THESPRAYADHESIVEUSEDFORAPPLYINGPLAYFIELDCLOTHISEXTREMELYFLAMMABLEANDUNDER
PRESSURE
CHILDREN
AREA
To ensure safety, do not attempt to assemble system without following instructions carefully. Proper and complete assembly, use, and supervision is essential for
proper operation and to reduce the risk of accident or injury. A high probability of serious injury exists if this system is not installed, maintained, and
operate properly.
NOTE: Rails are made with cushion rubber at a height that requires standard 2 1/4” diameter balls.
Your dealer has a complete line Billiard Accessories.
NOTE: This table adds weight to any floor. Be sure floor can withstand this kind of weight. If floor sags,
table will be impossible to level.
• Putty Knife
• Tape Measure
• Sanding Block
• Awl or 8d Nail
• Scissors or Sharp Knife
• 3/8” Open End Wrench
• Hammer (Small Ball Peen Type)
• Carpenters Level or 36” Straight Edge
• 1/2” Open End Wrench
• Rachet with 3/8”, 7/16”,
and 1/2” sockets
2
Figure 1
1. Open hardware kits and sort hardware into "like"
groups using hardware identifier provided in this
manual.
2. Attach two wooden leg panels #2 (be sure wood
grain faces out) to the inside of two leg facades
#1 using six screws #33, six washers #35 and six
locknuts #34 per leg panel. Make sure that
dimension B is at the bottom of the leg panel. (See
Figure 1)
NOTE: Leave all four bottom screws #33
loose until the leg post #3 is installed. Leg
post #3 CANNOT be attached if the four
bottom screws #33 are tight. Tighten finger
tight only.
3. Repeat step 2 to put together other leg assembly.
4. Attach leg posts #3 to the inside face of metal
leg facades #1 on both leg assemblies (from
steps 2 & 3). Use two carriage bolts #30, two
washers #22 and two locknuts #21 per leg
post.
NOTE: There is a set of holes at one end of
the leg posts that are grouped close together. Make sure that these holes go to
the top of the wooden posts. About 1/8
inch of leg posts #3 will extend below the
metal facade #1. (Figure 2)
5. Once the leg post is securely fastened, tighten
the four bottom screws #33 on the leg panels.
This set of holes grouped close
together goes toward the top.
1
1
3
30
33
22
21
Figure 2
1/8''
33
3
6. Before starting this part of
Countersink
goes up.
the assembly, orient beams #4
with ball return attachment holes at
the same end of the table and the
holes marked by arrows in figure 3
facing up.
7. Attach wooden beams #4 to the
leg assemblies (that you just put
together). Use two long bolts #27, two
short bolts #40, six washers #23 and four
locknuts #26 as shown. Repeat for other
beam #4.
NOTE: The two longer bolts #27 go through
top and bottom mounting holes in beam #4, metal
facade #1 and leg post #3. These bolts require a washer
between the bolt and beam #4 as well as between leg post #3 and
the locknut.
NOTE: The two shorter bolts #40 go through the other two mounting
holes in beam #4 and metal facade #1. They only require a washer
between the bolt and beam #4.
Figure 3
Figure 4
8. Place slats #5 and #6 across beams #4 as shown
in figure 4. Make sure the two shorter slats #5 go
on the ends of the beams and that the two longer
slats #6 go in the center as shown. The side of the
slats with the countersink around each hole faces
up. (See detail A).
Detail A
Countersink
goes up.
9. Insert four dowel connectors #39 into the holes in
side of beams #4 just below the slats. Note that the
slot in the end of dowel connectors should be
vertical. (See Figure 4 and Detail A). Start screws
#24 the dowel connectors by hand until you are sure
threads are engaged properly. Do not force them
with power tools. Do not tighten screws completely
yet.
4
10.Square up long slats #6 by measuring diago-
nally as shown in figure 5. Diagonals should be the
same length within 1/8". Check to make sure the
table is square. If frame is not square, the adjustment can be made by moving table beams #4 in
opposite directions. Usually only a slight adjustment if any should be required.
4
11.Once frame is square, tighten screws #24
holding slats to beams. Note: Be sure the heads
of screws #24 are flush with or below the top
of the slats.
6
4
SAME
DIMENSION
(within 1/8")
LEVELING BASE FRAME
Use a carpenter's level to level table as close as possible.
It is easier to do it now rather than after the playfield has been
attached to the frame.
12. Determine the highest corner of the frame by placing the
level in following two ways:
!Check frame from end to end as shown in figure 6.
!Then check the table diagonally as shown in figure 7.
6
Figure 5
13. Once you have determined the highest corner, raise
other three corners by shimming. To do this place
one shim at a time under the lower corners until the
table is level. Leg shim stock is provided in the
slatron bed kit and must be cut to the desired size.
Shims must be placed directly under leg post.
Figure 6
Figure 7
5
UNBOXING THE SLATE (Slate tables only:)
AFTER CRATE PARTS ARE REMOVED, BEND NAILS OR STAPLES OVER WITH A HAMMER
CA UTION
14. It is now time to uncrate the slate pieces.
With a claw hammer or crow bar, pry off
crate top at the notched corner. (See
figure 8) BE CAREFUL NOT TO
DAMAGE SLATE INSIDE! SLATE IS
BRITTLE AND CAN BE EASILY
DAMAGED IF HIT OR PRIED AGAINST!
15. Remove the front rail of the crate. Slide the
slate out the front of the crate. (Figure 9)
AT ONCE! USE CAUTION WHEN HANDLING CRATE PARTS!
Figure 9
Figure 8
UNBOXING THE SLATRON (Slatron tables only)
16.It is now time to unbox the slatronpieces. BE CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE SLATRON INSIDE! SLATRON
CAN BE EASILY DAMAGED IF HIT
OR PRIED AGAINST! (See Figure
10)
If the edges of your Slatron has
"fuzz" on it, lightly sand to remove
with sandpaper provided in kit No.
5A-6191-00.
IMPORTANT!
The sheets of slatron may not be completely flat when
Figure 10
removed from the shipping carton. This is normal. Once
they have been placed on the table frame and securely
fastened down, they will become straight and flat.
6
Loading...
+ 12 hidden pages
You need points to download manuals.
1 point = 1 manual.
You can buy points or you can get point for every manual you upload.