Dynaflite Original User Manual

Instruction Manual

by Al Doig

Supplemental Instructions for Bird of Time

After producing an initial run of Bird of Time kits Mark's Models has
come to a conclusion: Dave Thornburg's concise instructions may be a

tiny bit too brief. We have therefore taken the liberty of expanding

upon those areas where further clarification might even help experts.
WING

1. Join the plan-halves with Scotch tape or rubber cement and tape to
the building board - cover left panel drawing with wax paper. It Is
easier to build the inboard and outboard panels at one time but it is
not important to do so. Just don't glue them together.

2. Trim a piece of 1/16" X 3 5/8" balsa to 24" and pin this leading edge
sheeting over the inboard panel plan. Using the rest of the sheet, trim
the inner wing sheeting to shape, pin to board and cyanoacrylate.

3. The l/l6" X 3" X 36" outboard sheeting must be trimmed to shape and
the triangular scrap pieced to the Inboard end to bring it to the required
width. Use Cyanoacrylate to speed the process. Trim the inboard end to
an angle such that the scrap piece is to the rear If you wish. Pin the

lower leading edge sheeting In place over the plan with the aft edge flush

with the aft edge of the spar line.

4. Glue the 1/8" X 3/8" X 24" hardwood Inboard spar to the lower sheeting,
flush with the rear edge. Similarly, glue the 1/8" X 3/8" X 36" balsa
outboard spar to the outboard lower sheeting. Use Titebond or white glue.

5. Lightly sand the back of the die-cut sheets for a more clean removal.
Remove parts and lightly remove any fuzz with sandpaper. Be sure not to
change the contour of the parts in this process. Be sure the spar notches
are clean. Note the difference between the A and AA ribs and mark them.

(The aft end of AA ribs is narrower)

6. To facilitate gluing the ribs to the lower sheeting, slide the narrow
edge of a piece of trailing edge stock under the front edge of the sheeting.

This will form the sheeting Into the "Philllp's entry" airfoil required

and the ribs will fit snugly. Put the inboard (root) AA rib In place noting

that

it

is

tipped

as

shown In section RR

(3.5°).

Make sure the rib Is snug
against the lower sheeting and fasten with Cyanocrylate. Now fasten the
rear of the rib to the Inboard sheeting. Now, counting from the Inboard
end, fasten the 2nd, 3rd, 4th & 5th "A ribs to the foreward lower sheeting*
Pin the rear of these ribs securely to the building board.

7. Saw the main-spar polyhedral braces from the 1/8" plywood and sand
carefully to dimension. (These pieces are only lightly die-cut as full
die-cut results in ragged edge.) Check the fit of the 3/8" X 9/l6" X 2 7/8"
vertical-grain shear webs - make sure they don't protrude into spar notch.
Epoxy polyhedral brace and shear webs In place. Make sure webs are aligned
with the spars in the two bays with plywood shear webs.

1.

8. Taper the outboard end of the 1/4" I.D. brass wing-wire tubes as shown
on section R-R. This will permit the proper angle of dihedral. Sharpen
the end of one tube and drill a hole in the proper location in the root
AA rib so the tube will Just touch the top spar. Roughen the outside of
the tubes with sandpaper. Using the piece of 3/8" sq. X l8" balsa, make
the fillers that support the brass tube. Make sure the top filler does
not protrude into the spar area. Set aside for now.

9. Put the top inboard spar in place but do not glue. Epoxy the 4
plywood shear webs to the lower spar and 3/8" shear webs using 5 minute

epoxy. Wipe the epoxy out of the top spar area and remove the top spar
before the epoxy sets up so it won't stick.

10. Make up 3 shear webs from scrap l/l6" balsa to fit between the spars
in the second and third bay which have no plywood shear webs. These will

act as dams to prevent epoxy from running out of the wing tube cavity.
Fasten these in place with Cyanoacrylate. Using a liberal quantity of
5 minute epoxy, install the filler blocks and tube from step 8. Make

sure the epoxy does not protrude into the spar area. Epoxy top spar

in place.

11. Cut the remaining 4 AA and 1 A ribs to fit and install with Cyanoacry­late. Install outboard ribs B through K and pin rear to worktable. Use
a piece of trailing edge stock to raise the lower leading edge forming
the "Philllp's entry". Do not install A rib at polyhedral Joint, yet.

12. Epoxy the trailing edges to the ribs. Note that the short trailing
edge at the polyhedral joint is made from the piece of 1/4" X 1 1/8" balsa.

13. Trim the outboard lower sheeting and the outboard spar to fit the
formed wingtip. Note that there is no rib at the tip. The tip block
is to be carved to the section shown. Glue wingtip and tip gusset in
place.

14. Using scrap l/l6" sheet, trim 3 shear webs and install in the
outboard panel as shown.

15. Using Titebond or white glue, run a liberal fillet around each rib
at the lower sheeting.

16. Remove the outer panel from the worktable, sand trailing edge to
proper angle and check that the polyhedral brace does not interfere
at rib B. Block the tip to the proper height. Using 5 minute epoxy,
glue the polyhedral brace to the outer spar and Join the trailing edges.
Trim the last rib A to fit at the polyhedral Joint and epoxy it and the
two plywood gussets in place.

17. Trim one of the l/l6" X 3 5/8" balsa sheets to 24". Glue this
inboard top L.E. sheet being extremely careful that the sheeting is
snug to the rib all the way to the foreward edge. Use lots of pins.
Using the remainder of the l/l6" X 3 5/8" sheet, cut the top inboard
sheeting to shape and glue in place. Trim and glue the 1/16" X 1/4" cap
strips

2.