.

6 Crankshaft pulley -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt - either remove the drivebelt completely, or just

secure it clear of the crankshaft pulley, depending on the work to be carried out (see Chapter 1). 2 If necessary, rotate the crankshaft until the timing marks align (see Section 3). 3 The crankshaft must now be locked to prevent its rotation while the pulley bolt is unscrewed. To do this, remove the starter motor (Chapter 5A) and lock the starter ring gear teeth using a suitable screwdriver. 4 It should now just be possible to reach between the crankshaft pulley and the body side member to undo and remove the pulley bolt and withdraw the pulley. However, if additional working clearance is needed, proceed as follows. 5 If not already done, chock the rear wheels then jack up the front of the car and support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove the front right-hand roadwheel. 6 Support the weight of the engine/transmission using a trolley jack, with a wooden spacer to prevent damage to the sump. 7 From above, unscrew the three bolts securing the engine’s front right-hand (Yshaped) mounting bracket to the alternator mounting bracket. Unfasten the engine’s rear right-hand mounting from the body by unscrewing first the single nut (and washer) immediately to the rear of the timing belt cover, then the bolt in the wheel arch 8 With the engine’s right-hand mountings unfastened from the body, lower the engine/transmission on the jack until a socket spanner can be fitted to the crankshaft pulley bolt. 9 With the starter ring gear teeth locked, unscrew the crankshaft pulley bolt and withdraw the pulley (see illustration).

Refitting

10 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure; ensure that the pulley’s keyway is aligned with the crankshaft’s locating key, and tighten the pulley bolt to the specified torque wrench setting. If the engine mountings were disturbed, use the jack to adjust the height of the engine/transmission until the bolts (and nut, with washer) can be refitted and screwed

2C•4 Zetec engine in-car repair procedures

6.9 Unscrew pulley bolt to release crankshaft pulley

4.11 Ensure rubber seal is fitted to each cover bolt spacer, as shown

4.10 Ensure gasket is located correctly in cover groove

4.8 Removing cylinder head cover

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

4.6 Disconnecting crankcase breather hose from cylinder head cover union

Page 57

home by hand, then tighten them securely, to the specified torque wrench settings, where given. 11 Refit the auxiliary drivebelt as described in Chapter 1 on completion.

7 Timing belt covers -

removal and refitting

Upper cover

1 Unscrew the cover’s two mounting bolts and withdraw it (see illustration). 2 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure; ensure that the cover edges engage correctly with each other, and note the torque wrench setting specified for the bolts.

Middle cover

3 Slacken the water pump pulley bolts. 4 Remove the timing belt upper cover. 5 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt (see Chap-

ter 1).

6 Unbolt and remove the water pump pulley. 7 Unscrew the middle cover fasteners (one

bolt at the front, one at the lower rear, one stud at the top rear) and withdraw the cover. 8 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure. Ensure that the cover edges engage correctly with each other, and note the torque wrench settings specified for the various fasteners.

Lower cover

9 Slacken the water pump pulley bolts. 10 Remove the crankshaft pulley (see

Section 6) then unbolt and remove the water pump pulley. 11 Unscrew the three cover securing bolts, and withdraw it (see illustration). 12 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure; ensure the cover edges engage correctly with each other, and note the torque wrench settings specified for the various fasteners.

Inner shield

13 Remove the timing belt, its tensioner components and the camshaft sprockets (see Sections 8 and 9).

14 The shield is secured to the cylinder head by two bolts at the top, and by two studs lower down; unscrew these and withdraw the shield (see illustration). 15 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure; note the torque wrench settings specified for the various fasteners.

8 Timing belt - removal, refitting

and adjustment

Note: To carry out this operation, a new timing belt (where applicable), a new cylinder head cover gasket, and some special tools (see text)

will be required. If the timing belt is being removed for the first time since the vehicle left the factory, a tensioner spring and retaining pin must be obtained for fitting on reassembly.

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).

2 Slacken the water pump pulley bolts. 3 Remove the cylinder head cover (see

Section 4). 4 Remove the spark plugs, covering their holes with clean rag, to prevent dirt or other foreign bodies from dropping in (see Chapter 1). 5 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt (see Chapter 1). 6 Position the engine with No 1 piston at TDC on compression as described in Section 3. 7 Unbolt and remove the water pump pulley and, where fitted, the auxiliary drivebelt idler pulley. 8 Obtain Ford service tool 21-162, or fabricate a substitute alternative from a strip of metal 5 mm thick (while the strip’s thickness is critical, its length and width are not, but should be approximately 180 to 230 mm by 20 to 30 mm). Check that Nos 1 and 4 cylinders are at TDC - No 1 on the compression stroke - by resting this tool on the cylinder head mating surface, and sliding

Zetec engine in-car repair procedures 2C•5

7.11 Removing timing belt lower cover bolt locations arrowed

7.14 Timing belt inner shield fasteners (arrowed)

7.1 Timing belt and cover details

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

1 Timing belt upper

cover

2 Inlet camshaft

toothed pulley

3 Exhaust camshaft

toothed pulley 4 Timing belt 5 Timing belt

tensioner 6 Crankshaft toothed

pulley 7 Timing belt middle

cover 8 Timing belt lower

cover 9 Crankshaft pulley 10 Water pump pulley

Page 58

it into the slot in the left-hand end of both camshafts (see illustration). The tool should slip snugly into both slots while resting on the cylinder head mating surface; if one camshaft is only slightly out of alignment, it is permissible to use an open-ended spanner to rotate the camshaft gently and carefully until the tool will fit. 9 If both camshaft slots (they are machined significantly off-centre) are below the level of the cylinder head mating surface, rotate the crankshaft through one full turn clockwise and fit the tool again; it should now fit as described in the previous paragraph. 10 With the camshaft aligning tool remaining in place, remove the crankshaft pulley. Do not use the locked camshafts to prevent the crankshaft from rotating - use only the locking method described in Section 6. 11 Remove the timing belt lower and middle covers (see Section 7). 12 With the camshaft-aligning tool still in place, slacken the tensioner bolt, and use an Allen key inserted into its centre to rotate the tensioner clockwise as far as possible away from the belt; retighten the bolt to secure the tensioner clear of the timing belt (see

illustration). 13 If the timing belt is to be re-used, use

white paint or similar to mark its direction of rotation, and note from the manufacturer’s markings which way round it is fitted. Withdraw the belt. Do not rotate the crankshaft until the timing belt is refitted.

14 If the belt is being removed for reasons other than routine renewal, check it carefully for any signs of uneven wear, splitting, cracks (especially at the roots of the belt teeth) or contamination with oil or coolant. Renew the belt if there is the slightest doubt about its condition. As a safety measure, the belt must be renewed as a matter of course at the intervals given in Chapter 1; if its history is unknown, the belt should be renewed irrespective of its apparent condition whenever the engine is overhauled. Similarly, check the tensioner spring (where fitted), renewing it if there is any doubt about its condition. Check also the sprockets for signs of wear or damage, and ensure that the tensioner and guide pulleys rotate smoothly on their bearings; renew any worn or damaged components. If signs of oil or coolant contamination are found, trace the source of the leak and rectify it, then wash down the engine timing belt area and related components, to remove all traces of oil or coolant.

Refitting and adjustment

15 On reassembly, temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley, to check that the crankshaft is still positioned at TDC for No 1 piston on compression, then ensure that both camshafts are aligned at TDC by the special tool (paragraph 8). If the engine is being reassembled after major dismantling, both camshaft sprockets should be free to rotate

on their respective camshafts; if the timing belt alone is being renewed, both sprockets should still be securely fastened. 16 A holding tool will be required to prevent the camshaft sprockets from rotating while their bolts are slackened and retightened; either obtain Ford service tool 15-030A, or fabricate a suitable substitute (see Tool Tip).

Note: Do not use the camshaft-aligning tool (whether genuine Ford or not) to prevent rotation while the camshaft sprocket bolts are slackened or tightened; the risk of damage to the camshaft concerned and to the cylinder head is far too great. Use only a forked holding tool applied directly to the sprockets, as described.

17 If it is being fitted for the first time, screw the timing belt tensioner spring retaining pin into the cylinder head, tightening it to the specified torque wrench setting. Unbolt the tensioner, hook the spring on to the pin and the tensioner backplate, then refit the tensioner, engaging its backplate on the locating peg (see illustrations).

18 In all cases, slacken the tensioner bolt (if necessary), and use an Allen key inserted into its centre to rotate the tensioner as far as possible against spring tension, then retighten the bolt to secure the tensioner (see illustration).

2C•6 Zetec engine in-car repair procedures

8.18 . . . then use Allen key to position tensioner so that timing belt can be

refitted

8.17b Hook spring onto tensioner and refit as shown - engage tensioner backplate on

locating peg (arrowed) . . .

8.17a Fitting tensioner spring retaining pin

8.12 Slacken tensioner bolt, and use Allen key to rotate tensioner away from timing

belt

8.8 Fit camshaft-aligning tool to ensure

engine is locked with Nos 1 and 4 cylinders

at TDC

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

To make a camshaft sprocket holding tool, obtain two lengths of steel strip

about 6 mm thick by 30 mm wide or similar, one 600 mm long, the other 200 mm long (all dimensions approximate). Bolt the two strips together to form a forked end, leaving the bolt slack so that the shorter strip can pivot freely. At the end of each “prong” of the fork, bend the strips through 90º about 50 mm from their ends to act as the fulcrums; these will engage with the holes in the sprockets. It may be necessary to grind or cut off their sides slightly to allow them to fit the sprocket holes (see illustration 8.23).

Page 59

19 Fit the timing belt; if the original is being refitted, ensure that the marks and notes made on removal are followed, so that the belt is refitted the same way round, and to run in the same direction. Starting at the crankshaft sprocket, work anti-clockwise around the camshaft sprockets and tensioner, finishing off at the rear guide pulley. The front run, between the crankshaft and the exhaust camshaft sprockets, must be kept taut, without altering the position either of the crankshaft or of the camshaft(s) - if necessary, the position of the camshaft sprockets can be altered by rotating each on its camshaft (which remains fixed by the aligning tool). Where the sprocket is still fastened, use the holding tool described above to prevent the sprocket from rotating while its retaining bolt is slackened - the sprocket can then be rotated on the camshaft until the belt will slip into place; retighten the sprocket bolt. 20 When the belt is in place, slacken the tensioner bolt gently until the spring pulls the tensioner against the belt; the tensioner should be retained correctly against the timing belt inner shield and cylinder head, but must be just free to respond to changes in belt tension (see illustration). 21 Tighten both camshaft sprocket bolts (or check that they are tight, as applicable) and remove the camshaft-aligning tool. Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley, and rotate the crankshaft through two full turns clockwise to settle and tension the timing belt, returning the crankshaft to the TDC position described previously. Refit the camshaftaligning tool; it should slip into place as described in paragraph 8. If all is well, proceed to paragraph 24 below. 22 If one camshaft is only just out of line, fit the forked holding tool to its sprocket, adjust its position as required, and check that any slack created has been taken up by the tensioner; rotate the crankshaft through two further turns clockwise, and refit the camshaft-aligning tool to check that it now fits as it should. If all is well, proceed to paragraph 24 below. 23 If either camshaft is significantly out of line, use the holding tool to prevent its sprocket from rotating while its retaining bolt

is slackened - the camshaft can then be rotated (gently and carefully, using an openended spanner) until the camshaft-aligning tool will slip into place; take care not to disturb the relationship of the sprocket to the timing belt. Without disturbing the sprocket’s new position on the camshaft, tighten the sprocket bolt to its specified torque wrench setting (see illustration). Remove the camshaft-aligning tool, rotate the crankshaft through two further turns clockwise, and refit the tool to check that it now fits as it should. 24 When the timing belt has been settled at its correct tension, and the camshaft-aligning tool fits correctly when the crankshaft pulley notches are exactly aligned, tighten the tensioner bolt to its specified torque wrench setting (see illustration). Fitting the forked holding tool to the spokes of each sprocket in turn, check that the sprocket bolts are tightened to their specified torque wrench setting. Remove the camshaft-aligning tool, rotate the crankshaft through two further turns clockwise, and refit the tool to make a final check that it fits as it should. 25 The remainder of the reassembly procedure is the reverse of removal, ensuring that all fasteners are tightened to the specified torque.

9 Timing belt tensioner and

sprockets - removal,

inspection and refitting

Tensioner

Note: If the tensioner is being removed for the first time since the vehicle left the factory, a tensioner spring and retaining pin must be obtained for fitting on reassembly.

1 While it is possible to reach the tensioner once the timing belt upper and middle covers only have been removed, the whole procedure outlined below must be followed, to ensure that the valve timing is correctly reset once the belt’s tension has been disturbed. 2 Release the tension from the timing belt as described in Section 8, paragraphs 1 to 12. 3 Unscrew the tensioner bolt and withdraw

the tensioner, unhooking the spring, if fitted (see illustration). Check the tensioner spring, and renew it if there is any doubt about its condition. 4 On reassembly, if it is being fitted for the first time, screw the timing belt tensioner spring retaining pin into the cylinder head, tightening it to the specified torque wrench setting. Hook the spring onto the pin and the tensioner backplate, then refit the tensioner, engaging its backplate on the locating peg. 5 Use an Allen key inserted into its centre to rotate the tensioner as far as possible against spring tension, then tighten the bolt to secure the tensioner. 6 Reassemble, checking the camshaft alignment (valve timing) and setting the timing belt tension, as described in paragraphs 20 to 25 of Section 8.

Camshaft and crankshaft sprockets

7 While it may be possible to remove any of these sprockets once the relevant belt covers have been removed, the complete timing belt removal/refitting procedure (see Section 8) must be followed, to ensure that the valve timing is correctly reset once the belt’s tension has been disturbed. 8 With the timing belt removed, the camshaft sprockets can be detached once their retaining bolts have been unscrewed as described in paragraph 16 of Section 8. The crankshaft sprocket can be pulled off the end of the crankshaft, once the crankshaft pulley

Zetec engine in-car repair procedures 2C•7

8.24 When setting is correct, tighten

tensioner bolt to specified torque wrench

setting

8.23 Using forked holding tool while

camshaft toothed pulley bolt is tightened

8.20 Slacken tensioner bolt to give initial belt tension

9.3 Removing timing belt tensioner

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Page 60

and the timing belt have been removed. Note the “FRONT” marking identifying the sprocket’s outboard face, and the thrustwasher behind it; note which way round the thrustwasher is fitted (see illustration). Note the sprocket-locating Woodruff key; if this is loose, it should be removed for safe storage with the sprocket. 9 Check the sprockets as described in paragraph 14 of Section 8. 10 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure.

Timing belt guide pulleys

11 Remove the timing belt covers (see Section 7). 12 Unbolt and withdraw the pulley(s); check their condition as described in paragraph 14 of Section 8. 13 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure; tighten the pulley bolts to the specified torque wrench setting.

10 Camshaft oil seals - renewal

Note: While it is possible to reach either oil seal, once the respective sprocket has been removed (see Section 9) to allow the seal to be prised out, this procedure is not recommended. Not only are the seals very soft, making this difficult to do without risk of

damage to the seal housing, but it would be very difficult to ensure that the valve timing and the timing belt’s tension, once disturbed, are correctly reset. Owners are advised to follow the whole procedure outlined below.

1 Release the tension from the timing belt as described in Section 8, paragraphs 1 to 12.

Note: If the timing belt is found to be contaminated by oil, remove it completely as described, then renew the oil seal (see below). Wash down the engine timing belt area and all related components, to remove all traces of oil. Fit a new belt on reassembly.

2 If the timing belt is still clean, slip it off the sprocket, taking care not to twist it too sharply; use the fingers only to handle the belt. Do not rotate the crankshaft until the timing belt is refitted. Cover the belt, and secure it so that it is clear of the working area and cannot slip off the remaining sprocket. 3 Unfasten the sprocket bolt and withdraw the sprocket (see Section 9). 4 Unbolt the camshaft right-hand bearing cap, and withdraw the defective oil seal. Clean the seal housing, and polish off any burrs or raised edges, which may have caused the seal to fail in the first place. 5 To fit a new seal, Ford recommend the use of their service tool 21-009B, with a bolt (10 mm thread size, 70 mm long) and a washer, to draw the seal into place when the camshaft bearing cap is bolted down; a substitute can be made using a suitable socket (see illustration). Grease the seal lips and periphery to ease installation, and draw

the seal into place until it is flush with the housing/bearing cap outer edge. Refit the bearing cap, using sealant and tightening the cap bolts as described in Section 11. 6 For most owners, the simplest answer will be to grease the seal lips, and to slide it onto the camshaft (until it is flush with the housing’s outer edge). Refit the bearing cap, using sealant and tightening the cap bolts as described in Section 11 (see illustration). Take care to ensure that the seal remains absolutely square in its housing, and is not distorted as the cap is tightened down. 7 Refit the sprocket to the camshaft, tightening the retaining bolt loosely, then slip the timing belt back onto the sprocket (refer to paragraphs 16 and 19 of Section 8) and tighten the bolt securely. 8 The remainder of the reassembly procedure, including checking the camshaft alignment (valve timing) and setting the timing belt tension, is as described in paragraphs 20 to 25 of Section 8.

11 Camshafts and hydraulic

tappets - removal, inspection

and refitting

Removal

1 Release the tension from the timing belt as described in Section 8, paragraphs 1 to 12. 2 Either remove the timing belt completely (Section 8, paragraphs 13 and 14) or slip it off the camshaft sprockets, taking care not to twist it too sharply; use the fingers only to handle the belt. Cover the belt, and secure it so that it is clear of the working area. Do not rotate the crankshaft until the timing belt is refitted. 3 Unfasten the sprocket bolts as described in Section 8, paragraph 16, and withdraw the sprockets; while both are the same and could be interchanged, it is good working practice to mark them so that each is refitted only to its original location (see illustration). 4 Working in the sequence shown, slacken progressively, by half a turn at a time, the camshaft bearing cap bolts (see illustration). Work only as described, to release gradually

2C•8 Zetec engine in-car repair procedures

11.4 Camshaft bearing cap slackening sequence

Note: Viewed from front of vehicle, showing

bearing cap numbers

11.3 Using forked holding tool while

camshaft toothed pulley bolt is slackened

10.6 Alternatively, seal can be inserted

when camshaft bearing cap is unbolted

10.5 Using socket and toothed pulley bolt to install camshaft oil seal

9.8 “FRONT” marking on outside face of

crankshaft toothed pulley - note which way

round thrustwasher behind is fitted

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

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and evenly the pressure of the valve springs on the caps. 5 Withdraw the caps, noting their markings and the presence of the locating dowels, then remove the camshafts and withdraw their oil seals. The inlet camshaft can be identified by the reference lobe for the camshaft position sensor; therefore, there is no need to mark the camshafts (see illustrations). 6 Obtain sixteen small, clean containers, and number them 1 to 16. Using a rubber sucker, withdraw each hydraulic tappet in turn, invert it to prevent oil loss, and place it in its respective container, which should then be filled with clean engine oil (see illustrations). Do not interchange the hydraulic tappets, or the rate of wear will be much increased. Do not allow them to lose oil, or they will take a long time to refill on restarting the engine, resulting in incorrect valve clearances.

Inspection

7 With the camshafts and hydraulic tappets removed, check each for signs of obvious wear (scoring, pitting etc) and for ovality, and renew if necessary. 8 Measure the outside diameter of each tappet (see illustration) - take measurements at the top and bottom of each tappet, then a second set at right-angles to the first; if any measurement is significantly different from the others, the tappet is tapered or oval and must

be renewed. If the necessary equipment is available, measure the inside diameter of the corresponding cylinder head bore. Compare the measurements obtained to those given in the Specifications Section of this Chapter; if the tappets or the cylinder head bores are excessively worn, new tappets and/or a new cylinder head will be required. 9 If the engine’s valve components have sounded noisy, particularly if the noise persists after initial start-up from cold, there is reason to suspect a faulty hydraulic tappet. Only a good mechanic experienced in these engines can tell whether the noise level is typical, or if renewal of one or more of the tappets is warranted. If faulty tappets are diagnosed, and the engine’s service history is unknown, it is always worth trying the effect of renewing the engine oil and filter (see Chapter 1), using only good-quality engine oil of the recommended viscosity and specification, before going to the expense of renewing any of the tappets - refer also to the advice in Section 5 of this Chapter. 10 Visually examine the camshaft lobes for score marks, pitting, galling (wear due to rubbing) and evidence of overheating (blue, discoloured areas). Look for flaking away of the hardened surface layer of each lobe. If any such signs are evident, renew the component concerned.

11 Examine the camshaft bearing journals and the cylinder head bearing surfaces for signs of obvious wear or pitting. If any such signs are evident, renew the component concerned. 12 Using a micrometer, measure the diameter of each journal at several points. If the diameter of any one journal is less than the specified value, renew the camshaft. 13 To check the bearing journal running clearance, remove the hydraulic tappets, use a suitable solvent and a clean lint-free rag to clean carefully all bearing surfaces, then refit the camshafts and bearing caps with a strand of Plastigauge across each journal. Tighten the bearing cap bolts to the specified torque wrench setting (do not rotate the camshafts), then remove the bearing caps and use the scale provided to measure the width of the compressed strands. Scrape off the Plastigauge with your fingernail or the edge of a credit card - don’t scratch or nick the journals or bearing caps. 14 If the running clearance of any bearing is found to be worn to beyond the specified service limits, fit a new camshaft and repeat the check; if the clearance is still excessive, the cylinder head must be renewed. 15 To check camshaft endfloat, remove the hydraulic tappets, clean the bearing surfaces carefully, and refit the camshafts and bearing

Zetec engine in-car repair procedures 2C•9

11.6a Removing hydraulic tappets

11.5b Inlet camshaft has lobe for camshaft position sensor11.5a Note locating dowels when removing camshaft bearing

caps

11.8 Use a micrometer to measure diameter of hydraulic tappets

11.6b Hydraulic tappets must be stored as described in text

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caps. Tighten the bearing cap bolts to the specified torque wrench setting, then measure the endfloat using a DTI (Dial Test Indicator, or dial gauge) mounted on the cylinder head so that its tip bears on the camshaft right-hand end. 16 Tap the camshaft fully towards the gauge, zero the gauge, then tap the camshaft fully away from the gauge, and note the gauge reading. If the endfloat measured is found to be at or beyond the specified service limit, fit a new camshaft and repeat the check; if the clearance is still excessive, the cylinder head must be renewed.

Refitting

17 On reassembly, liberally oil the cylinder head hydraulic tappet bores and the tappets (see illustration). Note that if new tappets are being fitted, they must be charged with clean engine oil before installation. Carefully refit the tappets to the cylinder head, ensuring that each tappet is refitted to its original bore, and is the correct way up. Some care will be required to enter the tappets squarely into their bores. 18 Liberally oil the camshaft bearings and lobes. Ensuring that each camshaft is in its original location, refit the camshafts, locating each so that the slot in its left-hand end is approximately parallel to, and just above, the cylinder head mating surface. 19 Ensure that the locating dowels are

pressed firmly into their recesses, and check that all mating surfaces are completely clean, unmarked and free from oil. Apply a thin film of suitable sealant (Ford recommend Loctite 518) to the mating surfaces of each camshaft’s right-hand bearing cap (see illustration). Referring to paragraph 6 of Section 10, some owners may wish to fit the new camshaft oil seals at this stage. 20 All camshaft bearing caps have a singledigit identifying number etched on them (see illustration). The exhaust camshaft’s bearing caps are numbered in sequence 0 to 4, the inlet’s 5 to 9; see illustration 11.21a for details. Each cap is to be fitted so that its numbered side faces outwards, to the front (exhaust) or to the rear (inlet). 21 Ensuring that each cap is kept square to the cylinder head as it is tightened down, and working in the sequence shown, tighten the camshaft bearing cap bolts slowly and by one turn at a time, until each cap touches the cylinder head (see illustration). Next, go round again in the same sequence, tightening the bolts to the first stage torque wrench setting specified, then once more, tightening them to the second stage setting. Work only as described, to impose gradually and evenly the pressure of the valve springs on the caps. Fit the camshaft-aligning tool; it should slip into place as described in paragraph 8 of Section 8 (see illustration). 22 Wipe off all surplus sealant, so that none is left to find its way into any oilways. Follow

the sealant manufacturer’s instructions as to the time needed for curing; usually, at least an hour must be allowed between application of the sealant and starting the engine. 23 If using Ford’s recommended procedure, fit new oil seals to the camshafts as described in paragraph 5 of Section 10. 24 Using the marks and notes made on dismantling to ensure that each is refitted to its original camshaft, refit the sprockets to the camshafts, tightening the retaining bolts loosely. Slip the timing belt back onto the sprockets (refer to paragraph 19 of Section 8) and tighten the bolts securely - use the forked holding tool described in paragraph 16 of Section 8. 25 The remainder of the reassembly procedure, including checking the camshaft alignment (valve timing) and setting the timing belt tension, is as described in paragraphs 15 to 25 of Section 8.

12 Cylinder head -

removal and refitting

Removal

Note: The following text assumes that the cylinder head will be removed with both inlet and exhaust manifolds attached. This simplifies the procedure, but makes it a bulky and heavy assembly to handle - an engine hoist will be required, to prevent the risk of injury, and to prevent damage to any delicate components as the assembly is removed and refitted. If it is wished first to remove the manifolds, refer to Chapter 4D, then amend the following procedure accordingly.

1 Depressurise the fuel system (see Chapter 4D). 2 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1). 3 Refer to Chapter 4D and remove the air inlet components. 4 Equalise the pressure in the fuel tank by removing the filler cap, then undo the fuel feed and return lines connecting the engine to the chassis (see Chapter 4D). Plug or cap all open fittings.

2C•10 Zetec engine in-car repair procedures

11.21b Fit camshaft-aligning tool to set TDC position while camshaft toothed

pulleys are refitted

11.21a Camshaft bearing cap tightening sequence

Note: View from front of vehicle - locate

bearing caps according to etched numbers,

aligned as described in text

11.20 Etched marks on camshaft bearing

caps must be arranged as shown, and face

outwards

11.19 Apply sealant to mating surface of camshaft right-hand bearing caps

11.17 Oil liberally when refitting hydraulic tappets

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5 Disconnect the accelerator cable from the throttle linkage as described in Chapter 4D. Secure the cable clear of the engine/ transmission. 6 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt (see Chapter 1). 7 Remove the three screws securing the wiring “rail” to the rear of the manifold. Releasing its wire clip, unplug the large electrical connector (next to the fuel pressure regulator) to disconnect the engine wiring from the main loom (see illustration). Unplug the electrical connectors on each side of the ignition coil, and the single connector from beneath the front of the thermostat housing, to disconnect the coil and coolant temperature gauge sender wiring (see illustration). 8 Marking or labelling them as they are unplugged, disconnect the vacuum hoses as follows:

a) One from the rear of the throttle housing

(only the one hose - there is no need to disconnect the second hose running to the fuel pressure regulator).

b) One from the union on the inlet manifold’s

left-hand end.

c) The braking system vacuum servo unit

hose (see Chapter 9 for details).

9 Unbolt the engine earth lead from the cylinder head lifting eye. 10 Unbolt both parts of the exhaust manifold heat shield. Either remove the dipstick and tube, or swing them out of the way. 11 Unscrew the pulse-air filter housing retaining bolt, then disconnect its vacuum hose.

12 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1). 13 Disconnect all coolant hoses from the thermostat housing (see illustration).

14 Unscrew the two nuts to disconnect the

exhaust system front downpipe from the manifold (Chapter 4B); disconnect the oxygen sensor wiring, so that it is not strained by the weight of the exhaust system. 15 Remove the timing belt and both camshafts (see Sections 8 and 11); if the cylinder head is to be dismantled, withdraw the hydraulic tappets. 16 Remove the timing belt inner shield (see Section 7. 17 Working in the reverse of the sequence shown in illustration 12.28a, slacken the ten cylinder head bolts progressively and by one turn at a time; a Torx key (TX 55 size) will be required. Remove each bolt in turn, and ensure that new replacements are obtained for reassembly; these bolts are subjected to severe stresses and so must be renewed, regardless of their apparent condition, whenever they are disturbed. 18 Lift the cylinder head away; use assistance if possible, as it is a heavy assembly. If necessary, grip the manifolds and rock it free from the location dowels on the top face of the cylinder block. Do not attempt to tap it sideways or lever between the head and the block top face. Remove the gasket, noting the two dowels, and discard it.

Preparation for refitting

19 The mating faces of the cylinder head and cylinder block must be perfectly clean before

refitting the head. Use a hard plastic or wood scraper to remove all traces of gasket and carbon; also clean the piston crowns. Take particular care during the cleaning operations, as aluminium alloy is easily damaged. Also, make sure that the carbon is not allowed to enter the oil and water passages - this is particularly important for the lubrication system, as carbon could block the oil supply to the engine’s components. Using adhesive tape and paper, seal the water, oil and bolt holes in the cylinder block.

20 Check the mating surfaces of the cylinder block and the cylinder head for nicks, deep scratches and other damage. If slight, they may be removed carefully with a file, but if excessive, machining may be the only alternative to renewal. 21 If warpage of the cylinder head gasket surface is suspected, use a straight-edge to check it for distortion. Refer to Part D of this Chapter if necessary.

Refitting

22 Wipe clean the mating surfaces of the cylinder head and cylinder block. Check that the two locating dowels are in position in the cylinder block, and that all cylinder head bolt holes are free from oil. 23 Position a new gasket over the dowels on the cylinder block surface, so that the “TOP/OBEN” mark is uppermost, and with the tooth (or teeth, according to engine size) protruding from the front edge (see

illustration). 24 Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley,

and rotate the crankshaft anti-clockwise so that No 1 cylinder’s piston is lowered to approximately 20 mm before TDC, thus avoiding any risk of valve/piston contact and damage during reassembly.

Zetec engine in-car repair procedures 2C•11

12.13 Disconnect all coolant hoses from thermostat housing

12.7b Unplug connectors (arrowed) to disconnect ignition coil wiring

12.7a Unplug engine wiring loom

connector alongside the inlet manifold

12.23 Ensuring protruding tooth (or teeth) “A” are at front and marking “B” is

upwards, locate new cylinder head gasket

on dowels “C”

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Whenever you disconnect any vacuum lines, coolant or emissions hoses, wiring

To prevent carbon entering the gap between the pistons and bores, smear a little

grease in the gap. After cleaning each piston, use a small brush to remove all traces of grease and carbon from the gap, then wipe away the remainder with a clean rag.

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25 As the cylinder head is such a heavy and awkward assembly to refit with manifolds, it is helpful to make up a pair of guide studs from two 10 mm (thread size) studs approximately 90 mm long, with a screwdriver slot cut in one end - two old cylinder head bolts with their heads cut off would make a good starting point. Screw these guide studs, screwdriver slot upwards to permit removal, into the bolt holes at diagonally-opposite corners of the cylinder block surface (or into those where the locating dowels are fitted); ensure that approximately 70 mm of stud protrudes above the gasket. 26 Refit the cylinder head, sliding it down the guide studs (if used) and locating it on the dowels. Unscrew the guide studs (if used) when the head is in place.

27 Fit the new cylinder head bolts dry (do not oil their threads); carefully enter each into its

hole and screw it in, by hand only, until fingertight. 28 Working progressively and in the sequence shown, use first a torque wrench, then an ordinary socket extension bar and an angle gauge, to tighten the cylinder head bolts in the stages given in the Specifications Section of this Chapter (see illustrations).

Note: Once tightened correctly, following this procedure, the cylinder head bolts do not require check-tightening, and must not be retorqued.

29 Refit the hydraulic tappets (if removed), the camshafts, their oil seals and sprockets (see Sections 11, 10 and 9, as appropriate). Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley, and rotate the crankshaft clockwise to return the pulley notches to the TDC position described in Section 3.

30 Refit the earth lead to the lifting eye 31 Refit the timing belt and covers, checking

the camshaft alignment (valve timing) and setting the timing belt tension, as described in Section 8. 32 The remainder of reassembly is the reverse of the removal procedure, noting the following points:

a) Tighten all fasteners to the torque wrench

settings specified.

b) Refill the cooling system, and top-up the

engine oil (see Chapter 1 and “Weekly Checks”).

c) Check all disturbed joints for signs of oil

or coolant leakage, once the engine has been restarted and warmed-up to normal operating temperature.

d) If the power steering hoses where

disconnected, bleed the system as described in Chapter 10 after reconnection.

13 Sump -

removal and refitting

Removal

Note: The full procedure outlined below must be followed, so that the mating surfaces can be cleaned and prepared to achieve an oiltight joint on reassembly, and so that the sump can be aligned correctly; depending on your skill and experience, and the tools and facilities available, it may be that this task can be carried out only with the engine removed from the vehicle. Note that the sump gasket must be renewed whenever it is disturbed.

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1). 2 Drain the engine oil, then clean and refit the engine oil drain plug, tightening it to the specified torque wrench setting. Although not strictly necessary as part of the dismantling procedure, owners are advised to remove and discard the oil filter, so that it can be renewed with the oil (see Chapter 1). 3 Refer to Chapter 5A and remove the starter motor. 4 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt cover (see Chapter 1). 5 Unplug the electrical connector(s) to disconnect the oxygen sensor. 6 Unscrew the nuts to disconnect the exhaust system front downpipe from the manifold, then either unhook all the system’s rubber mountings and withdraw the complete exhaust system from under the vehicle, or remove only the downpipe/catalytic converter (see Chapter 4E for details).

7 Unscrew the sump-to-transmission bolts, also any securing the engine/transmission lower adapter plate. 8 Progressively unscrew the sump retaining bolts. Break the joint by striking the sump with the palm of the hand, then lower the sump and withdraw it with the engine/transmission lower adapter plate (where fitted); note the presence of any shims between the sump and transmission. 9 Remove and discard the sump gasket; this must be renewed as a matter of course whenever it is disturbed. 10 While the sump is removed, take the opportunity to remove the oil pump pickup/strainer pipe and to clean it (see Section 14).

Refitting

11 On reassembly, thoroughly clean and degrease the mating surfaces of the cylinder block/crankcase and sump, then use a clean rag to wipe out the sump and the engine’s interior. If the oil pump pick-up/strainer pipe was removed, fit a new gasket and refit the pipe, tightening its screws to the specified torque wrench setting. Fit the new gasket to the sump mating surface so that the gasket fits into the sump groove (see illustration). 12 If the sump is being refitted with the engine/transmission still connected and in the vehicle, proceed as follows:

a) Check that the mating surfaces of the

sump, the cylinder block/crankcase and

2C•12 Zetec engine in-car repair procedures

13.11 Ensure gasket is located correctly in sump groove

12.28c . . . and to Stage 3 using angle gauge

12.28b Tightening cylinder head bolts

(Stages 1 and 2) using torque wrench . . .

12.28a Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence

Note: View from rear of vehicle

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the transmission are absolutely clean and flat. Any shims found on removal of the sump must be refitted in their original locations.

b) Apply a thin film of suitable sealant (Ford

recommend Hylosil 102) to the junctions of the cylinder block/crankcase with the oil pump and the crankshaft left-hand oil seal carrier. Without delay - the sump bolts must be fully tightened within 10 to 20 minutes of applying the sealant - offer up the sump and engine/transmission lower adapter plate, and refit the bolts, tightening them lightly at first.

c) Ensuring that the engine/transmission

lower adapter plate is correctly located, firmly press the sump against the transmission, and tighten the transmission-to-sump (ie, engine) bolts to the specified torque wrench setting.

d) Without disturbing the position of the

sump, and working in a diagonal sequence from the centre outwards, tighten the sump bolts to the specified torque wrench setting.

e) Proceed to paragraph 14.

13 If the sump is being refitted with the engine and transmission separated (in or out of the vehicle), proceed as follows:

a) Apply a thin film of suitable sealant (Ford

recommend Hylosil 102) to the junctions of the cylinder block/crankcase with the oil pump and the crankshaft left-hand oil

seal carrier (see illustration). Without delay

- the sump bolts must be fully tightened within 10 to 20 minutes of applying the sealant - offer up the sump to the cylinder block/crankcase, and insert the sump bolts, tightening them lightly at first.

b) Using a suitable straight edge to check

alignment across the flat-machined faces of each, move the sump as necessary so that its left-hand face - including any shims found on removal - is flush with that of the cylinder block/crankcase (see illustration). Without disturbing the position of the sump, and working in a diagonal sequence from the centre outwards, tighten the sump bolts to the specified torque wrench setting.

c) Check again that both faces are flush

before proceeding; if necessary, unbolt the sump again, clean the mating surfaces, and repeat the full procedure to ensure that the sump is correctly aligned.

d) If it is not possible to achieve exact

alignment by moving the sump, shims are available in thicknesses of 0.25 mm (colour-coded yellow) or 0.50 mm (colourcoded black) to eliminate the discrepancy (see illustration).

14 The remainder of reassembly is the reverse of the removal procedure, noting the following points.

a) Tighten all fasteners to the torque wrench

settings specified.

b) Always renew any self-locking nuts

disturbed on removal. c) Refill the cooling system (see Chapter 1). d) Refill the engine with oil, remembering

that you are advised to fit a new filter (see

Chapter 1). e) Check for signs of oil or coolant leaks

once the engine has been restarted and

warmed-up to normal operating

temperature.

14 Oil pump - removal,

inspection and refitting

Removal

Note: While this task is theoretically possible when the engine is in place in the vehicle, in practice, it requires so much preliminary dismantling, and is so difficult to carry out due to the restricted access, that owners are advised to remove the engine from the vehicle first. Note, however, that the oil pump pressure relief valve can be removed with the engine in situ - see paragraph 8.

1 Remove the timing belt (see Section 8). 2 Withdraw the crankshaft sprocket and the

thrustwasher behind it, noting which way round the thrustwasher is fitted (see Section 9).

3 Remove the sump (see Section 13). 4 Undo the screws securing the oil pump

pick-up/strainer pipe to the pump, then unscrew the nut and withdraw the oil pump pick-up/strainer pipe. Discard the gasket. 5 Unbolt the pump from the cylinder block/crankcase (see illustration). Withdraw and discard the gasket, and remove the crankshaft right-hand oil seal. Thoroughly clean and degrease all components, particularly the mating surfaces of the pump, the sump, and the cylinder block/crankcase.

Inspection

6 Unscrew the Torx screws, and remove the pump cover plate; noting any identification marks on the rotors, withdraw the rotors (see illustration).

Zetec engine in-car repair procedures 2C•13

13.13c Sump-to-cylinder block/crankcase

alignment shims

1 Fitting points on sump 2 Shim

13.13b Checking alignment of sump with cylinder block/crankcase

13.13a Apply sealant (arrowed) as directed when refitting sump

14.6 Withdrawing oil pump inner rotor14.5 Unscrew bolts (arrowed) to remove

oil pump

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7 Inspect the rotors for obvious signs of wear or damage, and renew if necessary; if either rotor, the pump body, or its cover plate are scored or damaged, the complete oil pump assembly must be renewed. 8 The oil pressure relief valve can be dismantled, if required, without disturbing the pump. Chock the rear wheels then jack up the front of the car and support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove the front right-hand roadwheel and auxiliary drivebelt cover (see Chapter 1) to provide access to the valve. 9 Unscrew the threaded plug, and recover the valve spring and plunger (see illustrations). If the plug’s sealing O-ring is worn or damaged, a new one must be obtained, to be fitted on reassembly. 10 Reassembly is the reverse of the

dismantling procedure; ensure the spring and valve are refitted the correct way round, and tighten the threaded plug securely.

Refitting

11 The oil pump must be primed on installation, by pouring clean engine oil into it, and rotating its inner rotor a few turns. 12 Using grease to stick the new gasket in place on the cylinder block/crankcase, and rotating the pump’s inner rotor to align with the flats on the crankshaft, refit the pump and insert the bolts, tightening them lightly at first

(see illustration). 13 Using a suitable straight edge and feeler

gauges, check that the pump is both centred exactly around the crankshaft, and aligned squarely so that its (sump) mating surface is exactly the same amount - between 0.3 and

0.8 mm - below that of the cylinder block/crankcase on each side of the crankshaft (see illustration). Being careful not to disturb the gasket, move the pump into the correct position, and tighten its bolts to the specified torque wrench setting. 14 Check that the pump is correctly located; if necessary, unbolt it again, and repeat the full procedure to ensure that the pump is correctly aligned. 15 Fit a new crankshaft right-hand oil seal (see Section 15). 16 Using grease to stick the gasket in place on the pump, refit the pick-up/strainer pipe, tightening its screws and nut to their specified torque wrench settings (see illustration).

17 The remainder of reassembly is the reverse of the removal procedure, referring to the relevant text for details where required.

15 Crankshaft oil seals -

renewal

Note: Don’t try to prise these seals out without removing the oil pump or seal carrier - the seals are too soft, and the amount of space available is too small, for this to be possible without considerable risk of damage to the seal housing and/or the crankshaft journal. Follow exactly the procedure given below.

Right-hand seal

1 Remove the oil pump (see Section 14). 2 Drive the oil seal out of the pump from behind (see illustration). 3 Clean the seal housing and crankshaft,

polishing off any burrs or raised edges, which may have caused the seal to fail in the first place. 4 Refit the oil pump (see Section 14). Grease the lips and periphery of the new seal, to ease installation. 5 To fit a new seal, Ford recommend the use of their service tool 21-093A, with the crankshaft pulley bolt, to draw the seal into place; an alternative can be arranged using a socket of suitable size, with a washer to match the crankshaft pulley bolt (see illustration).

2C•14 Zetec engine in-car repair procedures

15.5 Socket of correct size can be used to replace Ford service tool, drawing new

seal into place as described

15.2 Driving out crankshaft right-hand oil seal

14.16 Use new gasket when refitting oil pick-up pipe to pump

14.13 Oil pump must be positioned accurately

14.12 Use new gasket when refitting oil pump

14.9b . . . to withdraw oil pressure relief valve spring and plunger

14.9a Unscrew threaded plug - seen through right-hand wheel arch . . .

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6 If such tools are not available, press the seal squarely into place by hand; tap it in until it is flush with the pump housing, using a softfaced mallet and a socket with an outside diameter only slightly smaller than the seal’s (see illustration). This approach requires great care, to ensure that the seal is fitted squarely, without distortion or damage. 7 Wash off any traces of oil. The remainder of reassembly is the reverse of the removal procedure, referring to the relevant text for details where required. Check for signs of oil leakage when the engine is restarted.

Left-hand seal

8 Remove the transmission (see the relevant Part of Chapter 7). 9 Where appropriate, remove the clutch (Chapter 6). 10 Unbolt the flywheel/driveplate (see Section 17).

11 Remove the sump (see Section 13). 12 Unbolt the oil seal carrier (see illustration). Remove and discard its gasket. 13 Supporting the carrier evenly on wooden

blocks, drive the oil seal out of the carrier from behind (see illustration). 14 Clean the seal housing and crankshaft, polishing off any burrs or raised edges, which may have caused the seal to fail in the first place. Clean also the mating surfaces of the cylinder block/crankcase and carrier, using a

scraper to remove all traces of the old gasket

- be careful not to scratch or damage the material of either - then use a suitable solvent to degrease them. 15 Use grease to stick the new gasket in place on the cylinder block/crankcase, then offer up the carrier (see illustration). 16 Using a suitable straight edge and feeler gauges, check that the carrier is both centred exactly around the crankshaft, and aligned squarely so that its (sump) mating surface is exactly the same amount - between 0.3 and

0.8 mm - below that of the cylinder block/crankcase on each side of the crankshaft (see illustration). Being careful not to disturb the gasket, move the carrier into the correct position, and tighten its bolts to the specified torque wrench setting. 17 Check that the carrier is correctly located; if necessary, unbolt it again, and repeat the full procedure to ensure that the carrier is correctly aligned. 18 Ford’s recommended method of seal fitting is to use service tool 21-141, with two flywheel bolts to draw the seal into place. If this is not available, make up a guide from a thin sheet of plastic or similar, lubricate the lips of the new seal and the crankshaft shoulder with grease, then offer up the seal, with the guide feeding the seal’s lips over the crankshaft shoulder (see illustration). Press the seal evenly into its housing by hand only,

and use a soft-faced mallet gently to tap it into place until it is flush with the surrounding housing. 19 Wipe off any surplus oil or grease; the remainder of the reassembly procedure is the reverse of dismantling, referring to the relevant text for details where required. Check for signs of oil leakage when the engine is restarted.

16 Engine/transmission

mountings -

inspection and renewal

Inspection

Zetec engine in-car repair procedures 2C•15

15.13 . . . and ensure that carrier is

properly supported when driving out used

oil seal - note notches provided in carrier

for drift

15.12 Unscrew bolts (arrowed) to remove crankshaft left-hand oil seal carrier . . .

15.6 If seal is tapped into place as shown, exercise great care to prevent seal from

being damaged or distorted

15.18 Using guide made from thin sheet of plastic to slide oil seal lips over crankshaft

shoulder

15.16 Oil seal carrier must be positioned accurately

15.15 Use new gasket when refitting lefthand oil seal carrier

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4 Check the mountings to see if the rubber is cracked, hardened or separated from the metal components. Sometimes, the rubber will split right down the centre. 5 Check for relative movement between each mounting’s brackets and the engine/ transmission or body (use a large screwdriver or lever to attempt to move the mountings). If movement is noted, lower the engine and check-tighten the mounting fasteners.

Renewal

Engine front right-hand mounting

8 This mounting consists of a two-piece

bracket bolted to the inner wing panel, connected by the bonded-rubber mounting itself to a (Y-shaped) bracket, bolted (via the alternator mounting bracket) to the cylinder block (see illustration). 9 Unscrew the three bolts securing the front right-hand mounting bracket to the alternator mounting bracket. 10 Unscrew the bolts securing the mounting bracket to the inner wing panel and chassis rail and withdraw the mounting assembly.

Engine rear right-hand mounting

11 This mounting consists of the bonded-

rubber mounting secured to the inner wing panel by a (horizontal) bolt, accessible from within the wheel arch, and a (vertical) stud, the retaining nut of which is accessible from the engine compartment. The mounting is bolted to a bracket, which is in turn bolted to the cylinder block. 12 Unbolt the mounting from the body by unscrewing first the single nut (and washer) immediately to the rear of the timing belt cover, then the bolt in the wheel arch. 13 Unbolt the mounting from the cylinder block bracket and withdraw the mounting assembly.

Transmission bearer and mountings

14 On XR2i models, remove the front

suspension crossmember as described in Chapter 10. 15 Unscrew and remove the two nuts securing the mountings (front and rear) to the transmission bearer 16 Support the transmission bearer, then undo and remove the four retaining bolts from the floorpan, two at the front and two at the rear, and lower the transmission bearer from the vehicle. Note plate fitment, as applicable, for reassembly. 17 To remove the mountings from the transmission, unscrew the upper bolt and lower stud (front mounting) or the three nuts (rear mounting) and withdraw the relevant mounting and bracket assembly from the transmission.

All mountings

18 Refitting of all mountings is a reversal of

removal. Make sure that the original sequence of assembly of washers and plates is maintained. 19 Do not fully tighten any mounting bolts until they are all located. As the mounting bolts and nuts are tightened, check that the mounting rubbers do not twist.

17 Flywheel/driveplate -

removal, inspection and refitting

Removal

1 Remove the transmission (see the relevant Part of Chapter 7). 2 Where appropriate, remove the clutch (Chapter 6). 3 Use a centre-punch or paint to make

alignment marks on the flywheel/driveplate and crankshaft, to ensure correct alignment during refitting. 4 Prevent the flywheel/driveplate from turning by locking the ring gear teeth, or by bolting a strap between the flywheel/driveplate and the cylinder block/crankcase. Slacken the bolts evenly until all are free. 5 Remove each bolt in turn, and ensure that new replacements are obtained for reassembly; these bolts are subjected to severe stresses, and so must be renewed, regardless of their apparent condition, whenever they are disturbed. 6 Noting the reinforcing plate (automatic transmission models only), withdraw the flywheel/driveplate; do not drop it - it is very heavy.

Inspection

7 Clean the flywheel/driveplate to remove grease and oil. Inspect the surface for cracks, rivet grooves, burned areas and score marks. Light scoring can be removed with emery cloth. Check for cracked and broken ring gear teeth. Lay the flywheel/driveplate on a flat surface, and use a straight edge to check for warpage. 8 Clean and inspect the mating surfaces of the flywheel/driveplate and the crankshaft. If the crankshaft left-hand seal is leaking, renew it (see Section 15) before refitting the flywheel/driveplate. 9 While the flywheel/driveplate is removed, clean carefully its inboard (right-hand) face, particularly the recesses which serve as the reference points for the crankshaft speed/ position sensor. Clean the sensor’s tip, and check that the sensor is securely fastened.

Refitting

10 On refitting, ensure that the engine/ transmission adapter plate is in place (where necessary), then fit the flywheel/driveplate to the crankshaft so that all bolt holes align - it will fit only one way - check this using the marks made on removal. Do not forget the reinforcing plate (automatic transmission models). 11 Lock the flywheel/driveplate by the method used on dismantling. Working in a diagonal sequence to tighten them evenly, and increasing to the final amount in two or three stages, tighten the new bolts to the specified torque wrench setting. 12 The remainder of reassembly is the reverse of the removal procedure, referring to the relevant text for details where required.

2C•16 Zetec engine in-car repair procedures

16.8 Engine front right-hand mounting

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Page 69

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

HCS engines

Cylinder head

Maximum permissible gasket surface distortion (measured over

full length) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.15 mm

Valve seat angle (inlet and exhaust) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45º

Valve seat width (inlet and exhaust) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.18 to 1.75 mm*

*The inlet and exhaust valves have special inserts which cannot be recut using conventional tools.

Valves - general Inlet Exhaust

Valve length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103.7 to 104.4 mm 104.2 to 104.7 mm

Valve head diameter:

1.0 and 1.1 litre engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32.90 to 33.10 mm 28.90 to 29.10 mm

1.3 litre engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34.40 to 34.60 mm 28.90 to 29.10 mm

Valve stem diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.0 mm 7.0 mm

Valve stem-to-guide clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.020 to 0.069 0.046 to 0.095

Cylinder block

Cylinder bore diameter:

1.0 and 1.1 litre engines:

Standard class 1 (or A) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68.68 to 68.69 mm

Standard class 2 (or B) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68.69 to 68.70 mm

Standard class 3 (or C) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68.70 to 68.71 mm

Oversize 0.5 mm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69.20 to 69.21 mm

Oversize 1.0 mm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69.70 to 69.71 mm

1.3 litre engines:

Standard class 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73.94 to 73.95 mm

Standard class 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73.50 to 73.96 mm

Standard class 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73.96 to 73.97 mm

Oversize 0.5 mm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74.50 to 74.51 mm

Oversize 1.0 mm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75.00 to 75.01 mm

Chapter 2 Part D:

Engine removal and overhaul procedures

Camshaft and tappets - removal, inspection and refitting

(HCS engines) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Crankshaft - refitting and main bearing running clearance

check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

Crankshaft - removal and inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

Cylinder block/crankcase - cleaning and inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Cylinder head - dismantling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Cylinder head - reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

Cylinder head and valve components - cleaning and inspection . . . 8

Engine - initial start-up after overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

Engine - removal and refitting (HCS engines) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Engine overhaul - preliminary information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Engine overhaul - reassembly sequence . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

Engine/transmission removal - preparation and precautions . . . . . . 2

Engine/transmission - removal and refitting (CVH and

PTE engines) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Engine/transmission - removal and refitting (Zetec engines) . . . . . . 5

General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Main and big-end bearings - inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

Piston/connecting rod assemblies - refitting and big-end

bearing running clearance check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

Piston/connecting rod assemblies - removal and inspection . . . . . . 11

Piston rings - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

2D•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable for

novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Page 70

Pistons and piston rings

Piston diameter:

1.0 and 1.1 litre engines:

Standard class 1 (or A) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68.65 to 68.66 mm

Standard class 2 (or B) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68.66 to 68.67 mm

Standard class 3 (or C) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68.67 to 68.68 mm

Standard (service) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68.67 to 68.70 mm

Oversize 0.5 mm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69.16 to 69.19 mm

Oversize 1.0 mm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69.66 to 69.69 mm

1.3 litre engines:

Standard class 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73.91 to 73.92 mm

Standard class 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73.92 to 73.93 mm

Standard class 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73.93 to 73.94 mm

Oversize 0.5 mm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74.46 to 74.49 mm

Oversize 1.0 mm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74.96 to 74.99 mm

Piston-to-cylinder bore clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.015 to 0.050 mm

Piston ring end gap - installed:

Top compression ring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.25 to 0.45 mm

Second compression ring:

1.0 and 1.1 litre engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.25 to 0.45 mm

1.3 litre engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.45 to 0.75 mm

Oil control ring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.20 to 0.40 mm

Piston ring-to-groove clearance:

Compression rings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.20 mm (maximum)

Oil control ring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.10 mm (maximum)

Ring gap position:

Top compression ring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Offset 180º from oil control ring gap

Second compression ring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Offset 90º from oil control ring gap

Oil control ring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Aligned with gudgeon pin

Gudgeon pin

Length:

1.0 and 1.1 litre engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58.6 to 59.4 mm

1.3 litre engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63.3 to 64.6 mm

Diameter:

White colour code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18.026 to 18.029 mm

Red colour code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18.029 to 18.032 mm

Blue colour code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18.032 to 18.035 mm

Yellow colour code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18.035 to 18.038 mm

Clearance in piston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.008 to 0.014 mm

Interference fit in connecting rod . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.016 to 0.048 mm

Crankshaft and bearings

Main bearing journal diameter:

1.0 and 1.1 litre engines:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56.990 to 57.000 mm

Standard (with yellow line) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56.980 to 56.990 mm

0.254 mm undersize (with green line) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56.726 to 56.746 mm

0.508 mm undersize (service) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56.472 to 56.492 mm

0.762 mm undersize (service) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56.218 to 56.238 mm

1.3 litre engines:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56.980 to 57.000 mm

0.254 mm undersize (with green line) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56.726 to 56.746 mm

0.508 mm undersize (service) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56.472 to 56.492 mm

0.762 mm undersize (service) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56.218 to 56.238 mm

Main bearing journal-to-shell running clearance:

1.0 and 1.1 litre engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.009 to 0.046 mm

1.3 litre engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.009 to 0.056 mm

Crankpin (big-end) bearing journal diameter:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40.99 to 41.01 mm

0.254 mm undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40.74 to 40.76 mm

0.508 mm undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40.49 to 40.51 mm

0.762 mm undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40.24 to 40.26 mm

Crankpin (big-end) bearing journal-to-shell running clearance . . . . . . . 0.006 to 0.060 mm

Crankshaft endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.100 to 0.250 mm

Thrustwasher thickness:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.80 to 2.85 mm

Oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.99 to 3.04 mm

2D•2 Engine removal and overhaul procedures

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Page 71

Camshaft

Endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.02 to 0.19 mm

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Main bearing cap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 70

*Crankpin (big-end) bearing cap bolts:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 3

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 90º

Engine-to-transmission bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 30

*New bolts must be used Note: Refer to Part A of this Chapter for remaining torque wrench settings.

CVH and PTE engines

Cylinder head

Maximum permissible gasket surface distortion (measured over

full length) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.15 mm

Camshaft bearing bore diameters in cylinder head (standard):

Bearing 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44.783 to 44.808 mm

Bearing 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45.033 to 45.058 mm

Bearing 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45.283 to 45.308 mm

Bearing 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45.533 to 45.558 mm

Bearing 5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45.783 to 45.808 mm

Camshaft bearing bore diameters in cylinder head (oversize):

Bearing 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45.188 to 45.163 mm

Bearing 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45.438 to 45.413 mm

Bearing 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45.668 to 45.663 mm

Bearing 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45.938 to 45.913 mm

Bearing 5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46.188 to 46.163 mm

Valve tappet bore diameter (standard) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22.235 to 22.265 mm

Valve tappet bore diameter (oversize) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22.489 to 22.519 mm

Valve seat angle (inlet and exhaust) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44º 30’ to 45º 30’

Valve seat width (inlet and exhaust) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.75 to 2.32 mm*

*The cylinder head has valve seat rings on the exhaust side. These valve seats cannot be recut with conventional tools.

Valves - general Inlet Exhaust

Valve length:

1.4 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136.29 to 136.75 mm 132.97 to 133.43 mm

1.6 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134.54 to 135.00 mm 131.57 to 132.03 mm

Valve head diameter:

1.4 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39.90 to 40.10 mm 33.90 to 34.10 mm

1.6 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41.90 to 42.10 mm 36.90 to 37.10 mm

Valve stem diameter (standard) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.025 to 8.043 mm 7.999 to 8.017 mm

Valve stem diameter (0.2 mm oversize) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.225 to 8.243 mm 8.199 to 8.217 mm

Valve stem diameter (0.4 mm oversize) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.425 to 8.443 mm 8.399 to 8.417 mm

Valve stem-to-guide clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.020 to 0.063 mm 0.046 to 0.089 mm

Cylinder block

Cylinder bore diameter:

1.4 litre engine:

Standard 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.22 to 77.23 mm

Standard 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.23 to 77.24 mm

Standard 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.24 to 77.25 mm

Standard 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.25 to 77.26 mm

Oversize A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.51 to 77.52 mm

Oversize B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.52 to 77.53 mm

Oversize C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.53 to 77.54 mm

1.6 litre engine:

Standard 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.94 to 79.95 mm

Standard 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.95 to 79.96 mm

Standard 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.96 to 79.97 mm

Standard 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.97 to 79.98 mm

Oversize A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.23 to 80.24 mm

Oversize B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.24 to 80.25 mm

Oversize C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.25 to 80.26 mm

Engine removal and overhaul procedures 2D•3

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Page 72

Pistons and piston rings

Piston diameter (production):

1.4 litre engine:

Standard 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.190 to 77.200 mm

Standard 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.200 to 77.210 mm

Standard 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.210 to 77.220 mm

Standard 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.220 to 77.230 mm

Oversize A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.480 to 77.490 mm

Oversize B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.490 to 77.500 mm

Oversize C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.500 to 77.510 mm

1.6 litre carburettor engine and turbocharged engine:

Standard 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.910 to 79.920 mm

Standard 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.920 to 79.930 mm

Standard 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.930 to 79.940 mm

Standard 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.940 to 79.950 mm

Oversize A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.200 to 80.210 mm

Oversize B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.210 to 80.220 mm

Oversize C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.220 to 80.230 mm

1.6 litre EFi (non-turbo) fuel injection engine:

Standard 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.915 to 79.925 mm

Standard 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.925 to 79.935 mm

Standard 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.935 to 79.945 mm

Standard 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.945 to 79.955 mm

Oversize A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.205 to 80.215 mm

Oversize B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.215 to 80.225 mm

Oversize C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.225 to 80.235 mm

Piston-to-cylinder bore clearance:

1.4 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.020 to 0.040 mm

1.6 litre carburettor engine and turbocharged engine . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.020 to 0.040 mm

1.6 litre EFi (non-turbo) fuel injection engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.015 to 0.035 mm

Piston ring end gaps - installed:

Compression rings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.30 to 0.50 mm

Oil control rings:

1.4 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.40 to 1.40 mm

1.6 litre carburettor engine and turbocharged engine . . . . . . . . . . 0.40 to 1.40 mm

1.6 litre EFi (non-turbo) fuel injection engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.25 to 0.40 mm

Gudgeon pins

Length:

1.4 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63.000 to 63.800 mm

1.6 litre carburettor engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66.200 to 67.000 mm

1.6 litre EFi (non-turbo) fuel injection engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63.000 to 63.800 mm

1.6 litre turbocharged engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63.600 to 64.400 mm

Diameter:

White colour code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.622 to 20.625 mm

Red colour code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.625 to 20.628 mm

Blue colour code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.628 to 20.631 mm

Yellow colour code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.631 to 20.634 mm

Clearance in piston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.005 to 0.011 mm

Interference fit in connecting rod . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.013 to 0.045 mm

Crankshaft and bearings

Main bearing journal diameter:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57.98 to 58.00 mm

0.25 mm undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57.73 to 57.75 mm

0.50 mm undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57.48 to 57.50 mm

0.75 mm undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57.23 to 57.25 mm

Main bearing journal-to-shell running clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.011 to 0.058 mm

Crankpin (big-end) bearing journal diameter:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.89 to 47.91 mm

0.25 mm undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.64 to 47.66 mm

0.50 mm undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.39 to 47.41 mm

0.75 mm undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.14 to 47.16 mm

1.00 mm undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46.89 to 46.91 mm

Crankpin (big-end) bearing journal-to-shell running clearance . . . . . . . 0.006 to 0.060 mm

Crankshaft endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.09 to 0.30 mm

Thrustwasher thickness:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.301 to 2.351 mm

Oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.491 to 2.541 mm

2D•4 Engine removal and overhaul procedures

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Page 73

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Main bearing caps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 70

Crankpin (big-end) bearing caps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 24

Engine-to-transmission bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 30

Note: Refer to Part B of this Chapter for remaining torque wrench settings.

Zetec engines

Cylinder head

Maximum permissible gasket surface distortion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.10 mm

Valve seat included angle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90º

Valve guide bore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.060 to 6.091 mm

Valves - general Inlet Exhaust

Valve length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96.870 to 97.330 mm 96.470 to 96.930 mm

Valve head diameter:

1.6 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26.0 mm 24.5 mm

1.8 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32.0 mm 28.0 mm

Valve stem diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.028 to 6.043 mm 6.010 to 6.025 mm

Valve stem-to-guide clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.017 to 0.064 mm 0.035 to 0.081 mm

Cylinder block

Cylinder bore diameter:

1.6 litre engine:

Class 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76.000 to 76.010 mm

Class 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76.010 to 76.020 mm

Class 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76.020 to 76.030 mm

1.8 litre engine:

Class 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.600 to 80.610 mm

Class 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.610 to 80.620 mm

Class 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.620 to 80.630 mm

Pistons and piston rings

Piston diameter

1.6 litre engine:

Class 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75.975 to 75.985 mm

Class 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75.985 to 75.995 mm

Class 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75.995 to 76.005 mm

1.8 litre engine:

Class 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.570 to 80.580 mm

Class 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.580 to 80.590 mm

Class 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.590 to 80.600 mm

Oversizes - all engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . None available

Piston-to-cylinder bore clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Not specified

Piston ring end gaps - installed:

Compression rings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.30 to 0.50 mm

Oil control ring:

1.6 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.25 to 1.00 mm

1.8 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.38 to 1.14 mm

Gudgeon pin

Diameter:

White colour code/piston crown marked “A” . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.622 to 20.625 mm

Red colour code/piston crown marked “B” . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.625 to 20.628 mm

Blue colour code/piston crown marked “C” . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.628 to 20.631 mm

Clearance in piston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.010 to 0.016 mm

Interference fit in connecting rod . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.011 to 0.042 mm

Crankshaft and bearings

Main bearing journal standard diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57.980 to 58.000 mm

Main bearing journal-to-shell running clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.011 to 0.058 mm

Main bearing shell undersizes available . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.02 mm, 0.25 mm

Crankpin (big-end) bearing journal standard diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46.890 to 46.910 mm

Crankpin (big-end) bearing journal-to-shell running clearance . . . . . . . 0.016 to 0.070 mm

Big-end bearing shell undersizes available . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.02 mm, 0.25 mm

Crankshaft endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.090 to 0.310 mm

Engine removal and overhaul procedures 2D•5

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Page 74

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Main bearing cap bolts and nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 59

Crankpin (big-end) bearing cap bolts:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 13

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 90º

Piston-cooling oil jet/blanking plug Torx screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7

Cylinder block and head oilway blanking plugs:

M6 x 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7

M10 x 11.5 - in block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 17

1/4 PTF plug - in block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 18

Engine-to-transmission bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 30

Note: Refer to Part C of this Chapter for remaining torque wrench settings.

2D•6 Engine removal and overhaul procedures

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

1 General information

Included in this Part of Chapter 2 are details of removing the engine/transmission from the car and general overhaul procedures for the cylinder head, cylinder block/crankcase and all other engine internal components.

The information given ranges from advice concerning preparation for an overhaul and the purchase of replacement parts, to detailed step-by-step procedures covering removal, inspection, renovation and refitting of engine internal components.

After Section 6, all instructions are based on the assumption that the engine has been removed from the car. For information concerning in-car engine repair, as well as the removal and refitting of those external components necessary for full overhaul, refer to Part A, B or C of this Chapter (as applicable) and to Section 6. Ignore any preliminary dismantling operations described in Part A, B or C that are no longer relevant once the engine has been removed from the car.

2 Engine/transmission

removal - preparation and

precautions

If you have decided that an engine must be removed for overhaul or major repair work, several preliminary steps should be taken.

Locating a suitable place to work is extremely important. Adequate work space, along with storage space for the car, will be needed. If a workshop or garage is not available, at the very least, a flat, level, clean work surface is required.

If possible, clear some shelving close to the work area and use it to store the engine components and ancillaries as they are removed and dismantled. In this manner the components stand a better chance of staying clean and undamaged during the overhaul. Laying out components in groups together with their fixing bolts, screws etc will save time and avoid confusion when the engine is refitted.

Clean the engine compartment and engine/transmission before beginning the removal procedure; this will help visibility and help to keep tools clean.

On three of the engines covered in this manual (CVH, PTE, and Zetec), the unit can only be withdrawn by removing it complete with the transmission; the vehicle’s body must be raised and supported securely, sufficiently high that the engine/transmission can be unbolted as a single unit and lowered to the ground; the engine/transmission unit can then be withdrawn from under the vehicle and separated. On all engines, an engine hoist or A-frame will be necessary. Make sure the equipment is rated in excess of the combined weight of the engine and transmission.

The help of an assistant should be available; there are certain instances when one person cannot safely perform all of the operations required to remove the engine from the vehicle. Safety is of primary importance, considering the potential hazards involved in this kind of operation. A second person should always be in attendance to offer help in an emergency. If this is the first time you have removed an engine, advice and aid from someone more experienced would also be beneficial.

Plan the operation ahead of time. Before starting work, obtain (or arrange for the hire of) all of the tools and equipment you will need. Access to the following items will allow the task of removing and refitting the engine/transmission to be completed safely and with relative ease: an engine hoist - rated in excess of the combined weight of the engine/transmission, a heavy-duty trolley jack, complete sets of spanners and sockets as described in “Tools and working facilities” at the rear this manual, wooden blocks, and plenty of rags and cleaning solvent for mopping up spilled oil, coolant and fuel. A selection of different sized plastic storage bins will also prove useful for keeping dismantled components grouped together. If any of the equipment must be hired, make sure that you arrange for it in advance, and perform all of the operations possible without it beforehand; this may save you time and money.

Plan on the vehicle being out of use for quite a while, especially if you intend to carry out an engine overhaul. Read through the whole of this Section and work out a strategy

based on your own experience and the tools, time and workspace available to you. Some of the overhaul processes may have to be carried out by a Ford dealer or an engineering works - these establishments often have busy schedules, so it would be prudent to consult them before removing or dismantling the engine, to get an idea of the amount of time required to carry out the work.

When removing the engine from the vehicle, be methodical about the disconnection of external components. Labelling cables and hoses as they removed will greatly assist the refitting process.

Always be extremely careful when lifting the engine/transmission assembly from the engine bay. Serious injury can result from careless actions. If help is required, it is better to wait until it is available rather than risk personal injury and/or damage to components by continuing alone. By planning ahead and taking your time, a job of this nature, although major, can be accomplished successfully and without incident.

3 Engine - removal and

refitting (HCS engines)

Warning: Petrol is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when disconnecting

any part of the fuel system. Don’t smoke, or allow naked flames or bare light bulbs, in or near the work area, and don’t work in a garage where a natural-gas appliance (such as a clothes dryer or water heater) is installed. If you spill petrol on your skin, rinse it off immediately. Have a fire extinguisher rated for petrol fires handy, and know how to use it.

Note: Read through the entire Section, as well as reading the advice in the preceding Section, before beginning this procedure. The engine is removed separately from the transmission and is lifted upwards and out of the engine compartment.

Removal

1 On fuel injection engines, refer to Chapter 4B and depressurise the fuel system. 2 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).

Page 75

3 Referring to Chapter 1 for details, drain the coolant and engine oil. Refit the drain plug to the sump on completion. 4 Remove the bonnet as described in Chapter 11. 5 Remove the air cleaner assembly as described in the relevant Part of Chapter 4. 6 Release the retaining clips and detach the

following coolant hoses. Allow for coolant spillage as the hoses are detached (see illustrations):

a) All hoses at the thermostat housing. b) Bottom hose from the radiator to the

water pump.

c) Heater hoses at the bulkhead and water

pump.

d) Inlet manifold coolant supply hose (where

applicable).

7 Disconnect the fuel trap vacuum hose from the inlet manifold. 8 Disconnect the brake servo unit vacuum hose from the inlet manifold, by pushing the hose retainer in towards the manifold and simultaneously pulling free the hose (see

illustration). 9 Refer to the relevant Part of Chapter 4 for

details, and detach the accelerator cable. Where applicable, detach the choke cable from the carburettor. 10 Compress the quick-release couplings at the sides, and detach the fuel supply hose and return hose from the fuel pump, CFi unit or fuel rail (see illustration). Allow for fuel spillage as the hoses are disconnected, and plug the exposed ends to prevent further

spillage and the ingress of dirt. Position the hoses out of the way. 11 Note their locations and disconnect the wiring connectors from the following (see illustrations):

a) Coolant temperature gauge sender unit. b) The oil pressure switch. c) The radio earth lead. d) The cooling fan thermostatic switch. e) The DIS/E-DIS ignition coil. f) The crankshaft speed/position sensor. g) The engine coolant temperature sensor. h) The idle cut-off valve.

12 Disconnect the remaining wiring multiplugs from the engine sensors at the inlet manifold and from the oxygen sensor (where fitted) in the exhaust manifold or downpipe. 13 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the front of the car and support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). 14 Unscrew the retaining nuts, and detach the exhaust downpipe from the exhaust manifold. Remove the seal from the joint flange. 15 Refer to Chapter 5A for details, and remove the starter motor. 16 Undo the two retaining bolts, and remove the clutch lower cover plate. 17 Unscrew the retaining bolt, and detach the gearshift stabiliser from the transmission. 18 Unscrew and remove the engine/

Engine removal and overhaul procedures 2D•7

3.8 Detach the servo vacuum hose from the manifold

3.6b Disconnect the bottom hose (A) and the heater hose (B) from the water pump

3.6a Disconnect the overflow hose (A) and the top hose (B) from the thermostat

housing

3.11b Engine crankshaft position sensor and multi-plug

3.11a Wiring connections to the HCS engine

A Idle cut-off valve B DIS ignition coil C Engine coolant temperature sensor D Oil pressure switch

3.10 Fuel supply (A) and return (B) hose connections at the fuel pump

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Whenever you disconnect any vacuum lines, coolant or emissions hoses, wiring connectors and fuel lines, always label them clearly, so that they can be correctly reassembled. Masking tape and/or a touch-up paint applicator work well for marking items. Take instant photos, or sketch the locations of components and brackets.

Page 76

transmission flange attachment bolts (see illustration). 19 Check that the appropriate underside

attachments are disconnected and out of the way, then lower the vehicle to the ground. 20 Unbolt and remove the heat shield from the exhaust manifold. 21 Attach a suitable hoist to the engine. It is possible to fabricate lifting eyes to connect the hoist to the engine, but make sure that they are strong enough, and connect them to the inlet and exhaust manifold at diagonallyopposite ends of the engine. 22 With the hoist securely connected, take the weight of the engine. Unscrew and remove the right-hand engine mounting side bolt from under the right-hand wheel arch. Unscrew and remove the mounting retaining nut and washer from the suspension strut cup retaining plate, and the three bolts securing the mounting unit to the cylinder block. 23 Locate a jack under the transmission, and raise it to take the weight of the transmission. 24 Unscrew and remove the remaining engine-to-transmission retaining bolts on the upper flange. 25 Check around the engine to ensure that all of the relevant fixings and attachments are disconnected and out of the way for the removal. 26 Enlist the aid of an assistant, then move the engine sideways and away from the transmission, whilst simultaneously raising the transmission. When the engine is separated from the transmission, carefully guide it up and out of the engine compartment. Do not allow the weight of the engine to hang on the transmission input shaft at any point during the removal (or refitting) of the engine. When the engine sump is clear of the vehicle, swing the power unit out of the way, and lower it onto a trolley (if available). Unless a mobile hoist is being used, it will be necessary to move the vehicle rearwards and out of the way in order to allow the engine to be lowered for removal. In this instance, ensure that the weight of the transmission is well supported as the vehicle is moved. 27 While the engine is removed, check the mountings; renew them if they are worn or damaged. Similarly, check the condition of all coolant and vacuum hoses and pipes (see

Chapter 1); components that are normally hidden can now be checked properly, and should be renewed if there is any doubt at all about their condition. Also, take the opportunity to overhaul the clutch components (see Chapter 6). It is regarded by many as good working practice to renew the clutch assembly as a matter of course, whenever major engine overhaul work is carried out. Check also the condition of all components disturbed on removal, and renew any that are damaged or worn.

Refitting

28 Refitting is in general, a reversal of the removal procedure, but the following special points should be noted. 29 Before coupling the engine to the transmission, apply a thin smear of highmelting-point grease onto the transmission input shaft splines. If the clutch has been removed, ensure that the clutch disc is centralised, and disconnect the clutch cable from the release lever on the transmission casing. 30 Tighten all fixings to their recommended torque wrench settings. 31 Check that the mating faces are clean, and fit a new exhaust downpipe-to-manifold gasket and self-locking nuts when reconnecting this joint. 32 Ensure that all wiring connections are correctly and securely made. 33 Remove the plugs from the fuel lines before reconnecting them correctly and securely. 34 Reconnect and adjust the accelerator and choke cables as described in the relevant Part of Chapter 4. The refitting details for the air cleaner components are also given in that Chapter. 35 Renew any coolant hoses (and/or retaining clips) that are not in good condition. 36 Refer to Chapter 6 for details on reconnecting the clutch cable. 37 When the engine is fully refitted, check that the various hoses are connected, and then top-up the engine oil and coolant levels as described in Chapter 1 and “Weekly Checks”. 38 When engine refitting is completed, refer to Section 19 for the engine start-up procedures.

4 Engine/transmission -

removal and refitting (CVH and PTE engines)

Warning: Petrol is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when disconnecting

Note: Read through the entire Section, as well as reading the advice in Section 2, before beginning this procedure. The engine and transmission are removed as a unit, lowered to the ground and removed from underneath, then separated outside the vehicle.

Removal

1 On all fuel injection engines, refer to Chapter 4B, C or D as applicable and depressurise the fuel system. 2 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1). 3 Referring to Chapter 1 for details, drain the coolant and the engine oil. Refit the drain plug to the sump on completion. 4 Refer to Chapter 11 for details, and remove the bonnet. 5 Remove the air cleaner assembly and air inlet components as described in the relevant Part of Chapter 4. 6 Release the retaining clips and detach the coolant top hose, the heater hose and the radiator overflow hose from the thermostat housing. Disconnect the coolant hose from the inlet manifold, and the bottom hose from the water pump and/or the radiator (see illustrations). On 1.4 litre CFi fuel injection models, also disconnect the coolant hose from the injection unit. On EFi and SEFi fuel injection models, detach the heater hose Y-connector. Allow for coolant spillage as the hoses are detached. On turbocharged engines, disconnect the coolant return hose from the turbocharger connecting pipe.

2D•8 Engine removal and overhaul procedures

4.6b Heater coolant hoses and Y-connector on 1.6 litre EFi fuel injection models

4.6a Coolant hose connections to the thermostat (arrowed)

3.18 Engine-to-transmission flange attachment bolts (arrowed)

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7 Refer to the relevant Part of Chapter 4 for details, and disconnect the accelerator cable from the throttle linkage and support/adjuster bracket. Where applicable, also disconnect the choke cable. Position the cable(s) out of the way. 8 On carburettor models, disconnect the fuel supply hose from the fuel pump, and the return hose from the carburettor. 9 On CFi models, detach the fuel hose at the injector/pressure regulator unit, and the return line, by compressing the couplings whilst pulling the hoses free from their connections. On EFi and SEFi models, unscrew the union nut to detach the fuel line from the fuel rail; release the retaining clip to detach the return pipe from the pressure regulator. Plug the exposed ends of the hoses and connections, to prevent fuel spillage and the ingress of dirt. Position the hoses out of the way. 10 Press the clamp ring inwards, and simultaneously pull free the brake servo hose

from the inlet manifold. Position it out of the way. 11 On CFi and EFi models, detach the vacuum hose from the MAP sensor, and the hose between the carbon canister and the fuel injection unit (see illustration). 12 Note their connections and routings, and detach the following wiring connections, according to model (see illustrations):

a) Coolant temperature sender unit. b) Oil pressure switch. c) E-DIS ignition coil unit. or distributor. d) Coolant temperature sensor. e) Cooling fan thermostatic switch. f) Carburettor. g) Earth lead (radio). h) Reversing light switch (from transmission). i) Crankshaft position sensor. j) Earth leads from the transmission and

engine.

13 Disconnect the wiring at the following additional items specific to fuel injection models only.

a) Inlet air temperature sensor. b) Vehicle speed sensor. c) Throttle plate control motor (CFi

models). d) Throttle position sensor. e) Injector harness connector. f) Idle speed control valve (EFi and SEFi

models).

14 Unscrew the retaining bolt and detach the bracket locating the wiring and coolant hoses above the transmission.

15 Disconnect the speedometer drive cable from the transmission. 16 On manual transmission models, disconnect the clutch cable from the release lever at the transmission (see Chapter 6 for details). Position the cable out of the way. 17 On vehicles fitted with the anti-lock braking system, refer to Chapter 9 and release the left-hand modulator from its mounting bracket, without disconnecting the rigid brake pipes or return hose. Tie the modulator securely to the bulkhead. 18 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the front of the car and support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Allow sufficient clearance under the vehicle to withdraw the engine and transmission units from under the front end. 19 On XR2i models, refer to Chapter 10 and remove the front suspension crossmember. 20 Where applicable on catalytic converterequipped vehicles, release the multi-plug from the bracket and disconnect the wiring connector from the oxygen sensor in the exhaust downpipe. 21 Undo the three retaining bolts, detach the exhaust downpipe from the manifold, and collect the gasket from the flange joint. Now disconnect the exhaust downpipe from the rest of the system, and remove it from the vehicle. 22 Where fitted, undo the four retaining nuts and two bolts securing the front part of the exhaust heat shield to the floor, then remove the heat shield. 23 Refer to Chapter 5A and remove the alternator and starter motor. On models with power steering, refer to Chapter 10 and remove the power steering pump.

Manual transmission models

24 On 4-speed models, select 2nd gear; on

5-speed models, select 4th gear, to assist in correct adjustment of the gearchange during reassembly. If it is likely that the gear lever will be moved from this position before refitting, mark the relative position of the transmission shift rod and the selector shaft before separating them. Undo the clamp bolt, and then pull free and detach the shift rod from the selector shaft (see illustration).

Engine removal and overhaul procedures 2D•9

4.12b . . . the oil pressure switch . . .4.12a Disconnect the wiring at the

temperature gauge sender unit . . .

4.11 Vacuum hose to MAP sensor (A) and brake servo (B)

4.24 Manual transmission shift rod clamp bolt (A), stabiliser-to-transmission bolt (B)

and washer (C)

4.12c . . . and the crankshaft position sensor

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25 Unscrew the retaining bolt, and detach the shift rod stabiliser from the transmission. As it is detached, note the washer located between the stabiliser and the transmission. Tie the stabiliser and the shift rod up out of the way.

Automatic transmission models

26 Unclip and detach the wiring connector

from the starter inhibitor switch (on the transmission housing). 27 Referring to the relevant Part of Chapter 4 for details, unhook the accelerator (cam plate) cable from the carburettor or fuel injection unit (as applicable) at the transmission end of the cable. Undo the retaining bolt and detach the cable sheath bracket from the transmission. Detach the cam plate cable from the link. 28 Undo the two nuts from the selector cable bracket which connects it to the lever on the selector shaft. Disconnect the yoke from the lever on the selector shaft and the cable from the lever. 29 Unscrew the union nuts, and disconnect the oil cooler feed and return pipes from the transmission. Allow for a certain amount of spillage, and plug the connections to prevent the ingress of dirt.

All models

30 Unscrew the retaining nut and withdraw

the Torx-type clamp bolt securing the lower suspension arm to the spindle carrier on each side. 31 Refer to Chapter 10 for details, and detach the right-hand and left-hand track rod end balljoints from the spindle carriers. 32 On vehicles fitted with the anti-lock braking system, refer to Chapter 9 and release the right-hand modulator from its mounting bracket without disconnecting the rigid brake pipes or return hose. Tie the modulator securely to the bulkhead. Additionally, undo the three bolts securing the modulator bracket. 33 Insert a suitable lever between the righthand driveshaft inner joint and the transmission housing, and prise free the driveshaft from the transmission; be prepared for oil spillage from the transmission case through the vacated driveshaft aperture. As it is being prised free, simultaneously pull the roadwheel outwards on that side, to enable the driveshaft inboard end to separate from the transmission. Once it is free, suspend and support the driveshaft from the steering gear, to prevent unnecessary strain being placed on the driveshaft joints. 34 Insert a suitable plastic plug (or if available, an old driveshaft joint), into the transmission driveshaft aperture, to immobilise the gears of the differential unit. 35 Proceed as described above in paragraphs 33 and 34, and disconnect the left-hand driveshaft from the transmission. 36 Connect a suitable lift hoist and sling to the engine, connecting to the lifting eyes.

When securely connected, take the weight of the engine/transmission unit so that the tension is relieved from the mountings. 37 Undo the retaining bolts and nuts and detach the right-hand engine mounting from the vehicle body. 38 Undo the four bolts securing the transmission bearer to the underside of the vehicle body. The transmission bearer is removed with the engine/transmission assembly. 39 Unscrew the three retaining bolts, and remove the auxiliary drivebelt cover from under the crankshaft pulley. 40 The engine/transmission unit should now be ready for removal from the vehicle. Check that all of the associated connections and fittings are disconnected from the engine and transmission, and positioned out of the way. 41 Enlist the aid of an assistant to help steady and guide the power unit down through the engine compartment as it is removed. If available, position a suitable engine trolley or crawler board under the engine/transmission so that when lowered, the power unit can be withdrawn from the front end of the vehicle, and then moved to the area where it is to be cleaned and dismantled. On automatic transmission models, particular care must be taken not to damage the transmission fluid pan (sump) during the removal and subsequent refitting processes. 42 Carefully lower the engine and transmission unit, ensuring that no fittings become snagged. Detach the hoist and remove the power unit from under the vehicle. 43 Referring to the relevant Part of Chapter 7, separate the transmission from the engine. 44 While the engine/transmission is removed, check the mountings; renew them if they are worn or damaged. Similarly, check the condition of all coolant and vacuum hoses and pipes (see Chapter 1). Components that are normally hidden can now be checked properly, and should be renewed if there is any doubt at all about their condition. Where the vehicle is fitted with manual transmission, take the opportunity to inspect the clutch components (see Chapter 6). It is regarded by many as good working practice to renew the clutch assembly as a matter of course, whenever major engine overhaul work is carried out. Check also the condition of all components (such as the transmission oil seals) disturbed on removal, and renew any that are damaged or worn.

Refitting

45 Refitting is a reversal of removal, however note the following additional points:

a) Refer to the applicable Chapters and

Sections as for removal.

b) Fit new spring clips to the grooves in the

inboard end of the right- and left-hand driveshaft joints. Lubricate the splines with transmission oil prior to fitting.

c) Renew the exhaust flange gasket when

reconnecting the exhaust. Ensure that all wires are routed clear of the exhaust system and, on catalytic converter models, ensure that the heat shields are securely and correctly fitted.

d) Ensure that all earth lead connections are

clean and securely made.

e) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified

torque.

f) Fit a new oil filter, and refill the engine and

transmission with oil, with reference to Chapter 1.

g) Refill the cooling system with reference to

Chapter 1.

h) Refit the alternator and starter motor with

reference to Chapter 5A.

i) Where applicable, refit the power steering

pump with reference to Chapter 10.

46 When engine and transmission refitting is complete, refer to the procedures described in Section 19 before restarting the engine.

5 Engine/transmission -

removal and refitting (Zetec engines)

Warning: Petrol is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when disconnecting

Removal

1 Park the vehicle on firm, level ground, apply the handbrake firmly, and slacken the nuts securing both front roadwheels. 2 Depressurise the fuel system as described in Chapter 4D. 3 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1). 4 Place protective covers on the wings, then remove the bonnet (see Chapter 11). 5 Drain the cooling system and the engine oil (see Chapter 1). 6 Remove the air inlet components and the complete air cleaner assembly as described in Chapter 4D. 7 Equalise the pressure in the fuel tank by removing the filler cap, then release the fuel feed and return quick-release couplings, and pull the hoses off the fuel pipes. Plug or cap all open fittings.

2D•10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures

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8 Disconnect the accelerator cable from the throttle linkage as described in Chapter 4D. Secure the cable clear of the engine/transmission. 9 Releasing its wire clip, unplug the wiring connector from the power steering pressure switch (where fitted), then disconnect the earth cable from the engine lifting eye. Refit the bolt after disconnecting the cable. 10 Marking or labelling all components as they are disconnected, disconnect the vacuum hoses as follows:

a) From the rear of the inlet manifold. b) The braking system vacuum servo unit

hose - from the inlet manifold (see Chapter 9 for details).

c) While you are there, trace the vacuum line

from the pulse-air filter housing, and disconnect it from the pulse-air solenoid valve.

d) Secure all these hoses so that they won’t

get damaged as the engine/transmission is removed.

11 Unbolt the engine/transmission-to-body

earth lead from the transmission (see illustration). Disconnect the speedometer drive cable (see Chapter 12) and secure it clear of the engine/transmission. 12 Disconnect the earth strap at the top of the engine/transmission flange, and the adjacent bolt securing the wiring harness clip. 13 Where the vehicle is fitted with manual transmission, disconnect the clutch cable (see Chapter 6). 14 Marking or labelling all components as they are disconnected, disconnect the engine wiring connectors as follows (see illustrations):

a) The multi-plug from the E-DIS ignition

coil.

b) The radio interference suppressor from

the DIS ignition coil. c) The reversing light switch multi-plug. d) The engine main wiring loom multi-plug

behind the E-DIS ignition coil. e) The crankshaft speed/position sensor and

vehicle speed sensor multi-plugs. f) The oxygen sensor multi-plug.

15 Unbolt the exhaust manifold heat shield, and lift it clear. 16 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt (see Chapter 1). 17 Marking or labelling all components as they are disconnected and catching as much as possible of the escaping coolant in the drain tray, disconnect the cooling system hoses and pipes as follows:

a) The coolant hoses at the thermostat

housing.

b) The coolant hose at the metal cross pipe

lower connection.

c) The radiator top and bottom hoses.

18 Where applicable, detach the power steering pump pressure pipe clips, release the unions and disconnect the pump pressure and return lines. Collect the fluid in a suitable container, and plug the disconnected unions. 19 On vehicles fitted with the anti-lock braking system, refer to Chapter 9 and release the left-hand modulator from its mounting bracket, without disconnecting the rigid brake pipes or return hose. Tie the modulator securely to the bulkhead. 20 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the front of the car and support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove the front roadwheels. 21 Refer to Chapter 5 if necessary, and disconnect the wiring from the starter motor and alternator. 22 Disconnect the oil pressure switch wiring connector. 23 On automatic transmission models, disconnect the starter inhibitor switch wiring and disconnect the selector cable (see Chapter 7B). Secure the cable clear of the engine/transmission. 24 Where the vehicle is fitted with manual transmission, disconnect the gearchange linkage and transmission support rod from the rear of the transmission - make alignment marks as they are disconnected (see illustrations).

Engine removal and overhaul procedures 2D•11

5.14b . . . the radio interference suppressor . . .

5.14a Disconnect the wiring multi-plug from the ignition coil . . .

5.11 Unbolt the engine/transmission-tobody earth lead from the transmission

5.24b . . . and transmission support rod5.24a Disconnect the gearchange linkage . . .5.14c . . . and the reversing light switch

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25 On automatic transmission models, clean around the unions, then disconnect the fluid pipes from the transmission. Plug the openings in the transmission and the pipe unions after removal. 26 Refer to Chapter 10 and remove the front suspension crossmember. 27 Unscrew the nuts to disconnect the exhaust system front downpipe from the manifold. Undo the nuts securing the catalytic converter to the rear part of the exhaust system, and remove the converter and downpipe assembly. 28 On vehicles fitted with the anti-lock braking system, refer to Chapter 9 and release the right-hand modulator from its mounting bracket without disconnecting the rigid brake pipes or return hose. Tie the modulator securely to the bulkhead. Additionally, undo the three bolts securing the modulator bracket. 29 Disconnect both anti-roll bar links from their respective suspension struts, and both track rod end ball joints from their spindle carriers (see Chapter 10). 30 Unscrew the retaining nut and withdraw the Torx-type clamp bolt securing the lower suspension arm to the spindle carrier on each side. 31 Insert a suitable lever between the righthand driveshaft inner joint and the transmission housing, and prise free the driveshaft from the transmission; be prepared for oil spillage from the transmission case through the vacated driveshaft aperture. As it is being prised free, simultaneously pull the roadwheel outwards on that side to enable the driveshaft inboard end to separate from the transmission. Once it is free, suspend and support the driveshaft from the steering gear, to prevent unnecessary strain being placed on the driveshaft joints. 32 Insert a suitable plastic plug (or if available, an old driveshaft joint), into the transmission driveshaft aperture, to immobilise the gears of the differential unit. 33 Proceed as described above in paragraphs 31 and 32, and disconnect the left-hand driveshaft from the transmission. 34 Remove the oil filter, referring to Chapter 1 if necessary. 35 Connect a suitable lift hoist and sling to the engine, connecting to the lift eyes. When securely connected, take the weight of the engine/transmission unit so that the tension is relieved from the mountings. 36 Unbolt the engine rear right-hand mounting from the body (one bolt in the wheel arch, one nut in the engine compartment), then unbolt the engine front right-hand mounting from the alternator mounting bracket. Unbolt the transmission bearer from the underbody. 37 The engine/transmission unit should now be hanging on the hoist only, with all components which connect it to the rest of the vehicle disconnected or removed, and secured well clear of the unit. Make a final check that this is the case.

38 Lower the engine/transmission to the ground, and withdraw it from under the vehicle. 39 Referring to the relevant Part of Chapter 7, separate the transmission from the engine. 40 While the engine/transmission is removed, check the mountings; renew them if they are worn or damaged. Similarly, check the condition of all coolant and vacuum hoses and pipes (see Chapter 1); components that are normally hidden can now be checked properly, and should be renewed if there is any doubt at all about their condition. Where the vehicle is fitted with manual transmission, take the opportunity to overhaul the clutch components (see Chapter 6). It is regarded by many as good working practice to renew the clutch assembly as a matter of course, whenever major engine overhaul work is carried out. Check also the condition of all components (such as the transmission oil seals) disturbed on removal, and renew any that are damaged or worn.

Refitting

41 Refitting is a reversal of removal, however note the following additional points:

a) Refer to the applicable Chapters and

Sections as for removal.

b) Fit new spring clips to the grooves in the

inboard end of the right- and left-hand driveshaft joints. Lubricate the splines with transmission oil prior to fitting.

c) Renew the exhaust flange gaskets when

reconnecting the exhaust. Ensure that all wires are routed clear of the exhaust system, and that the heat shields are securely and correctly fitted.

d) Ensure that all earth lead connections are

clean and securely made.

e) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified

torque.

f) Fit a new oil filter, and refill the engine and

transmission with oil, with reference to Chapter 1.

g) Refill the cooling system with reference to

Chapter 1.

h) Bleed the power steering system with

reference to Chapter 10.

42 When engine and transmission refitting is complete, refer to the procedures described in Section 19 before restarting the engine.

6 Engine overhaul -

preliminary information

It is much easier to dismantle and work on the engine if it is mounted on a portable engine stand. These stands can often be hired from a tool hire shop. Before the engine is mounted on a stand, the flywheel/driveplate should be removed so that the stand bolts can be tightened into the end of the cylinder block/crankcase.

If a stand is not available, it is possible to dismantle the engine with it suitably

supported on a sturdy, workbench or on the floor. Be careful not to tip or drop the engine when working without a stand.

If you intend to obtain a reconditioned engine, all ancillaries must be removed first, to be transferred to the replacement engine (just as they will if you are doing a complete engine overhaul yourself). These components include the following:

a) Alternator/power steering pump and

mounting brackets.

b) DIS/E-DIS ignition coil unit (and mounting

bracket), distributor, HT leads and spark

plugs. c) The thermostat and housing cover. d) Carburettor/fuel injection system

components. e) Inlet and exhaust manifolds. f) Oil filter. g) Fuel pump. h) Engine mountings. i) Flywheel/driveplate. j) Water pump. Note: When removing the external components from the engine, pay close attention to details that may be helpful or important during refitting. Note the fitted positions of gaskets, seals, washers, bolts and other small items.

If you are obtaining a “short” engine (cylinder block/crankcase, crankshaft, pistons and connecting rods all assembled), then the cylinder head, timing chain/belt (together with tensioner, tensioner and idler pulleys and covers) sump and oil pump will have to be removed also.

If a complete overhaul is planned, the engine can be dismantled in the order given below, referring to Part A, B or C of this Chapter unless otherwise stated.

a) Inlet and exhaust manifolds. b) Timing chain/belt, tensioner and

sprockets. c) Cylinder head. d) Flywheel/driveplate. e) Sump. f) Oil pump. g) Pistons (with connecting rods). h) Crankshaft. i) Camshaft and tappets (HCS engines).

7 Cylinder head - dismantling

Note: New and reconditioned cylinder heads are available from the manufacturers, and from engine overhaul specialists. Due to the fact that some specialist tools are required for the dismantling and inspection procedures, and new components may not be readily available, it may be more practical and economical for the home mechanic to purchase a reconditioned head, rather than to dismantle, inspect and recondition the original head.

1 Remove the cylinder head as described in Part A, B or C of this Chapter (as applicable).

2D•12 Engine removal and overhaul procedures

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2 If not already done, remove the inlet and exhaust manifolds with reference to the relevant Part of Chapter 4. 3 Proceed as follows according to engine type.

HCS engines

4 Valve removal should commence with No 1 valve (nearest the timing chain end). 5 To remove the valve springs and valves from the cylinder head, a standard valve spring compressor will required. Fit the spring compressor to the first valve and spring to be removed. Take care not to damage the valve stem with the compressor, and do not overcompress the spring, or the valve stem may bend. When tightening the compressor, it may be found that the spring retainer does not release and the collets are then difficult to remove. In this instance, remove the compressor, then press a piece of tube (or a socket of suitable diameter) so that it does not interfere with the removal of the collets, against the retainer’s outer rim. Tap the tube (or socket) with a hammer to unsettle the components. 6 Refit the compressor, and wind it in to enable the collets to be extracted (see

illustration). 7 Loosen off the compressor, and remove the

retainer and spring. Withdraw the valve from the cylinder head (see illustrations).

8 Prise up and remove the valve stem seal. 9 Repeat the removal procedure with each of

the remaining seven valve assemblies in turn. As they are removed, keep the individual valves and their components together, and in their respective order of fitting, by placing them in a separate labelled bag (see illustration).

CVH and PTE engines

10 Remove the camshaft, rocker arms and tappets as described in Part B of this Chapter, being careful to store the hydraulic tappets as described. 11 Valve removal should commence with No 1 valve (nearest the timing belt end). 12 Using a standard valve spring compressor, compress the valve spring (and upper retainer) just enough to enable the split collets to be released from the groove in the top of the valve stem, then separate and extract the split collets from the valve. Do not compress the spring any further than is necessary, or the valve stem may bend. If the valve spring retainer does not release from the collets as the spring is compressed, remove the compressor, and position a piece of suitable tube over the end of the retainer, so that it does not impinge on the collets. Place a small block of wood under the valve head (with the head resting face down on the workbench), then tap the end of the tube with a hammer. Now refit the compressor tool, and compress the valve spring. The collets should release. 13 Extract the split collets, then slowly

unscrew, release and remove the compressor. 14 Withdraw the upper retainer and the valve spring from the valve stem, then remove the valve from the underside of the cylinder head. Use a suitable screwdriver or pliers to prise free and remove the valve stem oil seal from the guide (see illustration).

15 Remove the lower retainer. 16 Repeat the removal procedure with each

of the remaining valve assemblies in turn. As they are removed, keep the valves and their associated components together, and in the originally-installed order, by placing them in a separate labelled bag (see illustration 7.9).

Zetec engines

17 Remove the camshafts and hydraulic tappets as described in Part C of this Chapter, being careful to store the hydraulic tappets as described. 18 Using a valve spring compressor, compress each valve spring in turn until the split collets can be removed. A special valve spring compressor will be required, to reach into the deep wells in the cylinder head without risk of damaging the hydraulic tappet bores; such compressors are now widely available from most good motor accessory shops. Release the compressor, and lift off the spring upper seat and spring. 19 If, when the valve spring compressor is screwed down, the spring upper seat refuses to free and expose the split collets, gently tap the top of the tool, directly over the upper seat, with a light hammer. This will free the seat. 20 Withdraw the valve through the combustion chamber. If it binds in the guide (won’t pull through), push it back in, and deburr the area around the collet groove with a fine file or whetstone; take care not to mark the hydraulic tappet bores. 21 Ford recommend the use of their service tool 21-160 to extract the valve spring lower seat/stem oil seals; while this is almost indispensable if the seals are to be removed without risk of damage to the cylinder head, a serviceable substitute can be made from a strong spring of suitable size. Screw on the tool or spring so that it bites into the seal, then

Engine removal and overhaul procedures 2D•13

7.7b . . . followed by the valve7.7a Remove the valve spring retainer and

spring . . .

7.6 Compress the valve spring to remove the collets

7.14 Prise off the valve stem oil seal7.9 Use a labelled plastic bag to store and

identify valve components

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draw the seal off the valve guide (see

illustrations). 22 It is essential that the valves are kept

together with their collets, spring seats and springs, and in their correct sequence (unless they are so badly worn that they are to be renewed). If they are going to be kept and used again, place them in a labelled polythene bag or similar small container (see illus- tration 7.9). Note that No 1 valve is nearest to the timing belt end of the engine. 23 If the oil-retaining valve is to be removed (to flush out the cylinder head oil galleries thoroughly), seek the advice of a Ford dealer as to how it can be extracted; it may be that the only course of action involves destroying the valve as follows. Screw a selftapping screw into its ventilation hole, and use the screw to provide purchase with which the valve can be drawn out; a new valve must be purchased and pressed into place on reassembly (see illustration).

8 Cylinder head and valve

components - cleaning and

inspection

1 Thorough cleaning of the cylinder head and valve components, followed by a detailed inspection, will enable you to decide how much valve service work must be carried out during the engine overhaul. Note: If the

engine has been severely overheated, it is best to assume that the cylinder head is warped, and to check carefully for signs of this.

Cleaning

2 Scrape away all traces of old gasket material and sealing compound from the cylinder head. 3 Scrape away the carbon from the combustion chambers and ports, then wash the cylinder head thoroughly with paraffin or a suitable solvent. 4 Scrape off any heavy carbon deposits that may have formed on the valves, then use a power-operated wire brush to remove deposits from the valve heads and stems.

Inspection

Note: Be sure to perform all the following inspection procedures before concluding that the services of a machine shop or engine overhaul specialist are required. Make a list of all items that require attention.

Cylinder head

5 Inspect the head very carefully for cracks,

evidence of coolant leakage, and other damage. If cracks are found, a new cylinder head should be obtained. 6 Use a straight edge and feeler blade to check that the cylinder head gasket surface is not distorted (see illustration). If it is, it may be possible to re-surface it. 7 Examine the valve seats in each of the combustion chambers. If they are severely

pitted, cracked or burned, then they will need to be renewed or re-cut by an engine overhaul specialist. If they are only slightly pitted, this can be removed by grinding-in the valve heads and seats with fine valve-grinding compound, as described below. 8 If the valve guides are worn, indicated by a side-to-side motion of the valve, new guides must be fitted. Measure the diameter of the existing valve stems (see below) and the bore of the guides, then calculate the clearance, and compare the result with the specified value; if the clearance is excessive, renew the valves or guides as necessary. 9 The renewal of valve guides is best carried out by an engine overhaul specialist. 10 If the valve seats are to be re-cut, this must be done only after the guides have been renewed.

Valves

11 Examine the head of each valve for

pitting, burning, cracks and general wear, and check the valve stem for scoring and wear ridges. Rotate the valve, and check for any obvious indication that it is bent. Look for pits and excessive wear on the tip of each valve stem. Renew any valve that shows any such signs of wear or damage. 12 If the valve appears satisfactory at this stage, measure the valve stem diameter at several points, using a micrometer (see illustration). Any significant difference in the readings obtained indicates wear of the valve stem. Should any of these conditions be apparent, the valve(s) must be renewed. 13 If the valves are in satisfactory condition, they should be ground (lapped) into their respective seats, to ensure a smooth gastight seal. If the seat is only lightly pitted, or if it has been re-cut, fine grinding compound only should be used to produce the required finish. Coarse valve-grinding compound should not be used unless a seat is badly burned or deeply pitted; if this is the case, the cylinder head and valves should be inspected by an expert, to decide whether seat recutting, or even the renewal of the valve or seat insert, is required. 14 Valve grinding is carried out as follows. Place the cylinder head upside-down on a

2D•14 Engine removal and overhaul procedures

8.12 Measuring the diameter of a valve stem

8.6 Check the cylinder head gasket surfaces for warpage, in the planes

indicated (A to G)

7.23 Cylinder head oil-retaining valve (arrowed)

7.21b . . . can be replaced by home-made tool if suitable spring can be found

7.21a Ford service tool in use to remove valve spring lower seat/stem oil seals . . .

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bench, with a block of wood at each end to give clearance for the valve stems. 15 Smear a trace of (the appropriate grade of) valve-grinding compound on the seat face, and press a suction grinding tool onto the valve head. With a semi-rotary action, grind the valve head to its seat, lifting the valve occasionally to redistribute the grinding compound (see illustration). A light spring placed under the valve head will greatly ease this operation. 16 If coarse grinding compound is being used, work only until a dull, matt even surface is produced on both the valve seat and the valve, then wipe off the used compound, and repeat the process with fine compound. When a smooth unbroken ring of light grey matt finish is produced on both the valve and seat, the grinding operation is complete. Do not grind in the valves any further than absolutely necessary, or the seat will be prematurely sunk into the cylinder head. 17 When all the valves have been ground-in, carefully wash off all traces of grinding compound, using paraffin or a suitable solvent, before reassembly of the cylinder head.

Valve components

18 Examine the valve springs for signs of

damage and discolouration, and also measure their free length (see illustration). If possible, compare each of the existing springs with a new component. 19 Stand each spring on a flat surface, and check it for squareness. If any of the springs

are damaged, distorted, or have lost their tension, obtain a complete set of new springs. 20 Check the spring upper seats and collets for obvious wear and cracks. Any questionable parts should be renewed, as extensive damage will occur if they fail during engine operation. Any damaged or excessively-worn parts must be renewed; the valve spring lower seat/stem oil seals must be renewed as a matter of course whenever they are disturbed. 21 Check the rocker gear components and hydraulic tappets as described in earlier parts of this Chapter according to engine type.

9 Cylinder head - reassembly

1 Before reassembling the cylinder head, first ensure that it is perfectly clean, and that no traces of grinding paste are left in the head or on the valves and guides. Use compressed air, if available, to blow out all the oil holes and passages. 2 Commence reassembly of the cylinder head by lubricating the valve stems and guides with clean engine oil.

HCS engines

3 Insert the first valve into its guide. Wipe the oil from the top of the valve stem, then wind some insulation tape over the split collet location groove, to protect the new valve stem seal as it is fitted over the valve and into

position. As the seal is fitted, support the valve to prevent it from falling out; push the seal down the valve, and locate it flush to the valve guide. Press the seal down firmly and evenly using a suitable diameter tube or socket, and take care not to distort the seal as it is located. Check that the seal spring is correctly located to ensure that it seals correctly, then remove the tape from the valve stem (see illustrations). 4 Locate the valve spring and its retainer over the valve stem, and engage the valve spring compressor. Compress the spring and retainer just enough to allow the split collets to be inserted in the location groove in the valve stem. Holding the collets in position, slowly release and remove the valve spring compressor.

5 Repeat the operation on the remaining valves, ensuring that each valve is fitted in its appropriate location. 6 On completion, support the cylinder head on a suitable piece of wood, and lightly strike the end of each valve stem in turn with a plastic- or copper-faced hammer to fractionally open the valve and seat the valve components.

CVH and PTE engines

7 Working on one valve at a time, fit the lower retainer into position (see illustration). 8 Check for correct orientation, then fit the new oil seal into position over the guide. Drive

Engine removal and overhaul procedures 2D•15

9.3a Tape the end of the valve stem before fitting the valve stem seal

8.18 Checking the valve spring free length8.15 Grinding-in a valve seat

9.7 Fit the lower retainer9.3b Press the seal into position using a

suitable socket

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

A little grease applied to the collet groove will help retain them in position.

Page 84

or press the seal squarely into place, using a suitable tube or socket (see illustration). 9 To protect the seal lips from being damaged by the collet grooves in the valve stem as it is passed through the seal, wipe any oil from the stem at the top, and mask the split collet groove on the stem with insulating tape. Lubricate the lips of the valve stem seal, and insert the valve (see illustration). 10 Remove the tape from the grooved section of the valve stem, then locate the spring and the upper retainer over the valve. 11 Locate the valve spring compressor into position, and compress the spring and cup down the valve stem so that the collet’s groove is exposed above the upper retainer. Lightly grease the collet’s groove in the stem, (to retain the collets in position) then locate the split collets into the groove in the stem. Slowly release and remove the valve spring compressor. As the compressor is released, ensure that the collets remain fully seated in the groove, and the upper retainer rides up over them to secure them in position (see

illustration). 12 Repeat the above operations on the

remaining valves, ensuring that each valve assembly is returned to its original position, or where new valves have been fitted, onto the seat to which it was ground. 13 When all of the valves have been fitted, support the cylinder head on a wooden block, and using a plastic or copper-faced hammer, lightly tap the end of each valve stem in turn to seat the respective valve assemblies.

14 Refit the camshaft, tappets and rocker arms to the cylinder head as described in Part B of this Chapter.

Zetec engines

15 Beginning at one end of the head, lubricate and install the first valve. Apply molybdenum disulphide-based grease or clean engine oil to the valve stem, and refit the valve. Where the original valves are being reused, ensure that each is refitted in its original guide. If new valves are being fitted, insert them into the locations to which they have been ground. 16 Fit the plastic protector supplied with new valve spring lower seat/stem oil seals to the end of the valve stem, then put the new seal squarely on top of the guide, and leave it there; the action of refitting the valve spring presses the lower seat/stem oil seal into place

(see illustration). 17 Refit the valve spring and upper seat. 18 Compress the spring with a valve spring

compressor, and carefully install the collets in the stem groove. Apply a small dab of grease to each collet to hold it in place if necessary. Slowly release the compressor, and make sure the collets seat properly. 19 When the valve is installed, place the cylinder head flat on the bench and, using a hammer and interposed block of wood, tap the end of the valve stem gently, to settle the components. 20 Repeat the procedure for the remaining valves. Be sure to return the components to

their original locations - don’t mix them up! 21 Refit the hydraulic tappets as described in Part C of this Chapter.

10 Camshaft and tappets -

removal, inspection and refitting (HCS engines)

Removal

1 Refer to the applicable Sections in Part A of this Chapter and remove the cylinder head, timing chain and camshaft sprocket, and the sump. 2 Invert the engine so that it is supported on its cylinder head face (on a clean work area). This is necessary to make all of the tappets slide to the top of their stroke, thus allowing the camshaft to be withdrawn. Rotate the camshaft through a full turn, to ensure that all of the tappets slide up their bores, clear of the camshaft. 3 Before removing the camshaft, check its endfloat using a dial gauge mounted on the front face of the engine or feeler gauges. Pull the camshaft fully towards the front (timing chain) end of the engine, then insert feeler gauges between the camshaft sprocket flange and the camshaft thrust plate to assess the endfloat clearance (see illustration). The camshaft endfloat must be as specified. 4 Undo the two retaining bolts, and remove the camshaft thrust plate. 5 Carefully withdraw the camshaft from the front end of the engine (see illustration).

2D•16 Engine removal and overhaul procedures

10.5 Withdrawing the camshaft from the front of the engine

10.3 Checking the camshaft endfloat

9.16 Valve spring pressure is sufficient to seat lower seat/stem oil seals on

reassembly

9.11 Insert the split collets into the groove in the valve stem

9.9 Insert the valve into its guide9.8 Locate the seal, and tap it into position

over the guide

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6 Extract each tappet in turn. Keep them in order of fitting by inserting them in a card with eight holes in it, numbered 1 to 8 (from the timing chain end of the engine). A valve grinding suction tool will be found to be useful for the removal of tappets (see illustration).

Inspection

7 Examine the camshaft bearing journals and lobes for damage or excessive wear. If evident, the camshaft must be renewed. 8 Examine the camshaft bearing internal surfaces for signs of damage or excessive wear. If evident, the bearings must be renewed by a Ford dealer. 9 If not carried out on removal, check the camshaft endfloat as described in paragraph 3. If the endfloat is exceeds the specified tolerance, renew the thrust plate. 10 It is seldom that the tappets wear excessively in their bores, but it is likely that after a high mileage, the cam lobe contact surfaces will show signs of depression or grooving. 11 Where this condition is evident, renew the tappets. Grinding out the grooves and wear marks will reduce the thickness of the surface hardening, and will accelerate further wear.

Refitting

12 To refit the tappets and the camshaft, it is essential that the crankcase is inverted. 13 Lubricate their bores and the tappets. Insert each tappet fully into its original bore in the cylinder block. 14 Lubricate the camshaft bearings, camshaft and thrust plate, then insert the camshaft into the crankcase from the timing case end. 15 Fit the thrust plate and tighten the retaining bolts to the specified torque setting (see illustration). Check that the camshaft is able to rotate freely, and that the endfloat is as specified.

11 Piston/connecting rod

assemblies - removal and

inspection

Removal

HCS engines

1 Refer to Part A of this Chapter and remove

the cylinder head and sump, then remove the oil pick-up pipe and strainer. 2 Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley, so that the crankshaft can be rotated. Check that the connecting rod big-end caps have adjacent matching numbers facing towards the camshaft side of the engine. If no marks can be seen, make your own before disturbing any of the components, so that you can be certain of refitting each piston/connecting rod assembly the right way round, to its correct (original) bore, with the cap also the right way round.

CVH and PTE engines

3 Refer to Part B of this Chapter and remove

the cylinder head and sump, then remove the oil pick-up pipe and strainer. 4 Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley, so that the crankshaft can be rotated. Check that the connecting rods have identification numbers - these should be found on the exhaust side of the big-ends. No 1 assembly is at the timing belt end of the engine. If no marks can be seen, make your own before disturbing any of the components, so that you can be certain of refitting each piston/ connecting rod assembly the right way round, to its correct (original) bore, with the cap also the right way round.

Zetec engines

5 Refer to Part C of this Chapter and remove

the cylinder head and sump. 6 Undo the screws securing the oil pump pick-up/strainer pipe to the pump, then unscrew the four nuts, and withdraw the oil pump pick-up/strainer pipe and oil baffle (see

illustration). 7 Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley, so

that the crankshaft can be rotated. Note that each piston/connecting rod assembly can be identified by its cylinder number (counting from the timing belt end of the engine) etched into the flat-machined surface of both the connecting rod and its cap. The numbers are visible from the front (exhaust side) of the engine (see illustration). Furthermore, each

piston has an arrow stamped into its crown, pointing towards the timing belt end of the engine. If no marks can be seen, make your own before disturbing any of the components, so that you can be certain of refitting each piston/connecting rod assembly the right way round, to its correct (original) bore, with the cap also the right way round.

All engines

8 Use your fingernail to feel if a ridge has

formed at the upper limit of ring travel (about a quarter-inch down from the top of each cylinder). If carbon deposits or cylinder wear have produced ridges, they must be completely removed with a special tool. Follow the tool manufacturer’s instructions provided. Failure to remove the ridges before attempting to remove the piston/connecting rod assemblies may result in piston ring breakage. 9 Slacken each of the big-end bearing cap bolts half a turn at a time, until they can be removed by hand. Remove the No 1 cap and bearing shell. Don’t drop the shell out of the cap. 10 Remove the upper bearing shell, and push the connecting rod/piston assembly out through the top of the engine. Use a wooden hammer handle to push on the connecting rod’s bearing recess. If resistance is felt, double-check that all of the ridge was removed from the cylinder. 11 Repeat the procedure for the remaining cylinders.

Engine removal and overhaul procedures 2D•17

10.15 Refitting the camshaft thrust plate10.6 Tappet withdrawal using a valve

grinding tool suction cup

11.7 Each connecting rod and big-end bearing cap will have a flat-machined

surface with the cylinder number etched in it

11.6 Removing the oil baffle to provide access to crankshaft and bearings

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12 After removal, reassemble the big-end bearing caps and shells on their respective connecting rods, and refit the bolts fingertight. Leaving the old shells in place until reassembly will help prevent the bearing recesses from being accidentally nicked or gouged. New shells should be used on reassembly.

Inspection

13 Before the inspection process can begin, the piston/connecting rod assemblies must be cleaned, and the original piston rings removed from the pistons. 14 Carefully expand the old rings over the top of the pistons. The use of two or three old feeler blades will be helpful in preventing the rings dropping into empty grooves (see illustration). Be careful not to scratch the piston with the ends of the ring. The rings are brittle, and will snap if they are spread too far. They are also very sharp - protect your hands and fingers. Note that the third ring may incorporate an expander. Always remove the rings from the top of the piston. Keep each set of rings with its piston if the old rings are to be re-used. 15 Scrape away all traces of carbon from the top of the piston. A hand-held wire brush (or a piece of fine emery cloth) can be used, once the majority of the deposits have been scraped away. 16 Remove the carbon from the ring grooves in the piston using an old ring. Break the ring in half to do this (be careful not to cut your fingers - piston rings are sharp). Be careful to remove only the carbon deposits - do not remove any metal, and do not nick or scratch the sides of the ring grooves. 17 Once the deposits have been removed, clean the piston/connecting rod assembly with paraffin or a suitable solvent, and dry thoroughly. Make sure that the oil return holes in the ring grooves are clear. 18 If the pistons and cylinder liners/bores are not damaged or worn excessively, the original pistons can be refitted. Normal piston wear shows up as even vertical wear on the piston thrust surfaces, and slight looseness of the top ring in its groove. New piston rings should always be used when the engine is reassembled.

19 Carefully inspect each piston for cracks around the skirt, around the gudgeon pin holes, and at the piston ring “lands” (between the ring grooves). 20 Look for scoring and scuffing on the piston skirt, holes in the piston crown, and burned areas at the edge of the crown. If the skirt is scored or scuffed, the engine may have been suffering from overheating, and/or abnormal combustion which caused excessively high operating temperatures. The cooling and lubrication systems should be checked thoroughly. Scorch marks on the sides of the pistons show that blow-by has occurred. A hole in the piston crown, or burned areas at the edge of the piston crown, indicates that abnormal combustion (preignition, knocking, or detonation) has been occurring. If any of the above problems exist, the causes must be investigated and corrected, or the damage will occur again. The causes may include incorrect ignition timing, or a carburettor or fuel injection system fault. 21 Corrosion of the piston, in the form of pitting, indicates that coolant has been leaking into the combustion chamber and/or the crankcase. Again, the cause must be corrected, or the problem may persist in the rebuilt engine. 22 Check the piston-to-rod clearance by twisting the piston and rod in opposite directions. Any noticeable play indicates excessive wear, which must be corrected. The piston/connecting rod assemblies should be taken to a Ford dealer or engine reconditioning specialist to have the pistons, gudgeon pins and rods checked, and new components fitted as required. 23 Don’t attempt to separate the pistons from the connecting rods (even if non-genuine replacements are found elsewhere). This is a task for a Ford dealer or similar engine reconditioning specialist, due to the special heating equipment, press, mandrels and supports required to do the job. If the piston/connecting rod assemblies do require this sort of work, have the connecting rods checked for bend and twist, since only such engine repair specialists will have the facilities for this purpose.

24 Check the connecting rods for cracks and other damage. Also on CVH engines, check that the oilway in the base of the connecting rod is clear by probing with a piece of wire (see illustration). Temporarily remove the big-end bearing caps and the old bearing shells, wipe clean the rod and cap bearing recesses, and inspect them for nicks, gouges and scratches. After checking the rods, replace the old shells, slip the caps into place, and tighten the bolts finger-tight.

12 Crankshaft -

removal and inspection

Removal

Note: The crankshaft can be removed only after the engine has been removed from the vehicle. It is assumed that the transmission, flywheel/driveplate, timing belt/chain, cylinder head, sump, oil pump pick-up/strainer, oil baffle, oil pump, and piston/connecting rod assemblies, have already been removed. The crankshaft left-hand oil seal carrier/housing must be unbolted from the cylinder block/crankcase before proceeding with crankshaft removal.

1 Before the crankshaft is removed, check the endfloat. Mount a DTI (Dial Test Indicator, or dial gauge) with the stem in line with the crankshaft and just touching the crankshaft

(see illustration). 2 Push the crankshaft fully away from the

gauge, and zero it. Next, lever the crankshaft towards the gauge as far as possible, and check the reading obtained. The distance that the crankshaft moved is its endfloat; if it is greater than specified, check the crankshaft thrust surfaces for wear. If no wear is evident, new thrustwashers should correct the endfloat. 3 If no dial gauge is available, feeler gauges can be used. Gently lever or push the crankshaft all the way towards the right-hand end of the engine. Slip feeler gauges between the crankshaft and the main bearing incorporating the thrustwashers to determine the clearance.

2D•18 Engine removal and overhaul procedures

12.1 Checking crankshaft endfloat with a dial gauge

11.24 Check that the connecting rod oilway on CVH engines is clear

11.14 Using feeler gauge blades to remove piston rings

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HCS engines

4 Check that the main bearing caps have

marks to indicate their respective fitted positions in the block. They also have arrow marks pointing towards the timing chain cover end of the engine to indicate correct orientation (see illustration). 5 Unscrew the retaining bolts, and remove the main bearing caps. If the caps are reluctant to separate from the block face, lightly tap them free using a plastic- or copper-faced hammer. If the bearing shells are likely to be used again, keep them with their bearing caps for safekeeping. However, unless the engine is known to be of low mileage, it is recommended that they be renewed. 6 Lift the crankshaft out from the crankcase, then extract the upper bearing shells and side thrustwashers. Keep them with their respective caps for correct repositioning if they are to be used again. 7 Remove the crankshaft oil seals from the timing cover and the rear oil seal housing.

CVH and PTE engines

8 Check that each main bearing cap is

numerically marked for position. Each cap should also have an arrow marking to indicate its direction of fitting (arrow points to the timing belt end). 9 Unscrew the retaining bolts, and remove the main bearing caps. As they are removed, keep each bearing shell with its cap (in case they are to used again). Note that the bearing shells in the main bearing caps are plain (no groove). It is recommended that the shells be renewed, unless the engine is known to be of low mileage.

10 Lift out the crankshaft from the crankcase. 11 Remove each bearing shell in turn from

the crankcase, and keep them in order of fitting. Note that the upper shell halves are grooved. Also remove the semi-circular thrustwasher from each side of the central main bearing web, and keep them in their order of fitting.

Zetec engines

12 Check the main bearing caps, to see if

they are marked to indicate their locations (see illustration). They should be numbered consecutively from the timing belt end of the engine - if not, mark them with numberstamping dies or a centre-punch. The caps will also have an embossed arrow pointing to the timing belt end of the engine. Noting the different fasteners (for the oil baffle nuts) used on caps 2 and 4, slacken the cap bolts a quarter-turn at a time each, starting with the left- and right-hand end caps and working toward the centre, until they can be removed by hand. 13 Gently tap the caps with a soft-faced hammer, then separate them from the cylinder block/crankcase. If necessary, use the bolts as levers to remove the caps. Try not to drop the bearing shells if they come out with the caps. 14 Carefully lift the crankshaft out of the engine. 15 Remove each bearing shell in turn from the cylinder block/crankcase, and keep them in order of fitting.

Inspection

16 Clean the crankshaft, and dry it with compressed air if available.

Warning: Wear eye protection when using compressed air! Be sure to clean the oil holes with a pipe cleaner or similar probe.

17 Check the main and crankpin (big-end) bearing journals for uneven wear, scoring, pitting and cracking. 18 Big-end bearing wear is accompanied by distinct metallic knocking when the engine is running (particularly noticeable when the engine is pulling from low speed) and some loss of oil pressure. 19 Main bearing wear is accompanied by severe engine vibration and rumble - getting progressively worse as engine speed increases - and again by loss of oil pressure. 20 Check the bearing journal for roughness by running a finger lightly over the bearing surface. Any roughness (which will be accompanied by obvious bearing wear) indicates that the crankshaft requires regrinding (where possible) or renewal.

21 Remove all burrs from the crankshaft oil holes with a stone, file or scraper. 22 Using a micrometer, measure the diameter of the main bearing and crankpin (big-end) journals, and compare the results with the Specifications at the beginning of this Chapter (see illustration). 23 By measuring the diameter at a number of points around each journal’s circumference, you will be able to determine whether or not the journal is out-of-round. Take the measurement at each end of the journal, near the webs, to determine if the journal is tapered. 24 If the crankshaft journals are damaged, tapered, out-of-round, or worn beyond the limits specified in this Chapter, the crankshaft must be taken to an engine overhaul specialist, who will regrind it, and who can supply the necessary undersize bearing shells. 25 Check the oil seal journals at each end of the crankshaft for wear and damage. If either seal has worn an excessive groove in its journal, consult an engine overhaul specialist, who will be able to advise whether a repair is possible, or whether a new crankshaft is necessary.

13 Cylinder block/crankcase -

cleaning and inspection

Cleaning

1 Prior to cleaning, remove all external components and senders. On HCS engines, make sure that the camshaft and tappets are removed before carrying out thorough cleaning of the block. On the CVH and PTE engines, remove the engine ventilation cap from the recess in the rear corner of the cylinder block and if still fitted, undo the retaining screw and withdraw the engine speed sensor from the bellhousing face. On Zetec engines, unbolt the piston-cooling oil jets or blanking plugs (as applicable); note that Ford state that the piston-cooling oil jets (where fitted) must be renewed whenever the

Engine removal and overhaul procedures 2D•19

12.22 Measure the diameter of each

crankshaft journal at several points, to

detect taper and out-of-round conditions

12.12 Crankshaft main bearing cap arrows point to timing belt end of engine (A), and

bearing numbers (B) are consecutive from

timing belt end

12.4 Connecting rod big-end bearing cap and main bearing cap markings

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engine is dismantled for full overhaul (see

illustrations). 2 Remove all oil gallery plugs (where fitted).

The plugs are usually very tight - they may have to be drilled out, and the holes retapped. Use new plugs when the engine is reassembled. Drill a small hole in the centre of each core plug, and pull them out with a car bodywork dent puller.

Caution: The core plugs (also known as freeze or soft plugs) may be difficult or impossible to retrieve if they are driven into the block coolant passages.

3 If any of the castings are extremely dirty, all should be steam-cleaned. 4 After the castings are returned from steamcleaning, clean all oil holes and oil galleries one more time. Flush all internal passages with warm water until the water runs clear, then dry thoroughly, and apply a light film of oil to all machined surfaces, to prevent rusting. If you have access to compressed air, use it to speed the drying process, and to blow out all the oil holes and galleries.

Warning: Wear eye protection when using compressed air!

5 If the castings are not very dirty, you can do an adequate cleaning job with hot soapy water (as hot as you can stand!) and a stiff brush. Take plenty of time, and do a thorough job. Regardless of the cleaning method used, be sure to clean all oil holes and galleries very

thoroughly, and to dry all components completely; protect the machined surfaces as described above, to prevent rusting. 6 All threaded holes must be clean and dry, to ensure accurate torque readings during reassembly; now is also a good time to clean and check the threads of all principal bolts however, note that some, such as the cylinder head and flywheel/driveplate bolts, are to be renewed as a matter of course whenever they are disturbed. Run the proper-size tap into each of the holes, to remove rust, corrosion, thread sealant or sludge, and to restore damaged threads (see illustration). If possible, use compressed air to clear the holes of debris produced by this operation; a good alternative is to inject aerosol-applied water-dispersant lubricant into each hole, using the long spout usually supplied.

Warning: Wear eye protection when cleaning out these holes in this way, and be sure to dry out any excess liquid left in the holes.

7 When all inspection and repair procedures are complete (see below) and the block is ready for reassembly, apply suitable sealant to the new oil gallery plugs, and insert them into the holes in the block. Tighten them securely. After coating the sealing surfaces of the new core plugs with suitable sealant, install them in the cylinder block/crankcase. Make sure they are driven in straight and

seated properly, or leakage could result. Special tools are available for this purpose, but a large socket with an outside diameter that will just slip into the core plug, used with an extension and hammer, will work just as well. 8 On Zetec engines, refit the blanking plugs or (new) piston-cooling oil jets (as applicable), tightening their Torx screws to the torque wrench setting specified. On all engines, refit all other external components removed, referring to the relevant Chapter of this manual for further details where required. Refit the main bearing caps, and tighten the bolts finger-tight. 9 If the engine is not going to be reassembled right away, cover it with a large plastic bag to keep it clean; protect the machined surfaces as described above, to prevent rusting.

Inspection

10 Visually check the castings for cracks and corrosion. Look for stripped threads in the threaded holes. If there has been any history of internal coolant leakage, it may be worthwhile having an engine overhaul specialist check the cylinder block/crankcase for cracks with special equipment. If defects are found, have them repaired, if possible, or renew the assembly. 11 Check each cylinder bore for scuffing and scoring. 12 The cylinder bores must be measured with all the crankshaft main bearing caps bolted in place (without the crankshaft and bearing shells), and tightened to the specified torque wrench settings. Measure the diameter of each cylinder at the top (just under the ridge area), centre and bottom of the cylinder bore, parallel to the crankshaft axis. Next, measure each cylinder’s diameter at the same three locations across the crankshaft axis (see illustration). Note the measurements obtained. 13 Measure the piston diameter at rightangles to the gudgeon pin axis, just above the bottom of the skirt; again, note the results

(see illustration). 14 If it is wished to obtain the piston-to-bore

clearance, measure the bore and piston skirt as described above, and subtract the skirt

2D•20 Engine removal and overhaul procedures

13.13 Measure the piston skirt diameter at right-angles to the gudgeon pin axis, just

above the base of the skirt

13.12 Measure the diameter of each

cylinder just under the wear ridge (A), at

the centre (B) and at the bottom (C)

13.6 All bolt holes in the block should be cleaned and restored with a tap

13.1b . . . but note that piston-cooling oil jets (where fitted) must be renewed

whenever engine is overhauled - Zetec

engines

13.1a Unbolt blanking plugs (where fitted) to clean out oilways . . .

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diameter from the bore measurement. If the precision measuring tools shown are not available, the condition of the pistons and bores can be assessed, though not quite as accurately, by using feeler gauges as follows. Select a feeler gauge of thickness equal to the specified piston-to-bore clearance, and slip it into the cylinder along with the matching piston. The piston must be positioned exactly as it normally would be. The feeler gauge must be between the piston and cylinder on one of the thrust faces (at right-angles to the gudgeon pin bore). The piston should slip through the cylinder (with the feeler gauge in place) with moderate pressure; if it falls through or slides through easily, the clearance is excessive, and a new piston will be required. If the piston binds at the lower end of the cylinder, and is loose toward the top, the cylinder is tapered. If tight spots are encountered as the piston/feeler gauge is rotated in the cylinder, the cylinder is out-of-round (oval). 15 Repeat these procedures for the remaining pistons and cylinder bores. 16 Compare the results with the Specifications at the beginning of this Chapter; if any measurement is beyond the dimensions specified for that class (check the piston crown marking to establish the class of piston fitted), or if any bore measurement is significantly different from the others (indicating that the bore is tapered or oval), the piston or bore is excessively-worn. 17 Worn pistons must be renewed; on some engines, the pistons are available as Ford replacement parts only as part of the complete piston/connecting rod assembly. See a Ford dealer or engine reconditioning specialist for advice. 18 If any of the cylinder bores are badly scuffed or scored, or if they are excessivelyworn, out-of-round or tapered, the usual course of action would be to have the cylinder block/crankcase rebored, and to fit new, oversized, pistons on reassembly. See a Ford dealer or engine reconditioning specialist for advice. 19 If the bores are in reasonably good condition and not excessively-worn, then it may only be necessary to renew the piston rings. 20 If this is the case, the bores should be honed, to allow the new rings to bed in correctly and provide the best possible seal. Honing is an operation that will be carried out for you by an engine reconditioning specialist. 21 After all the machining operations have been carried out, the entire block/crankcase must be washed very thoroughly with warm soapy water to remove all traces of abrasive grit produced during the machining operations. When completely clean, rinse it thoroughly and dry it, then lightly oil all exposed machined surfaces to prevent rusting. 22 The cylinder block/crankcase should now be completely clean and dry, with all

components checked for wear or damage, and repaired or overhauled as necessary. Refit as many ancillary components as possible, for safekeeping. If reassembly is not to start immediately, cover the block with a large plastic bag to keep it clean.

14 Main and big-end bearings -

inspection

1 Even though the main and big-end bearing shells should be renewed during the engine overhaul, the old shells should be retained for close examination, as they may reveal valuable information about the condition of the engine (see illustration). 2 Bearing failure occurs because of lack of lubrication, the presence of dirt or other foreign particles, overloading the engine, and corrosion. Regardless of the cause of bearing failure, it must be corrected before the engine is reassembled, to prevent it from happening again. 3 When examining the bearing shells, remove them from the cylinder block/crankcase and main bearing caps, and from the connecting rods and the big-end bearing caps, then lay them out on a clean surface in the same general position as their location in the engine. This will enable you to match any bearing problems with the corresponding crankshaft journal. Do not touch any shell’s bearing surface with your fingers while checking it, or the delicate surface may be scratched. 4 Dirt or other foreign matter gets into the engine in a variety of ways. It may be left in the engine during assembly, or it may pass through filters or the crankcase ventilation system. It may get into the oil, and from there into the bearings. Metal chips from machining operations and normal engine wear are often present. Abrasives are sometimes left in engine components after reconditioning, especially when parts are not thoroughly cleaned using the proper cleaning methods. Whatever the source, these foreign objects often end up embedded in the soft bearing material, and are easily recognised. Large particles will not embed in the material, and will score or gouge the shell and journal. The best prevention for this cause of bearing failure is to clean all parts thoroughly, and to keep everything spotlessly-clean during engine assembly. Frequent and regular engine oil and filter changes are also recommended. 5 Lack of lubrication (or lubrication breakdown) has a number of inter-related causes. Excessive heat (which thins the oil), overloading (which squeezes the oil from the bearing face) and oil leakage (from excessive bearing clearances, worn oil pump or high engine speeds) all contribute to lubrication breakdown. Blocked oil passages, which usually are the result of misaligned oil holes in a bearing shell, will also starve a

bearing of oil, and destroy it. When lack of lubrication is the cause of bearing failure, the bearing material is wiped or extruded from the shell’s steel backing. Temperatures may increase to the point where the steel backing turns blue from overheating. 6 Driving habits can have a definite effect on bearing life. Full-throttle, low-speed operation (labouring the engine) puts very high loads on bearings, which tends to squeeze out the oil film. These loads cause the shells to flex, which produces fine cracks in the bearing face (fatigue failure). Eventually, the bearing material will loosen in pieces, and tear away from the steel backing. 7 Short-distance driving leads to corrosion of bearings, because insufficient engine heat is produced to drive off condensed water and corrosive gases. These products collect in the engine oil, forming acid and sludge. As the oil is carried to the engine bearings, the acid attacks and corrodes the bearing material. 8 Incorrect shell refitting during engine assembly will lead to bearing failure as well. Tight-fitting shells leave insufficient bearing running clearance, and will result in oil starvation. Dirt or foreign particles trapped behind a bearing shell result in high spots on the bearing, which lead to failure. 9 Do not touch any shell’s bearing surface with your fingers during reassembly; there is a risk of scratching the delicate surface, or of depositing particles of dirt on it.

15 Engine overhaul -

reassembly sequence

1 Before reassembly begins ensure that all new parts have been obtained and that all necessary tools are available. Read through the entire procedure to familiarise yourself with the work involved, and to ensure that all items

Engine removal and overhaul procedures 2D•21

14.1 Typical bearing failures

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necessary for reassembly of the engine are at hand. In addition to all normal tools and materials, jointing and thread locking compound will be needed during engine reassembly. For general-purpose applications, it is recommended that Loctite 275 setting sealer or Hylomar PL32M non-setting sealer be used for joints where required, and Loctite 270 for stud and bolt thread-locking. For specific applications on Zetec engines, Hylosil 102 for the cylinder block/crankcaseto-sump/oil pump/oil seal carrier joints, and Loctite 518 for the camshaft right-hand bearing caps should be used. These are recommended by, and obtained from, Ford dealers. In all other cases, provided the relevant mating surfaces are clean and flat, new gaskets will be sufficient to ensure joints are oil-tight. Do not use any kind of siliconebased sealant on any part of the fuel system or inlet manifold, and never use exhaust sealants upstream of the catalytic converter. 2 In order to save time and avoid problems, engine reassembly can be carried out in the following order (as applicable).

a) Engine ventilation cap (CVH and

PTE engines). b) Tappets and camshaft (HCS engines). c) Crankshaft and main bearings. d) Pistons and connecting rods. e) Oil pump. f) Sump. g) Flywheel/driveplate. h) Cylinder head. i) Timing sprockets and chain/belt. j) Engine external components.

3 Ensure that everything is clean prior to reassembly. As mentioned previously, dirt and metal particles can quickly destroy bearings and result in major engine damage. Use clean engine oil to lubricate during reassembly.

16 Piston rings - refitting

1 Before installing new piston rings, check the end gaps. Lay out each piston set with a piston/connecting rod assembly, and keep

them together as a matched set from now on. 2 Insert the top compression ring into the first cylinder, and square it up with the cylinder walls by pushing it in with the top of the piston. The ring should be near the bottom of the cylinder, at the lower limit of ring travel. 3 To measure the end gap, slip feeler gauges between the ends of the ring, until a gauge equal to the gap width is found. The feeler gauge should slide between the ring ends with a slight amount of drag. Compare the measurement to the value given in the Specifications in this Chapter; if the gap is larger or smaller than specified, double-check to make sure you have the correct rings before proceeding. If you are assessing the condition of used rings, have the cylinder bores checked and measured by a Ford dealer or similar engine reconditioning specialist, so that you can be sure of exactly which component is worn, and seek advice as to the best course of action to take. 4 If the end gap is still too small, it must be opened up by careful filing of the ring ends using a fine file. If it is too large, this is not as serious, unless the specified limit is exceeded, in which case very careful checking is required of the dimensions of all components, as well as of the new parts. 5 Repeat the procedure for each ring that will be installed in the first cylinder, and for each ring in the remaining cylinders. Remember to keep rings, pistons and cylinders matched up. 6 Refit the piston rings as follows. Where the original rings are being refitted, use the marks or notes made on removal, to ensure that each ring is refitted to its original groove and the same way up. New rings generally have their top surfaces identified by markings (often an indication of size, such as “STD”, or the word “TOP”) - the rings must be fitted with such markings uppermost (see illustration).

Note: Always follow the instructions printed on the ring package or box - different manufacturers may require different approaches. Do not mix up the top and second compression rings, as they usually have different cross-sections.

7 The oil control ring (lowest one on the piston) is usually installed first. It is composed of three separate elements. Slip the spacer/expander into the groove. If an anti-rotation tang is used, make sure it is inserted into the drilled hole in the ring groove. Next, install the lower side rail. Don’t use a piston ring installation tool on the oil ring side rails, as they may be damaged. Instead, place one end of the side rail into the groove between the spacer/expander and the ring land, hold it firmly in place, and slide a finger around the piston while pushing the rail into the groove. Next, install the upper side rail in the same manner. 8 After the three oil ring components have been installed, check that both the upper and lower side rails can be turned smoothly in the ring groove. 9 The second compression (middle) ring is

installed next, followed by the top compression ring - ensure their marks are uppermost, and be careful not to confuse them. Don’t expand either ring any more than necessary to slide it over the top of the piston. 10 On HCS engines, when all of the rings are fitted to each piston, arrange them so that the gaps are positioned as described in the Specifications at the start of this Chapter. 11 On the CVH and PTE engines, when all of the rings are fitted to each piston, arrange them so that the gaps are spaced at 120º intervals, with no gaps positioned above the gudgeon pin hole. 12 On Zetec engines, when all the rings are fitted to each piston, space the ring gaps (including the elements of the oil control ring) uniformly around the piston at 120º intervals.

17 Crankshaft - refitting and

main bearing running clearance check

1 It is assumed at this point that the cylinder block/crankcase and crankshaft have been cleaned, inspected and repaired or reconditioned as necessary. Position the engine upside-down. 2 Remove the main bearing cap bolts, and lift out the caps. Lay the caps out in the proper order, to ensure correct installation. 3 If they’re still in place, remove the old bearing shells from the block and the main bearing caps. Wipe the bearing recesses of the block and caps with a clean, lint-free cloth. They must be kept spotlessly-clean!

Main bearing running clearance check

HCS engines

4 Wipe clean the main bearing shell seats in

the crankcase, and clean the backs of the bearing shells. Insert the respective upper shells (dry) into position in the crankcase. Note that the upper shells have grooves in them (the lower shells are plain, and have a wider location lug). Where the old main bearings are being refitted, ensure that they are located in their original positions. Make sure that the tab on each bearing shell fits into the notch in the block or cap.

Caution: Don’t hammer the shells into place, and don’t nick or gouge the bearing faces. No lubrication should be used at this time.

5 Place the crankshaft thrustwashers into position in the crankcase, so that their oil grooves are facing outwards (away from the central web) (see illustration).

CVH and PTE engines

6 Wipe clean the main bearing shell seats in

the crankcase, and clean the backs of the bearing shells. Insert the respective upper shells (dry) into position in the crankcase. Note that with the exception of the front main bearing, the upper shells have grooves in

2D•22 Engine removal and overhaul procedures

16.6 Look for etched markings (“STD” -

indicating a standard-sized ring - shown

here) identifying piston ring top surface

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them (the lower half bearings are plain). The upper and lower front shells are narrower in section, and both have an oil groove in them. Where the old main bearings are being refitted, ensure that they are located in their original positions (see illustration). Make sure that the tab on each bearing shell fits into the notch in the block or cap.

Caution: Don’t hammer the shells into place, and don’t nick or gouge the bearing faces. No lubrication should be used at this time.

7 Relocate the crankcase ventilation cap and its retaining spring into position in the crankcase (see illustration). 8 Place the crankshaft thrustwashers into position in the crankcase so that their oil grooves are facing outwards (away from the central web).

Zetec engines

9 Wipe clean the main bearing shell seats in

the crankcase, and clean the backs of the new main bearing shells. Fit the shells with an oil groove in each main bearing location in the block; note the thrustwashers integral with the No 3 (centre) main bearing upper shell. Fit the other shell from each bearing set in the corresponding main bearing cap. Make sure the tab on each bearing shell fits into the notch in the block or cap. Also, the oil holes in

the block must line up with the oil holes in the bearing shell (see illustration).

Caution: Don’t hammer the shells into place, and don’t nick or gouge the bearing faces. No lubrication should be used at this time.

All engines

10 Clean the bearing surfaces of the shells in

the block, and the crankshaft main bearing journals with a clean, lint-free cloth. Check or clean the oil holes in the crankshaft, as any dirt here can go only one way - straight through the new bearings. 11 Once you’re certain the crankshaft is clean, carefully lay it in position in the main bearings. Trim several pieces of the appropriate-size Plastigauge (they must be slightly shorter than the width of the main bearings), and place one piece on each crankshaft main bearing journal, parallel with the crankshaft centre-line (see illustration). 12 Clean the bearing surfaces of the cap shells, and install the caps in their respective positions (don’t mix them up) with the arrows pointing to the timing chain/belt end of the engine. Don’t disturb the Plastigauge. 13 Working on one cap at a time, from the centre main bearing outwards (and ensuring that each cap is tightened down squarely and evenly onto the block), tighten the main bearing cap bolts to the specified torque

wrench setting. Don’t rotate the crankshaft at any time during this operation! 14 Remove the bolts, and carefully lift off the main bearing caps. Keep them in order. Don’t disturb the Plastigauge or rotate the crankshaft. If any of the main bearing caps are difficult to remove, tap them gently from side-to-side with a soft-faced mallet to loosen them. 15 Compare the width of the crushed Plastigauge on each journal with the scale printed on the Plastigauge envelope to obtain the main bearing running clearance (see illustration). Check the Specifications to make sure that the clearance is correct. 16 If the clearance is not as specified, seek the advice of a Ford dealer or similar engine reconditioning specialist - if the crankshaft journals are in good condition, it may be possible simply to renew the shells to achieve the correct clearance. If this is not possible, the crankshaft must be reground by a specialist who can supply the necessary undersized shells. First though, make sure that no dirt or oil was between the bearing shells and the caps or block when the clearance was measured. If the Plastigauge is noticeably wider at one end than the other, the journal may be tapered. 17 Carefully scrape all traces of the Plastigauge material off the main bearing journals and the bearing surfaces. Be very

Engine removal and overhaul procedures 2D•23

17.7 Fit the crankcase ventilation cap and its retaining spring

17.6 Fit the bearing shells to the main bearing housings in the crankcase

17.15 Compare the width of the crushed

Plastigauge to the scale on the envelope to

determine the main bearing running

clearance

17.11 Lay the Plastigauge strips (arrowed) on the main bearing journals, parallel to

the crankshaft centre-line

17.9 Tab on each bearing shell must

engage with notch in block or cap, and oil

holes in upper shells must align with block

oilways

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

17.5 Place the crankshaft thrustwashers

into position in the crankcase so that their

oil grooves are facing outwards

Page 92

careful not to scratch the bearing - use your fingernail or the edge of a credit card.

Final crankshaft refitting

18 Carefully lift the crankshaft out of the engine. Clean the bearing surfaces of the shells in the block, then apply a thin, uniform layer of clean molybdenum disulphide-based grease, engine assembly lubricant, or clean engine oil to each surface. Coat the thrustwasher surfaces as well. 19 Lubricate the crankshaft oil seal journals with molybdenum disulphide-based grease, engine assembly lubricant, or clean engine oil. 20 Make sure the crankshaft journals are clean, then lay the crankshaft back in place in the block (see illustration). Clean the bearing surfaces of the shells in the caps, then lubricate them. Install the caps in their respective positions, with the arrows pointing to the timing belt/chain end of the engine. 21 Working on one cap at a time, from the centre main bearing outwards (and ensuring that each cap is tightened down squarely and evenly onto the block), tighten the main bearing cap bolts to the specified torque wrench setting. 22 Rotate the crankshaft a number of times by hand, to check for any obvious binding. 23 Check the crankshaft endfloat (see Section 12). It should be correct if the crankshaft thrust faces aren’t worn or damaged. 24 Refit the crankshaft left-hand oil seal carrier, and install a new seal (see Part A, B or C of this Chapter according to engine type).

18 Piston/connecting rod

assemblies - refitting and big-end

bearing running clearance check

Note: On HCS engines, new big-end bearing cap retaining bolts will be required for reassembly.

1 Before refitting the piston/connecting rod assemblies, the cylinder bores must be perfectly clean, the top edge of each cylinder must be chamfered, and the crankshaft must be in place. 2 Remove the big-end bearing cap from No 1 cylinder connecting rod (refer to the marks noted or made on removal). Remove the original bearing shells, and wipe the bearing recesses of the connecting rod and cap with a clean, lint-free cloth. They must be kept spotlessly-clean!

Big-end bearing running clearance check

3 Clean the back of the new upper bearing shell, fit it to the connecting rod, then fit the other shell of the bearing set to the big-end bearing cap. Make sure that the tab on each shell fits into the notch in the rod or cap recess (see illustration).

Caution: Don’t hammer the shells into place, and don’t nick or gouge the bearing face. Don’t lubricate the bearing at this time.

4 It’s critically important that all mating surfaces of the bearing components are perfectly clean and oil-free when they’re assembled. 5 Position the piston ring gaps as described in Section 16, lubricate the piston and rings with clean engine oil, and attach a piston ring compressor to the piston. Leave the skirt protruding about a quarter-inch, to guide the piston into the cylinder bore. The rings must be compressed until they’re flush with the piston. 6 Rotate the crankshaft until No 1 crankpin (big-end) journal is at BDC (Bottom Dead Centre), and apply a coat of engine oil to the cylinder walls. 7 Arrange the No 1 piston/connecting rod assembly so that the arrow on the piston

crown points to the timing belt/chain end of the engine. Gently insert the assembly into the No 1 cylinder bore, and rest the bottom edge of the ring compressor on the engine block. 8 Tap the top edge of the ring compressor to make sure it’s contacting the block around its entire circumference. 9 Gently tap on the top of the piston with the end of a wooden hammer handle (see illustration), while guiding the connecting rod’s big-end onto the crankpin. The piston rings may try to pop out of the ring compressor just before entering the cylinder bore, so keep some pressure on the ring compressor. Work slowly, and if any resistance is felt as the piston enters the cylinder, stop immediately. Find out what’s binding, and fix it before proceeding. Do not, for any reason, force the piston into the cylinder - you might break a ring and/or the piston. 10 To check the big-end bearing running clearance, cut a piece of the appropriate-size Plastigauge slightly shorter than the width of the connecting rod bearing, and lay it in place on the No 1 crankpin (big-end) journal, parallel with the crankshaft centre-line (see

illustration 17.11). 11 Clean the connecting rod-to-cap mating

surfaces, and refit the big-end bearing cap. Tighten the cap bolts evenly - on the HCS and Zetec engines, first use a torque wrench to tighten the bolts to the Stage 1 torque setting, then use an ordinary socket extension bar and an angle gauge to tighten the bolts further through the Stage 2 angle (see illustration). On the CVH and PTE engines, tighten the bolts progressively to the specified torque; further angle-tightening is not required on these engines. Use a thin-wall socket, to avoid erroneous torque readings that can result if the socket is wedged between the cap and nut. If the socket tends to wedge itself between the nut and the cap, lift up on it slightly until it no longer contacts the cap. Don’t rotate the crankshaft at any time during this operation! 12 Unscrew the bolts and detach the cap, being very careful not to disturb the Plastigauge. 13 Compare the width of the crushed

2D•24 Engine removal and overhaul procedures

18.11 Angle-tightening the big-end bolts using the correct tool

18.9 The piston can be driven gently into

the cylinder bore with the end of a wooden

or plastic hammer handle

18.3 Tab on each big-end bearing shell

must engage with notch in connecting rod

or cap

17.20 Refit the crankshaft after checking bearing clearances

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Plastigauge to the scale printed on the Plastigauge envelope, to obtain the running clearance (see illustration 17.15). Compare it to the Specifications, to make sure the clearance is correct. 14 If the clearance is not as specified, seek the advice of a Ford dealer or similar engine reconditioning specialist - if the crankshaft journals are in good condition it may be possible simply to renew the shells to achieve the correct clearance. If this is not possible, the crankshaft must be reground by a specialist, who can also supply the necessary undersized shells. First though, make sure that no dirt or oil was trapped between the bearing shells and the connecting rod or cap when the clearance was measured. Also, recheck the crankpin diameter. If the Plastigauge was wider at one end than the other, the crankpin journal may be tapered. 15 Carefully scrape all traces of the Plastigauge material off the journal and the bearing surface. Be very careful not to scratch the bearing - use your fingernail or the edge of a credit card.

Final piston/connecting rod refitting

16 Make sure the bearing surfaces are perfectly clean, then apply a uniform layer of clean molybdenum disulphide-based grease, engine assembly lubricant, or clean engine oil, to both of them. You’ll have to push the piston into the cylinder to expose the bearing surface of the shell in the connecting rod. 17 Slide the connecting rod back into place on the crankpin (big-end) journal, refit the bigend bearing cap, and then tighten the bolts as described above. 18 Repeat the entire procedure for the remaining piston/connecting rod assemblies. 19 The important points to remember are:

a) Keep the backs of the bearing shells and

the recesses of the connecting rods and caps perfectly clean when assembling them.

b) Make sure you have the correct

piston/rod assembly for each cylinder use the etched cylinder numbers to identify the front-facing side of both the rod and its cap.

c) The arrow on the piston crown must face

the timing belt/chain end of the engine.

d) Lubricate the cylinder bores with clean

engine oil.

e) Lubricate the bearing surfaces when

refitting the big-end bearing caps after the running clearance has been checked.

20 After all the piston/connecting rod assemblies have been properly installed, rotate the crankshaft a number of times by hand, to check for any obvious binding. 21 On HCS engines, if the oil pick-up pipe and strainer was removed, this is a good time to refit it. First clean the joint area, then coat the area indicated with the specified activator (available from Ford dealers) (see illustration). Wait for a period of ten minutes, then smear the shaded area with the specified adhesive and immediately press the inlet pipe into position in the crankcase.

19 Engine - initial start-up after

overhaul

1 With the engine refitted in the vehicle, double-check the engine oil and coolant levels. Make a final check that everything has been reconnected, and that there are no tools or rags left in the engine compartment. 2 With the spark plugs removed and the ignition system disabled by unplugging the ignition coil’s electrical connector, remove the fuel pump fuse (fuel injection engines) to disconnect the fuel pump (see Chapter 12). Turn the engine on the starter until the oil pressure warning light goes out. 3 Refit the spark plugs, and connect all the spark plug (HT) leads (Chapter 1). Reconnect the ignition coil. On fuel injection engines, refit

the fuel pump fuse, switch on the ignition and listen for the fuel pump; it will run for a little longer than usual, due to the lack of pressure in the system. 4 Start the engine, noting that this also may take a little longer than usual, due to the fuel system components being empty. 5 While the engine is idling, check for fuel, coolant and oil leaks. Don’t be alarmed if there are some odd smells and smoke from parts getting hot and burning off oil deposits. If the hydraulic tappets (where applicable) have been disturbed, some valve gear noise may be heard at first; this should disappear as the oil circulates fully around the engine, and normal pressure is restored in the tappets. 6 Keep the engine idling until hot water is felt circulating through the top hose, check that it idles reasonably smoothly and at the usual speed, then switch it off. 7 After a few minutes, recheck the oil and coolant levels, and top-up as necessary (Chapter 1). 8 If they were tightened as described, there is no need to re-tighten the cylinder head bolts once the engine has first run after reassembly

- in fact, Ford state that the bolts must not be re-tightened. 9 If new components such as pistons, rings or crankshaft bearings have been fitted, the engine must be run-in for the first 500 miles (800 km). Do not operate the engine at fullthrottle, or allow it to labour in any gear during this period. It is recommended that the oil and filter be changed at the end of this period.

Engine removal and overhaul procedures 2D•25

18.21 Oil inlet pipe refitting details on the HCS engine

A Area of sealant application - dimensions in mm B Edge must be parallel with engine longitudinal axis

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2D•26 Engine removal and overhaul procedures

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Notes

Page 95

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Coolant

Mixture type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1

Cooling system capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1

System pressure

Pressure test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.2 bars - should hold this pressure for at least 10 seconds

Expansion tank filler cap

Pressure rating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 to 1.4 bars approximately - see cap for actual value

Thermostat

Starts to open . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85ºC to 89ºC

Coolant temperature sensor

Resistance:

At 0ºC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89 to 102 kilohms

At 20ºC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 to 40 kilohms

At 100ºC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.9 to 2.5 kilohms

At 120ºC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 to 1.4 kilohms

Chapter 3

Cooling, heating and ventilation systems

Antifreeze - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Auxiliary drivebelt check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1

Coolant level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See

“Weekly Checks”

Cooling system - draining . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1

Cooling system - filling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1

Cooling system - flushing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1

Cooling system electrical switches and sensors - testing, removal

and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Cooling system hoses - disconnection and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Heater/ventilation components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Radiator and expansion tank - removal, inspection and refitting . . . 7 Radiator electric cooling fan assembly - testing, removal and

refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Thermostat - removal, testing and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Underbonnet check for fluid leaks and hose condition . .See Chapter 1

Water pump (CVH and PTE engines) - removal and refitting . . . . . . 9

Water pump (HCS engines) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Water pump (Zetec engines) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

3•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable for

novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Page 96

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Thermostat housing to cylinder head:

HCS engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 to 21 13 to 16

CVH engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 to 12 7 to 9

PTE engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7

Zetec engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 to 21 13 to 16

Water outlet to thermostat housing (Zetec engines) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 to 12 7 to 9

Water pump pulley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7.5

Water pump retaining bolts:

HCS, CVH and PTE engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6

Zetec engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 13

Coolant temperature gauge sender . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 4

Coolant temperature sensor:

HCS engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 17

CVH engines:

1.4 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 14

1.6 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11

PTE engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11

Zetec engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11

Radiator mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 to 27 15 to 20

Radiator cooling fan shroud retaining bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 to 5 2 to 4

Radiator cooling fan motor to shroud nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 to 12 7 to 9

Automatic transmission fluid cooling pipe connections to radiator . . . . 17 to 21 13 to 16

3•2 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

1 General information and

precautions

Engine cooling system

The cooling system is of the pressurised

type consisting of a belt-driven pump, aluminium crossflow radiator, expansion tank, electric cooling fan and a thermostat. The system functions as follows. Cold coolant in the bottom of the radiator passes through the bottom hose to the water pump, where it is pumped around the cylinder block and head passages. After cooling the cylinder bores, combustion surfaces and valve seats, the coolant reaches the underside of the thermostat, which is initially closed. The coolant passes through the heater and inlet manifold and is returned to the water pump.

When the engine is cold, the coolant

circulates through the cylinder block, cylinder head, heater and inlet manifold. When the coolant reaches a predetermined temperature, the thermostat opens, and the coolant then passes through the top hose to the radiator. As the coolant circulates through the radiator, it is cooled by the inrush of air when the car is in forward motion. Airflow is supplemented by the action of the electric cooling fan when necessary. Upon reaching the bottom of the radiator, the coolant is now cooled, and the cycle is repeated.

When the engine is at normal operating

temperature, the coolant expands, and some of it is displaced into the expansion tank. This coolant collects in the tank, and is returned to the radiator when the system cools.

The electric cooling fan, mounted behind

the radiator, is controlled by a thermostatic

switch. At a predetermined coolant temperature, the switch contacts close, thus actuating the fan.

Heating/ventilation system

The heating system consists of a blower fan and heater matrix (radiator) located in the heater unit, with hoses connecting the heater matrix to the engine cooling system. Hot engine coolant is circulated through the heater matrix. Air is forced through the matrix by the three-speed fan, dispersing the heat into the vehicle interior. Fresh air enters the vehicle through the grille slats between the windscreen and the rear edge of the bonnet, and passes through to the heater casing. Depending on the position of the heater slide controls, which actuate cable-controlled flap valves within the heater casing, the air is distributed, either heated or unheated, via the ducting to outlet vents. The main outlet vents in the facia are adjustable. The airflow passes through the passenger compartment to exit at the rear of the vehicle.

Precautions

Warning: DO NOT attempt to remove the expansion tank filler cap, or to disturb any part of the

cooling system, while it or the engine is hot, as there is a very great risk of scalding. If the expansion tank filler cap must be removed before the engine and radiator have fully cooled down (even though this is not recommended) the pressure in the cooling system must first be released. Cover the cap with a thick layer of cloth, to avoid scalding, and slowly unscrew the filler cap until a hissing sound can be heard. When the hissing has stopped, showing that pressure is released, slowly unscrew the filler cap further until it can be removed; if more hissing sounds are heard, wait until they

have stopped before unscrewing the cap completely. At all times, keep well away from the filler opening.

Warning: Do not allow antifreeze to come in contact with your skin, or with the painted

surfaces of the vehicle. Rinse off spills immediately with plenty of water. Never leave antifreeze lying around in an open container, or in a puddle in the driveway or on the garage floor. Children and pets are attracted by its sweet smell, but antifreeze can be fatal if ingested.

Warning: If the engine is hot, the

electric cooling fan may start

rotating even if the engine is not

running, so be careful to keep hands, hair and loose clothing well clear when working in the engine compartment.

2 Antifreeze -

general information

Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1 of this Chapter before proceeding.

The cooling system should be filled with a water/ethylene glycol-based antifreeze solution, of a strength which will prevent freezing down to at least -25ºC, or lower if the local climate requires it. Antifreeze also provides protection against corrosion, and increases the coolant boiling point.

The cooling system should be maintained according to the schedule described in Chapter 1. If antifreeze is used that is not to Ford’s specification, old or contaminated coolant mixtures are likely to cause damage, and encourage the formation of corrosion and scale in the system. Use distilled water with the antifreeze, if available - if not, be sure to use only soft water. Clean rainwater is suitable.

Page 97

Before adding antifreeze, check all hoses and hose connections, because antifreeze tends to leak through very small openings. Engines don’t normally consume coolant, so if the level falls regularly, find the cause and correct it.

The exact mixture of antifreeze-to-water which you should use depends on the relative weather conditions. The mixture should contain at least 40% antifreeze, but not more than 70%. Consult the mixture ratio chart on the antifreeze container before adding coolant. Hydrometers are available at most automotive accessory shops to test the coolant. Use only good-quality ethyleneglycol-based antifreeze which meets the vehicle manufacturer’s specifications.

3 Cooling system hoses -

disconnection and renewal

Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1 of this Chapter before starting work.

1 If the checks described in Chapter 1 reveal a faulty hose, it must be renewed as follows. 2 First drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1); if the antifreeze is not due for renewal, the drained coolant may be re-used, if it is collected in a clean container. 3 To disconnect any hose, use a pair of pliers to release the spring clamps (or a screwdriver to slacken screw-type clamps), then move them along the hose clear of the union. Carefully work the hose off its stubs. The hoses can be removed with relative ease when new - on an older car, they may have stuck. 4 If a hose proves stubborn, try to release it by rotating it on its unions before attempting to work it off. Gently prise the end of the hose with a blunt instrument (such as a flat-bladed screwdriver), but do not apply too much force, and take care not to damage the pipe stubs or hoses. Note in particular that the radiator hose unions are fragile; do not use excessive force when attempting to remove the hoses.

5 When refitting a hose, first slide the clamps onto the hose, then work the hose onto its unions.

6 Work each hose end fully onto its union, then check that the hose is settled correctly and is properly routed. Slide each clip along the hose until it is behind the union flared end, before tightening it securely. 7 Refill the system with coolant (see Chapter 1). 8 Check carefully for leaks as soon as possible after disturbing any part of the cooling system.

4 Thermostat -

removal, testing and refitting

Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1 of this Chapter before starting work.

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).

2 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1). 3 Refer to the relevant Part of Chapter 4 and

remove the air cleaner or air inlet hoses, according to engine type as necessary, to gain access to the thermostat housing.

HCS, CVH and PTE engines

4 Loosen the clips, and disconnect the

radiator top hose, expansion tank hose and, where applicable, the heater hose from the thermostat housing (see illustrations).

5 Disconnect the thermostatic switch wire multi-plug from the thermostat housing. 6 Unscrew the retaining bolts, and remove the thermostat housing (see illustration). 7 Remove the gasket from the mating face of the thermostat housing, then using suitable pliers, compress the thermostat retaining clip (where applicable) and remove it from the housing. Extract the thermostat from the housing (noting its direction of fitting) and where applicable, remove the O-ring seal (see

illustrations).

Zetec engines

8 Disconnect the expansion tank hose and

Cooling, heating and ventilation systems 3•3

4.4b Disconnecting the expansion tank top hose from the thermostat housing

(HCS engine). Radiator cooling fan thermal

switch (arrowed)

4.4a Thermostat housing hose

attachments on the CVH engine

4.7b Exploded view of thermostat and housing (CVH and PTE engines)

A Sealing ring C Retaining clip B Thermostat

4.7a Removing the gasket and thermostat from an HCS engine

4.6 Removing the thermostat housing from a CVH engine

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

If all else fails, cut the hose with a sharp knife, then slit it so that it can be peeled off

in two pieces. Although this may prove expensive if the hose is otherwise undamaged, it is preferable to buying a new radiator.

If the hose is stiff, use a little

soapy water as a lubricant,

or soften the hose by

soaking it in hot water. Do not use oil or grease, which may attack the rubber.

Page 98

the radiator top hose from the thermostat housing’s water outlet (see illustration). 9 Unscrew the retaining bolts, and remove the water outlet from the thermostat housing. 10 Withdraw the thermostat from the housing noting the position of the air bleed valve, and how the thermostat is installed (which end is facing outwards) (see illustration).

Testing

General check

11 Before assuming the thermostat is to

blame for a cooling system problem, check the coolant level, auxiliary drivebelt tension and condition (see Chapter 1) and temperature gauge operation. 12 If the engine seems to be taking a long time to warm up (based on heater output or temperature gauge operation), the thermostat is probably stuck open. Renew the thermostat. 13 If the engine runs hot, use your hand to check the temperature of the radiator top hose. If the hose isn’t hot, but the engine is, the thermostat is probably stuck closed, preventing the coolant inside the engine from escaping to the radiator - renew the thermostat.

Caution: Don’t drive the vehicle without a thermostat. The lack of a thermostat will slow warm-up time. The engine management system’s ECU will then stay in warm-up mode for longer than necessary, causing emissions and fuel economy to suffer.

14 If the radiator top hose is hot, it means that the coolant is flowing and the thermostat is open. Consult the “Fault finding” section at the end of this manual to assist in tracing possible cooling system faults.

Thermostat test

15 If the thermostat remains in the open

position at room temperature, it is faulty, and must be renewed as a matter of course. 16 To test it fully, suspend the (closed) thermostat on a length of string in a container of cold water, with a thermometer beside it; ensure that neither touches the side of the container (see illustration). 17 Heat the water, and check the temperature at which the thermostat begins to open; compare this value with that specified. It’s not possible to check the fully-open temperature, because this occurs above the boiling point of water at normal atmospheric pressure. If the temperature at which the thermostat began to open was as specified, then it is most likely that the thermostat is working properly at all temperatures. Remove the thermostat, and allow it to cool down; check that it closes fully. 18 If the thermostat does not open and close as described, if it sticks in either position, or if it does not open at the specified temperature, it must be renewed.

Refitting

All models

19 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Clean

the mating surfaces carefully, and renew the

thermostat’s O-ring seal or housing gasket, as applicable. 20 On Zetec engines, ensure that the thermostat is fitted with its air bleed valve uppermost. 21 Tighten the thermostat housing/water outlet bolts to the specified torque.

22 Refill the cooling system (see Chapter 1). 23 Refit the air cleaner or air inlet components,

as applicable, if removed for access. 24 Start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature, then check for leaks and proper thermostat operation.

5 Radiator electric cooling fan

assembly - testing, removal

and refitting

Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1 of this Chapter before starting work.

Testing

1 If it is suspected that the cooling fan is not operating when high engine temperature would normally require it to do so, first check the relevant fuses and relays (see Chapter 12). 2 Detach the wiring multi-plug from the thermostatic switch, which is located either in the thermostat housing or at the right-hand end of the radiator, next to the bottom hose (see illustration). Using a suitable piece of wire, bridge the two connections within the plug. Switch the ignition on and check if the cooling fan operates. If the fan now operates, the thermostatic switch is at fault, and should be renewed as described in Section 6. Remove the bridging wire from the plug, and reconnect the wiring connector to complete the test. 3 If the fan failed to operate in the previous test, either the fan motor is at fault, or there is a fault in the wiring loom (see Chapter 12 for testing details).

Removal

All models except Turbo

4 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead

(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1). 5 Detach the wiring multi-plug from the fan motor and unclip the wiring from the retaining clips on the shroud (see illustration).

3•4 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems

5.5 Disconnecting the multi-plug from the radiator cooling fan motor

5.2 Radiator cooling fan thermostatic

switch location on CVH engine thermostat

housing

4.16 Testing the thermostat4.10 Zetec engine thermostat removal4.8 Disconnect the coolant hoses from the

water outlet on a Zetec engine

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Page 99

6 Unscrew the nut securing the cooling fan shroud to the radiator, noting the insulating washer arrangement, then lift the fan shroud and motor assembly from the vehicle (see

illustration). 7 To separate the fan from the motor shaft,

first remove its retaining clip and washer, then withdraw the fan (see illustration). A new clip will be needed upon reassembly. Remove the three nuts securing the motor to the shroud and separate the two components.

Turbo models

8 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead

(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1). 9 Undo the two retaining screws and move the HT lead bracket clear of the working area, disconnecting the HT leads as required. 10 Disconnect the fan motor wiring multiplug and the two auxiliary lamp wiring multiplugs. Unclip the wiring from any local retaining clips. 11 Remove the front bumper as described in Chapter 11. 12 Undo the two lower fan shroud retaining bolts, release the shroud upper locating tongue from the radiator and withdraw the assembly from the front of the car. 13 To separate the fan from the motor shaft, pull off the fan guard from the shroud, flatten back the raised lockwasher tab, and unscrew clockwise (a left-hand thread is employed) the nut securing the fan to the motor shaft. Remove the fan then undo the three nuts securing the motor to the shroud and separate the two components.

Refitting

All models

14 Refitting is a reversal of the removal

procedure. On non-Turbo models, ensure that the locating tags on the base of the shroud locate correctly in their slots in the body crossmember. On Turbo models, if the fan was removed, use a new lockwasher when refitting. On all models, ensure that the wiring connections are cleanly and securely made, and locate the loom in the retaining clips.

6 Cooling system electrical

switches and sensors -

testing, removal and refitting

Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1 of this Chapter before starting work.

Coolant temperature gauge sender

Testing

1 If the coolant temperature gauge is

inoperative, check the fuses first (see Chapter 12). 2 If the gauge indicates overheating at any time, consult the “Fault finding” section at the end of this manual, to assist in tracing possible cooling system faults.

3 If the gauge indicates overheating shortly after the engine is started from cold, disconnect the temperature gauge sender’s wiring multi-plug. The sender is located below the thermostat housing on HCS engines, adjacent to the thermostat housing on CVH and PTE engines, and on the forward-facing side of the thermostat housing on Zetec engines. If the gauge reading now drops, renew the sender. If the reading remains high, the wire to the gauge may be shorted to earth, or the gauge is faulty. 4 If the gauge fails to indicate after the engine has been warmed up (approximately 10 minutes) and the fuses are known to be sound, switch off the engine. Disconnect the sender’s wiring multi-plug, and use a jumper wire to ground the connector to a clean earth point (bare metal) on the engine. Switch on the ignition without starting the engine. If the gauge now indicates Hot, renew the sender. 5 If the gauge still does not work, the circuit may be open, or the gauge may be faulty. See Chapter 12 for additional information.

Removal

6 Refer to the relevant Part of Chapter 4 and

remove the air cleaner or air inlet hoses, according to engine type as necessary, to gain access to the sender unit.

7 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1). 8 On Zetec engines, disconnect the

expansion tank coolant hose and the radiator top hose from the thermostat housing’s water outlet. 9 Disconnect the wiring multi-plug from the sender unit.

10 Unscrew the sender and withdraw it.

Refitting

11 Clean as thoroughly as possible the

sender unit location, then apply a light coat of sealant to the sender’s threads. Screw in the sender, tighten it to the specified torque, and reconnect the wiring multi-plug. 12 Reconnect the hoses, and refit any components disconnected for access. Refill or top-up the cooling system (see “Weekly Checks” or Chapter 1) and run the engine. Check for leaks and proper gauge operation.

Engine coolant temperature sensor

Testing

13 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)

lead (see Chapter 5A, Section 1). 14 Locate the coolant temperature sensor, which will be found below the inlet manifold on HCS engines, on the side or centre of the inlet manifold on CVH and PTE engines, or on top of the thermostat housing on Zetec engines. Once located, refer to the relevant Part of Chapter 4 and remove the air cleaner or air inlet hoses, according to engine type as necessary, to improve access to the sensor unit. 15 Disconnect the wiring multi-plug from the sensor. 16 Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the sensor terminals. Depending on the temperature of the sensor tip, the resistance measured will vary, but should be within the broad limits given in the Specifications of this Chapter. If the sensor’s temperature is varied - by removing it (see below) and placing it in a freezer for a while, or by warming it gently - its resistance should alter accordingly. 17 If the results obtained show the sensor to be faulty, renew it. 18 On completion, reconnect the wiring multi-plug and refit any components removed for access, then reconnect the battery.

Removal

19 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)

lead (see Chapter 5A, Section 1). 20 Locate the sensor as described previously, and remove any components as necessary for access.

21 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1). 22 Disconnect the wiring multi-plug from the

sensor.

23 Unscrew the sensor and withdraw it.

Refitting

24 Clean as thoroughly as possible the

sensor location, then apply a light coat of sealant to the sensor’s threads. Refit and tighten the sensor to the specified torque

Cooling, heating and ventilation systems 3•5

5.7 Nuts securing fan motor to shroud (A),

and shroud to body crossmember locating

tags (B). Inset shows fan to motor shaft

retaining clip (arrowed)

5.6 Radiator cooling fan shroud securing nut (arrowed)

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Page 100

wrench setting, and reconnect the multi-plug. 25 Refit any components disconnected for access then refill the cooling system (see Chapter 1).

Radiator electric cooling fan thermostatic switch

Testing

26 Refer to the procedures contained in

Section 5.

Removal

27 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)

lead (refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).

28 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1). 29 Disconnect the wiring multi-plug from the

thermostatic switch, and then unscrew the switch from the thermostat housing or radiator side tank, as applicable. Remove the sealing washer.

Refitting

30 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but fit a

new sealing washer and tighten the switch securely. Refill the cooling system as described in Chapter 1, then reconnect the battery.

7 Radiator and expansion tank

- removal, inspection and refitting

Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1 of this Chapter before starting work.

Radiator

Removal (all models except Turbo)

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead

(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).

2 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1). 3 Remove the radiator cooling fan assembly

as described in Section 5. 4 Release the hose clips and disconnect the hoses from the radiator. Additionally, on

automatic transmission models, disconnect the transmission fluid cooling pipe connections fitting blanking plugs to prevent excessive fluid loss (see illustration). 5 On Zetec engine models, disconnect the wiring multi-plug from the cooling fan thermostatic switch 6 Remove the radiator securing bolts and lift the radiator out of its locating slots in the body crossmember. Note rubber insulators fitted to the locating lugs on the base of the radiator

(see illustrations). 7 With the radiator removed, it can be

inspected for leaks and damage. If it needs repair, have a radiator specialist or dealer service department perform the work, as special techniques are required. 8 Insects and dirt can be removed from the radiator with a garden hose or a soft brush. Don’t bend the cooling fins as this is done.

Removal (Turbo models)

9 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead

(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).

10 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1). 11 Remove the radiator cooling fan assembly

as described in Section 5. 12 Release the hose clips and disconnect the hoses from the radiator. 13 Disconnect the turbocharger coolant feed by slackening its clamp and pulling the hose (at the radiator rear right-hand side) off the turbocharger’s metal pipe. 14 Remove the intercooler, as described in Chapter 4C. 15 Remove its three retaining screws, and withdraw the exhaust manifold heat shield.

16 Lift the radiator out of its locating slots in the body crossmember. Note rubber insulators fitted to the locating lugs on the base of the radiator. 17 Clean and inspect the radiator with reference to paragraphs 7 and 8 above.

Refitting (all models)

18 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but

check the rubber insulators, and if necessary renew them. Refill the cooling system with reference to Chapter 1. On automatic transmission models check, and if necessary top-up, the automatic transmission fluid level (Chapter 1).

Expansion tank

Removal

19 Partially drain the cooling system, so that

the coolant level drops below the expansion tank. Refer to Chapter 1 for details. 20 Before disconnecting the coolant hoses from the expansion tank, it is advisable to clamp them just short of their connections to the expansion tank, to prevent spillage of coolant and the ingress of air when they are detached. 21 Loosen off the coolant hose clips at the expansion tank, and detach the hoses from it. If they are not clamped, secure them so that their ends are raised, to minimise coolant spillage. 22 Remove the single bolt retaining the expansion tank, and slide the other side of the tank free from its retaining bracket (see illustrations).

3•6 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems

7.22b . . . and release the expansion tank from its retaining bracket

7.22a Remove the single bolt retaining the expansion tank . . .

7.6b Rubber insulator on radiator locating lug

7.6a Radiator securing bolt, insulator and washer

7.4 Automatic transmission fluid cooling

pipe connections (arrowed) at the radiator

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

If leakage is the reason for removing the radiator, bear in mind that minor leaks can

often be cured using a radiator sealant with the radiator in situ.

Ford Fiesta 1995 User Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual