Festool PI561556, PM561556, PD561556, PD561432 User Manual

TS 55 REQ
Guided Circular Saw
Guided Circular Saw Supplemental User’s Manual
WARNING To reduce the risk of serious injury, read and understand all safety
precautions and instructions in this manual before using this tool.
Limited Warranty
30 Day Money Back Guarantee
Buy with condence. If you are not completely satised, return
your tool receive a refund of either your purchase price or the lowest retail price at which the same item has been offered since your date of purchase. Freight charges are not refundable.
2
to the selling dealer within 30 days and you will
1+2 Limited Warranty
Festool offers a 3 year limited warranty, one of the strongest in the industry. This warranty is valid on the pre-condition that the tool is used and operated in compliance with the Festool operat-
ing instructions. Festool warrants that the specied tool will be
free from defects in materials and workmanship for a term of 3 years from the date of purchase.
Conditions of 1+2 Limited Warranty
All customers receive a free extended limited warranty (1 year + 2 years = 3 Years) on new Festool power tools purchased from an authorized retailer. Festool is responsible for all ship-
ping costs during the rst year of the warranty. During the
second and third year of the warranty the customer is respon­sible for shipping the tool to Festool. Festool will pay for return shipping to the customer using UPS Ground Service. All war­ranty service is valid 3 years from the date of purchase on your receipt or invoice. Proof of purchase may be required.
Excluded from the coverage under this warranty are: normal wear and tear, damages caused by misuse, abuse, or neglect; damage caused by anything other than defects in material and workmanship. This warranty does not apply to accessory items such as circular saw blades, drill bits, router bits, jigsaw blades, sanding belts, and grinding wheels. Operating a tool at a voltage or frequency different from the tool’s rating will void the warranty. This includes the usage of the tool in combination with a transformer. Festool does not condone nor support the use of any non-Festool engineered, designed, and manufac­tured accessories or consumables with Festool products. Use of any non-Festool products may affect performance or void the warranty. Festool is not responsible for any damages or losses incurred and user assumes all risk and responsibility with non­Festool derived products. Also excluded are “wearing parts,” such as carbon brushes, lamellas of air tools, rubber collars and seals, sanding discs and pads, and Festool gear (hats and shirts).
1 The following is an exemplar Festool limited warranty. The actual warranty that comes
with your power tool is controlling.
2 Tool must be returned in complete and whole condition as supplied to include Systainer,
cutter, blade, power cord, etc.
The obligations of Festool in its sole discretion under this warranty shall be limited to repair or replacement or a refund of the purchase price for any Festool portable power tool that is found to have a defect in materials or workmanship during
the warranty period. FESTOOL SHALL NOT BE LIABLE FOR ANY CONSEQUENTIAL, INCIDENTAL OR SPECIAL DAMAGES REGARDLESS OF THE THEORY OF LAW ON WHICH THE CLAIM IS BASED. ALL WARRANTIES IMPLIED BY STATE LAW, INCLUDING THE IMPLIED WARRANTIES OR MERCHANTABILITY AND FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE ARE HEREBY LIMITED TO THE DURATION OF THREE YEARS.
Some states in the U.S. and some Canadian provinces do not allow the limitations on how long an implied warranty lasts, so the above limitation may not apply to you. This warranty gives
you specic legal rights, and you may also have other rights
that vary from state to state in the U.S. and from province to province in Canada.
With the exception of any warranties implied by state or prov­ince law as limited above, the foregoing express limited war­ranty is exclusive and in lieu of all other warranties, guarantees, agreements, and similar obligations of Festool. Festool makes no other warranty, express or implied, for Festool portable power tools. This warranty policy is only valid for tools that are
purchased in the US and Canada. Warranty policies of other
countries may vary when obtaining warranty service outside the US and Canada. Some countries do exclude warranty for prod­ucts bought outside their territory. Festool reserves the right to reject the repair of any tool that is not part of the US/Canada product line. No agent, representative, distributor, dealer, or employee of Festool has the authority to increase or otherwise change the obligations or limitations of this warranty.
Repairs
If your Festool power tools require repair, you must contact our Service Department at 800-554-8741 (613-363-0169 Canada)
for authorization and address details. To expedite the repair,
please ll out and enclose the Repair Order Form. Download
the form at www.festoolusa.com (www.festoolcanada.com). No collect shipments will be accepted. No Festool hats, shirts or other wearables may be returned. Also contact our Service
Department at the telephone number listed above if you have
any questions about warranty claim procedures.
Returns
If you need to return your Festool tools for any reason, please
return it to the dealer from which you originally bought the tool.
Liability Statement
This product has been built to the high standards of Festool. Please do not attempt to operate or repair this equipment with­out adequate training. Any use, operation, or repair in contra­vention of this document is at your own risk. By acceptance of this system you hereby assume all liability consequent to your
use or misuse of this equipment. Festool assumes no liability for incidental, special, or consequential damage of any kind.
Equipment specications, applications, and options are subject
to change at the sole discretion of Festool without notice.
Proprietary Notice
All drawings and information herein are the property of Festool, TTS Tooltechnic Systems AG & Co. KG. All unauthorized use and reproduction is prohibited.
Written and Illustrated by Rick Christopherson.
© 2013 TTS Tooltechnic Systems AG & Co. KG
All rights reserved. Printed in the United States of America and Germany.
2 TS 55 REQ
Festool USA is a division of Tooltechnic Systems, LLC.
Festool is a trademark and service mark of TTS Tooltechnic Systems AG & Co. KG
Plug-It and Systainer are registered trademarks of TTS
Tooltechnic Systems AG & Co. KG
www.festoolusa.com
Contents
About This Manual ........................................... 3
Tool Symbols ................................................... 3
General Power Tool Safety Warnings .............. 4
Work Area Safety ..........................................4
Electrical Safety ............................................ 4
Personal Safety ............................................. 4
Power Tool Use and Care ................................ 4
Service ........................................................ 5
Specic Safety Rules for Circular Saws ................ 5
Causes and Prevention of Kickback ..................... 5
Respiratory Exposure Safety Warnings ................ 5
Functional Description ..................................... 6
Intended Use ................................................... 7
Technical Specications ..................................... 7
Setup ............................................................... 7
Setting Up a New Saw ...................................... 7
Adjusting the Guide Rail Cams ........................... 7
Trimming the Guide Rail Splinter Guard ............... 8
Installing the Outrigger Splinter Guard ................ 8
Changing the Sawblade .................................... 9
Sawblade Selection ........................................ 10
Tooth Shape ............................................... 10
Number of Teeth and Spacing ........................ 10
Hook Angle ................................................. 10
TS 55 REQ Sawblades .................................. 10
Guide Rails .................................................... 11
Tips for Choosing Guide Rail Lengths .............. 11
Joining Rails ................................................ 11
Operation ...................................................... 12
Setting the Blade Depth .................................. 12
Setting the Bevel Angle ................................... 13
Setting the Motor Speed ................................. 13
Using the Limit Stop ....................................... 14
Using Dust Extraction ..................................... 14
Connecting the Plug-it Cord ............................. 15
Turning on the Saw ........................................ 15
Applications .................................................. 16
Straight-Lining Rough Lumber ......................... 16
Crosscutting and Trimming .............................. 17
Plunge Cutting ............................................... 18
Cutting Non-Wood Materials ............................ 19
Soft Plastics ................................................ 19
Brittle Plastics ............................................. 19
Thin Aluminum ............................................ 19
Extruded Aluminum ..................................... 19
Maintenance .................................................. 20
Routine Maintenance ...................................... 20
Replacing the Guide Rail Splinter Guard ............ 21
Changing the Motor Brushes ............................ 21
Adjustments .................................................. 22
Matching Multiple Saws to Shared Guide Rails . 22
Installing the Imperial Depth Gauge ............... 23
Troubleshooting ............................................ 24

About This Manual

Save These Instructions
It is important for you to read and understand this manual. The information it contains relates to protecting YOUR SAFETY and PREVENTING PROBLEMS. The symbols below are used to help you recognize this information.
WARNING! Indicates a potentially hazardous situation which, if not avoided, could result
in death or serious injury.
CAUTION! Indicates a potentially hazardous situation which, if not avoided, could result
in minor or moderate injury.
NOTICE: Indicates a potential situation which, if not avoided, can result in property
damage or damage to the tool.
Note: Indicates information, notes, or tips for improving your success using the tool.

Tool Symbols

V Volts W Watts Hz Hertz ~ Alternating Current (AC) n
No-load Speed
o
Ø Diameter
Class II Double Insulated
Supplemental Owner’s Manual 3

General Power Tool Safety Warnings

WARNING! Read all safety warnings and
instructions. Failure to follow the warnings and
instructions may result in electric shock, re, and/or
serious injury.

Work Area Safety

Keep your work area clean and well lit. Cluttered or dark work
areas invite accidents.
Do not operate power tools in explosive atmospheres, such
as in the presence of ammable liquids, gases, or dust. Power

Electrical Safety

Power tool plugs must match the outlet. Never modify the
plug in any way. Do not use any adapter plugs with earthed (grounded) power tools. Unmodied plugs and matching
outlets will reduce risk of electric shock.
Avoid body contact with earthed or grounded surfaces such
as pipes, radiators, ranges and refrigerators. There is an increased risk of electric shock if your body is earthed or grounded.
Do not expose power tools to rain or wet conditions. Water
entering a power tool will increase the risk of electric shock.
Do not abuse the cord. Never use the cord for carrying, pull-
ing, or unplugging the power tool. Keep cord away from heat,
oil, sharp edges or moving parts. Damaged or entangled
cords increase the risk of electric shock.
When operating a power tool outdoors, use an extension
cord suitable for outdoor use. Use of a cord for outdoor use reduces the risk of electric shock.
Save all warnings and instructions for future reference.
tools create sparks which may ignite the dust or fumes.
Keep children and bystanders away while operating a power
tool. Distractions can cause you to lose control.
If operating a power tool in a damp location is unavoidable,
use a ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) protected supply. Use of a GFCI reduces the risk of electric shock.
Never use an extension cord that is damaged, including cuts,
exposed wires, or bent/missing prongs. Damaged extension cords increase the risk of re or electric shock.
Use only extension cords rated for the purpose.
Use only extension cords rated for the amperage of this tool
and the length of the cord. Using too small of an extension cord can cause the cord to overheat.
Extension Cord Ratings Cord Length Size (AWG)
<50 Ft. 14 50-100 Ft. 12 >100 Ft. Not recommended

Personal Safety

Stay alert, watch what you are doing, and use common sense
when operating a power tool. Do not use a power tool while tired or under the inuence of drugs, alcohol, or medication.
A moment of inattention while operating power tools may result in serious personal injury.
Use personal protective equipment. Always wear eye pro-
tection. Protective equipment such as dust mask, non-skid safety shoes, hard hat, or hearing protection used for appro­priate conditions will reduce personal injuries.
Prevent unintentional starting. Ensure the switch is in the
off-position before connecting to power source, picking up,
or carrying the tool. Carrying power tools with your nger on
the switch or energizing power tools that have the switch on invites accidents.
Remove adjusting key or wrench before turning the power
tool on. A wrench or a key that is left attached to a rotating part of the tool may result in personal injury.
Do not overreach. Keep proper footing and balance at all
times. This enables better control of the tool in unexpected situations.
Dress properly. Do not wear loose clothing or jewelry. Keep
your hair, clothing, and gloves away from moving parts. Loose clothes, jewelry, or long hair can be caught in moving parts.
If devices are provided for the connection of dust extrac-
tion and collection facilities, ensure these are connected and properly used. Use of dust collection can reduce dust-related hazards.
Always wear safety glasses complying with ANSI Z87.1.
Ordinary glasses are not proper protection.

Power Tool Use and Care

Do not force the power tool. Use the correct power tool for
your application. The correct power tool will do the job better and safer at the rate for which it is designed.
Do not use the power tool if the switch does not turn it on
and off. Any power tool that cannot be controlled with the switch is dangerous and must be repaired.
Disconnect the plug from the power source before making
any adjustments, changing accessories, or storing the tool. Such preventive safety measures reduce the risk of starting the tool accidentally.
Store idle tools out of reach of children and do not allow
persons unfamiliar with the power tool or these instructions
4 TS 55 REQ
to operate the power tool. Power tools are dangerous in the hands of untrained users.
Maintain power tools. Check for misalignment or binding of
moving parts, breakage of parts and any other condition that
may affect the power tool’s operation. If damaged, have the power tool repaired before use. Many accidents are caused by
poorly maintained power tools.
Keep cutting tools sharp and clean. Properly maintained tools
with sharp cutting edges are less likely to bind and are easier to control.
Use the power tool, accessories, and tool bits etc. in accor-
dance with these instructions, taking into account the working
conditions and the work to be performed. Use of the power tool for operations different from those intended could result in a hazardous situation.

Service

Have your power tool serviced by a qualied repair person
using only identical replacement parts. This will ensure that
Specic Safety Rules for Circular Saws
Keep hands away from the blade and cutting area. Keep your
second hand on the auxiliary handle. If both hands are hold­ing the saw, they cannot be cut by the blade.
Keep your body positioned to either side of the saw blade, but
not in line with the saw blade. Kickback could cause the saw to jump backward. (See “Causes and Prevention of Kickback” below.)
Do not reach underneath the workpiece. The blade is fully
exposed under the workpiece.
Never use a plunging circular saw that fails to return to its
unplunged position. If the saw ever fails to fully retract the
sawblade as expected, immediately stop using the saw and have the saw serviced by an authorized service center.
Never use a dust extraction system when making cuts that
can result in sparks, such as cutting through nails and other
ferrous materials. Sparks and hot embers can cause a re or
explosion in the dust extraction system.
To reduce the risk of serious injury, never alter or misuse the
power tool.
the safety of the power tool is maintained.
Never hold the piece being cut in your hands or across your
leg. It is important to support the work properly to minimize
body exposure, blade binding, or loss of control.
Hold the saw by the insulated handles when performing an
operation in which the sawblade may contact hidden wiring or its own cord. Contact with a “live” wire will make the exposed metal parts of the tool “live” and shock the operator.
When ripping, always use a rip fence or straight edge guide.
This improves the accuracy of cut and reduces the chance for blade binding.
Always use blades with the correct size and shape arbor
holes. Blades that do not match the mounting hardware of the saw will run eccentrically, causing loss of control.
Never use damaged or incorrect blade anges or bolt. The
blade anges and bolt were specially designed for your saw
for optimum performance and safety of operation.

Causes and Prevention of Kickback

Kickback is a sudden reaction to a pinched, bound, or mis­aligned saw blade that causes the saw to lift up and out of the workpiece toward the operator.
Chances for kickback may be reduced by taking proper precau­tions as described below:
Maintain a rm grip with both hands on the saw and position
your body and arm to allow you to resist kickback forces. Kickback forces can be controlled by the operator if proper precautions are taken.
When interrupting a cut for any reason, release the trigger
and hold the saw motionless in the material until the blade comes to a complete stop. Never attempt to remove the saw from the work or pull the saw backward while the blade is in motion, or kickback may occur.
When restarting a saw in the workpiece, center the saw blade
in the kerf and check that the saw teeth are not engaging the

Respiratory Exposure Safety Warnings

Substantial or repeated inhalation of dust and other airborne contaminants, in particular those with a smaller particle size, may cause respiratory or other illnesses. Various dusts created by power sanding, sawing, grinding, drilling and other construc­tion activities contain chemicals or substances known (to the State of California and others) to cause cancer, birth defects or other reproductive harm. Some examples of these chemicals/ substances are: lead from lead-based paints; crystalline silica from bricks, cement, and other masonry products; arsenic and chromium from chemically-treated lumber; and some wood
material. If the saw blade is binding during a restart, it may
climb up or kickback from the workpiece.
Do not use a dull or damaged blade. Dull or improperly
sharpened blades cause excessive friction, blade binding, and kickback.
Support large panels to minimize the risk of the blade pinch-
ing and causing a kickback. Large panels tend to sag under their own weight. Supports must be placed under the panel on both sides, near the line of cut and near the edge of the panel.
The bevel adjusting knobs must be fully tightened before
making a cut. If the blade tilts during a cut, it will bind and
cause a kickback.
Use extra caution when making a plunge cut into existing
walls or other blind areas. The protruding blade may cut objects that can cause kickback.
dusts, especially from hardwoods, but also from some soft-
woods such as Western Red Cedar.
The risk from these exposures varies, depending on how often you do this type of work. To reduce your exposure to these chemicals: work in a well ventilated area and use a properly
functioning dust extraction system. When the inhalation of
dust cannot be substantially controlled, i.e., kept at or near the ambient (background) level, the operator and any bystanders
should wear a respirator approved by NIOSH for the type of
dust encountered.
Supplemental Owner’s Manual 5

Functional Description

F
E
G
I
R
J
K
L
D
C
G
F
H
B
A
S
I
D
O
L
M
Q
P
O
N
Item Name or Description Ref. Page(s)
A Viewing Window 8 B Arbor Bolt 9 C Spring Loaded Riving Knife -- D Miter Release Button 13 E Dust Collection Port 14 F Plunge/Trigger Release 15 G FastFix Arbor/Plunge Lock 9 H Trigger (On/Off Switch) 15
I Auxiliary Handle -- J Blade Wrench Storage 9
6 TS 55 REQ
Item Name or Description Ref. Page(s)
K Depth Stop and Gauge 12,23 L Bevel Gauge and Lock Knob 13
M Speed Control 13 N Plug-It Power Cord Port 15 O Guide Rail Cams 7,8
P Sole Plate --
Q Outrigger Splinter Guard 8,18
R Limit Stop 14,18 S Main Handle --

Intended Use

The TS 55 REQ, hand-operated circular saw, is designed exclusively for sawing of wood, wood-like materials, and plastics. The saw may also be used for cutting aluminum when a Festool aluminum-cutting sawblade is installed. The tool should not be altered or used for any other purpose,
other than as specied in these operating instructions. Using
the tool in contravention to this manual will void your war­ranty and may lead to injury. The user shall be responsible and liable for damages and accidents resulting from misuse or abuse of this saw.
Technical Specications
Power Consumption 1200 Watts (10 amps @ 120 volts) Speed Range 2,000 to 5,200 RPM (no load)
Blade Diameter 160 mm Arbor Diameter 20 mm, Round Depth of Cut (without guide rail) 55 mm (2.2”) @ 90°, 43 mm (1.7”) @ 45° Bevel Angle 0° to 45°, plus -1° to 47° Weight 4.5 kg (9.9 lbs)

Setup

Setting Up a New Saw

There are some simple setup procedures to follow before a new saw can be used. Follow this sequence of inspections
and adjustments before using the saw for the rst time. It
is important that these instructions be followed sequentially before cutting the zero-clearance splinter guards.
WARNING! Always disconnect the saw from the
power supply before making any adjustments to the saw or installing or removing any accessory.
CAUTION! Check regularly whether the saw blade
is in good condition, and the arbor bolt is rmly
tightened. Saw blades which are cracked, damaged, or deformed should no longer be used.
1. With the saw unplugged, inspect the blade for damage
and make sure it is properly secured to the arbor. (Refer to “Changing the Sawblade” on page 9 for more information).
2. Perform the guide rail gib cam adjustment procedure described below.
3. Install the power cord into the Plug-It receptacle on the saw (refer to page 15 for more information).
4. After completing all of the inspections and adjustments listed above, cut the zero-clearance splinter guards as described on page 8.

Adjusting the Guide Rail Cams

The guide rail cams tighten against the rib of the guide rail to remove any side-play from the saw during a cut. Knobs on the top of the cams permit easy adjustment.
1. Place the saw on the guide rail.
2. Loosen both cams by rotating the knobs counterclockwise.
3. Working with one cam at a time, jiggle the saw side-to-
side while turning the cam clockwise until the saw ts
snugly to the rail.
4. Repeat for the second cam.
5. Make sure the cams are not over tightened by
sliding the saw down the guide rail. If the saw
does not slide easily, loosen the cams.
Supplemental Owner’s Manual 7
Notes:
The cams do not need to be very tight for normal opera-
tions. A tiny amount of side-play will not impact the quality of a cut.
Over tightening the cams or operating the saw in abrasive
environments can cause premature wear of the wear
bars. Periodically inspect the wear bars for at spots, and
replace if necessary.
Replaceable
Wear Bars
Guide Rail
Cams

Trimming the Guide Rail Splinter Guard

The leading edge of the guide rail has a replaceable, rub-
ber, zero-clearance strip. The rst time the saw is used with
the guide rail, this strip is trimmed to match the sawblade.
When trimmed to size, this strip reduces chipping and
tearout during normal cutting.
Important: If you have more than one saw that
uses the same guide rail system, you want all of the saws to have the same cutting path. Before cutting the splinter guard, use the “Matching Multiple Saws
to Shared Guide Rails” on page 22 to match one
saw to another before completing this procedure.
1. Set the blade depth very shallow (6 to 7 mm) so that the blade teeth penetrate the strip by about half a tooth, as shown.
2. Set the motor speed to 6.
3. Place the guide rail on a stable surface with the strip hanging over the edge so you don’t cut the table.
4. If necessary, adjust the guide rail cams as described on
page 7.
5. Cut the strip in a single, smooth, low-speed rip from one end of the guide rail to the other.
Set the blade depth so
about 1/2 a tooth is
Splinter
Guard
below the splinter guard.

Installing the Outrigger Splinter Guard

The outrigger splinter guard is used to prevent chipping on the offcut side of the sawblade. The outrigger can be retracted away from the workpiece when not needed.
Note: The outrigger splinter guard is a consumable
item and will need to be replaced periodically when it is no longer close to the blade.
Note: The rst time you use the outrigger splinter
guard, it will be trimmed to match the blade.
1. Remove the clear viewing window by pushing straight down and sliding it out of the saw.
2. Remove the thumbscrew from the outrigger and slide the outrigger on to the front edge of the blade guard as shown.
3. Insert the thumbscrew through the outrigger, through the height adjustment slot, and into the captive nut on the back side of the outrigger.
4. Place the guiderail on the workpiece and the saw on the guiderail.
5. Press down on the outrigger splinter guard so it is lightly touching the workpiece, and tighten the thumbscrew.
Begin and end with
cams lined up with
guide rail ends
6. For longer life, remove the splinter guard and reinstall
the clear viewing window, when not in use.
8 TS 55 REQ

Changing the Sawblade

The TS55 saw features the FastFix system for easier blade changing. The FastFix system is engaged by raising the FastFix lever and plunging the saw down. The system includes the following features:
For safety, the power switch is locked out.
The plunge depth is locked in the position shown to the
right with the arbor bolt accessible through an opening in the blade cover.
The arbor is locked from turning.
Sawblade Checks and Warnings
Use only sawblades that are approved for use with the
saw and appropriate for the type of material being cut.
Use only sawblades with a diameter of 160 mm, and an
arbor bore of 20 mm.
Do not use a sawblade that is bent or warped. Do not use a sawblade with missing or damaged teeth.
Removing the Sawblade
1. Unplug the saw for safety.
2. Although not required, you may wish to remove the outrigger splinter guard for better clearance.
3. Set the blade depth guage to at least 25 mm, or below.
4. Raise the FastFix latch lever.
5. Press upward on the plunge lock release button and plunge the saw down until it locks into position.
6. Using the arbor wrench (stored in the auxiliary handle) loosen the arbor bolt by turning it counterclockwise.
7. Remove the arbor bolt and ange.
Hint: If you drop the arbor ange inside the blade
guard, remove the blade and the arbor ange should
come out afterward.
Plunge
Release
Arbor Bolt
and Flange
Inboard
Arbor Flange
Insert the
blade over the
riving knife.
FastFix
Lever
Depth
Gauge
Blade
Wrench
Arbor Bolt
and Flange
Alignment Keys
8. Lift the blade off the inboard arbor ange, and slide the
blade out of the blade guard over the top of the riving knife.
Replacing the Sawblade
Festool offers a variety of sawblades for the many types of cuts the saw can be used for. These range from ne cross­cutting, ripping, and even a plastic and metal cutting blade. Refer to “Sawblade Selection” on page 10 for information on which blade may be best suited for the desired task.
1. Make sure the blade’s label is facing outward, and the teeth are facing forward in the direction shown above.
2. Insert the blade into the housing, over the top of the riving knife, and onto the arbor.
3. Make sure the blade is properly seated on the inboard
arbor ange.
Supplemental Owner’s Manual 9
4. Install the arbor ange with the alignment keys aligned with the notches in the inboard arbor ange.
5. Firmly tighten the arbor bolt.
CAUTION! The arbor bolt is not a self-tightening
type if left too loose. Periodically check to ensure it
is rmly tightened.

Sawblade Selection

Festool sawblades are designed for optimal performance in a variety of applications. Choosing the correct sawblade is important for obtaining the best cuts and optimal blade life. There are several factors that determine which blades are best suited for the operation.

Tooth Shape

Festool sawblades come in two primary tooth shapes. The Alternate Top Bevel (ATB) shape is
ideal for clean cutting of wood bers. The Triple
Chip (TC) shape is very robust in holding sharp­ness in hard or abrasive materials.
The alternating points of the ATB blade slice
through the wood bers at the edges of the cut to produce clean and efcient cuts. The lower 15° bevel angle of Festool blades allow them
to maintain sharpness of the points longer between sharpenings.
The trapezoidal shape of the TC blade tooth maintains its sharpness by not having points that could quickly dull. Each trapezoidal tooth initially cuts a little of the center of the cut,
and then is followed by a at-top raker tooth to nish the cut and clean up the corners. The
TC grind is ideally suited for materials that would otherwise quickly dull an ATB blade.
AT B
Bevel
TCG

Number of Teeth and Spacing

The more teeth a blade has, the less work each tooth has
to do by itself. This results in cleaner cuts in brous materi­als such as wood. It also makes the blade less aggressive in its cutting, which is benecial in both hard materials and brous materials.
Another aspect about tooth spacing is harmonics. If each
successive tooth strikes the workpiece in rhythm with other teeth, it can set up vibrations in the blade and workpiece. Festool sawblades use variable tooth spacing to prevent harmonics from happening. The spacing between successive teeth is constantly changing so that the frequency of suc­cessive cuts is never in a harmful rhythm.

Hook Angle

The hook angle of a sawblade is the angle between the face of a blade tooth with respect to a radial line to the center of the blade. This is most obvious on rip­ping blades, where the high hook angle is easily seen. The higher the hook angle, the more aggressive the blade will cut the workpiece. This is desired for ripping, but it is not desired for ner cuts, and espe­cially not for vary hard materials.
Cutting harder materials is best performed with blades with
lower hook angles. Metal cutting blades (and miter saw
blades) actually have negative hook angles to minimize their aggressiveness in the cut. This means that the teeth are sloped slightly backward from the radial line to the center of the blade.
Hook

TS 55 REQ Sawblades

Fine Crosscut: 48T, ATB, 12° hook
This is the standard blade that comes with the TS55 saw. The high tooth count, low hook angle, and ATB design make it optimally suited for cut­ting veneered plywood with minimal tearout.
Combination: 28T, ATB, 15° hook
This blade combines the geometries of both ripping and crosscut blades. The higher hook angle makes it cut more aggressive like a ripping blade, and the moderate tooth count provides a cleaner cut like a crosscut blade.
General Purpose: 12T, ATB, 20° hook With a low tooth count and a high hook
angle, this blade easily cuts through general construction materials.
Ripping: 14T, ATB, 37° hook
The high hook angle of the Panther blade makes for effortless ripping without burning the cut.
Fine Laminate: 48T, TC, 4° hook
The ultra-hard TCG teeth on this blade provide chip-free cutting of laminates and solid surface materials without dulling.
Aluminum/Plastic: 56T, TC, -5° hook
The negative hook angle and high TCG tooth count of this blade provides grab-free control for cutting aluminum and hard plastic.
10 TS 55 REQ

Guide Rails

Guide rails come in a variety of lengths, ranging from 32
inches to 197 inches (800mm to 5000mm). It is always best
to use the correct length rail for the cut, but sometimes it is necessary to join two smaller rails together to make a lon­ger rail. Guide rail connecting bars are available for joining two or more guide rails together.

Tips for Choosing Guide Rail Lengths

The length of the guide rail must be at least 10 inches (250mm) longer than the cut to be performed. This is so that the saw can be supported (and guided) at both the beginning and end of the cut. The minimum position is when the guide rail cam (page 7) is at the edge of the rail, but still on the rail.
The guide rail must extend at least 6 to 7 inches (depend-
ing on blade depth) ahead of the cut to allow the saw­blade to be plunged without entering the workpiece.
The guide rail must extend at least 3 inches past the cut
to allow the center of the blade to exit the workpiece.
To simplify storage or transportation, some woodworkers prefer having two shorter rails instead of a longer rail. Other
woodworkers prefer to have single lengths for the specic
cuts they make, to minimize the frequency of needing to join rails. Here are some tips about choosing guide rail lengths to suit your needs:
For frequent cutting of plywood sheets that involve both
ripping and crosscutting, dedicated guide rails of the appropriate length may be best. This allows for switching back and forth quickly without having to join rails.
It’s more efcient to have guide rails of different lengths
than it is to have two guide rails of the same length. This gives you more variety in lengths. For example, if you had two 55 inch rails, you would have only two possible combinations: 55 and 110 inches. However, if you had
lengths of 42 and 75 inches, for example, you would have three combinations of lengths: 42, 75, and 117 inches.
Shorter guide rails are easier to work with for shorter
cuts. A cabinetmaker, for example, may want dedicated shorter guide rails for crosscutting cabinet carcase components.
Minimum
Position at the
Start of the Cut
Minimum
Position at the
End of the Cut
Center
of Blade

Joining Rails

Note: Do not assume that butting the two rail ends
together will result in a straight line for their entire length. A very tiny error in the butted joint can
result in a signicant error across the length of the
joined rails. A long straightedge is the recommended method for aligning the rails.
1. Insert the two connecting bars into the T-slots on one
rail (typically the longer of the two rails). Make sure the
clamping screws are facing outward.
2. Slide the second rail over the connecting bars and push the two rails together.
3. Place a straightedge across the joint between the two rails, as shown to the right.
4. Center the top connecting bar across the joint, and gently tighten the 4 clamping screws. Do not over tighten
the screws, or you may dimple the guide rail.
5. Carefully ip the guide rails over, and with the straight- edge across the joint, tighten the bottom clamping screws.
Supplemental Owner’s Manual 11
Upper
Connecting
Bar
Straightedge
Lower
Connecting
Bar
Clamping
Screws

Operation

Setting the Blade Depth

The TS55 is equipped with a depth stop for setting the depth of the blade during a plunge cut. Using the correct blade depth improves cutting safety, cut quality, and motor
efciency.
Multi-Function Tables
When the saw is used in conjunction with a Multi-Function Table (MFT), the blade depth is typically limited to be 2mm
deeper than the thickness of the workpiece. This limits the amount that the blade cuts into the table.
Off-table Cutting
When the saw is used for off-table cutting, the blade can be
set deeper without cutting into the worktable. The follow­ing guidelines can be used to determine the optimal blade depth.
Effects of Too Shallow of a Setting
Higher drag on the sawblade, requiring more power and
effort to complete the cut.
Increased chance for kickback. Increased chipping and splintering on the underside of the
cut, especially with melamine and veneers.
Increased burning of the cut, especially in certain hard-
woods like cherry and maple.
With the exception of underside chipping, all of these
effects are greatest with ner-toothed blades.
Effects of Too Deep of a Setting
Increased danger with more of the blade exposed below
the workpiece.
Increased sawtooth marks in the cut. Increased top-side chipping and splintering, especially
without using the guide rail and splinter guards.
with a shallower cut.
Cutting dense and/or hard materials may require a deeper
setting to decrease heat and load on the tool.
Cutting fragile or shatter-prone materials such as plastics
or countertop laminates is best with a shallow setting (and low speed).
Cutting aluminum may be improved with a semi-shallow
setting, but not too shallow.
When Used with the Multi-Function Table (MFT) you may
wish to keep the blade depth shallower.
Cutting non-fragile, non-shattering plastics such as poly-
propylene or solid-surface countertops may be improved with a deeper cut.
More aggressive blades, such as the Panther ripping
blade, can be used at a shallower setting.
Using the Depth Stop
The depth stop has two index pointers 5mm apart. One is used to indicate the blade depth when used without a guide rail, and the other is used to indicate the blade depth when used with a guide rail.
The TS 55 REQ also includes an optional imperial (inch) depth gauge sticker. Refer to “Installing the Imperial Depth
Gauge” on page 23 for instructions on installing the
sticker.
To change the depth setting, press in on the index pointer
and slide it up or down to the desired setting.
When precise depth control is needed, rotate the ne
adjustment screw using the blade wrench. This is typically needed only when making trenching cuts.
Depth Without
Guide Rail
Blade Depth Recommendations
There are no set rules for setting the depth of the blade with
Depth With
Guide Rail
respect to the underside of the cut. However, a common industry guideline is to have the gullets of the blade even with the underside of the workpiece. This will therefore be
Fine
Adjustment
used as a baseline to describe optional depth settings.
Press In
Gullet
If a material is prone to burning in the cut, increase the
depth slightly. This includes ripping hardwoods such as cherry and maple.
Using a combination blade in solid wood may perform
better with a slightly deeper setting.
Using a coarse blade in sheet materials may be improved
12 TS 55 REQ
to Slide

Setting the Bevel Angle

The standard bevel range of the TS 55 REQ is between 0˚ and 45˚. However, an extended range is also available from
-1˚ to 47˚. The extended range is available by pulling out
on the limit release knob.
Bevel
Guage
Index
Pointer
1. Loosen the front and rear bevel thumbscrews.
2. Tilt the saw until the index pointer is aligned with the desired angle. To go above or below the normal limit stops, pull out slightly on the limit release knob.
3. Retighten both bevel thumbscrews.
Rear
Thumbscrew
Front
Thumbscrew

Setting the Motor Speed

The TS55 has electronic speed control with soft-start circuitry. The electronic controller will maintain the motor speed even as the load changes. The speed control is
innitely variable from 2000 to 5200 RPM. The optimal
speed of the saw is predominately determined by the type of material being cut.
Turn the speed control dial to the number shown in the table below.
Material Speed
Soft wood products and veneer plywoods 6 Hardwood products 3-6 Plastic laminate countertops 6
Hard plastics 3-5 Soft plastics 1-4
Plaster and cementitious hardboard 1-3 Aluminum 4-6
Limit
Release
Speed
Control
Supplemental Owner’s Manual 13

Using the Limit Stop

The limit stop serves two purposes: it controls the saw’s starting position and prevents a kickback during a plunge cut. The leading edge of the limit stop prevents the saw from lifting up at the beginning of a plunge cut. This is what prevents kickback during a plunging operation. Refer to “Plunge Cutting” on page 18 for more information.
1. Slide the limit stop onto the T-slot of the guide rail behind the saw, and with the embossed arrow pointing toward the saw.
2. Position the stop behind the starting position of the saw.
When the blade is at full-depth, the limit stop is 3¾
inches behind the start of the cut.
When the blade is less than full depth, the distance
between the blade (cut) and the limit stop will be greater.
For best results, you should always verify the blade’s
cutting position before staring the cut.
3. Tighten the thumbscrew on the limit stop.

Using Dust Extraction

The TS55 can be used with or without a dust extraction system. The chip diverter swivels to direct the sawdust away from the work area when a dust extraction system is not used.
For best results, however, a dust extraction system (such as the Festool CT 22 shown below) should be used. Festool dust extractors have the added features of variable speed, and sensing when the saw is turned on. The vacuum will automatically start when the saw is turned on, and will remain running for a couple of seconds after the saw turns off to clear the remaining dust.
Saw’s
Power Cord
Power Switch
Set to Auto
Clamping
Thumbscrew
Limit Stop
Back of
Saw
Guide Rail
T-Slot
1. Insert the extractor hose on to the chip diverter.
The 27mm Festool hose ts inside the diverter, and the
36mm Festool hose ts over the diverter.
The diverter ID is 35mm (1⅜”), and the OD is 39mm
9
(1
⁄16”).
2. Plug the TS 55 power cord into the auxiliary outlet on the extractor (if so equipped).
3. Set the power switch on the extractor to “Auto.” (The auxiliary power outlet is active only when the switch is set to Auto.)
27mm
Vac Hose
14 TS 55 REQ

Connecting the Plug-it Cord

The TS55 saw comes equipped with a removable Plug-It
power cord. To install the power cord, insert the cord into the inlet on the tool with the key and keyway aligned, and twist the locking ring. Reverse the procedure to remove the cord.
NOTICE: Make sure to fully tighten the plug-it cord
a full quarter-turn until it clicks. If the plug is not
fully locked, the socket and cord can overheat and be damaged.
Plug-It
Port
Locking
Ring
Key &
Keyway
Lock
Unlock

Turning on the Saw

To prevent unexpected start-ups, the power switch has an integral safety interlock. Before the saw can be started or plunged, the plunge release must be engaged.
To start the saw, push up on the plunge release, and pull back on the trigger. Once the trigger has been engaged, you no longer need to hold the plunge release raised.
Plunge &
Trigger Release
Power
Trigger
A Note About Motor Sound
Most circular saws do not have variable speed electronic
controls like the TS55 has. For this reason, many new saw owners aren’t accustomed to the slight “growling” sound
of the motor’s gears when they rst operate the saw. This
sound is normal and not an indication that something is wrong with the tool.
The sound is the result of the gears interacting with the electronic speed control. The electronic controller in the motor controls the motor speed by turning it On and Off very rapidly. This form of speed control is called “Pulse
Width Modulation” (PWM), and is common in most power tools with a variable speed control. When there is little or
no load on the sawblade, the pulsations of the motor cause the gears to rapidly engage and disengage (called lash), and this is the sound you are hearing.
Supplemental Owner’s Manual 15

Applications

The TS55 is capable of performing a wide variety of tasks. The following sections provide information on some of these tasks. This is intended to be an introduction to the capabili-

Straight-Lining Rough Lumber

Purchasing lumber directly from a saw mill is signicantly
less expensive than buying from a home center. However, part of the reason why the lumber is less expensive is because it frequently has not been straight-line ripped.
Sawmills have special straight-line ripping tablesaws, but they charge an extra fee for the service, and straight-lining on a regular tablesaw is complicated.
The TS55 can quickly and easily straight-line rough lumber using the guide rail. Additionally, if the grain of the wood is diagonal with the cut edge, the TS55 can be used to re-cut the lumber on a diagonal to match the natural wood grain direction or to avoid defects.
Tips for Successful Straight-Lining
Use the correct blade for the cut. The Panther ripping
blade will provide the easiest cutting in any hardwood. A coarse combination blade may be used for softwoods,
or for a ner edge, but it will take more effort to rip the
wood.
ties of the saw, but should not be considered as a compre­hensive list of its capabilities.
Choosing a blade depth: When ripping hardwood lumber,
there is a trade off between cutting power and cutting quality. A deeper blade setting takes less energy, but a
shallower blade setting typically leaves a ner cut.
A dedicated ripping blade, such as the Panther, is
aggressive enough in cutting power that it may be used with a shallow cutting depth.
For a less aggressive combination blade, you may need
to set the depth a little lower to reduce the power demand on the blade.
Choose the orientation of the guide rail to optimize the
board usage. This may have several different options:
Align the cut with the natural wood grain orientation.
Align the cut to avoid defects in the wood.
Align the cut to maximize board width, while eliminating
curved edges.
Place the board on sawhorses or elevate it from a work
table so you do not cut into your work table.
Long Guide Rail or
Joined Shorter Rails
Guide Rail
Positioned to
Maximize Yield
Tree Bark
Panther
Rip Blade
Elevate
Workpiece
16 TS 55 REQ

Crosscutting and Trimming

No other saw on the market can outperform a Festool
for splinter-free, ne crosscutting. With other saws, the
problem is two-fold; getting a straight cut, and achiev­ing a splinter-free cut. The TS55 handles these problems effortlessly.
Tips for Successful Crosscutting
Use the correct blade for the cut.
Crosscutting ne veneered wood should use the ne
crosscut blade. The Alternate-Top-Bevel teeth will slice
the wood bers best, with virtually no chipping.
Crosscutting soft lumber, or lumber-core veneers should
use the ne crosscut blade or the combination blade. With fewer teeth than the ne crosscut blade, the
combination blade will be more aggressive for cutting, yet still provide good chip-free cutting.
Crosscutting thick hardwood lumber, and difcult to cut
lumber should use the coarse crosscut blade. The coarse tooth-count of this blade provides very aggressive cut-
ting of difcult material, but won’t provide as smooth of a nish as the ner blades.
Cutting plastic-veneer countertops or solid surface
materials should use the ne laminate blade. The Triple-
Chip-Grind of this blade lasts longer in hard materials and reduces chipping in man-made materials. The
triple-chip-grind will provide good cuts in wood veneers,
but not as good as the alternate-top-bevel ne crosscut
blade.
For small offcuts, overhang the workpiece from a work
table or saw horses (as shown below). For larger offcuts, support both the primary piece and the offcut.
If the offcut is reusable, use the outrigger splinter guard
to prevent chipping.
Make sure the workpiece is secure. The lightweight door
shown in the example below would slide on the table if not clamped down.
Make sure the guide rail is secure if it can move during the
cut. In the example below, starting the cut with the saw
behind the workpiece can cause the guide rail to tip up and move. (The guide rail clamps are below the guide rail, and not visible.)
Don’t start the cut by plunging the saw into the wood, as
this can lead to tearout at the bottom-back of the saw­blade. Start the cut with the blade down and behind the workpiece (as described on page 11), and advance the saw forward into the cut.
Setting the blade depth too shallow (just barely penetrat-
ing the underside of the workpiece) can cause tearout on the underside of the cut.
Festool Dust
Extractor
Veneer
Door
Workpiece
Clamp
Fine Cross-
cut Blade
Workpiece
Overhangs Table
Supplemental Owner’s Manual 17

Plunge Cutting

CAUTION! Never make a plunge cut without a limit
stop. The back of the sawblade will lift the saw off the guide rail, and will result in a kickback situation.
Plunge cutting is used when the cut does not start at the
edge of the workpiece. Instead, it starts in the middle of the
workpiece, and may continue to the end, or may stop short of the end. There is a wide variety of applications for plunge cuts. Some examples include cutting a countertop for a sink
or appliance, cutting a hardwood oor for inset tile, slotting a
cabinet frame for a pull-out bread board; just to name a few.
Notes
Always use the limit stop when making a plunge cut to
prevent an unexpected kickback (see page 14).
Whenever possible, put the guide rail on the side of the
cut that will be saved. If the guide rail is placed on the
offcut side, you must remember to account for the blade thickness when positioning the guide rail (typically 2.2 mm).
Whenever possible, set the saw depth to its maximum
setting to minimize the amount of material that is not cut
by the blade. Make sure there is nothing below the cut
that you don’t want to cut into.
Full Blade
Depth
Shallow
Blade Depth
Manually cut
the corners.
Mark the beginning and end of the cut (blue tape in
picture below). If the blade is at full depth, there are
index marks on the saw that indicate where the blade is positioned.
For 4-sided cuts where the center section is removed,
support the offcut piece before cutting all four sides to prevent it from breaking the corners. Trim the corners with a handsaw.
To control the position of the saw at both the beginning
and end, you may use a second limit stop (part number
491582) at the front of the saw, as shown below.
Rear blade
position at full depth.
Front blade
position at
full depth.
General Procedure
1. Using pencil lines, tape, or some other means, mark the beginning and end of the cut.
2. Place the guide rail on the cutline.
3. Place the saw on the guide rail, and position it at the start of the cut.
4. Install the limit stop on the guide rail, slide it up to the
back of the saw, and lock it in place.
5. If an optional second limit stop is used, set its position in a similar manner.
6. With the saw rmly seated against the beginning limit
stop, start the saw and slowly plunge it down.
7. Advance the saw through the cut until the end is reached.
Hold the saw fully plunged until the blade comes to a
complete stop.
Never back the saw up, as this can result in a kickback.
Optional 2nd
Limit Stop
Limit Stop
Splinter Guard
Mark the beginning
and end of cut.
18 TS 55 REQ

Cutting Non-Wood Materials

Soft Plastics

Soft plastics such as polypropylene won’t chip, but they will melt. Therefore, a more aggressive cut with the blade set deeper and the motor speed set low will reduce the melting.
Too shallow of a blade depth and the plastic will be more
prone to melting.
Too deep of a blade depth and the teeth marks from the
blade will be more prevalent.
Any of the ne-tooth blades with a slow motor speed will
cut this material with good results.
Clean up the cut edges with a cabinet scraper.

Brittle Plastics

Brittle plastics will both melt and chip, so cutting them is problematic with most other saws. The TS55 works great for cutting this type of material.
Set the blade depth very shallow to reduce chipping.
Set the motor speed very low to reduce melting. Use any one of the ner tooth blades for good results, but
the negative hook aluminum and plastic blade provides the best results.
In clear plastics such as acrylic, if the cut is milky white,
it is a sign of melting. Note how the cut to the right is transparent.

Thin Aluminum

The problem with cutting thin aluminum sheet is that the blade teeth can catch the edge of the sheet, and cut more aggressively than expected. To reduce this, you want the teeth moving nearly parallel with the aluminum surface (a shallow blade depth).
The ultra-thin aluminum shown in the example was cut
best with the ne crosscut blade. The positive hook angle of the blade kept the exible aluminum tight to the guide
rail in a sheering cut.
For slightly thicker, less exible pieces of aluminum, the
negative hook angle, aluminum cutting blade works best because it cuts less aggressively.

Extruded Aluminum

Care needs to be taken when cutting extruded aluminum because the blade may cut more aggressively than expected on the various surfaces of the stock. This is most noticeable with thin-walled extrusions.
With thin-walled extrusions, try to keep the blade teeth
traveling parallel to the walls (see image above) to reduce aggressiveness.
With thick-walled extrusions, try to keep the blade teeth
traveling slightly more perpendicular to the walls (see image to the right) to decrease loading.
Use the negative hook angle, aluminum-cutting blade, and
a moderate to high speed setting.
Be prepared for the blade to catch unexpectedly as the
cutting angle changes with each facet of the extruded shape.
Supplemental Owner’s Manual 19

Maintenance

WARNING! Any maintenance or repair work
that requires opening of the motor or gear hous­ing should be carried out only by an authorized Customer Service Center (see your dealer for information on locating a service center).
WARNING! To reduce the risk of electrocution or
other personal injury, always unplug the tool from the power supply outlet before performing any maintenance or repair work on the tool.

Routine Maintenance

Keep the Saw Clean
Dust and debris from some materials can be extremely
abrasive and cause components within the saw to wear
prematurely. It is important to keep moving parts cleared of
abrasive dusts.
As a general rule, keep the saw clean of all dust and
debris. Even soft-wood dust can be abrasive over time.
Examine all moving parts for dust and debris.
Keep the bevel hinges clean of dust using compressed
air or cotton swabs. If the hinges wear due to abrasive
particles, the saw will not perform optimally.
Keep the blade area and dust extraction port clean of
debris. Debris can cause wear and reduce the effective­ness of the dust extraction system.
Periodically remove the blade cover (5 screws), the blade,
and the inboard arbor ange; and clean any built up
debris from the inside of the saw.
NOTICE: Do not use compressed air to clean the
motor housing of the tool, as you could inject for­eign objects into the motor through the ventilation openings.
NOTICE: Certain cleaning agents and solvents are
harmful to plastic parts. Some of these include, but
are not limited to: Gasoline, Acetone, Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK), Carbonyl Chloride, cleaning solutions
containing Chlorine, Ammonia, and household clean­ers containing Ammonia.
Keep the Sawblades Sharp
Using a dull sawblade can be extremely dangerous and provide poor cut quality.
Never attempt to sharpen a sawblade manually. Special
equipment is necessary to properly sharpen a circular sawblade. An improperly sharpened sawblade can injure the operator, destroy the saw, and damage the workpiece.
The sawblades should be sharpened regularly, and only by
a qualied sharpening service.
Improper grinding of the carbide teeth of a sawblade can
result in serious injury to the saw operator.
Adjust and Inspect the Saw
To ensure the saw is in proper working order, periodically inspect the operation of the saw and ensure it is properly adjusted.
Observe the function of the saw during normal operation.
Unusual sounds are indicative of pending problems.
A reduction in the cut quality indicates the saw is either
improperly adjusted or not functioning properly.
A reduction in cutting power or speed may indicate a dull
blade or a motor problem.
If any of the safety devices on the saw are inoperable
or disabled, immediately stop using the saw and have it serviced.
Periodically inspect the wear bars for the guide rail cams
for wear.
20 TS 55 REQ

Replacing the Guide Rail Splinter Guard

The splinter guard prevents splintering and chipping of the workpiece by holding the top edge of the workpiece down as the teeth of the sawblade move upward against it. The splinter guard needs to be replaced if it becomes damaged or worn.
1. Peel the original splinter guard away from the guide rail.
2. As needed, clean residual adhesive and debris from the guide rail.
3. Peel off the plastic backing from the new splinter guard to expose the adhesive.
4. Without stretching the rubber, carefully place the new
splinter guard on the underside of the guide rail tight to the alignment rib.
5. Make sure the splinter guard is rmly pressed down to

Changing the Motor Brushes

Festool does not condone brush replacement by the end user. Completion of this procedure by an unauthorized service center will void the tool’s warranty.
The motor brushes are graphite bars that provide an electri­cal connection between the motor controller and the rotat-
ing armature. When the brushes have worn past their useful
length, spring loaded wear pins are exposed that separate the brush from the armature contacts. This disables the motor to prevent damage. For a shorter break-in period without excessive arcing, new brushes have ribs that quickly form to the curve of the armature.
CAUTION! Make sure the power cord is unplugged
before beginning this procedure.
the guide rail.
6. Trim the splinter guard as described on page 8.
Splinter
Guard
Friction
Strips
Alignment Rib
Wear Pin
Used Brush
Terminal
Spade
Mounting
New Brush
Tab
Procedure
1. Unplug the saw.
2. Remove the four screws that secure the access cover to the motor, and remove the cover.
Mounting
Screws
3. Lift the 2 wire connectors off the terminals on the brushes.
4. Remove the screw that secures each brush to the motor
housing. Be careful not to drop the screws into the motor.
5. Carefully lift the brushes up to remove them.
6. Insert the new brushes into the motor, and reassemble
the saw by reversing the previous steps.
Mounting
Screw
Wire
Terminal
Wire
Terminal
Mounting
Screw
Thermal
Sensor
NOTICE: Take care to not pull on the red wires for
the thermal sensor, or you may pull the sensor out of its pocket. The sensor is embedded in a thermally conductive paste.
Supplemental Owner’s Manual 21

Adjustments

Matching Multiple Saws to Shared Guide Rails

If you own multiple saws that share common guide rails,
you will want all of your saws calibrated to the same blade position. This will prevent one saw from cutting more guide rail splinter guard than another saw.
Note: Depending on the cutting position of your
existing saw(s), it may be necessary to match your existing saws to the cutting position of the TS 55 REQ. To prevent excessive misadjustment of the saw, the TS 55 REQ limits the blade position adjustment to be within 0.030” of the factory calibration. Older gen­eration saws were not limited, and could potentially
be misadjusted beyond specication. If your existing saws are adjusted beyond specication, they should
be adjusted to match the TS 55 REQ.
1. Place a workpiece on a stable surface, and overhanging the edge so the saw blade can be set to maximum depth.
For best results, the workpiece should be a near-homog-
enous material, such as a tight grained wood or Medium Density Fiberboard (MDF).
The workpiece can be any length, as long as it is at least
slightly longer than the saw.
The thickness of the workpiece is not critical, but you
may have best results if it is between ¾” and 1¼”
2. Securely clamp a guide rail to the workpiece, so that the guide rail will remain stationary as you switch between 2 or more saws.
Clamping the guide rail is important. If the guide rail
moves during this procedure, you will have to start over.
3. Set the blade depth for all saws to their maximum depth.
4. Using the primary saw that you want your other saw(s) to match, cut the workpiece using a full-depth plunge.
Note: Before adjusting a saw, you should rst verify
whether it needs adjustment. Check the saw’s posi­tion using the procedure below, except do not loosen the adjustment screws.
5. Unplug all saws for safety.
6. Slightly loosen the 4 bevel block mounting screws from
the underside of the saw. (These are located on the top
side of TS 55 EQ and TS 75 EQ saws.)
7. Note: The TS 55 REQ FastFix has a second stop position
which is near full depth. To activate it, plunge the blade to full depth, then open the FastFix lever, and release the plunge until it clicks in place.
8. Without moving the guide rail, place the saw to be
adjusted on the guide rail, and press against a forward tooth until it is touching the workpiece edge.
9. Insert a 0.15mm (0.006”) feeler gauge between a rear
tooth and the workpiece, and press the tooth against the
gauge/workpiece. If a feeler gauge is not available, a piece of paper folded in half will equal 0.004” to 0.006”.
Touching
Feeler
Workpiece
Gauge
10. For the TS 55 EQ or TS 75 EQ saws, carefully tighten all 4 bevel block mounting screws; taking care to not move
the blade position in the process.
11. For the TS 55 REQ:
a. Carefully tighten the 2 forward bevel block mounting
screws. These are double-ended screws that are also accessible from above the saw using a 2mm hex key. Note that they turn counterclockwise to tighten from above.
b. To tighten the rear bevel block mounting screws, care-
fully slide the saw to the rear of the guide rail until the screws are accessible from below.
Top Side of
Mounting Screws
Mounting
Screws
Thumbscrew
removed for clarity
22 TS 55 REQ

Installing the Imperial Depth Gauge

The TS 55 REQ comes with an optional imperial depth gauge sticker to replace the standard metric depth gauge.
1. Set the depth gauge pointer to its maximum setting.
2. Using a sharp pencil, carefully mark the zero-depth posi­tion of the depth gauge on the blade housing.
Mark the zero­depth position.
5. Taking care not to kink the sticker, tuck the bottom under the depth gauge pointer.
6. Make sure the sticker is properly aligned along the edge
of the blade cover, peel back more of the paper backing, and press the sticker down.
7. Raise the depth pointer back toward zero, peel back the rest of the paper backing, and nish adhering the rest of
the sticker.
Peel back
more of the
paper backing.
3. Peel back no more than 1/3 of the paper backing from the top of the sticker. Peeling the paper back at a slight angle (as shown) will reduce the likelihood of kinking the sticker later.
Important: Notice that the top of the sticker has the
zero-depth indicator, and the numbers increase as they go down.
4. Carefully position the sticker over the existing gauge with the zero-depth aligned with the pencil mark you made above, and straight along the edge of the blade cover.
Align with
pencil mark.
Paper
Backing
Tuck the
sticker under
the pointer.
Supplemental Owner’s Manual 23

Troubleshooting

Symptom Possible Causes
Motor does not start
e saw makes a “Growling” sound when it is rst turned on or idling.
e saw makes wavy cuts
Saw cuts are burning
Check that the cord is properly plugged into an outlet. Make sure the Plug-it connector is properly inserted and fully tightened. Make sure the outlet has power. Check the circuit breaker or try another outlet. If used with a Festool dust extractor, make sure the selector switch is pointing to “Auto”.
The auxiliary outlet on the dust extractor has power only when the selector is at Auto.
Inspect the power cord (including extension cords) for damage or missing prongs.
The motor brushes may have worn and need replacement.
This is normal operation. Refer to page 15 for more information.
Make sure the guide rail gib cams are properly adjusted. Inspect the blade for damage. Make sure the sole plate is not rocking on the guide rail.
Keep the blade depth consistent during the cut; don’t raise and lower the blade. Forcing an ATB-type blade into the cut too fast can cause the blade to deect.
Make sure to use the correct blade for the material. Make sure the blade is sharp. Make sure the blade is installed correctly (not turning backward).
Reduce the motor speed. If possible, increase the blade depth. Increase your feed speed.
Excessive chipping on the lower edge of the cut
Excessive chipping on the top edge of the cut
e sawblade fails to retract aer a cutting operation
Make sure to use the correct blade for the type of material and type of cut.
A very shallow blade depth can cause chipping on the underside if the teeth are barely
protruding below the surface. Increase the blade depth.
The blade toe-in may be incorrect. Refer to page 22 for more information.
Make sure to use the correct blade for the type of material and type of cut. Inspect the splinter guard. Make sure it is ush with the cut line for its entire length. Materials prone to splintering may splinter more if the blade is set too deep.
The saw requires immediate service, and should be removed from operation. Contact
Festool or your authorized Festool service provider.
24 TS 55 REQ
Supplemental Owner’s Manual 25
Festool USA
400 N. Enterprise Blvd
Lebanon, IN 46052
www.festoolusa.com
Service Questions:
800-554-8741
Application Questions:
888-337-8600
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