Electric Floor Warming Cable for Uncoupling Membrane
Installation Instructions
Thank you for choosing the EasyHeat® Warm Tiles® Electric Floor
Warming Cable for Uncoupling Membrane for oor warming. This
product has been designed to gently warm ooring materials such
as marble, ceramic, glass and porcelain tile; slate; granite and
poured or dimensional stone, in addition to laminate and engineered
hardwood products. Warm Tiles greatly enhances the comfort level of
these beautiful ooring materials. The Electric Floor Warming Cable
is designed to be installed in oors in conjunction with uncoupling
membranes. The Electric Floor Warming Cable may usually be installed
in steps leading to baths, shower, etc. – check with Electrical Inspector
prior to installation.
Warm Tiles oor warming systems utilize state-of-the-art heating
cables, hardware and electrical controls for an economical and long
lasting oor warming system. Warm Tiles systems are designed for use
inside residential and commercial buildings of standard North American
construction.
Electric Floor Warming Cables are not designed as a primary source of
space heating for any room in which it is installed.
SKILL LEVEL
It is recommended that Warm Tiles systems be installed by professional
electricians, or by skilled “Do-It-Yourselfers” who have adequate
knowledge of ooring and electrical wiring, and in accordance with
all applicable national and local electrical and building codes and
ordinances, regulations and inspection procedures. Electrical inspection
may be required during and/or after system installation. Consult with
your local electrical inspection authority before beginning installation.
Keep this booklet for future reference, and pass on to any future users
of the system.
TILE FLOORING CONSIDERATIONS
For optimum performance, the top of the heating cables should be a
maximum of 3/4” (19 mm) below the nished oor surface. Cables can
also be installed in steps, including risers, leading to a bath/shower area
in most jurisdictions, but the cables must remain completely embedded
in mortar; check with your local electrical inspector before installing in
steps.
Cables can be installed in tiled showers or other wet areas, although it
is recommended that you check with your local electrical inspector rst
to verify that this application is allowed in your jurisdiction. Waterproof
membranes are usually used in these areas and in other areas where
large water spills may occur. These membranes are typically composed
of a waterproof thin lm (max. 0.080” (2 mm) thick).
Electric Floor Warming Cables are also suitable for applications under
oating laminate and engineered wood oors that are glued or snapped
together. Warm Tiles may not be used with any type of “nail down”
ooring, as the nails will damage the cable. WarmTiles cables may not
be installed under natural wood oors because the heat from the cables
will cause these oors to warp, crack and/or discolor. Before beginning
installation, check with the ooring manufacturer to verify that their
materials are suitable for electric radiant underoor heating.
WARNING
Electric Shock/Fire Hazard
Read the following warnings and instructions provided before
attempting installation. Failure to do so could result in cable failure,
improper system operation, property damage, bodily injury or death.
Failure to follow the warnings and instructions will also void the
warranty.
Use only uncoupling membranes that are recommended by the
membrane manufacturer for having heating cable installed within
them. If you are unsure about the membrane’s rated temperature
or ability to accommodate heating cable, please consult with the
membrane’s manufacturer. Electric Floor Warming Cables can be
installed in conjunction with only uncoupling membranes that have
been designed to be installed with some type of mortar or cement
under and over the membrane.
Electrical inspection may be required before, during and/or after
installation of the Warm Tiles system. Contact our local electrical
inspection authority for more information BEFORE BEGINNING
INSTALLATION.
Do not energize coiled heating cable – the cable will overheat.
Heating Cable must not touch, cross or overlap itself at any point
and cable must not be closer than 1½” (38mm) to adjacent cable.
This could cause the cable to overheat.
Do not install heating cable under any type of nailed-down or
stapled ooring. Floor nails and staples can damage the cable
resulting in exposed live electrical parts and/or result in the cable
overheating.
Do not drill or otherwise cut into oors that have Warm Tiles
cables – this could result in contact with live electrical parts or
could damage the cable causing it to overheat.
Do not use the Warm Tiles system for other types of applications,
such as snow melting or roof de-icing – the cable is not rated for
these types of applications. Contact EasyHeat for professional
advice for recommendations on other products for these
applications.
Do not alter the length of the heating cable to suit a oor area
larger or smaller than the recommended range for that cable. Only
the Cold Lead (black cable connected to the heating cable) may be
cut to suit hook-up in the Electrical Connection Box (ECB).
The entire Membrane, heating cable, the Cold Lead Splice and Tail
Splice must be embedded in a cement-based underlayment. The
heating cable could overheat if not entirely embedded in cementbased underlayment. Never place any unused cable and in a wall
cavity – the cable will overheat.
Use caution when trowelling mortar/cement over heating cables –
trowels can become sharp and may cut heating cable which could
damage the ground braid, electrical insulation and/or expose live
heating element.
Cables must be at least 0.25” (6.5mm) below oor surface; if
cables are exposed, they could be damaged which would expose
live parts (shock hazard) and/or cause the cable to overheat
(re hazard).
When installing cable in oors that are routinely expected to be
wet, such as tile showers, a waterproong membrane must be
installed ABOVE the cables to keep them dry. The cables are not
rated for wet locations, and water could seep into the cable and
result in cable failure, shock hazard and/or re.
It is recommended that the circuit supplying the heating cable
have ground fault protection; this is mandatory by electrical code
for most applications in most regions. In cases where the oor
is routinely expected to be wet, such as tiled showers, a Ground
Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI), or equivalent, must be installed
Additionally, per US National Electrical Code, installation in some
rooms, such as bathrooms and kitchens, may require that this
product be installed on a circuit protected by a separate Ground
Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI). Consult your local electrical and/
or building authorities to determine the specic ground fault
requirements for your application prior to installation. If you are
unsure that your circuit has ground fault protection, consult an
electrician.
If the ground fault protection circuit trips during normal operation,
and cannot be reset, there is likely a fault in the heating cable.
No attempt should be made to re-energize the system. Under no
circumstances should the ground fault protection be bypassed –
contact EasyHeat for advice.
Do not bend the heating cable at right angles – this could damage
the electrical insulation; minimum bending radius is ¾.” (19 mm)
Do not use staples to afx cold lead, heating cables or thermostat
sensor wire, as this could puncture the heating cable resulting in
short circuit or exposed live electrical parts. Use only the cable
strapping provided with the system, and only staple according to
the instructions.
Do not place more than six consecutive/adjacent runs of heating
cable at 1 ½” (38 mm) spacing; doing so will cause the oor area
to overheat.
Only connect cables to the rated voltage – do not use higher
voltages as the increased current will cause cable to overheat.
Ensure that all electrical control devices, such as thermostats, are
properly rated for the heating cable load. Do not overload these
devices as they will overheat or otherwise fail.
Ensure that copper grounding braid material is directly connected
to electrical ground – do not cut the ground braid. If the ground
braid is not connected to ground, the heating cable will not be
grounded and may not provide the required protection against
short circuits or electrical shocks.
These instructions have been prepared for use with standard
North American building construction practices. If your building
construction differs, consult an appropriate electrical professional.
INSTALLATION PLANNING
Carefully plan your installation before beginning.
• Use standard cable spacing for rooms above heated areas. (See
page 6 for details of cable spacing layouts). Or use dense cable spacing for rooms above unheated areas, concrete slabs or high
heat loss areas. You can use alternate cable spacing for using up
excess cable or compensating for cable shortage.
• Ensure you have selected the appropriate cable and spacing
(Standard for 12 watts/sq ft, Alternate for 15 watts/sq ft, Dense for
18 watts/sq ft).
• Ensure the power supply (120 or 240 VAC) is adequate for the
selected cable.
• Ensure that ground fault protection will be provided for the cable
– many oor warming thermostats are provided with ground fault
protection.
• Verify that the control method you have selected for the cable is
appropriate.
• Verify that the uncoupling membrane that will be installed is
appropriate and that it will not result in the heating cable being more
than ¾” (19mm) from the nished surface of the oor.
• Check that the nominal distance between the channels of the
uncoupling membrane is 1-1/4” (30 mm) on-center; if this is not the
case, adjustment in the cable spacing may be required to ensure
appropriate heat is applied to the oor.
• Check that the width of the channels in the uncoupling membrane
is 0.2” (5 mm) and that the DMC cable ts snuggly into the channel
and is sufciently secured in place.
• Clear the oor area of all debris and sharp edges prior to beginning
installation.
• Obtain appropriate permits prior to beginning installation.
• Before installing the cable, measure the resistance of the Heating
Cable and optional Sensor Wire to ensure that no damage has
occurred to either cable during installation.
• To measure heating cable resistance, connect the two ohm meter
leads to each of the Cold Lead conductors. The resistance will be
between 10 and 250 ohms.
• To measure sensor resistance, again connect the two ohm meter
leads to each of the sensor wire conductors. The resistance will be
between 7 and 14 k-ohms. If the resistance of either cable does not
fall within the specied range, please contact Easy Heat toll free at
(800-537-4732) and DO NOT energize the heating cables.
• If each resistance reading is within the specied range, you may be
ready to proceed with cable installation. We also recommend an
insulation resistance test: Connect a Mega ohms meter between
the copper grounding braid and the two conductors connected
together.
• Set the tester at 500 V (minimum) and measure the insulation
resistance. The resistance must be 10 Megohms minimum. This test
assures that the cable has not been damaged during shipment or
Installation of Warm Tile system is done in sequence as described
below. Follow these steps carefully.
1.1 Electrical rough-in: New construction
For new construction it is recommended that rough-in be completed
before drywall/sheetrock installation.
• Determine the appropriate location and height for the Electrical
Connection Box* (ECB). Consider proximity to other outlet boxes,
ease of routing Cold Lead to the Heated Area, and accessibility of
the heating controller during normal use. Typically the cold lead
enters the same wall cavity in which the ECB is located. Install the
ECB, adjusting box projection to suit expected wall covering (Figure 1a).
Figure 1c. “Do Not Remove” tags installation
1.2 Electrical rough-in: Remodeling project
For a remodeling project, complete the electrical rough-in
as follows:
• Remove base moldings, and drywall only as required, in areas
where sh holes are to be drilled, exposing upper edge of sill plate.
Drill a horizontal ¾” (19 mm) diameter hole through the sill plate
approximately 1½” (38 mm) deep. If installation is planned for two
heating cables, a second sh hole should be drilled a minimum of 4”
(100 mm) from the rst, but within the same cavity (Figure 1d).
Figure 1a. ECB installation
• Prepare a sh hole, rst by drilling a horizontal ¾” (19 mm) diameter
hole through the sill plate approximately 1½” (38 mm) deep. Drill a
second ¾” (19 mm) diameter hole vertically through the sill plate
connecting to the rst hole. If installation will require two cables,
a second sh hole should be drilled a minimum of 4” from the
rst but preferably within the same wall cavity. Clear sh holes of
wood chips and install cable guards over holes (these are usually
required to be sourced separately) over the holes. Install a sh cord
through the sill plate, pull through the wall cavity, and secure in the
ECB. ONE ADDITIONAL FISH CORD WILL BE REQUIRED IF THE
INSTALLATION WILL INCLUDE A FLOOR TEMPERATURE SENSOR
(Figure 1b).
Figure 1b. Fish hole preparation
• Fasten “Do Not Remove” tags to sh cords at the still plate holes
(Figure 1c). Install Power Supply Wiring, but do NOT energize
or connect to the heating controller until the nished ooring has
been installed. Install conduit if required (consult with your local
inspection authority). Drywall installation can now be completed
and heating cable can be installed later. Typically requires a 15
cubic inch box for single cable installations. Multiple cable sets
may require larger boxes. Consult your local electrical authority.
Determine the appropriate location and height for the Electrical
Connection Box* (ECB). Consider proximity to other outlet boxes,
ease of routing Cold Lead to the Heated Area, and accessibility to
a planned heating controller. The cold lead should enter the same
wall cavity in which the ECB is located. Consult your local electrical
authority.
Figure 1d. Fish hole preparation
• Use a chisel to completely notch wood from the sill plate above
each hole. Clear sh holes of wood chips and install cable guards
over the holes (Figure 1e). Use ECB as template to mark outline on
wall at appropriate height. Carefully cut out the minimum possible
amount of drywall to prevent the need for wall repair after heating
controller has been installed. Install a sh cord through the sill plate,
pull through the wall cavity and secure in the ECB.
• ONE ADDITIONAL FISH CORD WILL BE REQUIRED IF THE
INSTALLATION WILL INCLUDE A FLOOR TEMPERATURE SENSOR.
Install Power Supply Wiring in the ECB, but do NOT energize or
connect to the heating controller. Install conduit, if required (consult
with your local electrical inspection authority).* Typically requires a
15 cubic inch box for single cable installations. Multiple cable sets
may require larger boxes. Consult your local electrical authority.
Figure 1e. Fish hole clearing
2.1 Verify size of heated area
• Conrm the cable selected will provide the correct coverage by
measuring your room oor and determining the square footage
to be heated. This is your Heated Area. Areas under cabinets or
xtures (toilets, sinks, tubs, etc.) should NOT be included. Heating
cables may be installed under tiled shower surfaces provided the
cables are embedded in a cement-based underlayment and covered
by an approved water impermeable membrane. Consult your local
electrical and/or building inspection authorities for more information.
Using the heated area, supply voltage (120V or 240V) and the choice
of Standard, Alternating or Dense Heating Cable Spacing, Verify that
you have the recommended cable set for your application using the
cable selection chart on the box.
2.2 Install Uncoupling Membrane to the oor and Plan cable routing
• Ensure your uncoupling membrane is suitable for use with radiant
heating products. Install the Membrane to the oor according to its
manufacturer’s installation instructions. Mark the heated area on
the membrane using an appropriate marker. Carefully measure and
locate the mid-point of the Heated Area (NOTE: This may differ from
the linear mid-point from one end of the room to the other). This will
be a useful reference line later, as it should coincide with the “Half of
Cable Marker”. Using a heavy-tip marker, straight edge and square,
mark the ‘half of heated area line.
• Plan the cable layout on the membrane. It may be helpful to outline
the cable path on the membrane using a suitable marker. Carefully
consider the location of Low Trafc Areas. Allow sufcient space
along walls and cabinets for the heating cable Start of Run. Heating
cable should be within 1-1/2” (38 mm) of any vanity kick plate. The
Border Dimension may vary between 1-1/2” (38 mm) to 6” (15 cm)
depending on the cable coverage range and the size of your room.
Usually, it is best to start with 3” (75 mm) and adjust if required.
2.3 Pull cold lead and sensor wire into ECB; secure the Cold
Lead Splice
• It is important to properly de-coil the cable to prevent twisting.
Insert a rod (such as a broom handle) through the cable spool hub
and support on a ladder or equivalent. Pull the Cold Lead from the
spool, and using sh cords, pull it through the ¾” (19 mm) hole in
the sill plate, up through the wall cavity and into the ECB. The cable
should be pulled until the factory Cold Lead Splice on the oor is
approximately 12” (30 cm) from the sill plate hole.
WARNING: DO NOT ALLOW ANY PORTION OF HEATING CABLE
TO ENTER WALL CAVITY AREA. ALL HEATING CABLE MUST
REMAIN IN THE FLOOR/STEPS.
• Allow at least 6” (15 cm) of cold lead to project from the ECB. If you
are using a oor temperature controller use the sh cords to pull the
Sensor Wire through the sill plate hole, up the wall cavity and into
the ECB. Allow at least 6” (15 cm) of sensor wire to project from the
ECB. Temporarily secure the Sensor Wire at the oor – it will get
installed in the oor later in Step 2.6.
• Due to the larger cable diameter of the cold lead splice, cut out the
mat material under the splice to eliminate any possible interference
with the tile. Secure cold lead splice and cold lead to the oor using
plastic clips. Place clips over the cold lead and the heating cable at
the splice and SECURE them to the oor. ENSURE THAT STAPLES
DO NOT PENETRATE THE CABLE! (Figure 2a)
(Figure 2b)
Figure 2c. Secure cable
• Standard Spacing: Cables are spaced 3 channels apart according to
Figure 2d - this results in spacing of 3-3/4” (90mm) between cables
and provides 12 Watts/sq.ft.
Figure 2d. Standard cable spacing
• Alternate Spacing: Cables are spaced alternately 3 channels
apart and 2 channels apart according to Figure 2e - this results in
spacing of 3-3/4” (90mm) and 2-1/2” (60mm) between cables and
provides 14.5 Watts/sq.ft.
Figure 2e. Alternate cable spacing
• Dense Spacing: Cables are spaced 2 channels apart according to
Figure 2f - this results in spacing of 2-1/2” (60mm) between cables
and provides 18 Watts/sq.ft.
Figure 2f. Dense cable spacing
Figure 2a —2b. Securing cold lead splice
2.4 Install cable in the membrane
• Embed Heating Cable (White section) in membrane channels
according to Figure 2c. Use a roller to secure cable in place. Install
cable runs as follows:
NOTE: HEATING CABLE MUST BE INSTALLED IN THE
MEMBERANE IN THE MANNER DESCRIBED. FAILURE TO DO
SO MAY RESULT IN IMPROPER SYSTEM OPERATION. If any
adjustment in the cable spacing is required, carefully pull out heating
cable and reposition. THE DISTANCE BETWEEN ADJACENT
CABLE RUNS MUST NOT BE LESS THAN 1 ½” (38 mm).
2.5 If “half of cable” marker does not meet at “half heated area”
• When you reach the “Half of Cable” marker, pause to evaluate the
remaining area. If the “Half of Cable” Marker appears BEFORE the
Half-of-Area-Line previously marked on the oor, there will likely be
a cable shortage at the planned end of run, the amount of which
depends on how far before the line the marker appears. For a cable
shortage, consider the low trafc areas and Border Dimension.
Cable can be conserved by avoiding placement in low trafc areas
or by increasing the border dimension. The border may be increased
to a maximum of 6”. To do this, carefully remove the cable from the
mat and increase the border dimensions, but no further than 6” (15
cm) from the wall; this will reduce cable usage. Re-install the cable
according to the method outlined in Step 2.4. Do NOT increase
cable spacing by more than 3-3/4” (90mm) as this will result in
a cold oor! Once the cable layout is complete, ensure all cable
runs are sufciently secured to prevent interference during mortar
trowelling.
• If the “Half of Cable” Marker appears AFTER the Half-ofHeated-Area- Line previously marked on the oor, there will likely
be a cable surplus at the planned End of Run, the amount of which
depends on how far past the line the marker appears. Surplus
cable may be used up by routing it into Low Trafc Areas. You may
also reduce the cable spacing to 2-1/2” (60mm) between adjacent
runs. Both methods will help to consume the surplus cable. THE
DISTANCE BETWEEN ADJACENT CABLE RUNS MUST NOT BE
LESS THAN 1 ½” (38 mm).
2.6 Secure sensor wire, tail splice and any loose cable
• If a oor temperature sensor will be used, position the Sensor Wire
midway between two adjacent Heating Cable runs. The end of
the sensor wire should extend at least 6” (15 cm) from the Return
Loop and lay in the centre of spacing between two heating cables.
Embed the sensor wire in the membrane. After installing the cable
completely, follow step 2.3 to create housing for the tail splice and
secure the splice in place. (Figure 2b)
2.7 Verify resistance of heating cable & sensor wire
• Before proceeding with nal oor nishing, measure the resistance
of the Heating Cable and optional Sensor Wire to ensure that no
damage has occurred to either cable during installation. To measure
heating cable resistance, connect the ohm-meter leads to the Cold
Lead conductors. The resistance will be between 10 and 250 ohms.
To measure sensor resistance, again connect the ohm meter leads
to the sensor wire conductors. The resistance will be between 7 and
14 k-ohms. If the resistance of either cable does not fall within the
specied range, please contact Easy Heat toll free at (800/537-4732)
and DO NOT energize the heating cables. If each resistance reading
is within the specied range, you may be ready to proceed with oor
nishing.
NOTE: Your system Installation may require an electrical inspection
at this time (prior to proceeding with oor nishing). Consult with
your local electrical and/or building inspection authorities.
3.1 Proceed with ooring installation
• Once the cables have been installed in the membrane on the oor,
mortar is applied over the heating cable and membrane such that
cables are completely embedded in mortar. Apply sufcient
mortar in accordance with membrane manufacturer’s installation
instructions. Complete ooring installation in usual manner. For
optimum performance, the top of the heating cables must not be
more than 3/4” (19 mm) below the nished oor surface. After
mortar is dry, repeat test of system as per 2.7 and record results in
log.
4.1 Connect power supply wiring and cold lead conductors to
heating controller
Installation of heating controller and associated wiring must be in
accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions and all applicable
national and local electrical codes and ordinances.
• Prepare for power supply wiring connections as follows: Ensure
the power supply branch circuit has been disconnected and deenergized.
• Prepare the Cold Lead for connection to the heating controller:
carefully remove 6” (15 cm) of the black outer jacket. AVOID
DAMAGING THE UNDERLYING COPPER GROUND BRAID!
Separate braid wires from the cold lead conductors and tightly
twist braid strands together into a single stranded conductor and
con¬nect to ground in the ECB. Strip ½” (13 mm) of insulation from
each of the cold lead conductors.
• Trim excess length from the power supply wiring as necessary and
connect.
• Connect power supply wiring and DMC cold leads to the controller
following the associated manufacturer’s instructions. Do not
energize the system until the mortar/grout materials of the nished
oor have fully cured. This will ensure that the setting of the mortar/
grout will not be compromised by the heat from the cables – refer to
the mortar/grout manufacturers’ instructions for cure times. Once
curing is complete, energize controller and verify oor warming.
Typical oor temperature setting is 29°C (85°F). Most oors will
take about an hour to fully come up to set temperature – most
thermostat “auto” programs take this into account. If manually
adjusting thermostat, allow extra time for the oor to come up to
temperature.
If the overall oor surface feels unusually cool after the system has been energized for more than three hours, verify that the heating controller is
correctly installed and functioning properly; check with the associated heating controller’s operating manual and/or contact the manufacturer. If the
overall oor surface feels unusually hot when the system is energized, or if the circuit breaker trips when the system is energized, the cable may be
damaged. De-energize the system immediately and contact EasyHeat at 800/537-4732 for assistance. Note: In the event that the heating cable has
been damaged, the fault can typically be located and eld repaired with minimal ooring removal. The EasyHeat DFTRK repair kit has the components
needed to splice the heating cable.
Electric Floor Warming Cable System Resistance Log