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Index ..................................................................................................81
iii
Notes
iv
Introduction
Thank you for buying an Eagle sonar! Your unit is a high-quality sonar designed for both professional and novice fishermen. All Eagle sonars have an automatic mode that finds and displays the bottom, fish,
underwater structure and more – right out of the box. All you have to
do is press the on (
However, if you want to fine-tune your unit, press the
The FishEasy 240 family has several powerful features you can control by scrolling through easy-to-use menus with the arrow and menu
keys.
To get started with your Eagle sonar, first read the installation section.
It contains instructions for mounting the sonar unit, the transducer
and any optional accessories, such as a speed sensor.
Following recommended installation practices will pay off in optimum
performance of your Eagle sonar. Improper installation can cause problems down the road, especially if the transducer is badly mounted.
After you've read the installation instructions, install the unit and accessories. Then, read the rest of the manual. The more you know about
your sonar, the better it will work for you.
Take advantage of the Simulator feature. It allows you to practice operating your sonar before you get it in the water. And when you finally head
for your favorite fishing hole, take this manual along for reference.
PWR) key.
MENU UP key.
Capabilities and Specifications: FishEasy 240 Family
General
Case size: .........................5.8" H x 4.3" W x 2.5" D (14.7 cm H x 10.8 cm
W x 6.6 cm D) sealed, waterproof; suitable for
saltwater use.
1
Display: ............................High-contrast Film SuperTwist LCD. Diago-
nal viewing area: 3.5" (8.9 cm).
Resolution: ......................240 pixels (vert.) x 160 pixels (horiz.) resolu-
tion; 38,400 total pixels
Backlighting: ..................Amber LED backlit screen and keypad for
night use.
Input power: ...................10 to 17 volts DC.
Current drain: ................ 170 ma lights off; 240 ma lights on.
Back-up memory:...........Built-in memory stores sonar settings when
unit is turned off.
Sonar
Frequency: ......................200 kHz.
Transducers:...................A Skimmer
transducer comes packed with
your unit. Its 20° cone angle offers a wide
fish detection area of up to 60º with high sensitivity settings. Operates at boat speeds up
to 70 mph (61 kts).
Transmitter:....................1500 watts peak-to-peak power (typical); 188
watts RMS power (typical).
Sonar sounding
depth capability:............800 feet (244 meters). Actual capability de-
pends on transducer configuration and installation, bottom composition and water conditions. All sonar units typically read deeper in
fresh water than in salt water.
Depth display: ................Continuous digital readout.
Audible alarms:..............Deep/shallow/fish.
Automatic ranging: ....... Yes, with instant screen updates.
2
Auto bottom track: ........ Yes.
Zoom bottom track:....... Yes.
Split-screen zoom: ......... Yes.
Surface water temp: .....Yes, built into transducer. Optional external
temperature sensor or combo speed/temp
sensor available.
Speed/distance log: .......Yes, with optional speed sensor.
This manual covers the FishEasy 240 and FishEasy 240 Portable. Both
units operate the same way. The only difference between the two is
that the portable unit includes a portable transducer and other items
that enable portable use.
NOTICE!
The storage temperature for your unit is from -4 degrees to +167
degrees Fahrenheit (-20 degrees to +75 degrees Celsius). Extended
storage in temperatures higher or lower than specified will damage
the liquid crystal display in your unit. This type of damage is not
covered by the warranty. For more information, contact the factory's Customer Service Department; phone numbers are inside the
manual's back cover.
How Sonar Works
Sonar has been around since the 1940s, so if you already know how it
works, skip ahead to the next segment on the typographical conventions
used in this manual. But, if you've never owned a sonar fish finder, this
segment will tell you the underwater basics.
Sonar is an abbreviation for SO
ogy developed during World War II for tracking enemy submarines. A
sonar consists of a transmitter, transducer, receiver and display. In
simple terms, here's how it finds the bottom, or the fish:
und NAvigation and Ranging, a technol-
3
The transmitter emits an electrical impulse, which the transducer converts into a sound wave and sends into the water. (The sound frequency
can't be heard by humans or fish.) The sound wave strikes an object
(fish, structure, bottom) and bounces back to the transducer, which
converts the sound back into an electrical signal.
The receiver amplifies this return signal, or echo, and sends it to the
display, where an image of the object appears on the scrolling sonar
chart. The sonar's microprocessor calculates the time lapse between the
transmitted signal and echo return to determine the distance to the
object. The whole process repeats itself several times each second.
4
Transducer Installation
Preparations
The following shows the recommended sequence for installing the
transducer:
CAUTION:
You should read over this entire installation section before drilling any holes in your vehicle or vessel!
1. Determine the approximate location for the sonar unit, so you can
plan how and where to route the cables for the transducer and power.
This will help you make sure you have enough cable length for the desired configuration.
2. Determine the approximate location for the transducer and its cable
route.
3. Determine the location of your battery or other power connection,
along with the power cable route.
4. Install the transducer and route the transducer cable to the sonar
unit.
5. Route the power cable from the unit's location to an appropriate
power source and connect it there.
6. Connect the transducer/power cable to the unit and mount the sonar
unit on the bracket.
Installation
These instructions will help you install your Skimmer
transom, on a trolling motor or inside a hull. Please read all instructions
before proceeding with any installation.
Your Skimmer transducer typically comes packaged with a one-piece
stainless steel bracket for mounting it to the transom of your boat. The
transducer on a
5
trolling motor mount uses a one-piece plastic bracket with an adjustable strap.
These are all "kick-up" mounting brackets. They help prevent damage if
the transducer strikes an object while the boat is moving. If the transducer does "kick-up," the bracket can easily be pushed back into place
without tools.
Depending on your sonar unit's connectors, your transducer cable may
also have the sonar unit's power cable attached to it. If that is the case,
be sure to install the transducer first, before connecting the power cable
to a power source. See the instructions later in this manual for connecting the power cable to a battery or other power supply.
Read these instructions carefully before attempting the installation.
Determine which of the mounting positions is right for your boat. Use
extreme care if mounting the transducer inside the hull, because once
it is epoxied into position, the transducer usually cannot be removed.
Remember, the transducer installation is the most critical part
of a sonar installation.
Recommended Tools and supplies
If you prefer the option of routing the cable through the transom, you
will need a 5/8" drill bit. Each transom mount requires use of a high quality, marine grade above- or below-waterline caulking compound.
NOTE:
The following installation types also call for these recommended tools
and required supplies (supplies are not included):
Single-frequency transom installations
Tools include: two adjustable wrenches, drill, #29 (0.136") drill bit, flathead screwdriver (for mounting screws and their pilot holes). Supplies:
none.
6
Single-frequency trolling motor installations
Tools: two adjustable wrenches, flat-head screwdriver. Supplies: plastic
cable ties.
Shoot-through hull installations
Tools: these will vary depending on your hull's composition. Consult your
boat dealer or manufacturer. Supplies: 100 grit sandpaper, specially formulated epoxy adhesive available from LEI (see ordering information
on the inside back cover). A sandwich hull also requires polyester resin.
Selecting a Transducer Location
1. The location must be in the water at all times, at all operating speeds.
2. The transducer must be placed in a location that has a smooth flow
of water at all times. If the transducer is not placed in a smooth flow of
water, interference caused by bubbles and turbulence will show on the
sonar's display in the form of random lines or dots whenever the boat is
moving.
NOTE:
Some aluminum boats with strakes or ribs on the outside of the
hull create large amounts of turbulence at high speed. These boats
typically have large outboard motors capable of propelling the boat
at speeds faster than 35 mph. Typically, a good transom location on
aluminum boats is between the ribs closest to the engine.
3. The transducer should be installed with its face pointing straight
down, if possible. For shoot-thru applications: Many popular fishing boat
hulls have a flat keel pad that offers a good mounting surface. On vee
hulls, try to place the transducer where the deadrise is 10° or less.
7
p
Deadrise less than 10°
Pad
Left, vee pad hull; right, vee hull. A pod style transducer is shown
here, but the principle is the same for Skimmers inside a hull.
Strakes
4. If the transducer is mounted on the transom, make sure it doesn't
interfere with the trailer or hauling of the boat. Also, don't mount it
closer than approximately one foot from the engine's lower unit. This
will prevent cavitation (bubble) interference with propeller operation.
5. If possible, route the transducer cable away from other wiring on the
boat. Electrical noise from engine wiring, bilge pumps and aerators can
be displayed on the sonar's screen. Use caution when routing the transducer cable around these wires.
CAUTION: Clamp the transducer cable to transom near
the transducer. This will help
revent the transducer from
entering the boat if it is
knocked off at high speed.
Good location
Good
location
Poor angle
Good and poor transducer locations.
Poor location
Good location
8
How low should you go?
For most situations, you should install your Skimmer transducer so
that its centerline is level with the bottom of the boat hull. This will
usually give you the best combination of smooth water flow and protection from bangs and bumps.
Transducer
centerline
Align transducer centerline with hull bottom.
Transom
Hull bottom
However, there are times when you may need to adjust the transducer
slightly higher or lower. (The slots in the mounting brackets allow you
to loosen the screws and slide the transducer up or down.) If you frequently lose bottom signal lock while running at high speed, the transducer may be coming out of the water as you cross waves or wakes.
Move the transducer a little lower to help prevent this.
If you cruise or fish around lots of structure and cover, your transducer
may be frequently kicking up from object strikes. If you wish, you may
move the transducer a little higher for more protection.
There are two extremes you should avoid. Never let the edge of the
mounting bracket extend below the bottom of the hull. Never let the
bottom – the face – of the transducer rise above the bottom of the hull.
Shoot-Thru-Hull vs. Transom Mounting
In a shoot-thru-hull installation, the transducer is bonded to the inside
of the hull with epoxy. The sonar "ping" signal actually passes through
the hull and into the water. This differs from a bolt-thru-hull installa-
9
tion (often called simply "thru-hull"). In that case, a hole is cut in the
hull and a specially designed transducer is mounted through the hull
with a threaded shaft and nut. This puts the transducer in direct contact with the water.
Typically, shoot-thru-hull installations give excellent high speed operation and good to excellent depth capability. There is no possibility of
damage from floating objects. It can't be knocked off when docking or
loading on the trailer.
However, the shoot-thru-hull installation does have its drawbacks.
First, some loss of sensitivity does occur, even on the best hulls. This
varies from hull to hull, even from different installations on the same
hull. This is caused by differences in hull lay-up and construction.
Second, the transducer angle cannot be adjusted for the best fish
arches. This can be a problem on hulls that sit with the bow high when
at rest or at slow trolling speeds.
Third, a transducer CAN NOT shoot through wood and metal hulls.
Those hulls require either a transom mount or a thru-hull installation.
Fourth, a Skimmer transducer with a built-in temp sensor will show
only the temperature of the bilge, not the water surface temp.
Follow the procedure listed in the shoot-thru-hull installation section
at the end of this lesson to determine if you can satisfactorily shoot
through the hull.
Transom Transducer Assembly and Mounting
The best way to install these transducers is to loosely assemble all of the
parts first, place the transducer's bracket against the transom and see if
you can move the transducer so that it's parallel with the ground.
1. Assembling the bracket. Press the two small plastic ratchets into
the sides of the metal bracket as shown in the following illustration.
Notice there are letters molded into each ratchet. Place each ratchet
into the bracket with the letter "A" aligned with the dot stamped into
10
the metal bracket. This position sets the transducer's coarse angle adjustment for a 14° transom. Most outboard and stern-drive transoms
have a 14° angle.
Dot
Align plastic ratchets in bracket.
2. Aligning the transducer on the transom. Slide the transducer
between the two ratchets. Temporarily slide the bolt though the transducer assembly and hold it against the transom. Looking at the transducer from the side, check to see if it will adjust so that its face is parallel to the ground. If it does, then the "A" position is correct for your
hull.
If the transducer's face isn't parallel with the ground, remove the
transducer and ratchets from the bracket. Place the ratchets into the
holes in the bracket with the letter "B" aligned with the dot stamped in
the bracket.
Reassemble the transducer and bracket and place them against the
transom. Again, check to see if you can move the transducer so it's parallel with the ground. If you can, then go to step 3. If it doesn't, repeat
step 2, but use a different alignment letter until you can place the
transducer on the transom correctly.
11
Ratchets
Insert bolt and check transducer position on transom.
3. Assembling the transducer. Once you determine the correct posi-
tion for the ratchets, assemble the transducer as shown in the following
figure. Don't tighten the lock nut at this time.
Nut
Rubber
washers
Assemble transducer and bracket.
Metal
washer
12
Metal washer
Bolt
4. Drilling mounting holes. Hold the transducer and bracket assembly against the transom. The transducer should be roughly parallel to
the ground. The transducer's centerline should be in line with the bottom of the hull. Don't let the bracket extend below the hull!
Mark the center of each slot for the mounting screw pilot holes. You
will drill one hole in the center of each slot.
Drill the holes. Use the #29 bit (for the #10 screws).
Transom
Transom
Position transducer mount on transom and mark mounting holes.
Side view shown at left and seen from above at right.
5. Attaching transducer to transom. Remove the transducer from
the bracket and re-assemble it with the cable passing through the
bracket over the bolt as shown in the following figures.
13
Route cable over bolt and through bracket.
Side view shown at left and seen from above at right.
Attach the transducer to the transom. Slide the transducer up or down
until it's aligned properly with the bottom of the hull as shown in the
preceding and following figures. Tighten the bracket's mounting
screws, sealing them with the caulking compound.
Adjust the transducer so that it's parallel to the ground and tighten the
nut until it touches the outer washer, then add 1/4 turn. Don't over tighten the lock nut! If you do, the transducer won't "kick-up" if it
strikes an object in the water.
14
p
Bottom
of
hull
Dee
Flat-bottom hull
Align transducer centerline with hull bottom
and attach to transom.
-"vee" hull
6. Route the transducer cable through or over the transom to
the sonar unit. Make sure to leave some slack in the cable at the
transducer. If possible, route the transducer cable away from other wiring on the boat. Electrical noise from the engine's wiring, bilge pumps,
VHF radio wires and cables, and aerators can be picked up by the sonar. Use caution when routing the transducer cable around these
wires.
WARNING:
Clamp the transducer cable to the transom close to the
transducer. This can prevent the transducer from entering the boat if it is knocked off at high speed.
If you need to drill a hole in the transom to pass the connector through,
the required hole size is 5/8". (If you intend to route an additional speed
or temp sensor cable through the same hole, you will need a 1" (25.4
mm) drill bit instead.)
Caution:
If you drill a hole in the transom for the cable, make sure it is
15
r
located above the waterline. After installation, be sure to seal the
hole with the same marine grade above- or below-waterline sealant used for the mounting screws.
7. Make a test run to determine the results. If the bottom is lost at
high speed, or if noise appears on the display, try sliding the trans-
ducer bracket down. This puts the transducer deeper into the water,
hopefully below the turbulence causing the noise. Don't allow the
transducer bracket to go below the bottom of the hull!
Trolling Motor Bracket Installation
(single-frequency only)
1. Attach the optional TMB-S bracket to the transducer as shown in the
following figure, using the hardware supplied with the transducer.
(Note: The internal tooth washer is supplied with the TMB-S.)
TMB-S bracket
Bolt
Internal tooth washer
Nut
Flat washe
Attach motor mounting bracket to transducer.
2. Slide the adjustable strap supplied with the TMB-S through the slot
in the transducer bracket and wrap it around the trolling motor. Position the transducer to aim straight down when the motor is in the water. Tighten the strap securely.
16
3. Route the transducer cable alongside the trolling motor shaft. Use
plastic ties (not included) to attach the transducer cable to the trolling
motor shaft. Make sure there is enough slack in the cable for the motor
to turn freely. Route the cable to the sonar unit and the transducer is
ready for use.
Transducer mounted on trolling motor, side view.
Transducer Orientation and Fish Arches
If you do not get good fish arches on your display, it could be because
the transducer is not parallel with the ground when the boat is at rest
in the water or at slow trolling speeds.
17
Transducer aimed
too far back
Full fish arch
Transducer angles and their effects on fish arches.
Partial fish arches
Transducer aimed
too far forward
Proper transducer angle
If the arch slopes up – but not back down – then the front of the transducer is too high and needs to be lowered. If only the back half of the
arch is printed, then the nose of the transducer is angled too far down
and needs to be raised.
18
NOTE:
Periodically wash the transducer's face with soap and water to remove any oil film. Oil and dirt on the face will reduce the sensitivity or may even prevent operation.
Shoot-Thru-Hull Preparation
Hulls With Flotation Materials
The transducer installation inside a fiberglass hull must be in an area
that does not have air bubbles in the resin or separated fiberglass layers. The sonar signal must pass through solid fiberglass. A successful
transducer installation can be made on hulls with flotation materials
(such as plywood, balsa wood or foam) between layers of fiberglass if
the material is removed from the chosen area. See the figure below.
WARNING:
Do not remove any material from your inner hull unless
you know the hull's composition. Careless grinding or
cutting on your hull can result in damage that could
sink your boat. Contact your boat dealer or manufacturer to confirm your hull specifications.
Fill with resin
Flotation material
Epoxy to hull first
Epoxy the transducer to a solid portion of the hull.
19
Fill with resin
Inner hull
Outer hull
For example, some (but not all) manufacturers use a layer of fiberglass,
then a core of balsa wood, finishing with an outer layer of fiberglass.
Removing the inner layer of fiberglass and the balsa wood core exposes
the outer layer of fiberglass. The transducer can then be epoxied directly to the outer layer of fiberglass. After the epoxy cures for 24
hours, fill the remaining space with polyester resin. When the job is
finished, the hull is watertight and structurally sound. Remember, the
sonar signal must pass through solid fiberglass. Any air bubbles in the
fiberglass or the epoxy will reduce or eliminate the sonar signals.
Testing Determines Best Location
Ideally, the shoot-thru transducer should be installed as close to the
transom as possible, close to the centerline. This will give you the best
performance during high speed maneuvers.
Transducer location (high speed)
Transducer location (trolling speed)
Shoot-thru-hull transducer locations for
high speed or trolling speed operation.
1. Anchor the boat in about 30 feet of water. Add a little water to the sump
of the boat. Plug the transducer into the sonar unit, turn it on, then hold
the transducer over the side of the boat in the water. Adjust the sensitivity and range controls until a second bottom echo is seen on the display.
(You'll need to turn off Auto Sensitivity, Auto Depth Range and ASP.
Try a range setting that is two to three times the water depth. The harder
20
(more rocky) the bottom, the easier it will be to get a second bottom signal.) Don't touch the controls once they've been set.
True bottom
Second bottom
Manual range setting
Example of a second bottom signal. Unit is in 30 feet of water, with
range set at 80 feet and sensitivity set at 87 percent.
2. Next, take the transducer out of the water and place it in the water in
the sump of the boat, face down. (The transducer face is shown in the
figure on the following page.) Notice how the signal strength decreases.
The second bottom signal will probably disappear and the bottom signal
intensity will likely decrease.
3. Now move the transducer around to find the best location with the
strongest possible bottom signal. If you find a spot with an acceptable
bottom signal, mark the location and move on to step 4.
If you can't get an acceptable bottom signal, try turning up the sensitivity
by three or five keystrokes and then move the transducer around once
more. If you find a spot that works, mark it and move on to step 4.
If you have to turn up sensitivity by more than five keystrokes to get a
good signal, the transducer should be mounted on the outside of the
21
hull. This is especially true if you have to turn sensitivity all the way
up to get a decent bottom signal.
4. Most people can get good results by following steps 1 through 3, so this
step is optional. If you want to make an extra effort to be absolutely sure
that your selected location will work under all conditions, make a test run
with the boat on plane and observe the bottom signal. You'll need to figure
some way to prop the transducer into position while you make your test
run. (A brick or two might be sufficient to hold it in place.)
5. When you're satisfied with a location, mark it and proceed with
the installation.
Shoot-Thru-Hull Installation
If you are installing the transducer on a hull with floatation material
sandwiched within the hull, refer to the text "Hulls with Flotation Materials" beginning on page 19.
1. Make sure the area is clean, dry and free of oil or grease, then sand
both the inside surface of the hull and the face of the transducer with
100 grit sandpaper. The sanded hull area should be about 1-1/2 times
the diameter of the transducer. The surface of the hull must be flat so
the entire transducer face is in contact with the hull prior to bonding.
After sanding, clean the hull and transducer with rubbing alcohol to
remove any sanding debris.
22
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