•Selig 8036 semi-symmetrical airfoil for maneuverability & low-speed stability
•Performance excels with a wide range of engines
READ THROUGH THE PRELIMINARY INFORMATION BEFORE YOU START
BUILDING. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS, WARNINGS, AND
INFORMATION CONCERNING THE BUILDING AND USE OF THIS MODEL.
Instruction Manual
Dynaflite guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date
of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification.
In no case shall Dynaflite’s liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Dynaflite
reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice. In that Dynaflite has no control
over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor
accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product.
By the act of using the user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability. If the buyer
is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, return this kit
immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.
Congratulations on your choice of this kit for your
next project. The Super Decathlon is a Fun Scale
model of a truly classic aerobatic aircraft. It has the
presence that only a big model can deliver. The
full-scale Super Decathlon is a basic aerobatic
aircraft capable of spins, loops, rolls, immelmanns,
split S’s, hammerheads and basic inverted flight.
Super Decathlons have been the choice for basic
aerobatics in the US for the past twenty-five years.
One of the things that made this plane so popular
was the fact that it was one of the easiest landing
taildraggers ever made. The Dynaflite Super
Decathlon has the great landing habits of the fullscale plane, with more aerobatic potential.
The two-piece wing means transporting this 89"
span model can be done in any vehicle which can
hold the manageable 67" fuselage. The big wing
and strong structure of the Dynaflite Super
Decathlon allows for an engine range from the
1.08 2-stroke all the way up to the 2.1 gas engines.
We do recommend flying wires on the tail if you are
using an engine at the larger end of the
recommended range.
At Dynaflite, we take pride in offering kits that are
simple and straightforward to build and provide
value for your modeling dollar. Because of the size
and cost of this model, we assume you have built
several models and have a general working
knowledge of modeling and its terms. If you HAVE
NOT built and flown several kits, we strongly
recommend you back up and get some experience
before beginning this kit.
Your Super Decathlon is not a toy, but a sophisticated
working model that functions like a full-size airplane.
Because of its performance, if you do not assemble
and operate the Super Decathlon correctly, you
could possibly injure yourself or spectators and
damage property. To make your R/C modeling
experience totally enjoyable, we recommend that
you get assistance with assembly and your first
flights from an experienced, knowledgeable
®
2
modeler. Your local hobby shop has information
about flying clubs in your area whose membership
includes qualified instructors if needed.
If you are not already a member of the AMA,
please join! The AMA is the governing body of
model aviation and membership provides liability
insurance coverage, protects modelers’ rights and
interests and is required to fly at most R/C sites.
at: (217) 398-8970 or you may email us at productsupport@dynaflite.com and we'll be
glad to help. If you are calling for replacement
parts, please look up the part numbers and have
them ready when calling.
PREPARATIONS
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302-9252
Tele. (800) 435-9262
Fax (765) 741-0057
Or via the Internet at:
http://www.modelaircraft.org
IMPORTANT!!!
Two of the most important things you can do to
preserve the radio controlled aircraft hobby are to
avoid flying near full-scale aircraft and avoid flying
near or over groups of people.
PRECAUTIONS
1. You must assemble the plane according to the
instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as
doing so may result in an unsafe or unflyable
model. In a few cases the instructions may differ
slightly from the photos or plan. In those instances,
follow the written instructions.
2. You must take the time to build straight, true
and strong.
3. You must install all R/C and other components
so that the model operates properly on the ground
and in the air.
4. You must test the operation of the model before
the first and each successive flight to insure that all
equipment operates correctly. You must also make
certain that the model has remained structurally
sound.
Please inventory and inspect all parts carefully
before starting to build! If any parts are missing,
broken or defective or if you have any questions
about building or flying this model, please call us
REQUIRED ITEMS
These are the items not included with your kit; you
will need to purchase them separately. Items in
parentheses (GPMQ4131) are suggested part
numbers recognized by distributors and hobby
shops and are listed for your ordering convenience.
GPM is the Great Planes® brand, TOP is the Top
Flite® brand and HCA is the Hobbico® brand.
❏ 4 oz. Thin CA Adhesive (GPMR5904)
❏ 4 oz. Medium CA+ Adhesive (GPMR5910)
❏ 2 oz. Thick CA- Adhesive (GPMR6015)
❏ Pro CA Applicator Tips (HCAR3780)
❏ Pro CA Accelerator w/pump (HCAR3750)
❏ 6-Minute Epoxy (GPMR6045)
❏ 30-Minute Epoxy (GPMR6047)
❏ 8 oz. Aliphatic Resin Wood Glue
instructions, it means you should first position the
part on the assembly without using any glue.
Slightly modify or shape the part as necessary for
the best fit. Do not glue unless instructed to do so.
• Throughout the assembly of this model, thin CA
should be used unless the step calls for another
type of adhesive. If your parts do not fit well,
substitute medium or thick CA.
• Whenever just “epoxy” is called for, you may use
either 30-minute epoxy or 6-minute epoxy. When
30-minute epoxy is specified, it is highly
recommended that you use only 30-minute epoxy
because you will need either the working time or
the additional strength.
• CA accelerator causes CA glues to react
immediately, but residual accelerator can
prematurely cure CA on nearby joints even
hours later.
• During construction you will be using a number of
balsa sticks to frame various assemblies. Ample
material is included but you should study the
plans, then make an effort to cut the longest
pieces you will need first. Label the pieces for later
reference as you cut them. By doing this now, you
won't have to splice pieces together later.
• Do not throw away any leftover material until after
you have completed your model. Some small
pieces of leftover balsa or plywood are used
during construction.
TYPES OF WOOD
4
METRIC CONVERSIONS
1/64" = .4 mm
1/32" = .8 mm
1/16" = 1.6 mm
3/32" = 2.4 mm
1/8" = 3.2 mm
5/32" = 4.0 mm
3/16" = 4.8 mm
1/4" = 6.4 mm
3/8" = 9.5 mm
1/2" = 12.7 mm
5/8" = 15.9 mm
3/4" = 19.0 mm
1" = 25.4 mm
2" = 50.8 mm
3" = 76.2 mm
DIE PATTERNS
6" = 152.4 mm
12" = 304.8 mm
18" = 457.2 mm
21" = 533.4 mm
24" = 609.6 mm
30" = 762.0 mm
36" = 914.4 mm
55
BUILD THE TAIL SECTION
BUILD THE FIN AND RUDDER
❏ 1. Cover the FIN/RUDDER PLAN with Great
Planes Plan Protector or wax paper.
❏ 5. Remove the fin from the building board.
❏ 6. If you will be adding flying wires, drill a 5/16"
hole in the bottom of the upper rear gusset. Cut
3/8" off one of the 5/16" x 6-5/8" dowels. Using thin
CA, glue the 3/8" piece in the hole.
❏ 2. From two 3/8" x 15/16" x 24" balsa sticks, cut,
fit and glue the fin frame as shown in the photo.
Remember to save all leftover pieces.
❏ 3. From a 3/8" x 1/2" x 30" balsa stick, cut, fit and
glue the upper rear gusset. From leftover
15/16" balsa, cut, fit and glue the other 3
3/8" x
gussets.
❏ 7. Using a 3/8" x
15/16" x 24" balsa
stick, the 3/8" x 1/2" x
28-1/2" balsa stick
(leftover from the
upper rear gusset)
and a 1/8" x 3/8" x 30"
balsa stick, build the
rudder. Do not forget
the 3/8" x 1/2" gusset
in the lower corner.
❏ 8. Remove the rudder from the plan. Mark the
centerline the length of the fin trailing edge and the
rudder leading edge. Cut the hinge slots along the
centerlines where shown on the plan.
❏ 4. From the 1/8" x 3/8" x 30" balsa stick, cut, fit
and glue the 3 fin ribs in place.
❏ 9. Using the fuse plan top view as a reference,
sand the leading edge of the rudder to the “V”
6
shape shown. Make sure the “V” is large enough to
allow for the specified left and right movement of
the rudder (see “SET THE CONTROL THROWS”,
page 30).
❏ 10. Round the leading edge of the fin and the top
and trailing edge of the rudder. Note: Check the
plans to see the location of the dorsal fin and do
not sand the leading edge of the fin in that area.
BUILD THE STABILIZER
❏ 1. Place the STABILIZER PLAN on your building
board. Cover the plan with Plan Protector.
❏ 2. From the 3/8" x 3" x 24" balsa sheet, cut a 6"
length, making the stab center. Using more of the
same sheet, make the leading edge joiner.
❏ 3. Cut 6" from a 3/8" x 1/2" x 30" balsa stick. Pin
it in front of the stab center on the plans.
❏ 4. Glue the stab center and stab leading edge
joiner to the 1/2" piece pinned to your plans.
❏ 6. Using two 3/8" x 15/16" x 24" balsa sticks,
fit and glue the leading edge and trailing edge.
❏ 7. From the leftover 3/8" x 1/2" balsa stick (used to
build the fin and rudder), cut, fit and glue the stab
tips.
❏ 8. Using a 1/8" x 3/8" x 30" balsa stick, cut, fit
and glue the other four stab ribs in place. After the
glue has dried, remove the stab from your work
surface.
❏ 9. If you will be installing flying wires, drill two
5/16" holes in the balsa trailing edge in the
locations shown on the plan. Cut two 3/8" long
pieces off the 5/16" dowel. With thin CA, glue the
3/8" pieces in the holes.
cut,
BUILD THE ELEVATORS
❏ 1. Cover the elevator plans with Plan Protector.
❏ 5. From the 3/8" x 3/8" x 22" basswood stick, cut,
fit and glue the stab spar to the stab center.
❏❏ 2. From a 3/8" x 15/16" x 24" balsa stick, cut,
fit and pin one elevator leading edge to the plans.
77
❏❏ 3. From a 3/8" x 1/2" x 30" balsa stick, cut, fit
and glue the 1/2" elevator ribs and corner gusset to
the leading edge. Note: It is important that the
edge of the ribs align accurately with the plans.
❏❏ 4. From a 1/8" x 3/8" x 30" balsa stick, cut, fit
and glue the 1/8" elevator ribs to the leading edge.
❏❏ 5. From leftover 3/8" x 3" balsa (from the stab
center), cut, fit and glue the control horn mount to
the back of the leading edge and also to the
inboard elevator rib.
trailing
❏❏ 8. One at a time, install the remaining four
1/16" x 3/8" x 24" balsa sticks as you did the first,
using medium CA to glue each successive stick to
the one applied before it and pressing it in
until the CA dries. Note: Leave some
on both ends to be trimmed off later.
❏ ❏ 9. Remove the elevator from the plan.
❏ ❏ 10. Trim the laminated sticks off flush with the
elevator ribs.
❏ 11. Repeat steps 2-10, to build the second
elevator.
balsa overhang
position
❏❏ 6. Push the six T-pins in place as indicated on
the plans, ensuring that they are vertical and firmly
in place.
❏❏ 7. Wet one of the 1/16" faces of a 1/16" x 3/8"
x 24" balsa stick. Glue the stick to the aft end of the
ribs with the wet side facing out. Pull the stick
around the tip, gluing it to the ends of the leading
edge and tip ribs as you go. Note: Pull the stick just
enough to touch the pins, but do not move
them.
❏ 12. Mark the centerline of the trailing edge of the
stab and of the leading edges of the elevators. Cut
the hinge slots along the centerlines as shown on
the plan.
❏ 13. Using the fuse plan side view as a reference,
sand the leading edge of the elevator to the “V”
shape shown. Make sure the “V” is large enough to
allow for the specified up and down movement of
the elevators (see “SET THE CONTROL THROWS”,
page 30).
❏ 14. Sand the stab LE and the outside edges of
the elevators to a rounded shape.
8
BUILD THE WING
Note: The airfoil used on this plane is semi-
symmetrical. We positioned the embossed labels
on the die-cut 3/32" balsa ribs so that they are
right-side up when the wing is right-side up. This is
the easiest way to reference the top and bottom of
the ribs.
❏ 1. Glue the two die-cut 1/8" ply W1 doublers to
the two W1B ribs. Glue the two die-cut 1/8" ply W3
doublers to two of the W3 ribs as shown. Note:
These parts mirror each other.
W3s (including the two with the doublers) to the
paper wing tube. Use your rotary tool to enlarge
the holes in the ribs as necessary. When satisfied
with the fit, remove the ribs from the tubes and set
the tubes aside.
❏ 5. Cut the two 1/8" x 2-1/8" x 14-5/8" birch ply
sheets in half, making four 1/8" x 2-1/8" x 7-5/16"
shear webs.
❏ 6. Sand a taper on the last two inches of the four
1/8" x 3/8" x 18" basswood spar doublers.
❏ 7. Glue the four spar doublers to the four 1/4" x
3/8" x 42" basswood spars with the non-tapered
end of the doublers aligned with one end of each
spar. These assemblies are now known as spars.
❏ 2. Trim W1B to match the opening in the doubler
as shown in the photo.
❏ 3. Select a W2B rib and trim it to match W1B.
❏ 4. Insert the aluminum wing tube into the paper
wing tube. Fit the two W1Bs, two W2Bs and four
❏ 8. Glue the die-cut 1/8" ply forward and rear strut
braces to two of the W5 ribs as shown.
❏❏ 9. Cover your right wing panel with Plan
Protector. Cross-pin the bottom spar in place on
the plan, aligning the inboard end with the centerline
of the wing, with the spar doubler facing up.
❏❏ 10. Pin the 1/4" x 3/8" x 42" balsa wing jig to
the plans, with the 1/4" edge against the plans.
Notice how the jig is skewed to provide the required
wing twist (washout).
9
9
❏❏ 11. Select two of the four W3 ribs you fitted to
the wing tube. Position them in the two W3
locations where the wing tube installs. Glue those
two W3 ribs, one W3 (which was not fitted to the
tube), three W4 and two W6 ribs vertically to the
bottom spar. Glue one W5 with a strut brace and
one W5 without a strut brace in the locations
shown.
❏❏ 14. Glue the 1/8" x 3/8" x 42" basswood
bottom aft spar in place, being careful to keep the
ribs straight over the plans.
❏❏ 15. Glue the die-cut 1/8" ply W1A in place at
the root of the wing with the spars firmly set in the
notches.
❏❏ 12. Using a square to make sure the top spar
aligns with the bottom spar, fit and glue the top
spar in place.
❏❏ 13. Using the 3/32" x 4" x 24" balsa, cut, fit and
glue the shear webs in place. Note: You will install
the remaining balsa shear webs in the bays that
have pins in them after the wing is turned over.
❏❏ 16. Remove the T-pins at the root of the spar.
Using 6-minute epoxy, fit and glue the ply shear
webs (you cut earlier) in place.
❏❏ 17. Glue W1B and W2B in place over the
plans.
❏❏ 18. Glue the top 1/8" x 3/8" x 42" basswood aft
spar in place.
10
❏❏ 19. Cut the paper wing tube in half. Insert the
aluminum tube inside the paper tube. Using medium
CA, glue the paper tube to the four ribs and the ply
shear web, aligning the end with the root rib.
Remove the aluminum tube from the paper tube.
❏❏ 20. Fit and glue the die-cut 1/8" ply tube plug
in the outboard end of the paper tube.
❏ ❏ 21. Glue the die-cut 1/8" ply W2A rib in place.
❏ ❏ 24. Using a razor plane and/or sanding bar,
shape the top of the sub leading edge to the
contour of the ribs. Trim the sub leading edge flush
with the wing tip rib and the root rib.
❏❏ 25. From a 1/4" x 1" x 24" balsa stick, fit and
glue the trailing edge in place in the aileron bay.
Sand the top to the shape of the ribs.
❏❏ 26. From a 3/8" x 3/4" x 24" balsa stick, cut
and glue the four hinge doublers in place.
❏❏ 22. Glue the die-cut 1/8" ply dowel plate (DP)
in place.
❏❏ 23. Glue the 1/8" x 1" x 42" balsa sub leading
edge to the ribs, centering it vertically on the front
of the ribs.
SHEET THE WING
❏❏❏❏ 1. Cut a 1" x 42" strip from a 3/32" x 3" x
42" balsa sheet.
❏❏❏❏ 2. Edge glue the 1" strip to a 3/32" x 3" x
24" balsa sheet as shown in the photo.
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