READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION MANUAL FIRST. IT CONTAINS
IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY
AND USE OF THIS MODEL.
.049 POWERED MOTOR GLIDER
Instruction Manual
Dynaflite guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of
purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no
case shall Dynaflite's liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Dynaflite reserves
the right to change or modify this warranty without notice. In that Dynaflite has no control over the
final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any
damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using
the user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability. If the buyer is not prepared to
accept the liability associated with the use of this product, return this kit immediately in new and
unused condition to the place of purchase.
Congratulations and thank you for purchasing the
Dynaflite Piece 0' Cake. The Piece 0' Cake is a
"powered sailplane" or "motor glider" and is an ideal
model to learn radio controlled flying - especially if
you are not able to locate an experienced flight
instructor and must try it on your own. Because of its
large wingspan and light wing loading, the Piece 0'
Cake is a gentle model that will give you time to think
and react. For the same reasons/ you must reserve
first flight attempts for a calm day - more on that in
the "Flying" section at the end of the manual. The
Piece 0' Cake does not require a powerful engine.
Any .049 will do the job - all the engine has to do is
provide a little thrust and the large wing will do
the rest!
The way you fly the Piece 0' Cake is to let it climb (it
will
do
from you) and fly it around rather like a sailplane.
This doesn't sound like much action but don't worry; if
you're a beginner you'll be busy. Most important,
you'll develop the hand/eye coordination required to
fly traditional sport/trainers. Enough said. Please read
the rest of the preliminary information thoroughly,
then let's get started!
Your Piece 0' Cake is not a toy, but a sophisticated
working model that functions like a full-size airplane.
Because of its performance, if you do not assemble
and operate the Piece 0' Cake correctly, you could
possibly injure yourself or spectators and damage
property. To make your R/C modeling experience
totally enjoyable, we recommend that you get
assistance with assembly and your first flights from
an experienced, knowledgeable modeler. You'll
learn faster and avoid risk to your model before
you're truly ready to solo. Your local hobby shop has
information about flying clubs in your area whose
membership includes qualified instructors.
You can also contact the national Academy of Model
Aeronautics (AMA), which has more than 2,300
chartered clubs across the country. We recommend
you join the AMA, which will provide you with
insurance coverage at AMA club sites and events.
AMA Membership is required at chartered club
fields where qualified flight instructors are available.
3. You must install all R/C and other components so
that the model operates properly on the ground and
in
the
air.
4. You must test the operation of the model before the
first and each successive flight to insure that all
equipment operates correctly. You must also make
certain that the model has remained structurally sound.
NOTE: We, as the kit manufacturer, can provide you
NOTE: We, as the kit manufacturer, can provide you
with a quality kit and great instructions, but
with a quality kit and great instructions, but
ultimately the quality and flyability of your finished
ultimately the quality and flyability of your finished
model depends on how you assemble it; therefore,
model depends on how you assemble it; therefore,
we cannot in any way guarantee the performance
we cannot in any way guarantee the performance
of your completed model and no representations are
of your completed model and no representations are
expressed or implied as to the performance or
expressed or implied as to the performance or
safety of your completed model. Please inventory
safety of your completed model. Please inventory
and inspect all parts carefully before starting to
and inspect all parts carefully before starting to
build! If any parts are missing, broken or
build! If any parts are missing, broken or
defective or if you have any questions about
defective or if you have any questions about
building or flying this model, please call us at
building or flying this model, please call us at
(217) 398-8970 and we'll be glad to help. If you
(217) 398-8970 and we'll be glad to help. If you
are calling for replacement parts, please look up the
are calling for replacement parts, please look up the
part numbers and have them ready when you call.
part numbers and have them ready when you call.
Contact the AMA at the address or toll-free phone
number below.
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302
(800) 435-9262
Fax (317) 741-0057
1. You must assemble the plane according to the
instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as
doing so may result in an unsafe or unflyable model.
In a few cases the instructions may differ slightly
from the photos or plan. In those instances the text
should be taken as correct.
2. You must take time to build straight, true and strong.
REQUIRED ACCESSORIES
These are the items not included with your kit that
you will need to purchase separately. Items in
parentheses (OSMG2691) are suggested part
numbers recognized by distributors and hobby
shops and are listed for your ordering convenience.
GPMis the Great Planes® brand, TOP is the Top
Flite®
brand and
2 or 4 Channel Aircraft Radio System with
2 standard servos and a square battery*
Q.049 Engine with appropriate fuel and glow
plug clip
3
HCA
is
the
Hobbico®
brand.
Engine Mount (DAVG3005)
Propellers - Refer to your engine's instructions
for proper size
*lf your radio includes a "flat" style battery for the
receiver, ask your hobby dealer if you can swap it
for a square style. The square style battery fits in the
fuselage better than a flat one.
SETTING UP SHOP
CA Activator - (GPMR6035)
30-Minute Pro Epoxy - (GPMR6047)
#1 Hobby Knife Handle (XACR4305)
#11 Blades (Qty. 100 - HCAR0311) or
(Qty.5-XACR2911)
Hobbico (or similar) Builders Triangle
(HCAR0480)
Medium T-pins
Wax Paper
Electric Drill
Drill
Bits:
Masking Tape
String for aligning the stabilizer
#1 Phi Hips Screwdriver
Top Flite Covering Iron (TOPR2100)
A building board that you can stick pins into
(see "Setting Up Shop")
1/16",
(HCAR5150)
3/32"/
1/8"/
3/16
11
If this is your first model there are a few supplies and
tools that you should gather before you begin. The
most important item is a flat table that you can build
your models on. You can turn a solid core door into
a building table, but avoid hollow core doors
because they warp easily. If possible, locate your
building table in an area that is not in the way of
other projects or household activities. Cover your
building table with a board that you can stick pins
into. The back of a 2' x 4' ceiling tile works well or
you can cut a piece to fit your table from a 4' x 8'
sheet of Celotex insulation board available from a
home improvement store.
REQUIRED SUPPLIES
AND TOOLS
These are the building tools and adhesives that you
will need to build your Piece 0' Cake.
We recommend Great Planes Pro™ CA and Epoxy
2 oz. Thin CA Adhesive - (GPMR6003)
2 oz. Medium CA+ Adhesive (GPMR6009)
OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES
You can build your Piece 0' Cake without these items
but they will make the job much easier and provide you
with better results. These are things you will accumulate
as your building "career" progresses anyway.
Razor Plane (MASR1510)
Single-Edge Razor Blades (100, HCAR0312)
CA Applicator Tips (HCAR3780)
Hot
Sock™
(for your covering
6-Minute Pro Epoxy (GPMR6045)
Trim Seal Tool™ (TOPR2200)
Heat Gun (TOPR2000)
Straightedge (Fourmost Non-Slip, FORR2149)
Denatured or IsopropyI Alcohol (for epoxy
clean-up) '
HobbyLite™ Balsa Filler (HCAR3401)
Epoxy Brushes (GPMR8060)
CA Debonder (GPMR6039)
Powered hand tool with Sanding Drum and
Cut-off Wheel
Bar Sander or Sanding Block and Sandpaper
(coarse, medium, fine grit)*
Microballoons Filler (TOPR1090)
4
iron,
TOPR2175)
*A flat, durable, easy-to-handle sanding tool is a
necessity for building model airplanes. Great Planes
makes a complete range of Easy-Touch™ Bar Sanders
and replaceable Easy-Touch adhesive-backed
sandpaper. For the Piece 0' Cake all that is required
is the short 5-1/2" Bar Sander (GPMR6169) and
two assortment packages of adhesive-backed
sandpaper (GPMR6189).
For future reference, here's a list of Easy-Touch Bar
Sanders and adhesive-backed sandpaper:
5-1/2" Bar Sander (GPMR6169)
11 "Bar Sander (GPMR6170)
22" Bar Sander (GPMR6172)
Machine screws are designated by a number,
threads per inch and a length.
For example 2-56 x 3/8"
When you see the term "test fit" in the
instructions, it means you should first position the
part on the assembly without using any glue,
then slightly modify or "custom fit" the part as
necessary for the best fit.
Whenever
either 30-minute epoxy or 6-minute epoxy. When
30-minute epoxy is specified, it is highly
recommended that you use only 30-minute epoxy
because you will need either the working time
The most popular type of glue modelers use for
general construction of R/C models is cyanoacrylate
or CA glues. Modelers build with CA because it
cures fast (immediately in some cases) and the
pieces do not have to be clamped or pinned together
as they do with traditional adhesives. CAs do,
however, have their own set of special procedures
and precautions that you should follow. Always use
CA in a well ventilated area. Open some windows
or place a fan in the room to circulate the air. Do not
lean directly over your work when you use CA and
look away while it cures or "sets off." CA can cure
immediately upon contact with skin so if you
accidentally bond your fingers, do not use vigorous
motion to separate them. Use CA Debonder
(GPMR6039) or acetone (nail polish remover) or
soak your fingers in warm water for a few minutes.
Never point the tip of a CA bottle toward your face
and be especially careful when you unclog a CA tip.
Hobbico CA Applicator Tips (HCAR3780) are highly
recommended and will help keep the bottle from
clogging. Keep paper towels or tissues close by to
immediately absorb excess CA dropped on your
model or work area. Read all the warning labels on
your CA bottle.
glue to one part, then join it to another. Thick CA is
great for glue joints that don't fit perfectly or parts
that require a little time for positioning before the
glue cures. You will encounter many other conditions
that require one or the other types of CA. For the
Piece 0' Cake all you really need is thin and
medium CA.
CA Accelerator is a chemical that you can spray
over uncured CA to make it cure immediately. A mist
spray of accelerator will do the job. Do not inhale
the vapors! Some modelers "preprime" the parts to
be glued with accelerator, join them, then add the
CA. This way the CA is guaranteed to cure
immediately. This prepriming is especially handy
when you use thin CA because it will cure before all
of the glue soaks into the wood away from the glue
joint. We do not recommend you build your entire
model with this method. Use accelerator only when
necessary. Often, overspray from accelerator used
hours or even days earlier on nearby glue joints will
cause the CA you use on the next step to cure
prematurely and unexpectedly - so be careful!
There are different viscosities of CAs intended for
different conditions you will encounter when you
build. Thin CA is great for "tack-gluing," for glue
joints that fit well and for parts that are already
joined but need to be permanently bonded. Medium
CA is used for general construction where you apply
Inch Scale
0"
1"
0
10
20
2"
30
40
3"
50
60
70
Metric Scale
4"
80
90
100
6
5"
110
120
130
6"
140
150
DIE-CUT PATTERNS
7
Place your building board on top of your flat
building table. Unroll the plan sheet, then reroll it the
opposite way so it will lay flat. Position the rudder
and fin drawing over your flat building board. You
may separate the wing portion from the plan, or fold
the plan in half to make it easier to work with. Cover
the rudder and fin drawing with wax paper so the
glue will not stick to the plan.
BUILD THE RUDDER
position with medium CA. Where possible, cut the
sticks slightly too long so you can trim them to exact
length as you complete the assembly. You can cut the
tip and bottom pieces too long, and trim them after
you remove the rudder from the plan.
L-l3. Make the rudder horn mount plate from the
1/8" x 1/4" balsa stick, then glue it in position with
medium CA. Accurately cut the "braces" from a
1/8" x 1/8" x 36" balsa stick, then place them in
the frame and glue them in position with thin CA.
LJ1. Accurately cut the three vertical rudder pieces
including the leading edge (LE), rudder post (the
middle part) and the trailing edge (TE) from a 1 /8"
x 1/4" x 36" balsa stick. Then pin them over their
locations on the plan with small T-pins. Many
modelers find that they can more accurately cut
small balsa sticks with a single-edge razor blade
instead of a hobby knife.
LJ 2. Cut the five horizontal rudder pieces from the
same 1/8" x 1/4" balsa stick, then glue them in
LJ4. Remove the T-pins, then lift the rudder from
your building board and peel off the wax paper.
Reinforce glue joints that don't look strong with
medium CA, then set the rudder aside and continue
with the rest of the tail pieces.
8
BUILD THE FIN,
STABILIZER & ELEVATOR
Q1. Use the remainder of the 1/8" x 1/4" balsa
stick plus three more 1 /8" x 1 /4" x 36" balsa sticks,
and the remainder of the 1/8" x 1/8" balsa stick
plus a second 1/8" x 1/8" x 36" balsa stick, to
build the fin, stab and elevator the same way as the
rudder. Remember, where possible it's easier if you
cut the sticks slightly long so you can trim them to
exact length after you remove the assembly from
your building board. After you complete each
assembly, remove it from your building board and
reinforce any glue joints that don't look strong with
medium or thin CA.
Note:
Make
sure
you
use
the
1/8" x 1/4" x 3-1/2"
basswood stick for the fin trailing edge. Make the
stab center from the 1 /8" x 1" x 2-3/4" balsa sheet.
Cut the angles to match the leading edge first, then
trim the stab center to the length shown on the plan.
A note about sanding "built-up" tail surfaces:
Use care when you sand a lightweight balsa
structure made up of "sticks." The part flexes and
moves while you sand, and it can be difficult to
keep your sanding block flat so you do not snag
any of the small braces, or over-sand one area
and make it thinner than another. Due to the
design and slow flying speed of the Piece 0' Cake,
a perfectly smooth finish is not necessary. For this
model, the purpose of sanding is just to remove
any glue bumps or uneven edges. Stop sanding
when you have reduced most of the high spots.
Use a large sanding block or a flat bar sander,
and
do
not
apply
much
pressure
Enjoy it's not a racing plane - it's a floater.
Q2. Use a ballpoint pen to lightly mark the location
of the hinges on the control surfaces where shown
on the plan.
while
you
sand,
FINISH THE TAIL SURFACES
LJ1. See the note below/ then use your bar sander
or a sanding block and 220-grit sandpaper to even
the edges and blend the LE's, TE's and "braces" of
all the tail surfaces so they are flat and smooth.
Q 3. Use a hobby knife with a #1 1 blade to
carefully make the hinge slots. The first several cuts
should be just deep enough to make a shallow slit to
establish the hinge slot location.
9
CUT HINGE SLOT
WITH HOBBY KNIFE
AND No. 11 BLADE
After the first shallow cuts, make several more cuts
going slightly deeper each time. Move the knife from
side to side and widen the slot as you cut.
Q6. Carefully separate the elevator from the stab.
Then use a ballpoint pen and a straightedge to
lightly draw a line 1/16" from the leading edge on
both sides of the elevator.
7/16"
3/4"
MAKE SIX 7/16" X 3/4" HINGES FROM
THE 2" X 9" HINGE STRIP PROVIDED
Q4. Cut six hinges from the hinge material
supplied as shown in the sketch. Snip the corners off
so the hinges go into the slots easier.
Q7. Use the lines as a guide to bevel the leading
edge of the elevator to a "V" with a hobby knife or a
bar sander and 220-grit sandpaper.
LJ8. Bevel the leading edge of the rudder the same
way you did the stab.
Q9. Use your bar sander and 220-grit sandpaper
to round the perimeter of the tail surfaces as shown
on the plan (except of course, the edges that are
joined by hinges).
There, that was a "piece o' cake," wasn't it? Set the
tail surfaces aside for now while you build the wing
and the fuselage.
U5. Test join the elevator to the stab, and the
rudder to the fin with the hinges. Adjust the hinge
slots if necessary so the control surfaces fit well.
10
BUILD THE INNER WING PANEL
U1. Before you remove the the die-cut 3/32" balsa
ribs and the die-cut 1/16" plywood parts from their
die sheets, mark them with a ballpoint pen as shown
on page 7. If you plan on covering the wing with
transparent film, neatly mark all the ribs in the same
location, or mark them in an inconspicuous location
so the marks will not be seen through the covering.
Q2. Carefully remove all the ribs and the plywood
parts from their die sheets. If a rib will not easily
come out of the die sheet, do not force it but use a
sharp #11 blade to cut the wood where necessary.
Use a bar sander and 220-grit sandpaper to remove
any slivers or die-cutting irregularities.
Ql Q3. Build the right inner wing panel first so
your progress matches the photos. Cut the wing
portion from the plan, or fold the plan so the right
wing panel is on top. Lay the right wing plan over
your building board, then cover it with wax paper.
U U5. Accurately cut a 1/16" x 15/16" x 36"
balsa sheet to a length of 1 8". Then pin it in position
over the trailing edge of the plan so the root end
aligns with the centerline.
LJ LJ6. Use a straightedge and a hobby knife to
cut halfway through one W1 rib and one W3-T rib
along a line connecting the aft edge of the spar
notches. Cut another line 1 /16" ahead of the first on
both ribs. Make the slots on the side of the rib that
will be visible when you glue the ribs in position. The
ribs in the photo are for the right wing panel. It is
easier to align
they are in one piece instead of cutting all the way
through. These slots are for the plywood joiners and
will be cut all the way through later.
these
ribs and glue
them
in
position
if
T-Pins
Spar
U U4. Pin a 1/8" x 1/4" x 18-1/4" basswood
bottom spar over its location on the plan so the root
end accurately aligns with the centerline of the wing
at rib W1 on the plan. Do not insert T-pins through
the spar but install them in a "criss-cross" pattern.
Q Q7. Test fit four W3 ribs and one W3-T rib to
the bottom spar and bottom TE over their locations
on the plan. If necessary, adjust the notches in the
ribs so they fit the spar and bottom TE. Then use a
builder's triangle to make sure the ribs are
perpendicular as you glue them in position with thin
or medium CA.
11
Q Q8. Position a 1/4" x 1/2" x 18" balsa
leading edge over its location on the plan so the
root aligns with the centerline of the wing. Securely
pin the LE to the building board so it tightly contacts
the wing ribs. Then glue it in position with thin CA.
Q Q11. Trim the 2-1/8" x 6" sheet you just made
so it fits between the bottom main spar and the
bottom trailing edge sheet. Accurately trim the root
edge of the sheet (the left edge if you are building
the right wing panel, the right edge of the sheet if
you are building the left wing panel) so it aligns with
the centerline of the wing. It's okay if the other edge
of the sheet extends past rib W2. Pin the sheet in
position but do not glue it to the wing yet.
U U9. Mark the location of rib W2 on the leading
edge and trailing edge.
Q Q10. Cut three 2-1/8" wide strips from the
1/16" x 3" x 30" balsa sheet. Glue two of the strips
together to make the 2-1/8" x 6" aft bottomsheeting that fits behind the bottom spar.
Q Q12.
fit between the leading edge and the bottom spar so the
root end accurately aligns with the wing centerline.
Note: It is important that the root edges of the
bottom sheeting accurately align with the wing
centerline because those edges will be used as a
guide to determine the position of rib W-1.
Q Q1 3. Use the lines you marked as a guide to
glue rib W-2 in position with medium CA. Then glue
the forward and aft 1/16" bottom center section
sheeting to the spar, LE, TE and rib W-2.
12
Trim
the
third
1/16" x 2-1/8" x 3"
sheet
to
Q Ql14. Remove the T-pins from the bottom TE
sheeting. Then replace them in the aft end of the ribs
to hold the rear of the wing panel securely to your
building board.
1/4" BEVEL
Q Q15. Test fit the other half of the 1/16" x
15/16"
x 36" trailing edge
sheet
that
you
cut
to
a
length of 18" in step 5. If necessary, adjust the
notches in the ribs so the aft edge of the upper TE
will align with the aft edge of the lower TE.
LJ U16. Use a 1/8" x 1/4" x 18-1/4" basswood
spar as a guide to make a line 1 /4" from one edge
of the upper TE sheet with a ballpoint pen. See the
sketch at step 18.
BEVEL THE UPPER TE TO FIT
THE LOWER TE.
LJ LJ18. Glue the upper TE to the bottom TE and
ribs with medium CA.
LJ LJ19. Use a builder's triangle or square and a
ballpoint pen to mark, then cut, six 3/4" vertical-grainshear webs from the 3/32" x 3" x 15" balsa sheet.
Q [-I20. Test fit but do not glue the shear webs
between the ribs. If necessary, trim each shear web
so the top spar will fully seat in the notches of the
ribs and contact the tops of the webs.
LJ U17. Use the line as a guide to bevel the aft
edge of the sheet with your bar sander and 220-grit
sandpaper.
LJ U 21. Use medium CA to glue five of the shear
webs in the center of the bottom spar between all
the ribs. You will have to temporarily remove the
T-pins, then reinsert them through the shear webs to
hold the wing to your building board.
13
Q Q22. Test fit, then glue/ the 1/8" x 1/4" x 18-
1 /4" basswood top spar to the ribs and shear webs
with medium CA.
LJ LJ23. Cut a notch about 1/8" from the end of
two 1/8" x 1/8" x 16-1/2" basswood innerturbulator spars. The notches should go halfway
through the end of the turbulator spars.
U LJ24. Glue the turbulator spars into the ribs so the
notches at the ends of the spar extend approximately
1/32" to 1/16" past rib W2. Trim the ends of the
turbulator spars so they are even with tip rib W-3.
Q Q 26. Cut along the dotted line of the wing root
and wing tip dihedral gauge templates on the back
cover of the manual. Then glue the templates with
spray adhesive or rubber cement to a piece of balsa
wood or thin card stock (such as from a cereal box).
Use a #11 blade and a straightedge to accurately
cut the templates from the card stock along the solid
outline to make the dihedral gauges.
Q LJ27. Test fit rib W-1 and if necessary, adjust
the notches so it fits between the top and bottom
spars. Accurately align the bottom of W-1 with the
bottom sheeting. Then use the wing root dihedral
gauge hold W-1 at the correct angle and glue it in
position with medium CA.
U LJ25. Cut a small triangular piece from the end
of the 1/4" x 1/4" x 15" balsa stick to make a
gusset, then glue it in position with medium CA.
LJ Q 28. Remove the T-pins, then lift your wing
from your building board and peel off the wax
paper. Inspect the wing panel and add CA to glue
joints that don't look strong.
LJ Q 29. Trim, then fit, but do not glue the sixth
shear web that you already cut, between ribs W-1
and
W-2.
14
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