Always use a qualied technician or service agency to repair this replace.
!
NOTE: Procedures and techniques that are considered important enough to emphasize.
CAUTION: Procedures and techniques which, if not carefully followed, will result in damage to the
equipment.
WARNING: Procedures and techniques which, if not carefully followed, will expose the user to the
risk of re, serious injury, or death.
2 www.dimplex.com
OPERATION
Figure 1
C
B
A
A. 3-Position Switch
The switch has two On positions marked. The “ -- “ position
is for manual operation. In this position the built-in remote
control is by-passed. The “ = “ position is for operating
the unit with the provided remote control. When in remote
control (“ = “) position the unit is operated with the On and
Off buttons of the remote control.
When the switch is in the center “o” position the unit is off.
B. Heater Switch
The Heater Switch supplies power to the heater fan and the
heater element. When the switch is in the ON position the
heater operates if the thermostat calls for heat.
C. Heater Thermostat Control
To adjust the temperature to your individual requirements,
turn the thermostat control clockwise all the way to
turn on the heater. When the room reaches the desired
temperature, turn the thermostat knob counter-clockwise
until you hear a click. Leave in this position to maintain the
room temperature at this setting. For additional heat, turn
clockwise until you hear the click again and the heater will
turn on.
Resetting the Temperature Cutoff Switch
Should the heater overheat, an automatic cut out will turn
the replace off and it will not come back on without being
reset. It can be reset by switching the 3-Position Switch to
Off and waiting ve (5) minutes before switching the unit
back on.
!
NOTE: If operating the unit with a remote control, the
remote may require re-initializing after turning the power
off.
CAUTION: If you need to continuously reset the heater,
disconnect power and call Dimplex customer service at
1-888-DIMPLEX (1-888-346-7539).
Remote Control
The replace is supplied with a radio frequency remote
control. This remote control has a range of approximately
50 feet (15.25 m), it does not have to be pointed at the
replace and can pass through most obstacles (including
walls). It is supplied with one of hundreds of independent
frequencies to prevent interference with other units.
!
NOTE: Before attempting any operation with the
remote, pull the plastic insulator strip out from between
the remote casing and battery cover (Figure 2).
!
NOTE: The remote control is an EEPROM system;
therefore if power is interrupted for whatever reason,
the built-in receiver board will hold the memory of
the remote’s radio frequency for up to 24 hours. The
remote should continue to operate the replace as
normal once unit is re-powered. Re-initialization of the
remote control to the replace should only be required
if there is a loss of power to the receiver for longer than
24 hours. (i.e. power failure, main power switch is turned
off).
To operate, push the ON button to turn replace on, push
the OFF button to turn the replace off.
!
NOTE: Ensure that the replace 3-Position switch is
set to the remote control setting.
Remote Control Initialization/Reprogramming
If the hand held transmitter or receiver board has been
replaced, follow these steps to initialize the transmitter and
receiver:
1. Place the 3-Position Switch (Figure 1A) in the OFF
(“O”) position.
2. Wait a minimum of ve (5) seconds and then place the
3-Position Switch in the Remote Control (“=”) position.
3. Within 10 seconds of changing the switch position,
press the ON button located on the remote control
(Figure 2).
This will synchronize the remote control and the replace
receiver.
!
NOTE: You will have only 10 seconds to perform this
last step. Failure to do so will result in these steps
needing to be followed again.
Battery Replacement
To replace the battery:
1. Slide battery cover open on the remote control
(Figure 2).
2. Install one (1) 12-Volt (A23) battery in the battery
holder.
3. Close the battery cover
Battery must be recycled or disposed of properly.
Check with your Local Authority or Retailer for
recycling advice in your area.
Figure 2
On
Button
Off Button
Plastic
Strip
Battery
Cover
3
MAINTENANCE
Light Bulb Replacement (Mod 0-A Only)
Allow at least ve (5) minutes for light bulbs to cool before
touching bulbs to avoid accidental burning of skin.
Light bulbs need to be replaced when you notice a dark
section of the ame or when the clarity and detail of the
log ember bed exterior disappears. There are two 2 bulbs
under the log set, which generate the ames and embers.
Light Bulb Requirements
Quantity of two 2 clear chandelier or candelabra bulbs with
an E-12 (small) socket base, 60 Watt rating. Example: GE
60BC or Philips 60 CTC.
Do not exceed 60 Watts per bulb.
Helpful Hints
It is a good idea to replace both light bulbs at one time
if they are close to the end of their rated life. Group
replacement will reduce the number of times you need to
open the unit to replace light bulbs. Care must be taken
when removing the log set.
To Access The Lower Light Bulb Area: (Figure 3)
1. Remove front glass assembly.
2. Pull the front edge of the plastic Ember Bed, plastic
grate or Media Tray (depending on Model) up and
forward until the rear tab releases from the ledge
located at the bottom of the partially reective glass.
!
IMPORTANT: Only handle the log set by the ember bed.
Glass Cleaning
The front glass is cleaned in the factory during the
assembly operation. During shipment, installation,
handling, etc., the front glass may collect dust particles,
these can be removed by dusting lightly with a clean dry
cloth.
To remove ngerprints or other marks, the glass can be
cleaned with a damp cloth. The glass should be completely
dried with a lint free cloth to prevent water spots. To
prevent scratching, do not use abrasive cleaners or spray
liquids on the glass surface.
Fireplace Surface Cleaning
To remove ngerprints or other marks, the exterior nish
can be cleaned with a damp cloth with a mild detergent.
The surface should be completely dried with a lint free cloth
to prevent water spots.
Figure 3
Flicker
!
NOTE: Log set ts tightly into rebox, some force may
be necessary to remove.
3. Set Log Set/ Media Tray in front of replace.
4. Disconnect icker from motor (see Figure 3).
5. Unscrew bulbs counter clockwise.
6. Insert new bulbs.
7. Reconnect icker to motor.
8. Replace the log set by inserting the front edge of the
log set and push down on the rear edge of the ember
bed until it snaps into place (Figure 4).
!
NOTE: Ensure the log set is installed tightly under the
back ledge to prevent light leakage.
9. Replace glass assembly.
Figure 4
Mirror
Ember Bed
Assembly
Back Ledge
Rear Tab
Front Edge
Side Section
4 www.dimplex.com
EXPLODED PARTS DIAGRAM: DF2426, DF2550, DFG2562, 6905050100-500
15
MOD 0-A
1
16
13
16
3
5
14
9
11
4
8
7
6
12
1. Remote Control ...................3000370500RP
2. Flicker Motor .....................2000210200RP
15. 30” Trim Assembly with Front Glass ..6907580100RP
16. LED Logset Assembly Mod 0-A ......0440590100RP
Mod B .......0440590300RP
17. LED Driver Mod 0-A ..............3000390100RP
Mod B. . . . . . . . . . . . . 3001170100RP
18. LED Wire Harness ................2500380300RP
19. LED Log Driver Board (Mod B only) ..3001220100RP
6
17
7
WIRING DIAGRAM - BF9000, 6907560100
MOD 0-A
BLOWER HEATER ASSEMBLY
LIGHT HARNESS ASSEMBLY
MOD B
FLICKER MOTOR
CAPACITOR
THERMOSTAT
HEATER ON/OFF
ON/OFF REMOTE
SWITCH OUPUT
OFF
REMOTE
MANUAL
CORD SET
BLOWER HEATER ASSEMBLY
LOG SET ASSEMBLY
LED LIGHT HARNESS ASSEMBLY
THERMOSTAT
FLICKER MOTOR
CAPACITOR
HEATER ON/OFF
ON/OFF REMOTE
L
SWITCH OUPUT
N
OFF
REMOTE
MANUAL
CORD SET
8 www.dimplex.com
PREPARATION FOR SERVICE
CAUTION: If unit was operating prior to servicing allow
at least 10 minutes for lights, heating elements and top
panel to cool off to avoid accidental burning of skin.
1. Remove the rebox out of the cabinet or wall frame that
surrounds the unit.
2. Disconnect power before attempting any maintenance.
!
NOTE: This unit may have been installed to a power
source in one of 2 ways: (SEE FIGURE 5 & 6).
• Option #1 – Plugged into an outlet.
A power cord with plug, inserted into an outlet near
or behind the replace, unplug the replace from the
outlet.
• Option #2 – Hardwire connection.
Power supplied from electrical wire coming from a
dedicated, properly fused circuit with 120 Volt, 15 Amp
rating directly from the main electrical panel, turn the
breaker off at the electrical panel.
• It is recommended during original installation,
there should be an allowance of up to 8 feet of
service cable for connecting power supply to the
junction box on replace.
3. Remove the front glass assembly by lifting the front
glass assembly off of the 4 mounts located on the outer
casing of the replace 2 on the left and 2 on the right.
Carefully place the glass assembly aside in a safe location.
Figure 5
Figure 6
LIGHT ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENT
MOD 0-A
Tools required: Phillips head screw driver
Small wire cutter
CAUTION: Follow “Preparation for Service” instructions
before proceeding.
1. Slightly wedge your ngers between the partially reective glass and the log-set/ember-bed on either the right
or left side. Pull the back edge of the plastic ember
bed forward until the rear tab/ledge clears past the bot-
tom of the partially reective glass and pull the log set
forward and out of the unit. (Figure 4).
!
IMPORTANT: Only handle the log-set by the plastic
ember-bed, not the logs themselves.
!
NOTE: Log-set ts tightly into rebox. Some force
may be necessary to remove.
!
NOTE: If your model has the media tray with the
decorative glass pieces as an ember bed, remove the glass
pieces then remove the plastic media tray following the
same method as the log set removal instructions.
2. Set log-set or media bed aside in a safe location.
3. Disconnect the icker rod from the motor by pulling and
twisting the rubber gasket/connector away from the
motor. This is the gasket which joins the rod and the
motor together. Once separated, pull the icker rod out
from the bracket and bushing from opposite side, and
remove it from the rebox.
!
NOTE: Be careful not to bend the rod. Doing so may
damage the rod. Ensure the rod is straight after re-instal-
lation so that it doesn’t affect the operation of the icker
effect.
4. Carefully turn the rebox upside down so that the bot-
tom panel is facing up.
5. Remove the 9 screws that hold the bottom panel in
place, 2 on the back, 2 on the left, 2 on the right and 3
on the bottom along the front edge.
6. Remove the light bulbs by turning counter clockwise.
7. Remove the rings that hold the sockets to the side
panel by turning/unscrewing the rings counter clockwise. Push the sockets out of the panel.
8. Cut the wire ties that are holding the wires to the cas-
ing.
9. Remove the light harness wire ends out of the terminal
block by removing the small Philips head screw in the 2
respective terminals.
10. Insert the wire ends from the new light harness into
the terminal block following the same orientation of the
original harness.
11. Tighten terminal screws to secure wires in place.
12. Insert the new sockets into the opening on the socket
panel on the left and right. Place the ring onto the
socket and tighten to secure the socket into place.
13. Tuck the light harness wires around the light panel/cas-
9
ing so that they will not be pinched when re-attaching
the bottom panel.
14. Insert new bulbs.
15. Re-assemble the rebox in reverse order.
!
NOTE: Ensure the rear tab/ledge on the log-set/ember-
bed is installed tightly under the bottom of the partially
reective glass to prevent light leakage.
MOD B
Tools required: Phillips head screw driver
Small wire cutter
CAUTION: Follow “Preparation for Service” instructions
before proceeding.
1. Carefully turn the rebox onto its back so that the bottom can be easily accessed.
2. Remove the 9 screws that attach the bottom panel to
the side panels, 2 on the back side, 2 on the left side,
2 on the right side and 3 on the bottom along the front
edge. (Figure 7)
3. Locate the LED light assembly and remove the 4
screws securing the assembly to the two side panels.
4. Remove the light assembly wire ends out of the terminal block by removing the small Philips head screw in
the 2 respective terminals.
5. Insert the wire ends from the new light assembly into
the terminal block following the same orientation of the
original wires.
6. Install the new LED light assembly back into the unit.
7. Re-assemble the rebox in reverse order.
!
NOTE: Ensure that when reinstalling the bottom panel
of the rebox that no wires are pinched.
Figure 7
LED Light
Assembly
Terminal Block
FLICKER MOTOR/FLICKER ROD
REPLACEMENT
Tools Required: Phillips head screw driver
CAUTION: Follow “Preparation for Service” instructions
before proceeding.
1. Slightly wedge your ngers between the back partially
reective glass and the log-set/ember-bed on either
the right or left side. Pull the back edge of the plastic
ember bed forward until the rear tab/ledge clears past
the bottom of the partially reective glass and pull the
log set forward and out.
!
IMPORTANT: Only handle the log-set by the plastic
ember-bed, not the logs themselves.
!
NOTE: Log-set ts tightly into rebox. Some force
may be necessary to remove.
!
NOTE: If your model has the media tray with the
decorative glass pieces as an ember bed, remove the glass
pieces then remove the plastic media tray following the
same method as the log set removal instructions.
2. Set log set or media tray aside in a safe location.
3. Disconnect icker rod from the motor by slightly bend-
ing the icker rod and pulling the rubber gasket off the
motor shaft. (Figure 3).
!
NOTE: Be careful not to bend the rod. Doing so may
damage the rod. Ensure the rod is straight after re-instal-
lation so that it doesn’t affect the operation of the icker
effect.
4. Carefully turn the rebox upside down so that the bot-
tom panel is facing up.
5. Remove the 9 screws that attach the bottom panel to
the side panels, 2 on the back side, 2 on the left side,
2 on the right side and 3 on the bottom along the front
edge.
6. Remove the 3 icker motor wire ends out of the termi-
nal block by removing the small Philips head screw in
the 3 respective terminals. Take note of their location
on the terminal block.
!
NOTE: A capacitor is also connected in 2 of the 3
terminals that hold the icker motor wires on the terminal
block. Take note of the terminal locations and the wire
conguration.
7. Using a Philips screwdriver (a short screwdriver is
recommended), remove the 2 screws holding the icker
motor to the mounting brackets. One screw on either
side and remove the icker motor out of the housing.
Take note of the orientation on the brackets.
8. Place the new motor into the housing and attach the
motor to the brackets using the 2 Philips screws.
9. Insert the 3 wire ends from the new icker motor as
well as the 2 wires from the original capacitor into the
terminal block following the orientation of the original
motor & capacitor. (See Assembly Part Pictures)
10. Tighten terminal screws to secure wires in place.
10 www.dimplex.com
11. Re-assemble the rebox in reverse order.
!
NOTE: Ensure the rear tab/ledge on the log-set/em-
ber-bed is installed tightly under the bottom of the partially
reective glass to prevent light leakage.
HEATER ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENT
Tools Required: Philips head screwdriver
Needle nose pliers
CAUTION: Follow “Preparation for Service” instructions
before proceeding.
1. Remove 9 screws that secure the top panel to the side
panels of the rebox using a Philips head screwdriver,
2 on the left side; 2 on the right side; 3 on the backside;
2 on the top.
2. Lift the top off the rebox. Turning the panel 45 de-
grees, rest it inside the cavity at the top to provide you
with some support and leverage while following Steps
4 & 5.
3. Noting their original location, disconnect the wires attached to the end of the heater assembly on the blower
motor and element. Using a at head screwdriver gently pry between the end of the connector and the heater
to release the wires
!
NOTE: Some of the wires may have a “piggy-back”
connector that allows a second wire to connect to the same
prong as the rst wire. Keep the “piggy-back” connection
together when pulling the wires off the heater assembly.
!
NOTE: In some cases the wire running from the
cutout will not reach the terminal block where the previous
wire was removed from, see Figure 8. The new wire is
provided with an insert connection, slide the plastic cover
up and bend the connection in half. Remove the wire on
the blower motor, that is running from the same spot off of
the terminal block, install the new bent wire, then install the
previously removed wire onto the bent connection.
4. Remove the 2 mounting brackets that attach the heater
assembly to the top panel. Ensure that the heater assembly is supported when removing the brackets.
5. Remove the mounting brackets from the heater assembly by removing the 2 Philips screws from each
bracket.
6. Attach the brackets to the new heater assembly and
then attach brackets to the top panel.
7. Re-assemble in reverse order as above.
2 on the top.
2. Lift the top off the rebox. Turning the panel 45 de-
grees, rest it inside the cavity in the top to provide you
with some support and leverage while following Step 4.
CAUTION: Support the back underside of the rebox
with a small piece of wood as the feet do not go the entire
depth of the unit and it can easily tip backwards.
3. Remove the 2 mounting brackets that attach to the
heater assembly to the top panel. Ensure that the heater assembly is supported when removing the brackets.
4. Locate the High Temperature Cutout found on the outer
casing of the heater assembly at the elements.
5. Follow the wires to the terminal block and disconnect
the 2 wires at the terminal block.
6. Using a small diameter, Philips screwdriver, remove the
old cutout and replace it with the new one following the
orientation of the original wires. (See Assembly Part
Pictures)
!
NOTE: In some cases the wire running from the
cutout will not reach the terminal block where the previous
wire was removed from, see Figure 8. The new wire is
Figure 8
Original Wiring
SHORT CONNECTION
BLOWER HEATER ASSEMBLY
TERMINAL BLOCK
New Wiring
ENSURE WIRE IS ROUTED AROUND BLOWER
TERMINAL BLOCK
HIGH TEMPERATURE CUTOUT
REPLACEMENT
Tools Required: Philips head screwdriver
Needle nose pliers
CAUTION: Follow “Preparation for Service” instructions
before proceeding.
1. Remove 9 screws that secure the top panel to the side
panels of the rebox using a Philips head screwdriver,
2 on the left side; 2 on the right side; 3 on the backside;
BLOWER HEATER ASSEMBLY
BEND
HERE
11
provided with an insert connection, slide the plastic cover
up and bend the connection in half. Remove the wire on
the blower motor, that is running from the same spot off of
the terminal block, install the new bent wire, then install the
previously removed wire onto the bent connection.
7. Re-assemble in reverse order as described above.
3-POSITION OR HEATER SWITCH
REPLACEMENT
Tools Required: Philips head screwdriver
Needle nose pliers
CAUTION: Follow “Preparation for Service” instructions
before proceeding.
1. Remove 9 screws that secure the top panel to the side
panels of the rebox using a Philips head screwdriver,
2 on the left side; 2 on the right side; 3 on the backside;
2 on the top.
2. Lift the top panel up off the rebox, turn it 45 degrees
and rest it inside the upper cavity against the back
panel.
CAUTION: Support the back underside of the rebox
with a small piece of wood as the feet do not go the entire
depth of the unit and it can easily tip backwards.
3. The switch housing panel spans across the front of the
replace, near the top. Remove the 6 screws from the
side panels that hold this front panel in place, 3 on the
left and 3 on the right side.
4. Lift the switch-housing panel up and ip it 180 degrees
towards you to expose the wires connected to the
backside of the switch.
5. Taking note of the original location of each wire connected to the switch that needs replacing, (either the
3-Position or the Heater Switch) remove the wires.
!
NOTE: Using a at head screwdriver gently pry be-
tween the end of the connector and the switch to release
the wires.
6. Noting the orientation of the switches - the markings
on the face, depress the tabs that secure the switch to
the housing from behind the panel and push the switch
out to the front. Using needle nosed pliers will give you
a better grip and t to depress both these tabs at the
same time.
7. Push the new switch in place, ensuring that both tabs
are engaged.
8. Re-assemble in reverse order as described above.
THERMOSTAT REPLACEMENT
Tools Required: Philips head screwdriver
CAUTION: Follow “Preparation for Service” instructions
before proceeding.
1. Remove 9 screws that secure the top panel to the side
panels of the rebox using a Philips head screwdriver,
2 on the left side; 2 on the right side; 3 on the backside;
2 on the top.
2. Lift the top panel up off the rebox, turn it 45 degrees
and rest it inside the upper cavity against the back
panel.
CAUTION: Support the back underside of the rebox
with a small piece of wood as the feet do not go the entire
depth of the unit and it can easily tip backwards.
3. On the front face of the switch housing, remove the 2
screws that hold the thermostat to the panel.
4. The switch housing panel spans across the entire top
on the front of the replace. Remove the 6 screws
from the side panels that hold this front panel in place,
3 on the left and 3 on the right side.
5. Lift the switch-housing panel up and ip it 180 degrees
towards you to expose the wires connected to the
backside of the thermostat.
6. Remove the dial off the control shaft by pulling forward
away from the thermostat.
!
NOTE: Note that the dial will only go back on the shaft
one way when replacing.
7. Remove thermostat from the mounting bracket by removing the 2 Philips screws located on the bracket.
8. Taking note of the original location of each wire connected to the thermostat remove the wires and place
onto the new thermostat.
!
NOTE: Using a at head screwdriver gently pry
between the end of the connector and the thermostat to
release the wires.
9. Re-assemble in reverse order as described above.
REMOTE CONTROL RECEIVER
REPLACEMENT
Tools Required: Philips head screwdriver
Needle nose pliers
Small cutter or snips
CAUTION: Follow “Preparation for Service” instructions
before proceeding.
1. Remove 9 screws that secure the top panel to the side
panels of the rebox using a Philips head screwdriver,
2 on the left side; 2 on the right side; 3 on the backside;
2 on the top.
2. Lift the top panel up off the rebox, turn it 45 degrees
and rest it inside the upper cavity against the back
panel.
CAUTION: Support the back underside of the rebox
with a small piece of wood as the feet do not go the entire
depth of the unit and it can easily tip backwards.
3. The switch housing panel spans across the entire top
on the front of the replace. Remove the 6 screws
from the side panels that hold this front panel in place,
3 on the left and 3 on the right side.
4. Lift up the switch-housing panel and carefully rest it
inside the upper cavity.
5. Taking note of the original location of each wire connected to the board, remove each wire and connect
12 www.dimplex.com
them onto the same location on the new receiver
board.
!
NOTE: Using a at head screwdriver gently pry
between the end of the connector and the circuit board to
release the wires.
6. Remove the old board off the plastic mounts, by
squeezing the tab inward and sliding the board off.
7. Replace any plastic mounts that may have broken by
pushing the old mounts out towards the back. Replace
the new mounts from the back.
8. Line up the holes on the corners of the new remote
control receiver board and press the new board onto
the mounts. Make sure the board is secure.
9. Re-assemble in reverse order as described above.
LED LOG DRIVER REPLACEMENT
Tools Required: Philips head screwdriver
Needle nose pliers
Small cutter or snips
CAUTION: Follow “Preparation for Service” instructions
before proceeding.
1. Remove 9 screws that secure the top panel to the side
panels of the rebox using a Philips head screwdriver,
2 on the left side; 2 on the right side; 3 on the backside;
2 on the top.
2. Lift the top panel up off the rebox, turn it 45 degrees
and rest it inside the upper cavity against the back
panel.
CAUTION: Support the back underside of the rebox
with a small piece of wood as the feet do not go the entire
depth of the unit and it can easily tip backwards.
3. Taking note of the original location of each wire connected to the board, remove each wire and connect
then onto the same location on the new log driver
board.
!
NOTE: Using a at head screwdriver gently pry
between the end of the connector and the circuit board to
release the wires.
4. Remove the old board off the plastic mounts, by
squeezing the tab inward and sliding the board off.
5. Replace any plastic mounts that may have broken by
pushing the old mounts out towards the top. Replace
the new mounts from the back.
6. Line up the holes on the corners of the new log driver
board and press the new board onto the mounts. Make
sure the board is secure.
7. Re-assemble in reverse order as described above.
the 2 Philips screws mounted to the back panel of the
replace.
2. Unscrew the 2 wire connectors that join the power cord
at the bottom to the wire leads coming down from the
top.
3. With a pair of needle nose pliers, open the strain relief
bushing that holds the power cord in place on the junction box cover and remove the cord.
4. Feed the new power cord through the junction box and
squeeze the new strain relief in place on the cord and
junction box.
5. Re-connect wires. –(Wide blade on the plug is the neu-
tral side of the power cord).
6. Re-assemble in the reverse order as above.
POWER CORD REPLACEMENT
Tools required: Phillips head screw driver.
Needle nosed pliers.
CAUTION: Follow “Preparation for Service” instructions
before proceeding. Steps 1 & 2 only.
1. Remove power cord junction box cover by removing
13
ASSEMBLY PART PICTURES
LOWER ELECTRICAL HOUSING
VIEW FROM THE BOTTOM
Flicker Motor
Flicker Motor Connection -
White (with capacitor wire)
Capacitor - Connects to the ter-
minals with the brown and white
wires from the icker motor
Flicker Motor Connection -
White (with capacitor wire)
Flicker Motor Connection
- Black Single
Light Socket
Lower Terminal Block
Light Harness Connection
- Neutral
Light Harness Connection
- Live
Power Cord or Hardwire
Internal Connection
UPPER PANEL TERMINAL BLOCK CONNECTIONS
White - Connects to a piggy back
connection on JP3 prong on
circuit board
Long white connects to
lower electrical housing
Red - Connects to the Inside/
middle prong on heat on/off
switch
Grey - Connects to the Thermostat
White - “Piggy-backed” to
white jumper from bottom
prong on the element
Red - From High Temperature
Cutout
Grey - From High Temperature
Cutout
Grey - To Blower motor outside
prong.
14 www.dimplex.com
Blower
HEATER ASSEMBLY CONNECTIONS
Connects to Terminal
Block
Jumper to “Piggy Back”
connection on lower
prong of element
HEATER ASSEMBLY CONNECTIONS WITH HIGH TEMPERATURE CUTOUT
White - Connects to
Terminal Block
White - Jumper to
Blower Motor
Yellow - Connects to
Thermostat
Grey - Connects to High
Temperature Cutout on
Terminal Block
Red - From the high
temperature cutout to
the terminal block.
View of Heater Assembly removed from the top panel
High Temperature Cutout
Element Housing
Blower Housing
Blower Motor
Upper Panel Terminal
Block
15
REMOTE CONTROL RECEIVER BOARD CONNECTIONS
Stand-Off Clips (4) - Attaching
receiver board to housing
VIEW FROM THE TOP RIGHT SIDE
Switch Output (Black) to outside
prong of 3-Position Switch
JP1 - Connects to inside
prong of 3-Position Switch
THERMOSTAT DIAL, HEATER AND 3-POSITION SWITCHES
Thermostat Dial
Switch Output (Black “Piggy
Back”) to “Piggy Back” Connection on Outside Prong on
Heater On/Off Switch
JP3 (White) from upper
terminal block
JP3 (White “Piggy Back”)
from lower electrical housing
EXTERIOR VIEW OF SWITCH PANEL
Heater Switch
O - Off -- On
3-Position Switch
= Remote Control
O Off
-- Manual Control
THERMOSTAT DIAL, HEATER AND 3-POSITION SWITCHES
INTERIOR VIEW – BACK SIDE OF SWITCH PANEL
Outside Prong (Black) connects to
Switch Output (Black “Piggy back”)
on Receiver Board
Middle Prong (Black) connects to
Black from lower electrical housing
Inside Prong (Red) connects to JP1
on Receiver Board
Yellow from Heating
Element
Grey from Upper
Panel Terminal Block
16 www.dimplex.com
• Outside Prong (Black) connects to
Lower Electrical Housing
• Outside Prong (Black - “Piggy Back”)
to Switch Output on Receiver Board
Inside Prong (Red) connects
to Upper Terminal Block
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
PROBLEMCAUSESOLUTION
General
Circuit breaker trips or fuse
blows when unit is turned on
Unit turns on or off by itselfRemote Control has a similar frequency
Lights dim in room while the unit
is on
Power cord gets warmNormal OperationThe power cord may get slightly warm to the touch
Appearance
Fireplace does not turn on Manually
Fireplace does not turn on with
the Remote Control
Flame FrozenDefective Flicker MotorReplace Flicker Motor
Flame not bright or ame not
visible
Log set dim, not glowing
(BF9000 only)
Flame ShutterDefective Flicker MotorReplace Flicker Motor
Light leaking around the log setLog set not positioned properlyCheck log set for proper t
Short in unit wiring.Trace wiring in unit.
Improper circuit current ratingAdditional appliances may exceed the current rating
of the circuit breaker or fuse. Plug unit into another
outlet or install unit on a dedicated 15 amp circuit.
Replace Remote Control. Initialize to Remote Control
to other remotes in the area.
Radio frequency disturbance from outside sources.
Defective Remote Control ReceiverReplace Remote Control Receiver. Initialize Remote
Unit is drawing close to circuit current
rating
Defective Power CordReplace Power Cord if cord gets hot to the touch.