NOTE: These materials are for use by trained technicians who are experienced in the service and repair of outd oor power
equipment of the kind described in this publication, and are not intended for use by untrained or inexperienced individuals.
These materials are intended to provide supplemental information to assist the trained technician. Untrained or inexperienced individuals should seek the assistance of an experienced and trained professional. Read, understand, and follow all
instructions and use common sense when working on power equipment. This includes the contents of the product’s Operators Manual, supplied with the equipment. No liability can be accepted for any inaccuracies or omission in this publication,
although care has been taken to make it as complete and accura te as possible at the time of publication. However, du e to
the variety of outdoor power equipment and continuing product changes that occur over time, updates will be made to these
instructions from time to time. Therefore, it may be necessary to obtain the latest materials before servicing or repairing a
product. The company reserves the right to make changes at any time to this publication without prior notice and without
incurring an obligation to make such changes to previously published versions. Instructions, photographs and illustrations
used in this publication are for reference use only and may not depict actual model and component parts.
This Manual is intended to provide service dealers
with an introduction to the mechanical aspects of the Iseries tractor.
This Professional Shop Manual covers the I-series
tractor more specifically, and in greater depth than the
original Shop Handbook.
•The content in this manual supersedes any content in the handbook.
•Detailed service information about the engine
will be provided by the engine manufacturer, in
most cases.
Disclaimer: The information contained in this manual
is correct at the time of writing. Both the product and
the information about the product are subject to change
without notice.
About the text format:
NOTE: is used to point out information that is relevant to the procedure, but does not fit as a step
in the procedure.
•Bullet points: indicate sub-steps or points.
Caution is used to point out poten-
! CAUTION! CAUTION
property.
! WARNING! WA RNING
injury.
! DANGER! DANGER
This signal word is to be limited to the most extreme
situations
tial danger to the technician, operator, bystanders, or surrounding
Warning indicates a pote ntially hazardous situation that, if not avoided,
could result in death of serious
Danger indicates an imminently hazardous situation that, if not avoided,
will result in death or serious injury.
Disclaimer: This manual is intended for use by trained,
professional technicians.
•Common sense in operation and safety is
assumed.
•In no event shall MTD or Cub Cadet be liable for
poor text interpretation or poor execution of the
procedures described in the text.
•If the person using this manual is uncomfort able
with any procedures they encounter , they shou ld
seek the help of a qualified technician or Cub
Cadet Technical Support.
Fasteners
•Most of the fasteners used on the vehicle are
sized in fractional inches. Some are metric. For
this reason, wrench sizes are frequently identified in the text, and measurements are given in
U.S. and metric scales.
•If a fastener has a locking feature that has worn,
replace the fastener or apply a small amount of
releasable threadlocking compound such as
Loctite® 242 (blue).
•Some fasteners like cotter pins are single-use
items that are not to be reused. Other fasteners
such as lock washers, retaining rings, and internal cotter pins (hairpin clips) may be reused if
the do not show signs of wear or damage. This
manual leaves that decision to the judgement of
the technician.
Assembly
Torque specifications may be noted in the part of
the text that covers assembly, they may also be summarized in tables along with special instructions
regarding locking or lubrication. Whichever method is
more appropriate will be used. In many cases, both will
be used so that the manual is handy as a quick-reference guide as well as a step-by-step proced ur e guid e
that does not require the user to hunt for information.
The level of assembly instructions provided will be
determined by the complexity and of reassembly, and
by the potential for unsafe conditions to arise from mistakes made in assembly.
Some instructions may refer to other parts of the
manual for subsidiary procedures. This avoids repeating the same procedure two or three times in the manual.
1
INTRODUCTION
Description of the I-series
The I-series is a revolutionary new tractor platform
introduced in the 2007 season. This platform combines
a traditional lawn tractor with zero-turning capabilities.
This is accomplished by controlling the drive of the rear
wheels independently and the use of an innovative
steering system. See Figure 1.1.
Figure 1.1
The Steering gear box operates the control linkages for the transmissions while turning the front
wheels. This gives the I-series zero-turning capabilities
while using a traditional steering wheel.
The I-series comes with 42”, 46” and 50” deck
options. The I-series tractors also have the Cub Cadet
Rev-Tek system.
The I-series tractor can be equipped with two
HydroGear Transmissions or an IVT transmissio n. The
Infinitrak full-toroidal Infinitely Variable Transmission
(IVT) was first introduced in Europe for the 2009 model
year.
Model and Serial Numbers
The model and serial number tag can be found
under the seat. See Figure 1.2.
Serial number
Model number
Figure 1.2
The serial number is located to the right of the
model number as shown above. See Figure 1.2.
The model number is 17AF9BKH710. The break
down of what the number mean is as follows:
17.........................residential zero turn mower
...A.......................sales level
......F.....................engine code
........9...................frame
..........B................drive system
............K..............hood style
...............H...........deck (H = 46” K = 50”)
...................710....customer number
The serial number is 1J056G10005. The serial numbe r
reads as follows:
1...........................engineering level
..J.........................month of production (J = October)
.....05....................day of the month
.........6..................last digit of the year
...........G................plant it was built in
..............1.............assembly line number
.................0005.....number of unit built
2
CHAPTER 2: ENGINE RELATED PARTS
ENGINE RELATED PARTS
This chapter will cover the engine accessories that
are manufactured by Cub Cadet.
IMPORTANT: The engine is manufactured by
Kohler. Refer to the Kohler manual for engine
specific service information.
Muffler
Remove the muffler by following these steps:
1.Remove the hood and bumper by following the
steps described in Chapter 4: Body/Chassis.
2.Remove the two screws on each side that hold
the muffler guard bracket. See Figure 2.1.
Remove these screws
3.Remove the hood pivot brackets by removing
the two screws that secure each one in place.
See Figure 2.2.
Remove these
screws
Figure 2.2
4.Pull the muffler cover and muffler out together.
See Figure 2.3.
Figure 2.1
Pull muffler foreword
Figure 2.3
NOTE: The muffler slides onto the exhaust
pipes. The heat of the exhaust makes the pipe s
expand and forms a seal with the muffler. Do not
weld or place a sealer between the muffler and
exhaust pipes.
3
ENGINE RELATED PARTS
5.With the muffler on a work bench, remove the
four screws that fasten the muffler to the muffler
bracket. See Figure 2.4.
Remove these
screws
Figure 2.4
6.Remove the two screws that fasten the muffler
guard to the muffler bracket. See Figure 2.5.
Remove these screws
7.The muffler, muffler cover and the muffler
bracket can now be separated. See Figure 2.6.
Muffler brackets
Heat shield
Muffler
Figure 2.6
NOTE: The heat shield and muf fler bracket s can
be left together and handled as one part.
8.Install the muffler by following the above steps in
reverse order.
Figure 2.5
4
ENGINE RELATED PARTS
Exhaust pipes
The exhaust pipes are manufactured by Cub
Cadet. To remove/replace the exhaust pipes:
1.Remove the muffler following the steps
described in the previous section.
2.Remove the mounting bolts using a 1/2” wrench.
See Figure 2.7.
Remove these bolts
Fuel tank removal/replacement
Remove/replace the fuel tank by following these steps:
Gasoline and it vapors are
! CAUTION! CA UTION
system
1.Remove the deck.
2.Remove the fender by following the steps
described in Chapter 4: Body/Chassis.
3.Remove the hair pin clips retaining the deck lift
cables and disconnect the cables.
See Figure 2.8.
Hair pin clip
extremely flammable. Use common
sense when working around the fuel
Deck lift cable
Figure 2.7
3.DIscard the old exhaust gaskets. Clean all gasket material from the cylinder head (and exhaust
pipe if it is being reused.
4.Using new gaskets, install the exhaust pipes following the above steps in reverse order.
Figure 2.8
4.Unhook the deck lift assist spring.
See Figure 2.9.
Deck lift assist spring
Figure 2.9
5
ENGINE RELATED PARTS
5.Remove the two screws and two nuts that fasten
the seat box cover. See Figure 2.10.
Remove these screws
Remove these screws
Seat box
Figure 2.10
6.Remove the seat box cover.
7.Clamp the fuel line. See Figure 2.11.
Fuel line clamp
Fuel line
Figure 2.11
8.Remove the fuel line clamp and slide the fuel
line off.
NOTE: The fuel tank has a barbed fitting. Anytime a fuel line is removed from a barbed fitting it
should be replaced because of the damag e
caused to the fuel line liner.
9.Lift the fuel tank out of the seat box.
10.Install the fuel tank by following the above steps
in reverse order.
11.Test run the tractor and check for leaks before
returning to service.
6
CHAPTER 3: BRAKES
BRAKES
Brake system description
The I-series tractors have two braking systems
available based on which transmission is used.
HydroGear transmissions use a disc type brakes. The
IVT transmission uses an external drum brake system.
For HydroGear transmissions:
•The brakes are located on each transmission.
•They are activated by pressing on the brake
pedal.
•The brake pedal is attached to a brake cross
shaft assembly. This will pull on the two brake
rods.
•The brake rods are attached to the cam arms, in
the brake calipers, by over travel springs.
•When the cam arms are pulled forward they
push on the brake pins by a cam action applying
pressure to the brake pads.
•The brake cross shaft assembly also has a link
that is connected to the drive belt idler pulley
bracket. When the brakes are applied, the idler
pulley is pulled away from the drive belt. This detensions the belt, disengaging drive to the transmissions. See Figure 3.1.
For the IVT transmission:
The IVT transmission has two drop axles. On each
drop axle there is an external drum brake.
See Figure 3.2.
Brake
Figure 3.2
•The brakes are applied whenever the drive
pedal is released.
•Depressing the brake pedal will disengage the
drive belt and apply extra force to the rear
shoes.
Idler pulley
Brake rods
Drive pedal shaft
Figure 3.1
•The idler pulley bracket has a gas charged
dampener attached to it. This dampener will
smooth out the engagement of the drive belt
when the brake pedal is released.
Belt
de-tensioned
7
BRAKES
Brake adjustment - HydroGear transmissions
NOTE: Whenever performing a brake adjust-
ment, inspect the brake components for signs of
wear or damage.
1.Block the front wheels.
2.Lift and safely support the rear of the tractor.
See Figure 3.3.
Place jack stands here
Figure 3.3
5.Back the castle nut off a few turns using a 9/16”
wrench.
NOTE: Even if the brakes are set to the correct
clearance, inserting a feeler gauge between the
rotor and the brake puck can be very difficult.
Loosen the castle nut first, then insert the feeler
gauge and tighten the nut to set the pro per clearances
6.Insert a .030” (0.8 mm) feeler gauge between
the brake rotor and the outboard brake puck.
See Figure 3.5.
0.030” feeler
gauge
NOTE: Make sure the brake and parking brake
are released.
3.Remove the rear wheels.
4.Remove the cotter pin locking the castle nut on
the brake caliper. See Figure 3.4.
Castellated nut
Figure 3.4
Cotter pin
Figure 3.5
NOTE: The tolerance for the brake clearance is
.020” - .040” (0.5 - 1.0mm). The .030 feeler
gauge will set the clearance at the midpoint.
7.Tighten the nut until there is a slight drag on the
feeler gauge when sliding it out.
NOTE: For even braking, both sides should be
set to the same clearance.
8.Install a new cotter pin.
9.Repeat same procedure on the other side.
10.Put the wheels back on. Tighten the lug nuts to a
torque of 53 - 60 ft lbs. (72 - 81 Nm).
11.Take the tractor off of the jack stands.
12.O pen the by-pass valves and check the parking
brake before returning the tractor to service.
•With the brakes released, the tractor should
have only hydraulic drag when it is pushed.
•With the brakes engaged, the wheels should
slide before they rotate when the tractor is
pushed.
8
BRAKES
Brake adjustment - IVT transmissions
To adjust the brakes on IVT transmission:
1.Lift the rear of the tractor and safely support it
with a pair of jack stands.
2.Remove the rear wheels with a 3/4” wrench.
3.Release the parking brake.
4. Remove the cotter pin that retains the ferrule of
the drive control rod. See Figure 3.6.
brake disengagement block
Drive control rod
Ferrule
Brake puck/rotor replacement - HydroGear Trans-
missions
On HydroGear transmissions, the brake pucks are
a wearing part that will need to be serviced from time to
time. If a tractor is operated with the parking brake
dragging, the pucks will wear out rapidly and the brake
rotor will develop hot spots. If the tractor is operated
long enough, the rotor may have grinding marks on it
with excessively worn pucks.
If the rotor shows hot spots or any
! CAUTION! CA UTION
ure to do so can result in the failure of the brakes
The brake pucks and the rotors are serviced at the
same time. To service the brake pucks:
1.Jack up the tractor and remove the rear wheels
as described in the previous section.
2.Make sure the brakes are released.
3.Disconnect the brake rod spring. See Figure 3.7.
other signs of damage, including
warpage, it must be replaced. Fail-
Figure 3.6
5.Slide the ferrule of the drive control rod out of the
brake disengagement block.
NOTE: Once the control rod is disengaged, the
springs will clamp the brake shoes against the
drum. This will automatically center the disengagement block.
6.Adjust the ferrule until it slides into the hole in
the disengagement block with out applying pressure to it.
7.Install a new cotter pin into the ferrule to secure
it to the disengagement block.
8.Repeat the steps 4 - 6 on the other side of the
tractor.
9.Install the rear wheels. Tighten the lug nuts to a
torque of 53 - 60 ft lbs. (72 - 81 Nm).
10.Take the tractor off of the jack stands.
11.Test drive the tractor in a safe area before
returning it to service.
Disconnect this spring
Figure 3.7
9
BRAKES
4.Loosen the rear mounting bolt. See Figure 3.8.
Remove this
bolt
Loosen this bolt
Figure 3.8
5.Remove the front mounting bolt, allowing the
caliper to swing down. See Figure 3.9.
7.Slide the brake rotor off to reach the inboard
brake puck. See Figure 3.10.
Inboard brake
puck
Figure 3.10
8.Remove the caliper for inspection when servicing the brake pucks. To do this, remove the rear
bolt loosened in step 4.
9.With the caliper on a work bench, remove the
brake puck, backing plate and the two brake
pins. See Figure 3.11.
Figure 3.9
6.The outboard brake puck should fall out when
the brake caliper swings down. If it did not, it can
be removed now.
Brake caliper
Brake pins
Backing plate
Brake puck
Figure 3.11
10.Check for free movement of the brake pins. A
dry lubricant can be used on the brake pins sparingly.
Never put grease or anti-seize on
! CAUTION! CA UTION
action of the pucks.
brake pins. It can migrate to the
brake pucks, preventing the braking
10
BRAKES
11.Slide the brake pins into the caliper.
12.Place the backing plate in the caliper.
13.Place a new puck into the caliper.
See Figure 3.12.
Brake caliper re-assembled
Figure 3.12
NOTE: A piece of scotch tape may be used to
hold the new brake pucks in place for assembly.
The tape will grind away when the brakes are
applied.
16.Mount the brake caliper to the transmission.
Apply a small amount of releasable thread locking compound such as Loctite® 242 (blue) to the
mounting bolts and tighten to a torque of 80 120 in-lbs (9 - 13.5Nm).
17.Reconnect the brake rod spring.
18.Adjust the brakes as described in the previous
section.
19.Put the wheel on.
20.Repeat steps 4-19 on the other side.
21.When both sides are completed and both wheels
are back on, take the tractor off of the jack
stands.
22.O pen the by-pass valves and check the parking
brake before returning the tractor to service.
•With the brakes released, the tractor should
have only hydraulic drag when it is pushed.
•With the brakes engaged, the wheels should
slide before they rotate when the tractor is
pushed.
14.Place a new brake puck into the recess in the
transmission. Use a piece of scotch tape to hold
it in place.
15.Slide the brake rotor in place, shoulder out.
11
BRAKES
Brake shoes/drum - IVT transmissions
On IVT transmissions, the brake shoes and drums
are the wearing parts that will need to be serviced from
time to time. If a tractor is operated with the parking
brake dragging, the shoes will wear out rapidly and the
brake drum will develop hot spots. If the tractor is operated long enough, the drum may have grinding marks
on it with excessively worn shoes.
If the drum shows hot spots or any
! CAUTION! CA UTION
ure to do so can result in the failure of the brakes
IMPORTANT: The brake shoes and the drums
must be replaced at the same time.
To service the brakes:
1.Jack up the tractor and remove the rear wheels
as described in the previous section.
2.Make sure the brakes are released .
3.Disconnect the brake rod spring.
See Figure 3.13.
other signs of damage, including
warpage, it must be replaced. Fail-
4.Disconnect the brake shoe spring.
See Figure 3.14.
Brake shoe
spring
Figure 3.14
NOTE: There is a lot of tension in the brake
shoe springs. A piece of starter rope can be
used to remove the spring.
Do not remove the screws to dis-
! CAUTION! CA UTION
and can cause the screw to become a projectile as it is
being removed.
connect the brake shoe springs.
The springs are under high tension
Brake rod
Figure 3.13
5.Remove the pivot bolt at the bottom of the brake
shoes.
NOTE: There is a spacer behind the shoes that
will fall out as the pivot bolt is removed.
See Figure 3.15.
Spacer
Pivot bolt
Figure 3.15
12
BRAKES
6.Remove the snap ring that secures the drum
with a pair of snap ring pliers. See Figure 3.16.
Remove the snap ring
Figure 3.16
7.Install the drum and shoes by following step s 1 7 in reverse order.
8.Repeat steps 1-8 on the other side of the tractor.
Brake cross shaft assembly
The brake cross shaft assembly for the HydroGear
transmissions and the IVT transmissions are not the
same. The procedure to service them are the same.
The brake cross shaft assembly is supported by
two bushings. Excessive movement in the brak e cro ss
shaft assembly may be an indication that the bushings
are worn out.
To replace the brake cross shaft bushings:
1.Remove the cotter pins that retain the three
brake rods. Slide the brake rods out of the brake
cross shaft assembly. See Figure 3.17.
Brake rods
Never put grease or anti-seize on
! CAUTION! CA UTION
braking surfaces, preventing the braking action of the
shoes.
9.Test drive the tractor in a safe area before
returning it to service.
the brake shoe pivot screw or the
drum splines. It can migrate to the
Figure 3.17
2.Remove the cotter pins on each end of the brake
cross shaft. See Figure 3.18.
Remove cotter pins
13
Figure 3.18
BRAKES
3.Remove the right side bushing first. This will
allow the shaft to slide far enough to the lef t to let
the other bushing to come out.
4.Install new bushings by following the above
steps in reverse order.
NOTE: Do not put grease on the bushings.
Grease can trap dirt that will accelerate the wear
of the bushing.
5.Check the operation of linkage and test drive the
tractor in a safe area before returning to service.
To remove/replace the brake cross shaft assembly:
1.Remove the brake pedal by removing the two
screws using a 1/2” wrench.
2.Remove the cotter pins that retain the three
brake rods. Slide the brake rods out of the brake
cross shaft assembly. See Figure 3.19.
Brake rods
Figure 3.19
3.Remove the four screws (two on each side) that
hold the sub-frame in place and slide it down.
See Figure 3.20.
Remove these screws
Figure 3.20
14
BRAKES
4.Loosen the shoulder bolt that the parking brake
plate pivots on. See Figure 3.21.
Parking brake
plate
Shoulder bolt
Figure 3.21
5.Remove the cotter pin from each end of the
brake cross shaft. See Figure 3.22.
6.Slide the split bushings out of their pockets in the
sub-frame, then pull them off of the brake cross
shaft assembly. See Figure 3.23.
Figure 3.23
7.Work the brake cross shaft ou t of the sub frame .
NOTE: Take care not to bend the parking brake
plate while working the brake cross shaft out.
Make sure the shoulder bolt is loose enough to
give the shaft clearance. The plate can be
removed if necessary. See Figure 3.24.
Remove cotter pins
Slide pin out of plate
Figure 3.22
Figure 3.24
8.Replace the brake cross shaft by following the
above steps in reverse order.
9.Test drive the tractor in a safe area before
returning to service.
15
BRAKES
16
CHAPTER 4: BODY/CHASSIS
BODY/CHASSIS
The hood
The I-series hood uses the same hood pivot sys-
tem as the 1000 series for easy removal.
To remove the hood:
1.The hood is front-hinged. See Figure 4.1.
Lift here
Figure 4.1
2.Open the hood by lifting the rear edge to tilt it forward.
3.Disconnect the headlight wires. See Figure 4.2.
4.Cut the wire tie that secures the headlight harness to the hood. See Figure 4.3.
Headlight harness
Wire tie
Figure 4.3
5.The hood hinges on a pair of shoulder bolts on
each side that fit into slots in the hood bracket.
6.The hinge travel is limited by the top shoulder
bolt that fits into a channel in the hood bracket.
7.Open the hood far enough to align the tabs with
the slots, then lift the hood off of the tractor.
See Figure 4.5.
Inset: headlight detail
Figure 4.2
NOTE: The ground terminals and powe r te rm i-
nals on the headlights are two different sizes.
The green wires (ground) fit the larger terminals.
The red wires (power) fit the smaller terminals.
17
Slots
Bracket
Shoulder bolts
Figure 4.4
BODY/CHASSIS
Bumper
I-series tractors come equipped with a fast attach
bumper. To remove the bumper:
1.Remove the two screws, one on each side, that
secures the bumper bracket. See Figure 4.5.
Remove screw
Bumper
Figure 4.5
Dash Removal
The dash for the I-series is easy to remove. There
are a few repair procedures, such as the cam angle
adjustment or replacing the steering gearbox, that
require the dash to be removed. The step s to remove it
are as follows:
1.Remove the steering wheel:
1a. Remove the center cover. See Figure 4.7.
Center cover
2.Pull the bumper straight forward, sliding th e
bumper off of the shoulder bolts. See Figure 4.6.
Shoulder bolt
Figure 4.6
3.Install the bumper following the above steps in
reverse order.
Figure 4.7
1b. Remove the bolt with a 1/2” wrench.
See Figure 4.8.
Remove
this
bolt
Figure 4.8
NOTE: There is no puller needed for the steer-
ing wheel. Once the bolt is removed it will lift off
of the steering shaft.
18
NOTE: When replacing the steering wheel, lock
the steering gear box in neutral as described in
steering chapters (6A or 6B). This will make it
easier to center the steering wheel.
BODY/CHASSIS
2.Remove the dash:
2a. Disconnect the key switch, module, PTO
switch and the hour meter.
See Figure 4.9.
Hour meter
PTO switch
Figure 4.9
2b. Disconnect the parking brake by removing
the hair pin clip and sliding the rod out of the
lever. See Figure 4.10.
2c. Remove the two screws attaching the dash
to the dash support. See Figure 4.11.
One on each side
Module and
key switch
Figure 4.11
2d. Remove the two screws in the cargo net
area, at the bottom of the dash.
See Figure 4.12.
Hair pin
clip
Rod
Figure 4.10
Remove these screws
Figure 4.12
NOTE: The cargo net was removed for a clearer
picture. Do not remove the net to remove the
dash.
NOTE: If removing the dash, disconnect the
throttle and choke cables at this point.
19
BODY/CHASSIS
e
2e. Remove the screws at the bottom of the
dash, on each side. See Figure 4.13.
Screw removed
Figure 4.13
2f. The dash can now by lifted ov er the steering
shaft and placed to the side or on top of the
engine.
NOTE: If the throttle and choke cable are still
attached to the dash, care should be taken to
prevent damage to them when lifting the dash.
3.Install the dash by following the above steps in
reverse order.
Remove the fender
1.Remove the dash by following the steps
described in the previous section of this chapter.
2.Disconnect the wires to the seat switch.
NOTE: Tractors built prior to 2008 have two yel-
low wires that go to a switch on the side of the
seat bracket. See Figure 4.14.
Seat switch wires
Remove the nut
and bolt to remov
seat
Figure 4.14
NOTE: Tractor built from 2008 to present have
two yellow wires and a green wire that go to a
switch inside the seat.
Seat switch
Seat bracket
mounting screws
Figure 4.15
NOTE: When reconnecting the wires, the posi-
tion of the two yellow wires does not affect the
20
operation of the tractor.
3.Remove the seat bracket and seat as one piece.
4.Remove the grip from the deck lift handle.
BODY/CHASSIS
5.Remove the nuts from the under side of the foot
rests. See Figure 4.16.
Remove these nuts
Figure 4.16
6.Remove the brake and drive pedals.
7.Remove the screw from the center of the fender.
See Figure 4.17.
10.Place the steering wheel on the steering shaft.
Turn the wheels to the left and right to allow the
fenders to clear the steering arm assembly.
See Figure 4.18.
Steering arm assembly
Place some tape
here to protect the paint
Figure 4.18
NOTE: When lifting the fender off of the tractor,
clear the left side first and rotate the fender to
clear the deck lift lever.
Remove this screw
Figure 4.17
8.Remove the fuel cap.
9.Standing behind the tractor , lif t the fender up till it
clears the studs for the seat.
1 1.Install the fender by following the previous steps
in reverse.
21
BODY/CHASSIS
22
DRIVE SYSTEM-HYDROGEAR
CHAPTER 5A: DRIVE SYSTEM - HYDROGEAR TRANSMISSIONS
There are two drive systems available for the Iseries tractor. One system uses two HydroGear transmissions. The other system uses an Infinitrak full-toroidal Infinitely Variable Transmission (IVT). Th is chap ter
will cover the HydroGear version of the tractor.
The HydroGear version of this tractor uses two
EZT transmissions. The transmission control linkages
work in unison with the steering linkage to create the
zero-turn feature. The neutral adjustments for the
transmissions and the transmission links are covered
in chapter 6A: Steering - HydroGear.
The Hydro-gear shop manual for the EZT transmissions is form number BLN-52622.
Drive belt
The drive belt is the most common drive system
component that will need attention. To remove/replace
the drive belt:
1.Remove the deck as described in chapter 8:
Cutting Decks and Lift Shaft.
2.Set the parking brake.
3.Unplug the electric PTO harness.
See Figure 5A.1.
4.Unbolt the electric PTO using an impact wrench
and a 5/8” socket. See Figure 5A.2.
PTO clutch
Remove bolt with an impact wrench
Figure 5A.2
NOTE: If the PTO clutch will not slide off of the
crankshaft, thread the bolt half way into the
crankshaft. Make sure the belt keeper is in place
to prevent the clutch from rotating. Start the
engine and turn the PTO on and off several
times to shake it loose.
Starter
PTO connector
Figure 5A.1
NOTE: If the PTO will not come off using the
steps above, remove the engine mounting bolts
and slide the engine back. This will give enough
clearance to slide the belt off of the engine pulley.
Cub Cadet belts are designed to fit
! CAUTION! CA UTION
prevent the de-clutching mechanism from working
properly when the brakes are applied.
our equipment and are not standard
lengths. Use of a non-OEM belt may
23
DRIVE SYSTEM-HYDROGEAR
5.Slide the engine pulley down far enough to slip
the belt off of the pulley. See Figure 5A.3.
Engine pulley
Figure 5A.3
NOTE: Note the direction of the key in the
engine pulley. It should be facing down. If the
pulley is installed upside down, the belt alignment will be off.
NOTE: When installing the engine pulley and
electric PTO, coat the crank sh aft with anti-seize.
This will ease pulley and clutch removal in the
future.
NOTE: If the engine pulley is seized to the
crankshaft, the engine bolts can be removed to
slide the engine to the rear. This will provide
enough clearance to remove the belt.
7.Work belt off of the idler pulleys.
NOTE: It may be necessary to loosen the move-
able idler pulley to get the belt to clear the belt
guide on the idler bracket. See Figure 5A.4.
8.The transmission brace doubles as a belt
keeper. Remove the two screws that hold the
transmission brace to the transmission. Slide the
brace to the rear of the tractor to make enough
clearance to remove the belt. See Figure 5A.5.
Remove this
screw on each side
Figure 5A.5
9.Work belt around the transmission pulleys and
fans.
NOTE: Use care to prevent damage to the fans
when removing the belt.
6.Remove the three belt guides near the idler pulleys. See Figure 5A.4.
Belt guides
Moveable idler
Figure 5A.4
24
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