Cub Cadet Big Country User Manual

Table of Contents

Introduction.........................................................................................Section 1.............................Page

Safety.......................................................................................................... 1-1.....................................1-1

Model and Serial Numbers..........................................................................1-2.....................................1-1

Fasteners....................................................................................................1-3.....................................1-2

Special Tools..............................................................................................1-4...................................... 1-2

Consumable Parts.......................................................................................1-5.....................................1-3

Lubrication Chart.........................................................................................1-6.....................................1-4

Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages......................................... Section 2.............................Page

Shift Linkage Description............................................................................ 2-1.....................................2-1

Shift Linkage Removal and Replacement...................................................2-2.....................................2-1

Shift Linkage Adjustment............................................................................ 2-3.....................................2-3

Differential Lock, Checking Operation of.................................................... 2-4.....................................2-4

Differential Lock, Linkage Removal and Replacement............................... 2-5.....................................2-4

Differential Lock, Cable Adjustment............................................................2-6.....................................2-6

Brake System Description.......................................................................... 2-7.....................................2-6

Brake Cable Removal and Replacement....................................................2-8.....................................2-7

Brake Cable Adjustment............................................................................. 2-9.....................................2-10

Clutch Pulley Brake and Shift Interlock Cable Removal............................. 2-10...................................2-12

Clutch Pulley Brake and Shift Interlock Adjustment....................................2-11................................... 2-13

Shift Interlock Arm Removal and Replacement.......................................... 2-12...................................2-15

Clutch Pulley Brake Arm Removal and Replacement.................................2-13.................................. 2-17

Belt Removal and Replacement..................................................................2-14...................................2-19

Driven Clutch Pulley Removal and Replacement....................................... 2-15...................................2-20

Driving Clutch Pulley Removal and Replacement...................................... 2-16...................................2-20

Transmission Removal and Replacement.................................................. 2-17...................................2-21

Internal Transmission Service.................................................................... 2-18...................................2-25

Torque Table............................................................................................... 2-19...................................2-34

Table of Contents

Drive Axle Service................................................................. .Section 3.............................Page

Lift the Big Country and Remove the Drive Wheels........................3-1....................................3-1

Chain Lubrication........................................................................... 3-2.....................................3-2

Chain Retention............................................................................. 3-3.....................................3-2

Chain Tension Adjustment (Fixed Chain Guides).......................... 3-4.....................................3-4

Chain Guide Removal and Replacement....................................... 3-5.................................... 3-5

Chain Removal and Replacement..................................................3-6.....................................3-6

Chain Tensioner Removal (Roller Tensioners)...............................3-7.................................... 3-7

Spring and Shock Assembly Removal .......................................... 3-8.....................................3-11

Front Drive Axle Removal and Replacement................................. 3-9.....................................3-13

Front Drive Sprocket...................................................................... 3-10...................................3-16

Universal Joint Removal and Replacement................................... 3-11...................................3-17

Universal Joint Service...................................................................3-12...................................3-18

Rear Drive Axle Removal and Replacement..................................3-13...................................3-22

Rear Sprocket Removal and Replacement.................................... 3-14...................................3-23

Axle Bushing Removal and Replacement......................................3-15...................................3-23

Axle Bearing Removal and Replacement...................................... 3-16...................................3-25

Torque Table.................................................................................. 3-17...................................3-26

Engine and Transmission Support Assembly.....................Section 4............................. Page

Engine and Transmission Support Assembly:

Removal and Replacement as a Unit.............................................4-1.....................................4-1

Engine Removal and Replacement............................................... 4-2.....................................4-9

Isolator Mounts (Rear) Removal and Replacement........................4-3....................................4-12

Isolator Mounts (Front) Removal and Replacement........................4-4....................................4-13

Torque Table...................................................................................4-5.....................................4-14

Fuel System........................................................................... Section 5............................. Page

Precautions.................................................................................... 5-1.....................................5-1

About the Fuel System.................................................................. 5-2.....................................5-2

Fuel Tank Removal and Replacement........................................... 5-3.....................................5-3

Fuel Pump Performance................................................................ 5-4.....................................5-5

Fuel Pump Removal and Replacement..........................................5-5.................................... 5-6

Plenum and Air Filter..................................................................... 5-6.....................................5-7

Choke Cable Removal and Replacement...................................... 5-7.................................... 5-8

Choke Cable Adjustment............................................................... 5-8.....................................5-9

Throttle Cable Removal and Replacement.................................... 5-9.....................................5-10

Table of Contents

Front Suspension................................................................................Section 6............................ Page

Lifting the Big Country and Removing the Front Wheels............................ 6-1.....................................6-1

Front Suspension and Steering Component Inspection............................. 6-2.....................................6-2

Checking and Adjusting Front Wheel Alignment.........................................6-3.....................................6-5

Steering Wheel Removal and Replacement............................................... 6-4.....................................6-8

Wheel Bearing Removal and Replacement................................................ 6-5.....................................6-8

Tie Rod End Removal and Replacement................................................... 6-6.....................................6-9

Spring and Shock Unit Removal and Replacement....................................6-7.....................................6-10

Steering Knuckle Removal and Replacement............................................ 6-8.....................................6-11

Front Axle Assembly Removal and Replacement...................................... 6-9.....................................6-13

Steering Rack Removal and Replacement................................................. 6-10...................................6-15

Torque Table............................................................................................... 6-11...................................6-18

Electrical............................................................................................. Section 7............................. Page

Component Location...................................................................................7-1.....................................7-1

Big Country Starter Circuit.......................................................................... 7-2.....................................7-4

Big Country Run Circuit...............................................................................7-3.....................................7-5

Big Country Accessory Circuit.....................................................................7-4.....................................7-6

Big Country Complete Schematic................................................................7-5.....................................7-7

Table of Contents

Blank Page

Section 1: Introduction

1. Safety

1.1. Before servicing the Big Country, technicians should be familiar with the vehicle and the Operator’s Manual that applies to it. There are important instructions that pertain to safe and correct operation and service of the Big Country contained in the Operator’s Manual

1.2. The procedures in the Service Manual ten with the safety of the technician and operator as a primary consideration. Failure to follow these procedures may create a dangerous condition.

1.3. There is no substitute for common sense.

2. Model and Serial Numbers

2.1. The engine and transmission are components that Cub Cadet has purchased from outside sources and incorporated into the Big Country utility vehicle. The Chassis, engine, and transmission each have separate model and serial numbers.

2.2. To make parts identification easier, and to accommodate warranty administration, the chassis numbers should be recorded in the Operator’s Manual as well as the sales receipt.

2.3. Chassis Identification: The model and serial number of the Big Country are located on a tag on the bottom of the plate that driver’s seat is mounted to. Tilt the seat forward to view the tag. See Figure 2.3.

are writ-

2.4. If the tag comes off, or if the seat plate is removed, the servicing dealer can get a new tag issued by calling Cub Cadet.

2.5. The servicing dealer must be able to identify a Big Country by model and serial number in order to perform warranty service on that unit.

2.6. Engine Identification: The engine serial number is located behind the starter motor. See Figure 2.6.

Starter Motor Locating Dowels (starter removed for clarity)

Serial Number

Figure 2.6

2.7. The engine serial number is easily visible from under the Big Country without removing any parts. See Figure 2.7.

Figure 2.3

Engine Numbers

Oil Drain Valve

Figure 2.7

1 - 1

Section 1: Introduction

2.8. The engine family and specification numbers are located on a tag on the rear cylinder shroud of the engine.

2.9. The transmission identification number is located on a flat surface adjacent to the dipstick. See Figure 2.9.

Transmission Number

Figure 2.9

4. Special Tools

NOTE: We are not in the tool business. Where

special tools will make a specific job easier for the technician, we offer them.

4.1. Shock and Spring Unit Removal and Installa- tion Tool: Part Number 703-05103 is designed to hook into the upper spring and shock absorber mount on the drive axles. See Figure 4.1.

Shock and Spring Unit Tool

Part Number 703-05103

3. Fasteners

3.1. A combination of metric and SAE fasteners are used to assemble the Big Country. If a metric

tool size is specified in this manual, the fastener will be metric. If fractional inch tool size is specified in this manual, the fastener will be SAE.

3.2. When servicing a Big Country it is important to replace locking hardware when it is worn. Lock washers should be replaced if they show any sign of flattening. Nylon insert lock nuts and center-lock nuts should be replaced when they get easy to turn. The bolts used in conjunction with center-lock nuts are also subject to wear. They should be replaced if the thread profile is noticeably worn. Any hardware that shows signs of wear, stripping, or stretch should be replaced in the course of normal service. If locking hardware is not readily available, thread locking compound such as Loctite 242 (blue) should be used.

3.3. All torque specifications will be given in inchpounds or foot-pounds, whichever scale is appropriate for a particular fastener. This includes metric fasteners.

Figure 4.1

4.2. Use the dowel to hold the spacers in position on each side of the top mounting point of the spring and shock absorber unit during the removal and installation process. See Figure 4.2.

703-05103

Dowel Pin

Spacers

Mounting Bolt

Figure 4.2

1 - 2

NOTE: A 3/8” by 1 3/8” steel dowel pin can be

made or purchased locally.

Section 1: Introduction

4.3. Universal Joint Spacer Tool: See Figure 4.3.

Universal Joint Spacer Tool

Part Number 703-05104

Figure 4.3

4.4. Part Number 703-05104 is used to set the correct clearance between the end of the axle assembly and the end of the universal joint on the drive axles. See Figure 4.4.

4.5. Two 1/4” by 4 1/2” long dowel pins are used to lock the roller-type chain Tensioner in the released position. The can be made or purchased locally. See Figure 4.5.

Dowel pins used to lock chain tensioners in the released position

Side of Frame Between Drive Axles

Figure 4.5

Figure 4.4

Universal Joint Spacer Tool In Position

5. Consumable Parts:

Component Part Number

Oil Filter 15400-POH-

305PE

Air Filter 751-3027

Drive Belt 754-0646

Battery (Shipped Dry) 925-1707E

1 - 3

Section 1: Introduction

5.9 qt.

6. Lubrication Specifications.

Application Type Amount Part Number

Engine Oil general use

Engine Oil sub-freezing

Gear Lube Drive System Fluid

10W-30 API: SJ 1.16 qt.

1.48 qt. with / filter

5W-30 API: SJ 1.16 qt.

1.48 qt. with / filter

189 oz. 737-3120

737-3030A

Obtain Locally

Plus

Chain Lube Aerosol As Needed 737-3038

Chain Lube Dusty Conditions

Dry Aerosol: PTFE or Graphite Base

As Needed Obtain Locally

Penetrating Lube Spray As Needed 737-3037

Chassis Lube E.P. Chassis Lube As Needed 737-3034

Chassis Lube Alvania E.P. lead

As Needed 737-0168A

free ROO Grease

Chassis Lube Benalene 920 As Needed 737-0300

Anti-Sieze Compound As Needed Obtain Locally

1 - 4

Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages

1. Shift Linkage

NOTE: The shift linkage and brake linkage of the

Big Country are tied together by a shift interlock mechanism that prevents the operator from shifting gears while the vehicle is in motion. The brake pedal must be depressed before the gearshift lever will move. The effect is the same whether the brake is held down by the operator’s foot or by the parking brake.

NOTE: A clutch pulley brake operates in unison with the vehicle brakes inside the transmission. The purpose of the clutch pulley brake is to insure that the input shaft of the transmission is not rotating when the operator shifts gears. This prevents gear “crunch” on engagement, and improves transmission life.

NOTE: The shift lever is the longer of the two levers located between the seats. The shorter lever is the differential lock. See Figure 1.0.

Reverse

Shift Lever

2. Shift Linkage Removal and Replacement

NOTE: If an operator has tried to shift gears

without using the brake or if the interlock mechanism is out of adjustment, shift linkage damage may occur.

2.1. Turn the engine off, remove the key, put the transmission in neutral, and set the parking brake.

2.2. Lift and secure the bed.

2.3. Fold both seats forward.

2.4. To reach the shift lever and the front of the shift rod, remove the bolt that fastens the cup holder between the seats using a 3/8” wrench. See Figure 2.4.

Cup Holder (Bolt Removed)

Parcel Bin

Neutral

Differential Lock

Forward

Figure 1.0

NOTE: The shift lever has three positions to

select from. “Forward” is selected by pushing the shift lever forward and down. “Reverse” is selected by pulling the gearshift up and back. “Neutral” is centered between “Forward” and “Reverse”.

Figure 2.4

2.5. Remove the cup holder.

2.6. Remove the two bolts that fasten the parcel bin into the recess beneath the passenger seat using a 1/2” wrench.

2.7. Lift out the parcel bin and set it aside.

2- 1

Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages

2.8. Inspect the shift interlock mechanism. If the interlock mechanism does not work properly, refer to the “Shift Interlock and Clutch Pulley Brake Adjustment” section of this manual. See Figure 2.8.

Interlock Arm

Figure 2.8

2.10. To Remove the shift rod, remove the hairpin clip and clevis pin that connect it to the transmission shift arm. See Figure 2.10.

Transmission Lever

Shift Rod

Clevis Pin

Hairpin Clip

Figure 2.10

2.11. To remove the shift lever, remove the red knob from the end of the shift lever.

2.9. Remove the hairpin clip and flat washer that secure the shift rod to the shift lever and disconnect the shift rod by pulling it out of the hole in the lever. See Figure 2.9.

Shift Lever

Hairpin Clip

Shift Rod

Figure 2.9

NOTE: The knob and lever are threaded.

2.12. Remove the bolt that holds the pivot pin to the frame. See Figure 2.12.

End of

Pivot Pin

Shift Lever

Shift Rod

Figure 2.12

2 - 2

Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages

2.13. Withdraw the pivot pin. See Figure 2.13.

Pivot Pin

Figure 2.13

2.14. Remove the shift lever.

2.15. Reverse the removal procedures to install the shift linkage components.

NOTE: Apply white lithium grease to all pivot

points on assembly.

NOTE: Check shift linkage adjustment before returning the unit to service.

3. Shift Linkage Adjustment

3.1. Perform steps 1 through 7 of the “Shift Linkage Removal” section of this manual.

3.2. Use a 9/16” wrench to loosen the jam nut that locks the clevis on the end shift rod. See Figure 3.2.

3.3. Remove the hairpin clip and clevis pin that connect the clevis to the transmission shift arm.

3.4. Rotate the clevis to thread it up or down the length of the shift link. See Figure 3.4.

Transmission Lever

Clevis

Figure 3.4

3.5. Check the position of the hole in the transmission lever in relation to the hole in the clevis with the transmission and shift lever in forward gear and reverse gear.

NOTE: Forward and Reverse are at the two extreme ends of the shift lever’s travel. If they are both correct, neutral will be correct as well.

3.6. Connect the clevis to the transmission lever by installing the clevis pin and hairpin clip.

3.7. Tighten the jam nut using a 9/16” wrench, locking the adjustment.

Jam Nut

Shift Rod

Clevis Pin

Clevis

Figure 3.2

Jam Nut

Shift rod

3.8. Test the function of the shift lever with the brake pedal depressed.

NOTE: The lever should click firmly into each of the three positions without hitting the end of its travel.

NOTE: The travel of the shift lever should be centered in the slot.

NOTE: If an extreme amount of adjustment is necessary to center the gearshift lever, the linkage may be damaged.

2- 3

Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages

NOTE: When the brake is released and a gear is

engaged, the pin that connects the clevis to the transmission shift lever should be centered in a slot in the interlock arm. If it is not, refer to the “Shift Interlock and Clutch Brake Adjustment” section of this manual.

NOTE: When the parking brake is set, the shift lever should move between gears without catching or dragging against the interlock arm. If it does not, refer to the “Shift Interlock Adjustment and Clutch Brake Adjustment” section of this manual.

4. Checking Operation of the Differential Lock Mechanism

4.1. Lift and safely support the drive wheels of the Big Country according to the procedures listed in the “Lifting the Big Country and Removing the Drive Wheels” section of this manual.

NOTE: Operation of the differential lock mechanism may be tested by manually rotating the drive wheels.

4.2. With the differential lock released both drive wheels on eather side of the vehicle should spin when either the front or rear drive wheel is rotated by hand. The drive wheels on the other side of the Big Country should remain stationary.

4.3. With the differential lock lever pulled-up roughly half the length of the slot that it travels in, all four wheels should rotate if any one wheel is turned by hand.

4.4. The differential lock should engage within 90 degrees of front drive wheel rotation.

NOTE: Internal transmission damage, or collision damage may result if the differential lock lever is not operated in accordance with the instructions in the “Big Country Operator’s Manual”.

NOTE: It is normal for the steering abilities of any six-wheeled vehicle to be greatly diminished while the differential is locked.

NOTES

5. Differential Lock Linkage Removal and Replacement

5.1. To reach the differential lock cable, Perform steps 1 through 7 of the “Shift Linkage Removal” section of this manual.

5.2. To remove the cable, loosen the jam nuts that hold the differential lock cable to the differential lock bracket. See Figure 5.2.

Differential Lock Bracket

4.5. Once engaged, it will remain engaged even if the lever is released, as long as there is a difference in the drive load between the left and right sides of the vehicle.

NOTE: In service, differences in drive load would result from greater traction on one side than the other, attempting to turn the vehicle while the differential lock is engaged, a dragging brake on one side or the other, or grossly different air pressures in the tires from one side to the other.

4.6. When the drive load is equalized from left to right, the differential lock will automatically disengage if the lever has been released.

Jam Nuts

Differential Lock cable

Figure 5.2

NOTE: The differential lock bracket is located at

the right rear corner of the transmission, beneath the air filter.

5.3. Pull the cable housing out of the bracket.

2 - 4

Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages

5.4. Pivot the cable in the differential lock arm so that the cable aligns with the slot in the arm. This will allow the barrel at the end of the cable to be remove from the arm. See Figure 5.4.

Slot

Differential Lock Arm

Figure 5.4

5.5. Trace the cable forward to the bracket on the frame. See Figure 5.5.

5.8. Unhook the spring at the end of the cable from the differential lock lever. See Figure 5.8.

Differential Lock Lever

Differential Lock Cable

Figure 5.8

5.9. To remove the differential lock lever, first remove the cable.

5.10. Release the return spring that runs between the differential lock lever and the frame. See Figure 5.10.

Jam Nuts

Front Bracket

Differential Lock Cable

Figure 5.5

5.6. Loosen the jam nuts that hold the cable in the bracket.

5.7. Slip the cable out of the bracket.

Return Spring

Differential Lock Lever

Figure 5.10

NOTE: This spring is most easily reached from

beneath the driver’s seat.

5.11. Remove the black knob from the end of the differential lock lever. It is threaded onto the lever.

5.12. Remove the bolt that holds the pivot pin into the frame using a ½” wrench.

2- 5

Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages

5.13. Withdraw the pivot pin far enough to clear the differential lock lever, and remove the lever. See Figure 5.13.

Partially Removed Pivot Pin

Bolt Hole

Figure 5.13

5.14. Reverse the removal procedure to install the differential lock lever.

5.15. Use the following procedure to install the differential lock cable.

5.16. Thread the first jam nut on the front (spring) end of the cable housing all the way to the shoulder of the threaded end.

5.19. Tighten the second jam nut against the bracket to secure the cable.

5.20. Insert the barrel on the end of the cable through the hole in the differential lock arm by aligning the cable with the slot in the arm.

5.21. Thread the first jam nut on the back (barrel) end of the cable housing all the way to the shoulder of the threads.

5.22. Position the cable housing in the bracket mounted to the transmission.

5.23. Thread the second jam nut up against the bracket to secure the cable.

5.24. Check cable adjustment after replacement.

NOTES

6. Differential Lock Cable Adjustment

6.1. To reach the differential lock cable, Perform steps 1 through 7 of the “Shift Linkage Removal” section of this manual.

6.2. Operate the differential lock lever and observe the motion of the cable and differential lock arm on the transmission. See Figure 6.2.

5.17. Hook the spring onto the differential lock lever.

5.18. Position the cable housing in the bracket attached to the frame. See Figure 5.18.

Figure 5.18

Engage

Differential Lock Lever

Figure 6.2

NOTE: To achieve full engagement, it may be

necessary to rotate the transmission clutch pulley until the differential lock pins align with their holes within the differential. At this point, additional movement of the differential lock lever will be noticeable.

2 - 6

Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages

6.3. When the differential lock lever is released, there should be slight slack in the cable.

6.4. When fully engaged, the differential lock arm should move up at least 3/4” as measured along the cable. See Figure 6.4.

NOTE: The differential lock bracket is located at the right rear corner of the transmission, beneath the air filter.

Differential Lock Bracket

Differential Lock Arm

3/4” to engagement

7. Brake System Description

7.1. There are two multi-disc wet brakes inside the transmission. One brake assembly works on the left out-put shaft, the other works on the right out-put shaft.

7.2. The brakes are actuated by two heavy cables that connect to the brake pedal.

7.3. A third cable connects to the brake pedal. The third cable is used to operate the clutch pulley brake and the shift interlock mechanism.

7.4. If the brakes are out of adjustment, the travel of the cable that operates the clutch pulley brake and shift interlock will be effected as well.

NOTES

8. Brake Cable Removal and Replacement

Figure 6.4

6.5. Loosen the jam nuts that hold the differential lock cable to the differential lock bracket.

6.6. Trace the cable to the bracket that is mounted to the frame.

NOTE: At both brackets, the inner jam nut should be all the way up against the shoulder of the threaded cable end.

NOTE: The differential lock lever is able to apply more movement to the cable than is necessary to engage the differential lock. Looseness of the cable will seldom be an issue.

6.7. If there is an issue with differential lock engagement or disengagement, inspect the cable, lever, and differential lock arm on the transmission for freedom of movement and correct mounting.

6.8. Lubricate or repair them as necessary. See “Differential Lock Linkage Removal and Replacement” section of this manual for linkage service instructions.

NOTE: If adjustment and repair of the linkage does not make the differential lock function properly, an internal transmission problem exists.

6.9. Install the cup holder and parcel bin by reversing the removal procedure.

8.1. Remove cup holder and parcel bin according to steps one through seven of the “Shift Linkage Removal” section of this manual.

8.2. Remove the two bolts that hold the hood closed.

8.3. Open the hood.

8.4. Release the brake return spring by unhooking the rear of the spring from the frame. See Figure 8.4.

Brake cable

Cam Arm

Brake Return Spring

Frame

Figure 8.4

2- 7

Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages

8.5. Remove the jam nut from the end of the brake cable core using a deep ½” socket on an extension. See Figure 8.5.

(Grip here if necessary.)

Cable Core

Cable Housing

Large Jam Nuts

NOTE: Use a pair of slip joint pliers to hold the cable, if necessary.

8.6. Loosen the large jam nuts that secure the cable housing to the bracket on the frame using a pair of 7/8” wrenches.

NOTE: The large jam nut to the rear of the bracket is easily accessible from below.

Jam Nut (Recessed in Cam Arm)

Figure 8.5

8.9. Slip the cable core through the slot in the bracket.

8.10. Working from the front of the Big Country, remove the hairpin clip and clevis pin that connect the brake cable clevises to the brake pedal. See Figure 8.10.

Brake Pedal

Hairpin Clip

Clevis Pin

Clevis (Right Brake Cable)

Clevis (Interlock and Clutch Brake Cable)

Figure 8.10

8.11. Slip the rubber boot off the end of the cable housing, and remove the large jam nut that is above the bracket using two 7/8” wrenches. See Figure 8.11.

Clevis (Left Brake Cable)

8.7. Slip the rubber boot off the end of the cable housing and remove the large jam nut nearest the end of the cable housing.

8.8. Pull the cable forward far enough for the cable housing to clear the bracket. See Figure 8.8.

Bracket

Rubber Boot

Figure 8.8

Bracket

Figure 8.11

8.12. Pull the cable down far enough for the cable housing to clear the bracket. The cable core will fit through the slot in the bracket.

8.13. To install a new brake cable, position the jam nut on the replacement cable ¼” from the end of the threads.

2 - 8

Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages

8.14. Slip the threaded end of the replacement cable into the yoke of the cable to be replaced. The nut should fit into the throat of the yoke, locking the two cables together. See Figure 8.14.

Clevis End of Old Cable

Threaded End of New Cable

Figure 8.14

8.15. Wrap the joint in duct tape.

8.16. Pull the old cable out through the engine compartment, fishing the replacement cable through the channel beneath the floor in the process. See Figure 8.16.

8.18. Slip the boot off the end of the cable housing and remove the large jam nut. See Figure 8.18.

Figure 8.18

8.19. Position the remaining jam nut on the new cable housing about 1” from the end of the housing.

8.20. Install the jam nut on the cable about ¼” from the shoulder of the threaded end.

8.21. Slip the cable core through the slot in the bracket, and draw the end of the cable housing into the bracket.

New Cable

Old cable

Figure 8.16

8.17. Unwrap the joint between the two cables, and remove the old cable.

8.22. Start the large jam nut onto the threads on the cable housing, and thread it up to the bracket.

8.23. Tighten both jam nuts using a pair of 7/8” wrenches.

8.24. Insert the cable end through the pivot pin on the brake cam lever. See Figure 8.18.

Pivot Pin

Figure 8.24

2- 9

Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages

8.25. Working at the front of the Big Country, thread the first jam nut all the way up the cable housing end until it stops against the shoulder. See Figure 8.25.

First Jam Nut (Thread to Shoulder)

Rubber Boot

Figure 8.25

8.26. Slip the cable core through the slot in the bracket, and draw the end of the cable housing into the bracket.

8.27. Slip the rubber boot back onto the end of the cable housing.

8.30. Apply a small amount of white E.P. chassis lube grease to the clevis pin, and install it through the brake pedal, the clevises of all three cables.

8.31. Secure the clevis pin with a hairpin clip.

8.32. Follow steps number five through number eight of the “Brake Cable Adjustment” procedure, to set the two jam nuts on the cable end.

NOTES

9. Brake Cable Adjustment

9.1. Safely lift and support the Big Country. Refer the the “Lifting the Big Country and Removing the Drive Wheels” section of this manual.

NOTE: It is not necessary to loosen the lug bolts or remove the wheels.

9.2. Lift and secure the bed.

9.3. Release the brake return spring by unhooking the rear of the spring from the frame. See Figure 9.3.

8.28. Start the second large jam nut onto the threads on the cable housing, and tighten against the bracket.

8.29. Tighten both large jam nuts against the bracket using a pair of 7/8” wrenches. See Figure 8.29.

Jam Nuts Tightened

Figure 8.29

Brake Cable

Cam Arm

Figure 9.3

9.4. Loosen the jam nut at the cam arm end of the brake cable core using a deep ½” socket on an extension.

NOTE: Use a pair of slip joint pliers to hold the cable, if necessary.

9.5. Thread the jam nut that is immediately forward of the cam arm all the way forward, to the shoulder of the threaded cable core end.

Brake Return Spring

2 - 10

Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages

9.6. Pull the threaded end of the cable core as far out (back) as possible, while pushing the brake cam arm forward until resistance is felt. See Figure 9.6.

Pull Cam Arm

Pull Cable

Figure 9.6

NOTE: The resistance indicates the point where

the brakes are applied.

9.7. Adjust the jam nut nearest the shoulder of the cable end one turn beyond the point where it contacts the pivot pin with the cable taught and the brake cam arm in the applied position.

9.12. Check the parking brake latch for correct operation. See Figure 9.12.

Parking Brake Switch

Parking Brake Latch (Engaged)

Upper Notch

Lower Notch

Figure 9.12

NOTE: The latch mechanism is visible beneath

the dashboard.

NOTE: There are two notches in the parking brake latch. The tab on the pedal should engage the upper notch.

9.13. Check the parking brake switch for correct actuation. See Figure 9.13.

Brake Pedal

NOTE: If there is insufficient thread length to do

this, use the large jam nuts on the end of the cable housing to make a coarse adjustment, bringing the cable into range to make a fine adjustment at the cable end.

9.8. Tighten the second jam nut up against the back side of the pivot pin.

9.9. Hook the rear end of the brake return spring back onto the frame.

9.10. Repeat the adjustment procedure on the second brake cable.

9.11. Make a preliminary check of the brakes:

• Rotate the drive wheels by hand with the brakes released. There should be no brake drag.

• Set the parking brake and attempt to rotate the drive wheels again. They should not move.

Parking Brake Rod

Tab on Parking Brake Latch

Adjustment Slot in Switch Bracket

Figure 9.13

9.14. With the parking brake set, loosen the screws that hold the parking brake switch to its bracket using a phillips head screwdriver and an 11/32” wrench.

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Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages

9.15. Slide the switch forward until the plunger on the switch makes an audible “click”, indicating the closure of the contacts within the switch.

NOTE: The plunger need not be fully depressed.

9.16. Secure the switch in this position by tightening the screws that hold it to the bracket.

9.17. Perform the “Clutch Pulley Brake and Shift Interlock Adjustment” section of this manual.

10. Clutch Pulley Brake and Shift Interlock Cable Removal and Replacement

NOTE: The ferrule is threaded onto the end of

the cable housing.

10.3. Push the ferrule down to release it from the lockout arm.

10.4. Disconnect the spring at the end of the cable from the clutch pulley brake arm. See Figure 10.4.

10.1. Remove the belt guard. Refer to the “Belt Removal and Replacement” section of this manual. See Figure 10.1.

Clutch Pulley Brake Arm

Driven Clutch Pulley

Figure 10.1

10.2. Remove the hairpin clip and flat washer that hold the ferrule to the interlock arm. See Figure 10.2.

Spring (end of Cable)

Figure 10.4

10.5. Remove the two bolts that hold the hood closed using a 1/2” wrench, and open the hood.

10.6. Remove the hairpin clip and clevis pin that hold the brake cable yokes to the brake pedal. See Figure 10.6.

Clevis Pin

Brake Pedal

Ferrule

Figure 10.2

Interlock Arm

Cable (operates clutch pulley brake and shift interlock arm)

Hairpin Clip

Shift Interlock and Clutch Pulley Brake Cable

Brake Cables

Figure 10.6

2 - 12

Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages

10.7. Loosen the jam nuts that hold the clutch pulley brake and shift interlock cable to the bracket using a pair of 1/2” wrenches.

NOTE: A crowfoot socket may be helpful.

10.8. Slip the cable out of the bracket, and pull the yoke on the end of the cable down through the gap between the bracket and the frame.

10.9. To install the new cable, hook the spring on the end of the replacement cable through the yoke on the end of the cable being removed. See Figure 10.9.

New Cable

Old Cable

10.17. Secure the pin with a hairpin clip.

10.18. Close the hood, and install the two bolts, rubber washers, and flat washers that secure it using a 1/2” wrench.

10.19. Route the spring end of the cable under the bracket that supports the shift lock-out arm and the clutch pulley brake arm. See Figure 10.19.

Spring

Cable (routed under bracket)

Figure 10.19

Figure 10.9

10.10. Secure the two cables together with a wrap of duct tape.

10.11. Withdraw the old cable from the engine compartment, fishing the new cable into position in the process.

NOTE: If the old cable is broken, the new cable can be pushed through the channel beneath the floor of the Big Country.

10.12. Remove the duct tape, and disconnect the two cables.

10.13. Working at the front of the vehicle, thread the first jam nut on the end of the cable housing all the way up against the shoulder of the cable housing end.

10.14. Slip the clevis up through the bracket and position the cable end in the bracket.

10.15. Tighten the jam nuts using a pair of ½” wrenches.

10.16. Connect the yokes of the three cables to the brake pedal by installing the long clevis pin.

10.20. Hook the spring onto the clutch pulley brake arm.

10.21. Install the pin of the ferrule through the hole in the shift lock-out arm, and secure it with a flat washer and hairpin clip.

10.22. Perform the steps detailed in the “Clutch Pulley Brake and Shift Interlock Adjustment” section of this manual.

11. Clutch Pulley Brake and Shift Interlock Adjustment

11.1. If the parking brake is set, release it.

11.2. Remove the belt guard using the procedure described in the “Belt Removal and Replacement” section of this manual.

11.3. Remove the hairpin clip and flat washer that secure the ferrule on the threaded end of the cable to the shift lock-out arm and disconnect the ferrule from the arm.

11.4. While the cable is disconnected from the shift lock-out arm, make sure that the arm and the clutch pulley brake arm move freely.

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Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages

11.5. If either arm binds or exhibits excessive play, i n s p e c t t h e b u s h i n g s t h a t t h e a r m p i v o t s o n . See Figure 11.5.

Ferrule

Stop Bolt

Clutch Pulley Brake Arm

Driven Clutch Pulley

Figure 11.5

11.6. Measure the gap between the closest point of the pad to the pulley.

NOTE: Because the tension springs that apply and return the clutch pulley brake arm are mounted to the bottom of the arm the closest point between the pad and the clutch pulley is likely to be at the bottom edge of the pad.

11.7. Adjust the travel stop bolt using a 7/16” wrench to loosen the jam nut and a 3/8” wrench to turn the bolt. See Figure 11.7.

Adjust Here

Interlock Arm

11.9. Tighten the jam nut to lock the adjustment.

11.10. Loosen the jam nuts on either side of the ferrule using a pair of 1/2” wrenches.

11.11. Thread the ferrule up or down the threaded end of the cable housing to reach a point where the pin on the ferrule slips easily through the hole in the clutch pulley brake arm.

NOTE: The cable should be taught, but the spring that connects the cable to the brake arm should not be under enough tension to bring the driven clutch pulley brake pad into contact with the pulley when the ferrule is installed.

11.12. Secure the ferrule to the brake arm using a hairpin clip and flat washer.

11.13. Tighten the jam nuts against both sides of the ferrule using a pair of ½” wrenches.

11.14. Operate the brake pedal and shift lever to insure that they work correctly.

NOTE: If difficulty is encountered engaging either gear while the parking brake is set, the cable needs to be tightened slightly.

11.15. Install the belt guard using two 1/2” wrenches.

11.16. Lower, and secure the bed.

11.17. Lower the Big

11.18. country to the ground

11.19. Test drive the vehicle to check the following functions:

• Effectiveness of parking brake on a 15 degree grade. See Figure 11.19.

Measure Here (1/8” - 3/16”)

Figure 11.7

11.8. Loosen the jam nut, adjust the bolt so that there is 1/8” of clearance between the brake pad and the clutch pulley,

Figure 11.19

2 - 14

Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages

• Equal and effective application of both sets of brakes (left and right).

• Complete engagement of shift lock-out mechanism when the brakes are released.

• Complete disengagement of shift lock-out mechanism when brakes are applied.

• Complete engagement of clutch pulley brake when brakes are applied, and complete release when the brakes are released.

NOTE: If the transmission clashes on engagement of forward or reverse, the clutch pulley brake and shift interlock cable needs to be tightened slightly.

NOTE: If the brake pad drags on the clutch pulley with the brake pedal released, the clutch pulley and shift interlock cable needs to be loosened slightly.

11.20. Install the plenum by reversing the steps used to remove it.

NOTES

12.4. Remove the two bolts that fasten the plenum to the frame using a pair of 9/16” wrenches.

12.5. Lift the plenum straight up, and remove it. See Figure 12.5.

Figure 12.5

NOTE: There are two rubber washers that fit

between the plenum and the frame.

12. Shift Interlock Arm Removal and Replacement

NOTE: If the shift lock-out arm is being removed

in conjunction with other service to the brakes and related linkages, the plenum removal

instructions may be redundant.

12.1. Lift and secure the bed.

12.2. Fold both seats forward.

12.6. Remove the hairpin clip and flat washer that hold the ferrule into the lockout arm.

12.7. Push the ferrule down to release it from the lockout arm. See Figure 12.7.

Interlock Arm

Ferrule

Shift Rod

Clevis Pin

12.8. Remove the hairpin clip, flat washer, and clevis pin that connect the clevis on the shift rod to the shift arm on the transmission.

Clevis

Figure 12.7

12.3. Loosen the hose clamp at the plenum end of the hose that connects the plenum to the air filter.

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Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages

12.9. Remove the nut from the shoulder bolt that the lock-out arm pivots on using a 9/16” wrench and a ¾” wrench. See Figure 12.9.

Figure 12.9

12.10. Lift-up and pivot the arm to release the spring that maintains tension between the lock-out arm and the clutch pulley brake arm.

12.15. Hook the spring through the hole in the interlock arm, and stretch the spring to allow the shoulder bolt to reach the slot in the bracket. See Figure 12.15.

Hook-up spring

Figure 12.15

NOTE: The end of the spring that hooks inward

connects to the lock-out arm.

12.11. Remove the interlock arm from the vehicle.

12.12. Inspect the arm and replace the bushings. See Figure 12.12.

Shoulder Bolt

Heavy Flat Washer

Bushings

Bellville Washer

Center-locking Nut

Figure 12.12

12.13. Lubricate the shoulder bolt with dry PTFE-based lubricant and insert it through the heavy flat washer, the arm and the bushings.

12.14. Position the bellville washer over the slot in the bracket that the lock-out arm mounts to.

12.16. Insert the shoulder bolt through the belleville washer and the bracket, securing it with the center lock flange nut.

12.17. Install the clevis pin through the transmission shift arm.

12.18. Position the lockout arm so that the clevis pin that connects the shift link to the shift arm is centered in the appropriate notch in each of the three positions. See Figure 12.18.

Transmission Shift Arm

Clevis Pin

Reverse

Neutral

Test Fit: Pin Centered in notch

Figure 12.18

Forward

2 - 16

Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages

NOTE: The mounting hole is slotted to allow

adjustment.

NOTE: If the lock-out link forces the shift arm to one side or the other it will apply a constant load to the shift collar inside the transmission, reducing service life.

NOTE: If the lock-out link is disabled it is possible to shift from one motion gear to the opposite while the Big Country is in motion. This will cause immediate and severe damage to the transmission. Repair of damage caused by an intentionally disabled interlock is not warrantable.

12.19. Lock the shoulder bolt in place by tightening the nut. Use a 9/16” wrench and a ¾” wrench.

13. Clutch Pulley Brake Arm Removal and Replacement

13.1. Remove the belt guard using the procedure described in the “Belt Removal” section of this manual.

13.2. Remove the hairpin clip and flat washer that hold the ferrule on the clutch pulley brake and shift interlock cable into the interlock arm.

13.3. Push the ferrule down to release it from the lockout arm.

13.4. Unhook the spring that connects the clutch pulley brake arm to the cable.

13.5. Remove the hairpin clip, flat washer, and clevis pin that connect the clevis on the shift rod to the transmission lever. See Figure 13.5.

12.20. Insert the clevis pin through the clevis on the end of the shift rod, and through the shift arm.

12.21. Secure the clevis pin with a hairpin clip and flat washer.

12.22. Insert the pin of the ferrule (threaded onto the cable end) through the hole in the interlock arm and secure it with a flat washer and hairpin clip.

12.23. Install the plenum by reversing the steps used to remove it.

NOTES

Spacer

Shift Rod Clevis

Interlock Arm

Figure 13.5

NOTE: This will relieve tension on the return

spring that connects the lock-out arm with the clutch pulley brake arm.

13.6. Remove the nut, bolt, flat washer and spacer that hold the top to the interlock bracket to the transmission using two 9/16” wrenches.

Interlock Bracket

Ferrule

13.7. Remove the nut and bolt that hold the bottom of the interlock bracket to the transmission using two 9/16” wrenches.

13.8. Maneuver the interlock assembly out from between the transmission and the frame crossmember, and remove it from the Big Country.

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Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages

13.9. On the bench, remove the nut from the shoulder bolt that the clutch pulley brake arm pivots on using a 9/16” wrench and a ¾” wrench. See Figure 13.9.

Brake Arm

Shoulder Bolt

Figure 13.9

13.10. Pull the brake arm off of the interlock bracket, and unhook the spring that connects it to the interlock arm

13.11. Pry the bushings out of the hole that the shoulder bolt passes through. See Figure 13.11.

13.13. To install the clutch pulley brake arm, hook the return spring through the hole in the interlock arm, and position the brake arm on the bracket.

NOTE: The end of the spring that hooks outward connects to the clutch pulley brake arm.

13.14. lubricate the shoulder of the bolt with dry PTFE or graphite based lubricant and insert it through the heavy flat washer, the arm and the bushings.

13.15. Install the nut on the shoulder bolt.

13.16. Position the interlock assembly in the Big Country and secure it with the lower nut and bolt, installed finger tight.

13.17. Install the spacer, bolt, washer, and nut in the upper mounting holes in the bracket and transmission.

13.18. Install the clevis pin through the yoke on the shift link and the transmission shift arm and secure it with a flat washer and hairpin clip.

13.19. Insert the pin on the ferrule through the hole in the lock-out link and secure it with a flat washer and a hairpin clip.

13.20. Check the adjustment and operation of the clutch pulley brake and shift interlock. Refer to the “Shift Interlock and Clutch Pulley Brake Adjustment” section of this manual.

Bushings

Figure 13.11

13.12. Inspect the arm and bracket, and replace the bushings.

13.21. Install the belt guard and plenum by reversing the steps used to remove them.

NOTES

2 - 18

Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages

14. Belt Removal and Replacement

14.1. The Belt should be checked for wear every 40 hours.

This is a visual inspection, and does not

necessarily involve belt removal.

NOTE: The belt is the primary wear item in the drive system. If drive system performance begins to degrade, inspect or replace the belt.

NOTE: The driving clutch should engage the belt at 2,100 R.P.M. Check the engagement speed before and after changing the belt. If engagement speed is high before changing the belt, but remains high with the new belt, there may be an issue with the driving clutch.

NOTE: If drive system operation seems labored, or if the belt wears prematurely, insure that the brakes are not dragging.

14.2. To remove the belt, remove the belt guard using the following procedure:

• Lift and secure the bed.

• Fold both seats forward.

• Loosen the hose clamp at the plenum end of the hose that connects the plenum to the air filter.

• Remove the two bolts that fasten the plenum to the frame using a pair of 9/16” wrenches.

• Lift the plenum straight up, and remove it.

14.4. Roll the belt off of the driven clutch pulley. See Figure 14.4.

Driving Clutch Pulley

Driven Clutch Pulley

Figure 14.4

14.5. Turn the belt in-side-out.

NOTE: Clearance between the driving clutch pulley and the frame may be extremely tight. Turning the belt inside-out will help avoid scarring the belt during removal and installation.

14.6. Roll the belt off of the driving clutch pulley. See Figure 14.6.

NOTE: There are rubber flat washers between the plenum and the frame.

• Disconnect the barbed cable tie from the belt guard.

• Remove the two horizontal bolts that hold the belt guard to the frame using a ½” wrench.

• Remove the nuts from the bottom of the two vertical bolts that hold the belt guard to the frame, using a pair of ½” wrenches.

• Lift the belt guard straight up and removed it.

14.3. Remove the clutch pulley brake arm according to the instruction in the “Removal and Installation of the Clutch Pulley Brake Arm” section of this manual.

Engine Support

Frame

Figure 14.6

14.7. Inspect the clutch pulleys for signs of wear or damage.

14.8. Reverse the removal procedure to install the belt.

Driving Clutch

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Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages

15. Driven Clutch Pulley Removal and Replacement

15.1. Set the parking brake

15.2. Place the shift lever in forward gear.

15.3. Loosen the bolt that secures the driven clutch pulley to the input shaft of the transmission using a 17 mm wrench.

15.4. Remove the drive belt from the driven clutch pulley as described in the “Drive Belt Removal and Replacement” section of this manual. See Figure 15.4.

NOTES

16. Driving Clutch Pulley Removal and Replacement

16.1. If equipped with fixed chain guides, remove the upper chain guide using a 9/16” wrench as described in the “Chain Tension Adjustment” section of this manual.

16.2. If equipped with rotary chain tensioners, retract the tensioner and lock it into position with a pin, as described in the “Rotary Chain Tensioner” section of this manual.

Bolt (loosened)

Figure 15.4

15.5. Completely remove the bolt and flat washer that secure the driven clutch pulley to the input shaft of the transmission.

15.6. Slip the pulley off of the shaft.

15.7. To install the driven clutch pulley, reverse the removal procedure.

NOTE: Apply a small amount of anti-seize compound to the splines that drive of the driven clutch pulley prior to installing it on the Big Country.

NOTE: Apply Loctite 242 or an equivalent thread locking compound to the threads of the bolt that holds the pulley to the input shaft.

NOTE: Torque the bolt to 35-40 ft-lb.

Driven Clutch Pulley (belt removed)

16.3. Remove the belt as described in the “Belt Removal and Replacement” section of this manual.

16.4. Lock the driven clutch into position using a pry bar between the head of one of the bolts that holds the cover on the clutch and the washer under the head of the bolt that holds the clutch to the crankshaft. See Figure 16.4.

9/16” wrench

Pry Bar

Figure 16.4

16.5. Remove the bolt that holds the clutch to the crankshaft using a 9/16” wrench.

2 - 20

Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages

16.6. Slip the clutch off the end of the crankshaft. See Figure 16.6.

Figure 16.6

NOTE: It will be necessary to partially remove

the key that rides between the clutch and the crankshaft as the clutch is removed.

16.7. To install the driving clutch pulley on the Big Country, reverse the removal procedure.

NOTE: Apply a small amount of anti-seize compound to the bore of the driving clutch pulley prior to installing it on the Big Country.

NOTE: Apply Loctite 242 or an equivalent thread locking compound to the bolt that holds the pulley to the crankshaft.

NOTE: Torque the bolt to 20-30 ft-lb.

NOTES

17. Transmission Removal and Replacement

17.1. Remove the two bolts, flat washers, and rubber washers that secure the hood using a 9/16” wrench.

17.2. Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 7/16” wrench. See Figure 17.2.

Negative Battery Cable

Figure 17.2

17.3. Remove the driven clutch pulley as described in the “Driven Clutch Pulley Removal and Replacement” section of this manual.

17.4. Lift the Big Country and remove the wheels as described in the “Lifting the Big Country and Removing the Wheels” section of this manual.

17.5. Position a drain pan (minimum capacity: one gallon) under the transmission drain plug. See Figure 17.5.

2- 21

Transmission Drain Plug

Figure 17.5

Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages

17.6. Remove the drain plug from the transmission using a 17mm wrench and allow the transmission lubricant to drain.

NOTE: If the transmission is not being removed to perform an internal repair, it is not necessary to drain the fluid.

17.7. Replace the plug when the transmission has drained completely. Tighten it to a torque of 2236 ft-lbs using a 17 mm wrench.

17.8. Match mark and disconnect the choke cable using an 8 mm driver on the clamp screw.

17.9. Match mark and disconnect the throttle cable using an 8 mm driver on the clamp screw. See Figure 17.9.

Throttle Cable Clamp

Choke Cable

Mounting Clamps

17.13. Loosen the clamp bolt using a ½” wrench. See Figure 17.13.

Clamp Bolt

Shift Arm

Jam Nut

Transmission Lever

Transmission Safety Switch Connector

Figure 17.13

NOTE: The bolt hole in the transmission lever is

threaded. The clamp bolt does not pass through a groove in the shift arm, so it is not necessary to remove it completely.

17.14. Carefully lift the transmission lever off the shift arm and move the transmission lever and shift rod out of the way.

17.15. Remove the nut and bolt that hold the bottom of the bracket to the front of the transmission using

Throttle Cable

Figure 17.9

NOTE: Use a 7 mm driver and a 10 mm wrench

on the cable clamp.

17.10. Pull the choke and throttle cables out of the lifting eye on the bracket that the lock-out and clutch pulley brake arms mount to.

17.11. Unplug the transmission safety switch from the wiring harness. Lock tabs are on the short sides of the molded connector.

17.12. Loosen the jam nut on the clamp bolt that clamps the transmission lever to the shift arm using a ½” wrench.

two 9/16” wrenches. See Figure 17.15.

pper Mounting Bo

Lower Mounting Bolt

Figure 17.15

Spacer

Bracket

17.16. Remove the nut, bolt, and spacer tube that hold the bracket to the top of the transmission using two 9/16” wrenches.

2 - 22

Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages

17.17. Lift the bracket out as an assembly.

17.18. Remove the nut, bolt, and flat washer that hold the upper transmission support to the transmission using 9/16” wrenches. See Figure 17.18.

Bolts to

Bolt to Transmission

Upper Transmission Support

Figure 17.18

17.19. Use a 12 mm wrench to remove the bolts that hold the upper transmission support to the engine.

17.20. Slip the upper transmission support out from under the air intake shoulder and remove it.

17.21. Loosen the jam nuts that hold the differential lock cable to the differential lock bracket using a pair of 7/16” wrenches. See Figure 17.21.

Cylinder Head

17.24. Remove the bolt that holds cable clamp securing the wiring harness to the transmission using a 12 mm wrench.

17.25. Disconnect the top of each spring and shock assembly as described in the “Spring and Shock Assembly Removal and Replacement” section of this manual. See Figure 17.25.

Figure 17.25

17.26. Loosen the hose clamps on both hoses that lead to the air filter using a 5/16” driver.

17.27. Remove both hoses. See Figure 17.27.

Hose to Carburetor

Differential Lock Bracket

Differential Lock Cable

Jam Nuts

Harness Clamp

Figure 17.21

17.22. Slip the cable housing out of the bracket.

17.23. Slip the barrel on the end of the cable out of the hole in the differential lock arm.

Air Filter

Hose to Plenum

Figure 17.27

17.28. Cover the mouth of the carburetor to prevent foreign objects from entering the engine.

17.29. Remove the two nuts, bolts and washers that hold the air filter assembly to the air intake shoulder using two ½” wrench.

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Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages

17.30. Remove the air filter assembly.

17.31. Loosen the clamp bolts that hold the right universal joint onto the right out-put shaft of the transmission using two 9/16” wrenches. See Figure 17.31.

Clamp Bolts

Figure 17.31

17.32. If equipped with fixed chain guides, remove the upper chain guide using a 9/16” wrench.

NOTE: This will relieve tension from the chain.

17.33. If equipped with roller-style chain tensioners, lock the tensioners in the released position. Refer to the “Roller Chain Tensioner Removal and Replacement” section of this manual.

17.34. Remove the two nuts, bolts, and washers that the right axle assembly pivots on using two 15/16” wrenches. See Figure 17.34.

17.35. Remove the right drive axle assembly.

17.36. Slip the universal joint and sprocket off of the output shaft. See Figure 17.36.

Right Axle

Disconnecte

Disconnected

Figure 17.36

17.37. Repeat the steps used to disconnect the right side axle assembly and universal joint on the left side axle assembly and universal joint.

17.38. Unhook the rear of the left brake return spring.

17.39. Pivot the spring outward, then unhook it from the cam arm. See Figure 17.39.

Jam Nut

Brake Return Spring

Axle Pivot Bolts

Figure 17.34

17.40. Remove the rear jam nut from the left brake

17.41. Slide the rubber boot off the end of the left brake

2 - 24

Brake Cam Arm

Figure 17.39

cable using a ½” socket. It may be necessary to hold the cable with locking pliers or slip-joint pliers.

cable housing.

Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages

17.42. Loosen the jam nuts that hold the left brake cable to the bracket on the frame using two 7/8” wrenches.

17.43. Remove the rear jam nut and pull the cable housing forward so that the cable core will pass through the slot in the bracket.

17.44. Move the brake cable out of the way.

17.45. Repeat the steps used to disconnect the left side brake cable on the right side.

17.46. Remove the bolts that hold differential lock bracket using a 12 mm wrench, and remove the differential lock bracket and lever.

17.47. Loosen then remove the four transmission mounting bolts using a 24 mm wrench. See Figure 17.47.

17.49. Lift the transmission out of the Big Country. See Figure 17.49.

Mounting Ears

Figure 17.49

17.50. To install the transmission, reverse the removal procedure.

17.51. Check the adjustment of all linkages as they are reinstalled.

Mounting Bolts

Figure 17.47

NOTE: The transmission will rest securely on

the four mounting ears after the bolts are removed.

17.48. Insure that all linkages and the wiring harness are clear of the transmission.

17.52. Fill the transmission with 189 fl. oz. of universal (hydraulic) tractor transmission fluid if it has been drained.

18. Internal Transmission Service

18.1. Remove the transmission dipstick.

18.2. Use a 19mm wrench to remove the transmission safety switch .

18.3. Carefully pry vent valve out of the housing. See Figure 18.3.

Dipstick

Vent Valve

Safety Switch

2- 25

Figure 18.3

Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages

18.4. Using a 12mm socket wrench remove the ten bolts securing the left side brake cover to the transmission housing. The left side contains the transmission input shaft. See Figure 18.4.

Brake Cam Arm

Brake Cover

Dowel Pin Location

Figure 18.4

18.5. Using a hammer and a soft drift, gently tap on underside of cover until cover pops loose.

NOTE: Gently pry at dowel pin location to remove the cover, taking care not to damage the sealing surface of the cover and transmission housing.

NOTE: There are six steel balls under the left brake cover. Take care not to loose them.

18.6. Remove the six balls and the bearing shim washer. See Figure 18.6.

18.8. Remove the output shaft, three steel plates and two friction plates. See Figure 18.8.

Friction Plate

Steel Plate

Output

Shaft

Figure 18.8

18.9. Repeat steps 18.4 through 18.8 to remove the right side brake cover and right side brake.

18.10. Clean and inspect the brake cover for damage or wear, particularly around the bore for the brake cam arm.

18.11. Inspect the output shaft seals for any sign of wear or leakage.

18.12. Press the output shaft seals out if replacement is necessary.

18.13. Clean and inspect the output shaft bearings for tightness and smooth rotation.

Steel Ball (Six)

Shim Washer

Figure 18.6

18.7. Remove the bearing and the brake actuator.

Bearing

Brake

Actuator

18.14. Clean and inspect the steel plates and friction plates:

• Replace a steel plate if it has a scored surface.

• Replace a steel plate if it is warped beyond .010”.

• Replace a friction plate if it is worn to the point that the grooves in the surface are gone.

• replace a friction plate if the teeth on the inside diameter show significant wear or deformation. If a friction plate is replaced because of damaged teeth, carefully inspect the splines on the output shaft that those teeth were engaging.

2 - 26

Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages

18.15. Use a 12mm socket wrench to remove the sixteen perimeter bolts from the transmission housing.

NOTE: Support transmission so the transmission input shaft is not resting on the table.

18.16. Separate the transmission housings by using a pry bar at the reinforced pry points provided. See Figure 18.16.

Right Cover

Support

18.19. Lift and rotate the shift arm far enough to allow the shift block to be removed, then remove the shift block.

NOTE: If the shift block and shift collar show abnormal wear or discoloration, the shift rod or the shift interlock may be out of adjustment.

18.20. Lift the input shaft and reduction shaft and remove the chain from the sprockets. See Figure 18.20.

Chain

Differential

Input Shaft

Reduction

Shaft

Pry Points

Figure 18.16

18.17. Remove the right side housing.

18.18. Use a 12mm wrench to remove the bolt holding the shift arm to the housing. See Figure 18.18.

Shift Arm

Shift Collar

Bolt

Shift Block

Figure 18.18

Retainer Plate

Figure 18.20

NOTE: An accurate measurement of chain slack

is difficult to make. If the transmission has more than a thousand hours of use, or if the Big Country shows evidence of heavy usage, replacement of the chain is recommended.

NOTE: The most likely cause of chain breakage is shock loading in Reverse gear. If the chain is broken, insure that the shift interlock is working correctly before returning the unit to service.

NOTE: When the bearing on the bottom of the input shaft clears its bore in the housing, the input shaft can be leaned toward the reduction shaft, creating slack in the chain.

18.21. Remove the input shaft from the transmission.

18.22. Remove any shims from the bearing bore. Keep track of the shims.

NOTE: With the input shaft removed, the reduction shaft can be lifted and moved clear of the differential.

18.23. Remove the reduction shaft.

2- 27

Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages

18.24. Remove the differential and differential lock shaft as an assembly. See Figure 18.24.

Differential Assembly

Differential Lock Shaft

Differential Lock Fork

Differential Lock Slider

NOTE: Use of a three-jaw puller will assist in removing worn or damaged bearings.

18.29. Check the final gear for tooth wear.

18.30. Check the differential side gears for abnormal tooth wear and spline damage.

NOTE: The left and right side gears are different from one another, and are not interchangeable.

NOTE: If the splines are worn damage to the mating splines on the corresponding output shaft is likely.

Input Shaft Bearing Bore

Counter Shaft Bearing Bore

Figure 18.24

18.25. Inspect the differential lock shaft.

NOTE: The pin that fastens the fork to the shaft must be secure.

18.26. Using two 12mm wrenches remove the 10 bolts and nuts holding the final gear (ring gear) to the differential housing. See Figure 18.26.

NOTE: Match mark one side of the differential housing and the final drive gear.

Final Gear

Right Differential Housing

Left Differential

Housing

NOTE: If the teeth of any one gear within the differential are damaged, all teeth within the differential are likely to be damaged.

18.31. Check the differential pinion gears for abnormal tooth wear, damage to the pinion shaft bores and corresponding damage to the pinion shaft. See Figure 18.31.

Pinion Shaft

Flat

Side Gear

Pinion Gears

Thrust Washer

Soft Jawed Vise

Differential

Bearings

Figure 18.26

18.27. Disassemble, clean and inspect all differential components.

18.28. Check the bearings that carry the differential for looseness and smoothness of rotation.

Figure 18.31

2 - 28

Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages

18.32. Check the pins on the differential lock slider. See Figure 18.32.

Differential Housing

Differential Bearing

NOTE: Make certain side gear thrust washer is centered before tightening the fasteners that hold the differential housings and final gear together.

18.34. Apply thread locking compound such as Loctite 242 to the bolts that hold the differential housings and final gear together.

18.35. Tighten the nuts on the bolts, and torque the nuts to 225 to 260 in-lbs. in two steps using two 12mm wrenches.

18.36. Clean and inspect the reduction shaft assembly. See Figure 18.36.

Differential Lock Slider

Figure 18.32

NOTE: Bent or damaged pins on the differential

lock slider indicate that the differential lock is likely to have been engaged at speed. The Operator’s Manual specifies that the Big Country be stopped when the differential lock engagement lever is pulled-up by the operator. Damage to the differential lock slider pins generally constitutes abuse.

18.33. Lubricate all contact points with assembly lube or universal (hydraulic) tractor transmission fluid and put the differential together. See Figure 18.33.

Flat Indexes To F i na l Gear

Side Gear Thrust Washer

Snap Ring

NOTE: Check the profile of the teeth on the sprocket, particularly if the chain is to be replaced. If worn, the sprocket and shaft must be replaced.

NOTE: Check the bearings for tightness and smoothness of rotation. Use an appropriate puller to remove the bearings if necessary. The bearing nearest the gear is held on by a snap ring.

Splines

Sprocket

Bearings

Figure 18.36

Side Gear

NOTE: check the gear teeth and splines for abnormal wear.

Final Gear

Figure 18.33

2- 29

Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages

18.37. Clean and inspect the input shaft. See Figure 18.37.

Reverse Sprock et

Dogs

Shift Collar

Dogs

Forward Gear

Bearing

Spacer

Bearing

Intermediate Shaft Assembly

Input Shaft Assembly

Figure 18.37

NOTE: Check the bearings for looseness and

smoothness of rotation.

NOTE: Check the profile of the teeth on the sprocket, particularly if the chain is to be replaced. If worn, the sprocket and shaft must be replaced.

NOTE: Check the gear teeth and splines for abnormal wear.

18.41. Remove the differential lock shaft seal from the right transmission housing.

18.42. Thoroughly clean and inspect the transmission housings. Remove all traces of old sealant from the sealing surfaces. Remove all traces of old transmission fluid from the inside of the housings.

NOTE: The use of abrasive cleaning wheels is not recommended.

NOTE: Look for cracks, worn bores, stripped threads, damaged sealing surfaces. Minor damage can usually be repaired. Stripped threads may be repaired with inserts.

18.43. Install a new o-ring seal on the shift arm.

NOTE: Lubricate the seal with assembly lube or universal (hydraulic) tractor transmission fluid.

18.44. Install the new input shaft seal from the insideout.

18.45. Install the shift arm in the housing. See Figure 18.45.

Input Shaft Seal

NOTE: Check the condition of the engagement dogs on the sprocket, gear, and shift collar.

NOTE: If the engagement dogs are damaged, the shift rod or shift interlock mechanism may be out of adjustment.

NOTE: The gear and sprocket ride on caged needle bearings. If the needle bearings are worn the engagement dogs will not align properly. Difficult shifting and damage to the engagement dogs will result.

NOTE: A detent spring and ball reside in a bore in the input shaft. Make provision to capture them if the shift collar is removed from the input shaft.

18.38. Lubricate all contact points with assembly lube or universal (hydraulic) tractor transmission fluid, and assemble the input shaft using new components where required.

18.39. Remove the shift arm.

18.40. Remove the input shaft seal from the left transmission housing.

Shift Arm O Ring

Figure 18.45

2 - 30

Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages

18.46. Install the differential lock fork and shaft, as an assembly, back into the right transmission housing. See Figure 18.46.

Snap Ring

Washer

Differential Lock Shaft

Figure 18.46

NOTE: Make certain the washer is placed

between the transmission housing and the snap ring on the differential shaft.

18.49. Install the chain on the input shaft sprocket and reduction sprocket and install both shafts into t h e r i g h t s i d e c a s e a s a u n i t . S e e F i g u r e 1 8 . 4 9 .

Input Shaft Linked to Reduction Shaft

Figure 18.49

NOTE: It may be necessary to rotate the reduc-

tion shaft in order to engage the final gear on the differential. See Figure 18.49.

18.47. Install the differential assembly into the right transmission housing. See Figure 18.47.

Differential Lock Fork

Figure 18.47

NOTE: Engage the differential lock fork into the

differential slider as the differential goes in.

18.48. Seat differential bearing completely into its bore while pushing the differential shaft all the way into its bore.

Differential

Bearing

Differential

Assembly

Final Gear

Reduction Gear

Input Shaft

Figure 18.49

18.50. Before installing left housing onto the right housing, make certain the shim washer is on the input shaft bearing.

2- 31

Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages

18.51. Place a small amount of grease on the shift block and place it in the shift collar. See Figure 18.51.

Spacer

Input Shaft Bearing

Figure 18.51

18.52. Place a small bead of RTV silicone sealant on the mating surface of either transmission housing.

Shim Washer

Shift Collar

Shift

Block

18.56. Using an appropriate driver and seal protector, install the seal on the differential lock shaft.

18.57. Install the shift arm plate on the shift arm, and secure it with a bolt. Tighten the bolt to a torque of 203 - 260 in-lbs.

18.58. Proceed to brake assembly.

18.59. Press a new output shaft seal into each brake cover, and slide a new o-ring onto the brake cam arm. See Figure 18.59.

Shaft Seal

18.53. Gently place the left transmission housing on to the right transmission housing, making certain the gearshift lever engages the shift block. See Figure 18.53.

Shift Arm Engaging Shift Block

Shift Shaft

Figure 18.53

18.54. Completely seat the housings and install all the bolts.

18.55. Tighten the bolts in two steps, to a torque of 203 - 260 in-lbs in a criss-cross sequence using a 12mm. wrench.

Brake Cam O Ring

Figure 18.59

NOTE: Lubricate the o-ring with assembly lube

or universal (hydraulic) tractor transmission fluid prior to installation.

18.60. Beginning on the left side, install steel plate in to brake housing and alternate with friction disc until all five plate and disc are installed. See Figure 18.60.

Friction

Disc

Steel Plate

Figure 18.60

2 - 32

Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages

18.61. Install the brake shaft making certain the shaft has engaging the friction discs and the inner bearing.

18.62. Install the outer bearing and shim on the brake shaft.

18.63. Install the right side actuator plate and place all six steel balls in their respective ramp and pockets. Thoroughly lubricate all six balls. See Figure 18.63.

Actuator

Shim

18.66. When installing the brake cover lower the cover and rotate until brake actuator arm touches the actuator plate and enters its opposing support bore. At that point the actuator balls will enter their individual pockets. Tapping lightly with a hammer handle will assist in seating the cover plate to the brake housing.

18.67. Torque bolts to 225 - 260 inch pounds using a cross pattern and two step technique using a 12mm socket wrench.

NOTE: To assist in assembly of right side brake place transmission on two 4 X 4 blocks.

18.68. Install the right side brake assembly following the same steps, 18.59 through 18.67. See Figure 18.68.

Ball

Bearing

Figure 18.63

18.64. Apply sealant to the surface where the transmission case meets the brake cover.

18.65. Using a seal protector install the brake cover on to transmission housing and bolt in place. See Figure 18.65.

Seal Protector

Right Side Brake Assembled

Figure 18.68

18.69. The transmission may now be installed on the engine transmission support assembly.

NOTE: Allow the transmission case sealant to cure before filling unit with universal (hydraulic) tractor transmission fluid.

NOTE: Apply Loctite 242 or a similar thread locking compound to the transmission mounting bolts, and tighten them to a torque of 125-147 ftlbs.

Figure 18.65

Sealant

2- 33

Section 2: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages

19. Torque Table: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages

Location Inch-Lbs Foot-lbs

Driven Clutch Pulley

Driving Clutch Pulley

TransmissionMounting Bolts

Universal Joint

420-480 ftlbs

240-360 in-lbs

35-40 ft-lbs

20-30 ft-lbs

125-147 ft-lbs

48-58 ft-lbs

Clamp Bolts

Upper Trans-

48-58 ft-lbs mission Support (at transmission)

Fill and Drain Plug

260-430 in-lbs

22-36 ft-lbs

NOTES

Brake Cover 203-260

in-lbs

Nuetral Safety Switch

Transmission Housing

Differential Housing

260-430 in-lbs

203-260 in-lbs

225-260 in-lbs

Shift Arm Plate 203-260

in-lbs

17-22 ft-lbs

22-36 ft-lbs

19-22 ft-lbs

22-36 ft-lbs

2 - 34

Section 3: Drive Axle Service

1. Lifting the Big Country and Removing the Drive Axle Wheels

1.1. Park the Big Country on firm, level ground.

1.2. Raise the bed if service is to be performed in the engine compartment.

1.3. Turn the key to the off position, and remove it from the key switch.

1.4. Set the parking brake.

1.5. Place the gearshift in “Neutral”.

1.6. Chock the front wheels.

1.7. Loosen the lug bolts on the axle or axles to be serviced using a 5/8” socket.

1.8. Safely lift and secure the Big Country. See Figure 1.8.

Full Length Frame Channels (Structure)

1.9. Release the parking brake.

NOTE: The center of gravity is roughly even with the front mounting point of the front drive axle. Keep the jacking point behind the front drive axle to avoid instability. See Figure 1.9.

Jack stands from this point back

Center of Gravity (Unstable Lifting Point)

Figure 1.9

Receiver

(Structure)

Engine Support assembly

Figure 1.8

CAUTION: Standard hydraulic jacks are lifting

devices only. They should not be used to hold a vehicle in the air, only to raise it long enough to position or jack stands under it.

CAUTION: Vehicles should be lifted only on ground that is firm and level.

NOTE: Any structural area at the rear of the Big Country can be used as a jacking point. Do not lift the rear of the Big Country by the engine support assembly.

1.10. If the chain is to be removed, lift the bed and rotate the wheels to a point where the master link is easily accessible. See Figure 1.10.

Master Link

Figure 1.10

1.11. Remove the lug bolts and wheel.

3 - 1

Section 3: Drive Axle Service

1.12. To install the wheel, lift it onto the hub. It will rest on the center boss of the mounting flange. The valve stem must face out.

1.13. Rotate the wheel to align the holes in the wheel with the holes in the mounting flange.

1.14. Insert one lug bolt through the wheel into the mounting flange, and thread it into the mounting flange finger tight.

1.15. Install the remaining four lug bolts.

1.16. Set the parking brake.

1.17. Lower the Big Country to the ground.

1.18. Tighten the lug bolts to a torque of 75 ft-lb.

NOTE: The tightness of the drive wheels should be checked after 2 hours of operation, and again after 10 hours of operation following wheel removal.

2. Chain Lubrication

3. Chain Retention

If the chain ret ention is an issue:

3.1. Check chain tension: Adjust the tension on the chain according to the instructions given in “Chain Tension Adjustment”.

NOTE: If these procedures will not bring chain tension into the specified range, the chain, chain guides, and sprockets may be worn beyond serviceable limits.

3.2. Make a visual inspection of the guides and sprockets will determine if they are worn.

3.3. Remove the chain as described in the “Chain Removal and Replacement” section of this manual.

3.4. Measure the arc of the chain to determine the amount of wear that has occurred. Place the chain on a clean flat surface and bow it laterally. See Figure 3.4.

New Chain

NOTE: The chains are relatively large (#60) for this application, making them quite durable. The design of the Big Country makes it well suited to use in conditions that require the traction advantages of four-wheel-drive. These conditions are often dirty and abrasive.

NOTE: Traditional chain lubricants are made to cling to the links. Chain lubricants also attract and retain particulate matter when used in an abrasive environment. This grit will act as grinding compound as it circulates, wearing the chains, chain guides, and sprockets.

• In abrasive environments, dry graphite or PTFEbased lubricants are best.

• If operating conditions merit conventional chain lubricant, use a lubricant specifically manufactured for chains. Follow the lubricant manufacturers application instructions.

• Other lubricants such as motor oil or automatic transmission fluid will be thrown off of the chain. If thrown chain lubricant reaches the drive belt, the belt will slip.

Worn Chain

63”

NOTE: The chain is considered worn-out when, with the half-link removed (49 links) the distance between the outermost points of the end links is less than 63”.

3.5. On units equipped with roller-type chain tensioners, the chain is considered worn-out if the halflink has been removed but the tensioners have insufficient travel to maintain tension on the chain.

63”

Figure 3.4

3 - 2

Section 3: Drive Axle Service

NOTE: There are index marks on each chain

tensioner that may be used to check the amount of available travel. See Figure 3.5.

Index Marks

Chain Tensioners

Figure 3.5

3.6. Check for a mis-aligned axle assembly, perform the following steps:

3.7. Lift and support the vehicle, according to the directions in “Lifting the Big Country and Removing the Wheels”.

3.8. Place a straight edge between the two flanges at the ends of adjacent rear axles. See Figure 3.8.

Wheel Mounting flanges

NOTE: Allowable mis-alignment is 1/8”. Allowable flange run-out is .020”.

NOTE: Conditions that can cause an axle assembly to become mis-aligned include: Collision damage to the frame, collision damage to the axle assembly, worn axle bearings, worn bushings at the pivot point of the axle assembly, or loose fasteners at the pivot point of the axle assembly.

3.10. Check the condition of the shock and spring

units.

NOTE: A worn-out or broken spring and shock

absorber assembly may cause the chain to come off. If one axle is bouncing unrestrained, while the axle at the other end of the chain is held relatively steady, large angles will occur between the two sprockets at a high frequency.

3.11. Check the condition of the axle splines.

3.12. Rocking the sprocket on the axle splines will provide a good indication of the amount of wear that has occurred.

3.13. If movement of the sprocket on the axle spline is excessive, remove the suspect sprocket so that the splines may be inspected. Refer to the “Front Drive Sprocket Removal and Replacement” and “Rear Drive Axle Removal and Replacement” sections of this manual.

NOTE: Severely worn axle splines will allow the sprockets to shift angles in relation to load. The change in angles between the sprockets will cause problems with chain retention.

Straight Edge

Checking axle alignment

Figure 3.8

3.9. Rotate the axles individually in 90 degree increments and re-check at each position to discriminate between run-out of the flanges and axles that are out of alignment.

3.14. Inspect the universal joints.

NOTE: Severely worn or improperly installed universal joints will allow the sprockets to shift angles under load. The change in angles between the sprockets will cause problems with chain retention.

3.15. Inspect the sprockets.

NOTE: A broken weld on a sprocket will cause the sprockets to shift angles in relation to load.

3 - 3

Section 3: Drive Axle Service

4. Chain Tension Adjustment (Early units Equipped With Fixed Chain Guides)

NOTE: Chains are used to transfer power from

each of the front drive axles to the rear drive axles. The chains are set tight from the factory, and will not reach normal operating length and tension until the Big Country has been used.

NOTE: Early production Big Country vehicles used adjustable lower chain guides to set chain tension. Current production units use spring loaded rotary arm tensioners with delrin rollers. Refer to the section of this manual that covers the applicable style of tensioner when servicing the drive chains.

NOTE: The chain tension should be checked, and adjusted if necessary every ten hours of operation. When used in heavy load or abrasive conditions they should be checked more frequently. When used in light load conditions several ten-hour intervals may pass before a chain adjustment is needed.

NOTE: Each time the chain tension is checked, the chain guides and sprockets should be given a visual inspection.

4.1. Lift and support the vehicle, according to the directions in “Lifting the Big Country and Removing the Wheels”.

4.2. Lift the bed.

4.5. Use a spring scale to apply a 5 lb. load to longest span in the chain between the sprocket and the chain guide, at the top of the chain. The chain should deflect between ½” and 1” at this point. See Figure 4.5.

5 lb. Pull

1/2” to 1” Deflection

Figure 4.5

4.6. If chain adjustment is necessary, use a 9/16” wrench to remove the two bolts that hold the lower chain guide to the frame.

4.7. Lift the chain guide up to the highest set of holes that can be reached without applying force to the chain. See Figure 4.7.

4.3. Allow the engine to cool if it has been run recently.

4.4. Rotate the drive wheels toward each other, so that the slack in the chain falls between the top of the two sprockets. See Figure 4.4.

Right Chain

Rotate

Chain Guides

Wheels

Left Chain

Figure 4.4

Threaded Adjustment Holes

Mounting Bolts

Lower Chain Guide

Figure 4.7

4.8. Install the bolts through the chain guide, and tighten them using a 9/16” wrench.

3 - 4

Section 3: Drive Axle Service

4.9. If the travel of the chain guide is not sufficient to reach the specified chain tension, the half-link adjacent to the master link can be removed to shorten the chain. See Figure 4.9.

Master Link

Half Link

Figure 4.9

4.10. Repeat the inspection and adjustment on the opposite side of the Big Country.

5. Chain Guide Removal and Replacement (Early Production Units Equipped With Fixed Chain Guides)

NOTE: Each chain guide fits over a bracket that

allows it to move from side to side. This play allows the chain to move as the suspension travels up and down.

5.1. To remove the chain guide, remove the two bolts that hold the bracket to the frame using a 9/16” wrench. See Figure 5.1.

5.2. Lower the bracket far enough for the chain guide to clear the chain, then remove the chain guide. See Figure 5.2.

Chain guide fits beneath chain

Figure 5.2

NOTE: When installing a chain guide, the nuts

on the bolts that hold the polymer block into the steel channel of the guide face the frame of the Big Country. See Figure 5.3

Bracket

Steel Channel

Bolts

Mounting Bolts

Chain Guide

Chain Guide bracket

Figure 5.1

Polymer Block

Figure 5.3

NOTE: The chain guides and chain guide brackets are interchangeable left to right and top to bottom.

5.3. To install a chain guide, slip it into position from beneath the chain then install the two bolts that secure it to the frame using a 9/16” wrench.

NOTE: If a lower chain guide is being installed the chain tension will be set by the position it is installed in.

3 - 5

Section 3: Drive Axle Service

6. Chain Removal and Replacement (Early Units Equipped With Fixed Chain Guides)

6.1. Lift and support the Big Country as described in the “Lifting the Big Country and Removing the Drive Axle Wheels” section of this manual.

NOTE: It is not necessary to remove the wheels if the chain is the only item to be serviced.

6.2. Rotate the wheels to bring the master link to a point where it can be easily reached.

6.3. Disconnect the master link of the drive chain on the side to be serviced. Use a screwdriver or a set of slip joint pliers and a screwdriver.

6.4. Pull the chain out of the Big Country.

6.5. Install the master link on the end of the removed chain to prevent loss.

6.6. To install the chain, lay it out in a straight line, on a clean surface, ahead of the front drive axle. See Figure 6.6.

Front Drive Axle

Sprocket

6.8. Route the chain beneath the front drive axle assembly, and over the lower chain guide toward the rear sprocket. See Figure 6.8.

Lower Chain guide

Front Drive sprocket

Figure 6.8

6.9. Reaching in through the opening at the back of the Big Country, wrap the chain around the rear sprocket, and rotate the wheel forward to draw the chain up. See Figure 6.9.

Chain

Figure 6.6

6.7. Draw it up through the opening directly below the front drive sprocket.

Muffler

Rotate wheel to feed chain

Rear Sprocket

Figure 6.9

CAUTION: Do not get your fingers between the

chain and the sprocket.

6.10. Pull the chain forward, over the upper chain guide. Leave about 1’ of chain hanging below the front sprocket.

3 - 6

Section 3: Drive Axle Service

6.11. Wrap the front end of the chain around the front sprocket. The end of the chain should be near the top of the sprocket. See Figure 6.11.

Connect Chain Ends

Figure 6.11

6.12. Join the two ends of the chain with the master link. The clip should be installed so that the round (closed) end leads when the Big country is traveling forward. See Figure 6.12.

7. Chain and Tensioner Removal and Replacement (Units Equipped With Roller Tensioners)

NOTE: Two locking pins are necessary for ser-

vicing the chain tensioners and chain. They can be easily made by cutting 1/4” steel round stock into two 4 1/2” lengths. See Figure 7.0.

Chain Tensioner Locking Pin (make or purchase locally)

Figure 7.0

Direction of Travel

Closed End

Master Link Clip

Figure 6.12

NOTE: Chain stretchers are commercially avail-

able, and may make chain installation on the Big Country easier, but should not be necessary.

Open End

7.1. Lift and support the vehicle, according to the directions in “Lifting the Big Country and Removing the Drive Wheels”.

7.2. Allow the engine to cool if it has been running.

7.3. Locate the access holes. See Figure 7.3.

Chain Tensioner Access Holes

Mounting Bolts

Figure 7.3

3 - 7

Section 3: Drive Axle Service

7.4. Push the upper tensioner roller down to relieve tension from the chain and lock it in position using a 1/4” steel dowel pin. See Figure 7.4.

Roller

Locking Pin

Upper Chain Tensioner Lower Chain Tensioner

Figure 7.4

NOTE: Both tensioners can be locked in this

fashion for chain removal.

7.5. If working on the right side of the Big Country, loosen the hose clamps and remove both hoses from the air filter using a screwdriver or a 5/16” driver. See Figure 7.5.

7.7. Unbolt the air filter bracket from the air intake shoulder using a 13mm wrench, and remove the air filter. See Figure 7.7.

Air Filter Bracket

Bolts

Figure 7.7

7.8. Remove the bolt from the delrin roller from the tensioner using a 3/4” socket wrench. See Figure 7.8.

Bolt (Recessed in Roller)

Air Intake Shoulder

Air Filter

Hose From Plenum To A ir F il t e r

7.6. Cover the carburetor to prevent foreign objects

Hose To Carburetor.

Hose Clamps

Figure 7.5

NOTE: If working on the left side of the Big

Country, the muffler may be left in place.

from entering the engine.

Figure 7.8

3 - 8

Section 3: Drive Axle Service

7.9. Remove the roller and flat washers along with the bolt. See Figure 7.9.

Shoulder Bolt

Flat Washer

7.10. Push down on the tensioner arm to relieve the load from the 1/4” pin, withdraw the pin, and carefully release the tensioner arm. See Figure 7.10.

Roller

Figure 7.9

7.12. Mark the hole that the smaller indexing bolt goes through, and remove the indexing bolt using a 3/8” wrench. See Figure 7.12.

Paint Mark

Locking Pin Hole

7.13. Remove the mounting bolt and lift the tensioner out of the vehicle. See Figure 7.13.

Indexing Bolt Hole (Threaded)

Mounting Bolt

Figure 7.12

Holes for Locking Pin

Figure 7.10

7.11. Working through the access hole loosen the large bolt at the center of the chain tensioner using a 9/16” wrench.

NOTE: It may be necessary to hold the nut on the inside of the Tensioner using a 7/8” wrench.

Roller Mounting Hole

Locking Pin Hole

Indexing Bolt Hole

Figure 7.13

NOTE: It is necessary to disconnect the chain

before the lower tensioner can be removed.

7.14. Push the lower chain tensioner arm down to relieve tension from the chain and lock the lower arm using a 1/4” steel dowel pin.

Index Marks

3 - 9

Section 3: Drive Axle Service

7.15. Disconnect the master link of the chain using a pair of needle-nose pliers. See Figure 7.15.

Upper Run of Chain

Lower Chain Tensioner

Chain Disconnected

Figure 7.15

NOTE: If the chain is to be removed, it can be

pulled-out at this point.

7.16. Remove the locking pin, and slowly release the lower chain tensioner.

7.17. Loosen the center mounting bolt on the lower chain tensioner using a 9/16” wrench.

NOTE: It may be necessary to hold the nut on the inside of the chain tensioner using a 7/8” wrench.

7.18. Mark the location of the bolt hole that the indexing bolt on the lower chain tensioner goes through, and remove the bolt using a 3/8” wrench.

7.19. Remove the center mounting bolt and lift the tensioner out of the Big Country.

7.20. To Install the chain and tensioners, begin by installing the roller on the lower chain tensioner if it has been removed.

NOTE: Apply white lithium grease to the shoulder of the bolt.

NOTE: Apply Loctite 242 or an equivalent thread locking compound to the threads in the tensioner.

NOTE: Assemble the bolt, flat washers and roller to the tensioner arm.

7.21. Apply Loctite 242 or an equivalent thread locking compound to the mounting bolt and the indexing bolt for the lower chain tensioner.

7.22. Position the lower chain tensioner in the frame of the Big Country, and install the mounting bolt finger-tight.

7.23. Align the indexing bolt hole in the tensioner with the marked indexing hole in the frame.

7.24. Install the indexing bolt and tighten it to a torque of 110-120 inch-lbs using a 3/8” socket.

7.25. Tighten the mounting bolt to a torque of 4555 ft-lbs using a 9/16” socket.

NOTE: It may be necessary to hold the inside nut using a 7/8” wrench.

7.26. Lift the roller (tensioner arm) up until the locking hole in the arm aligns with the locking hole in the frame, and insert the 1/4” steel locking pin to hold it in place.

7.27. Apply Loctite 242 or an equivalent thread locking compound to the mounting bolt and the indexing bolt for the upper chain tensioner.

7.28. Position the upper chain tensioner in the frame of the Big Country, and install the mounting bolt finger-tight.

7.29. Align the indexing bolt hole in the tensioner with the marked indexing hole in the frame.

7.30. Install the indexing bolt and tighten it to a torque of 110-120 inch-lbs using a 3/8” socket.

7.31. Tighten the mounting bolt to a torque of 4555 ft-lbs using a 9/16” socket.

NOTE: It may be necessary to hold the inside nut using a 7/8” wrench.

7.32. Install the roller on the upper chain tensioner if it has been removed.

NOTE: Apply white lithium grease to the shoulder of the bolt.

NOTE: Apply Loctite 242 or an equivalent thread locking compound to the threads in the tensioner.

NOTE: Assemble the bolt, flat washers and roller to the tensioner arm.

7.33. Torque the bolt to 45-55 ft-lbs.

NOTE: Hold the tensioner arm in a soft jawed vice, and torque the bolt to 45-55 ft-lbs.

3 - 10

Section 3: Drive Axle Service

7.34. Push the upper tensioner arm down until the locking hole in the arm aligns with the locking hole in the frame, and insert the 1/4” steel locking pin to hold it in place. See Figure 7.34.

Indexing Bolts

Mounting Bolts

Locking Pins

Figure 7.34

7.35. Install the chain as described in the “Chain Removal and Replacement” section of this manual.

8. Spring and Shock Assembly Removal and Replacement

8.1. Perform the steps described in the “Lifting Big Country and Removing Tires” section of this manual.

NOTE: If a spring and shock assembly is being removed so that an axle assembly that does not require service can be removed, it is not necessary to disconnect the bottom of the spring and shock unit. It may be left connected to the axle assembly, and be removed along with it. An example of this situation would be if the axle must be removed to provide clearance to remove a transmission that needs service.

NOTE: If a spring and shock assembly is to be removed from a rear drive axle, it is necessary to disconnect the prop rod that holds the bed in the raised position (manual bed lift) or disconnect the lift motor from the bed (electric lift).

8.2. To disconnect the prop rod from the bracket that holds it to the frame, loosen the socket head cap screw at the front of the bracket three turns using a 3/16” allen wrench. See Figure 8.2.

NOTE: Chain tensioners will be found in place of

chain guides, but the procedure is otherwise identical.

7.36. Press down on the lower chain tensioner arm, withdraw the lock pin, and carefully release the tensioner.

7.37. Press down on the upper chain tensioner arm, withdraw the lock pin, and carefully release the tensioner.

7.38. Position the air filter on the air intake shoulder, and secure it there with the two bolts and washers previously removed.

7.39. Tighten the bolts using two 1/2” wrenches.

7.40. Remove the cover from the carburetor, and install the hoses between the air filter, plenum, and carburetor.

7.41. Tighten the hose clamps using a straight blade screwdriver or a 5/16 driver.

NOTE: The hose that connects to the air horn of the carburetor must be fully seated, and should not come in contact with the bed when the bed is in the lowered position.

Prop Rod Bracket

Prop Rod

Figure 8.2

8.3. Remove the socket head cap screw at the rear of the bracket using a 3/16” allen wrench.

8.4. Position an auxiliary prop rod (a length of 2 X 4 lumber will do), or a safety strap to prevent the bed from lowering unexpectedly.

7.42. Lower the bed, place the Big country on the ground, and test the operation of the vehicle.

3 - 11

Section 3: Drive Axle Service

8.5. Lift the prop rod to allow the “T” slot in the prop rod to clear the pin on the bracket. See Figure 8.5.

Rear Screw Removed

Figure 8.5

8.6. Angle the bracket up at the back to allow the stop tab on the prop rod to clear the bracket as the bed is lifted. See Figure 8.6.

8.11. Remove the hairpin clip that secures the clevis pin connecting the lift motor to the bed. See Figure 8.11.

Hairpin Clip

Clevis Pin

Figure 8.11

8.12. Remove the pin, tilt the bed as near to vertical as possible, and secure it there in a safe fashion.

NOTE: The shock and spring assemblies used on all four of the drive axles are mounted in compression. Improper removal can cause injuries.

Bracket Pivots on Front Screw

Figure 8.6

8.7. Tilt the bed as near to vertical as possible, and secure it there in a safe fashion.

8.8. If so equipped, disconnect the lift motor from the bed using the following steps:

8.9. Raise the bed fully using the electric bed lift.

8.10. Position an auxiliary prop rod (a length of 2 X 4 lumber will do), or a safety strap to prevent the bed from lowering unexpectedly.

8.13. Remove the nut from the top shock mounting bolt using a pair of 17 mm wrenches, but do not attempt to remove the bolt at this time.

8.14. Position the spring compressor tool (Part Number: 703-05103) on the upper mount. Keep a 1 3/8” length of 3/8” s teel round stock within reach. See Figure 8.14.

Square Hole in Upper Mount for Shock and Spring Unit

Figure 8.14

Spring Compressor

3 - 12

Section 3: Drive Axle Service

8.15. Pull out and down on the lever to compress the spring. While the spring is compressed, remove the bolt, washer, and spacers by pushing the bolt out with a dowel pin. See Figure 8.15.

Pull

Displace Bolt With Pin

Figure 8.15

8.16. Slowly release the tool, allowing the spring to extend gently.

NOTE: When the spring compressor is released, the dowel pin will hold the spacers in position.

8.17. Remove the spacers and dowel pin from the top of the spring and shock assembly.

8.18. Remove the nut from the bottom shock absorber mounting bolt using a pair of 17 mm wrenches, and remove the bolt.

8.19. To install the spring and shock assembly, mount the spring and shock assembly first by the bottom bolt only.

8.20. With the spring and shock assembly leaning against the top mount, tighten the nut and bolt that secure the bottom of the spring and shock assembly to the frame using two 17mm wrenches.

8.25. Pull out and down on the tool to compress the spring. While the spring is compressed, push the bolt through the top mounting eye of the spring and shock assembly. See Figure 8.25.

3/8” X 1 3/8” Dowel Pin

Figure 8.25

NOTE: The bolt will displace the dowel pin.

8.26. With the bolt pushed far enough through the top mounting eye to trap the second spacer, position the second spacer and push the bolt completely through the spacer and mounting bracket.

8.27. Install the nut on the top spring and shock assembly mounting bolt, and tighten the nuts on the upper and lower mounting bolts to a torque of 48-58 ft-lb. using two17 mm wrenches.

9. Front Drive Axle Removal and Replacement

9.1. Lift and support the Big Country, and remove the wheel, following the instructions given in the “Lifting the Big Country and Removing the Drive Wheels” section of this manual.

9.2. Remove the drive chain, following the instructions given in the “Chain Removal and Replacement” section of this manual.

8.21. Position the spring compressor tool (Part Number:703-05103) on the upper mount.

8.22. Insert the dowel pin through the upper mount of the spring and shock assembly.

8.23. Place the spacers on the dowel pin.

NOTE: A small quantity of grease may be used to “stick” the spacers to the dowel.

8.24. Insert the upper mounting bolt, with the washer on it, through the first hole in the frame bracket.

9.3. Remove the spring and shock assembly from the axle assembly that is to be removed, following the instructions given in the “Spring and Shock Assembly Removal and Replacement” section of this manual.

NOTE: If the axle assembly is being removed in order to replace a drive sprocket or to repair or replace a universal joint, loosen and remove the six bolts and lock washers that hold the sprocket to the flange on the Universal joint.

3 - 13

Section 3: Drive Axle Service

NOTE: Set and release the parking brake as

necessary to reach and loosen each bolt.

9.14. Remove the nuts from the vertical bolts that hold the belt guard to the cross member behind the seats using a pair of ½” wrenches.

9.4. Tilt both seats forward.

9.5. Loosen the hose clamps that secure the hose between the plenum behind the seats and the inlet port on the air filter assembly using a screwdriver or a 5/16” driver. See Figure 9.5.

Plenum

Hose Clamps

Air Filter

Figure 9.5

9.6. Remove the hose.

9.7. Remove the nuts from the two bolts that attach the plenum to the frame using a deep 9/16” socket and a 9/16” wrench.

Belt Guard

Horizontal Bolts

Vertical Bolts

Rubber Washers

Figure 9.14

9.15. Lift the bolts out of the frame and belt guard, then remove the belt guard.

NOTE: If the right front drive axle is to be removed, the air filter assembly must be removed to reach the bolts that the axle assembly pivots on.

9.16. Loosen the hose clamps that hold the hose from the carburetor to the air filter assembly using a 5/16” driver. See Figure 9.16.

9.8. Remove the bolts and steel flat washers from the front of the plenum.

9.9. Remove the barbed cable tie that holds the fuel tank vent tube to the plenum.

9.10. Lift the plenum straight up, and remove it.

NOTE: There are rubber washers separating the plenum from the frame at each of the bolt holes.

9.11. If the left front drive axle is to be removed, the belt guard must be removed to provide “swing room” for wrenches.

9.12. Disconnect the barbed cable tie from the belt guard using a pair of diagonal cutting pliers.

9.13. Remove the two horizontal bolts holding the belt guard to the cross member behind the seats using a ½” wrench.

Air Filter Mounting Bolts

Bale Clips

Figure 9.16

9.17. Remove the hose and cover the carburetor to prevent foreign objects from entering the engine.

3 - 14

Hose Clamps

Section 3: Drive Axle Service

9.18. Release the bale clips that hold the cover on the air filter, and pull the cover off.

9.19. Remove pinch bolts that hold the air filter assembly to the air intake shoulder using a 13mm wrench.

9.20. Remove the two nuts, washers and bolts that the axle assembly pivots on, using two 15/16” wrenches. See Figure 9.20.

Frame

Bolt

Washers

Nuts

Axle Assembly

Figure 9.20

Bolt

9.22. Examine the rubber travel stops while the axle assembly is out.

NOTE: The travel stops can be replaced without removing the axle assembly, but they are much easier to reach with the axle removed.

9.23. To install the front drive axle assembly, per- form the following steps:

9.24. Apply Benaline grease to the bolts that the axle assembly pivots on, keeping the grease off of the threads that will be in contact with the locking nut.

9.25. Apply a small amount of anti-sieze compound to the splines of the universal joint.

NOTE: The left universal joint rides beneath the drive belt and torque converter.

NOTE: Centrifugal force will transfer grease to the belt and torque converter during operation if too much is applied.

9.26. Position the axle assembly in the Big Country, engaging universal joint to the splined out-put shaft of the transmission.

9.27. Slip the thrust washers in between the axle assembly and the mounting points on the frame.

9.21. Withdraw the axle assembly, sliding the splined end of the axle shaft out of the universal joint. See Figure 9.21.

Travel Stops

Sprocket

Splined end of Axle Shaft

Axle Assembly

Figure 9.21

NOTE: Each spline has the same pitch. The

shaft does not need to be indexed to the universal joint.

9.28. Install the bolts from the outside-in.

9.29. Install the washers and locking nuts on the bolts, and tighten them using a pair of 15/6” wrenches to a torque of 175-195 ft-lbs.

9.30. Pump Benaline 920 chassis grease into each of the grease zerks on the axle and universal joint assembly.

9.31. Install the plenum, air filter hoses, and air filter or belt guard by reversing the steps of the removal process.

9.32. Install the wheel, and lower the Big Country to the ground, following the procedures described in the “Lifting the Big Country and Removing the Drive Wheels” section of this manual.

NOTES

3 - 15

Section 3: Drive Axle Service

10. Front Drive Sprocket Removal and Replacement

10.1. Remove the front drive axle as described in “Front Drive Axle Removal and Replacement” .

10.2. Remove the six bolts and lock washers that hold the sprocket to the drive flange on the universal joint. See Figure 10.2.

Sprocket

Six bolts Holding Sprocket to Flange

10.4. While the sprocket is removed, inspect the universal joint for play between the yoke and the cross (loose needle bearings), stiffness, stripped threads, damaged flange surface, damaged splines, loose or missing grease zerks. If any of these conditions exist the universal joint should be repaired before the Big Country is returned to service. See Figure 10.4.

Grease Zerks

Universal Joint

Sprock et

Figure 10.2

10.3. Pull the sprocket off of the universal joint flange. See Figure 10.3.

Flange

Internal Splines

Figure 10.3

Figure 10.4

NOTE: There is a hole in the sprocket to provide

grease gun access to the zerk that feeds the splines. It must be aligned with the zerk when the sprocket is installed on the universal joint.

NOTE: If the spline of any part is damaged, the mating spline should also be inspected.

NOTE: Each spline has the same pitch. The shaft does not need to be indexed to the universal joint.

10.5. Reverse the removal procedure to install a front sprocket.

10.6. If the bed lift motor or prop rod has been disconnected, re-connect it by reversing the procedure used to disconnect it.

NOTES

3 - 16

Section 3: Drive Axle Service

11. Universal Joint Removal and Replacement

11.1. Remove the front drive axle as described in the “Front Drive Axle Removal and Replacement” section.

11.2. Remove the front drive sprocket as described in the “Front Drive Sprocket Removal and Replacement” section.

11.3. Loosen the two nuts that hold the pinch bolts in the inner yoke of the universal joint. See Figure 11.3.

11.7. Install the front drive sprocket to the universal joint.

NOTE: The hole in the sprocket must align with the grease zerk that feeds the spline.

11.8. Apply Loctite 242 or a similar thread locking compound to the bolts that hold the sprocket to the universal joint.

11.9. Using a 9/16” wrench, tighten the bolts as much as possible.

NOTE: Tighten the bolts evenly, in a criss-cross pattern, drawing the sprocket straight onto the flange.

11.10. Lift the front drive axle assembly into position, engaging the splines that connect the axle shaft to the universal joint. Once in position, it will rest on the bump stop until the bolts are installed.

11.11. Slip the thrust washers into place between the axle assembly and the mounting points on the frame.

11.12. Apply Loctite 242 or a similar thread locking compound to the nuts that go on the bolts tat the axle pivots on.

Nuts on Universal Joint Pinch Bolts

Figure 11.3

11.4. Slide the universal joint off of the splined output shaft from the transmission.

NOTE: The bolts do not pass through grooves in the splined shaft, and need not be completely removed.

NOTE: Each spline has the same pitch. The shaft does not need to be indexed to the universal joint.

NOTE: Apply a small amount of anti-sieze compound to the splines during assembly. The left universal joint rides beneath the drive belt and clutch. Centrifugal force will transfer grease to these components during operation if too much is applied.

11.5. Clean any rust or foreign material off of the mating surface of the sprocket and the flange that it mounts to. Apply a small amount of anti-seize compound to the mating surface.

11.13. Apply a small amount of Benaline 920 to the bolts that the axle assembly pivots on, keeping the grease off of the threads that will be in contact with the locking nut.

11.14. Install the bolts from the outside in. Install the washers and locking nuts on the bolts. Tighten them to a torque of 175-195 ft-lb. using a pair of 15/16” wrenches.

11.15. Tighten the bolts on the sprocket to a torque of 48-58 ft-lbs.

NOTE: apply and release the parking brake as necessary to provide access to the bolts and resistance to tighten against.

11.16. Insert the universal joint spacer tool (part number: 703-05104) in between the sprocket and the circlip that holds the axle shaft and inner axle bearing together.

11.6. To install a universal joint, slip it onto the splined output shaft of the transmission, but do not tighten the nuts on the pinch bolts at this time.

3 - 17

Section 3: Drive Axle Service

11.17. Slide the universal joint outward, until it pinches the tool in position. See Figure 11.17.

Universal Joint Spacer Tool

Figure 11.17

11.18. Tighten the nuts on the universal joint pinch bolts to a torque of 48-58 ft-lbs.

11.19. Remove the universal joint spacer tool.

11.20. Reverse the remainder of the removal process to complete installation.

12. Universal joint Service

NOTE: The decision of whether to repair or

replace a universal joint is left to the technician.

12.3. In a universal joint press, push one cup in the end yoke in as far as possible without coming out of the bore in the yoke. See Figure 12.3.

Figure 12.3

12.4. Support the universal joint in a vise, and use a soft hammer to drive the end yoke in the same direction that the cup was pushed.

NOTE: This will cause the cross to force the opposing cup partially out of the yoke.

12.5. Remove the cup. See Figure 12.5.

12.1. Using a 5/16” driver, remove the grease zerks from the universal joint to be repaired.

12.2. Using a pair of needle-nose pliers, remove the snap rings that retain the cups. See Figure 12.2.

Figure 12.2

Figure 12.5

12.6. Remove the universal joint from the vise, turn the universal joint over, and secure it in the vise.

3 - 18

Section 3: Drive Axle Service

12.7. Drive the end yoke in the opposite direction, forcing the second cup partially out of the bore in the yoke. See Figure 12.7.

Figure 12.7

12.8. Remove the second cup.

12.9. Carefully slip the cross out of the end yoke. See Figure 12.9.

12.11. Use the universal joint press to push one cup in the center yoke as far as possible in one direction. See Figure 12.11.

Figure 12.11

12.12. Support the cross in a vise and drive the center yoke in the same direction that the cup was pushed. See Figure 12.12.

Figure 12.9

12.10. Remove the remaining cup from the end yoke.

Figure 12.12

NOTE: The cross will force the cup partially out

of the bore in the center yoke.

12.13. Remove the cup.

12.14. Remove the universal joint from the vise, turn the universal joint over, and secure it in the vise.

3 - 19

Section 3: Drive Axle Service

12.15. Drive the center yoke in the opposite direction, forcing the second cup partially out of the bore. See Figure 12.15.

Figure 12.15

12.16. Carefully remove the cross and remaining cup from the center yoke.

12.17. Inspect the yokes for damage.

12.18. To assemble a universal joint, position one new bearing cup in a bore in the center yoke.

12.20. Carefully install the opposite cup.

12.21. Press the second cup deep into, but not completely through its bore, using the universal joint press. See Figure 12.21.

Figure 12.21

12.22. Install a new snap ring behind the second cup.

12.23. Carefully press the first cup into its bore until the cross seats fully into the second cup. See Figure 12.23.

NOTE: When positioning cups, keep the tapped holes for the grease zerks aligned with oneanother.

NOTE: A coating of grease will help keep the needle bearings in position within the cup.

12.19. Seat the new cross in the new cup. See Figure 12.19.

Figure 12.23

NOTE: If there is difficulty, check for loose nee-

dle bearings.

12.24. Install the snap ring behind the first cup.

12.25. Slip the end yoke over the cross.

Figure 12.19

3 - 20

Section 3: Drive Axle Service

12.26. Press a new cup partially into one bore of the end yoke. See Figure 12.26.

Figure 12.26

12.27. Seat the accessible end of the cross in the opposite cup.

12.28. Use the universal joint press to push the two cups together, driving the second cup deep into but not completely through its bore. See Figure 12.28.

12.31. Install the snap ring behind the first cup. See Figure 12.31.

Figure 12.31

12.32. Align the yokes with a blow from a soft hammer to insure smooth operation. See Figure 12.32.

Stiff Universal joint

Figure 12.28

12.29. Install the snap ring behind the second cup.

12.30. Use the universal joint press to push the first cup into its bore until the cross is fully seated against the second cup.

Figure 12.32

3 - 21

Section 3: Drive Axle Service

12.33. Repeat the process on the second side of the universal joint. See Figure 12.33.

Aligning Yoke

Figure 12.33

NOTE: If any joint fails to move easily, undue

loads will be placed on the transmission.

NOTES

13.4. Remove the circlip that holds the rear sprocket to the axle shaft, using a circlip tool. See Figure 13.4.

Rear Sprocket

Washers and Nuts on Axle Pivot Bolts

Figure 13.4

13.5. Remove the two nuts, washers and bolts that the axle assembly pivots on, using two 15/16” wrenches.

Snap Ring

13. Rear Drive Axle Removal and Replacement

13.1. Lift and support the Big Country, and remove the tire, following the instructions given in the “Lifting the Big Country and Removing the Drive Wheels” section of this manual.

13.2. Remove the drive chain, following the instructions given in the “Chain Removal and Replacement” section of this manual.

13.3. Remove the spring and shock assembly from the axle assembly that is to be removed, following the instructions given in the “Spring and Shock Assembly Removal and Replacement” section of this manual.

NOTE: The bolt heads are at the outside of each bracket, with the nuts and washers at the inside.

NOTE: Withdraw the axle assembly. As it comes out, enough clearance will be created to get the sprocket off of the axle. See Figure 13.5.

Sprock et

Axle assembly

Figure 13.5

NOTE: Each spline has the same pitch. The

shaft does not need to be indexed to the sprocket.

3 - 22

Section 3: Drive Axle Service

13.6. Examine the rubber travel stops while the axle assembly is out. They can be replaced without removing the axle assembly, but they are much easier to reach with the axle removed.

13.7. To install the rear drive axle assembly, per- form the following steps.

13.8. Apply a small amount of Benaline 920 to the bolts that the axle assembly pivots on, keeping the grease off of the threads that will be in contact with the locking nut.

13.9. Apply a small amount of anti-seize compound to the splines.

13.10. Position the axle assembly in the frame. Position the drive sprocket on the axle as the axle is pushed into place.

13.11. Insert the thrust washers between the axle assembly and the mounting points on the frame.

13.12. Apply Loctite 242 or a similar thread locking compound to the nuts that go on the bolts that the axle pivots on.

13.13. Install the bolts, washers, and locking nuts.

15. Axle Bushing Removal and Replacement

15.1. Remove the axle assembly as described in the “Drive Axle Service: Front Drive Axle Removal and Replacement” or “Rear Suspension Service: Rear Drive Axle Removal and Replacement” section of this manual.

15.2. Push the metal sleeves out of the axle assembly with light finger pressure. See Figure 15.2.

Polymer Sleeve Bearings

Metal Sleeves

13.14. Tighten the nuts to a torque of 175-195 ft-lb. using a pair of 15/16” wrenches.

13.15. Secure the sprocket to the axle with a snap ring, using a snap-ring tool.

13.16. Install the drive chain, following the instructions given in the “Chain Removal and Replacement” section of this manual.

13.17. Install the spring and shock assembly from the axle assembly that is to be removed, following the instructions given in the “Spring and Shock Assembly Removal and Replacement” section of this manual.

13.18. Connect the bed prop rod or the electric lift motor by reversing the process by which it was disconnected.

13.19. Install the wheel and lower the Big Country to the ground, following the procedures described in the “Lifting the Big Country and Removing the Drive Wheel” section of this manual.

14. Rear Sprocket Removal and Replacement

NOTE: The procedure for removing and replac-

ing the rear sprocket is identical to the procedure for removing and replacing the rear drive axle as described in the “Rear Drive Axle Removal and Replacement” section.

Figure 15.2

NOTE: The metal sleeves ride in shouldered

polymer sleeve bearings.

15.3. Drive the sleeve bearings out of the axle assembly with a soft drift (brass, aluminum or wood), to insure that no damage is done to the axle assembly. The bearings will be destroyed in the process. See Figure 15.3.

Polymer Sleeve Bearings Removed

Figure 15.3

3 - 23

Section 3: Drive Axle Service

15.4. After the first bearing is driven out, a 15/16” socket may be used in conjunction with the soft drift to drive the second bearing (inner bearing) out.

15.5. Lubricate the metal inner bushings and the sleeve bearings with Benaline 920 grease.

15.6. Drive the new sleeve bearings into the axle assembly using the metal inner bushing as a guide. The bolt and washer that fasten the axle assembly to the frame can be used as a driver. See Figure 15.6.

New Polymer Sleeve Bearing

Metal Sleeve

Washer

NOTE: Current production Big Country vehicles use non-shouldered sleeve bearings. These can be identified by the external gussets on the front drive axles and internal gussets on the rear drive axles. See Figure 15.7.

Rear Drive Axle (Internal Gussets)

Bolt

Figure 15.6

15.7. Install the axle assembly as described in the “Front Drive Axle Removal and Replacement” if it is a front drive axle or “Rear Drive Axle Removal and Replacement” if it is a rear drive axle.

Gusseted Front Drive Axle

Figure 15.7

NOTE: Non-shouldered sleeve busings must be

pressed-in at least flush with the end of the pivot tube and not more than .020” into the tube.

NOTES

Non-shouldered Sleeve Bearings

Figure 15.7

3 - 24

Section 3: Drive Axle Service

16. Axle and Bearing Removal and Replacement

16.1. Remove the axle assembly as described in the “Drive Axle Service: Front Drive Axle Removal and Replacement” or “Rear Suspension Service: Rear Drive Axle Removal and Replacement” section of this manual.

16.2. If there has been collision damage to the Big Country, check the axle flange for run-out. See Figure 16.2.

Dial Indicator

Axle Flange

16.4. Drive the inner axle bearing out of the axle assembly using a hammer and soft drift. When driving the bearing, apply force to the outer race.

16.5. Drive the outer axle bearing out of the axle assembly using a hammer and soft drift. When driving the bearing, apply force to the outer race. See Figure 16.5.

Inner Axle Bearing (Smaller I.D.)

Machined Shoulder

Outer Axle Bearing (Larger I.D.)

Figure 16.5

Figure 16.2

NOTE: Run-out check may be done with the

axle mounted in the Big Country, or on the bench.

16.3. To Disassemble the axle, safely position the axle assembly in a press. Support the outer axle bearing and press the axle shaft out of the bearings. See Figure 16.3.

Press Axle

Support Outer Axle Bearing

16.6. Inspect the bearings for damage, looseness, and smooth rotation.

16.7. Inspect the axle shaft. Pay particular attention to the condition of the splines.

16.8. Inspect the axle weldment for collision damage and trueness. The axle bushings should be at a 90 degree angle to the tube that the axle bearings fit in. See Figure 16.8.

90 deg.

Figure 16.3

Figure 16.8

3 - 25

Section 3: Drive Axle Service

16.9. Clean any paint or corrosion from the machined recesses that the axle bearings fit into.

16.10. To put the drive axle assembly together, press the outer axle bearing (larger internal diameter) onto the axle shaft. See Figure 16.10.

Press Axle

Support Inner Race of Bearing

Figure 16.10

NOTE: The press should be arranged to support

the bearing by the inner race, and press on the axle shaft.

16.12. Position the inner axle bearing over the splined end of the axle and press it into place. See Figure 16.12.

Press Bearing

Support Axle

Figure 16.12

16.13. Slip the metal sleeves back into the bushings.

16.14. Install the axle assembly as described in the “Front Drive Axle Removal and Replacement” or “Rear Drive Axle Removal and Replacement” section of this manual.

NOTE: The fit between the bearing and the axle shaft is tighter than the fit between the bearing and the axle weldment. Pressing the bearing onto the shaft first allows the best control of the pressing loads while assembling the pieces with the tightest fit.

16.11. Press or drive the axle and outer bearing into the axle weldment. See Figure 16.11.

Press Axle and Bearing

Support Weldment

17. Torque Table: Drive Axle

Location Inch-Lbs Foot-Lbs.

Lug Bolts 75 ft-lbs

Spring and

45-55 ft-lbs

Shock Unit

Sprocket 48-58 ft-lbs

Drive Axle to Vehicle

Roller to Chain

175-195 ft-lbs

45-55 ft-lbs

Ten si on er

Chain Ten-

45-55 ft-lbs

sioner to Vehicle

Chain Tensioner Index Bolt

110-120 inlbs

Figure 16.11

3 - 26

Section 4: Engine and Transmission Support Assembly

1. Engine and Transmission Support Assembly: Removal and Replacement as a Unit

NOTE: The engine and transmission can be

removed individually. This procedure is for the removal of the engine support as an assembly.

1.1. Disconnect the prop rod from the bed, as

described in the “Spring and Shock Assembly Removal” section of this manual. See Figure 1.1.

1.4. Lift and remove the bed with an assistant or a suitable lifting device. See Figure 1.4.

Shock Cord

Prop Rod

Figure 1.4

NOTE: Use caution not to snag the prop rod on

the prop rod bracket as the bed comes up. A shock cord will help keep the prop rod clear.

Figure 1.1

1.2. Lower the bed.

1.3. Remove the nuts and bolts that hold the bed to the frame using ¾” wrenches. See Figure 1.3.

Nuts and Bolts Holding the Bed to the Frame

Figure 1.3

1.5. Lift the Big Country and remove the front drive wheels as described in the “Lifting the Big Country and Removing the Wheels” section of this manual.

1.6. Loosen the hose clamps and remove both hoses that connect to the air filter using a screwdriver or a 5/16” driver. See Figure 1.6.

Air Filter

Figure 1.6

Hose to Carburetor

Hose to Plenum

4 - 1

Section 4: Engine and Transmission Support Asssembly

1.7. Cover the carburetor to prevent foreign objects from entering the engine.

1.8. Unbolt the air filter bracket from the air intake shoulder using a 13mm wrench, and remove the filter. See Figure 1.8.

Air Filter Mounting Bolts

Upper Transmission Support

Figure 1.8

1.9. Remove the three bolts that hold the air intake shoulder to the cylinder heads using a 12mm wrench and a 13mm wrench.

Air Intake Shoulder

Throttle Cable

Choke Cable

1.17. Carefully disconnect the negative cable from the battery using a 7/16” wrench. See Figure 1.17.

Negative Battery Cable

Figure 1.17

1.18. Tilt both seats forward.

NOTE: The fuel tank is located under the driver’s seat.

1.19. Turn the fuel valve to “OFF”. See Figure 1.19.

NOTE: The two bolts that hold the air intake shoulder to the front cylinder head also pass through the upper transmission support.

1.10. Loosen the nut and bolt that hold the upper transmission support bracket to the transmission using two 9/16” wrenches.

1.11. Remove the two screws that hold the air intake shoulder to the fan cover using an 8mm driver or a screwdriver.

1.12. Carefully slip the fuel line and the fuel shut-off solenoid wire free of the air intake shoulder, and remove it.

1.13. Match mark and disconnect the choke cable from the choke cable bracket and choke linkage using a 7mm driver.

1.14. Match mark and disconnect the throttle cable from the throttle cable bracket and throttle linkage using a 7mm driver.

1.15. Remove the two bolts, flat washers, and rubber washers that hold the hood closed using a 9/16” wrench.

Fuel Tank

Fuel Valve

Fuel Level Sender

Fuel Return Line

Fuel Gauge

Figure 1.19

1.20. Disconnect the bullet terminal on the end of the brown 14 AWG harness wire from the black wire with a yellow tracer that leads to the fuel shut-off solenoid.

1.16. Tilt the hood forward to open it.

4 - 2

Section 4: Engine and Transmission Support Assembly

1.21. Disconnect the bullet terminal on the red with black tracer 14 AWG harness wire from the black wire with red trace that leads to the engine ignition. See Figure 1.21.

Wire to Fuel Shut-off Solenoid

Wire to Ignition

Figure 1.21

1.22. Disconnect and plug the fuel line where it meets the second fuel filter that is normally located under the intake shoulder, using a pair of pliers to squeeze the hose clamp. See Figure 1.22.

1.23. Match mark and disconnect the bullet connectors that join the brown 14 AWG harness wire and the gray 14 AWG harness wire to the gray alternator leads from the engine. See Figure 1.23.

Starter

Battery Cable

Solenoid Trigger Wire

1.24. Unplug the spade connector on the end of the red 12 AWG wire from the trigger terminal on the starter solenoid.

Starter Motor

Figure 1.23

Solenoid

Alternator Leads

Fuel Shut-off Solenoid Wire (black with yellow trace)

Fuel Filter

Figure 1.22

1.25. Remove the nut and lock washer from the heavy terminal on the starter solenoid, and disconnect the red 8 AWG battery cable from the solenoid using a 12mm wrench.

1.26. At the back of the engine, remove the eyelet terminal on the end of the yellow 16 AWG harness wire from the oil pressure switch attached to the engine using a 7mm driver. See Figure 1.26.

Oil Pressure Switch

Fuel Line

Isolator Mount

Ground Cable

4 - 3

Figure 1.26

Section 4: Engine and Transmission Support Asssembly

1.27. Disconnect the black 8 AWG ground cable from the frame (at the isolator) using a ½” wrench

NOTE: Insure that the ground cable from the engine to the frame has a clean connection at both ends, otherwise the starter motor and charging system will not work properly.

1.28. Remove the two bolts that hold the muffler bracket to the engine block using a 13mm wrench.

1.29. Remove the two nuts from each exhaust flange using a 12mm wrench. See Figure 1.29.

Exhaust Flange Nuts

1.33. Move the plenum far enough forward to gain access to the bolts that hold the belt guard to the upper cross-member at the front of the engine compartment.

1.34. Disconnect the barbed cable tie that holds the engine control cables to the belt guard using a pair of diagonal cutting pliers.

1.35. Remove the two horizontal bolts that hold the belt guard to the cross-member using a 1/2” wrench. See Figure 1.35.

Plenum

Fuel Tank Vent

Vertical Bolts

Muffler Bracket Bolts

Figure 1.29

1.30. Lift the muffler off of the exhaust port studs, and remove it.

NOTE: Replace the exhaust port gaskets each time the muffler is removed.

1.31. Remove the nuts, from the two bolts that attach the plenum to the upper cross-member at the front of the engine compartment using a 9/16” wrench and a 9/16” socket.

1.32. Remove the bolts and steel flat washers from the front of the plenum.

NOTE: There are two rubber washers between the plenum and the cross-member.

Horizontal Bolts

Figure 1.35

1.36. Remove the nuts from the vertical bolts that hold the belt guard to the cross-member using two 1/2” wrenches.

1.37. Lift the belt guard straight up to remove it and the bolts from the cross-member.

1.38. Disconnect both high tension leads from the spark plugs.

1.39. Release the parking brake if it has been set.

1.40. Roll the belt off of the driven clutch pulley, toward the transmission.

1.41. Set the parking brake.

1.42. Place the transmission shift lever in gear.

4 - 4

Section 4: Engine and Transmission Support Assembly

1.43. Remove the bolt that secures the driven clutch pulley to the input shaft of the transmission using a 17mm wrench. See Figure 1.43.

Driven Clutch Pulley

Figure 1.43

1.44. Place the transmission shift lever in Neutral.

1.45. Remove the hairpin clip and flat washer that hold the shift interlock cable to the interlock arm.

1.46. Unhook the spring that connects the interlock cable to the clutch pulley brake arm.

1.47. Remove the nut, bolt, and spacer that hold the shift interlock bracket to the transmission using two 9/16” wrenches. See Figure 1.47.

Upper Mounting Bolt

Spacer

Shift Interlock Bracket

1.49. Remove the shift interlock bracket as an assembly. See Figure 1.49.

Shift Interlock assembly

Figure 1.49

1.50. Slide the driven clutch pulley off of the input shaft.

1.51. Relieve tension from both drive chains according to the instructions found in the “Chain Tension Adjustment” section of this manual.

NOTE: If the unit is equipped with fixed chain guides it is just as easy to remove the chains as described in the “Chain Removal” section of this manual.

1.52. Remove the bolt and flat washer that secure the cup holder console between the seats using a 3/8” wrench, and remove the cup holder console. See Figure 1.52.

Lower

Shift Interlock Arm

Shift Interlock Cable

1.48. Remove the nut, bolt, and flat washer that hold the bottom of the shift interlock bracket to the transmission using two 9/16” wrenches.

Mounting Bolt

Figure 1.47

Console Cup Holder

Parcel Bin

Figure 1.52

4 - 5

Section 4: Engine and Transmission Support Asssembly

1.53. Remove the two bolts and flat washers that hold the parcel bin in the recess under the passenger seat using a ½” wrench.

1.54. Remove the parcel bin.

1.55. Loosen the clamp bolt that holds the transmission lever to the “D” shaped shaft (shift arm) on top of the transmission using two 1/2” wrenches. See Figure 1.55.

Clamp Bolt

“D” Shaped Shaft

Transmission Lever

Molded Connector

1.59. Loosen the jam nuts that hold the differential lock cable to the differential lock bracket using a 1/2” wrench.

1.60. Slip the cable housing out of the bracket, rotate the cable so that the cable aligns with the slot in the differential lock arm, and disengage the cable from the arm. See Figure 1.60.

Differential Lock Cable

Differential Lock Bracket

Differential Lock Arm

Figure 1.60

Figure 1.55

1.56. Disconnect the transmission safety switch from the wiring harness by un-plugging the molded connector.

1.57. Remove the hairpin clip that holds the front of the shift rod to the shift lever. See Figure 1.57.

Shift Rod

Shift Lever

1.61. Loosen the nuts on the clamp bolts that hold each universal joint to the out-put shafts of the transmission using two 9/16” wrenches.

1.62. Slide the right universal joint and sprocket as far outward as possible. See Figure 1.62.

Clamp Bolts

Slide Outward

Figure 1.62

Figure 1.57

1.58. Lift the shift rod and shift arm out of the engine compartment as an assembly.

4 - 6

Section 4: Engine and Transmission Support Assembly

1.63. Remove the spring and shock assembly from the left front drive axle, as described in the “Spring and Shock Assembly Removal” section of this manual. See Figure 1.63.

Figure 1.63

1.64. Remove the nuts, bolts, and flat washers that hold the left front drive axle assembly to the frame using two 15/16” wrenches.

1.65. Remove the left front drive axle assembly. See Figure 1.65.

Brake Return Spring

Universal Joint

1.66. Disconnect the rear of both brake return springs by unhooking them from the rib in the engine support assembly.

1.67. Remove the Jam nuts from the end of each brake cable using a deep 1/2” socket. See Figure 1.67.

Jam Nut on Brake Cable

Jam Nuts on Brake Cable Housing

Bracket

Figure 1.67

1.68. Loosen the jam nut on the end of each cable housing using a pair of 7/8” wrenches.

NOTE: the jam nuts on the brake cable housing ends are easily reached from beneath the Big Country.

1.69. Pull the rubber boot off the end of each cable housing, and slip the nut off of each cable housing.

Brake Return Spring (loose)

Output Shaft

Brake Cam Arm

Figure 1.65

NOTE: The left universal joint will slip off of the

transmission output shaft.

1.70. Pull the cable housing out of the bracket, pull the cable out of the brake cam arm, and move the brake cables clear of the engine and transmission support assembly.

1.71. The wiring harness is held to the transmission housing by a clamp. Remove the bolt that holds that clamp using a 12mm socket, and pull the wiring harness clear of the engine and transmission support assembly.

4 - 7

Section 4: Engine and Transmission Support Asssembly

1.72. Remove the nuts and bolts that fasten the front of the engine and transmission support bracket to the isolator mounts using a pair of 9/16” wrenches. See Figure 1.72.

Front Isolator Mounts

Figure 1.72

NOTE: The ends of each cross-member are

open, to provide wrench access to the nuts.

Engine and Transmission Support Assembly

1.75. Lift the engine and transmission support assembly far enough to take the weight off of the isolators.

1.76. Push the engine and transmission support assembly far enough to the right to disengage the left output shaft of the transmission from the inner left universal joint.

1.77. Lift the engine support about 8” above the isolators.

1.78. Roll the Big Country forward about 6”, so that the front edge of the engine support clears the forward cross-member at the top of the engine compartment.

1.79. Lift the engine support until it is completely clear of the engine compartment, and remove it. See Figure 1.79.

1.73. Remove the nuts and bolts that fasten the rear of the engine and transmission support bracket to the isolator mounts using a pair of 9/16” wrenches. See Figure 1.73.

Rear Isolator Mounts

Wrench Access

Figure 1.73

1.74. Safely attach an appropriate lifting device.

Figure 1.79

1.80. Place the engine and transmission support assembly on a sturdy work surface, and make any necessary repairs.

NOTE: Two well constructed saw-horses will support the assembly and provide access from above and below.

NOTE: While the engine support is out of the vehicle, take the opportunity to inspect any parts that are otherwise inaccessible.

4 - 8

Section 4: Engine and Transmission Support Assembly

NOTE: The engine support isolators can be

unbolted from the frame and removed using a ½” wrench. The bolts attach to threaded inserts in the frame, and there is no nut to reach on the bottom of the frame. See Figure 1.80.

Figure 1.80

1.83. Reverse the removal process to install the engine and transmission support assembly.

NOTE: Check the brake adjustment as the brake

cables and shift lockout mechanism are installed. See the “Brake Cable Adjustment” section of this manual.

NOTE: Check the choke and throttle cable adjustments as the cables are installed. See the “Choke Cable Adjustment” and “Throttle Cable Adjustment” section of this manual.

NOTE: Insure that the ground cable from the engine to the frame has a clean connection at both ends, otherwise the starter motor and charging system will not work properly.

NOTE: Refer to the “Front Drive Axle Removal and Replacement” section of this manual when installing the drive axle

1.84. Tighten all fasteners in accordance with the Torque Table a the end of this section.

1.85. Check the fluid levels in the engine and transmission, start the engine, and test the operation of the Big Country.

1.81. The engine is easily removed from the engine support using two 17mm wrenches. See Figure 1.81.

Engine Mounting

Figure 1.81

1.82. The transmission can be easily removed from the engine support using a 24mm wrench to unbolt the transmission from the mounting ears that it rests on.

1.86. When correct operation of the Big Country is confirmed, install the bed by reversing the procedure that was used to remove it.

NOTES

2. Engine Removal and Replacement (Independent of Engine Support Assembly)

NOTE: Most regular maintenance items (Carbu-

retor, valve adjustment, oil filter), as well as the starter motor and oil pressure switch, and oil filter base can be reached with the engine in place. Many other repairs require the removal of the fan cover. The engine must be removed from the engine and transmission support assembly to remove the fan cover.

2.1. Perform all the steps listed in the “Engine and Transmission Support Assembly: Removal and Replacement” section of this manual prior to the point of removing the driven clutch pulley.

4 - 9

Section 4: Engine and Transmission Support Asssembly

2.2. Remove the nut, bolt and washer that hold the upper transmission support to the transmission using two 9/16” wrenches.

2.3. Remove the upper transmission support. See Figure 2.3.

Upper Transmission Support

Figure 2.3

2.4. Place a catch pan under the back of the engine and remove the oil filter. See Figure 2.4.

2.6. Reach under the starter motor with a 17mm box wrench, and position it securely on the one of the nuts that secure the engine to the engine support assembly. See Figure 2.6.

Starter Motor

Oil Drain Valve

2.7. From beneath the Big Country, remove the bolt that the nut is on using a 17mm wrench. See Figure 2.7.

Nuts on Engine Mounting Bolts

Figure 2.6

Oil Filter

Nuts on Mounting Bolts

Figure 2.4

2.5. Remove the nuts, bolts and washers that hold the rear of the engine and the engine ground cable to the engine support assembly using a pair of 17mm wrenches.

Ground Cable

Rear

Engine Mounting Bolts

Oil Drain Valve

Front

Figure 2.7

2.8. Repeat this process on the final nut and bolt.

2.9. Retrieve the nuts and washers from the engine support assembly.

4 - 10

Section 4: Engine and Transmission Support Assembly

2.10. Push the engine forward and rotate it to loosen the belt. See Figure 2.10.

Figure 2.10

NOTE: Do not damage the oil drain valve on the

front of the sump: it extends below the engine support assembly.

2.14. Attach an appropriate lifting device to the lift eyes, and carefully remove the engine from the Big Country. See Figure 2.14.

Figure 2.14

2.15. To install the engine in the Big Country, reverse the steps used to remove the engine.

2.11. Roll the belt off the inside edge of the driven clutch pulley to provide slack.

2.12. Remove the belt completely from the driving clutch pulley

NOTE: One lift eyelet is removed from the Honda engine at our factory to provide a mounting point for the upper transmission support. It has been included with the Owner’s Manual.

2.13. Install the second lift eye to the front cylinder head using a 13mm wrench. See Figure 2.13.

Second Lift Eye

NOTE: Use the torque chart found at the end of the “Engine and Transmission Support Assembly ” section of this manual when installing the engine.

NOTE: The driving clutch pulley may be removed from the engine on the bench. Refer to the “Driving Clutch Pulley Removal and Replacement” section of this manual for specific instructions.

NOTES

Figure 2.13

4 - 11

Section 4: Engine and Transmission Support Asssembly

3. Engine Support Assembly Isolator Mounts (Rear), Removal and Replacement

3.1. Position the Big Country on a firm level surface in a location that leaves room to work around the rear of the vehicle.

3.2. Turn the engine off, remove the key, and set the parking brake.

3.3. Reaching in through the opening at the back of the frame, insert a 9/16” wrench through the slot in the back of the rear frame cross-member to reach the nut on the bolt that holds the engine and transmission support assembly to the isolator mount. See Figure 3.3.

Rear Mounting Point of Engine and Transmission Support Assembly

Isolator Mount

3.7. Remove the two bolts that hold the isolator mount to the frame using a ½” wrench. See Figure 3.7.

Figure 3.7

3.8. Use a jack to lift the engine support assembly far enough (3/8”) to allow the isolator mount to slip out of the frame cross-member. See Figure 3.8.

Access to Nut

Figure 3.3

3.4. Loosen the bolt using a second 9/16” wrench.

3.5. Remove the nut and the large fender washer from within the frame cross-member.

3.6. Lift the bolt and heavy flat washer out of the isolator and engine support assembly.

Figure 3.8

3.9. To Install an Isolator Mount, reverse the steps of the removal procedure.

3.10. Refer to the torque tabel at the back of this section when tightening the fasteners.

NOTE: The ground cable from the engine to the frame is secured under one of these isolator bolts. It must have good electrical contact, or the starter and charging system will not work properly.

4 - 12

Section 4: Engine and Transmission Support Assembly

4. Engine Support Assembly Isolator Mounts (Front), Removal and Replacement

4.1. Position the Big Country on a firm level surface in a location that leaves room to work around both sides of the vehicle.

4.2. Lift and support the bed.

4.3. Turn the engine off, remove the key, and set the parking brake.

4.4. Tilt both seats forward.

4.5. Remove the bolt and washer that secure the cup holder console using a 3/8” wrench, and lift away the cup holder console.

4.6. Remove the two bolts and washers that secure the parcel bin under the passenger’s seat, and remove the parcel bin. See Figure 4.6.

Cup Holder Console

4.8. Loosen the bolt using a second 9/16” wrench See Figure 4.8.

Isolator Mount

Engine and Transmission Support Assembly

Frame Cross-member

Figure 4.8

4.9. Remove the nut and the large fender washer from within the frame cross-member.

4.10. Lift the bolt and heavy flat washer out of the isolator mount and engine support assembly.

Parcel Bin

Figure 4.6

4.7. Insert a 9/16” wrench through the slot in the front of the frame cross-member at the front of the engine compartment to reach the nut on the bolt that holds the isolator to the engine support assembly.

4.11. Remove the two bolts that hold the isolator mount to the frame using a ½” wrench.

NOTE: There are threaded inserts in the frame.

4.12. Use a jack to lift the engine support assembly just far enough (3/8”) to allow the isolator mount to slip out of the opening in the top of the rear frame cross-member. See Figure 4.12.

Engine Support Assembly

Isolator Mount

Frame

Figure 4.12

4.13. To Install an Isolator mount, reverse the steps of the removal procedure.

4 - 13

Section 4: Engine and Transmission Support Asssembly

5. Torque Table: Eng. and Trans. Support Ass’y

Location Inch-lbs Foot-Lbs

Engine to Engine and Transmission Support

48-58 ft-lbs

Assembly

Isolator Mounts to Engine and Transmission

48-58 ft-lbs

Support Assembly

Isolator Mounts to Frame 336-384 in-lbs 28-32 ft-lbs

Upper Transmission Support (at transmission) 48-58 ft-lbs

Universal Joint Clamp Bolts 48-58 ft-lbs

Drive Axle Assembly to Frame 175-195 ft-lbs

4 - 14

Section 5: The Fuel System

1. Precautions

1.1. Clean, fresh gasoline with a pump octane rating of 86 or higher is to be used.

1.2. Do not fill the fuel tank beyond the mold-parting seam.

1.3. Use common sense when dealing with gasoline: it is flammable and toxic. Common sense precautions include but are not limited to:

• Do not fill the fuel tank or service any part of the fuel system in the presence of any heat source, sparks, or open flame.

• Do not smoke while filling the fuel tank or servicing any part of the fuel system.

• Avoid breathing fuel vapors, and avoid excessive skin contact with fuel.

• Clean any fuel spills immediately, and ventilate the area with fresh air.

• If any fuel system components show signs of failing, (cracked fuel lines, damaged hose clamps, etc…) replace them immediately.

2. About the Fuel System

2.1. The fuel tank is mounted under the driver’s seat. See Figure 2.1.

2.2. The fuel filler cap of the Big Country will fit onto many Cub Cadet tractors, but it is not vented. The fuel filler caps on the tractors are vented. Putting a vented fuel filler cap on the Big Country will cause it to expel gasoline fumes next to the operator under some conditions. Putting an unvented fuel filler cap on a Cub Cadet tractor will cause flooding or fuel starvation problems, depending on operating conditions. See Figure 2.2.

Big Country (Unvented)

Tractor (Vented)

Figure 2.2

Driver’s Seat

Filler Neck

Mold Parting Seam

Figure 2.1

2.3. The vent hose, fuel gauge, fuel level switch, and fuel pick-up with valve are all mounted to the top of the fuel tank. See Figure 2.3.

Port for Vent Line

90 deg. Elbow

Fuel Gauge

Fuel Level Switch

5 - 1

Bushing

Vent Line

Fuel Pick-up

Figure 2.3

Section 5: The Fuel System

2.4. Any of these items can be removed by disconnecting any hoses or wires that are attached to them and gently pulling or prying them out of the fuel tank.

2.5. Each of these items fits through a grommet in the top of the tank. Install the grommet first, then the device.

2.6. The fuel level switch is of a normally closed design. When the fuel tank is full, continuity is broken. When the fuel level goes down, continuity in the switch is made, completing the circuit that lights the fuel pump symbol on the instrument panel. See Figure 2.6.

NOTE: To remove the filter near the tank, slip the filter out of the cable tie, turn the fuel valve to the “OFF” position, pinch and remove the hose clamps, and pull the hoses off of the filter. Have a catch pan in place.

NOTE: Reverse the process to install the filter. Install it with arrow on the filter body pointing in the direction of fuel flow, or in accordance with the words “IN” and “OUT”.

2.8. There is a smaller filter located under the air intake shoulder. See Figure 2.8.

Molded Connector

Fuel Level Switch

2.7. There are two fuel filters in the system. There is a large, 15µ filter fastened to the console support bracket by a barbed cable tie.

Fuel Filter

Port for Fuel Level Switch

Bushing

Figure 2.6

Float

Engine: Air Intake Shoulder Removed

Fuel Line (To Carburetor)

NOTE: The filters should be checked every six months or 100 hours of operation. Replace either filter if sediment or water are visible within the filter. If the fuel has become stale or contaminated, replace the filters regardless of the number of hours of operation.

NOTE: The carburetor is jetted specifically for the Big Country. If replacement is necessary, an exact replacement carburetor should be obtained through Cub Cadet.

Filter

Figure 2.8

Fuel Line (From Pump)

Figure 2.7

5 - 2

Section 5: The Fuel System

3. Fuel Tank Removal and Replacement

3.1. Park the Big Country on a firm, level surface. Set the Parking Brake, and remove the key from the key switch.

3.2. Drain the fuel tank into an approved container.

NOTE: The fuel pump may be used to empty the fuel tank by disconnecting the fuel line at the carburetor and routing it into a gas can.

3.3. Tilt both seats forward.

3.4. Remove the bolt and flat washer that hold the cup holder console to the console support plate using a 3/8” wrench, and remove the cup holder console.

3.5. Remove the two bolts and flat washers that hold the parcel bin in place under the passenger’s seat using a ½” wrench. Remove the parcel bin.

3.6. Disconnect the fuel vent line from the barbed elbow on the fuel tank using a pair of pliers, and pull the vent line far enough through the frame cross-member to get it out of the way.

3.7. Turn the fuel valve to the “OFF” position, and disconnect the fuel line using a pair of pliers. Plug the end of the fuel line. See Figure 3.7.

OFF

3.10. Remove the four bolts that secure the console support plate to the frame using a ½” wrench. See Figure 3.10.

Plenum (Pushed Back)

Bolts

Fuel Pump Plug

Figure 3.10

3.11. Disconnect the molded plug for the fuel pump.

3.12. Unhook the differential lock return spring from the console support plate.

3.13. Lift the plenum and the rear edge of the console support plate far enough for the mounting tabs on the front of the console support plate to clear the frame.

3.14. Move the console support plate out of the way.

Console Support Plate

Close-up of Fuel Valve

Figure 3.7

3.8. Disconnect the molded plug for the fuel level switch.

3.9. Remove the two nuts, washers, and bolts that hold the plenum to the frame cross-member.

3.15. Remove the bolt that secures the pivot pin for the gearshift lever and differential lock lever using a ½” wrench.

Spring (Attaches to Console Support Plate)

Differential LeverLock

Gearshift Lever

Pivot Pin

Pivot Pin Bolt

Figure 3.15

3.16. Withdraw the pivot pin.

5 - 3

Section 5: The Fuel System

3.17. Unhook the spring on the end of the differential lock cable from the differential lock lever.

3.18. Remove the differential lock lever.

NOTE: The gearshift lever may be left connected to the shift rod.

3.19. Remove the front engine and transmission assembly isolator mounts. Refer to the “Engine and Transmission Support Assembly Isolator mount Removal and Replacement” section of this manual. See Figure 3.19.

Fuel Tank

Engine And Transmission Support Assembly

3.22. Maneuver the fuel tank hold down bar out from between the frame cross-members, and remove it.

3.23. Maneuver the fuel tank out of the frame: Lift up the right side of the fuel tank far enough to clear the engine and transmission support assembly, then push it back far enough to clear the channel that the pivot pin passes through. Once clear of the channel, lift the right side up further so that the filler neck on the left side drops enough to pass through the side panel of the frame. See Figure 3.23.

Note: Isolator Mounts Removed

Figure 3.19

3.20. Remove the nut from the hold-down rod at the back of the fuel tank hold down-bar using a 7/16” wrench.

3.21. Remove the nut, washer, and bolt at the front of the fuel tank hold-down bar using two ½” wrenches. See Figure 3.21.

Tank Hold-down Bar

Tank Hold-down Rod

Nut, Bolt Washer

Figure 3.23

3.24. Once the filler neck is clear of the side panel, lift the tank and remove it. See Figure 3.24.

Fuel Tank Removed

Figure 3.21

5 - 4

Fuel Tank Hold-down Rod Into the Frame

Hooks

Figure 3.24

Section 5: The Fuel System

NOTE: It is not necessary to remove the filler

cap from the filler neck.

3.25. To install the fuel tank, reverse the removal procedure.

NOTES

4. Fuel Pump Performance

4.1. When the key switch is turned to the “ON” position, the fuel pump will normally make a clattering noise for several seconds, then it will quietdown as the pump and the lines down-stream of the pump fill with fuel.

4.2. If no clattering is heard, but the engine runs fine, that simply means that fuel remained in the system and it was not necessary for the pump to reprime itself.

4.3. If the pump continues to clatter for more than a few seconds, lift the bed and make a visual inspection for fuel leakage before attempting to start the engine.

4.4. If the fuel pump continues to clatter and there is not a fuel leak between the fuel pump and the carburetor, something is interfering with the ability of the pump to reach the fuel. Possibilities include the following:

•A damaged pick-up tube within the tank. This could be a blockage, or an air leak somewhere above the level of the fuel in the tank. See Figure 4.4.A.

Fuel Valve

Fuel Pick-up Tube

Grommet

Figure 4.4A

• The pump may be bad. Confirm the condition of the pump by performing flow and pressure

tests. The pump should produce a fuel flow of 8 fl.oz. in 15 seconds. and pressure of about 2 P.S.I. See Figure 4.4.B.

Time Fuel Flow: 15 seconds

Measure Fuel Volume: 8 fl.oz.

• Fuel valve closed.

• Fuel tank empty.

• Fuel tank vent line or vent valve blocked or damaged

•A blocked line or filter between the fuel tank and the fuel pump.

•A leak between the fuel pump and the fuel tank. This is a negative pressure area when the pump is running, so a cracked line, cracked filter, or bad connection here would not necessarily leak fuel out, but would draw air in. Entrained air in the fuel system will not allow the pump to work properly.

Figure 4.4B

NOTE: Flow and pressure tests are not a valid

indication of the condition of the pump unless topump fuel supply issues are eliminated.

5 - 5

Section 5: The Fuel System

4.5. If the pump makes no noise at all, confirm that an electrical problem is not to blame. If the fuel pump has good power supply and good ground, yet fails to operate, it is bad.

4.6. If the pump runs normally, but fails to supply fuel to the carburetor, check the fuel line between the pump and the engine for kinks or obstructions. This includes the second fuel filter that is located under the air intake shoulder.

4.7. If the pump runs normally, but fails to supply fuel to the carburetor, and the fuel line between the pump and the carburetor is free of kinks or obstructions, the fuel shut-off solenoid may be at fault. It makes a single audible click when the key switch is turned to the “ON” position. If this click cannot be heard, check the power supply to the fuel shut-off solenoid as well as the ground path back to the negative battery post. If the power supply and ground path to the fuel shutoff solenoid are both good, yet the solenoid fails to click, the solenoid is bad. See Figure 4.7.

5. Fuel Pump Removal and Replacement

5.1. Park the Big Country on a firm, level surface. raise and support the bed, set the parking brake, and remove the key from the key switch.

5.2. Drain the fuel tank into an approved container.

NOTE: The fuel pump may be used to empty the fuel tank by disconnecting the fuel line at the carburetor and routing it into a gas can.

5.3. Tilt both seats forward.

5.4. Remove the bolt and flat washer that hold the cup holder console to the console support plate using a 3/8” wrench, and remove the cup holder console.

5.5. Remove the two bolts and flat washers that hold the parcel bin in place under the passenger’s seat using a ½” wrench. Remove the parcel bin.

5.6. Loosen the two nuts on the bottom side of the bolts near the center of the console support plate using a 7/16” wrench and a deep 7/16” socket.

5.7. Remove the nuts, fuel pump, and the rubber fuel pump isolator mounts from beneath the console support plate. See Figure 5.7.

Black Wire with Yellow Tracer Fuel Shut-off SolenoidLeads to

Figure 4.7

4.8. If fuel is reaching the carburetor in sufficient pressure and quantity to maintain the level in the float chamber, and the fuel shut-off solenoid clicks, but the engine dies after burning a prime, the problem lies within the carburetor, or with the fuel itself.

Fuel Pump Mounting Bolts

Molded

Rubber Isolator Mounts

Connector

Hose Clamps

Figure 5.7

5.8. Squeeze the lock tab on the molded connector, and unplug the fuel pump from the wiring harness.

5.9. Squeeze the hose clamps and slip them far enough down the two hoses connected to the fuel pump that the hoses can be removed.

5 - 6

NOTE: There is an “IN’ fitting and an “OUT” fit-

ting on the pump. They are clearly marked.

5.10. To install a fuel pump, reverse the removal procedure.

NOTE: A small quantity of grease or adhesive can be used to help hold the isolator mounts in position while the fuel pump is fastened to the console support bracket.

5.11. Run and test the Big Country before returning it to service.

6. Plenum and Air Filter

NOTE: The plenum is located immediately

behind the seats.

Section 5: The Fuel System

6.5. If there is a significant amount of dirt in the plenum, unbolt it from the frame using two 9/16” wrenches.

NOTE: There are two rubber bushings that separate the plenum from the frame.

6.6. Rinse and dry the plenum and the hose that leads from the plenum to the air filter to remove any loose contaminants. Regulated compressed air is also effective.

NOTE: Wear eye protection when using compressed air.

6.7. Install the plenum by reversing the removal process.

6.8. To reach the air filter element, release the two bale clips to remove the cover from the air filter.

6.1. The fuel tank vent valve is secured to the plenum with a barbed cable tie. It is of critical importance that the vent valve be maintained in this position: the highest practical mounting point behind the seats. See Figure 6.1.

Plenum

Fuel Tank Vent Valve

Figure 6.1

6.2. Inspect the inside of the plenum at air filter service intervals.

6.3. The air filter should be inspected every 50 hours in normal operating conditions. More frequent service will be required in severe operating conditions.

6.4. To inspect the plenum, loosen the hose clamps that hold the hose in place between the plenum and the air filter using a 5/16” driver or screwdriver, and remove the hose.

Bale Clips

Element

Cover

Figure 6.8

NOTE: The duck valve must face down when

the cover is installed.

6.9. The air filter element slips easily out of the air filter housing.

6.10. Clean the mating surface where the element meets the housing when replacing the filter.

6.11. To remove the air filter from the air intake shoulder, remove the two bolts that fasten the two together using a ½” wrench.

NOTE: The air intake shoulder can be removed from the engine with the air filter

attached to it.

Duck Valve

5 - 7

Section 5: The Fuel System

6.12. Loosen the hose clamp that holds the hose from the air filter to the carburetor using a 5/16” driver or screwdriver. See Figure 6.12.

Carburetor under Air Intake shoulder

Air Intake Shoulder

Fan Cover

Figure 6.12

6.13. Remove the two screws that hold the air intake shoulder to the fan cover using an 8mm driver.

Upper Transmission Support

7. Choke Cable Removal and Replacement

7.1. Park the Big Country on firm level ground.

7.2. Raise and secure the bed.

7.3. Remove the keys from the key switch.

7.4. Remove the two bolts, flat washers, and rubber washers that hold the hood closed using a 9/16” wrench, and open the hood.

7.5. Loosen the clamp that holds the choke cable to the choke cable bracket using an 8mm driver or a phillips head screwdriver. See Figure 7.5.

Clamp

Z-Bend Connection

6.14. Loosen the nut and bolt that hold the upper transmission support to the transmission using two 9/16” wrenches.

6.15. Remove the bolts that hold the upper transmission support to the front cylinder head of the engine using a 13mm wrench.

6.16. Slip the hose off of the carburetor, and lift the air intake shoulder and air filter assembly off as a unit.

6.17. Unplug the brown wire at the bullet connector that joins it to the black wire with yellow trace that leads to the fuel solenoid.

6.18. Cover the carburetor to prevent foreign objects from entering the engine.

6.19. To install the air filter and air intake shoulder, reverse the steps used to remove them.

NOTE: Torque the bolts that hold the upper transmission support to the cylinder head to 12 ft-lbs.

NOTE: Torque the nut and bolt that hold the upper transmission bracket to the transmission to 48-58 ft-lbs.

Choke Cable

Figure 7.5

7.6. Unhook the Z-bend in the end of the choke cable from the choke arm on the carburetor.

7.7. Fasten an 8’ length of wire, twine, or string trimmer line (to use like and electrician’s fish tape) to the end of the choke cable.

7.8. Remove the nut that holds the choke cable housing to the dashboard using a 9/16” wrench.

NOTE: It may be necessary to hold the hex fitting on the knob end of the choke cable housing using a ½” wrench.

7.9. Release the barbed cable tie that holds the choke and throttle cables to the belt guard.

7.10. Pull the choke cable forward out of the engine compartment, through the channel under the floor of the passenger compartment.

5 - 8

Section 5: The Fuel System

7.11. To install the choke cable, cut the fish tape off of the old choke cable, and attach it to the new choke cable in such a way that it will not snag as it is pulled back through the frame.

New Choke Cable

Dash Panel

Trimmer Line “Fish Tape”

Dash Support

Figure 7.11

7.12. Use the fish tape method to route the new cable back through the path of the original cable, and adjust the cable as it is installed

7.13. Perform the “Choke Cable Adjustment” procedure.

NOTES

8. Choke Cable Adjustment

8.1. Loosen the hose clamps on the hose from the air filter to the carburetor, and remove the hose.

8.2. Position the Z-fitting on the end of the cable in the hole in the choke arm, and install the cable housing under the clamp on the choke cable bracket. Do not tighten the clamp at this time.

8.3. Push the choke knob all the way in.

Choke Knob

Figure 8.3

8.4. Set the cable housing position so that the choke plate is completely open and tighten the cable clamp.

Choke Plate Open

Figure 8.4

8.5. Double check the position of the choke knob.

5 - 9

Section 5: The Fuel System

8.6. Pull the choke knob out, and verify that the choke arm is pulled tight against the choke arm stop screw. Check that this corresponds with the choke plate closing. See Figure 8.6.

Choke Arm Stop Screw

Choke Arm

Figure 8.6

NOTE: If the choke arm stop screw needs

adjustment, refer to the Honda Engine Service Manual that applies to the GX620.

8.7. Install the hose between the air filter and the carburetor, and tighten the hose clamps using a 5/16” driver or a screwdriver.

9. Throttle Cable Removal and Replacement

9.1. Park the Big Country on firm level ground.

9.2. Raise and secure the bed.

9.3. Remove the keys from the key switch.

9.4. Remove the two bolts, flat washers and rubber washers that hold the hood down using a 9/16” wrench, and open the hood.

9.5. Tilt both seats forward.

9.6. Remove the bolt and flat washer that hold the cup holder console to the console support plate using a 3/8” wrench.

9.7. Remove the cup holder console.

9.8. Remove the two bolts and flat washers that hold the parcel bin under the passenger’s seat using a ½” wrench.

9.9. Lift out the parcel bin.

9.10. Match mark the choke cable, loosen the clamp that holds it to the choke cable bracket using an 8mm wrench, and move it far enough out of the way to reach the screw that holds the clamp on the throttle cable.

9.11. Loosen the clamp on the throttle cable using an 8mm driver. See Figure 9.11.

8.8. Close the hood, and secure it with two bolts, flat washers, and rubber washers, using a 9/16” wrench.

NOTES

Throttle Cable

Throttle Cable Clamp

Throttle In-put Arm

Figure 9.11

9.12. Loosen the clamp screw that holds the throttle cable to the throttle in-put arm using an 8mm wrench and a 10mm wrench, and pull the cable our of the cable clamp.

9.13. Release the barbed cable tie that holds the choke and throttle cables to the belt guard.

5 - 10

Section 5: The Fuel System

9.14. Release the cable tie that holds the throttle cable in a loop.

9.15. Working at the front of the Big Country, Remove the torx head shoulder screw that connects the eyelet on the end of the throttle cable to the throttle pedal, using a T30 torx driver and a ½” wrench. See Figure 9.15.

Throttle Pedal

Rubber Boot

Throttle Cable

Figure 9.15

9.18. Secure the new throttle cable to the old throttle cable in such a way that it will not snag as it is drawn through the channel under the floor of the Big country.

9.19. To install the new cable, pull the old throttle cable out through the engine compartment, drawing in the new one in the process.

9.20. Separate the two cables.

9.21. Fasten the new cable to the throttle pedal and bracket using a T30 torx driver and two 1/2” wrenches.

9.22. Loop the new cable, and hold the loop in place with a cable tie.

9.23. Secure the choke and throttle cable to the belt guard using a barbed cable tie.

9.24. Install the parcel bin and console cup holder using a 1/2” wrench and a 3/8” wrench.

9.25. Fold the seats down.

9.26. Position the new cable under the clamp on the throttle cable bracket, and push the throttle cable core through the clamp on the throttle input arm. See Figure 9.26.

9.16. Slide the rubber boot up and loosen the jam nuts that hold the throttle cable housing to the slotted bracket under the throttle pedal using two ½” wrenches.

9.17. Thread the top nut all the way off the end of the cable housing, and slip the throttle cable housing out of the keyhole slot in the bracket. See Figure 9.17.

Jam Nuts

Keyhole Slot in Bracket

Tighten Clamps

Bracket

Throttle Input Arm Stop Screw

Figure 9.26

9.27. Tighten the clamp on the bracket using an 8mm wrench.

9.28. With the throttle input arm fully relaxed, pull on the throttle cable core to take-up any slack, and lock it in position by tightening the clamp. us an 8mm wrench and a 10 mm wrench.

Figure 9.17

9.29. Depress the throttle pedal completely and compare the travel of the throttle input arm to the travel of the throttle pedal.

5 - 11

Section 5: The Fuel System

9.30. Adjust the clamps as necessary to make the travel of the pedal coincide with the travel of the throttle input arm.

9.31. If there is insufficient travel in the pedal to attain full travel at the throttle input arm, adjust the pedal stop bolts using two 9/16” wrenches.

Shoulder Bolt

Eyelet

Pedal Stop Bolts

NOTE: The cable should pull just tight enough for the throttle input arm stop screw to contact the stop plate at full throttle. There should be tension on the cable, but not “over-throw”.

9.33. Clamp the choke cable in position, using the match marks made when the choke cable clamp was loosened. Use an 8mm wrench.

9.34. Start the engine. Allow it to warm-up briefly.

9.35. Check the Idle speed using a tachometer. Adjust the idle speed 1,400 R.P.M. by bending the idle stop tab up or down. See Figure 9.35.

Idle Stop Tab

Figure 9.31

NOTE: Adjust the top bolt to allow 1/4” clear-

ance between the floor and the bottom edge of the throttle pedal.

NOTE: Adjust the bottom bolt to allow the throttle cable eyelet to hang loose on the shoulder bolt when the pedal is released.

9.32. After adjusting the pedal stops, re-check the adjustment at the engine end of the cable. See Figure 9.32.

Full throttle

Figure 9.35

9.36. Check Wide Open Throttle R.P.M. Adjust W.O.T. speed to 4,000 R.P.M. using the throttle input arm stop screw. See Figure 9.36.

Figure 9.32

Figure 9.36

5 - 12

Section 6: Front Suspension

1. Lifting the Big Country and Removing the Front Wheels

1.1. Turn the ignition off, and remove the keys from the key switch.

1.2. Set the parking brake.

1.3. Chock the rear wheels.

1.4. Remove the wheel bearing dust cover.

1.5. Loosen the wheel bolt using a 3/4” socket on breaker bar.

1.6. Safely lift the Big Country. See Figure 1.6.

CAUTION: Standard hydraulic jacks are lifting devices only. They should not be used to hold a vehicle in the air. They are only intended to raise the vehicle long enough to position jack stands under it.

CAUTION: Vehicles are to be lifted only on ground that is firm and level.

NOTE: Any structural area at the front of the Big Country can be used as a jacking point. The front mounting point for the front axles is heavily reinforced.

1.7. Place jack stands under the front of the Big country, and lower the vehicle onto them. See Figure 1.7.

NOTE: The axles can be used as a support point for some service procedures.

Supported by Front Axles

Figure 1.7

NOTE: The channel under the floor of the pas-

senger compartment is sturdy enough to support the Big Country on jack stands, but is prone to slippage under some conditions. The inner edge of the outrigger that supports the outer portion of the floor provide sturdy and secure placement for jack stands. See Figure 1.7.A

Figure 1.6

Front Mounting Point for Front Axles

Outrigger

Channel

Figure 1.7A

6 - 1

Section 6: Front Suspension

1.8. Remove the front wheel bolt and two flat washers completely. See Figure 1.8.

Outer Wheel Bearing

Flat Washers

Bolt

Figure 1.8

1.9. Slide the wheel off of the front axle.

1.10. To install a front wheel, apply anti-sieze com- pound to the stub axle to prevent corrosion. See Figure 1.10.

2. Front Suspension and Steering Component Inspection

2.1. Park the Big Country on firm, flat, level ground. Remove the keys from the key switch.

2.2. Check the air pressure in the front tires. It should be in the range of 5-6 psi. Adjust as necessary.

2.3. Check the ride height. Measure the distance between the ground and the bottom front corner of the channel beneath the floor on each side. See Figure 2.3.

Measure Ride Height

Apply Grease or Anti-sieze Compound

Figure 1.10

NOTE: The stub axle should be lubricated in this

fashion each time the steering knuckle is lubricated to insure ease of removal in the future.

1.11. Clean the wheel bolt, and apply Loctite 242 or similar thread locking compound to the threads.

1.12. Reverse the procedure used to remove the wheel.

Figure 2.3

NOTE: Depending on tire style, tread wear, and

air pressure in the tires, ride height will generally fall between 7

1/2” and 81/2” when the Big Country

is empty of passengers and cargo.

NOTE: Being level from side to side is more important than the absolute height.

NOTE: A weak or broken front spring is the most likely cause of unlevel ride height. To confirm that a single spring is weak, switch the front springs. If the low ride height follows the suspect spring, the source of the problem is confirmed.

2.4. Lift and support the front of the Big Country as described in “Lifting the Big Country and Removing the Front Wheels”. It is not necessary to loosen or remove the front wheels.

2.5. Inspect the tread pattern of the front tires using the following guidelines:

2.6. Pronounced tread wear at the center of the tread tends to indicate an overinflated condition.

NOTE: Tighten the front wheel bolt to a torque of 80-85 ft-lbs.

6 - 2

Section 6: Front Suspension

2.7. Pronounced tread wear at the inner edge of either front tire indicates a negative camber condition (leaning in at the top) at that wheel.

NOTE: If the Big Country is consistently operated with a heavy load, this may be normal wear for the conditions.

NOTE: Mechanical causes of negative camber include: weak or broken front springs, bent steering knuckle, bent axle assembly, bent spring mount.

NOTE: Worn wheel bearings or wear in the joint where the steering knuckle meets the axle assembly may cause apparent negative camber, but the worn items must be repaired before camber evaluation is made.

2.8. Pronounced tread wear at the outer edge of either front tire indicates a positive camber condition (leaning out at the top) at that wheel.

NOTE: Mechanical causes of positive camber Include: bent steering knuckle, bent axle assembly.

2.9. Feathered edges on the tread blocks indicate a toe angle issue. Proper alignment will correct this condition.

NOTE: If the tread blocks appear smeared (feathered) toward the outside edge of the tire, it has toe-in (the front of the tires is closer together than the back of the tires).

NOTE: If the tread blocks appear smeared (feathered) toward the inside edge of the tire, it has toe-out (the front of the tires is farther away from each other than the back of the tires).

2.12. Place a block next to each front tire for sighting purposes, and spin each tire. They should both spin true to within 1/4” measured at the sidewall. The bearings should spin quietly. See Figure 2.12.

Sighting Block

Spinning Tire

2.13. Grip the top and bottom of each front tire, and att e mpt to rock it i n a v e rtical plane. If mor e than 1/8” of play is present, identify the source of the play. See Figure 2.13.

Steering Knuckle

Watch Gap Here

Figure 2.12

Wheel Bearing Play Here

2.10. Scalloped tread indicates some form of oscillation while the tire is rotating. Mechanical sources of this sort of problem would include: bent wheels, a worn tie rod end, worn wheel bearings, failed shock and spring unit, worn joint between the steering knuckle and the axle assembly, worn steering rack, bad tire.

2.11. Check the condition of the rubber bump stops

Look For Play Here

Axle Assembly

Figure 2.13

NOTE: The two greatest potential sources of

play are worn wheel bearings and worn components at the joint between the steering knuckle and the axle assembly (sleeve bushings, pivot bolt, spacer).

6 - 3

Section 6: Front Suspension

2.14. With a helper holding the steering wheel, attempt to pivot each tire around its steering axis. If more than 1/8” of play is present, identify the source of the play.

NOTE: Sources of play in this direction are: worn or loose steering rack, worn wheel bearings, worn or loose tie rod ends, worn joint between the steering knuckle and the axle assembly.

2.15. Grip the tie rod end, and apply up and down pressure to it. There should not be excessive play within the tie rod end. See Figure 2.15.

Tie Rod End

2.17. Inspect the tie rods.

• If either one is visibly damaged, the steering rack should be replaced.

• If the jam nut that locks either tie rod end in position is found to be loose, check the toe angle and tighten the jam nut. Refer to the “checking and Adjusting Front Wheel Alignment” section of this manual.

2.18. Check both steering rack mounts for loose hardware, and inspect the rubber bushing that surrounds the steering rack on the passenger side steering mounting bracket. See Figure 2.18.

View From Right Side

Nut

Lock Washer

Rubber Bushing

Rubber Boot

Steering Axis

Figure 2.15

NOTE: Check the rubber boot around the

tapered stud of each tie rod end for tears.

2.16. Inspect the rubber boots on the steering rack. See Figure 2.16.

Steering Rack

Rubber Boot

Bolt

Steering Rack

Figure 2.18

2.19. Turn the steering wheel to full lock in each direction, and return it to center. It should not bind or make any unusual noises.

NOTE: If binding or noise are noticed, separate the tie rod ends from the steering knuckles to isolate the source. Refer to the “Tie Rod End Removal and Replacement” section of this manual.

2.20. Make a visual inspection of the steering rack. Look for signs of leakage or obvious physical damage.

2.21. Push the wheels forward and backward to check the bushings between the axle assembly and the frame.

Steering Mounting Bracket

Figure 2.16

6 - 4

Section 6: Front Suspension

2.22. Indications:

• If a wheel bearing is worn or damaged, refer to the “Wheel Bearing Removal and Replacement section of this manual.

• If components of the joint between the axle assembly and the steering knuckle are worn or damaged, refer to the “Steering Knuckle Removal and Replacement” section of this manual.

• If Steering components are found to be worn or damaged, refer to the “Steering Rack Removal and Replacement” or “Tie Rod End Removal and Replacement” section of this manual.

• If a front spring and shock unit is found to be worn or damaged refer to the “Spring and Shock Unit Removal and Replacement” section of this manual.

• If a front axle assembly, front axle assembly mounting hardware, or bushings are found to be worn or damaged, refer to the “Front Axle Assembly Removal and Replacement” section of this manual.

2.23. Lift the Big Country, remove the jack stands, and lower it to the ground.

NOTES

3.2. Turn the steering wheel all the way to the end of its travel in either direction, and note the position of any one of the steering wheel spokes.

Steering Arm (part of Steering knuckle)

Stop Bar on Axle Assembly

NOTE: The limit of travel is the point where the steering arm contacts the stop bar on the axle assembly.

3.3. Turn the steering wheel all the way to the opposite end of its travel. Count the number of degrees turned by the spoke noted in the previous step.

3. Checking and Adjusting Front Wheel Alignment

3.1. Perform the “Front Suspension and Steering Component Inspection” section of this manual. Replace any damaged components.

NOTE: Camber angle on the Big Country is a function of ride height. Because this angle varies with the load in the vehicle, no camber specification is given. If the camber angle appears unusual, or varies from left to right, it is most likely attributable to worn or bent components. It is not adjustable.

NOTE: Bump Steer on the Big Country is slight enough that it does not need to be accounted for. It is not necessary to match typical loaded conditions when setting the toe angle.

3.4. Divide the total number of degrees traveled by the spoke by two to find the center of the steering rack travel. Turn the steering wheel to the center of its travel. See Figure 3.4.

Wheel Not Centered

Figure 3.4

6 - 5

Cub Cadet Big Country User Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual

1. Safety

2. Model and Serial Numbers

4. Special Tools

3. Fasteners

5. Consumable Parts:

6. Lubrication Specifications.

1. Shift Linkage

2. Shift Linkage Removal and Replacement

3. Shift Linkage Adjustment

4. Checking Operation of the Differential Lock Mechanism

5. Differential Lock Linkage Removal and Replacement

6. Differential Lock Cable Adjustment

7. Brake System Description

8. Brake Cable Removal and Replacement

9. Brake Cable Adjustment

10. Clutch Pulley Brake and Shift Interlock Cable Removal and Replacement

11. Clutch Pulley Brake and Shift Interlock Adjustment

13. Clutch Pulley Brake Arm Removal and Replacement

14. Belt Removal and Replacement

17. Transmission Removal and Replacement

18. Internal Transmission Service

19. Torque Table: Clutch, Transmission, Brakes, Linkages

1. Lifting the Big Country and Removing the Drive Axle Wheels

2. Chain Lubrication

3. Chain Retention

4. Chain Tension Adjustment (Early units Equipped With Fixed Chain Guides)

5. Chain Guide Removal and Replacement (Early Production Units Equipped With Fixed Chain Guides)

6. Chain Removal and Replacement (Early Units Equipped With Fixed Chain Guides)

8. Spring and Shock Assembly Removal and Replacement

9. Front Drive Axle Removal and Replacement

12. Universal joint Service

13. Rear Drive Axle Removal and Replacement

14. Rear Sprocket Removal and Replacement

16. Axle and Bearing Removal and Replacement

17. Torque Table: Drive Axle

1. Engine and Transmission Support Assembly: Removal and Replacement as a Unit

2. Engine Removal and Replacement (Independent of Engine Support Assembly)

3. Engine Support Assembly Isolator Mounts (Rear), Removal and Replacement

4. Engine Support Assembly Isolator Mounts (Front), Removal and Replacement

1. Precautions

2. About the Fuel System

3. Fuel Tank Removal and Replacement

4. Fuel Pump Performance

5. Fuel Pump Removal and Replacement

6. Plenum and Air Filter

7. Choke Cable Removal and Replacement

8. Choke Cable Adjustment

9. Throttle Cable Removal and Replacement