RIPPED SPEAKER
FUZZ PEDAL
Congratulations on your purchase of the Ripped Speaker, an entirely analog
emulator of the earliest type of guitar distortion! At low fuzz settings, The Ripped
Speaker is capable of reproducing a pristine, slightly cracked tone similar to a
maxed out, low watt amplifier in a 1950s blues club. With the fuzz knob dialed up,
the pedal attains a searing, fully saturated tone which can tear that same room in
half. Finally, by adjusting the RIP knob, the Ripped Speaker can travel from full
harmonic expressiveness to a sputtering gate for shrunken, choked tones in a
more modern character. The Ripped Speaker features true bypass.
TRIVIA: The story of intentionally damaging amplifiers to achieve desirable new
tones originates from an accident which occurred in the early 1950s to
guitarist/singer, Ike Turner. While unloading gear before a show, Turner’s band
dropped one of their amps from the tour-van on to the sidewalk and in doing so,
perforated the speaker. They didn’t realize what had occurred until plugging in to
play, but ultimately Turner decided he liked the sound, so the amp was later used
in recording sessions.
CONTROLS
FUZZ Knob — Controls the amount of input gain that goes into the fuzz circuit.
Turn FUZZ clockwise to go from light to heavy fuzz.
RIP Knob — The RIP knob is a bias control that varies the amount of clipping at
either the top or bottom of the signal waveform. The least compressed and open
sound is with RIP set to noon. As you turn RIP in either direction from noon, the
character of the fuzz is altered: becoming choked or gated, creating interesting
textures and sputtering effects.
TONE Knob — Controls an active tilt-shift type EQ to further shape your fuzz
tone. Set TONE to noon and the EQ is flat. As you turn TONE counterclockwise,
the frequency response gets darker with more pronounced lows and less highs.
Clockwise yields a brighter tone with more highs and rolled back lows.
VOL Knob — Adjusts the output volume of the Ripped Speaker.
FOOTSWITCH and LED — The footswitch toggles the Ripped Speaker between
effect and true bypass mode. The LED lights when the effect is engaged.
CONNECTIONS & POWER
INPUT Jack — This 1/4” jack is the input to the Ripped Speaker. Plug your
instrument into here. The input impedance is 1MΩ.
AMP Jack — This 1/4” jack is the Ripped Speaker’s output. Connect this to the
input of your next effect or amplifier. Output impedance is 100Ω.
PWR Jack — The Ripped Speaker can be powered by a 9V battery or you can use
an optional 9VDC AC Adapter capable of delivering at least 25mA to the 9V power
jack, such as the EHX9.6DC-200. The AC Adapter must have a center negative
plug. The battery may be left in or taken out when using an AC Adapter. The
Ripped Speaker’s current draw is 10mA at 9VDC.
Please Note: Using the wrong adapter or a plug with the wrong polarity
may damage your Ripped Speaker and void the warranty.
CHANGING THE BATTERY
To change the 9V battery, you must remove the 4 screws on the bottom of the
Ripped Speaker. Once the screws are removed, you can take off the bottom plate
and change the battery. Please do not touch the circuit board while the bottom
plate is off, or you risk damaging a component.