Dyna 2000i-P
Reprogrammable Digital
Ignition System
For
Harley-Davidson Motorcycles
! DESCRIPTION
The DYNA 2000i Digital Ignition is designed to replace the factory ignition module and sensor used on 1983 and later Harley-Davidson EVO motors. It is also an ideal upgrade for early electronic and breaker-point systems that require a mechanical advancer. The entire ignition fits inside the engine in place of the cam sensor or point plate and connects directly to the coils without the use of an external module.
The 2000i will operate in singleor dual-fire mode and features 8 advance curves and 4 rpm limits to fit a broad range of engine builds and riding styles. For nitrous and turbo equipped bikes, a single stage retard is provided.
A tach output is included, eliminating the need for an additional adapter when operating in single fire mode. Two diagnostic indicators assist in trouble shooting and static timing.
The 2000i can be easily reprogrammed with custom advance curves and rpm limits using the optional DIPK-1 programming kit. Engine run-time data can also be downloaded with the programming kit, allowing detailed analysis of engine operating conditions.
! INSTALLATION NOTES
**IMPORTANT** Coil primary resistance must be in the range of 2.5 to 3.5 ohms.
**IMPORTANT** Carbon, graphite or spiral core type suppression spark plug wires are required to reduce interference. Do not use metal core wires.
**IMPORTANT ** The 2000i requires the gold colored timing rotor used on 1983 and later EVO motors (HD part no. 32402-83). The earlier silver colored cup will not work properly. Bikes originally equipped with points (except distributors) or early electronic ignition will accept the later model cup without modification.
! DUAL FIRE INSTALLATION
Single plug: use Dynatek DC6-1 or stock coil. Dual plug: use two DC2-1 coils wired in series (equals 3 ohms).
1.Remove the stock ignition module. Remove the outer and inner covers on the cam position sensor. Mark the engine case near the middle of the sensor. Remove the cam position sensor. The pins may be removed from the connector housing by slowly but firmly pulling the wires from the rear of the connector.
2.Feed the wires of the 2000i through the hole in the engine case and seat the ignition. Rotate until the timing pickup (nearest to the switches) is at the mark made in step 1. Replace the screws that held the cam position sensor, finger tight.
3.Remove the wires from the coil. Use a test light or meter to find the white wire that has +12V when both the key and the Run/Stop switches are on (later models have only a single white/black wire). Attach this and the white wire from the 2000i to one of the primary terminals. Attach the pink wire from the 2000i to the other primary terminal.
4.Tach connection (if equipped). Attach the pink wire from the tach to the 2000i green wire with the large (.250) blade connectors. If the bike had only one pink (or pink/black) wire at the coil, connect this to the 2000i green wire.
Do not connect the 2000i tach wire to the coil or damage to the ignition may result.
5. Remove the wire from the VOES (Vacuum Operated Electric Switch). Connect the 2000i purple wire with the small (.187) receptacle terminal. If the VOES is not installed, see the tuning tips on the last page.
The blue wire is left unconnected. If there is no tach, the green wire is left unconnected. These should be folded back and tucked into the harness sleeve. The unused stock wire harness can be removed or taped up.
6. Skip to the "Configuring The Mode Switches" section of these instructions.
! SINGLE FIRE INSTALLATION (Two coils, one firing each cylinder)
Single plug: use Dynatek DC6-5 Twin-Fire II Performance Coil or two DC3-1 single output coils. Dual plug: use two DC1-1 coils or DC6-4 Twin-Fire. Mounting brackets for two-coil installations are available from your dealer.
1.Follow the "Dual Fire Installation Instructions" above, through step 2.
2.Remove the coil. Use a test light or meter to find the white wire that has +12V when both the key and the Run/Stop switches are on (some models have only a single white/black wire). Attach this and the white wire from the 2000i to the coil (+) terminal (a jumper is supplied for two-coil installations). Note: dual tower coils do not have a
(+) terminal; either one can be used.
3.Connect the 2000i pink wire to the rear cylinder coil (-) terminal. The blue wire connects to the front cylinder coil (-) terminal.
4.Tach connection - attach the pink wire from the tach to the 2000i green wire with the large (.250) blade connectors. If there is no tach, fold the wire back into the harness sleeve.
If the bike had only one pink (or pink/black) wire at the coil, connect this to the 2000i green wire. Do not connect the 2000i tach wire to the coil or damage to the ignition may result.
5. Remove the wire from the VOES (Vacuum Operated Electric Switch). Connect the 2000i purple wire with the small (.187) receptacle terminal. If the VOES is not installed, see the tuning tips on the last page.
If there is no tach, the green wire can be folded back and tucked into the harness sleeve. The unused stock wire harness can be removed or taped up.
! CONFIGURING THE MODE SWITCHES
The 2000i has 6 mode switches which allow you to configure the ignition for your engine build and riding style. Stick the enclosed switch position label on the inside of the cam cover for future reference.
Switch 1 |
V.O.E.S. |
Description |
OFF |
Normal |
Allows timing to reach full advance by 1500 rpm under light engine load |
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conditions, improving throttle response and gas milage. Most bikes should be set |
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to this mode. |
ON |
Retard |
Uses the V.O.E.S. wire to retard timing for nitrous or turbo equipped bikes. See |
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below for further explanation. |
Switch 2 |
Switch 3 |
Advance Curve |
Description |
OFF |
OFF |
Curve 1 - |
This curves brings up the advance the earliest and to the highest |
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final value (most aggressive). |
ON |
OFF |
Curve 2 - |
This curve brings up the advance a little slower than curve 1 to |
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prevent detonation on near stock motors. |
OFF |
ON |
Curve 3 - |
This curve is good for built motors that tend to detonate, advance |
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comes in slower than curve 2 and to a lower final value. |
ON |
ON |
Curve 4 - |
This curve should only be used if your motor still detonates using |
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curve 3, advance is brought in still slower and to a lesser final |
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value than curve 3 (least aggressive). |
The proper advance curve will be determined by the level of engine modification, weight of bike and rider, gasoline octane rating, air temperature, altitude, etc. Start with curve 2 which is similar to the stock curve. If you experience any "pinging", try curve 3 . If the bike runs well on curve 2, try curve 1. Generally, you should run the curve that is most aggressive without causing pinging.
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