EasyHeat Warm Tiles DMC Cable Instruction Sheet

Electric Floor Warming Cable for Uncoupling Membrane
Installation Instructions
Installation Instructions
English 3-8
Directives d’installation
Française 9-15
Instrucciones de instalación
©2015 EasyHeat www.easyheat.com 14183-001 Rev 1
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Electric Floor Warming Cable for Uncoupling Membrane
Installation Instructions
Thank you for choosing the EasyHeat® Warm Tiles® Electric Floor
Warming Cable for Uncoupling Membrane for oor warming. This product has been designed to gently warm ooring materials such
as marble, ceramic, glass and porcelain tile; slate; granite and poured or dimensional stone, in addition to laminate and engineered
hardwood products. Warm Tiles greatly enhances the comfort level of these beautiful ooring materials. The Electric Floor Warming Cable is designed to be installed in oors in conjunction with uncoupling membranes. The Electric Floor Warming Cable may usually be installed in steps leading to baths, shower, etc. – check with Electrical Inspector prior to installation.
Warm Tiles oor warming systems utilize state-of-the-art heating cables, hardware and electrical controls for an economical and long lasting oor warming system. Warm Tiles systems are designed for use
inside residential and commercial buildings of standard North American
construction.
Electric Floor Warming Cables are not designed as a primary source of
space heating for any room in which it is installed.
SKILL LEVEL
It is recommended that Warm Tiles systems be installed by professional
electricians, or by skilled “Do-It-Yourselfers” who have adequate knowledge of ooring and electrical wiring, and in accordance with
all applicable national and local electrical and building codes and
ordinances, regulations and inspection procedures. Electrical inspection may be required during and/or after system installation. Consult with your local electrical inspection authority before beginning installation.
Keep this booklet for future reference, and pass on to any future users
of the system.
TILE FLOORING CONSIDERATIONS
For optimum performance, the top of the heating cables should be a
maximum of 3/4” (19 mm) below the nished oor surface. Cables can also be installed in steps, including risers, leading to a bath/shower area in most jurisdictions, but the cables must remain completely embedded in mortar; check with your local electrical inspector before installing in steps.
Cables can be installed in tiled showers or other wet areas, although it is recommended that you check with your local electrical inspector rst to verify that this application is allowed in your jurisdiction. Waterproof membranes are usually used in these areas and in other areas where large water spills may occur. These membranes are typically composed of a waterproof thin lm (max. 0.080” (2 mm) thick).
Electric Floor Warming Cables are also suitable for applications under
oating laminate and engineered wood oors that are glued or snapped together. Warm Tiles may not be used with any type of “nail down” ooring, as the nails will damage the cable. WarmTiles cables may not be installed under natural wood oors because the heat from the cables will cause these oors to warp, crack and/or discolor. Before beginning installation, check with the ooring manufacturer to verify that their materials are suitable for electric radiant underoor heating.
WARNING
Electric Shock/Fire Hazard
Read the following warnings and instructions provided before attempting installation. Failure to do so could result in cable failure, improper system operation, property damage, bodily injury or death. Failure to follow the warnings and instructions will also void the warranty.
Use only uncoupling membranes that are recommended by the membrane manufacturer for having heating cable installed within them. If you are unsure about the membrane’s rated temperature or ability to accommodate heating cable, please consult with the membrane’s manufacturer. Electric Floor Warming Cables can be installed in conjunction with only uncoupling membranes that have been designed to be installed with some type of mortar or cement under and over the membrane.
Electrical inspection may be required before, during and/or after installation of the Warm Tiles system. Contact our local electrical inspection authority for more information BEFORE BEGINNING INSTALLATION.
Do not energize coiled heating cable – the cable will overheat. Heating Cable must not touch, cross or overlap itself at any point
and cable must not be closer than 1½” (38mm) to adjacent cable. This could cause the cable to overheat.
Do not install heating cable under any type of nailed-down or stapled ooring. Floor nails and staples can damage the cable resulting in exposed live electrical parts and/or result in the cable overheating.
Do not drill or otherwise cut into oors that have Warm Tiles cables – this could result in contact with live electrical parts or could damage the cable causing it to overheat.
Do not use the Warm Tiles system for other types of applications,
such as snow melting or roof de-icing – the cable is not rated for these types of applications. Contact EasyHeat for professional advice for recommendations on other products for these applications.
Do not alter the length of the heating cable to suit a oor area larger or smaller than the recommended range for that cable. Only the Cold Lead (black cable connected to the heating cable) may be cut to suit hook-up in the Electrical Connection Box (ECB).
The entire Membrane, heating cable, the Cold Lead Splice and Tail
Splice must be embedded in a cement-based underlayment. The heating cable could overheat if not entirely embedded in cement­based underlayment. Never place any unused cable and in a wall cavity – the cable will overheat.
Use caution when trowelling mortar/cement over heating cables – trowels can become sharp and may cut heating cable which could damage the ground braid, electrical insulation and/or expose live heating element.
Cables must be at least 0.25” (6.5mm) below oor surface; if cables are exposed, they could be damaged which would expose live parts (shock hazard) and/or cause the cable to overheat (re hazard).
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When installing cable in oors that are routinely expected to be wet, such as tile showers, a waterproong membrane must be installed ABOVE the cables to keep them dry. The cables are not rated for wet locations, and water could seep into the cable and result in cable failure, shock hazard and/or re.
It is recommended that the circuit supplying the heating cable
have ground fault protection; this is mandatory by electrical code for most applications in most regions. In cases where the oor is routinely expected to be wet, such as tiled showers, a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI), or equivalent, must be installed
Additionally, per US National Electrical Code, installation in some
rooms, such as bathrooms and kitchens, may require that this product be installed on a circuit protected by a separate Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI). Consult your local electrical and/ or building authorities to determine the specic ground fault requirements for your application prior to installation. If you are
unsure that your circuit has ground fault protection, consult an
electrician.
If the ground fault protection circuit trips during normal operation,
and cannot be reset, there is likely a fault in the heating cable. No attempt should be made to re-energize the system. Under no circumstances should the ground fault protection be bypassed – contact EasyHeat for advice.
Do not bend the heating cable at right angles – this could damage the electrical insulation; minimum bending radius is ¾.” (19 mm)
Do not use staples to afx cold lead, heating cables or thermostat sensor wire, as this could puncture the heating cable resulting in short circuit or exposed live electrical parts. Use only the cable strapping provided with the system, and only staple according to the instructions.
Do not place more than six consecutive/adjacent runs of heating cable at 1 ½” (38 mm) spacing; doing so will cause the oor area to overheat.
Only connect cables to the rated voltage – do not use higher voltages as the increased current will cause cable to overheat.
Ensure that all electrical control devices, such as thermostats, are properly rated for the heating cable load. Do not overload these devices as they will overheat or otherwise fail.
Ensure that copper grounding braid material is directly connected
to electrical ground – do not cut the ground braid. If the ground braid is not connected to ground, the heating cable will not be grounded and may not provide the required protection against short circuits or electrical shocks.
These instructions have been prepared for use with standard North American building construction practices. If your building
construction differs, consult an appropriate electrical professional.
INSTALLATION PLANNING
Carefully plan your installation before beginning.
Use standard cable spacing for rooms above heated areas. (See page 6 for details of cable spacing layouts). Or use dense cable spacing for rooms above unheated areas, concrete slabs or high heat loss areas. You can use alternate cable spacing for using up excess cable or compensating for cable shortage.
• Ensure you have selected the appropriate cable and spacing (Standard for 12 watts/sq ft, Alternate for 15 watts/sq ft, Dense for 18 watts/sq ft).
• Ensure the power supply (120 or 240 VAC) is adequate for the selected cable.
• Ensure that ground fault protection will be provided for the cable – many oor warming thermostats are provided with ground fault protection.
• Verify that the control method you have selected for the cable is appropriate.
• Verify that the uncoupling membrane that will be installed is appropriate and that it will not result in the heating cable being more than ¾” (19mm) from the nished surface of the oor.
• Check that the nominal distance between the channels of the uncoupling membrane is 1-1/4” (30 mm) on-center; if this is not the case, adjustment in the cable spacing may be required to ensure appropriate heat is applied to the oor.
• Check that the width of the channels in the uncoupling membrane is 0.2” (5 mm) and that the DMC cable ts snuggly into the channel
and is sufciently secured in place.
• Clear the oor area of all debris and sharp edges prior to beginning installation.
• Obtain appropriate permits prior to beginning installation.
• Before installing the cable, measure the resistance of the Heating
Cable and optional Sensor Wire to ensure that no damage has
occurred to either cable during installation.
• To measure heating cable resistance, connect the two ohm meter leads to each of the Cold Lead conductors. The resistance will be between 10 and 250 ohms.
• To measure sensor resistance, again connect the two ohm meter leads to each of the sensor wire conductors. The resistance will be between 7 and 14 k-ohms. If the resistance of either cable does not fall within the specied range, please contact Easy Heat toll free at (800-537-4732) and DO NOT energize the heating cables.
• If each resistance reading is within the specied range, you may be ready to proceed with cable installation. We also recommend an insulation resistance test: Connect a Mega ohms meter between the copper grounding braid and the two conductors connected together.
• Set the tester at 500 V (minimum) and measure the insulation resistance. The resistance must be 10 Megohms minimum. This test
assures that the cable has not been damaged during shipment or
subsequent handling.
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INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
Installation of Warm Tile system is done in sequence as described below. Follow these steps carefully.
1.1 Electrical rough-in: New construction
For new construction it is recommended that rough-in be completed before drywall/sheetrock installation.
Determine the appropriate location and height for the Electrical Connection Box* (ECB). Consider proximity to other outlet boxes,
ease of routing Cold Lead to the Heated Area, and accessibility of
the heating controller during normal use. Typically the cold lead enters the same wall cavity in which the ECB is located. Install the ECB, adjusting box projection to suit expected wall covering (Figure 1a).
Figure 1c. “Do Not Remove” tags installation
1.2 Electrical rough-in: Remodeling project
For a remodeling project, complete the electrical rough-in as follows:
• Remove base moldings, and drywall only as required, in areas where sh holes are to be drilled, exposing upper edge of sill plate. Drill a horizontal ¾” (19 mm) diameter hole through the sill plate approximately 1½” (38 mm) deep. If installation is planned for two heating cables, a second sh hole should be drilled a minimum of 4” (100 mm) from the rst, but within the same cavity (Figure 1d).
Figure 1a. ECB installation
• Prepare a sh hole, rst by drilling a horizontal ¾” (19 mm) diameter hole through the sill plate approximately 1½” (38 mm) deep. Drill a second ¾” (19 mm) diameter hole vertically through the sill plate connecting to the rst hole. If installation will require two cables, a second sh hole should be drilled a minimum of 4” from the rst but preferably within the same wall cavity. Clear sh holes of wood chips and install cable guards over holes (these are usually required to be sourced separately) over the holes. Install a sh cord through the sill plate, pull through the wall cavity, and secure in the ECB. ONE ADDITIONAL FISH CORD WILL BE REQUIRED IF THE INSTALLATION WILL INCLUDE A FLOOR TEMPERATURE SENSOR (Figure 1b).
Figure 1b. Fish hole preparation
• Fasten “Do Not Remove” tags to sh cords at the still plate holes (Figure 1c). Install Power Supply Wiring, but do NOT energize or connect to the heating controller until the nished ooring has been installed. Install conduit if required (consult with your local inspection authority). Drywall installation can now be completed and heating cable can be installed later. Typically requires a 15 cubic inch box for single cable installations. Multiple cable sets may require larger boxes. Consult your local electrical authority.
Determine the appropriate location and height for the Electrical
Connection Box* (ECB). Consider proximity to other outlet boxes,
ease of routing Cold Lead to the Heated Area, and accessibility to
a planned heating controller. The cold lead should enter the same wall cavity in which the ECB is located. Consult your local electrical authority.
Figure 1d. Fish hole preparation
• Use a chisel to completely notch wood from the sill plate above each hole. Clear sh holes of wood chips and install cable guards over the holes (Figure 1e). Use ECB as template to mark outline on wall at appropriate height. Carefully cut out the minimum possible amount of drywall to prevent the need for wall repair after heating controller has been installed. Install a sh cord through the sill plate, pull through the wall cavity and secure in the ECB.
• ONE ADDITIONAL FISH CORD WILL BE REQUIRED IF THE INSTALLATION WILL INCLUDE A FLOOR TEMPERATURE SENSOR. Install Power Supply Wiring in the ECB, but do NOT energize or connect to the heating controller. Install conduit, if required (consult with your local electrical inspection authority).* Typically requires a 15 cubic inch box for single cable installations. Multiple cable sets may require larger boxes. Consult your local electrical authority.
Figure 1e. Fish hole clearing
2.1 Verify size of heated area
• Conrm the cable selected will provide the correct coverage by measuring your room oor and determining the square footage to be heated. This is your Heated Area. Areas under cabinets or xtures (toilets, sinks, tubs, etc.) should NOT be included. Heating cables may be installed under tiled shower surfaces provided the cables are embedded in a cement-based underlayment and covered by an approved water impermeable membrane. Consult your local electrical and/or building inspection authorities for more information. Using the heated area, supply voltage (120V or 240V) and the choice of Standard, Alternating or Dense Heating Cable Spacing, Verify that you have the recommended cable set for your application using the cable selection chart on the box.
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2.2 Install Uncoupling Membrane to the oor and Plan cable routing
• Ensure your uncoupling membrane is suitable for use with radiant heating products. Install the Membrane to the oor according to its manufacturer’s installation instructions. Mark the heated area on the membrane using an appropriate marker. Carefully measure and locate the mid-point of the Heated Area (NOTE: This may differ from the linear mid-point from one end of the room to the other). This will be a useful reference line later, as it should coincide with the “Half of Cable Marker”. Using a heavy-tip marker, straight edge and square, mark the ‘half of heated area line.
• Plan the cable layout on the membrane. It may be helpful to outline the cable path on the membrane using a suitable marker. Carefully consider the location of Low Trafc Areas. Allow sufcient space along walls and cabinets for the heating cable Start of Run. Heating cable should be within 1-1/2” (38 mm) of any vanity kick plate. The Border Dimension may vary between 1-1/2” (38 mm) to 6” (15 cm) depending on the cable coverage range and the size of your room. Usually, it is best to start with 3” (75 mm) and adjust if required.
2.3 Pull cold lead and sensor wire into ECB; secure the Cold Lead Splice
• It is important to properly de-coil the cable to prevent twisting. Insert a rod (such as a broom handle) through the cable spool hub and support on a ladder or equivalent. Pull the Cold Lead from the spool, and using sh cords, pull it through the ¾” (19 mm) hole in the sill plate, up through the wall cavity and into the ECB. The cable should be pulled until the factory Cold Lead Splice on the oor is approximately 12” (30 cm) from the sill plate hole.
WARNING: DO NOT ALLOW ANY PORTION OF HEATING CABLE
TO ENTER WALL CAVITY AREA. ALL HEATING CABLE MUST REMAIN IN THE FLOOR/STEPS.
• Allow at least 6” (15 cm) of cold lead to project from the ECB. If you are using a oor temperature controller use the sh cords to pull the Sensor Wire through the sill plate hole, up the wall cavity and into the ECB. Allow at least 6” (15 cm) of sensor wire to project from the ECB. Temporarily secure the Sensor Wire at the oor – it will get installed in the oor later in Step 2.6.
Due to the larger cable diameter of the cold lead splice, cut out the
mat material under the splice to eliminate any possible interference
with the tile. Secure cold lead splice and cold lead to the oor using plastic clips. Place clips over the cold lead and the heating cable at the splice and SECURE them to the oor. ENSURE THAT STAPLES DO NOT PENETRATE THE CABLE! (Figure 2a)
(Figure 2b)
Figure 2c. Secure cable
Standard Spacing: Cables are spaced 3 channels apart according to
Figure 2d - this results in spacing of 3-3/4” (90mm) between cables and provides 12 Watts/sq.ft.
Figure 2d. Standard cable spacing
Alternate Spacing: Cables are spaced alternately 3 channels
apart and 2 channels apart according to Figure 2e - this results in
spacing of 3-3/4” (90mm) and 2-1/2” (60mm) between cables and provides 14.5 Watts/sq.ft.
Figure 2e. Alternate cable spacing
Dense Spacing: Cables are spaced 2 channels apart according to
Figure 2f - this results in spacing of 2-1/2” (60mm) between cables and provides 18 Watts/sq.ft.
Figure 2f. Dense cable spacing
Figure 2a —2b. Securing cold lead splice
2.4 Install cable in the membrane
• Embed Heating Cable (White section) in membrane channels according to Figure 2c. Use a roller to secure cable in place. Install cable runs as follows:
NOTE: HEATING CABLE MUST BE INSTALLED IN THE MEMBERANE IN THE MANNER DESCRIBED. FAILURE TO DO SO MAY RESULT IN IMPROPER SYSTEM OPERATION. If any adjustment in the cable spacing is required, carefully pull out heating cable and reposition. THE DISTANCE BETWEEN ADJACENT CABLE RUNS MUST NOT BE LESS THAN 1 ½” (38 mm).
2.5 If “half of cable” marker does not meet at “half heated area”
• When you reach the “Half of Cable” marker, pause to evaluate the
remaining area. If the “Half of Cable” Marker appears BEFORE the Half-of-Area-Line previously marked on the oor, there will likely be a cable shortage at the planned end of run, the amount of which depends on how far before the line the marker appears. For a cable
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shortage, consider the low trafc areas and Border Dimension. Cable can be conserved by avoiding placement in low trafc areas or by increasing the border dimension. The border may be increased to a maximum of 6”. To do this, carefully remove the cable from the mat and increase the border dimensions, but no further than 6” (15 cm) from the wall; this will reduce cable usage. Re-install the cable according to the method outlined in Step 2.4. Do NOT increase cable spacing by more than 3-3/4” (90mm) as this will result in a cold oor! Once the cable layout is complete, ensure all cable runs are sufciently secured to prevent interference during mortar trowelling.
• If the “Half of Cable” Marker appears AFTER the Half-of­Heated-Area- Line previously marked on the oor, there will likely be a cable surplus at the planned End of Run, the amount of which depends on how far past the line the marker appears. Surplus cable may be used up by routing it into Low Trafc Areas. You may also reduce the cable spacing to 2-1/2” (60mm) between adjacent runs. Both methods will help to consume the surplus cable. THE DISTANCE BETWEEN ADJACENT CABLE RUNS MUST NOT BE LESS THAN 1 ½” (38 mm).
2.6 Secure sensor wire, tail splice and any loose cable
• If a oor temperature sensor will be used, position the Sensor Wire midway between two adjacent Heating Cable runs. The end of the sensor wire should extend at least 6” (15 cm) from the Return Loop and lay in the centre of spacing between two heating cables. Embed the sensor wire in the membrane. After installing the cable completely, follow step 2.3 to create housing for the tail splice and secure the splice in place. (Figure 2b)
2.7 Verify resistance of heating cable & sensor wire
• Before proceeding with nal oor nishing, measure the resistance
of the Heating Cable and optional Sensor Wire to ensure that no
damage has occurred to either cable during installation. To measure heating cable resistance, connect the ohm-meter leads to the Cold Lead conductors. The resistance will be between 10 and 250 ohms.
To measure sensor resistance, again connect the ohm meter leads
to the sensor wire conductors. The resistance will be between 7 and 14 k-ohms. If the resistance of either cable does not fall within the specied range, please contact Easy Heat toll free at (800/537-4732) and DO NOT energize the heating cables. If each resistance reading is within the specied range, you may be ready to proceed with oor nishing.
NOTE: Your system Installation may require an electrical inspection at this time (prior to proceeding with oor nishing). Consult with your local electrical and/or building inspection authorities.
3.1 Proceed with ooring installation
• Once the cables have been installed in the membrane on the oor, mortar is applied over the heating cable and membrane such that cables are completely embedded in mortar. Apply sufcient mortar in accordance with membrane manufacturer’s installation instructions. Complete ooring installation in usual manner. For
optimum performance, the top of the heating cables must not be
more than 3/4” (19 mm) below the nished oor surface. After mortar is dry, repeat test of system as per 2.7 and record results in log.
4.1 Connect power supply wiring and cold lead conductors to heating controller
Installation of heating controller and associated wiring must be in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions and all applicable national and local electrical codes and ordinances.
• Prepare for power supply wiring connections as follows: Ensure the power supply branch circuit has been disconnected and de­energized.
Prepare the Cold Lead for connection to the heating controller: carefully remove 6” (15 cm) of the black outer jacket. AVOID DAMAGING THE UNDERLYING COPPER GROUND BRAID! Separate braid wires from the cold lead conductors and tightly twist braid strands together into a single stranded conductor and con¬nect to ground in the ECB. Strip ½” (13 mm) of insulation from each of the cold lead conductors.
• Trim excess length from the power supply wiring as necessary and connect.
• Connect power supply wiring and DMC cold leads to the controller following the associated manufacturer’s instructions. Do not energize the system until the mortar/grout materials of the nished oor have fully cured. This will ensure that the setting of the mortar/ grout will not be compromised by the heat from the cables – refer to the mortar/grout manufacturers’ instructions for cure times. Once curing is complete, energize controller and verify oor warming. Typical oor temperature setting is 29°C (85°F). Most oors will take about an hour to fully come up to set temperature – most thermostat “auto” programs take this into account. If manually adjusting thermostat, allow extra time for the oor to come up to temperature.
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TROUBLESHOOTING TIPS
If the overall oor surface feels unusually cool after the system has been energized for more than three hours, verify that the heating controller is correctly installed and functioning properly; check with the associated heating controller’s operating manual and/or contact the manufacturer. If the overall oor surface feels unusually hot when the system is energized, or if the circuit breaker trips when the system is energized, the cable may be damaged. De-energize the system immediately and contact EasyHeat at 800/537-4732 for assistance. Note: In the event that the heating cable has been damaged, the fault can typically be located and eld repaired with minimal ooring removal. The EasyHeat DFTRK repair kit has the components needed to splice the heating cable.
Electric Floor Warming Cable System Resistance Log
Installer:____________________ Date:______________
Cable Model
Number
Sensor Wire (7-14 K Ohms)
Product Specications System Resistance (10-500 Ohms) Insulation Resistance Test
Watts Amps
Initial (Out of
Package)
Before
installing oor
covering
Final
Initial (Out of
Package)
(Minimum 10 M Ohm)
Before
installing oor
covering
Final
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