Dynaflite DYFA3040 User Manual

• BUILDS QUICKLY

• REALISTIC FUN SCALE® MODEL

• HUGE, 89" WINGSPAN (IMAA Legal)

READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION MANUAL FIRST. IT CONTAINS
IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY
AND USE OF THIS MODEL.

Instruction Manual

Dynaflite guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the
date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or
modification. In no case shall Dynaflite's liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit.
Further, Dynaflite reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice. In that
Dynaflite has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability
shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final
user-assembled product. By the act of using the user-assembled product, the user accepts all
resulting liability. If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of

this product, return this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.

CHPGP03 Printed in USA V1.0 Entire Contents © Copyright 2000

WARRANTY

Introduction................................................2

Precautions ................................................2

Preparations

..............................................3

Required Accessories..........................................3

Optional
Suggested
Building

Adhesives

Accessories

Supplies

Notes

..........................................4

............................................4

....................................................5

............................................................5

Common Abbreviations......................................6

Types

of

Wood

....................................................6

Inch/Metric Ruler..................................................6

Die-Cut Patterns............................................7 & 8

Build the Stabilizer & Elevators

................9

Build the Vertical Fin & Rudder................10

Build the

Build

Build the Wing

Join the Wing
Build the Ailerons

Fuselage

the

Bulkheads

....................................12

..........................................12

..........................................19

Panels

................................23

....................................26

Build the Flaps..........................................27

Mount
Finish the

the Wing

Fuselage

to

the Fuselage

..............28

..................................29

Final Assembly..........................................33

Finishing
Set the Control Throws
Balance
Balance the Model Laterally

..................................................35

............................36

Your

Model

..................................36

....................37

Preflight....................................................37

At

Home

............................................................37

At the Flying Site ..............................................38

Engine Safety Precautions
AMA

Safety Code (excerpt)

......................38

......................39

Flying ........................................................39

Find a Safe

Place

to

Fly

....................................39

Takeoff................................................................40

Flight ..................................................................40

Landing

..............................................................40

At Dynaflite we take pride in offering kits that
are simple and straightforward to build and
provide value for your modeling dollar.

Because of the size and cost of this model we
assume you have built several models and have
a general working knowledge of modeling and
its terms. If you HAVE NOT built and flown
several kits, do yourself a favor - back up and
get some experience before beginning this kit.

1.You must build the plane according to the
plan and instructions. Do not alter or modify
the model, as doing so may result in an unsafe
or unflyable model. In a few cases the plan

and instructions may differ slightly from
the photos. In those instances the plan
and written instructions are correct.

2. You must take time to build straight, true
and strong.

3. You must use a proper R/C radio that is in

first class condition, the correct size of engine
and correct components (fuel tank, wheels,
etc.) throughout your building process.

4. You must properly install all R/C and other
components so that the model operates
properly on the ground and in the air.

5. You must test the operation of the model
before every flight to insure that all equipment
is operating and you must make certain that the
model has remained structurally sound.

Congratulations on your choice of this kit for
your next project. The Chipmunk is a Fun Scale®
model of a true classic aircraft. It has the
presence that only a big model can carry off.

6. If you are not already an experienced R/C
pilot, you must fly the model only with the

help of a competent, experienced R/C pilot.

Remember: Take your time and follow
instructions to end up with a well-built
model that is straight and true.

2

Your Chipmunk is not a toy, but a sophisticated
working model that functions very much like an
actual airplane. Because of its realistic

performance, if you do not assemble and
operate your Chipmunk correctly, you could
possibly injure yourself or spectators and
damage property.

If you are calling for replacement parts,
please look up the part numbers and the
kit identification number (stamped on the
end of the carton) and have them ready
when you call.

To make your R/C modeling experience
totally enjoyable, get assistance with
assembly and your first flights from an
experienced, knowledgeable modeler.

You'll learn faster and avoid risking your model
before you're truly ready to solo. Your local
hobby shop has information about flying clubs
in your area whose membership includes
qualified instructors.

Your Dynaflite Chipmunk is intended for
scale and general sport flying including mild
aerobatics such as chandelles, stall turns,
loops and rolls. Its structure is designed to
withstand such stresses. If you intend to use
your Chipmunk for more rigorous types of
flying such as aggressive aerobatics or
flying from rough fields, it is your
responsibility to reinforce areas of the
model that will be subjected to the resulting

unusually high stresses.

Note: We, as the kit manufacturer, provide
you with a quality kit and great instructions,
but ultimately the quality and flyability of
your finished model depends on how you
assembled it; therefore, we cannot in any
way guarantee the performance of your
completed model and no representations are
expressed or implied as to the performance or

Isafety of your completed model.

Please inspect all parts carefully before
you start to build! If any parts are missing,
broken or defective, or if you have any
questions about building or flying this
model, please call us at [phone].
You can also reach us by e-mail at:

productsupport@dyna flite. com

You can also contact the Academy of Model
Aeronautics (AMA), which has more than 2,500
chartered clubs across the country. We
recommend you join the AMA which will insure
you at AMA club sites and events. AMA
Membership is required at chartered club fields
where qualified flight instructors are available.

Contact the AMA at the address or toll-free
phone number below.

Academy of Model

Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302

[phone]

Fax [phone]

Internet address:

http://www.modelaircraft.org

REQUIRED ACCESSORIES

These are the items "not included" with you kit,
that you will need to purchase separately. Items
in parentheses such as (GPMQ4107) are suggested
part numbers recognized by distributors and
hobby shops and are listed for your ordering

3

convenience. GPM is the Great Planes® brand,
TOP is the Top Flite® brand and HCA is the

Hobbico® brand.

4-6 Channel Radio with One Standard Servo
(Three with Flaps) and Five HighTorque Servos.
(2) "Y" Connectors (Ailerons, Flaps)
(2) 12" Servo Extension Wires
Engine - 1.08 to 1.5 2-stroke, 1.2 to 1.6
4-stroke or 25cc Gasoline
Exhaust Header, In-cowl Muffler
Fuel Filler Valve (GPMQ4160 Glow,
GPMQ4161 Gas)

2-3/4" Spinner (GPMQ4527, Red)

Engine Mount and Mounting Hardware

16 oz. Fuel Tank (GPMQ4107) (or Gasoline
CompatibleTank)
Standard Fuel Tubing (GPMQ4131) (or
Gasoline CompatibleTubing)
(2) 4" Main Wheels (ROBQ1537)
(1) 1-1/2"Tail Wheel (GPMQ4243)
(4) 1/4" Wheel Collars (DUBQ1200)
(2) 1/8" Wheel Collars (GPMQ4304)
Top Flite MonoKote® Covering Film
(Approx. Four 6' Rolls)
Paint for Fuelproofing and Painting the
Engine Cowl and the Canopy
(Dor (2) 1/5 Scale Pilot(s)

1/4" Latex Foam Rubber (HCAQ1000)
(19) Heavy Duty Hinges (Twenty Seven
with flaps) (ROBQ2510)
All Pushrods and Control Hardware

- (4) Heavy Duty Control Horns (Six with
Flaps) (DUBQ1985)

- (5) 4-40 Threaded Metal Clevis (Seven with
Flaps) (GPMQ3794)

-(5) 4-40 Metal Solder Clevis (Seven with
Flaps) (GPMQ3814)

- (5) 4-40 Hex Nuts (Seven with Flaps)
(GPMQ3304)

- (2) 4-40 x 12" Wire Pushrod, Threaded One
End (Four with Flaps) (GPMQ3752)

- (3) 4-40 x 48" Pushrods (GPMQ3718)

- (1) Throttle Pushrod (GPMQ3700)

- Throttle Hardware

OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES

(2) Robart RoboStruts (Shock Absorbing)
(ROBQ1600)

SUGGESTED SUPPLIES

4 oz.Thin CA Adhesive - (GPMR6004)
4 oz. Medium CA Adhesive - (GPMR6010)
2 oz. Thick CA Adhesive - (GPMR6015)
CA Accelerator - (HCAR3750)
CAApplicatorTips - (HCAR3780)
6-Minute Epoxy - (GPMR6045)
30-Minute Epoxy - (GPMR6047)
4 oz. Aliphatic Resin Glue (GPMR6161)
Great Planes Plan Protector (GPMR6167)

4

A flat, durable, easy-to-handle sanding tool is a
necessity for building model airplanes. Great

.Planes makes a complete range if Easy-Touch"

Bar Sanders and replaceable Easy-Touch

adhesive-backed sandpaper. On our workbench,

we have four 11" Easy-Touch Bar Sanders,

equipped with #50, #80, #150 and #220-grit

sandpaper. This setup is all that is required for

almost any sanding task. Custom sanding blocks

can be made from balsa for sanding hard-to-

reach spots. We also keep some #320-grit wet­or-dry sandpaper for finish sanding before
covering.

the pieces as you cut them for later reference.

By doing this now, you won't have to splice
pieces together later.

ADHESIVES

This kit is built with three types of glue.
Cyanoacrylate: CA glues cure almost instantaneously

and are moderately strong. There are different
viscosities of CA's intended for different
conditions you will encounter when you build.
Thin CA is great for "tack-gluing," for glue joints
that fit well and for parts that are already joined
but need to be permanently bonded. Medium
CA is used for general construction where you
apply glue to one part, then join it to another
part. Thick CA is great for glue joints that don't

fit perfectly or parts that require a little time for

positioning before the glue cures. You will
encounter many other conditions that require
one or the other types of CA.

For future reference, here's a list of Easy-Touch
Bar Sanders and adhesive-backed sandpaper:

5-1/2" Bar Sander(GPMR6169)

11" Bar Sander (GPMR6170)

22" Bar Sander (GPMR6172)

12' Roll of adhesive-backed sandpaper,

80-grit(GPMR6180)
150-grit(GPMR6183)
220-grit (GPMR6185)

Assortment pack of 5-1/2" strips (GPMR6189)

BUILDING NOTES

IMPORTANT: During construction you will be

using a number of balsa sticks to frame various
assemblies. Ample material is included but you
should study the plans, then make an effort to
cut the longest pieces you will need first. Label

Always use CA in a well ventilated area. Open
some windows or place a fan in the room to
circulate the air. Do not lean directly over your
work when you use CA and look away while it
cures or "sets off." CA can cure immediately
upon contact with skin so if you accidentally

bond your fingers, do not use vigorous motion
to separate them. Use CA Debonder (GPMR6039)
or acetone (nail polish remover) or soak your
fingers in warm water for a few minutes.

Never point the tip of a CA bottle toward your
face and be especially careful when you unclog
a CAtip. Hobbico CAApplicatorTips (HCAR3780)
are highly recommended and will help keep the
bottle from clogging. Keep paper towels or
tissues close by to immediately absorb excess
CA dropped on your model or work area. Read
all the warning labels on your CA bottle. CA
Accelerator is a chemical that you can spray
over uncured CA to make it cure immediately. A
mist spray of accelerator will do the job. Do not
inhale the vapors! Some modelers "preprime"

5

the parts to be glued with accelerator, join
them, then add the CA. This way the CA is
guaranteed to cure immediately. This
prepriming is especially handy when you use
thin CA because it will cure before all of the
glue soaks into the wood away from the joint.
We do not recommend you build your entire
model with this method and use accelerator
only when necessary. Often, overspray from
accelerator used hours or even days earlier on
nearby glue joints will cause the CA you use on
the next step to cure prematurely and
unexpectedly - so be careful!

Throughout the assembly of this model, THIN
CA should be used unless the step calls for
another type of adhesive.

minute epoxy is the strongest as it allows the
epoxy to soak into the wood thoroughly. While
itsets within 30 minutes, it is not fully cured for

two or more hours.

COMMON

Fuse = Fuselage
Ply = Plywood

" = Inches

ABBREVIATIONS

Stab = Horizontal Stabilizer
LE = Leading edge (front)
TE =Trailing edge (rear)

Aliphatic Resin: Resin glues require that parts
be pinned or clamped together while the glue
dries; typically 15 - 30 minutes. Resin glues are

very strong and work well with balsa and

plywoods.
Epoxy: Epoxy glues are the strongest but

require the most time to cure. Six-minute epoxy
cures the fastest; it sets within six minutes but
is not fully cured for one hour or more. Thirty-

Inch Scale

0"

1"

2"

3"

TYPES OF WOOD

Balsa Basswood Plywood

4"

5"

6"

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 110 120 130 140 150

Metric Scale

6

Die-Cut Pattern

CHPGIPW06

1/16" X 3-3/8" X 16" PLY

CHPGW05

CHPGW04 2 REQ.

CHPGW03A 2 REQ.

1 REQ.

1/8" X 5-3/8" X 20-5/8" PLY

3/32" X 3" X 18" BALSA

Note: If you will be building functional flaps for your
Chipmunk, glue in the lightening holes in ribs W4
and W5.

Note: This page shows the location of the die-cut
parts for the wing. Not all parts are marked on the die
sheets. Be sure to mark all parts with a ball point pen
prior to removing them from the die sheets.

2

REQ,

3/32" X 3" X 30" BALSA

CHPGW03 2 REQ.

3/32" X 3" X 30" BALSA

CHPGW02 2 REQ.

3/32" X 3" X 30" BALSA

CHPGW01 2 REQ.

3/32" X 3" X 30" BALSA

7

Die-Cut Pattern

CHPGF05 1 REQ.

1/8" X 3" X 36" BALSA

CHPGF04

1/8" X 3" X 36" BALSA

CHPGF03 1 REQ,

1/8" X 6-3/8" X 25-1/4" PLY

CHPGF02 1 REQ.

2

REQ.

TOP DECK

1/8" X 6-3/8" X 25-1/4" PLY

CHPGF01 2 REQ.

FUSELAGE SIDE

CONTROL

HORN

MOUNTS

1/8"

X

6-3/8" X 25-1/4"

PLY

Note: This page shows the location of the
die-cut parts for the fuselage. Not all parts are
marked on the die sheets. Be sure to mark all
parts with a ball point pen prior to removing
them from the die sheets.

8

STAB SHEETING

1. Cut the stabilizer drawing from the fuselage

plan and place it on your building board. Cover

the plan with Great Planes Plan Protector.

Q 2. Cut the trailing edge from 1/2" x 15/16" x
36" balsa and pin it in place over the plan.

Ql 3. Cut both leading edges from 1/2" x 15/16"
x 36" balsa and pin them in place over the plan.

Q 4. Cut and fit the ribs from 1/8" x 1/2" x 30"

balsa. Cut the longer ribs first. When satisfied

with the fit, glue them into position.

1/16"X3"X30"

BALSA SHEETING

USE LEFTOVER

FOR FIN SHEETING

Q7. Sheet the stab with 1/16" x 3" x 30" balsa on
both the top and bottom. Do this with the stab
flat on your building board and use care not to
twist it as you glue the sheeting into place. Use
pieces of leftover 1/16" balsa sheeting to sheet
the stab tips.

Ql 8, Sand the trailing edge of the stab flat as
shown on the cross-section of the plan. Rough
sand the stab to the shape shown.

I—I 9. Mark the centerline on the rear edge of the

TE along its entire length.

l-l 5. Cut and shape the tips from 1/2" x 3/4" x

12" balsa using the plans as a guide. Glue and

pin them in place.
Note: It is important that the ribs fit the LE and

TE well. It is not important that each rib fit the

exact location shown on the plan.

Q 6. Remove the stab from the plan. Sand the
top and bottom surfaces flat and even. Use care

not to gouge any of the ribs.

LI 10. Cut the four stab filler blocks from 5/8" x
15/16" x 18" balsa and glue them to the center of
the stabTE as shown on the plan and photo.
Note that two of these blocks are cut to a width
of 3/4".

9

Q 16. Notch the LE of both elevators where
shown on the plan and fit and glue the die-cut
1/8" ply horn bases into place.

Q 17. Remove the elevators from the plan and
rough sand them to the shape shown in the
cross-section. Use care not to gouge the ribs.

[.-111. Build both elevators at the same time. Cut
the leading edges from 5/8" x 1/2" x 30" balsa
and pin them to the plan.The leftover 5/8" x 1/2"
balsa will be used later for hinge blocks.

Ql 12. Cut some shims from 3/16" x 3/8" x 24"

balsa and place them in position over the plan

at theTE.The remainder of this stick will be used
for the fin ribs so be sure to save at least 14".

l-t 13. Cut the trailing edges from 1/4" x 3/4" x
30" balsa. Pin them into position on top of the
shims.

Q 14. Cut and fit the eight elevator hinge blocks
from 5/8" x 1/2" x 30" balsa. Glue them into
position where shown on the plan.

Q 18. Mark
leading edges along their entire length. Using
the cross-section on the plan as a reference,
sand
shown. Make sure the angle of the "V" is
enough to allow for the full up and down
movement of the elevators.

Q 1. Cover the fin/rudder drawing with Plan

Protector.

the leading edges to the "V" shape

the

centerline

of the

elevator

Ql 15. Cut and fit the ribs from 1/8" x 5/8" x 36"
balsa. Cut the longer ribs first. When satisfied
with the fit, glue them into position. Note that
the root and tip ribs extend full length. Note: It
is important that the ribs fit the LE andTE well.
It is

not

important that each rib fit the exact

location shown on the plan.

Q 2. Glue the three die-cut 1/8" balsa fin leading
edge pieces together to form a LE lamination.
Pin this in place over the plan.

[-I 3. Cut the fin post (trailing edge) from 3/8" x
15/16" x 18" balsa and pin it in position.

Q 4. Cut the fin base from the remaining 3/8" x
15/16" balsa and pin it into position. Glue all

three pieces together.

10

5. Cut and fit the ribs from the remainder of
the 3/16" x 3/8" x 24" balsa. Cut the longer ribs
first. When satisfied with the fit, glue them into

position.
Note: It is important that the ribs fit the LE and

TE well. It is

not

important that each rib fit the

exact location shown on the plan.
Q 6. Remove the fin from the plan. Sand the top

and bottom surfaces flat and even. Use care not

to gouge any of the ribs.

FIN SHEETING

LEFTOVER

STAB SHEETING

Q 10. Cut the rudder base from the rest of the

1/2" x 15/16" balsa. Glue and pin it into place.

I—I 11. The rudder tip leading edge is built up
from three laminations of die-cut 1/8" balsa

pieces, for a total thickness of 3/8". Glue the
three pieces together and pin them in place on
the plan, using some leftover 1/16" balsa shims
where shown.

Q 12.The rudder trailing edge is built from two
laminations of die-cut 1/8" balsa pieces, for a

total thickness of 1/4". Build two of these

assemblies using the plan as a reference.
Q 13. Cut some shims from leftover 1/8" balsa

and place them in position over the plan at the
TE where shown. Pin and glue the TE into
position.

SCRAP

SHEETING

1/16" X 3" X 10-1/2"

BALSA SHEETING

LJ 7. Sheet the fin with 1/16" x 3" x 30" balsa on

both sides. Do this with the fin flat on your
building board and use care not to twist it as

you glue the sheeting into place.

Q 8. Rough sand the fin to the shape shown in
the cross-section.

Q 9. Cut the rudder leading edge from 1/2" x

15/16" x 18" balsa and pin it to the plan.

Q 14. Cut and fit the ribs from 3/16" x 1/2" x 18"
balsa. Cut the longer ribs first. When satisfied

with the fit, glue them into position.

Note: It is important that the ribs fit the LE and

TE well. It is

not

important that each rib fit the

exact location shown on the plan.

Q 15. Remove the rudder from the plan and

rough sand it to the shape shown in the cross-

section.
Q 16. Tack glue the rudder to the fin.
Q 17. Sand the assembly to its final shape.
Q 18. Separate the rudder from the fin. Sand

the trailing edge of the fin flat as shown on the
cross-section on the plan.

Q 19. Mark the centerline of the fin trailing edge
and rudder leading edge along their entire

length. Using the cross-section on the plan as a
reference, sand the rudder leading edge to

the "V" shape shown. Make sure the angle of
the "V" is enough to allow for the full left and
right movement of the rudder.

11

Q 1.The fuselage plan is in two pieces. Cut the
plan as indicated and tape the two parts

together. Cut the fuselage top view from the

plan. Cut the drawings for bulkheads B, C, D, F
and H from the plan. Place the bulkhead
drawings on your workbench and cover them

with Plan Protector.

[-I 3. Inner bulkhead D has notches cut in the
sides for the longerons and longeron doublers.
These notches may be cut now or later when
the inner bulkhead is fitted to the fuselage side.

Q 4. Place the fuselage side plan on your
workbench and cover it with Plan Protector
from bulkhead D aft. Begin construction by

building the right rear side structure.

Q 2. Build inner bulkheads B, C, D, F and H over

the drawings using 1/4" x 1/2" x 24" balsa sticks.

l-t Q 5. Using two 1/4" x 15/16" x 36" balsa sticks,
cut and fit the rear side longerons. Pin and glue

the parts into position.

Note: The top longeron ends at the leading
edge of the stab. A separate 1/4" x 15/16" x 5-9/16"
stab mount is glued to the rear of the top
longeron, 1/8" below the top edge. The bottom
longeron has an angled cut and notch that fit

the top longeron and stab mount.

Q l-l 6. Cut the upright at bulkhead F from 1/4"
x 1/2" x 24" balsa and glue it into position.

12

CUT ALONG

EMBOSSED LINE

RIGHT FUSE SIDE

[-] 7. Locate one of the die-cut 1/8" ply forward
fuselage sides. Cut off the front end of this side

along the embossed line.This will establish two
degrees of right thrust. Note: Only the right
forward fuselage side has this cut made.

I-J10. Place the right fuselage side over the plan
and mark the locations of bulkheads B, C, D, E,
F, G, H, HTW and I on the side. Place the left side

over the right and transfer the marks to the left
side. Next, mark each inner bulkhead at the
center of the top edge. These marks and lines
will be used to align the fuselage in the
following steps.

l-l Q 8. Fit this ply fuselage front to the fuse rear.
Cut doublers for the two joints from 1/8" x 1/4"
x 30" balsa. When satisfied with the fit, glue the
ply front and doublers to the fuse rear with
6-minute epoxy.

Q 9.The left fuselage side is built over the right
side. Remove the right side from your building
board and turn it over. Use the leftover 1/8" x

1/4" stick to shim the forward ply side. Cover the
side with Plan Protector. Follow steps 5, 6 and 8
to build the left side, aligning the parts over the

right side. Do not cut the front end of the

left forward ply side.

Q 11. Glue inner bulkheads B, C and D to the
right fuselage side using 6-minute epoxy. Be
sure the bulkheads are at a 90° angle to the
side. Epoxy will produce the strongest joint but

you can use thin CA with accelerator if you are

in a hurry. Inspect each joint for gaps and re-glue
if necessary. Note:

The

top edge of each bulkhead

is 1/8" below the top edge of the ply side.

13