Ford Fiesta User Manual

Download

Page 1

Chapter 1

Routine maintenance and servicing

Air cleaner element renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31

Air cleaner temperature control check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29

Auxiliary drivebelt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20

Battery electrolyte level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .see

“Weekly checks”

Battery terminal check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17

Brake hydraulic fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33

Brake hydraulic system seal and hose renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32

Brake pipe and hose check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26

Choke adjustment check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9

Contact breaker point renewal and distributor lubrication

- OHV engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23

Crankcase ventilation system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28

Emission control filter element renewal - CVH engines . . . . . . . . . . .30

Engine coolant renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36

Engine idle speed check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10

Engine oil and filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3

Engine valve clearance check - OHV engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18

Exhaust system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

Fluid leak check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

Fluid level checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .see “Weekly checks”

Front and rear brake pad/shoe check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

Front wheel alignment check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35

Gearbox oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22

Handbrake check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19

Hinge and lock check and lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

HT lead, distributor cap and ignition circuit check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

Ignition timing and contact breaker gap (dwell angle) check

- OHV engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15

Intensive maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2

Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1

Mixture adjustment check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11

Road test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27

Roadwheel security check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Seat belt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

Spark plug check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

Spark plug renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21

Steering and suspension security check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24

Throttle damper operation check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16

Timing belt renewal - CVH engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34

Tyre checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .see “Weekly checks”

Underbody inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25

Wiper blade check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .see “Weekly checks”

1•1

Contents

Easy, suitable for

novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Servicing Specifications

Lubricants and fluids See end of “Weekly checks” Capacities

Engine oil

With filter:

1.0 and 1.1 OHV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.25 litres (5.7 Imp pints)

1.3,1.4 and 1.6 CVH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.50 litres (6.2 Imp pints)

Without filter:

1.0 and 1.1 OHV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.75 litres (4.8 Imp pints)

1.3, 1.4 and 1.6 CVH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.25 litres (5.7 Imp pints)

Cooling system (including heater)

1.0 and 1.1 OHV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.5 litres (9.7 Imp pints)

1.3 and 1.4 CVH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.3 litres (11.1 Imp pints)

1.6 CVH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.0 litres (14.1 Imp pints)

Fuel tank

All models - pre 1985, except XR2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 litres (7.5 gallons)

XR2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 litres (8.4 gallons)

All models - 1985 on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 litres (8.8 gallons)

Gearbox

4-speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.8 litres (4.9 Imp pints)

5-speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.1 litres (5.5 Imp pints)

Page 2

1•2 Servicing Specifications

Engine

Oil filter type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion C104

Valve clearances (only OHV applicable):

Inlet:

At operating temperature . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.22 mm (0.009 in)

Cold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.20 to 0.25 mm (0.008 to 0.010 in)

Exhaust:

At operating temperature . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.59 mm (0.023 in)

Cold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.56 to 0.61 mm (0.022 to 0.024 in)

Cooling system

Drivebelt tension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.0 mm (0.16 in) total deflection at the midpoint of the belt’s longest run

Fuel system

Air filter element type:

1.0 and 1.1 (OHV) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W153

1.3 (CVH) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W127

1.4 (CVH) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W179

1.6 (CVH) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W201

Ignition system

Spark plugs:

Make and type:

Mechanical system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RS9YCC or RS9YC

Electronic system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RC7YCC or RC7YC

Electrode gap:

RS9YCC and RC7YCC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.80 mm (0.032 in)

RS9YC and RC7YC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.75 mm (0.030 in)

Note: The spark plug gap quoted is that recommended by Champion for their specified plugs listed above. If spark plugs of any other type are to be fitted, refer to their manufacturer’s recommendations.

Contact breaker points gap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.40 to 0.50 mm (0.016 to 0.020 in)

Dwell (mechanical ignition):

Angle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48° to 52°

Variation (from idle to 2000 rpm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4° maximum

Overlap (lobe-to-lobe variation) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3° maximum

Timing (initial):

1.0 litre OHV (pre 1986) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12° BTDC

1.1 litre OHV (pre 1986) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6° BTDC

Ignition HT lead set:

Resistance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 k ohms maximum per lead

Type:

Mechanical system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion CLS 8 boxed set

Electronic system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion CLS 9 boxed set

Brakes

Front brake pad friction material minimum thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 mm (0.059 in)

Rear brake shoe friction material minimum thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 mm (0.04 in)

Tyres

Tyre sizes: Note: Manufacturers often modify tyre sizes and pressure recommendations. The following is intended as a guide only. Refer to your vehicle

handbook or a Ford dealer for the latest recommendations.

XR2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185/60 HR 13

Other models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135 SR 13, 155/70 SR 13 or 165/65 SR 13

Tyre pressures: See end of “Weekly checks”

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Engine oil drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Radiator coolant drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 1.1

Gearbox oil filler/level plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 20

Roadwheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 74

Spark plugs:

OHV engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 to 20 10 to 15

CVH engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 20

Brake caliper piston housing bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 17

Page 3

The maintenance intervals in this manual are provided with the assumption that you will be carrying out the work yourself. These are the minimum maintenance intervals recommended by the manufacturer for vehicles driven daily. If you wish to keep your vehicle in peak condition at all times, you may

wish to perform some of these procedures more often. We encourage frequent maintenance, because it enhances the efficiency, performance and resale value of your vehicle.

If the vehicle is driven in dusty areas, used

to tow a trailer, or driven frequently at slow

speeds (idling in traffic) or on short journeys, more frequent maintenance intervals are recommended.

When the vehicle is new, it should be serviced by a factory-authorised dealer service department, in order to preserve the factory warranty.

Maintenance schedule 1•3

Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly

mm Refer to “Weekly checks”

Every 6000 miles (10 000 km) or 6 months - whichever comes sooner

mm Renew engine oil and filter (Section 3) mm Check brake pads or shoes for wear (front and

rear) (Section 4)

mm Check operation of brake fluid level warning

indicator (Section 4)

mm Inspect engine bay and underside of vehicle for

fluid leaks or other signs of damage (Section 5)

mm Check function and condition of seat belts

(Section 6)

mm Check condition and security of exhaust system

(Section 7)

mm Check tightness of wheel nuts (Section 8) mm Check choke adjustment (Section 9) mm Check idle speed (Section 10) mm Check mixture adjustment (Section 11) mm Check spark plugs (Section 12) mm Check HT leads, distributor cap and ignition circuit

(Section 13)

mm Check operation of latches, check straps and

locks; lubricate if necessary (Section 14)

mm Check ignition timing and contact breaker gap

(dwell angle) (OHV engines) (Section 15)

mm Check operation of throttle damper (where

applicable) (Section 16)

Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) or 12 months - whichever comes sooner (continued)

mm Renew spark plugs (Section 21) mm Check gearbox oil level (Section 22) mm Renew distributor contact breaker points and

lubricate distributor - OHV engines (Section 23)

mm Check security and condition of steering and

suspension components, gaiters and boots (Section 24)

mm Inspect underbody and panels for corrosion or

other damage (Section 25)

mm Inspect brake pipes and hoses (Section 26) mm Road test (Section 27) mm Check crankcase ventilation system (Section 28)

Every 24 000 miles (40 000 km) or 2 years - whichever comes sooner

mm Check air cleaner temperature control (Section 29) mm Renew emission control filter element - CVH

engines (Section 30)

mm Renew air cleaner element (Section 31)

Every 36 000 miles (60 000 km) or 3 years - whichever comes sooner

mm Renew brake hydraulic system seals and hoses if

necessary (Section 32)

mm Renew brake hydraulic fluid (Section 33) mm Renew timing belt - CVH engines (Section 34) mm Check front wheel alignment (Section 35)

Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) or 12 months - whichever comes sooner

mm Check tightness of battery terminals, clean and

neutralise corrosion (Section 17)

mm Check engine valve clearances - OHV engines

(Section 18)

mm Check handbrake mechanism (Section 19) mm Check condition and tension of auxiliary drivebelt

(Section 20)

Every 2 years, regardless of mileage

mm Renew coolant (Section 36)

Page 4

1•4 Maintenance - component location

Engine compartment - OHV

1 Coolant expansion tank 2 Engine oil dipstick 3 Oil filter 4 Ignition coil 5 Brake fluid reservoir 6 Battery 7 Cooling fan 8 Oil filler cap 9 Carburettor (air cleaner removed) 10 Alternator 11 Washer reservoir

Engine compartment - CVH

1 Coolant expansion tank 2 Engine oil dipstick 3 Carburettor (air cleaner removed) 4 Fuel pump 5 Distributor 6 Ignition coil 7 Windscreen wiper motor 8 Ignition amplifier module 9 Battery 10 Brake fluid reservoir 11 Cooling fan 12 Oil filler cap 13 Washer reservoir

Page 5

Maintenance - component location 1•5

Underside view of car at rear

1 Rear silencer 2 Brake secondary cable 3 Fuel tank 4 Suspension coil spring 5 Shock absorber lower mounting 6 Panhard rod 7 Anti-roll bar (certain models only) 8 Towing eye 9 Axle beam 10 Exhaust system mounting 11 Handbrake adjustment check plunger 12 Suspension trailing arm 13 Brake pressure control valve

Underside view of car at front - CVH

1 Suspension arm 2 Driveshaft 3 Tie-bar 4 Alternator 5 Sump 6 Exhaust 7 Starter motor 8 Engine/gearbox bearer 9 Gearbox 10 Disc brake caliper 11 Gearchange rod and stabilizer rod

Page 6

1 Introduction

This Chapter is designed to help the home mechanic maintain his/her vehicle for safety, economy, long life and peak performance.

The Chapter contains a master maintenance schedule, followed by Sections dealing specifically with each task in the schedule. Visual checks, adjustments, component renewal and other helpful items are included. Refer to the accompanying illustrations of the engine compartment and the underside of the vehicle for the locations of the various components.

Servicing your vehicle in accordance with the mileage/time maintenance schedule and the following Sections will provide a planned maintenance programme, which should result in a long and reliable service life. This is a comprehensive plan, so maintaining some items but not others at the specified service intervals, will not produce the same results.

As you service your vehicle, you will discover that many of the procedures can and should - be grouped together, because of the particular procedure being performed, or because of the close proximity of two otherwise-unrelated components to one another. For example, if the vehicle is raised for any reason, the exhaust can be inspected at the same time as the suspension and steering components.

The first step in this maintenance programme is to prepare yourself before the actual work begins. Read through all the Sections relevant to the work to be carried out, then make a list and gather together all the parts and tools required. If a problem is encountered, seek advice from a parts specialist, or a dealer service department.

2 Intensive maintenance

If, from the time the vehicle is new, the routine maintenance schedule is followed closely, and frequent checks are made of fluid levels and high-wear items, as suggested throughout this manual, the engine will be kept in relatively good running condition, and the need for additional work will be minimised.

It is possible that there will be times when the engine is running poorly due to the lack of regular maintenance. This is even more likely if a used vehicle, which has not received regular and frequent maintenance checks, is purchased. In such cases, additional work may need to be carried out, outside of the regular maintenance intervals.

If engine wear is suspected, a compression test will provide valuable information regarding the overall performance of the main internal components. Such a test can be used as a basis to decide on the extent of the work to be carried out. If, for example, a compression test indicates serious internal

engine wear, conventional maintenance as described in this Chapter will not greatly improve the performance of the engine, and may prove a waste of time and money, unless extensive overhaul work is carried out first.

The following series of operations are those most often required to improve the performance of a generally poor-running engine:

Primary operations

a) Clean, inspect and test the battery b) Check all the engine-related fluids c) Check the condition and tension of the

auxiliary drivebelt d) Renew the spark plugs e) Inspect the distributor cap and HT leads -

as applicable f) Check the condition of the air cleaner

filter element, and renew if necessary g) Renew the fuel filter (if fitted) h) Check the condition of all hoses, and

check for fluid leaks i) Check the idle speed and mixture settings

- as applicable

If the above operations do not prove fully effective, carry out the following secondary operations:

Secondary operations

a) Check the charging system b) Check the ignition system c) Check the fuel system d) Renew the distributor cap and rotor arm -

as applicable

e) Renew the ignition HT leads - as applicable

3 Engine oil and filter renewal

1 Frequent oil and filter changes are the most important preventative maintenance procedures which can be undertaken by the DIY owner. As engine oil ages, it becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear. 2 Before starting this procedure, gather together all the necessary tools and materials. Also make sure that you have plenty of clean rags and newspapers handy, to mop up any spills. Ideally, the engine oil should be warm, as it will drain better, and more built-up sludge will be removed with it. Take care, however, not to touch the exhaust or any other hot parts of the engine when working under the vehicle. To avoid any possibility of scalding, and to protect yourself from possible skin irritants and other harmful contaminants in used engine oils, it is advisable to wear gloves when carrying out this work. Access to the underside of the vehicle will be greatly improved if it can be raised on a lift, driven onto ramps, or jacked

up and supported on axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”). Whichever method is chosen, make sure that the vehicle remains level, or if it is at an angle, so that the drain plug is at the lowest point.

3 Slacken the drain plug about half a turn (see illustration). Position the draining container

under the drain plug, then remove the plug completely. If possible, try to keep the plug pressed into the sump while unscrewing it by hand the last couple of turns. Recover the sealing washer from the drain plug.

4 Allow some time for the old oil to drain, noting that it may be necessary to reposition the container as the oil flow slows to a trickle. 5 After all the oil has drained, wipe off the drain plug with a clean rag. Check the sealing washer for condition, and renew it if necessary. Clean the area around the drain plug opening, and refit the plug. Tighten the plug to the specified torque.

6 Move the container into position under the oil filter. 7 Using an oil filter removal tool if necessary, slacken the filter initially, then unscrew it by hand the rest of the way (see illustration). Empty the oil from the old filter into the container, and discard the filter. 8 Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirt and sludge from the filter sealing area on the engine. Check the old filter to make sure that the rubber sealing ring hasn’t stuck to the engine. If it has, carefully remove it.

1•6 Maintenance procedures

3.3 Removing the sump drain plug

6000 Mile (10 000 Km) / 6 Month Service

Remove the engine oil drain plug quickly so that the stream of oil runs into the container, not up your sleeve!

Page 7

9 Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to the sealing ring on the new filter, then screw it into position on the engine. Tighten the filter firmly by hand only - do not use any tools. Wipe clean the filter and sump drain plug. 10 Remove the old oil and all tools from under the car, then lower the car to the ground (if applicable). 11 Remove the oil filler cap and withdraw the dipstick. Fill the engine, using the correct grade and type of oil (see “Lubricants and fluids” and “Capacities” in the Specifications). An oil can spout or funnel may help to reduce spillage. Pour in half the specified quantity of oil first, then wait a few minutes for the oil to fall to the sump. Continue adding oil a small quantity at a time until the level is up to the lower mark on the dipstick. Finally, bring the level up to the upper mark on the dipstick. Insert the dipstick, and refit the filler cap.

12 Start the engine and run it for a few minutes; check for leaks around the oil filter seal and the sump drain plug. Note that there may be a delay of a few seconds before the oil pressure warning light goes out when the engine is first started, as the oil circulates through the engine oil galleries and the new oil filter, before the pressure builds up. 13 Switch off the engine, and wait a few minutes for the oil to settle in the sump once more. With the new oil circulated and the filter completely full, recheck the level on the dipstick, and add more oil as necessary.

14 Dispose of the used engine oil safely.

4 Front and rear brake

pad/shoe check

1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front and rear of the car and support it securely on axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”). 2 For a quick check, the front brake disc pads can be inspected without removing the front wheels by inserting a mirror between each caliper and roadwheel (see illustrations). If any one pad is worn down to the minimum specified thickness, all four pads (on both front wheels) must be renewed. 3 For a comprehensive check, the brake disc pads should be removed and cleaned. The operation of the caliper can then also be checked, and the condition of the brake discs can be fully examined on both sides. Refer to Chapter 9 for further information.

4 The rear brake shoe friction material can be inspected for wear without removing the roadwheels. Working beneath the vehicle, prise the plug from the brake backplate and using an inspection lamp or torch, check that the friction material thickness is not less than the minimum given in the Specifications (see illustrations). If any one of the shoes has worn below the specified limit, the shoes must be renewed as an axle set (4 shoes). 5 At the same interval, check the function of the brake fluid level warning light. Chock the wheels, release the handbrake and switch on the ignition. Unscrew and raise the brake fluid reservoir cap whilst an assistant observes the warning light: it should come on as the level sensor is withdrawn from the fluid. Refit the cap. 6 On completion, refit the wheels and lower the car to the ground.

5 Fluid leak check

1 Visually inspect the engine joint faces, gaskets and seals for any signs of water or oil leaks. Pay particular attention to the areas around the rocker cover, cylinder head, oil filter and sump joint faces. Bear in mind that over a period of time some very slight seepage from these areas is to be expected but what you are really looking for is any indication of a serious leak. Should a leak be found, renew the offending gasket or oil seal by referring to the appropriate Chapter(s) in this manual. 2 Similarly, check the transmission for oil leaks, and investigate and rectify and problems found. 3 Check the security and condition of all the engine related pipes and hoses. Ensure that all cable-ties or securing clips are in place and in good condition. Clips which are broken or missing can lead to chafing of the hoses, pipes or wiring which could cause more serious problems in the future. 4 Carefully check the condition of all coolant, fuel and brake hoses. Renew any hose which is cracked, swollen or deteriorated. Cracks will show up better if the hose is squeezed. Pay close attention to the hose clips that secure the hoses to the system components. Hose clips can pinch and puncture hoses, resulting in leaks. If wire type hose clips are used, it may be a good idea to replace them with screw-type clips. 5 With the vehicle raised, inspect the fuel tank and filler neck for punctures, cracks and

Every 6000 miles or 6 months 1•7

4.2b Inspect the disc brake pads through the caliper housing aperture

4.4b . . . to check the rear brake linings for wear

4.4a Remove the inspection plug from the rear brake backplate . . .

4.2a Using a mirror to check disc brake pads for wear

3.7 Removing the engine oil filter with a clamp wrench

Leaks in the cooling system will usually show up as white or rust-coloured deposits around the area

adjoining the leak.

Page 8

other damage. The connection between the filler neck and tank is especially critical. Sometimes a rubber filler neck or connecting hose will leak due to loose retaining clamps or deteriorated rubber. 6 Similarly, inspect all brake hoses and metal pipes. If any damage or deterioration is discovered, do not drive the vehicle until the necessary repair work has been carried out. Renew any damaged sections of hose or pipe. 7 Carefully check all rubber hoses and metal fuel lines leading away from the petrol tank. Check for loose connections, deteriorated hoses, crimped lines and other damage. Pay particular attention to the vent pipes and hoses which often loop up around the filler neck and can become blocked or crimped. Follow the lines to the front of the vehicle carefully inspecting them all the way. Renew damaged sections as necessary. 8 From within the engine compartment, check the security of all fuel hose attachments and pipe unions, and inspect the fuel hoses and vacuum hoses for kinks, chafing and deterioration. 9 Check the condition of all exposed wiring harnesses.

6 Seat belt check

1 Periodically check the belts for fraying or other damage. If evident, renew the belt. 2 If the belts become dirty, wipe them with a damp cloth using a little detergent only. 3 Check the tightness of the anchor bolts and if they are ever disconnected, make quite sure that the original sequence of fitting of washers, bushes and anchor plates is retained.

7 Exhaust system check

With the vehicle raised on a hoist or supported on axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”), check the exhaust system for signs of leaks, corrosion or damage and check the rubber mountings for condition and security (see illustration). Where damage or corrosion are evident, renew the system complete or in sections, as applicable, using the information given in Chapter 4.

8 Roadwheel security check

With the wheels on the ground, slacken each wheel bolt by a quarter turn, then retighten it immediately to the specified torque.

9 Choke adjustment check

On models equipped with carburettors of Ford manufacture, refer to Chapter 4, Section 9 and check that the choke is adjusted within the stated parameters.

10 Engine idle speed check

Ford 1V carburettor

1 Ensure that the air cleaner is correctly fitted, and that all vacuum hoses and pipes are securely connected and free from restrictions, then run the engine until it is at normal operating temperature. 2 With the engine at normal operating temperature, adjust the idle speed screw (see illustration) to obtain the specified idle speed, using a tachometer to ensure accuracy.

Ford VV carburettor

3 This procedure must be carried out with the radiator cooling fan in operation. To keep the fan running during the adjustment procedure, disconnect the wiring multi-plug from the thermal switch (located in the thermostat housing) and bridge the two contacts in the plug with a short length of wire (see illustration). Disconnect the wire and refit the multi-plug on completion of the adjustments. Make sure that the engine and ignition are switched off when connecting and disconnecting the bridging wire. 4 Ensure that the air cleaner is correctly fitted, and that all vacuum hoses and pipes are securely connected and free from restrictions, then run the engine until it is at normal operating temperature. 5 With the engine at normal operating temperature, connect a tachometer in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. 6 Start the engine, run it at 3000 rpm for 30 seconds and then let it idle. Turn the idle speed adjusting screw in or out as necessary to bring the speed to that given in the Specifications (see illustration).

1•8 Every 6000 miles or 6 months

7.1 Inspect the exhaust system rubber mounting

10.3 Temporary bridging wire in cooling fan thermal switch multi-plug

10.6 Ford VV carburettor idle speed screw (A) and mixture screw (B)

10.2 Ford 1V carburettor idle speed screw (A) and mixture screw (B)

Page 9

Weber 2V carburettor

7 Refer to the information relating to the Ford 1V carburettor for details, and to the accompanying illustration (see illustration) for the adjusting screws. Ensure that the engine fan is operating by pulling the two wires from the sensor, and connecting the wires with a jumper lead.

Weber 2V DFTM

8 Before carrying out this adjustment, ensure that the air cleaner is correctly fitted and that all vacuum hoses and pipes are securely connected and free from restrictions. Run the engine until it is at normal operating temperature. 9 The cooling fan must be kept running during the adjustment procedure. To do this, disconnect the wiring multi-plug from the thermal switch (located in the thermostat housing) and bridge the two contacts in the plug with a short length of wire. 10 Start the engine and turn the idle speed adjustment screw (see illustration) to obtain the specified idle speed, using a tachometer to ensure accuracy.

Weber 2V TLD carburettor

11 Refer to the information relating to the Weber 2V DFTM carburettor for details, and to the accompanying illustration (see illustration) for the adjusting screws.

Weber (1V) TLM carburettor

12 Before carrying out this adjustment, ensure that the air cleaner is correctly fitted and that all vacuum hoses and pipes are securely connected and free from restrictions. Run the engine until it is at normal operating temperature. 13 Connect a reliable tachometer to the engine in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. 14 Increase the engine speed to 3000 rpm and hold it at this speed for 30 seconds, then allow the engine to idle. Adjust the idle speed to within the specified range by turning the idle speed screw (see illustration).

11 Mixture adjustment check

Note: Refer to the precautions given in Section 1 of Chapter 4 before proceeding. Note: Before carrying out any carburettor adjustments, ensure that the ignition timing and spark plug gaps are set as specified. To carry out the adjustments an accurate tachometer and an exhaust gas analyser (CO meter) will be required. Adjustment of the idle mixture setting should not be attempted in territories where this may cause a violation of exhaust emission regulations. Where these regulations are less stringent the following procedures may be used.

Ford 1V carburettor

1 Ensure that the air cleaner is correctly fitted and that all vacuum hoses and pipes are securely connected and free from restrictions, then run the engine until it is at normal operating temperature. 2 Using a small screwdriver, prise out the tamperproof plug (if fitted) over the idle mixture screw. 3 Connect the CO meter and tachometer according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

4 Adjust the idle speed to the specified setting. 5 Run the engine at 3000 rpm for 30 seconds

to clear the inlet manifold of excess fuel. Repeat this operation every 30 seconds during the adjustment procedure.

6 Turn the idle mixture screw in the desired direction to achieve the fastest possible engine speed consistent with smooth, even running or the correct specified CO reading on the meter scale. 7 If necessary, readjust the idle speed setting on completion. Fit a new tamperproof plug to the mixture screw.

Ford VV carburettor

8 This procedure must be carried out with the radiator cooling fan in operation. To keep the fan running during the adjustment procedure, disconnect the wiring multi-plug from the thermal switch (located in the thermostat housing) and bridge the two contacts in the plug with a short length of wire. Disconnect the wire and refit the multi-plug on completion of the adjustments. Make sure that the engine and ignition are switched off when connecting and disconnecting the bridging wire. 9 To adjust the mixture accurately, connect a CO (exhaust gas) analyser and a tachometer in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. 10 Ensure that the air cleaner is correctly fitted and that all vacuum hoses and pipes are securely connected and free from restrictions, then run the engine until it is at normal operating temperature. 11 Using a thin, sharp screwdriver, prise out the tamperproof plug which covers the mixture screw. 12 Start the engine and run it at 3000 rpm for 30 seconds, then allow it to return to idle. Turn the mixture screw in (weak) or out (rich) until the CO level is within the specified range as indicated on the analysing equipment. The adjustment must be carried out within 30 seconds; otherwise, again increase the engine speed for 30 seconds before continuing with the adjustment. 13 Once the mixture is correct, adjust the idle speed then recheck the mixture. 14 Switch off the engine and remove the tachometer and the exhaust gas analyser. Fit a new tamperproof plug to the mixture screw. 15 In the absence of a suitable exhaust gas analyser, an approximate setting of the mixture screw may be made by turning the screw inwards (engine idling) until the idle speed just begins to drop. Unscrew the screw

Every 6000 miles or 6 months 1•9

10.11 Weber 2V TLD carburettor mixture screw (A) and idle speed screw (B)

10.14 Weber (1V) TLM carburettor idle

speed screw (A) and mixture screw (B)

10.10 Weber 2V DFTM carburettor mixture screw (A) and idle speed screw (B)

10.7 Weber 2V carburettor idle speed screw (A) and mixture screw (B)

Page 10

the smallest amount necessary to achieve smooth idle. The CO level of the exhaust gas should be checked by your dealer at the earliest opportunity and further adjustment carried out as may be necessary.

Weber 2V carburettor

16 Refer to the information relating to the Ford 1V carburettor for details. Ensure that the engine fan is operating by pulling the two wires from the sensor, and connecting the wires with a jumper lead.

Weber 2V DFTM carburettor

17 The cooling fan must be kept running during the adjustment procedure. To do this, disconnect the wiring multi-plug from the thermal switch (located in the thermostat housing) and bridge the two contacts in the plug with a short length of wire. 18 Ensure that the air cleaner is correctly fitted and that all vacuum hoses and pipes are securely connected and free from restrictions, then run the engine until it is at normal operating temperature. 19 Using a small screwdriver, prise out the tamperproof plug (if fitted) over the idle mixture screw. 20 Connect the CO meter and tachometer according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

21 Adjust the idle speed to the correct setting. 22 Run the engine at 3000 rpm for 30

seconds to clear the inlet manifold of excess fuel. Repeat this operation every 30 seconds during the adjustment procedure. 23 Turn the idle mixture screw in the desired direction to achieve the fastest possible engine speed consistent with smooth, even running; or the correct specified CO reading on the meter scale. 24 If necessary, readjust the idle speed setting. Refit the cooling fan multi-plug and fit a new tamperproof plug.

Weber 2V TLD carburettor

25 Refer to the information relating to the Weber 2V DFTM carburettor for details.

Weber (1V) TLM carburettor

26 Ensure that the air cleaner is correctly fitted and that all vacuum hoses and pipes are securely connected and free from restrictions, then run the engine until it is at normal operating temperature.

27 With the engine at normal operating temperature, connect a tachometer and exhaust gas analyser in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. 28 Prise out the tamperproof plug from the mixture screw hole in the throttle valve block. 29 Wait for the radiator cooling fan to operate, then raise the engine speed to 3000 rpm, hold it at this speed for 30 seconds, return to idle and check the exhaust CO level on the exhaust gas analyser. If it is not as specified, turn the mixture screw (clockwise to weaken) and repeat the checking procedure. 30 On completion, fit a new tamperproof plug.

12 Spark plug check

1 Pull the HT lead from each plug by grasping the end connector. Clean around each spark plug (see illustration). Remove each plug (see illustration) and check its electrode gap, which should be within the limits stated in Specifications. 2 To adjust the gap, bend the outer electrode with a proper spark plug gapping tool. Recheck the gap using feeler blades or wire gauges (see illustrations). 3 Note that the correct functioning of each plug is vital for the correct running and efficiency of the engine. It is essential that the plugs fitted are appropriate for the engine and the suitable type is specified at the beginning of this Chapter. Spark plug cleaning is rarely

necessary and should not be attempted unless specialised equipment is available as damage can easily be caused to the firing ends. 4 The appearance of a removed spark plug can give some indication of the condition or state of tune of the engine, but as modern engines run on a weaker fuel/air mixture in order to conform to current emission control regulations, a rather whiter appearance of the spark plug electrode area must be expected than was the case on older cars. As the mixture control is preset during production, a black appearance of the plug electrode will normally be due to oil passing worn piston rings or valve stem oil seals, unless the carburettor has been tampered with. 5 When installing the plugs use a long reach socket, apply a little grease to the threads of the plugs (see illustration)and tighten them only to the specified torque wrench setting. Overtightening may damage the plug or its seat.

1•10 Every 6000 miles or 6 months

12.1a Clean around each spark plug . . .

12.2a Measuring a spark plug electrode gap with a feeler blade

12.5 Lightly grease the spark plug threads before fitting

12.2c Adjusting a spark plug electrode gap with a special tool

12.2b Measuring a spark plug electrode gap with a wire gauge

12.1b . . . before using a socket to remove the spark plugs

Page 11

13 HT lead, distributor cap and

ignition circuit check

1 Clean each HT lead by wiping along its length with a fuel-moistened cloth and inspect it for damage. 2 Note the fitted position of each lead before disconnection (see illustrations). When removing a lead from a spark plug or the HT coil, pull the lead off by its rubber connector

(see illustration). 3 The socket contacts on the distributor cap

should be cleaned if they appear corroded (see illustration). A smear of petroleum jelly (not grease) applied to the ferrule on the end of the HT lead will help to prevent corrosion.

4 Remove the distributor cap and rotor arm. 5 Examine the rotor arm and inside of the

distributor cap . If the contacts are corroded or are excessively burnt, or if the carbon centre contact in the cap is worn away, renew the cap or rotor, as necessary. Check carefully for hairline cracks and signs of arcing. Make sure that the HT leads are reinstalled in their correct firing order. 6 Check that all HT and LT electrical leads are correctly routed and clear of all moving or hot engine components. Ensure that all lead connections are secure and where applicable, protected.

14 Hinge and lock check and

lubrication

1 Work around the vehicle, and lubricate the bonnet, door and tailgate hinges with a light machine oil. 2 Lightly lubricate the bonnet release mechanism and exposed sections of inner cable with a smear of grease. 3 Check the security and operation of all hinges, latches and locks, adjusting them where required. 4 Check the condition and operation of the tailgate struts, renewing them if either is leaking or is no longer able to support the tailgate securely when raised.

15 Ignition timing and contact

breaker gap (dwell angle) check - OHV engines

Contact breaker gap (dwell angle)

1 Access to the distributor is improved by removing the air cleaner unit. 2 Prise down the distributor cap retaining clips or remove the securing screws, as appropriate. Remove the distributor cap and rotor.

3 Apply a spanner to the crankshaft pulley bolt and turn the crankshaft until the distributor points are fully open, with the heel of the cam follower on the highest point of one of the lobes of the cam.

4 Using feeler blades, check the points gap (see illustration). If the blade is not a sliding

fit, release the screw at the fixed contact so that the contact will move and adjust the gap to that specified. Retighten the screw, refit the rotor and cap. Take care not to contaminate the points with oil from the feeler blades. 5 This method of adjustment should be regarded as second best as on modern engines, setting the points gap is usually carried out by measuring the dwell angle. 6 The dwell angle is the number of degrees through which the distributor cam turns during the period between the instants of closure and opening of the contact breaker points. Checking the dwell angle not only gives a more accurate setting of the contact breaker gap, but this method also evens out any variations in the gap which could be caused by pitting of the points, wear in the distributor shaft or its bushes, or difference in height of any of the cam peaks. 7 The dwell angle should be checked with a dwell meter connected in accordance with the maker’s instructions. Refer to the Specifications for the correct dwell angle. If the dwell angle is too large, increase the points gap. If it is too small, reduce the gap.

Every 6000 miles or 6 months 1•11

13.2c Pull the HT lead connector - not the lead

15.4 Checking the contact breaker points gap using a feeler blade

13.3 Inspect each HT lead end ferrule for corrosion

13.2b HT lead connections - CVH engines13.2a HT lead connections - OHV engines

Page 12

8 The dwell angle should always be adjusted before checking and adjusting the ignition timing, as follows:

Ignition timing

9 Before checking the timing, check and adjust the dwell angle with the engine at normal operating temperature. 10 Increase the contrast of the notch in the crankshaft pulley and the appropriate mark on the timing index (refer to Specifications) by applying quick-drying white paint (see

illustration). 11 Connect a timing light (stroboscope) in

accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions.

12 Start the engine and allow it to idle. 13 Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the

distributor and plug the pipe with a piece of rod. 14 If the timing light is now directed at the engine timing marks, the pulley notch will appear to be stationary and opposite the

specified mark on the scale. If the marks are not in alignment, release the distributor clamp pinch-bolt (see illustration) and turn the distributor in whichever direction is necessary to align the marks. 15 Retighten the pinch-bolt, switch off the engine, remove the timing light and reconnect the vacuum pipe. 16 It may now be necessary to check and adjust the engine idle speed if the distributor setting has to be varied to any extent.

16 Throttle damper operation

check

1 To check the operation of the throttle damper fitted to models equipped with a Ford VV carburettor, proceed as follows: 2 Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature, then switch off. Connect a tachometer in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. To keep the fan

running during the adjustment procedure, disconnect the wiring multi-plug from the thermal switch (located in the thermostat housing) and bridge the two contacts in the plug with a short length of wire. 3 Start the engine and increase its speed to 3200 ± 150 rpm by means of the idle speed adjustment screw. When the speed has stabilised, switch off the engine. 4 Rotate the secondary throttle lever clockwise to remove any play between the primary and secondary throttle levers, but ensure that the primary lever does not move. 5 Using a feeler blade, unscrew the damper until a clearance of 0.1 to 0.3 mm exists between the damper plunger and the secondary throttle lever (see illustration). Hold the damper in this position and tighten the locknut. 6 Start the engine and return the idle speed to the specified rpm. Disconnect the tachometer and bridging wire, refit the multi-plug, then refit the air cleaner.

17 Battery terminal check

with a solution of bicarbonate of soda, applied with an old toothbrush. Do not let this solution get inside the battery. 2 Coat the battery terminals with petroleum jelly or a proprietary anti-corrosive compound before reconnecting them (see illustration). Reconnect and tighten the positive (live) lead first, followed by the negative (earth) lead. Do not overtighten.

18 Engine valve clearance

check - OHV engines

1 This operation should be carried out with the engine cold and the air cleaner, spark plugs and rocker cover removed. 2 Using a ring spanner or socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt, turn the crankshaft in a clockwise direction until No 1 piston is at top dead centre (TDC) on its compression stroke. This can be verified by checking that the pulley and timing cover marks are in

1•12 Every 6000 miles or 6 months

15.10 Ignition timing marks - mechanical ignition system

A Crankshaft pulley notch B Timing cover scale

16.5 Setting throttle damper clearance using a feeler blade (arrowed) -

Ford VV carburettor

17.2 Protect each battery terminal before reconnection

15.14 Distributor clamp plate pinch-bolt (arrowed)

12 000 Mile (20 000 Km) / 12 Month Service

To keep corrosion to a minimum, coat the battery terminals with petroleum jelly or a proprietary anti-

corrosive compound.

When checking valve clearances, it will be easier to turn the engine by hand if

the spark plugs are removed but take care not to allow dirt to enter the spark plug holes.

Warning: Before carrying out any work on the vehicle battery, read through the precautions given in “Safety first!” at the

beginning of this manual.

Page 13

alignment and that the valves of No 4 cylinder are rocking. When the valves are rocking, this means that the slightest rotation of the crankshaft pulley in either direction will cause one rocker arm to move up and the other to move down. 3 Numbering from the thermostat housing end of the cylinder head, the valves are identified as follows:

Valve No Cylinder no

1 - Exhaust 1 2 - Inlet 1 3 - Exhaust 2 4 - Inlet 2 5 - Exhaust 3 6 - Inlet 3 7 - Exhaust 4 8 - Inlet 4

4 Adjust the valve clearances by following the sequence given in the following table. Turn the crankshaft pulley 180° (half a turn) after adjusting each pair:

Valves rocking Valves to adjust

7 and 8 1 (Exhaust), 2 (Inlet) 5 and 6 3 (Exhaust), 4 (Inlet) 1 and 2 7 (Exhaust), 8 (Inlet) 3 and 4 5 (Exhaust), 6 (Inlet)

5 The clearances for the inlet and exhaust valves are different (see Specifications). Use a feeler blade of the appropriate thickness to check each clearance between the end of the valve stem and the rocker arm. The blade should be a stiff sliding fit. If it is not, turn the adjuster bolt with a ring spanner. These bolts are of stiff thread type and require no locking nut. Turn the bolt clockwise to reduce the clearance and anti-clockwise to increase it

(see illustration). 6 Refit the rocker cover, spark plugs and air

cleaner on completion of adjustment.

19 Handbrake check

Pre-September 1985 models

1 Adjustment of the handbrake is normally automatic by means of the self-adjusting mechanism working on the rear brake shoes. 2 However, due to cable stretch, checking of the handbrake adjustment is recommended. Adjustment must be carried out if the movement of the lever becomes excessive (more than six notches). Proceed as follows: 3 Chock the front wheels then fully release the handbrake. 4 Raise and support the vehicle at the rear with safety stands. 5 On adjustment check that the plunger protrudes from each rear brake backplate (see illustration), their respective length of movement indicating the handbrake adjustment condition. Before checking their movement (stroke) length, firmly apply the footbrake to ensure that the automatic adjuster mechanism is fully actuated. 6 Now check the plunger stroke movement. If the total movement of both sides added

together is between 0.5 and 3.0 mm then adjustment is satisfactory. This should give three to six clicks (notches) of handbrake application movement. If there is no measurable plunger movement or if the total measurement exceeds that specified adjust as follows. 7 Loosen the handbrake cable locknut, then rotate the adjuster sleeve (see illustration) so that the plungers can just rotate and the total movement of both plungers is as specified above. 8 Hand tighten the locknut against the sleeve so that two engagement clicks are felt, then further tighten another two clicks using a suitable wrench.

Models from September 1985

9 Proceed as above, noting that since September 1985 a locking pin has been fitted to the cable adjuster abutment bracket to lock the adjuster sleeve and locknut together. 10 Should it be necessary to adjust the cable, the locking pin must be removed by pulling it out using pliers (see illustration). After adjustment a new nylon locking pin must be used and can be fitted by carefully tapping it into place.

Every 12 000 miles or 12 months 1•13

19.10 Removing the handbrake cable adjuster locking pin

19.7 Handbrake cable assembly

A Primary cable B Equaliser

C Adjuster sleeve D Locknut

E Secondary cable

19.5 Handbrake adjustment indicator plunger

18.5 Adjusting a valve clearance - OHV

Page 14

20 Auxiliary drivebelt check

Inspection

1 Check the full length of the drivebelt for cracks and deterioration. It will be necessary to turn the engine in order to check that portion of the drivebelt is in contact with the pulleys. 2 Check that the total deflection of the auxiliary drivebelt is 4.0 mm at the mid point of its longest run (see illustration). 3 Note that if the belt is too slack, it will slip and soon become glazed or burnt and the coolant pump (OHV) and alternator will not perform correctly, with consequent overheating of the engine and low battery charge. If the belt is too tight, the bearings in the alternator and/or coolant pump will soon be damaged. 4 If necessary, renew or tension the belt as follows:

Renewal

5 To remove a belt, slacken the alternator mounting bolts and the bolts on the adjuster link (see illustration), push the alternator in towards the engine and slip the belt from the pulleys. 6 Fit the belt by slipping it over the pulley rims while the alternator is still loose on its mountings. Never be tempted to remove or fit a belt by prising it over a pulley without releasing the alternator. Either the pulley will be damaged or the alternator or coolant pump will be distorted.

Tensioning

7 To change the belt tension, pull the alternator away from the engine until the belt is fairly taut and nip up the adjuster strap bolt. A little trial and error may be required to obtain the correct tension. 8 Do not lever against the body of the alternator to tension the belt or damage may occur. 9 Recheck the tension of the drivebelt after the engine has been run for ten minutes.

21 Spark plug renewal

1 The correct functioning of the spark plugs is vital for the correct running and efficiency of the engine. It is essential that the plugs fitted are of the type appropriate for the engine. 2 Make sure that the ignition is switched off before inspecting the HT leads to see if they carry their cylinder numbers - if not, number each lead using sticky tape or paint. 3 Where necessary, for improved access, remove the air cleaner assembly. 4 Disconnect the leads from the plugs by pulling on the connectors, not the leads. 5 Clean the area around each spark plug using a small brush, then using a plug spanner (preferably with a rubber insert),

unscrew and remove the plugs. Cover each exposed spark plug hole with a clean rag to prevent the ingress of any foreign matter. 6 Before fitting new spark plugs, check that the threaded connector sleeves are tight. 7 Check the electrode gap of each plug with a feeler blade of the specified thickness and if necessary, bend the outer electrode with a proper spark plug gapping tool to set the gap to the specified clearance. 8 Coat the threads of each plug with suitable anti-seize compound, taking care not to contaminate the electrodes. 9 Screw in the spark plugs by hand, then tighten them to the specified torque. Do not

exceed the torque figure.

10 Push the HT leads firmly onto the spark plugs and where necessary, refit the air cleaner assembly.

22 Gearbox oil level check

Caution: Gearbox oil can foam when hot and give a false level reading. Allow the gearbox to cool before checking the oil level.

Note: Regular oil changing is not specified by the manufacturers but the gearbox oil can be drained if necessary (prior to removal of the unit or after traversing a flooded road for example) by removing the selector shaft locking mechanism (see illustration).

1 The following procedure should be adopted when checking the oil level on all gearbox types. 2 Ensure that the car is standing on level ground and the gearbox is cool. 3 Unscrew the filler plug from the front face of the gearbox. The plug is of socket-headed type and a suitable key will be required for removal (see illustration). 4 With the plug removed, check the oil level. To do this accurately, make up an oil level check dipstick from a short length of welding rod or similar material. Make a 90° bend in the rod, then mark the downward leg in 5 mm increments. The dipstick is then inserted through the filler plug orifice so that the unmarked leg rests flat on the plug orifice

1•14 Every 12 000 miles or 12 months

20.2 Auxiliary drivebelt tension checking point - OHV

22.3 Gearbox oil filler plug location (arrowed)

22.0 Remove the selector shaft locking mechanism to drain the gearbox oil

A Selector shaft

cap nut

B Spring C Interlock pin

20.5 Alternator adjuster and mounting bolts - OHV

A Adjuster link clamp bolt B Adjuster link-to-block bolt C Lower front mounting bolt D Lower rear mounting bolt

Number each HT lead using sticky tape or paint before removal so as to avoid confusion when refitting.

Page 15

threads, with the marked leg dipped in the oil. Withdraw the dipstick and read off the level of oil. 5 On gearboxes manufactured up to August 1985 the oil level must be maintained between 5 and 10 mm below the lower edge of the filler plug hole. 6 On gearboxes manufactured from September 1985 onwards the oil level must be maintained between 0 and 5 mm below the lower edge of the filler plug hole. 7 To determine the date of gearbox manufacture, locate the aluminium build code tag which will be attached to one of the gearbox housing retaining bolts. The gearbox part number is stamped on the tag and if the last letter of the part number suffix is a “D”, then the gearbox is of the early type. If the last letter of the suffix is an “E”, then the gearbox is of the later type. 8 Top-up the gearbox with the specified type of oil if necessary until the level is correct for the gearbox type (see “Lubricants and fluids”). Take care not to overfill the unit as this can lead to excessive heat build-up, increased leakage and impaired gear changing.

9 On completion, refit the filler plug.

23 Contact breaker point

renewal and distributor lubrication - OHV engines

1 If necessary, remove the air cleaner assembly to allow ready access to the distributor. Identify and disconnect the leads from the spark plugs, prise down the distributor cap clips or remove the screws, and place the cap and leads to one side.

2 Remove the rotor arm. 3 Pull off the contact breaker LT lead from the points (see illustration). 4 Unscrew and remove the screw from the

fixed contact arm. Take great care not to drop the screw into the interior of the distributor: if necessary, cover the openings in the

baseplate with rag before starting to remove the screw. 5 With the screw removed, lift out the contact breaker assembly. 6 Fit and adjust the new contact breaker set, leaving the securing screw loose until the gap has been set. 7 Apply a little high melting-point grease to the distributor cam. (Grease may be supplied with the new contact breaker set.) 8 Refit the rotor arm and the distributor cap and reconnect the spark plug leads in their previously noted location. 9 Check and adjust the dwell angle and the ignition timing.

24 Steering and suspension

security check

1 Check the shock absorbers by bouncing the vehicle up and down at each corner in turn. When released, it should come to rest within one complete oscillation. Continued movement, or squeaking and groaning noises from the shock absorber suggests that renewal is required. 2 With the weight of the vehicle on its roadwheels, inspect all of the suspension

flexible bushes for wear and check the torque wrench settings of all bolts and nuts. 3 Raise and support the vehicle. Examine all steering and suspension components for wear, damage and fluid leakage. Pay particular attention to dust covers and gaiters (see illustration), which if renewed promptly when damaged can save further damage to the component protected. 4 At the same intervals, check the front suspension lower arm balljoints for wear by levering up the arms (see illustration). Balljoint free movement must not exceed 0.5 mm. The track rod end balljoints can be checked in a similar manner, or by observing them whilst an assistant rocks the steering wheel back and forth. If the lower arm balljoint is worn, the complete lower arm must be renewed. 5 Wheel bearings can be checked for wear by spinning the relevant roadwheel. Any roughness or excessive noise indicates worn bearings, which must be renewed, as no adjustment is possible. It is unlikely that any wear will be evident unless the vehicle has covered a very high mileage. It should be noted that it is normal for the bearings to exhibit slight endfloat, which is perceptible as wheel rock at the wheel rim.

25 Underbody inspection

1 Except on vehicles with a wax-based underbody protective coating, have the whole of the underframe of the vehicle steamcleaned, engine compartment included, so that a thorough inspection can be carried out to see what minor repairs and renovations are necessary. 2 Steam-cleaning is available at many garages and is necessary for the removal of the accumulation of oily grime which sometimes is allowed to become thick in

Every 12 000 miles or 12 months 1•15

24.4 Apply leverage to check for excessive balljoint wear

24.3 Inspect the steering rack bellows23.3 Contact breaker points removal

A LT lead connector B Securing screw

C Vacuum advance strut

circlip

Page 16

certain areas. If steam-cleaning facilities are not available, there are some excellent grease solvents available, which can be brushapplied; the dirt can then be simply hosed off. 3 After cleaning, position the vehicle over a pit, or raise it at front and rear on ramps or axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”). 4 Using a strong light, work around the underside of the vehicle, inspecting it for corrosion or damage. If either is found, refer to Chapter 11 for details of repair.

26 Brake pipe and hose check

1 Periodically inspect the rigid brake pipes for rust and other damage, and the flexible hoses for cracks, splits or “ballooning” (see illustration). Have an assistant depress the brake pedal (ignition on) and inspect the hose and pipe unions for leaks. Renew any defective item without delay.

27 Road test

Instruments and electrical equipment

1 Check the operation of all instruments and electrical equipment. 2 Make sure that all instruments read correctly, switch on all electrical equipment in turn to check that it functions properly.

Steering and suspension

3 Check for any abnormalities in the steering, suspension, handling or road “feel”. 4 Drive the vehicle, and check that there are no unusual vibrations or noises. 5 Check that the steering feels positive, with no excessive “sloppiness”, or roughness, and check for any suspension noises when cornering, or when driving over bumps.

Drivetrain

6 Check the performance of the engine, clutch, transmission and driveshafts. 7 Listen for any unusual noises from the engine, clutch and transmission. 8 Make sure that the engine runs smoothly when idling, and that there is no hesitation when accelerating. 9 Where applicable, check that the clutch action is smooth and progressive, that the drive is taken up smoothly, and that the pedal travel is not excessive. Also listen for any noises when the clutch pedal is depressed. 10 Check that all gears can be engaged smoothly, without noise, and that the gear lever action is not abnormally vague or “notchy”.

Check the operation and performance of the braking system

11 Make sure that the vehicle does not pull to one side when braking, and that the wheels do not lock prematurely when braking hard. 12 Check that there is no vibration through the steering when braking. 13 Check that the handbrake operates correctly, without excessive movement of the

lever, and that it holds the vehicle stationary on a slope. 14 Test the operation of the brake servo unit as follows. With the engine off, depress the footbrake four or five times to exhaust the vacuum. Start the engine, holding the brake pedal depressed. As the engine starts, there should be a noticeable “give” in the brake pedal as vacuum builds up. Allow the engine to run for at least two minutes, and then switch it off. If the brake pedal is depressed now, it should be possible to detect a hiss from the servo as the pedal is depressed. After about four or five applications, no further hissing should be heard, and the pedal should feel considerably firmer.

28 Crankcase ventilation

system check

1 Inspect the crankcase ventilation system for blockage or damage. A blocked hose can cause a build-up of crankcase pressure, which in turn can cause oil leaks. 2 Inspect each hose for distortion, perishing and correct routing. 3 Clean the oil filler cap with solvent and check that the vent hose connections are not blocked (see illustration). 4 Clean the emission control orifice located in the oil filler assembly with solvent (see illustration).

1•16 Every 12 000 miles or 12 months

26.1 Bend flexible brake hoses to check for splitting and decay

28.4 Clean emission control orifice in solvent - OHV shown

28.3 Oil filler cap and breather hoses

Page 17

29 Air cleaner temperature

control check

Note: A vacuum pump will be required for this check if the heat sensor or diaphragm unit is at fault.

1 The air cleaner temperature control unit can be checked for operation whilst the engine is cold. Look into the air inlet spout and check that the air control flap valve is in the shut position (see illustration). 2 Now start the engine and allow it to idle. The flap valve should open fully to allow the warm air to be drawn into the cleaner unit from the exhaust manifold ducting. As the engine warms up to its normal operating temperature the flap valve should progressively close to allow cooler air to enter the cleaner unit. 3 If the valve is stuck in the shut position, check the vacuum lines for condition and security. If these are in order, then the heat sensor or diaphragm unit is at fault. Proceed as follows: 4 Detach the diaphragm-to-heat sensor vacuum pipe (at the sensor end) and connect up a vacuum pump to the diaphragm. Pump and apply a vacuum up to 100 mm of mercury and retain this whilst checking the air flap. 5 If the flap opens, the heat sensor is defective and must be renewed, but if it remains shut then the diaphragm or control flap is faulty. 6 Disconnect the vacuum pump and reconnect the vacuum pipe to the sensor unit.

30 Emission control filter

element renewal - CVH

engines

1 Gain access to the emission control filter by detaching the hose from the air cleaner unit

(see illustration).

2 Withdraw the used filter and fit a new item.

Ensure that the hose is securely reconnected.

31 Air cleaner element renewal

1 Renew the air cleaner element by first removing the air cleaner unit lid. To do this, undo and remove the retaining screws and prise free the lid from the retaining clips around its periphery (see illustration). 2 Remove and discard the paper element and wipe out the air cleaner casing (see

illustration). 3 Place the new element in position and refit

the lid.

32 Brake hydraulic system seal

and hose renewal

If in doubt as to the condition of any of the brake system seals and hoses, then renew defective items whilst referring to the relevant Sections of Chapter 9.

33 Brake hydraulic fluid renewal

1 An assistant and bleeding equipment will be needed. A considerable quantity of hydraulic fluid will be required - probably about 2 litres.

2 Slacken the front wheel nuts. Raise and support the front of the vehicle and remove the front wheels.

3 Remove the hydraulic fluid reservoir cap. 4 Open both front bleed screws one full turn.

Attach one bleed tube to each screw, placing the free end of each tube in a jar. 5 Pump the brake pedal to expel fluid from the bleed screws. Pause after each upstroke to allow the master cylinder to refill.

Every 24 000 miles or 2 years 1•17

31.1 Remove the air cleaner lid securing screws . . .

30.1 Detach hose downwards for access to crankcase emission filter in air cleaner

body

29.1 Air cleaner inlet sensor and

diaphragm flap valve operating modes

1 Sensor cold 2 Sensor hot

24 000 Mile (40 000 Km) / every 2 years

36 000 Mile (60 000 Km) / every 3 years

31.2 . . . to expose the air cleaner element

Page 18

6 When air emerges from both bleed screws,

stop pumping. Detach the left-hand caliper without disconnecting it and remove the inboard brake pad. 7 Depress the caliper piston, using a purpose-made tool or a blunt item such as a tyre lever, to force more fluid out of the caliper. Hold the piston depressed and have the assistant pump the pedal until air emerges from the bleed screw again. 8 Tighten the bleed screw on the left-hand caliper. Loosely refit the caliper and pad so that the piston is not accidentally ejected. 9 Repeat the purging operation on the righthand caliper, but do not refit it or tighten the bleed screw yet. 10 Fill the reservoir with fresh hydraulic fluid. Position the bleed jar for the right-hand caliper at least 300 mm above the level of the bleed screw. 11 Have the assistant pump the brake pedal until fluid free of bubbles emerges from the bleed screw. Tighten the bleed screw at the end of a downstroke.

12 Place a piece of wood in the caliper jaws to limit piston travel. Keep your fingers clear of the piston. Have the assistant depress the brake pedal gently in order to move the caliper piston out. 13 With the pedal held depressed, slacken the bleed screw on the right-hand caliper and again depress the piston. Tighten the bleed screw when the piston is retracted. The pedal can now be released. 14 Disconnect the bleed tube. Refit the righthand brake pad and caliper. 15 Remove the left-hand caliper and inboard pad again. Carry out the operations described in paragraphs 10 to 14 on the left-hand caliper. 16 Bleed the rear brakes as described in Chapter 9. 17 Refit the front wheels, lower the vehicle and tighten the wheel nuts. 18 Pump the brake pedal to bring the pads up to the discs, then make a final check of the hydraulic fluid level. Top-up and refit the reservoir cap.

34 Timing belt renewal - CVH

engines

Timing belt renewal is recommended for CVH engines. Refer to Chapter 2, Part B for the appropriate renewal procedure.

35 Front wheel alignment check

Due to the need for precision equipment to accurately measure the small angles of the steering and suspension settings appertaining to front wheel alignment, it is preferable to leave this work to a specialist. However, if you wish to check front wheel alignment yourself, refer to the information given in Chapter 10.

36 Engine coolant renewal

Draining

1 It is preferable to drain the system when the coolant is cold. If it must be drained when hot, release the pressure cap very slowly having first covered it with a cloth to avoid any possibility of scalding. 2 Set the heater control to maximum heat position. 3 Place a container under the radiator and release the bottom hose or, where fitted, unscrew the radiator drain plug and allow the system to drain into the container (see illustrations).

Flushing

4 Provided the coolant is of the specified type, then no flushing should be necessary. 5 Where the system has been neglected

however, and rust or sludge is evident at draining, then the system should be flushed through with a cold water hose inserted into the thermostat housing (thermostat removed) until the water flows clean from the disconnected bottom hose and the radiator. If, after a reasonable period, the water still does not run clear the radiator can be flushed with a good proprietary cleaning agent. 6 In severe cases, the drain plug on the cylinder block of OHV models can be unscrewed to assist sludge removal and flushing (see illustration). On CVH models there is no drain plug on the cylinder block so you will need to detach the bottom hose. 7 If the radiator is suspected of being clogged, remove it and reverse flush it with a cold water hose. The normal coolant flow is from left to right (from the thermostat housing to the radiator) through the matrix and out of the opposite side. 8 When the coolant is being changed, it is recommended that the overflow pipe is disconnected from the expansion tank and

the coolant drained from the tank. If the interior of the tank is dirty, remove it and thoroughly clean it out. Evidence of oil within the expansion tank may indicate a leaking cylinder head gasket.

Refilling

9 Reconnect the radiator and expansion tank hoses, and refit the cylinder block drain plug (OHV), or connect the bottom hose (CVH), as applicable. 10 Using the specified antifreeze (see “Lubricants and fluids”), fill the system via the expansion tank, until the coolant level reaches the “maximum” mark. Allow time for air in the system to bubble through and add more coolant if necessary. Repeat until the level does not drop and refit the cap. 11 Start the engine and run it to normal operating temperature. Once it has cooled, check and carry out any final topping-up to the expansion tank.

1•18 Every 36 000 miles or 3 years

36.6 The cylinder block drain plug (arrowed) - OHV

36.3b The radiator bottom hose clamp36.3a The radiator drain plug (arrowed)

Every 2 years (regardless of mileage)

Page 19

General

Engine type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Four-cylinder, overhead valve, water-cooled

1.0 litre 1.1 litre

Firing order (No 1 at timing cover end) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-2-4-3 1-2-4-3

Bore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73.96 mm 73.96 mm

Stroke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55.70 mm 64.98 mm

Cubic capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 957 cc 1117 cc

Compression ratio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.5 : 1 9.5 : 1

Compression pressure at starter speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.5 to 11.5 kgf/cm

13.3 to 15.3 kgf/cm

Idle speed (rpm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 750 to 850 750 to 850

Maximum continuous engine speed (rpm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5950 5450

Engine output (DIN) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 kW at 5750 rpm 37 kW at 5000 rpm

Engine torque (DIN) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.9 kgf m at 3700 rpm 8.4 kgf m at 2700 rpm

Cylinder block

Number of main bearings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Cylinder bore diameter:

Standard (1) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73.940 to 73.950 mm

Standard (2) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73.950 to 73.960 mm

Standard (3) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73.960 to 73.970 mm

Standard (4) and service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73.970 to 73.980 mm

Oversizes:

0.5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74.500 to 74.510 mm

1.0 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75.000 to 75.010 mm

Main bearing bore:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60.623 to 60.636 mm

Oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61.003 to 61.016 mm

Camshaft bearing bore:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.888 to 42.918 mm

Oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43.396 to 43.420 mm

Central main bearing width (less thrustwashers) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22.04 to 22.10 mm

Crankshaft

Endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.072 to 0.285 mm

Main journal diameter:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56.990 to 57.000 mm

Yellow dot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56.980 to 56.990 mm

0.254 undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56.726 to 56.746 mm

0.508 undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56.472 to 56.492 mm

0.762 undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56.218 to 56.238 mm

Chapter 2 Part A:

OHV engine repair procedures

Crankshaft front oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Cylinder head - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

Cylinder head and pistons - decarbonising . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15

Engine - dismantling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

Engine - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

Engine - reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16

Engine/transmission mountings - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . .11

Engine/transmission - reconnection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17

Engine/transmission - removal and separation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1

Oil filter and pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10

Operations only possible with engine removed from vehicle . . . . . . . .3

Operations possible without removing engine from vehicle . . . . . . . . .2

Pistons/connecting rods - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9

Rocker gear - dismantling and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

Sump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

Valve clearances - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

2A•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable for

novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Page 20

Crankshaft (continued)

Main bearing shell width . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21.2 to 21.6 mm

Main bearing shell play . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.009 to 0.046 mm

Crankpin (big-end) diameter:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.99 to 43.01 mm

0.254 undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.74 to 42.76 mm

0.508 undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.49 to 42.51 mm

0.762 undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.24 to 42.26 mm

Thrustwasher thicknesses:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.80 to 2.85 mm

Oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.99 to 3.04 mm

Camshaft

Number of bearings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Camshaft bearing diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39.615 to 39.635 mm

Bearing bush inside diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39.662 to 39.682 mm

Camshaft thrust plate thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.457 to 4.508 mm

Camshaft endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.062 to 0.193 mm

Cam lift:

Inlet valve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.300 mm

Exhaust valve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.300 mm

Cam length (heel to toe):

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32.288 to 32.516 mm

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32.615 to 32.846 mm

Pistons

Diameter:

Standard (1) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73.910 to 73.920 mm

Standard (2) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73.920 to 73.930 mm

Standard (3) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73.930 to 73.940 mm

Standard (4) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73.940 to 73.950 mm

Standard service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73.930 to 73.955 mm

0.5 oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74.460 to 74.485 mm

1.0 oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74.960 to 74.985 mm

Piston-to-bore clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.015 to 0.050 mm

Piston ring gap (fitted):

Top and 2nd rings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.25 to 0.45 mm

Bottom ring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.20 to 0.40 mm

Bottom (oil control) ring gap position . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . In line with gudgeon pin

2nd ring gap position . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90° to oil control ring gap

Top ring gap position . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180° to oil control ring gap

Gudgeon pins

Pin length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54.6 to 55.4 mm

Pin diameters:

White . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.622 to 20.625 mm

Red . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.625 to 20.628 mm

Blue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.628 to 20.631 mm

Yellow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.631 to 20.634 mm

Connecting rod interference at 21°C (70°F) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.013 to 0.045 mm

Pin-to-piston interference at 21°C (70°F) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.005 to 0.011 mm

Connecting rods

Big-end bore diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46.685 to 46.705 mm

Small-end bore diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.589 to 20.609 mm

Bearing shell inside diameter (fitted):

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43.016 to 43.050 mm

0.254 undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.768 to 42.802 mm

0.508 undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.518 to 42.552 mm

0.762 undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.268 to 42.302 mm

1.016 undersize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.018 to 42.052 mm

Journal-to-bearing shell clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.006 to 0.060 mm

Cylinder head

Valve seat angle (inlet and exhaust) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45°

Valve seat width (inlet and exhaust) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.20 to 1.75 mm

Lower correction angle (inlet and exhaust) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30°

Upper correction angle (inlet and exhaust) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80°

Upper correction angle - service cutter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75°

Valve stem bore (inlet and exhaust):

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.907 to 7.938 mm

0.381 oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.288 to 8.319 mm

2A•2 OHV engine repair procedures

Page 21

Valves

Clearances . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Servicing Specifications in Chapter 1

Tappet diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13.081 to 13.094 mm

Tappet clearance in cylinder block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.25 to 20.75 mm

Valve spring free length (inlet and exhaust) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 mm

Valve lift (excluding clearance) (inlet and exhaust) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.367 mm

Valve head diameter:

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32.89 to 33.15 mm

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29.01 to 29.27 mm

Valve stem diameter:

Inlet valves:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.868 to 7.886 mm

0.076 oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.944 to 7.962 mm

0.381 oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.249 to 8.267 mm

Exhaust valves:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.846 to 7.864 mm

0.076 oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.922 to 7.940 mm

0.381 oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.227 to 8.245 mm

Valve stem-to-guide clearance:

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.021 to 0.070 mm

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.043 to 0.092 mm

Valve timing:

Inlet valve opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14° BTDC

Inlet valve closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46° ABDC

Exhaust valve opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65° BBDC

Exhaust valve closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11° ATDC

Lubrication system

Minimum oil pressure at 80°C (175°F) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.6 kgf/cm2at 750 rpm

Warning light operates at . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.32 to 0.53 kgf/cm

Relief valve opening pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.41 to 2.75 kgf/cm

Oil pump clearances:

Outer rotor-to-housing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.14 to 0.26 mm

Inner-to-outer rotor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.051 to 0.127 mm

Rotors-to-cover endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.025 to 0.06 mm

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Main bearing cap bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 70

Connecting rod (big-end) bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 23

Rear oil seal retainer bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 13

Flywheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 50

Chain tensioner bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6

Camshaft thrust plate bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 3

Camshaft sprocket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 14

Timing cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Coolant pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Crankshaft pulley bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 40

Coolant pump pulley bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Starter motor bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 30

Fuel pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 13

Oil pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 14

Sump drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Sump fixing bolts:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 8

Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 8

Oil pressure sender . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11

Coolant temperature sender . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11

Rocker shaft pedestal bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 31

Cylinder head bolts:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 35

Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 65

Stage 4 (after 15 minutes delay) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109 80

Rocker cover screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 3

Exhaust manifold nuts and bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 12

Inlet manifold nuts and bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 14

Carburettor flange nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 14

Thermostat housing cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 14

Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 14

Engine-to-transmission bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 30

Transmission oil filler plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

OHV engine repair procedures 2A•3

Page 22

1 General information

The engine is of an overhead valve type based upon the “Kent” design used in many earlier Ford models. It is mounted transversely at the front of the vehicle together with the transmission to form a combined power train.

The engine is a water-cooled, four-cylinder in-line type, having overhead valves operated by tappets, pushrods and rocker arms. The camshaft is located within the cylinder block and chain-driven from the crankshaft. A gear on the camshaft drives the oil pump and the distributor, whilst a cam operates the fuel pump lever.

The cylinder head is of crossflow type, having the exhaust manifold mounted on the opposite side to the inlet manifold. The crankshaft runs in three main bearings, with endfloat controlled by semi-circular thrustwashers located on either side of the centre main bearing.

The oil pump is mounted externally on the cylinder block just below the distributor, and the full-flow type oil filter is screwed directly into the oil pump.

2 Operations possible without

removing engine from vehicle

1 The following work can be carried out

without having to remove the engine:

a) Cylinder head - removal and refitting b) Valve clearances - adjustment c) Sump - removal and refitting d) Rocker gear - overhaul e) Crankshaft front oil seal - renewal f) Pistons/connecting rods - removal and

refitting g) Engine mountings - renewal h) Oil filter - removal and refitting i) Oil pump - removal and refitting

3 Operations only possible

with engine removed from vehicle

1 The following work should be carried out

only after the engine has been removed from the vehicle.

a) *Crankshaft main bearings - renewal b) Crankshaft - removal and refitting c) **Flywheel - removal and refitting d) **Crankshaft rear oil seal - renewal e) Camshaft - removal and refitting f) Timing gears and chain - removal and

refitting

2 Although it is possible to undertake the job marked * without removing the engine, and those marked ** by removing the transmission, such work is not recommended and is unlikely to save much time over that required to withdraw the complete engine/ transmission.

4 Cylinder head - removal and

refitting

Removal

1 If the engine is in the vehicle, carry out the preliminary operations described in paragraphs 2 to 15. 2 Open the bonnet and fit protective covers to the front wing upper surfaces. 3 Disconnect the battery earth strap. It is as well to remove the battery, so that no metal objects are placed across its terminals.

4 Remove the air cleaner unit. 5 Drain the cooling system. Note that the

coolant should have an antifreeze solution mix and can be used again, so drain into a suitable container for re-use. 6 Disconnect the hoses from the thermostat housing.

7 Detach the choke cable. 8 Release the throttle cable from the

carburettor operating lever by moving the spring clip and removing the bracket fixing bolt (see illustration). 9 Disconnect the fuel and vacuum pipes from the carburettor. 10 Disconnect the breather hose from the inlet manifold. 11 On vehicles with servo-assisted brakes, disconnect the vacuum hose from the inlet manifold. 12 Disconnect the HT leads from the spark plugs. 13 Disconnect the electrical leads from the temperature sender unit, inlet manifold, carburettor and radiator fan thermal switch. 14 Unbolt and remove the heated air box from the exhaust manifold (where fitted) (see

illustration). 15 Disconnect the exhaust downpipe from

the manifold by unbolting the connecting flanges. Support the exhaust system at the front end. 16 Pull free and remove the oil filler cap with breather hoses. 17 Extract the four screws and remove the rocker cover. 18 Unscrew and remove the four fixing bolts and lift away the rocker shaft assembly from the cylinder head.

19 Withdraw the pushrods, keeping them in their originally fitted sequence. A simple way to do this is to punch holes in a piece of card and number them 1 to 8 from the thermostat housing end of the cylinder head (see

illustration). 20 Remove the spark plugs. 21 Unscrew the cylinder head bolts

progressively in the reverse order to that given for tightening. Remove the cylinder head.

Refitting

Caution: Never use jointing compound when refitting the cylinder head and gasket.

22 Before refitting the cylinder head, remove every particle of carbon, old gasket and dirt from the mating surfaces of the cylinder head and block. Do not let the removed material drop into the cylinder bores or waterways: if it does, remove it. Normally, when a cylinder head is removed, the head is decarbonised and the valves ground in to remove all traces of carbon. 23 Clean the threads of the cylinder head bolts and mop out oil from the bolt holes in the cylinder block. In extreme cases, screwing a bolt into an oil-filled hole can cause the block to fracture due to hydraulic pressure.

2A•4 OHV engine repair procedures

4.14 Heated air box on exhaust manifold

4.8 Disconnect the throttle cable and bracket

4.19 Withdraw the pushrods

Tap a stuck cylinder head free with a wooden mallet. Do not insert a lever into the head joint as this may

damage the mating faces.

Page 23

24 If there is any doubt about the condition of the inlet or exhaust gaskets, unbolt the manifolds and fit new ones to perfectly clean mating surfaces. 25 Locate a new cylinder head gasket on the cylinder block, making quite sure that the bolt holes, coolant passages and lubrication holes are correctly aligned. 26 Lower the cylinder head carefully into position on the block. 27 Screw in all the bolts finger tight and then tighten them in four stages, in the sequence shown (see illustration) to the specified torque.

28 Refit the pushrods in their original order. 29 Lower the rocker shaft assembly into

position, making sure that the rocker adjusting screws engage in the sockets at the ends of the pushrods (see illustration). 30 Screw in the rocker pedestal bolts finger tight. At this stage, some of the rocker arms will be applying pressure to the ends of the valve stems and some of the rocker pedestals will not be in contact with the cylinder head. The pedestals will be pulled down, however, when the bolts are tightened to the specified torque, which should now be done.

31 Adjust the valve clearances. 32 Refit the rocker cover. If the gasket is in

anything but perfect condition, renew it. 33 Fit the oil filler cap and breather hose and the spark plugs. Tighten these to the specified

torque. They are of tapered seat type, no sealing washers being used. 34 Connect the exhaust downpipe and fit the heated air box. 35 Reconnect all electrical leads, vacuum and coolant hoses. 36 Reconnect the cables. Refit the battery (if removed) and reconnect the battery terminals.

37 Fit the air cleaner. 38 Refill the cooling system.

5 Valve clearances -

adjustment

Refer to Chapter 1, Section 18.

6 Sump - removal and refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery earth lead and drain the engine oil. 2 Unbolt and withdraw the starter motor. Support the motor to avoid straining the electrical wiring.

3 Unbolt and remove the clutch cover plate.

4 Extract the sump securing bolts and

remove the sump. If it is stuck, prise it gently with a screwdriver, but do not use excessive leverage. If it is very tight, cut round the gasket joint using a sharp knife.

Refitting

5 Before refitting the sump, remove the front and rear sealing strips and gaskets. Clean the mating surfaces of the sump and cylinder block. 6 Stick new gaskets into position on the block using thick grease to retain them, then install new sealing strips into their grooves so that they overlap the gaskets (see

illustration). 7 Before offering up the sump, check that the

gap between the sump and oil baffle is between 2.0 and 3.8 mm (see illustration). 8 Screw in the sump bolts and tighten in three stages to the specified torque (see illustration):

Stage 1 - in alphabetical order Stage 2 - in numerical order Stage 3 - in alphabetical order

9 It is important to follow this procedure in order to provide sealing against oil leakage. 10 Refit the clutch cover plate and the starter motor and reconnect the battery. 11 Refill the engine with the correct grade and quantity of oil.

OHV engine repair procedures 2A•5

6.8 Sump retaining bolt tightening

sequence - arrow indicates front of engine

6.7 Sump-to-baffle plate must be as shown

A Sump B Baffle

6.6 Sump gaskets and sealing strips

A Timing cover end B Flywheel end

4.29 Refit the rocker shaft assembly - engaging the adjuster balls into the pushrod caps (sockets)

4.27 Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence

Page 24

7 Rocker gear - dismantling

and reassembly

1 With the rocker assembly removed, extract the split pin from one end of the rocker shaft. 2 Take off the spring and plain washers from the end of the shaft. 3 Slide off the rocker arms, support pedestals and coil springs, keeping them in their originally fitted order (see illustration). Clean out the oil holes in the shaft. 4 Apply engine oil to the rocker shaft before reassembling and make sure that the flat on the end of the shaft is to the same side as the rocker arm adjuster screws (see illustration). This is essential for proper lubrication of the components. 5 If a new rocker shaft is being fitted, check that the end plug is located correctly (see

illustration).

8 Crankshaft front oil seal -

renewal

1 Disconnect the battery earth cable. 2 Slacken the alternator mounting and

adjuster bolts and after pushing the alternator in towards the engine, slip off the drivebelt. 3 Unscrew and remove the crankshaft pulley bolt. To prevent the crankshaft turning while the bolt is being released, jam the teeth of the starter ring gear on the flywheel after removing the clutch cover plate or starter motor for access.

4 Remove the crankshaft pulley. This should come out using the hands but, if it is tight, prise it carefully with two levers placed at opposite sides under the pulley flange. 5 Using a suitable claw tool, prise out the defective seal and wipe out the seat (see

illustration). 6 Install the new seal using a suitable

distance piece, the pulley and its bolt to draw it into position. If it is tapped into position, the seal may be distorted or the timing cover fractured. 7 When the seal is fully seated, remove the pulley and bolt, apply grease to the seal rubbing surface of the pulley, install it and tighten the securing bolt to the specified torque.

8 Refit the clutch cover or starter motor. 9 Fit and tension the drivebelt and reconnect

the battery.

9 Pistons/connecting rods -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 Remove the cylinder head and the sump. Do not remove the oil pick-up filter or pipe, which is an interference fit. 2 Note the location numbers stamped on the connecting rod big-ends and caps, and to which side they face (see illustration). No 1 assembly is nearest the timing cover and the assembly numbers are towards the camshaft side of the engine.

3 Turn the crankshaft by means of the pulley bolt until the big-end cap bolts for No 1 connecting rod are in their most accessible position. Unscrew and remove the bolts and the big-end cap complete with bearing shell. If the cap is difficult to remove, tap it off with a plastic-faced hammer. 4 If the bearing shells are to be used again, keep the shell taped to its cap. 5 Feel the top of the cylinder bore for a wear ridge. If one is detected, it should be scraped off before the piston/rod is pushed out of the top of the cylinder block. Take care when doing this not to score the cylinder bore surfaces. 6 Push the piston/connecting rod out of the block, retaining the bearing shell with the rod if it is to be used again. 7 Repeat the operations on the remaining piston/rod assemblies.

Refitting

8 To install a piston/rod assembly, have the piston ring gaps staggered as shown (see illustration). Oil the rings and fit a piston ring compressor.

2A•6 OHV engine repair procedures

7.3 Rocker components

7.5 Rocker shaft front end plug (A), flat (B) and oil hole (C)

9.8 Piston ring end gap positioning diagram

9.2 Connecting rod big-end numbers8.5 Prising out the crankshaft front oil seal

7.4 Flat on rocker shaft (arrowed) and retaining pin

Page 25

9 Oil the cylinder bores. 10 Wipe out the bearing shell seat in the

connecting rod and insert the shell. 11 Lower the piston/rod assembly into the cylinder bore until the base of the piston ring compressor stands squarely on the top of the block (see illustration). 12 Check that the directional arrow on the piston crown faces towards the timing cover end of the engine and then apply the wooden handle of a hammer to the piston crown. Strike the head of the hammer sharply to drive the piston into the cylinder bore. 13 Oil the crankpin and draw the connecting rod down to engage with the crankshaft. Check that the bearing shell is still in position in the connecting rod. 14 Wipe the bearing shell seat in the big-end cap clean and insert the bearing shell. 15 Fit the cap, screw in the bolts and tighten to the specified torque. 16 Repeat the operations on the remaining pistons/connecting rods. 17 Refit the sump and the cylinder head. Refill with oil and coolant.

10 Oil filter and pump - removal

and refitting

Removal

1 The oil pump is externally mounted on the rearward facing side of the crankcase (see

illustration).

2 Using a suitable removal tool (strap wrench

or similar), unscrew and remove the oil filter cartridge and discard it. 3 Unscrew the three mounting bolts and withdraw the oil pump from the engine (see

illustration). 4 Clean away the old gasket.

Refitting

5 If a new pump is being fitted, it should be primed with engine oil before installation. Do this by turning its shaft while filling it with clean engine oil. 6 Locate a new gasket on the pump mounting flange, insert the pump shaft and bolt the pump into position. 7 Oil the rubber sealing ring of a new filter and screw it into position on the pump, using hand pressure only, not the removal tool. 8 Top-up the engine oil to replenish any lost during the operations.

11 Engine/transmission

mountings - removal and

refitting

1 The engine mountings can be removed if the weight of the engine/transmission is first taken by one of the three following methods:

a) Support the engine under the sump

using a jack and a block of wood. b) Attach a hoist to the engine lifting lugs. c) Make up a bar with end pieces which will

engage in the water channels at the sides of

the bonnet lid aperture. Using an adjustable

hook and chain connected to the engine

lifting lugs, the weight of the engine can be

taken off the mountings (see illustration).

Right-hand engine mounting

2 Unscrew and remove the mounting side bolt from under the right-hand wheel arch, just to the rear of and above the brake hose bracket (see illustration). 3 Unscrew and remove the mounting retaining nut and washer from the suspension strut cup retaining plate. 4 Undo the three bolts securing the mounting unit to the cylinder block (working from underneath). The mounting unit and bracket can then be lowered from the engine. 5 Unbolt and remove the mounting from its support bracket.

Engine bearer and mountings

6 Unscrew and remove the two nuts securing each mounting (front and rear) to the engine bearer. 7 Support the engine bearer, then undo and remove the four retaining bolts from the floorpan, two at the front and two at the rear

(see illustration). 8 Unscrew the retaining nut to disconnect the

rubber mounting from the transmission support.

All mountings

9 Refitting of all mountings is a reversal of removal. Make sure that the original sequence of assembly of washers and plates is maintained. 10 Do not fully tighten all mounting bolts until they are all located. As the mounting bolts and nuts are tightened, check that the mounting rubbers do not twist.

OHV engine repair procedures 2A•7

10.3 Removing the oil pump

11.7 Engine bearer (rear end) showing

mounting retaining nut (A) and retaining

bolts to floor (B)

11.2 Right-hand engine mounting side retaining bolt

11.1 Typical engine support bar

10.1 Oil filter and pump unit

9.11 Installing a piston/connecting rod

Page 26

12 Engine/transmission -

removal and separation

Caution: After removing the engine, keep it upright until the sump has been removed to prevent sludge from entering the engine internals.

Removal

1 This procedure entails lowering the engine and gearbox, and removing the unit from beneath the car. For this reason, certain items of equipment are necessary. A suitable engine hoist should be employed to lower the engine. A more difficult alternative would be to use a good trolley jack. Secondly, if an inspection pit is not available, four strong axle jacks capable of supporting the weight of the car, must be used. In addition, a willing friend will make the procedure easier. 2 Select 4th gear, or reverse gear on 5-speed models, to make gearshift adjustment easier on reassembly.

3 Open and remove the bonnet. 4 Disconnect the battery leads. 5 Drain the engine coolant. 6 Remove the radiator and thermo-electric

fan unit. 7 To drain any remaining coolant within the engine, undo and remove the cylinder block drain plug from the left-hand side at the front (exhaust manifold face) and drain the remaining coolant into a suitable container. 8 Disconnect the crankcase ventilation hoses and remove the air cleaner unit.

9 Unclip and disconnect the heater hoses from the inlet manifold connection and the lateral coolant pipe. 10 Refer to Section 4 and proceed as described in paragraphs 7 to 15 inclusive. 11 Disconnect the wiring connections from the alternator, the carburettor, the inlet manifold, the oil pressure switch, the reversing light switch and the engine oil dipstick (if applicable). Undo the securing bolt and disconnect the engine earth strap. 12 Disconnect the speedometer drive cable at the gearbox end. 13 Disconnect the clutch cable from the release lever and gearbox support. 14 Raise and support the vehicle on safety stands at the front and rear, ensuring that, when raised, the vehicle is level and there is sufficient clearance to lower and remove the engine and transmission from underneath.

15 Disconnect the starter motor leads. 16 Disconnect the gearchange rod from the

gearbox selector shaft. Do this by releasing the clamp bolt and withdrawing the rod (see illustration). Tie the rod to the stabilizer and then unhook the tension spring. 17 Unscrew the single bolt and disconnect the stabilizer from the gearbox. Note the washer which is located between the stabilizer trunnion and the gearbox casing

(see illustration). 18 Drain the gearbox. As no drain plug is

fitted, this is carried out by unscrewing the cap nut on the selector shaft locking assembly. Take care not to lose the locking pin and spring.

19 Undo and remove the four nuts retaining the gearshift housing unit to the floor (see illustration). Rotate the shift rod and stabilizer 180° and support them by tying them up with a length of cord or wire. 20 Unscrew and remove the pivot bolt and nut from the inboard end of the left side front suspension lower arm (see illustration), then remove the bolt which secures the balljoint at the outboard end of the lower arm to the stub axle carrier. An Allen key can be used to prevent the bolt turning while the nut is unscrewed. 21 The left-hand driveshaft must now be released from the transmission. Do this by inserting a lever between the inboard constant velocity (CV) joint and the transmission (see illustration). With an assistant pulling the roadwheel outwards, strike the lever hard with the hand. Note that a quantity of oil will be released when the driveshaft is removed so have a container ready. 22 Tie the driveshaft up to the steering rack housing to prevent strain to the CV joints. 23 Restrain the differential pinion cage to prevent the cage from turning, using a plastic plug or similar. Failure to do this may make reconnection of the driveshafts difficult. 24 Remove the three retaining bolts and detach the tie-bar on the right-hand side, complete with mounting bracket, from the crossmember (see illustration). 25 Release the inboard and outboard ends of the front suspension lower arm on the righthand side of the vehicle, as described for the left-hand side.

2A•8 OHV engine repair procedures

12.16 Gearchange rod clamp bolt (arrowed)

12.19 Gearshift housing unit-to-floor nuts (arrowed)

12.24 Tie-bar mounting bolts (arrowed). Note that XR2 variant differs

12.21 Driveshaft removal from gearbox12.20 Front suspension lower arm pivot

bolt and nut locations

12.17 Gearchange stabilizer rod

connection - arrow indicates washer

location

Page 27

26 Disconnect the right-hand driveshaft, as

previously described for the left-hand one. 27 Connect a suitable hoist to the engine, preferably using a spreader bar and connecting lifting hooks to the engine: lifting lugs provided. 28 With the weight of the engine and transmission just supported, disconnect the engine and transmission mountings at the points shown (see illustrations). 29 Unbolt the engine mounting (complete with coolant hose support bracket, where applicable) from the side-member and from the wing apron panel. 30 Carefully lower the engine/transmission and withdraw it from under the car. To ease the withdrawal operation, lower the engine/transmission onto a crawler board or a sheet of substantial plywood placed on rollers or lengths of pipe.

Separation

31 Unscrew and remove the starter motor bolts and remove the starter. 32 Unbolt and remove the clutch cover plate from the lower part of the clutch bellhousing. 33 Unscrew and remove the bolts from the clutch bellhousing-to-engine mating flange. 34 Withdraw the transmission from the engine. Support its weight so that the clutch assembly is not distorted while the input shaft is still in engagement with the splined hub of the clutch driven plate.

13 Engine - dismantling

rear oil seal, when the main bearings or bigend bearings have been knocking, and especially if the vehicle has covered a high mileage, then it is recommended that a complete strip down is carried out and every engine component examined. 2 Position the engine so that it is upright on a bench or other convenient working surface. If the exterior is very dirty it should be cleaned before dismantling using paraffin and a stiff brush or a water-soluble solvent. 3 Remove the coolant pipe from the side of the engine by disconnecting the hose clips and the securing bolt (see illustration).

4 If not already done, drain the engine oil. 5 Remove the dipstick and unscrew and

discard the oil filter. 6 Disconnect the HT leads from the spark plugs, release the distributor cap and lift it away complete with leads.

7 Unscrew and remove the spark plugs. 8 Disconnect the breather hose from the inlet

manifold and remove it complete with the oil filler cap. 9 Disconnect the fuel and vacuum pipes from the carburettor and unbolt and remove the carburettor. 10 Unbolt the thermostat housing cover and remove it, together with the thermostat.

11 Remove the rocker cover. 12 Remove the rocker shaft assembly (four

bolts). 13 Withdraw the pushrods, keeping them in their originally fitted order. 14 Remove the cylinder head, complete with manifolds.

15 Remove the bolt that holds the distributor clamp plate to the cylinder block and withdraw the distributor.

16 Unbolt and remove the fuel pump (see illustration). 17 Remove the oil pump. 18 Pinch the two runs of the coolant pump

drivebelt together at the pump pulley to prevent the pulley rotating and release the pulley bolts. 19 Release the alternator mounting and adjuster link bolts, push the alternator in towards the engine and remove the drivebelt

(see illustration). 20 Unbolt the alternator bracket and remove the alternator (see illustration). 21 Unbolt and remove the coolant pump (see illustration).

OHV engine repair procedures 2A•9

12.28c Engine bearer retaining bolts front

13.16 Unbolt and remove the fuel pump13.3 Engine lateral coolant pipe

connections (arrowed)

12.28d Engine bearer retaining bolts - rear

12.28b Engine mounting nut on right-hand suspension strut retaining plate (arrowed)

12.28a Engine mounting bolt under righthand wheel arch

It is best to support an engine on a dismantling stand or strong bench at a comfortable working height

before commencing work.

Page 28

22 Unscrew the crankshaft pulley bolt. To do this, the flywheel starter ring gear will have to be jammed to prevent the crankshaft from turning (see illustration). 23 Remove the crankshaft pulley. If this does not pull off by hand, carefully use two levers

behind it placed at opposite points. 24 Place the engine on its side and remove the sump. Do not invert the engine at this stage, or sludge and swarf may enter the oilways.

25 Unbolt and remove the timing chain cover (see illustration).

26 Take off the oil slinger from the front face of the crankshaft sprocket (see illustration). 27 Slide the chain tensioner arm from its pivot pin on the front main bearing cap (see illustration). 28 Unbolt and remove the chain tensioner. 29 Bend back the lockplate tabs from the

camshaft sprocket bolts and unscrew and remove the bolts (see illustration). 30 Withdraw the sprocket complete with timing chain. 31 Unbolt and remove the camshaft thrust plate (see illustration). 32 Rotate the camshaft until each cam follower (tappet) has been pushed fully into its hole by its cam lobe. 33 Withdraw the camshaft, taking care not to damage the camshaft bearings (see illustration). 34 Withdraw each of the cam followers, keeping them in their originally fitted sequence by marking them with a piece of numbered tape or using a box with divisions (see illustration).

2A•10 OHV engine repair procedures

13.19 Alternator retaining and drivebelt adjustment bolts

13.21 Unbolt and remove the coolant pump

13.34 Lift out the cam followers (tappets), using a valve grinding tool

13.31 Unbolting the camshaft thrust plate

13.26 Removing the crankshaft oil slinger 13.27 Sliding off the chain tensioner arm 13.29 Bending back the camshaft sprocket bolt locktabs

13.33 Withdrawing the camshaft

13.25 Remove the timing chain cover13.22 Unscrew the crankshaft pulley

retaining bolt

13.20 Alternator mounting bracket

Page 29

35 From the front end of the crankshaft, draw

off the sprocket using a two-legged extractor. 36 Check that the main bearing caps are marked F (Front), C (Centre) and R (Rear). The caps are also marked with an arrow which indicates the timing cover end of the engine, a point to remember when refitting the caps. 37 Check that the big-end caps and connecting rods have adjacent matching numbers facing towards the camshaft side of the engine. Number 1 assembly is nearest the timing chain end of the engine. If any markings are missing or indistinct, make some of your own with quick-drying paint

(see illustration). 38 Unbolt and remove the big-end bearing

caps. If the bearing shell is to be used again, tape the shell to the cap. 39 Now check the top of the cylinder bore for a wear ridge. If one can be felt, it should be removed with a scraper before the piston/rod is pushed out of the cylinder. 40 Remove the piston/rod by pushing it out of the top of the block. Tape the bearing shell to the connecting rod. 41 Remove the remaining three piston/rod assemblies in a similar way. 42 Unbolt the clutch pressure plate cover from the flywheel. Unscrew the bolts evenly and progressively until spring pressure is relieved, before removing the bolts. Be prepared to catch the clutch driven plate as the cover is withdrawn. 43 Unbolt and remove the flywheel. It is heavy, do not drop it. If necessary, the starter ring gear can be jammed to prevent the flywheel rotating. There is no need to mark the fitted position of the flywheel to its mounting flange as it can only be fitted one way. Take off the adapter plate (engine backplate). 44 Unbolt and remove the crankshaft rear oil seal retainer (see illustration). 45 Unbolt the main bearing caps. Remove the caps, tapping them off if necessary with a plastic-faced hammer. Retain the bearing shells with their respective caps if the shells are to be used again, although unless the engine is of low mileage this is not recommended. 46 Lift the crankshaft from the crankcase and lift out the upper bearing shells, noting the thrustwashers either side of the centre

bearing. Keep these shells with their respective caps, identifying them for refitting to the crankcase if they are to be used again. 47 With the engine now completely dismantled, each component should be examined, as described in the following Section before reassembling.

14 Engine - examination and

renovation

1 Clean all components using paraffin and a stiff brush, except the crankshaft, which should be wiped clean and the oil passages cleaned out with a length of wire. 2 Never assume that a component is unworn simply because it looks all right. After all the effort which has gone into dismantling the engine, refitting worn components will make the overhaul a waste of time and money. Depending on the degree of wear, the overhauler’s budget and the anticipated life of the vehicle, components which are only slightly worn may be refitted, but if in doubt it is always best to renew.

Crankshaft, main and big-end bearings

3 The need to renew the main bearing shells or to have the crankshaft reground will usually have been determined during the last few miles of operation when perhaps a heavy knocking has developed from within the crankcase or the oil pressure warning lamp has stayed on, denoting a low oil pressure probably caused by excessive wear in the bearings. 4 Even without these symptoms, the journals and crankpins on a high mileage engine should be checked for out-of-round (ovality) and taper. For this a micrometer will be needed to check the diameter of the journals and crankpins at several different points around them. A motor factor or engineer can do this for you. If the readings show that either out-of-round or taper is present, then the crankshaft should be reground by your dealer or engine reconditioning company to accept the undersize main and big-end shell bearings which are available. Normally, the company doing the regrinding will supply the necessary undersize shells.

5 If the crankshaft is in good condition, it is wise to renew the bearing shells as it is almost certain that the original ones will have worn. This is often indicated by scoring of the bearing surface or by the top layer of the bearing metal having worn through to expose the metal underneath. 6 Each shell is marked on its back with the part number. Undersize shells will have the undersize stamped additionally on their backs. 7 Standard size crankshafts having main bearing journal diameters at the lower end of the tolerance range are marked with a yellow spot on the front balance weight. You will find that with this type of crankshaft, a standard shell is fitted to the seat in the crankcase but a yellow colour-coded shell to the main bearing cap. 8 If a green spot is seen on the crankshaft then this indicates that 0.254 mm undersize big-end bearings are used in place of the standard diameter.

Cylinder bores, pistons, rings and connecting rods

9 Cylinder bore wear will usually have been evident from the smoke emitted from the exhaust during recent operation of the vehicle on the road, coupled with excessive oil consumption and fouling of spark plugs. 10 Engine life can be extended by fitting special oil control rings to the pistons. These are widely advertised and will give many more thousands of useful mileage without the need for a rebore, although this will be inevitable eventually. If this remedy is decided upon, remove the piston/connecting rods and fit the proprietary rings in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. 11 Where a more permanent solution is decided upon, the cylinder block can be rebored by your dealer or engineering works, or by one of the mobile workshops which now undertake such work. The cylinder bore will be measured both for out-of-round and for taper to decide how much the bores should be bored out. A set of matching pistons will be supplied in a suitable oversize to suit the new bores. 12 Due to the need for special heating and installing equipment for removal and refitting of the interference type gudgeon pin, the removal and refitting of pistons to the connecting rods is definitely a specialist job, preferably for your Ford dealer. 13 The removal and refitting of piston rings is however well within the scope of the home mechanic. Do this by sliding two or three old feeler blades round behind the top compression ring so that they are at equidistant points. The ring can now be slid up the blades and removed. Repeat the removal operations on the second compression ring and then the oil control ring. This method will not only prevent the rings from dropping onto empty grooves as they are withdrawn, but it will also avoid ring breakage.

OHV engine repair procedures 2A•11

13.44 Crankshaft rear oil seal retainer13.37 Connecting rod and big-end cap

markings (arrowed)

Page 30

14 Even when new piston rings have been supplied to match the pistons, always check that they are not tight in their grooves and also check their end gaps by pushing them squarely down their particular cylinder bore and measuring with a feeler blade (see illustration). Adjustment of the end gap can be made by careful grinding to bring it within the specified tolerance. 15 If new rings are being fitted to an old piston, always remove any carbon from the grooves beforehand. The best tool for this job is the end of a broken piston ring. Take care not to cut your fingers, piston rings are sharp. The cylinder bores should be roughened with fine glass paper to assist the bedding-in of the new rings.

Timing sprockets and chain

16 The teeth on the timing sprockets rarely wear, but check for broken or hooked teeth even so. 17 The timing chain should always be renewed at time of major engine overhaul. A worn chain is evident if, when supported horizontally at both ends, it takes on a deeply bowed appearance. 18 Finally check the rubber cushion on the tensioner spring leaf. If grooved or chewed up, renew it.

Flywheel

19 Inspect the starter ring gear on the flywheel for wear or broken teeth. If evident, the ring gear should be renewed in the following way. Drill the ring gear with two holes, approximately 7 or 8 mm diameter and offset as shown (see illustration). Make sure that you do not drill too deeply or you will damage the flywheel. 20 Tap the ring gear downward off its register and remove it (see illustration). 21 Place the flywheel in the household refrigerator for about an hour and then heat the new ring gear to between 260 and 28°C in

a domestic oven. Do not heat it above 290°C or its hardness will be lost. 22 Slip the ring onto the flywheel and gently tap it into position against its register. Allow it to cool without quenching. 23 The clutch friction surface on the flywheel should be checked for grooving or tiny hair cracks, the latter being caused by overheating. If these conditions are evident, it may be possible to surface grind the flywheel provided its balance is not upset. Otherwise, a new flywheel will have to be fitted - consult your dealer about this.

Oil pump

24 The oil pump should be checked for wear by unbolting and removing the cover plate and checking the following tolerances (see illustrations).

a) Outer rotor-to-pump body gap b) Inner rotor-to-outer rotor gap c) Rotor endfloat (use a feeler blade and

straight-edge across pump body)

Use feeler blades to check the tolerances and if they are outside the specified values, renew the pump. 25 If the pump is serviceable, renew the Oring and refit the cover (see illustration).

2A•12 OHV engine repair procedures

14.14 Checking a piston ring end gap 14.20 Removing the ring gear from the flywheel

14.24b Check the oil pump rotor-to-body clearance at (a) and the inner-to-outer rotor clearance at (b)

14.24a Oil pump components

A Cover B O-ring C Pump body D Threaded insert

E Filter (relief valve) F Plug G Relief valve

H Outer rotor J Inner rotor K Drive pinion

14.19 Drilling the flywheel starter ring gear

14.25 Oil pump O-ring seal must be renewed (arrowed)

Page 31

Oil seals and gasket

26 Renew the oil seals on the timing cover and the crankshaft rear retainer as a matter of routine at time of major overhaul. Oil seals are cheap, oil is not! Use a piece of tubing as a removal and installing tool. Apply some grease to the oil seal lips and check that the small tensioner spring in the oil seal has not been displaced by the vibration caused during fitting of the seal. 27 Renew all the gaskets by purchasing the appropriate “de-coke”, short or full engine set. Oil seals may be included in the gasket sets.

Crankcase

28 Clean out the oilways with a length of wire or by using compressed air. Similarly clean the coolant passages. This is best done by flushing through with a cold water hose. Examine the crankcase and block for stripped threads in bolt holes; if evident, thread inserts can be fitted. 29 Renew any core plugs which appear to be leaking or which are excessively rusty. 30 Cracks in the casting may be rectified by specialist welding, or by one of the cold metal key interlocking processes available.

Camshaft and bearings

31 Examine the camshaft gear and lobes for damage or wear. If evident a new camshaft must be purchased, or one which has been built-up such as are advertised by firms specialising in exchange components. 32 The bearing internal diameters should be checked against the Specifications if a suitable gauge is available: otherwise, check for movement between the camshaft journal and the bearing. Worn bearings should be renewed by your dealer. 33 Check the camshaft endfloat by temporarily refitting the camshaft and the thrust plate.

Cam followers

34 It is seldom that the cam followers wear in their bores, but it is likely that after a high mileage, the cam lobe contact surface will show signs of a depression or grooving. 35 Where this condition is evident, renew the cam followers. Grinding out the wear marks will only reduce the thickness of the hardened metal of the cam follower and accelerate further wear.

Cylinder head and rocker gear

36 The usual reason for dismantling the cylinder head is to decarbonise and to grind in the valves. Reference should therefore be made to the next Section, in addition to the dismantling operations described here. First remove the manifolds. 37 Using a standard valve spring compressor, compress the spring on No 1 valve (valve nearest the timing cover). Do not overcompress the spring or the valve stem may bend. If it is found that, when screwing

down the compressor tool, the spring retainer does not release from the collets, remove the compressor and place a piece of tubing on the retainer so that it does not impinge on the collets and strike the end of the tubing a sharp blow with a hammer. Refit the compressor and compress the spring. 38 Extract the split collets and then gently release the compressor and remove it. 39 Remove the valve spring retainer, the spring and the oil seal.

40 Withdraw the valve. 41 Repeat the removal operations on the

remaining seven valves. Keep the valves in their originally fitted sequence by placing them in 3 piece of card which has holes punched in it and numbered 1 to 8 (from the timing cover end). 42 Place each valve in turn in its guide so that approximately one third of its length enters the guide. Rock the valve from side to side (see illustration). If there is any more than an imperceptible movement, the guides will have to be reamed (working from the valve seat end) and oversize stemmed valves fitted. If you do not have the necessary reamer (tool 71-042 or 21-043), leave this work to your Ford dealer. 43 Examine the valve seats. Normally, the seats do not deteriorate but the valve heads are more likely to burn away, in which case new valves can be ground in. If the seats require re-cutting, use a standard cutter available from most accessory or tool stores or consult your motor engineering works. 44 Renewal of any valve seat which is cracked or beyond recutting is definitely a job for your dealer or motor engineering works. 45 If the cylinder head mating surface is suspected of being distorted due to persistent leakage of coolant at the gasket joint, then it can be checked and surface ground by your dealer or motor engineering works. Distortion is unlikely under normal circumstances with a cast iron head. 46 Check the rocker shaft and rocker arms pads which bear on the valve stem end faces for wear or scoring, also for any broken coil springs. Renew components as necessary. If the valve springs have been in use for 50 000 miles (80 000 km) or more, they should be renewed.

47 Reassemble the cylinder head by first fitting new valve stem oil seals (see illustration). Install No 1 valve (lubricated) into its guide and fit the valve spring with the closer coils to the cylinder head, followed by the spring retainer. Compress the spring and engage the split collets in the cutout in the valve stem. Hold them in position while the compressor is gently released and removed. 48 Repeat the operations on the remaining valves, making sure that each valve is returned to its original guide or if new valves have been fitted, into the seat into which it was ground. 49 On completion, support the ends of the cylinder head on two wooden blocks and strike the end of each valve stem with a plastic or copper-faced hammer; just a light blow to settle the components.

15 Cylinder head and pistons -

decarbonising

1 With the cylinder head removed, the carbon deposits should be removed from the combustion spaces using a scraper and a wire brush fitted into an electric drill. Take care not to damage the valve heads, otherwise no special precautions need be taken as the cylinder head is of cast iron construction. 2 Where a more thorough job is to be carried out, the cylinder head should be dismantled so that the valves may be ground in and the ports and combustion spaces cleaned, brushed and blown out after the manifolds have been removed. 3 Before grinding-in a valve remove the carbon and deposits completely from its head and stem. With an inlet valve, this is usually quite easy, simply scraping off the soft carbon with a blunt knife and finishing with a wire brush. With an exhaust valve the deposits are very much harder and those on the head may need a rub on coarse emery cloth to remove them. An old woodworking chisel is a useful tool to remove the worst of the head deposits. 4 Make sure that the valve heads are really clean, otherwise the rubber suction cup of the grinding tool will not stick during the grindingin operations.

OHV engine repair procedures 2A•13

14.47 Valve stem oil seals

A Exhaust valve type B Inlet valve type

14.42 Checking valve in guide for wear

Page 32

5 Before starting to grind in a valve, support the cylinder head so that there is sufficient clearance under for the valve stem to project fully without being obstructed. 6 Take the first valve and apply a little coarse grinding paste to the bevelled edge of the valve head. Insert the valve into its guide and apply the suction grinding tool to its head (see illustration). Rotate the tool between the palms of the hands in a back-and-forth rotary movement until the gritty action of the grinding-in process disappears. Repeat the operation with the fine paste and then wipe away all traces of grinding paste and examine the seat and bevelled edge of the valve. A matt silver mating band should be observed on both components, without any sign of black spots. If some spots do remain, repeat the grinding-in process until they have disappeared. A drop or two of paraffin applied to the contact surfaces will increase the speed of grinding-in, but do not allow any paste to run down into the valve guide. On completion, wipe away every trace of grinding paste using a paraffin-moistened cloth. 7 Repeat the operations on the remaining valves, taking care not to mix up their originally fitted sequence.

8 Reassemble the valves to the cylinder head. 9 An important part of the decarbonising

operation is to remove the carbon deposits from the piston crowns. To do this, turn the crankshaft so that two pistons are at the top of their stroke and press some grease between these pistons and the cylinder walls. This will prevent carbon particles falling down into the piston ring grooves. Stuff rags into the other two bores.

10 Cover the oilways and coolant passages with masking tape and then using a blunt scraper remove all the carbon from the piston crowns. Take care not to score the soft alloy of the crown or the surface of the cylinder bore. 11 Rotate the crankshaft to bring the other two pistons to TDC and repeat the operations. 12 Wipe away the circle of grease and carbon from the cylinder bores. 13 Clean the top surface of the cylinder block by careful scraping.

16 Engine - reassembly

1 With everything clean, commence reassembly by oiling the bores for the cam followers and inserting them fully in their original sequence. 2 Lubricate the camshaft bearings and insert the camshaft from the timing cover end of the engine. 3 Fit the thrust plate and tighten the fixing bolts to the specified torque. The endfloat will already have been checked, as described in Section 14. 4 Wipe clean the main bearing shell seats in the crankcase and fit the shells, noting that the lower shells do not have the lubrication groove. Using a little grease, stick the semicircular thrustwashers on either side of the centre bearing so that the oil grooves are visible when the washers are installed (see

illustrations).

5 Check that the Woodruff key is in position

on the front end of the crankshaft and tap the crankshaft sprocket into place using a piece of tubing. 6 Oil the bearing shells and lower the crankshaft into the crankcase. 7 Wipe the seats in the main bearing caps and fit the bearing shells into them. Install the caps so that their markings are correctly positioned (see illustration). 8 Screw in the cap bolts and tighten evenly to the specified torque. 9 Now check the crankshaft endfloat. Ideally a dial gauge should be used, but feeler blades are an alternative if inserted between the face of the thrustwasher and the machined surface of the crankshaft balance weight after having prised the crankshaft first in one direction and then the other (see illustration). Provided the thrustwashers at the centre bearing have been renewed, the endfloat should be with the specified tolerance. If it is not, oversize thrustwashers are available (see Specifications). 10 Rotate the crankshaft so that the timing mark on its sprocket is directly in line with the centre of the crankshaft sprocket mounting flange. 11 Engage the camshaft sprocket within the timing chain and then engage the chain around the teeth of the crankshaft sprocket. Push the camshaft sprocket onto its mounting flange. The camshaft sprocket bolt holes should now be in alignment with the tapped holes in the camshaft flange and both sprocket timing marks in alignment (see illustration). Turn the camshaft as necessary

2A•14 OHV engine repair procedures

15.6 Grinding-in a valve 16.4b Fit the upper main bearing shell (with lubrication groove) and the

thrustwashers (centre bearing)

16.11 Crankshaft and camshaft sprocket timing marks (arrowed)

16.9 Checking the crankshaft endfloat using the dial gauge method

16.7 Main bearing cap markings

16.4a Crankshaft endfloat half thrustwashers

Page 33

to achieve this, also withdraw the camshaft sprocket and reposition it within the loop of the chain. This is a “trial and error” operation which must be continued until exact alignment of bolt holes and timing marks is achieved. 12 Screw in the sprocket bolts to the specified torque and bend up the tabs of a new lockplate (see illustration). 13 Bolt the timing chain tensioner into position, retract the tensioner cam spring and then slide the tensioner arm onto its pivot pin. Release the cam tensioner so that it bears upon the arm. 14 Fit the oil slinger to the front of the crankshaft sprocket so that its convex side is against the sprocket. 15 Using a new gasket, fit the timing cover which will already have been fitted with a new oil seal. One fixing bolt should be left out at this stage as it also holds the coolant pump (see illustration). Grease the oil seal lips and fit the crankshaft pulley. Tighten the pulley bolt to the specified torque. 16 Using a new gasket, bolt the crankshaft rear oil seal retainer into position. Tighten the bolts to the specified torque (see illustration). 17 Locate the engine adapter (back) plate on its dowels and then fit the flywheel (see

illustration). 18 Screw in and tighten the flywheel bolts to

the specified torque. To prevent the flywheel turning, the starter ring gear can be jammed or a piece of wood placed between a crankshaft balance weight and the inside of the crankcase.

19 Install and centralise the clutch. 20 The pistons/connecting rods should now

be installed. Check to ensure that with the piston crown arrow pointing to the timing cover end of the engine, the oil hole in the connecting rod is on the left as shown (see

illustration). Oil the cylinder bores. 21 Install the pistons/connecting rods. 22 Fit the sump. 23 Fit the oil pressure sender unit, if

removed. 24 Turn the crankshaft until No 1 piston is at TDC (crankshaft pulley and timing cover marks aligned) and fit the oil pump complete with new gasket and a new oil filter. 25 Using a new gasket, fit the fuel pump. If the insulating block became detached from

the crankcase during removal, make sure that a new gasket is fitted to each side of the block.

26 Fit the coolant pump using a new gasket. 27 Fit the cylinder head. 28 Refit the pushrods in their original

sequence, and the rocker shaft. 29 Adjust the valve clearances and refit the rocker cover using a new gasket. 30 Fit the inlet and exhaust manifolds using new gaskets and tightening the nuts and bolts to the specified torque. 31 Refit the carburettor using a new flange gasket and connect the fuel pipe from the pump. 32 Screw in the spark plugs and the coolant temperature switch (if removed). 33 Refit the thermostat and the thermostat housing cover. 34 Fit the pulley to the coolant pump pulley flange. 35 Fit the alternator and the drivebelt and tension the belt.

36 Refit the distributor. 37 Refit the distributor cap and reconnect the

spark plug HT leads. 38 Bolt on and connect the coolant pipe to the side of the cylinder block. 39 Fit the breather pipe from the oil filler cap to the inlet manifold and fit the cap. 40 Check the sump drain plug for tightness. A new seal should be fitted at regular intervals to prevent leakage. Refit the dipstick. 41 Refilling with oil should be left until the engine is installed in the vehicle.

17 Engine/transmission -

reconnection and refitting

1 This is a direct reversal of the removal and separation from the transmission. Take care not to damage the engine ancillary components and body panels when raising the unit into position.

Reconnection

2 Reconnection of the engine and transmission is a reversal of separation but if the clutch has been dismantled, check that the driven plate has been centralised, and that the pressure plate bolts are tightened to the specified torque (see Chapter 6). 3 Locate the engine bearer and mountings and tighten the attachment bolts and nuts.

Refitting

4 First check that the engine sump drain plug is tight and that the gearbox cap nut (removed to drain the oil) is refitted, together with its locking pin and spring.

OHV engine repair procedures 2A•15

16.16 Refit the crankshaft rear oil seal retainer - note new gasket

16.20 Piston-to-connecting rod

relationship. Lubrication hole and piston

crown mark (arrowed) must align as

shown

16.17 Locate the engine backplate over the two dowels (arrowed)

16.15 Bolt (arrowed) which secures timing cover and coolant pump

16.12 Secure the camshaft sprocket retaining bolts with the tab washer

Warning: Before starting a newly installed engine, make a final check to ensure that all

engine components have been reconnected and that no rags or tools have been left in the engine bay.

Page 34

5 Manoeuvre the engine/transmission under the vehicle and attach the lifting hoist. Raise the engine carefully until the engine mounting stud is engaged in the suspension strut retaining plate and the engine bearer is in contact with the floorpan. Align the engine bearer with the retaining bolt holes then fit and tighten the bolts. When tightening the bolts check that the mounting rubbers are not being twisted (see illustration). 6 Refit the transmission bearer to the rubber insulator, fit the right-hand mounting retaining nut and washer, the side-mounted bolt and washer (under the wheel arch) and tighten. 7 With the engine and transmission fully secured, release the lifting hoist and remove it. 8 If some sort of plug was used to prevent the differential pinion cage from turning, remove the plug now. If a plug was not used, insert a finger in the driveshaft hole and align the cage ready to receive the driveshaft. If this is not done, the driveshaft cannot engage with the splined pinion gear. Use a new snap-ring and reconnect the right-hand driveshaft to the transmission by having an assistant apply pressure on the roadwheel. Check that the snap-ring has locked in position. 9 Relocate the right-hand tie-bar and bracket to the crossmember and refit the retaining bolts. 10 Reconnect the right-hand lower suspension arm. Tighten the bolts. 11 Refit the driveshaft and suspension lower arm to the opposite side in a similar way to that just described. 12 Rotate the gearchange housing back through 180° then loosely attach it to the floor panels with the retaining bolts. 13 Reconnect the transmission stabilizer rod, making sure to insert the washer between the rod and the transmission case (see

illustration). 14 Check that the gearchange rod is still in

4th (4-speed gearbox) or reverse (5-speed gearbox). 15 Tighten the gearbox housing-to-floor attachment bolts. 16 Check that the contact faces of the gearchange rod and selector shaft are free of grease then reconnect them and adjust as follows, according to gearbox type:

Four-speed gearbox - pre 1987 models

a) Pull downwards on the gearchange rod

and slip it onto the selector shaft which projects from the transmission. The clamp should be loose on the gearchange rod (see illustration).

b) Using a 3.5 mm diameter rod or pin,

insert it as shown and pull the gear lever downwards to lock it in the selector slide. When inserting the rod, point up upward to feel the cut-out in the gear lever before prising it downwards (see illustration). Now turn your attention to the gearbox.

c) Using a pin or rod, inserted into the hole

in the end of the projecting selector shaft, turn the shaft clockwise to its stop and retain it in this position with a strong rubber band. Now tighten the clamp pinch-bolt (see illustration).

d) Remove the locking pins.

Four-speed gearbox - post February 1987 models

a) Set the gearchange lever inside the car to

2nd gear.

b) Free the control rod (which runs from the

floor lever) from the selector rod at the transmission, by unscrewing the clamp bolt.

c) Make up a stepped rod similar to the one

shown (see illustration). This can be achieved by pushing a piece of welding rod through a length of plastic tubing.

d) Insert the tool into the left-hand side of

the mechanism housing under the car, and feel the point of the tool engage in the hole in the lever arm. Fit the O-ring or heavy rubber band as shown (see illustration).

2A•16 OHV engine repair procedures

17.5 Engine bearer and mountings 17.16a Sliding the clamp onto the gearbox selector shaft

17.16c Tightening the gearchange rod clamp bolt

17.16b Gear lever locked in selector housing by pin (arrowed)

17.13 Connect the gearbox stabilizer rod

17.16d Gearshift setting tool

A Tubing B Welding rod C O-ring or rubber band All dimensions in mm

Page 35

e) With 2nd gear correctly engaged,

reconnect the control rod to the selector rod by tightening the clamp bolt. Remove the stepped tool.

f) Select each gear in turn to confirm that

the linkage has been correctly set.

Five-speed gearbox - pre 1987 models

a) Use a lock tool similar to that shown, pull

the gear lever down in its selector gate reverse gear position and set the tool to hold it against the stop (see illustration).

b) Insert a suitable rod or drift into the hole

in the selector shaft, rotate the shaft clockwise until it is felt to be against the stop then push it into the gearbox and retain it in this position while tightening the gearchange rod clamp bolt. Remove the drift and lock tool (see illustration).

Five-speed gearbox - post February 1987 models

a) Set the gearchange lever inside the car to

4th gear.

b) Release the control rod (which runs from

the floor lever) from the selector rod at the transmission by unscrewing the clamp bolt.

c) Insert a rod (3.5 mm diameter) into the

left-hand side of the mechanism housing under the car (see illustration).

d) With the 4th gear correctly engaged,

reconnect the control rod to the selector rod by tightening the clamp bolt. Remove the temporary rod.

e) Select each gear in turn to confirm that

the linkage has been correctly set.

17 Refit the clutch housing cover plate and secure with retaining bolts. 18 Refit the starter motor and reconnect its wiring. 19 Reconnect the engine earth strap underneath also the reversing light lead. 20 Refit the exhaust system and bolt the downpipe to the manifold. Refit the heated air box which connects with the air cleaner.

21 Reconnect the clutch operating cable.

22 Reconnect the electrical leads, the fuel

pipe, the brake vacuum hose and the speedometer cable. 23 Reconnect the throttle cable and the heater hoses.

24 Reconnect the radiator coolant hoses. 25 Fill up with engine oil, gearbox oil and

coolant, then reconnect the battery. 26 Refit the bonnet, bolting the hinges to their originally marked positions. 27 Fit the air cleaner and reconnect the hoses and the air cleaner inlet spout. 28 Once the engine is running, check the dwell angle, timing, idle speed and mixture adjustment. 29 If a number of new internal components have been installed, run the vehicle at restricted speed for the first few hundred miles to allow time for the new components to bed in. It is also recommended that with a new or rebuilt engine, the engine oil and filter are changed at the end of the running-in period.

OHV engine repair procedures 2A•17

17.16g Retain selector shaft when tightening clamp bolt

17.16h Setting tool in place - 5-speed gearbox

17.16f Hold gear lever in position with lock tool

17.16e Setting tool in place - 4-speed gearbox

Page 36

2A•18 Notes

Page 37

1.3 and 1.6 litre engines

General

Engine type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Four-cylinder, overhead cam, water-cooled. Compound Valve

Hemispherical head (CVH)

1.3 litre 1.6 litre

Code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . JPC LUB

Firing order (No 1 at timing cover end) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-3-4-2 1-3-4-2

Bore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.96 mm 79.96 mm

Stroke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64.52 mm 79.52 mm

Cubic capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1296 cc 1597 cc

Compression ratio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.5 : 1 9.5 : 1

Compression pressure at starter speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11.2 to 14.8 kgf/cm

11.2 to 14.8 kgf/cm

Maximum continuous engine speed (rpm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6450 6300

Cylinder block

Number of main bearings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Cylinder bore diameter:

Standard (1) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.94 to 79.95 mm

Standard (2) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.95 to 79.96 mm

Standard (3) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.96 to 79.97 mm

Standard (4) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.97 to 79.98 mm

Oversize (A) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.23 to 80.24 mm

Oversize (B) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.24 to 80.25 mm

Oversize (C) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.25 to 80.26 mm

Main bearing shell inner diameter:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58.011 to 58.038 mm

Undersize 0.25 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57.761 to 57.788 mm

Undersize 0.50 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57.511 to 57.538 mm

Undersize 0.75 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57.261 to 57.288 mm

Crankshaft

Main bearing journal diameter:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57.98 to 58.00 mm

Undersize 0.25 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57.73 to 57.75 mm

Undersize 0.50 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57.48 to 57.50 mm

Undersize 0.75 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57.23 to 57.25 mm

Chapter 2 Part B:

CVH engine repair procedures

Camshaft - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

Camshaft oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

Crankshaft front oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Cylinder head - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

Cylinder head and pistons - decarbonising . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16

Engine - dismantling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

Engine - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15

Engine - reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17

Engine/transmission mountings - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . .11

Engine/transmission - reconnection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18

Engine/transmission - removal and separation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1

Oil filter - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

Operations only possible with engine removed from vehicle . . . . . . . .3

Operations possible without removing engine from vehicle . . . . . . . . .2

Pistons/connecting rods - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10

Sump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9

Timing belt - inspection, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

2B•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable for

novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Page 38

Crankshaft (continued)

Main bearing running clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.011 to 0.058 mm

Thrustwasher thickness:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.301 to 2.351 mm

Oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.491 to 2.541 mm

Crankshaft endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.09 to 0.30 mm

Crankpin (big-end) diameter:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.89 to 47.91 mm

Undersize 0.25 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.64 to 47.66 mm

Undersize 0.50 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.39 to 47.41 mm

Undersize 0.75 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.14 to 47.16 mm

Undersize 1.00 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46.89 to 46.91 mm

Big-end bearing running clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.006 to 0.060 mm

Camshaft

Number of bearings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Belt tension:

Setting up (torque wrench on camshaft sprocket):

1.3 litre (colour code blue) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.0 to 6.5 kgf m

1.6 litre (colour code yellow) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.5 to 5.0 kgf m

Final setting (using Ford tool 21-113):

Used belt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 to 5 on scale

New belt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 to 11 on scale

Note:

A used belt is one which has been in use for more than 30 minutes.

Camshaft thrust plate thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.99 to 5.01 mm

Cam lift:

1.3 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.79 mm

1.6 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.09 mm

Cam length (heel to toe):

Inlet:

1.3 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38.305 mm

1.6 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38.606 mm

Exhaust:

1.3 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37.289 mm

1.6 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37.590 mm

Camshaft bearing diameter:

1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44.75 mm

2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45.00 mm

3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45.25 mm

4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45.40 mm

5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45.75 mm

Camshaft endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.05 to 0.15 mm

Pistons and piston rings

Diameter:

Standard 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.910 to 79.920 mm

Standard 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.920 to 79.930 mm

Standard 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.930 to 79.940 mm

Standard 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.940 to 79.950 mm

Standard service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.930 to 79.955 mm

Oversize 0.29 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.210 to 80.235 mm

Oversize 0.50 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.430 to 80.455 mm

Piston-to-bore clearance:

Production . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.020 to 0.040 mm

Service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.010 to 0.045 mm

Ring gap positions (when fitted) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120° apart

Piston ring gap:

Compression . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.30 to 0.50 mm

Oil control . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.4 to 1.4 mm

Gudgeon pin

Pin diameter:

White . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.622 to 20.625 mm

Red . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.625 to 20.628 mm

Blue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.628 to 20.631 mm

Yellow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.631 to 20.634 mm

Play in piston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.005 to 0.011 mm

Interference fit in connecting rod . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.013 to 0.045 mm

2B•2 CVH engine repair procedures

Page 39

Connecting rod

Big-end bore diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50.890 to 50.910 mm

Small-end bore diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.589 to 20.609 mm

Big-end bearing shell inside diameter:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.916 to 47.950 mm

Undersize 0.25 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.666 to 47.700 mm

Undersize 0.50 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.416 to 47.450 mm

Undersize 0.75 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.166 to 47.200 mm

Undersize 1.00 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46.916 to 46.950 mm

Big-end bearing running clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.006 to 0.060 mm

Cylinder head

Valve seat angle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45°

Valve seat width . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.75 to 2.32 mm

Maximum cylinder head distortion permissible:

Over distance of 26 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.04 mm

Over distance of 156 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.08 mm

Over full length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.15 mm

Facing head mating surface . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.30 mm

Minimum combustion chamber depth (after refacing) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19.60 mm

Valves - general 1.3 litre 1.6 litre

Inlet valve opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13° BTDC 8° BTDC

Inlet valve closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28° ABDC 36° ABDC

Exhaust valve opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30° BBDC 34° BBDC

Exhaust valve closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15° ATDC 6° ATDC

Valve lift:

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.56 mm 10.09 mm

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.52 mm 10.06 mm

Valve spring free length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.2 mm 47.2 mm

Inlet valve

Length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134.54 to 135.00 mm

Head diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41.9 to 42.1 mm

Stem diameter:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.025 to 8.043 mm

Oversize 0.2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.225 to 8.243 mm

Oversize 0.4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.425 to 8.443 mm

Valve stem-to-guide clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.020 to 0.063 mm

Exhaust valve

Length:

1.3 engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131.17 to 131.63 mm

1.6 engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131.57 to 132.03 mm

Head diameter:

1.3 engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33.9 to 34.1 mm

1.6 engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36.9 to 37.1 mm

Valve stem diameter:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.999 to 8.017 mm

Oversize 0.2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.199 to 8.217 mm

Oversize 0.4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.399 to 8.417 mm

Valve stem-to-guide clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.046 to 0.089 mm

Lubrication system

Minimum oil pressure at 80°C (175°F):

At 750 rpm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 kgf/cm

At 2000 rpm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.8 kgf/cm

Oil pump type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Gear, driven by crankshaft

Oil pump clearances:

Gear type pump:

Outer rotor-to-housing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.069 to 0.140 mm

Inner rotor-to-housing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.070 to 0.165 mm

Rotor-to-cover endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.028 to 0.078 mm

Rotor type pump:

Outer rotor-to-housing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.060 to 0.190 mm

Inner-to-outer rotor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.050 to 0.180 mm

Rotor-to-cover endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.014 to 0.100 mm

CVH engine repair procedures 2B•3

Page 40

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Main bearing cap bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 70

Big-end bearing cap bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22

Oil pump mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Oil pump pick-up tube bolt to block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

Oil pump pick-up to pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 9

Oil pump cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 to 12 6 to 9

Sump (with one-piece gasket) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 to 8 4 to 6

Rear oil seal carrier bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Sump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Flywheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 63

Crankshaft pulley bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 81

Cylinder head bolts:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 40

Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tighten further 90° Tighten further 90°

Stage 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tighten further 90° Tighten further 90°

Camshaft thrust plate bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 9

Camshaft sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 41

Belt tensioner bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 13

Coolant pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6

Rocker arm studs in head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 15

Rocker arm nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 20

Rocker cover screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6

Timing cover screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6

Exhaust manifold bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 12

Inlet manifold bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 13

Carburettor mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

Thermostat housing bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6

Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 20

Engine-to-transmission bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 30

Transmission oil filler plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Fuel pump nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 to 18 10 to 13

Oil pressure switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 to 22 13 to 16

1.4 litre engine

The Specifications are the same as for the 1.3 litre CVH engine, except for the following:

General

Code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . FUA/FUB

Bore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.24 mm

Stroke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74.30 mm

Cubic capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1392 cc

Maximum continuous engine speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6200 rpm

Cylinder block

Cylinder bore diameter:

Standard (1) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.220 to 77.230 mm

Standard (2) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.230 to 77.240 mm

Standard (3) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.240 to 77.250 mm

Standard (4) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.250 to 77.260 mm

Oversize (A) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.510 to 77.520 mm

Oversize (B) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.520 to 77.530 mm

Oversize (C) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.530 to 77.540 mm

Oversize 0.29 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.525 to 77.535 mm

Oversize 0.50 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.745 to 77.755 mm

Pistons and piston rings

Diameter:

Standard (1) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.190 to 77.200 mm

Standard (2) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.200 to 77.210 mm

Standard (3) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.210 to 77.220 mm

Standard (4) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.220 to 77.230 mm

Standard service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.210 to 77.235 mm

Oversize (A) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.480 to 77.490 mm

Oversize (B) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.490 to 77.500 mm

Oversize (C) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.500 to 77.510 mm

Oversize 0.29 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.490 to 77.515 mm

Oversize 0.50 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.710 to 77.735 mm

2B•4 CVH engine repair procedures

Page 41

Cylinder head

Minimum combustion chamber depth (after refacing) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17.40 mm

Valve timing

Inlet valve opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15° ATDC

Inlet valve closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30° ABDC

Exhaust valve opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28° BBDC

Exhaust valve closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13° BTDC

Inlet valves

Length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136.29 to 136.75 mm

Head diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39.90 to 40.10 mm

Stem diameter:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.025 to 8.043 mm

Oversize 0.2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.225 to 8.243 mm

Oversize 0.4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.425 to 8.443 mm

Exhaust valves

Length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132.97 to 133.43 mm

Head diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33.90 to 34.10 mm

Stem diameter:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.999 to 8.017 mm

Oversize 0.2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.199 to 8.217 mm

Oversize 0.4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.399 to 8.417 mm

Lubrication system

Oil pump type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Rotor, driven by crankshaft

Oil pump clearances:

Outer rotor-to-housing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.060 to 0.190 mm

Inner-to-outer rotor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.050 to 0.180 mm

Rotor-to-cover endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.014 to 0.100 mm

1 General information

This engine, designated CVH (Compound Valve angle, Hemispherical combustion chamber) can be described in more conventional terms as a four-cylinder overhead camshaft (OHC) engine. It is mounted, together with the transmission, transversely at the front of the vehicle and transmits power through open driveshafts to the front roadwheels.

The engine is available in three capacities;

1.3, 1.4 and 1.6 litre. The 1.4 litre engine being introduced to replace the 1.3 litre unit during early 1986.

The crankshaft is supported in five main bearings within a cast iron crankcase. The cylinder head is of light alloy construction, supporting the overhead camshaft in five bearings. These bearings cannot be renewed and, in the event of wear occurring, the complete cylinder head must be changed. The fuel pump is mounted on the side of the cylinder head and is driven by a pushrod from an eccentric cam on the camshaft.

The cam followers are of the hydraulic type, which eliminates the need for valve clearance adjustment and also ensures that valve timing is always correct. With this type of follower, if the engine has been standing idle for a period of time, or after overhaul, when the engine is started up valve clatter may be heard. This is a normal condition and will gradually disappear within a few minutes of starting up

as the cam followers are pressurised with oil.

The distributor is driven from the rear

(flywheel) end of the camshaft.

The coolant pump is mounted on the timing belt end of the cylinder block and is driven by the toothed belt.

A gear type oil pump is mounted on the timing belt end of the cylinder block and is driven by a gear on the front end of the crankshaft.

A full-flow oil filter of throw-away type is located on the side of crankcase nearer the front of the vehicle.

2 Operations possible without

removing engine from vehicle

The following work can be carried out without having to remove the engine:

a) Timing belt - renewal b) Camshaft oil seal - renewal c) Camshaft - removal and refitting d) Crankshaft front oil seal - renewal* e) Sump - removal and refitting f) Piston/connecting rod - removal and

refitting

g) Engine/transmission mountings - removal

and refitting *Note: Replacement of the crankshaft front oil seal with the engine in situ is made difficult by restricted access. Accurate fitting of the new seal in this position will only be possible using Ford special tool number 21-093 (or a similar fabricated distance piece) used, together with the crankshaft timing belt pulley retaining bolt,

to draw the new seal into position against the stop. In view of this, partial removal of the engine and transmission may well be necessary to renew this seal.

3 Operations only possible

with engine removed from vehicle

The following work should be carried out

only after the engine has been removed:

a) Crankshaft main bearings - renewal b) Crankshaft - removal and refitting c) *Flywheel - removal and refitting d) ** Crankshaft rear oil seal - renewal e) *Oil pump - removal and refitting

Although it is possible to undertake those operations marked * without removing the engine, and those marked ** by removing the transmission, such work is not recommended and is unlikely to save much time over that required to withdraw the complete engine/transmission.

4 Timing belt - inspection,

removal and refitting

Inspection

1 This operation will only normally be required at the specified timing belt renewal intervals (see Chapter 1), or for removal of the coolant pump.

CVH engine repair procedures 2B•5

Page 42

2 Disconnect the battery earth lead. 3 Release the alternator mounting and

adjuster link bolts, push the alternator in towards the engine and slip the drivebelt from the pulleys. 4 On earlier models, unscrew the four retaining bolts and remove the timing belt cover (see illustration). Note that a two-piece cover has been progressively introduced on all later models (see illustration). The upper half of the cover is visually similar to the earlier one-piece type and can be removed after undoing the two retaining bolts. To withdraw the lower half it will first be necessary to remove the crankshaft pulley after which the two retaining bolts can then be undone and the cover removed. 5 The timing belt can now be inspected for signs of excessive wear or damage; if found, the belt must be renewed. If the belt is

damaged or has worn prematurely, a check must be made to find the cause. There are three main causes of timing belt failures and these are as follows:

a) If some of the teeth have sheared off and

some are badly worn, check the surface of the crankshaft pulley teeth for signs of damage or defects and renew the pulley, if necessary.

b) If some belt teeth have sheared off and

others are cracked at their roots, then this indicates an excessive torque loading on the belt, and the water pump, distributor, timing belt tensioner wheel and the camshaft must be checked for freedom of movement. In the case of the camshaft the rockers must be removed when checking it for freedom of rotation. Renew or repair as necessary before renewing the timing belt.

c) If some teeth have sheared from the belt

whilst others are undamaged, the belt will have jammed in the belt pulley or the engine has possibly been over-revved. Check the items mentioned in (b) and

renew as necessary. Note: In 1988, an improved timing belt was introduced (part no. 1653887) together with a modified tensioner pulley of larger diameter (part no. 6182891). If the belt is to be renewed, then the modified pulley must also be renewed.

Removal

6 To remove the timing belt, proceed as follows:

7 Using a ring or socket spanner on the crankshaft pulley bolt, turn the crankshaft until the timing mark on the camshaft sprocket is opposite the TDC mark on the cylinder head and the small projection on the crankshaft belt sprocket front flange is in alignment with the TDC mark on the oil pump casing. Remove the starter, jam the flywheel ring gear and unbolt and remove the crankshaft pulley (see

illustrations). 8 Slacken the bolts which secure the belt

tensioner and using a large screwdriver, prise the tensioner to one side to relieve spring tension on the belt. (Some tensioners do not incorporate a spring.) Temporarily retighten the bolts. 9 If the original belt is to be refitted, mark it for direction of travel and also the exact tooth positions on all three sprockets. 10 Slip the timing belt from its sprockets.

Refitting

11 Refit by reversing the removal operations, but before engaging the belt to the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets, check that they are set to TDC as previously described. Adjust the position of the sprockets slightly if necessary, but avoid any excessive movement of the sprockets while the belt is off, as the piston crowns and valve heads may make contact, with consequent damage to both components. 12 Engage the timing belt with the teeth of the crankshaft sprocket (slip the sprocket off the crankshaft if necessary to avoid kinking the belt), and then pull the belt vertically upright on its right-hand run. Keep it taut and engage it with the teeth of the camshaft sprocket. Check that the positions of the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets have not altered. 13 Wind the belt around the camshaft sprocket, around and under the tensioner idler pulley and over the coolant pump sprocket (no set position for this) (see illustration). 14 Loosen the tensioner retaining bolts by half a turn each to allow the tensioner to snap into position against the timing belt. 15 With the crankshaft locked in position at TDC, fit a 41 mm socket and torque wrench onto the camshaft sprocket hexagon and apply an anti-clockwise torque in accordance

2B•6 CVH engine repair procedures

4.4a Undo the four retaining bolts

(arrowed) to remove the timing cover -

1-piece type

4.7a Camshaft sprocket timing mark

4.7d . . . another method of jamming the flywheel ring gear

4.7c One method of jamming the flywheel ring gear . . .

4.7b Align the crankshaft sprocket with its timing mark

4.4b The 2-piece timing belt cover

Page 43

with the settings given in the Specifications. Whilst applying this torque setting to the camshaft, simultaneously tighten the tensioner retaining bolts, right-hand then lefthand bolt, to their specified torque wrench setting. This is an initial setting up procedure only - the belt tension should be checked with Ford tool 21-113: therefore the car will have to be taken to a dealer as soon as possible (see

illustration). 16 Refit the crankshaft pulley, the retaining

bolt and washer, and tighten to the specified torque wrench setting (see illustration). 17 Refit the belt cover, refit and adjust the drivebelt, and reconnect the battery.

5 Camshaft oil seal - renewal

1 Disconnect the battery earth lead. 2 Release the timing belt from the camshaft

sprocket. 3 Pass a bar through one of the holes in the camshaft sprocket to anchor the sprocket while the retaining bolt is unscrewed. Remove the sprocket. 4 Using a suitable tool, hooked at its end, prise out the oil seal (see illustration). 5 Apply a little grease to the lips of the new seal and draw it into position using the sprocket bolt and a suitable distance piece

(see illustration). 6 Refit the sprocket, tightening the bolt to the

specified torque wrench setting. Thread-

locking compound should be applied to the threads of the bolt.

7 Refit and tension the timing belt. 8 Reconnect the battery.

6 Camshaft - removal and

refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery earth lead. 2 Disconnect the crankcase ventilation hose

from the inlet manifold and the rocker cover. 3 Extract the two larger screws from the lid of the air cleaner, raise the air cleaner, disconnect the hoses and remove the cleaner. 4 Disconnect the pipes and remove the windscreen washer fluid reservoir from the engine compartment. 5 Disconnect the HT leads from the spark plugs, then remove the distributor cap and secure it to the left-hand side of the engine compartment. 6 Unscrew the three bolts and withdraw the distributor from the cylinder head. Note that the distributor body is marked in relation to the cylinder head. 7 Unbolt and remove the fuel pump, complete with coil spring. Withdraw the insulating spacer and operating pushrod. 8 Unbolt the throttle cable bracket at the carburettor and then disconnect the cable by sliding back the spring clip. 9 Remove the timing belt cover-to-cylinder head attachment bolts.

10 Remove the rocker cover (see illustration). 11 Unscrew the securing nuts and remove

the rocker arms and guides (see illustration). Keep the components in their originally installed sequence by marking them with a piece of numbered tape or by using a suitably sub-divided box. 12 Withdraw the hydraulic cam followers, again keeping them in their originally fitted sequence (see illustration). 13 Slacken the alternator mounting and adjuster link bolts, push the alternator in towards the engine and slip the drivebelt from the pulleys. 14 Unbolt and remove the timing belt cover and turn the crankshaft to align the timing mark on the camshaft sprocket with the one on the cylinder head.

CVH engine repair procedures 2B•7

4.16 Crankshaft pulley, bolt and washer

6.11 Rocker arm components

A Rocker arm B Guide

C Spacer plate6.10 Remove the rocker cover5.5 Installing the camshaft oil seal

5.4 Removing the camshaft oil seal

4.15 Method used to initially tension the timing belt

4.13 Timing belt correctly located

Page 44

15 Slacken the bolts on the timing belt tensioner, lever the tensioner against the tension of its coil spring (if fitted) and retighten the bolts. With the belt now slack, slip it from the camshaft sprocket. 16 Pass a rod or large screwdriver through one of the holes in the camshaft sprocket to lock it and unscrew the sprocket bolt (see

illustration). Remove the sprocket. 17 Extract the two bolts and pull out the camshaft thrust plate (see illustrations). 18 Carefully withdraw the camshaft from the distributor end of the cylinder head (see illustration).

Refitting

19 Refitting the camshaft is a reversal of removal, but observe the following points. 20 Lubricate the camshaft bearings before inserting the camshaft into the cylinder head. 21 It is recommended that a new oil seal is always fitted after the camshaft has been installed. Apply thread-locking compound to the sprocket bolt threads.

22 Fit and tension the timing belt. 23 Oil the hydraulic cam followers with

hypoid type transmission oil before inserting them into their original bores. 24 Refit the rocker arms and guides in their original sequence, use new nuts and tighten to the specified torque. It is essential that before each rocker arm is installed and its nut tightened, the respective cam follower is positioned at its lowest point (in contact with cam base circle). Turn the camshaft (by means of the crankshaft pulley bolt) as necessary to achieve this. 25 Use a new rocker cover gasket. Do not forget to refit the timing belt cover bolts.

7 Cylinder head - removal and

refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery earth lead. 2 Remove the air cleaner and detach the

connecting hoses.

3 Drain the cooling system. 4 Disconnect the coolant hoses from the

thermostat housing.

5 Disconnect the coolant hoses from the automatic choke (if necessary). 6 Disconnect the throttle cable from the carburettor. 7 Disconnect the fuel pipe from the fuel pump. 8 Disconnect the vacuum servo pipe from the inlet manifold. 9 Disconnect the leads from the coolant temperature sender, the ignition coil, and the anti-run-on (anti-diesel) solenoid valve at the carburettor. 10 Unbolt the exhaust downpipe from the manifold by unscrewing the flange nuts. Support the exhaust pipe by tying it up with wire. 11 Release the alternator mounting and adjuster link bolts, push the alternator in towards the engine and slip the drivebelt from the pulleys.

12 Unbolt and remove the timing belt cover. 13 Slacken the belt tensioner bolts, lever the

tensioner to one side against the pressure of the coil spring (if fitted) and retighten the bolts. 14 With the timing belt now slack, slip it from the camshaft sprocket. 15 Disconnect the leads from the spark plugs and unscrew and remove the spark plugs.

16 Remove the rocker cover. 17 Unscrew the cylinder head bolts,

progressively and in the reverse sequence to that given for tightening. Discard the bolts, as new ones must be used at reassembly. 18 Remove the cylinder head complete with manifolds. Use the manifolds, if necessary, as levers to rock the head from the block. Do not attempt to tap the head sideways off the

block, as it is located on dowels, and do not attempt to lever between the head and the block, or damage will result.

Refitting

19 Before installing the cylinder head, make sure that the mating surfaces of head and block are perfectly clean with the head locating dowels in position. Clean the bolt holes free from oil. In extreme cases it is possible for oil left in the holes to crack the block. 20 Turn the crankshaft to position No 1 piston about 20 mm (0.8 in) before it reaches TDC.

21 Place a new gasket on the cylinder block (see illustration). The upper surface of the

gasket is marked OBEN-TOP. Note that from 1986 onwards, the configuration of the holes on the cylinder head gasket have been changed from the earlier type and a different

2B•8 CVH engine repair procedures

6.12 Withdrawing a cam follower 6.17a Unscrewing the camshaft thrust plate bolts

7.21a Locate the new cylinder head gasket

6.18 Withdrawing the camshaft6.17b Lifting out the camshaft thrust plate

6.16 Method used to loosen the camshaft sprocket bolt

Page 45

gasket is used for each size of engine. Identification is by teeth on the rear facing edge of the gasket, as shown (see illustration), according to engine type as follows:

1.6 litre 4 teeth

1.4 litre 2 teeth

22 Locate the cylinder head on its dowels (see illustration) and install and tighten the

new cylinder head bolts, tightening them in four stages (see Specifications). After the first two stages, the bolt heads should be marked with a spot of quick-drying paint so that the paint spots all face the same direction. Now tighten the bolts (Stage 3) through 90° (quarter turn) followed by a further 90° (Stage

4). Tighten the bolts at each stage only in the sequence shown (see illustration) before going on to the next stage. If all the bolts have been tightened equally, the paint spots should now all be pointing in the same direction.

23 Fit the timing belt. 24 Refitting and reconnection of all other

components is a reversal of dismantling.

25 Refill the cooling system.

8 Crankshaft front oil seal -

renewal

Note: If replacing the oil seal with the power unit in situ, first refer to the cautionary notes concerning its renewal in Section 2.

1 Disconnect the battery earth lead. 2 Release the alternator mounting and

adjuster link bolts, push the alternator in towards the engine and slip the drivebelt from the pulleys. 3 Unbolt and remove the timing belt cover and by using a spanner or socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt, turn the crankshaft until the timing mark on the camshaft sprocket is in alignment with the mark on the cylinder head. 4 Unbolt and withdraw the starter motor so that the flywheel ring gear can be jammed with a cold chisel or other suitable device and the crankshaft pulley unbolted and removed. 5 Slacken the belt tensioner bolts, lever the tensioner to one side and retighten the bolts.

With the belt slack, it can now be slipped from the sprockets. Before removing the belt note its original position on the sprockets (mark the teeth with quick-drying paint), also its direction of travel. 6 Pull off the crankshaft sprocket. If it is tight, use a two-legged extractor. 7 Remove the dished washer from the crankshaft, noting that the concave side is against the oil seal. 8 Using a hooked tool, prise out the oil seal from the oil pump housing (see illustration). 9 Grease the lips of the new seal and press it into position using the pulley bolt and a distance piece made from a piece of tubing. 10 Fit the thrustwasher (concave side to oil seal), the belt sprocket and the pulley to the crankshaft.

11 Fit and tension the timing belt. 12 Fit the timing belt cover. 13 Refit and tension the alternator drivebelt. 14 Remove the starter ring gear jamming

device, refit the starter motor and reconnect the battery.

CVH engine repair procedures 2B•9

7.22a Refit the cylinder head

8.8 Extracting the oil seal from the oil pump housing7.22b Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence

A Locating dowels B Gasket identification teeth

(1.4 litre version shown)

C Top mark

7.21b Cylinder head gasket details

Page 46

9 Sump - removal and refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery earth lead. 2 Drain the engine oil. 3 Unbolt and remove the starter motor. 4 Unbolt and remove the cover plate from the

clutch housing. 5 Unscrew the plastic timing belt guard from the front end of the engine (two bolts). 6 Unscrew the sump securing bolts progressively and remove them.

7 Remove the sump and peel away the gaskets and sealing strips.

Refitting

8 On the earlier four-piece gasket arrangement, make sure that the mating surfaces of the sump and block are clean, then fit new end sealing strips into their grooves and stick new side gaskets into position using thick grease. The ends of the side gaskets should overlap the seals. Offer up the sump, taking care not to displace the gaskets and insert the securing bolts (see illustrations). Tighten the bolts in two stages to the final torque given in the Specifications. Fit the timing belt guard. 9 In April 1985, a modified sump and onepiece sump gasket were introduced to improve sealing in the region of the oil pump and rear oil seal carrier- to-cylinder block joints. Removal and refitting procedures are essentially the same as for the earlier fourpiece gasket arrangement but note the following when refitting:

a) The gasket should be fitted dry but

jointing compound should be applied to the oil pump and rear oil seal carrier-tocylinder block joints as shown

(see

illustration).

b) To aid installation , it is helpful if a few

studs can be screwed into the retaining bolt holes on each side to locate the gasket as the sump is fitted. As the sump is placed in position make sure that the spacing pips in the sump face locate in the holes in the gasket, then fit the

retaining bolts finger tight (see illustration). Remove the studs and fit the rest of the bolts.

c) Tighten the bolts evenly in two stages to

the specified torque.

Note that the one-piece gasket can be fitted to earlier engines provided that it is used in conjunction with the modified sump. 10 Refit the cover plate to the flywheel housing (see illustration).

11 Refit the starter motor. 12 Fill the engine with oil and reconnect the

battery.

10 Pistons/connecting rods -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 Remove the sump and the cylinder head. 2 Check that the connecting rod and cap have

adjacent numbers at their big-end to indicate their position in the cylinder block (No 1 nearest timing cover end of engine) (see

illustration). 3 Bring the first piston to the lowest point of

its throw by turning the crankshaft pulley bolt and then check if there is a wear ridge at the top of the bore. If there is, it should be removed using a scraper, but do not damage the cylinder bore.

4 Unscrew and remove the big-end bolts. 5 Tap off the cap. If the bearing shell is to be

used again, make sure that it is retained with the cap. Note the two cap positioning roll pins.

2B•10 CVH engine repair procedures

9.8a Sump front (A) and rear (B) sealing strip locations - 4-piece type

9.8c Fitting the sump over a 4-piece gasket

10.2 Connecting rod and big-end cap matching numbers (arrowed)

9.10 Fit the flywheel housing cover plate

9.9b Ensure spacing pips and gasket

holes (inset) engage when fitting modified

sump and 1-piece gasket

9.9a Sealing compound application area for 1-piece sump gasket

A Oil pump joint B Rear oil seal carrier joint Apply sealer to shaded area

9.8b Sump gasket to overlap sealing strip

- 4-piece type

Page 47

6 Push the piston/rod out of the top of the

block, again keeping the bearing shell with the rod if the shell is to be used again. 7 Repeat the removal operations on the remaining piston/rod assemblies.

Refitting

8 To refit a piston/rod assembly, have the piston ring gaps staggered as shown (see illustration). Oil the rings and apply a piston ring compressor. Compress the piston rings.

9 Oil the cylinder bores. 10 Wipe clean the bearing shell seat in the connecting rod and insert the shell (see illustration). 11 Insert the piston/rod assembly into the

cylinder bore until the base of the piston ring compressor stands squarely on the top of the block. 12 Check that the directional arrow on the piston crown faces towards the timing cover end of the engine, then apply the wooden handle of a hammer to the piston crown. Strike the head of the hammer sharply to drive the piston into the cylinder bore and release the ring compressor (see illustration). 13 Oil the crankpin and draw the connecting rod down to engage with the crankshaft. Make sure the bearing shell is still in position. 14 Wipe the bearing shell seat in the big-end cap clean and insert the bearing shell (see

illustration). 15 Fit the cap, screw in the bolts and tighten them to the specified torque (see illustrations).

16 Repeat the operations on the remaining

pistons/connecting rods.

17 Refit the sump and the cylinder head. 18 Refill the engine with oil and coolant.

11 Engine/transmission

mountings - removal and

refitting

Refer to Chapter 2A, Section 11.

12 Oil filter - renewal

1 The oil filter is of throw-away, screw-on cartridge type, mounted on the right-hand side of the crankcase.

2 Renewal is described in Chapter 1, Section 3.

13 Engine/transmission -

removal and separation

Note: Proceed as described for the OHV engine in Chapter 2A, Section 12 but note the following differences:

1 A lateral coolant pipe is not fitted to the side of the cylinder block on the CVH variants but the heater hoses must be disconnected from the thermostat housing and distribution (see

illustrations). 2 When disconnecting the driveshafts,

disregard paragraphs 20 to 26 as they can be detached by undoing the socket-head bolts. These can be loosened using a 6mm Allen key. 3 Disconnect the right-hand shaft just to the right of the intermediate shaft support

CVH engine repair procedures 2B•11

10.12 Installing a piston/connecting rod assembly

13.1b Radiator bottom hose and distribution piece

13.1a Thermostat housing hose connections

10.15b . . . and tighten the retaining bolts10.15a Fit the big-end cap . . .10.14 Fit the bearing shell to the big-end

cap

10.10 Fit the bearing shell to the connecting rod

10.8 Piston ring end gap positioning

Page 48

bracket. Remove the bolts, together with the link washers, and detach the shaft, but do not let it hang freely; support it by suspending with a suitable length of wire. The right-hand intermediate shaft can be left in position during removal of the engine/transmission. 4 Disconnect the inner end of the left-hand driveshaft by unscrewing and removing the socket-head bolts and three link washers. Suspend the driveshaft with wire. Note that there is no need to disconnect the steering track-rod balljoint and lower suspension arm pivot or tie-rod to enable the engine/transmission to be removed and refitted. 5 Remove the intermediate shaft once the engine/transmission is removed, to allow for their subsequent separation.

6 Support and lower the engine/transmission (see illustrations).

14 Engine - dismantling

1 The need for dismantling will have been dictated by wear or noise in most cases. Although there is no reason why only partial dismantling cannot be carried out to renew such items as the oil pump or crankshaft rear oil seal, when the main bearings or big-end bearings have been knocking, and especially if the vehicle has covered a high mileage, it is recommended that a complete strip-down be carried out and every engine component examined. 2 Unbolt and remove the engine bearer and mountings. Position the engine so that it is upright and safely chocked on a bench or other convenient working surface. If the exterior of the engine is very dirty it should be cleaned before dismantling, using paraffin and a stiff brush or a water-soluble solvent. 3 Remove the alternator, the mounting bracket and exhaust heat shield, and the adjuster link. 4 Disconnect the heater hose from the coolant pump.

5 Drain the engine oil and remove the filter. 6 Jam the flywheel starter ring gear to prevent

the crankshaft from turning and unscrew the crankshaft pulley bolt. Remove the pulley.

7 Unbolt and remove the timing belt cover. 8 Slacken the two bolts on the timing belt

tensioner, lever the tensioner against its spring pressure and tighten the bolts to lock it in position.

9 With the belt now slack, note its running direction and mark the mating belt and sprocket teeth with a spot of quick-drying paint. This is not necessary if the belt is being renewed. 10 Disconnect the spark plug leads and remove the distributor cap complete with HT leads.

11 Unscrew and remove the spark plugs. 12 Disconnect the crankcase ventilation hose from its connector on the crankcase (see illustration). 13 Remove the rocker cover (see illustration). 14 Unscrew the cylinder head bolts in the

reverse order to tightening and discard them. New bolts must be used at reassembly. 15 Remove the cylinder head, complete with manifolds. 16 Turn the engine on its side. Do not invert it as sludge in the sump may enter the oilways. Remove the sump bolts, withdraw the sump and peel off the gaskets and sealing strips. 17 Remove the bolts from the clutch pressure plate in a progressive manner until the pressure of the assembly is relieved and then remove the cover, taking care not to allow the driven plate (friction disc) to fall to the floor. 18 Unbolt and remove the flywheel. The bolt holes are offset so it will only fit one way.

19 Remove the engine adapter plate. 20 Unbolt and remove the crankshaft rear oil seal retainer (see illustration). 21 Unbolt and remove the timing belt

tensioner and take out the coil spring. (This spring is not used on all models) (see

illustration). 22 Unbolt and remove the coolant pump. 23 Remove the belt sprocket from the

crankshaft using the hands or, if tight, a twolegged puller. Take off the dished washer. 24 Unbolt the oil pump and pick-up tube and remove them as an assembly. 25 Unscrew and remove the oil pressure switch (see illustration). 26 Turn the crankshaft so that all the pistons are half-way down the bores, and feel if a wear ridge exists at the top of the bores. If so, scrape the ridge away, taking care not to damage the bores.

2B•12 CVH engine repair procedures

13.6a Attach engine support sling to points indicated (arrowed)

14.12 Crankcase ventilation hose attachment

14.21 Remove the timing belt tensioner14.20 Crankshaft rear oil seal retainer14.13 Lift the rocker cover clear

13.6b Engine and gearbox assembly

lowered onto trolley for removal from

underneath the car

Page 49

27 Inspect the big-end and main bearing

caps for markings. The main bearings should be marked 1 to 5 with a directional arrow pointing to the timing cover end. The big-end caps and connecting rods should have adjacent matching numbers. Number 1 is at the timing cover end of the engine. Make your own marks if necessary. 28 Unscrew the bolts from the first big-end cap and remove the cap. The cap is located on two roll pins, so if the cap requires tapping off make sure that it is not tapped in a sideways direction. 29 Retain the bearing shell with the cap if the shell is to be used again. 30 Push the piston/connecting rod out of the top of the cylinder block, again retaining the bearing shell with the rod if the shell is to be used again. 31 Remove the remaining pistons/rods in a similar way. 32 Remove the main bearing caps, keeping the shells with their respective caps if the shells are to be used again. Lift out the crankshaft. 33 Take out the bearing shells from the crankcase, noting the semi-circular thrustwashers on either side of the centre

bearing. Keep the shells identified as to position in the crankcase if they are to be used again. 34 Prise down the spring arms of the crankcase ventilation baffle and remove it from inside the crankcase just below the ventilation hose connection (see illustration). 35 The engine is now completely dismantled and each component should be examined before reassembling.

15 Engine - examination and

renovation

Crankshaft bearings, cylinder bores and pistons

1 Refer to paragraphs 1 to 15 of Section 14, Chapter 2A. The information applies equally to the CVH engine, except that standard sized crankshafts are unmarked and the following differences in the piston rings should be noted. 2 The top rings are coated with molybdenum. Avoid damaging the coating when fitting the rings to the pistons.

3 The lower (oil control) ring must be fitted so that the manufacturer’s mark is towards the piston crown, or the groove towards the gudgeon pin. Take care that the rails of the oil control ring abut without overlapping.

Timing sprockets and belt

4 It is very rare for the teeth of the sprockets to wear, but attention should be given to the tensioner idler pulley. It must turn freely and smoothly, be ungrooved and without any shake in its bearing. Otherwise renew it. 5 Always renew the coil spring (if fitted) in the tensioner. If the engine has covered 50 000 miles (80 000 km) then it is recommended that a new belt be fitted, even if the original one appears in good condition.

Flywheel

6 Refer to the information given in Section 14, Chapter 2A.

Oil pump

7 From 1986 onwards the previously used gear type oil pump has been superseded by a new low friction rotor type pump (see

illustrations). 8 The examination and renovation procedures

are the same for each type of pump. 9 Wear limit tolerances are supplied for both pump types and the clearances can be checked with a feeler blade as follows. 10 Measure the inner-to-outer rotor clearance by inserting the feeler blade between the peak of one of the inner rotor gear teeth or lobes, and the outer rotor. 11 Measure the outer rotor-to-housing clearance by inserting the feeler blade between the outer rotor and the pump body wall. 12 Measure the rotor to cover endfloat by placing a straight edge across the pump body face and inserting a feeler blade between the straight edge and the rotors.

CVH engine repair procedures 2B•13

15.7b Exploded view of the rotor type oil pump15.7a Exploded view of the gear type oil pump

A Relief valve B Driven gear C Drive gear

D Cover plate E Oil return pipe

A Pressure relief valve B Outer rotor

C Inner rotor D Oil pump cover

14.34 Crankcase ventilation baffle (arrowed)

14.25 Unscrew the oil pressure switch

Page 50

13 If any of the measured clearances are outside the tolerances given in the Specifications, renew the pump. Note that the rotor type pump can only be fitted to post-1986 engines due to the modified drive slot on the front of the crankshaft.

Oil seals and gaskets

14 Renew the oil seals in the oil pump and in the crankshaft rear oil seal retainer as a matter of routine at time of major overhaul. It is recommended that the new seals should be drawn into these components using a nut and bolt and distance pieces, rather than tapping them into position, to avoid distortion of the light alloy castings. 15 Renew the camshaft oil seal after the camshaft has been installed. 16 Always smear the lips of a new oil seal with grease, and check that the small tensioner spring in the oil seal has not been displaced during installation. 17 Renew all gaskets by purchasing the appropriate engine set, which usually includes the necessary oil seals.

Crankcase

18 Refer to the information given in Section 14, Chapter 2A.

Camshaft and bearings

19 Examine the camshaft gear and lobes for damage or wear. If evident, a new camshaft must be purchased, or one which has been built-up, such as are advertised by firms specialising in exchange components. 20 The bearing internal diameters in the cylinder head should be checked against the Specifications if a suitable gauge is available, otherwise check for movement between the camshaft journal and the bearing. If the bearings are proved to be worn, then a new cylinder head is the only answer as the bearings are machined directly in the cylinder head. 21 Check the camshaft endfloat by temporarily refitting the camshaft and thrust plate. If the endfloat exceeds the specified tolerance, renew the thrust plate.

Cam followers

22 It is seldom that the hydraulic type cam followers (tappets) wear in their cylinder head bores. If the bores are worn then a new cylinder head is called for. 23 If the cam lobe contact surface shows signs of a depression or grooving, grinding out the wear surface will not only remove the hardened surface of the follower but may also reduce its overall length to a point where the self-adjusting capability of the cam follower is exceeded and the valve clearances are not taken up, with consequent noisy operation. 24 The cam follower cannot be dismantled for renewal of individual components. In the event of excessive wear or damage, it should be renewed.

Cylinder head and rocker arms

25 The usual reason for dismantling the cylinder head is to decarbonise and to grind in the valves. Reference should therefore be made to the next Section in addition to the dismantling operations described here. 26 Remove the inlet and exhaust manifolds and their gaskets, also the thermostat housing. 27 Unscrew the nuts from the rocker arms and discard the nuts. New ones must be fitted at reassembly. 28 Remove the rocker arms and the hydraulic cam followers, keeping them in their originally fitted sequence. Keep the rocker guide and spacer plates in order. 29 The camshaft need not be withdrawn but if it is wished to do so, first remove the thrust plate and take the camshaft out from the rear of the cylinder head. 30 The valve springs should now be compressed. A standard type of compressor will normally do the job, but a forked tool (Part No 21-097) can be purchased or made up to engage on the rocker stud using a nut and distance piece to compress it (see

illustration). 31 Compress the valve spring and extract the

split collets. Do not overcompress the spring, or the valve stem may bend. If it is found when screwing down the compressor tool that the spring retainer does not release from the collets, remove the compressor and place a piece of tubing on the retainer so that it does not impinge on the collets and place a small block of wood under the head of the valve. With the cylinder head resting flat down on the bench, strike the end of the tubing a sharp blow with a hammer. Refit the compressor and compress the spring. 32 Extract the split collets and then gently release the compressor and remove it. 33 Remove the valve spring retainer, the spring and the valve stem oil seal (see

illustration). Withdraw the valve. 34 Valve removal should commence with No

1 valve (nearest timing cover end). Keep the valves and their components in their originally installed order by placing them in a piece of card which has holes punched in it and numbered 1 to 8.

35 To check for wear in the valve guides, place each valve in turn in its guide so that approximately one third of its length enters the guide. Rock the valve from side to side. If any more than the slightest movement is possible, the guides will have to be reamed (working from the valve seat end) and oversize stemmed valves fitted. If you do not have the necessary reamer (Tool No 21-071 to 21-074), leave this work to your Ford dealer. 36 Examine the valve seats. Normally the seats do not deteriorate but the valve heads are more likely to burn away, in which case new valves can be ground in. If the seats require recutting, use a standard cutter, available from most accessory or tool stores. 37 Renewal of any valve seat which is cracked or beyond recutting is definitely a job for your dealer or motor engineering works. 38 If the rocker arm studs must be removed for any reason, a special procedure is necessary. Warm the upper ends of the studs with a blow-lamp flame (not a welder) before unscrewing them. Clean out the cylinder head threads with an M10 tap and clean the threads of oil or grease. Discard the old studs and fit new ones, which will be coated with adhesive compound on their threaded portion. Screw in the studs without pausing, otherwise the adhesive will start to set and prevent the stud seating. 39 If the cylinder head mating surface is suspected of being distorted, it can be checked and surface ground by your dealer or motor engineering works. Distortion is possible with this type of light alloy head if the bolt tightening method is not followed exactly, or if severe overheating has taken place. 40 Check the rocker arm contact surfaces for wear. Renew the valve springs if they have been in service for 50 000 miles (80000 km) or more. 41 Commence reassembly of the cylinder head by fitting new valve stem oil seals (see

illustrations). 42 Oil No 1 valve stem and insert the valve into its guide (see illustration). 43 Fit the valve spring (closer coils to cylinder head), then the spring retainer (see illustrations).

2B•14 CVH engine repair procedures

15.30 Special valve spring compressing tool

15.33 Valve stem oil seal can be prised free

Page 51

44 Compress the spring and engage the split collets in the cut-out in the valve stem (see illustration). Hold them in position while the

compressor is gently released and removed. 45 Repeat the operations on the remaining valves, making sure that each valve is returned to its original guide or, if new valves have been fitted, into the seat into which it was ground. 46 Once all the valves have been fitted, support the ends of the cylinder head on two wooden blocks and strike the end of each valve stem with a plastic or copper-faced hammer, just a light blow to settle the components. 47 Fit the camshaft (if removed) and a new oil seal. 48 Smear the hydraulic cam followers with hypoid type transmission oil and insert them into their original bores (see illustration).

49 Fit the rocker arms with their guides and spacer plates, use new nuts and tighten to the specified torque. It is important that each rocker arm is installed only when its particular cam follower is at its lowest point (in contact with the cam base circle) (see illustrations). 50 Refit the exhaust and inlet manifolds and the thermostat housing, using all new gaskets.

16 Cylinder head and pistons -

decarbonising

Refer to the procedure given in Chapter 2A, whilst noting that the cylinder head is of light alloy construction and thus avoiding the use of a rotary (power-driven) wire brush.

CVH engine repair procedures 2B•15

15.42 Insert a valve into its guide

15.49c Tighten the rocker arm nut15.49b Fit the rocker arm and guide15.49a Fitting a rocker arm spacer plate

15.48 Inserting a hydraulic cam follower

15.44 Compress the spring and insert the split collet

15.43b . . . and the valve spring retainer15.43a Locate the valve spring . . .

15.41b Valve stem oil seal fitted15.41a Using a socket to install a valve

stem oil seal

Page 52

17 Engine - reassembly

1 With everything clean and parts renewed where necessary, commence reassembly by inserting the ventilation baffle into the crankcase. Make sure that the spring arms engage securely (see illustration). 2 Insert the bearing half shells into their seats in the crankcase, making sure that the seats are perfectly clean (see illustration). 3 Stick the semi-circular thrustwashers on either side of the centre bearing with thick grease. Make sure that the oil channels face outwards (see illustration). 4 Oil the bearing shells and carefully lower the crankshaft into position (see illustration). 5 Insert the bearing shells into the main

bearing caps, making sure that their seats are perfectly clean. Oil the bearings and install the caps to their correct numbered location and with the directional arrow pointing towards the timing belt end of the engine (see

illustrations). 6 Tighten the main bearing cap bolts to the

specified torque. 7 Check the crankshaft endfloat. Ideally a dial gauge should be used, but feeler blades are an alternative if inserted between the face of the thrustwasher and the machined surface of the crankshaft balance web, having first prised the crankshaft in one direction and then the other (see illustration). Provided the thrustwashers at the centre bearing have been renewed, the endfloat should be within specified tolerance. If it is not, oversize thrustwashers are available (see Specifications).

8 The pistons/connecting rods should now be installed. Although new pistons will have been fitted to the rods by your dealer or supplier with the piston crown arrow or cast nipple in the piston oil cut-out pointing towards the timing belt end of the engine, the F mark on the connecting rod or the oil ejection hole in the rod big-end is as shown

(see illustration). 9 Oil the cylinder bores and install the

pistons/connecting rods.

10 Fit the oil pressure switch and tighten. 11 Before fitting the oil pump, action must be

taken to prevent damage to the pump oil seal from the step on the front end of the crankshaft. First remove the Woodruff key and then build up the front end of the crankshaft

2B•16 CVH engine repair procedures

17.1 Crankcase ventilation baffle 17.3 Locate the crankshaft thrustwasher

17.8 Piston/connecting rod orientation

A Arrow points towards timing belt end B Cast nipple position C Cast F mark on connecting rod D Oil ejection hole

17.7 Check crankshaft endfloat using a feeler blade

17.5c . . . ensuring that they are positioned correctly according to their markings

17.5b . . . then fit the caps . . .17.5a Fit the bearing shells to the main

bearing caps . . .

17.4 Install the crankshaft

17.2 Main bearing upper shell fitting

Page 53

using adhesive tape to form a smooth inclined surface to permit the pump seal to slide over the step without turning back its lip or displacing the seal spring during installation

(see illustration).

12 If the oil pump is new, pour some oil into it

before installation in order to prime it and rotate its driving gear a few turns. 13 Align the pump gear flats with those on the crankshaft and install the oil pump, complete with new gasket (see illustration). Tighten the bolts to the specified torque. 14 Remove the adhesive tape and tap the Woodruff key into its groove (see

illustration). 15 Bolt the oil pump pick-up tube into position (see illustration). 16 To the front end of the crankshaft, fit the

dished thrustwasher (belt guide) so that its concave side is towards the pump (see

illustration). 17 Fit the crankshaft belt sprocket. If it is

tight, draw it into position using the pulley bolt and a distance piece. Make sure that the belt retaining flange of the sprocket is towards the front of the crankshaft and the nose of the

shaft has been smeared with a little grease before fitting (see illustration). 18 Install the coolant pump using a new gasket (see illustration) and tightening the bolts to the specified torque. 19 Fit the timing belt tensioner and its coil spring (where fitted). Lever the tensioner fully against the spring pressure and temporarily tighten the bolts. 20 Using a new gasket, bolt on the rear oil seal retainer, which will have been fitted with a new oil seal and the seal lips greased (see

illustration). 21 Engage the engine adapter plate on its

locating dowels and then offer up the flywheel. It will only go on in one position as it has offset holes (see illustrations). Insert new bolts and tighten to the specified torque. The bolts are pre-coated with thread sealant. 22 Fit the clutch and centralise it.

CVH engine repair procedures 2B•17

17.14 Insert the crankshaft Woodruff key

17.21b . . . followed by the flywheel17.21a Locate the engine adapter plate . . .17.20 Locate the crankshaft rear oil seal

and retainer

17.18 Fit the coolant pump

17.17 . . . then the crankshaft timing belt sprocket

17.16 Locate the thrustwasher . . .17.15 Fit the oil pump pick-up tube

retaining bolts

17.13 Oil pump ready for fitting17.11 Tape the front end of the crankshaft

to protect the oil pump seal when fitting

Page 54

23 Fit the sump and the cylinder head, referring to the appropriate Sections of this Chapter.

24 Refit the manifolds (see illustrations). 25 Install and tension the timing belt. 26 Using a new gasket, fit the rocker cover.

Tighten the cover retaining bolts to the specified torque. 27 Reconnect the crankcase ventilation hoses between the rocker cover and the crankcase. 28 Screw in a new set of spark plugs, correctly gapped, and tighten to the specified torque - this is important. If the specified torque is exceeded, the plugs may be impossible to remove.

29 Fit the timing belt cover. 30 Fit the crankshaft pulley (if not done

already) and tighten the bolt to the specified torque while the flywheel ring gear is locked to prevent it from turning. 31 Smear the sealing ring of a new oil filter with a little grease, and screw it into position using hand pressure only. 32 Install the engine mounting brackets, if removed (see illustration). 33 Refit the ancillaries. The alternator bracket and alternator, the fuel pump, the thermostat housing and the distributor.

34 Fit the distributor cap and reconnect the HT leads. 35 Check the tightness of the oil drain plug and insert the dipstick.

18 Engine/transmission -

reconnection and refitting

1 This is a direct reversal of removal and separation of the engine from the transmission. Take care not to damage the radiator or front wings during installation.

Reconnection

2 Check that the clutch driven plate has been centralised and that the pressure plate bolts are tightened to the specified torque (see Chapter 6). 3 Make sure that the engine adapter plate is correctly located on its positioning dowels. 4 Smear the splines of the transmission input shaft with a little grease and then, supporting the weight of the transmission, connect it to the engine by passing the input shaft through the splined hub of the clutch plate until the transmission locates on the dowels.

5 Refit the flange bolts and locate the engine bearer and mounting brackets with the stay rod (see illustrations). Tighten the bolts. 6 Refit the intermediate driveshaft.

Refitting

7 The refitting procedures are similar to those given for the OHV engines in Chapter 2A. 8 Once the engine/transmission is raised and the mountings are secured, the lift sling can be disconnected and the driveshaft reconnected. Insert the driveshaft securing bolts, together with the link washers, and tighten them to their specified torque wrench setting (see Chapter 8). 9 Reconnect the gearchange rod and stabilizer rod, adjusting them as described in Section 17 of Chapter 2A. 10 Once the engine is running, check the timing, idle speed and mixture adjustment. 11 If a number of new internal components have been installed, run the vehicle at a restricted speed for the first few hundred miles to allow time for the new components to bed in. It is also recommended that, with a new or rebuilt engine, the engine oil and filter be changed at the end of the running-in period.

2B•18 CVH engine repair procedures

17.24a Refit the exhaust manifold . . . 17.24c Engine lift hook is fitted with the inlet manifold

18.5b Opposing engine/gearbox mounting bracket

18.5a Engine/gearbox bearer mounting bracket and stay rod

17.32 Engine mounting unit - right-hand rear

17.24b . . . and hot air ducting

Page 55

System type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Radiator with expansion tank, belt-driven coolant pump and electric

radiator fan. Semi-pressurised system on 1.0 and 1.1 litre engines; fully pressurised on 1.3, 1.4 and 1.6 litre engines

Radiator

Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Crossflow, fin on tube

Pressure cap rating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.9 kgf/cm

Thermostat

Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Wax

Opening temperature . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85° to 89°C (185° to 192°F)

Fully open temperature . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99° to 102°C (210° to 216°F)

Coolant pump

Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Centrifugal with vee belt drive (OHV) or driven from toothed timing belt

(CVH)

Drivebelt tension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.0 mm total deflection at centre of longest run

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Coolant pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6

Radiator mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6

Thermostat housing bolts:

OHV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 14

CVH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6

Coolant pump pulley bolts (OHV) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6

Fan shroud-to-radiator bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6

Fan motor-to-shroud nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 3

Radiator drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 1.1

Chapter 3

Cooling, heating and ventilation systems

Coolant pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

Coolant temperature gauge sender unit - removal and refitting . . . .14

Cooling system - draining, flushing and refilling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2

Drivebelt - removal, refitting and tensioning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

Expansion tank - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1

Heater - dismantling and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

Heater - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

Heater blower motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11

Heater controls - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9

Heater controls - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10

Radiator - removal, repair and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

Radiator fan - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

Thermostat - removal, testing and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3

3•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable for

novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Page 56

1 General information and

precautions

General information

The cooling system on all models consists of a radiator, a coolant pump, a thermostat and an electrically-operated radiator fan. The system is pressurised and incorporates an overflow container. The system used on the OHV engine differs from that used on the CVH engine in layout and location of components. The coolant pump on the OHV engine is driven by the alternator drivebelt, while the pump on the CVH engines is driven by the toothed timing belt.

The cooling system operates in the following way. When the coolant is cold, the thermostat is shut and coolant flow is restricted to the cylinder block, cylinder head, inlet manifold and the vehicle interior heater matrix. As the temperature of the coolant rises the thermostat opens, allowing initially partial and then full circulation of the coolant through the radiator. If the vehicle is in forward motion then the inrush of air cools the coolant as it passes across the radiator. If the coolant temperature rises beyond a predetermined level, due for example to ascending a gradient or being held up in a traffic jam, then the electric fan will cut in to supplement normal cooling.

The expansion tank is of the degas type and the necessary pressure/vacuum relief valve is incorporated in the tank cap.

Precautions

Antifreeze/water mixture must be renewed at the specified intervals to preserve its anticorrosive properties. In climates where antifreeze protection is unnecessary, a corrosion inhibitor may be used instead consult a Ford dealer. Never run the engine for long periods with plain water as coolant. Only use the specified antifreeze as inferior brands may not contain the necessary corrosion inhibitors, or may break down at high temperatures. Antifreeze containing methanol is to be avoided, as the methanol evaporates.

2 Cooling system - draining,

flushing, refilling

Refer to Chapter 1, Section 36.

3 Thermostat - removal, testing

and refitting

Removal

1 Drain the cooling system. 2 Loosen the retaining clips and detach the

degas and radiator top hoses from the thermostat housing. On the CVH engine, also detach the heater hoses. 3 Disconnect the lead from the thermal switch on the thermostat housing (see

illustration). 4 Unscrew and remove the retaining bolts, then lift clear the thermostat housing (see illustration). 5 Prise free and lift out the thermostat, noting

its orientation. On the CVH engine, detach the circlip to allow the thermostat to be removed together with its O-ring (see illustrations).

Testing

6 To test the thermostat, first check that in a cold condition its valve plate is closed. Suspend it in a pan of water and gradually heat the water (see illustration). At, or near boiling, the valve plate should be fully open. A more accurate

3•2 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems

3.3 Disconnect the fan thermal switch lead

- OHV

3.5a Thermostat retaining clip - CVH

3.6 Thermostat checking method3.5c . . . and seal ring - CVH3.5b Remove the thermostat . . .

3.4 Thermostat housing and retaining bolts - CVH

Warning: Antifreeze mixture is poisonous. Keep it out of reach of children and pets. Wash

splashes off skin and clothing with plenty of water. Wash splashes off vehicle paintwork to avoid discolouration.

Warning: Take particular care

when working under the bonnet

with the engine running, or

ignition switched on, on vehicles fitted with a temperaturecontrolled radiator cooling fan. As the coolant temperature rises the fan may suddenly actuate so make sure that ties, clothing, hair and hands are away from the fan. Remember that the coolant temperature will continue to rise for a short time after the engine is switched off.

Page 57

assessment of the opening and closing points of the thermostat can be made if a thermometer is placed in the water and results compared with the temperatures given in the Specifications. Check that the thermostat closes again as the water cools down.

Refitting

7 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Always use a new gasket and apply a little jointing compound to the threads of the thermostat housing bolts before screwing them in. Use new hoses and clips where necessary (see

illustration).

4 Radiator fan - removal and

refitting

1 Disconnect the battery. 2 Pull the wiring connector plug from the rear

of the fan motor and unclip the wiring from the fan cowl (see illustration). 3 Unscrew the two fan retaining bolts from the base of the cowl, followed by the two upper bolts (see illustration). 4 Carefully lift the fan assembly from the engine compartment, taking care not to damage the radiator. 5 If removing the fan from the motor shaft, first mark their relative fitted positions to ensure correct realignment on assembly. 6 Extract the retaining clip and take off the fan from the motor shaft. 7 Unscrew the three nuts and separate the motor from the shroud.

8 Reassembly and refitting are reversals of the removal and dismantling operations.

5 Radiator - removal, repair and

refitting

Removal

1 Drain the cooling system. Retain the coolant if it is fit for further service. 2 Release the retaining clips and disconnect all the hoses from the radiator (see

illustrations). 3 Disconnect the wiring plug from the rear of

the radiator fan motor. 4 Unscrew and remove the two mounting bolts (see illustration) and carefully lift the radiator, complete with cowl and fan, from the engine compartment. The base of the radiator is held in place by lugs.

Repair

5 If the purpose of removal was to thoroughly clean the radiator, first reverse flush it with a cold water hose. The normal coolant flow is from left to right (from the thermostat housing to the radiator) through the matrix and out of the opposite side. 6 If the radiator fins are clogged with dirt, remove it with a soft brush or blow compressed air from the rear of the radiator. It is recommended that the fan assembly is first removed. In the absence of a compressed air line, a strong jet from a water hose may provide an alternative method of cleaning.

7 If the radiator is leaking, it is recommended that a reconditioned or new one is obtained from specialists. In an emergency, minor leaks from the radiator can be cured by using a radiator sealant. If the radiator, due to neglect, requires the application of chemical cleaners, follow the manufacturer’s instructions precisely and appreciate that there is an element of risk in the use of most de-scaling products, especially in a system which incorporates alloy and plastic materials.

Refitting

8 Refit the radiator by reversing the removal operations, but make sure that the rubber lug insulators at its base are in position.

9 Refill the system.

6 Coolant pump - removal and

refitting

OHV engine

Removal

1 Drain the cooling system. 2 Release the coolant pump pulley bolts now

while the drivebelt is still in position. Any tendency for the pulley to turn as the bolts are unscrewed can be restrained by depressing the top run of the belt. 3 Release the alternator mounting and adjuster link bolts, push the alternator in towards the engine and slip the drivebelt from the coolant pump pulley.

Cooling, heating and ventilation systems 3•3

4.3 Radiator fan shroud securing bolts (arrowed)

5.4 Radiator left-hand mounting bolt (arrowed)

5.2b . . . the bottom hose and expansion tank hose

5.2a Disconnect the radiator top hose . . .

4.2 Radiator fan wiring connector (A) and wire retaining clip (B)

3.7 Thermostat refitted (CVH) with new hoses and clips

Page 58

4 Disconnect the coolant hose from the pump. Remove the previously slackened pulley bolts and take off the pulley.

5 Unbolt the coolant pump and remove it. 6 Peel away the old gasket from the engine

block and clean the surface. 7 No provision is made for repair and if the pump is leaking or noisy it should be renewed.

Refitting

8 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Use a new

gasket, smeared with jointing compound, and apply the same compound to the threads of the fixing bolts. Tighten the bolts to the specified torque. 9 Adjust the drivebelt tension and refill the cooling system.

CVH engine

Removal

10 Drain the cooling system. 11 Release the alternator mountings and

adjuster strap bolt, push the alternator in towards the engine and slip the drivebelt from the pulley. 12 Apply a spanner to the crankshaft pulley bolt and turn the crankshaft until the notch on the pulley is opposite the TDC mark on the belt cover scale (see illustration). 13 Remove the timing belt cover. Note that on engines fitted with the later type two-piece cover, it is not possible to remove the cover lower half unless the crankshaft pulley is removed first. However, if the two lower cover retaining bolts are removed, the cover can be moved away from the engine sufficiently for the pump to be removed and refitted with the cover still in place. 14 Check that the camshaft and the crankshaft sprockets are aligned with their timing marks. This will prove that No 1 piston is at top dead centre, not No 4 piston. If the marks are not aligned, turn the crankshaft through another complete turn. 15 Using a spot of quick-drying paint, mark the teeth of the belt and their notches on the sprockets so that the belt can be re-engaged in its original position in relation to the sprocket teeth.

16 Slacken the belt tensioner bolts (see illustration) and slide the tensioner to relieve

the tautness of the belt, then slip the belt from

the crankshaft sprocket tensioner pulley and the coolant pump sprocket. 17 Release the clamps and disconnect the hoses from the coolant pump.

18 Remove the timing belt tensioner. 19 Unscrew the four bolts and remove the

coolant pump from the engine cylinder block

(see illustration). 20 No provision is made for repair and if the

pump is leaking or noisy it must be renewed.

Refitting

21 Clean away the old gasket and ensure

that the mating surfaces of the pump and block are perfectly clean. 22 Position a new gasket (on the cylinder block) which has been smeared both sides with jointing compound. Offer up the coolant pump, screw in the bolts and tighten to the specified torque. 23 Fit the belt tensioner, but with the mounting bolts only screwed in loosely.

24 Reconnect and tension the timing belt. 25 Refit the timing belt cover. 26 Fit the alternator drivebelt and tension it. 27 Reconnect the coolant hoses to the pump

and the bottom hose to the radiator.

28 Fill the cooling system.

7 Drivebelt - removal, refitting

and tensioning

Refer to Chapter 1, Section 20.

8 Expansion tank - removal and

refitting

1 Position a suitable container beneath the expansion (degas) tank then loosen the tank hoses and drain the coolant from the tank. 2 Disconnect the overflow pipe from the filler neck on the expansion tank.

3 Unscrew and remove the retaining screw and withdraw the expansion tank. 4 Refit in the reverse order to removal and top-up the cooling system.

9 Heater controls - adjustment

1 The heater control cables are adjusted from the control unit. 2 Move the controls to their top and bottom stops to set the adjustment. When moving the controls to the stop positions, a considerable amount of resistance will be felt.

10 Heater controls - removal

and refitting

Base and L models

1 Disconnect the battery earth lead. 2 From inside the vehicle, remove the dash

lower trim panel on each side (left and right). The panels are secured by tags and clips. 3 Remove the retaining screws and withdraw the upper steering column shroud.

4 Withdraw the ashtray from the facia panel. 5 Pull free and remove the heater and

ventilation control knobs (see illustration).

3•4 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems

6.12 Timing marks - CVH 6.19 Coolant pump unit retaining bolts (arrowed)

10.5 Heating and ventilation controls Base and L models

Left-hand drive shown A Two-stage fan switch B Temperature control C Air distribution control

6.16 Slacken the timing belt tensioner bolts (arrowed)

Warning: If the cooling system is hot, release the pressure cap slowly having covered it with a cloth to avoid any possibility of scalding.

Page 59

6 Unscrew and remove the two screws from the lower section of the instrument cluster bezel then withdraw the bezel upper section from the guide slots. Lift it clear of the control unit at the side. 7 Detach the switch lead connectors at the rear of the bezel. 8 At the heater casing remove the cable clamp screws and unclip the control cables

(see illustration).

9 Disconnect the control unit lights, then

unscrew and remove the control unit, withdrawing complete with the Bowden cables (see illustration). 10 Refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure. On completion adjust the controls.

Ghia and XR2 models

11 Disconnect the battery earth lead. 12 Working inside the vehicle, remove the

dash lower trim panel on each side (left and right). The panels are secured with clips and tags. 13 Pull and withdraw the control knobs from the three rotary switches on the control unit

(see illustration). 14 Unscrew and remove the four screws

securing the control unit bezel and the control unit screws (see illustrations). Carefully withdraw the control unit from the crash padding. 15 Disconnect the control cables from the heater unit casing by loosening the clamp screws and unclipping the cables. 16 Partially withdraw the control unit (with cables) from under the crash pad so that the fan control switch lead can be detached, then fully remove the control unit. 17 This control unit type can be dismantled by bending back the four securing lugs using

a suitable screwdriver and then removing the cover. To release the Bowden cables, unscrew their clamp screws and disengage the cables from the toothed band guides (see illustration). The pivots and toothed band guides can then be removed from the baseplate of the control unit. 18 Refit in the reverse order to removal and adjust the controls.

11 Heater blower motor -

removal and refitting

1 Disconnect the battery earth lead. 2 Undo and remove the six screws securing

the bonnet lock mounting plate and then position the plate (and bonnet lock) to one side. 3 Reach through the plate aperture and detach the lead connector from the fan motor, also detach the earth lead. 4 Bend back the two retaining clips and disengage the fan unit. 5 Rotate and remove the fan; pulling it out through the aperture in the cowl panel.

Cooling, heating and ventilation systems 3•5

10.9 Control unit and cable connections - Base and L models

10.17 Control unit components Ghia and XR2 models

A Cover B Plate nut C Toothed belt

D Pivot E Baseplate F Cable

10.14b Control unit retaining screws (arrowed) - Ghia and XR2 models

10.14a Control unit bezel retaining screws (arrowed) - Ghia and XR2 models

10.13 Heating and ventilation controls Ghia and XR2 models

A Air distribution control B Three-stage fan switch C Temperature control

10.8 Heater control cable connections (to heater casing) Base and L models

A Left side connection B Right side connection C Outer cable clamp screw

D Plate nut E Clip

Page 60

6 Disconnect the fan cover then, using a screwdriver, lift the motor securing clamp

(see illustration) and remove the motor. 7 Refitting is a reversal of the removal

procedure.

12 Heater - removal and refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery earth lead. 2 To minimise the coolant loss, move the

heater controls to the warm position then drain the engine coolant; saving it for re-use by emptying into a suitable container. 3 Working within the engine compartment, disconnect the coolant hoses from the heater pipe stubs at the rear bulkhead. Raise the ends of the hoses to minimise loss of any remaining coolant in the hoses. 4 The heater matrix will still contain coolant and should be drained by blowing into the

upper heater pipe stub and catching the coolant which will be ejected from the lower one. 5 Remove the cover plate and gasket from around the heater pipe stubs. This is held to the bulkhead by two self-tapping screws. 6 Undo and remove the six screws retaining the cowl panel cover place in position (see illustration). Move the cover plate and bonnet lock to one side, out of the way. 7 Reach through the cover plate aperture and detach the lead connector from the fan motor

(see illustration). 8 Working inside the vehicle, remove the

dash lower trim panels from both sides. The panels are held in position by clips and tags. 9 Disconnect the control cables from the heater casing and the flap arms. 10 Using a suitable screwdriver, unclip the cover from the heater unit (see illustration), lower the cover, together with the heater matrix and remove rear end from the guide. The heater matrix can now be fully removed, but take care not to spill any remaining coolant over trim and carpets.

11 Disconnect the air distribution ducts from the heater case on the left- and right-hand sides. 12 Undo the two retaining nuts and lower the heater case unit to enable it to be withdrawn sideways from underneath the facia padding. Note that on models fitted with a central console it is first necessary to detach and remove the radial fan and console before the heater can be withdrawn.

Refitting

13 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Check that the heater casing seal to the cowl is in good order, otherwise renew it. Adjust the heater controls on completion. 14 Top-up the cooling system and reconnect the battery.

13 Heater - dismantling and

reassembly

1 Use a sharp knife to cut through the casing gaskets in line with the casing half-joint flanges (see illustration).

2 Unclip and separate the half-casings (see illustration). 3 Lift out the electric motor and fan unit.

3•6 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems

11.6 Heater fan motor retaining clamp 12.7 Fan motor wiring connector (B)

A Fan B Half-casings C Temperature control valve

D Air distributor valve E Matrix F Cover

13.2 Heater casing components

13.1 Cut the heater casing seal gasket

12.10 Heater casing cover clips (A)

12.6 Cowl panel cover plate (A)

Page 61

4 If not already removed, unclip the retainers

securing the matrix cover, withdraw the cover and lift the matrix from its heater case mounting. 5 The temperature and air distribution control valves can be removed by twisting them and pressing from the casing half. 6 Reassembly is a reversal of the removal procedure. When refitting the air distribution valve, rotate the operating lever so that the window and valve markings align. The valve can only be fitted in this position (see

illustration).

14 Coolant temperature gauge

sender unit - removal and

refitting

1 Should the coolant temperature gauge give incorrect readings (overheating or overcooling indicated, with no apparent accompanying symptoms), then the temperature gauge sender unit may be at fault, and should be renewed as follows. 2 Depressurise the cooling system by removing and refitting the radiator or expansion tank cap, taking precautions against scalding if the engine is still warm. 3 Disconnect the electrical lead, and unscrew

the sender unit from the cylinder head (see illustration). Be prepared for some loss of coolant - this should be negligible. 4 Smear the threads of the new sender unit with sealant, and screw into place. Refit the electrical lead, ensuring that a good metal-tometal contact is obtained. 5 Top-up the coolant level, and run the engine until normal operating temperature is reached (radiator fan cuts in and out). Check for correct gauge operation and also for leaks from the sender unit. No reading may indicate a poor connection at the sender unit - clean the terminals thoroughly. 6 When the engine has cooled down, top-up the coolant level again if necessary.

Cooling, heating and ventilation systems 3•7

14.3 Coolant temperature gauge sender unit location

A OHV engine B CVH engine

13.6 Align the marks (arrowed) when fitting the distribution valve

Page 62

3•8 Notes

Page 63

System type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Rear-mounted fuel tank, mechanical fuel pump, thermostatically-

controlled air cleaner and Ford or Weber carburettor

Fuel grade requirement

1.0 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91 Octane (2-star)

1.1, 1.3, 1.4 and 1.6 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97 Octane (4-star)

Note:

See Section 1 for information on use of unleaded fuel.

Fuel pump

Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mechanical diaphragm type, camshaft driven, non-repairable

Air cleaner

Heat sensor rating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 to 30°C (79 to 86°F)

Carburettor applications

Ford 1V . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 litre (pre 1986)

Ford VV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.1 and 1.3 litre

Weber 2V . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.6 litre (pre 1987)

Weber 2V DFTM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.4 litre

Weber 2V TLD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.6 litre (1987-on)

Weber (1V) TLM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 litre (1986-on)

Chapter 4

Fuel and exhaust systems

Air cleaner element - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2

Air cleaner - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3

Carburettors (all types) - dismantling and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . .10

Choke cable (Ford carburettors) - removal, refitting and

adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9

Emission control components - maintenance and testing . . . . . . . . .28

Emission control components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . .29

Exhaust and inlet manifolds - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26

Exhaust system - renewal and repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27

Ford 1V carburettor - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11

Ford 1V carburettor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

Ford VV carburettor - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

Ford VV carburettor manual choke unit - removal and refitting . . . . .15

Ford VV carburettor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16

Ford VV carburettor throttle damper - removal, refitting and

adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

Fuel pump - testing, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

Fuel tank - cleaning and repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

Fuel tank - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1

Throttle cable - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

Throttle pedal - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Weber 2V carburettor - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17

Weber 2V carburettor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18

Weber 2V DFTM carburettor - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19

Weber 2V DFTM carburettor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .20

Weber 2V TLD carburettor - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21

Weber 2V TLD carburettor automatic choke unit - removal and

refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22

Weber 2V TLD carburettor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23

Weber (1V) TLM carburettor - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24

Weber (1V) TLM carburettor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25

4•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable for

novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Page 64

Ford 1V carburettor

Idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 800 rpm

Idle mixture setting (CO level) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.25%

Fast idle speed (manual choke) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1400 rpm

Float level setting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 mm

Accelerator pump stroke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 mm

Choke plate pull-down . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.5 mm

Main jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112

Ford VV carburettor

Idle speed (fan on) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 750 to 850 rpm

Idle mixture setting (CO level) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 to 2%

Weber 2V carburettor

Idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 775 to 825 rpm

Idle mixture setting (CO level) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 to 1.50%

Fast idle speed (on high cam) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2675 to 2725 rpm

Float level setting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34.5 to 35.5 mm

Vacuum pull-down . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.2 to 5.8 mm

Choke phasing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 to 2.5 mm

Main jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115/125

Air jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160/150

Emulsion tube . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . F30/F30

Idle jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50/60

Weber 2V DFTM carburettor

Idle speed (fan running) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 750 to 850 rpm

Idle mixture setting (CO level) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.25 to 1.75%

Float height . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.5 to 8.5 mm

Throttle kicker speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1250 to 1350 rpm

Choke fast idle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2600 to 2800 rpm

Choke vacuum pull-down . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.7 to 3.2 mm

Primary Secondary

Venturi diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 mm 23 mm

Main jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 125

Air correction jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200 165

Emulsion tube . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . F22 F60

Idle jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 60

Weber 2V TLD carburettor

Idle speed (fan running) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 750 to 850 rpm

Idle mixture setting (CO level) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.25 to 1.75%

Float height . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30.5 to 31.5 mm

Choke vacuum pull-down . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.0 to 5.0 mm

Choke fast idle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1850 to 1950 rpm

Primary Secondary

Venturi diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 mm 23 mm

Main jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117 127

Emulsion tube . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . F105 F71

Air correction jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185 125

Weber (1V) TLM carburettor

Idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 775 to 825 rpm

Idle mixture setting (CO level) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.20 to 1.30%

Float height . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29.0 to 31.0 mm

Choke fast idle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3100 to 3300 rpm

Venturi diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

Main jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112

Air correction jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Exhaust manifold flange . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 to 40 26 to 30

Exhaust connecting flange . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 to 45 28 to 33

Carburettor flange nuts:

Ford . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 14

Weber . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

Fuel pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 13

4•2 Fuel and exhaust systems

Page 65

1 General information and

precautions

General information

The fuel system is composed of four basic components. These are the fuel tank with level indicator, the fuel pump, the carburettor and its controls, and the air cleaner. A basic emission control system is fitted.

The fuel tank is located under the floorpan beneath the rear seats. The filler neck protrudes through the left-hand side of the vehicle, while the combined outlet pipe and fuel level indicator sender unit is located on the right-hand side of the tank. A ventilation or breather pipe is located on the top of the tank.

The fuel pump on all models is a mechanical diaphragm type being driven from the camshaft. On OHV models it is mounted on the side of the cylinder block whilst on CVH models it is mounted on the side of the cylinder head and is actuated by a pushrod. The fuel pumps on both models are fully sealed units and no servicing or repairs are possible.

On all models the air cleaner unit is of the disposable paper element type with an integral thermostatic air inlet control. The thermostatic unit ensures that the air inlet temperature is in accordance with that required, the warm air being drawn from a heat box mounted directly across the exhaust manifold: cool air being drawn through the inlet in the engine compartment. The thermostat within the air cleaner body opens or closes an air control flap valve to regulate the air inlet temperature as required.

Precautions

Fuel

Use of unleaded fuel

The continuous use of 95 RON unleaded fuel is dependent upon whether the engine is fitted with hardened valve seats. 957 cc and 1117 cc engines built up until the end of January 1986 have “VG” or “CL” stamped on the flywheel end of the cylinder head if they can be run continuously on unleaded fuel. 957 cc and 1117 cc engines built from February

1986 and 1296 cc engines built from October 1985 are all suitable for continuous operation on unleaded fuel. CVH engines built up to the end of 1984 which are suitable for continuous use with unleaded fuel have “LPG” stamped on the cylinder head above No 1 cylinder exhaust port. Later CVH engines are all suitable for continuous operation on unleaded fuel.

Any vehicles which do not come into the foregoing categories may still be run on unleaded fuel, provided that every fourth tankful is of leaded fuel. It is also possible that the ignition timing may need to be retarded to eliminate pinking. For ignition timing values for use with unleaded fuel, see Specifications, Chapter 5.

Tamperproof adjustment screws

Certain adjustment points in the fuel system (and elsewhere) are protected by “tamperproof” caps, plugs or seals. The purpose of such tamperproofing is to discourage adjustment by unqualified operators. In some EEC countries (though not yet in the UK) it is an offence to drive a vehicle with missing or broken tamperproof seals. Before disturbing a tamperproof seal, satisfy yourself that you will not be breaking local or national anti-pollution regulations by doing so. Fit a new seal when adjustment is complete when this is required by law.

Do not break tamperproof seals on a vehicle which is still under warranty.

Work procedures

When working on fuel system components, scrupulous cleanliness must be observed, and care must be taken not to introduce any foreign matter into fuel lines or components. Carburettors in particular are delicate instruments, and care should be taken not to disturb any components unnecessarily. Before attempting work on a carburettor, ensure that the relevant spares are available. Full overhaul procedures for carburettors have not been given in this Chapter, as complete strip-down of a carburettor is unlikely to cure a fault which is not immediately obvious, without introducing new problems. If persistent problems are encountered, it is recommended that the advice of a Ford dealer

or carburettor specialist is sought. Most dealers will be able to provide carburettor rejetting and servicing facilities, and if necessary it should be possible to purchase a reconditioned carburettor of the relevant type.

2 Air cleaner element - renewal

Refer to Chapter 1, Section 31.

3 Air cleaner - removal and

refitting

1 Undo and remove the two screws from the centre section of the cover. On 1.0 litre models also undo the support bracket screw. 2 The air cleaner assembly can now be lifted off the carburettor sufficiently far to be able to disconnect the vacuum hose, the crankcase (flame trap) emission hose and the air inlet duct (see illustration).

3 Refit in the reverse order to removal.

4 Fuel pump - testing, removal

and refitting

Testing

1 On OHV engines, the fuel pump is mounted on the cylinder block and is actuated by a lever which is in direct contact with an eccentric cam on the camshaft. 2 On CVH engines, the pump is mounted on the cylinder head and is actuated by a pushrod from an eccentric cam on the camshaft. 3 The fuel pump may be quite simply tested by disconnecting the fuel inlet pipe from the carburettor and placing its open end in a container. 4 Disconnect the LT lead from the negative terminal of the ignition coil to prevent the engine firing. 5 Actuate the starter motor. Regular welldefined spurts of fuel should be seen being ejected from the open end of the fuel inlet pipe. 6 Where this is not evident and yet there is fuel in the tank, the pump is in need of renewal. The pump is a sealed unit and cannot be dismantled or repaired.

Removal

7 To remove the pump, disconnect and plug the fuel inlet and outlet hoses at the pump and then unbolt it from the engine (see

illustrations). 8 Retain any insulating spacers and remove

and discard the flange gaskets. 9 On CVH engines, withdraw the pushrod.

Fuel and exhaust systems 4•3

3.2 Air cleaner unit underside connections

Warning: Many of the procedures given in this Chapter involve the

disconnection of fuel pipes and system components which may result in some fuel spillage. Before carrying out any operation on the fuel system, refer to the precautions given in the “Safety first” Section at the beginning of this manual and follow them implicitly. Petrol Is a highly dangerous and volatile substance, and the precautions necessary when handling it cannot be over stressed.

Page 66

Refitting

10 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but use new flange gaskets. If crimped type hose clips were used originally, these will have been destroyed when disconnecting the fuel hoses. Renew them with conventional nut and screw or plastic ratchet type clips.

5 Fuel tank - removal and

refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery earth lead. 2 Using a length of flexible tubing, syphon as

much fuel out of the tank as possible. Ensure adequate ventilation. 3 Jack up the rear of the car and suitably support it for access beneath. 4 Disconnect the flexible hoses from the sender unit. 5 Disconnect the electrical leads from the sender unit (see illustration). 6 While supporting the weight of the tank, unscrew and remove the four retaining nuts with flat washers (see illustration). 7 Remove the tank (and guard, where applicable), leaving the fuel filler pipe in position. 8 If it is necessary to remove the sender unit, this can be unscrewed from the tank using the appropriate Ford tool. Alternatively a suitable C-spanner can probably be used. 9 Taking care not to damage the sealing washer, prise out the tank-to-filler pipe seal.

Refitting

10 Refit the filler pipe seal, using a new seal if there is any doubt about the condition of the old one. 11 Refit the sender unit using a new seal as the original one will almost certainly be damaged.

12 The remainder of the refitting procedure is the reverse of removal.

6 Fuel tank - cleaning and

repair

1 Remove the fuel tank from the vehicle. 2 If the tank contains sediment or water, it

may be cleaned out using two or three rinses with paraffin. Shake vigorously using several changes of paraffin, but before doing so remove the sender unit. Allow the tank to drain thoroughly. 3 If removal of the tank was carried out in order to mend a leak, have it repaired professionally; radiator repairers will usually do this. To remove all trace of vapour requires several hours of steaming out.

7 Throttle cable - removal,

refitting and adjustment

Removal

1 Disconnect the earth lead from the battery. 2 From inside the car, detach and remove the

lower dash trim panel on the driver’s side.

3 Pull the grommet from the pedal (see illustration), pull the inner cable through and

unhook it from the pedal. 4 Using a suitable punch, knock out the bulkhead grommet. This will destroy the grommet, and release the outer cable. 5 Remove the air cleaner to gain access to the carburettor cable connection. 6 Slide the clip from the inner cable end and prise off the cable from the throttle shaft ball

(see illustration). 7 Using a suitable screwdriver, carefully prise

out the cable retaining clip. Depress the four pegs on the retainer, and pull the retainer from the mounting bracket.

Refitting

8 Refitting is the reverse of this procedure.

4•4 Fuel and exhaust systems

4.7a Detaching hoses from fuel pump CVH

5.5 Fuel tank components

A Tank B Ventilation hose

C Fuel filler pipe seal D Sender unit

5.6 Fuel tank retaining nuts

4.7b Fuel pump - OHV

Warning: A fuel tank must be repaired professionally. On no account attempt to weld or solder a fuel tank yourself as this will result in an explosion.

Page 67

Adjustment

9 With the air cleaner removed, jam the pedal in the fully open position using a suitable length of wood against the seat or a heavy weight. 10 Wind back the adjusting sleeve at the carburettor until the carburettor linkage is just in the fully open position (see illustration). 11 Release the pedal, then check to ensure that full throttle can be obtained.

12 Refit the air cleaner.

8 Throttle pedal - removal and

refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the earth lead from the battery. 2 From inside the car, unclip and remove the

lower dash trim panel on the driver’s side. 3 Pull back the insulation panel and carpet from around the pedal. 4 Pull the grommet from the pedal, pull the inner cable through and unhook it from the pedal. 5 Unscrew and remove the pedal shaft bracket-to-bulkhead retaining bolt (see

illustration). 6 On right-hand drive models, unscrew and

remove the single retaining nut from under the wheel arch. On left-hand drive models this nut will be found on the engine side of the bulkhead. Remove the pedal.

Refitting

7 Refitting is the reverse of this procedure, after which the throttle cable adjustment should be checked.

9 Choke cable (Ford

carburettors) - removal,

refitting and adjustment

Removal

1 Disconnect the earth lead from the battery. 2 Remove the air cleaner. 3 Undo the screw securing the inner choke

cable and carefully prise out the spring clip retaining the outer cable (see illustration). 4 From inside the car, undo the single retaining screw and detach the cable switch mounting shroud (see illustration). 5 Prise free the choke cable control knob retaining clip and withdraw the knob. 6 Extract the retaining bezel and pull the mounting shroud clear. Pull the cable and withdraw it through the engine compartment side of the bulkhead.

Refitting

7 Refit in the reverse order of removal, but adjust as described below according to carburettor type.

Adjustment

Ford 1V carburettor

8 Withdraw the choke knob to provide a

clearance of 37 mm between the bezel and the knob (see illustration). If possible, make up a spacer to fit between the knob and bezel to maintain this distance. 9 Working at the carburettor end of the cable, measure and make a mark 22 mm from the end of the inner cable using a pencil or tape.

Fuel and exhaust systems 4•5

7.10 Throttle cable adjusting sleeve (arrowed)

9.8 Choke knob-to-bezel clearance during cable adjustment

B = 37 mm (1.45 in)

9.4 Choke control knob components

A Bezel B Shroud C Switch lever

D Clip E Knob

9.3 Choke cable retaining screw (A) and outer cable clip (B)

8.5 Pedal unit-to-bulkhead bolt

7.6 Throttle cable retaining clip (A) and

linkage connection (B) to throttle shaft ball

7.3 Throttle cable location at the pedal end

A Inner cable locating grommet B Pedal shaft C Outer cable locating grommet D Outer cable E Bulkhead

Page 68

Some models have a kink or are fitted with a ferrule at this distance (see illustration). 10 Insert the cable through its location clamp so that the distance mark (kink or ferrule) butts against the inner cable clamp (see illustration). Hold the clamp bolt with a spanner and tighten the retaining screw (see

illustration). 11 Firmly pull on the outer cable to position

the choke operating lever against the full choke stop (A in photo 9.10b) then secure the outer cable in the retaining clip.

12 With the operating lever held against the full choke stop, check that the spacer is still in position between the choke knob and bezel (or distance is as specified in paragraph 8). 13 Remove the spacer and check that the choke fully opens and closes using the choke knob.

Ford VV carburettor

14 Proceed as given in paragraphs 8 to 13

inclusive, but check that a small clearance (1.0 mm) exists between the choke operating lever and the off stop when the lever is released (in the off position).

10 Carburettors (all types) -

dismantling and reassembly

1 A complete strip-down of a carburettor is unlikely to cure a fault which is not immediately obvious without introducing new problems. If persistent carburation problems are encountered, it is recommended that the advice of a Ford dealer or specialist is sought. Most dealers will be able to provide carburettor re-jetting and servicing facilities and if necessary, it should be possible to buy a reconditioned carburettor of the relevant type. 2 If it is decided to go ahead and service a carburettor, check the cost and availability of spare parts before commencement. Obtain a carburettor repair kit, which will contain the necessary gaskets, diaphragms and other renewable items. 3 When working on carburettors, scrupulous cleanliness must be observed and care must be taken not to introduce any foreign matter into components. Carburettors are delicate instruments and care should be taken not to disturb any components unnecessarily. 4 Referring to the relevant exploded view of the carburettor (see illustrations), remove each component part whilst making a note of its fitted position. Make alignment marks on linkages etc. 5 Reassemble the carburettor in the reverse order to dismantling, using new gaskets, Orings etc. Be careful not to kink any diaphragms.

4•6 Fuel and exhaust systems

9.9 Choke cable end types

A Plain cable B Cable with kink C Cable with ferrule

D Outer cable E Inner cable X = 22 mm (0.866 in)

9.10b . . . and tighten retaining screw. Also shown is the fuel choke stop (A)

9.10a Locate the ferrule against clamp (arrowed) . . .

10.4a Ford 1V carburettor components

1 Choke spindle 2 Choke plate 3 Fuel inlet filter 4 Needle valve housing 5 Needle valve 6 Float 7 Pump return spring 8 Accelerator pump diaphragm 9 Tamperproof plug 10 Throttle plate 11 Mixture screw 12 Throttle spindle

13 Main jet Note: Some carburettors may have an antidieseling valve (idle cut-off) fitted

Page 69

Fuel and exhaust systems 4•7

10.4b Ford VV carburettor components

A Top cover B Manual choke C Lever housing D Choke cable bracket E Auto-choke* F Bi-metal housing* G Control diaphragm cover H Control diaphragm J Accelerator pump diaphragm

K Accelerator pump cover L Progressive throttle cam M Mixture screw N Anti-dieseling valve P Idle speed screw Q Needle valve

R Float bracket * Certain overseas models only (manual choke for UK models)

10.4c Ford VV carburettor modified accelerator pump

A Pump cover B Spring C Metal plate

D Diaphragm E Spacer F Vacuum passage

Page 70

4•8 Fuel and exhaust systems

10.4d Weber 2V carburettor components

A Electric choke housing B Choke pull-down diaphragm unit C Upper body D Inlet filter E Accelerator discharge tube F Anti-dieseling solenoid G Mixture screw

H Accelerator pump unit I Power valve diaphragm unit J Throttle plates K Secondary throttle spindle L Fast idle adjuster M Float N Idle speed adjusting screw

O Combined emulsion tube, air

correction and main jets P Idle jets Q Fuel return correction R Needle valve S Needle valve housing T Rubber seal

Page 71

Fuel and exhaust systems 4•9

10.4e Weber 2V DFTM carburettor components

A Manual choke unit B Choke vacuum pull-down C Secondary idle jet D Secondary venturi vacuum unit E Idle speed adjustment screw

F Idle mixture adjustment screw G Accelerator pump assembly H Throttle kicker J Power valve diaphragm K Float

L Primary emulsion tube M Primary idle jet N Needle valve P Fuel inlet filter Q Secondary emulsion tube

10.4f Weber 2V DFTM carburettor throttle kicker assembly

A Return spring B Diaphragm

Page 72

4•10 Fuel and exhaust systems

10.4g Weber 2V TLD carburettor components

A Emulsion tubes B Air correction jets C Automatic choke assembly D Choke vacuum pull-down diaphragm

E Main jets F Secondary venturi vacuum unit G Power valve diaphragm H Accelerator pump diaphragm

J Idle mixture adjustment screw L Needle valve M Anti-run-on solenoid valve N Fuel inlet filter

Page 73

Fuel and exhaust systems 4•11

10.4h Weber (1V) TLM carburettor components

A Upper body (top cover) B Choke mechanism C Accelerator pump D Accelerator pump discharge tube

E Idle speed screw F Throttle valve block G Fast idle speed screw H Throttle valve plate spindle

J Anti-run-on solenoid valve K Power valve assembly L Float M Mixture screw

Page 74

11 Ford 1V carburettor -

adjustment

1 Before carrying out the following adjustments ensure that all other engine variables ie. contact breaker points gap, ignition timing, spark plug gap, valve clearances etc, have been checked and, where necessary, adjusted to their specified settings. The air cleaner must be fitted during adjustments.

Idle speed

2 Refer to Chapter 1, Section 10.

Idle mixture

3 Refer to Chapter 1, Section 11.

Fast idle

4 Check and adjust the slow idle speed, then remove the air cleaner unit and check the choke plate pull-down, below. 5 With the engine warmed up, hold the choke plate fully open, operate the choke linkage as far as possible (about 1/3 of its travel) and check the fast idle speed. 6 To adjust the fast idle, bend the tag the required amount (see illustration).

Choke plate pull-down

7 Rotate the choke lever on the carburettor until the choke plate is fully closed. 8 Open the choke plate against the spring pressure up to its stop, then insert a gauge rod or twist drill of the specified size, as shown (see illustration). Bend the adjusting tag as necessary to give the correct dimension between the choke plate and the carburettor.

Accelerator pump stroke

9 Unscrew the throttle speed screw until it clears the linkage. 10 Depress the accelerator pump diaphragm plunger fully and then check the clearance between the end of the plunger and the operating lever (see illustration) using a gauge rod or twist drill of the specified skew. 11 If necessary, bend the operating rod at the U-bend to give the correct clearance. Reset the idle speed.

12 Ford 1V carburettor -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 Open the bonnet, disconnect the earth lead from the battery and remove the air cleaner. 2 Pull off the retaining clip and prise the throttle cable off the throttle lever ball. 3 Slacken the inner choke cable clamp screw and prise out the outer cable retaining clip. Free the choke cable from the carburettor. 4 Pull off the distributor vacuum pipe and the fuel vent pipe. 5 If a crimped type clamp is fitted to the fuel inlet pipe, it should be cut off (see illustration) and a screw type clamp fitted. If a screw type clamp is fitted, slacken the screw, then pull off the fuel feed pipe. 6 Remove the two nuts that secure the carburettor flange and remove the nuts and spring washers. 7 Carefully lift away the carburettor and its gasket, remembering that the float chamber is still full of petrol.

Refitting

8 Refitting is the reverse of this procedure noting the following points:

a) Remove all traces of the old carburettor

gasket, clean the mating flanges and fit a new gasket.

b) Check for correct adjustment of the

throttle and choke cables.

13 Ford VV carburettor -

adjustment

1 The following adjustments can be carried out without having to remove the carburettor from the engine. The procedure must be carried out with the radiator cooling fan in operation. 2 To keep the fan running during the adjustment procedure, disconnect the wiring multi-plug from the thermal switch (located in the thermostat housing) and bridge the two contacts in the plug with a short length of wire. Disconnect the wire and refit the multiplug on completion of the adjustments. Make sure that the engine and ignition are switched off when connecting and disconnecting the bridging wire.

Idle speed

3 Refer to Chapter 1, Section 10.

Idle mixture

4 Refer to Chapter 1, Section 11.

Choke pull down/fast idle

5 This semi-automatic unit in the choke housing controls the air fuel mixture under warm-up conditions, when the engine is under light load or cruise conditions. The checking and adjustment of this unit is best entrusted to your Ford dealer.

14 Ford VV carburettor throttle

damper - removal, refitting

and adjustment

Removal

1 Certain later models are fitted with a throttle damper mounted on a bracket on the side of the carburettor to allow progressive closure of the throttle linkage (see illustration). 2 To remove the damper, remove the air cleaner, slacken the locknut and remove the damper from its bracket.

Refitting

3 Refit the damper by screwing it into place in the bracket, then adjust the unit as follows.

4•12 Fuel and exhaust systems

11.6 Hold open choke plate (B) and adjust fast idle tag (A) - Ford 1V carburettor

11.10 Insert twist drill (A) and bend U-link arrowed (B) - Ford 1V carburettor

12.5 Cutting off a crimped type fuel hose clip

11.8 Insert twist drill (A) and adjust pull down tag (B) - Ford 1V carburettor

Page 75

Adjustment

4 Refer to Chapter 1, Section 16.

15 Ford VV carburettor manual

choke unit - removal and

refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Remove the air cleaner. 3 Remove the retaining clip, slacken the

clamp bolt and disconnect the choke cable from the linkage and support bracket. 4 Using a Torx type key or socket bit, undo the three screws and detach the lever housing from the choke unit (see illustration). 5 Undo the three Torx screws and detach the choke unit from the carburettor.

Refitting

6 Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal, but use new gaskets between the choke unit and carburettor, and between the lever housing and choke unit. Ensure that the latter is positioned as shown (see illustration) and make sure that the spring-loaded arm in the lever housing locates over the linkage in the choke unit. 7 Reconnect the choke cable and refit the air cleaner, then reconnect the battery.

16 Ford VV carburettor -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 Remove the air cleaner. 2 Disconnect the choke cable from the

operating lever on the choke housing. 3 Pull off the electrical lead from the anti-runon valve on the carburettor.

4 Disconnect the distributor vacuum pipe. 5 Disconnect the throttle cable by pulling the

spring clip to release the end fitting from the ball-stud and then unscrewing the cable bracket fixing bolt. 6 Disconnect and plug the fuel inlet hose from the carburettor. If crimped type hose clips are used, cut them off and fit screw type clips at reassembly. 7 Unscrew the two carburettor mounting flange nuts and lift the carburettor from the inlet manifold. Remove the idle speed screw if necessary for access to the nut.

Refitting

8 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but make sure that a new flange gasket is used on perfectly clean mating surfaces.

9 Reconnect and adjust the choke cable.

17 Weber 2V carburettor -

adjustment

Idle speed/mixture

1 Refer to Chapter 1, Sections 10 and 11 according to model.

Fast idle

2 Open the bonnet and remove the air cleaner. 3 Run the engine until the normal running temperature is reached. Hold the throttle partly open, then close the choke plates by hand and release the throttle (see

illustration). 4 The throttle mechanism will hold the choke

mechanism at the fast idle position. Release the choke plates, which should return to the open position. 5 If the choke plates do not fully open, then either the engine has not fully warmed up, or the electric choke is faulty. 6 Without touching the throttle, start the engine and check the fast idle speed against the figure given in the Specifications. 7 To adjust the fast idle speed, slacken the locknut and screw the adjuster (see

illustration) in or out as required. 8 Tighten the locknut and refit the air cleaner.

Fuel and exhaust systems 4•13

15.6 Choke lever housing fitting details Ford VV carburettor

17.7 Fast idle adjustment showing choke plates open (A) and fast idle adjustment screw (B) - Weber 2V carburettor

17.3 Choke pull-down/fast idle setting - Weber 2V carburettor

A Hold choke plate shut B Hold throttle partly open

15.4 Choke unit retaining screws Ford VV carburettor

14.1 Throttle damper arrangement later model Ford VV carburettor

Page 76

Vacuum pull-down

9 With the air cleaner removed, pull the wire off the electric choke. 10 Remove the three retaining screws and lift off the automatic choke outer housing with the bi-metallic spring. Lift off the internal heat shield. 11 Fit an elastic band to the choke plate lever, and position it to hold the choke plates closed (see illustration). Open the throttle to allow the choke plates to close fully. 12 Using a suitable screwdriver, push the choke diaphragm open, then measure the clearance between the choke plate and the carburettor body, using a gauge rod or twist drill of the specified size (see illustration). 13 To adjust the opening, remove the plug and screw the adjusting screw in or out as required.

14 Adjust the choke phasing, as shown below. 15 Refit the heat shield and the choke

housing. Reconnect the electric choke wire and the air cleaner.

Choke phasing

16 Adjust the vacuum pull-down as shown above. 17 Hold the throttle partly open, and position the fast idle adjusting screw on the centre step of the fast idle cam. Release the throttle to hold the cam in this position.

18 Push the choke plates down until the cam jams against the fast idle screw (see

illustration). 19 Measure the clearance between the

choke plate and the carburettor body, using a gauge rod or twist drill of the specified size. 20 Bend the tag (see illustration) as required, to give the correct clearance. 21 Refit the heat shield and the choke housing. Reconnect the electric choke wire and the air cleaner.

18 Weber 2V carburettor -

removal and refitting

The procedure is very similar to that described for the Ford 1V carburettor, except that the manual choke cable is replaced by an electric choke wire and four nuts are used to secure the unit to the manifold.

19 Weber 2V DFTM carburettor

- adjustment

cleaner must be fitted, the engine must be at normal operating temperature and the radiator cooling fan must be running. 2 To keep the fan running during the adjustment procedure, disconnect the wiring multi-plug from the thermal switch (located in the thermostat housing) and bridge the two contacts in the plug with a short length of wire.

Idle speed

3 Refer to Chapter 1, Section 10.

Idle mixture

4 Refer to Chapter 1, Section 11.

Fast idle

5 Adjust the engine idle speed and mixture settings, then switch off the engine. Leave the tachometer connected from the previous operation. 6 Undo the four bolts securing the air cleaner to the carburettor, disconnect the hot and cold air inlet hoses and lift off the air cleaner. Position the air cleaner clear of the carburettor, but leave the crankcase breather hoses and the vacuum supply hose connected. 7 Pull the choke knob fully out and start the engine.

8 Using a finger on the linkage lever as shown (see illustration), hold the choke plate open

and note the fast idle speed.

4•14 Fuel and exhaust systems

17.11 Hold choke open with a rubber band (B) and push the diaphragm rod (A) with a small screwdriver (C) -

Weber 2V carburettor

17.20 Choke phase adjusting tag (arrowed) - Weber 2V carburettor

17.18 Checking the choke phasing -

Weber 2V carburettor

A Fast idle cam B Fast idle adjuster screw

17.12 Insert a twist drill (A) and adjust pull-down (B) Weber 2V carburettor

19.8 Fast idle speed adjustment Weber 2V DFTM carburettor

A Choke valve plate held open B Fast idle adjustment screw

Page 77

9 If adjustment is necessary turn the fast idle adjusting screw until the specified speed is obtained. 10 On completion refit the air cleaner and disconnect the tachometer.

Throttle kicker

11 Remove the air cleaner. Plug the vacuum supply from the manifold. 12 Have the engine at normal operating temperature with a tachometer connected in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. 13 With the engine running and the idle speed and mixture correctly adjusted, manually operate the throttle kicker by lifting the operating lever upwards. Note the increase in engine speed. 14 If the increased speed is outside the figure given in the Specifications, remove the tamperproof plug from the top of the kicker body and adjust the unit to give the specified speed. 15 Remove the tachometer and refit the air cleaner on completion.

20 Weber 2V DFTM carburettor

- removal and refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Remove the air cleaner. 3 Disconnect the electrical leads at the solenoids (see illustrations).

4 Disconnect the vacuum pipe at the

carburettor outlet. 5 Disconnect the throttle cable by releasing the spring clip securing the end fitting to the ball-stud on the linkage, and then unscrewing the cable bracket fixing bolts. 6 Release the choke cable from the linkage lever and move the bracket, with both cables attached, to one side. 7 Disconnect the fuel inlet and return hoses, noting their respective positions, and plug them after removal. If crimped type clips are used, cut them off and use new screw type clips when refitting. 8 Undo the four mounting flange nuts and washers and withdraw the carburettor from the manifold.

Refitting

9 Refitting is the reversal of removal, but use a new flange gasket and ensure that the mating surfaces are perfectly clean. Reconnect the choke and throttle cables and refit the air cleaner, then adjust the idle speed and mixture settings.

21 Weber 2V TLD carburettor -

adjustment

1 Before carrying out the following adjustments ensure that all other engine variables, ie, ignition timing, spark plug gap, etc, have been checked and where necessary adjusted to their specified settings. The air cleaner must be fitted, the engine must be at normal operating temperature and the radiator cooling fan must be running. 2 To keep the fan running during the adjustment procedure, disconnect the wiring multi-plug from the thermal switch (located in the thermostat housing) and bridge the two contacts in the plug with a short length of wire.

Idle speed

3 Refer to Chapter 1, Section 10.

Idle mixture

4 Refer to Chapter 1, Section 11.

Fast idle

5 Remove the air cleaner. 6 Have the engine at normal operating

temperature with a tachometer connected in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. 7 With the engine stopped, open the throttle linkage slightly by hand and close the choke plate until the fast idle adjusting screw lines up with the third (middle) step of the fast idle cam (see illustration). Release the throttle so that the fast idle screw rests on the cam. Release the choke plate. 8 Without touching the throttle pedal, start the engine by just turning the key. 9 Note the fast idle speed and if adjustment is necessary, turn the fast idle adjusting screw until the specified speed is obtained. 10 On completion refit the air cleaner and disconnect the tachometer.

Automatic choke unit

11 Remove the air cleaner. 12 Release any pressure in the cooling

system by loosening the pressure cap on the expansion tank (protect the hands using a cloth if the engine is hot), then disconnect the water inlet and outlet hoses at the automatic choke unit. Clamp the hoses or position them with their ends facing upwards to minimise coolant leakage. 13 Undo the three screws and detach the choke bi-metal coil housing, followed by the internal heat shield. 14 Fit a rubber band to the choke plate lever, open the throttle to allow the choke plate to close, and then secure the band to keep the plate closed. 15 Using a screwdriver, push the diaphragm open to its stop and measure the clearance between the lower edge of the choke plate and the air horn, using a twist drill or other gauge rod (see illustration). Where the clearance is outside that specified, remove the tamperproof plug from the diaphragm housing and turn the screw, now exposed, in or out as necessary.

Fuel and exhaust systems 4•15

20.3b Back bleed solenoid Weber 2V DFTM carburettor

21.15 Choke vacuum pull-down

adjustment - Weber 2V TLD carburettor

A Twist drill B Diaphragm held fully open C Adjusting screw

21.7 Fast idle speed adjustment Weber 2V TLD carburettor

A Fast idle cam B Fast idle adjusting screw positioned

on third step of cam

20.3a Electrical connections Weber 2V DFTM carburettor

Page 78

16 Fit a new diaphragm housing tamperproof plug and remove the rubber band. 17 Refit the heat shield, making sure that the locating peg is correctly engaged in the notch in the housing. 18 Place the bi-metal coil housing in position, with the coil engaged with the slot in the choke lever which projects through the cutout in the heat shield. 19 Screw in the retaining screws finger tight, and then rotate the housing to set the housing mark opposite the dot punch mark on the choke body (see illustration). Secure the housing. 20 Reconnect the hoses and refit the air cleaner. 21 Check and if necessary top-up the cooling system.

22 Weber 2V TLD carburettor

automatic choke unit -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 Remove the air cleaner. 2 Release any pressure in the cooling system

by loosening the pressure cap, then detach the water inlet and outlet hoses at the automatic choke unit. Clamp the hoses or position them with their ends facing upwards to minimise coolant leakage. 3 Disconnect the lead at the anti-run-on valve solenoid. 4 Disconnect the fuel supply and return hoses at the carburettor. If crimped type hose clips are used, cut them off and use screw type clips at reassembly. 5 Undo the six carburettor upper body retaining screws and remove the upper body. Note that four of the screws are of the Torx type and a suitable key or socket bit will be needed for their removal. 6 With the upper body removed, undo the three screws and remove the choke bi-metal coil housing followed by the internal heat shield (see illustration).

7 Undo the three screws securing the choke housing to the upper body (see illustration), disconnect the link rod and remove the choke housing. 8 Undo the three screws and remove the vacuum pull-down housing cover, then withdraw the spring, diaphragm and operating rod assembly. 9 Make a note of the exact position of the choke mechanism return and tension springs, then undo the nut and remove the connecting rod, levers and link from the choke housing

(see illustration). 10 Clean and inspect all the parts for wear,

damage, cracking or distortion. Pay particular attention to the condition of the pull-down diaphragm and the choke housing O-ring seal. Renew any parts as necessary.

Refitting

11 Reassemble the choke mechanism connecting rod, levers, link and springs. Secure the assembly with the retaining nut. 12 Locate the vacuum pull-down diaphragm and operating rod in the choke housing and with the diaphragm lying flat on the housing face, refit the cover and secure with the three screws.

13 Locate the O-ring seal on the choke housing, then connect the housing to the link rod. 14 Position the housing on the carburettor upper body and secure with the three screws.

15 Refit the upper body to the carburettor. 16 Before refitting the bi-metal coil housing,

adjust the vacuum pull-down (see unit adjustment), then fit the coil housing.

23 Weber 2V TLD carburettor -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Remove the air cleaner. 3 If the engine is still hot, depressurise the

cooling system by carefully releasing the pressure cap. 4 Disconnect the coolant inlet and outlet hoses at the automatic choke and clamp or plug their ends to prevent coolant loss. 5 Disconnect the throttle cable by releasing the spring clip securing the end fitting to the ball-stud, then unscrewing the cable bracket fixing bolts.

4•16 Fuel and exhaust systems

21.19 Bi-metal coil housing and choke body alignment marks -

Weber 2V TLD carburettor

A Dot punch mark B Choke alignment mark on housing

22.7 Vacuum pull-down housing (A) and choke housing retaining screws (B) -

Weber 2V TLD carburettor

22.9 Exploded view of automatic choke - Weber 2V TLD carburettor

A Operating link B Fast idle cam return spring C Spindle sleeve D Connecting rod and lever

E Pull-down link F Actuating lever G O-ring seal

22.6 Choke bi-metal coil housing retaining screws - Weber 2V TLD carburettor

Page 79

6 Disconnect the fuel inlet and return hoses,

noting their respective positions, and plug them after removal. If crimped type clips are used, cut them off and use screw type clips when refitting.

7 Disconnect the fuel inlet and return hoses. 8 Disconnect the electrical lead at the anti-

run-on valve solenoid. 9 Using a suitable Torx type key or socket bit, unscrew the four mounting through-bolts from the top of the carburettor and remove the unit from the manifold (see illustration).

Refitting

10 Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal but use a new flange gasket and ensure that the mating faces are perfectly clean. On completion, top-up the cooling system and check the idle speed and mixture settings.

24 Weber (1V) TLM carburettor

- adjustment

Idle speed

1 Refer to Chapter 1, Section 10.

Idle mixture

2 Refer to Chapter 1, Section 11.

Fast idle

3 Have the engine at normal operating temperature with a reliable tachometer connected in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions, and the air cleaner removed. 4 Hold the choke valve plate fully open with the fingers, and then operate the choke lever on the carburettor. If the engine fast idle speed is not as specified, turn the fast idle screw (see illustration). This will be sealed with liquid sealant, and the screw should be locked in a similar manner on completion of adjustment.

25 Weber (1V) TLM carburettor

- removal and refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Remove the air cleaner.

3 Release the cooling system pressure cap

and then disconnect the coolant hoses from the carburettor. Tie the ends of the hoses up as high as they will go to avoid loss of coolant.

4 Disconnect and plug the fuel hose (see illustration). 5 Disconnect the electrical lead from the fuel

cut-off solenoid valve. 6 Disconnect the vacuum and vent hoses from the carburettor. 7 Disconnect the throttle and choke operating cables. 8 Remove the four screws (two Torx type) and lift the carburettor from the inlet manifold.

Refitting

9 When refitting the carburettor, use a new flange gasket and adjust the choke cable to the correct setting.

26 Exhaust and inlet manifolds -

removal and refitting

Refer to Chapter 2 for removal and refitting

of the manifolds.

27 Exhaust system - renewal

and repair

Renewal

1 The exhaust system fitted to all models is of two-piece construction but there are three different system types fitted, according to model type (see illustration).

Fuel and exhaust systems 4•17

25.4 Fuel supply and return hose

arrangement with calibrated T-piece -

Weber (1V) TLM carburettor

A Fuel supply hose

27.1 Exhaust systems

A OHV models B CVH models C XR2 models

24.4 Fast idle adjustment screw Weber (1V) TLM carburettor

23.9 Carburettor mounting through-bolts Weber 2V TLD carburettor

Page 80

2 The system can be renewed in sections, as coupling sleeves are supplied so that an old section can be cut out and a new one inserted without the need to renew the entire system at the same time. 3 It is recommended, when working on an exhaust system, that the complete assembly be removed from under the vehicle by releasing the downpipe from the manifold and unhooking the flexible suspension hangers

(see illustration). 4 Assemble the complete system, but do not

fully tighten the joint clips until the system is back in the vehicle. Use a new exhaust manifold/flange gasket and check that the flexible mountings are in good order. 5 Set the silencer and expansion box in their correct attitudes in relation to the rest of the system before finally tightening the joint clips. 6 Check that with reasonable deflection in either direction, the exhaust does not knock against any adjacent components.

Repair

7 Effective repairs to exhaust system can be made by using a proprietary repair kit.

28 Emission control

components - maintenance

and testing

1 In view of the special test equipment and procedures there is little that can be done in the way of maintenance and testing for the emissions control system. In the event of a suspected malfunction of the system, check the security and condition of all vacuum and electrical connections then, if applicable, refer to the following paragraphs for further information.

2 In addition, whenever working on any of these systems, make a careful note of any electrical or vacuum line connections before removing, to ensure correct refitting.

Positive crankcase ventilation (PCV)

3 Remove all the hoses and components of the system and clean them in paraffin or petrol. Ensure that all hoses are free from any obstruction and are in a serviceable condition. Where applicable, similarly clean the crankcase breather cap and shake it dry. Renew parts as necessary then refit them to the car.

Thermostatically-controlled air cleaner

4 Refer to Chapter 1, Section 29.

29 Emission control

components - removal and

refitting

Spark delay/sustain valve

1 Disconnect the vacuum lines at the valve and remove the valve from the engine. 2 When refitting a spark delay valve it must be positioned with the black side (marked CARB) towards the carburettor and the coloured side (marked DIST) towards the distributor. When refitting a spark sustain valve the side marked VAC must be towards the carburettor and the side marked DIST towards the distributor (see illustration).

Ported vacuum switch

3 Remove the filler cap from the expansion tank to reduce pressure in the cooling system. If the engine is hot, remove the cap slowly using a rag to prevent scalding. 4 Disconnect the vacuum lines and, if necessary, the water hoses, then unscrew the valve from the inlet manifold or adapter. 5 When refitting the valve, note that the vacuum line from the carburettor is connected to the middle outlet on the PVS, the vacuum line from the spark delay valve (where fitted) is connected to the outlet nearest to the threaded end of the PVS, and the vacuum line from the spark sustain valve is connected to the outlet furthest from the threaded end of the PVS. 6 Reconnect the water hoses and, if necessary, top-up the cooling system.

Fuel trap

7 Disconnect the vacuum lines and remove the fuel trap from the engine. 8 When refitting, make sure that the fuel trap is positioned with the black side (marked CARB) towards the carburettor and the white side (marked DIST) towards the PVS (see illustration).

4•18 Fuel and exhaust systems

27.3 Exhaust system flexible hanger 29.8 Fuel trap is marked for direction of fitting

29.2 Spark sustain valve is marked for direction of fitting

A to PVS B to distributor

Page 81

General

System type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Battery, (negative earth) coil and distributor with contact breaker

Firing order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-2-4-3 (No 1 at timing cover end)

Ignition timing (initial)

1.0 litre (pre-1986) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12° BTDC

1.1 litre (pre-1986) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6° BTDC

Ignition timing (initial) for use with unleaded fuel

1.0 models up to 2/86* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12° BTDC

1.0 models from 2/86 to 8/86 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12° BTDC

1.1 models up to 2/86* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2° BTDC

1.1 models from 2/86-on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2° BTDC

*Fill with leaded fuel every 4th tankful

Distributor

Make . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bosch with drive by gear on camshaft

Automatic advance method . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mechanical and vacuum control

Rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Anti-clockwise (viewed from cap)

Condenser capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.20 ± 15% microfarad

Contact breaker points gap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.40 to 0.50 mm

Dwell angle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48° to 52°

Dwell variation (from idle to 2000 rpm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4° maximum

Dwell overlap (lobe-to-lobe variation) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3° maximum

Advance characteristics* at 2000 rpm (engine) no load: . . . . . . . . . . . . Mechanical Vacuum Total

1.0 litre (pre-1986) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . -1.0° to 4.0° 6° to 12° 5° to 16°

1.1 litre (pre-1986) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3° to 9° 13° to 21° 16° to 30°

*Crankshaft degrees; initial advance not included

Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1 Specifications

Coil

Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Low voltage with 1.5 ohm ballast resistor

Output . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 kV (minimum)

Secondary resistance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5000 to 9000 ohms

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 to 20 10 to 15

Distributor clamp pinch-bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 3

Distributor clamp plate bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Chapter 5 Part A:

Mechanical ignition system

Condenser - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9

Contact breaker gap - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3

Contact breaker points - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

Distributor - overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10

Distributor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

Distributor advance - checking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

Distributor vacuum unit - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1

Ignition lock cylinder - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11

Ignition timing - checking and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

Spark plugs, HT leads and distributor cap - inspection and

servicing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2

5A•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable for

novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Page 82

1 General information and

precautions

General information

A conventional ignition system is used on the 1.0 and 1.1 litre OHV models marketed in the UK before 1986. The system consists of a coil, a distributor with mechanical contact breaker, a ballast resistor and spark plugs. The distributor is mounted on the cylinder block and is driven from a skew gear on the camshaft. It incorporates both mechanical and vacuum advance capability.

The coil is mounted on the bulkhead panel and is of the oil-filled type. The ballast resistor is a grey coloured wire, built into the loom which runs between the ignition switch and the coil. Its purpose is to limit the battery voltage to the coil during normal running to seven volts. During starting, the ballast resistor is bypassed to give full battery voltage at the coil to facilitate quick starting of the engine.

The spark plugs are of small diameter and require a long reach 16 mm (

⁄ 8 in AF) socket to remove them instead of a conventional spark plug spanner; they are of the taper seat type.

The HT leads are of suppressed type, of carbon cored construction. Always pull them from the spark plugs by gripping the terminal rubber insulator, not the cable itself. The leads are numbered, No 1 being at the spark plug nearest the timing cover end of the engine.

Precautions

2 Spark plugs, HT leads and

distributor cap - inspection

and servicing

Refer to Chapter 1, Sections 12, 13 and 21.

3 Contact breaker gap -

adjustment

Refer to Chapter 1, Section 15.

4 Contact breaker points -

renewal

Refer to Chapter 1, Section 23.

5 Ignition timing - checking and

adjustment

Refer to Chapter 1, Section 15.

6 Distributor advance -

checking

1 A secondary use of a timing light is to check that the centrifugal and vacuum advance functions of the distributor are working. 2 The tests are not precise, as would be the case if sophisticated equipment were used, but will at least indicate the serviceability of the unit. 3 With the engine idling, timing light connected and vacuum pipe disconnected and plugged, increase the engine speed to 2000 rpm and note the approximate distance which the pulley mark moves out of alignment with the mark on the scale.

4 Reconnect the vacuum pipe to the distributor and repeat the test when for the same increase in engine speed, the alignment differential of the timing marks should be greater than previously observed. Refer to the Specifications for typical figures. 5 A further check of the vacuum advance can be made by removing the distributor cap after the engine has been switched off, disconnecting the distributor vacuum pipe at its suction end, and sucking the pipe. The suction should be sufficient to move the distributor baseplate slightly. 6 If these tests do not prove positive renew the vacuum unit. 7 Some models are equipped with a spark delay/sustain valve in the vacuum line from carburettor to distributor, the purpose of which is to delay vacuum advance under certain part throttle conditions. If such a valve is suspected of malfunctioning, it should be tested by substitution, or taken to a Ford dealer for specialised checking. The main effect of the valve is to reduce exhaust emission levels and it is unlikely that malfunction would have a noticeable effect on engine performance. 8 If a ported vacuum switch (PVS) is fitted in the vacuum line, its purpose is to bypass the spark sustain valve when normal engine operating temperature (as sensed by the temperature of the coolant flowing round the inlet manifold) has been reached.

7 Distributor - removal and

refitting

Removal

1 Remove the air cleaner unit. 2 Disconnect the leads from the spark plugs,

remove the distributor cap and place the cap with the leads to one side. 3 Disconnect the LT lead from the coil negative terminal and disconnect the distributor vacuum pipe. 4 Using a ring spanner or socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt, turn the crankshaft until No 1 piston is at TDC. Verify this by checking that the timing cover mark is aligned with the notch on the crankshaft pulley and that the rotor arm (contact end) is pointing to the No 1 spark plug lead contact in the distributor cap when fitted. Do not turn the crankshaft again until after the distributor has been refitted. 5 Mark the position of the rotor arm on the rim of the distributor body (see illustration). 6 Mark the position of the distributor body in relation to the cylinder block. 7 Remove the bolt which holds the distributor clamp plate to the cylinder block, do not remove the distributor by releasing the clamp pinch-bolt. 8 Withdraw the distributor.

Refitting

9 To install the original distributor, hold it over its hole in the cylinder block so that the mark

5A•2 Mechanical ignition system

Warning: The HT voltage generated by an ignition system is extremely high, and in certain

circumstances could prove fatal. Take care to avoid receiving electric shocks from the HT side of the ignition system. Do not handle HT leads, or touch the distributor or coil when the engine is running. If tracing faults in the HT circuit, use well insulated tools to manipulate live leads.

It is necessary to take extra care when working on the electrical system to avoid damage to semi-conductor devices and to avoid the risk of personal injury. In addition to the precautions given in the “Safety first!” Section at the beginning of this manual, take note of the following points when working on the system.

Always remove rings, watches, etc before working on the electrical system. Even with the battery disconnected, capacitive discharge could occur if a component live terminal is earthed through a metal object. This could cause a shock or nasty burn.

Do not reverse the battery connections. Components could be irreparably damaged.

If the engine is being started using jump leads and a slave battery, connect the batteries positive to positive and negative to negative. This also applies when connecting a battery charger.

Never disconnect the battery terminals, or alternator multi-plug connector, when the engine is running.

The battery leads and alternator multiplug must be disconnected before carrying out any electric welding on the car.

Never use an ohmmeter of the type incorporating a hand cranked generator for circuit or continuity testing.

Before disconnecting any wiring, or removing components, always ensure that the ignition is switched off.

After working on ignition system components, ensure that all wiring is correctly reconnected before reconnecting the battery or switching on the ignition.

Page 83

made before removal is aligned with the one on the cylinder block (No 1 piston still at TDC). 10 When the distributor is installed, the meshing of the drive and driven gears will cause the rotor arm to rotate in an anticlockwise direction. This must be anticipated by positioning the rotor arm a few degrees in advance of its final marked position. 11 Install the distributor and check that the rotor arm and distributor body marks are aligned with the marks made before removal. Tighten the clamp plate bolt. 12 If the distributor was removed without marking its position, or if a new distributor is

being fitted, install the distributor in the following way. 13 Set No 1 piston to TDC. To do this, remove No 1 spark plug and place the finger over the plug hole. Turn the crankshaft pulley bolt until compression can be felt, which indicates that No 1 piston is rising on its firing stroke. Continue turning until the timing marks for TDC are in alignment. 14 Hold the distributor over its hole in the cylinder block so that the vacuum unit is aligned with the engine oil dipstick guide tube. 15 Set the rotor arm to anticipate its rotation as the gears mesh on installation, remembering that the arm will turn in an anticlockwise direction and should take up a final position with its contact end opposite No 1 spark plug lead contact (as if the distributor cap is fitted). 16 Release the clamp plate pinch-bolt and install the distributor. Check that the body and rotor arm are correctly positioned, then swivel the clamp plate as necessary to be able to screw in the clamp plate bolt. Tighten the clamp plate pinch-bolt. 17 Fit the distributor cap and reconnect the HT and LT leads. 18 Check the timing and then reconnect the vacuum pipe to the distributor.

8 Distributor vacuum unit -

renewal

1 This will normally only be required if a new unit is to be fitted because a fault has been diagnosed in the old one. 2 Remove the distributor cap and the rotor arm. Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the unit. 3 Extract the circlip which holds the vacuum advance actuating rod to the pivot post. 4 Extract the two screws which hold the unit to the distributor body, tilt the unit downwards to release the actuating rod from the pivot post and then withdraw the unit. 5 Fitting is a reversal of removal, but apply a little grease to the pivot post. Fitting may be made easier if the distributor baseplate is rotated slightly with the fingers.

9 Condenser - renewal

1 If the condenser is suspected of being faulty, it may be removed and a new one fitted without having to remove the distributor. 2 Release the HT leads from the spark plugs, take off the distributor cap and place the cap and the leads to one side. Remove the rotor arm. 3 Disconnect the LT lead from the coil negative terminal. 4 Mark the position of the distributor body in relation to the clamp plate and then release the clamp plate pinch-bolt. 5 Turn the distributor approximately 120° in a clockwise direction to expose the condenser and extract its securing screw. Pull off its lead connecting block and remove the condenser.

6 Fitting is a reversal of removal. 7 Check the ignition timing on completion.

10 Distributor - overhaul

1 Dismantling of the distributor should not be taken beyond the renewal of components described in earlier Sections of this Chapter

(see illustration). 2 Internal components are not supplied as

spares. In the event of severe wear having taken place, obtain a new or reconditioned unit.

Mechanical ignition system 5A•3

10.1 Bosch distributor showing

components which are renewable

1 Vacuum supply

pipe 2 Distributor unit 3 Distributor clamp 4 Vacuum unit

5 Condenser 6 Contact breakers 7 Rotor arm 8 Distributor cap

7.5 Rotor arm (A) with rim alignment mark (B)

Page 84

11 Ignition lock cylinder -

removal and refitting

1 Disconnect the battery earth terminal, then remove the steering column lower shroud. 2 Insert the ignition key into the lock and turn to position 1. 3 Using a screwdriver, depress the cylinder retaining clip and withdraw the lock cylinder by pulling on the key (see illustration). 4 Refit by simply pushing the cylinder into position with the key held in position 1. 5 It should be noted that the steering column lock and tube are a combined unit and the lock cannot be renewed separately.

5A•4 Mechanical ignition system

11.3 Ignition lock cylinder removal

Page 85

General

System type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Battery, (negative earth), coil and distributor (breakerless electronic

ignition) incorporating electronic module

Firing order:

OHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-2-4-3 (No 1 at timing cover end)

CVH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-3-4-2 (No 1 at timing cover end)

Ignition timing (initial)

1.0 litre (2/86 to 8/86) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12° BTDC at idling speed

1.0 litre (8/86-on) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10° BTDC at idling speed

1.1 litre (1986-on) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6° BTDC at idling speed

1.3 and 1.4 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12° BTDC

Ignition timing (initial) for use with unleaded fuel

1.0 models from 8/86 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10° BTDC

1.1 models from 2/86 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2° BTDC

1.3 models up to 12/84* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8° BTDC

1.3 models from 12/84 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8° BTDC

1.4 models up to 1/87 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8° BTDC

1.4 models from 1/87 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8° BTDC

1.6 models up to 12/84* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8° BTDC

1.6 models from 12/84 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8° BTDC

*Fill with leaded fuel every 4th tankful

Distributor

Make:

OHV engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bosch

CVH engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bosch or Lucas

Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Breakerless

Automatic advance method:

1.0 and 1.1 litre (1986-on) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mechanical and vacuum

1.4 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mechanical and vacuum

All other models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ESC module

Drive:

1.0 and 1.1 litre (1986-on) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Skew gear on camshaft

All other models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dog on camshaft

Rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Anti-clockwise (viewed from top)

Dwell angle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Non-adjustable (governed by module)

Advance characteristics (total) at 2000 rpm (engine speed):

1.0 litre (1986-on) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5° to 15°

1.1 litre (1986-on) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16° to 28°

1.3 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18° to 34°

1.4 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18° to 30°

1.6 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17° to 30.2°

Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1 Specifications

Chapter 5 Part B:

Electronic ignition system

Distributor - overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

Distributor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3

General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1

Ignition amplifier module - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

Ignition lock cylinder - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

Ignition timing - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

Spark plugs, HT leads and distributor cap - inspection and

servicing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2

5B•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable for

novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Page 86

Coil

Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . High output breakerless ignition coil

Output (open circuit condition):

1.0 and 1.1 litre (1986-on) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 kV (minimum)

1.4 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 kV (minimum)

All other models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 kV (minimum)

Primary resistance:

1.0 and 1.1 litre (1986-on) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.13 to 1.33 ohms

All other models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.72 to 0.88 ohms

Secondary resistance:

1.0 and 1.1 litre (1986-on) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3500 to 6500 ohms

1.4 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4500 to 8600 ohms

All other models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4000 to 7000 ohms

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 20

Distributor mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 5

1 General information and

precautions

General information

Pre-1986 models

The electronic system fitted to Fiesta models manufactured before 1986 consists of a breakerless distributor driven from the end of the camshaft, an electronic amplifier module mounted on the bulkhead on the lefthand side, and a high output type ignition coil fitted next to the amplifier module on the bulkhead.

The breakerless distributor is of Bosch manufacture and is distinguishable from conventional systems by its blue distributor cap. The unit has no mechanical contact breaker or condenser, these components being replaced by a trigger wheel, a trigger coil and a stator. The action of the distributor is to provide a pulse to the electronic module which in turn actuates the ignition coil to ignite the fuel/air mixture via the HT leads and spark plugs.

The electronic amplifier module is a sealed unit located on the left-hand side of the engine compartment bulkhead. The function of the module is to sense the trigger pulse from the distributor and amplify its voltage sufficiently to operate the module’s output transistor. On receipt of this amplified voltage the module shuts off the ignition coil primary circuit allowing HT voltage to build up within the coil in the conventional manner and fire the appropriate spark plug via the distributor and HT leads. On completion of the firing cycle the primary circuit is then switched on again by the module and the cycle is repeated for the next cylinder.

The ignition coil operates on conventional principles but with a higher output voltage. The unit is rated at 8 volts and is supplied via a ballast resistor wire during normal running. When starting the engine the ballast resistor wire is bypassed and the coil receives full battery voltage. The coil used on electronic

breakerless systems is distinguished by a yellow label on the case.

The spark plugs used are the copper cored resistor type with a metric thread form. Only this type of plug is suitable for use in the electronic ignition system.

Repair and overhaul operations should be limited to those described in this Chapter as only the distributor cap, rotor arm, and HT leads are available as repair parts, all other items are sealed and only renewable as complete units. Should a fault in the system develop or be suspected, the advice of your dealer should be sought. Fault diagnosis procedures are lengthy and must follow a systematic approach using sophisticated test equipment. For these reasons fault diagnosis and repair are considered to be beyond the scope of the average owner.

1986 models onwards

From 1986 onwards, all Fiesta models are fitted with breakerless electronic ignition systems. 1.6 litre CVH models retain the same basic system as described above for the pre 1986 models, except that the electronic module is integral with the distributor. 1.0 and

1.1 litre OHV and 1.4 litre CVH models are equipped with a new system also incorporating an electronic module integral with the distributor. The new system operates in the following way.

The ignition system is divided into two circuits, low tension (primary) and high tension (secondary). The low tension circuit consists of the battery, ignition switch, primary coil windings, electronic amplifier module and the signal generating system inside the distributor. The signal generating system comprises the trigger coil, trigger wheel, stator, permanent magnets and stator pick-up. The high tension circuit consists of the secondary coil windings, the heavy ignition lead from the centre of the distributor cap to the coil, the rotor arm and the spark plug leads and spark plugs.

When the system is in operation, low tension voltage is changed in the coil into high tension voltage by the action of the electronic amplifier module in conjunction with the signal

generating system. As each of the trigger wheel teeth pass through the magnetic field created around the trigger coil in the distributor, a change in the magnetic field force (flux) is created which induces a voltage in the trigger coil. This voltage is passed to the electronic amplifier module which switches off the ignition coil primary circuit. This results in the collapse of the magnetic field in the coil which generates the high tension voltage. The high tension voltage is then fed via the carbon brush in the centre of the distributor cap to the rotor arm. The voltage passes across to the appropriate metal segment in the cap and via the spark plug lead to the spark plug where it finally jumps the spark plug gap to earth.

The distributor used on the electronic ignition system of OHV engines is of Bosch manufacture, whereas on CVH engines either a Bosch or Lucas unit may be used. Although the components of the signal generating system differ between the Bosch and Lucas distributors, the principles of operation of both are as just described. The distributor is driven by a skew gear from the camshaft on the OHV engine and by an offset dog on the end of the camshaft on CVH engines.

The ignition advance is a function of the distributor and is controlled both mechanically and by a vacuum-operated system. The mechanical governor mechanism consists of two weights which move out from the distributor shaft as the engine speed rises due to centrifugal force. As they move outwards they rotate the trigger wheel relative to the distributor shaft and so advance the spark. The weights are held in position by two light springs and it is the tension of the springs which is largely responsible for correct spark advancement.

The vacuum control consists of a diaphragm, one side of which is connected via a small bore hose to the carburettor, and the other side to the distributor. Depression in the inlet manifold and carburettor, which varies with engine speed and throttle position, causes the diaphragm to move, so moving the baseplate and advancing or retarding the spark. A fine degree of control is achieved by

5B•2 Electronic ignition system

Page 87

a spring in the diaphragm assembly. Additionally, one or more vacuum valves and temperature sensitive control valves may be incorporated in the vacuum line between inlet manifold or carburettor and the distributor. These control the duration of the vacuum felt at the distributor and are part of the vehicle emission control systems.

Precautions

General

It is necessary to take extra care when working on the electrical system to avoid damage to semi-conductor devices (diodes and transistors), and to avoid the risk of personal injury. In addition to the precautions given in the “Safety first!” Section at the beginning of this manual, take note of the following points when working on the system:

Do not reverse the battery connections. Components such as the alternator or any other having semi-conductor circuitry could be irreparably damaged.

If the engine is being started using jump leads and a slave battery, connect the batteries positive to positive and negative to negative. This also applies when connecting a battery charger.

Never disconnect the battery terminals, or alternator multi-plug connector, when the engine is running.

The battery leads and alternator multiplug must be disconnected before carrying out any electric welding on the car.

Never use an ohmmeter of the type incorporating a hand cranked generator for circuit or continuity testing.

Ignition and engine management systems

Engine management modules are very sensitive components, and certain precautions must be taken to avoid damage to the module when working on a vehicle equipped with an engine management system as follows.

When carrying out welding operations on the vehicle using electric welding equipment, the battery and alternator should be disconnected.

Although underbonnet-mounted modules will tolerate normal underbonnet conditions, they can be adversely affected by excess heat or moisture. If using welding equipment or pressure washing equipment in the vicinity of the module, take care not to direct heat, or jets of water or steam at the module. If this cannot be avoided, remove the module from the vehicle, and protect its wiring plug with a plastic bag.

Before disconnecting any wiring, or removing components, always ensure that the ignition is switched off.

On models with underbonnet-mounted modules, do not run the engine with the module detached from the body panel, as the body acts as an effective heat sink, and the module may be damaged due to internal overheating.

Do not attempt to improvise fault diagnosis procedures using a test lamp or multimeter, as irreparable damage could be caused to the module.

After working on ignition/engine management system components, ensure that all wiring is correctly reconnected before reconnecting the battery or switching on the ignition.

On some early Bosch distributors it is possible that with the distributor cap removed, if the engine is cranked, the cap securing clips may fall inward and jam the trigger wheel/vane, knocking it out of alignment. If this happens, the distributor will have to be renewed as the trigger wheel/vane cannot be repositioned. Care should therefore be taken not to crank the engine with the distributor cap removed. Later distributors have redesigned clips which eliminate the problem.

Ignition coil

The LT connections to the coil used with electronic ignition cannot be confused as the terminals are of different size. Never fit a coil from a conventional ignition system into an electronic ignition system otherwise the amplifier module may be damaged.

2 Spark plugs, HT leads and

distributor cap - inspection

and servicing

1 In general, the same information applies as is made in Section 2 of Chapter 5A. Note, however, that a different type of plug is used and that its electrode gap and tightening torque are different (see Chapter 1 Specifications). 2 Only remove plugs from the CVH engine when it is warm or cold - never when it is hot. 3 Note that the firing order on the CVH engine is different from the OHV engine.

3 Distributor - removal and

refitting

Pre-1986 models

Removal

1 The distributor is precisely positioned for

optimum ignition timing during production and marked accordingly with a punch mark on the distributor mounting flange and the cylinder head (see illustration). 2 Disconnect the HT leads from the spark plugs. 3 Disconnect the wiring harness multi-plug from the distributor. 4 Release the distributor cap retaining clips, lift off the cap and position it, with the HT leads, to one side (see illustration). 5 Unscrew and remove the two distributor flange mounting bolts and withdraw the distributor from the cylinder head. 6 Check the distributor spindle for side-toside movement. If excessive movement is found, the distributor must be renewed as it is not possible to obtain individual components for overhaul.

Refitting

7 Before refitting the distributor, check the

condition of the oil seal beneath the mounting flange and renew it if necessary.

Electronic ignition system 5B•3

3.4 Distributor cap removal3.1 Distributor and cylinder head

alignment marks (arrowed)

Warning: The HT voltage generated by an electronic ignition system is extremely

high, and in certain circumstances could prove fatal. Take care to avoid receiving electric shocks from the HT side of the ignition system. Do not handle HT leads, or touch the distributor or coil when the engine is running. If tracing faults in the HT circuit, use well insulated tools to manipulate live leads.

Warning: Never remove spark plugs from a CVH engine when it is hot.

Page 88

8 Hold the distributor so that the punch marks on the distributor body and the offset drive dog are in approximate alignment, then insert the distributor into its recess. 9 Check that the drive components have engaged and then rotate the distributor until the punch marks on flange and head are in alignment. Insert the bolts and tighten to the specified torque. 10 Reconnect all the disconnected components.

New unit

11 Where a new distributor is being installed,

its flange will obviously not have a punch mark and it must therefore be fitted in the following way. 12 Hold the distributor in approximately its fitted position and also ensure that the drive dog is in approximately the correct alignment to engage with the offset segments of the camshaft dog. 13 Locate the distributor on the cylinder head. When you are sure that the drive dogs are fully engaged, screw in the flange bolts so that they are not only positioned centrally in the flange slots, but still allow the distributor to be rotated stiffly.

14 Reconnect the distributor cap, the spark plug leads and the LT multi-plug. 15 Using a little quick-drying white paint, increase the contrast of the timing notch in the crankshaft pulley and the appropriate mark on the timing belt cover scale (see

illustration). 16 Connect a timing light (stroboscope) in

accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. 17 Start the engine, allow it to idle and point the timing light at the timing marks. They should appear stationary and in alignment. If they are not, rotate the distributor as necessary to bring them into line and then tighten one of the distributor bolts. 18 Switch off the engine, remove the timing light and then tighten all the distributor mounting bolts to the specified torque. 19 Punch mark the distributor flange at a point exactly opposite the mark on the cylinder head. Future installation can then be carried out as described in paragraphs 1 to 10 of this Section.

1.0 and 1.1 litre models - 1986 onwards

Removal

20 Disconnect the leads from the spark

plugs, spring back the retaining clips and lift off the distributor cap. 21 Disconnect the distributor LT wiring multiplug (see illustration) and the vacuum hose at the distributor vacuum unit. 22 Remove No 1 spark plug (nearest the crankshaft pulley). 23 Place a finger over the plug hole and turn the crankshaft in thermal direction of rotation (clockwise viewed from the crankshaft pulley end) until pressure is felt in No 1 cylinder. This indicates that the piston is commencing its compression stroke. The crankshaft can be turned with a spanner on the pulley bolt. 24 Refer to the Specifications and look up the ignition timing setting for the engine being worked on.

25 Continue turning the crankshaft until the notch on the pulley is aligned with the correct setting on the scale located just above and to the right of the pulley. The “O” mark on the scale represents top dead centre (TDC) and the raised projections to the left of TDC are in increments of 4° BTDC (see illustration). 26 Check that the rotor arm is pointing to the notch on the rim of the distributor body (see

illustration). 27 Make a mark on the distributor body and

a corresponding mark on the cylinder block to aid refitting. 28 Undo the bolt securing the distributor clamp plate to the cylinder block, then withdraw the distributor from its location. As the distributor is removed, the rotor arm will move a few degrees clockwise. Note the new position of the rotor arm and make an alignment mark on the distributor body rim.

Refitting

29 Before installing the distributor make sure

that the crankshaft is still positioned as previously described. If a new distributor is being fitted, transfer the markings made during removal to the new unit.

5B•4 Electronic ignition system

3.15 Ignition timing marks - pre 1986

3.25 Ignition timing marks - 1986 on

A Crankshaft pulley notch B Timing cover scale

3.26 Rotor arm in alignment with distributor body rim notch

3.21 The distributor LT wiring multi-plug

Page 89

30 Hold the distributor over its hole in the

cylinder block, with the mark made on the distributor body aligned with the mark made on the cylinder block. 31 Position the rotor arm so that it points to the mark made on the distributor rim after removal, and push the distributor fully home. As the skew gears mesh, the rotor arm will move anti-clockwise and should align with the manufacturer’s mark on the distributor rim. 32 With the distributor in place, turn the body slightly if necessary so that the arms of the trigger wheel and stator are aligned, then refit and tighten the clamp plate bolt. 33 Reconnect the LT wiring multi-plug and vacuum hose, then refit the distributor cap, spark plug and plug leads. 34 Adjust the ignition timing.

1.4 litre models

35 The procedure is the same as described in paragraphs 1 to 19 but additionally, disconnect the vacuum pipe at the distributor vacuum unit. When refitting the distributor, leave the vacuum pipe disconnected and plug its end when setting the distributor position. Refit the pipe on completion.

4 Distributor - overhaul

Note: Ensure that replacement parts are readily available before carrying out any overhaul or repair work on the distributor.

1.0 and 1.1 litre models - 1986 onwards

1 Remove the distributor from the engine. 2 Remove the rotor arm (see illustration). 3 Extract the circlip securing the vacuum unit

rod to the baseplate pivot post. 4 Undo the two vacuum unit retaining screws, tip the unit to release the rod from the pivot post and withdraw it from the distributor body. 5 Undo the two electronic amplifier module retaining screws and detach the module (see

illustration). 6 This is the limit of dismantling that can be

undertaken. Should the distributor be worn or unserviceable in any other respect, renewal of the complete unit will be necessary. 7 Reassembly is the reversal of dismantling. Lubricate the baseplate pivot post with a high-melting-point grease and apply heat sink compound, available from Ford parts dealers, to the back of the amplifier module before refitting.

Bosch distributor (1.4 litre models)

8 Remove the distributor from the engine. 9 Remove the rotor arm and where fitted the plastic shield (see illustration). 10 Undo the two screws securing the

vacuum unit to the side of the distributor body (see illustration). Tip the unit to release the rod from the baseplate pivot post and withdraw it from the distributor. 11 Undo the two screws securing the electronic amplifier module and remove the module (see illustration). 12 This is the limit of dismantling that can be undertaken. Should the distributor be worn or unserviceable in any other respect, renewal of the complete unit will be necessary. 13 Reassembly is the reversal of dismantling. Lubricate the baseplate pivot post with a high-melting-point grease and apply heat sink compound, available from Ford parts dealers, to the back of the amplifier module before fitting.

Lucas distributor (1.4 litre models)

14 Remove the distributor from the engine. 15 Remove the rotor arm. 16 Undo the two electronic amplifier

retaining screws and remove the amplifier.

Electronic ignition system 5B•5

4.5 Electronic amplifier module retaining screws

4.11 Removing the amplifier module4.10 Vacuum unit left-hand retaining

screw

4.9 Removing the rotor arm from the distributor

4.2 Electronic distributor components

A Trigger wheel B Stator C Magnet D Trigger coil E Rotor arm F LT multi-plug

Page 90

17 Undo the three screws and separate the two halves of the distributor body (see

illustration). 18 Withdraw the plastic spacer ring from the

body upper half. 19 Withdraw the rubber seal, then pull the connection off the trigger coil terminals (see illustration). Note the fitted direction of the connector to aid refitting. 20 Tip the trigger coil up and remove it from the body upper half. 21 Extract the stator retaining circlip and the upper shim (see illustration).

22 Lift out the stator and the lower shim. 23 Slacken the vacuum unit retaining screw and remove the vacuum unit (see illustration). 24 This is the limit of dismantling that can be

undertaken. Should the distributor be worn or unserviceable in any other respect, renewal of the complete unit will be necessary. 25 Reassembly is the reversal of dismantling. Lubricate the vacuum unit peg with a highmelting-point grease and apply heat sink compound, available from Ford dealers, to the back of the amplifier module before refitting.

5 Ignition timing - adjustment

1.0, 1.1 and 1.4 litre models 1986 onwards

1 On 1.0 and 1.1 litre models the procedure is the same as described in Chapter 5A but ignore all references to dwell angle checking, as this is not applicable to electronic ignition distributors. 2 On 1.4 litre models refer to the procedure contained in Section 3, paragraphs 1 to 19, but note that the distributor vacuum pipe must be disconnected and plugged during the checking operation.

Adjustments for unleaded fuel

3 In order to operate vehicles on 95 RON unleaded petrol, the ignition timing may need to be retarded to avoid pinking. 4 Ignition timing values for use with unleaded petrol are given in Specifications.

6 Ignition amplifier module -

renewal

1 The ignition amplifier cannot be repaired and, if known to be defective, must be renewed as a unit. The vacuum advance characteristics of the module can be checked, but this is a task best entrusted to your Ford dealer. 2 To remove the module unit first disconnect the battery earth lead. 3 Detach the wiring connector from the module by pulling on the connector, not the leads. 4 Detach the vacuum hose from the module, undo and remove the single retaining screw and remove the module. 5 Refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure.

7 Ignition lock cylinder -

removal and refitting

Refer to Chapter 5A, Section 11.

5B•6 Electronic ignition system

4.17 Separating the distributor body halves

4.23 The distributor vacuum unit

A Circlip B Upper shim C Stator D Lower shim

4.21 The distributor stator components

4.19 Rubber seal and trigger coil connector (A)

Page 91

System type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12V negative earth, belt-driven alternator, pre-engaged starter motor

Battery

Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12V, lead-acid

Charge condition:

12.5V or above . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Satisfactory

Below 12.5V . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Recharge

Bosch alternator

Rated output (13.5V at 6000 rpm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45A (K1-45A) or 55A (K1-55A)

Maximum continuous speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15000 rpm

Minimum brush length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.0 mm

Regulator voltage at 4000 rpm (3 to 7A load) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13.7 to 14.6 volts

Stator winding resistance (ohms/phase) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.09 to 0.099 (K1-45A) or 0.07 to 0.077 (K1-55A)

Rotor winding resistance at 20°C (ohms) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.40 to 3.74 (K1-45A and K1-55A)

Lucas (type B) alternator

Rated output (13.5V at 6000 rpm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45A (A133/45) or 55A (A133/55)

Maximum continuous speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 000 rpm

Minimum brush length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.0 mm

Regulator voltage at 4000 rpm (3 to 7A load) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13.7 to 14.6 volts

Stator winding resistance (ohms/phase) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.285 to 0.305* (A133/45) or 0.088 to 0.108† (A133/45) or 0.203 (A133/55)

Rotor winding resistance at 20°C (ohms) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.04 to 3.36 (A133/45 and A133/55)

*Lucas Delta-type winding †Lucas Star-type winding

Lucas (type D) alternator

Rated output (13.5V at 6000 rpm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45A or 55A

Maximum continuous speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 000 rpm

Minimum brush length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.0 mm

Regulator voltage at 4000 rpm (3 to 7A load) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13.7 to 14.6 volts

Stator winding resistance (ohms/phase) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.229 to 0.254

Rotor winding resistance at 20°C (ohms) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.04 to 3.36 (A127/45 and A127/55)

Motorola alternator

Rated output (13.5V at 6000 rpm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45A (SD-45)

Maximum continuous speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 000 rpm

Minimum brush length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.0 mm

Regulator voltage at 4000 rpm (3 to 7A load) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13.7 to 14.6 volts

Stator winding resistance (ohms/phase) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.23 to 0.33 (SD-45)

Rotor winding resistance at 20°C (ohms) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.8 to 4.2 (SD-45)

Mitsubishi alternator

Minimum brush length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.0 mm

Chapter 5 Part C:

Starting and charging systems

Alternator - testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

Alternator - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

Alternator brushes and regulator - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

Alternator drivebelt - removal, refitting and tensioning . . . . . . . . . . . .5

Battery - maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3

Battery - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2

General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1

Starter motor - brush renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10

Starter motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Starter motor - testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9

5C•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable for

novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Page 92

Drivebelt tension

Using a belt tension gauge:

CVH engine:

New belt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 400 to 500N (90 to 113 lbf)

Used belt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 300 to 400N (68 to 90 lbf)

OHV engine:

New belt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 350 to 450N (79 to 101 lbf)

Used belt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 250 to 350N (56 to 79 lbf)

Using finger pressure:

All types . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 mm deflection on longest run

A used belt is one which has been in operation for at least 10 minutes

Bosch long frame and Cajavec starter motors

Rating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.85 kW or 0.95 kW

Number of brushes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Minimum brush length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.0 mm

Minimum commutator diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32.8 mm

Armature endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.3 mm

Bosch short frame starter motor

Rating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.7 kW or 0.8 kW

Number of brushes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Minimum brush length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.0 mm

Minimum commutator diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32.8 mm

Armature endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.3 mm

Lucas starter motor

Rating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8M90 or 9M90

Number of brushes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Minimum brush length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.0 mm

Armature endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.25 mm

Nippondenso starter motor

Rating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.6 kW or 0.9 kW

Number of brushes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Minimum brush length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.0 mm

Minimum commutator diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28.0 mm

Armature endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.6 mm

1 General information and

precautions

General information

The electrical system is of the 12 volt negative earth type and comprises a 12 volt battery, alternator with integral voltage regulator, starter motor and related electrical accessories, components and wiring. The battery is charged by an alternator which is belt-driven.

The starter motor is of the pre-engaged type incorporating an integral solenoid. On starting, the solenoid moves the drive pinion into engagement with the flywheel ring gear before the starter motor is energised. Once the engine has started, a one-way clutch prevents the motor armature being driven by the engine until the pinion disengages from the flywheel.

Precautions

It is necessary to take extra care when working on the electrical system to avoid damage to semi-conductor devices (diodes and transistors), and to avoid the risk of

personal injury. In addition to the precautions given in the “Safety first!” Section at the beginning of this manual, take note of the following points when working on the system:

Do not reverse the battery connections. Components such as the alternator or any other having semi-conductor circuitry could be irreparably damaged.

If the engine is being started using jump leads and a slave battery, connect the batteries positive to positive and negative to negative. This also applies when connecting a battery charger.

Never disconnect the battery terminals, or alternator multi-plug connector, when the engine is running.

The battery leads and alternator multiplug must be disconnected before carrying out any electric welding on the car.

Never use an ohmmeter of the type incorporating a hand cranked generator for circuit or continuity testing.

2 Battery - removal and refitting

1 Open the bonnet and support it on its stay. 2 The battery is mounted on the left-hand

side in the engine compartment.

5C•2 Starting and charging systems

Warning: When reconnecting the battery, always connect the positive lead first and the negative lead last.

2.3 Battery lead terminals (arrowed)

Page 93

3 Disconnect the negative (earth) lead, followed by the positive lead (see illustration). 4 Unbolt and remove the clamps from the nibs at the base of the battery casing (see illustration). 5 Lift the battery from its location, taking care

not to spill electrolyte on the paintwork.

6 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

3 Battery - maintenance

Terminal check

1 To clean the battery terminals disconnect them, negative earth first, after having first removed the cover (where fitted). Use a wire brush or abrasive paper to clean the terminals. Bad corrosion should be treated with a solution of bicarbonate of soda, applied with an old toothbrush. Do not let this solution get inside the battery. 2 Coat the battery terminals with petroleum jelly or a proprietary anti-corrosive compound before reconnecting them. Reconnect and tighten the positive (live) lead first, followed by the negative (earth) lead. Do not overtighten.

Electrolyte level check

3 The battery fitted as standard equipment is probably of the low maintenance type. However if a non-standard battery is fitted the following checks should be made. 4 Remove the cell covers and check that the plate separators in each cell are covered by approximately 6.0 mm of electrolyte. If the battery case is translucent, the cell covers need not be removed to check the level. Topup if necessary with distilled or de-ionised water; do not overfill, and mop up any spillage at once (see “Weekly checks” illustration) .

Electrolyte replenishment

5 If the battery is in a fully charged state and one or more of the cells maintains a specific gravity reading which is 0.040 or more lower than the others, then it is likely that electrolyte has been lost from the cell at some time.

6 Top-up the cell with a solution of 1 part sulphuric acid to 2.5 parts of distilled water. If the cell is already topped up draw some electrolyte out of it with a pipette. 7 It is preferable to obtain ready mixed electrolyte: however, if the solution is to be mixed note the following:

General inspection

8 Wipe clean the top of the battery with a dry cloth to prevent the accumulation of dust and dampness which may cause the battery to become partially discharged over a period. 9 Check the battery clamp and platform for corrosion. If evident remove the battery and clean the deposits away. Then treat the affected metal with a proprietary anti-rust liquid and paint with the original colour. 10 Whenever the battery is removed it is worthwhile checking it for cracks and leakage. Cracks can be caused by topping-up the cells with distilled water in winter after instead of before a run. This gives the water no chance to mix with the electrolyte, so the former freezes and splits the battery case. If the case is fractured, it may be possible to repair it with a proprietary compound but this depends on the material used for the case.

Testing

11 If the car covers a small annual mileage it is worthwhile checking the specific gravity of the electrolyte every three months to determine the state of charge of the battery. Use a hydrometer to make the check and compare the results with the following table:

Ambient temperature 25ºC (77ºF):

above below

Fully charged 1.21 to 1.23 1.27 to 1.29 70% charged 1.17 to 1.19 1.23 to 1.25 Fully discharged1.05 to 1.07 1.11 to 1.13

Note that the specific gravity readings assume an electrolyte temperature of 15°C (60°F); for every 10°C (18°F) below 15°C (60°F) subtract

0.007. For every 10°C (18°F) above 15°C (60°F) add 0.007. 12 If the battery condition is suspect, first check the specific gravity of electrolyte in each cell. A variation of 0.040 or more between any cells indicates loss of electrolyte or deterioration of the internal plates. 13 In cases where a sealed-for-life maintenance-free battery is fitted, topping-up and testing of the electrolyte in each cell is not possible. The condition of the battery type can therefore only be tested using a battery condition indicator or a voltmeter, as with a standard or low maintenance type battery. 14 If testing the battery using a voltmeter, connect it across the battery and compare the result with those given in the Specifications

under “charge condition”. The test is only accurate if the battery has not been subject to any kind of charge for the previous six hours. If this is not the case switch on the headlights for 30 seconds then wait four to five minutes before testing the battery after switching off the headlights. All other electrical components must be switched off, so check that the doors and boot lid are fully shut when making the test. 15 If the voltage reading is less than the 12.2 volts then the battery is discharged, whilst a reading of 12.2 to 12.5 volts indicates a partially discharged condition. 16 If the battery is to be charged, remove it from the vehicle and charge it as follows:

Charging

17 In winter time when heavy demand is placed upon the battery, such as when starting from cold and much electrical equipment is continually in use, it is a good idea to have the battery occasionally fully charged from an external source.

Conventional and low maintenance batteries

18 Charge the battery at a rate of 3.5 to 4

amps and continue to charge the battery at this rate until no further rise in specific gravity is noted over a four hour period. 19 Alternatively, a trickle charger charging at a rate of 1.5 amps can be safely used overnight. 20 Specially rapid “boost” charges which are claimed to restore the power of the battery in 1 to 2 hours are not recommended as they can cause serious damage to the battery plates through overheating. 21 While charging the battery, note that the temperature of the electrolyte should never exceed 37.8°C (100°F).

Maintenance-free batteries

22 This battery type takes considerably

longer to fully recharge than the conventional type, the time taken being dependent on the extent of discharge, but it can take anything up to three days. 23 A constant voltage type charger is required and this set, when connected, to

13.9 to 14.9 volts with a charger current below 25 amps. Using this method the battery should be useable within three hours, giving a voltage reading of 12.5 volts, but this is for a partially discharged battery and, as mentioned, full charging can take considerably longer. 24 If the battery is to be charged from a fully discharged state (condition reading less than

12.2 volts) have it recharged by your Ford dealer or local automotive electrician as the charge rate is higher and constant supervision during charging is necessary.

Starting and charging systems 5C•3

2.4 Battery retaining clamp

Warning: The water must never be added to the sulphuric acid otherwise it will explode. Always pour the acid slowly onto the

water in a glass or plastic container.

Page 94

4 Alternator - removal and

refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery and disconnect the multi-plug or leads from the rear of the alternator.

2 Remove the head shield (where fitted). 3 Release the mounting and adjuster link

bolts, push the alternator in towards the engine and slip the drivebelt from the pulley. 4 Unscrew and remove the mounting bolts and adjuster link bolt and withdraw the alternator from the engine.

Refitting

5 Refit by reversing the removal operations, adjusting the drivebelt to the correct tension. 6 Note that it is important to ensure that the mounting bolt washers and spacers are fitted as shown (see illustration). If this is not done it is possible to excessively strain or even break the alternator mounting flanges when the bolts are tightened. 7 The mountings should be tightened evenly and progressively in the following order adjuster bolt, front mounting, rear mounting.

5 Alternator drivebelt -

removal, refitting and tensioning

1 A conventional “V” drivebelt is used to drive the alternator, power being transmitted from a pulley on the front end of the crankshaft. 2 To remove a belt, slacken the alternator mounting bolts and the bolts on the adjuster link, push the alternator in towards the engine and slip the belt from the pulleys (see

illustration). 3 Fit the belt by slipping it over the pulley rims

while the alternator is still loose on its mountings. Never be tempted to remove or fit a belt by prising it over a pulley without releasing the alternator. The pulley, and possibly the alternator, will be distorted or damaged. 4 To retension the belt, pull the alternator away from the engine until the belt is fairly taut and nip up the adjuster strap bolt. Check that the total deflection of the belt is as specified when tested on the longest belt run (see illustration). A little trial and error may be required to obtain the correct tension. If the belt is too slack, it will slip and soon become glazed or burnt and the alternator will not perform correctly, with consequent low battery charge. If the belt is too tight, the bearings in the alternator will soon be damaged. 5 Do not lever against the body of the alternator to tension the belt, or damage may occur.

6 Alternator - testing

1 The following in-vehicle alternator tests can be made irrespective of which type of alternator is fitted provided a 10 to 20 volt voltmeter, an ammeter (70 amp+) and a load rheostat are available. Alternatively a proprietary multimeter can be used. 2 Prior to undertaking any of the following tests, first check that the drivebelt tension is correct and that the battery is well charged.

Wiring continuity check

3 Detach the battery earth lead, then disconnect the wiring multiplug connector from the alternator. 4 Reconnect the earth lead, switch the ignition on and connect a voltmeter to a good earth point. Now check the voltage reading on each of the multi-plug terminals. A zero reading indicates an open circuit in the wiring whilst a battery voltage reading proves the wiring to be in good condition (see illustration).

Alternator output check

5 Connect up the voltmeter, ammeter and rheostat, as shown (see illustration). 6 Switch the headlights on, also the heater blower motor and heated rear window (where fitted). Start the engine and keep it running at 3000 rpm whilst varying the resistance to increase the current loading. The rated output should be achieved without the voltage dropping below 13 volts. 7 Complete the check by disconnecting the test instruments and switching off the ignition, headlights, blower motor and heated rear window.

Positive side voltage check

8 Connect up the voltmeter as shown (see illustration). Switch on the headlamps then

start the engine and note the voltage drop.

5C•4 Starting and charging systems

5.2 Alternator adjusting strap bolt (arrowed)

6.5 Alternator output check

A Ammeter V Voltmeter R Rheostat (30 amps rating resistor)

6.4 Alternator charging circuit continuity check

A Wiring multi-plug B Voltmeter

5.4 Check drivebelt tension is correct

4.6 Alternator mounting components

A Large washer B Small washer (where fitted) C Mounting bracket D Alternator mounting flanges

Page 95

Now run the engine at 3000 rpm. If the voltage shown is above 0.5 volt it is indicative of a high resistance in the positive side of the charge circuit, and this will need to be located and rectified. Switch the ignition and headlights off to complete.

Negative side voltage check

9 Proceed as described in paragraph 8 but connect the voltmeter as shown (see illustration). A voltmeter reading in excess of

0.25 volts is indicative of a high resistance fault in the negative side wiring.

Regulator control voltage check

10 Connect up the voltmeter and ammeter as shown (see illustration) then start the engine and check the voltage reading. 11 Increase the engine speed to 3000 rpm

and note the ammeter reading. This should fall to between 3 and 5 amps at which point check the voltmeter which should read between 13.7 and 14.5 volts. Any readings given which are not within these limits indicate a fault in the voltage control regulator and this must be renewed. 12 Switch the ignition off and detach the test equipment. Disconnect the battery earth lead and reconnect the alternator multi-plug. Reconnect the battery earth lead to complete.

7 Alternator brushes and

regulator - renewal

1 With the alternator removed from the engine, clean the external surfaces free from dirt.

Bosch

2 Remove the regulator screws from the rear cover and withdraw the regulator (see illustration). Check the length of each brush and renew if less than the specified minimum

(see illustration). 3 To remove the brushes, unsolder the wiring

connectors and remove each brush with its spring (see illustration). 4 Refit by reversing the removal operations.

Lucas type B

5 Remove the alternator rear cover. 6 Extract the brush box retaining screws and

withdraw the brush assemblies from the brush box (see illustration). 7 If the length of the brushes is less than the specified minimum, renew them. Refit by reversing the removal operations. 8 To remove the regulator, disconnect the wires from the unit and unscrew the retaining screw. 9 Refit by reversing the removal operations, but check that the small plastic spacer and the connecting link are correctly located.

Lucas type D

10 Proceed as described in paragraphs 5 and 6 (see illustration). 11 If the brushes are worn beyond the minimum length specified, disconnect the field connector and renew the brush box/regulator complete as the brushes are not individually replaceable. 12 Refit in the reverse order to removal.

Starting and charging systems 5C•5

6.10 Alternator regulator control voltage check

7.6 Brush box retaining screws Lucas type B alternator

7.10 Brush box retaining screws Lucas type D alternator

7.3 Brush box components Bosch alternator

A Brushes B Springs C Brush box

7.2b Compare the brush length with that shown in the Specifications -

Bosch alternator

7.2a Withdrawing the regulator/brush box

- Bosch alternator

6.9 Alternator charge circuit voltage drop check - negative side

6.8 Alternator charge circuit voltage drop check - positive side

Page 96

Motorola

13 Extract the two regulator securing screws, disconnect the two regulator leads and withdraw the unit. 14 Extract the brush box retaining screw and pull and tilt the brush box from its location, taking care not to damage the brushes during the process (see illustrations). 15 If the brushes are worn beyond the specified length, unsolder the brush connections. 16 Fit the new brushes by reversing the removal operations.

Mitsubishi

17 Hold the alternator shaft against rotation and unscrew the pulley unit. Take off the spring washer, pulley, fan, large spacer and dust seal. 18 Scribe a line along the length of the alternator to facilitate reassembly of the housings and stator. 19 Unscrew the tie-bolts and remove the drive end housing. 20 Separate the rotor from the rear end housing and the stator. Before this can be done, the housing may have to be warmed using a soldering iron or hot air gun (see

illustration). 21 Check the brushes for wear. If they have

worn below the minimum specified length, unscrew the four bolts and remove the rectifier and stator assembly from the rear housing. 22 Unsolder the stator connections from the rectifier pack terminals. Renew the brush box

(see illustration). 23 Resolder the new rectifier/brush pack

leads and refit the pack and stator. 24 Hold the brushes in the retracted state with a piece of wire so that the brushes will pass over the slip rings (see illustration). 25 Fit the rotor to the rear housing and then withdraw the temporary wire. 26 Fit the drive end housing (scribed line aligned) and secure with the tie-bolts. 27 Fit the dust seal, spacer, fan, pulley and spring washer. Tighten the pulley nut.

8 Starter motor - removal and

refitting

1 Disconnect the battery. 2 Working from under the vehicle, disconnect

the main starter motor cable and the two wires from the starter solenoid (see

illustration). 3 Unbolt the starter motor and withdraw it

from its location. 4 Refit the starter motor by reversing the removal procedure.

9 Starter motor - testing

1 Check that the battery is fully charged.

Solenoid check

2 To test the solenoid, first disconnect the battery negative lead and both leads from the solenoid. Check the continuity of the solenoid windings by connecting a test lamp (12V with 2 to 3W bulb) between the starter spade terminal and the solenoid body (see illustration). The lamp should light up.

3 Now make the test circuit as shown (see illustration), using a higher wattage (18 to 21

W) bulb. Energise the solenoid by applying 12V between the spade terminal and the starter

5C•6 Starting and charging systems

7.14a Brush box retaining screw Motorola alternator

7.20 Heating alternator rear housing Mitsubishi alternator

9.2 Starter motor solenoid winding check

A Battery terminal B Feed terminal

C Spade terminal

8.2 Starter motor cable connections (arrowed)

7.24 Wire (A) for holding alternator brushes in retracted position -

Mitsubishi alternator

7.22 Alternator stator and brush box connections - Mitsubishi alternator

A Stator connections B Brush box-to-rectifier terminal

7.14b Brush box and brushes (A) Motorola alternator

Page 97

feed terminal. The solenoid should be heard to operate and the test bulb should light up, indicating that the solenoid contacts have closed.

On load voltage check

4 Connect a voltmeter between the battery terminals. Disconnect the positive LT lead from the ignition coil and operate the starter. The voltmeter should indicate not less than 10.5V. 5 Now connect the voltmeter between the starter main terminal and the body of the starter motor. Operate the starter, with the coil LT lead still disconnected. The reading on the voltmeter should be no more than 1.0V lower than that indicated during the test described in paragraph 4. If it is, check the battery-tostarter motor wiring. 6 Connect the voltmeter between the battery positive terminal and the starter motor main feed terminal. Operate the starter (with the LT coil positive lead disconnected) for two or three seconds and observe the meter readings. A reading of 12V should drop to less than 1.0V. If the reading is higher, a high resistance is indicated (refer to paragraph 7). If the reading is lower, refer to paragraph 8. 7 Connect the voltmeter between the two main stud terminals of the starter solenoid. With the positive LT lead disconnected from the coil, operate the starter for two or three seconds and note the meter readings. Battery voltage (12V) should be indicated first, followed by a voltage drop of less than 0.5V. If outside this tolerance, a faulty switch or

connections may be the cause, or loose or corroded terminals in the circuit. 8 Connect a voltmeter between the battery negative terminal and the starter motor main casing. With the positive LT lead disconnected from the coil, operate the starter for two or three seconds. If the earth line is satisfactory, the reading should be less than 0.5V. If it is

0.6V or more then there is a high resistance in the earth return side of the circuit. This may be due to a loose or corroded connection either at the battery or at the engine block.

10 Starter motor - brush renewal

Bosch long frame and Cajavec

1 With the starter motor removed from the vehicle and cleaned, grip the unit in a vice fitted with soft jaw protectors. 2 Remove the two screws securing the commutator end housing cap, then remove the cap and rubber seal (see illustration). 3 Wipe any grease from the armature shaft, and remove the C-clip, or E-clip, as applicable, and shims from the end of the shaft (see illustrations). 4 Unscrew the two nuts and remove the washers, or remove the securing screws (as applicable), then lift off the commutator end housing (see illustrations). 5 Carefully prise the thrust retaining springs from their locations, then slide the brushes from the brush plate.

6 If the brushes have worn to less than the specified minimum, renew them as a set. To renew the brushes, cut the leads at their midpoint and make a good soldered joint when connecting the new brushes. 7 The commutator face should be clean and free from burnt spots. Where necessary, burnish with fine glass paper (not emery) and wipe with a fuel-moistened cloth. 8 On starter motors where the commutator end housing is secured by nuts and washers, position the brush plate over the end of the armature, with the cut-outs in the brush plate aligned with the end housing securing studs. 9 On starter motors where the commutator end housing is secured by screws, position the brush plate over the end of the armature with the cut-outs in the brush plate aligned with the loops in the field windings (see illustration). The brush plate will be positively located when the commutator end housing screws are fitted.

Starting and charging systems 5C•7

10.3a Remove the C-clip . . .

10.9 Align the cut-outs in the brush plate

(B) with the loops in the field windings (A)

10.4a Remove the commutator end housing securing screws

10.4b Commutator end housing removed to expose brush plate

10.3b . . . and shims from the end of the armature shaft

10.2 Remove the commutator end housing cap securing screws

9.3 Starter motor solenoid continuity check

A Battery terminal B Feed terminal

C Spade terminal

Page 98

10 Position the brushes in their respective locations in the brush plate, and fit the brush retaining springs. 11 Guide the commutator end housing into position, at the same time sliding the rubber insulator into the cut-out in the housing. Secure the commutator end housing with the nuts and washers or screws, as applicable. 12 Fit sufficient shims to the end of the armature shaft to eliminate endfloat when the C-clip or E-clip, as applicable is fitted, then fit the clip. 13 Fit the armature shaft bearing seal to the commutator end housing, then apply a little lithium-based grease to the end of the armature shaft and refit the end housing cap, securing with the two screws.

Bosch short frame

14 To remove and refit the brush assembly, proceed as for the Bosch long frame except for the following (see illustration). 15 Release the brush holders complete with brushes by pushing the brush holders towards the commutator and unclipping them from the brush plate. Withdraw the brush plate (see illustration). 16 To renew the brushes, the leads must be unsoldered from the terminals on the brush plate, and the leads of the new brushes must be soldered to the terminals. 17 To refit the brush assembly, position the brush plate over the end of the armature shaft, then assemble the brush holders, brushes and springs, ensuring that the brush holder clips are securely located. The brush plate will be positively located when the commutator end housing screws are fitted.

Lucas

Note: New star clips must be obtained for the armature shaft on reassembly.

18 With the starter motor removed from the vehicle and cleaned, grip the unit in a vice fitted with soft jaw protectors. 19 Remove the plastic cap from the end of the armature shaft, then remove the star clip from the end of the shaft, using a chisel at an angle of 45° to the shaft to distort the prongs of the clip until it can be removed (see

illustration). 20 Unscrew the two securing nuts and

remove the connector cable from the main feed terminal.

21 Extract the two commutator end plate securing screws, and carefully tap the end plate to free it. Lift the end plate clear to allow access to the two field brushes. Disconnect the two field brushes from the brush box to allow complete removal of the commutator end plate. Take care not to damage the gasket as the end plate is removed. 22 Remove the nut, washer and insulator from the main terminal stud on the commutator end plate, then push the stud and the second insulator through the end plate and unhook the brushes. 23 To remove the brush box, drill out the rivets securing the brush box to the end plate, then remove the brush box and gasket. 24 If the brushes have worn to less than the specified minimum, renew them as a set. To renew the brushes, cut the leads at their midpoint and make a good soldered joint when connecting the new brushes. 25 The commutator face should be clean and free from burnt spots. Where necessary, burnish with fine glass paper (not emery) and wipe with a fuel-moistened cloth. 26 Commence reassembly by positioning the brush box gasket on the commutator end plate, then position the brush box on the gasket and rivet the brush box to the end plate. Use a new gasket if necessary. 27 Fit the main terminal stud and insulator to the commutator end plate, then secure the stud with the remaining insulator, washer and nut. Fit the two brushes which are attached to the terminal stud into their respective locations in the brush box. 28 Fit the two field brushes into their locations in the brush box, then position the commutator end plate on the yoke and fit the two securing screws. 29 Fit a new star clip to the end of the armature shaft, ensuring that the clip is pressed home firmly to eliminate any endfloat in the armature (see illustration). Fit the plastic cap over the end of the armature shaft.

5C•8 Starting and charging systems

10.14 Commutator end housing

components - Bosch short frame motor

A Securing screws B Housing cap C Spanner

D Shims E C-clip F Armature shaft

10.15 Brush plate removal Bosch short frame motor

A Field brushes B Terminal brushes

C Brush plate D Brush holders

10.19 Brush assembly - Lucas starter motor

1 Plastic cap 2 Star clip 3 Commutator end plate

securing screw

4 Commutator end plate 5 Brush box 6 Yoke 7 Pole securing screw

8 Solenoid connector link 9 Pole shoe 10 Field coils

Page 99

Nippondenso

30 With the starter motor removed from the vehicle and cleaned, grip the unit in a vice fitted with soft jaw protectors. 31 Unscrew the retaining nut and washer and disconnect the wiring from the terminal on the solenoid.

32 Remove the two screws securing the commutator end housing cap and remove the cap (see illustration). 33 Remove the C-clip from the groove in the armature shaft, and remove the spring. 34 Unscrew the two bolts and washers, and withdraw the commutator end housing. 35 Withdraw the two field brushes from the brush plate, then remove the brush plate. 36 If the brushes have worn to less than the specified minimum, renew them as a set. To renew the brushes, cut the leads at their midpoint and make a good soldered joint when connecting the new brushes. 37 The commutator face should be clean and free from burnt spots. Where necessary, burnish with fine glass paper (not emery) and wipe with a fuel-moistened cloth. 38 Position the brush plate over the end of the armature, aligning the cut-outs in the brush plate with the loops in the field windings. The brush plate will be positively located when the commutator end housing bolts are fitted.

39 Fit the brushes to their locations in the brush plate, and retain with the springs. 40 Fit the commutator end housing and secure with the two bolts and washers. 41 Fit the spring and the C-clip to the end of the armature shaft, then smear the end of the shaft with a little lithium-based grease, and refit the commutator end housing cap, securing with the two screws. 42 Reconnect the wiring to the solenoid terminal and fit the washer and retaining nut.

Starting and charging systems 5C•9

10.32 Brush assembly - Nippondenso starter motor

1 Yoke 2 Solenoid connecting link 3 Pole shoe 4 Rubber grommet 5 Brush

6 Brush spring 7 Brush plate 8 Commutator end housing 9 Bush 10 Spring

11 C-clip 12 Commutator end housing cap 13 Commutator end housing securing

bolt

10.29 Using a soft faced hammer and socket to fit a new star clip to the end of the armature shaft - Lucas starter motor

Page 100

5C•10 Notes