Dynaflite super decathlon Instruction Manual

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DECGP04 Printed in USA
READ THROUGH THE PRELIMINARY INFORMATION BEFORE YOU START
BUILDING. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS, WARNINGS, AND
INFORMATION CONCERNING THE BUILDING AND USE OF THIS MODEL.
© 2011 Hobbico®, Inc V:2.0
Instruction Manual
•89” IMAA-legal aerobatic trainer
•Selig 8036 semi-symmetrical airfoil for maneuverability & low-speed stability
•Performance excels with a wide range of engines
WARRANTY
Dynaflite guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Dynaflite’s liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Dynaflite reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice. In that Dynaflite has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability. If the buyer
is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, return this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION .................................................2
PRECAUTIONS ...................................................3
PREPARATIONS .................................................3
Required accessories ...................................3
Suggested supplies .......................................4
Building notes ...............................................4
Types of wood ..............................................4
Metric conversions ........................................5
DIE PATTERNS ...................................................5
BUILD THE TAIL SECTION ................................ 6
Build the fin and rudder ................................6
Build the stabilizer .........................................7
Build the elevators ........................................7
BUILD THE WING ............................................... 8
Sheet the top of the wing ............................11
Finish the wing ............................................ 13
Build the ailerons ........................................14
BUILD THE FUSELAGE ...................................15
Assemble the firewall ..................................15
Build the bulkheads and fuselage sides ............18
Assemble the fuselage ...............................19
Mount the wing ...........................................21
Sheet the top of the fuselage ......................23
Finish the bottom of the fuselage ............... 24
Mount the tail ..............................................26
Make and mount the wing struts ................. 28
Finish the windshield and cowl ...................29
FINAL ASSEMBLY ...........................................30
Install the radio system ...............................30
Set the control throws .................................30
FINISHING ........................................................31
Finishing the struts ......................................31
Balance your model .................................... 31
PREFLIGHT ......................................................31
Balance your propellers .............................. 31
Charge your batteries .................................32
AT THE FLYING SITE .......................................32
Ground check your model ........................... 32
Range check your radio ..............................32
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS .................................32
FLIGHT .............................................................. 33
Takeoff ........................................................33
Flying ..........................................................33
Landing .......................................................34
INTRODUCTION
Congratulations on your choice of this kit for your next project. The Super Decathlon is a Fun Scale
®
model of a truly classic aerobatic aircraft. It has the presence that only a big model can deliver. The full-scale Super Decathlon is a basic aerobatic aircraft capable of spins, loops, rolls, immelmanns, split S’s, hammerheads and basic inverted flight.
Super Decathlons have been the choice for basic aerobatics in the US for the past twenty-five years. One of the things that made this plane so popular was the fact that it was one of the easiest landing taildraggers ever made. The Dynaflite Super Decathlon has the great landing habits of the full­scale plane, with more aerobatic potential.
The two-piece wing means transporting this 89" span model can be done in any vehicle which can hold the manageable 67" fuselage. The big wing and strong structure of the Dynaflite Super Decathlon allows for an engine range from the
1.08 2-stroke all the way up to the 2.1 gas engines. We do recommend flying wires on the tail if you are using an engine at the larger end of the recommended range.
At Dynaflite, we take pride in offering kits that are simple and straightforward to build and provide value for your modeling dollar. Because of the size and cost of this model, we assume you have built several models and have a general working knowledge of modeling and its terms. If you HAVE NOT built and flown several kits, we strongly recommend you back up and get some experience before beginning this kit.
Your Super Decathlon is not a toy, but a sophisticated working model that functions like a full-size airplane. Because of its performance, if you do not assemble and operate the Super Decathlon correctly, you could possibly injure yourself or spectators and damage property. To make your R/C modeling experience totally enjoyable, we recommend that you get assistance with assembly and your first flights from an experienced, knowledgeable
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modeler. Your local hobby shop has information about flying clubs in your area whose membership includes qualified instructors if needed.
If you are not already a member of the AMA, please join! The AMA is the governing body of model aviation and membership provides liability insurance coverage, protects modelers’ rights and interests and is required to fly at most R/C sites.
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302-9252
Tele. (800) 435-9262
Fax (765) 741-0057
Or via the Internet at:
http://www.modelaircraft.org
IMPORTANT!!!
Two of the most important things you can do to preserve the radio controlled aircraft hobby are to avoid flying near full-scale aircraft and avoid flying near or over groups of people.
PRECAUTIONS
1. You must assemble the plane according to the instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so may result in an unsafe or unflyable model. In a few cases the instructions may differ slightly from the photos or plan. In those instances, follow the written instructions.
2. You must take the time to build straight, true and strong.
3. You must install all R/C and other components so that the model operates properly on the ground and in the air.
4. You must test the operation of the model before the first and each successive flight to insure that all equipment operates correctly. You must also make certain that the model has remained structurally sound.
Please inventory and inspect all parts carefully before starting to build! If any parts are missing, broken or defective or if you have any questions about building or flying this model, please call us
at: (217) 398-8970 or you may email us at productsupport@dynaflite.com and we'll be glad to help. If you are calling for replacement parts, please look up the part numbers and have them ready when calling.
PREPARATIONS
REQUIRED ITEMS
These are the items not included with your kit; you will need to purchase them separately. Items in parentheses (GPMQ4131) are suggested part numbers recognized by distributors and hobby shops and are listed for your ordering convenience. GPM is the Great Planes® brand, TOP is the Top Flite® brand and HCA is the Hobbico® brand.
4+ Channel radio w/6 servos (5 high torque) 2 18" Servo extension wires (ailerons) 2 “Y” Connectors (ailerons, elevators) Engine: 1.20 - 1.60 4-stroke,
1.08 - 1.8 2-stroke, or 1.5 - 2.1 gas Engine mount and mounting hardware 16 - 24 oz. Fuel tank Standard fuel tubing, glow (GPMQ4131) Tygon fuel tubing, gas (DUBQ0427) Gas stopper (DUBQ0675) 2 3-1/4" Main wheels (GPMQ4226) 1 1-1/2" Tail wheel (GPMQ4243) 4 5/32" Wheel collars (GPMQ4306) 2 1/8" Wheel collars (GPMQ4304) 2 3/16" Axles (GPMQ4278) 20 Giant Scale hinges 4 8-32 x 1" Socket head bolts (GPMQ3048) 4 8-32 Blind Nuts (GPMQ3328) Coverite™ Fabric or other covering
(approximately 5 rolls)
Paint for fuelproofing, engine cowl and
windows 1/4" Latex Foam Rubber (HCAQ1000) 3" Spinner (GPMQ4530) 1 or 2 1/4 Scale pilot(s) (optional)
(DGAQ2110) Decathlon cockpit kit (optional) (DYFQ8115)
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SUGGESTED SUPPLIES
We recommend Great Planes Pro™ CA and Epoxy
4 oz. Thin CA Adhesive (GPMR5904) 4 oz. Medium CA+ Adhesive (GPMR5910) 2 oz. Thick CA- Adhesive (GPMR6015) Pro CA Applicator Tips (HCAR3780) Pro CA Accelerator w/pump (HCAR3750) 6-Minute Epoxy (GPMR6045) 30-Minute Epoxy (GPMR6047) 8 oz. Aliphatic Resin Wood Glue
(GPMR6163) 4 oz. Milled Fiberglass (GPMR6165) Microballoon Filler (TOPR1090)
J&Z Products RC/56 Canopy Glue (JOZR5007) Great Planes Plan Protector (GPMR6167)
BUILDING NOTES
When you see the term “cut and fit” in the
instructions, it means you should first position the part on the assembly without using any glue. Slightly modify or shape the part as necessary for the best fit. Do not glue unless instructed to do so.
Throughout the assembly of this model, thin CA
should be used unless the step calls for another type of adhesive. If your parts do not fit well, substitute medium or thick CA.
Whenever just “epoxy” is called for, you may use
either 30-minute epoxy or 6-minute epoxy. When 30-minute epoxy is specified, it is highly recommended that you use only 30-minute epoxy because you will need either the working time or the additional strength.
CA accelerator causes CA glues to react
immediately, but residual accelerator can prematurely cure CA on nearby joints even hours later.
During construction you will be using a number of
balsa sticks to frame various assemblies. Ample material is included but you should study the plans, then make an effort to cut the longest pieces you will need first. Label the pieces for later
reference as you cut them. By doing this now, you won't have to splice pieces together later.
Do not throw away any leftover material until after you have completed your model. Some small pieces of leftover balsa or plywood are used during construction.
TYPES OF WOOD
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1/64" = .4 mm 1/32" = .8 mm 1/16" = 1.6 mm 3/32" = 2.4 mm 1/8" = 3.2 mm 5/32" = 4.0 mm 3/16" = 4.8 mm
1/4" = 6.4 mm 3/8" = 9.5 mm 1/2" = 12.7 mm 5/8" = 15.9 mm 3/4" = 19.0 mm 1" = 25.4 mm 2" = 50.8 mm 3" = 76.2 mm
6" = 152.4 mm 12" = 304.8 mm 18" = 457.2 mm 21" = 533.4 mm 24" = 609.6 mm 30" = 762.0 mm 36" = 914.4 mm
DIE PATTERNS
METRIC CONVERSIONS
BUILD THE TAIL SECTION
BUILD THE FIN AND RUDDER
1. Cover the FIN/RUDDER PLAN with Great Planes Plan Protector or wax paper.
2. From two 3/8" x 15/16" x 24" balsa sticks, cut, fit and glue the fin frame as shown in the photo. Remember to save all leftover pieces.
3. From a 3/8" x 1/2" x 30" balsa stick, cut, fit and glue the upper rear gusset. From leftover
3/8" x
15/16" balsa, cut, fit and glue the other 3
gussets.
4. From the 1/8" x 3/8" x 30" balsa stick, cut, fit and glue the 3 fin ribs in place.
5. Remove the fin from the building board.
6. If you will be adding flying wires, drill a 5/16"
hole in the bottom of the upper rear gusset. Cut 3/8" off one of the 5/16" x 6-5/8" dowels. Using thin CA, glue the 3/8" piece in the hole.
7. Using a 3/8" x 15/16" x 24" balsa stick, the 3/8" x 1/2" x 28-1/2" balsa stick (leftover from the upper rear gusset) and a 1/8" x 3/8" x 30" balsa stick, build the rudder. Do not forget the 3/8" x 1/2" gusset in the lower corner.
8. Remove the rudder from the plan. Mark the centerline the length of the fin trailing edge and the rudder leading edge. Cut the hinge slots along the centerlines where shown on the plan.
9. Using the fuse plan top view as a reference, sand the leading edge of the rudder to the “V”
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shape shown. Make sure the “V” is large enough to allow for the specified left and right movement of the rudder (see “SET THE CONTROL THROWS”, page 30).
10. Round the leading edge of the fin and the top and trailing edge of the rudder. Note: Check the plans to see the location of the dorsal fin and do not sand the leading edge of the fin in that area.
BUILD THE STABILIZER
1. Place the STABILIZER PLAN on your building board. Cover the plan with Plan Protector.
2. From the 3/8" x 3" x 24" balsa sheet, cut a 6" length, making the stab center. Using more of the same sheet, make the leading edge joiner.
3. Cut 6" from a 3/8" x 1/2" x 30" balsa stick. Pin it in front of the stab center on the plans.
4. Glue the stab center and stab leading edge joiner to the 1/2" piece pinned to your plans.
5. From the 3/8" x 3/8" x 22" basswood stick, cut, fit and glue the stab spar to the stab center.
6. Using two 3/8" x 15/16" x 24" balsa sticks,
cut,
fit and glue the leading edge and trailing edge.
7. From the leftover 3/8" x 1/2" balsa stick (used to build the fin and rudder), cut, fit and glue the stab tips.
8. Using a 1/8" x 3/8" x 30" balsa stick, cut, fit and glue the other four stab ribs in place. After the glue has dried, remove the stab from your work surface.
9. If you will be installing flying wires, drill two 5/16" holes in the balsa trailing edge in the locations shown on the plan. Cut two 3/8" long pieces off the 5/16" dowel. With thin CA, glue the 3/8" pieces in the holes.
BUILD THE ELEVATORS
1. Cover the elevator plans with Plan Protector.
❏ ❏ 2. From a 3/8" x 15/16" x 24" balsa stick, cut,
fit and pin one elevator leading edge to the plans.
3. From a 3/8" x 1/2" x 30" balsa stick, cut, fit and glue the 1/2" elevator ribs and corner gusset to the leading edge. Note: It is important that the
trailing
edge of the ribs align accurately with the plans.
4. From a 1/8" x 3/8" x 30" balsa stick, cut, fit and glue the 1/8" elevator ribs to the leading edge.
5. From leftover 3/8" x 3" balsa (from the stab center), cut, fit and glue the control horn mount to the back of the leading edge and also to the inboard elevator rib.
6. Push the six T-pins in place as indicated on the plans, ensuring that they are vertical and firmly in place.
7. Wet one of the 1/16" faces of a 1/16" x 3/8" x 24" balsa stick. Glue the stick to the aft end of the ribs with the wet side facing out. Pull the stick around the tip, gluing it to the ends of the leading edge and tip ribs as you go. Note: Pull the stick just enough to touch the pins, but do not move
them.
8. One at a time, install the remaining four 1/16" x 3/8" x 24" balsa sticks as you did the first, using medium CA to glue each successive stick to the one applied before it and pressing it in
position
until the CA dries. Note: Leave some
balsa overhang
on both ends to be trimmed off later.
❏ ❏ 9. Remove the elevator from the plan.
❏ ❏ 10. Trim the laminated sticks off flush with the
elevator ribs.
11. Repeat steps 2-10, to build the second elevator.
12. Mark the centerline of the trailing edge of the stab and of the leading edges of the elevators. Cut the hinge slots along the centerlines as shown on the plan.
13. Using the fuse plan side view as a reference, sand the leading edge of the elevator to the “V” shape shown. Make sure the “V” is large enough to allow for the specified up and down movement of the elevators (see “SET THE CONTROL THROWS”, page 30).
14. Sand the stab LE and the outside edges of the elevators to a rounded shape.
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BUILD THE WING
Note: The airfoil used on this plane is semi-
symmetrical. We positioned the embossed labels on the die-cut 3/32" balsa ribs so that they are right-side up when the wing is right-side up. This is the easiest way to reference the top and bottom of the ribs.
1. Glue the two die-cut 1/8" ply W1 doublers to the two W1B ribs. Glue the two die-cut 1/8" ply W3 doublers to two of the W3 ribs as shown. Note: These parts mirror each other.
2. Trim W1B to match the opening in the doubler as shown in the photo.
3. Select a W2B rib and trim it to match W1B.
4. Insert the aluminum wing tube into the paper
wing tube. Fit the two W1Bs, two W2Bs and four
W3s (including the two with the doublers) to the paper wing tube. Use your rotary tool to enlarge the holes in the ribs as necessary. When satisfied with the fit, remove the ribs from the tubes and set the tubes aside.
5. Cut the two 1/8" x 2-1/8" x 14-5/8" birch ply sheets in half, making four 1/8" x 2-1/8" x 7-5/16" shear webs.
6. Sand a taper on the last two inches of the four 1/8" x 3/8" x 18" basswood spar doublers.
7. Glue the four spar doublers to the four 1/4" x 3/8" x 42" basswood spars with the non-tapered end of the doublers aligned with one end of each spar. These assemblies are now known as spars.
8. Glue the die-cut 1/8" ply forward and rear strut braces to two of the W5 ribs as shown.
9. Cover your right wing panel with Plan Protector. Cross-pin the bottom spar in place on the plan, aligning the inboard end with the centerline of the wing, with the spar doubler facing up.
10. Pin the 1/4" x 3/8" x 42" balsa wing jig to the plans, with the 1/4" edge against the plans. Notice how the jig is skewed to provide the required wing twist (washout).
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11. Select two of the four W3 ribs you fitted to the wing tube. Position them in the two W3 locations where the wing tube installs. Glue those two W3 ribs, one W3 (which was not fitted to the tube), three W4 and two W6 ribs vertically to the bottom spar. Glue one W5 with a strut brace and one W5 without a strut brace in the locations
shown.
12. Using a square to make sure the top spar aligns with the bottom spar, fit and glue the top spar in place.
13. Using the 3/32" x 4" x 24" balsa, cut, fit and glue the shear webs in place. Note: You will install the remaining balsa shear webs in the bays that have pins in them after the wing is turned over.
14. Glue the 1/8" x 3/8" x 42" basswood bottom aft spar in place, being careful to keep the ribs straight over the plans.
15. Glue the die-cut 1/8" ply W1A in place at the root of the wing with the spars firmly set in the notches.
16. Remove the T-pins at the root of the spar. Using 6-minute epoxy, fit and glue the ply shear webs (you cut earlier) in place.
17. Glue W1B and W2B in place over the plans.
18. Glue the top 1/8" x 3/8" x 42" basswood aft spar in place.
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19. Cut the paper wing tube in half. Insert the aluminum tube inside the paper tube. Using medium CA, glue the paper tube to the four ribs and the ply shear web, aligning the end with the root rib. Remove the aluminum tube from the paper tube.
20. Fit and glue the die-cut 1/8" ply tube plug in the outboard end of the paper tube.
❏ ❏ 21. Glue the die-cut 1/8" ply W2A rib in place.
❏ ❏ 22. Glue the die-cut 1/8" ply dowel plate (DP)
in place.
23. Glue the 1/8" x 1" x 42" balsa sub leading edge to the ribs, centering it vertically on the front of the ribs.
24. Using a razor plane and/or sanding bar, shape the top of the sub leading edge to the contour of the ribs. Trim the sub leading edge flush with the wing tip rib and the root rib.
25. From a 1/4" x 1" x 24" balsa stick, fit and glue the trailing edge in place in the aileron bay. Sand the top to the shape of the ribs.
26. From a 3/8" x 3/4" x 24" balsa stick, cut and glue the four hinge doublers in place.
SHEET THE WING
1. Cut a 1" x 42" strip from a 3/32" x 3" x 42" balsa sheet.
2. Edge glue the 1" strip to a 3/32" x 3" x 24" balsa sheet as shown in the photo.
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