Dynaflite GPMA0525 User Manual

TALNP02 Printed in USA

READ THROUGH THE PRELIMINARY INFORMATION BEFORE YOU START

BUILDING. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS, WARNINGS, AND

INFORMATION CONCERNING THE BUILDING AND USE OF THIS MODEL.

© Copyright 2000 V:1.3

Instruction Manual

•Hand-launch sailplane for thermal or slope flying

•Flat wing with ailerons for ultimate maneuverability

•Rugged, lightweight balsa/ply construction

•Optional V-tail version

WARRANTY

Dynaflite guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at
the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use
or modification. In no case shall Dynaflite’s liability exceed the original cost of the
purchased kit. Further, Dynaflite reserves the right to change or modify this warranty
without notice. In that Dynaflite has no control over the final assembly or material used for
final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from
the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the user­assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability. If the buyer is not prepared

to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, return this kit
immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.

™

™

INTRODUCTION ......................................2

PRECAUTIONS ........................................3

PREPARATIONS.......................................3

Required accessories ..................................3

Required building supplies and tools........4

Building notes..............................................4

Types of wood .............................................4

BUILD THE FUSELAGE.............................5

Join the upper fuselage sides ....................5

Finish framing the fuselage........................7

Make the hatch ............................................8

BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES.....................9

Make the stab mount ..................................9

Build the stab ...............................................9

Prepare the stab and fin for joining to the fuse
11

BUILD THE WING ...................................12

Build one wing panel ................................12

Finish the wing panel................................14

Join the wing .............................................17

Mount the wing to the fuselage ...............18

Mount the hatch.........................................19

Mount the stab and fin to the fuselage ...20

FINAL CONSTRUCTION.........................20

Mount the servos ......................................20

Cover your model......................................21

GET YOUR MODEL READY TO FLY .........22

Hinge the ailerons .....................................22

Balance the model.....................................22

Mount your receiver and battery .............23

Set the control throws ..............................23

PREFLIGHT ............................................23

FLYING ..................................................24

Congratulations and thank you for purchasing
the Dynaflite Talon. While the Talon is not
necessarily an advanced glider, it is intended for
modelers with some previous R/C building and
flying experience. Due to its flat wing and

relatively thin airfoil, the Talon is quite
maneuverable and penetrates well, so it is at
home either on the slopes or the breezy planes.
The unique fuselage construction yields an
interesting triangular cross section that builds
rapidly and is pleasing to look at. This
instruction manual also shows you how to build
both the conventional straight-tail version or
the V-tail version. We hope you enjoy building
and flying your Dynaflite Talon!

Your Talon is not a toy, but a sophisticated
working model that functions like a full-size
sailplane.

Because of its performance, if you do not
assemble and operate the Talon correctly, you
could possibly injure yourself or spectators
and damage property.

To make your R/C modeling experience
totally enjoyable, we recommend that
you get assistance with assembly and
your first flights from an experienced,
knowledgeable modeler. You’ll learn faster

and avoid risk to your model before you’re
truly ready to solo. Your local hobby shop has
information about flying clubs in your area
whose membership includes qualified

instructors.

You can also contact the national Academy of
Model Aeronautics (AMA), which has more
than 2,500 chartered clubs across the country.
We recommend you join the AMA which will
provide you with insurance coverage at AMA
club sites and events. AMA Membership is
required at chartered club fields where
qualified flight instructors are available.
Contact the AMA at the address or toll-free
phone number next page.

PROTECT YOUR MODEL,

YOURSELF & OTHERS...

FOLLOW THIS IMPORTANT

SAFETY PRECAUTION

INTRODUCTION

TABLE OF CONTENTS

2

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302-9252

Tele. [phone]

Fax [phone]

Or via the Internet at:

http://www.modelaircraft.org

1. You must assemble the model according to
the instructions. Do not alter or modify the
model, as doing so may result in an unsafe or
unflyable model. In a few cases the plans and
instructions may differ slightly from the
photos. In those instances the written
instructions are correct.

2. You must take time to build straight, true and
strong.

3. You must properly install the R/C radio
system and other components so that the
model operates properly on the ground and in
the air.

4. You must test the operation of the model
before every flight to ensure that all equipment
is operating, and that the model has remained
structurally sound. Check clevises or other
connectors frequently and replace them if they
show signs of wear or fatigue.

Please inspect all parts carefully before
you start to build! If any parts are missing,
broken or defective, or if you have any
questions about building or flying this
model, please call us at [phone]
and we’ll be glad to help. If you call for
replacement parts, please look up the part
numbers and the kit identification number
(stamped on the end of the carton) and
have them ready when you call.We can
also be reached by E-Mail at:

[e-mail]

This is a list of the “hardware” items you will
need to complete your kit. Order numbers in
parentheses (OSMG2691) are provided for
your convenience and are recognized by
distributors and hobby shops. GPM is the
Great Planes

®

brand, TOP is the Top Flite

®

brand and HCA is the Hobbico®brand.

❏ 2-Channel Aircraft Radio System with 2

micro servos and mini battery pack (250
mAh)

❏ 1 Roll Top Flite EconoKote

®

covering

❏ 2 Great Planes 24” Flexible Cable

Pushrods (GPMQ3700)

❏ Great Planes Double-Sided Foam Tape

(GPMQ4442)

REQUIRED ACCESSORIES

PREPARATIONS

NOTE: We, as the kit manufacturer, can

provide you with a top quality kit and great
instructions, but ultimately the quality and
flyability of your finished model depends on
how you build it; therefore, we cannot in any
way guarantee the performance of your
completed model and no representations are
expressed or implied as to the performance or
safety of your completed model.

PRECAUTIONS

3

These are the building tools and supplies that
you will need to build your Talon. We
recommend Great Planes Pro™ CA and Epoxy

❏ 1 oz. Thin CA (GPMR6002)
❏ 1 oz. Medium CA+ (GPMR6008)
❏ CA Applicator Tips (HCAR3780)
❏ CA Accelerator (GPMR6035)
❏ 30-Minute Pro Epoxy (GPMR6047)
❏ #1 Hobby Knife (HCAR0100)
❏ #11 Blades (Qty. 5 – HCAR0211)
❏ Razor Plane (MASR1510)
❏ Small T-pins (HCAR5100)
❏ Great Planes Plan Protector (GPMR6167)
❏ Electric Drill
❏ Drill Bits: 1/16", 7/64" (or 3/32"), #25 (or

5/32"), 3/16", #12 (or 3/16")

❏ #1 Phillips Screwdriver
❏Top Flite Covering Iron (TOPR2100)
❏ Hot Sock

™

(for your covering iron,

TOPR2175)

❏ Denatured or Isopropyl Alcohol (for epoxy

clean-up)

❏ HobbyLite

™

Balsa Filler (HCAR3401)

❏ Lead/Acid or Silver Solder (GPMR8070)
❏ Bar Sander or Sanding Block and

Sandpaper (coarse, medium grit)

❏ 10-32 Tap

A flat, durable, easy to handle sanding tool is a
necessity for building model airplanes. Great
Planes makes a complete range of Easy-Touch

™

Bar Sanders and replaceable Easy-Touch
Adhesive-backed Sandpaper.

Here’s a complete list of Easy-Touch Bar Sanders
and Adhesive Backed Sandpaper:

5-1/2" Bar Sander (GPMR6169)
11" Bar Sander (GPMR6170)
22" Bar Sander (GPMR6172)
33" Bar Sander (GPMR6174)
44" Bar Sander (GPMR6176)
11" Contour Multi-Sander (GPMR6190)
12' roll of Adhesive-backed 80-grit sandpaper
(GPMR6180)
150-grit (GPMR6183)
220-grit (GPMR6185)
Assortment pack of 5-1/2" strips (GPMR6189)

•When you see the term “test fit” in the

instructions, it means you should first
position the part on the assembly without
using any glue, then slightly modify or
“custom fit” the part as necessary for the
best fit.

•Whenever just “epoxy” is specified you may

use

either

30-minute epoxy

or

6-minute

epoxy. When 30-minute epoxy is specified,
it is highly recommended that you use only
30-minute (or slower) epoxy because you will
need either the working time and/or the
additional strength.

TYPES OF WOOD

BUILDING NOTES

REQUIRED BUILDING

SUPPLIES AND TOOLS

4

❏ 1. Unroll the plan sheet. Tightly roll it the other

way so it will lie flat.

❏2. Place the die-cut 3/16" balsa fuse bottom over

the top view of the plan and mark the location of
formers 1 through 6 using a straightedge and a
ballpoint pen.

Note: If some of the parts are difficult to remove
from their die sheets, don’t force them out but
cut around them with a hobby knife and a #11
blade. After you remove the parts, lightly sand
the edges to remove slivers or die-cutting
irregularities. Save some of the larger scraps of
wood as you proceed.

❏ 3. Position the plan so the top view of the fuse

is over a flat building board that you can stick
pins into. Cover the top view of the fuse with
Great Planes Plan Protector or wax paper.

(For clarity, this photo shows the fuse bottom off

the plan, but yours should be pinned to your

building

board over the plan as instructed in this step.)

❏ 4. Accurately position the fuse bottom over its

location on the plan and pin it down only
between formers 2 and 3. Raise the front of the
fuse 1/2" and the rear of the fuse 3/4" using the
1/2" x 3/4" x 2" balsa block cut into two pieces.

❏ 5. Use a ballpoint pen to label the die-cut 1/8"

plywood formers and dihedral brace (DB) as
indicated in the photo. Remove the parts from the
die sheet.

❏ 6. Drill a 3/16" hole through former 3 at the

punchmark. Use a small, round file or a rotary
tool to round the “V” notches in formers 3
through 6 to accommodate the 1/8" pushrod
guide tube (not included) and the antenna guide
tube (not included).

❏ 7. Drill a 3/16" hole through the center of former

1. After your Talon is completed, this will allow
you to add lead shot to the compartment in the
front of the fuse for ballast or to adjust the C.G.

❏ 8. Lightly spray the fuse bottom with CA

accelerator over the lines indicating the location
of the formers. Making certain the notches in the

JOIN THE UPPER

FUSELAGE SIDES

BUILD THE FUSELAGE

5

sides of the formers are on the left side of the
fuse, glue the formers to the fuse bottom with
thin CA. As you proceed, use a small building
square to keep the formers perpendicular to your
building board.

❏9. Position one of the die-cut 3/16" balsa upper

fuse sides over the side view of the fuse plan,

aligning the front where indicated on the plan.
Mark the location of formers 2 and 3 on the fuse
side with a straightedge and a ballpoint pen. This
is now the left fuse side.

❏ 10.Transfer the lines from the left fuse side to

the right fuse side.

❏11. Securely pin the 1/2" x 3/4" x 1" balsa blocks

at the front and back of the fuse to the plan.
Making sure the fuse remains aligned with the
plan, pin the front and back of the fuse bottom to
the blocks.

❏ 12. Position both upper fuse sides on the fuse

assembly, aligning the marks you made with
formers 2 and 3.

❏ 13. Temporarily hold the upper fuse sides to

formers 2 and 3 with T-pins. Pull the aft end of the
upper fuse sides to formers 5 and 6 and check
alignment. Adjust the position of the upper fuse
sides on formers 2 and 3 until they align near the
aft end when you pull them to formers 5 and 6.

❏ 14. When you have achieved the alignment

described in the preceding step, use thin or
medium CA to glue the upper fuse sides only to
formers 2 and 3.

❏15. Carefully checking alignment as you

proceed,
use thin or medium CA to glue the upper fuse
sides to formers 4, 5 and 6.

❏ 16. Pull the upper fuse sides to each other and

to the fuse bottom. Use medium CA to glue the
upper fuse sides to the fuse bottom and to former

1. Refrain from gluing the fuse to the balsa block.
But, if you do, it’s no problem because you can
just break the balsa block free and sand later.

❏ 17. From the 1/8" x 1/4" x 24" balsa stick, cut

three 3/4" long pieces and glue them together to
make the tail block. Cut a 1/8" round notch in
one side of the tail block to accommodate the
antenna guide tube.

6

❏ 18. Position the tail block between the upper

fuse sides 4" aft of former 6. Make sure the notch
in the tail block is on the left side and glue it
in place.

❏ 1. Cut the outer guide tube from a Great Planes

24" Flexible Cable Pushrod (not included with this kit,
GPMQ3700) to a length of 17" to be used for the
elevator. Roughen the outside of the guide tube with
sandpaper so glue will stick. Slide the pushrod
through the bottom holes in formers 3 through 6 as
shown in the side view of the fuse plan.

❏ 2. Roughen the outer guide tube from an

additional Great Planes 24" Flexible Cable
Pushrod kit and slide it through the holes in the
sides of formers 2 through 6. This is the antenna
guide tube.

❏3. Glue both guide tubes in position with medium

CA.

❏4. Use a straightedge and a ballpoint pen to

mark

the front edge of former 3 on both upper fuse

sides.

❏ 5. Use a razor plane and/or a bar sander and

80-grit sandpaper to sand the top edge of the
upper fuse sides as shown in the cross section
drawings on the plan. The top edges of the upper
fuse sides must be even with the tops of the
formers to accommodate the fuse top.

❏6. Glue the 1/8" x 1-1/4" x 30" balsa fuse top to

the fuse with medium or thick CA. The aft edge of
the fuse top should extend 1/2" aft of former 6.

❏ 7. Use a hemostat or small needle nose pliers

to remove the T-pins from the fuse bottom that are
holding it to your building board. You should be
able to reach the T-pins through the space
between the upper fuse sides and the fuse

bottom.

Remove the fuse from your building board.

❏8. Trim the edges of the upper fuse sides and the

fuse bottom even with the formers to accommodate
the lower fuse sides, the same way you did for the
fuse top.

❏ 9. Glue one, then the other die-cut 1/8" balsa

lower fuse side to the fuse. Handle the fuse
carefully as you position so you do not build in any

twist

to the fuselage.

❏ 10. Use your razor plane and/or your bar

sander to sand the lower fuse sides even with the
upper fuse sides and the fuse bottom. Trim all
sheeting even with the tail block.

FINISH FRAMING

THE FUSELAGE

7

❏11. Cut the front of the fuse until the 1/2" x 1/2" x

1/2" hardwood nose block will fit. Glue the nose
block to the fuse, then carve and sand it to the
shape shown on the plan. Note that the grain
direction of the nose block runs parallel with the
length of the fuse.

❏ 12. Use your bar sander and progressively

finer grades of sandpaper to round the edges of
the fuse as shown in the cross section drawings
on the plan.

❏ 1. Use a balsa block or something similar to

support a ballpoint pen so the tip will be 1-1/8"
above your building table. Mark the bottom of the
hatch on both sides of the fuse extending from
the lines you marked earlier 11" forward. As you
proceed, press down on the fuselage over the

area

where the bottom is flat as shown in the photo.

❏2. Use a razor saw to cut the aft end of the hatch

along the lines you previously marked. Cut the
front of the hatch at an angle 11" from the aft end
of the hatch.

❏ 3. Use a fresh #11 blade to cut the bottom of

the hatch along the lines you marked on both
sides of the fuselage. Note how the knife in the
photo is inserted at an angle, allowing the tip of
the blade to trail behind. This provides more
stability, allowing you to steer the blade, not the
wood grain. Also note that the cut should be
parallel with the bottom of the fuse.

❏ 4. Use a fine razor saw to cut former 2 as

shown in the cross section on the plan so you can
remove the hatch.

Neato!

MAKE THE HATCH

8

Cut parallel with the fuse bottom.