This motorcycle is sold “as is” with all faults, obvious or not. There are no warranties
expressed or implied, including any warranty of merchantability and warranty of fitness
for any particular purpose.
“WARNING”
THE COBRA CM50 IS A COMPETITION MODEL ONLY AND IS NOT
MANUFACTURED FOR, NOR SHOULD IT BE USED ON PUBLIC STREETS, ROADS
OR HIGHWAYS.
THE USE OF THIS BIKE SHOULD BE LIMITED TO PARTICIPATION IN
SANCTIONED COMPETITION EVENTS UPON A CLOSED COURSE BY A
SUFFICIENTLY SKILLED RIDER AND SHOULD NOT BE USED FOR GENERAL
OFF-ROAD RECREATIONAL RIDING.
IMPROPER USE OF THIS MOTORCYCLE CAN CAUSE INJURY OR DEATH.
THIS BIKE IS INTENDED FOR EXPERIENCED RACERS ONLY AND NOT FOR
BEGINNERS.
IT IS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY AS THE OWNER OF THIS COBRA MOTORCYCLE
OR AS THE PARENT, OR LEGAL GUARDIAN OF THE OPER ATOR, TO KEEP THIS
COBRA MOTORCYCLE IN PROPER OPERATING CONDITION.
THIS BIKE WAS DESIGNED FOR RIDERS THAT WEIGH LESS THAN 80 LBS WITH
FULL RIDING GEAR AND SHOULD NOT BE OPER ATED BY RIDERS THAT WEIGH
MORE THAT.
BE SURE THAT THE RIDER ALWAYS WEARS ADEQUATE SAFETY GEAR
EVERYTIME HE OR SHE RIDES THEIR COBRA MOTORCYCLE .
IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTICE
Failure to follow WARNING instructions could result in severe injury or death to
the machine operator, a bystander, or a person inspecting or repairing the
machine.
CAUTION:
A CAUTION indicates special precautions that must be taken to avoid damage to
the machine.
NOTE:
A NOTE provides key information to make procedures easier or clearer.
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Table Of Contents
General Information .............................................................................................. 5
Specifications - General .................................................................................... 5
Index ................................................................................................................... 74
4
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General Information
Items
CM 50
Dimensions
Wheelbase
35.75” (908mm)
Wheel size
10” (254mm)
Seat height
23.9” (607 mm)
Engine
Type
2-stroke, single cylinder, reed valve
Cooling system
Liquid-cooled
Coolant
Liquid Performance Mini Coolant / Antifreeze
Displacement
49.8 cc
Bore and stroke
39 mm x 41.7 mm
Ignition system
Electronic, analogic advance
Spark plug
Champion 8339-1, 8332-1 hotter, 8904-1 colder
Gap
0.023” – 0.025” (0.58 – 0.64 mm)
Ignition timing
0.045” (1.14 mm) Before To Dead Center (BTDC)
Fuel type
High octane pump gasoline
Oil type
Cobra Venom2-cycle Race Oil
Fuel / oil mix ratios
Between 32:1 and 40:1 (after engine Break-In)
Carburetion
14 mm Dell’Orto
Main Jet
92
Slow (Pilot) jet
55
Float Height
16mm + 0.5mm (0.63” + 0.020”)
Transmission
Speed / Clutch
Single / Cobra 3 shoe
Final drive ratio
13/38T or 14/38 T
Chain
420
Transmission / clutch oil type
Cobra Venom 3 Shoe Clutch Milk
Quantity
235 ml (8.0oz)
Specifications - General
RACE FUELS ARE NOT RECOMMENDED
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Page 7
Chassis
Front tire
2.50 – 10
Pressure
15 psi minimum
Rear tire
2.75 – 10
Pressure
15 psi min. (20 psi for hard pack or rocky conditions)
Front fork
Marzocchi 32mm
Fork oil type
SAE 20 weight
Fork oil amount
200 ml (6.8 oz) oil change, 220 ml (7.4 oz) rebuild
Collapsed fork oil height
70 mm (2.75”) spring in, no spacer
Torque Value
Size &
ft-lb
in-lb
Nm
Cylinder head nuts
M6 X 1.0
Crankcase bolts
M6 x 1.0
Spark plug
(SP)
(SP)
(SP)
M14 x 1.25
Stator bolts
2.1
25
2.8
M5 X 0.8
Stator cover bolts
1.7
20
2.3
M4 X 0.75
Clutch cover bolts
5.8
70
7.9
M6 X 1.0
Clutch nut
40
480
54
10 x 1.25*
Clutch bolts
14
170
19
M6 x 1.0
Engine mount bolts
22
265
30
M8 X 1.25
Swingarm Pivot
21
250
28
M14 X 2.0
Intake manifold bolts
4.6
55
6.2
M6 X 1.0
Ignition rotor nut
40
480
54
M10 x 1.25*
Rear Sprocket Bolts
18
216
24
M7 X 1.0
Rear shock mounts
40
480
54
M10 x 1.5
Axle nuts
25
300
34
M12 X 1.25
Specifications - Torque Values
Fastener
8.8 105 12
8.8 105 12
* Apply high strength thread locking agent when installing
(SP) To apply the proper torque to the spark plug when inserting, one must first
screw the spark plug in until the metal gasket ring causes resistance and then
turn another 1/8 to ¼ turn.
Remarks
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Page 8
Optional Components
Weight of Rider (lb)
Fork Spring
Shock Spring
Less than 38 (light)
KCMZ0012A
SCMUOH04
38 – 45 (std)
KCMZ0012
SCMUOH05
46 to 55 (stiff)
KCMZ0012B
SCMU0H06
Damping Rate
Fork Valving
(right)
Fork Valving
(left)
Shock Valving
Soft (fast)
KCMZ0033A
KCMZ0032A
SCMUOH07
Standard
KCMZ0033
KCMZ0032
SCMUOH08
Hard (slow)
KCMZ0033B
KCMZ0032B
SCMUOH09
Call your dealer, or the factory, for details
• Carburetor jets
• Pre-filter for the airbox
• Sprockets
o Front
o Rear
• Suspension Springs
• Suspension valving
Compression
• Tires
• Tubes or ‘Tire Balls’
(12 lb/in, 2.10 N/mm))
(14 lb/in, 2.45 N/mm))
(16 lb/in, 2.80 N/mm)
Rebound
(275 lb/in) red
(285 lb/in) yellow
(295 lb/in) white
(kit)
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Break-In Procedure
Your Cobra CM50 is a close-tolerance high performance machine an d break-in
time is very important for maximum life and performance. The CM50 can be
ridden hard after the first ½ hour break-in time but it is recommended that no
adjustments are made to the carburetion or suspension until th e full 8 hours of
bike break-in has elapsed. Also, after the engine, transmission, and drive train
have been broken-in for the full 8 hours, the bike will be faster!
Use a fuel / oil mixture of 32:1 for the full 8 hour break-in period. Be sur e to use
high octane pump gas with Cobra’s specially formulated Cobra Venom2-cycle Race Oil. (Part # MCMUOL02)
CAUTION:
Failure to use proper fuel, oil, or fuel/oil mixture may result in premature engine
wear or damage to the machine.
Adhering to the following break-in schedule will result in long lasting high
performance machine.
• Start bike on stand
• First 5 minute period, operate the bike on the stand with a combination of idle
and high RPM operation. (avoid prolonged high RPM but spin the rear
wheel good at least once or twice per minute)
• Allow bike to cool
• Ride for 15 minutes maximum (avoid prolonged high RPM operation and
avoid abusing the clutch with throttle blipping.
• Cool and inspect bike for loose fasteners.
• Next ½ hour of operation, avoid prolonged operation at Wide Open Throttle.
• After 1 hour of operation
oCheck for loose bolts and nuts on the bike and retighten as
necessary (proper toque values are listed under Specifications).
o Clean the carburetor bowl.
o Change the transmission / clutch lubricant.
• After 8 hours of operation
o Change the fork oil.
o Have a Certified Cobra Mechanic change the shock oil.
• Your bike is now ready for the highest level of competition!
NOTE:
During break-in the bike will likely lose some engine c oolant through the radiator
overflow hose. Losing up to 4 oz (120 ml, ½ cup) is normal. Proper coolant level
will cover the top of the radiator cores. Removing the radiator cap and looking
inside is the only way to check the coolant level.
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Never open the radiator cap of a machine that has a hot or warm engine or one
that has recently been ridden. Burning and scalding could occur.
CAUTION:
It is important that the radiator cap is installed correctly and completely otherwis e
engine damage could occur.
Starting Procedure
Before starting the machine inspect the following:
•Make sure vehicle is properly maintained (see Schedule & Tips in the
Maintenance section)
• Check the throttle for smooth operation and sound closing.
• Insure that the fuel tank contains an adequate volume of fuel / oil mixture to
complete the distance required. (High octane pump gas with Cobra’s
specially formulated Cobra Venom2-cycle Race Oil)
•Turn the fuel on by rotating the fuel petcock knob to the vertically downward
position (reserve position is horizontally forward)
CAUTION:
For best results from your Cobra Motorcycle use only the recommended fuels.
Testing has shown that most ‘race’ fuels actually degrade performance.
When your pre-ride inspection is complete the bike may be started. For a cold
engine follow this procedure.
1. Place the motorcycle on a stand of sufficient strength that positions the
motorcycle in a level upright position with the rear wheel off the ground.
2. Pull up the choke knob and turn it to lock it.
3. Kick start the engine.
4. Rev the engine in short spurts, turning the throttle no more than 1/4 open
until the engine will run without the choke.
5. Verify a functional engine shut-off switch by shutting off the engine.
6. Restart the engine and proceed with riding when the engine is sufficiently
warm (i.e. the side of the cylinder is warm to touch).
CAUTION:
Never rev an engine full throttle when it's cold or slightly warmed up. Cobra
recommends that you tell your child to take it easy the first couple of minutes in
practice until the engine comes up to full operating temperature. Make sure your
engine is properly warmed up before racing.
This is a high performance race motorcycle. Too much application of throttle will
likely land your little racer on his or her arse. Fenders can be replaced but
bruised egos and other body parts take longer.
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General Tips
1. Always wear a helmet and other protective riding gear.
2. Cobra recommends that you tell your child to take it easy the first couple of
minutes in practice until the engine comes up to full operating temperature.
3. Make sure your riders’ foot is not resting on the foot brake while they are
riding.
4. Evaluate the bikes jetting only after it has been warmed up to race
temperatures.
5. A properly maintained machine is safer, faster, and more fun to ride.
6. Cobra offers a carburetor inlet cover RCMU0109 to keep water and dirt
from getting into the carburetor when the bike is being washed.
7. New chains will stretch on first use. Never install a new chain prior to a
race. Always ‘break’ them in during practice.
8. Your Cobra Motorcycle has a 10 digit VIN (Vehicle Identification Number).
The first two digits indicate the model and the seventh indicates the model
year (MY).
a. Example, CMxxxx5xxx is a 2005 Model Year CM50.
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Maintenance
Schedule & Tips
It is important that you adhere to this maintenance schedule so as to promote the
longevity of your Cobra Motorcycle.
•Between each ride
o Check the air filter ( clean and re-oil as necessary).
o Insure the smooth operation of the throttle cable (throttle soundly
‘clacks’ shut).
oCheck for frayed str ands of t he throttle cable inside the throttle housing
and replace if necessary.
o Check for adequate tire pressures and adjust if necessary.
o Check all nuts and bolts for proper torque and re-torque if necessary.
o Spray all moving parts with WD40 or ot her light oil.
o Check drive chain for
Proper tension and adjust if necessary.
Adequate lubrication and lubricate if necessary.
o Insure that the ignition s tator and rotor are clean and dry.
o Check the frame for cracks in the metal or cracks in the paint that
might indicate that the metal has been stressed beyond it’s safe limits.
Replace or get properly rewelded as necessary.
oInspect the rear spr ocket dam per plate for bending or warping.
Straighten or replace if more than 1/16” (1.6 mm) from flat.
•Every 2 hours of operation o Replace the transmission oil.
•Every 10 hours of operation
o Replace the fork oil.
o Have the shock oil replaced by a Certified Cobra Mechanic.
CAUTION:
1. Because of the amount of heat generated by the clutch and engine during
extended periods of riding, it is advisable to remove the ignition cover
afterward to allow the ignition to cool off. The heat transfers through the
cases and can damage the stator as it cools off because of lack of airflow
around the stator.
2. If you ever need to weld anything on the bike, disconnect the spark plug
cap, unplug the ignition, disconnect the kill switch, scrape the paint bare
near the area to be welded and put the ground clamp as close to the area
to be welded as possible.
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Page 13
Be sure the fuel tank and carburetor have been removed and safely located
away from the welding process.
3. The frame is 4130 Chrome Moly and it is important to weld it with the proper
rod and heat settings set as light as possible. Cobra recommends replacing
the frame with a new one if the old one becomes damaged.
4. If your kick-starter lever does not return to the rubber bumper, use WD-40
or light penetrating oil under the plastic cover behind the spring on the
shaft. The shaft is a very close fit to the case and also has an O-ring in it
and is difficult to get lubrication to which may cause binding. If it does not
loosen up, remove the kick-starter cover and kicking assembly. Grease the
shaft.
1. Begin this procedure with a bike that has been ridden more than 5 minutes
but less than 10 minutes. It is desired to have the engine warm enough so
that the oil is ‘runny’ but not so hot that there is risk of being burned by the
engine or the oil.
Hot oil and hot components on the
motorcycle may cause burns.
2. Lean bike against something or
set on stand with oil drain hole.
3. Using a 13 mm wrench, remove
the oil drain bolt located on the
right side of the engine, on the
clutch cover, near the brake lever
(Item 2, figure 1).
NOTE: You may need to adjust the brake pedal (up or down) to gain access to
the drain bolt.
4. After it has drained, reinstall the bolt being sure that the copper gasket is in
place. Torque to 15 Nm (11 ft-lb).
12
Figure 1
Page 14
5. Reapply oil from oil fill plug 235 cc Cobra Venom 3 Shoe Clutch Milk thru the
fill plug.
NOTE:
Lean bike over onto it’s left hand side so that the clutch cover is up unless you
have a squeeze bottle.
6. Reapply the oil fill bolt, hand tight, being sure the fiber gasket is in place.
CAUTION:
Cobra has spent considerable time and money developing the proper lubr ication
to handle the harsh environment of the automatic clutch and transmission of this
motorcycle. Cobra’s specially developed Cobra Venom 3 Shoe Clutch Milk(Part
# MCMUGF01) was formulated to provide superior lubrication and cooling
capability over extended periods of time and is the recommended lubricant for
your Cobra motorcycle.
Chain adjustment
Tools required for chain adjustment
• 19 mm wrench or socket
• 13 mm wrench or socket
1. Make sure that the rear wheel is
aligned properly.
2. For proper adjust ment, the chain
should have 35 mm (1 3/8”) free
movement just behind the chain
block with no load on the bike
(figure 2)
Figure 2
CAUTION:
Sit on the bike and verify that the chain has a minimum of 12mm (1/2”) free
movement when the chain is at it’s tightest point.
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Page 15
Figure 3, from the brake lever
Figure 4, from the brake hub
3. If the chain requires adjusting, loosen the
axle with a 19 mm wrench and tighten the
chain by rotating the adjustor bolts
clockwise (CW) or loosen the chain by
rotating the adjustor bolts (CCW).
4. Retighten the axel bolt to 25 ft-lb (34 Nm).
5. Retighten the adjustor bolt
Figure 3
CAUTION:
Always check rear brake adjustment and free-play after adjusting the chain.
Front brake adjustment
Tools recommended for front brake maintenance:
• 10mm open end wrench
From the brake lever:
1. Slide the cover out of the way
2. Loosen the locking nut on the brake lever.
3. Adjust the bolt to desirable position.
4. Tighten the locking nut.
5. Slide the protective cover back over the lever pivot and adjustor
From the brake hub:
1. Loosen the 10mm nut on the hub.
2. Adjust the brake cable to desirable position
3. Tighten the 10mm nut.
CAUTION:
If you tighten the front brake up too much, the brakes may hang up causing the
brake pads to wear incorrectly and prematurely.
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Page 16
Rear brake adjustment
Figure 5, adjust brake lever free hei ght
Figure 6, adjust brake lever ‘free pl ay’
Tools recommended for rear brake maintenance:
• 10mm open end wrench
There are 2 adjustments on the brake.
From the brake lever:
6. Loosen the 10mm nut on the back of the brake pedal.
7. Adjust the bolt to desirable position
8. Tighten the 10mm nut.
From the brake hub:
1. Adjust the wing nut to the desirable position.
CAUTION:
If you tighten the wing nut too much, the brakes may hang up. If so, the brake
pads will burn up, and need to be replaced.
Air Filter Cleaning
Tools recommended for air filter maintenance:
• #2 Phillips head screwdriver
• 4 mm hex key (Allen)
• Foam filter oil
Procedure
1. Removed the seat with the 4 mm hex key
2. Remove the filter/air inlet boot from the back of the carburetor with a flat
screwdriver
3. Pull the filter / boot assembly back, up, and out the top of the airbox.
4. Clean the filter in a nonflammable solvent to remove the filter oil.
Do not clean the air filter with gasoline or other highly volatile petr oleum product.
15
Page 17
Diesel fuel or kerosene would be preferred but caution should still be taken. Ho t
soapy water works well.
5. Clean the filter in hot soapy water to remove all dirt particles.
6. Allow it to dry thoroughly.
7. Saturate with filter oil and remove excess.
NOTE:
The Cobra is equipped with a special designed Air box. It is very important to
keep the air filter clean and properly oiled with high quality water-resist ant foam
filter oil. It’s very important to oil your filter consistently each time because varied
amounts of oil will change your carburetor jetting.
8. Reinstall the filter / boot assembly by pushing it down and forward into the
airbox making sure the letters “CM” are visible between the carburetor and
airbox (figure 8).
Figure 8
NOTE:
Make sure you change or clean your filter after each moto. We recommend
carrying multiple filters in your toolbox, one for each practice session and moto.
Fork Oil Replacement
Tools required
• 5 & 6 mm Allen wrench
• 19 mm wrench or socket (two required)
• Spring clip remover
Disassembly 16
Page 18
1. Remove the front wheel.
2. Remove the fork legs from the triple clamps.
3. Perform the following on one leg at a time.
4. Using your hands, remove the black rubber plug from the top of the fork leg
exposing the white plastic cap.
5. Secure the fork leg assembly in a vice by gripping the leg across the flats
through which the axle bolt goes through.
6. Depress the white plastic cap inwards (down) and remove the wire spring clip
from its groove.
7. Remove the white cap, the fork spring preload sleeve, and the fork spring.
NOTE: Depressing the fork leg will facilitate removing the white cap.
8. The fork can now be turned upside down and drained.
Assembly
1. Fill the leg with 200 cc (6.8 oz) 20 wt fork oil.
2. Standard fork oil level is 70 mm (2.75”) from the top edge with the fork
collapsed.
NOTE: Remove the preload sleeve but leave the spring in for the measurement.
3. Install the preload sleeve.
4. Install and depress the white cap while installing the spring clip.
SPRINGS, WASHER, & BOLT (COMPLETE SET FOR 3 SHOES)
20
HCBS5603
BOLT, CLUTCH CENTER (SINGLE PIECE)
21
ECMU0018
NUT, CLUTCH SPECIAL
22
ECMU0133
CLUTCH BASKET WELDED WITH BUSHING
23
ECMU0003
BUSHING, CLUTCH BASKET
24
ECMU0040
SPACER, CLUTCH BASKET (1 - 3 REQ’D)
25
ECMU0132
COOLANT FITTING
26
ECMU0108
GEAR, PRIMARY TRANSMISSION
27
HCNS1202
NUT, 1/2-20 LEFT HAND THREAD
28
ECMU0503
FITTING, CASE VENT
NOT SHOWN
ECMU0504
HOSE – CRANKCASE VENT
29
ECMUSP01
KICK START DOG SPRING (PAPER CLIP)
31
HCWB0042
SPRING WASHER
Engine –
Clutch
and Kick
Starter
Figure 13
24
Page 26
Parts –
Engine – Ignition and Water Pump
REF #
PART #
DESCRIPTION
1
ECKG0001
IGNITION COVER
2
ZCKG0101
IGNITION COVER GASKET
3
HCBC0445
M4 x 45 SOCKET HEAD (4 REQ’D)
4
ECKG0170
WATER PUMP BELT
5
ECKG0175
WATER PUMP PULLEY, FAN TYPE - DRIVEN
6
ECMU0180
BELT RETAINER
7
HCBS0003
SHOULDER BOLT 6MM
8
HCWF0501
FLAT WASHER
9
ECKG0072
BEARING, WATER PUMP
10
ECKG0142
SHAFT, WATER PUMP
11
ECKG0074
SEAL, WATER PUMP SHAFT
12
ECKG0073
IMPELLER, WATER PUMP
13
HCBB0001
IMPELLER SCREW, SHCS 10-32X1/2
14
HCBC0408
M4mm x 8 SOCKET HEAD black oxide
15
CASE SCREW, SHCS M6X55 (1 REQ’D)
16
CASE SCREW, SHCS M6X45 (2 REQ’D)
17
CASE SCREW, SHCS M6X40 (6 REQ’D)
18
HCWF0504
WASHER FOR STATOR (3 PER)
19
ICMU0007
STATOR
20
HCBC0535
5mm x 35 SOCKET HEAD CAP SCREW (2 req’d)
21
HCBC0525
5mm x 25 SOCKET HEAD CAP SCREW
22
ICMU0006
ROTOR
23
ECKG0042
WATER PUMP PULLEY, CRANK
24
HCNS1001
NUT 10MM
25
MCKGGR00
GROMMET
26
PCKG0014
SPROCKET, 14T COUNTERSHAFT
27
ECKGSR03
SNAP RING, COUNTERSHAFT SPROCKET
28
ECMU0073
SPACER, SPROCKET
29
ECMU0072
SEAL, COUNTERSHAFT
30
ZCDCOR01
O-RING, COUNTERSHAFT SPACER
31
ECKG0004
RETAINER, WATER PUMP ASSEMBLY
32
ICMU0012
WOODRUFF KEY – FLYWHEEL / CRANKSHAFT
4mm washer
Holder – vent hose
Engine –
Ignition
and
Water
Pump
Figure 7C
25
Page 27
Parts –
Engine – Top End
REF #
PART #
DESCRIPTION
1
ECKG0041
CYLINDER
2
ZCKG0501
BASE GASKET
3
ECMU0043
PISTON KIT
5
ECMU0055
PISTON RINGS (2 PER SET)
6
ECMUSR00
SNAP RING FOR PISTON (2 REQ'D)
7
ECKG0012
WRIST PIN
8
ECMU0077
BEARING, WRIST PIN
9
ZCMUOR07
O-RING, EXHAUST FLANGE
10
ECMU0086
EXHAUST FLANGE
NOT
SHOWN
ZCMOTE11
O-RINGS – PIPE TO FLANGE (2 REQ’D)
11
HCBC0602
M6X20, EXHAUST FLANGE SCREW (2 REQ'D)
12
HCNS1401
NUT, CYLINDER HEAD 1/4-20 (4 REQ'D)
13
HCWF1401
FLAT WASHER, 1/4" (4 REQ'D)
14
ECKG0026
CYLINDER HEAD OUTER
15
ZCMUOR02
O-RING, CYLINDER HEAD LARGE
16
ZCMUOR08
O-RING CYLINDER HEAD SMALL
17
ZCMUOR03
O-RING CYLINDER STUD (8 REQ'D)
18
ECKG1121
CYLINDER HEAD, INSERT
19
ZCMUOR05
O-RING CYLINDER HEAD MEDIUM
20
ECMU0075
STUD, CYLINDER 6MM
Engine –
Top End
Figure 15
26
Page 28
Parts – Exhaust System
Exhaust System
REF #
PART #
DESCRIPTION
1
XCCM2004
2004 CM EXHAUST PIPE
2
ZCMUOR30
HEADER PIPE O-RINGS (2 REQ’D)
3
XCMU0005
EXHAUST SPRING - SHORT
4
MCMUGR06
PIPE GROMMET MALE
5
MCMUGR07
PIPE GROMMET FEMALE
6
MCMUSP02
PIPE GROMMET SPACER
7
HCWF1478
PIPE GROMMET WASHER
8
HCBF0635
M6X35 FLANGE HEAD BOLT
10
XCKG0009
PIPE / SILENCER SEAL
11
XCKG0003
SILENCER
NOT SHOWN
XCMU0018
SILENCER PACKING
12
HCBF0630
M6X30 FLANGE HEAD BOLT
13
MCMUGR04
GROMMET – SILENCER MOUNTING (2 REQ’D)
Figure 16
27
Page 29
Parts – Forks & Triple Clamps
Front Forks and Triple Clamp
REF #
PART #
DESCRIPTION
1
KCMZ0029
OUTER FORK LEG – RIGHT (NON BRAKE) SIDE
NOT SHOWN
KCMZ0131
OUTER FORK LEG ASSY – RIGHT WITH SEAL & SWIPER
2
KCMZ0020
OUTER FORK LEG – LEFT (BRAKE) SIDE
NOT SHOWN
KCMZ0121
OUTER FORK LEG ASSY – LEFT WITH SEAL & SWIPER
3
KCMZ0026
INNER FORK LEG – RIGHT (COMPRESSION) SIDE
4
KCMZ0027
INNER FORK LEG – LEFT (REBOUND) SIDE
5
HCCC0001
CLAMP – BRAKE CABLE
6
HCBC0502
M5X20 SOCKET HEAD CAP SCREW
7
HCNL0501
5MM LOCK NUT
8
HCBF0616
FENDER BOLT, M6X16 FLANGE HEAD (4 REQ’D)
9
KCMZ0025
TRIPLE CLAMP – LOWER WITH STEM
10
HCBC0625
M6X25 SOCKET HEAD CAP SCREW (4 REQ’D)
11
KCMZ0005
TRIPLE CLAMP – UPPER (NO BAR MOUNTS)
12
HCBC0806
M8X30 SOCKET HEAD CAP SCREW (2 REQ’D)
13
KCMZ0003
BAR MOUNT – LOWER (2 REQ’D)
14
KCMZ0002
BAR MOUNT – UPPER (2 REQ’D)
15
KCMZ0001
M8X50 SOCKET HEAD CAP SCREW
16
HCNJ0101
STEERING HEAD NUT 1X14
17
FCMU0004
STEERING HEAD BEARING (2 REQ’D)
18
FCMU0103
DUST COVER (2 REQ’D)
19
BCMU0007
BRAKE STOP
20
HCBH0808
M8X30 BUTTON HEAD SCREW
Figure 17
28
Page 30
Parts –
REF #
PART #
DESCRIPTION
4
KCMZ0004
FORK PLUG – BLACK
7
KCMZ0007
SNAP RING FOR FORK CAP
8
KCMZ0008
INNER FORK CAP - WHITE
9
KCMZ0009
O-RING UNDER FORK CAP
11
KCMZ0111
PRELOAD SLEEVE
12
KCMZ0012
FORK SPRING
13
KCMZ0013
SWIPER
14
KCMZ0014
SNAP RING
15
KCMZ0015
FORK SEAL
16
KCMZ0016
WASHER
17
KCMZ0017
SEALING RING FOR REBOUND PISTON
18
KCMZ0118
PISTON ROD - REBOUND
18A
KCMZ0118A
PISTON ROD - COMPRESSION
19
KCMZ0019
REBOUND SPRING
20
KCMZ0020
FORK LEG OUTER LEFT
21
KCMZ0021
FORK LEG – 5 PIECE UNIT – LEFT
22
HCWC0000
WASHER
23
HCBC0806
8 X 30 CS
26
KCMZ0026
FORK TUBE – INNER RIGHT
27
KCMZ0027
FORK TUBE – INNER LEFT
28
KCMZ0028
TOP OUT BUMPER
29
KCMZ0029
FORK LEG – OUTER RIGHT
31
KCMZ0031
FORK LEG – 5 PIECE UNIT – RIGHT
32
HCBC0609
6 X 20 CS
Forks –
Leg
Assembly
Figure 18
29
Page 31
Parts – Frame – Mounting Hardwar e I
Frame – Engine, Tank, and Pipe Mounts, Brake Snake
REF #
PART #
DESCRIPTION
FAMU0004
FRAME 2004 CM50
1
HCBH1403
SWINGARM BOLT
2
HCNL1402
SWINGARM LOCK NUT (M14X1)
3
HCBH0880
M8X80 SOCKET HEAD CAP SCREW
4
HCNL0801
8MM LOCKNUT
5
MCMUGR06
PIPE GROMMET MALE
6
MCMUGR07
PIPE GROMMET FEMALE
7
MCMUSP02
PIPE GROMMET SPACER
8
HCWF1478
PIPE GROMMET WASHER
9
HCHA0003
6MM CLIPNUT
10
BCMU0008
CABLE – BRAKE SNAKE
11
BCMU0009
CRIMP – BRAKE SNAKE
12
HCBF0635
M6X35 FLANGE HEAD BOLT
13
TCHA0004
BUSHING – REAR TANK MOUNTING
15
HCNL0601
6MM LOCKNUT
16
TCHA0006
BUSHING – FRONT TANK MOUNT (2 REQ’D)
17
HCBF0685
M6X85 SHCS
Figure 19
30
Page 32
Parts – Frame – Mounting Hardware II
Frame – Seat, Fender, Right Side Panel, Brake Pedal, Silencer & Shock Mounts
REF #
PART #
DESCRIPTION
FAMU0004
FRAME 2004 CM50
1
HCBB0635
M6X35 BUTTON HEAD CAP SCREW
2
HCHA0003
6MM CLIPNUT
3
HCBF0620
M6X20 FLANGE HEAD BOLT
4
HCNF0602
6MM NYLOC FLANGE NUT
5
HCBF0630
M6X30 FLANGE HEAD BOLT
6
MCMUGR04
GROMMET – SILENCER (2 REQ’D)
7
HCBF0616
M6X16 FLANGE HEAD BOLT
8
HCBB0803
M8X40 BUTTON HEAD SCREW
9
HCNL0801
8MM LOCK NUT
10
HCBC1001
M10X45 SOCKET HEAD CAP SCREW
Figure 20
31
Page 33
Parts - Frame – Mounting Hardware III
Frame – Radiator, Footpeg, Chain Roller, and Airbox Mounts
REF #
PART #
DESCRIPTION
FAMU0004
FRAME 2004 CM50
1
ECHA0003
MOUNTING BRACKET – RADIATOR BOTTOM
2
HCBC0607
M6X50 SOCKET HEAD CAP SCREW
3
HCNL0601
6MM LOCK NUT
4
MCKGGR00
GROMMET – RADIATOR MOUNT (2 REQ’D ON BOTTOM, 1 ON TOP BRACKET)
5
ECHA0109
MOUNTING BRACKET – RADIATOR TOP
6
HCBC0660
M6X60 SOCKET HEAD CAP SCREW
7
FCMU0057
CHAIN ROLLER
8
HCWF1201
WASHER FLAT, CHAIN ROLLER (2 REQ’D)
9
HCCP0002
COTTERPIN 3/32 X 1 (2 REQ’D)
10
TCMU0014
FOOTPEGS (SET OF 2)
11
TCMU0102
SPRINGS – FOOTPEG (SET OF 2)
12
HCBF0850
M8X50 FLANGE HEAD BOLT
13
HCWF5601
FLAT WASHER
14
HCNL0801
8MM LOCK NUT
15
HCBF0616
M6X16 FLANGE HEAD BOLT
Figure 21
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Page 34
Parts – Front Brakes
Front Brakes
REF #
PART #
DESCRIPTION
1
BCMU0300
BRAKE HUB – FRONT
2
BCMU0113
BRAKE ARM – FRONT
3
BCMU0005
CABLE CLAMP, WASHER & NUT
4
BCMU0006
CABLE ADJUSTOR
5
BCMU0110
BRAKE SHOE (PAIR)
6
BCMU0010
SPRING – BRAKE RETURN
7
BCMU0011
PUSH NUT – BRAKE SPRING (2 REQ’D)
8
BCMU0007
BRAKE STOP
9
HCBH0808
M8X30 BUTTON HEAD SCREW
10
BCMU0100
BRAKE LEVER / PERCH ASSEMBLY WITH ADJUSTOR
11
BCMU0108
BRAKE CABLE
Figure 22
33
Page 35
Parts – Front Wheel
Front Wheel
REF #
PART #
DESCRIPTION
1
WAMU0300
FRONT WHEEL COMPLETE
2
WCMU0250
FRONT TIRE 10X2.50”
3
WCMUTU10
TUBE 10”
4
WCMU0014
FRONT AXLE
5
HCWF1202
WASHER – AXLE
6
WCMU0023
FRONT WHEEL SPACER
7
WCMU0020
BEARING – WHEEL (2 REQ’D)
8
WCMU0004
SPACER – WHEEL FRONT
9
BCMU0300
BRAKE HUB – FRONT
10
HCNS1201
NUT - AXLE
Figure 23
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Page 36
Parts – Plastic Bodywork & Seat
Plastic and Seat
REF #
PART #
DESCRIPTION
NOT SHOWN
TCMU0020
GRAPHIC KIT
1
TCHA0107
FRONT FENDER
NOT SHOWN
HCBF0616
FENDER BOLT, M6X16 FLANGE HEAD (4 REQ’D)
2
TCMU0005
NUMBER PLATE - FRONT
NOT SHOWN
HCBF0625
M6X25 FLANGE HEAD BOLT – FRONT NUMBER PLATE MOUNT
3
TCHA0008
RADIATOR SHROUD - RIGHT
4
TCHA0009
RADIATOR SHROUD - LEFT
5
MCMUBC01
BUNGEE CORD – SHROUD HOLDING
6
TCHA0001
FUEL TANK – NOT COMPLETE
NOT SHOWN
TCHA0002
CAP – FUEL TANK
NOT SHOWN
TCHA0003
HOSE – FUEL CAP
NOT SHOWN
HCSF0620
M6X20 PHILIPS HEAD SCREW – SEAT & SHROUD HOLD
NOT SHOWN
TCHA0005
SPACER – SEAT & SHROUD HOLD
NOT SHOWN
TCHA0006
SPACER – FRONT TANK MOUNT (2 REQ’D)
NOT SHOWN
HCBC0685
M6X85 SHCS – FRONT TANK MOUNT
NOT SHOWN
HCNL0601
6MM LOCK NUT – FRONT TANK MOUNT BOLT
NOT SHOWN
HCBC0645
M6X45 SOCKET HEAD CAP SCREW
NOT SHOWN
TCHA0004
BUSHING – REAR TANK MOUNTING
7
TCMU0038
FUEL PETCOCK
Not Shown
FCMU0026
FUELLINE
Not Shown
MCMUCL04
HOSECLAMPS–FUELLINE
8
TCHO0001
SEAT
NOT SHOWN
HCBB0635
M6X35 BUTTON HEAD CAP SCREW – SEAT HOLDING
9
TCHA0011
NUMBER PLATE – LEFT REAR
NOT SHOWN
HCBF0616
M6X16 FLANGE HEAD BOLT – FRONT SECURE
NOT SHOWN
HCBF0620
M6X20 FLANGE HEAD BOLT – FENDER & REAR SECURE
NOT SHOWN
HCNF0602
6MM NYLOC FLANGE NUT
10
TCHA0010
NUMBER PLATE – RIGHT REAR
NOT SHOWN
HCBF0616
M6X16 FLANGE HEAD BOLT – FRONT SECURE
NOT SHOWN
HCBF0620
M6X20 FLANGE HEAD BOLT – FENDER & REAR SECURE
NOT SHOWN
HCNF0602
6MM NYLOC FLANGE NUT
11
TCHA0012
FENDER – REAR
NOT SHOWN
HCBF0616
M6X16 FLANGE HEAD BOLT – FENDER & AIRBOX SECURE
Figure 24
35
Page 37
Parts – Rear Brake
Rear Brake System
REF #
PART #
DESCRIPTION
1
BAMU0301
BRAKE PEDAL
2
BCMU0008
CABLE – BRAKE SNAKE
3
BCMU0009
CRIMP – BRAKE SNAKE
4
HCBB0803
M8X40 BUTTON HEAD SCREW
5
HCNL0801
8MM LOCK NUT
6
HCBH0602
M6X25 HEX HEAD BOLT (BRAKE STOP ADJUST)
7
HCNS0601
6MM NUT
8
BCCM0105
BRAKE ROD
9
BCMU0111
BRAKE ROD BARREL
10
HCNW0001
BRAKEROD WINGNUT
11
BCMU0109
BRAKE HUB - REAR
12
BCMU0112
BRAKE ARM – REAR
13
BCMU0010
SPRING – BRAKE RETURN
14
BCMU0110
BRAKE SHOE (PAIR)
15
BCMU0011
PUSH NUT – BRAKE SECURE (2 REQ’D)
16
HCCP0001
COTTER PIN - 3/32 X 1/2
17
HCWF0502
5MM FLAT WASHER
Figure 25
36
Page 38
Parts – Rear Wheel
Rear Wheel
REF #
PART #
DESCRIPTION
1
WACM0100
WHEEL COMPLETE – REAR
2
WCMU0275
TIRE – REAR 10X2.75”
3
WCMUTU10
TUBE – 10”
4
PCMU0137
SPROCKET – 37T
5
PCMU0059
RUBBER SPROCKET DAMPERS
NOT SHOWN
WCMU0006
SPACER – SPROCKET DAMPER
6
WCMU0016
REAR AXLE
7
HCPA0002
AXLE HEAD FIXING PLATE
8
WCMU0001
REAR WHEEL SPACER (SPROCKET SIDE)
9
WCMU0020
WHEEL BEARING (2 REQ’D)
10
WCMU0003
WHEEL BEARING SPACER - REAR
11
BCMU0109
BRAKE HUB - REAR
12
WCMU0009
REAR WHEEL SPACER (BRAKE SIDE)
13
HCWF1202
WASHER – AXLE
14
HCNS1201
NUT – AXLE
15
WCMU0008
WHEEL DAMPER PLATE
16
HCBH0701
M7X35 HEX HEAD BOLT
17
PCCM0001
420
18
PCMU0001
MASTER LINK – 420 CHAIN
Figure 26
37
Page 39
Parts – Shock
REAR SHOCK
REF#
PART #
DESCRIPTION
1
SACM2004
SHOCK ABSORBER
2
SCMUOH05
SPRING – STANDARD (285 lb/in)
SCMUOH04
SPRING – LIGHT (275 lb/in)
SCMUOH06
SPRING – HEAVY (295 lb/in)
3
HCBC1001
M10X45 SHCS
Figure 27
38
Page 40
Parts – Swingarm Assembly
Swingarm
REF #
PART #
DESCRIPTION
GACM2004
SWINGARM ASSEMBLY (CONTAINS ITEMS 1 - 13)
1
GAMU0004
SWINGARM
2
GCMU0001
SWINGARM BUSHING (SINGLE PIECE)
3
GCMU0009
SPACER - PIVOT TUBE
4
GCMU0017
CHAIN GUARD
5
HCFH0516
M5X16 FLAT HEAD SCREW
6
HCWF0501
5MM FLAT WASHER
7
HCNL0501
5MM LOCK NUT
8
HCBF0620
M6X20 FLANGE HEAD BOLT (2 REQ’D)
9
PAKG0001
CHAIN GUIDE – ASSEMBLY COMPLETE
11
PCKG0004
CHAIN GUIDE - BOTTOM SLIDER
12
HCBFT640
M6 X 40 FLAT HEAD BOLT
13
HCNL0601
6MM LOCKNUT
14
FAMU0005
WHEEL PULL ASSEMBLY
15
FCMU0203
WHEEL PULL
16
FCMU0202
WHEEL PULL ENDCAP
17
HCWF5601
5/16” FLAT WASHER
18
HCBH0810
M8X65 HEX HEAD BOLT (FULL THREAD)
19
HCBH1403
SWINGARM PIVOT BOLT
20
HCNL1402
14MM LOCK NUT
21
HCBC1001
M10X45 SOCKET HEAD CAP SCREW
22
WCMU0016
AXLE BOLT
23
HCPA0002
AXLE HEAD FIXING PLATE
24
HCNS1201
12MM LOCKNUT
Figure 34
39
Page 41
Service
Trained technicians with precision gauging and proper assembly fixtures carefully
assemble all Cobra engines to specific clearances. If you feel you have the skills,
and the appropriate tools, to perform the following service tasks please f ollow the
instructions closely. The part numbers are listed throughout to help you when
ordering parts from your local Cobra dealer.
If you don’t feel comfortable with the service work, simply take your engine out of
the frame and sent it to:
Cobra Precision Engines
11511 Springfield Road
North Lima, Ohio 44452
Cobra has specialized mechanics that will go through the entire engine, r epla cin g
gaskets, bolts, any old part that is worn. The engine will be rebuilt using the
same precision gauging and assembly fixtures as when it was assembled new.
Before leaving, the engines performance will be measured on a dynamometer to
ensure that your engine is operating at its highest potential. All this for one low
nominal fee. Call (330) 549-9603 for details.
Engine Service
One method for determining whether the top end of your engine needs re built is
to perform a WOT (Wide Open Throttle) kicking compression test. Before
performing the procedure please read the caution notes below.
CAUTION:
• There appears to be a wide range of variability in reading compression
gauges across the country.
• The head volume of this Cobra Motorcycle is very small and so req uir es many
kicks ~20 before you establish the most accurate reading possible.
• Because of the geometry of the spark plug used in this Cobra M otorcycle, the
adapter used with your compression tester must have a similar volume
protruding into the combustion chamber to establish an accurate value.
• Length of hose on the compression tester will affect the reading. The short er
the hose length the more accurate your reading will be.
Because of these difficulties in measuring an absolute compression value, a
useful relative value can be achieved by testing your bike’s compression with
your own particular gauge after a new top end or when the bike is new so t hat
you know what your particular gauge reads on a ‘fresh’ engine. When it has
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dropped to 90% of its original value the engine will be down on power and would
Engine is Fresh
Measured Value
Engine Down on Power
Measured Value * 0.9
Engine NEEDS Rebuilt
Measured Value * 0.8
Example
110 psi
110 psi * 0.9 = 99 psi
110 psi * 0.8 = 88 psi
Your Values
benefit from a rebuild. When it’s dropped to 80% it really needs rebuilt! Using the
table below will help you determine monitor the condition of your top end.
Procedure for Compression Testing
1. Shut off the fuel petcock.
2. Install the compression gauge into the spark plug hole.
3. Hold the throttle to wide open, and kick repeatedly (approximately 20
times) or until the gauge reading does not increase in value with each
kick.
Engine Removal
To service the bottom end and transmission, the engine must be removed from
the frame.
Tools required
• 10, 11, 13, 22 mm wrench
• 10, 14, 17 & 19 mm sockets
• 3,4 & 5 mm hex key (Allen wrench)
• 7 mm nut driver, flat or Phillip, screwdriver for hose clamps
• Clutch nut removal tool (Call local dealer for details).
Procedure
1. Remove the seat (4mm hex key).
2. Turn of the fuel at the petcock and disconnect the fuel line.
3. Remove the tank (5 mm hex key & 10 mm socket).
4. Remove the carburetor from the inlet (flat head or Phillips head
screwdriver, 7 mm nut driver).
5. Remove the silencer & pipe (spring remover, 8 mm socket).
6. Disconnect the ground wire from the cylinder head (11 mm wrench).
7. Leaving the coolant lines connected to the engine, remove the radiator
from the frame (5mm hex with 10 mm wrench).
8. Remove the master link from the chain.
9. Remove front engine mount bolt (13 mm socket, 6 mm hex key).
10. Remove the swingarm bolt (22mm s ock et ).
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NOTE: Only drive the swingarm bolt far enough to clear the engine, leave it
holding the one side of the swingarm to the frame
11. Remove the engine from the right side of the fr ame.
12. Locate a suitable container for t he engine coolant and remove radiator
hoses from engine (coolant will drain).
NOTE:
If the coolant looks to be free of contaminates it may be reused.
NOTE:
If you are merely performing a top end service skip ahead to Top End
Disassembly Procedure.
Complete Engine Disassembly Procedure
1. Remove the magneto cover (3mm hex key)
2. Remove the bolt from the water pump shaft (3&4mm hex key) and slide off
the belt cover and the water pump belt
3. Using a flywheel holding tool and 14 mm socket remove the nut that
secures the flywheel.
4. Using the Cobra flywheel / clutch puller (#MCMUTL68), remove the
flywheel from the crankshaft.
5. Remove the stator (4mm hex key).
6. Remove the clutch nut / starter gear that holds on the clutch (special tool
available, contact your local dealer).
7. With the Cobra flywheel / clutch puller (#MCMUTL68), remove the clutch
from the crankshaft (details in Clutch Service portion of this manual).
Top End Disassembly Procedure
1. Remove the cylinder head nuts (11mm).
2. Remove the outer cylinder head.
3. Remove the cylinder head insert.
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INSPECTION NOTE:
INSPECTION NOTE:
Inspect the cylinder head for deposits and abrasions.
1. If there are deposits they should be removed
a. Black oily deposits (indicating a rich mixture or improper oil
type/quantity) can be removed with solvent
b. Crusty deposits (indicating dirt ingestion) can be removed with
solvent and may require some scraping.
2. Abrasions
a. Pitting or erosion indicates detonation and may require cylinder
head replacement, also
i. Retard the ignition timing
ii. Use a higher octane fuel
b. Missing chunks or indentations indicate broken hardware or
ingested items - replace the cylinder head.
4. Remove the cylinder.
Inspect the cylinder bore for abrasions, deposits, and missing coating.
1. If abrasions: scrapes, scratches, pitting, etc… are found, replace the
cylinder.
2. If deposits are all are found
a. Clean with muratic acid.
b. Once the deposits are removed, inspect for abrasions and missing
surface coating.
i. If there are abrasions or m issing coating, replace.
ii. If all looks well, the cylinder may be saved.
Muratic acid can be dangerous. Follow the manufacturers instructions closely.
5. Remove the piston clip with a scribe.
6. Remove the piston pin with a piston pin remover.
INSPECTION NOTE:
Inspect the piston for abrasions and deposits on the top and sides and clean or
replace as necessary.
Splitting the Cases
1. Remove the fasteners holding the two halves of the crankcase together.
2. Separate the cases with a proper case splitting tool.
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CAUTION:
Take caution when handling the crankshaft. It is the main po wer transfer to the
rest of the engine. If it is out of alignment, it will cause premature failure of your
bearings which can lead to serious damage to the cylinder and the rest of the
engine. Do not try to true the crank yourself. Truing the crank should be done
professionally.
CAUTION:
• If you split the cases, check the gear tooth faces for chipping & signs of
fatigue.
• Check the small needle bearings for fatigue. If the bearings are damaged,
the engine cases should be checked to make sure the needle-bea ring casing
didn’t oblong the bearing hole in the case.
• Needle bearings should be replaced every racing season.
Engine assembly
CAUTION:
For any seals that are to be installed, apply a light amount of grease to the seals’
ID, assembly lube on all bearings and a small amount of Loctite to the OD.
1. Press the three bearings into the respective holes in each case half.
2. Press in the crank seals such that the concave side faces the crank weights.
3. Press in the counter shaft seal (concave side faces inside of transmission)
4. Install the water pump assembly wire ring retainer
5. Press in the water pump assembly
6. Tap both ways axially then verify easy rotation.
7. Inspect the crankshaft for proper true geometry (no more than 0.002 “,
0.05mm, measured at bearing journal area while supported from the ends).
8. Press crank into right case half
CAUTION:
Insert a 7.05mm (0.278”) shim between the crank throws before pressing on the
crank.
9. Insert the transmission input shaft and install large drive gear as shown in
figures 25 & 26.
NOTE:
If the nut was removed from the input shaft, it will be easier to install and tighten
later.
44
Page 46
Figure 25
45
Figure 26
Page 47
10. Insert dowel pins in the left side cas e as s hown in figur e 27.
Figure 8
11. Clean the gasket mating sur f ac es with acetone
12. Apply gasket sealer (ThreeBond 1104 gasket material or equivalent) to the
mating surfaces of both crankcase halves).
NOTE: Gasket material is only required around the crankcase, and not the
transmission.
13. Apply the crankcase gasket to the left crank case half being sure to install the
gasket behind the connecting rod.
14. Assemble the two case halves together with the shim installed between the
crank throws. Be sure to remove the shim after assembly.
15. Insert the screws with the proper lengt hs at locations shown.
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Page 48
Figure 28
16. Torque to 12 Nm (105 in-lb) in the pattern shown in figure 28.
17. Trim away any excess gasket material.
NOTE: Check engine mount holes for excess material that may cause problems
in engine installation.
18. Install the piston with new wrist pin bearing and, pin and clips.
CAUTION:
Be sure to align the piston such that the arrow on the top piston surface points to
the exhaust (front of bike/engine) and put assembly lube on the connecting rod
bearing.
19. Install the piston rings.
CAUTION:
Ring end gap should be no less than 0.25 mm (0.010”) and no more than
0.64mm (0.025”)
20. Install the base gasket.
21. Apply gasket sealer to the top surface of the gasket in the same locations
indicated in figure 29.
22. Install the cylinder bein g sure that the piston rings are properly aligned with
the indexing pins.
CAUTION:
Never force the cylinder. If resistance is felt, determine the problem and solve it.
Once installed slightly rotate the cylinder back and forth insuring that the rings
are properly seated.
23. Install the cylinder st uds and o-rings as shown in figure 30.
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Figure 30
24. Install cylinder head inser t.
NOTE: A light application of silicone grease can help hold the o-rings into
position during assembly.
25. Pressure test the engine insuring an acceptable leak down rate.
26. Install O-rings as shown in figure 31.
Figure 31
27. Install the cylinder head.
28. Install the washers (with flat s ide down) and nuts. Torque to 105 in-lb (12 Nm)
29. Secure the ground strap to the back left cylinder stud with an additional nut.
30. Install reed and inlet manifold with new gask et s ( 105 in-lb, 12 Nm) applying
1104 gasket sealer to both sides of all gaskets.
31. Leak check the engine to 20 ps i to ensure proper seal.
32. Install stator reinst allin g the grommet and wires (snug the bolts).
33. Install the rotor per Rotor Installation section, under the S3: Ignition portion of
this manual.
34. Install the water pump outlet pipe ( apply Ult r a black Hi-Tem p RTV silic on
gasket maker to the threads before assembly) before installing the clutch and
rotate to a vertical position with the engine resting on a bench
35. Install the clutch per Clutch I nstallation section in this manual.
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36. Install the coolant drain plug with copper washer (11 ft-lb, 15 Nm).
37. Make sure that the exhaust spacer is on t he cylinder (53 in-lb, 6 Nm).
38. Install the spark plug with a f resh gasket (to apply the proper torque to the
spark plug when inserting, one must first screw the spark plug in until the
metal gasket ring causes resistance and then turn another 1/8 to ¼ turn).
Clutch
Cobra clutch puller assembly:
Clutch puller diagram
Figure 36
Tools recommended for clutch service:
• Universal clutch puller- a universal puller that pulls the clutch, main drive gear
and rotor. (Part # MCMUTL70).
• 5mm T-handle
• Clutch nut removal tool (Call local dealer for details)
• Cobra 3 Shoe Clutch Milk (Part # MCMUGF01)
CLUTCH REMOVAL:
1. Drain the engine transmission oil.
2. Remove the pipe and remove the 6 bolts that hold the kick-starter cover on.
3. Remove the clutch nut (not left hand thread) on the end of the crankshaft with
the clutch nut removal tool.
4. Attach the COBRA CLUTCH PULLER. There are three 6mm clutch puller
holes located on the ends of the center hub. (figures 32 & 33) You mus t use a
draw type puller to remove the clutch.
CAUTION:
Figure 37
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Page 51
Do notuse a j aw type puller or use the 6mm tapped h oles as jackscrews or you
CLUTCH ASSEMBLY REFERENCE DRAWING
REF #
PART #
DESCRIPTION
1
CAKG0004
Set of three shoes, springs, bolts, flat washers & nuts
2
CAMU0008
Set Of three springs, washers, bolts & nuts
3
CAKG0005
Set of three shoes
4
HCBS5603
Single center shoulder bolt
are likely damage the clutch or drum.
5. If necessary apply heat to the center clutch hub.
CAUTION:
Do not heat the crankshaft threads or the aluminum shoes.
6. Keep tension on the puller as you are heating it.
The clutch will often pop off under tension from the puller and it will be very hot.
CLUTCH WASHER STACKUPS:
Once the clutch is removed, and cool to touch, carefully put it into a vice and
remove the center shoulder bolt out of each clutch shoe. You wil l probably have
to heat the center hub again to remove the bolts. Once you get a bolt loosened,
carefully remove it with the shoe and observe the way the spring washers are
stacked.
CAUTION:
It is very important that the clutch stack be reassembled as it was disassembled
unless new shoes are being installed then it is important to reinstall per figure 34.
Figure 34 A possible configuration of clutch spring stack. Each ‘spring’ stack contains nine
springs (Belleville washers) - six arranged into four ‘fly i ng saucers’, and one turned away against
the flat washer(s). Another configuration the ‘three stack’ is als o li kely. For details see Figure 34b.
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Figure 34b
Part #
Thickness mm (inch)
HCWS0801
1.4 (0.056)
HCWS0802
1.2 (0.047)
HCWS0803
0.79 (0.031)
HCWS0804
0.64 (0.025)
HCWS0805
0.51 (0.020)
HCWS0806
0.38 (0.015)
Hit
Thickness (mm)
Thickness (inch)
Softer
1.17 (0.79 + 0.38)
0.046 (0.031 + 0.015)
1.30 (0.79 + 0.51)
0.051 (0.031 + 0.020)
Stock
1.4
0.056
1.58 (1.2 + 0.38)
0.062 (0.047 + 0.015)
Harder
1.71 (1.2 + 0.51)
0.067 (0.047 + 0.020)
Clutch adjustment washers
Your Cobra comes stock with a single flat washer at the bottom of the spring
washer stack. The thickness of that flat washer is 0.056” (1.4mm). Cobra offers
several thicknesses of thin adjustment washers that allow clutch engagement
tuning. Increasing the flat washer(s) thickness increases the engine speed for
clutch engagement thus increasing the abruptness of clutch engagement (harder
hit). Conversely, decreasing the flat washer(s) thickness decreases the engine
speed for clutch engagement thus decreasing the abruptness of clutch
engagement (softer hit).
Use the table above to order adjustment washers. Replace the stock washer with
the proper combination of adjustment washers that delivers the desired clutch hit.
CAUTION:
It is easy to prematurely damage the clutch and other engine components with
improper clutch adjustment. If you are unsure of how to adjust the clutch, by even
the slightest, contact the Cobra Technical Support Group before making
adjustments.
Clutch shoe wear:
• If the clutch has been slipping and shows signs of glazing, it is b est to replace
the shoes. We have found that once the shoes are glazed, even if deglazed
with emery paper or a file, the performance is reduced.
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• The best way to prevent glazing is by not gearing too high, changing the oil as
REF #
PART NO.
DESCRIPTION
1
ECMU0017
Crank seal
2
ECMU0040
Clutch to hub spacer
3
ECMU0003
Brass bushing
4
ECMU0033
Clutch Hub w/ brass bushing
5
CAKG0002
Clutch Complete w/ Arbor
6
ECMU0018
Clutch nut
specified and by not blipping the throttle. Every time you blip the throttle, you
are working your clutch springs.
CAUTION:
The clutch produces a tremendous amount of heat and when a rider is blipping
the throttle. This makes the clutch and clutch springs wear out quicker. This also
makes your engine tend to run hotter which decreases engine power and
degrades ignition stator efficiency. It is important t o train your rider NOT to be a
throttle 'blipper'.
CAUTION:
Sludge build-up between the spring washers also keeps the clutch shoe from
engaging fully and this will cause the clutch to start t o slip. So you will need to
clean the sludge out or just replace the spring washers and bolts with new ones.
How quickly this sludge builds up depends on how often you change your oil
and whether your rider is a throttle ‘blipper’.
Figure 39,
Clutch Assembly Drawing
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CLUTCH ASSEMBLY:
1. After cleaning or replacing the spring washers, reassemble the stack up of
washers.
CAUTION:
It is important to reassemble the washer stack to that which is recommended or
to your own specialized stack.
CAUTION:
It is also important that all three shoes are stacked the same. (See figure 34)
2. Clean the threads of the stack bolt and the clutch with contact cleaner
removing all old thread locking material.
3. Apply high strength (red) thread lock material to the stack bolt and tighten as
tight as possible without stripping the Allen head.
CAUTION:
Avoid allowing excess thread lock material to contact the spring washers and the
clutch or the clutch is likely to malfunction.
4. Use fine emery paper on the center hole of the clutch and on the tapered
section of the crankshaft.
5. Apply a small amount of wicking / bearing retainer (green) thread lock agent
to the center tapered section of the crankshaft and taper of clutch arbor.
CAUTION:
Lean the bike / engine such that any excess thread lock agent goes away from
the bushing in the clutch drum.
6. Put the clutch back in.
7. Apply high strength (red) thread locking agent to the threads and install the
nut and torque to 40 ft-lb (54Nm) with the special socket (see figure 35).
CAUTION:
Use high strength (red) thread locker on the threads of the clutch nut. If you are
using an impact socket, just zap it lightly with an air wrench to tighten it because
there are only about 4 threads inside the nut and they can be easily stripped. If
you are tightening it by hand, you can very carefully use a 3/4" piece of wooden
dowel rod inside the exhaust port to block the piston so you can tighten the nut.
Do not use something harder than your aluminum piston and do not crush the top
of the piston into the ring.
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INSPECTION NOTE:
• There must be in / out play in installed clutch, 1.0 mm (0.04”)
• Should be no looseness in clutch shoes.
maximum.
• Excess in/out will cause early crank seal failure.
• A blue clutch drum is worn out from excessive slippage or improper
lubrication.
8. Install the clutch cover taking care to put the two longer bolts in their proper
locations and tightening in the order specified in figure 36. (5mm hex key, 5.8
ft-lb, 7.8 Nm).
CAUTION:
Prior to tightening the six clutch cover bolts, press the kick lever down to ensure
proper kick gear alignment.
9. Put pipe back on and add oil (235 ml (8.0 oz) Cobra 3 Shoe Clutch Milk (Part
# MCMUGF01).
Ignition
Stator care
Stator failure will result from running the bike hot. Following is a list of things that
will make your engine run hot.
1. The timing should not exceed the maximum specifications listed.
2. Improper carburetor jetting.
54
Figure 40
Page 56
3. Improper spark plug heat range. Never run a hotter plug than the specified
spark plug.
4. Clutch slippage. See “CLUTCH” section for causes of slippage.
CAUTION:
• Because of the amount of heat generated by the clutch and engine during
extended periods of riding, it is advisable to remove the ignition cover
afterward to allow the ignition to cool off. The heat transfers thr ough the cases
and can damage the stator as it cools off because of lack of airflow around
the stator. Spray the stator and rotor with CRC 3-36 or WD-40 and let it drip
dry or blow it off a little with an air nozzle.
• Ignition will overheat if the gap between the rotor and stator is not large
enough. There should be even clearance as the rotor rot ates relative to the
stator.
• Non-resistor spark plug caps should be used. Resistor caps wi ll result in a
weaker spark that will reduce performance.
• Make sure ground wires are secure.
• Make sure connections are free of dirt.
CAUTION:
If the engine is hot, it is EXTREMLY important to take the ignition cover off, put a
fan on it to let it cool, and spray it with CRC 3-36 or WD-40. Proper stator care is
important for the durability of the ignition system. (Stator- Part # ICMU0007)
The proper ignition timing for this model of is at 0.045” before Top Dead Center
(that means 0.045” before the piston reaches the highest point of it’s travel in the
cylinder).
CAUTION:
Advancing the ignition timing will cause the engine to run hotter, in-turn c ausing
power loss, shortened clutch life, and possibly lead to premature stator failure,
and can also cause detonation which can lead to premature piston and ring
failure.
Tools recommended for timing service:
• Compact motorcycle dial indicator
• Universal clutch puller- a universal puller that pulls the clutch, main drive gear
and rotor. (Part # MCMUTL70).
TIMING YOUR IGNITION:
1. Remove the spark plug cap, and sparkplug.
2. Insert the dial indicator into the spark plug hole.
3. Remove the four bolts from the ignition cover.
4. Remove the water pump belt from the rotor and water pump shaft.
5. Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise until it reaches top dead center.
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6. Set the dial indicator to zero
0.045”
7. Turn the crankshaft clockwise until the dial indicator reaches 0.045” (1.14mm)
from top dead center.
8. Line up the lines on the stator and the rotor (figure 37). Otherwise loosen the
three 5mm bolts to adjust the stator.
before
TDC
Figure 37, Lining up the line on the rotor
with the line on the stator.
Figure 38, Using a dial indicator to measure piston
height for setting ignition timing.
ROTOR INSTALLATION:
1. Use wicking / bearing retainer (green) thread locker on the inside of the rotor,
and on tapered part of crankshaft.
CAUTION:
It is recommended that you apply the proper thread locking primer to the
components that are to receive thread locking material per the manufacturers
instructions.
2. Eyeball the lines on the rotor and stator then press the rotor onto the
crankshaft firmly (figure 37).
3. Torque the nut on the rotor to 40 ft-lb (54 Nm) with high strength (red) thread
locking agent.
4. Recheck the timing following the procedure of timing your ignition.
5. Install the water pump belt back on.
6. Bolt the ignition cover back on.
7. Put the spark plug back in, and firmly stick the spark plug cap onto the spark
plug.
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Cooling System
Radiator fluid removal:
1. Remove the coolant drain plug (A) on the front of the engine case (figure 39).
Figure 39
To remove radiator cap:
1. Turn the cap counter clockwise to the first stop and wait there for a few seconds.
COBRA IMPELLER SERVICE INSTRUCTIONS
1. Remove exhaust pipe and gas tank (you will be using a propane torch in step 12.
2.
hex head
coolant drain plug.
A
The water pump in the engine keeps the radiator fluid in circulat ion throughout
the motor. The air stream running through the radiator cools th e radiator fluid.
Therefore dirty radiators additionally reduce the cooling effect.
Cobra has tested numerous brand name automotive and racing coolant /
antifreeze solutions and has found Liquid Performance Propylene Glycol bas ed
Mini Coolant / Antifreeze to have the greatest effect on reducing cylin der head
temperatures.
2. Push the cap down and turn it further in the same direction and remove the cap.
NOTE: Inspect the old coolant for visual evidence of corrosion and abnormal smell.
Fill the radiator up to the bottom of the radiator f iller neck with coolant. Install the cap,
turning it clockwise about ¼ turn.
Tools recommended for impeller service:
• Flat head screwdriver
• 13mm- hex wrench
• 3mm hex key
• 4mm hex key
• 5mm hex key
• Propane torch
• 3/8” diameter x 8” long steel rod
• Hammer
Remove radiator cap and drain engine coolant by removing the 13mm-
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Page 59
3. If the impeller is damaged or broken completely back flush the coolant system to
ensure no solid pieces are in the system.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8. Unscrew water elbow fitting. (Figure 40)
8. Remove ignition cover using a 4mm hex key (four places)
9.
10.
11. Remove bearing retain er s crew using a 3mm hex key. (Figure 41 – item 2)
12. Heat engine case around area of impeller lig htly with a small Burnsmatic propane
engine as shown in figure 42.
CAUTION:
Remove foot brake.
Drain engine transmission oil by removing drain screw using a 13mm- hex
wrench. (item 2 in the figure below).
Remove kick-starter cover using a 5mm hex key. (item 3 six places)
Remove clutch and basket.
Figure 40
Remove belt retainer screw using a 4mm hex key. (Figure 41 - item 1)
Remove belt retainer, water pum p belt and wat er pump fan pulley.
Figure 41
torch. Using a 3/8” diameter x 8” long steel rod, tap impeller assembly out of
Figure 42
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Too much heat can be detrimental to the engine cases.
13. The shaft assembly is serviceabl e. Use a 1/8” hex key to remove impeller
retainer screw. Remove impeller, seal and both bearings. Check shaft for wear in
the area of the seal. If there is any sign of wear (like a groove) replace the shaft.
14. Reinstall new bearings, seal ( open s ide t oward impeller) and impeller. Clean all
15.
long and tap on end of tube per figure 44.
16. Re-assemble in same order of disassembly.
CAUTION:
Clean all threads and use green (wicking / bearing retainer) t hread locker on the be lt
retainer screw.
NOTE:
Apply Ultra black Hi
the threads of the water
pump 90° elbow fitting before assembly.
NOTE:
Refill the coolant system with
Propylene Glycol based Mini
Coolant / Antifreeze.
CAUTION:
Do not mix Propylene Glycol based coolant / antifreeze solutions with Ethylene
Glycol based coolant / antifreeze solutions.
Figure 43
threads and use green (wicking / bearing retainer) thread locker.
Using a liberal amount of grease on the outside seal, bearings and inside of
case, reinstall bearing assembly by using a 0.500” ID by 1.000” OD steel tube 2”
Your Cobra is equipped with an adjustable carburetor. Some fine-tuning may be
needed according to weather condition and altitude. Proper jetting is very
important for engine performance and engine life. Serious damage to the engine
can occur if not properly adjusted.
IDLE ADJUSTMENT:
On the left side of the carburetor, there are two adjustm ent screws. The larger
screw with the knurled head is the idle adjustment sc rew. To raise the idle, turn
the screw in clockwise (in 1/4 turn increments) and rev the engine after each
adjustment. To lower the idle, turn the screw counter-clockwise.
TOP END JETTING:
Indications that the engine is running too rich (too much fuel for the air) are:
• Engine not revving out or blubbering at high RPMs.
• Engine will not ‘clean out’
• Wet or black spark plug
NOTE: Before changing jetting be sure that the air filter is properly cleaned and
has the usual amount of air filter oil. An overly dirty air filter can cause the engine
to run rich.
If the engine is running rich on the top end it should be leaned out. Lean ing it out
can be done by:
1. Changing the main jet to a smaller number.
2. Raising the needle clip (this lowers the jet needle) one notch at a time on the
slide.
Indications that the engine is running too lean are:
• Engine cutting out on top end.
• Engine overheating and ultimately seizure.
• White spark plug
CAUTION:
It is much safer to operate the engine slightly rich as opposed to slightly lean.
This is because an overly rich engine will just run poorly while an overly lean
engine will seize, potentially causing an expensive top end rebuild and a DNF.
To richen the carburetor:
1. Change the main jet one number at a time (larger).
2. Lower the needle clip (raising the jet needle) one notch at a time until the
engine starts to blubber on the top end, then move the clip back up one notc h
or until you get the blubber out.
FUEL MIXTURE SCREW
The smaller brass screw that is towards the front of the engine is a fuel mixtur e
screw. This screw will also richen and lean your engine more on the bottom and
mid-range. In warmer conditions, turn the screw in. In colder conditions, turn the
screw out. Be sure to keep the carburetor very clean and make sure you don't
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have water or dirt in the carburetor bowl. Use automotive carburetor cleaner or
WD-40 to clean the carburetor inside and out.
STOCK CARBURETOR SETTINGS
The stock carburetor settings from the factory are:
• 55 pilot jet
• 92 main jet
Cleaning the carburetor:
Clean the carburetor in a well-ventilated area, and take care that there is no
spark or flame anywhere near the working area; this includes any appliance with
a pilot light. Because of the danger of highly flammable liquids, do not use
gasoline or low flash-point solvent to clean the carburetor.
1. Make sure the fuel is shut off.
2. Remove the carburetor.
3. Drain the fuel from the carburetor.
4. Disassemble the carburetor.
5. Immerse all the metal parts in a carburetor cleaning solution.
7.6. After the parts are cleaned, dry them with compressed air.
8.7. Blow out the fuel passages with compressed air.
8. Assemble the carburetor
9. Install the carburetor onto the motorcycle.
CAUTION:
1. The motorcycle will only operate
properly if the carburetor top is
installed properly with the mounting
screws, cable and choke knob
oriented as shown in figure 46.
Figure 50 Proper carburetor top
installation and location of
rectangular slide indexing pin
and vent elbows.
Reeds:
• The reeds must lay flat on the reed cage.
• If the reed tips aren’t lying flat, replace them immediately.
• The reeds must have a tight seal on the reed cage.
• If the reed is damaged in any way, replace it. This means cracks, chips,
and ruptures. Anything abnormal, replace the reeds.
Formatted: Bullets and Numbering
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Take the reed cage out and hold it up to the light and lo ok in throu gh the cage. If
Figure 51
you see light between the reed pedals and the frame, then replace the r eeds. If
you do not see light, then the reeds should be ok. (See figure 47)
The presence of light indicates that the reeds should be replaced, or possibly turned over.
Exhaust
The pipe is a crucial element to a motorcycle. Any kinks, dents, or damage done
to the pipe will result in a major performance loss.
NOTE:
Be sure to take the pipe off, and any carbon that may be bui lt up. Carbon build
up is created from exhaust. Exhaust has oils in it, and the oils cling to t he walls
of the inside of the pipe. Over a long period of time, the diameter of t he pipe will
decrease, due to carbon build up. So it is essential to clear the residue.
CAUTION:
It is important to repack the silencer. Signs of your silencer needing to be
repacked are:
• The bike is louder than normal.
• A loss of power.
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Wheels & Tires
1. Remove the four bolts with the 11mm wrench
Pop the four rubber dampers out of
Push the rubber dampers into the
Place the sprocket (step facing
outward) with rubber dampers, onto
Insert the 11mm bolts into the holes
Rear wheel
Rear wheel dampening
Tools recommended for wheel service:
• 13mm socket
• Flathead screwdriver
• 11mm wrench or socket
• 19mm wrench
The Cobra is the only 50cc to have the rear wheel damping system. This feature
prevents engine impact shock caused by hard landings. This design allows the
cushioned sprocket to move forward and backwards separately from the wheel.
After each moto, check the 4 rubber dampers, spacers and bolts for fatigue. You
should keep extra rubber dampers in your toolbox (part # PCMU0059). Different
sized sprockets are also available.
Watch for bending and warping of the outside rear damper plate. If it is bent or
warped, the rubber dampers in the sprockets do not last as long as when us ing a
straight unit. Usually you can straighten the plate with a hammer or just flip it
over.
Changing the rubber dampers:
2. Take the backing plate off
3. Observe the four rubber dampers, and pull the sprocket upward to remove it.
Figure 52
64
1.
the sprocket.
2.
sprocket.
3.
the aluminum studs.
4. Place backing plate over the dampers
and sprocket.
5.
and tighten to 18 ft-lb (24 Nm).
Page 66
Rear wheel pullers
Figure 53
Remove axle, and
Pull the rear wheel
Disassembly:
1.
back wheel assembly.
2.
pullers out of the back
of the swing arm.
Rear wheel alignment:
Either
• Accurately measure the distance from the swingarm pivot t o the axle center
on each side or
• From the rear of the bike, sight up through both sprockets to ensure that the
chain is running in a straight line (no bend in between or jog at either
sprocket).
Suspension
Adjustment:
1. Front forks
1.1. Fork oil
1.1.1. Oil type
1.1.1.1. Heavier weight oil – more damping – slower responding
1.1.1.2. Lighter weight oil – less damping – quicker responding
1.1.2.2. Smaller quantity / lower level – less bottoming resistance,
1.2. Fork spring (optional spring)
1.2.1. Stiffer spring (higher spring rate) – stiffer throughout the travel.
1.2.2. Less stiff spring (lower spring rate) – less stiff throughout the travel.
1.3. Fork height
1.3.1. Rise in clamps for quicker turning.
65
Tuning
resistance, stiffer near the end of the travel.
less stiff near the end of the travel.
Page 67
1.3.2. Lower in clamps for improved straight line stability.
Symptom
Action
Rear end feels stiff on small bumps
Softer compression damping
Rear end ‘sways’ on straights
Harder compression damping
Bike tends to jump ‘rear end high’
Harder rebound damping
Bike tends to jump ‘rear end low’
Softer rebound damping
Frequent rear end bottoming
Harder compression damping
Bottoms after end of continuous bumps
Softer rebound damping
Rear end ‘kicks’ over square edge bumps
1) Harder rebound, 2) Softer
Compression
2. Rear shock
2.1. Shock spring (optional spring)
2.1.1. Stiffer spring – stiffer throughout the travel.
2.1.2. Less stiff spring – less stiff throughout the tr avel.
2.2. Compression damping (optional valve)
2.2.1. Harder (more damping, slower) – adds resistance t o t he
suspension motion when the suspension is compressing.
2.2.2. Softer (less damping, quicker) – reduces resi stance to the
suspension motion when the suspension is compressing.
2.3. Rebound damping (optional valve)
2.3.1. Harder (more damping, slower) – adds resistance t o t he
suspension motion when the suspension is returning to full length.
2.3.2. Softer (less damping, quicker) - reduces resistance to the
suspension motion when the suspension is returning to full length
Front Forks Bottoming Too Frequently Fork oil level
If the front forks bottom harshly more than a couple of times per lap and the fork
springs are proper for the weight of rider (as detailed above), try raising the fork
oil level in increments of 10mm. Raising the fork oil level, reduces the air volume,
and increases the stiffness of the forks late in the travel, thus adding a
progressive’ feel.
Front forks feel too stiff over small bumps. Fork oil weight
If the forks feel too stiff over small bumps try decreasing the weight (increasing
the viscosity) of the fork oil.
Rear suspension troubleshooting. Damping
Always start with standard settings and make damping changes in no more than
two click increments and only make one change at a time.
Proactive Suspension Adjustments
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Once you have the suspension adjusted for decent overall feel, you can make
Situation
Actions
Sand track
Lower the rear end (increase race sag).
Sand track
Stiffer compression and rebound damping.
Long fast track
Lower the forks in the clamps by 3 mm.
Tight slow track
Raise the forks in the clamps by 3 mm.
Mud track
Lower the bike if the rider has difficulties
touching the ground.
proactive adjustments when faced with different racing conditions.
Rear shock
The rear shock on your Cobra is adjustable to your riders weight and riding style
by changing the spring rate (stiffness) of the spring and / or by changing the
damping valves.
Due to the complexities of the shock absorber internals, Cobra recommends that
you either send the shock back to us for damping valve changes or send the
shock to a competent suspension specialist such as PR2.
Cobra offers stiffer and softer shock springs depending on the weight of your
rider. See the Parts Shock section or the Optional component section at the
beginning of the manual for these other components.
Front Forks
Cobra offers stiffer and softer fork springs depending on the weight of your rider.
See the Parts Shock section or the Optional component section at the beginning
of the manual for these other components.
The front forks are designed with the damping components in separate fork legs.
The compression damping duties are performed in the right fork leg and the
rebound damping duties are performed in the left fork leg. This allows easy
adjustment of the damping characteristics by appropriately changing the viscosity
of the fork oil in the fork leg controlling the damping characteristic that needs
changed.
Example: if stiffer compression damping is required, switch from 20 (standard)
weight fork oil to 25 or 30 weight oil in the right leg. If softer rebound damping is
desired, switch from 20 (standard) to 15 or 10 weight fork oil in the left leg.
Environmental and altitude related mixture adjustments
Condition
Mixture will be
Required adjustment
Cold air
Leaner
Richer
Warm air
Richer
Leaner
Dry air
Leaner
Richer
Very humid air
Richer
Leaner
Low altitude
Standard
None
High altitude
Richer
Leaner
Low barometric pressure
Richer
Leaner
High barometric pressure
Leaner
Richer
Although your Cobra is sent from the factory with the carburetor jetted for optimal
performance, you may find it necessary to adjustment your particular jetting due
to current weather conditions, altitude, fuel variations, and/or engine
modifications.
CAUTION:
Proper jetting is very important for engine performance and engine life.
Symptoms of improper jetting are listed below.
• Symptoms of incorrect oil or oil / fuel ratio
o Poor acceleration
o Misfire at low engine speeds
o Excessive smoke
o Spark plug fouling
o Excessive black oil dripping from exhaust system
• Symptoms of too rich a fuel mixture
o Poor acceleration
o Engine will not ‘rev’ out, blubbers on top
o Misfire at low engine speeds
o Excessive smoke
o Spark plug fouling
o Wet, black, or overly dark spark plug (when removed for inspection)
• Symptoms of too lean a fuel mixture
o Pinging or rattling
o Erratic acceleration
o Same actions as running out of fuel
o High engine temperature
o White spark plug (when removed for inspection)
NOTE:
When inspecting the spark plug to evaluate jetting, a properly jetted machine will
produce a spark plug that is dry and light tan in color.
NOTE:
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• Before making any carburetor jetting changes verify that:
o You are using the proper fuel and oil
o The fuel is fresh and uncontaminated
o The oil and fuel have been mixed in the proper ratio
o The carburetor is clean (no plugged jets)
o The air filter is properly clean and oiled
o The float height is within proper specification (proper measuring technique
is described later in this section)
NOTE:
Perform all jetting changes on a motorcycle that has been warmed up to proper
operating temperature.
The carburetor on your Cobra motorcycle is quite adjustable. Figure 59 shows
its range of adjustment and in particular what adjustable compon ent affects what
range of operation (specifically throttle position).
Figure 59
FUEL SCREW ADJUSTMENT: Adjust for maximum idle speed
The fuel adjustment screw is located on the left side of the carburetor. It is the
smaller of the two adjustment screws and requires the use of a small flat blade
screw driver for adjustment. After adjusting for maximum idle speed, use the idle
screw to adjust the desired idle speed.
NOTE:
If the fuel screw requires more than 3 turns out, replace the pilot jet for one that is
one size richer (larger number) then readjust the fuel screw.
IDLE ADJUSTMENT: Adjust for desired idle speed
The idle speed screw is located on the left side of the carburetor. It is the larger
of the two screws on the side of the carburetor and is unique with its knurled
head for easy fingertip adjustment. To raise the idle, turn the screw in, clockwise,
(in 1/4 turn increments) and rev the engine after each adjustment. To lower the
idle, turn the screw counter-clockwise.
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TOP END JETTING: Adjust for clean full throttle acceleration
Jet your top end (main jet) based on the acceleration of your Cobra M otorcycle
on the longest straight at the track. Observe any of the lean or rich symptoms
(spark plug appearance and bike performance) listed above and change your
jetting accordingly.
PART THROTTLE Adjust for desired acceleration
Using an area of the track that allows the rider to operate and mid throttle and
transition (accelerate, or ‘roll on’) from closed, or mostly closed throttle, to a
larger throttle opening. Observe the rich and lean symptoms listed above.
Adjust the jet needle position by moving the clip from its curr ent position (move
the clip higher on the needle to make the bike run leaner, or move the clip lower
on the needle to make the bike run richer) to one higher or lower.
Troubleshooting
1) Engine not behav i ng p roperly
a) Carburetor top is installed backwards (happens a lot)
b) The carburetor slide indexing pin is missing
c) Wrong spark plug installed (8339 Champion to be used on ’04 or later & no
mods)
d) Needle clip is on top of plastic not below
e) Air leak – find where with WD40 or the like
f) Ground wire or ignition leads have fault
2) Engine is down on power
a) Clutch engagement is not set properly
b) Jetting is incorrect
c) Silencer needs repacked
d)
e) Exhaust pipe
i) Has excess carbon buildup
ii) Has large dent in it
f) Compression is low
i) Piston
ii) Rings
g) Reeds are damaged
h) Ignition timing is incorrect
3) Engine is excessively loud
a) Silencer needs to be repacked
4) Engine cuts out at high RPMs
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a) Stator bad
b) Carburetor diffuser plate upside down (install like a skirt)
c) Plugged fuel petcock
d) Silencer core tube broken
5) Engine won’t start
a) Fuel
i) None in tank
ii) Is sour or bad
b) Carburetor is dirty
c) Ignition
i) Spark plug fouled
ii) Wrong spark plug installed (8339 Champion to be used on ’04 or later & no
mods)
iii) Spark plug cap off
iv) Engine Shut-off ‘kill’ switch is shorted
v) Bad electrical ground
vi) Stator winding damaged
d) Exhaust is plugged
6) Overheating
a) Bad stator
b) Water pump pulleys or belt broken
c) Water pump impeller broken or bolt out
d) Jetting too lean
e) Too much throttle blipping
f) Too high gearing
g) Kinked radiator hose
h) Rear brake dragging
i) Chain too tight
j) Air lea k
7) Engine won’t idle
a) Idle knob needs adjusted
b) Air leak
c) Carburetor jets are dirty
73
Page 75
Index
Air Filter Maintenance ................... 15
Airbox
Parts .......................................... 18