Dynaflite DYFA2018 User Manual

• Simple Entry Level Construction

• Stable Flight Characteristics

• Excellent R/C Trainer

READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION MANUAL FIRST. IT CONTAINS
IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY

AND USE OF THIS MODEL.

Instruction Manual

Dynaflite guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the
date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or
modification. In no case shall Dynaflite's liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit.
Further, Dynaflite reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice. In that

Dynaflite has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability
shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final
user-assembled product. By the act of using the user-assembled product, the user accepts all
resulting liability. If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of
this product, return this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.

DDRMP03 Printed in USA

WARRANTY

Entire Contents © Copyright 2000

Introduction
Precautions

Preparations...................................:...................3

Required Items..............................................................3

Suggested Building Supplies
Optional Building Supplies

Building

Adhesives

Glossary of Terms Used in
This

Manual & Plans
Die-Cut
Build

the

Build the Formers

Build

the

Bevel the
Cutting

Build

the

Fuse

Side Construction

Fuse

Structure

Preparing the Canopy

Build

the
Joining
Align

the

Install

the
Balance

Finishing............................................................19

Final

Assembly

Radio

Installation..............................................20

Pushrod

Final

Hookups & Checks

Radio Settings

Balance
Checking

Preflight............................................................

Charge
Find a Safe
Range Check

AMA

Safety

Flying ................................................................25

Trim

Flights
Your First Hi-start Launch
First

Flights
Thermal
Facts

About

Thermal Soaring................................................27

Pointers
Slope

Soaring....................................................29

Flying
Slope Landings

Ballasting..........................................................30

Flight

Log

........................................................2

........................................................2

......................................3

..........................................4

Notes

....................................................4

......................................................................5

..........................................5

Pattern

the

Wing

the

the

Installation..........................................21

the

for

the

Flying

for

..........................................................................29

..................................................7

Stabilizer & Elevator

Fin

Fin & Rudder

Hinge

Fuselage

Wing

Stab

Forward Wing

Model

Model

Batteries

Place

Code (excerpt)

......................................................25

......................................................26

Thermals........................................27

Contest

............................................Back

........................................................8

and Rudder

Assembly............................................

..................................................14

to

..................................................19

............................................................22

Warps

the

..................................................26

..........................................................29

................................................9

Slots

..............................................10

............................................10

..............................................10

................................................13

Panels....................................17

the

Wing

Laterally

............................................22

..........................................23

........................................24

to

Fly

Radio

....................................24

....................................24

Flying

..........................8

....................................9

..............................18

Fillet..........................18

............................19

..................................22

..............................24

................................25

..............................28

Cover

24

Congratulations on your choice of this kit for
your project. If you are new to Radio Control
Modeling, we would like to take a minute to
give you some information on the Daydream.

The Daydream was designed to use a modern
airfoil specifically designed for thermal gliders.
The construction of the Daydream uses the
minimum amount of materials to keep the
overall weight down. The combination of these
provides you with a model that will be able to
catch and ride out the slightest thermal.

At Dynaflite we take pride in offering kits that
are simple and straightforward to build and

11

provide value for your modeling dollar.

To make your R/C modeling experience totally
enjoyable, we recommend that you get
assistance with your first flights from an
experienced, knowledgeable modeler. You'll
learn faster and avoid risk to your model before
you're truly ready to solo. Your local hobby
shop has information about flying clubs in your
area whose membership includes qualified
instructors.

You can also contact the national Academy of
Model Aeronautics (AMA), which has more than
2,500 chartered clubs across the country. We
recommend you join the AMA, which will
provide you with insurance coverage at AMA
club sites and events. AMA Membership is
required at chartered club fields where qualified

2

flight instructors are available. Contact the AMA

at the address or toll-free phone number below:

Academy of Model

Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302

[phone]

Fax [phone]

Internet address:

http://www.modelaircraft.org

1.You must assemble the sailplane according to

the instructions. Do not alter or modify the

model, as doing so may result in an unsafe or
unflyable model. In a few cases the instructions

may differ slightly from the photos or plan. In
those instances the text should be taken as
correct.

2.You must take time to build straight, true and strong.

3. You must install all R/C and other components
so that the model operates properly on the
ground and in the air.

4. You must test the operation of the model
before the first and each successive flight to
insure that all equipment operates correctly.

You must also make certain that the model has
remained structurally sound, especially after a
rough landing.

parts are missing, broken or defective, or
if you have any questions about building

or flying this model, please call us at
[phone] and we'll be glad to help.
If you are calling for replacement parts,
please look up the part numbers and have
them ready when calling.

You may also e-mail us at:

productsupport@dynaflite. corn

REQUIRED ITEMS

These are the items not included with your
kit-you will need to purchase them separately.
Items in parentheses such as (GPMQ4243) are
suggested part numbers recognized by distributors
and hobby shops and are listed for your
ordering convenience. GPM is the Great Planes®
brand, TOP
Hobbico® brand and DYN is the Dynaflite brand.

2 - 4 Channel Radio with two standard servos

Top Flite MonoKote® (approximately 2 rolls)
1/4" Latex Foam Rubber Padding (HCAQ1050)
Switch and Charge Jack (GPMM1000)
2 Meter Up-Start (DYNP8305) or Standard
Hi-Start(DYNP8301)

is

the

Top

Flite®

brand,

HCA

is

the

Note: We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you
with a quality kit and great instructions, but

ultimately the quality and flyability of your
finished model depends on how you assembled it;
therefore, we cannot in any way guarantee the
performance of your completed model and no
representations are expressed or implied as to the
performance or safety of your completed model.

Please inventory and inspect all parts
carefully before starting to build. If any

SUGGESTED BUILDING

SUPPLIES

We recommend Great Planes Pro CA and

Epoxy glue.

2 oz. Pro CA (thin, GPMR6003)
2 oz. Pro CA+ (medium, GPMR6009)

3

6-Minute Pro Epoxy (GPMR6045)

30-Minute Pro Epoxy (GPMR6047)
4 oz. Pro Wood Glue (GPMR6161)
Hand or Electric Drill
Sealing Iron (TOPR2100)
Hobby Saw
Hobby Knife (HCAR0105)

#11 Blades

Pliers (common and needle nose)
Screwdrivers (phillips)
T-pins(HCAQ5150)

60" RetractableTape Measure (HCAR0478)

Straightedge with scale
MaskingTape (TOPR8018)

Sandpaper (coarse, medium, fine grit)
Easy-Touch'" Bar Sander (or similar)

Plan Protector (GPMR6167)
Lightweight Balsa Filler such as Hobbico
HobbyLite'" (HCAR3400)
IsopropyI Rubbing Alcohol (70%)
Ballpoint Pen

90° Building Square

Heavy Sewing Thread (any color)

#64 Rubber Bands
Drill bits: 1/16", 5/64", 3/32", 3/16", 1/4"

OPTIONAL BUILDINGOPTIONAL BUILDING

SUPPLIES

Single-Edge Razor Blades (HCAR0312)
Heat Gun (TOPR2000)
Razor Plane (Master Airscrew®)

Great Planes Easy-Touch Bar Sanders are
made from lightweight extruded aluminum and
can be found at most hobby shops. They are
available in five sizes - 5-1/2" (GPMR6169) for

those tight, hard to reach spots; 11"

(GPMR6170) for most general purpose sanding;
and 22" (GPMR6172), 33" (GPMR6174) and 44"
(GPMR6176) for long surfaces such as wing
leading edges. Easy-Touch Adhesive-Backed
Sandpaper comes in 2" x 12' rolls of 80-grit
(GPMR6180), 150-grit (GPMR6183) and 220-grit
(GPMR6185) and an assortment of 5-1/2" long
strips (GPMR6189) for the short bar sander.The

adhesive-backed sandpaper is easy to apply

and remove from your sanding bar when it's

time for replacement.

This setup is all that is required for almost any
sanding task. Custom sanding blocks can be

made from balsa or hardwood blocks and

dowels for sanding difficult to reach spots.

CAApplicatorTips (HCAR3780)

Epoxy Brushes (GPMR8060)
Epoxy Mixing Sticks (GPMR8055)
CA Debonder (GPMR6039)
Hot Sock" (TOPR2175)

•When you see the term "test fit" in the
instructions, it means you should first
position the part on the assembly without
using any glue and then slightly modify or
sand the part as necessary for the best fit.

4

•Whenever the instructions tell you to glue
pieces together, thin CA should be used.

When a specific type of glue is required,

the instructions will state the type of glue

that is highly recommended. When 30-minute

epoxy is specified, it is highly recommended
that you use only 30-minute (or slower)
epoxy because you will need either the

working time and/or the additional strength.

Airfoil: A curved structure designed to create
lift by the reaction to air moving over its surface.

• Do not throw away any leftover material

until after you have completed your model.
Some small pieces of leftover balsa or

plywood are used during construction.

ADHESIVES

This kit is built with three types of glue.

Cyanoacrylate - CA glues cure almost instantly
and are moderately strong. There are three
common types used: thin, medium and thick.
Thin CA cures the fastest but will not span gaps
between parts. Medium and thick CA are used
where parts do not fit perfectly. CA glue does
not bond well to most plywoods and
hardwoods. CA glues are also brittle. When
using CA glues we recommend keeping a bottle
of CA debonder on your building table.

Aliphatic Resin - Resin glues require that
parts be pinned or clamped together while the
glue dries - typically 15 to 30 minutes. Resin
glues are very strong and work well with balsa

and plywoods.

Epoxy - Six minute epoxy cures the fastest; it

sets within six minutes but is not fully cured for
one hour or more. Thirty minute epoxy is the
strongest as it allows the epoxy to soak into the

wood thoroughly. While it sets within 30 minutes,

it is not fully cured for two or more hours.

C.G. (Center of Gravity): This is the point at

which the model balances forward and aft and
side-to-side.

Clevis: A small clip which is threaded onto the
wire end of a pushrod and connects the
pushrod to the control horn of a control surface.
The threads allow fine adjustment of the
pushrods' length.

Control Horn: The arm which is attached to a
control surface at the hingeline and is
connected to a pushrod.

Die-cut Parts: Precut parts stamped out of a
sheet of wood. The parts require a minimum of
preparation.

Dihedral: The V-shaped bend in the wing.
Typically more dihedral causes more aerodynamic
stability in an airplane, and causes the rudder to
control both the roll and yaw axis.

Doubler: Part of the structure that is laminated

to another part to increase its strength.
Elevator: The hinged control surface located at

the trailing edge of the horizontal stabilizer,
which provides control of the model about the
pitch axis and causes the model to climb or
dive. The correct direction of control is to pull
the transmitter elevator control stick back,
towards the bottom of the transmitter, to move
the elevator upward, which causes the airplane
to climb and vice versa to dive.

Foam Rubber: A soft foam material used to
wrap the receiver and receiver battery for
protection.

5

Gusset: A brace used to reinforce the joint

between two parts.

High-start: A device used to launch a model
glider like a slingshot. This device consists of a
stake, an elastic tube, monofilament line (or
string), a parachute or streamer and a ring for
attaching the high-start to the glider.

Laminate: The process of gluing a multiple
number of sheets face-to-face to increase
strength.

Horizontal Stabilizer: The non-moving horizontal
tail surface at the back of the fuselage which
provides aerodynamic pitch stability.

Sailplanes are launched by several methods: a
giant sling shot called a high-start or a winch
which pulls the sailplane up like a kite.

Servo: The electronic/mechanical device which
moves the control surfaces of the sailplane
according to the commands from the receiver.
The radio device which does the physical work
inside the sailplane.

Servo Arm:The removable arm or wheel which
bolts to the output shaft of a servo and connects
to the pushrod.

Tow Hook: A device used to connect the tow
line to the sailplane during launch.

Pitch Axis:The sailplane axis controlled by the
elevator. Pitch is illustrated by holding the
sailplane at each wingtip. Raising or lowering
the nose is the pitch movement. This is how the
climb or dive is controlled.

Pushrod: A rigid piece of steel, plastic or wood
used to transfer movement from a servo to a
control surface.

Receiver (RX):The radio unit in the sailplane
which receives the transmitter signal and relays
the control to the servos. This is somewhat
similarto the radio you may have in yourfamily
automobile, except the radio in the glider
perceives commands from the transmitter and
the radio in your car perceives music from the
radio station.

Rudder: Hinged control surface located at the
trailing edge of the vertical stabilizer, which
provides control of the sailplane about the yaw
axis and causes the sailplane to yaw left or
right. Left rudder movement causes the sailplane
to yaw left and right rudder movement causes it

to yaw right.

Transmitter: The hand-held radio controller.
This is the unit that sends out the commands
that you input.

Vertical Stabilizer: The non-moving surface
that is perpendicular to the horizontal stabilizer,
often referred to as the fin, providing lateral
stability. The rudder attaches to this surface.

Wing:The main lifting surface of an airplane.

Yaw Axis: The glider axis controlled by the

rudder. Yaw is illustrated by hanging the glider
level by a wire located at the center of gravity.
Left or right movement of the nose is the yaw
movement. Many gliders are not equipped with
ailerons and the roll and yaw axis are controlled

by the rudder. This is due to the larger amount
of dihedral in the wing and is why most
sailplanes have a large amount of dihedral.

Sailplane: An airplane which flies without an
engine. Sailplanes are designed to ride on
warm, rising air currents, called thermals.

6

Die-Cut Pattern

7

BUILD THE FORMERS

Q 1. Unroll the plan. Re-roll the plan inside out
to make it lie flat. Wax paper or Great Planes

Plan Protector" placed over the plan will
prevent glue from sticking to the plan.

Start by cutting and placing the longest piece
first, working until you are placing the shortest

(end) pieces. Glue each piece together using

medium CA as you proceed.

BUILDING HINT:

If you are unfamiliar with "Built-up"

construction, we have found that the

following method is very easy and accurate.

A. Position an uncut stick directly over the
plan and pin it in place.

Q 2. Place the 3/16" x 1" x 14" balsa stick over
the portion of the plan marked leading edge
joiner, and line up the back edge of the stick
with the straight line. Draw two angled lines
where you will cut this stick. There are two

dashed lines on the plan to help in drawing the

lines in the correct location. Remove the stick
from the plan and cut the stick along the lines

using a hobby knife or razor saw. Straighten
and square the cut edges with a sanding block.
Trim the ends slightly to match the length
shown on the plan.

Q 3. Pin the stab forward center into position on
the plan. Test fit the 3/16" x 2" x 3" balsa stab
center into place. There should be no gaps
between the center and forward pieces. After
fitting, pin and glue the center to the forward
using medium CA.

Q 4. Use two 3/16" x 3/8" x 36" balsa sticks to
build the outside framework of the stabilizer.

B. Mark each side of the stick where it ends
or butts with another part.

C. Remove the stick from the building
surface and flip it over. Draw a line
between the marks you made previously
using a straightedge.

D. Using a razor saw, cut as close to the line
as possible. Then, with your sanding block,

true-up the ends to the line. Flip the part

over and pin back in place over the plan.

0 5. Cut and install the stab bracing using a
3/16" x 3/16" x 36" balsa stick. Note: It is best to
start with the straight pieces, then go to the
angled pieces. The alignment of each piece to
the plan is not critical, just as long as it is close
and fits snugly into position. Use the remaining
wood from the stab forward center for the
gussets in the corners.

8

Q 6. Remove the stabilizer from your building
surface. Examine and add thick CA glue to any
open joints, then use your sanding block with

medium (150-grit) sandpaper to sand both

sides of the stabilizer framework smooth.

Q 3. Remove the rudder from your building
surface. Examine and add thick CA glue to any
open joints, then use your sanding block or bar
sander with medium (150-grit) sandpaper to
sand both sides of the rudder smooth.

Q 7 Build the elevator from the 3/16" x 3/16" x 36"

balsa sticks and the 3/16" x 3/8" x 36" balsa sticks.

BUILD THE FIN & RUDDER

Ql 1. Position the plan on your work surface so
the rudder and fin can be built directly on the

plan. Wax paper or Great Planes Plan

Protector placed over the plan will prevent

glue from sticking to the plan. Build the outside
frame of the rudder using the 3/16" x 3/8" x 36"

balsa stick. Cut and install the corner gusset
from the remaining 3/16" x 3/8" balsa.

Q 2. Build the inner framework of the rudder

using 3/16" x 3/8" x 36" and 3/16" x 3/16" x 36"

balsa sticks.

Q 4. Build the fin from the remaining 3/16" x
3/8" x 36" and 3/16" x 3/16" x 36" balsa sticks.
Examine and add thick CA glue to any open
joints, then use your sanding block or bar
sander with medium (150-grit) sandpaper to
sand both sides of the fin smooth.

Q 5. Place the fin and rudder flat on your work

surface and sand them flat using a sanding
block or bar sander and 150-grit sandpaper.
Don't forget to sand both sides smooth.

BEVELTHE FIN & RUDDER

Q 1. Referring to the cross-sections on the plan,
carefully block sand the elevator and rudder
leading edges to the shape shown on the plan.

Q 2. Using 180-grit sandpaper, round the leading
edge and tips of both'the fin and stabilizer.
Leave the trailing edges square. Round the
trailing edges and tips of the rudder and
elevator as shown on the plan using 180-grit­sandpaper.

9

CUTTING THE HINGE SLOTS

Q 1. Lay the rudder and elevator on the plan
sheet and mark the hinge locations. Place the
rudder against the finTE and transfer the marks
over to the fin. Place the elevator against the
stabTE and transfer the marks on to the stab.

I..1 2. To cut the slots for the hinges, use the

following steps:

A. Begin by carefully cutting a very shallow
siit at the hinge position on the centerline.This
first cut is to establish your cut in the right
place, so concentrate on staying on the
centerline and don't cut too deep!

Ql B. Make three or four more cuts in the same
line, going slightly deeper each time. As you

make these additional cuts, work on going

straight into the wood. Continue the process
while "wiggling" the knife handle forward and
backward until the blade has reached the proper
depth for the hinges.

Q 2. Use two of the 1/8"x 1/4" x 24" balsa sticks
to make the upper and lower fuse rails. Use

medium CA to glue them into position.Trim the

excess extending past the stabilizer base.

Q 3. Once the glue sets, remove the fuse side
from your building surface. Examine and add
thick CA glue to any open joints, then use your
sanding block or bar sander with medium (150­grit) sandpaper to sand both sides of the
fuselage side smooth.

Ql 4. Repeat steps 1 through 3 to build another
fuse side.

1-.1 C.Test fit the hinge into the slot. If the hinge
is difficult to push in, re-insert the knife and
move it back and forth in the slot a few times to
enlarge the slot.

Q 3. Insert the hinges into the slots and test fit
the rudder and elevator to the fin and stabilizer.

Do not glue the hinges until after you have
covered the model.

FUSE SIDE CONSTRUCTION

Q 1. Locate the die-cut 1/8" balsa stabilizer
bases and fuse sides. Drill two 1/4" holes in

the fuselage sides at the punch marks. Pin one
side and one base over their appropriate
locations on the plan.

Q Q 5. Select four of the hardest 1/16" x 3" x
24" balsa sheets to be used for the fuse sides.
Cut a 45° on one of the 1/16" x 3" x 24" sheets.
Use a straightedge to true up the longer edge of

the sheet. Align the bottom fuse rail with the

10