Special Tools..............................................................................................1-4...................................... 1-2
Big Country Starter Circuit.......................................................................... 7-2.....................................7-4
Big Country Run Circuit...............................................................................7-3.....................................7-5
Big Country Accessory Circuit.....................................................................7-4.....................................7-6
Big Country Complete Schematic................................................................7-5.....................................7-7
5
6
7
Table of Contents
Blank Page
Section 1: Introduction
Section 1: Introduction
1
1.Safety
1.1.Before servicing the Big Country, technicians
should be familiar with the vehicle and the Operator’s Manual that applies to it. There are important instructions that pertain to safe and correct
operation and service of the Big Country contained in the Operator’s Manual
1.2.The procedures in the Service Manual
ten with the safety of the technician and operator
as a primary consideration. Failure to follow
these procedures may create a dangerous condition.
1.3.There is no substitute for common sense.
2.Model and Serial Numbers
2.1.The engine and transmission are components
that Cub Cadet has purchased from outside
sources and incorporated into the Big Country
utility vehicle. The Chassis, engine, and transmission each have separate model and serial
numbers.
2.2.To make parts identification easier, and to
accommodate warranty administration, the
chassis numbers should be recorded in the
Operator’s Manual as well as the sales receipt.
2.3.Chassis Identification: The model and serial
number of the Big Country are located on a tag
on the bottom of the plate that driver’s seat is
mounted to. Tilt the seat forward to view the tag.
See Figure 2.3.
.
are writ-
2.4.If the tag comes off, or if the seat plate is
removed, the servicing dealer can get a new tag
issued by calling Cub Cadet.
2.5.The servicing dealer must be able to identify a
Big Country by model and serial number in order
to perform warranty service on that unit.
2.6.Engine Identification: The engine serial number
is located behind the starter motor.
See Figure 2.6.
Starter Motor Locating Dowels
(starter removed for clarity)
Serial Number
Figure 2.6
2.7.The engine serial number is easily visible from
under the Big Country without removing any
parts. See Figure 2.7.
Figure 2.3
Engine Numbers
Oil Drain Valve
Figure 2.7
1 - 1
Section 1: Introduction
2.8.The engine family and specification numbers are
located on a tag on the rear cylinder shroud of
the engine.
2.9.The transmission identification number is
located on a flat surface adjacent to the dipstick.
See Figure 2.9.
Transmission Number
Figure 2.9
4. Special Tools
NOTE: We are not in the tool business. Where
special tools will make a specific job easier for
the technician, we offer them.
4.1.Shock and Spring Unit Removal and Installa-tion Tool: Part Number 703-05103 is designed
to hook into the upper spring and shock
absorber mount on the drive axles.
See Figure 4.1.
Shock and Spring Unit Tool
Part Number 703-05103
3.Fasteners
3.1.A combination of metric and SAE fasteners are
used to assemble the Big Country. If a metric
tool size is specified in this manual, the fastener
will be metric. If fractional inch tool size is specified in this manual, the fastener will be SAE.
3.2.When servicing a Big Country it is important to
replace locking hardware when it is worn. Lock washers should be replaced if they show any
sign of flattening. Nylon insert lock nuts and center-lock nuts should be replaced when they
get easy to turn. The bolts used in conjunction
with center-lock nuts are also subject to wear.
They should be replaced if the thread profile is
noticeably worn. Any hardware that shows signs
of wear, stripping, or stretch should be replaced
in the course of normal service. If locking hardware is not readily available, thread locking compound such as Loctite 242 (blue) should be
used.
3.3.All torque specifications will be given in inchpounds or foot-pounds, whichever scale is
appropriate for a particular fastener. This
includes metric fasteners.
Figure 4.1
4.2.Use the dowel to hold the spacers in position on
each side of the top mounting point of the spring
and shock absorber unit during the removal and
installation process. See Figure 4.2.
703-05103
Dowel Pin
Spacers
Mounting
Bolt
Figure 4.2
1 - 2
NOTE: A 3/8” by 1 3/8” steel dowel pin can be
made or purchased locally.
Section 1: Introduction
4.3.Universal Joint Spacer Tool: See Figure 4.3.
Universal Joint Spacer Tool
Part Number 703-05104
Figure 4.3
4.4.Part Number 703-05104 is used to set the correct clearance between the end of the axle
assembly and the end of the universal joint on
the drive axles. See Figure 4.4.
4.5.Two 1/4” by 4 1/2” long dowel pins are used to
lock the roller-type chain Tensioner in the
released position. The can be made or purchased locally. See Figure 4.5.
Dowel pins used to lock chain tensioners
in the released position
Side of Frame
Between Drive Axles
Figure 4.5
1
Figure 4.4
Universal Joint
Spacer Tool
In Position
5.Consumable Parts:
ComponentPart Number
Oil Filter 15400-POH-
305PE
Air Filter751-3027
Drive Belt754-0646
Battery (Shipped Dry)925-1707E
1 - 3
Section 1: Introduction
5.9 qt.
6.Lubrication Specifications.
ApplicationTypeAmountPart Number
Engine Oil
general use
Engine Oil
sub-freezing
Gear Lube Drive System Fluid
10W-30 API: SJ1.16 qt.
1.48 qt. with / filter
5W-30 API: SJ1.16 qt.
1.48 qt. with / filter
189 oz. 737-3120
737-3030A
Obtain Locally
Plus
Chain LubeAerosol As Needed737-3038
Chain Lube
Dusty Conditions
Dry Aerosol: PTFE or
Graphite Base
As Needed Obtain Locally
Penetrating LubeSprayAs Needed737-3037
Chassis LubeE.P. Chassis LubeAs Needed737-3034
Chassis LubeAlvania E.P. lead
As Needed737-0168A
free ROO Grease
Chassis Lube Benalene 920As Needed737-0300
Anti-Sieze CompoundAs NeededObtain Locally
1 - 4
Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages
Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages
1.Shift Linkage
NOTE: The shift linkage and brake linkage of the
Big Country are tied together by a shift interlock
mechanism that prevents the operator from
shifting gears while the vehicle is in motion. The
brake pedal must be depressed before the gearshift lever will move. The effect is the same
whether the brake is held down by the operator’s
foot or by the parking brake.
NOTE: A clutch pulley brake operates in unison
with the vehicle brakes inside the transmission.
The purpose of the clutch pulley brake is to
insure that the input shaft of the transmission is
not rotating when the operator shifts gears. This
prevents gear “crunch” on engagement, and
improves transmission life.
NOTE: The shift lever is the longer of the two
levers located between the seats. The shorter
lever is the differential lock. See Figure 1.0.
Reverse
Shift Lever
2.Shift Linkage Removal and Replacement
NOTE: If an operator has tried to shift gears
without using the brake or if the interlock
mechanism is out of adjustment, shift linkage
damage may occur.
2.1.Turn the engine off, remove the key, put the
transmission in neutral, and set the parking
brake.
2.2.Lift and secure the bed.
2.3.Fold both seats forward.
2.4.To reach the shift lever and the front of the shift
rod, remove the bolt that fastens the cup holder
between the seats using a 3/8” wrench.
See Figure 2.4.
Cup Holder (Bolt Removed)
Parcel Bin
2
Neutral
Differential Lock
Forward
Figure 1.0
NOTE: The shift lever has three positions to
select from. “Forward” is selected by pushing the
shift lever forward and down. “Reverse” is
selected by pulling the gearshift up and back.
“Neutral” is centered between “Forward” and
“Reverse”.
Figure 2.4
2.5.Remove the cup holder.
2.6.Remove the two bolts that fasten the parcel bin
into the recess beneath the passenger seat
using a 1/2” wrench.
2.7.Lift out the parcel bin and set it aside.
2- 1
Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages
2.8.Inspect the shift interlock mechanism. If the
interlock mechanism does not work properly,
refer to the “Shift Interlock and Clutch Pulley
Brake Adjustment” section of this manual.
See Figure 2.8.
Interlock
Arm
I
Figure 2.8
2.10. ToRemove the shift rod, remove the hairpin
clip and clevis pin that connect it to the transmission shift arm. See Figure 2.10.
Transmission Lever
Shift Rod
Clevis Pin
Hairpin Clip
Figure 2.10
2.11. Toremove the shift lever, remove the red knob
from the end of the shift lever.
2.9.Remove the hairpin clip and flat washer that
secure the shift rod to the shift lever and disconnect the shift rod by pulling it out of the hole in
the lever. See Figure 2.9.
Shift Lever
Hairpin Clip
Shift Rod
Figure 2.9
NOTE: The knob and lever are threaded.
2.12. Remove the bolt that holds the pivot pin to the
frame. See Figure 2.12.
End of
Pivot Pin
Shift Lever
Shift Rod
Figure 2.12
2 - 2
Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages
2.13. Withdraw the pivot pin. See Figure 2.13.
Pivot Pin
Figure 2.13
2.14. Remove the shift lever.
2.15. Reverse the removal procedures to install
the shift linkage components.
NOTE: Apply white lithium grease to all pivot
points on assembly.
NOTE: Check shift linkage adjustment before
returning the unit to service.
3.Shift Linkage Adjustment
3.1.Perform steps 1 through 7 of the “Shift Linkage
Removal” section of this manual.
3.2.Use a 9/16” wrench to loosen the jam nut that
locks the clevis on the end shift rod.
See Figure 3.2.
3.3.Remove the hairpin clip and clevis pin that connect the clevis to the transmission shift arm.
3.4.Rotate the clevis to thread it up or down the
length of the shift link. See Figure 3.4.
Transmission Lever
Clevis
Figure 3.4
3.5.Check the position of the hole in the transmission lever in relation to the hole in the clevis with
the transmission and shift lever in forward gear
and reverse gear.
NOTE: Forward and Reverse are at the two
extreme ends of the shift lever’s travel. If they
are both correct, neutral will be correct as well.
3.6.Connect the clevis to the transmission lever by
installing the clevis pin and hairpin clip.
3.7.Tighten the jam nut using a 9/16” wrench, locking the adjustment.
Jam Nut
Shift Rod
2
Clevis Pin
Clevis
Figure 3.2
Jam Nut
Shift rod
3.8.Test the function of the shift lever with the brake
pedal depressed.
NOTE: The lever should click firmly into each of
the three positions without hitting the end of its
travel.
NOTE: The travel of the shift lever should be
centered in the slot.
NOTE: If an extreme amount of adjustment is
necessary to center the gearshift lever, the linkage may be damaged.
2- 3
Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages
NOTE: When the brake is released and a gear is
engaged, the pin that connects the clevis to the
transmission shift lever should be centered in a
slot in the interlock arm. If it is not, refer to the
“Shift Interlock and Clutch Brake Adjustment”
section of this manual.
NOTE: When the parking brake is set, the shift
lever should move between gears without catching or dragging against the interlock arm. If it
does not, refer to the “Shift Interlock Adjustment
and Clutch Brake Adjustment” section of this
manual.
4.Checking Operation of the Differential Lock
Mechanism
4.1.Lift and safely support the drive wheels of the
Big Country according to the procedures listed in
the “Lifting the Big Country and Removing the
Drive Wheels” section of this manual.
NOTE: Operation of the differential lock mechanism may be tested by manually rotating the
drive wheels.
4.2.With the differential lock released both drive
wheels on eather side of the vehicle should spin
when either the front or rear drive wheel is
rotated by hand. The drive wheels on the other
side of the Big Country should remain stationary.
4.3.With the differential lock lever pulled-up roughly
half the length of the slot that it travels in, all four
wheels should rotate if any one wheel is turned
by hand.
4.4.The differential lock should engage within 90
degrees of front drive wheel rotation.
NOTE: Internal transmission damage, or collision damage may result if the differential lock
lever is not operated in accordance with the
instructions in the “Big Country Operator’s Manual”.
NOTE: It is normal for the steering abilities of
any six-wheeled vehicle to be greatly diminished
while the differential is locked.
NOTES
5.Differential Lock Linkage Removal and
Replacement
5.1.To reach the differential lock cable, Perform
steps 1 through 7 of the “Shift Linkage Removal”
section of this manual.
5.2.To remove the cable, loosen the jam nuts that
hold the differential lock cable to the differential
lock bracket. See Figure 5.2.
Differential Lock Bracket
4.5.Once engaged, it will remain engaged even if
the lever is released, as long as there is a difference in the drive load between the left and right
sides of the vehicle.
NOTE: In service, differences in drive load
would result from greater traction on one side
than the other, attempting to turn the vehicle
while the differential lock is engaged, a dragging
brake on one side or the other, or grossly different air pressures in the tires from one side to the
other.
4.6.When the drive load is equalized from left to
right, the differential lock will automatically disengage if the lever has been released.
Jam Nuts
Differential Lock cable
Figure 5.2
NOTE: The differential lock bracket is located at
the right rear corner of the transmission, beneath
the air filter.
5.3.Pull the cable housing out of the bracket.
2 - 4
Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages
5.4.Pivot the cable in the differential lock arm so that
the cable aligns with the slot in the arm. This will
allow the barrel at the end of the cable to be
remove from the arm. See Figure 5.4.
Slot
Differential Lock Arm
Figure 5.4
5.5.Trace the cable forward to the bracket on the
frame. See Figure 5.5.
5.8.Unhook the spring at the end of the cable from
the differential lock lever. See Figure 5.8.
Differential Lock Lever
2
Differential Lock Cable
Figure 5.8
5.9.To remove the differential lock lever, first
remove the cable.
5.10. Release the return spring that runs between the
differential lock lever and the frame.
See Figure 5.10.
Jam Nuts
Front Bracket
Differential Lock Cable
Figure 5.5
5.6.Loosen the jam nuts that hold the cable in the
bracket.
5.7.Slip the cable out of the bracket.
Return Spring
Differential Lock Lever
Figure 5.10
NOTE: This spring is most easily reached from
beneath the driver’s seat.
5.11. Remove the black knob from the end of the differential lock lever. It is threaded onto the lever.
5.12. Remove the bolt that holds the pivot pin into the
frame using a ½” wrench.
2- 5
Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages
5.13. Withdraw the pivot pin far enough to clear the
differential lock lever, and remove the lever. See
Figure 5.13.
Partially Removed
Pivot Pin
Bolt Hole
Figure 5.13
5.14. Reverse the removal procedure to install the
differential lock lever.
5.15. Use the following procedure to install the differential lock cable.
5.16. Thread the first jam nut on the front (spring) end
of the cable housing all the way to the shoulder
of the threaded end.
5.19. Tighten the second jam nut against the bracket
to secure the cable.
5.20. Insert the barrel on the end of the cable through
the hole in the differential lock arm by aligning
the cable with the slot in the arm.
5.21. Thread the first jam nut on the back (barrel) end
of the cable housing all the way to the shoulder
of the threads.
5.22. Position the cable housing in the bracket
mounted to the transmission.
5.23. Thread the second jam nut up against the
bracket to secure the cable.
5.24. Check cable adjustment after replacement.
NOTES
6.Differential Lock Cable Adjustment
6.1.To reach the differential lock cable, Perform
steps 1 through 7 of the “Shift Linkage Removal”
section of this manual.
6.2.Operate the differential lock lever and observe
the motion of the cable and differential lock arm
on the transmission. See Figure 6.2.
5.17. Hook the spring onto the differential lock lever.
5.18. Position the cable housing in the bracket
attached to the frame. See Figure 5.18.
Figure 5.18
Engage
Differential Lock Lever
Figure 6.2
NOTE: To achieve full engagement, it may be
necessary to rotate the transmission clutch pulley until the differential lock pins align with their
holes within the differential. At this point, additional movement of the differential lock lever will
be noticeable.
2 - 6
Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages
6.3.When the differential lock lever is released, there
should be slight slack in the cable.
6.4.When fully engaged, the differential lock arm
should move up at least 3/4” as measured along
the cable. See Figure 6.4.
NOTE: The differential lock bracket is located at
the right rear corner of the transmission, beneath
the air filter.
Differential Lock Bracket
Differential Lock Arm
3/4” to engagement
7.Brake System Description
7.1.There are two multi-disc wet brakes inside the
transmission. One brake assembly works on the
left out-put shaft, the other works on the right
out-put shaft.
7.2.The brakes are actuated by two heavy cables
that connect to the brake pedal.
7.3.A third cable connects to the brake pedal. The
third cable is used to operate the clutch pulley
brake and the shift interlock mechanism.
7.4.If the brakes are out of adjustment, the travel of
the cable that operates the clutch pulley brake
and shift interlock will be effected as well.
NOTES
8.Brake Cable Removal and Replacement
2
Figure 6.4
6.5.Loosen the jam nuts that hold the differential
lock cable to the differential lock bracket.
6.6.Trace the cable to the bracket that is mounted to
the frame.
NOTE: At both brackets, the inner jam nut
should be all the way up against the shoulder of
the threaded cable end.
NOTE: The differential lock lever is able to apply
more movement to the cable than is necessary
to engage the differential lock. Looseness of the
cable will seldom be an issue.
6.7.If there is an issue with differential lock engagement or disengagement, inspect the cable, lever,
and differential lock arm on the transmission for
freedom of movement and correct mounting.
6.8.Lubricate or repair them as necessary. See “Differential Lock Linkage Removal and Replacement” section of this manual for linkage service
instructions.
NOTE: If adjustment and repair of the linkage
does not make the differential lock function properly, an internal transmission problem exists.
6.9.Install the cup holder and parcel bin by reversing
the removal procedure.
8.1.Remove cup holder and parcel bin according to
steps one through seven of the “Shift Linkage
Removal” section of this manual.
8.2.Remove the two bolts that hold the hood closed.
8.3.Open the hood.
8.4.Release the brake return spring by unhooking
the rear of the spring from the frame.
See Figure 8.4.
Brake cable
Cam Arm
Brake Return Spring
Frame
Figure 8.4
2- 7
Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages
8.5.Remove the jam nut from the end of the brake
cable core using a deep ½” socket on an extension. See Figure 8.5.
(Grip here if necessary.)
Cable Core
Cable Housing
Large Jam Nuts
NOTE: Use a pair of slip joint pliers to hold the
cable, if necessary.
8.6.Loosen the large jam nuts that secure the cable
housing to the bracket on the frame using a pair
of 7/8” wrenches.
NOTE: The large jam nut to the rear of the
bracket is easily accessible from below.
Jam Nut
(Recessed in Cam Arm)
Figure 8.5
8.9.Slip the cable core through the slot in the
bracket.
8.10. Working from the front of the Big Country,
remove the hairpin clip and clevis pin that connect the brake cable clevises to the brake pedal.
See Figure 8.10.
Brake Pedal
Hairpin Clip
Clevis Pin
Clevis
(Right Brake Cable)
Clevis
(Interlock and
Clutch Brake Cable)
Figure 8.10
8.11. Slip the rubber boot off the end of the cable
housing, and remove the large jam nut that is
above the bracket using two 7/8” wrenches.
See Figure 8.11.
Clevis
(Left Brake Cable)
8.7.Slip the rubber boot off the end of the cable
housing and remove the large jam nut nearest
the end of the cable housing.
8.8.Pull the cable forward far enough for the cable
housing to clear the bracket. See Figure 8.8.
Bracket
Rubber Boot
Figure 8.8
Bracket
Figure 8.11
8.12. Pull the cable down far enough for the cable
housing to clear the bracket. The cable core will
fit through the slot in the bracket.
8.13. To install a new brake cable, position the jam
nut on the replacement cable ¼” from the end of
the threads.
2 - 8
Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages
8.14. Slip the threaded end of the replacement cable
into the yoke of the cable to be replaced. The nut
should fit into the throat of the yoke, locking the
two cables together. See Figure 8.14.
Clevis End of Old Cable
Threaded End of New Cable
Figure 8.14
8.15. Wrap the joint in duct tape.
8.16. Pull the old cable out through the engine compartment, fishing the replacement cable through
the channel beneath the floor in the process.
See Figure 8.16.
8.18. Slip the boot off the end of the cable housing
and remove the large jam nut. See Figure 8.18.
2
Figure 8.18
8.19. Position the remaining jam nut on the new cable
housing about 1” from the end of the housing.
8.20. Install the jam nut on the cable about ¼” from
the shoulder of the threaded end.
8.21. Slip the cable core through the slot in the
bracket, and draw the end of the cable housing
into the bracket.
New Cable
Old cable
Figure 8.16
8.17. Unwrap the joint between the two cables, and
remove the old cable.
8.22. Start the large jam nut onto the threads on the
cable housing, and thread it up to the bracket.
8.23. Tighten both jam nuts using a pair of 7/8”
wrenches.
8.24. Insert the cable end through the pivot pin on the
brake cam lever. See Figure 8.18.
Pivot Pin
Figure 8.24
2- 9
Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages
8.25. Working at the front of the Big Country, thread
the first jam nut all the way up the cable housing
end until it stops against the shoulder.
See Figure 8.25.
First Jam Nut
(Thread to Shoulder)
Rubber Boot
Figure 8.25
8.26. Slip the cable core through the slot in the
bracket, and draw the end of the cable housing
into the bracket.
8.27. Slip the rubber boot back onto the end of the
cable housing.
8.30. Apply a small amount of white E.P. chassis lube
grease to the clevis pin, and install it through the
brake pedal, the clevises of all three cables.
8.31. Secure the clevis pin with a hairpin clip.
8.32. Follow steps number five through number eight
of the “Brake Cable Adjustment” procedure, to
set the two jam nuts on the cable end.
NOTES
9.Brake Cable Adjustment
9.1.Safely lift and support the Big Country. Refer the
the “Lifting the Big Country and Removing the
Drive Wheels” section of this manual.
NOTE: It is not necessary to loosen the lug bolts
or remove the wheels.
9.2.Lift and secure the bed.
9.3.Release the brake return spring by unhooking
the rear of the spring from the frame.
See Figure 9.3.
8.28. Start the second large jam nut onto the threads
on the cable housing, and tighten against the
bracket.
8.29. Tighten both large jam nuts against the bracket
using a pair of 7/8” wrenches. See Figure 8.29.
Jam Nuts
Tightened
Figure 8.29
Brake Cable
Cam Arm
Figure 9.3
9.4.Loosen the jam nut at the cam arm end of the
brake cable core using a deep ½” socket on an
extension.
NOTE: Use a pair of slip joint pliers to hold the
cable, if necessary.
9.5.Thread the jam nut that is immediately forward
of the cam arm all the way forward, to the shoulder of the threaded cable core end.
Brake Return Spring
2 - 10
Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages
9.6.Pull the threaded end of the cable core as far out
(back) as possible, while pushing the brake cam
arm forward until resistance is felt.
See Figure 9.6.
Pull Cam Arm
Pull Cable
Figure 9.6
NOTE: The resistance indicates the point where
the brakes are applied.
9.7.Adjust the jam nut nearest the shoulder of the
cable end one turn beyond the point where it
contacts the pivot pin with the cable taught and
the brake cam arm in the applied position.
9.12. Check the parking brake latch for correct operation. See Figure 9.12.
Parking Brake Switch
Parking Brake Latch
(Engaged)
Upper Notch
Lower Notch
Figure 9.12
NOTE: The latch mechanism is visible beneath
the dashboard.
NOTE: There are two notches in the parking
brake latch. The tab on the pedal should engage
the upper notch.
9.13. Check the parking brake switch for correct actuation. See Figure 9.13.
Brake Pedal
2
NOTE: If there is insufficient thread length to do
this, use the large jam nuts on the end of the
cable housing to make a coarse adjustment,
bringing the cable into range to make a fine
adjustment at the cable end.
9.8.Tighten the second jam nut up against the back
side of the pivot pin.
9.9.Hook the rear end of the brake return spring
back onto the frame.
9.10. Repeat the adjustment procedure on the second
brake cable.
9.11. Make a preliminary check of the brakes:
•Rotate the drive wheels by hand with the brakes
released. There should be no brake drag.
•Set the parking brake and attempt to rotate the
drive wheels again. They should not move.
Parking Brake Rod
Tab on Parking
Brake Latch
Adjustment Slot
in Switch Bracket
Figure 9.13
9.14. With the parking brake set, loosen the screws
that hold the parking brake switch to its bracket
using a phillips head screwdriver and an 11/32”
wrench.
2- 11
Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages
9.15. Slide the switch forward until the plunger on the
switch makes an audible “click”, indicating the
closure of the contacts within the switch.
NOTE: The plunger need not be fully depressed.
9.16. Secure the switch in this position by tightening
the screws that hold it to the bracket.
9.17. Perform the “Clutch Pulley Brake and Shift Interlock Adjustment” section of this manual.
10.Clutch Pulley Brake and Shift Interlock Cable
Removal and Replacement
NOTE: The ferrule is threaded onto the end of
the cable housing.
10.3. Push the ferrule down to release it from the lockout arm.
10.4. Disconnect the spring at the end of the cable
from the clutch pulley brake arm.
See Figure 10.4.
10.1. Remove the belt guard. Refer to the “Belt
Removal and Replacement” section of this manual. See Figure 10.1.
Clutch Pulley Brake Arm
Driven Clutch Pulley
Figure 10.1
10.2. Remove the hairpin clip and flat washer that hold
the ferrule to the interlock arm. See Figure 10.2.
Spring
(end of Cable)
Figure 10.4
10.5. Remove the two bolts that hold the hood closed
using a 1/2” wrench, and open the hood.
10.6. Remove the hairpin clip and clevis pin that hold
the brake cable yokes to the brake pedal.
See Figure 10.6.
Clevis Pin
Brake Pedal
Ferrule
Figure 10.2
Interlock Arm
Cable
(operates clutch
pulley brake and shift
interlock arm)
Hairpin
Clip
Shift Interlock
and Clutch Pulley
Brake Cable
Brake Cables
Figure 10.6
2 - 12
Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages
10.7. Loosen the jam nuts that hold the clutch pulley
brake and shift interlock cable to the bracket
using a pair of 1/2” wrenches.
NOTE: A crowfoot socket may be helpful.
10.8. Slip the cable out of the bracket, and pull the
yoke on the end of the cable down through the
gap between the bracket and the frame.
10.9. To install the new cable, hook the spring on the
end of the replacement cable through the yoke
on the end of the cable being removed.
See Figure 10.9.
New Cable
Old Cable
10.17. Secure the pin with a hairpin clip.
10.18. Close the hood, and install the two bolts, rubber
washers, and flat washers that secure it using a
1/2” wrench.
10.19. Route the spring end of the cable under the
bracket that supports the shift lock-out arm and
the clutch pulley brake arm. See Figure 10.19.
2
Spring
Cable (routed under
bracket)
Figure 10.19
Figure 10.9
10.10. Secure the two cables together with a wrap of
duct tape.
10.11. Withdraw the old cable from the engine compartment, fishing the new cable into position in the
process.
NOTE: If the old cable is broken, the new cable
can be pushed through the channel beneath the
floor of the Big Country.
10.12. Remove the duct tape, and disconnect the two
cables.
10.13. Working at the front of the vehicle, thread the
first jam nut on the end of the cable housing all
the way up against the shoulder of the cable
housing end.
10.14. Slip the clevis up through the bracket and position the cable end in the bracket.
10.15. Tighten the jam nuts using a pair of ½”
wrenches.
10.16. Connect the yokes of the three cables to the
brake pedal by installing the long clevis pin.
10.20. Hook the spring onto the clutch pulley brake
arm.
10.21. Install the pin of the ferrule through the hole in
the shift lock-out arm, and secure it with a flat
washer and hairpin clip.
10.22. Perform the steps detailed in the “Clutch Pulley
Brake and Shift Interlock Adjustment” section of
this manual.
11.Clutch Pulley Brake and Shift Interlock
Adjustment
11.1. If the parking brake is set, release it.
11.2. Remove the belt guard using the procedure
described in the “Belt Removal and Replacement” section of this manual.
11.3. Remove the hairpin clip and flat washer that
secure the ferrule on the threaded end of the
cable to the shift lock-out arm and disconnect
the ferrule from the arm.
11.4. While the cable is disconnected from the shift
lock-out arm, make sure that the arm and the
clutch pulley brake arm move freely.
2- 13
Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages
11.5. If either arm binds or exhibits excessive play,
i n s p e c t t h e b u s h i n g s t h a t t h e a r m p i v o t s o n .
See Figure 11.5.
Ferrule
Stop Bolt
Clutch Pulley Brake Arm
Driven Clutch Pulley
Figure 11.5
11.6. Measure the gap between the closest point of
the pad to the pulley.
NOTE: Because the tension springs that apply
and return the clutch pulley brake arm are
mounted to the bottom of the arm the closest
point between the pad and the clutch pulley is
likely to be at the bottom edge of the pad.
11.7. Adjust the travel stop bolt using a 7/16” wrench
to loosen the jam nut and a 3/8” wrench to turn
the bolt. See Figure 11.7.
Adjust Here
Interlock Arm
11.9. Tighten the jam nut to lock the adjustment.
11.10. Loosen the jam nuts on either side of the ferrule
using a pair of 1/2” wrenches.
11.11. Thread the ferrule up or down the threaded end
of the cable housing to reach a point where the
pin on the ferrule slips easily through the hole in
the clutch pulley brake arm.
NOTE: The cable should be taught, but the
spring that connects the cable to the brake arm
should not be under enough tension to bring the
driven clutch pulley brake pad into contact with
the pulley when the ferrule is installed.
11.12. Secure the ferrule to the brake arm using a hairpin clip and flat washer.
11.13. Tighten the jam nuts against both sides of the
ferrule using a pair of ½” wrenches.
11.14. Operate the brake pedal and shift lever to insure
that they work correctly.
NOTE: If difficulty is encountered engaging
either gear while the parking brake is set, the
cable needs to be tightened slightly.
11.15. Install the belt guard using two 1/2” wrenches.
11.16. Lower, and secure the bed.
11.17. Lower the Big
11.18. country to the ground
11.19. Test drive the vehicle to check the following
functions:
•Effectiveness of parking brake on a 15 degree
grade. See Figure 11.19.
Measure Here
(1/8” - 3/16”)
Figure 11.7
11.8. Loosen the jam nut, adjust the bolt so that there
is 1/8” of clearance between the brake pad and
the clutch pulley,
Figure 11.19
2 - 14
Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages
•Equal and effective application of both sets of
brakes (left and right).
•Complete engagement of shift lock-out mechanism when the brakes are released.
•Complete disengagement of shift lock-out mechanism when brakes are applied.
•Complete engagement of clutch pulley brake
when brakes are applied, and complete release
when the brakes are released.
NOTE: If the transmission clashes on engagement of forward or reverse, the clutch pulley
brake and shift interlock cable needs to be tightened slightly.
NOTE: If the brake pad drags on the clutch pulley with the brake pedal released, the clutch pulley and shift interlock cable needs to be
loosened slightly.
11.20. Install the plenum by reversing the steps used to
remove it.
NOTES
12.4. Remove the two bolts that fasten the plenum to
the frame using a pair of 9/16” wrenches.
12.5. Lift the plenum straight up, and remove it.
See Figure 12.5.
2
Figure 12.5
NOTE: There are two rubber washers that fit
between the plenum and the frame.
12.Shift Interlock Arm Removal and Replacement
NOTE: If the shift lock-out arm is being removed
in conjunction with other service to the brakes
and related linkages, the plenum removal
instructions may be redundant.
12.1. Lift and secure the bed.
12.2. Fold both seats forward.
12.6. Remove the hairpin clip and flat washer that hold
the ferrule into the lockout arm.
12.7. Push the ferrule down to release it from the lockout arm. See Figure 12.7.
Interlock Arm
Ferrule
Shift Rod
Clevis Pin
12.8. Remove the hairpin clip, flat washer, and clevis
pin that connect the clevis on the shift rod to the
shift arm on the transmission.
Clevis
Figure 12.7
12.3. Loosen the hose clamp at the plenum end of the
hose that connects the plenum to the air filter.
2- 15
Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages
12.9. Remove the nut from the shoulder bolt that the
lock-out arm pivots on using a 9/16” wrench and
a ¾” wrench. See Figure 12.9.
Figure 12.9
12.10. Lift-up and pivot the arm to release the spring
that maintains tension between the lock-out arm
and the clutch pulley brake arm.
12.15. Hook the spring through the hole in the interlock
arm, and stretch the spring to allow the shoulder
bolt to reach the slot in the bracket.
See Figure 12.15.
Hook-up spring
Figure 12.15
NOTE: The end of the spring that hooks inward
connects to the lock-out arm.
12.11. Remove the interlock arm from the vehicle.
12.12. Inspect the arm and replace the bushings. See
Figure 12.12.
Shoulder Bolt
Heavy Flat Washer
Bushings
Bellville Washer
Center-locking Nut
Figure 12.12
12.13. Lubricate the shoulder bolt with dry PTFE-based
lubricant and insert it through the heavy flat
washer, the arm and the bushings.
12.14. Position the bellville washer over the slot in the
bracket that the lock-out arm mounts to.
12.16. Insert the shoulder bolt through the belleville
washer and the bracket, securing it with the center lock flange nut.
12.17. Install the clevis pin through the transmission
shift arm.
12.18. Position the lockout arm so that the clevis pin
that connects the shift link to the shift arm is centered in the appropriate notch in each of the
three positions. See Figure 12.18.
Transmission Shift Arm
Clevis Pin
Reverse
Neutral
Test Fit:
Pin Centered in notch
Figure 12.18
Forward
2 - 16
Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages
NOTE: The mounting hole is slotted to allow
adjustment.
NOTE: If the lock-out link forces the shift arm to
one side or the other it will apply a constant load
to the shift collar inside the transmission, reducing service life.
NOTE: If the lock-out link is disabled it is possible to shift from one motion gear to the opposite
while the Big Country is in motion. This will
cause immediate and severe damage to the
transmission. Repair of damage caused by an
intentionally disabled interlock is not warrantable.
12.19. Lock the shoulder bolt in place by tightening the
nut. Use a 9/16” wrench and a ¾” wrench.
13.Clutch Pulley Brake Arm Removal and
Replacement
13.1. Remove the belt guard using the procedure
described in the “Belt Removal” section of this
manual.
13.2. Remove the hairpin clip and flat washer that hold
the ferrule on the clutch pulley brake and shift
interlock cable into the interlock arm.
2
13.3. Push the ferrule down to release it from the lockout arm.
13.4. Unhook the spring that connects the clutch pulley brake arm to the cable.
13.5. Remove the hairpin clip, flat washer, and clevis
pin that connect the clevis on the shift rod to the
transmission lever. See Figure 13.5.
12.20. Insert the clevis pin through the clevis on the end
of the shift rod, and through the shift arm.
12.21. Secure the clevis pin with a hairpin clip and flat
washer.
12.22. Insert the pin of the ferrule (threaded onto the
cable end) through the hole in the interlock arm
and secure it with a flat washer and hairpin clip.
12.23. Install the plenum by reversing the steps used to
remove it.
NOTES
Spacer
Shift Rod Clevis
Interlock
Arm
Figure 13.5
NOTE: This will relieve tension on the return
spring that connects the lock-out arm with the
clutch pulley brake arm.
13.6. Remove the nut, bolt, flat washer and spacer
that hold the top to the interlock bracket to the
transmission using two 9/16” wrenches.
Interlock Bracket
Ferrule
13.7. Remove the nut and bolt that hold the bottom of
the interlock bracket to the transmission using
two 9/16” wrenches.
13.8. Maneuver the interlock assembly out from
between the transmission and the frame crossmember, and remove it from the Big Country.
2- 17
Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages
13.9. On the bench, remove the nut from the shoulder
bolt that the clutch pulley brake arm pivots on
using a 9/16” wrench and a ¾” wrench.
See Figure 13.9.
Brake Arm
Shoulder Bolt
Figure 13.9
13.10. Pull the brake arm off of the interlock bracket,
and unhook the spring that connects it to the
interlock arm
13.11. Pry the bushings out of the hole that the shoulder bolt passes through. See Figure 13.11.
13.13. To install the clutch pulley brake arm, hook
the return spring through the hole in the interlock
arm, and position the brake arm on the bracket.
NOTE: The end of the spring that hooks outward
connects to the clutch pulley brake arm.
13.14. lubricate the shoulder of the bolt with dry PTFE
or graphite based lubricant and insert it through
the heavy flat washer, the arm and the bushings.
13.15. Install the nut on the shoulder bolt.
13.16. Position the interlock assembly in the Big Country and secure it with the lower nut and bolt,
installed finger tight.
13.17. Install the spacer, bolt, washer, and nut in the
upper mounting holes in the bracket and transmission.
13.18. Install the clevis pin through the yoke on the shift
link and the transmission shift arm and secure it
with a flat washer and hairpin clip.
13.19. Insert the pin on the ferrule through the hole in
the lock-out link and secure it with a flat washer
and a hairpin clip.
13.20. Check the adjustment and operation of the
clutch pulley brake and shift interlock. Refer to
the “Shift Interlock and Clutch Pulley Brake
Adjustment” section of this manual.
Bushings
Figure 13.11
13.12. Inspect the arm and bracket, and replace the
bushings.
13.21. Install the belt guard and plenum by reversing
the steps used to remove them.
NOTES
2 - 18
Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages
14.Belt Removal and Replacement
14.1. The Belt should be checked for wear every 40
hours.
This is a visual inspection, and does not
necessarily involve belt removal.
NOTE: The belt is the primary wear item in the
drive system. If drive system performance
begins to degrade, inspect or replace the belt.
NOTE: The driving clutch should engage the
belt at 2,100 R.P.M. Check the engagement
speed before and after changing the belt. If
engagement speed is high before changing the
belt, but remains high with the new belt, there
may be an issue with the driving clutch.
NOTE: If drive system operation seems labored,
or if the belt wears prematurely, insure that the
brakes are not dragging.
14.2. To remove the belt, remove the belt guard
using the following procedure:
•Lift and secure the bed.
•Fold both seats forward.
•Loosen the hose clamp at the plenum end of the
hose that connects the plenum to the air filter.
•Remove the two bolts that fasten the plenum to
the frame using a pair of 9/16” wrenches.
•Lift the plenum straight up, and remove it.
14.4. Roll the belt off of the driven clutch pulley.
See Figure 14.4.
2
Driving Clutch Pulley
Driven Clutch Pulley
Figure 14.4
14.5. Turn the belt in-side-out.
NOTE: Clearance between the driving clutch
pulley and the frame may be extremely tight.
Turning the belt inside-out will help avoid scarring the belt during removal and installation.
14.6. Roll the belt off of the driving clutch pulley.
See Figure 14.6.
NOTE: There are rubber flat washers between
the plenum and the frame.
•Disconnect the barbed cable tie from the belt
guard.
•Remove the two horizontal bolts that hold the
belt guard to the frame using a ½” wrench.
•Remove the nuts from the bottom of the two vertical bolts that hold the belt guard to the frame,
using a pair of ½” wrenches.
•Lift the belt guard straight up and removed it.
14.3. Remove the clutch pulley brake arm according
to the instruction in the “Removal and Installation
of the Clutch Pulley Brake Arm” section of this
manual.
Engine Support
Frame
Figure 14.6
14.7. Inspect the clutch pulleys for signs of wear or
damage.
14.8. Reverse the removal procedure to install the belt.
Driving Clutch
2- 19
Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages
15.Driven Clutch Pulley Removal and Replacement
15.1. Set the parking brake
15.2. Place the shift lever in forward gear.
15.3. Loosen the bolt that secures the driven clutch
pulley to the input shaft of the transmission using
a 17 mm wrench.
15.4. Remove the drive belt from the driven clutch pulley as described in the “Drive Belt Removal and
Replacement” section of this manual.
See Figure 15.4.
NOTES
16.Driving Clutch Pulley Removal and Replacement
16.1. If equipped with fixed chain guides, remove the
upper chain guide using a 9/16” wrench as
described in the “Chain Tension Adjustment”
section of this manual.
16.2. If equipped with rotary chain tensioners,
retract the tensioner and lock it into position with
a pin, as described in the “Rotary Chain Tensioner” section of this manual.
Bolt (loosened)
Figure 15.4
15.5. Completely remove the bolt and flat washer that
secure the driven clutch pulley to the input shaft
of the transmission.
15.6. Slip the pulley off of the shaft.
15.7. To install the driven clutch pulley, reverse the
removal procedure.
NOTE: Apply a small amount of anti-seize compound to the splines that drive of the driven
clutch pulley prior to installing it on the Big Country.
NOTE: Apply Loctite 242 or an equivalent
thread locking compound to the threads of the
bolt that holds the pulley to the input shaft.
NOTE: Torque the bolt to 35-40 ft-lb.
Driven Clutch Pulley
(belt removed)
16.3. Remove the belt as described in the “Belt
Removal and Replacement” section of this manual.
16.4. Lock the driven clutch into position using a pry
bar between the head of one of the bolts that
holds the cover on the clutch and the washer
under the head of the bolt that holds the clutch to
the crankshaft. See Figure 16.4.
9/16” wrench
Pry Bar
Figure 16.4
16.5. Remove the bolt that holds the clutch to the
crankshaft using a 9/16” wrench.
2 - 20
Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages
16.6. Slip the clutch off the end of the crankshaft. See
Figure 16.6.
Figure 16.6
NOTE: It will be necessary to partially remove
the key that rides between the clutch and the
crankshaft as the clutch is removed.
16.7. To install the driving clutch pulley on the Big
Country, reverse the removal procedure.
NOTE: Apply a small amount of anti-seize compound to the bore of the driving clutch pulley
prior to installing it on the Big Country.
NOTE: Apply Loctite 242 or an equivalent
thread locking compound to the bolt that holds
the pulley to the crankshaft.
NOTE: Torque the bolt to 20-30 ft-lb.
NOTES
17.Transmission Removal and Replacement
17.1. Remove the two bolts, flat washers, and rubber
washers that secure the hood using a 9/16”
wrench.
17.2. Disconnect the negative battery cable using a
7/16” wrench. See Figure 17.2.
2
Negative Battery Cable
Figure 17.2
17.3. Remove the driven clutch pulley as described in
the “Driven Clutch Pulley Removal and Replacement” section of this manual.
17.4. Lift the Big Country and remove the wheels as
described in the “Lifting the Big Country and
Removing the Wheels” section of this manual.
17.5. Position a drain pan (minimum capacity: one gallon) under the transmission drain plug.
See Figure 17.5.
2- 21
Transmission Drain Plug
Figure 17.5
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