Dynaflite DYFA1009 User Manual

TM
TM
EASY TO BUILD...EASY TO FLY
• FORGIVING FLIGHT CHARACTERISTICS
LARGE WINGSPAN • LIGHT WING LOADING
READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION MANUAL FIRST. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.
.049 POWERED MOTOR GLIDER
Dynaflite guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Dynaflite's liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Dynaflite reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice. In that Dynaflite has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability. If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, return this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.
POCKP03 Printed in USA Entire Contents © Copyright 1996
WARRANTY
Introduction.....................................................2
Precautions......................................................3
Preparations...................................................3
Required Setting
Required Supplies & Tools................................4
Optional Accessories.......................................4
Building
Common Abbreviations...................................5
Types
A Note About Cyanoacrylate Glue...................6
Metric Ruler................................................... 6
Build
Build
Build The Fin, Stabilizer & Elevator...................8
Finish The Tail Surfaces....................................8
Build
Build Build Prepare
Join The Inner Wing Panels............................17
Join The Outer & Inner Wing Panels...............18
Finish
Build
Build Prepare Join
Sheet The Bottom Of The Fuselage..................22
Install The Firewall........................................22
Install
Sheet The Top Of The Fuselage.......................24
Mount The Landing Gear...............................26
Mount
Align
Align Align
Covering........................................................30
Prepare The Model For Covering....................30
Covering How Covering
Final Construction...........................................33
Shape The Flying Surfaces.............................33
Join
Hinge The Control Surfaces............................34
Accessories
Up
Shop..............................................4
Notes................................................5
Of
Wood...............................................5
The
Tail
Surfaces
The
Rudder.............................................7
The
Wing...............................................10
The
Inner
The
Outer
The
Panels
The
Wing............................................
The
Fuselage..........................................
The
Formers
The
Fuselage
The
Fuselage
The
Servos & Pushrod
Your
Engine.......................................27
The
Tail
Group......................................28
The
Stab..............................................28
The
Fin
................................................29
Tips
...............................................30
To
Cover
Your
Sequence
The
Tail
Surfaces
......................................3
......................................7
Wing
Panels
..........................10
Wing
Panels
.........................15
For
Joining
.........................................19
Sides
Sides.................................20
Model
.......................................32
To
......................17
...........................19
Guides...............23
.............................30
The
Fuselage
............33
18
19
Fuelproofing.................................................34
Final Hook
Connect Finish Balance
Set The Control Throws..................................38
Preflight.........................................................39
Charge Ground Gather Range
Engine Flying
Find A Safe
Takeoff.........................................................41
Flight...........................................................41
Landing.......................................................42
Congratulations and thank you for purchasing the Dynaflite Piece 0' Cake. The Piece 0' Cake is a "powered sailplane" or "motor glider" and is an ideal model to learn radio controlled flying - especially if you are not able to locate an experienced flight instructor and must try it on your own. Because of its large wingspan and light wing loading, the Piece 0' Cake is a gentle model that will give you time to think and react. For the same reasons/ you must reserve first flight attempts for a calm day - more on that in the "Flying" section at the end of the manual. The
Piece 0' Cake does not require a powerful engine. Any .049 will do the job - all the engine has to do is provide a little thrust and the large wing will do the rest!
The way you fly the Piece 0' Cake is to let it climb (it will
do from you) and fly it around rather like a sailplane. This doesn't sound like much action but don't worry; if
you're a beginner you'll be busy. Most important, you'll develop the hand/eye coordination required to fly traditional sport/trainers. Enough said. Please read the rest of the preliminary information thoroughly, then let's get started!
2
Ups & Checks................................35
The
Servos.......................................35
Installing
Your
The
Check
Your
Check
Safety
............................................................41
that
The
Radio..............................36
Model
......................................38
Batteries
Tools..........................................39
The
Precautions...............................40
Place
almost
.....................................39
The
Model..............................39
Radio.................................40
To
Fly
................................41
by
itself
with
just
a little guidance
Your Piece 0' Cake is not a toy, but a sophisticated working model that functions like a full-size airplane.
Because of its performance, if you do not assemble and operate the Piece 0' Cake correctly, you could possibly injure yourself or spectators and damage property. To make your R/C modeling experience
totally enjoyable, we recommend that you get assistance with assembly and your first flights from an experienced, knowledgeable modeler. You'll
learn faster and avoid risk to your model before you're truly ready to solo. Your local hobby shop has
information about flying clubs in your area whose membership includes qualified instructors.
You can also contact the national Academy of Model Aeronautics (AMA), which has more than 2,300 chartered clubs across the country. We recommend you join the AMA, which will provide you with insurance coverage at AMA club sites and events. AMA Membership is required at chartered club fields where qualified flight instructors are available.
3. You must install all R/C and other components so that the model operates properly on the ground and in
the
air.
4. You must test the operation of the model before the first and each successive flight to insure that all equipment operates correctly. You must also make certain that the model has remained structurally sound.
NOTE: We, as the kit manufacturer, can provide you
NOTE: We, as the kit manufacturer, can provide you
with a quality kit and great instructions, but
with a quality kit and great instructions, but
ultimately the quality and flyability of your finished
ultimately the quality and flyability of your finished model depends on how you assemble it; therefore,
model depends on how you assemble it; therefore,
we cannot in any way guarantee the performance
we cannot in any way guarantee the performance of your completed model and no representations are
of your completed model and no representations are expressed or implied as to the performance or
expressed or implied as to the performance or safety of your completed model. Please inventory
safety of your completed model. Please inventory and inspect all parts carefully before starting to
and inspect all parts carefully before starting to build! If any parts are missing, broken or
build! If any parts are missing, broken or
defective or if you have any questions about
defective or if you have any questions about building or flying this model, please call us at
building or flying this model, please call us at (217) 398-8970 and we'll be glad to help. If you
(217) 398-8970 and we'll be glad to help. If you
are calling for replacement parts, please look up the
are calling for replacement parts, please look up the part numbers and have them ready when you call.
part numbers and have them ready when you call.
Contact the AMA at the address or toll-free phone
number below.
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302
(800) 435-9262
Fax (317) 741-0057
1. You must assemble the plane according to the instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so may result in an unsafe or unflyable model. In a few cases the instructions may differ slightly from the photos or plan. In those instances the text should be taken as correct.
2. You must take time to build straight, true and strong.
REQUIRED ACCESSORIES
These are the items not included with your kit that you will need to purchase separately. Items in parentheses (OSMG2691) are suggested part numbers recognized by distributors and hobby shops and are listed for your ordering convenience. GPMis the Great Planes® brand, TOP is the Top Flite®
brand and
2 or 4 Channel Aircraft Radio System with
2 standard servos and a square battery*
Q .049 Engine with appropriate fuel and glow
plug clip
3
HCA
is
the
Hobbico®
brand.
Engine Mount (DAVG3005) Propellers - Refer to your engine's instructions for proper size
1 roll of Covering Film; See Covering Tips
(page 30)
1 /4" Latex Rubber Padding (HCAQ1000) 1/16" Foam Wing Seating Tape (GPMQ4422) (2) 1-1/2" Wheels (GPMQ4243)
(2) 3/32" Wheel Collars (GPMQ4302) #64 Rubber Bands (1 /4 Ib box - HCAQ2020)
(4) #2 x 3/8" Screw for mounting your engine
Self-Adhesive Lead Weight (GPMQ4485)
*lf your radio includes a "flat" style battery for the receiver, ask your hobby dealer if you can swap it for a square style. The square style battery fits in the fuselage better than a flat one.
SETTING UP SHOP
CA Activator - (GPMR6035) 30-Minute Pro Epoxy - (GPMR6047) #1 Hobby Knife Handle (XACR4305) #11 Blades (Qty. 100 - HCAR0311) or (Qty.5-XACR2911) Hobbico (or similar) Builders Triangle (HCAR0480) Medium T-pins Wax Paper Electric Drill Drill
Bits: Masking Tape String for aligning the stabilizer #1 Phi Hips Screwdriver Top Flite Covering Iron (TOPR2100) A building board that you can stick pins into (see "Setting Up Shop")
1/16",
(HCAR5150)
3/32"/
1/8"/
3/16
11
If this is your first model there are a few supplies and tools that you should gather before you begin. The most important item is a flat table that you can build your models on. You can turn a solid core door into a building table, but avoid hollow core doors because they warp easily. If possible, locate your building table in an area that is not in the way of other projects or household activities. Cover your building table with a board that you can stick pins into. The back of a 2' x 4' ceiling tile works well or you can cut a piece to fit your table from a 4' x 8' sheet of Celotex insulation board available from a home improvement store.
REQUIRED SUPPLIES
AND TOOLS
These are the building tools and adhesives that you will need to build your Piece 0' Cake.
We recommend Great Planes Pro™ CA and Epoxy
2 oz. Thin CA Adhesive - (GPMR6003) 2 oz. Medium CA+ Adhesive (GPMR6009)
OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES
You can build your Piece 0' Cake without these items but they will make the job much easier and provide you with better results. These are things you will accumulate as your building "career" progresses anyway.
Razor Plane (MASR1510) Single-Edge Razor Blades (100, HCAR0312) CA Applicator Tips (HCAR3780) Hot
Sock™
(for your covering 6-Minute Pro Epoxy (GPMR6045) Trim Seal Tool™ (TOPR2200) Heat Gun (TOPR2000) Straightedge (Fourmost Non-Slip, FORR2149) Denatured or IsopropyI Alcohol (for epoxy clean-up) ' HobbyLite™ Balsa Filler (HCAR3401) Epoxy Brushes (GPMR8060) CA Debonder (GPMR6039) Powered hand tool with Sanding Drum and Cut-off Wheel Bar Sander or Sanding Block and Sandpaper (coarse, medium, fine grit)* Microballoons Filler (TOPR1090)
4
iron,
TOPR2175)
*A flat, durable, easy-to-handle sanding tool is a necessity for building model airplanes. Great Planes
makes a complete range of Easy-Touch™ Bar Sanders and replaceable Easy-Touch adhesive-backed sandpaper. For the Piece 0' Cake all that is required is the short 5-1/2" Bar Sander (GPMR6169) and two assortment packages of adhesive-backed sandpaper (GPMR6189).
For future reference, here's a list of Easy-Touch Bar Sanders and adhesive-backed sandpaper:
5-1/2" Bar Sander (GPMR6169)
11 "Bar Sander (GPMR6170)
22" Bar Sander (GPMR6172)
Machine screws are designated by a number, threads per inch and a length.
For example 2-56 x 3/8"
When you see the term "test fit" in the instructions, it means you should first position the part on the assembly without using any glue, then slightly modify or "custom fit" the part as necessary for the best fit.
Whenever
either 30-minute epoxy or 6-minute epoxy. When 30-minute epoxy is specified, it is highly recommended that you use only 30-minute epoxy because you will need either the working time
and/or the additional strength.
just
"epoxy"
is
specified
you
may
use
COMMON ABBREVIATIONS
Assortment pack of 5-1/2" strips (GPMR6189)
12' Roll of adhesive-backed sandpaper,
80-grit (GPMR6180) 150-grit (GPMR6183) 220-grit (GPMR6185)
• There are two types of screws used in this kit:
Sheet metal screws are designated by a number
and a length.
For example #2 x 3/8"
Fuse = Fuselage
Stab = Horizontal Stabilizer
LE = Leading edge (front)
TE = Trailing edge (rear)
Ply = Plywood
" =Inches
Balsa Basswood Plywood
5
The most popular type of glue modelers use for general construction of R/C models is cyanoacrylate or CA glues. Modelers build with CA because it cures fast (immediately in some cases) and the pieces do not have to be clamped or pinned together as they do with traditional adhesives. CAs do, however, have their own set of special procedures and precautions that you should follow. Always use CA in a well ventilated area. Open some windows or place a fan in the room to circulate the air. Do not lean directly over your work when you use CA and look away while it cures or "sets off." CA can cure immediately upon contact with skin so if you
accidentally bond your fingers, do not use vigorous
motion to separate them. Use CA Debonder (GPMR6039) or acetone (nail polish remover) or soak your fingers in warm water for a few minutes. Never point the tip of a CA bottle toward your face and be especially careful when you unclog a CA tip. Hobbico CA Applicator Tips (HCAR3780) are highly recommended and will help keep the bottle from
clogging. Keep paper towels or tissues close by to
immediately absorb excess CA dropped on your model or work area. Read all the warning labels on
your CA bottle.
glue to one part, then join it to another. Thick CA is great for glue joints that don't fit perfectly or parts that require a little time for positioning before the glue cures. You will encounter many other conditions that require one or the other types of CA. For the
Piece 0' Cake all you really need is thin and
medium CA.
CA Accelerator is a chemical that you can spray over uncured CA to make it cure immediately. A mist spray of accelerator will do the job. Do not inhale the vapors! Some modelers "preprime" the parts to be glued with accelerator, join them, then add the CA. This way the CA is guaranteed to cure immediately. This prepriming is especially handy when you use thin CA because it will cure before all of the glue soaks into the wood away from the glue joint. We do not recommend you build your entire model with this method. Use accelerator only when necessary. Often, overspray from accelerator used hours or even days earlier on nearby glue joints will cause the CA you use on the next step to cure prematurely and unexpectedly - so be careful!
There are different viscosities of CAs intended for different conditions you will encounter when you build. Thin CA is great for "tack-gluing," for glue joints that fit well and for parts that are already joined but need to be permanently bonded. Medium CA is used for general construction where you apply
Inch Scale
0"
1"
0
10
20
2"
30
40
3"
50
60
70
Metric Scale
4"
80
90
100
6
5"
110
120
130
6"
140
150
DIE-CUT PATTERNS
7
Place your building board on top of your flat
building table. Unroll the plan sheet, then reroll it the opposite way so it will lay flat. Position the rudder and fin drawing over your flat building board. You
may separate the wing portion from the plan, or fold the plan in half to make it easier to work with. Cover the rudder and fin drawing with wax paper so the glue will not stick to the plan.
BUILD THE RUDDER
position with medium CA. Where possible, cut the sticks slightly too long so you can trim them to exact length as you complete the assembly. You can cut the tip and bottom pieces too long, and trim them after
you remove the rudder from the plan.
L-l 3. Make the rudder horn mount plate from the 1/8" x 1/4" balsa stick, then glue it in position with medium CA. Accurately cut the "braces" from a 1/8" x 1/8" x 36" balsa stick, then place them in
the frame and glue them in position with thin CA.
LJ 1. Accurately cut the three vertical rudder pieces including the leading edge (LE), rudder post (the middle part) and the trailing edge (TE) from a 1 /8" x 1/4" x 36" balsa stick. Then pin them over their locations on the plan with small T-pins. Many modelers find that they can more accurately cut small balsa sticks with a single-edge razor blade instead of a hobby knife.
LJ 2. Cut the five horizontal rudder pieces from the same 1/8" x 1/4" balsa stick, then glue them in
LJ 4. Remove the T-pins, then lift the rudder from your building board and peel off the wax paper. Reinforce glue joints that don't look strong with medium CA, then set the rudder aside and continue
with the rest of the tail pieces.
8
BUILD THE FIN,
STABILIZER & ELEVATOR
Q 1. Use the remainder of the 1/8" x 1/4" balsa stick plus three more 1 /8" x 1 /4" x 36" balsa sticks, and the remainder of the 1/8" x 1/8" balsa stick plus a second 1/8" x 1/8" x 36" balsa stick, to build the fin, stab and elevator the same way as the rudder. Remember, where possible it's easier if you cut the sticks slightly long so you can trim them to exact length after you remove the assembly from
your building board. After you complete each assembly, remove it from your building board and reinforce any glue joints that don't look strong with medium or thin CA.
Note:
Make
sure
you
use
the
1/8" x 1/4" x 3-1/2"
basswood stick for the fin trailing edge. Make the stab center from the 1 /8" x 1" x 2-3/4" balsa sheet.
Cut the angles to match the leading edge first, then trim the stab center to the length shown on the plan.
A note about sanding "built-up" tail surfaces:
Use care when you sand a lightweight balsa structure made up of "sticks." The part flexes and moves while you sand, and it can be difficult to keep your sanding block flat so you do not snag any of the small braces, or over-sand one area and make it thinner than another. Due to the design and slow flying speed of the Piece 0' Cake, a perfectly smooth finish is not necessary. For this model, the purpose of sanding is just to remove any glue bumps or uneven edges. Stop sanding when you have reduced most of the high spots. Use a large sanding block or a flat bar sander, and
do
not
apply
much
pressure
Enjoy it's not a racing plane - it's a floater.
Q 2. Use a ballpoint pen to lightly mark the location of the hinges on the control surfaces where shown on the plan.
while
you
sand,
FINISH THE TAIL SURFACES
LJ 1. See the note below/ then use your bar sander or a sanding block and 220-grit sandpaper to even the edges and blend the LE's, TE's and "braces" of all the tail surfaces so they are flat and smooth.
Q 3. Use a hobby knife with a #1 1 blade to carefully make the hinge slots. The first several cuts should be just deep enough to make a shallow slit to establish the hinge slot location.
9
CUT HINGE SLOT WITH HOBBY KNIFE AND No. 11 BLADE
After the first shallow cuts, make several more cuts going slightly deeper each time. Move the knife from side to side and widen the slot as you cut.
Q 6. Carefully separate the elevator from the stab. Then use a ballpoint pen and a straightedge to
lightly draw a line 1/16" from the leading edge on
both sides of the elevator.
7/16"
3/4"
MAKE SIX 7/16" X 3/4" HINGES FROM
THE 2" X 9" HINGE STRIP PROVIDED
Q 4. Cut six hinges from the hinge material supplied as shown in the sketch. Snip the corners off so the hinges go into the slots easier.
Q 7. Use the lines as a guide to bevel the leading edge of the elevator to a "V" with a hobby knife or a bar sander and 220-grit sandpaper.
LJ 8. Bevel the leading edge of the rudder the same
way you did the stab.
Q 9. Use your bar sander and 220-grit sandpaper to round the perimeter of the tail surfaces as shown on the plan (except of course, the edges that are
joined by hinges).
There, that was a "piece o' cake," wasn't it? Set the
tail surfaces aside for now while you build the wing
and the fuselage.
U 5. Test join the elevator to the stab, and the rudder to the fin with the hinges. Adjust the hinge slots if necessary so the control surfaces fit well.
10
BUILD THE INNER WING PANEL
U 1. Before you remove the the die-cut 3/32" balsa ribs and the die-cut 1/16" plywood parts from their die sheets, mark them with a ballpoint pen as shown on page 7. If you plan on covering the wing with transparent film, neatly mark all the ribs in the same location, or mark them in an inconspicuous location so the marks will not be seen through the covering.
Q 2. Carefully remove all the ribs and the plywood parts from their die sheets. If a rib will not easily come out of the die sheet, do not force it but use a sharp #11 blade to cut the wood where necessary. Use a bar sander and 220-grit sandpaper to remove any slivers or die-cutting irregularities.
Ql Q 3. Build the right inner wing panel first so your progress matches the photos. Cut the wing portion from the plan, or fold the plan so the right wing panel is on top. Lay the right wing plan over your building board, then cover it with wax paper.
U U 5. Accurately cut a 1/16" x 15/16" x 36" balsa sheet to a length of 1 8". Then pin it in position over the trailing edge of the plan so the root end
aligns with the centerline.
LJ LJ 6. Use a straightedge and a hobby knife to cut halfway through one W1 rib and one W3-T rib along a line connecting the aft edge of the spar notches. Cut another line 1 /16" ahead of the first on both ribs. Make the slots on the side of the rib that
will be visible when you glue the ribs in position. The
ribs in the photo are for the right wing panel. It is
easier to align they are in one piece instead of cutting all the way through. These slots are for the plywood joiners and will be cut all the way through later.
these
ribs and glue
them
in
position
if
T-Pins
Spar
U U 4. Pin a 1/8" x 1/4" x 18-1/4" basswood bottom spar over its location on the plan so the root end accurately aligns with the centerline of the wing at rib W1 on the plan. Do not insert T-pins through the spar but install them in a "criss-cross" pattern.
Q Q 7. Test fit four W3 ribs and one W3-T rib to the bottom spar and bottom TE over their locations on the plan. If necessary, adjust the notches in the ribs so they fit the spar and bottom TE. Then use a builder's triangle to make sure the ribs are perpendicular as you glue them in position with thin or medium CA.
11
Q Q 8. Position a 1/4" x 1/2" x 18" balsa leading edge over its location on the plan so the root aligns with the centerline of the wing. Securely pin the LE to the building board so it tightly contacts
the wing ribs. Then glue it in position with thin CA.
Q Q 11. Trim the 2-1/8" x 6" sheet you just made so it fits between the bottom main spar and the bottom trailing edge sheet. Accurately trim the root edge of the sheet (the left edge if you are building the right wing panel, the right edge of the sheet if
you are building the left wing panel) so it aligns with
the centerline of the wing. It's okay if the other edge
of the sheet extends past rib W2. Pin the sheet in
position but do not glue it to the wing yet.
U U 9. Mark the location of rib W2 on the leading edge and trailing edge.
Q Q 10. Cut three 2-1/8" wide strips from the
1/16" x 3" x 30" balsa sheet. Glue two of the strips together to make the 2-1/8" x 6" aft bottom sheeting that fits behind the bottom spar.
Q Q 12.
fit between the leading edge and the bottom spar so the
root end accurately aligns with the wing centerline.
Note: It is important that the root edges of the bottom sheeting accurately align with the wing centerline because those edges will be used as a guide to determine the position of rib W-1.
Q Q 1 3. Use the lines you marked as a guide to glue rib W-2 in position with medium CA. Then glue the forward and aft 1/16" bottom center section sheeting to the spar, LE, TE and rib W-2.
12
Trim
the
third
1/16" x 2-1/8" x 3"
sheet
to
Q Ql 14. Remove the T-pins from the bottom TE sheeting. Then replace them in the aft end of the ribs
to hold the rear of the wing panel securely to your
building board.
1/4" BEVEL
Q Q 15. Test fit the other half of the 1/16" x
15/16"
x 36" trailing edge
sheet
that
you
cut
to
a length of 18" in step 5. If necessary, adjust the notches in the ribs so the aft edge of the upper TE
will align with the aft edge of the lower TE.
LJ U 16. Use a 1/8" x 1/4" x 18-1/4" basswood
spar as a guide to make a line 1 /4" from one edge of the upper TE sheet with a ballpoint pen. See the sketch at step 18.
BEVEL THE UPPER TE TO FIT THE LOWER TE.
LJ LJ 18. Glue the upper TE to the bottom TE and ribs with medium CA.
LJ LJ 19. Use a builder's triangle or square and a ballpoint pen to mark, then cut, six 3/4" vertical-grain shear webs from the 3/32" x 3" x 15" balsa sheet.
Q [-I 20. Test fit but do not glue the shear webs between the ribs. If necessary, trim each shear web so the top spar will fully seat in the notches of the ribs and contact the tops of the webs.
LJ U 17. Use the line as a guide to bevel the aft edge of the sheet with your bar sander and 220-grit sandpaper.
LJ U 21. Use medium CA to glue five of the shear
webs in the center of the bottom spar between all
the ribs. You will have to temporarily remove the
T-pins, then reinsert them through the shear webs to
hold the wing to your building board.
13
Q Q 22. Test fit, then glue/ the 1/8" x 1/4" x 18-
1 /4" basswood top spar to the ribs and shear webs
with medium CA.
LJ LJ 23. Cut a notch about 1/8" from the end of two 1/8" x 1/8" x 16-1/2" basswood inner turbulator spars. The notches should go halfway through the end of the turbulator spars.
U LJ 24. Glue the turbulator spars into the ribs so the notches at the ends of the spar extend approximately 1/32" to 1/16" past rib W2. Trim the ends of the turbulator spars so they are even with tip rib W-3.
Q Q 26. Cut along the dotted line of the wing root and wing tip dihedral gauge templates on the back cover of the manual. Then glue the templates with spray adhesive or rubber cement to a piece of balsa wood or thin card stock (such as from a cereal box). Use a #11 blade and a straightedge to accurately cut the templates from the card stock along the solid outline to make the dihedral gauges.
Q LJ 27. Test fit rib W-1 and if necessary, adjust the notches so it fits between the top and bottom spars. Accurately align the bottom of W-1 with the bottom sheeting. Then use the wing root dihedral gauge hold W-1 at the correct angle and glue it in position with medium CA.
U LJ 25. Cut a small triangular piece from the end of the 1/4" x 1/4" x 15" balsa stick to make a gusset, then glue it in position with medium CA.
LJ Q 28. Remove the T-pins, then lift your wing from your building board and peel off the wax paper. Inspect the wing panel and add CA to glue joints that don't look strong.
LJ Q 29. Trim, then fit, but do not glue the sixth shear web that you already cut, between ribs W-1 and
W-2.
14
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