Chrysler C-67, C-68, C-70, C-69 Service Manual

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386—STEERING

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

MANUAL STEERING

DATA

MODELS

King Pin Diameter King Pin Bushings (Manual Steering) Type

Upper Lower

King Pin Bushings (Power Steering) Type

Upper Lower

Dimensions of Lower Bushings

Inside Diameter Outside Diameter Length

Ream After Installation

AND

SPECIFICATIONS

C-67, C-68, C-69, C-70

Needle Type Bearing

Floating Bushing Floating Bushing

1.195 to 1.205 in.

.7960 to .7975 in.

.7953 in.

Bushing

.787 to .789 in. .823

to .825 in.

COAXIAL POWER STEERING

MODELS

Fluid Capacity of Hydraulic System Fluid Capacity of Worm Housing Type of Fluid

Maximum Pump Pressure Maximum Fluid Flow at

Maximum Pump Rotor Clearances:

Between Rotor Lobes

Between Outer Rotor and Bushing

3,000

R.P.M

C-67, C-68, C-69, C-70

2qts.

lpt.

Automatic Transmission Fluid,

Type A

750 to 800 psi.

2 gal. (Minimum)

.008 in. .006 in.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

COAXIAL POWER STEERING (Cont'd)

End Clearance (Between Rotors and

STEERING—387

Face of Body)

Flow Control Valve Spring

Free Length Working Length

Force at Working Length

Pressure Relief Valve Spring

Free Length

Working Length

Force at Working Length,

Front End Alignment

Steering Gear Ratio Piston Rod Snap Ring Gap

(Upper and Lower) ...

.001

to .002 in.

2.13 in.

1.20 in.

14 lbs. ± lVo lbs.

1.51 in.

1.18 in.

30 to 33 lbs.

16.2:1

%4 in.

Tool Number

C-143

C-328

C-611

C-3428

C-619

C-630

SPECIAL TOOLS

MANUAL STEERING GEAR

Tool Name

Puller-—Steering Arm Bushing—King Pin Remover Bushing—Eccentric Adjusting Puller—Steering Wheel Bushing—Eccentric Adjusting Reamer—Pilot Bushing

388—STEERING

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

COAXIAL POWER STEERING GEAR

Tool Number Tool Name

C-760 Pliers—Gear Snap Ring—Straight Type C-3102 Gauge—Hydraulic Pump and Gear Checking C-3106 Pliers—Gear Snap Ring—Right Angle C-3107 Wrench—Adjustable Spanner C-3108 Studs—(Pr.) Power Cylinder C-

3109 Spacer—Aligning Unit In Chassis

C-3112 Puller—Steering Gear Tube Coupling Adapters for C-293 Puller (C-3145

Covers C-3112 Parts and C-293 Parts Required To Pull Coupling)

C-3113 Driver—Steering Gear Shaft Outer Bearing

C-3114 Driver—Steering Gear Shaft Inner Bearing

C-3116 Pilots—(Pr.)Reservoir Installing C-3117 Plug—Oil Pump Return Hole (Tapered) (Small) C-3128 Pliers—Pump Shaft Rear Bearing Ring C-3129 Driver—Pump Oil Seal and Bearing C-3130 Thimble—Protector—Pump Oil Seal C-3136 Sleeve—Shaft Oil Seal Installing

C-3137 Remover—Shaft Oil Seal

C-3141 Driver—Valve Block Adjusting Pin Roller

C-3142 Driver—Steering Gear Shaft Inner Seal

C-3143 Driver—Steering Tube Oil Seal In Valve Body Cap

C-3189 Plug—Oil Pump Return Hole (Tapered) (Large)

C-485,

C-524 or

C-612 Puller—Steering Wheel C-685 or C-3380 Wrench—Inch-Pound Torque

C-3005..

Wrench—Foot-Pound Torque

SP-2623 Puller Screw—For Use With C-143 Puller (Previously Released)

C-3185 Remover—Pump Shaft Bushings and Seal

C-3211 Hose—High Pressure P/S Test

C-3214 Puller—Main Bearing

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

STEERING—389

COAXIAL POWER STEERING GEAR (Cont'd)

Tool Number Tool Name

C-3227 Wrench—Flange Holding C-3228 Thimble—Shaft Oil Seal Protecting C-3229 Pliers C-3230 Driver—Shaft Oil Seal Installing C-3233 Driver—Shaft Bushing Installing C-3234 Adapter—For using C-3214 Puller C-3250 Pliers—Hose Clamp

C-3251 Driver—Main Bearing Installing

C-3309 Gauge—Oil Pump, pressure checking C-3317 Driver—Worm Housing Oil Seal C-3318 Hose—Low Pressure P/S Test W/adapters C-3319 Nut—Worm Shaft Holding

C-3320 Wrench—Worm Shaft Bearing Adjusting Nut C-3321 Wrench—Worm Connector Holding

C-3322 Remover and Installer Worm Housing Bearing Cups

C-3323 Fixture—Gear Assembly Holding

C-3328 Spanner—Upper Piston Rod Nut C-3329 Thimble—Valve Control Spacer Seal Installing C-3331 Driver—Housing Head and Gear Housing Seal C-3333 Driver—Remove and Install Gear Shaft Bearing C-3344—SP-2604 Installer—Piston and Ring Assembly

C-3350 Remover and Installer—Gear Shaft Oil Seal

C-3437 Protector—Lower Piston Rod Seal C-3392 Wedge—Coupling Removing—(Not Required If C-3112 Is Available) C-3398 Remover and Installer—Gear Shift Rod Bushings C-3399 Tool—Shifter Dial Bulb Removing and Installing

C-3401 Thimble—Gearshift Adjusting Screw "0" Ring Installing

C-3469 Flange—Upper Housing—Used For Pretesting for Hydraulic Leaks

390—STEERING CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

TIGHTENING REFERENCE

MANUAL STEERING

Foot-Pounds

Steering Gear to Frame Bolt 50

Steering Gear Arm (Pitman) Lock Bolt Nut. 80

Steering Knuckle Tie Rod Clamp Bolt 15

Steering Gear Mounting Bracket Bolts 50

Steering Wheel Nut 40

Steering Knuckle Tie Rod End Ball Nut 75

Intermediate Steering Arm Pin Nut 50

POWER STEERING GEAR ASSEMBLY

Foot-Pounds

Pump Body to Cover Bolts 30-35

Pump Reservoir to Pump Body Bolts 12-17

Pump Mounting Bolts 18-23

Pump Reservoir Mounting Stud 30-35

Steering Knuckle Arm Nuts (Brake Anchor Nuts) 55-75

Steering Gear Arm to Shaft Nut 100-125

Steering Arm to Transverse Link Nut 50-55

Steering Gear Assembly Mounting to Frame 65-70

Steering Wheel to Steering Shaft Nut 35-40

Jacket to Instrument Panel Screws 15-20

Tie Rod Clamp Bolts 10-15

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL-

STEERING—391

POWER STEERING GEAR ASSEMBLY (Cont'd)

Foot-Pounds Tie Rod to Steering Knuckle Arm Nuts 45-75 Pump Coupling Attaching Screw 15-20 Pump Flow Control and Relief Pump Coupling Flange Attaching Screw 10-12 Upper Piston Rod Nut 25-30 Ball Guide Clamp Screws 10-12 Worm Housing to Gear Housing Screws 25-30

Gear Shaft Adjusting Screw Lock Nut 35-40

Valve

Adapter (Retaining) 45-50

RESERVOIR

Thread Size Foot-Pounds

Reservoir Cover Bolt %6 x 24 8 Relief Valve Assembly Cap 1x8 8 Hose Connector Inlet % x 18 30

PUMP

Thread Size Foot-Pounds

Pump Assembly Bolt %6 x 18 20

Hose Connector Outlet % x 18 30

By-Pass Plug % x 16 50 Relief Valve Plug 1 x 14 50

Flow Divider Valve Plug 1% x 12 50

94 e Drain Tube Nut % x 24 *y2 to % Turn

or 6 to 10

* The number of turns specified is after initial finger tightening.

392—STEERING

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

WASHER

LOCKWASHER

NUT

OIL

WASHER

SEAL

GROMMET

LEVER

KNOB

JACKET

INSULATOR

GROMMET

SWITCH

BRACKET

OILSEM

BUSHINGS<^T%

CAGE

AND

TUBE

AND

CAGE

AND

OIL

SHIMS

COVER

SCREW

NUT

WORM

ROLLERS

SEAL

'^J^\\

ROLLERS

CUP

\ *

NUT

54x677

Fig.

1—Typical Steering Gear (Exploded View)

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

STEERING—393

Section

STEERING

(SEE FIG.

LINKAGE

The symmetrical idler arm type

shown

Figure 2,

used on ter link relays the motion from the Pitman arm to an idler arm at its opposite end. The idler arm is mounted

on a

bracket attached

Two equal length tie rods connect from the center relay link to the steering knuckle arms. Both tie rods

are

threaded

for

adjustment.

STEERING GEAR (THREE-TOOTH ROLLER

AND WORM) (Mechanical)

A three-tooth roller

mounted bearings on a steel cross-shaft inserted through the steering gear shaft.

all

models. A cen-

to the

proper

steering,

frame.

toe

aligning

needle roller

The worm

and

is bearings. The worm bearing pre-load is adjusted by means and housing end cover. The steering gear shaft rotates steering gear housing. on

the the steering wheel the steering gear shaft Pitman arm, which shaft and held

Backlash between the steering gear shaft roller tooth and justing screw that is threaded through the shaft and roller cover. The base end

screw

steering gear shaft. Correct backlash

integral with

supported

two bronze bushings pressed into

shaft

engaged

each

shims placed between

meshed with

turned,

splined

place with

the

worm

in a

the

steering tube

end by

tapered roller

the

The

three-tooth roller

the

worm. When

the

worm rotates

and

roller, moving

to the

a nut.

controlled

the adjusting

slot

in the end of the

housing

the

end

of the

by an ad-

can be

STEERING KNUCKLE

ARM-RIGHT

TIE

ROD

END-OUTER

TIE

ROD

ENDS-INNER

CENTER LINK

IDLER

ARM

STEERING GEAR

STEERING KNUCKLE

ARM-LEFT

STEERING GEAR

ARM

55x5

Fig.

2—Idler Arm Type Steering Linkage

394—STEERING

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

obtained by turning the adjusting screw in or

out, as required.

The steering wheel and Pitman arm are

splined to the steering tube and steering gear

shaft, respectively. Both the steering wheel and

the Pitman arm have master serrations to in-

sure correct installation.

The high point is the point of least clearance between the worm and roller and is at the midpoint of the worm and roller travel.

An oil seal is installed in the bore of the steering gear housing at the outer end of the shaft to prevent oil leakage and to keep foreign

material from entering the steering unit.

REMOVAL OF STEERING WHEEL

ASSEMBLY

Disconnect battery and center the steering wheel in the straight-ahead position. Press down on the horn blowing ring ornament and turn counter-clockwise. Lift out ornament retaining spring and pad. Disconnect horn wire from terminal on travel plate and insulator assembly. Remove bushing, travel plate, horn blowing contact ring spring, and triangular ground plate. Curl and push horn wire into the steering gear tube to make room for steering wheel puller pilot. Remove the steering wheel nut. Attach puller and remove steering wheel.

Drain lubricant from the steering gear housing. Mount the gear assembly in a suitable bench vise,

holding the assembly by the housing to chassis mounting flange, with the steering column in the horizontal position. Remove the shaft cover attaching cap screws, cover, gasket and steering gear shaft, and roller tooth assembly.

Loosen the column jacket clamp bolt, pry open clamp and remove column jacket from steering housing. Remove steering worm, lower oil seal housing cover bolts, cover and shims. Pull steering tube and worm assembly bearing cups and bearing cages out of the lower end of steering housing.

Clean the steering gear housing shaft, bearings and other parts thoroughly with a suitable cleaning solvent. Inspect roller tooth shaft, shaft serrations, bearings, bearing cups, oil seals, worm and tube for wear, nicks and flat spots. Replace with new parts as necessary.

Remove roller tooth assembly shaft cover adjusting screw nut and locking plate. Check adjusting screw threads in cover and on the adjusting screw. Replace if necessary.

6. ASSEMBLY OF STEERING GEAR

(Unit Removed From Car)

REMOVAL OF STEERING GEAR

ASSEMBLY

It is not necessary to remove the complete steering column and mast assembly from the car for servicing the gear chuck and worm shaft. To remove the gear chuck and worm shaft assembly proceed as follows. Disconnect the battery, press down on the horn ring ornament while rotating it, and remove ornament. Remove steering column worm shaft nut. Pull steering wheel with puller. Loosen jacket bracket bolts at instrument panel. Remove dust pad retaining screws. Raise front of car and remove steering gear (Pitman) arm from gear shaft. Loosen jacket to gear chuck clamp bolt. Remove gear

chuck to frame attaching bolts and work gear chuck and shaft assembly out of jacket. Remove assembly from lower side of car.

DISASSEMBLY OF STEERING GEAR

(Unit Removed From Car)

To disassemble the Manual Steering Gear As-

sembly, proceed as follows:

NOTE

When the steering gear assembly is disassembled,

it is always advisable to install new seals

and gaskets to insure against oil leaks.

If either of the worm thrust tapered roller bearings have become damaged, it is advisable to replace both bearings. After thoroughly cleaning all parts, assemble the parts without any lubrication. Lubrication should be done after the adjustments have been completed. If bushings or needle bearings have been removed, press new bushings or needle bearings into place. Use new oil seals.

Insert the worm and tube into the housing with bearings and cups in the proper order, as shown in Figure 2. Install the shims and lower housing cover, making sure that bearings are seated in cups before tightening the cover screws evenly, turning the worm tube at intervale to be sure no bind occurs. Final

screws.

Tighten

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

STEERING—395

tightening of the screws should cause the end

play to just disappear with the torque required to rotate the wheel from % to % of a pound, when measured with the pull applied at rim of wheel. If a bind in the rotation of the tube occurs when the cover screws are fully tightened, it will be necessary to add shim thickness until bind just disappears. If end play is present after final tightening, less shim thickness is required. Shims are available in .003, .006, .011 and .025 inch. By using a micrometer to measure shims, # the proper combination can be chosen.

Refer to Figure 2 and 3. Install the roller shaft bearing in the housing. Before installing the cover, turn.the adjusting screw all the way out (counter-clockwise). When the roller shaft assembly is completely installed, with the exception of the Pitman arm, adjust as follows:

Place the steering wheel on the tube and rotate the wheel in either direction to the end of

its travel. Then, rotate in the opposite direction

to the end of travel while counting the turns.

Rotate the wheel back 1/2 the full number of turns.

This is the center of travel (mid-travel or high point). Turn the adjusting screw in (clockwise) until all end play in the roller shaft disappears. Roll the wheel back and forth several times.

There should be no bind. Rotate the wheel to one of the ends of travel and apply a spring scale or torque wrench. With the pull applied at the rim of the wheel, the tension should measure from 1 to 2 pounds. Rotate the wheel back to the center and on past the center position. The greatest tension should be felt as the wheel is rotated through the center position. Adjust the bearing load by turning adjusting screw in or out of the cover, as required. Install lock plate, nut, and Pitman arm. Fill the gear housing with SAE 90 Fluid Gear Lubricant. Rotate the wheel back and forth through its full travel

several times to be sure all parts are fully lu-

bricated and check for leaks.

ADJUSTING WORM BEARINGS (In Car)

Rotate steering wheel to extreme right or left and turn back % turn. Press a finger at joint between bottom of steering wheel hub and shell. Have another mechanic shake the front wheels hard sideways, but not enough to turn steering wheel. Any end play in worm bearings can be felt at steering wheel hub. There should be no

end play at the fused with clearance between the roller and worm. If any excessive end play exists, remove the steering gear arm, drain the housing, and

disconnect the horn wire at connector between steering gear and horn.

Remove cap cover at bottom of steering gear housing. Remove shims of sufficient thickness between this cover and housing to eliminate the end play in worm, but not enough to cause binding when cover is bolted tightly in place. Turn steering wheel from extreme right to left. If any ness exists, too many shims have been removed, or the steering gear assembly is misaligned on car.

8. INSTALLATION AND ALIGNMENT OF

STEERING GEAR ASSEMBLY a. Installation Where gear chuck and worm shaft assembly has

been removed for service, install as follows. Raise front of car, insert worm shaft into jacket and move gear chuck assembly up into position.

It may be necessary for an assistant to guide the top of the worm shaft through the upper jacket alignment bearing. Install gear chuck to bracket attaching bolts and tighten forward bolt to a snug fit. Lower car to floor. Center the jacket in the instrument panel and tighten bracket bolts. Install and tighten dust pad retaining screws. Install steering wheel horn ring and ornament. Raise front of car. Tighten attaching bolts. Install steering (Pitman) arm and tighten nut.

Alignment (All Models)

A slight bind of the steering gear is sometimes

caused by shifting of body due to loosened bolts.

If this condition occurs, body bolts should first

be tightened. Then, the steering gear should be

loosened at frame, frame bracket and dash

bracket, and allowed to seek its natural position.

Position the center of steering column in cen-

ter of instrument cluster. If this cannot be ac-

complished by the shifting of the frame bracket, as provided for by the oversize and elongated mounting screw holes, it will be necessary to add metal washer shims between the frame and frame bracket. Tighten dash bracket and tighten steering gear to frame.

hub.

End play should not be con-

screws which hold grease retainer

stiff-

396—STEERING

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

NOTE

Be sure the body to frame bolts are tight and

the spacers are in place. With the body bolts tight, loosen the gear housing mounting bolts to allow the steering gear to move in relation to the frame. Tighten the mounting bolts to 50 foot-pounds torque. Loosen the steering col-

umn bolts that hold column to instrument panel

to determine if the column shifts its position in relation to the support.

9. ADJUSTMENT OF ROLLER TOOTH AND WORM (In Car)

End play of steering arm shaft and mesh of roller tooth with steering worm may be adjusted as follows:

Remove steering gear (Pitman) arm from shaft and install another arm for making adjustments. Turn steering wheel to mid-position. This is obtained by turning wheel to extreme right or left, and then turning it to opposite extreme, counting number of turns required. Turn steering wheel back 1/2 the number of turns required for turning it from one extreme to the other. With steering wheel in mid-position, attempt to move steering gear arm back and forth to determine whether or not there is any backlash. There should be no backlash. But if backlash exists, the roller tooth and worm should be adjusted.

Remove roller tooth shaft adjustment screw lock nut. Slide off lock plate far enough to clear lock boss on roller tooth shaft cover. Tighten roller tooth shaft adjusting screw (Fig. 3) enough to eliminate free play between roller tooth shaft and worm; but, it must not bind.

Slide lock plate in position against roller tooth shaft cover and lock it. Install and tighten

roller tooth shaft adjustment screw lock nut.

Check steering gear operation again for binding and backlash. Correct any inaccuracies in adjustments. Install steering gear arm with tie rods.

WORM BEARING ADJUSTING SHIMS

ADJUSTING SCREW

ADJUSTING SCREW LOCK PLATE

-LOCK PLATE

Fig.

3—Steering Gear Adjustments

NUT

54x46

the idler assembly. Screw the new idler arm into the bracket until the shoulder on the arm contacts the face of the bracket. Turn arm out of bracket one complete turn. It may be necessary to rotate the arm slightly to line up the bracket for installing attaching bolts.

11.

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF

STEERING KNUCKLE TIE RODS

Remove cotter pin and loosen nut on upper end

of the rod ball. With Tool C-3394, remove tie rod from steering arm (Fig. 4). Tie rod balls

are not removable from tie rod ends. If replace-

ment of either is necessary, the complete tie rod end and ball assembly should be replaced. Loosen clamping bolt nut on the tie rod end. Unscrew tie rod end assembly from tie rod.

When assembling tie rod ends to tube body, be sure to thread the ends evenly on tube body to the nominal length listed in Data and Specifications. This is necessary to obtain proper positioning of the steering wheel with respect to the

straight-ahead position of the front wheels. Care must be taken to make certain the clamping bolts are beneath the tie rods to prevent interference on turns.

10.

SERVICING IDLER ARM

Service of the idler arm is restricted to replacement and adjustment. When replacing the idler

arm, disconnect the relay rod (center link) from

the idler arm. Remove the bracket attaching

screws from the bracket and frame and remove

12.

ADJUSTMENT OF FRONT WHEEL

BEARINGS

After removing the hub cap and the grease cap, remove the cotter pin in the bearing adjusting nut at the outer end of the steering knuckle

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

STEERING—397

STEERING KNUCKLE

Fig.

4—Removing Tie Rod From Steering Knuckle Arm

(Tool C-3394)

(wheel spindle). Turn bearing adjusting (Fig.

hand tight. Turn adjusting one slot. Turn cotter

pin new cotter pin. be

good condition and the cotter pin properly

the nut

hole centers over hole

The

bearing

ARM

nut

back

back until slot nearest

and

nut

threads must

install

installed and spread. Always use new cotter pins.

13.

RECONDITIONING FRONT WHEEL HUB

AND DRUM ASSEMBLY

Raise front

end of car

until wheel

is off

floor.

Remove hub cap. Remove wheel hub bolts. Bolts

on left wheels have left-hand threads and those on right wheels have right-hand threads. move wheel special Tool C-438, driver move threaded type hub.

Remove cotter wheel bearing adjusting bearing and pull hub not necessary is

be removed from steering knuckle spindle.

Wheel and hub may

unit. Inspect

Before installing front wheel

hub

grease

and

tapping with a light hammer.

cup

or by

unscrewing

(snap type) with

prying with a screw

pin and

nut.

off

steering knuckle.

remove wheel from hub

removed

oil

seal

and

replace

unscrew front

Remove outer

as a

necessary.

hub and

ing assembly, remove lubricant from

and bearings and make sure parts condition. Install inner so there ders.

is no

clearance between the hub shoul-

Pack bearings with Short Fiber Wheel

and

outer bearing cups

are in

Re-

cap

from

It is

hub

complete

bear-

the hub

good

Bearing Lubricant (Medium). When installing the

oil

seals, make certain that

the

seal flange

bottoms on the bearing cup.

14.

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

OF STEERING KNUCKLE KING PINS AND BUSHINGS

NOTE

Should servicing

the steering knuckle be nec-

1—Bearing 2—Bearing thrust washer 3—Outer bearing cup 4—Hub

nut

Fig.

5—Front Wheel Bearings

5—Inner bearing cone and rollers 6-Hub dust seal 7—Hub cap 8—Grease cap

°—Bearing nut cotter pin 10—Outer bearing cone and rollers 11—Steering knuckle 12—Inner bearing cup

398—STEERING CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

Fig.

6—Removing Brake Support

Fig.

7—Removing King Pin Bushing or Bearing

essary, time can

ing knuckle Remove steering knuckle and brake support

assembly.

done

support. Remove brake hose connections,

leave brake support move unit as an assembly with steering knuckle after king pin is ings,

seals,

knuckle and support assembly.

saved by removing the steer-

arm

from

the

steering knuckle.

Make necessary

this manner, eliminate removing

repairs

a bench.

but

removed.

steering knuckle.

Always use new bush-

Re-

and pins ivhen servicing the steering

1—King

pin bushing

at top and oil hole

hole

steering knuckle. Stationary type bushings (Fig. move

the

upper needle bearing. Install reamer

should

bearing 2—Tool C-328

bearing lined

line-reamed. First

with

oil

re-

pilot bushing Tool C-631 and reamer Tool C-379. When installing lower bushing (Fig.

9),

to the top. Both types

and

upper floating type

place open end

lower bushings should

of oil

groove

Remove wheel and hub assembly. Block brake

pedal

so it

cannot and bolts that fasten brake support knuckle. Remove steering knuckle steering knuckle. Remove brake hose nections and lift

depressed. Remove nuts

to arm

and

off

brake support (Fig. 6). Do

steering

from

con-

not allow brake support and shoe assembly to be

supported

flexible brake hose. Remove king

pin locking pin.

Drive a punch into upper steering knuckle welch plug and Drive king welch plug. A soft brass drift should when driving against top

steering knuckle upper needle bearing

ing

pulling

special

tool, ing knuckle lower bushing. stationary type, use special tool to remove

The upper needle bearing must

from

top of

pry it out of

downward, forcing

toward center knuckle, using

as shown in Figure

steering knuckle.

out

king pin. Remove

Remove steer-

bushing

is of

lower

used

bush-

the

it.

installed

steering knuckle, with trade mark

49x607

Fig.

8—Bearing and Stationary Type Bushing

Installed

1—Bearing identification mark 3—Lubricant holes

2—Bushing identification line

notch A—3/32 inch

B-l/16inch

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

STEERING—399

STAKE IN PLACE

AS SHOWN

STAKE SECURELY 4 PLACES AS SHOWN BOTH

ENDS

Fig.

9—Bearing and Floating Type Bushing Installed

1—Bearing identification mark

2—Lubricant holes

3—Floating type bushing

A-3/16inch

be installed with oil hole in bearing lined up with oil hole in steering knuckle. On cars equipped with Power Steering, the king pin bushings should be installed with the open end of the oil groove leading towards the "O" seal rings.

After installing the steering knuckle, make sure it is free in the support. Binding at this point may cause sensitive steering and car wander. There should be .006 to .008 inch clearance between the steering knuckle and the knuckle support. This clearance can be adjusted by the

49x701

Fig.

10—Welch Plug and King Pin Lock Pin Installed

use of shims between the steering knuckle and the thrust bearings.

When installing a welch plug, it is necessary

to stake it after it is properly in place, as shown

in Figure 10.

Before installing hub and drum assembly, perform Major Brake Adjustment, described in Section III, Brakes, as applied to cars equipped with Manual Steering. After installing hub, drum and wheel assembly, check king

pin inclination, caster, camber, and toe-in or

toe-out, as outlined in Front Wheel Alignment

in this Section. Adjust brakes.

COAXIAL POWER STEERING

15.

DESCRIPTION (Fig. 11)

The Coaxial Power Steering Unit incorporates two basic gear mechanisms, a worm and worm connector and a rack and sector gear.

The worm and worm connector act in a man-

ner similar to a bolt and nut assembly, rotation

of the worm causes linear (axial) motion of the worm connector. Fastened to the worm connector, in succession, are an upper piston rod, a piston, and a lower piston rod, all concentric to the steering column axis. (This arrangement provides a means for adding power assistance to the system.)

400—STEERING

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

STEERING—401

FLOW CONTROL VALVE (CLOSED)

PRESSURE RELIEF

VALVE

HIGH PRESSURE - LOW FLOW

FLOW CONTROL VALVE (OPEN)

PRESSURE RELIEF

VALVE (CLOSED)

A rack, machined lower piston

rod,

the lower portion

the

meshes with a sector gear. This combination produces rotation of the steering gear arm and thereby actuates the steering

linkage.

The hydraulic system of the Coaxial gear con-

sists

of a

double-acting piston, a valve (which fits inside the piston), and a hydraulic reaction chamber (which gives the road). Axial positioning high pressure oil

double-acting piston.

one side

the

driver

the

the valve directs

the other

same time, valve

"feel"

the

movement opens an oil return line which carries oil from the oil reservoir. The direction depends upon

the

low pressure side

the

direction

the

piston

oil

flow

steering wheel

(which

rotation) is such that hydraulic force is added to the driver's effort and rack and sector gear

Other components

transmitted through the

to the of

steering gear

the

hydraulic system

arm.

are, a generator-driven oil pump with pressure

relief valve

with

the oil

limits the oil

(IV2 gallons

horsepower required

and

flow control valve,

reservoir.

flow

per

The

to a

predetermined maximu^n

minute)

drive the

and a filter

flow control valve

and

thus holds

oil

pump

tHe to

minimum.

LOW PRESSURE - HIGH FLOW

•FLOW CONTROL VALVE (OPEN) PRESSURE RELIEF

VALVE (OPEN)

HIGH PRESSURE - HIGH FLOW

Fig.

12—Pump Pressure

and

Flow

53x632

a. Power Steering

Assembly

The

oil

pump

mounted

at cartridge-type filter element reservoir. Oil from flows through

body, through

the reservoir chamber. From

Oil

and

the

rear

end

the

internal passage

the

full-flow

Pump, Reservoir

and

reservoir assembly

the

generator.

located

in the

steering gear assembly

oil

the

in the

filter,

reservoir,

pump

and

into

oil enters the oil pump intake (Fig. 12). The position

the oil pump

tain level fluid

adjustable

reservoir when drive belt

help main-

adjusted.

A small diaphragm vent valve

the

reservoir cover is forced open to provide a passage to the atmosphere,

excessive pressure occurs

the reservoir.

With cold through pressure would build-up

the

oil,

filter

insufficient

the

reservoir,

oil

the

line from

would pass

and the oil

the

steering gear assembly. Therefore, a spring-

402—STEERING

OUT

(LOW

PRESSURE

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

OIL)

SPOOL VALVE

IN NEUTRAL POSITION, AND VALVE BODY OFFER LITTLE FLOW RESTRICTION PRESSURE HOLDS PISTON STATIONARY.

PISTON

Fig.

THE

OPENINGS BETWEEN

IS LOW.

13—Oil Flow—Neutral Valve Position

EQUAL PRESSURE

(LOW

THE

BOTH PISTON FACES

PRESSURE

53x859

VALVE

SO OIL

OIL)

OUT (LOW PRESSURE

SPOOL VALVE

WHEN

"A"

AND "BM. OIL LIC FORCE PRESSURE CYLINDER,

FORCED

PISTON

OIL)

THE

VALVE

PISTON.

OUT

RETURN PASSAGES.

PULLED

PRESSURE INCREASES GREATLY, CREATING A HYDRAU-

AND OIL IN THE LOW

UP, IT

PISTON MOVES,

OFFERS FLOW RESTRICTION

OIL

ENTERS

PRESSURE CYLINDER

THE

IN (HIGH PRESSURE

HIGH

OIL)

53x860

Fig.

14—Oil Flow—Right Turn—Valve Pulled

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

STEERING—403

loaded relief valve is provided at the top of the filter element. When oil pressure in the filter builds up to about 5 to 7 psi., this valve opens and permits oil to pass directly into the reservoir chamber.

The rotary oil pump is driven from the rear end of the generator armature shaft through a flexible coupling. The single rotor in the pump draws oil from the reservoir, and discharges it

through the built-in combination flow control

valve and pressure relief valve to the valve in the power unit assembly.

In the power steering pump, the flow control valve and pressure relief valve are combined in a single assembly, as shown in Figure 12. The spring-loaded pressure relief valve is concentric with and fits inside the spring-loaded flow control valve. When the pressure relief valve is closed, it seats against a snap ring in the flow control valve. An orifice in the pressure relief valve provides the oil pressure drop that controls the operation of the flow control valve. When the oil flow from the pump tends to rise above l1/^ gallons per minute, the difference in pressure across the orifice overcomes the spring load, and the flow control valve moves to uncover a passage to the intake side of the pump. By preventing excessive oil flow, the flow control valve limits the pressure drop through the hydraulic system and thus limits the horsepower required to drive the pump. Oil flow of the pump when the engine is idling is about 1% gallons per minute.

Oil pressure in the hydraulic system builds up to that required to overcome the resistance to turning of the road wheels. In other words,

straight-ahead highway steering requires a relatively low oil pressure, while a higher oil pressure is required when turning a corner. A rapid

build-up of oil pressure tends to occur when the

road wheels are turned against a curb or when the steering wheel is turned all the way in one direction so that the piston reaches the end of the stroke. To prevent excessive oil pressure, the pressure relief valve in the pump limits the oil pressure from 750 to 800 psi.

How the Coaxial Power Steering Operates

The heart of the Coaxial Power Steering Unit has two parts; the valve and the valve body

(actually a part of the hydraulic piston, as shown in Figure 13). Together, these two pieces control the operation of the entire power system.

When the driver turns the steering wheel, the valve moves with respect to the hydraulic piston, and power asistance instantly responds. The relative movement between the valve and piston is very slight (it seldom excee Is .0025 inch) and must not be confused with the gen-

eral movement of the whole step'ing system

as the front wheels turn. The driver controls the power steering unit by governing the relative movement between the valve and hydra ilic piston.

Control movements are based o. feel of the road that comes through the steering wheel from a hydraulic reaction chamber inside the power unit. Relative movement of the valve and piston affects hydraulic action as follows:

As the valve moves relative to the piston, it

regulates oil pressure and directs oil flow

through the hydraulic circuit. Consider the case

where the steering wheel is not turned and the valve is in neutral position, as shown in Figure

13.

In this position, the valve leaves openings

between it and the valve body so oil flows

through the unit quite easily with very little

flow restriction. Therefore, the oil pump has

only a slight resistance to overcome, and the oil

entering the power steering unit is under low pressure.

Inside the unit, the oil reaches the valve through holes drilled in the piston. At the valve the flow divides, and oil travels toward both ends of the valve. It flows through succeeding openings between the valve and adjacent valve

body until it reaches the main return passage

drilled through the lower piston rod. It then returns to the reservoir and filter. In the neutral position, oil pressure on both sides of the power

piston is the same. Consequently, the piston

remains stationary.

The entire hydraulic oil system for power steering has a capacity of 2 quarts of SAE 10 W engine, or type "A" oil. The worm housing capacity is one pint which is separate from the pressure system.

When the driver turns the steering wheel, the valve moves either up or down, depending on which direction he turns. Suppose that he moves

the valve up slightly, relative to the piston. By

moving the valve this small amount, the driver

404—STEERING

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

puts the power system into operation, as shown in Figure 14.

The instant the valve is moved, two important things happen: (1) the inlet oil pressure increases because of restricted openings ber tween the valve and valve body, and (2) the increased pressure is directed to one side of the power piston. The restrictions causing the pressure rise are marked "A and B" in Figure 14. These narrow spaces "dam up" the oil that is being forced through the system by the oil pump. Because the pump is a positive-displacement type, the oil must keep moving. As the oil "piles-up" behind the restrictions, its pressure increases tremendously, squeezing oil through the narrow spaces at a very fast rate. Often the restrictions may close completely, giving operating pressure at the fastest possible rate. The maximum pressure build-up is limited to

800 psi by a pressure relief valve in the pump assembly.

The high oil pressure is directed to the lower

end of the cylinder (for this case through the passages indicated in Figure 14). However, the opposite end of the cylinder is open to the

return line. Therefore, a difference in pressure exists in each end of the cylinder and the piston

moves. Oil trapped in the lower pressure cylin-

der is forced through the return passages as the piston moves up.

By careful design, all of these elements have been combined into two compact units which are connected by a pair of flexible hoses. The power unit contains the power piston, spool valve, and hydraulic reaction chamber. Tne supply unit incorporates the reservoir and the oil pump with its valves.

If the driver stops turning the steering wheel and holds it in a fixed position, the front wheels immediately stop turning. This is how it happens:

with the steering wheel held, the valve

remains in its pulled up position because the valve is mechanically connected to the steering wheel. The piston, on the other hand, is moving up under the action of the pressure in the lower

end of the cylinder, and continues to move up

for the briefest instant until the relative motion

between piston and valve has returned them to

the neutral position. In neutral position, there

very little

flow

restriction, as explained before,

UPPER PISTON ROD

VALVE

OPERATING

ROD

CONNECTOR NUT

VALVE CONTROL

SPACER SEAL

-SEAL RETAINERS

ADJUSTING DISC RETAINER

VALVE ADJUSTING DISC

ADJUSTING

TANG

WORM

CONNECTOR

PISTON ROD NUT AND LOCK CUP

53x861

Fig.

15—Hydraulic Reaction Assembly

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL STEERING—405

OIL IS SUPPLIED FROM MAIN LINE AT OPERATING PRESSURE. DRIVER'S STEERING FORCE PASSES

FROM WORM CONNECTOR TO REACTION RING TO THE OIL-FILLED SEAL WHICH RESISTS BEING SQUEEZED BECAUSE OF THE PRESSURE WITHIN IT. THIS RESISTANCE GIVES DRIVER THE "FEEL" OF STEERING BECAUSE OPERATING PRESSURE IS PROPORTIONAL TO TURNING LOAD.

UPPER PISTON

ROD

WORM SEAL

CONNECTOR RETAINERS

OIL FROM

MAIN LINE

VALVE

SPOOL

•-VALVE

OPERATING ROD

Fig.

16—Hydraulic Reaction Chamber

so oil pressure drops to its lowest point. Power assistance ceases and the front wheels remain where the steering wheel indicates. The entire action is instantaneous because the relative movement between valve and piston is so slight.

What causes the relative movement between these parts and how does the driver get his "feel" of the road?

The first important fact to remember is that the valve is mechanically connected to the steering wheel, as shown in Figure 15. The valve solidly connects to the worm connector through

the valve-operating rod. The worm connector is

attached to the steering wheel through a worm shaft, as shown in Figure 11. Hence, the slightest steering wheel movement is transferred

through the worm connector to the valve.

Another important fact, is that the upper pis-

ton rod is hydraulically attached to the worm connector through two seal retainers and a rubber reaction seal whenever the power system is operating (Fig. 16). The connection is called hy-

draulic because the rubber seal, one of the con-

necting links between the worm connector and

piston rod, is filled with oil. Oil from the main oil line is supplied to the seal through a hole

VALVE CONTROL SPACER SEAL

OPERATING CLEARANCES

53x862

drilled in the piston and another drilled down the long axis of the upper piston rod. The oil in the reaction seal is, therefore, at full operating pressure.

Suppose the steering wheel is turned in such a direction so that the worm connector (and valve) tries to move up (right turn). In trying to move up, the worm connector pushes on the lower seal retainers and squeezes the oil-filled seal. Because the valve has been in neutral position until this instant, the pressure inside the reaction seal is low and the seal compresses, allowing the worm connector — and valve — to move without moving the piston rod. In other words, there is relative motion between the valve and piston which is fastened to the piston rod.

Therefore, oil pressure rises in the system because of the restrictions between the valve and valve body, and the piston begins to move the steering parts that connect to the front wheels. At the same time, the higher oil pressure is felt inside the oil-filled reaction seal.

The greater pressure inside the reaction seal

attempts to force the seal and the worm connector back to their original (neutral) positions. Therefore, the driver feels a resistance to turning the steering wheel (a resistance proportional

OIL

RING

"O"

RING

SNAP RING

OIL SEAL

ROD,

LEVER

BODY

PLUNGER

SPRING

"O"

RETAINER

RING

"O"

RING

PISTON AND ROD

RETAINER

RING

"O"

RING'

SNAP RING-

RING<

HEAD-

SCREW

HOUSING

"O"

RING

COVER \

SNAP RING

ADAPTER SCREW

WASHER

GASKET

.. RETAINER

^f I

ADAPTER

DISC

CUP

WORM

\ BEARING

CUP INNER

--*. GUIDE

^ CLAMP

SCREW

SPACER

Fig.

17—Coaxial Power Steering (Exploded View)

BALL PACKAGE

XUP OUTER

'PLUG

PLUG

HOUSING

BEARING

CUP OUTER

WASHER

C P INNER

WASHER

OIL SEAL

WASHER

55x84

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

STEERING—407

to the steering resistance at the road). This permits a desirable "feel" of the road with a minimum of driving effort.

It should be remembered that the process just described is instantaneous as far as the driver is concerned; it has been broken into steps simply for explanation.

The driver controls the front wheels surely and accurately with his steering wheel. If he stops turning, piston movement will return the system to neutral, as already explained. If he keeps turning, he maintains the relative movement between valves and piston, and the power

system keeps operating. During operation, the driver always "feels" the road through the steering wheel.

The driver is helped by power assistance, if road disturbances try to turn the front wheels off course. When a driver holds the steering wheel fixed, he actually is commanding the

power system to hold the front wheels fixed, regardless of the forces that try to turn them. The power system complies by acting "in

reverse" whenever road obstructions jar the

wheels. For example, suppose the front wheel strikes a rut or chuck hole. The wheel begins

to deflect from its course. The first slightest

amount of off-course deflection is transmitted through the steering linkage to the hydraulic piston. The piston moves a fraction. However, because the driver is holding the steering wheel, the valve cannot move. There is relative motion between the valve and piston (this time caused by piston motion rather than the valve motion). Therefore, oil pressure builds up in the one end of the cylinder, creating a hydraulic force that pushes the piston back toward the neutral position in direct opposition to the disturbing obstruction. Hence, the front wheels The driver maintains control on bad roads with a minimum of steering effort.

If oil pressure is somehow interrupted (such as the fan belt breaking), the small operating clearances in the hydraulic reaction chamber close up as the driver turns the wheel one way or the other, giving solid metal connections (Fig. 16). Therefore, the system steers mechanically; that travel through the worm connector, through one seal retainer, through the piston rod and piston, and through the rack and sector gear to the linkage that connects to the front condition is allowed to continue, steering wheel play will greatly increase and oil will be pumped out of the system through the reservoir vent.

is,

steering wheel movements

not turn.

wheels.

If this

MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENT

POWER STEERING

16.

REMOVAL OF COAXIAL POWER STEERING UNIT FROM CAR

Remove horn ring ornament from steering wheel. Disconnect horn wire and remove horn ring. Remove steering wheel with puller and remove turn signal lever and plate. Loosen the steering column to instrument panel bracket.

Loosen steering column jacket clamp screws and raise front of car. Disengage drag link from Pitman arm and pull Pitman arm with

Tool C-3402. Loosen three gear housing to frame attaching ing plate and rubber dust pad. Disconnect pres-

sure and return hoses and drain gear assembly by slowly rotating steering wheel until all oil is

expelled from unit. Fasten disconnected ends

hoses above oil level in reservoir to prevent

further loss of oil and cap the ends to prevent

bolts.

Remove floor mat retain-

any foreign matter from entering. Remove gear housing to frame attaching bolts and alignment

wedge. Remove gear assembly from lower side

of car.

17.

a. Precautions to Follow During Disassembly

Cleanliness throughout the entire disassembly and assembly operations is absolutely essential. The unit should be thoroughly cleaned in a suitable solvent when removed from vehicle. When disassembling, each part should be placed in the solvent, washed, and dried by compressed air. Careful handling of parts must be exercised to avoid nicks and burrs. Crocus cloth may be used to remove small nicks or burrs, provided it is used carefully. When used on valve

DISASSEMBLING THE COAXIAL POWER

STEERING UNIT (Fig. 17)

and Assembly

COAXIAL

408—STEERING

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

spool, use extreme care not to round off the sharp edge portion. The sharp edge portion is vitally important to this type of valve since it helps to prevent dirt and foreign matter from getting between the valve and bore, thus reduc ing the possibilities of sticking.

Remove and discard all "0" seal rings, and

seals.

Use new ones lubricated with Lubriplate when reassembling. To disassemble the Power Steering Unit for repair or overhaul, refer to Figure 17, and proceed as follows:

Removal of Worm Housing from Gear

Housing

Drain lower portion of steering gear through pressure and return connections by turning steering tube coupling from one extreme of travel to the other. Using a %e inch Allen wrench, remove worm housing filler plug and drain the worm (upper) housing. Attach holding fixture to unit and place in a vise. Use concave type washers when mounting steering housing

on tool. Remove tube coupling screw, lockwasher and washer from center of coupling. Remove coupling from worm shaft, as shown in Figure

18.

Remove the worm housing oil seal with a screwdriver from the housing. Use extreme care to avoid damaging housing when removing seal. Unlock bearing adjusting nut by bending tang of lockwasher. (Only one tang locks nut in position.) Place tools over worm shaft, as

shown in Figure 19. Holding the worm stationary, remove worm bearing adjusting nut, lockwasher and thrust washer. The worm bearing adjusting nut is tapered on the bearing side. Remove the worm outer bearing race and bearing roller from worm. Remove the three worm

to gear housing screws and concave washers and remove worm housing. It may be necessary to tap housing lightly due to interference fit

with "0" ring seal between housing head and

housing. The concave side of the washers fit

against housing. Use care to avoid dropping the inner bearing during this operation. Remove lower bearing roller from housing. Inspect bearing roller and the upper and lower bearing cups

in housing. Do not remove bearing cups unless

inspection reveals it is necessary. To remove upper and lower bearing cups, use Tool C-3322, as shown in Figure 20.

c. Removal of Worm Connector Remove housing head "0" ring. Unlock worm

connector nut lock and slide lock back sufficient-

ly to loosen worm connector nut. With Tool C3321 attach to worm connector, remove connector nut, as shown in Figure 21. It may be necessary to rotate steering gear shaft (by installing Pitman arm), to raise worm connector in order to permit installation of Tool C-3326.

Slide worm connector assembly from valve con-

trol spacer. d. Disassembly of Worm Connector Assembly

Disassembly of the worm connector and worm shaft assembly is not recommended unless damaged or worn.

CAUTION

Caution should be exercised not to bottom the worm shaft in the outward direction upon disassembly or assembly. Bottoming the worm shaft may damage the ball guides and cause a

tight and rough operating worm.

COUPLING

Fig.

18—Removing Tube Coupling (Tool C-3392)

53x801

HOLD

WORM SHAFT

STATIONARY

54x626 Fig.

19—Removing or Installing Bearing

Adjusting Nut

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

STEERING—409

J--

I H I l I 1

_; REMOVING INNER BEARING CUP INSTALLING INNER BEARING CUP

Fig.

20—Removing or Installing Upper and Lower Bearing Cups (Tool C-3322)

REMOVING OUTER BEARING CUP

INSTALLING OUTER BEARING CUP

Remove the worm connector ball guide clamp screws and lockwashers. Remove guide clamp, as shown in Figure 22. Using care to avoid

losing any of the worm balls, carefully remove the ball guide from the worm connector. Worm

-L--TT-

53x805

balls are a select fit with each other. If any of them are damaged and require replacing, it is recommended that a complete set (40) be installed.

WORM CONNECTOR

54x628

Fig.

21—Removing or Installing Worm

TOOL

Connector Nut

WORM CONNECTOR NUT

54x629

WORM

BALL GUIDE CLAMP

BALL GUIDE-

WORM CONNECTOR-

CONNECTOR NUT LOCK-

Fig.

22—Ball Guide and Guide Clamp

410—STEERING CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

PISTON AND ROD ASSEMBLY

GEAR HOUSING

54x630

Fig.

23—Removing Gear Shaft Oil Seal

(Tool C-3350)

Turn worm connector assembly over and carefully thread the remaining worm balls out of the worm connector by turning the worm in and out. Count the worm balls which were removed. There should be a total of 40 balls. Remove worm from connector. Slide connector nut lock from connector. Inspect guide rails on connector for nicks and burrs.

e. Removal of Piston and Rods from Gear

Housing

To remove the steering gear shaft oil seal, remove lock ring, and proceed as follows. Slide threaded portion of tool over steering shaft, and screw tightly into seal. To do this, install tool

GEAR SHAFT

THRUST WASHER

54x633

Fig.

25—Removing Piston and Rod Assembly

nut on steering gear shaft and force the threaded portion of tool into seal. Install the two half collars to lock the tool together, and install the half collar retaining ring. Turn nut and pull seal out of housing, as shown in Figure

23.

Remove the tool.

Remove the lock nut from shaft adjusting

screw. Remove the three screws from cover.

Remove the steering gear shaft cover from

housing by turning adjusting screw in.

Remove steering gear shaft assembly from gear housing by using a fiber hammer and tapping lightly. Align gear on gearshaft to clear opening in lower housing before attempting removal. Removal of adjusting screw is not necessary unless screw is damaged.

Using Tool C-3229, remove adjusting screw retainer snap ring. Remove adjusting screw, thrust washer, and washer from steering gear shaft, as shown in Figure 24. Remove adjusting

^ „ "O" RING

WASHER-

ADJUSTING SCREW-

LOCK RIN<

Fig.

24—Gear Shaft Adjusting Screw Assembly

54x631

VALVE ROD ADJUSTING DISC

VALVE ROD ADJUSTING DISC RETAINER

Fig.

26—Removing Valve Rod Adjusting Disc

53x811

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL STEERING—411

UPPER PISTON ROD

UPPER PISTON

ROD NUT

53x812

Fig.

27—Removing Upper Piston Rod Nut

(Tool C-3328)

screw "O" ring. Inspect bearing surface on shaft for being pitted or scored. Inspect condition of teeth on shaft. Place a suitable container under the assembly to catch trapped oil and slide piston assembly and rods from gear housing, as shown in Figure 25.

CAUTION

Use extreme care in handling to avoid dam-

aging the sealing surfaces on housing

head.

f. Disassembly of Piston and Rods

Remove valve rod adjusting disc from valve

VALVE CONTROL SPACER WORM CONNECTOR NUT HOUSING HEAD

HOUSING HEAD"

Fig.

29—Removing or Installing Housing Head

rod,

as shown in Figure 26. To remove a tight

53x815

fitting adjusting disc, wrap tape around the edge (this will prevent damaging disc), and grip it with multi-grip pliers. Tool C-3445 may be used to easily turn the valve rod from the disc.

Slide valve rod adjusting disc retainer from upper piston rod, as shown in Figure 26. Remove upper piston rod nut lock cap. Remove upper piston rod nut, as shown in Figure 27.

If the piston and upper piston rod turn when removing the upper piston rod nut, wrap several layers of masking tape around center piston,

and clamp in a vise with protective jaws. The piston nut can then be removed. Support upper piston rod on a block of wood to help

prevent damaging the housing head when remov-

ing nut. Slide valve control spacer assembly from upper piston rod, as shown in Figure 28. Remove spacer seal retainers from spacer and

slide seal assembly from valve control spacer.

Remove worm connector nut from upper piston rod. Slide housing head off upper piston rod, as shown in Figure 29. Remove housing head

"0"

ring. Using a suitable drift, remove upper

piston rod seal (lip type) from housing head.

CONTROL SPACER RETAINER

VALVE ROD'

Fig.

28—Removing Valve Control Spacer Seal and

Seal Assembly

53x813

PISTON RING (STEEL)

Fig.

30—Removing Piston Rings

UPPER PISTON ROD SNAP RING

53x816

412—STEERING

PISTON ASSEMBLY

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

VALVE ASSEMBLY

Fig.

31—Removing Valve Assembly from Piston

53x819

Remove the two backup (steel) and "D" type

(neoprene) piston rings from piston, as shown in Figure 30. Part of the 1955 production does not use steel rings. A new and wider type rubber ring is used instead.

Using snap ring pliers, remove lower piston rod snap ring and slide lower piston rod from piston.

Using care not to bend the valve piston rod,

slide valve assembly from piston assembly, as shown in Figure 31. Using a lA inch punch,

drive piston pin into upper piston rod, as shown in Figure 32. Using snap ring pliers, remove upper piston rod snap ring. Note the position

and construction of snap ring.

Remove upper piston rod from piston, as

shown in Figure 33. Using a wire hook, remove

piston pin and "0" ring from piston rod, as

PISTON PIN HOLES

53x821

Fig.

33—Removing Upper Piston Rod

shown in Figure 34. Make sure the oil passage is open. Inspect the sealing surface on piston rod for being scored. Remove the two small valve rod "O" rings from the bore of the upper piston rod (one in each end). Remove the large upper piston rod "O" ring.

Remove lower piston rod "0" ring. Inspect rack teeth and sealing surfaces on lower piston rod.

g. Removal of Relief Valve Assembly

Thread a V4 inch 28NF bolt into threads provided in plug (Fig. 35). Clamp bolt head in a vise and, by pulling on lower piston rod, plug can be removed. Should end plug be seized in rod, a fiber

hammer may be used to tap on retaining flange of lower piston rod. Inspect piston for nicks and burrs. Make sure all oil passages are open and free from dirt.

53*MO

Fig.

32—Removing Upper Piston Rod Pin

UPPER PISTON ROD

PISTON PIN ASSEMBLY

WIRE HOOK

Fig.

34—Removing Piston Pin from Upper

Piston Rod

53x822

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

STEERING—413

RELIEF VALVE PLUG

LOWER PISTON

Fig.

35—Removing Lower Piston Rod Relief

ROD

54x636

Valve Plug

h. Disassembly of Steering Gear Housing Inspect steering gear shaft needle bearing in

gear housing for broken or rough needles. Do not remove bearing unless inspection reveals it is necessary to do so. If it is necessary to remove needle bearings, use puller Tool C-3333 to pull steering gear housing shaft needle bearings from inside gear housing as shown in Figure 36.

Using snap ring pliers, remove gear housing

cover snap ring (tapered) at bottom of housing.

TOOL

55x173

Fig.

37—Removing Lower Piston Rod Seal

(Tool.

C-3331)

Remove housing cover and remove "0" ring from housing. Use extreme care when removing the lower plug to prevent cocking. A cocked plug

is apt to result in a broken gear housing.

Remove lower piston rod seal (lip type) from housing, as shown in Figure 37. The lower rod is supported by a half bushing. The bushing is a friction fit over a dowel pin. If it is necessary to replace the support bushing it may be pried from the dowel pin with a screwdriver.

18.

ASSEMBLY OF COAXIAL POWER

STEERING GEAR

a. Assembly of Steering Gear Housing

Fig.

36—Removing Steering Gear Housing Shaft

Needle Bearing (Tool

C-3333)

Place a new piston rod seal over driver so the lip will be facing up or to the inside of the cylin-

DRfVER

PISTON

ROD

SEAL

ALIGNING PILOT

54x639

Fig.

38—Installing Lower Piston Rod Seal

(Tool C-3395)

414—STEERING

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

PISTON

BUSHING

Fig.

39—Support Bushing Installed

der when installed. Insert seal aligning pilot tool

end

driver and drive lower piston rod

seal into position

gear housing,

shown

Figure 38.

Using driver

needle bearing assemblies

bearings bottom Always drive

Tool

in the

letter side

C-3333,

bores

install housing shaft

gear housing until

(if

removed).

bearing. Other-

wise, damage to bearing may result. Install pis-

ton rod support bushing in housing, making sure bushing is properly seated over dowel, as shown in Figure 39

Assembly

Insert relief valve spring followed

(if

previously removed).

Piston and Rods

plunger into valve body and insert assembly (milled end first) into lower piston rod. Press end plug into lower piston

rod

sufficiently

seat against

the

relief valve body.

VALVE AND VALVE

Fig.

41—Installing Valve Assembly

ROD

53x831

NOTE

A suitable adaptor will be required to press end plug into place. Otherwise, damage result.

plug

is not

pressed

in far

properly seat against the valve

duce a rattling draulic pressure pressed ports

in too

in the the plunger resulting

clattering sound when

applied.

tightly,

valve body

and

lack

will cause

collapse, creating high back pressure, of

steering assistance

to rod

body,

If the

will enough it

will pro-

hy-

plug

the

relief

restricting

and a

hissing noise.

Remove Lubricate Lubriplate piston

rings

all

burrs from around

the two

and

rod, as

are

seated properly. Lubricate

valve

install one

shown

rod "0"

Figure

the

rings with

each end

40.

end plug.

upper

Make sure

the two large "O" rings with Lubriplate and install one on each upper they seat properly lower piston rod (with rack) into end

assembly opposite pliers,

install snap ring.

and

lower piston rod. Make sure

in the pin

ring grooves. Install

hole. Using snap ring

piston

;<O>< RING

Fig.

40—Installing Valve

53x830

Rod "O"

Ring

53x832

PISTON

UPPER PISTON

Fig.

42—Installing Upper Piston

HOLES

VALVE

PISTON

ROD

Rod

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

PISTON PIN

O" RING SEAL

53x833

Fig.

43—Installing Piston Pin

NOTE

When installing the snap ring, it must be installed with the tapered side away from the piston

that the taper is visible after installation. The gap between the ends of the installed snap ring should be measured to be sure the ring is seated. inch.

The minimum permissible gap is 2%

Be sure the snap ring

does

not restrict any

part of the ports in the end of the piston rod.

Lubricate valve assembly with Lubriplate

STEERING—415

SEAL RETAINER ASSEMBLY

Fig.

45—Installing Valve Control Spacer

(Tool C-3393)

and slide into position in assembly, as shown in Figure 41. Using care not to damage the "0" rings,

slide upper piston rod over the valve rod, aligning the piston pin hole in the piston assembly with the hole in the upper piston rod, as shown in Figure 42. Lubricate a new piston pin

"0"

ring with Lubriplate and install on piston pin, as shown in Figure 43. With the piston pin holes aligned in both the piston and upper piston rod, position piston pin (tapered end first) in position. Use a % inch punch and hammer, tap lightly until piston pin is flush or slightly below bottom of piston ring groove (Figure 43).

If piston pin is too high in groove, piston ring will not properly seal. This will cause unequal pressure when valve is centered in piston.

Using snap ring pliers, install the upper pis-

ton rod snap ring. Use the same precautions

and specifications as previously used in positioning the lower piston rod snap ring. Select snap

ring of sufficient thickness to prevent turning of snap ring after it is installed. If it is too loose, the piston will move with relation to the piston

55x175

TOOL

Fig.

44—Installing Upper Piston Rod Seal

(Tool C-3395)

53x834

Fig.

46—Locking Upper Piston Rod Nut Lock Cap

53x837

416—STEERING

SfEEL RINGS-

TYPE NEOPRENE RINGS

53x839

Fig.

47—Installing Piston Rings

rod and prevent consistent adjustment of control valve. Place a new upper piston rod seal on

jdriver (lip of seal facing" tool). Insert seal in

end of driver and drive upper piston rod seal

(lip of seal out) into position in housing head,

as shown in Figure 44. Lubricate seal with Lu-

briplate.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

GEAR SHAFT ADJUSTING SCREW

TOOL

Fig.

49—Installing Gear Shaft Adjusting Screw

"O"

Ring (Tool C-3401)

install in center of valve control spacer. Should it be necessary to replace the valve control

spacer or upper piston rod for any reason, al-

ways select a spacer to match. The length of the valve control spacer selected must be identical to the distance between the seat of the valve control spacer seal retainer and seated upper piston rod nut. Place tool over threaded end of upper piston rod.

Install housing head assembly (sealing lip first) onto upper piston rod. Use same precautions to protect sealing surfaces on housing

head as used when disassembling. Slide con-

nector nut onto the upper piston rod with open threaded end away from piston. Lubricate the valve control spacer seal with Lubriplate and

TOOl

TOOi

Fig.

48—Installing Piston and Rod Assembly

Lubricate the valve control spacer retainers with Lubriplate and place into position (small diameter first) so they nest in valve control spacer. Slide spacer, seal and retainer assembly over tool and into position on piston rod, as shown in Figure 45, and remove tool.

Install upper piston rod nut and, using Tool C-3328, tighten from 25 to 30 foot-pounds

torque. Lock in place using piston rod nut lock by tapping outer diameter of lock into nut recess,

as shown in Figure 46.

Slide valve rod adjusting disc retainer (largest diameter first) over end of upper piston rod. Thread valve rod disc (extended lock thread section outward) onto valve rod until approximately three threads show for aid in later adjustment. When installing disc on rod, consider-

able resistance should be noticed. If not, crimp

end of disc slightly to cause the threads of the disc to bind on rod. The maximum torque required to turn disc on rod should not exceed 20 inch-pounds, maximum. Place lock sleeve on worm connector (tang of sleeve) toward threaded end.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

55x176

Fig.

50—Positioning Rack

Lubricate the two "D" type (neoprene) piston rings with Lubriplate and install on piston. To aid in installation of rings, first slide rings over ring lands and to center of piston, with lips facing away from each other. Slide rings into position in ring lands, as shown in Figure 47. Install back-up (steel) rings, one on each end

of the piston. Part of production does not use

steel rings. Wider rubber rings are used instead.

c. Installation oi Piston and Rod Assembly in

Gear Housing

Lubricate lower piston rod, teeth of rack and

tool with Lubriplate, and position tool in teeth

of rack. Lubricate large "0" rings with Lubriplate and install on the side of housing head that faces piston assembly.

For

Timing

STEERING—417

54x647

Fig.

51—Installing Gear Shaft

(Tool

C-3350)

d. Installing Gear Shaft Install thrust button on gear shaft adjusting

screw and position tool over thread of screw. Lubricate gear shaft adjusting screw "O" ring with Lubriplate and slide over tool and into position on adjusting screw, as shown in Figure

49.

Remove tool and insert adjusting screw thrust button into gear end of steering gear shaft. Insert adjusting screw assembly into gear shaft and lock in position by installing internal snap ring. Use pliers, Tool C-3229, and make sure snap ring is properly seated. Screw the shaft adjusting screw with gear attached

into the gear shaft cover assembly as far as

possible. Position center groove (third from

Oil

Seal

Place ring compressing tool on gear housing. Position piston and rod assembly so the teeth on rack are 180 degrees from bushing support and install into gear housing, as shown in Figure 48. Use extreme care when performing this operation so as not to damage gear housing oil seal or piston rings. Do not use a screwdriver to compress piston rings. To further aid in installation, piston and cylinder may be lubricated with Lubriplate. If the rack is not positioned properly when it is installed, it may be corrected by rotating the lower piston rod with a screwdriver through opening in end of gear housing. Remove ring compressing tool and

other tool from teeth of rack through opening

in gear housing.

Fig.

52—Removing Sleeve (Part

with Friction Tape

Tool

54x648

C-3350)

418—STEERING

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

either end) of the rack over center line of the gear shaft cover opening in gear housing. Position the middle tooth of the gear shaft with the third tooth groove from (either) end of rack. Insert gear shaft assembly with cover attached into gear housing, and tap lightly into position, as shown in Figure 50. It is of the utmost im-

portance that the center tooth of the gear shaft lines up with the center slot in the lower piston rod rack. Failure to observe this precaution will result in a broken gear housing. Install gasket

and cover and tighten the cover screws evenly.

e. Seal

Before attempting to install a new gear shaft

seal, thoroughly clean the sealing surfaces on the gear shaft and counterbore of steering gear shaft oil seal with Lubriplate and place (lip of

seal down) on a piece of clean paper. Carefully

install tapered end of sleeve (part of Tool

C-3350) in seal and slide seal back approxi-

mately 14 *

ncn

on sleeve. Install this assembly

(lip of seal toward housing) over steering gear shaft until seal contacts counterbore in housing. Push seal into position by installing adaptor over sleeve, and installing coupling nut on shaft threads until shoulder of adaptor contacts housing, as shown in Figure 51. Remove nut and adaptor. Wrap a new piece of friction tape around sleeve to provide a firm grip and, with a turning motion, remove sleeve from seal and gear shaft, as shown in Figure 52. Seal is then positioned properly. Install oil seal lock ring

(circular section) and make sure it is properly seated. Install gear shaft adjusting screw lock nut, but do not tighten.

f. Assembly of Worm Connector

(If Disassembled)

Insert worm into connector and visually align the upper portion of the passages with the ball

guide holes. The balls which are used in the

worm connector are a select fit with each other.

If any of them become lost or damaged, a com-

plete set (40) must be installed. Balls which fit

tight will result in increased and erratic steer-

ing effort and also lack of returnability. Balls

which fit too loose will result in free play of the

steering wheel before valve actuation or steer-

ing is accomplished.

Insert 30 worm balls (no more) into lower

hole by tapping them in gently (use the rubber end of lead pencil or similar object) while slightly oscillating the worm. When the 30 balls have been inserted, they should be visible in the

other hole. Place the remaining worm balls (10) in either half of the worm connector ball guide.

Grease end balls to help hold them in place and add other half of ball guide assembly. Insert assembly into holes until it seats on worm con-

nector. Place ball guide clamp into position on

ball guide, install the two lockwashers and

screws and tighten to 12 foot-pounds torque.

Check the operation of worm, making sure it is

free to turn the maximum travel of the worm

shaft. Caution should be exercised not to bottom

worm in the outward direction. Otherwise, dam-

age to the ball return guide may result and

cause a rough or tight operating worm.

Slide the worm connector and worm shaft

assembly over control spacer and screw worm

connector nut onto connector. Pull worm shaft

up about one inch and wrap several layers of

masking tape around worm. Hold worm con-

nector with Tool C-3321. Using Tool C-3326,

tighten the nut. Stake ring with punch and re-

move masking tape.

g. Assembly of Worm Housing

If bearing cups were removed from worm hous-

ing during disassembly, refer to Figure 20 and

proceed as follows. Install worm housing upper

bearing cup (wide section of cup first) into

worm housing. Make sure cup seats properly in

housing. Install worm housing lower bearing

cup (wide section of cup first) into worm hous-

ing. Make sure cup seats properly in housing.

h. Installation of Worm Housing

Lubricate worm housing inner bearing race

with Lubriplate, and slide (wide section of cone first) over threaded end of worm until it seats. Lubricate worm connector guide rail with Lu-

briplate. Lubriplate upper housing head "O"

ring with Lubriplate and install on housing

head pilot opposite piston side. Install "O" ring

on inner land of housing head. If it is installed

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

ROTATE

COUNTER-CLOCKWISE

STEERING—419

TIGHTEN

CLOCK-WISE

54x642

Fig.

53—Adjusting Worm Housing Bearings (Inner)

on outer land, damage to housing will result when they are attached to each other.

Drop inner bearing into housing and hold in place. Guide worm housing over rails on worm connector (ball guide down) until it is flush with gear housing. If flanges cannot be

installed flush, the housing head "O" ring is installed on the outer rather than the inner land and will have to be changed. Worm housing cannot be installed if bearing is installed on worm shaft prior to installing housing.

Install the three screws and concave washers, draw down evenly and tighten from 25 to 30 foot-pounds torque. Lubricate worm outer bearing roller with Lubriplate and install in bearing cup. Position race in bearing. Slide thrust washer over worm and against outer bearing race,

and follow with worm bearing nut lockwasher. Turn worm shaft out until lower race seats in bearing. Install worm housing bearing adjusting nut over shaft (tapered end first). Slide Tool C-3320 over worm shaft, followed by Tool C-3310. Using Tool C-3319 and a torque wrench, turn the worm shaft counter-clockwise to 20 foot-pounds against the inner bearing

(Fig. 53).

54x643

Fig.

54—Adjusting Worm Housing Bearings (Outer)

Rotate the worm shaft several times in order to properly seat bearings. Loosen adjusting nut and hold worm shaft at 5 foot-pounds counterclockwise against inner bearing, using Tool C-3319 and a torque wrench.

Retighten adjusting nut clockwise to 5 inchpounds, as shown in Figure 55. Lock adjusting nut in position by bending tang of lockwasher to index with slot in the nut. Only one tang is

necessary to lock nut. A loose adjustment will result in free play. Too tight an adjustment will result in erratic valve action and lack of return-

ability. Install worm housing oil seal by lightly

tapping with plastic or rubber hammer until

INCH POUNDS

WRENCH

While holding worm shaft against bearing at 20 foot-pounds torque, tighten the adjusting nut clockwise to 15 foot-pounds, as shown in Figure

54,

using Tool C-3320 and another torque

wrench.

Fig.

55—Final Worm Housing Bearing Adjustment

54x644

420—STEERING

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

-TOOL

55x177

Fig.

56—Adjusting Manual Control Valve to Neutral

(Tool C-3445)

forcing the piston to its full length of travel. Adjust gear into a backlash condition, and tighten lock nut. This adjustment is necessary before adjusting manual control valve to neutral position and is not to be considered a final adjustment.

Filling worm housing is very important since

there is no hydraulic connection between the

worm and gear housing. Add type "A" oil to

the worm housing through the worm housing

filler hole. Keep gear assembly in a level position to facilitate filling. Install worm housing oil filter plug and tighten to equivalent of 50 inch-pounds torque.

direction until arm starts to move. Slightly rotate tool in opposite direction until arm stops moving. Install a 17/16 inch socket on a torque wrench and place on Pitman arm retaining nut. Rotate gear shaft in both directions from one extreme of travel to the other. The torque required to move the shaft should be the same in both directions.

Where torque is higher in one direction than in the opposite, rotate the valve adjusting tool, as shown in Figure 56, slightly in the opposite direction to the direction in which the Pitman arm has the highest torque reading. Change valve position in slight variations, at a time, to prevent over adjusting. When torque is the same in both directions, remove the tool.

Installing Coupling at Center of No Backlash

Position and Gear Shaft Adjustment

The gear shaft teeth before production coaxial gears have unequal widths. This design allows for a period of travel through a center arc with

no backlash. But, beyond 150 to 170 degrees on

each side of the center of this arc, backlash is

apparent. Later models have gear shafts with

equal width teeth and, when adjusted properly,

have no backlash for the full travel of the gear.

Each type of gear requires a different procedure

for determining the correct position for the

coupling.

The steering tube coupling must be installed

with the slot in the coupling in the vertical

19.

ADJUSTING COAXIAL GEAR ASSEMBLIES

(Removed)

a. Valve Neutral Position

Connect test hoses to hydraulic pump on car and to steering assembly. Remove oil reservoir cover. Start engine and operate at idle. Fill reservoir to level mark and allow system to warm up. Oil level must be maintained above filter while hydraulically centering valve.

Insert manual control valve centering tool

(slotted end first) into worm shaft and engage slot in tool with tang on control valve operating rod.

(Tool C-3445 can be rotated by using a tap wrench.) If Pitman arm moves to one extreme or the other and stays there, rotate tool in either

SLOT

Fig.

57—Installing Coupling

COUPLING

x 732

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

STEERING—421

plane, as shown in Figure 57. There are no mas-

ter serrations on either the worm shaft or the

coupling. A mark is scribed on the coupling. This mark should be set at 12 o'clock when the steering worm shaft is at center so that the steering tube master serration will be in position to allow for proper installation of steering wheel.

c. Unequal Width Teeth Gear Shaft

(Before Type Gear Shaft)

Check the steering for being properly centered by turning the coupling in each direction from the center. Pitman arm backlash should become

evident at equal distances in both directions when turning from center. It may be necessary to reposition the coupling to obtain equal travel

in both directions in which case it will be neces-

sary to readjust Pitman arm backlash.

d. Equal Width Teeth Gear Shafts

(After Type Gear Shaft)

A new gear shaft entered production in the

Power Steering Units. This new shaft has an

equal width center tooth and requires a different

adjustment procedure than the adjustment used

on gears built with the unequal center tooth. The

letter "O" is stenciled on the steering arm end

of the new shaft for positive identification.

Center the steering tube coupling or steering wheel to the overall travel of the steering gear. With gear in center position, loosen adjustment

until there is some backlash. Slowly turn the adjusting screw in until the backlash disappears.

Turn the adjusting screw in three-fourths

of a turn and lock in position.

NOTE

Use a very light feather touch on the steering

arm when checking for backlash.

The new equal tooth gear shaft may be in-

stalled in previously built gears without changing the lower piston rod. However, if a new shaft is used, this adjustment must be followed.

If difficulty is experienced in adjusting the

gear shaft in previously built gears, the following check can be made to determine if the new equal tooth gear shaft may have been installed. With the steering gear centered, turn the ad-

justing screw until a small amount of backlash can be felt. Turn the coupling or steering wheel slowly to either extreme limit of travel. If the amount of backlash increases as it is turned, it is an indication that the unit has the original unequal tooth gear shaft. If the amount of backlash does not increase, then the new equal tooth gear shaft has been installed. Identification of the new gear shaft can also be made upon inspection of the shaft by the absence of the chamfer on the center tooth.

20.

INSTALLATION OF COAXIAL POWER

STEERING GEAR (In Car)

Install the Coaxial Power Steering Gear assembly from under the car, and up through the dash panel into the jacket. Install housing to frame attaching bolts, flat washers, swivel washers and nuts, but do not tighten. Swivel washers permit alignment of housing to dash.

Slide steering column jacket down over worm

housing. Install turn signal lever, being sure column jacket does not restrict lever. Tighten jacket to Coaxial housing clamp. Connect turn

signal wires. Install steering column to instru-

ment panel bracket and install steering wheel.

If clearance between steering column jacket and

steering wheel is less than % inch, adjust steer-

ing column jacket to provide proper clearance.

Install dust pads and retaining plates.

Tighten front upper and lower gear housing to frame attaching bolts to 20 foot-pounds torque. Install wedge over rear bolt between housing and frame, so that tapered surfaces match, tapping it lightly in place. Tighten three attaching bolts to 70 foot-pounds torque. Install horn ring and horn wire in steering wheel and install horn ring ornament.

Connect hoses from steering gear to hydraulic pump.

21.

ADJUSTMENTS OF COAXIAL GEAR

(Installed)

Adjusting Manual Control Valve (Centering Hydraulically.) (In Car.) Where it is difficult to rotate the steering wheel in one direction but not

in the other direction, or where the wheels turn

422—STEERING

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

•5.

"5L

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL STEERIN&-423

of their own accord, equalize tire pressure and check front wheel alignment. If conditions still

exist, it is an indication that the control valve is out of adjustment.

Remove parts, as necessary, to gain access to steering tube coupling. Remove coupling retaining screw, lockwasher, and plain washer from worm shaft. Insert manual control valve centering tool (slotted end first) into worm shaft and engage tool with tang on control valve operating rod. Two men are required to center the valve.

One man moves the valve as directed, while

another man checks the torque required to move the Pitman arm through its travel in both directions.

Move Pitman arm through travel from one extreme to the other with torque wrench, Tool C-3005 and 1%6 inch socket, observing the torque reading. The torque should be the same in both directions. Turn adjusting rod as required until an equal torque reading is obtained. The Pitman arm retaining nuts should be tightened to 120 foot-pounds torque.

NOTE

Where the gear shaft requires more than U0 foot-pounds torque to rotate it, and (or) where torque is uneven at any point through the full

travel of shaft, it probably has a cocked gear shaft cover, dirt has entered the interior, or the

circulating balls are defective or improperly installed.

22.

REPLACING STEERING GEAR SHAFT OIL

SEAL (Unit Mounted in Car)

The steering gear shaft oil seal may be replaced

(with the unit in car) similarly to the method

outlined in Paragraph 18.

23.

HYDRAULIC STEERING PUMP

PRESSURE CHECK

Should the lack of steering assistance (in both directions) be encountered and other checks have failed to reveal the cause, a pressure check should be made to determine if pump is operating properly, as follows:

Connect tachometer leads to coil and ground. Install gauge Tool C-3309 in pressure line between pump and hose. Refill reservoir to proper level. Open valve on gauge, start engine, and run

until power steering oil pump reaches oper-

ating temperature. With engine idling (475-500 r.p.m.), turn the shut-off valve on gauge to its closed position.

CAUTION

Do not keep valve

onds or accelerate engine with valve

closed

more than a few sec-

closed.

Otherwise, damage to the pump and (or) belt may result.

If the pressure does not gradually increase to at least 700 psi as the valve is closed, it is possibly due to the following conditions:

a. Fan belt slipping. Adjust the belts. Where two belts are used, make definitely sure both belts are adjusted or the condition will still exist.

Flow control valve stuck in open position. Remove the high pressure hose at the pump fitting and insert a *4 inch clean blunt rod against the valve plunger. If the plunger moves inward %6 to ^4 To correct, remove the flow control and relief valve assembly and inspect for nicks, burrs, or foreign matter. Small nicks or burrs may be removed by using crocus cloth. When reinstalling valve assembly, make sure it fits freely in the bore of pump cover. Recheck pump pressure after installation. If the pump pressure does not increase to at least 700 psi as the valve is closed, proceed as follows:

c. With cover removed from reservoir, start

the engine and observe whether oil is flowing through the filter. If it does not, remove the pump from generator (it is not necessary to

disconnect hose) and inspect for broken cou-

pling flange. If either coupling flange is broken,

disconnect hose, and remove pump and reser-

voir assembly from vehicle. Disassemble pump

and determine cause of coupling flange breaking.

24.

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF

HYDRAULIC STEERING PUMP ASSEMBLY

a. Removal

Disconnect the pressure and return hoses from

pump assembly. Loss of oil will be noted when

hoses are removed. Keep both hose ends up to

prevent excessive loss of oil. Ends of hose should

be covered or capped to prevent the entrance of

foreign matter.

incn> tne

plunger was stuck.

424—STEERING CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

Remove the pump to generator mounting screws and lockwashers. Remove pump and reservoir assembly from generator. Remove the rubber coupling.

Installation

Place the rubber coupling in position in pump assembly. Place pump and reservoir assembly in level position on back of generator, using care to index coupling. Pump mounting brackets have slotted holes to allow level positioning of pump reservoir (Figure 59). Install the pump to generator mounting bolts, lockwashers, and

washer. Draw down evenly and tighten to 17 foot-pounds torque. Connect the pressure and return hoses to pump and tighten. Refill the reservoir.

25.

SERVICING THE HYDRAULIC STEERING

PUMP (Fig. 58)

a. Disassembly

Do not disassemble the hydraulic pump in dirty surroundings or on a dirty work bench. Use

clean paper on bench. After the pump has been

disassembled, place the parts in a suitable cleaning solvent and protect them from dirt and chips.

Remove cover on reservoir and remove

filter.

Remove the two reservoir to pump attaching bolts and lockwashers, unscrew the filter element standpipe, and separate reservoir from pump.

There are four rubber "O" seal rings

between the reservoir and pump body. Using

holding Tool C-3227, remove coupling locking screw, lockwashers and coupling. The locking screw is of a special type for torquing purposes and should not be replaced with any other type. Place pump body in a vise equipped with protective jaws and remove the five body to cover attaching bolts. Remove cover and "0" seal ring.

Remove outer pump rotor by inverting and tapping pump body on wooden block. Remove pump shaft and inner rotor from pump body. Remove inner pump rotor from pump shaft by removing the rear circular section snap ring and

sliding rotor and drive key off shaft.

ADJUSTING BOLTS

RESERVOIR

Fig.

59—Adjusting Oil Pump to Level Oil

OIL

FOR

LEVEL

in Reservoir

valve spring. Tap cover on wooden block to remove the flow control and relief valve combination. To remove pressure relief valve and spring from flow control valve body, remove the internal snap ring, as shown in Figure 60.

Inspection

Clean all parts in a suitable solvent and blow

dry with compressed air. Inspect the babbitt

pump rotor bushing in pump body for wear or scoring. Inspect bronze pump shaft bearings in

To remove the combination control and relief valve in pump cover, remove the 1% inch hexagon spring retainer cap fitting and circular section rubber "0" ring. Lift out flow control

Fig.

60—Disassembly or Assembly of Pressure Relief

and Flow Control Valve (Tool C-3229)

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

STEERING—425

TOOL

Fig.

61—Removing Pump Cover Bushing

BUSHING

52x6<

cover and pump body. Inspect pump rotors and shaft for scoring and wear.

Position rotor and shaft in pump body. Using a straightedge and feeler gauge, check the end clearance. The specified limits are .001 inch to .002 inch. Inspect the pressure relief and flow control valves for scoring, replace if necessary.

c. Replacement of Pump Cover Bushing

Place pump cover in a vise equipped with protective jaws, install tool, and tap threads into bushing with outer section of tool, as shown in

Figure 61. When tool has been threaded into bushing sufficiently, screw "T"-handle section

of tool into cover until it bottoms, and continue

54x651

Fig.

63—Removing Pump Body Shaft Bushing

(Tool C-3185)

turning to remove bushing. Install bushing with tool, as shown in Figure 62.

d. Replacement of Pump Body Bushings Place pump body in vise equipped with protec-

tive jaws. Place pump cover on pump body and install attaching bolts. Install tool in cover bushing hole and thread tool into housing bush ing, as shown in Figure 63. Remove bushing and seal. (Always use a new seal when bushing is replaced.) Place bushing on tool, as shown in

Figure 64, start bushing squarely and drive into

place. e. Replacement of Outer Rotor Bushing (Babbitt)

Thread tool into pump body (cover removed).

TOOL

12x698

Fig.

62—Installing Pump Cover Bushing

TOOL

Fig.

64—Installing Shaft Bushing in Body

(Tool C-3233)

54x652

426—STEERING CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

TOOL

OIL SEAL

BUSHING

52x693 A

Fig.

65—Removing Babbitt Bushing from Body

(Tools C-3214 and C-3234)

Using adaptor, remove the bushing (Fig. 65). Clean all parts thoroughly in a suitable solvent and blow dry with compressed air.

f. Installation of Pump Body Outer Bushing

(Babbitt)

Start bushing squarely and, using tool, drift into place, as shown in Figure 66.

g. Installation of Pump Shaft Oil Seal Reposition pump body in vise. Place seal on tool,

as shown in Figure 67. Drive seal into position in pump body. To assemble pump, refer to Figure 58, and proceed as follows:

Lubricate all moving parts with clean SAE

10W engine oil or Automatic Transmission

54x653

Fig.

67—Installing Pump Shaft Oil Seal

(Tool C-3230)

Fluid, Type

"A".

Coat

"0"

seal rings with Lubri-

plate.

Reassemble combination flow control and

relief valve by inserting spring and relief valve,

with small end first. Compress valve and spring

and install snap ring. Make sure snap ring seats properly. Install the combination flow control and relief valve assembly into pump body, with the narrower land first. Insert spring, gasket,

and adaptor. Tighten adaptor to 50 foot-pounds torque.

Install inner pump rotor and drive key on

shaft and install snap ring. Install shaft protector thimble in pump body until it bottoms

as shown in Figure 68. Using care not to dam-

ROTOR --

TOOL

2x696

Fig.

66—Installing Babbitt Bushing in Body

Fig.

68—Installing Pump Rotor Shaft with Thimble

(Tool C-3350)

54x654

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

STEERING—427

cover in position on pump body and install the five attaching bolts and lockwashers. Tighten to 35 foot-pounds torque.

TOOL

54x655

Fig.

69—Tightening Coupling Screw

age the babbitt bushings when installing rotor,

insert rotor and shaft assembly, with coupling end first, into pump body. Insert outer rotor into pump body. Coat the "0" seal ring with Lubriplate and position on pump body. Place

bottoms and install special square washer, screw, and lockwasher. Using tool to hold coupling, as shown in Figure 69, tighten screw to 12 foot-pounds torque. To attach reservoir

Tap coupling flange on pump shaft until it

to pump, coat the

"0"

seal rings with Lubriplate. Install the two large and two small "0" rings on the reservoir mounting surface of pump. Place reservoir on pump, install filter standpipe stud and two reservoir to pump attaching screws.

Tighten screws to 17 foot-pounds torque. Install filter element and tighten filter retaining screw assembly until it seats on the screw shoulder.

Install cover to keep dirt out of pump until after

it has been installed on generator.

26.

FRONT WHEEL AUGNMENT

Refer to Front Wheel Alignment procedures in this section.

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

27.

LEAKAGE THROUGH VENT IN UPPER

HOUSING

Signs of oil at the upper housing vent hole does not necessarily indicate that an internal seal is causing the leaking. Make the following checks before disassembly of the unit:

Overfilling of the upper housing. If an upper housing has recently been refilled, oil may seep out the vent hole due to expansion after the gear has been operated.

If a unit has recently been installed, it is possible that in handling some oil may have become trapped in the vent passage and may drain as the gear is operated.

If doubt exists as to whether internal seal leakage is causing a leak at the vent, or whether

it is caused by one of the above conditions, make the following check: Insert a pipe cleaner, or a similar absorbent object, into the vent to absorb

any oil that may have been trapped in the vent passage. Start the engine and rotate the steering wheel from right to left, holding it against the wheel stop for a short time. Do not exceed

1400 engine r.p.m. or hold the wheels against

the stops longer than 15 seconds.

If the oil does not come out the vent during this test, there is no need for further corrective work. There is, however, a rare possibility that the neoprene plug could have been lost from the vent package inside the housing and caused the loss of all the oil in the upper housing.

NOTE

If it is not necessary to add oil to the reservoir

betiveen checking periods of 1,000 miles, it is

a good indication that there is not seal leakage,

but a normal amount of seepage brought about by expansion of the oil during gear operation.

428—STEERING

TOOL

55x178

Fig.

70—Tool C-3469 Installed

If the oil is coming from the vent while making the test, remove the unit, place it in the holding fixture Tool C-3323, and connect test hoses so that the gear can be operated under pressure.

Remove the upper housing. To test the gear for leaks with the housing removed, install Tool

C-3469, Flange-Housing Head Retaining, as

shown in Figure 70.

With the use of this tool, the gear may be operated under normal pressure and the exact point of leakage can be determined.

From our experience, we strongly recommend the use of this flange Tool C-3469 since it pin-

points the exact nature of the leak and eliminates the possibility of disassembling the gear more than once for repairs.

When the flange tool is used, proceed with

test as follows:

Remove all traces of oil around the housing head, upper piston rod and connector assembly. Start engine and check for source of oil leaks. Move the control valve off center in each direction with adjusting tool to build up pressure in the unit for testing leaks.

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

aged. Use a new seal marked with a silver "M" as a replacement. Check new seal for snug fit

in the valve control spacer. Also, inspect upper rod for being scratched at the sealing surface.

Upper Valve Rod "0" Ring—This leak can also be determined by observing oil coming from the connector assembly. Inspect for dam-

aged "0" ring or not seating properly due to foreign material or roughness in the ring groove. Inspect ring groove location in upper piston rod to determine if "0" ring can possibly come out of the groove when pressure is applied. Install new "0" ring, making sure it is seated in the upper piston rod. Inspect sealing surface on the valve rod for roughness or scratches which would damage the "0" ring.

Upper Piston Rod Seal—Leaks from this seal

will appear around the upper piston rod at the housing head. Inspect for damaged seal or improper seating in the housing head. Examine seal seating surface in the housing head for nicks,

burrs, etc., and the sealing surface travel on upper piston rod for scratches. Make sure new seal is seated in the housing head.

Porous Housing Head—Inspect for oil seeping through pores in housing head. Replace housing head, if leaking.

Mating Surface Between the Upper and Lower Housings—Leakage at the mating surface may be caused by looseness of the three attaching screws which secure the two housings together. Tighten to 30 foot-pounds torque.

Leakage at this point may be caused by continuing to exert turning force on the steering wheel after the front wheels have reached their limit of travel, and by accelerating the engine

excessively. It is possible to build up pump

pressure in excess of 1,000 psi which will

cause the Power Steering Unit to flex at the point where the two housings are bolted together.

Constant flexing at this point will eventually cause seepage at the "0" ring. This is an abnormal operating condition and should not

be practiced.

Leaks out through the vent hole may be com-

ing from one or more of the following seals:

Reaction Seal—If leaking, oil can be detected to be coming from the connector assembly. Inspect seal for signs of shrinkage or being dam-

If leakage is not caused by looseness of attaching bolts or abnormal operation, remove the upper housing and inspect for improperly seated or damaged "0" rings on the housing head, especially the one located on the pressure side. Also,

inspect "0" ring seating surface on hous-

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

STEERING—429

ing head and gear housing for nicks or foreign material. Install new "0" rings. Make sure the upper "O" ring is installed properly on the housing head or damage to housings will result when bolts are tightened.

Lower Housing Cover—Leakage at this point is usually caused by a damaged UO" "O"

ring. If leak continues, it is possible that the cover is porous. Be sure that the cover is installed correctly (cupped portion of cover in) or damage to the lower gear housing will result when the unit is operated. ,'

Gear Shaft Oil Seal—Inspect for damaged seal. Make sure seal and snap ring are seated properly.

Gear Shaft Cover—The following points of leakage may be encountered at the gear shaft cover. All of these may be corrected without removing the unit from the car.

Leaks Between The Gear Shaft Cover and Housing—This condition may be caused by looseness of attaching screws. After tightening these screws if leak continues, inspect for damaged gasket, nicks or burrs on the gear housing and cover. Replace gasket.

Leaks Around Gear Shaft Cover Attaching Screws—Two of these screws have neoprene

seals on them, while the one adjacent to the engine is used in a blind hole and does not require a seal. Be sure the seals are installed on the proper screws. Replace seals as required.

Leaks Around Threads Of Gear Shaft Adjust-

ing Screw—This is usually caused by a damaged

"O"

ring. Remove cover and replace adjusting

screw "0" ring.

28.

NOISE ORIGINATING IN POWER

STEERING UNIT

a. Squealing Noise (High Pitched)

This type of noise may, in some instances, be

caused by slippage of the upper generator drive

belt or the lower fan belt. If so, it will be notice-

able while turning the steering wheel.

Should this noise occur while releasing the steering wheel from a high load to a low load, particularly on right turns, it may be vibration set up by the control valve rod.

ring. Replace

To correct this condition, install a new type

valve rod adjusting disc. The new adjusting

disc is counterbored on the lower surface. If the noise still exists after installing a new disc, it may be caused by air in the hydraulic system.

Operate the steering gear sufficiently to be sure that all of the air is bled out.

It may be necessary, in rare instances, to replace the piston and valve assemblies if the above does not eliminate the noise.

Hissing Noise (No Load)

This may be caused by low oil level in the reservoir. Add oil sufficient to cover the top of the filter element.

Hissing noise may also be an indication that the pressure control valve in the lower piston rod is not operating properly. To check operation of this valve, make the following test:

Connect pressure gauge C-3102 between the pump and pressure hose. Open valve on gauge and idle engine at 475 to 500 r.p.m. With engine idling at operating temperature and no turning effort on the steering wheel, the pressure should read between 70 to 100 psi.

If the pressure is not within these limits, disassemble and inspect the pressure control valve for: proper sequence of parts installed, refer to Service Bulletin No. 621; crushed valve body causing excessive leakage or plunger sticking, and end plug not seated against the valve body, allowing leakage or chatter.

During assembly, be sure that the end plug is seated firmly against the valve body. Check seating of plug by attempting to turn the valve body with a small screwdriver inserted in the oil outlet hole in the lower piston rod.

c. Hissing Noise (Right Turn Only)

This may be caused by oil leakage by the lower

piston rod gear housing oil seal.

Disassemble and inspect for: damaged lower piston rod gear housing oil seal; seal not seating properly in the gear housing; lower piston

rod for scratches which could permit leakage by the seal, and seal seat in the gear housing for nicks,

burrs, etc., which would keep the seal

from seating properly. Install new seal.

430—STEERING CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

d. Hissing Noise Accompanied by Loss of Oil

Through Vent

(Left Turn Only)

This may be caused by oil leakage by the upper piston rod housing head oil seal. Disassemble and inspect for: damaged housing head (upper piston rod) oil seal; seal not seating properly in the housing head; upper piston rod for scratches which could permit leakage by the seal, and seat seal in the housing head for nicks, burrs,

etc., which would prevent the seal from

seating properly. Replace seal.

e. Creaking Noise (On Turns)

This noise may be detected while turning in either direction and can be caused by loose gear

to frame mounting bolts. Tighten bolts and

recheck for noise. If the noise continues, install the latest type of new gear shaft. Shaft can be installed without removal of the unit.

f. Snapping Noise

This noise is usually intermittent and can be produced when the direction of the steering wheel is suddenly reversed. Inspect for loose steering gear to frame bolts. Tighten and recheck for noise. If the noise still exists, check front suspension for springs not being properly seated; camber adjusting bushing set screw being loose; center link and tie rod joints for alignment; brake supports, and spacer washer

on brake shoe anchor biting into support, etc.

In some rare instances, the noise may be caused by one of the following items: lower piston rod bushing dowel pin being too high;

foreign material preventing bushing from seat-

ing, and bearing surface of bushing rough. Install a new bushing, if necessary, making sure it is seated in the gear housing and that the head of the dowel pin is slightly below the bearing surface of the bushing. Inspect for the lower piston rod being loose in the piston. Replace parts,

as necessary, to assure a tight fit.

g. Chuckle Noise This noise is most noticeable when the car is

driven over rough or choppy roads and is usually accompanied by road wander. The condition *nay be caused by one or more of the following.

Check in the following order:

in the

Upper Housing

Steering gear arm nut loose on the gear shaft,

Tighten to 100-120 foot-pounds torque.

Loose front wheel bearings. Adjust bearings.

Gear shaft adjustment too loose.

Excessive king pin end play. There should be .006 to .008 inch clearance between the steering knuckle and the knuckle support. Adjust clearance through the use of shims as needed.

Steering tube coupling screw loose.

Worm bearing pre-load adjustment too loose. Adjust pre-load.

Excessive worm shaft end play in connector assembly. Replace worm and connector as an assembly.

h. Looseness, Shake or Roughness at Upper

End of Steering Column or Steering Wheel

This noise condition may be caused by improper assembly of the upper column jacket bearing. The prongs of the jacket should be staked over the outer bearing race so that the distance from the end of the jacket to the upper or outer surface of the staked prong is .08 inch, or approximately %4 inch. If the bearing is not assembled properly, the column bearing spring is not loaded sufficiently and causes one of the above conditions.

29.

IMPROPER STEERING

a. Wander (Steering Wheel Free Play)

To determine whether or not this condition is caused by the Power Steering unit, proceed as follows: With front wheels in the straight-ahead

position and resting on the floor, start engine

and, with a very light touch, move the steering wheel to check free play. Free play should not exceed % inch. It requires careful checking to determine the exact amount of steering unit free play without any movement of the steering linkage. If it has been accurately established that the free play exceeds % inch, the cause may be one of the following:

Gear shaft adjustment too loose. Steering tube coupling screw loose. Worm bearing pre-load adjustment too loose. Excessive worm shaft end play in the con-

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL STEERING—431

nector assembly. Replace worm and connector as an assembly, if any end play is detected.

If steering wheel free play does not exceed % inch, it is an indication that the condition is caused by one of the following:

Steering gear arm nut loose on gear shaft. Tighten to 120 foot-pounds torque.

Loose front wheel bearings.

Steering linkage — check for worn or loose tie rod ends. Loose steering knuckle arms.

Front wheel alignment.

Binding at king pins and bushings or at other pivot points in front suspension.

Poor Recovery oi Wheels to Straight-Ahead

Position (Both Directions)

This condition may be caused by low tire pressure, binding in front suspension parts, front end alignment, etc. If the condition still exists after checking and eliminating these possible causes, make the following checks to determine exactly what is causing the difficulty:

Disconnect linkage from the steering gear and start engine. With engine idling, use a torque wrench on the steering gear arm nut and check the torque required to turn the gear shaft from one extreme to the other. The readings should be approximately equal and not exceed 40 foot-pounds in either direction. If reading does not exceed 40 foot-pounds, it is an indication that the difficulty is caused by one of the following: binding — tie rods ends, steering knuckles, king pins and bushings, and front wheel alignment.

If the reading does exceed 40 foot-pounds, it is an indication that the difficulty is caused by the Power Steering Unit. To determine the exact source of the difficulty, start engine and recheck the torque required to turn the gear shaft each time one of the following possible causes is checked:

Steering wheel to column jacket interference.

Steering column jacket bearing. Remove steering wheel, jacket, shroud assembly and steering tube. Recheck torque and, if reading is 40 foot-pounds or below, replace the bearing and position, as outlined in preceding item. If

reading is not below 40 foot-pounds, proceed with next item.

Gear shaft adjustment too tight. Adjust gear

shaft. If condition still exists and the torque

reading increases considerably when passing

through the center of gear travel, it is possibly

due to excessive chamfer on the center tooth of

the gear shaft. This condition does not apply to

units incorporating the equal tooth gear shaft

(identified by absence of chamfer). Units built with the equal tooth can be identified by an "O" stenciled on the end of the steering gear shaft or

cross shaft.

Remove gear shaft from unit and check for excessive chamfer on the center tooth of gear shaft. (It is not necessary to remove unit from car.) The width of the chamfer flat on the center

tooth should not exceed %G inch. If it does,

replace shaft.

If torque reading still remains above 40 foot-

pounds, remove the unit and proceed with checking.

Worm bearing pre-load too tight. Place unit in holding fixture, connect test hoses and refill

reservoir. Remove worm shaft oil seal. Start

engine and check torque after readjusting worm

bearing pre-load. If torque is still too high, it

may be caused by worm shaft binding in the

connector or connector guide rails binding in housing. Replace parts as necessary.

c. Poor Recovery of Wheels to Straight-Ahead

Position (One Direction Only)

Make checks, as outlined in previous item, to

eliminate the possibility of the difficulty being caused by the front suspension or steering linkage parts. After these possibilities have been eliminated and the condition still exists, center the control valve until equal torque readings are obtained in each direction.

d. Unequal Steering Effort Unequal steering effort may be mistaken for

"lack of assist in one direction." To establish if such a condition exists, check steering wheel turning effort as follows: With engine idling and front wheels on floor, turn steering wheel at a normal rate of r.p.m. from one extreme to the other, and note the amount of turning force required. After this check, turn the wheel in the

432—STEERING

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

same manner except at a higher rate of r.p.m. Do not exceed approximately 60 steering wheel r.p.m. when making this check. If the turning force did increase considerably while turning the wheel at high rate of speed, then the condition is "Lack of Assist in One Direction." If the amount of turning force did not increase, then it is "Unequal Steering Effort." Proceed as follows to determine cause:

e. Control Valve Adjustment Disconnect linkage and center control valve

so that an equal amount of torque is required to turn the gear shaft from one extreme to the other. (If proper adjustment cannot be maintained, refer to "Inability to Maintain Control Valve Adjustment.")

f. Upper Piston Rod Movement in Piston

Check fit of snap ring which retains upper piston rod in the piston by attempting to rotate the snap ring. If the snap ring can be rotated,

it will allow the upper piston rod to move axially with respect to the piston and displace the

control valve relationship to the valve body.

This can cause self steering in either direction, however, it is usually noted to be to the left.

Replace piston, making sure the snap ring seats tightly.

g. Connector Nut

Any condition which will cause the valve rod

adjusting disc to become loose in the connector

will result in self steering. Check for connector

nut not tightening sufficiently to lock the valve

rod adjusting disc and reaction assembly in the

connector. Remove the worm connector and

reaction assemblies from the upper piston rod.

Reassemble by placing the adjusting disc,

adjusting disc retainer and valve control spacer

in their respective positions in the worm connector. Install worm connector nut and tighten securely. Insert a small punch or screwdriver

through the bottom of the connector and attempt

to rotate the adjusting disc. If it cannot be rotated, it is properly locked. If it can be rotated, check threads on connector nut, connector, etc., and replace parts as necessary.

h. Control Valve Loose on Rod

The control valve rod is connected to the control valve by peening. Check for any movement

between the the control valve and rod assembly. Do not

attempt to tighten.

i. Upper Piston Rod Nut Loose

Tighten securely.

Upper Piston Rod

Inspect rod for being scored at reaction seal retainer bearing surfaces and replace if necessary.

k. Reaction Assembly

If the above items have failed to correct unequal steering effort, replace all reaction parts. Make sure the valve control spacer is matched to the upper piston rod. The length of the valve control spacer must be identical to the distance between

the seat of the lower valve control spacer retain-

er and the upper piston rod nut.

30.

INABILITY TO MAINTAIN CONTROL

VALVE ADIUSTMENT

This condition may be caused by the following conditions:

Valve control rod loose in disc. The locking effort of the adjusting disc can be increased by slightly compressing the locking portion in a vise. Turning effort of rod in disc should be 10 to 20 inch-pounds. Do not exceed 20 inch-pounds or the valve rod and (or) adjusting tool may be

damaged.

Upper piston rod nut loose. Tighten securely. Control valve loose on rod. Replace assembly

if any looseness is found.

Reaction spacer too long or too short, or burrs or out-of-squareness of any of the reaction area parts which are held inside the connector by the connector nut (including the nut

not being tightened) can cause this condition.

31.

LACK OF ASSISTANCE

a. One Direction Lack of assistance in one direction is usually

found to be caused by one of the following conditions :

Damaged neoprene piston ring.

Housing head oil seal (upper piston rod).

two.

If movement does exist, replace

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL STEERING—433

Damaged or improperly seated housing head oil seal will cause lack of assistance when turning

to the left, and will also be accompanied by-

loss of oil out of the vent in the upper housing. Inspect sealing surface on upper piston rod for being scratched. Replace, if necessary. Install new housing head oil seal and make sure that it is seated in the housing head.

Valve rod lower "0" ring. Inspect for damaged lower valve rod "0" ring in upper piston rod.

Piston rod "0" rings. Inspect for damaged

"O"

rings on both upper and lower piston rods which may be causing leakage between piston and rods. Install new "0" rings and make sure they fit in the grooves.

Both Directions

Tire pressure too low. Upper and lower fan and generator belts slipping. Low fluid level in reservoir. Fill of pump pressure. Make pressure checks.

that fluid covers top of filter. Lack

FRONT WHEEL ALIGNMENT

(All Models)

32.

DESCRIPTION

Correct front wheel alignment produces easy, positive steering with a minimum of scuffing action between tire and road.

All factors of front wheel alignment are interrelated but each angle has a specific purpose.

Four different angles are used in positioning front wheels for proper steering under varying conditions of weight and speed.

Should one of the four angles get out of posi-

tion, the harmonious relationship of all of them

is destroyed. Each angle depends upon the proper setting of the others if front wheels are to lead properly.

In making corrections to front wheel alignment, or installing new front wheel suspension parts,

all four angles in both front wheels should

be checked in the following order.

33.

KING PIN INCLINATION

King pin inclination is the amount the top of the king pin inclines away from the vertical toward the center of the car, as viewed from the front of the car (Fig. 71). Inclined king pins are closer together at the top than at the bottom.

When the king pin inclination is incorrect, it is an indication of a bent frame or bent control arms. Correction should be made by

434—STEERING

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

straightening the frame as required, or by replacing the damaged parts.

34.

CAMBER

Camber is the amount the wheel inclines away from the vertical at the top, as viewed from the front of the car (Fig. 71).

With positive camber, the wheels are farther apart at the top than at the bottom. Negative or reverse camber is the opposite—the wheels are closer together at the top than at the bottom.

Unequal camber in the front wheels may cause the car to lead to the right or left.

35.

CASTER

Caster is the amount the top of the king pin is inclined toward the front or rear of the car, as viewed from the side of the car (Fig. 72).

Positive caster is the tilt of the top of the king pin toward the rear of the car. Negative or reverse caster is the tilt of the top of the king pin toward the front of the car.

Positive caster imparts a trailing action to the front wheels, while negative or reverse caster causes a leading action. The correct amount of caster helps to keep the front wheels

in the straight-ahead position. When turning a

curve caster and king pin inclination act as a

lever, assisting the driver to return the front wheels to the straight-ahead position.

36.

TOE-IN AND TOE-OUT

Toe-in is the amount the front wheels are closer

-TIRE CENTER LINE —CAMBER ANGLE

VERTICAL LINE

KING

ANGLE-

KING

CENTER LINE

-NEGATIVE CASTER

KING

Fig.

72—Caster Angle

together when viewed from

slipping road, resulting

left, they actually the front than

lates wheelbase

at the

Excessive

scuffing between

When

the

The design

the

amount

of the car and the

front than they

the top of the car.

insufficient toe-in causes lateral

abnormal tire wear.

wheels

are

toe out (are

at the

of the

steering knuckle

the steering knuckles.

FRONT

-(-POSITIVE CASTER

are at the

the

tire

and the

turned

to the

farther apart

rear).

arm

toe-out, depending

distance between

To be in

correct relative

49x704

rear,

right

regu-

on the

alignment when negotiating a turn, both front and rear wheels must travel common center.

The

inside front wheel travels in a circle having a smaller traveling the wheels will than

ahead position.

toe-out

wheels

by the

at the

turns depends

are

turned.

outside front wheel. Therefore,

farther apart

back when turned

The

amount

circles having

arc

than

the

at the

off the

the

straight-

front wheels

on how far the

circle front

front

Fig.

71—Camber Angle

and

King

Inclination

A bent steering knuckle sive tire wear, even though is correct

for the

straight ahead position front wheels, because when are turned out, due to

to the

the

right

bent steering knuckle arm, would

arm

will cause exces-

the

amount

the

left,

the

cause excessive scuffing between the road.

toe-in

of the

front wheels

error

in toe-

the

tire

and

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

STEERING—435

The instructions

front wheel alignment

C-3409 gauge

are many other types

use that accomplish ever,

the

method

differ from the instructions

Regardless

used, checking

this manual

are

based

and

DD-435 turntables. There

checking equipment

the

same purpose.

using

make

and

adjusting should

the

equipment

this manual.

type

for

checking

use

Tool

How-

may

equipment

done

proper sequence as outlined herein.

CHECKING FRONT WHEEL

ALIGNMENT

Normally, when checking front wheel alignment,

the car load should carried, such man

for be loaded with fore checking front wheel alignment.

The front springs be placed

front bumper

end

the car up and down several times.

should

removed).

when

a car is

empty

If a

carrying samples, etc.,

its

normal amount

IMPORTANT

and

shock absorbers should

"normal" position at its

center and moving the front

(all

luggage

constant load

used

by a

sales-

the car

should

weight be-

grasping

TURNTABLE

LOCK

Fig.

73—Gauge C-3409

approximately

on Right Wheel

two

and

Turntable DD-435

inches inside

the

the turntable pad.

(3) Remove Wheel Cover Assembly. (4) Assemble gauge

as shown

right front wheel

Figure 73, with quadrant parallel with wheel and pull out turntable lock pins.

>54x247

center

hub

The

car

must remain tion while front wheel alignment checked.

I;f

one side due to s6meone getting into readings will operation

37.

CHECKING KING PIN INCLINATION

(1) Inflate

repeated.

all

tires

incorrect, unless

this "normal" posi-

of car is

recommended pressures.

lower than other,

out

car, gauge

the

foregoing

being

IMPORTANT

Set foot brakes

that front wheels will

not

turn while king pin inclination is being checked.

(2) Place front wheels

as shown in Figure

locked turntables,

73,

with front wheels

straight-ahead position.

NOTE

The center

of the

tire contact area should

(5) Grasp

(6) With gauge

the

front bumper

move,

bounce, and down three car

rest

the

"normal," unloaded position.

on the

wheels

left until right wheel has turned

more than 20 degrees,

at the

front

four times

right wheel, turn front

table scale. Allow wheel

center

and

end of car up

allow

the

indicated on turn-

back

off to

exactly 20 degrees.

(7) Adjust secondary screw which controls

short pointer (Fig. 74), until bubble tered between level.

Do not

the two

lines

on the

disturb gauge setting

cen-

spirit

release brakes.

IMPORTANT

To relieve bind

steering mechanism, reading,

it is

beyond 20 degrees, and then back

and

friction,

and for

advisable

looseness

accurate gauge

turn wheels slightly

exactly 20

degrees.

436—STEERING CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

(2) With gauge assembled on wheel, as shown

in Figure 75, adjust secondary screw on quadrant assembly so that pointer, which is just above the spirit level, is on scratch mark.

(3) Adjust primary screw so that spirit level

bubble is centered.

(4) Take camber reading in degrees on scale.

Use 60 degree section of scale on quadrant assembly of gauge for checking camber. If wheel is not true, turn it 180 degrees and take another reading. Average the two readings to obtain camber angle.

54x248

Fig.

74—Checking King Pin Inclination—Right Wheel

Tool C-3409 Gauge

(8) With foot brakes still applied, turn front

wheels to the right until right wheel has been turned to an angle of more than 20 degrees past straight-ahead position.

(9) Adjust primary screw (Fig. 74) which

controls hair line, until bubble centers in spirit level. The reading on the 40 degree scale on gauge will be the king pin angle for the right wheel.

(10)

check king pin angle on left wheel, place wheels in straight-ahead position and attach gauge to left wheel as explained in Step (4). Turn wheels to right, repeating Steps (6), (7), (8) and (9), as outlined above.

NOTE

When the king pin inclination is found to be

other than shown on the special chart, it is an indication of bent frame, steering knuckle support or control arm. Correction should be

made by straightening the frame, as required,

or by replacing the damaged parts.

(5) Readings from zero toward wheel indicate

positive camber. Readings from zero away from wheel indicate negative or (reverse) camber.

(6) Check camber of opposite wheel in the same

manner.

39.

CHECKING CASTER

(1) Be sure king pin inclination and camber

angle are correct. Refer to Paragraphs 21 through

23,

King Pin Inclination and Cam-

ber.

(2) With gauge on right wheel, as shown in

Figure 76, turn front wheels to left until right wheel has turned beyond 20 degrees, as indicated on turntable scale. Allow

wheels to back off to exactly 20 degrees for

ISECONDARY SCREW

38.

CHECKING CAMBER

(1) Be sure king pin inclination (6% to 8

degrees on Model C-70 and 5 to

6V2

degrees on all other models) is correct. Refer to Paragraph 36, King Pin Inclination. Place front wheels in straight-ahead position

with weight of car on wheels and front end of car level.

Fig.

75—Checking Camber (Tool C-3409)

54x249

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

54x250

Fig.

76—Checking Caster (Tool 3409)

accuracy and to relieve possible bind in steering mechanism.

(3) Adjust secondary screw until bubble is

centered between two lines on spirit level. Do not disturb this gauge setting.

(4) Turn front wheels to right until right

wheel has turned to an angle of more than 20 degrees past straight-ahead position. Allow wheels to back off to exactly 20 degrees.

STEERING—437

scale on gauge will be caster angle. Readings from zero toward wheel indicate positive casters. Readings from zero away from wheel indicate negative (reverse) caster.

40.

MEASURING TOE

Front wheel toe should be checked with a suit-

able gauge, such as Tool C-695.

(1) Raise front end of car until front wheels

clear the turntables.

(2) Spin front wheels and scribe broad chalk

lines on center tread all around tire.

(3) Use a pointed tool to scribe a fine hairline

within the broad scribed chalk line.

(4) With front wheels straight-ahead, lower

car until full weight rests on the turn-

tables.

This allows free movement of wheels

to settle into the normal position they would

assume when car is in motion.

(5) After car has come to rest on turntables,

use Tool C-695 to measure at hub height the distance between points (A) and between points (B) of front and rear of front wheels (Fig. 77). Distance between points

(A) should not exceed that of points (B) by more than \\ 0 inch. Equal distances between points (A) and points (B) are

pref-

erable.

(5) Adjust primary screw until bubble centers

in spirit level. The reading on 40 degree

scale will be the caster. Reading from zero away from wheel indicates negative (reverse) caster. Readings from zero toward the wheel indicate positive caster.

(6) To check amount of caster in left wheel,

place wheels in straight-ahead position and attach gauge to left wheel. Then, turn wheel to right until left wheel has turned beyond 20 degrees, as indicated on turntable scale. Back off to exactly 20 degrees.

(7) Adj ust secondary screw until bubble is cen-

tered between two lines on spirit level. Do not disturb this gauge setting.

(8) Turn front wheels to left until left wheel

has turned more than 20 degrees past

straight-ahead position. Back off to exactly

20 degrees.

(9) Adjust primary screw until bubble centers

in spirit level. The reading on 40 degree

41.

MEASURING TOE-OUT ON TURNS

Before checking toe-out, wheel alignment on

turns (Fig. 79), all other factors of front wheel

alignment should be checked in their proper sequence, namely: king pin inclination, caster, camber and toe-in. Check amount of toe-out on turns as follows:

HUB

MARK TIRES HERE

Fig.

77—Front Wheel Toe-in

438—STEERING

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

Fig.

79—Checking Toe-Out on Turns (Tool DD-435)

control arm. Keep the steering knuckle support as nearly centered between the ends of the upper control arm as possible. Adjust to specifications in Data and Specifications and tighten the lock screw.

Fig.

78—Camber Angle Adjustment

1—Lock

screw 2—Upper control arm pin (eccentric bushing) 3—Steering knuckle support 4-Tool C-611 (Tool C-619 for 8-Pass. Sedan)

(1) Turn front wheels to left until turntable

under right wheel registers 20 degrees.

(2) Take reading of turntable under left wheel.

With right wheel set at 20 degrees angle,

the angle of left wheel should be 211/2 de-

grees plus or minus 1 degree.

(3) Repeat foregoing operations, but turn the

wheels to right until turntable under left wheel registers 20 degrees. Under this condition the angle of right wheel should

211/4

degrees plus or minus 1 degree.

ADJUSTING FRONT WHEEL

ALIGNMENT

42.

ADJUSTING CASTER AND CAMBER

Correct caster angle is obtained by proper ad-

justments of the upper control arm eccentric

bushing. To adjust the camber, loosen the lock screw, as shown in Figure 78. Turn the bushing

to obtain the correct setting, within % revolu-

tion from the point where correct caster setting is obtained. Do not turn the eccentric bushing until it binds against either side of the upper

NOTE

If correct wheel camber cannot be adjusted within specified limits, the use of spacer shims at the top of spring will correct this condition. Each spacer shim represents an increase of approximately 1/2 degree with the maximum of 2 spacer shims to be

43.

ADJUSTING TOE

used.

With the steering wheel in its center position, lengthen or shorten tie rods an equal amount until toe of 0 to %6 inch (0 inch preferred) is obtained.

CAUTION

The steering wheel hub, the steering gear arm, the steering tube and the steering gear roller shaft are machined with master serrations to place the wheels straight-ahead when the steer^ ing wheel is in its center position. No attempt should be made to change the relative position of these parts by altering the master serrations. Improper positioning of the steering wheel should be corrected only by adjusting the tie rods.

44.

TOE-OUT ON TURNS

Assuming that camber, caster, king pin inclina-

tion and toe-in are correct and that the steering arms are not bent, toe-out on turns will be within the specified tolerance. There is no adjustment to be made (Fig. 79).

CHRYSLER SERVICE MANUAL

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

(Manual Steering)

45.

EXCESSIVE PLAY

THE STEERING WHEEL

Possible Causes:

Steering gear adjusted too loosely or badly

worn.

Steering linkage loose or worn.

c. King pins and bushings loose and worn.

d. Front wheel bearings improperly adj usted.

e. Pitman arm loose on steering gear shaft.

f. Steering gear housing attaching bolts

loose.

g. Steering arms loose at anchor bolts.

LOOSENESS

STEERING—439

Insufficient lubricant in the steering gear

housing.

c. Steering gear adjusted too tightly, steering gear and jacket assembly misaligned, or binding in the linkage.

d. Front wheels out of line.

e. Steering column out of line. Remedies:

a. Check and correct tire pressure, as required. Refer to Wheels and Tires Section XIII for correct tire pressure.

Check level of lubricant, and if found to

be low, add correct amount. Refer to Lubrication

Section XV.

Remedies:

a. If excessive play exists in the steering wheel without moving the Pitman arm, refer to Steering Gear Adjustments, Paragraph 8. Correct as necessary.

Check the steering linkage ends for wear.

If any appreciable amount is evident, replace

with new end assemblies.

c. Refer to Paragraph 14 for procedure checking and replacing king pins and bushings.

d. Refer to Paragraph 12 for procedure checking and adjusting wheel bearings.

e. Check for looseness between the Pitman arm and steering gear shaft, while turning the steering wheel back and forth. If looseness is

evident, inspect the serrations and correct as

necessary.

f. Rotate steering wheel and check the steering gear housing. If movement is noted, align the assembly and tighten attaching bolts securely.

g. Check steering gear arms for looseness

and tighten to the specified torque.

c. Disconnect the Pitman arm at the steer-

ing gear shaft. Turn the steering wheel to both

extremes. If binding is evident near the ends

of travel, the cause can usually be traced to

either a misaligned steering gear assembly,

improperly adjusted gears, or worn bearings. If

binding is evident in center position only, the

gear mesh adjustment is too tight.

The steering gear assembly can be correctly

aligned as follows: loosen the housing to frame bracket, the frame bracket to frame bolts and the instrument panel bolts and realign assembly to frame and instrument panel. There must be no misalignment at either the frame or in-

strument panel. If the gears are improperly adjusted, refer to Paragraph 8.

If binding was evident before the Pitman arm was disconnected, but disappeared after being disconnected, check the steering linkage for dry or binding tie rod ends. Lubricate or replace tie rod ends as necessary. Also check for .005 to .010 inch clearance around king pin, between knuckle and support.

For other possible conditions that may be encountered pertaining to steering, refer to Front Wheel Alignment in this Section.

46.

HARD STEERING

Possible Causes:

a. Low or uneven tire pressure.

d. Refer to Front Wheel Alignment. Correct condition as required.

e. Refer to Paragraph 6 in this section. Cor-

rect condition as required.

Section

TRANSMISSION

SERVICE BULLETIN REFERENCE

NUMBER DATE SUBJECT

CHANGES

Chrysler C-67, C-68, C-70, C-69 Service Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual