Installation Manual for Model #s 24739, 24739T, 24740
DesignTech International, Inc. • 7955 Cameron Brown Court • Springfield, Virginia 22153 USA • www.designtech-intl.com • 703-866-2000 or 800-337-4468
PLEASE READ ENTIRE MANUAL COMPLETELY BEFORE BEGINNING INSTALLATION
Congratulations on your purchase of the Ready Start! Remote Car Starter. The Ready Start! Remote Car Starter system allows you to start the car by remote control
from the comfort of your home or office in order to cool it down in the summer or heat it up in the winter. Ready Start! is an extremely sophisticated system with
multiple built-in safety and security features.
Ready Start! is for automatic transmission/fuel injected vehicles only (a special “carburetor kit” is required for older carbureted vehicles). Ready Start! has a
built-in transponder security bypass system. However, additional parts may be required for certain vehicles (please see pages 8-10 for information on factory antitheft systems).
Ready Start! Remote Car Starter:
• Will start your car by remote control from up to 1,000 feet away, and run
the heater, defroster, or air conditioner to warm up or cool down the car.
• Is designed to start the car if it is in park, and only if the hood is
closed.
• Has Lock, Unlock and Trunk Pop keyless entry features.
• Will attempt to start the car for up to six seconds, but no longer (to avoid
damage to the starter motor). Should the car not start, or if it stalls after
starting, the remote starter will make two further attempts to start it.
• Has alarm functions including starter kill which becomes active when the
doors are locked with the remote control.
• Will not let the car be driven without the key in the ignition.
• Shuts itself off automatically after 10 or 15 minutes (programmable) if
you forget to come out to your car.
• Will shut off if the brake pedal is pushed, the hood is opened, or the
transmission is shifted out of park - unless the key is in the ignition and in
the “run” position.
• Allows you to remove the key while leaving the car running with the doors
locked for up to 10 or 15 minutes utilizing the Quick Stop™ Option (See
Separate User Tip Sheet).
• Can start the vehicle automatically whenever the temperature drops below
0
F (-18°C), or if the battery voltage drops below 11 volts when the Cold
°
Start™ Option is used (See Separate User Tip Sheet).
• Is the first remote car starter with a built-in transponder anti-theft bypass
module.
• Is quality engineered, microprocessor controlled, and assembled in the
USA to provide many years of reliable use.
• Comes with a Limited Two Year Warranty.
Tools required to install the Ready Start!® Unit:
Wire Cutters/Strippers
Soldering Iron
Pliers
Test meter
We highly recommend that all connections be soldered for reliability.
Electrical Tape
Screwdriver
Drill with1/4”and 5/
16” drill bits
Parts included with the Ready Start® Unit:
Remote Starter
Receiver Module
Antenna
Control Harness
(10 position)
Accessory Harness
(8 position)
The following parts are included in the plastic bag:
Alchohol
Alcohol Pad
Pad
Green 30 A Fuse
On/Off Control Switch
Transmitter(s) (two with
model 24739T or 24740)
Siren (Model 24740 only)
6 Power and Ignition
Wires
Shock Sensor
(Model 24740 only)
Ring Terminal
Hood Pin Switch Set
Transponder Loop
Wiring Diagram
Plug-In LED
4 Cable Ties
2 Protected by
DesignTech Labels
2 Yellow Butt Connectors
Foam Tape
Warning Label
*For free vehicle-specific wire information consult the DesignTech
website at www.designtech-intl.com
v4.1 39
On cars with airbags, you may notice bright yellow tubes or
harnesses marked SRS (Supplemental Restraint System)
underneath the steering column area. DO NOT tamper with these
wires in any way, to prevent personal injury and/or damage to
the air bag system.
Battery gases are explosive.
Do not smoke while working near the car’s battery.
Note: Some installers connect a battery charger to the vehicle’s battery
during installation. This is fine, but it must be removed before running the
vehicle under remote starter control.
All General Motors (GM), rear wheel drive vehicles built prior to
1995 with automatic transmissions and Dodge Dakota trucks (4
cylinder engines only) with automatic transmissions built prior
to 1996 have a MECHANICAL TYPE of NEUTRAL SAFETY
SWITCH. See important warning on the last page of these
instructions.
When running the wires through the car’s firewall, be sure to
protect them from sharp metal edges and from hot surfaces on
and around the engine.
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
1. Before You Start
Take time to read through the whole installation manual before beginning.
Always leave a window open to avoid locking your keys in your car.
IMPORTANT: After having read the entire manual, start the installation
by putting the yellow WARNING STICKER in the engine compartment.
Choose a surface that is clean and readily visible when the hood is open.
This car is equipped with a remote control starting device.
Ce véhicule est équipé d’un systéme de démarrage a distance. Mettez-le
hors fonction avant d’eflectuer toute opération d’entretien ou de réparation!
WARNING
Disable before working on car!
AVERTISSEMENT
Wait to insert the 30 amp green fuse into the holder until Step 11. As the
power is first applied to the unit the red diagnostic LED light will blink once.
Note: Failure to properly install the fuse holder and 30 amp fuse to the PINK
wire to the battery voids all product warranties.
Ignition Key Diagram for Steps 4-7
The vehicle’s wires are found coming off of the key
switch. Remove the panel under the steering column
to access these wires.
4. Blue Wire (14 AWG) – Ignition 1
Connect the BLUE wire to the ignition 1 wire of your vehicle. This wire will
measure +12 Volts on the test meter in the “run” and
“start” position, and is
off in the “lock/off” and “accessory” positions.
5. Green (14 AWG) – Ignition 2
Connect the GREEN wire to the Ignition 2 wire in the vehicle. The Ignition 2
wire can function in several different ways in your vehicle. It is important to
understand how it works. The Ignition 2 wire will usually measure +12 Volts
in the “run” position and is off (ground) in the “lock/off” and “accessory”
positions. In certain vehicles (especially late model GM vehicles), it may also
show +12 Volts in the “Start” position or Ignition 2 may turn OFF during
“Crank” and turn back ON after the starter disengages. Carefully note the
function of the Ignition 2 wire. If the Ignition 2 turns OFF during “Crank”, set
Option #4 (section 24). If Ignition 2 stays ON during “Crank,” no options
need to be changed.
6. White Wire (14 AWG) – Accessory
Connect the WHITE wire to the accessory wire which is +12 Volts in the “run”
and “accessory” position, but off in the “start” and “off” positions. In most
late model GM vehicles, connect the white wire to the orange wire that is hot
in “run” only.
7. Yellow (14 AWG) – Starter
Connect the
YELLOW wire to the starter wire. This wire will measure +12
Volts on the test meter in the “start” position only.
Note: Most Nissan vehicles have two starter wires. Connect both starter
wires of the vehicle to the
YELLOW start wire of the remote starter.
POWER & IGNITION HARNESS
The remote starter module will be installed under the dash once all wiring
has been completed. Do not mount the module at this time! You will need
to check the red diagnostic LED light as the installation progresses.
Locate (or drill) a hole in the firewall to run the PURPLE and GREEN wires of
the Control Harness and the PINK wire of the
compartment. The remaining short wires stay in the passenger area. Leave
about a foot of the wire harness under the dash for ease of working and visual
access to the diagnostic light.
The Installation Information section of our web site
is available 24 hours/day to provide you with free, up-to-date vehicle wiring
information for your particular vehicle after you log in.
Note: Always connect the PINK and BLACK wires before connecting any of
the other wires. Do not insert the fuse until Step 11.
2. Black Wire (16 AWG) – Ground
Connect the BLACK
wire to a very good, clean chassis ground in the driver’s
kick panel area. Use the small ring terminal. (The thin metal bracing around
or beneath the dash board is not always adequate.)
3. Pink Wire (12 AWG) – Power (+12 Volts)
Connect the ring terminal at the end of the short PINK
terminal of the battery. Run the long PINK wire through the firewall of your
vehicle. Join the remaining ends of the power wire together by soldering
them. Tape with electrical tape to leave no exposed wires. Alternatively, you
may wish to use the yellow butt connector, but we recommend soldering.
v3.1 39
Power Harness into the engine
www.designtech-intl.com
wire to the +12 Volt
8A. Plug-In On/0ff Switch
Mount the control switch so that it is easily accessible and so that the “ON”
position is facing upward. Make sure there is enough clearance behind the
mounted switch for the wire connections. Do not let the switch wires touch
ground. Do not plug the switch into the unit until it is mounted first.
Connection of this switch is mandatory. Use a 1/4" drill-bit for the mounting
hole.
Plug the ON/OFF control switch into the module just to the right of the power
wires. Turn the switch on.
8B. Plug-In LED Light
Drill a 5/16" hole in to the dash or panel to mount the LED light and plug the
LED light plug into the red connector. Mounting the LED light is not
mandatory but the LED light is used for alarm status, troubleshooting and
programming options.
CONTROL HARNESS
ALL WIRES ARE THE SMALLER 18 AWG SIZE
9. Purple Wire – Hood Pin Switch –
Control Harness
The hood pin switch MUST be installed with the
remote starter. It prevents operation of the remote
starter when the hood is open and is used to
initialize the unit. Connect the PURPLE wire to
the hood pin switch using the red connector.
2
To AlarmTo Remote Starter
How to share a hood pin
switch with an alarm
Note: If you already have a hood pin switch which is being used by a car
alarm system, you may share the wiring – but be sure to diode isolate each
wire going to the hood pin switch with the bands of diodes pointing towards
the pin switch as shown in the diagram.
10. Orange Wire – Brake Shut-off – Control Harness
Connect the ORANGE wire to the brake wire which receives +12 Volts when
the brake pedal is depressed. This wire must be connected. It arms a
critical safety feature which disables the remote starter when the brake pedal
is depressed.
Note: In some cars, the ignition must be in the “on” position to test the
power in the brake wire.
Note: If the Ignition 1 and Ignition 2 wires come on whenever the brake is
depressed and the hood is open this just means you need to initialize the unit
in section 11.
11. Initializing the Remote Starter
BEFORE THE UNIT WILL DO ANYTHING FOR THE FIRST TIME, YOU MUST
INITIALIZE THE REMOTE STARTER
A. Insert the 30 amp fuse into the fuse holder on the large PINK wire.
B. Turn the control switch on.
C. The remote starter requires the installer to open the hood and then press
and hold the brake pedal. Note: The ignition/dash lights will come on if
the unit is not initialized.
D. While depressing the brake (with the engine off and the hood open) turn
the ignition key to the “RUN” (not “start”) position.
E. Put the car in “DRIVE” from the “PARK” position.
F. Put the car back in “PARK” and release the brake.
G. Turn the key off and remove the key.
Note: Confirm initialization by turning the ON/OFF control switch “OFF” and
then “ON”. The red LED light on the remote start module will flash once
immediately as the switch is flipped from the “OFF” to the “ON” position.
If the red LED light did not flash when the control switch was turned “ON”
REPEAT STEPS A THROUGH G. See the colored Trouble Shooting Sheets if
necessary.
12A. Green Wire – Tach Input – Control Harness
The remote starter has two ways of monitoring the car during the starting
process. Both ways will ensure a clean, accurate start. Read about both
methods before deciding which one to use. Normally you should try the
“No Tach
“No Tach
™
” method first.
™
” Starting
This starting method does not require the connection of the GREEN tach wire.
This method will start the car by reading the car’s voltage before attempting
to start, and then looking for a voltage increase when the alternator kicks in.
This feature automatically takes into account voltage, temperature, and the
time since the vehicle was last run. The “No-Tach
™”
starting is preset at the
factory and you can skip step 12B if you would like to use it. Note that if the
vehicle is hard to start, set Option #3 (section 24) for “extended crank.”
Tachometer sensing
If the vehicle is generally hard to start (i.e. requiring a cranking time of more
than 1 second) you will get more accurate starting with the tachometer
sensing starting method. This method starts the car by reading the engine
speed (tach) information from a wire under the hood. If you choose
tachometer sensing, connect the GREEN (18 awg) wire to the car’s tach wire
under the hood (normally the negative side of the coil or tach output of coil
pack). After you have connected the GREEN wire, you need to teach the
remote starter the vehicle’s tach rate at idle. Proceed to step 12B.
Note: You must have already initialized the remote starter from Step 11.
12B. Tach Rate Learning
Note: Only use if the tachometer sensing method is chosen.
A. Connect the GREEN wire to the car’s tach wire under the hood.
B. Turn the On/Off control switch to the “OFF” position. Wait 5 seconds for
the red LED light flashes to stop.
C. Program the unit to the tach mode by pushing the White “option” button
once and watching the red LED light flash. Now push the start button on
the transmitter for a second until you see the red LED light flash again.
You are now in TACH mode. (If the red LED light flashed twice or
sometimes three times – simply push the transmitter button again until
you get only one flash).
D. Wait 5 seconds for the red LED light to flash 3 times.
E. Turn the On/Off control switch back to the “ON” position
normal
F. Start the car with the key and let it get to a
idle. Do not press on
the gas pedal.
G. Push the red “code learn” button for a second.
H. Watch the red LED light. It will come on after 3 or 4 seconds, indicating
that the tach idle rate has been learned.
I. Watch that the LED light remains on as the vehicle is running and turns
off when you rev the engine RPMs to twice the idle rate. The LED light
must go out when you rev the engine to about twice the idle rate to
confirm correct tach learning.
J. Turn the key to the “Lock/Off” position.
K. You are now finished.
Note: Once these steps are complete – you cannot use the LED to confirm tach
again. You can however repeat the above steps to learn tach over again at any
time.
OPTIONAL STEPS
13. Yellow Wire – Headlights/Parking Lights – Control
Harness
Connection of the YELLOW wire allows you to activate the low beam
headlights or parking lights for remote start and lock status. After the
remote starter has started the car, the lights will remain on until the remote
starter shuts off after 10 minutes, or when the brake pedal is pushed, or when
the car is put into gear. This is a relay +12 Volts output. Connect the YELLOW
wire to the wire that has +12 volts when the lights are on.
14. Blue – Horn/Siren (or Trunk) – Control Harness
The BLUE wire sends out a pulse once each time the remote starter starts the
car. The BLUE wire is also used to confirm Lock (one pulse) and Unlock (two
pulses)and pulses for 45 seconds when activated in the Panic/Alarm modes.
The BLUE wire has a +12 volt relay output, which can directly drive a horn or
siren.
If connecting to a horn, this BLUE wire goes to the positive wire of the horn.
If connecting to the positive side of the horn, this connection is generally
done at the horn itself under the vehicle’s hood.
If connecting to a siren, this BLUE wire connects to the positive wire of the
siren and the black ground wire of the siren connects to ground. Note: See
Option 11, (Siren constant) in “Setting Program Features” for changing
from the factory setting of ‘horn’ mode to the ‘siren‘ mode.
Installer Note:
This output can also be used to supply a +12 volt relay output to power an
electric trunk by setting option 22. If set, the BLUE wire now acts like a +12
volt positive trunk output and the GREEN/WHITE wire referenced in Option
22 now acts as a negative (-) horn/siren output. The GREEN/WHITE wire is a
negative transistor output, which can be used to directly drive the negative
horn wire at the steering column.
15. Brown/White – Alarm Disable – Control Harness
The BROWN/WHITE wire is Alarm Disable, which will give out a quick
negative pulse just before starting the vehicle. This wire can be used to turn
off the factory alarm system in vehicles which have them. In most vehicles,
this wire is located in the driver’s kick panel.
3
v3.1 39
16. White/Black Wire – Ignition #3 – Control Harness
The WHITE/BLACK wire, is a ground output
that acts just like the Ignition 1 or Ignition 2
relay outputs (active in the “run” and “crank”
positions). This wire is a 400 mA negative
transistor output and MUST be set up to
power a relay (not included). It can be used
to power the third ignition wire at the key (necessary for most Ford vehicles).
This is the wire that can also be used to bypass a passive vehicle anti-theft
system by hooking it up to the Universal Bypass Module. See the Factory
Anti-Theft System section at the end of these instructions.
17A. Keyless Entry Wires – Accessory Harness
Yellow/Red & Yellow/Green - Door Unlock - Accessory Harness - White/
Red & White/Green - Door Lock
The YELLOW/GREEN wire is the NC (normally closed) contact of the onboard door unlock relay. The YELLOW/RED wire is the C (common)
contact of the on-board door unlock relay.
The WHITE/GREEN wire is the NC (normally closed) contact of the onboard door lock relay. The WHITE/RED wire is the C (common) contact of
the on-board door lock relay. Check the separate wire colors sheet to
determine which are wire the correct lock/unlock wires in your vehicle.
To select lock polarity output:
The remote starter has a 15-amp fuse inside its case to select lock polarity.
This fuse is factory set at positive. (This fuse connects the normally open
contact of the relay to +12V or ground).
If your door locks are positive, keep the fuse set for positive as it comes
from the factory. If your door locks are negative, open the unit and change
the position of the fuse to the two positions closest to the wires. If your
door locks are reverse polarity, keep the fuse set for positive and cut the
lock and unlock wires of the vehicle in half and follow the Green Sheet
Keyless Entry Notes.
Check this chart for connecting to the 3 most popular locking styles:
Yellow / RedConnect to car’sConnect to car’sConnect to
Yellow / GreenNOT USEDNOT USEDConnect to
White / RedConnect to car’sConnect to car’sConnect to
White / GreenNOT USEDNOT USEDConnect to
Unlock wireUnlock wirecar side, car
Unlock wire.
door side, car
Unlock wire.
Lock wirelock wirecar side, car
Lock wire.
door side, car
Lock wire.
For Single Wire Lock Systems: Connect both the lock and unlock output
wires to the single lock/unlock wire in the vehicle with the appropriate
resistor(s) in-line. Refer to the specific vehicle wiring instructions for
further guidance on the value of resistor(s) needed and the required output
polarity (+/-).
Note: most VACUUM operated door locking systems require Option 18
(Long Locks) to be set.
The GREEN/WHITE
transistor ground output when the unlock button is held for 4 seconds.
This is a 400 mA transistor ground output which MUST drive a relay (not
included).
wire is the Trunk Release output which gives out a
Installer Note:
By changing Option 22, the installer can supply a +12 volt relay output to
power an electric trunk and a negative output to trigger a negative horn. If
Option 22 is set, the BLUE wire now acts like a +12 volt positive trunk
output and the GREEN/WHITE wire referred to in Option 22 now acts as a
negative (-) horn/siren output. This GREEN/WHITE wire is a negative
transistor output, which can be used to directly drive the negative horn wire
at the steering column.
18. Brown Wire – Accessory Pulse/Dome Light – Control
Harness
The BROWN
wire is the Accessory Pulse output which gives out a momentary,
transistor ground output 10 seconds after the vehicle is remotely started.
This is important in some vehicles to control the defroster or to control the
GM R.A.P. system. This is a 400 mA transistor ground output which MUSTdrive a relay (not included).
This BROWN wire can also control a relay for Dome Light activation. When
Option #20 (section 24) is changed, this BROWN wire causes the dome light
to turn on for 25 seconds every time the doors are unlocked with the transmitter.
19A. GRAY/BLACK Wire – Door Pin/Alarm Input – Accessory
Harness
The GRAY/BLACK wire is the door pin switch input. This wire tells the unit
the status of the vehicle’s doors. It is very important that the remote start
unit knows when the doors are being opened and closed during the remote
start setting process. Most vehicles have negative trigger inputs (door pins
switch is grounded (-) when door is open, +12 volts when the door is
closed). Also check that this wire goes to (-) ground when ANY of the
vehicle’s doors are opened. If not, try finding this wire at the dome light
itself.
If you are installing this unit into a Positive door pin switch (many FORD
vehicles are this way), you will need to program option 23, (positive door
pin) in the “Setting Program Features” section.
This input is also used for the alarm features of this unit and is “last door
arming.” Anytime the vehicle is locked with the transmitter, this input
becomes active as an alarm input.
Important Note: If you want to use the keyless entry features only - with
no alarm functions - set Option 24 (no alarm) in the “Setting Program
Features” section for No Alarm mode.
19B. GRAY Wire – Alarm Input – Accessory Harness
The GRAY alarm input wire will accept any negative alarm input. The remote
starter ignores this input during the remote starting and when the remote
starter is running the vehicle, preventing false triggering.
If you are using a sensor or input that switches to (+) when triggered, you
will need to reverse the polarity with a relay before connecting to the GRAY
wire.
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