This motorcycle is sold “as is” with all faults, obvious or not. There are no warranties
expressed or implied, including any warranty of merchantability and warranty of fitness
for any particular purpose.
“WARNING”
THE COBRA CX65 IS A COMPETITION MODEL ONLY AND IS NOT
MANUFACTURED FOR, NOR SHOULD IT BE USED ON PUBLIC STREETS, ROADS
OR HIGHWAYS.
THE USE OF THIS BIKE SHOULD BE LIMITED TO PARTICIPATION IN
SANCTIONED COMPETITION EVENTS UPON A CLOSED COURSE BY A
SUFFICIENTLY SKILLED RIDER AND SHOULD NOT BE USED FOR GENERAL
OFF-ROAD RECREATIONAL RIDING.
IMPROPER USE OF THIS MOTORCYCLE CAN CAUSE INJURY OR DEATH.
THIS BIKE IS INTENDED FOR EXPERIENCED RACERS ONLY AND NOT FOR
BEGINNERS.
IT IS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY AS THE OWNER OF THIS COBRA MOTORCYCLE
OR AS THE PARENT, OR LEGAL GUARDIAN OF THE OPERATOR, TO KEEP THIS
COBRA MOTORCYCLE IN PROPER OPERATING CONDITION.
THIS BIKE WAS DESIGNED FOR RIDERS THAT WEIGH LESS THAN 110 LBS WITH
FULL RIDING GEAR AND SHOULD NOT BE OPERATED BY RIDERS THAT WEIGH
MORE THAN THAT.
BE SURE THAT THE RIDER ALWAYS WEARS ADEQUATE SAFETY GEAR
EVERYTIME HE OR SHE RIDES THEIR COBRA MOTORCYCLE.
IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTICE
Failure to follow WARNING instructions could result in severe injury or death to
the machine operator, a bystander, or a person inspecting or repairing the
machine.
CAUTION:
A CAUTION indicates special precautions that must be taken to avoid damage to
the machine.
NOTE:
A NOTE provides key information to make procedures easier or clearer.
MCC62009 1
Page 4
Table Of Contents
GENERAL INFORMATION...................................................................................3
Type 2-stroke, single cylinder, reed valve
Cooling system Liquid-cooled
Coolant 50/50 antifreeze-coolant / distilled water
Displacement 64.9 cc
Bore and stroke 44.5 mm x 41.7 mm
Ignition system Electronic, digital advance
Spark plug Champion 8339-1, 8332-1 hotter, 8904-1 colder
Gap0.023” – 0.025” (0.58 – 0.64 mm)
Ignition timing Digital advance (set at TDC)
Fuel type High octane pump gasoline
Oil type
Fuel / oil mix ratios Between 32:1 and 40:1 (after engine Break-In)
Carburetion 24 mm VM Mikuni
Main Jet / Slow (Pilot) Jet210 / 40
Cobra Venom2-cycle Race Oil
Float Height21.1 ± 1.0
Transmission
Speed 6 speed
Final drive ratio 15/48
Chain 116 links 420
Transmission / clutch oil type Quality gear lubricant, or Cobra clutch milk
3
Needle5I 14 - 4
Do Not Run Automotive Motor Oil
Quantity530 ml (18.0oz)
Page 7
Chassis
Front tire 60/100 – 14
Rear tire 80/100 – 12
Front fork Marzocchi 35mm USD, Compression adjustable
Spark plug (SP) (SP) (SP) M14 x 1.25
Stator bolts 2.1 25 2.8 M5 X 0.8
Stator cover
bolts
Clutch cover
bolts
Clutch nut 35 420 47 M10 x 1.25*
Front axle bolt 10 120 13.5 M14 x 2.0
Front axle
pinch bolt
Engine mount
bolts
Swingarm
Pivot
Intake manifold
bolts
ft-lb in-lb Nm
12.5 150 17 M7 x 1.0
8.8 105 12 M6 x 1.0
5 60 6 M6x1.0
1.7 20 2.3 M4 X 0.75
5.8 70 7.9 M6 X 1.0
7.4 88.5 10 M6 X 1.0
22 265 30 M8 X 1.25
21 250 28 M12 X 1.5
4.6 55 6.2 M6 X 1.0
Torque Value
Size &
Remarks
Rear Axle Bolt 25 300 34 M14 X 1. 5
Rear Sprocket
Bolts
Triple clamp
bolts
Fork cap 15 177 20
Fork Damper
Nut
Ignition rotor
nut
* Apply high strength thread locking agent when installing
(SP) To apply the proper torque to the spark plug when inserting, one must first
screw the spark plug in until the metal gasket ring causes resistance and then
turn another 1/8 to ¼ turn.
5
20 240 27 M8 X 1.25
6 72 8 M6 x 1.0
11 133 15
40 480 54 M10 x 1.25*
Page 9
Break-In Procedure
Your Cobra CX65 is a close-tolerance high performance machine and break-in
time is very important for maximum life and performance. The CX65 can be
ridden hard after the first ½ hour break-in time but it is recommended that no
adjustments are made to the carburetion or suspension until the full 8 hours of
bike break-in has elapsed. Also, after the engine, transmission, and drive train
have been broken-in for the full 8 hours, the bike will be faster!
Use a fuel / oil mixture of 32:1 for the full 8 hour break-in period. Be sure to use
high octane pump gas with Cobra’s specially formulated Cobra Venom2-cycle Race Oil. (Part # MCMUOL02)
CAUTION:
Failure to use proper fuel, oil, or fuel/oil mixture may result in premature engine
wear or damage to the machine.
Adhering to the following break-in schedule will result in long lasting high
performance machine.
• Start bike on stand
• First 5 minute period, operate the bike on the stand with a combination of idle
and high RPM operation. (avoid prolonged high RPM but spin the rear
wheel good at least once or twice per minute)
• Allow bike to cool
• Ride for 15 minutes maximum (avoid prolonged high RPM operation and
avoid abusing the clutch).
• Cool and inspect bike for loose fasteners.
• Check & retighten wheel spokes
• Next ½ hour of operation, avoid prolonged operation at Wide Open Throttle.
• After 1 hour of operation
o Check for loose bolts and nuts on the bike and retighten as
necessary (proper toque values are listed under Specifications).
o Clean the carburetor bowl.
o Change the transmission / clutch lubricant.
• After 8 hours of operation
o Change the fork oil.
o Have a Certified Cobra Mechanic change the shock oil.
• Your bike is now ready for the highest level of competition!
NOTE:
During break-in the bike will likely lose some engine coolant through the radiator
overflow hose. Losing up to 4 oz (120 ml, ½ cup) is normal. Proper coolant level
will cover the top of the radiator cores. Removing the radiator cap and looking
inside is the only way to check the coolant level.
6
Page 10
Never open the radiator cap of a machine that has a hot or warm engine or one
that has recently been ridden. Burning and scalding could occur.
CAUTION:
It is important that the radiator cap is installed correctly and completely otherwise
engine damage could occur.
Starting Procedure
Before starting the machine inspect the following:
• Check for proper tire pressure in both tires.
• Observe the chain tension and adjust if necessary.
• Observe the coolant level and fill if necessary.
• Verify that the chain rollers and sliders do not have improper wear.
• Verify that the handlebars are tight.
• Check the throttle for smooth operation and sound closing.
• Check for loose bolts and nuts, and re-torque as necessary.
• Verify that the air filter is clean and properly saturated with oil.
• Insure that the fuel tank contains an adequate volume of fuel / oil mixture to
complete the distance required. (High octane pump gas with Cobra’s
specially formulated Cobra Venom2-cycle Race Oil)
• Turn the fuel on by rotating the fuel petcock lever to the vertically downward
position.
CAUTION:
For best results from your Cobra Motorcycle use only the recommended fuels.
‘Race’ fuels can be used, however, they are not required with the stock engine,
and the engine will require addition attention to maintain proper jetting as
weather condition change throughout the day.
Always wear a helmet and other protective riding gear.
When your pre-ride inspection is complete the bike may be started. For a cold
engine follow this procedure.
1. Place the motorcycle on a stand of sufficient strength that positions the
motorcycle in a level upright position with the rear wheel off the ground.
2. Engage the choke by pulling out on the choke button until it stops.
3. Kick start the engine.
4. Rev the engine in short spurts, turning the throttle no more than 1/4 open
until the engine will run without the choke.
5. Verify a functional engine shut-off switch by shutting off the engine.
6. Restart the engine and proceed with riding when the engine is sufficiently
warm (i.e. the side of the cylinder is warm to touch).
7
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CAUTION:
Never rev an engine full throttle when it's cold or slightly warmed up. This may
lead to premature wear of engine components or complete cold seizure of the
engine.
CAUTION:
Cobra recommends that you tell your child to take it easy the first couple of
minutes in practice until the engine comes up to full operating temperature.
Maintenance
It is important that you adhere to this maintenance schedule so as to promote the
longevity of your Cobra Motorcycle.
Tips
1. Cobra lubricants:
a. Use only high quality transmission oil designed specifically for two-
stroke racing engines.
b. Cobra Two Cycle Oil exceeds the JASO FD & ISO-L-EGD
specifications, which are the world’s most stringent requirements on
lubrication, detergency, and smoke.
2. Fill your transmission only with the recommended amount of oil. Overfilling
may lead to premature seal failure.
3. The cylinder base gasket has been ‘fitted’ for your engine. See the service
section of this manual for instructions how to properly size a base gasket
during an engine rebuild.
4. Evaluate the bikes jetting only after it has been warmed up to race
temperatures.
5. A properly maintained machine is safer, faster, and more fun to ride.
6. New chains will stretch on first use. Never install a new chain prior to a
race. Always ‘break’ them in during practice.
7. Your Cobra Motorcycle has a 10 digit VIN (Vehicle Identification Number).
The first two digits indicate the model and the seventh indicates the model
year (MY).
a. Example, CXxxxx7xxx is a 2007 MY CX65.
Schedule
• Between each ride
o Check the air filter (clean and re-oil as necessary).
o Insure the smooth operation of the throttle cable (throttle soundly
‘clacks’ shut).
o Check for frayed strands of the throttle cable inside the throttle housing
and replace if necessary.
o Check for adequate tire pressures and adjust if necessary.
o Check all nuts and bolts for proper torque and re-torque if necessary.
8
Page 12
o Spray all moving parts with WD40 or other water displacing oil.
o Check drive chain for
Proper tension and adjust if necessary.
Adequate lubrication and lubricate if necessary.
o Insure that the ignition stator and rotor are clean and dry.
o Check the frame for cracks in the metal or cracks in the paint that
might indicate that the metal has been stressed beyond it’s safe limits.
Replace or get properly re-welded as necessary.
o Check the spokes for tightness and adjust if necessary.
o Check the rims and hubs for signs of stress, like cracks around the rim,
spokes and hub.
• Every 2 hours of operation
o Replace the transmission oil.
o Check spoke tension
• Every 10 hours of operation
o Replace the fork oil.
o Have the shock oil replaced by a Certified Cobra Mechanic.
CAUTION:
If you ever need to weld anything on the bike, disconnect the spark plug cap,
unplug the ignition, disconnect the kill switch, scrape the paint bare near the area
to be welded and put the ground clamp as close to the area to be welded as
possible.
Be sure the fuel tank and carburetor have been removed and safely located
away from the welding process.
The frame is a combination of HSLA steel and 4130 Chrome Moly and it is
important to weld it with the proper rod and heat settings set as light as possible.
Cobra recommends replacing the frame with a new one if the old one becomes
damaged. Use ER70S6 filler if welding on the frame.
9
Page 13
Replacing Transmission / Clutch Lubricant
Tools needed:
• 18 oz, of high quality transmission oil, or Cobra clutch milk
• 8 mm Allen wrench
CAUTION:
General automotive motor oil has frictional modifiers which will cause premature
wear and failure of the clutch.
Procedure:
1. Begin this procedure with a bike that has been ridden more than 5 minutes
but less than 10 minutes. It is desired to have the engine warm enough so
that the oil is ‘runny’ but not so hot that there is risk of being burned by the
engine or the oil.
Hot oil and hot components on the
motorcycle may cause burns.
2. Lean the bike against something
or set on stand with oil drain
hole.
3. Using a 8mm Allen wrench,
remove the oil drain bolt located
on the right side of the engine,
on the clutch cover, near the
brake lever (See Figure 1).
NOTE: You may need to adjust the brake pedal (up or down) to gain access to
the drain bolt.
4. After it has drained, reinstall the bolt being sure that the rubber gasket is in
place. Torque to 11 Nm (8 ft-lb).
5. Remove oil fill plug with an 8mm Allen wrench.
6. Carefully pour 16 oz (470 ml) of transmission oil into the oil fill opening.
7. Reinstall the oil fill plug making sure the rubber gasket is in place.
NOTE: Filling after an engine rebuild required additional transmission fluid. If the
engine is completely flushed of oil, refill with 18 oz (530ml).
Figure 1.
Always capture and dispose of used oil properly (all auto parts stores accept
used oil). Dumping oil on the ground is illegal, inconsiderate, and can get you
disqualified from a race weekend quicker than cutting the track.
10
Page 14
Chain adjustment
Tools required for chain adjustment
• 22 mm wrench or socket
• 2 - 11 mm open-end wrenches
1. Make sure that the
rear wheel is aligned
properly.
2. For proper
adjustment, the chain
should have 35 mm
free movement just
behind the chain
block with no load on
the bike (Figure 2)
CAUTION:
Sit on the bike and verify
that the chain has a
minimum of 12mm (1/2”) free movement when the chain is at its tightest point.
3. If the chain requires
adjusting, loosen the axle
with a 22mm wrench, and
loosen the jam nut with an
11mm wrench. Tighten the
chain by rotating the
adjustor bolts clockwise
(CW) or loosen the chain by
rotating the adjustor bolts
(CCW).
4. Put a rag between the
sprocket and chain, and roll
the wheel backward to pull
the chain adjustor blocks
tightly against the adjustor
bolts (Figure 3).
5. Retighten the axle bolt to 25
ft-lb (34 Nm).
6. Retighten the adjustor jam nuts.
CAUTION:
Always check rear brake adjustment and free-play after adjusting the chain.
Figure 2.
Figure 3.
11
Page 15
Air Filter Cleaning
Tools recommended for air filter maintenance:
• 5 mm hex key (Allen)
• Foam filter oil
Procedure
1. Removed seat with the 5mm hex key.
2. Unhook the air filter wire from its perch
3. Carefully remove the air filter and
frame out the top of the airbox making
sure not to dislodge any dirt into the
intake tract.
4. Clean the filter in a nonflammable
solvent to remove the filter oil.
Do not clean the air filter with gasoline or
other highly volatile petroleum product. Diesel fuel, mineral spirits, or kerosene
would be preferred but caution should still be taken.
5. Clean the filter in hot soapy water to remove all dirt particles.
6. Allow it to dry thoroughly.
7. Saturate with filter oil and remove
excess.
NOTE:
It is very important to keep the air filter
clean and properly oiled with high quality
water-resistant foam filter oil. Apply oil
consistently because varied amounts of oil
will affect carburetor jetting.
8. Reinstall the filter assembly by pushing
it down and forward into the airbox
making sure the lip of the filter cage is
properly seated into its receptacle
(figure 5). Reinstall the air filter cap and
holding wire.
CAUTION:
Double check to insure that the filter is pushed in tight at the bottom
NOTE:
Make sure you change or clean your filter after each moto. We recommend
carrying multiple filters in your toolbox, one for each practice session and moto.
Figure 4.
12
Page 16
Fork Oil Replacement
Requirements
• 19mm and 27mm combination wrench
• 6mm and 10mm hex key (Allen)
• Flexible retrieving tool
• 10w fork oil (approximately 210cc per fork leg)
Disassembly
1. Remove the front wheel and front brake caliper.
2. Remove the fork legs from the triple clamps.
3. Perform the following on each fork leg:
a. Remove the fork cap from the fork tube using a 27mm wrench.
b. Lower the fork tube to expose the fork spring.
c. Pull the fork spring down from the fork cap to expose the damper rod lock
nut. Secure this nut using a 19mm wrench.
d. With a 19mm wrench on the damper rod nut, use a 27mm wrench to free
the fork cap from the damper rod.
e. Remove the 19mm wrench and allow the damper rod to fall into the
damper tube.
f. Remove the fork spring and spacer.
g. Invert the fork to allow the oil to drain. Pump the damper rod assembly
several times to help the oil drain.
Assembly
1. Completely collapse the outer fork tube onto the stanchion tube. Add enough
oil to the fork to fill the cartridge tube. Pump the damper rod up and down
slowly to help the assembly fill with oil.
2. Once the cartridge assembly is bled, continue to fill the fork with oil until it is
120mm +/- 2.5mm from the top of the fork.
3. Install the fork spring.
4. Use a flexible retrieving tool to pull the damper rod up through the fork spring.
Pull the fork spring down from the damper rod to expose the damper rod lock
nut. Secure this nut using a 19mm wrench.
5. Install the spacer and fork cap to the damper rod. Ensure that the fork cap is
completely threaded onto the damper rod before it makes contact with the
lock nut. Torque the damper rod lock nut to 15N-m (11ft-lb).
6. Install the fork cap to the fork tube. Torque the fork cap to 20Nm (15ft-lb).
7. Pump the fork leg several times to verify that it operates smoothly.
8. Install each leg back into the triple clamp. Torque each pinch bolt to 11N-m (8
ft-lb) making sure both legs are set to the same height in the clamps.
9. Install the front wheel, and torque the axle to 13.5N-m (10 ft-lb).
10. Drop the bike onto the ground, engage the front brake, and push up and
down on the handlebars several time to ensure that the front forks and the
front wheel are properly aligned with each other.
11. Tighten the axle pinch bolts to 10N-m (7.4 ft-lb).
13
Page 17
Ignition Timing
The ignition timing value for the 2009 CX65 is 5° retarded from the standard base
reference (0°). This can be verified by removing the ignition cover and looking as
shown in the figure below.
The center mark on the cases is the standard base reference timing mark (0°),
and the other two large marks are 5° advanced and retarded. The small timing
marks between 0 & 5° is 2.5°.
To change the timing, one must remove the flywheel with Cobra 65 flywheel
puller # MCMUTL05. After the flywheel has been removed, the timing can be
adjusted by loosening the stator bolts and rotating the stator to the desired
position.
14
Page 18
Parts
Parts – Airbox & Inlet System
Coolant System
REF # PART # DESCRIPTION
1 RCC60007 AIRBOX 07 65
2 TCC60008 MUD FLAP 07 65
3 HCSP0003 SCREW - PLASCREW
4 MCKGHO03 CLAMP, AIR BOOT TO AIR BOX
5 RCC60002 AIR FILTER 07 65
6 RCC60003 AIR FILTER CAGE
7 RCC60004 AIR FILTER WIRE 07 65
8 RCC60014 AIR BOOT, CARB TO AIRBOX 65
9 RCC60006 AIR FILTER CAP 07 65
10 ECC60006 REED ASSEMBLY 07 65
NOT SHOWN
11 ECC60007 INLET MANIFOLD 07 65
12 HCBC0602 6X20MM SOCKET HEAD CAP SCREW
13 MCC60003 CLAMP, MANIFOLD TO CARB
14 ZCC60021 GASKET REED 07 65
15 RCC60001 CARBURETOR 24MM MIKUNI
16 MCMUCL04 HOSE CLAMP 8MM
17 FCMU0026 FUEL LINE
ECC60034 BRASS COOLANT PLUG WITH SEAL
15 ZCMUOR02 O-RING, CYLINDER HEAD LARGE
16 ZCMUV024 O-RING CYLINDER HEAD SMALL
17 ZCMUOR10 O-RING CYLINDER STUD (4 REQ’D)
18 ECC60029 CYLINDER HEAD INSERT 09 65
19 ZCMUV032 O-RING CYLINDER HEAD MEDIUM
20 ECMU0147 STUD, CYLINDER 7mm
31 ECC60015 BUSHING ENGINE / SWINGARM PIVOT CX65
32 ECMU0549 BEARING, NEEDLE, SHIFT DRUM LEFT SIDE
EKEX0001 ROD KIT
27
Page 31
Parts – Exhaust System
Exhaust System
REF # PART # DESCRIPTION
1 XAC62008 EXPANSION CHAMBER 08
2 XCMU0033 ISOLATION MOUNT (2 REQ’D)
6MM CLIP NUT-PLASTIC/PIPE MNT (2 REQ’D FOR PIPE & 2
3 HCHA0003
4 HCBF0616 6X16MM FLANGE HEAD BOLT (2 REQ’D)
5 HCBF0612 6X12MM FLANGE HEAD BOLT (2 REQ’D)
6 HCCN0000 5MM EXTRUDED “U” NUT
7 HCBC0516 5X16MM SHCS FOR RIGHT SHROUD MOUNT
8 ZCMOTE11 O-RING – EXHAUST (2 REQ’D)
9 XCMU0005 SPRING – PIPE – SHORT
10 XCKG0009 GROMMET – SILENCER TO PIPE
11 XCMU0032 SILENCER 10” ROUND 2007
12 MCMUGR03 GROMMET FOR RADIATOR (4 REQ’D)
13 TCKG0001 SPACER GENERAL ½DIA 13.2 LG (2 REQ’D)
14 TCC60016 SPACER TOP HAT (2 REQ’D)
15 HCBF0630 6X30 FLANGE HEX-8MM HEAD
NOT SHOWN
XCMU0026 SILENCER PACKING KIT
REQ’D FOR SILENCER)
28
Page 32
Parts –
Forks – Leg
Assembly
Fork Leg Assembly
REF # PART # DESCRIPTION
KACX6527 FORK SET – 2008 CX64
1 FORK LEG OUTER
2 KCC60004 BUSHING – TOP
3 WASHER
4 KCC60002 FORK SEAL
5 KCC60011 CLIP RING
6 KCC60003 DUST COVER (SWIPER)
7 KCC60012 BLEED SCREW WITH SEAL
8 CAP – REBOUND SIDE
9 O-RING – FORK CAP
10 KCC60005 BUSHING – BOTTOM
11 FORK LEG INNER – NON BRAKE SIDE
12 KCC60006 SEAL – PISTON
13 KCC60009 BASE VALVE BODY
14 BOLT – FORK BOTTOM
15 KCC60008 WASHER – FORK BOTTOM
16 BOLT – AXLE CLAMP
17 KCC60007 CAP - COMPRESSION SIDE
18 SPACER – PRELOAD
19 KCC60024 FORK SPRING .24 KG/MM
KCC60026 FORK SPRING .26 KG/MM STANDARD
KCC60028 FORK SPRING .28 KG/MM HEAVY
20 FORK LEG INNER – BRAKE SIDE
21 KCC60014 FORK GUARDS – PAIR (3 BOLT STYLE)
22 HCBC0601 6MM X 16 SHCS
23 KCC60019 SPACER – FORK GUARD MOUNTING
24 BCC60015 CLAMP – BRAKE LINE
25 HCNS0601 6MM NUT
26 HCBC0612 6MM X 12 SHCS
27 BCC60013 BRAKE BRACKET
28 HCBC0820 8X20MM SHCS
29 HCBC0812 8X12MM SHCS LOW HEAD
29
Page 33
Parts – Frame & Triple Clamps
Frame
REF # PART # DESCRIPTION
1 FACX6507 FRAME WELDED ASSEMBLY 07 65
2 FAC60002 SUBFRAME CX65 W/ BEARING RACES
3 HCBB0835 8X35MM BUTTON HEAD SCREW (2 REQ’D) – TOP MOUNT
4 HCFH0825 8X25MM FLAT HEAD CAP SCREW – (2 REQ’D) – BOTTOM MOUNT
5 FCC60020 CHAIN ROLLER W BEAR & SEALS
BCDC0153 WASHER
6 TCMU0039 FOOTPEG SET ULTRA WIDE CX65
TCC60012 FOOTPEG SPRING ULTRA WIDE 07 (2 REQ’D)
HCBH0840 8MM X 40 HEX HEAD 30MM NO THRD – FOOTPEG (2 REQ’D)
HCWF0803
HCNL0802 8MM LOCKNUT – FOOTPEG (2 REQ’D)
7 WCKG0011 SWINGARM PIVOT BOLT
HCWF1202 12MM FLAT WASHER
HCNL1201 12MM LOCKNUT
8 HCBH0865 8X65MM HEX HEAD – FRONT ENGINE MOUNTS (2 REQ’D)
HCWF0801 8MM FLAT WASHER – FRONT ENGINE MOUNTS (4 REQ’D)
HCNL0801 8MM LOCKNUT – FRONT ENGINE MOUNTS (2 REQ’D)
9 HCBH0807 8X20MM HEX HEAD – STEERING STOP (2 REQ’D)
TCC60021 SPACER – FRONT FENDER BOLT
HCBF0612 M6X12 FLANGE HEAD BOLT – FRONT NUMBER PLATE MOUNT
HCSP0003 PLASCREW – SHROUDS TO TANK (4 REQ’D)
HCBC0501 M5X12 SOCKET HEAD – SHROUDS TO FRAME (2 REQ’D)
HCBC0516 M5X16 SHOCKET HEAD-STROUDS TO RAD & EXH (2 REQ’D)
HCCN0000 5MM EXTRUDED “U” NUT TO RAD & EXH (2 REQ’D)
TCC60017 BODY PANEL WASHER 5MM (4 REQ’D)
TCHA0003 HOSE – FUEL CAP
TCHA0005 SPACER – SEAT MOUNT
HCFH0620 M6X20 FLAT HEAD – FRONT SEAT MOUNT
TCHA0006 SPACER – FRONT TANK MOUNT
HCBF0630 6MM X 30 FLANGE HEAD BOLT
TCMU0000 FUEL PETCOCK
RCC60012 FUEL LINE
MCMUCL04 HOSE CLAMPS – FUEL LINE (2 REQ’D)
HCBC0625 M6X25 SOCKET HEAD CAP SCREW – SEAT HOLDING
TCC60018 SPECIAL WASHER – SEAT HOLDING
HCBC0516 M5X16 SOCKET HEAD CAP SCREW (3 REQ’D)
HCBF0630 M6X30 FLANGE HEAD BOLT – SILENCER (2 REQ’D)
TCC60017 BODY PANEL WASHER 5MM (3 REQ’D)
TCC60016 BODY PANEL WASHER 6MM (2 REQ’D)
HCSP0003 PLASCREW – FENDER TO AIRBOX (2 REQ’D)
HCBC0516 M5x16 SOCKET HEAD CAP SCREW (2 REQ’D)
HCWP0002 WASHER - BODY PANEL (2 REQ’D)
HCHA0003 CLIP NUT – 6MM
This portion of the manual is still under development. If you have questions
please call the Cobra technical support line at 517 437 9100.
Engine Service
One method for determining whether the top end of your engine needs rebuilt is
to perform a WOT (Wide Open Throttle) kicking compression test. Before
performing the procedure please read the caution notes below.
CAUTION:
• There appears to be a wide range of variability in reading compression
gauges across the country.
• The head volume of this Cobra Motorcycle is very small and so requires many
kicks ~20 before you establish the most accurate reading possible.
• Because of the geometry of the spark plug used in this Cobra Motorcycle, the
adapter used with your compression tester must have a similar volume
protruding into the combustion chamber to establish an accurate value.
• Length of hose on the compression tester will affect the reading. The shorter
the hose length the more accurate your reading will be.
Because of these difficulties in measuring an absolute compression value, a
useful relative value can be achieved by testing your bike’s compression with
your own particular gauge after a new top end or when the bike is new so that
you know what your particular gauge reads on a ‘fresh’ engine. When it has
dropped to 90% of its original value the engine will be down on power and would
benefit from a rebuild. When it’s dropped to 80% it really needs rebuilt! Using the
table below will help you determine monitor the condition of your top end.
2. Install the compression gauge into the spark plug hole.
3. Hold the throttle to wide open, and kick repeatedly (approximately 20 times)
or until the gauge reading does not increase in value with each kick.
Base Gasket Selection
Tools required
• 17mm wrench
• 1mm flexible solder material
• measurement calipers
When rebuilding the ‘top end’ of your Cobra motorcycle, care must be taken to
ensure the proper squish clearance. Squish clearance is defined as the minimum
distance between cylinder head and piston at TDC, and there are negative
effects of either having too much or too little clearance. Since parts like the crank,
connecting rod, cylinder head, piston, and crankcases all have varying
tolerances, Cobra offers several different base gasket thickness’ to ensure that
you can always set the squish clearance of your engine to factory specifications.
For base gasket replacement use the code (see figure 21 for location) along with
the table on the following page reorder the correct thickness gasket.
Tolerances will affect the actual gasket thicknesses.
38
Figure 21
Cobra #
Page 42
If during the course of the maintenance more parts than the base gasket are
changed, the squish clearance should be measured, and possibly a different
base gasket will be required.
The easiest way to measure squish clearance is with 1mm to 1.5mm thick
flexible solder wire (available through most popular electronic stores). The
process is as follows:
• Assemble the top end of the engine with either; 1) the crankcase stamp
recommended base gasket or, 2) if assembling with a new set of cases
assemble with a 0.4mm (0.015”) base gasket, and torque the head nuts to
the proper torque specifications leaving off the spark plug and ignition cover
(piston rings can be left off to ease assembly).
• Carefully insert the solder wire though the spark plug hole, into the cylinder
far enough such that the tip of the wire touches the left or right side cylinder
wall (not the front or back as the piston will rock more and give incorrect
measurement).
• Hold the wire at this position and rotate the crankshaft, by the flywheel nut (or
kick lever) three revolutions to ‘smush’ the solder wire.
CAUTION:
If you rotate the flywheel nut in a counterclockwise direction there is a risk of
loosening the nut.
• Pull out the wire and measure the solder thickness at the thinnest location
near its tip accurately with the thin tips of calipers.
• Adjust base gasket thickness as necessary to get the desired value.
Upon completion, your final assembly squish clearance should agree with the
chart below
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Fuel & Air System
Carburetor:
Tools recommended for carburetor service:
• Small flat head screwdriver
• WD-40
• 6mm socket
Your Cobra is equipped with an
adjustable carburetor. Some finetuning may be needed according to
weather condition and altitude.
Proper jetting is very important for
engine performance and engine life.
Serious damage to the engine can
occur if not properly adjusted.
IDLE ADJUSTMENT:
On the each side of the carburetor,
there are two adjustment screws.
The right side screw with the
knurled head is the idle adjustment
screw. To raise the idle, turn the
screw in clockwise (in 1/4 turn
increments) and rev the engine
after each adjustment. To lower the
idle, turn the screw counterclockwise.
TOP END JETTING:
Indications that the engine is
running too rich (too much fuel for the air) are:
• Engine not revving out or blubbering at high RPMs.
• Engine will not ‘clean out’
• Wet or black spark plug
NOTE: Before changing jetting be sure that the air filter is properly cleaned and
has the usual amount of air filter oil. An overly dirty air filter can cause the engine
to run rich.
If the engine is running rich on the top end it should be leaned out. Leaning it out
can be done by:
1. Changing the main jet to a smaller number.
2. Raising the needle clip (this lowers the jet needle) one notch at a time on the
slide.
Indications that the engine is running too lean are:
• Engine cutting out on top end.
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• Engine overheating and ultimately seizure.
• White spark plug
CAUTION:
It is much safer to operate the engine slightly rich as opposed to slightly lean.
This is because an overly rich engine will just run poorly while an overly lean
engine will seize, potentially causing an expensive top end rebuild and a DNF.
To richen the carburetor:
1. Change the main jet one number at a time (larger).
2. Lower the needle clip (raising the jet needle) one notch at a time until the
engine starts to blubber on the top end, then move the clip back up one notch
or until you get the blubber out.
FUEL MIXTURE SCREW
The left side brass screw is a fuel mixture (air) screw. This screw will also richen
and lean your engine more on the bottom and mid-range. In warmer conditions,
turn the screw in. In colder conditions, turn the screw out. Be sure to keep the
carburetor very clean and make sure you don't have water or dirt in the
carburetor bowl. Use automotive carburetor cleaner or WD-40 to clean the
carburetor inside and out. Turning the screw in richens the mixture at partial
throttle openings. Turing the screw out, leans it.
STOCK CARBURETOR SETTINGS
The 2009 CX65 stock carburetor settings from the factory are:
• 40 pilot jet
• 210 main jet
Cleaning the carburetor:
Clean the carburetor in a well-ventilated area, and take care that there is no
spark or flame anywhere near the working area; this includes any appliance with
a pilot light. Because of the danger of highly flammable liquids, do not use
gasoline or low flash-point solvent to clean the carburetor.
1. Make sure the fuel is shut off.
2. Remove the carburetor.
3. Drain the fuel from the carburetor.
4. Disassemble the carburetor.
5. Immerse all the metal parts in a carburetor cleaning solution.
6. After the parts are cleaned, dry them with compressed air.
7. Blow out the fuel passages with compressed air.
8. Assemble the carburetor
9. Install the carburetor onto the motorcycle.
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Rear Shock
The rear shock is fully serviceable but it is recommended that only trained
professionals should service your shock. Contact Cobra or another qualified
specialist (PR2, MCR, etc..) for questions and service of your CX65shock.
1.1.1.1. Heavier weight oil – more damping – slower responding
1.1.1.2. Lighter weight oil – less damping – quicker responding
1.1.2. Oil quantity / level
1.1.2.1. Greater quantity / higher level – greater bottoming
resistance, stiffer near the end of the travel.
1.1.2.2. Smaller quantity / lower level – less bottoming resistance,
less stiff near the end of the travel.
1.2. Fork spring
1.2.1. Stiffer spring (higher spring rate) – stiffer throughout the travel.
1.2.2. Less stiff spring (lower spring rate) – less stiff throughout the travel.
1.3. Gas pressure – always bleed off any pressure.
1.4. Fork height
1.4.1. Rise in clamps for quicker turning.
1.4.2. Lower in clamps for improved straight line stability.
2. Rear shock
2.1. Preload adjustment
2.1.1. More preload (greater distance) – less race sag.
2.1.2. Less preload (smaller distance) – more race sag.
2.2. Shock spring
2.2.1. Stiffer spring – stiffer throughout the travel.
2.2.2. Less stiff spring – less stiff throughout the travel.
2.3. Compression damping
2.3.1. Harder (more damping, slower) – adds resistance to the
suspension motion when the suspension is compressing.
2.3.2. Softer (less damping, quicker) – reduces resistance to the
suspension motion when the suspension is compressing.
2.4. Rebound damping
2.4.1. Harder (more damping, slower) – adds resistance to the
suspension motion when the suspension is returning to full length.
2.4.2. Softer (less damping, quicker) - reduces resistance to the
suspension motion when the suspension is returning to full length
Front Forks Bottoming Too Frequently Fork oil level
If the front forks bottom harshly more than a couple of times per lap and the fork
springs are proper for the weight of rider (as detailed above), try raising the fork
oil level in increments of 10mm. Raising the fork oil level, reduces the air volume,
and increases the stiffness of the forks late in the travel, thus adding a
progressive’ feel.
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Front forks feel too stiff over small bumps. Fork oil weight
If the forks feel too stiff over small bumps try decreasing the weight (increasing
the viscosity) of the fork oil.
Rear suspension troubleshooting. Damping
Always start with standard settings and make damping changes in no more than
two click increments and only make one change at a time.
Symptom Action
Rear end feels stiff on small bumps Softer compression damping
Rear end ‘sways’ on straights Harder compression damping
Bike tends to jump ‘rear end high’ Harder rebound damping
Bike tends to jump ‘rear end low’ Softer rebound damping
Frequent rear end bottoming Harder compression damping
Bottoms after end of continuous bumps Softer rebound damping
Rear end ‘kicks’ over square edge bumps 1) Harder rebound, 2) Softer
Compression
Proactive Suspension Adjustments
Once you have the suspension adjusted for decent overall feel, you can make
proactive adjustments when faced with different racing conditions.
Situation Actions
Sand track Lower the rear end (increase race sag).
Sand track Stiffer compression and rebound damping.
Long fast track Lower the forks in the clamps by 3 mm.
Tight slow track Raise the forks in the clamps by 3 mm.
Mud track Lower the bike if the rider has difficulties
touching the ground.
Carburetion
Although your Cobra is sent from the factory with the carburetor jetted for optimal
performance, you may find it necessary to adjustment your particular jetting due
to current weather conditions, altitude, fuel variations, and/or engine
modifications.
CAUTION:
Proper jetting is very important for engine performance and engine life.
Symptoms of improper jetting are listed below.
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• Symptoms of incorrect oil or oil / fuel ratio
o Poor acceleration
o Misfire at low engine speeds
o Excessive smoke
o Spark plug fouling
o Excessive black oil dripping from exhaust system
• Symptoms of too rich a fuel mixture
o Poor acceleration
o Engine will not ‘rev’ out, blubbers on top
o Misfire at low engine speeds
o Excessive smoke
o Spark plug fouling
o Wet, black, or overly dark spark plug (when removed for inspection)
• Symptoms of too lean a fuel mixture
o Pinging or rattling
o Erratic acceleration
o Same actions as running out of fuel
o High engine temperature
o White spark plug (when removed for inspection)
NOTE:
When inspecting the spark plug to evaluate jetting, a properly jetted machine will
produce a spark plug that is dry and light tan in color.
Environmental and altitude related mixture adjustments
Condition Mixture will be Required adjustment
Cold air Leaner Richer
Warm air Richer Leaner
Dry air Leaner Richer
Very humid air Richer Leaner
Low altitude Standard None
High altitude Richer Leaner
Low barometric pressure Richer Leaner
High barometric pressure Leaner Richer
NOTE:
• Before making any carburetor jetting changes verify that:
o You are using the proper fuel and oil
o The fuel is fresh and uncontaminated
o The oil and fuel have been mixed in the proper ratio
o The carburetor is clean (no plugged jets)
o The air filter is properly clean and oiled
o The float height is within proper specification (proper measuring technique
is described later in this section)
NOTE:
Perform all jetting changes on a motorcycle that has been warmed up to proper
operating temperature.
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The carburetor on your Cobra motorcycle is quite adjustable. Figure 49 shows
its range of adjustment and in particular what adjustable component affects what
range of operation (specifically throttle position).
FUEL SCREW ADJUSTMENT: Adjust for throttle response
The air adjustment screw is located on the left side of the carburetor. It requires
the use of a small flat blade screw driver for adjustment. After adjusting for
proper throttle response, use the idle screw to adjust the desired idle speed.
NOTE:
If the air screw requires more than 3 turns out, replace the pilot jet for one that is
one size leaner (smaller number) then readjust the fuel screw.
IDLE ADJUSTMENT: Adjust for desired idle speed
The idle speed screw is located on the right side of the carburetor. It is hidden
behind the exhaust stinger pipe and is barely reachable with a screwdriver. To
raise the idle, turn the screw in, clockwise, (in 1/4 turn increments) and rev the
engine after each adjustment. To lower the idle, turn the screw counterclockwise.
TOP END JETTING: Adjust for clean full throttle acceleration
Jet your top end (main jet) based on the acceleration of your Cobra Motorcycle
on the longest straight at the track. Observe any of the lean or rich symptoms
(spark plug appearance and bike performance) listed above and change your
jetting accordingly.
PART THROTTLE Adjust for desired acceleration
Using an area of the track that allows the rider to operate and mid throttle and
transition (accelerate, or ‘roll on’) from closed, or mostly closed throttle, to a
larger throttle opening. Observe the rich and lean symptoms listed above.
Adjust the jet needle position by moving the clip from its current position (move
the clip higher on the needle to make the bike run leaner, or move the clip lower
on the needle to make the bike run richer) to one higher or lower.
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Troubleshooting
1) Engine operates erratically
a) Carburetor top is installed backwards
b) The carburetor slide indexing pin is missing
c) A carburetor vent elbow is plugged or has fallen out
d) Faulty stator
e) An air leak
i) Base gasket
ii) Intake / reed gaskets
iii) Crank seals
iv) Crank case gasket
2) Engine is down on power
a) Jetting is incorrect
b) Silencer needs repacked
c) Exhaust pipe
i) Has excess carbon buildup
ii) Has large dent in it
d) Compression is low
i) Piston
ii) Rings
e) Reeds are damaged
f) Ignition timing is incorrect
g) Stator needs replaced
3) Engine is excessively loud
a) Silencer needs repacking
4) Engine ‘blubbers’ at high RPMs
a) Jetting too rich
b) Stator needs replaced
5) Engine won’t start
a) Fuel
i) None in tank
ii) Is sour or bad
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b) Carburetor is dirty
c) Ignition
i) Spark plug fouled
ii) Spark plug cap off
iii) Engine Shut-off ‘kill’ switch is shorted
iv) Bad electrical ground
v) Stator winding damaged
d) Exhaust is plugged with object of flooded fuel
e) Engine is flooded
f) Cracked, broken, or jammed reed pedal
g) Excessive piston or cylinder wear
h) Clutch bolt or shoe dragging on basket (drum).
6) Engine won’t idle
Idle knob needs adjusted
a)
b) Carburetor jets are dirty
c) Choke is stuck on
d) Air leak