Dynaflite DYFA3901 User Manual

TM

TM

•

Simple

Ent

ry Level

Construction

• Stable Flight Characteristics

• Excellent R/C Trainer

READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION MANUAL FIRST. IT CONTAINS
IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY
AND USE OF THIS MODEL.

Instruction Manual

WARRANTY

Dynaflite guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of
purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no
case shall Dynaflite's liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Dynaflite reserves
the right to change or modify this warranty without notice. In that Dynaflite has no control over the
final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any
damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using
the user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability. If you are not prepared to accept
the liability associated with the use of this product, return this kit immediately in new and unused
condition to the place of purchase.

WANDP03 Printed in USA

MADE IN

I

ntroduction.......................................................2

Precautions........................................................3

Preparations.......................................................3

Required

Suggested Building Supplies........................3-4

Optional Building Supplies...........................4

Building
Glossary of Terms Used in
This

Manual
Die-Cut
Build the Horizontal Stabilizer

and Elevator..................................................8-10

Install the Hinges
Finish

the

Build the Fuselage........................................11-15

Install the Hatch
Build the
Build the
Final

Wing

Align

the
Balance the
Finishing

Final Assembly............................................22-23

Assemble
Install the Radio
Set

the Control
Balance

Pre-Flight..........................................................27

Charge the
Ground
Range Check

Flying

First

Landing......................................................28

Items

..............................................3

Notes.................................................4-5

and

Plans.....................................

Patterns..................................................7

.........................................10-11

Fin

and

Rudder..................................11

...........................................15-16

Wing

Root

Panel............................16-18

Wing

Tip Panel

Assembly

Stabilizer

Model

.....................................................21-22

the

Pushrods

System

Throws

Your

Model.....................................26-27

Batteries

Check

Your

...............................................................28

Flight...................................................28

..............................18-20

........................................20

to

the

Wing

.........................21

Laterally..............................2

................................23-24

...............................24-25

......................................26

....................................27

Your

Model...........................27

Model.............................28

5-6

The 72" version of the Wanderer was developed by
Mark Smith as a first-time building and flying
project. Since its introduction in 1975, over 85,000
kits have been produced. Over the years the
Wanderer has been updated with many changes
recommended to us by first-time builders. The
Wanderer still has the same basic aerodynamics as
the original kit, but has been simplified to make
assembly quicker and easier.

At Dynaflite we take pride in offering kits that are
simple and straightforward to build and provide
value for your modeling dollar.

To make your R/C modeling experience totally
enjoyable, we recommend that you get assistance
with your first flights from an experienced,

1

knowledgeable modeler. You'll learn faster and
avoid risk to your model before you're truly ready to
solo. Your local hobby shop has information about
flying clubs in your area whose membership
includes qualified instructors.

You can also contact the national Academy
Model Aeronautics (AMA), which has more than
2/500 chartered clubs across the country. We
recommend you join the AMA, which will provide
you with insurance coverage at AMA club sites and
events. AMA Membership is required at chartered
club fields where qualified flight instructors are
available. Contact the AMA at the address or toll­free phone number below:

of

Congratulations on your choice of this kit for your
next project. If you are new to radio control
modeling, we would like to take a minute to give
you some background on the Wanderer.

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie,IN 47302

[phone]

Fax [phone]

Internet address : http://www.modelaircraft.org

2

1. You must assemble the sailplane according to the
instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as
doing so may result in an unsafe or unflyable model.
In a few cases the instructions may differ slightly
from the photos or plan. In those instances the text
should be taken as correct.

2. You must take time to build straight, true and strong.

3. You must install all R/C and other components so
that the model operates properly on the ground and
in the

air.

4. You must test the operation of the model before
the first and each successive flight to insure that all
equipment operates correctly. You must also make
certain that the model has remained structurally
sound, especially after a rough landing.

NOTE: We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you
with a quality kit and great instructions, but
ultimately the quality and flyability of your
finished model depends on how you assembled it;
therefore, we cannot in any way guarantee the
performance of your completed model and no
representations are expressed or implied as to the
performance or safety of your completed model.

REQUIRED ITEMS

These are the items not included with your kit; you
will need to purchase them separately. Items in
parentheses (GPMQ4243) are suggested part
numbers recognized by distributors and hobby
shops and are listed for your ordering convenience.
GPM is the Great Planes® brand, TOP is the Top
Flite®

brand,

is the Dynaflite™ brand.

HCA

is

the

Hobbico®

2 - 4 channel radio with two standard servos.
Top Flite MonoKote® (Approximately 2 rolls)
1/4" Latex Foam Rubber (HCAQ1050)
Switch and Charge Jack (GPMM1000)
2 Meter Up-Start (DYNP8305) or Standard

Hi-Start(DYNP8301)

brand

and DYN

SUGGESTED BUILDING

SUPPLIES

We recommend Great Planes Pro™ CA and Epoxy
glue.

Please inventory and inspect all parts carefully

before starting to build. If any parts are missing,

broken or defective, or if you have any questions
about building or flying this model, please call us
at [phone] and we'll be glad to help. If
you are calling for replacement parts, please
look up the part numbers and have them ready
when calling.

2 oz. Pro CA (Thin, GPMR6003)

1 oz. Pro CA- (Thick, GPMR6014)
6-Minute Pro Epoxy (GPMR6045)
30-Minute Pro Epoxy (GPMR6047)

4 oz. Pro Wood Glue (GPMR6161)

Hand or electric drill

Sealing Iron (TOPR2100)

Hobby saw

3

SUGGESTED BUILDING

SUPPLIES, CON'T.

Hobby Knife (HCARO 105)
#11 Blades
Pliers (Common and Needle Nose)

Screw driver (Phillips)
T-pins(HCAQ5150)
60" Retractable Tape Measure (HCAR0478)
Straightedge With Scale
Masking Tape (TOPR8018)
Sandpaper (coarse, medium, fine grit)
Easy-Touch™ Bar Sander (or similar)
Plan Protector (GPMR6167)
Lightweight Balsa Filler such as Hobbico®
HobbyLite™ (Hobbico HCAR3400)
IsopropyI Rubbing Alcohol (70%)
Ballpoint Pen
90° Building Square
Heavy Sewing Thread (any color)
#64 Rubber Bands
Drill bits: 1/16", 5/64", 3/32", and 3/16"

Great Planes Easy-Touch Bar Sanders are made
from lightweight extruded aluminum and can be
found at most hobby shops. They are available in
five sizes - 5-1/2" (GPMR6169) for those tight,
hard to reach spots; 11" (GPMR6170) for most
general purpose sanding; and 22" (GPMR6172),
33" (GPMR6174) and 44" (GPMR6176) for long

surfaces such as wing leading edges. Easy-Touch
Adhesive-Backed Sandpaper comes in 2" x 12"
rolls of 80-grit (GPMR6180), 150-grit (GPMR6183)
and 220-grit (GPMR6185) and an assortment of 5-

1/2" long strips (GPMR6189) for the short bar
sander. The adhesive-backed sandpaper is easy to
apply and remove from your sanding bar when it's
time for replacement.

Custom sanding blocks can be made from balsa or
hardwood blocks and dowels for sanding difficult to
reach spots.

OPTIONAL BUILDING

SUPPLIES

CA Applicator Tips (HCAR3780)
Epoxy Brushes (GPMR8060)
Epoxy Mixing Sticks (GPMR8055)
CA Debonder (GPMR6039)
Hot Sock™ (TOPR2175)

Single Edge Razor Blades (HCAR0312)

Heat Gun (TOPR2000)
Razor Plane (Master Airscrew®)

• When you see the term "test fit" in the
instructions, it means you should first position
the part on the assembly without using any
glue and then slightly modify or sand the part
as necessary for the best fit.

4

• Whenever the instructions tell you to glue pieces
together, thin CA should be used. When a
specific type of glue is required, the instructions
will state the type of glue that is highly

recommended. When 30-minute epoxy is
specified, it is highly recommended that you

use only 30-minute (or slower) epoxy because
you will need either the working time and/or
the additional strength.

Airfoil: A curved structure designed to create lift by
the reaction to air moving over its surface.

C.G. (Center of Gravity): This is the point at which
the model balances forward and aft and side-to-side.

• Do not throw away any leftover material until

after you have completed your model. Some
small pieces of leftover balsa or plywood are
used during construction.

This kit is built using three types of glue.

Cyanoacrylate - CA glues cure almost instantly and
are moderately strong. There are three common
types used: thin, medium and thick. Thin CA cures
the fastest but will not span gaps between parts.
Medium and thick CA are used where parts do not
fit perfectly. CA glue does not bond well to most

plywoods and hardwoods. CA glues are also brittle.
When using CA glues we recommend keeping a
bottle of CA debonder on your building table in
case you need to undo a joint or "un-stick"
your fingers.

Aliphatic Resin - Resin glues require that parts be
pinned or clamped together while the glue dries ­typically 15 to 30 minutes. Resin glues are very
strong and work well with balsa and plywoods.

Clevis: A small clip which is threaded onto the wire
end of a pushrod and connects the pushrod to the
control horn of a control surface. The threads allow
fine adjustment of pushrod length.

Control Horn: The arm which is attached to a
control surface at the hingeline and is connected to
a pushrod.

Die-Cut Parts: Precut parts stamped out of a sheet of

wood. The parts require a minimum of preparation.

Dihedral: The V-shaped bend in the wing. Typically
more dihedral causes more aerodynamic stability in
an airplane, and allows the rudder to control both
the roll and yaw axis.

Doubler: Part of the structure that is laminated to

another part to increase its strength.

Elevator: The hinged control surface located at the

trailing edge of the horizontal stabilizer, which

provides control of the model about the pitch axis
and causes the model to climb or dive. The correct
direction of control is to pull the transmitter elevator
control stick back, towards the bottom of the
transmitter, to move the elevator upward, which
causes the airplane to climb. Pushing the control
stick forward will cause the model to dive.

Epoxy - Six-minute epoxy cures the fastest; it sets
within six minutes but is not fully cured for one hour
or more. Thirty-minute epoxy is the strongest as it
allows the epoxy to soak into the wood thoroughly.
While it sets within 30-minutes, it is not fully cured
for two or more hours.

Foam Rubber: A soft foam material used to wrap
the receiver and receiver battery for protection.

Gusset: A brace used to reinforce the joint between
2 parts.

5

High-Start: A device used to launch a model glider
like a slingshot. This device consists of a stake, an
elastic tube/ monofilament line (or string), a
parachute or streamer and a ring for attaching the
high-start to the glider.

Laminate: The process of gluing a multiple number
of sheets face-to-face to increase strength.

Horizontal Stabilizer: The non-moving horizontal
tail surface at the back of the fuselage which
provides aerodynamic pitch stability.

Pitch Axis: The sailplane axis controlled by the
elevator. Pitch is illustrated by holding the sailplane
at each wing tip. Raising or lowering the nose is the
pitch movement.

Sailplane: An airplane which flies without an
engine. Sailplanes are designed to ride on warm,
rising air currents, called thermals. Sailplanes are
launched by several methods: a giant sling shot
called a high-start; a winch which pulls the sailplane
up like a kite; or with the assistance of a small
engine or electric motor.

Servo: The electronic/mechanical device which
moves the control surfaces of the sailplane
according to the commands from the receiver. The
radio device which does the physical work inside

the sailplane.

Servo arm: The removable arm or wheel which
bolts to the output shaft of a servo and connects to
the push rod.

Tow Hook: A device used to connect the tow line to
the sailplane during launch.

(Transmitter: The hand-held radio controller. This is

the unit that sends out the commands that you input.

Pushrod: A rigid piece of steel, plastic or wood used

to transfer movement from a servo to a control surface.

Receiver (RX): The radio unit in the sailplane which
receives the transmitter signal and relays the control
to the servos. This is somewhat similar to the radio
you may have in your family automobile, except the
radio in the glider perceives commands from the
transmitter and the radio in your car perceives
music from the radio station.

Rudder: Hinged control surface located at the
trailing edge of the vertical stabilizer, which
provides control of the sailplane about the yaw axis
and causes the sailplane to yaw left or right. Left
rudder movement causes the sailplane to yaw left

and right rudder movement causes it to yaw right.

Vertical stabilizer: The non-moving surface that is

perpendicular to the horizontal stabilizer, often
referred to as the fin, providing lateral stability. The
rudder attaches to this surface.

Wing: The main lifting surface of an airplane.

Yaw Axis: The glider axis controlled by the rudder.

Yaw is illustrated by hanging the glider level by a
wire located at the center of gravity. Left or right
movement of the nose is the yaw movement. Many
gliders are not equipped with ailerons and the roll
and yaw axis are controlled by the rudder. This is
due to the larger amount of dihedral in the wing and
is why most sailplanes have a large amount of dihedral.

6

Die-Cut Layout

INNER
PANEL

GUSSETS

OUTER
PANEL

GUSSETS

NOTES ON REMOVAL OF DIE CUT PARTS FROM THE SHEET

1. Sand both sides of all die cut sheets enough to remove loose wood Fibers.

2. Bend each sheet slightly, along the direction of the grain, to identify the
side that is not cut completely through.

3. Sand this side until most of the parts can be easily removed from the sheet.

4. If a part is difficult to remove, use a sharp hobby knife to cut any
slivers of wood that are holding it in place.

7

1. Unroll the plan sheet. Roll the plans inside out
to make them lie flat. Wax paper or Great Planes
Plan Protector placed over the plan will prevent
glue from sticking to the plan.

U 2. Cut an 18" long piece from the 3/16" x 15/16"
x 30" balsa stick. Pin the 18" long piece over the
horizontal stabilizer trailing edge.

Q 3. Cut a 10" long piece from the remaining
3/16" x 15/16" x 12"
over the left leading edge of the horizontal
stabilizer. Carefully mark and cut the end of the
leading edge to match the centerline of the
stabilizer. Pin the left leading edge piece in position.

balsa

stick.

Place

the

stick

LJ 6. From the remaining 3/16" x 15/16" balsa
stick, cut and fit stabilizer center sections between

the leading edges and trailing edge. Position the fin

between the two center sections for the proper
spacing. DO NOT glue the fin in position. Glue the
center sections to the leading and trailing edge.

Q 7. From a 3/16" x 3/16" x 24" balsa stick, cut/
fit and glue stabilizer ribs between the leading edge
and trailing edge. Also, cut a 1 /2" long piece and
glue it in position between the stabilizer center sections.

Ul 4. Cut another 10" long piece from the second
3/16" x 15/16" x 30"
over the right leading edge of the horizontal
stabilizer and cut the end of the right leading edge
to butt tightly against the center of the left leading
edge. Pin the right leading edge piece in position
and glue it to the left leading edge.

Q 5. From the remaining 3/16" x 15/16" x 20"
balsa stick, cut, fit and glue stabilizer tips between

the leading and trailing edges.

balsa

stick.

Place

the

stick

I—l 8. Pin the two shaped balsa elevators in position
over the plans, making sure the beveled ends are
toward the center.

Q 9. Center the pre-bent 1/16" elevator joiner
wire on the elevators and mark the location of the

"arms" on the leading edge of the elevators.

8

Q 10. Drill 1/16" holes, 9/16" deep, in the
leading edge of the elevators at the marked
locations. Make sure the two holes are perpendicular

to the leading edge. Be careful that the drill bit does

not break through the sides of the elevators.

Q 14. For a more secure fit, file or grind four or
five notches in each arm of the elevator joiner wire.
Thoroughly clean the joiner wire with isopropyi alcohol.

Q 15. Pack 30-minute epoxy into both elevator
joiner wire holes and in the groove on the leading
edge of the elevators. Install the joiner wire in both
elevators. Wipe off any excess epoxy with a paper
towel dampened with isopropyi alcohol. Before the
epoxy cures, place a piece of wax paper over the
joiner wire and pin the elevators flat to the building
board with the leading edge against the trailing
edge of the stabilizer.

Q 11. Cut a small groove from the hole to the

inboard end of the elevators. Gradually deepen the
groove until the joiner wire fits flush with the leading
edge of the elevators. With the elevator joiner wire

installed, the wire must be flush with the leading
edge of the elevators.

Q 12. With the joiner wire installed in the
elevators, place the assembly on a flat surface.
MAKE SURE both elevators lie flat. If they do not,

remove the joiner wire and twist it slightly. It is very

important that both elevators lie flat.

U 13. Remove the joiner wire. Mark a centerline
on the leading edge of both elevators and carefully
sand the leading edges to a "V shape as shown on
the fuselage plan.

Q 16. Remove the elevator and stabilizer from the
building board after the epoxy has cured.

1-J 17. Draw the outline for the tips on the stabilizer
and elevator using the plan as a pattern. Cut and
sand the stabilizer and elevator tips to shape.

9