Ford Fiesta User Manual

Chapter 1

Routine maintenance and servicing

Air cleaner element renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31

Air cleaner temperature control check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29

Auxiliary drivebelt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20

Battery electrolyte level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .see

“Weekly checks”

Battery terminal check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17

Brake hydraulic fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33

Brake hydraulic system seal and hose renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32

Brake pipe and hose check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26

Choke adjustment check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9

Contact breaker point renewal and distributor lubrication

- OHV engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23

Crankcase ventilation system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28

Emission control filter element renewal - CVH engines . . . . . . . . . . .30

Engine coolant renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36

Engine idle speed check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10

Engine oil and filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3

Engine valve clearance check - OHV engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18

Exhaust system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

Fluid leak check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

Fluid level checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .see “Weekly checks”

Front and rear brake pad/shoe check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

Front wheel alignment check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35

Gearbox oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22

Handbrake check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19

Hinge and lock check and lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

HT lead, distributor cap and ignition circuit check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

Ignition timing and contact breaker gap (dwell angle) check

- OHV engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15

Intensive maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2

Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1

Mixture adjustment check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11

Road test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27

Roadwheel security check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Seat belt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

Spark plug check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

Spark plug renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21

Steering and suspension security check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24

Throttle damper operation check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16

Timing belt renewal - CVH engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34

Tyre checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .see “Weekly checks”

Underbody inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25

Wiper blade check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .see “Weekly checks”

1•1

Contents

Easy, suitable for

novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Servicing Specifications

Lubricants and fluids See end of “Weekly checks” Capacities

Engine oil

With filter:

1.0 and 1.1 OHV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.25 litres (5.7 Imp pints)

1.3,1.4 and 1.6 CVH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.50 litres (6.2 Imp pints)

Without filter:

1.0 and 1.1 OHV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.75 litres (4.8 Imp pints)

1.3, 1.4 and 1.6 CVH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.25 litres (5.7 Imp pints)

Cooling system (including heater)

1.0 and 1.1 OHV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.5 litres (9.7 Imp pints)

1.3 and 1.4 CVH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.3 litres (11.1 Imp pints)

1.6 CVH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.0 litres (14.1 Imp pints)

Fuel tank

All models - pre 1985, except XR2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 litres (7.5 gallons)

XR2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 litres (8.4 gallons)

All models - 1985 on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 litres (8.8 gallons)

Gearbox

4-speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.8 litres (4.9 Imp pints)

5-speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.1 litres (5.5 Imp pints)

1•2 Servicing Specifications

Engine

Oil filter type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion C104

Valve clearances (only OHV applicable):

Inlet:

At operating temperature . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.22 mm (0.009 in)

Cold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.20 to 0.25 mm (0.008 to 0.010 in)

Exhaust:

At operating temperature . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.59 mm (0.023 in)

Cold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.56 to 0.61 mm (0.022 to 0.024 in)

Cooling system

Drivebelt tension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.0 mm (0.16 in) total deflection at the midpoint of the belt’s longest run

Fuel system

Air filter element type:

1.0 and 1.1 (OHV) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W153

1.3 (CVH) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W127

1.4 (CVH) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W179

1.6 (CVH) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W201

Ignition system

Spark plugs:

Make and type:

Mechanical system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RS9YCC or RS9YC

Electronic system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RC7YCC or RC7YC

Electrode gap:

RS9YCC and RC7YCC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.80 mm (0.032 in)

RS9YC and RC7YC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.75 mm (0.030 in)

Note: The spark plug gap quoted is that recommended by Champion for their specified plugs listed above. If spark plugs of any other type are to be fitted, refer to their manufacturer’s recommendations.

Contact breaker points gap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.40 to 0.50 mm (0.016 to 0.020 in)

Dwell (mechanical ignition):

Angle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48° to 52°

Variation (from idle to 2000 rpm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4° maximum

Overlap (lobe-to-lobe variation) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3° maximum

Timing (initial):

1.0 litre OHV (pre 1986) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12° BTDC

1.1 litre OHV (pre 1986) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6° BTDC

Ignition HT lead set:

Resistance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 k ohms maximum per lead

Type:

Mechanical system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion CLS 8 boxed set

Electronic system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion CLS 9 boxed set

Brakes

Front brake pad friction material minimum thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 mm (0.059 in)

Rear brake shoe friction material minimum thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 mm (0.04 in)

Tyres

Tyre sizes: Note: Manufacturers often modify tyre sizes and pressure recommendations. The following is intended as a guide only. Refer to your vehicle

handbook or a Ford dealer for the latest recommendations.

XR2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185/60 HR 13

Other models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135 SR 13, 155/70 SR 13 or 165/65 SR 13

Tyre pressures: See end of “Weekly checks”

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Engine oil drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Radiator coolant drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 1.1

Gearbox oil filler/level plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 20

Roadwheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 74

Spark plugs:

OHV engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 to 20 10 to 15

CVH engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 20

Brake caliper piston housing bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 17

The maintenance intervals in this manual are provided with the assumption that you will be carrying out the work yourself. These are the minimum maintenance intervals recommended by the manufacturer for vehicles driven daily. If you wish to keep your vehicle in peak condition at all times, you may

wish to perform some of these procedures more often. We encourage frequent maintenance, because it enhances the efficiency, performance and resale value of your vehicle.

If the vehicle is driven in dusty areas, used

to tow a trailer, or driven frequently at slow

speeds (idling in traffic) or on short journeys, more frequent maintenance intervals are recommended.

When the vehicle is new, it should be serviced by a factory-authorised dealer service department, in order to preserve the factory warranty.

Maintenance schedule 1•3

Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly

mm Refer to “Weekly checks”

Every 6000 miles (10 000 km) or 6 months - whichever comes sooner

mm Renew engine oil and filter (Section 3) mm Check brake pads or shoes for wear (front and

rear) (Section 4)

mm Check operation of brake fluid level warning

indicator (Section 4)

mm Inspect engine bay and underside of vehicle for

fluid leaks or other signs of damage (Section 5)

mm Check function and condition of seat belts

(Section 6)

mm Check condition and security of exhaust system

(Section 7)

mm Check tightness of wheel nuts (Section 8) mm Check choke adjustment (Section 9) mm Check idle speed (Section 10) mm Check mixture adjustment (Section 11) mm Check spark plugs (Section 12) mm Check HT leads, distributor cap and ignition circuit

(Section 13)

mm Check operation of latches, check straps and

locks; lubricate if necessary (Section 14)

mm Check ignition timing and contact breaker gap

(dwell angle) (OHV engines) (Section 15)

mm Check operation of throttle damper (where

applicable) (Section 16)

Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) or 12 months - whichever comes sooner (continued)

mm Renew spark plugs (Section 21) mm Check gearbox oil level (Section 22) mm Renew distributor contact breaker points and

lubricate distributor - OHV engines (Section 23)

mm Check security and condition of steering and

suspension components, gaiters and boots (Section 24)

mm Inspect underbody and panels for corrosion or

other damage (Section 25)

mm Inspect brake pipes and hoses (Section 26) mm Road test (Section 27) mm Check crankcase ventilation system (Section 28)

Every 24 000 miles (40 000 km) or 2 years - whichever comes sooner

mm Check air cleaner temperature control (Section 29) mm Renew emission control filter element - CVH

engines (Section 30)

mm Renew air cleaner element (Section 31)

Every 36 000 miles (60 000 km) or 3 years - whichever comes sooner

mm Renew brake hydraulic system seals and hoses if

necessary (Section 32)

mm Renew brake hydraulic fluid (Section 33) mm Renew timing belt - CVH engines (Section 34) mm Check front wheel alignment (Section 35)

Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) or 12 months - whichever comes sooner

mm Check tightness of battery terminals, clean and

neutralise corrosion (Section 17)

mm Check engine valve clearances - OHV engines

(Section 18)

mm Check handbrake mechanism (Section 19) mm Check condition and tension of auxiliary drivebelt

(Section 20)

Every 2 years, regardless of mileage

mm Renew coolant (Section 36)

1•4 Maintenance - component location

Engine compartment - OHV

1 Coolant expansion tank 2 Engine oil dipstick 3 Oil filter 4 Ignition coil 5 Brake fluid reservoir 6 Battery 7 Cooling fan 8 Oil filler cap 9 Carburettor (air cleaner removed) 10 Alternator 11 Washer reservoir

Engine compartment - CVH

1 Coolant expansion tank 2 Engine oil dipstick 3 Carburettor (air cleaner removed) 4 Fuel pump 5 Distributor 6 Ignition coil 7 Windscreen wiper motor 8 Ignition amplifier module 9 Battery 10 Brake fluid reservoir 11 Cooling fan 12 Oil filler cap 13 Washer reservoir

Maintenance - component location 1•5

Underside view of car at rear

1 Rear silencer 2 Brake secondary cable 3 Fuel tank 4 Suspension coil spring 5 Shock absorber lower mounting 6 Panhard rod 7 Anti-roll bar (certain models only) 8 Towing eye 9 Axle beam 10 Exhaust system mounting 11 Handbrake adjustment check plunger 12 Suspension trailing arm 13 Brake pressure control valve

Underside view of car at front - CVH

1 Suspension arm 2 Driveshaft 3 Tie-bar 4 Alternator 5 Sump 6 Exhaust 7 Starter motor 8 Engine/gearbox bearer 9 Gearbox 10 Disc brake caliper 11 Gearchange rod and stabilizer rod

1 Introduction

This Chapter is designed to help the home mechanic maintain his/her vehicle for safety, economy, long life and peak performance.

The Chapter contains a master maintenance schedule, followed by Sections dealing specifically with each task in the schedule. Visual checks, adjustments, component renewal and other helpful items are included. Refer to the accompanying illustrations of the engine compartment and the underside of the vehicle for the locations of the various components.

Servicing your vehicle in accordance with the mileage/time maintenance schedule and the following Sections will provide a planned maintenance programme, which should result in a long and reliable service life. This is a comprehensive plan, so maintaining some items but not others at the specified service intervals, will not produce the same results.

As you service your vehicle, you will discover that many of the procedures can and should - be grouped together, because of the particular procedure being performed, or because of the close proximity of two otherwise-unrelated components to one another. For example, if the vehicle is raised for any reason, the exhaust can be inspected at the same time as the suspension and steering components.

The first step in this maintenance programme is to prepare yourself before the actual work begins. Read through all the Sections relevant to the work to be carried out, then make a list and gather together all the parts and tools required. If a problem is encountered, seek advice from a parts specialist, or a dealer service department.

2 Intensive maintenance

If, from the time the vehicle is new, the routine maintenance schedule is followed closely, and frequent checks are made of fluid levels and high-wear items, as suggested throughout this manual, the engine will be kept in relatively good running condition, and the need for additional work will be minimised.

It is possible that there will be times when the engine is running poorly due to the lack of regular maintenance. This is even more likely if a used vehicle, which has not received regular and frequent maintenance checks, is purchased. In such cases, additional work may need to be carried out, outside of the regular maintenance intervals.

If engine wear is suspected, a compression test will provide valuable information regarding the overall performance of the main internal components. Such a test can be used as a basis to decide on the extent of the work to be carried out. If, for example, a compression test indicates serious internal

engine wear, conventional maintenance as described in this Chapter will not greatly improve the performance of the engine, and may prove a waste of time and money, unless extensive overhaul work is carried out first.

The following series of operations are those most often required to improve the performance of a generally poor-running engine:

Primary operations

a) Clean, inspect and test the battery b) Check all the engine-related fluids c) Check the condition and tension of the

auxiliary drivebelt d) Renew the spark plugs e) Inspect the distributor cap and HT leads -

as applicable f) Check the condition of the air cleaner

filter element, and renew if necessary g) Renew the fuel filter (if fitted) h) Check the condition of all hoses, and

check for fluid leaks i) Check the idle speed and mixture settings

- as applicable

If the above operations do not prove fully effective, carry out the following secondary operations:

Secondary operations

a) Check the charging system b) Check the ignition system c) Check the fuel system d) Renew the distributor cap and rotor arm -

as applicable

e) Renew the ignition HT leads - as applicable

3 Engine oil and filter renewal

1 Frequent oil and filter changes are the most important preventative maintenance procedures which can be undertaken by the DIY owner. As engine oil ages, it becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear. 2 Before starting this procedure, gather together all the necessary tools and materials. Also make sure that you have plenty of clean rags and newspapers handy, to mop up any spills. Ideally, the engine oil should be warm, as it will drain better, and more built-up sludge will be removed with it. Take care, however, not to touch the exhaust or any other hot parts of the engine when working under the vehicle. To avoid any possibility of scalding, and to protect yourself from possible skin irritants and other harmful contaminants in used engine oils, it is advisable to wear gloves when carrying out this work. Access to the underside of the vehicle will be greatly improved if it can be raised on a lift, driven onto ramps, or jacked

up and supported on axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”). Whichever method is chosen, make sure that the vehicle remains level, or if it is at an angle, so that the drain plug is at the lowest point.

3 Slacken the drain plug about half a turn (see illustration). Position the draining container

under the drain plug, then remove the plug completely. If possible, try to keep the plug pressed into the sump while unscrewing it by hand the last couple of turns. Recover the sealing washer from the drain plug.

4 Allow some time for the old oil to drain, noting that it may be necessary to reposition the container as the oil flow slows to a trickle. 5 After all the oil has drained, wipe off the drain plug with a clean rag. Check the sealing washer for condition, and renew it if necessary. Clean the area around the drain plug opening, and refit the plug. Tighten the plug to the specified torque.

6 Move the container into position under the oil filter. 7 Using an oil filter removal tool if necessary, slacken the filter initially, then unscrew it by hand the rest of the way (see illustration). Empty the oil from the old filter into the container, and discard the filter. 8 Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirt and sludge from the filter sealing area on the engine. Check the old filter to make sure that the rubber sealing ring hasn’t stuck to the engine. If it has, carefully remove it.

1•6 Maintenance procedures

3.3 Removing the sump drain plug

6000 Mile (10 000 Km) / 6 Month Service

Remove the engine oil drain plug quickly so that the stream of oil runs into the container, not up your sleeve!

9 Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to the sealing ring on the new filter, then screw it into position on the engine. Tighten the filter firmly by hand only - do not use any tools. Wipe clean the filter and sump drain plug. 10 Remove the old oil and all tools from under the car, then lower the car to the ground (if applicable). 11 Remove the oil filler cap and withdraw the dipstick. Fill the engine, using the correct grade and type of oil (see “Lubricants and fluids” and “Capacities” in the Specifications). An oil can spout or funnel may help to reduce spillage. Pour in half the specified quantity of oil first, then wait a few minutes for the oil to fall to the sump. Continue adding oil a small quantity at a time until the level is up to the lower mark on the dipstick. Finally, bring the level up to the upper mark on the dipstick. Insert the dipstick, and refit the filler cap.

12 Start the engine and run it for a few minutes; check for leaks around the oil filter seal and the sump drain plug. Note that there may be a delay of a few seconds before the oil pressure warning light goes out when the engine is first started, as the oil circulates through the engine oil galleries and the new oil filter, before the pressure builds up. 13 Switch off the engine, and wait a few minutes for the oil to settle in the sump once more. With the new oil circulated and the filter completely full, recheck the level on the dipstick, and add more oil as necessary.

14 Dispose of the used engine oil safely.

4 Front and rear brake

pad/shoe check

1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front and rear of the car and support it securely on axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”). 2 For a quick check, the front brake disc pads can be inspected without removing the front wheels by inserting a mirror between each caliper and roadwheel (see illustrations). If any one pad is worn down to the minimum specified thickness, all four pads (on both front wheels) must be renewed. 3 For a comprehensive check, the brake disc pads should be removed and cleaned. The operation of the caliper can then also be checked, and the condition of the brake discs can be fully examined on both sides. Refer to Chapter 9 for further information.

4 The rear brake shoe friction material can be inspected for wear without removing the roadwheels. Working beneath the vehicle, prise the plug from the brake backplate and using an inspection lamp or torch, check that the friction material thickness is not less than the minimum given in the Specifications (see illustrations). If any one of the shoes has worn below the specified limit, the shoes must be renewed as an axle set (4 shoes). 5 At the same interval, check the function of the brake fluid level warning light. Chock the wheels, release the handbrake and switch on the ignition. Unscrew and raise the brake fluid reservoir cap whilst an assistant observes the warning light: it should come on as the level sensor is withdrawn from the fluid. Refit the cap. 6 On completion, refit the wheels and lower the car to the ground.

5 Fluid leak check

1 Visually inspect the engine joint faces, gaskets and seals for any signs of water or oil leaks. Pay particular attention to the areas around the rocker cover, cylinder head, oil filter and sump joint faces. Bear in mind that over a period of time some very slight seepage from these areas is to be expected but what you are really looking for is any indication of a serious leak. Should a leak be found, renew the offending gasket or oil seal by referring to the appropriate Chapter(s) in this manual. 2 Similarly, check the transmission for oil leaks, and investigate and rectify and problems found. 3 Check the security and condition of all the engine related pipes and hoses. Ensure that all cable-ties or securing clips are in place and in good condition. Clips which are broken or missing can lead to chafing of the hoses, pipes or wiring which could cause more serious problems in the future. 4 Carefully check the condition of all coolant, fuel and brake hoses. Renew any hose which is cracked, swollen or deteriorated. Cracks will show up better if the hose is squeezed. Pay close attention to the hose clips that secure the hoses to the system components. Hose clips can pinch and puncture hoses, resulting in leaks. If wire type hose clips are used, it may be a good idea to replace them with screw-type clips. 5 With the vehicle raised, inspect the fuel tank and filler neck for punctures, cracks and

Every 6000 miles or 6 months 1•7

4.2b Inspect the disc brake pads through the caliper housing aperture

4.4b . . . to check the rear brake linings for wear

4.4a Remove the inspection plug from the rear brake backplate . . .

4.2a Using a mirror to check disc brake pads for wear

3.7 Removing the engine oil filter with a clamp wrench

Leaks in the cooling system will usually show up as white or rust-coloured deposits around the area

adjoining the leak.

other damage. The connection between the filler neck and tank is especially critical. Sometimes a rubber filler neck or connecting hose will leak due to loose retaining clamps or deteriorated rubber. 6 Similarly, inspect all brake hoses and metal pipes. If any damage or deterioration is discovered, do not drive the vehicle until the necessary repair work has been carried out. Renew any damaged sections of hose or pipe. 7 Carefully check all rubber hoses and metal fuel lines leading away from the petrol tank. Check for loose connections, deteriorated hoses, crimped lines and other damage. Pay particular attention to the vent pipes and hoses which often loop up around the filler neck and can become blocked or crimped. Follow the lines to the front of the vehicle carefully inspecting them all the way. Renew damaged sections as necessary. 8 From within the engine compartment, check the security of all fuel hose attachments and pipe unions, and inspect the fuel hoses and vacuum hoses for kinks, chafing and deterioration. 9 Check the condition of all exposed wiring harnesses.

6 Seat belt check

1 Periodically check the belts for fraying or other damage. If evident, renew the belt. 2 If the belts become dirty, wipe them with a damp cloth using a little detergent only. 3 Check the tightness of the anchor bolts and if they are ever disconnected, make quite sure that the original sequence of fitting of washers, bushes and anchor plates is retained.

7 Exhaust system check

With the vehicle raised on a hoist or supported on axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”), check the exhaust system for signs of leaks, corrosion or damage and check the rubber mountings for condition and security (see illustration). Where damage or corrosion are evident, renew the system complete or in sections, as applicable, using the information given in Chapter 4.

8 Roadwheel security check

With the wheels on the ground, slacken each wheel bolt by a quarter turn, then retighten it immediately to the specified torque.

9 Choke adjustment check

On models equipped with carburettors of Ford manufacture, refer to Chapter 4, Section 9 and check that the choke is adjusted within the stated parameters.

10 Engine idle speed check

Ford 1V carburettor

1 Ensure that the air cleaner is correctly fitted, and that all vacuum hoses and pipes are securely connected and free from restrictions, then run the engine until it is at normal operating temperature. 2 With the engine at normal operating temperature, adjust the idle speed screw (see illustration) to obtain the specified idle speed, using a tachometer to ensure accuracy.

Ford VV carburettor

3 This procedure must be carried out with the radiator cooling fan in operation. To keep the fan running during the adjustment procedure, disconnect the wiring multi-plug from the thermal switch (located in the thermostat housing) and bridge the two contacts in the plug with a short length of wire (see illustration). Disconnect the wire and refit the multi-plug on completion of the adjustments. Make sure that the engine and ignition are switched off when connecting and disconnecting the bridging wire. 4 Ensure that the air cleaner is correctly fitted, and that all vacuum hoses and pipes are securely connected and free from restrictions, then run the engine until it is at normal operating temperature. 5 With the engine at normal operating temperature, connect a tachometer in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. 6 Start the engine, run it at 3000 rpm for 30 seconds and then let it idle. Turn the idle speed adjusting screw in or out as necessary to bring the speed to that given in the Specifications (see illustration).

1•8 Every 6000 miles or 6 months

7.1 Inspect the exhaust system rubber mounting

10.3 Temporary bridging wire in cooling fan thermal switch multi-plug

10.6 Ford VV carburettor idle speed screw (A) and mixture screw (B)

10.2 Ford 1V carburettor idle speed screw (A) and mixture screw (B)

Weber 2V carburettor

7 Refer to the information relating to the Ford 1V carburettor for details, and to the accompanying illustration (see illustration) for the adjusting screws. Ensure that the engine fan is operating by pulling the two wires from the sensor, and connecting the wires with a jumper lead.

Weber 2V DFTM

8 Before carrying out this adjustment, ensure that the air cleaner is correctly fitted and that all vacuum hoses and pipes are securely connected and free from restrictions. Run the engine until it is at normal operating temperature. 9 The cooling fan must be kept running during the adjustment procedure. To do this, disconnect the wiring multi-plug from the thermal switch (located in the thermostat housing) and bridge the two contacts in the plug with a short length of wire. 10 Start the engine and turn the idle speed adjustment screw (see illustration) to obtain the specified idle speed, using a tachometer to ensure accuracy.

Weber 2V TLD carburettor

11 Refer to the information relating to the Weber 2V DFTM carburettor for details, and to the accompanying illustration (see illustration) for the adjusting screws.

Weber (1V) TLM carburettor

12 Before carrying out this adjustment, ensure that the air cleaner is correctly fitted and that all vacuum hoses and pipes are securely connected and free from restrictions. Run the engine until it is at normal operating temperature. 13 Connect a reliable tachometer to the engine in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. 14 Increase the engine speed to 3000 rpm and hold it at this speed for 30 seconds, then allow the engine to idle. Adjust the idle speed to within the specified range by turning the idle speed screw (see illustration).

11 Mixture adjustment check

Note: Refer to the precautions given in Section 1 of Chapter 4 before proceeding. Note: Before carrying out any carburettor adjustments, ensure that the ignition timing and spark plug gaps are set as specified. To carry out the adjustments an accurate tachometer and an exhaust gas analyser (CO meter) will be required. Adjustment of the idle mixture setting should not be attempted in territories where this may cause a violation of exhaust emission regulations. Where these regulations are less stringent the following procedures may be used.

Ford 1V carburettor

1 Ensure that the air cleaner is correctly fitted and that all vacuum hoses and pipes are securely connected and free from restrictions, then run the engine until it is at normal operating temperature. 2 Using a small screwdriver, prise out the tamperproof plug (if fitted) over the idle mixture screw. 3 Connect the CO meter and tachometer according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

4 Adjust the idle speed to the specified setting. 5 Run the engine at 3000 rpm for 30 seconds

to clear the inlet manifold of excess fuel. Repeat this operation every 30 seconds during the adjustment procedure.

6 Turn the idle mixture screw in the desired direction to achieve the fastest possible engine speed consistent with smooth, even running or the correct specified CO reading on the meter scale. 7 If necessary, readjust the idle speed setting on completion. Fit a new tamperproof plug to the mixture screw.

Ford VV carburettor

8 This procedure must be carried out with the radiator cooling fan in operation. To keep the fan running during the adjustment procedure, disconnect the wiring multi-plug from the thermal switch (located in the thermostat housing) and bridge the two contacts in the plug with a short length of wire. Disconnect the wire and refit the multi-plug on completion of the adjustments. Make sure that the engine and ignition are switched off when connecting and disconnecting the bridging wire. 9 To adjust the mixture accurately, connect a CO (exhaust gas) analyser and a tachometer in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. 10 Ensure that the air cleaner is correctly fitted and that all vacuum hoses and pipes are securely connected and free from restrictions, then run the engine until it is at normal operating temperature. 11 Using a thin, sharp screwdriver, prise out the tamperproof plug which covers the mixture screw. 12 Start the engine and run it at 3000 rpm for 30 seconds, then allow it to return to idle. Turn the mixture screw in (weak) or out (rich) until the CO level is within the specified range as indicated on the analysing equipment. The adjustment must be carried out within 30 seconds; otherwise, again increase the engine speed for 30 seconds before continuing with the adjustment. 13 Once the mixture is correct, adjust the idle speed then recheck the mixture. 14 Switch off the engine and remove the tachometer and the exhaust gas analyser. Fit a new tamperproof plug to the mixture screw. 15 In the absence of a suitable exhaust gas analyser, an approximate setting of the mixture screw may be made by turning the screw inwards (engine idling) until the idle speed just begins to drop. Unscrew the screw

Every 6000 miles or 6 months 1•9

10.11 Weber 2V TLD carburettor mixture screw (A) and idle speed screw (B)

10.14 Weber (1V) TLM carburettor idle

speed screw (A) and mixture screw (B)

10.10 Weber 2V DFTM carburettor mixture screw (A) and idle speed screw (B)

10.7 Weber 2V carburettor idle speed screw (A) and mixture screw (B)

the smallest amount necessary to achieve smooth idle. The CO level of the exhaust gas should be checked by your dealer at the earliest opportunity and further adjustment carried out as may be necessary.

Weber 2V carburettor

16 Refer to the information relating to the Ford 1V carburettor for details. Ensure that the engine fan is operating by pulling the two wires from the sensor, and connecting the wires with a jumper lead.

Weber 2V DFTM carburettor

17 The cooling fan must be kept running during the adjustment procedure. To do this, disconnect the wiring multi-plug from the thermal switch (located in the thermostat housing) and bridge the two contacts in the plug with a short length of wire. 18 Ensure that the air cleaner is correctly fitted and that all vacuum hoses and pipes are securely connected and free from restrictions, then run the engine until it is at normal operating temperature. 19 Using a small screwdriver, prise out the tamperproof plug (if fitted) over the idle mixture screw. 20 Connect the CO meter and tachometer according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

21 Adjust the idle speed to the correct setting. 22 Run the engine at 3000 rpm for 30

seconds to clear the inlet manifold of excess fuel. Repeat this operation every 30 seconds during the adjustment procedure. 23 Turn the idle mixture screw in the desired direction to achieve the fastest possible engine speed consistent with smooth, even running; or the correct specified CO reading on the meter scale. 24 If necessary, readjust the idle speed setting. Refit the cooling fan multi-plug and fit a new tamperproof plug.

Weber 2V TLD carburettor

25 Refer to the information relating to the Weber 2V DFTM carburettor for details.

Weber (1V) TLM carburettor

26 Ensure that the air cleaner is correctly fitted and that all vacuum hoses and pipes are securely connected and free from restrictions, then run the engine until it is at normal operating temperature.

27 With the engine at normal operating temperature, connect a tachometer and exhaust gas analyser in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. 28 Prise out the tamperproof plug from the mixture screw hole in the throttle valve block. 29 Wait for the radiator cooling fan to operate, then raise the engine speed to 3000 rpm, hold it at this speed for 30 seconds, return to idle and check the exhaust CO level on the exhaust gas analyser. If it is not as specified, turn the mixture screw (clockwise to weaken) and repeat the checking procedure. 30 On completion, fit a new tamperproof plug.

12 Spark plug check

1 Pull the HT lead from each plug by grasping the end connector. Clean around each spark plug (see illustration). Remove each plug (see illustration) and check its electrode gap, which should be within the limits stated in Specifications. 2 To adjust the gap, bend the outer electrode with a proper spark plug gapping tool. Recheck the gap using feeler blades or wire gauges (see illustrations). 3 Note that the correct functioning of each plug is vital for the correct running and efficiency of the engine. It is essential that the plugs fitted are appropriate for the engine and the suitable type is specified at the beginning of this Chapter. Spark plug cleaning is rarely

necessary and should not be attempted unless specialised equipment is available as damage can easily be caused to the firing ends. 4 The appearance of a removed spark plug can give some indication of the condition or state of tune of the engine, but as modern engines run on a weaker fuel/air mixture in order to conform to current emission control regulations, a rather whiter appearance of the spark plug electrode area must be expected than was the case on older cars. As the mixture control is preset during production, a black appearance of the plug electrode will normally be due to oil passing worn piston rings or valve stem oil seals, unless the carburettor has been tampered with. 5 When installing the plugs use a long reach socket, apply a little grease to the threads of the plugs (see illustration)and tighten them only to the specified torque wrench setting. Overtightening may damage the plug or its seat.

1•10 Every 6000 miles or 6 months

12.1a Clean around each spark plug . . .

12.2a Measuring a spark plug electrode gap with a feeler blade

12.5 Lightly grease the spark plug threads before fitting

12.2c Adjusting a spark plug electrode gap with a special tool

12.2b Measuring a spark plug electrode gap with a wire gauge

12.1b . . . before using a socket to remove the spark plugs

13 HT lead, distributor cap and

ignition circuit check

1 Clean each HT lead by wiping along its length with a fuel-moistened cloth and inspect it for damage. 2 Note the fitted position of each lead before disconnection (see illustrations). When removing a lead from a spark plug or the HT coil, pull the lead off by its rubber connector

(see illustration). 3 The socket contacts on the distributor cap

should be cleaned if they appear corroded (see illustration). A smear of petroleum jelly (not grease) applied to the ferrule on the end of the HT lead will help to prevent corrosion.

4 Remove the distributor cap and rotor arm. 5 Examine the rotor arm and inside of the

distributor cap . If the contacts are corroded or are excessively burnt, or if the carbon centre contact in the cap is worn away, renew the cap or rotor, as necessary. Check carefully for hairline cracks and signs of arcing. Make sure that the HT leads are reinstalled in their correct firing order. 6 Check that all HT and LT electrical leads are correctly routed and clear of all moving or hot engine components. Ensure that all lead connections are secure and where applicable, protected.

14 Hinge and lock check and

lubrication

1 Work around the vehicle, and lubricate the bonnet, door and tailgate hinges with a light machine oil. 2 Lightly lubricate the bonnet release mechanism and exposed sections of inner cable with a smear of grease. 3 Check the security and operation of all hinges, latches and locks, adjusting them where required. 4 Check the condition and operation of the tailgate struts, renewing them if either is leaking or is no longer able to support the tailgate securely when raised.

15 Ignition timing and contact

breaker gap (dwell angle) check - OHV engines

Contact breaker gap (dwell angle)

1 Access to the distributor is improved by removing the air cleaner unit. 2 Prise down the distributor cap retaining clips or remove the securing screws, as appropriate. Remove the distributor cap and rotor.

3 Apply a spanner to the crankshaft pulley bolt and turn the crankshaft until the distributor points are fully open, with the heel of the cam follower on the highest point of one of the lobes of the cam.

4 Using feeler blades, check the points gap (see illustration). If the blade is not a sliding

fit, release the screw at the fixed contact so that the contact will move and adjust the gap to that specified. Retighten the screw, refit the rotor and cap. Take care not to contaminate the points with oil from the feeler blades. 5 This method of adjustment should be regarded as second best as on modern engines, setting the points gap is usually carried out by measuring the dwell angle. 6 The dwell angle is the number of degrees through which the distributor cam turns during the period between the instants of closure and opening of the contact breaker points. Checking the dwell angle not only gives a more accurate setting of the contact breaker gap, but this method also evens out any variations in the gap which could be caused by pitting of the points, wear in the distributor shaft or its bushes, or difference in height of any of the cam peaks. 7 The dwell angle should be checked with a dwell meter connected in accordance with the maker’s instructions. Refer to the Specifications for the correct dwell angle. If the dwell angle is too large, increase the points gap. If it is too small, reduce the gap.

Every 6000 miles or 6 months 1•11

13.2c Pull the HT lead connector - not the lead

15.4 Checking the contact breaker points gap using a feeler blade

13.3 Inspect each HT lead end ferrule for corrosion

13.2b HT lead connections - CVH engines13.2a HT lead connections - OHV engines

8 The dwell angle should always be adjusted before checking and adjusting the ignition timing, as follows:

Ignition timing

9 Before checking the timing, check and adjust the dwell angle with the engine at normal operating temperature. 10 Increase the contrast of the notch in the crankshaft pulley and the appropriate mark on the timing index (refer to Specifications) by applying quick-drying white paint (see

illustration). 11 Connect a timing light (stroboscope) in

accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions.

12 Start the engine and allow it to idle. 13 Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the

distributor and plug the pipe with a piece of rod. 14 If the timing light is now directed at the engine timing marks, the pulley notch will appear to be stationary and opposite the

specified mark on the scale. If the marks are not in alignment, release the distributor clamp pinch-bolt (see illustration) and turn the distributor in whichever direction is necessary to align the marks. 15 Retighten the pinch-bolt, switch off the engine, remove the timing light and reconnect the vacuum pipe. 16 It may now be necessary to check and adjust the engine idle speed if the distributor setting has to be varied to any extent.

16 Throttle damper operation

check

1 To check the operation of the throttle damper fitted to models equipped with a Ford VV carburettor, proceed as follows: 2 Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature, then switch off. Connect a tachometer in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. To keep the fan

running during the adjustment procedure, disconnect the wiring multi-plug from the thermal switch (located in the thermostat housing) and bridge the two contacts in the plug with a short length of wire. 3 Start the engine and increase its speed to 3200 ± 150 rpm by means of the idle speed adjustment screw. When the speed has stabilised, switch off the engine. 4 Rotate the secondary throttle lever clockwise to remove any play between the primary and secondary throttle levers, but ensure that the primary lever does not move. 5 Using a feeler blade, unscrew the damper until a clearance of 0.1 to 0.3 mm exists between the damper plunger and the secondary throttle lever (see illustration). Hold the damper in this position and tighten the locknut. 6 Start the engine and return the idle speed to the specified rpm. Disconnect the tachometer and bridging wire, refit the multi-plug, then refit the air cleaner.

17 Battery terminal check

1 To clean the battery terminals disconnect them, negative earth first, after having first removed the cover (where fitted). Use a wire brush or abrasive paper to clean the terminals. Bad corrosion should be treated

with a solution of bicarbonate of soda, applied with an old toothbrush. Do not let this solution get inside the battery. 2 Coat the battery terminals with petroleum jelly or a proprietary anti-corrosive compound before reconnecting them (see illustration). Reconnect and tighten the positive (live) lead first, followed by the negative (earth) lead. Do not overtighten.

18 Engine valve clearance

check - OHV engines

1 This operation should be carried out with the engine cold and the air cleaner, spark plugs and rocker cover removed. 2 Using a ring spanner or socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt, turn the crankshaft in a clockwise direction until No 1 piston is at top dead centre (TDC) on its compression stroke. This can be verified by checking that the pulley and timing cover marks are in

1•12 Every 6000 miles or 6 months

15.10 Ignition timing marks - mechanical ignition system

A Crankshaft pulley notch B Timing cover scale

16.5 Setting throttle damper clearance using a feeler blade (arrowed) -

Ford VV carburettor

17.2 Protect each battery terminal before reconnection

15.14 Distributor clamp plate pinch-bolt (arrowed)

12 000 Mile (20 000 Km) / 12 Month Service

To keep corrosion to a minimum, coat the battery terminals with petroleum jelly or a proprietary anti-

corrosive compound.

When checking valve clearances, it will be easier to turn the engine by hand if

the spark plugs are removed but take care not to allow dirt to enter the spark plug holes.

Warning: Before carrying out any work on the vehicle battery, read through the precautions given in “Safety first!” at the

beginning of this manual.

alignment and that the valves of No 4 cylinder are rocking. When the valves are rocking, this means that the slightest rotation of the crankshaft pulley in either direction will cause one rocker arm to move up and the other to move down. 3 Numbering from the thermostat housing end of the cylinder head, the valves are identified as follows:

Valve No Cylinder no

1 - Exhaust 1 2 - Inlet 1 3 - Exhaust 2 4 - Inlet 2 5 - Exhaust 3 6 - Inlet 3 7 - Exhaust 4 8 - Inlet 4

4 Adjust the valve clearances by following the sequence given in the following table. Turn the crankshaft pulley 180° (half a turn) after adjusting each pair:

Valves rocking Valves to adjust

7 and 8 1 (Exhaust), 2 (Inlet) 5 and 6 3 (Exhaust), 4 (Inlet) 1 and 2 7 (Exhaust), 8 (Inlet) 3 and 4 5 (Exhaust), 6 (Inlet)

5 The clearances for the inlet and exhaust valves are different (see Specifications). Use a feeler blade of the appropriate thickness to check each clearance between the end of the valve stem and the rocker arm. The blade should be a stiff sliding fit. If it is not, turn the adjuster bolt with a ring spanner. These bolts are of stiff thread type and require no locking nut. Turn the bolt clockwise to reduce the clearance and anti-clockwise to increase it

(see illustration). 6 Refit the rocker cover, spark plugs and air

cleaner on completion of adjustment.

19 Handbrake check

Pre-September 1985 models

1 Adjustment of the handbrake is normally automatic by means of the self-adjusting mechanism working on the rear brake shoes. 2 However, due to cable stretch, checking of the handbrake adjustment is recommended. Adjustment must be carried out if the movement of the lever becomes excessive (more than six notches). Proceed as follows: 3 Chock the front wheels then fully release the handbrake. 4 Raise and support the vehicle at the rear with safety stands. 5 On adjustment check that the plunger protrudes from each rear brake backplate (see illustration), their respective length of movement indicating the handbrake adjustment condition. Before checking their movement (stroke) length, firmly apply the footbrake to ensure that the automatic adjuster mechanism is fully actuated. 6 Now check the plunger stroke movement. If the total movement of both sides added

together is between 0.5 and 3.0 mm then adjustment is satisfactory. This should give three to six clicks (notches) of handbrake application movement. If there is no measurable plunger movement or if the total measurement exceeds that specified adjust as follows. 7 Loosen the handbrake cable locknut, then rotate the adjuster sleeve (see illustration) so that the plungers can just rotate and the total movement of both plungers is as specified above. 8 Hand tighten the locknut against the sleeve so that two engagement clicks are felt, then further tighten another two clicks using a suitable wrench.

Models from September 1985

9 Proceed as above, noting that since September 1985 a locking pin has been fitted to the cable adjuster abutment bracket to lock the adjuster sleeve and locknut together. 10 Should it be necessary to adjust the cable, the locking pin must be removed by pulling it out using pliers (see illustration). After adjustment a new nylon locking pin must be used and can be fitted by carefully tapping it into place.

Every 12 000 miles or 12 months 1•13

19.10 Removing the handbrake cable adjuster locking pin

19.7 Handbrake cable assembly

A Primary cable B Equaliser

C Adjuster sleeve D Locknut

E Secondary cable

19.5 Handbrake adjustment indicator plunger

18.5 Adjusting a valve clearance - OHV

20 Auxiliary drivebelt check

Inspection

1 Check the full length of the drivebelt for cracks and deterioration. It will be necessary to turn the engine in order to check that portion of the drivebelt is in contact with the pulleys. 2 Check that the total deflection of the auxiliary drivebelt is 4.0 mm at the mid point of its longest run (see illustration). 3 Note that if the belt is too slack, it will slip and soon become glazed or burnt and the coolant pump (OHV) and alternator will not perform correctly, with consequent overheating of the engine and low battery charge. If the belt is too tight, the bearings in the alternator and/or coolant pump will soon be damaged. 4 If necessary, renew or tension the belt as follows:

Renewal

5 To remove a belt, slacken the alternator mounting bolts and the bolts on the adjuster link (see illustration), push the alternator in towards the engine and slip the belt from the pulleys. 6 Fit the belt by slipping it over the pulley rims while the alternator is still loose on its mountings. Never be tempted to remove or fit a belt by prising it over a pulley without releasing the alternator. Either the pulley will be damaged or the alternator or coolant pump will be distorted.

Tensioning

7 To change the belt tension, pull the alternator away from the engine until the belt is fairly taut and nip up the adjuster strap bolt. A little trial and error may be required to obtain the correct tension. 8 Do not lever against the body of the alternator to tension the belt or damage may occur. 9 Recheck the tension of the drivebelt after the engine has been run for ten minutes.

21 Spark plug renewal

1 The correct functioning of the spark plugs is vital for the correct running and efficiency of the engine. It is essential that the plugs fitted are of the type appropriate for the engine. 2 Make sure that the ignition is switched off before inspecting the HT leads to see if they carry their cylinder numbers - if not, number each lead using sticky tape or paint. 3 Where necessary, for improved access, remove the air cleaner assembly. 4 Disconnect the leads from the plugs by pulling on the connectors, not the leads. 5 Clean the area around each spark plug using a small brush, then using a plug spanner (preferably with a rubber insert),

unscrew and remove the plugs. Cover each exposed spark plug hole with a clean rag to prevent the ingress of any foreign matter. 6 Before fitting new spark plugs, check that the threaded connector sleeves are tight. 7 Check the electrode gap of each plug with a feeler blade of the specified thickness and if necessary, bend the outer electrode with a proper spark plug gapping tool to set the gap to the specified clearance. 8 Coat the threads of each plug with suitable anti-seize compound, taking care not to contaminate the electrodes. 9 Screw in the spark plugs by hand, then tighten them to the specified torque. Do not

exceed the torque figure.

10 Push the HT leads firmly onto the spark plugs and where necessary, refit the air cleaner assembly.

22 Gearbox oil level check

Caution: Gearbox oil can foam when hot and give a false level reading. Allow the gearbox to cool before checking the oil level.

Note: Regular oil changing is not specified by the manufacturers but the gearbox oil can be drained if necessary (prior to removal of the unit or after traversing a flooded road for example) by removing the selector shaft locking mechanism (see illustration).

1 The following procedure should be adopted when checking the oil level on all gearbox types. 2 Ensure that the car is standing on level ground and the gearbox is cool. 3 Unscrew the filler plug from the front face of the gearbox. The plug is of socket-headed type and a suitable key will be required for removal (see illustration). 4 With the plug removed, check the oil level. To do this accurately, make up an oil level check dipstick from a short length of welding rod or similar material. Make a 90° bend in the rod, then mark the downward leg in 5 mm increments. The dipstick is then inserted through the filler plug orifice so that the unmarked leg rests flat on the plug orifice

1•14 Every 12 000 miles or 12 months

20.2 Auxiliary drivebelt tension checking point - OHV

22.3 Gearbox oil filler plug location (arrowed)

22.0 Remove the selector shaft locking mechanism to drain the gearbox oil

A Selector shaft

cap nut

B Spring C Interlock pin

20.5 Alternator adjuster and mounting bolts - OHV

A Adjuster link clamp bolt B Adjuster link-to-block bolt C Lower front mounting bolt D Lower rear mounting bolt

Number each HT lead using sticky tape or paint before removal so as to avoid confusion when refitting.

threads, with the marked leg dipped in the oil. Withdraw the dipstick and read off the level of oil. 5 On gearboxes manufactured up to August 1985 the oil level must be maintained between 5 and 10 mm below the lower edge of the filler plug hole. 6 On gearboxes manufactured from September 1985 onwards the oil level must be maintained between 0 and 5 mm below the lower edge of the filler plug hole. 7 To determine the date of gearbox manufacture, locate the aluminium build code tag which will be attached to one of the gearbox housing retaining bolts. The gearbox part number is stamped on the tag and if the last letter of the part number suffix is a “D”, then the gearbox is of the early type. If the last letter of the suffix is an “E”, then the gearbox is of the later type. 8 Top-up the gearbox with the specified type of oil if necessary until the level is correct for the gearbox type (see “Lubricants and fluids”). Take care not to overfill the unit as this can lead to excessive heat build-up, increased leakage and impaired gear changing.

9 On completion, refit the filler plug.

23 Contact breaker point

renewal and distributor lubrication - OHV engines

1 If necessary, remove the air cleaner assembly to allow ready access to the distributor. Identify and disconnect the leads from the spark plugs, prise down the distributor cap clips or remove the screws, and place the cap and leads to one side.

2 Remove the rotor arm. 3 Pull off the contact breaker LT lead from the points (see illustration). 4 Unscrew and remove the screw from the

fixed contact arm. Take great care not to drop the screw into the interior of the distributor: if necessary, cover the openings in the

baseplate with rag before starting to remove the screw. 5 With the screw removed, lift out the contact breaker assembly. 6 Fit and adjust the new contact breaker set, leaving the securing screw loose until the gap has been set. 7 Apply a little high melting-point grease to the distributor cam. (Grease may be supplied with the new contact breaker set.) 8 Refit the rotor arm and the distributor cap and reconnect the spark plug leads in their previously noted location. 9 Check and adjust the dwell angle and the ignition timing.

24 Steering and suspension

security check

1 Check the shock absorbers by bouncing the vehicle up and down at each corner in turn. When released, it should come to rest within one complete oscillation. Continued movement, or squeaking and groaning noises from the shock absorber suggests that renewal is required. 2 With the weight of the vehicle on its roadwheels, inspect all of the suspension

flexible bushes for wear and check the torque wrench settings of all bolts and nuts. 3 Raise and support the vehicle. Examine all steering and suspension components for wear, damage and fluid leakage. Pay particular attention to dust covers and gaiters (see illustration), which if renewed promptly when damaged can save further damage to the component protected. 4 At the same intervals, check the front suspension lower arm balljoints for wear by levering up the arms (see illustration). Balljoint free movement must not exceed 0.5 mm. The track rod end balljoints can be checked in a similar manner, or by observing them whilst an assistant rocks the steering wheel back and forth. If the lower arm balljoint is worn, the complete lower arm must be renewed. 5 Wheel bearings can be checked for wear by spinning the relevant roadwheel. Any roughness or excessive noise indicates worn bearings, which must be renewed, as no adjustment is possible. It is unlikely that any wear will be evident unless the vehicle has covered a very high mileage. It should be noted that it is normal for the bearings to exhibit slight endfloat, which is perceptible as wheel rock at the wheel rim.

25 Underbody inspection

1 Except on vehicles with a wax-based underbody protective coating, have the whole of the underframe of the vehicle steamcleaned, engine compartment included, so that a thorough inspection can be carried out to see what minor repairs and renovations are necessary. 2 Steam-cleaning is available at many garages and is necessary for the removal of the accumulation of oily grime which sometimes is allowed to become thick in

Every 12 000 miles or 12 months 1•15

24.4 Apply leverage to check for excessive balljoint wear

24.3 Inspect the steering rack bellows23.3 Contact breaker points removal

A LT lead connector B Securing screw

C Vacuum advance strut

circlip

certain areas. If steam-cleaning facilities are not available, there are some excellent grease solvents available, which can be brushapplied; the dirt can then be simply hosed off. 3 After cleaning, position the vehicle over a pit, or raise it at front and rear on ramps or axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”). 4 Using a strong light, work around the underside of the vehicle, inspecting it for corrosion or damage. If either is found, refer to Chapter 11 for details of repair.

26 Brake pipe and hose check

1 Periodically inspect the rigid brake pipes for rust and other damage, and the flexible hoses for cracks, splits or “ballooning” (see illustration). Have an assistant depress the brake pedal (ignition on) and inspect the hose and pipe unions for leaks. Renew any defective item without delay.

27 Road test

Instruments and electrical equipment

1 Check the operation of all instruments and electrical equipment. 2 Make sure that all instruments read correctly, switch on all electrical equipment in turn to check that it functions properly.

Steering and suspension

3 Check for any abnormalities in the steering, suspension, handling or road “feel”. 4 Drive the vehicle, and check that there are no unusual vibrations or noises. 5 Check that the steering feels positive, with no excessive “sloppiness”, or roughness, and check for any suspension noises when cornering, or when driving over bumps.

Drivetrain

6 Check the performance of the engine, clutch, transmission and driveshafts. 7 Listen for any unusual noises from the engine, clutch and transmission. 8 Make sure that the engine runs smoothly when idling, and that there is no hesitation when accelerating. 9 Where applicable, check that the clutch action is smooth and progressive, that the drive is taken up smoothly, and that the pedal travel is not excessive. Also listen for any noises when the clutch pedal is depressed. 10 Check that all gears can be engaged smoothly, without noise, and that the gear lever action is not abnormally vague or “notchy”.

Check the operation and performance of the braking system

11 Make sure that the vehicle does not pull to one side when braking, and that the wheels do not lock prematurely when braking hard. 12 Check that there is no vibration through the steering when braking. 13 Check that the handbrake operates correctly, without excessive movement of the

lever, and that it holds the vehicle stationary on a slope. 14 Test the operation of the brake servo unit as follows. With the engine off, depress the footbrake four or five times to exhaust the vacuum. Start the engine, holding the brake pedal depressed. As the engine starts, there should be a noticeable “give” in the brake pedal as vacuum builds up. Allow the engine to run for at least two minutes, and then switch it off. If the brake pedal is depressed now, it should be possible to detect a hiss from the servo as the pedal is depressed. After about four or five applications, no further hissing should be heard, and the pedal should feel considerably firmer.

28 Crankcase ventilation

system check

1 Inspect the crankcase ventilation system for blockage or damage. A blocked hose can cause a build-up of crankcase pressure, which in turn can cause oil leaks. 2 Inspect each hose for distortion, perishing and correct routing. 3 Clean the oil filler cap with solvent and check that the vent hose connections are not blocked (see illustration). 4 Clean the emission control orifice located in the oil filler assembly with solvent (see illustration).

1•16 Every 12 000 miles or 12 months

26.1 Bend flexible brake hoses to check for splitting and decay

28.4 Clean emission control orifice in solvent - OHV shown

28.3 Oil filler cap and breather hoses

29 Air cleaner temperature

control check

Note: A vacuum pump will be required for this check if the heat sensor or diaphragm unit is at fault.

1 The air cleaner temperature control unit can be checked for operation whilst the engine is cold. Look into the air inlet spout and check that the air control flap valve is in the shut position (see illustration). 2 Now start the engine and allow it to idle. The flap valve should open fully to allow the warm air to be drawn into the cleaner unit from the exhaust manifold ducting. As the engine warms up to its normal operating temperature the flap valve should progressively close to allow cooler air to enter the cleaner unit. 3 If the valve is stuck in the shut position, check the vacuum lines for condition and security. If these are in order, then the heat sensor or diaphragm unit is at fault. Proceed as follows: 4 Detach the diaphragm-to-heat sensor vacuum pipe (at the sensor end) and connect up a vacuum pump to the diaphragm. Pump and apply a vacuum up to 100 mm of mercury and retain this whilst checking the air flap. 5 If the flap opens, the heat sensor is defective and must be renewed, but if it remains shut then the diaphragm or control flap is faulty. 6 Disconnect the vacuum pump and reconnect the vacuum pipe to the sensor unit.

30 Emission control filter

element renewal - CVH

engines

1 Gain access to the emission control filter by detaching the hose from the air cleaner unit

(see illustration).

2 Withdraw the used filter and fit a new item.

Ensure that the hose is securely reconnected.

31 Air cleaner element renewal

1 Renew the air cleaner element by first removing the air cleaner unit lid. To do this, undo and remove the retaining screws and prise free the lid from the retaining clips around its periphery (see illustration). 2 Remove and discard the paper element and wipe out the air cleaner casing (see

illustration). 3 Place the new element in position and refit

the lid.

32 Brake hydraulic system seal

and hose renewal

If in doubt as to the condition of any of the brake system seals and hoses, then renew defective items whilst referring to the relevant Sections of Chapter 9.

33 Brake hydraulic fluid renewal

1 An assistant and bleeding equipment will be needed. A considerable quantity of hydraulic fluid will be required - probably about 2 litres.

2 Slacken the front wheel nuts. Raise and support the front of the vehicle and remove the front wheels.

3 Remove the hydraulic fluid reservoir cap. 4 Open both front bleed screws one full turn.

Attach one bleed tube to each screw, placing the free end of each tube in a jar. 5 Pump the brake pedal to expel fluid from the bleed screws. Pause after each upstroke to allow the master cylinder to refill.

Every 24 000 miles or 2 years 1•17

31.1 Remove the air cleaner lid securing screws . . .

30.1 Detach hose downwards for access to crankcase emission filter in air cleaner

body

29.1 Air cleaner inlet sensor and

diaphragm flap valve operating modes

1 Sensor cold 2 Sensor hot

24 000 Mile (40 000 Km) / every 2 years

36 000 Mile (60 000 Km) / every 3 years

31.2 . . . to expose the air cleaner element

6 When air emerges from both bleed screws,

stop pumping. Detach the left-hand caliper without disconnecting it and remove the inboard brake pad. 7 Depress the caliper piston, using a purpose-made tool or a blunt item such as a tyre lever, to force more fluid out of the caliper. Hold the piston depressed and have the assistant pump the pedal until air emerges from the bleed screw again. 8 Tighten the bleed screw on the left-hand caliper. Loosely refit the caliper and pad so that the piston is not accidentally ejected. 9 Repeat the purging operation on the righthand caliper, but do not refit it or tighten the bleed screw yet. 10 Fill the reservoir with fresh hydraulic fluid. Position the bleed jar for the right-hand caliper at least 300 mm above the level of the bleed screw. 11 Have the assistant pump the brake pedal until fluid free of bubbles emerges from the bleed screw. Tighten the bleed screw at the end of a downstroke.

12 Place a piece of wood in the caliper jaws to limit piston travel. Keep your fingers clear of the piston. Have the assistant depress the brake pedal gently in order to move the caliper piston out. 13 With the pedal held depressed, slacken the bleed screw on the right-hand caliper and again depress the piston. Tighten the bleed screw when the piston is retracted. The pedal can now be released. 14 Disconnect the bleed tube. Refit the righthand brake pad and caliper. 15 Remove the left-hand caliper and inboard pad again. Carry out the operations described in paragraphs 10 to 14 on the left-hand caliper. 16 Bleed the rear brakes as described in Chapter 9. 17 Refit the front wheels, lower the vehicle and tighten the wheel nuts. 18 Pump the brake pedal to bring the pads up to the discs, then make a final check of the hydraulic fluid level. Top-up and refit the reservoir cap.

34 Timing belt renewal - CVH

engines

Timing belt renewal is recommended for CVH engines. Refer to Chapter 2, Part B for the appropriate renewal procedure.

35 Front wheel alignment check

Due to the need for precision equipment to accurately measure the small angles of the steering and suspension settings appertaining to front wheel alignment, it is preferable to leave this work to a specialist. However, if you wish to check front wheel alignment yourself, refer to the information given in Chapter 10.

36 Engine coolant renewal

Draining

1 It is preferable to drain the system when the coolant is cold. If it must be drained when hot, release the pressure cap very slowly having first covered it with a cloth to avoid any possibility of scalding. 2 Set the heater control to maximum heat position. 3 Place a container under the radiator and release the bottom hose or, where fitted, unscrew the radiator drain plug and allow the system to drain into the container (see illustrations).

Flushing

4 Provided the coolant is of the specified type, then no flushing should be necessary. 5 Where the system has been neglected

however, and rust or sludge is evident at draining, then the system should be flushed through with a cold water hose inserted into the thermostat housing (thermostat removed) until the water flows clean from the disconnected bottom hose and the radiator. If, after a reasonable period, the water still does not run clear the radiator can be flushed with a good proprietary cleaning agent. 6 In severe cases, the drain plug on the cylinder block of OHV models can be unscrewed to assist sludge removal and flushing (see illustration). On CVH models there is no drain plug on the cylinder block so you will need to detach the bottom hose. 7 If the radiator is suspected of being clogged, remove it and reverse flush it with a cold water hose. The normal coolant flow is from left to right (from the thermostat housing to the radiator) through the matrix and out of the opposite side. 8 When the coolant is being changed, it is recommended that the overflow pipe is disconnected from the expansion tank and

the coolant drained from the tank. If the interior of the tank is dirty, remove it and thoroughly clean it out. Evidence of oil within the expansion tank may indicate a leaking cylinder head gasket.

Refilling

9 Reconnect the radiator and expansion tank hoses, and refit the cylinder block drain plug (OHV), or connect the bottom hose (CVH), as applicable. 10 Using the specified antifreeze (see “Lubricants and fluids”), fill the system via the expansion tank, until the coolant level reaches the “maximum” mark. Allow time for air in the system to bubble through and add more coolant if necessary. Repeat until the level does not drop and refit the cap. 11 Start the engine and run it to normal operating temperature. Once it has cooled, check and carry out any final topping-up to the expansion tank.

1•18 Every 36 000 miles or 3 years

36.6 The cylinder block drain plug (arrowed) - OHV

36.3b The radiator bottom hose clamp36.3a The radiator drain plug (arrowed)

Every 2 years (regardless of mileage)

General

Engine type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Four-cylinder, overhead valve, water-cooled

1.0 litre 1.1 litre

Firing order (No 1 at timing cover end) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-2-4-3 1-2-4-3

Bore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73.96 mm 73.96 mm

Stroke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55.70 mm 64.98 mm

Cubic capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 957 cc 1117 cc

Compression ratio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.5 : 1 9.5 : 1

Compression pressure at starter speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.5 to 11.5 kgf/cm

13.3 to 15.3 kgf/cm

Idle speed (rpm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 750 to 850 750 to 850

Maximum continuous engine speed (rpm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5950 5450

Engine output (DIN) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 kW at 5750 rpm 37 kW at 5000 rpm

Engine torque (DIN) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.9 kgf m at 3700 rpm 8.4 kgf m at 2700 rpm

Cylinder block

Number of main bearings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Cylinder bore diameter:

Standard (1) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73.940 to 73.950 mm

Standard (2) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73.950 to 73.960 mm

Standard (3) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73.960 to 73.970 mm

Standard (4) and service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73.970 to 73.980 mm

Oversizes:

0.5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74.500 to 74.510 mm

1.0 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75.000 to 75.010 mm

Main bearing bore:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60.623 to 60.636 mm

Oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61.003 to 61.016 mm

Camshaft bearing bore:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.888 to 42.918 mm

Oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43.396 to 43.420 mm

Central main bearing width (less thrustwashers) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22.04 to 22.10 mm

Crankshaft

Endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.072 to 0.285 mm

Main journal diameter:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56.990 to 57.000 mm

Yellow dot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56.980 to 56.990 mm

0.254 undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56.726 to 56.746 mm

0.508 undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56.472 to 56.492 mm

0.762 undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56.218 to 56.238 mm

Chapter 2 Part A:

OHV engine repair procedures

Crankshaft front oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Cylinder head - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

Cylinder head and pistons - decarbonising . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15

Engine - dismantling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

Engine - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

Engine - reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16

Engine/transmission mountings - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . .11

Engine/transmission - reconnection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17

Engine/transmission - removal and separation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1

Oil filter and pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10

Operations only possible with engine removed from vehicle . . . . . . . .3

Operations possible without removing engine from vehicle . . . . . . . . .2

Pistons/connecting rods - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9

Rocker gear - dismantling and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

Sump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

Valve clearances - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

2A•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable for

novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Crankshaft (continued)

Main bearing shell width . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21.2 to 21.6 mm

Main bearing shell play . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.009 to 0.046 mm

Crankpin (big-end) diameter:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.99 to 43.01 mm

0.254 undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.74 to 42.76 mm

0.508 undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.49 to 42.51 mm

0.762 undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.24 to 42.26 mm

Thrustwasher thicknesses:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.80 to 2.85 mm

Oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.99 to 3.04 mm

Camshaft

Number of bearings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Camshaft bearing diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39.615 to 39.635 mm

Bearing bush inside diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39.662 to 39.682 mm

Camshaft thrust plate thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.457 to 4.508 mm

Camshaft endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.062 to 0.193 mm

Cam lift:

Inlet valve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.300 mm

Exhaust valve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.300 mm

Cam length (heel to toe):

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32.288 to 32.516 mm

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32.615 to 32.846 mm

Pistons

Diameter:

Standard (1) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73.910 to 73.920 mm

Standard (2) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73.920 to 73.930 mm

Standard (3) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73.930 to 73.940 mm

Standard (4) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73.940 to 73.950 mm

Standard service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73.930 to 73.955 mm

0.5 oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74.460 to 74.485 mm

1.0 oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74.960 to 74.985 mm

Piston-to-bore clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.015 to 0.050 mm

Piston ring gap (fitted):

Top and 2nd rings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.25 to 0.45 mm

Bottom ring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.20 to 0.40 mm

Bottom (oil control) ring gap position . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . In line with gudgeon pin

2nd ring gap position . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90° to oil control ring gap

Top ring gap position . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180° to oil control ring gap

Gudgeon pins

Pin length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54.6 to 55.4 mm

Pin diameters:

White . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.622 to 20.625 mm

Red . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.625 to 20.628 mm

Blue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.628 to 20.631 mm

Yellow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.631 to 20.634 mm

Connecting rod interference at 21°C (70°F) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.013 to 0.045 mm

Pin-to-piston interference at 21°C (70°F) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.005 to 0.011 mm

Connecting rods

Big-end bore diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46.685 to 46.705 mm

Small-end bore diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.589 to 20.609 mm

Bearing shell inside diameter (fitted):

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43.016 to 43.050 mm

0.254 undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.768 to 42.802 mm

0.508 undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.518 to 42.552 mm

0.762 undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.268 to 42.302 mm

1.016 undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.018 to 42.052 mm

Journal-to-bearing shell clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.006 to 0.060 mm

Cylinder head

Valve seat angle (inlet and exhaust) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45°

Valve seat width (inlet and exhaust) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.20 to 1.75 mm

Lower correction angle (inlet and exhaust) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30°

Upper correction angle (inlet and exhaust) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80°

Upper correction angle - service cutter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75°

Valve stem bore (inlet and exhaust):

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.907 to 7.938 mm

0.381 oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.288 to 8.319 mm

2A•2 OHV engine repair procedures

Valves

Clearances . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Servicing Specifications in Chapter 1

Tappet diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13.081 to 13.094 mm

Tappet clearance in cylinder block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.25 to 20.75 mm

Valve spring free length (inlet and exhaust) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 mm

Valve lift (excluding clearance) (inlet and exhaust) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.367 mm

Valve head diameter:

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32.89 to 33.15 mm

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29.01 to 29.27 mm

Valve stem diameter:

Inlet valves:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.868 to 7.886 mm

0.076 oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.944 to 7.962 mm

0.381 oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.249 to 8.267 mm

Exhaust valves:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.846 to 7.864 mm

0.076 oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.922 to 7.940 mm

0.381 oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.227 to 8.245 mm

Valve stem-to-guide clearance:

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.021 to 0.070 mm

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.043 to 0.092 mm

Valve timing:

Inlet valve opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14° BTDC

Inlet valve closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46° ABDC

Exhaust valve opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65° BBDC

Exhaust valve closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11° ATDC

Lubrication system

Minimum oil pressure at 80°C (175°F) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.6 kgf/cm2at 750 rpm

Warning light operates at . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.32 to 0.53 kgf/cm

Relief valve opening pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.41 to 2.75 kgf/cm

Oil pump clearances:

Outer rotor-to-housing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.14 to 0.26 mm

Inner-to-outer rotor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.051 to 0.127 mm

Rotors-to-cover endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.025 to 0.06 mm

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Main bearing cap bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 70

Connecting rod (big-end) bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 23

Rear oil seal retainer bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 13

Flywheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 50

Chain tensioner bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6

Camshaft thrust plate bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 3

Camshaft sprocket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 14

Timing cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Coolant pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Crankshaft pulley bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 40

Coolant pump pulley bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Starter motor bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 30

Fuel pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 13

Oil pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 14

Sump drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Sump fixing bolts:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 8

Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 8

Oil pressure sender . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11

Coolant temperature sender . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11

Rocker shaft pedestal bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 31

Cylinder head bolts:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 35

Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 65

Stage 4 (after 15 minutes delay) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109 80

Rocker cover screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 3

Exhaust manifold nuts and bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 12

Inlet manifold nuts and bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 14

Carburettor flange nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 14

Thermostat housing cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 14

Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 14

Engine-to-transmission bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 30

Transmission oil filler plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

OHV engine repair procedures 2A•3

1 General information

The engine is of an overhead valve type based upon the “Kent” design used in many earlier Ford models. It is mounted transversely at the front of the vehicle together with the transmission to form a combined power train.

The engine is a water-cooled, four-cylinder in-line type, having overhead valves operated by tappets, pushrods and rocker arms. The camshaft is located within the cylinder block and chain-driven from the crankshaft. A gear on the camshaft drives the oil pump and the distributor, whilst a cam operates the fuel pump lever.

The cylinder head is of crossflow type, having the exhaust manifold mounted on the opposite side to the inlet manifold. The crankshaft runs in three main bearings, with endfloat controlled by semi-circular thrustwashers located on either side of the centre main bearing.

The oil pump is mounted externally on the cylinder block just below the distributor, and the full-flow type oil filter is screwed directly into the oil pump.

2 Operations possible without

removing engine from vehicle

1 The following work can be carried out

without having to remove the engine:

a) Cylinder head - removal and refitting b) Valve clearances - adjustment c) Sump - removal and refitting d) Rocker gear - overhaul e) Crankshaft front oil seal - renewal f) Pistons/connecting rods - removal and

refitting g) Engine mountings - renewal h) Oil filter - removal and refitting i) Oil pump - removal and refitting

3 Operations only possible

with engine removed from vehicle

1 The following work should be carried out

only after the engine has been removed from the vehicle.

a) *Crankshaft main bearings - renewal b) Crankshaft - removal and refitting c) **Flywheel - removal and refitting d) **Crankshaft rear oil seal - renewal e) Camshaft - removal and refitting f) Timing gears and chain - removal and

refitting

2 Although it is possible to undertake the job marked * without removing the engine, and those marked ** by removing the transmission, such work is not recommended and is unlikely to save much time over that required to withdraw the complete engine/ transmission.

4 Cylinder head - removal and

refitting

Removal

1 If the engine is in the vehicle, carry out the preliminary operations described in paragraphs 2 to 15. 2 Open the bonnet and fit protective covers to the front wing upper surfaces. 3 Disconnect the battery earth strap. It is as well to remove the battery, so that no metal objects are placed across its terminals.

4 Remove the air cleaner unit. 5 Drain the cooling system. Note that the

coolant should have an antifreeze solution mix and can be used again, so drain into a suitable container for re-use. 6 Disconnect the hoses from the thermostat housing.

7 Detach the choke cable. 8 Release the throttle cable from the

carburettor operating lever by moving the spring clip and removing the bracket fixing bolt (see illustration). 9 Disconnect the fuel and vacuum pipes from the carburettor. 10 Disconnect the breather hose from the inlet manifold. 11 On vehicles with servo-assisted brakes, disconnect the vacuum hose from the inlet manifold. 12 Disconnect the HT leads from the spark plugs. 13 Disconnect the electrical leads from the temperature sender unit, inlet manifold, carburettor and radiator fan thermal switch. 14 Unbolt and remove the heated air box from the exhaust manifold (where fitted) (see

illustration). 15 Disconnect the exhaust downpipe from

the manifold by unbolting the connecting flanges. Support the exhaust system at the front end. 16 Pull free and remove the oil filler cap with breather hoses. 17 Extract the four screws and remove the rocker cover. 18 Unscrew and remove the four fixing bolts and lift away the rocker shaft assembly from the cylinder head.

19 Withdraw the pushrods, keeping them in their originally fitted sequence. A simple way to do this is to punch holes in a piece of card and number them 1 to 8 from the thermostat housing end of the cylinder head (see

illustration). 20 Remove the spark plugs. 21 Unscrew the cylinder head bolts

progressively in the reverse order to that given for tightening. Remove the cylinder head.

Refitting

Caution: Never use jointing compound when refitting the cylinder head and gasket.

22 Before refitting the cylinder head, remove every particle of carbon, old gasket and dirt from the mating surfaces of the cylinder head and block. Do not let the removed material drop into the cylinder bores or waterways: if it does, remove it. Normally, when a cylinder head is removed, the head is decarbonised and the valves ground in to remove all traces of carbon. 23 Clean the threads of the cylinder head bolts and mop out oil from the bolt holes in the cylinder block. In extreme cases, screwing a bolt into an oil-filled hole can cause the block to fracture due to hydraulic pressure.

2A•4 OHV engine repair procedures

4.14 Heated air box on exhaust manifold

4.8 Disconnect the throttle cable and bracket

4.19 Withdraw the pushrods

Tap a stuck cylinder head free with a wooden mallet. Do not insert a lever into the head joint as this may

damage the mating faces.

24 If there is any doubt about the condition of the inlet or exhaust gaskets, unbolt the manifolds and fit new ones to perfectly clean mating surfaces. 25 Locate a new cylinder head gasket on the cylinder block, making quite sure that the bolt holes, coolant passages and lubrication holes are correctly aligned. 26 Lower the cylinder head carefully into position on the block. 27 Screw in all the bolts finger tight and then tighten them in four stages, in the sequence shown (see illustration) to the specified torque.

28 Refit the pushrods in their original order. 29 Lower the rocker shaft assembly into

position, making sure that the rocker adjusting screws engage in the sockets at the ends of the pushrods (see illustration). 30 Screw in the rocker pedestal bolts finger tight. At this stage, some of the rocker arms will be applying pressure to the ends of the valve stems and some of the rocker pedestals will not be in contact with the cylinder head. The pedestals will be pulled down, however, when the bolts are tightened to the specified torque, which should now be done.

31 Adjust the valve clearances. 32 Refit the rocker cover. If the gasket is in

anything but perfect condition, renew it. 33 Fit the oil filler cap and breather hose and the spark plugs. Tighten these to the specified

torque. They are of tapered seat type, no sealing washers being used. 34 Connect the exhaust downpipe and fit the heated air box. 35 Reconnect all electrical leads, vacuum and coolant hoses. 36 Reconnect the cables. Refit the battery (if removed) and reconnect the battery terminals.

37 Fit the air cleaner. 38 Refill the cooling system.

5 Valve clearances -

adjustment

Refer to Chapter 1, Section 18.

6 Sump - removal and refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery earth lead and drain the engine oil. 2 Unbolt and withdraw the starter motor. Support the motor to avoid straining the electrical wiring.

3 Unbolt and remove the clutch cover plate.

4 Extract the sump securing bolts and

remove the sump. If it is stuck, prise it gently with a screwdriver, but do not use excessive leverage. If it is very tight, cut round the gasket joint using a sharp knife.

Refitting

5 Before refitting the sump, remove the front and rear sealing strips and gaskets. Clean the mating surfaces of the sump and cylinder block. 6 Stick new gaskets into position on the block using thick grease to retain them, then install new sealing strips into their grooves so that they overlap the gaskets (see

illustration). 7 Before offering up the sump, check that the

gap between the sump and oil baffle is between 2.0 and 3.8 mm (see illustration). 8 Screw in the sump bolts and tighten in three stages to the specified torque (see illustration):

Stage 1 - in alphabetical order Stage 2 - in numerical order Stage 3 - in alphabetical order

9 It is important to follow this procedure in order to provide sealing against oil leakage. 10 Refit the clutch cover plate and the starter motor and reconnect the battery. 11 Refill the engine with the correct grade and quantity of oil.

OHV engine repair procedures 2A•5

6.8 Sump retaining bolt tightening

sequence - arrow indicates front of engine

6.7 Sump-to-baffle plate must be as shown

A Sump B Baffle

6.6 Sump gaskets and sealing strips

A Timing cover end B Flywheel end

4.29 Refit the rocker shaft assembly - engaging the adjuster balls into the pushrod caps (sockets)

4.27 Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence

7 Rocker gear - dismantling

and reassembly

1 With the rocker assembly removed, extract the split pin from one end of the rocker shaft. 2 Take off the spring and plain washers from the end of the shaft. 3 Slide off the rocker arms, support pedestals and coil springs, keeping them in their originally fitted order (see illustration). Clean out the oil holes in the shaft. 4 Apply engine oil to the rocker shaft before reassembling and make sure that the flat on the end of the shaft is to the same side as the rocker arm adjuster screws (see illustration). This is essential for proper lubrication of the components. 5 If a new rocker shaft is being fitted, check that the end plug is located correctly (see

illustration).

8 Crankshaft front oil seal -

renewal

1 Disconnect the battery earth cable. 2 Slacken the alternator mounting and

adjuster bolts and after pushing the alternator in towards the engine, slip off the drivebelt. 3 Unscrew and remove the crankshaft pulley bolt. To prevent the crankshaft turning while the bolt is being released, jam the teeth of the starter ring gear on the flywheel after removing the clutch cover plate or starter motor for access.

4 Remove the crankshaft pulley. This should come out using the hands but, if it is tight, prise it carefully with two levers placed at opposite sides under the pulley flange. 5 Using a suitable claw tool, prise out the defective seal and wipe out the seat (see

illustration). 6 Install the new seal using a suitable

distance piece, the pulley and its bolt to draw it into position. If it is tapped into position, the seal may be distorted or the timing cover fractured. 7 When the seal is fully seated, remove the pulley and bolt, apply grease to the seal rubbing surface of the pulley, install it and tighten the securing bolt to the specified torque.

8 Refit the clutch cover or starter motor. 9 Fit and tension the drivebelt and reconnect

the battery.

9 Pistons/connecting rods -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 Remove the cylinder head and the sump. Do not remove the oil pick-up filter or pipe, which is an interference fit. 2 Note the location numbers stamped on the connecting rod big-ends and caps, and to which side they face (see illustration). No 1 assembly is nearest the timing cover and the assembly numbers are towards the camshaft side of the engine.

3 Turn the crankshaft by means of the pulley bolt until the big-end cap bolts for No 1 connecting rod are in their most accessible position. Unscrew and remove the bolts and the big-end cap complete with bearing shell. If the cap is difficult to remove, tap it off with a plastic-faced hammer. 4 If the bearing shells are to be used again, keep the shell taped to its cap. 5 Feel the top of the cylinder bore for a wear ridge. If one is detected, it should be scraped off before the piston/rod is pushed out of the top of the cylinder block. Take care when doing this not to score the cylinder bore surfaces. 6 Push the piston/connecting rod out of the block, retaining the bearing shell with the rod if it is to be used again. 7 Repeat the operations on the remaining piston/rod assemblies.

Refitting

8 To install a piston/rod assembly, have the piston ring gaps staggered as shown (see illustration). Oil the rings and fit a piston ring compressor.

2A•6 OHV engine repair procedures

7.3 Rocker components

7.5 Rocker shaft front end plug (A), flat (B) and oil hole (C)

9.8 Piston ring end gap positioning diagram

9.2 Connecting rod big-end numbers8.5 Prising out the crankshaft front oil seal

7.4 Flat on rocker shaft (arrowed) and retaining pin

9 Oil the cylinder bores. 10 Wipe out the bearing shell seat in the

connecting rod and insert the shell. 11 Lower the piston/rod assembly into the cylinder bore until the base of the piston ring compressor stands squarely on the top of the block (see illustration). 12 Check that the directional arrow on the piston crown faces towards the timing cover end of the engine and then apply the wooden handle of a hammer to the piston crown. Strike the head of the hammer sharply to drive the piston into the cylinder bore. 13 Oil the crankpin and draw the connecting rod down to engage with the crankshaft. Check that the bearing shell is still in position in the connecting rod. 14 Wipe the bearing shell seat in the big-end cap clean and insert the bearing shell. 15 Fit the cap, screw in the bolts and tighten to the specified torque. 16 Repeat the operations on the remaining pistons/connecting rods. 17 Refit the sump and the cylinder head. Refill with oil and coolant.

10 Oil filter and pump - removal

and refitting

Removal

1 The oil pump is externally mounted on the rearward facing side of the crankcase (see

illustration).

2 Using a suitable removal tool (strap wrench

or similar), unscrew and remove the oil filter cartridge and discard it. 3 Unscrew the three mounting bolts and withdraw the oil pump from the engine (see

illustration). 4 Clean away the old gasket.

Refitting

5 If a new pump is being fitted, it should be primed with engine oil before installation. Do this by turning its shaft while filling it with clean engine oil. 6 Locate a new gasket on the pump mounting flange, insert the pump shaft and bolt the pump into position. 7 Oil the rubber sealing ring of a new filter and screw it into position on the pump, using hand pressure only, not the removal tool. 8 Top-up the engine oil to replenish any lost during the operations.

11 Engine/transmission

mountings - removal and

refitting

1 The engine mountings can be removed if the weight of the engine/transmission is first taken by one of the three following methods:

a) Support the engine under the sump

using a jack and a block of wood. b) Attach a hoist to the engine lifting lugs. c) Make up a bar with end pieces which will

engage in the water channels at the sides of

the bonnet lid aperture. Using an adjustable

hook and chain connected to the engine

lifting lugs, the weight of the engine can be

taken off the mountings (see illustration).

Right-hand engine mounting

2 Unscrew and remove the mounting side bolt from under the right-hand wheel arch, just to the rear of and above the brake hose bracket (see illustration). 3 Unscrew and remove the mounting retaining nut and washer from the suspension strut cup retaining plate. 4 Undo the three bolts securing the mounting unit to the cylinder block (working from underneath). The mounting unit and bracket can then be lowered from the engine. 5 Unbolt and remove the mounting from its support bracket.

Engine bearer and mountings

6 Unscrew and remove the two nuts securing each mounting (front and rear) to the engine bearer. 7 Support the engine bearer, then undo and remove the four retaining bolts from the floorpan, two at the front and two at the rear

(see illustration). 8 Unscrew the retaining nut to disconnect the

rubber mounting from the transmission support.

All mountings

9 Refitting of all mountings is a reversal of removal. Make sure that the original sequence of assembly of washers and plates is maintained. 10 Do not fully tighten all mounting bolts until they are all located. As the mounting bolts and nuts are tightened, check that the mounting rubbers do not twist.

OHV engine repair procedures 2A•7

10.3 Removing the oil pump

11.7 Engine bearer (rear end) showing

mounting retaining nut (A) and retaining

bolts to floor (B)

11.2 Right-hand engine mounting side retaining bolt

11.1 Typical engine support bar

10.1 Oil filter and pump unit

9.11 Installing a piston/connecting rod

12 Engine/transmission -

removal and separation

Caution: After removing the engine, keep it upright until the sump has been removed to prevent sludge from entering the engine internals.

Removal

1 This procedure entails lowering the engine and gearbox, and removing the unit from beneath the car. For this reason, certain items of equipment are necessary. A suitable engine hoist should be employed to lower the engine. A more difficult alternative would be to use a good trolley jack. Secondly, if an inspection pit is not available, four strong axle jacks capable of supporting the weight of the car, must be used. In addition, a willing friend will make the procedure easier. 2 Select 4th gear, or reverse gear on 5-speed models, to make gearshift adjustment easier on reassembly.

3 Open and remove the bonnet. 4 Disconnect the battery leads. 5 Drain the engine coolant. 6 Remove the radiator and thermo-electric

fan unit. 7 To drain any remaining coolant within the engine, undo and remove the cylinder block drain plug from the left-hand side at the front (exhaust manifold face) and drain the remaining coolant into a suitable container. 8 Disconnect the crankcase ventilation hoses and remove the air cleaner unit.

9 Unclip and disconnect the heater hoses from the inlet manifold connection and the lateral coolant pipe. 10 Refer to Section 4 and proceed as described in paragraphs 7 to 15 inclusive. 11 Disconnect the wiring connections from the alternator, the carburettor, the inlet manifold, the oil pressure switch, the reversing light switch and the engine oil dipstick (if applicable). Undo the securing bolt and disconnect the engine earth strap. 12 Disconnect the speedometer drive cable at the gearbox end. 13 Disconnect the clutch cable from the release lever and gearbox support. 14 Raise and support the vehicle on safety stands at the front and rear, ensuring that, when raised, the vehicle is level and there is sufficient clearance to lower and remove the engine and transmission from underneath.

15 Disconnect the starter motor leads. 16 Disconnect the gearchange rod from the

gearbox selector shaft. Do this by releasing the clamp bolt and withdrawing the rod (see illustration). Tie the rod to the stabilizer and then unhook the tension spring. 17 Unscrew the single bolt and disconnect the stabilizer from the gearbox. Note the washer which is located between the stabilizer trunnion and the gearbox casing

(see illustration). 18 Drain the gearbox. As no drain plug is

fitted, this is carried out by unscrewing the cap nut on the selector shaft locking assembly. Take care not to lose the locking pin and spring.

19 Undo and remove the four nuts retaining the gearshift housing unit to the floor (see illustration). Rotate the shift rod and stabilizer 180° and support them by tying them up with a length of cord or wire. 20 Unscrew and remove the pivot bolt and nut from the inboard end of the left side front suspension lower arm (see illustration), then remove the bolt which secures the balljoint at the outboard end of the lower arm to the stub axle carrier. An Allen key can be used to prevent the bolt turning while the nut is unscrewed. 21 The left-hand driveshaft must now be released from the transmission. Do this by inserting a lever between the inboard constant velocity (CV) joint and the transmission (see illustration). With an assistant pulling the roadwheel outwards, strike the lever hard with the hand. Note that a quantity of oil will be released when the driveshaft is removed so have a container ready. 22 Tie the driveshaft up to the steering rack housing to prevent strain to the CV joints. 23 Restrain the differential pinion cage to prevent the cage from turning, using a plastic plug or similar. Failure to do this may make reconnection of the driveshafts difficult. 24 Remove the three retaining bolts and detach the tie-bar on the right-hand side, complete with mounting bracket, from the crossmember (see illustration). 25 Release the inboard and outboard ends of the front suspension lower arm on the righthand side of the vehicle, as described for the left-hand side.

2A•8 OHV engine repair procedures

12.16 Gearchange rod clamp bolt (arrowed)

12.19 Gearshift housing unit-to-floor nuts (arrowed)

12.24 Tie-bar mounting bolts (arrowed). Note that XR2 variant differs

12.21 Driveshaft removal from gearbox12.20 Front suspension lower arm pivot

bolt and nut locations

12.17 Gearchange stabilizer rod

connection - arrow indicates washer

location

26 Disconnect the right-hand driveshaft, as

previously described for the left-hand one. 27 Connect a suitable hoist to the engine, preferably using a spreader bar and connecting lifting hooks to the engine: lifting lugs provided. 28 With the weight of the engine and transmission just supported, disconnect the engine and transmission mountings at the points shown (see illustrations). 29 Unbolt the engine mounting (complete with coolant hose support bracket, where applicable) from the side-member and from the wing apron panel. 30 Carefully lower the engine/transmission and withdraw it from under the car. To ease the withdrawal operation, lower the engine/transmission onto a crawler board or a sheet of substantial plywood placed on rollers or lengths of pipe.

Separation

31 Unscrew and remove the starter motor bolts and remove the starter. 32 Unbolt and remove the clutch cover plate from the lower part of the clutch bellhousing. 33 Unscrew and remove the bolts from the clutch bellhousing-to-engine mating flange. 34 Withdraw the transmission from the engine. Support its weight so that the clutch assembly is not distorted while the input shaft is still in engagement with the splined hub of the clutch driven plate.

13 Engine - dismantling

1 The need for dismantling will have been dictated by wear or noise in most cases. Although there is no reason why only partial dismantling cannot be carried out to renew such items as the timing chain or crankshaft

rear oil seal, when the main bearings or bigend bearings have been knocking, and especially if the vehicle has covered a high mileage, then it is recommended that a complete strip down is carried out and every engine component examined. 2 Position the engine so that it is upright on a bench or other convenient working surface. If the exterior is very dirty it should be cleaned before dismantling using paraffin and a stiff brush or a water-soluble solvent. 3 Remove the coolant pipe from the side of the engine by disconnecting the hose clips and the securing bolt (see illustration).

4 If not already done, drain the engine oil. 5 Remove the dipstick and unscrew and

discard the oil filter. 6 Disconnect the HT leads from the spark plugs, release the distributor cap and lift it away complete with leads.

7 Unscrew and remove the spark plugs. 8 Disconnect the breather hose from the inlet

manifold and remove it complete with the oil filler cap. 9 Disconnect the fuel and vacuum pipes from the carburettor and unbolt and remove the carburettor. 10 Unbolt the thermostat housing cover and remove it, together with the thermostat.

11 Remove the rocker cover. 12 Remove the rocker shaft assembly (four

bolts). 13 Withdraw the pushrods, keeping them in their originally fitted order. 14 Remove the cylinder head, complete with manifolds.

15 Remove the bolt that holds the distributor clamp plate to the cylinder block and withdraw the distributor.

16 Unbolt and remove the fuel pump (see illustration). 17 Remove the oil pump. 18 Pinch the two runs of the coolant pump

drivebelt together at the pump pulley to prevent the pulley rotating and release the pulley bolts. 19 Release the alternator mounting and adjuster link bolts, push the alternator in towards the engine and remove the drivebelt

(see illustration). 20 Unbolt the alternator bracket and remove the alternator (see illustration). 21 Unbolt and remove the coolant pump (see illustration).

OHV engine repair procedures 2A•9

12.28c Engine bearer retaining bolts front

13.16 Unbolt and remove the fuel pump13.3 Engine lateral coolant pipe

connections (arrowed)

12.28d Engine bearer retaining bolts - rear

12.28b Engine mounting nut on right-hand suspension strut retaining plate (arrowed)

12.28a Engine mounting bolt under righthand wheel arch

It is best to support an engine on a dismantling stand or strong bench at a comfortable working height

before commencing work.

22 Unscrew the crankshaft pulley bolt. To do this, the flywheel starter ring gear will have to be jammed to prevent the crankshaft from turning (see illustration). 23 Remove the crankshaft pulley. If this does not pull off by hand, carefully use two levers

behind it placed at opposite points. 24 Place the engine on its side and remove the sump. Do not invert the engine at this stage, or sludge and swarf may enter the oilways.

25 Unbolt and remove the timing chain cover (see illustration).

26 Take off the oil slinger from the front face of the crankshaft sprocket (see illustration). 27 Slide the chain tensioner arm from its pivot pin on the front main bearing cap (see illustration). 28 Unbolt and remove the chain tensioner. 29 Bend back the lockplate tabs from the

camshaft sprocket bolts and unscrew and remove the bolts (see illustration). 30 Withdraw the sprocket complete with timing chain. 31 Unbolt and remove the camshaft thrust plate (see illustration). 32 Rotate the camshaft until each cam follower (tappet) has been pushed fully into its hole by its cam lobe. 33 Withdraw the camshaft, taking care not to damage the camshaft bearings (see illustration). 34 Withdraw each of the cam followers, keeping them in their originally fitted sequence by marking them with a piece of numbered tape or using a box with divisions (see illustration).

2A•10 OHV engine repair procedures

13.19 Alternator retaining and drivebelt adjustment bolts

13.21 Unbolt and remove the coolant pump

13.34 Lift out the cam followers (tappets), using a valve grinding tool

13.31 Unbolting the camshaft thrust plate

13.26 Removing the crankshaft oil slinger 13.27 Sliding off the chain tensioner arm 13.29 Bending back the camshaft sprocket bolt locktabs

13.33 Withdrawing the camshaft

13.25 Remove the timing chain cover13.22 Unscrew the crankshaft pulley

retaining bolt

13.20 Alternator mounting bracket

35 From the front end of the crankshaft, draw

off the sprocket using a two-legged extractor. 36 Check that the main bearing caps are marked F (Front), C (Centre) and R (Rear). The caps are also marked with an arrow which indicates the timing cover end of the engine, a point to remember when refitting the caps. 37 Check that the big-end caps and connecting rods have adjacent matching numbers facing towards the camshaft side of the engine. Number 1 assembly is nearest the timing chain end of the engine. If any markings are missing or indistinct, make some of your own with quick-drying paint

(see illustration). 38 Unbolt and remove the big-end bearing

caps. If the bearing shell is to be used again, tape the shell to the cap. 39 Now check the top of the cylinder bore for a wear ridge. If one can be felt, it should be removed with a scraper before the piston/rod is pushed out of the cylinder. 40 Remove the piston/rod by pushing it out of the top of the block. Tape the bearing shell to the connecting rod. 41 Remove the remaining three piston/rod assemblies in a similar way. 42 Unbolt the clutch pressure plate cover from the flywheel. Unscrew the bolts evenly and progressively until spring pressure is relieved, before removing the bolts. Be prepared to catch the clutch driven plate as the cover is withdrawn. 43 Unbolt and remove the flywheel. It is heavy, do not drop it. If necessary, the starter ring gear can be jammed to prevent the flywheel rotating. There is no need to mark the fitted position of the flywheel to its mounting flange as it can only be fitted one way. Take off the adapter plate (engine backplate). 44 Unbolt and remove the crankshaft rear oil seal retainer (see illustration). 45 Unbolt the main bearing caps. Remove the caps, tapping them off if necessary with a plastic-faced hammer. Retain the bearing shells with their respective caps if the shells are to be used again, although unless the engine is of low mileage this is not recommended. 46 Lift the crankshaft from the crankcase and lift out the upper bearing shells, noting the thrustwashers either side of the centre

bearing. Keep these shells with their respective caps, identifying them for refitting to the crankcase if they are to be used again. 47 With the engine now completely dismantled, each component should be examined, as described in the following Section before reassembling.

14 Engine - examination and

renovation

1 Clean all components using paraffin and a stiff brush, except the crankshaft, which should be wiped clean and the oil passages cleaned out with a length of wire. 2 Never assume that a component is unworn simply because it looks all right. After all the effort which has gone into dismantling the engine, refitting worn components will make the overhaul a waste of time and money. Depending on the degree of wear, the overhauler’s budget and the anticipated life of the vehicle, components which are only slightly worn may be refitted, but if in doubt it is always best to renew.

Crankshaft, main and big-end bearings

3 The need to renew the main bearing shells or to have the crankshaft reground will usually have been determined during the last few miles of operation when perhaps a heavy knocking has developed from within the crankcase or the oil pressure warning lamp has stayed on, denoting a low oil pressure probably caused by excessive wear in the bearings. 4 Even without these symptoms, the journals and crankpins on a high mileage engine should be checked for out-of-round (ovality) and taper. For this a micrometer will be needed to check the diameter of the journals and crankpins at several different points around them. A motor factor or engineer can do this for you. If the readings show that either out-of-round or taper is present, then the crankshaft should be reground by your dealer or engine reconditioning company to accept the undersize main and big-end shell bearings which are available. Normally, the company doing the regrinding will supply the necessary undersize shells.

5 If the crankshaft is in good condition, it is wise to renew the bearing shells as it is almost certain that the original ones will have worn. This is often indicated by scoring of the bearing surface or by the top layer of the bearing metal having worn through to expose the metal underneath. 6 Each shell is marked on its back with the part number. Undersize shells will have the undersize stamped additionally on their backs. 7 Standard size crankshafts having main bearing journal diameters at the lower end of the tolerance range are marked with a yellow spot on the front balance weight. You will find that with this type of crankshaft, a standard shell is fitted to the seat in the crankcase but a yellow colour-coded shell to the main bearing cap. 8 If a green spot is seen on the crankshaft then this indicates that 0.254 mm undersize big-end bearings are used in place of the standard diameter.

Cylinder bores, pistons, rings and connecting rods

9 Cylinder bore wear will usually have been evident from the smoke emitted from the exhaust during recent operation of the vehicle on the road, coupled with excessive oil consumption and fouling of spark plugs. 10 Engine life can be extended by fitting special oil control rings to the pistons. These are widely advertised and will give many more thousands of useful mileage without the need for a rebore, although this will be inevitable eventually. If this remedy is decided upon, remove the piston/connecting rods and fit the proprietary rings in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. 11 Where a more permanent solution is decided upon, the cylinder block can be rebored by your dealer or engineering works, or by one of the mobile workshops which now undertake such work. The cylinder bore will be measured both for out-of-round and for taper to decide how much the bores should be bored out. A set of matching pistons will be supplied in a suitable oversize to suit the new bores. 12 Due to the need for special heating and installing equipment for removal and refitting of the interference type gudgeon pin, the removal and refitting of pistons to the connecting rods is definitely a specialist job, preferably for your Ford dealer. 13 The removal and refitting of piston rings is however well within the scope of the home mechanic. Do this by sliding two or three old feeler blades round behind the top compression ring so that they are at equidistant points. The ring can now be slid up the blades and removed. Repeat the removal operations on the second compression ring and then the oil control ring. This method will not only prevent the rings from dropping onto empty grooves as they are withdrawn, but it will also avoid ring breakage.

OHV engine repair procedures 2A•11

13.44 Crankshaft rear oil seal retainer13.37 Connecting rod and big-end cap

markings (arrowed)

14 Even when new piston rings have been supplied to match the pistons, always check that they are not tight in their grooves and also check their end gaps by pushing them squarely down their particular cylinder bore and measuring with a feeler blade (see illustration). Adjustment of the end gap can be made by careful grinding to bring it within the specified tolerance. 15 If new rings are being fitted to an old piston, always remove any carbon from the grooves beforehand. The best tool for this job is the end of a broken piston ring. Take care not to cut your fingers, piston rings are sharp. The cylinder bores should be roughened with fine glass paper to assist the bedding-in of the new rings.

Timing sprockets and chain

16 The teeth on the timing sprockets rarely wear, but check for broken or hooked teeth even so. 17 The timing chain should always be renewed at time of major engine overhaul. A worn chain is evident if, when supported horizontally at both ends, it takes on a deeply bowed appearance. 18 Finally check the rubber cushion on the tensioner spring leaf. If grooved or chewed up, renew it.

Flywheel

19 Inspect the starter ring gear on the flywheel for wear or broken teeth. If evident, the ring gear should be renewed in the following way. Drill the ring gear with two holes, approximately 7 or 8 mm diameter and offset as shown (see illustration). Make sure that you do not drill too deeply or you will damage the flywheel. 20 Tap the ring gear downward off its register and remove it (see illustration). 21 Place the flywheel in the household refrigerator for about an hour and then heat the new ring gear to between 260 and 28°C in

a domestic oven. Do not heat it above 290°C or its hardness will be lost. 22 Slip the ring onto the flywheel and gently tap it into position against its register. Allow it to cool without quenching. 23 The clutch friction surface on the flywheel should be checked for grooving or tiny hair cracks, the latter being caused by overheating. If these conditions are evident, it may be possible to surface grind the flywheel provided its balance is not upset. Otherwise, a new flywheel will have to be fitted - consult your dealer about this.

Oil pump

24 The oil pump should be checked for wear by unbolting and removing the cover plate and checking the following tolerances (see illustrations).

a) Outer rotor-to-pump body gap b) Inner rotor-to-outer rotor gap c) Rotor endfloat (use a feeler blade and

straight-edge across pump body)

Use feeler blades to check the tolerances and if they are outside the specified values, renew the pump. 25 If the pump is serviceable, renew the Oring and refit the cover (see illustration).

2A•12 OHV engine repair procedures

14.14 Checking a piston ring end gap 14.20 Removing the ring gear from the flywheel

14.24b Check the oil pump rotor-to-body clearance at (a) and the inner-to-outer rotor clearance at (b)

14.24a Oil pump components

A Cover B O-ring C Pump body D Threaded insert

E Filter (relief valve) F Plug G Relief valve

H Outer rotor J Inner rotor K Drive pinion

14.19 Drilling the flywheel starter ring gear

14.25 Oil pump O-ring seal must be renewed (arrowed)

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