Chrysler 2004 Concorde, 2004 LH 300M, 2004 Dodge Intrepid, 300M Service Manual

8A
8B
8C

8E

8F
8G
8H

8I
8J
8L

8M

8N
8O

8P

8Q
8R

8W

11
13
14
19
21
22
23
24
25

GROUP TAB LOCATOR

Introduction
Lubrication & Maintenance

0

Suspension

2

Driveline

3

Brakes

5

Cooling

7

Audio/Video
Chime/Buzzer
Clock
Electronic Control Modules
Engine Systems
Heated Systems
Horn
Ignition Control
Instrument Cluster
Lamps
Message Systems
Power Systems
Restraints
Speed Control
Vehicle Theft Security
Wipers/Washers
Wiring
Engine

9

Exhaust System
Frame & Bumpers
Fuel System
Steering
Transaxle
Tires/Wheels
Body
Heating & Air Conditioning
Emissions Control
Component and System Index

Service Manual Comment Forms (Rear of Manual)

LH INTRODUCTION 1

INTRODUCTION

TABLE OF CONTENTS

page page

BODY CODE PLATES

DESCRIPTION ..........................1

FASTENER IDENTIFICATION

DESCRIPTION ..........................2

FASTENER USAGE

DESCRIPTION

DESCRIPTION - FASTENER USAGE ........5

DESCRIPTION - THREADED HOLE REPAIR . . 5

INTERNATIONAL SYMBOLS

DESCRIPTION ..........................5

METRIC SYSTEM

DESCRIPTION ..........................6

BODY CODE PLATES

DESCRIPTION

LOCATION AND DECODING

The Body Code Plate (Fig. 1) is located in the
engine compartment on the battery tray front side
(Fig. 2). There are seven lines of information on the
body code plate. Lines 4, 5, 6, and 7 are not used to
define service information. Information reads from
left to right, starting with line 3 in the center of the
plate to line 1 at the bottom of the plate.

TORQUE REFERENCES

DESCRIPTION ..........................8

VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER

DESCRIPTION ..........................9

VEHICLE SAFETY CERTIFICATION LABEL

DESCRIPTION .........................10

E-MARK LABEL

DESCRIPTION .........................10

VECI LABEL

DESCRIPTION .........................10

MANUFACTURER PLATE

DESCRIPTION .........................11

BODY CODE PLATE LINE 3

DIGITS 1, 2, AND 3

Paint procedure

DIGIT 4

Open Space

DIGITS 5 THROUGH 7

Primary Paint (Refer to 23 - BODY/PAINT - SPEC­IFICATIONS).

DIGIT 8 AND 9

Open Space

DIGITS 10 THROUGH 12

Secondary Paint

DIGIT 13 AND 14

Open Space

DIGITS 15 THROUGH 18

Interior Trim Code

DIGIT 19

Open Space

Fig. 1 BODY CODE PLATE

1 - PRIMARY PAINT
2 - SECONDARY PAINT
3 - VINYL ROOF
4 - VEHICLE ORDER NUMBER
5 - CAR LINE SHELL
6 - PAINT PROCEDURE
7 - ENGINE
8 - TRIM
9 - TRANSMISSION
10 - MARKET
11 - VIN

DIGITS 20, 21, AND 22

Engine Code

• EER = 2.7 L, Six Cylinder, 24 Valve, DOHC,

Gasoline, Aluminum Block (MPI)

• EGG = 3.5 L, Six Cylinder, 24 Valve, SOHC,

High Output, Gasoline, Aluminum Block (MPI)

• EGK = 3.5 L, Six Cylinder, 24 Valve, SOHC,

High Output, Gasoline, Aluminum Block (MPI)

2 INTRODUCTION LH

BODY CODE PLATES (Continued)

DIGITS 22 AND 23

Body Type

• 41 = Four Door Sedan

BODY CODE PLATE LINE 1

DIGITS 1, 2, AND 3

Transaxle Codes

• DGX = 42LE 4-Speed Electronic Automatic

Transaxle

DIGIT 4

Open Space

DIGIT 5

Market Code

Fig. 2 BODY CODE PLATE LOCATION

1 - BODY COPY PLATE
2 - BATTERY TRAY

• C = Canada

• B = International

• M = Mexico

• U = United States

• EGJ = 3.5 L, Six Cylinder, 24 Valve, SOHC,

High Output, Gasoline, Aluminum Block

• EGC = 3.5 L, Six Cylinder, 24 Valve, SOHC,

Magnum, Gasoline, Aluminum Block

DIGIT 23

Open Space

BODY CODE PLATE – LINE 2

DIGITS 1 THROUGH 12

Vehicle Order Number

DIGITS 13, THROUGH 15

Vinyl Roof Code

DIGITS 16 AND 17

Open space

DIGITS 18 AND 19

Vehicle Shell Line

• LH

DIGITS 20

Carline

• C = Chrysler

• D = Dodge

• Y = Chrysler

DIGIT 21

Price Class

• E = Economy

• H = High Line

• L = Low Line

• M = Mid Line

• P = Premium

• S = Special/Sport

• X = Performance Image

DIGIT 6

Open Space

DIGITS 7 THROUGH 23

Vehicle Identification Number

• (Refer to VEHICLE DATA/VEHICLE INFOR­MATION/VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER ­DESCRIPTION) for proper breakdown of VIN code.

IF TWO BODY CODE PLATES ARE REQUIRED

The last code shown on either plate will be fol­lowed by END. When two plates are required, the
last code space on the first plate will indicate (CTD)

When a second plate is required, the first four
spaces of each line will not be used due to overlap of
the plates.

FASTENER IDENTIFICATION

DESCRIPTION

The SAE bolt strength grades range from grade 2
to grade 8. The higher the grade number, the greater
the bolt strength. Identification is determined by the
line marks on the top of each bolt head. The actual
bolt strength grade corresponds to the number of line
marks plus 2. The most commonly used metric bolt
strength classes are 9.8 and 10.9. The metric
strength class identification number is imprinted on
the head of the bolt. The higher the class number,
the greater the bolt strength. Some metric nuts are
imprinted with a single-digit strength class on the
nut face. Refer to the Fastener Identification and
Fastener Strength Charts (Fig. 3) and (Fig. 4).

LH INTRODUCTION 3

FASTENER IDENTIFICATION (Continued)

Fig. 3 FASTENER IDENTIFICATION

4 INTRODUCTION LH

FASTENER IDENTIFICATION (Continued)

Fig. 4 FASTENER STRENGTH

LH INTRODUCTION 5

FASTENER USAGE

DESCRIPTION

DESCRIPTION - FASTENER USAGE

WARNING: USE OF AN INCORRECT FASTENER
MAY RESULT IN COMPONENT DAMAGE OR PER­SONAL INJURY.

Fasteners and torque specifications references in
this Service Manual are identified in metric and SAE
format.

During any maintenance or repair procedures, it is
important to salvage all fasteners (nuts, bolts, etc.)
for reassembly. If the fastener is not salvageable, a
fastener of equivalent specification must be used.

DESCRIPTION - THREADED HOLE REPAIR

Most stripped threaded holes can be repaired using
a Helicoilt. Follow the vehicle or Helicoilt recommen­dations for application and repair procedures.

INTERNATIONAL SYMBOLS

DESCRIPTION

The graphic symbols illustrated in the following
International Control and Display Symbols Chart
(Fig. 5) are used to identify various instrument con­trols. The symbols correspond to the controls and dis­plays that are located on the instrument panel.

Fig. 5 INTERNATIONAL CONTROL AND DISPLAY SYMBOLS

1 High Beam 13 Rear Window Washer
2 Fog Lamps 14 Fuel
3 Headlamp, Parking Lamps, Panel Lamps 15 Engine Coolant Temperature
4 Turn Warning 16 Battery Charging Condition
5 Hazard Warning 17 Engine Oil
6 Windshield Washer 18 Seat Belt
7 Windshield Wiper 19 Brake Failure
8 Windshield Wiper and Washer 20 Parking Brake

9 Windscreen Demisting and Defrosting 21 Front Hood
10 Ventilating Fan 22 Rear hood (Decklid)
11 Rear Window Defogger 23 Horn
12 Rear Window Wiper 24 Lighter

6 INTRODUCTION LH

METRIC SYSTEM

DESCRIPTION

The metric system is based on quantities of one,

ten, one hundred, one thousand and one million.

CONVERSION FORMULAS AND EQUIVALENT VALUES

MULTIPLY BY TO GET MULTIPLY BY TO GET

in-lbs x

0.11298

ft-lbs x

1.3558

Inches Hg (60° F) x 3.377 = Kilopascals (kPa) kPa x

psi x 6.895 = Kilopascals (kPa) kPa x 0.145 = psi
Inches x 25.4 = Millimeters (mm) mm x

Feet x

0.3048

Yards x

0.9144

mph x

1.6093

Feet/Sec x

0.3048

mph x

0.4470

Kilometers/Hr. (Km/h) x

0.27778

= Newton Meters
(N·m)

= Newton Meters
(N·m)

= Meters (M) M x 3.281 = Feet

= Meters M x

= Kilometers/Hr.
(Km/h)

= Meters/Sec (M/S) M/S x 3.281 = Feet/Sec

= Meters/Sec (M/S) M/S x 2.237 = mph

= Meters/Sec (M/S) M/S x 3.600 Kilometers/Hr. (Km/h)

The following chart will assist in converting metric
units to equivalent English and SAE units, or vise
versa.

N·m x 8.851 = in-lbs

N·m x

0.7376

0.2961

0.03937

1.0936

Km/h x

0.6214

= ft-lbs

= Inches Hg

= Inches

= Yards

= mph

1 inch = 25 Millimeters 1 Cubic Inch = 16 Cubic Centimeters
1 Foot = 0.3 Meter 1 Cubic Foot = 0.03 Cubic Meter
1 Yard = 0.9 Meter 1 Cubic Yard = 0.8 Cubic Meter
1 Mile = 1.6 Kilometers

Refer to the Metric Conversion Chart to convert
torque values listed in metric Newton- meters (N·m).
Also, use the chart to convert between millimeters
(mm) and inches (in.) (Fig. 6).

COMMON METRIC EQUIVALENTS

LH INTRODUCTION 7

METRIC SYSTEM (Continued)

Fig. 6 METRIC CONVERSION CHART

8 INTRODUCTION LH

TORQUE REFERENCES

DESCRIPTION

Individual Torque Charts appear within many or the
Groups. Refer to the Standard Torque Specifications

Chart for torque references not listed in the individual
torque charts (Fig. 7).

Fig. 7 TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS

LH INTRODUCTION 9

VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION
NUMBER

DESCRIPTION

The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) is located
on the upper left corner of the upper plenum, near
the left windshield pillar (Fig. 8). The VIN consists of
17 characters in a combination of letters and num­bers that provide specific information about the vehi­cle. Refer to VIN Code Breakdown table for decoding
information.

Fig. 8 VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER (VIN PLATE)

1 - INSTRUMENT PANEL
2 - V.I.N.
3 - WINDSHIELD OPENING

VIN CODE BREAKDOWN CHART

POSITION INTERPRETATION CODE = DESCRIPTION

1 Country of Origin 2 = Manufactured By DaimlerChrysler Canada Inc.
2 Make B = Dodge

C = Chrysler
3 Vehicle Type 3 = Passenger Car
4 Passenger Safety A = Restraint System - Active Driver and Side Airbags

H = Restraint System - Active Driver and Passenger Airbags
5 Car Line D = Concord (U.S.,Canada, Mexico, Bux)

D = Intrepid (U.S., Mexico)

E = 300M (U.S.,Canada, Mexico, Bux)

H = Intrepid (Canada)
6 Series 3 = Medium

Transmission Table For Bux

W/DGL, DGX
7 Body Style 6 = 4 Door Sedan
8 Engine G = 3.5L V6 Cyl 24 Valve SOHC (MPI)

9 Check Digit See explanation in this section.

10 Model Year 4 = 2004
11 Assembly Plant H = Bramalea Assembly

12 through 17 Sequence Number Six digit number assigned by assembly plant

4 = High Line
5 = Premium
6 = Sport
7 = Special

B = 4 Speed Automatic

K = 3.5L V6 Cyl 24 valve (MPI)
M = 3.5L V6 Cyl 24 valve SOHC
R = 2.7L V6 Cyl 24 Valve DOHC (MPI)
V = 3.5L V6 Cyl 24 Valve SOHC

10 INTRODUCTION LH

VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER (Continued)

VIN CHECK DIGIT

DESCRIPTION

To protect the consumer from theft and possible
fraud the manufacturer is required to include a
Check Digit at the ninth position of the Vehicle Iden­tification Number. The check digit is used by the
manufacturer and government agencies to verify the
authenticity of the vehicle and official documenta­tion. The formula to use the check digit is not
released to the general public.

VEHICLE SAFETY
CERTIFICATION LABEL

DESCRIPTION

A vehicle safety certification label is attached to
the rear shutface of the driver’s door (Fig. 9). This
label indicates date of manufacture (month and
year), Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), Gross
Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) front, Gross Axle Weight
Rating (GAWR) rear and the Vehicle Identification
Number (VIN). The Month, Day and Hour of manu­facture is also included.

All communications or inquiries regarding the
vehicle should include the Month-Day-Hour and
Vehicle Identification Number.

E-MARK LABEL

DESCRIPTION

An E-mark Label (Fig. 10) is located on the rear
shut face of the driver’s door. The label contains the
following information:

• Date of Manufacture

• Month-Day-Hour (MDH)

• Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)

• Country Codes

• Regulation Number

• Regulation Amendment Number

• Approval Number

Fig. 9 VEHICLE SAFETY CERTIFICATION LABEL -

TYPICAL

Fig. 10 E-MARK LABEL

1 - COUNTRY CODE
2 - REGULATION NUMBER
3 - APPROVAL NUMBER
4 - AMENDMENT NUMBER

VECI LABEL

DESCRIPTION

All models have a Vehicle Emission Control Infor­mation (VECI) Label. Chrysler permanently attaches
the label in the engine compartment. It cannot be
removed without defacing information and destroying
the label.

The label contains the vehicle’s emission specifica­tions and vacuum hose routings. All hoses must be
connected and routed according to the label.

LH INTRODUCTION 11

MANUFACTURER PLATE

DESCRIPTION

The Manufacturer Plate (Fig. 11) is located in the
engine compartment on the passenger side rear cor­ner of the hood. The plate contains five lines of infor­mation:

1. Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)

2. Gross Vehicle Mass (GVM)

3. Gross Train Mass (GTM)

4. Gross Front Axle Rating (GFAR)

5. Gross Rear Axle Rating (GRAR)

Fig. 11 MANUFACTURER PLATE

LH LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE 0 - 1

LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE

TABLE OF CONTENTS

page page

INTERNATIONAL SYMBOLS

DESCRIPTION ..........................1

FLUID TYPES

DESCRIPTION

DESCRIPTION - ENGINE OIL AND

LUBRICANTS .........................1

DESCRIPTION - ENGINE COOLANT ........3

DESCRIPTION - AUTOMATIC

TRANSMISSION FLUID ..................3

DESCRIPTION - DIFFERENTIAL

LUBRICANT...........................4

DESCRIPTION - FUEL REQUIREMENTS .....4

FLUID CAPACITIES

SPECIFICATIONS - FLUID CAPACITIES .......5

INTERNATIONAL SYMBOLS

DESCRIPTION

DaimlerChrysler Corporation uses international
symbols to identify engine compartment lubricant
and fluid inspection and fill locations (Fig. 1).

Fig. 1 INTERNATIONAL SYMBOLS

FLUID FILL/CHECK LOCATIONS

DESCRIPTION ..........................6

LUBRICATION POINTS

DESCRIPTION ..........................6

MAINTENANCE SCHEDULES

DESCRIPTION

DESCRIPTION ........................6

DESCRIPTION - EXPORT ...............10

HOISTING

STANDARD PROCEDURE - HOISTING .......14

JUMP STARTING

STANDARD PROCEDURE - JUMP STARTING . 14

TOWING

STANDARD PROCEDURE - TOWING ........15

FLUID TYPES

DESCRIPTION

DESCRIPTION - ENGINE OIL AND LUBRICANTS

WARNING: NEW OR USED ENGINE OIL CAN BE
IRRITATING TO THE SKIN. AVOID PROLONGED OR
REPEATED SKIN CONTACT WITH ENGINE OIL.
CONTAMINANTS IN USED ENGINE OIL, CAUSED BY
INTERNAL COMBUSTION, CAN BE HAZARDOUS TO
YOUR HEALTH. THOROUGHLY WASH EXPOSED
SKIN WITH SOAP AND WATER. DO NOT WASH
SKIN WITH GASOLINE, DIESEL FUEL, THINNER, OR
SOLVENTS, HEALTH PROBLEMS CAN RESULT. DO
NOT POLLUTE, DISPOSE OF USED ENGINE OIL
PROPERLY. CONTACT YOUR DEALER OR GOVERN­MENT AGENCY FOR LOCATION OF COLLECTION
CENTER IN YOUR AREA.

When service is required, DaimlerChrysler Corpo­ration recommends that only Mopart brand parts,
lubricants and chemicals be used. Mopart provides
the best engineered products for servicing
DaimlerChrysler Corporation vehicles.

Only lubricants bearing designations defined by
the following organization should be used.

• Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE)

• American Petroleum Institute (API)

• National Lubricating Grease Institute (NLGI)

0 - 2 LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE LH

FLUID TYPES (Continued)

API SERVICE GRADE CERTIFIED

Use an engine oil that is API Certified (GF-3).
Mopart provides engine oils, meeting Material Stan­dard MS-6395, that meet or exceed this requirement.

SAE VISCOSITY

An SAE viscosity grade is used to specify the vis­cosity of engine oil. Use only engine oils with multi­ple viscosities such as 5W-30 or 10W-30. These are
specified with a dual SAE viscosity grade which indi­cates the cold-to-hot temperature viscosity range.
Select an engine oil that is best suited to your par­ticular temperature range and variation (Fig. 2).

Fig. 2 TEMPERATURE/ENGINE OIL VISCOSITY

ENERGY CONSERVING OIL

An Energy Conserving type oil is recommended for
gasoline engines. The designation of ENERGY CON­SERVING is located on the label of an engine oil con­tainer.

CONTAINER IDENTIFICATION

Standard engine oil identification notations have
been adopted to aid in the proper selection of engine
oil. The identifying notations are located on the front
label of engine oil plastic bottles and the top of
engine oil cans (Fig. 3).

This symbol means that the oil has been certified
by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Diamler­Chrysler only recommend API Certified (GF-3)
engine oils that meet the requirements of Material
Standard MS-6395. Use Mopart or an equivalent oil
meeting the specification MS-6395.

ENGINE OIL ADDITIVES/SUPPLEMENTS

The manufacturer does not recommend the addi­tion of any engine oil additives/supplements to the
specified engine oil. Engine oil additives/supplements
should not be used to enhance engine oil perfor­mance. Engine oil additives/supplements should not
be used to extend engine oil change intervals. No
additive is known to be safe for engine durability and
can degrade emission components. Additives can con­tain undesirable materials that harm the long term
durability of engines by:

• Doubling the level of Phosphorus in the engine
oil. The ILSAC (International Lubricant Standard
Approval Committee) GF-2 and GF-3 standards
require that engine oil contain no more than 0.10%
Phosphorus to protect the vehicles emissions perfor­mance. Addition of engine oil additives/supplements
can poison, from the added sulfur and phosphorus,
catalysts and hinder efforts to guarantee emissions
performance to 80,000 miles.

• Altering the viscosity characteristics of the
engine oil so that it no longer meets the require­ments of the specified viscosity grade.

• Creating potential for an undesirable additive
compatibility interaction in the engine crankcase.
Generally it is not desirable to mix additive packages
from different suppliers in the crankcase; there have
been reports of low temperature engine failures
caused by additive package incompatibility with such
mixtures.

GEAR LUBRICANTS

SAE ratings also apply to multigrade gear lubri­cants. In addition, API classification defines the
lubricants usage. Such as API GL-5 and SAE 75W-

90.

Fig. 3 API SYMBOL

SYNTHETIC ENGINE OILS

There are a number of engine oils being promoted
as either synthetic or semi-synthetic. If you chose to
use such a product, use only those oils that meet the
American Petroleum Institute (API) and SAE viscos­ity standard. Follow the service schedule that
describes your driving type.

LUBRICANTS AND GREASES

Lubricating grease is rated for quality and usage
by the NLGI. All approved products have the NLGI
symbol (Fig. 4) on the label. At the bottom NLGI
symbol is the usage and quality identification letters.
Wheel bearing lubricant is identified by the letter
“G”. Chassis lubricant is identified by the latter “L”.
The letter following the usage letter indicates the

LH LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE 0 - 3

FLUID TYPES (Continued)

quality of the lubricant. The following symbols indi­cate the highest quality.

Fig. 4 NLGI SYMBOL

1 - WHEEL BEARINGS
2 - CHASSIS LUBRICATION
3 - CHASSIS AND WHEEL BEARINGS

SPECIALIZED LUBRICANTS AND OILS

Some maintenance or repair procedures may
require the use of specialized lubricants or oils. Con­sult the appropriate sections in this manual for the
correct application of these lubricants.

DESCRIPTION - ENGINE COOLANT

WARNING: ANTIFREEZE IS AN ETHYLENE GLYCOL
BASE COOLANT AND IS HARMFUL IF SWAL­LOWED OR INHALED. IF SWALLOWED, DRINK
TWO GLASSES OF WATER AND INDUCE VOMIT­ING. IF INHALED, MOVE TO FRESH AIR AREA.
SEEK MEDICAL ATTENTION IMMEDIATELY. DO NOT
STORE IN OPEN OR UNMARKED CONTAINERS.
WASH SKIN AND CLOTHING THOROUGHLY AFTER
COMING IN CONTACT WITH ETHYLENE GLYCOL.
KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN. DISPOSE OF
GLYCOL BASE COOLANT PROPERLY, CONTACT
YOUR DEALER OR GOVERNMENT AGENCY FOR
LOCATION OF COLLECTION CENTER IN YOUR
AREA. DO NOT OPEN A COOLING SYSTEM WHEN
THE ENGINE IS AT OPERATING TEMPERATURE OR
HOT UNDER PRESSURE, PERSONAL INJURY CAN
RESULT. AVOID RADIATOR COOLING FAN WHEN
ENGINE COMPARTMENT RELATED SERVICE IS
PERFORMED, PERSONAL INJURY CAN RESULT.

The use of aluminum cylinder blocks, cylinder
heads, and water pumps requires special corrosion
protection. Mopart Antifreeze/Coolant, 5
Year/100,000 Mile Formula (MS-9769), or the equiva­lent ethylene glycol base coolant with hybrid organic
corrosion inhibitors (called HOAT, for Hybrid Organic
Additive Technology) is recommended. This coolant
offers the best engine cooling without corrosion when
mixed with 50% Ethylene Glycol and 50% distilled
water to obtain a freeze point of -37°C (-35°F). If it
loses color or becomes contaminated, drain, flush,
and replace with fresh properly mixed coolant solu­tion.

The green coolant MUST NOT BE MIXED with
the orange or magenta coolants. When replacing cool­ant the complete system flush must be performed
before using the replacement coolant.

CAUTION: MoparT Antifreeze/Coolant, 5
Year/100,000 Mile Formula (MS-9769) may not be
mixed with any other type of antifreeze. Doing so
will reduce the corrosion protection and may result
in premature water pump seal failure. If non-HOAT
coolant is introduced into the cooling system in an
emergency, it should be replaced with the specified
coolant as soon as possible.

DESCRIPTION - AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
FLUID

NOTE: Refer to the maintenance schedules for the
recommended maintenance (fluid/filter change)
intervals for this transaxle.

NOTE: For fluid level checking procedures, (Refer
to 21 - TRANSMISSION/TRANSAXLE/AUTOMATIC ­42LE/FLUID - STANDARD PROCEDURE).

NOTE: The 42LE transaxle has separate transmis­sion and differential oil sumps, each requiring dif­ferent fluids.

CAUTION: Use of Propylene Glycol based coolants
is not recommended, as they provide less freeze
protection and less boiling protection.

The cooling system is designed around the coolant.
The coolant must accept heat from engine metal, in
the cylinder head area near the exhaust valves and
engine block. Then coolant carries the heat to the
radiator where the tube/fin radiator can transfer the
heat to the air.

TRANSMISSION FLUID

Mopart ATF+4 is required in this transaxle. Sub­stitute fluids can induce torque converter clutch
shudder.

Mopart ATF+4 when new is red in color. The ATF
is dyed red so it can be identified from other fluids
used in the vehicle such as engine oil or antifreeze.
The red color is not permanent and is not an indica­tor of fluid condition. As the vehicle is driven, the
ATF will begin to look darker in color and may even­tually become brown. This is normal. ATF+4 also

0 - 4 LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE LH

FLUID TYPES (Continued)

has a unique odor that may change with age. Conse­quently, odor and color cannot be used to indi-

cate the fluid condition or the need for a fluid
change.

FLUID ADDITIVES

DaimlerChrysler strongly recommends against the
addition of any fluids to the transmission, other than
those automatic transmission fluids listed above.
Exceptions to this policy are the use of special dyes
to aid in detecting fluid leaks.

Various “special” additives and supplements exist
that claim to improve shift feel and/or quality. These
additives and others also claim to improve converter
clutch operation and inhibit overheating, oxidation,
varnish, and sludge. These claims have not been sup­ported to the satisfaction of DaimlerChrysler and
these additives must not be used. The use of trans­mission “sealers” should also be avoided, since they
may adversely affect the integrity of transmission
seals.

DESCRIPTION - DIFFERENTIAL LUBRICANT

NOTE: Refer to the Owner’s Manual for the recom­mended differential lubricant change intervals for
this transaxle.

NOTE: Refer to 42LE TRANSAXLE SERVICE PRO­CEDURES for fluid level checking procedures.

may adversely affect the integrity of transmission
seals.

DESCRIPTION - FUEL REQUIREMENTS

Your engine is designed to meet all emissions reg­ulations and provide excellent fuel economy and per­formance when using high quality unleaded gasoline
having an octane rating of 87. The uses of midgrade,
octane rating of 89, gasoline is recommended for the

3.5L H.O. engine. The use of premium gasoline is not
recommended. The use of premium gasoline will pro­vide no benefit over high quality regular gasoline,
and in some circumstances may result in poorer per­formance.

Light spark knock at low engine speeds is not
harmful to your engine. However, continued heavy
spark knock at high speeds can cause damage and
immediate service is required. Engine damage result­ing from operation with a heavy spark knock may
not be covered by the new vehicle warranty.

Poor quality gasoline can cause problems such as
hard starting, stalling and hesitations. If you experi­ence these symptoms, try another brand of gasoline
before considering service for the vehicle.

Over 40 auto manufacturers world-wide have
issued and endorsed consistent gasoline specifications
(the Worldwide Fuel Charter, WWFC) to define fuel
properties necessary to deliver enhanced emissions,
performance and durability for your vehicle. We rec­ommend the use of gasolines that meet the WWFC
specifications if they are available.

NOTE: The 42LE transaxle has separate transmis­sion and differential oil sumps, each requiring dif­ferent fluids.

42LE DIFFERENTIAL LUBRICANT

The differential sump should be filled with Mopart
80W-90 hypoid gear lubricant. Synthetic gear lubri­cants should be avoided.

FLUID ADDITIVES

DaimlerChrysler strongly recommends against the
addition of any fluids to the transmission, other than
those lubricants listed above. Exceptions to this pol­icy are the use of special dyes to aid in detecting
fluid leaks.

Various “special” additives and supplements exist
that claim to improve shift feel and/or quality. These
additives and others also claim to improve converter
clutch operation and inhibit overheating, oxidation,
varnish, and sludge. These claims have not been sup­ported to the satisfaction of DaimlerChrysler and
these additives must not be used. The use of trans­mission “sealers” should also be avoided, since they

REFORMULATED GASOLINE

Many areas of the country require the use of
cleaner burning gasoline referred to as “reformulat­ed” gasoline. Reformulated gasoline contain oxygen­ates, and are specifically blended to reduce vehicle
emissions and improve air quality.

We strongly support the use of reformulated gaso­line. Properly blended reformulated gasoline will pro­vide excellent performance and durability for the
engine and fuel system components.

GASOLINE/OXYGENATE BLENDS

Some fuel suppliers blend unleaded gasoline with
oxygenates such as 10% ethanol, MTBE, and ETBE.
Oxygenates are required in some areas of the country
during the winter months to reduce carbon monoxide
emissions. Fuels blended with these oxygenates may
be used in your vehicle.

CAUTION: DO NOT use gasoline containing METH­ANOL. Gasoline containing methanol may damage
critical fuel system components.

LH LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE 0 - 5

FLUID TYPES (Continued)

MMT IN GASOLINE

MMT is a manganese-containing metallic additive
that is blended into some gasoline to increase octane.
Gasoline blended with MMT provide no performance
advantage beyond gasoline of the same octane num­ber without MMT. Gasoline blended with MMT
reduce spark plug life and reduce emission system
performance in some vehicles. We recommend that
gasoline free of MMT be used in your vehicle. The
MMT content of gasoline may not be indicated on the
gasoline pump; therefore, you should ask your gaso­line retailer whether or not his/her gasoline contains
MMT.

It is even more important to look for gasoline with­out MMT in Canada because MMT can be used at
levels higher than allowed in the United States.
MMT is prohibited in Federal and California refor­mulated gasoline.

SULFUR IN GASOLINE

If you live in the northeast United States, your
vehicle may have been designed to meet California
low emission standards with Cleaner-Burning Cali­fornia reformulated gasoline with low sulfur. If such
fuels are not available in states adopting California
emission standards, your vehicles will operate satis­factorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but
emission control system performance may be
adversely affected. Gasoline sold outside of California
is permitted to have higher sulfur levels which may
affect the performance of the vehicle’s catalytic con­verter. This may cause the Malfunction Indicator
Lamp (MIL), Check Engine or Service Engine Soon
light to illuminate. We recommend that you try a dif­ferent brand of unleaded gasoline having lower sulfur
to determine if the problem is fuel related prior to
returning your vehicle to an authorized dealer for
service.

CAUTION: If the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL),
Check Engine or Service Engine Soon light is flash­ing, immediate service is required; see on-board
diagnostics system section.

MATERIALS ADDED TO FUEL

All gasoline sold in the United States and Canada
are required to contain effective detergent additives.
Use of additional detergents or other additives is not
needed under normal conditions.

FUEL SYSTEM CAUTIONS

• The use of leaded gas is prohibited by Federal
law. Using leaded gasoline can impair engine perfor­mance, damage the emission control system, and
could result in loss of warranty coverage.

• An out-of-tune engine, or certain fuel or ignition
malfunctions, can cause the catalytic converter to
overheat. If you notice a pungent burning odor or
some light smoke, your engine may be out of tune or
malfunctioning and may require immediate service.
Contact your dealer for service assistance.

• When pulling a heavy load or driving a fully
loaded vehicle when the humidity is low and the tem­perature is high, use a premium unleaded fuel to
help prevent spark knock. If spark knock persists,
lighten the load, or engine piston damage may result.

• The use of fuel additives which are now being
sold as octane enhancers is not recommended. Most
of these products contain high concentrations of
methanol. Fuel system damage or vehicle perfor­mance problems resulting from the use of such fuels
or additives is not the responsibility of
DaimlerChrysler Corporation and may not be covered
under the new vehicle warranty.

NOTE: Intentional tampering with emissions control
systems can result in civil penalties being assessed
against you.

FLUID CAPACITIES

SPECIFICATIONS - FLUID CAPACITIES

DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION

Fuel Tank 64 L (17 gal.)

Engine Oil* 4.7 L (5.0 qts.)
Cooling System - 2.7L** 10.0 L (10.5 qts.)
Cooling System - 3.5L** 10.5 L (11.0 qts.)

Automatic Transaxle ­Estimated Service Fill

Automatic Transaxle ­Overhaul Fill Capacity
with Torque Converter

Empty

Differential 0.74 L (0.78 qts.)
*(includes filter)
**(includes heater and coolant recovery bottle filled to

MAX level)

4.3 L (4.5 qts.)

8.8 L (9.3 qts.)

CAUTION: Follow these guidelines to maintain your
vehicle’s performance:

0 - 6 LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE LH

FLUID FILL/CHECK
LOCATIONS

DESCRIPTION

The fluid check/fill point locations are located in

each applicable service manual section.

LUBRICATION POINTS

DESCRIPTION

Lubrication point locations are located in each

applicable Sections.

MAINTENANCE SCHEDULES

DESCRIPTION

DESCRIPTION

There are two maintenance schedules that show

the required service for your vehicle.

First is Schedule “B”. It is for vehicles that are
operated under the conditions that are listed below
and at the beginning of the schedule.

•

Day or night temperatures are below 32° F (0° C).

• Stop and go driving.

• Extensive engine idling.

• Driving in dusty conditions.

• Short trips of less than 10 miles (16 km).

•

More than 50% of your driving is at sustained high

speeds during hot weather, above 90° F (32° C).L

• Trailer towing.L

• Taxi, police, or delivery service (commercial ser-

vice).L

• Off-road or desert operation.

NOTE: If ANY of these apply to you then change
your engine oil every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3
months, whichever comes first and follow schedule
“B” of the (Maintenance Schedules( section of this
manual.

NOTE: Under no circumstances should oil change
intervals exceed 6000 miles (10 000 km) or 6
months whichever comes first.

CAUTION: Failure to perform the required mainte­nance items may result in damage to the vehicle.

At Each Stop for Fuel

• Check the engine oil level about 5 minutes after
a fully warmed engine is shut off. Checking the oil
level while the vehicle is on level ground will
improve the accuracy of the oil level reading. Add oil
only when the level is at or below the ADD or MIN
mark.

• Check the windshield washer solvent and add if
required.

Once a Month

• Check tire pressure and look for unusual wear
or damage.

• Inspect the battery and clean and tighten the
terminals as required.

• Check the fluid levels of coolant bottle, brake
master cylinder and transmission, add as needed.

• Check all lights and all other electrical items for
correct operation.

• Check rubber seals on each side of the radiator
for proper fit.

At Each Oil Change

• Change the engine oil filter.

• Inspect the exhaust system.

• Inspect the brake hoses.

• Inspect the CV joints and front and rear suspen-

sion components.

• Check the automatic transmission fluid level.

• Check the coolant level, hoses, and clamps.

• Rotate the tires at each oil change interval

shown on Schedule “A” 6,000 miles (10 000 km) or
every other interval shown on Schedule “B” 6,000
miles (10 000 km).

NOTE: Most vehicles are operated under the condi­tions listed for Schedule (B(.

Second is Schedule “A”. It is for vehicles that are
not operated under any of the conditions listed under
Schedule 9B9.

Use the schedule that best describes your driving
conditions. Where time and mileage are listed, follow
the interval that occurs first.

LH LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE 0 - 7

MAINTENANCE SCHEDULES (Continued)

SCHEDULE “B”

Follow schedule “B” if you usually operate your
vehicle under one or more of the following conditions.
Change the automatic transmission fluid and filter
every 60,000 miles (96 000 km) if the vehicle is usu­ally operated under one or more of the conditions
marked with an L.

•

Day or night temperatures are below 32° F (0° C).

• Stop and go driving.

• Extensive engine idling.

• Driving in dusty conditions.

• Short trips of less than 10 miles (16.2 km).

More than 50% of your driving is at sustained high

•

speeds during hot weather, above 90° F (32° C).L

Miles 3,000 6,000 9,000 12,000 15,000 18,000
(Kilometers) (5 000) (10 000) (14 000) (19 000) (24 000) (29 000)

Change engine oil and engine oil filter. XXXXXX
Inspect the air cleaner filter and

replace if required.*
Replace the air cleaner filter.*X
Inspect the front and rear brake linings

and rotors.
Adjust the drive belt tension. X

XXXX X

• Trailer towing.L

• Taxi, police or delivery service (commercial ser-

vices).L

• Off-road or desert operation.

• If equipped for and operating with E-85

(ethanol) fuel.

NOTE: If ANY of these apply to you then change
your engine oil every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3
months, whichever comes first and follow schedule
“B” of the (Maintenance Schedules( section of this
manual.

XX

Miles 21,000 24,000 27,000 30,000 33,000 36,000
(Kilometers) (34 000) (38 000) (43 000) (48 000) (53 000) (58 000)

Change engine oil and engine oil filter. XXXXXX
Inspect the air cleaner filter and

replace if required.*
Replace the air cleaner filter. X
Inspect the front and rear brake linings

and rotors.
Adjust the drive belt tension. X
Check and replace, if necessary, the

PCV valve.*

Miles 39,000 42,000 45,000 48,000 51,000 54,000
(Kilometers) (62 000) (67 000) (72 000) (77 000) (82 000) (86 000)

Change engine oil and engine oil filter. XXXXX X
Inspect the air cleaner filter and

replace if required.*
Replace the air cleaner filter.*X
Adjust the drive belt tension. X
Inspect the front and rear brake linings

and rotors.
Replace the differential fluid. X

XXX XX

XX

X

XX XX X

XX

0 - 8 LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE LH

MAINTENANCE SCHEDULES (Continued)

Miles 57,000 60,000 63,000 66,000 69,000 72,000
(Kilometers) (91 000) (96 000) (101 000) (106 000) (110 000) (115 000)

Change engine oil and engine oil filter. XXXXXX
Inspect the air cleaner filter and

replace if required.*
Replace the air cleaner filter. X
Inspect the front and rear brake linings

and rotors.
Replace the drive belts. X
Check and replace, if necessary, the

PCV valve.*‡
Change the automatic transaxle fluid

and filter.

Miles 75,000 78,000 81,000 84,000 87,000 90,000
(Kilometers) (120 000) (125 000) (130 000) (134 000) (139 000) (144 000)

Change engine oil and engine oil filter. XXXXXX
Inspect the air cleaner filter

replace if required.*
Replace the air cleaner filter.
Replace the air cleaner filter. X
Adjust the drive belt tension. X X
Inspect the front and rear brake linings

and rotors.
Check and replace, if necessary, the

PCV valve.

*‡

and

*

X XXXX

XX

X

X

XXXX

X

XX

X

Miles 93,000 96,000 99,000 100,000 102,000 105,000
(Kilometers) (149 000) (154 000) (158 000) (160 000) (163 000) (168 000)

Change engine oil and engine oil filter. X X X X X
Inspect the air cleaner filter and

replace if required.*
Replace the air cleaner filter. X

Inspect the front and rear brake linings
and rotors.

Flush and replace the engine coolant. X
Replace the engine timing belt

(Federal Emissions).
Replace the engine timing belt

(California Emissions).
Replace the spark plugs. X

Adjust the drive belt tension. X
Change the differential fluid. X

* This maintenance is recommended by the manu­facture to the owner but is not required to maintain
the emissions warranty.

‡ This maintenance is not required if previously
replaced.

XXX X

X

X

X

Inspection and service should also be performed
anytime a malfunction is observed or suspected.
Retain all receipts.

LH LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE 0 - 9

MAINTENANCE SCHEDULES (Continued)

SCHEDULE “A”

Miles 6,000 12,000 18,000 24,000 30,000 36,000
(Kilometers) (10 000) (19 000) (29 000) (38 000) (48 000) (58 000)
[Months] [6] [12] [18] [24] [30] [36]

Change engine oil and engine oil filter. XXXXX X
Inspect the air cleaner filter and replace if

required.*
Replace the air cleaner filter.*X
Adjust the drive belt tension. X
Inspect the front and rear brake linings and

rotors.
Inspect and replace PCV valve if required. X

Miles 42,000 48,000 54,000 60,000 66,000 72,000
(Kilometers) (67 000) (77 000) (86 000) (96 000) (106 000) (115 000)
[Months] [42] [48] [54] [60] [66] [72]

Change engine oil and engine oil filter. XXXXXX
Inspect the air cleaner filter and

replace if required.*
Replace the air cleaner filter.*X
Replace the drive belts. X
Inspect the front and rear brake linings

and rotors.
Flush and replace engine coolant at 60

months or 100,000 miles.
Check and replace, if necessary, the

PCV valve. *

XXXX X

XX

XXX XX

XX

X

X

Miles 78,000 84,000 90,000 96,000 102,000
(Kilometers) (125 000) (134 000) (144 000) (154 000) (163 000)
[Months] [78] [84] [90] [96] [102]

Change engine oil and engine oil filter. XXXXX
Inspect the air cleaner filter and replace if

required.*
Replace the air cleaner filter.*X
Adjust the drive belt tension. X
Inspect the front and rear brake linings and rotors. X
Replace the spark plugs. X

XX XX

0 - 10 LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE LH

MAINTENANCE SCHEDULES (Continued)

Miles 78,000 84,000 90,000 96,000 102,000
(Kilometers) (125 000) (134 000) (144 000) (154 000) (163 000)
[Months] [78] [84] [90] [96] [102]

Check and replace, if necessary, the PCV
valve.*‡

Replace the engine timing belt (Federal
Emissions equipped vehicles only).

Replace the engine timing belt (California
Emissions equipped vehicles only).

Flush and replace the engine coolant at 60
months or 100,000 miles.

X

X

X

X

* This maintenance is recommended by the manu­facture to the owner but is not required to maintain
the emissions warranty.

‡ This maintenance is not required if previously
replaced.

Inspection and service should also be performed
anytime a malfunction is observed or suspected.
Retain all receipts.

WARNING: You can be badly injured working on or
around a motor vehicle. Do only that service work
for which you have the knowledge and the right
equipment. If you have any doubt about your ability
to perform a service job, take your vehicle to a
competent mechanic.

DESCRIPTION - EXPORT

There are two maintenance schedules that show
the required service for your vehicle.

First is Schedule “A”. It is for vehicles that are not
operated under any of the conditions listed under
Schedule “B”.

Second is Schedule (B(. It is for vehicles that are
operated under the conditions that are listed below
and at the beginning of the schedule.

Day or night temperatures are below 32° F (0° C).

•

• Stop and go driving.

• Extensive engine idling.

• Driving in dusty conditions.

• Short trips of less than 10 miles (16 km).

•

More than 50% of your driving is at sustained high

speeds during hot weather, above 90° F (32° C).L

• Trailer towing.L

• Taxi, police, or delivery service (commercial ser-

vice).L

• Off-road or desert operation.

• If equipped for and operating with E-85

(ethanol) fuel.

months, whichever comes first and follow schedule
“B” of the (Maintenance Schedules( section of this
manual.

NOTE: Most vehicles are operated under the condi­tions listed for Schedule (B(.

Use the schedule that best describes your driving
conditions. Where time and mileage are listed, follow
the interval that occurs first.

NOTE: Under no circumstances should oil change
intervals exceed 6000 miles (10 000 km) or 6
months whichever comes first.

CAUTION: Failure to perform the required mainte­nance items may result in damage to the vehicle.

At Each Stop for Fuel

•

Check the engine oil level about 5 minutes after a
fully warmed engine is shut off. Checking the oil level
while the vehicle is on level ground will improve the
accuracy of the oil level reading. Add oil only when the
level is at or below the ADD or MIN mark.

• Check the windshield washer solvent and add if

required.

Once a Month

• Check tire pressure and look for unusual wear

or damage.

• Inspect the battery and clean and tighten the

terminals as required.

• Check the fluid levels of coolant bottle, brake

master cylinder and transmission, add as needed.

• Check all lights and all other electrical items for

correct operation.

• Check rubber seals on each side of the radiator

for proper fit.

NOTE: If ANY of these apply to you then change
your engine oil every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3

LH LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE 0 - 11

MAINTENANCE SCHEDULES (Continued)

At Each Oil Change

• Change the engine oil filter.

• Inspect the exhaust system.

• Inspect the brake hoses.

• Inspect the CV joints and front and rear suspen-

sion components.

• Check the automatic transmission fluid level.

• Check the coolant level, hoses, and clamps.

• Rotate the tires at each oil change interval

shown on Schedule “A” 6,000 miles (10 000 km) or
every other interval shown on Schedule “B” 6,000
miles (10 000 km).

SCHEDULE “A”

Kilometers 12 000 24 000 36 000 48 000 60 000 72 000
(Miles) (7,500) (15,000) (22,500 (30,000) (37,500) (45,000)
[Months] [6] [12] [18] [24] [30] [36]

Change engine oil and engine oil filter. XXXXXX
Inspect the air cleaner filter and replace if

required.*
Replace the air cleaner filter.*X
Adjust the drive belt tension. X
Inspect the front and rear brake linings and rotors. X X

Kilometers 84 000 96 000 100 000 120 000 132000 140000
(Miles) (52,500) (60,000) (67,500) (75,000) (82,500) (90,000)
[Months] [42] [48] [54] [60] [66] [72]

Change engine oil and engine oil filter. XXXXXX
Inspect the air cleaner filter

required.*
Replace the air cleaner filter.
Replace the drive belts. X
Adjust drive belt tension. X
Inspect the front and rear brake linings and rotors. X X
Flush and replace engine coolant at 60 months or

160,000 km.
Check and replace, if necessary, the PCV valve.

and replace if

*

*

XXX XX

X XXX

XX

X

XX

Kilometers 156 000 168 000
(Miles) (97,500) (105,000)
[Months] [78] [84]

Change engine oil and engine oil filter. X X
Inspect the air cleaner filter and replace if required.* X X
Replace the spark plugs. X
Flush and replace the engine coolant at 60 months or 160,000 km. X

* This maintenance is recommended by the manu­facture to the owner but is not required to maintain
the emissions warranty.

‡ This maintenance is not required if previously
replaced.

Inspection and service should also be performed
anytime a malfunction is observed or suspected.
Retain all receipts.

0 - 12 LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE LH

MAINTENANCE SCHEDULES (Continued)

SCHEDULE “B”

Follow schedule “B” if you usually operate your
vehicle under one or more of the following conditions.
Change the automatic transmission fluid and filter
every 60,000 miles (96 000 km) if the vehicle is usu­ally operated under one or more of the conditions
marked with an L.

•

Day or night temperatures are below 32° F (0° C).

• Stop and go driving.

• Extensive engine idling.

• Driving in dusty conditions.

• Short trips of less than 10 miles (16.2 km).

Kilometers 5 000 10 000 14 000 19 000 24 000 29 000
(Miles) (3,000 ) (6,000 ) (9,000) (12,000) (15,000) (18,000)

Change engine oil and engine oil filter. XXXXXX
Inspect the air cleaner filter and

replace if required.*
Replace the air cleaner filter.*X
Inspect the front and rear brake linings

and rotors.
Adjust the drive belt tension. X

XXXX X

• More than 50% of your driving is at sustained
high speeds during hot weather, above 90° F (32°
C).L

• Trailer towing.L

• Taxi, police or delivery service (commercial ser-

vices).L

• Off-road or desert operation.

• If equipped for and operating with E-85

(ethanol) fuel.

If ANY of these apply to you, change your engine
oil every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3 months, which­ever comes first, and follow the maintenance recom­mendations in “Maintenance Schedule B.”

XX

Kilometers 34 000 38 000 43 000 48 000 53 000 58 000
(Miles) (21,000) (24,000) (27,000) (30,000) (33,000) (36,000)

Change engine oil and engine oil filter. XXXXXX
Inspect the air cleaner filter and

replace if required.*
Replace the air cleaner filter. X
Inspect the front and rear brake linings

and rotors.
Adjust the drive belt tension. X
Check and replace, if necessary, the

PCV valve.*

Kilometers 62 000 67 000 72 000 77 000 82 000 86 000
(Miles) (39,000) (42,000) (45,000) (48,000) (51,000) (54,000)

Change engine oil and engine oil filter. XXXXXX
Inspect the air cleaner filter and

replace if required.*
Replace the air cleaner filter.*X
Adjust the drive belt tension. X
Inspect the front and rear brake linings

and rotors.
Replace the differential fluid. X
Change automatic transmission fluid

and filter.

XXX XX

XX

X

XX XXX

XX

X

LH LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE 0 - 13

MAINTENANCE SCHEDULES (Continued)

Kilometers 91 000 96 000 101000 106000 110000 115000
(Miles) (57,000) (60,000) (63,000) (66,000) (69,000) (72,000)

Change engine oil and engine oil filter. XXXXXX
Inspect the air cleaner filter

required.*
Replace the air cleaner filter. X
Inspect the front and rear brake linings and rotors. X X
Replace the drive belts. X
Check and replace, if necessary, the PCV valve.
Change the automatic transaxle fluid and filter. X

Kilometers 120000 125000 130000 134000 139000 144000
(Miles) (75,000) (78,000) (81,000) (84,000) (87,000) (90,000)

Change engine oil and engine oil filter. XXXXXX
Inspect the air cleaner filter
Replace the air cleaner filter.
Replace the air cleaner filter.
Adjust the drive belt tension. X
Inspect the front and rear brake linings and rotors. X X
Check and replace, if necessary, the PCV valve.

and replace if

*‡

and replace if required.*

*

*‡

X XXXX

X

XXXX

X

X

X

Kilometers 149000 154000 158000 160000 163000 168000
(Miles) (93,000) (96,000) (99,000) (100,000) (102,000) (105,000)

Change engine oil and engine oil filter. X X X X X
Inspect the air cleaner filter

and replace if

XXX X

required.*

Replace the air cleaner filter.
Inspect the front and rear brake linings and rotors. X
Change the automatic transaxle fluid and filter. X
Flush and replace the engine coolant. X
Replace the engine timing belt (Federal

X

X

Emissions).

Replace the engine timing belt

(California

X

Emissions).

Replace the spark plugs.
Adjust the drive belt tension. X
Change the differential fluid. X

* This maintenance is recommended by the manu­facture to the owner but is not required to maintain
the emissions warranty.

‡ This maintenance is not required if previously
replaced.

Inspection and service should also be performed

WARNING: You can be badly injured working on or
around a motor vehicle. Do only that service work
for which you have the knowledge and the right
equipment. If you have any doubt about your ability
to perform a service job, take your vehicle to a
competent mechanic.

X

anytime a malfunction is observed or suspected.
Retain all receipts.

0 - 14 LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE LH

HOISTING

STANDARD PROCEDURE - HOISTING

Refer to Owner’s Manual provided with vehicle for
proper emergency jacking procedures.

WARNING: THE HOISTING AND JACK LIFTING
POINTS PROVIDED ARE FOR A COMPLETE VEHI­CLE. WHEN THE ENGINE OR REAR SUSPENSION
IS REMOVED FROM A VEHICLE, THE CENTER OF
GRAVITY IS ALTERED MAKING SOME HOISTING
CONDITIONS UNSTABLE. PROPERLY SUPPORT OR
SECURE VEHICLE TO HOISTING DEVICE WHEN
THESE CONDITIONS EXIST.

CAUTION: Do not position hoisting device on sus­pension components, damage to vehicle can result.

For proper hoisting and jacking points, refer to
(Fig. 5).

JUMP STARTING

STANDARD PROCEDURE - JUMP STARTING

WARNING:
REVIEW ALL SAFETY PRECAUTIONS AND WARN­INGS.
DO NOT JUMP START A FROZEN BATTERY, PER­SONAL INJURY CAN RESULT.
DO NOT JUMP START WHEN MAINTENANCE FREE
BATTERY INDICATOR DOT IS YELLOW OR BRIGHT
COLOR.
A BATTERY GENERATES HYDROGEN GAS WHICH
IS FLAMMABLE AND EXPLOSIVE. KEEP OPEN
FLAME OR SPARKS AWAY FROM THE BATTERY.
DO NOT ALLOW JUMPER CABLE CLAMPS TO
TOUCH EACH OTHER WHEN CONNECTED TO A
BOOSTER SOURCE. ,
DO NOT ALLOW BATTERY VOLTAGE TO EXCEED
16 VOLTS.
TAKE CARE TO AVOID THE RADIATOR COOLING
FAN WHENEVER THE HOOD IS RAISED. THE FAN
CAN START AT ANYTIME THE IGNITION SWITCH IS
ON. YOU CAN BE HURT BY THE FAN.
BATTERY FLUID IS A CORROSIVE ACID SOLUTION:
DO NOT ALLOW BATTERY FLUID TO CONTACT
EYES, SKIN, OR CLOTHING. IF ACID SPLASHES IN
EYES OR ON SKIN, FLUSH THE CONTAMINATED
AREA IMMEDIATELY WITH LARGE QUANTITIES OF
WATER.

Fig. 5 HOISTING AND JACKING POINTS

CAUTION:
Do not attempt to push or tow the vehicle to start it.
The vehicle cannot be started this way. Pushing
with another vehicle may damage the transaxle or
the rear of the vehicle.
If the vehicle has a discharged battery, booster
cables may be used to obtain a start from another
vehicle. This type of start can be dangerous if done
improperly, so follow the procedure carefully.

NOTE:
The battery is stored in a compartment in front of
the tire in the right front fender and is accessible
through the engine compartment.

TO JUMP START A DISABLED VEHICLE:

If the indicator is dark or shows a green dot, pro-

ceed as follows:

(1) Wear eye protection and remove metallic jew­elry worn on hands or wrists to avoid injury by acci­dental arcing of battery current.

LH LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE 0 - 15

JUMP STARTING (Continued)

(2) When using another vehicle as a booster
source, park the booster vehicle within cable reach
without allow vehicles to touch.

(3) Turn off all accessories, set the parking brake,
place the automatic transmission in PARK, and turn
the ignition OFF in both vehicles.

(4) Connect one end of the positive jumper cable to
the positive jump start attachment of the booster
battery. Connect the other end of the cable to the
positive jump start attachment of the discharged bat­tery (Fig. 6).

(5) Connect one end of the negative jumper cable
to the negative jump start attachment of the booster
battery. Connect the other end of the cable to the
negative jump start attachment of the discharged
battery (Fig. 7). Ensure that the jump cable clamps
have good connections.

(6) Start the engine in the vehicle which has the
booster battery, let the engine idle a few minutes,
then start the engine in the vehicle with the dis­charged battery.

Fig. 7 NEGATIVE JUMPER START ATTACHMENT

1 - NEGATIVE JUMP START ATTACHMENT
2 - ATTACHMENT

TOWING

CAUTION: Do not crank starter motor on disabled
vehicle for more than 15 seconds, starter will over­heat and could fail.

(7) When removing the jumper cables:

• Disconnect jumper cable negative clamp from

the disabled vehicle.

• Disconnect the jumper cable negative clamp

from the booster battery start attachment.

• Disconnect jumper cable positive clamp from dis-

able battery start attachment.

• Disconnect jumper cable positive clamp from

booster battery start attachment.

STANDARD PROCEDURE - TOWING

WARNING:

• Do NOT tow vehicle with front wheels on the

ground. The transaxle can be damaged.

• Secure loose and protruding parts from a dis-

abled vehicle.

• Always use a safety chain system that is inde-

pendent of the lifting and towing equipment.

• Do not allow any of the towing equipment to

contact the fuel tank of the vehicle being towed.

• Do not go under the vehicle while it is lifted by

the towing equipment.

• Do not allow passengers to ride in a vehicle

being towed.

• Always observe all state and local laws pertain­ing to warning signals, night illumination, speed,
etc.

• Do not attempt a towing operation that could
jeopardize the operator, bystanders or other motor­ists.

• Do not exceed a towing speed of 48 km/h (30
mph).

• Avoid towing distances of more than 24 km (15
miles), whenever possible.

• Never attach tow chains or a tow sling to the
bumper, steering linkage, or constant velocity
joints.

Fig. 6 POSITIVE JUMPER START ATTACHMENT

1 - ATTACHMENT CAP
2 - JUMPER START ATTACHMENT

RECOMMENDED TOWING EQUIPMENT

To avoid damage to bumper fascia and air dams
use of a wheel lift or flat bed towing device (Fig. 8) is
recommended. When using a wheel lift towing device,

0 - 16 LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE LH

TOWING (Continued)

be sure the rear end of disabled vehicle has at least
100 mm (4 inches) ground clearance. If minimum
ground clearance cannot be reached, use a towing
dolly. If a flat bed device is used, the approach angle
should not exceed :

• 13 degrees for Intrepid

• 12 degrees for Concorde and 300M

• Additional ramping may be required.

Fig. 8 RECOMMENDED TOWING DEVICES

1 - WHEEL LIFT
2 - FLAT BED

GROUND CLEARANCE

CAUTION: If vehicle is towed with wheels removed,
install lug nuts to retain brake drums or rotors.

Always tow vehicle with front wheels off the
ground as shown (Fig. 9).

Fig. 9 TOWING

Use a flat bed towing device when wheel lift tow­ing device is not available.

REAR TOWING PROCEDURES

CAUTION: Do not tow vehicle with the rear end
lifted.

If damage to the vehicle prevents front towing, use
a flat bed towing device.

CAUTION: Do not push the vehicle with another
vehicle as damage to the bumper fascia and trans­axle can result.

A towed vehicle should be raised until lifted wheels
are a minimum 100 mm (4 in) from the ground. Be
sure there is adequate ground clearance at the oppo­site end of the vehicle, especially when towing over
rough terrain or steep rises in the road. If necessary,
remove the wheels from the lifted end of the vehicle
and lower the vehicle closer to the ground, to
increase the ground clearance at the opposite end of
the vehicle. Install lug nuts on wheel attaching studs
to retain braking discs.

TIE DOWN LOCATIONS FOR FLAT BED TOWING

There are two reinforced elongated holes on each
side of the vehicle designed to serve as hold down
locations. These locations can safely hold the vehicle
to the towing device using T or R hooks.

• Bottom of the forward torque box between the

front frame rail and the rocker panel.

• Bottom of the rearward torque box forward of

the rear wheel.

FRONT TOWING PROCEDURES

CAUTION: Do Not tow vehicle from the front with
sling type towing device. Damage to bumper fascia
will result.

GROUND CLEARANCE

CAUTION: If vehicle is towed with wheels removed,
install lug nuts to retain brake drums or rotors.

A towed vehicle should be raised until lifted wheels
are a minimum 100 mm (4 in) from the ground. Be
sure there is adequate ground clearance at the oppo­site end of the vehicle, especially when towing over
rough terrain or steep rises in the road. If necessary,
remove the wheels from the lifted end of the vehicle
and lower the vehicle closer to the ground, to
increase the ground clearance at the opposite end of
the vehicle. Install lug nuts on wheel attaching studs
to retain braking discs.

TIE DOWN LOCATIONS FOR FLAT BED TOWING

There are two reinforced elongated holes on each
side of the vehicle designed to serve as hold down
locations. These locations can safely hold the vehicle
to the towing device using T or R hooks.

• Bottom of the forward torque box between the

front frame rail and the rocker panel.

• Bottom of the rearward torque box forward of

the rear wheel.

LH SUSPENSION 2 - 1

SUSPENSION

TABLE OF CONTENTS

page page

FRONT SUSPENSION .....................1

REAR SUSPENSION ......................31

FRONT SUSPENSION

TABLE OF CONTENTS

page page

FRONT SUSPENSION

DESCRIPTION - FRONT SUSPENSION .......2

OPERATION - FRONT SUSPENSION .........2

WARNING .............................2

CAUTION ..............................3

SPECIFICATIONS

FRONT SUSPENSION FASTENER TORQUE . . 3

SPECIAL TOOLS

FRONT SUSPENSION ...................3

HUB / BEARING

DESCRIPTION ..........................4

OPERATION ............................4

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HUB AND

BEARING (FRONT) .....................4

REMOVAL - HUB AND BEARING (FRONT) .....4

INSTALLATION - HUB AND BEARING (FRONT) . 6

KNUCKLE

DESCRIPTION - STEERING KNUCKLE .......7

OPERATION - STEERING KNUCKLE .........7

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - STEERING

KNUCKLE ............................7

REMOVAL - STEERING KNUCKLE ...........8

INSTALLATION - STEERING KNUCKLE ......10

LOWER BALL JOINT

DESCRIPTION .........................11

OPERATION ...........................12

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BALL JOINT .....12

LOWER CONTROL ARM

DESCRIPTION .........................12

OPERATION ...........................12

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - LOWER

CONTROL ARM .......................12

REMOVAL - LOWER CONTROL ARM ........12

DISASSEMBLY

DISASSEMBLY - LOWER CONTROL ARM

(PIVOT BUSHING) .....................14

DISASSEMBLY - LOWER CONTROL ARM

(TENSION STRUT BUSHING) ............14

WHEEL ALIGNMENT .....................50

ASSEMBLY

ASSEMBLY - LOWER CONTROL ARM

(PIVOT BUSHING) .....................15

ASSEMBLY - LOWER CONTROL ARM

(TENSION STRUT BUSHING) ............15

INSTALLATION - LOWER CONTROL ARM ....16

STABILIZER BAR

DESCRIPTION .........................16

OPERATION ...........................17

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - STABILIZER BAR

(FRONT) ............................17

REMOVAL - STABILIZER BAR (FRONT) ......17

INSTALLATION - STABILIZER BAR (FRONT) . . 20

STABILIZER BAR BUSHINGS

REMOVAL - STABILIZER BAR BUSHING

(FRONT) ............................21

INSTALLATION - STABILIZER BAR BUSHING

(FRONT) ............................21

STRUT

DESCRIPTION - STRUT ASSEMBLY (FRONT) . 22
OPERATION - STRUT ASSEMBLY (FRONT) . . . 22
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - STRUT

ASSEMBLY (FRONT) ...................23

REMOVAL - STRUT ASSEMBLY (FRONT) .....23

DISASSEMBLY - STRUT ASSEMBLY (FRONT) . 25

ASSEMBLY - STRUT ASSEMBLY (FRONT) ....27

INSTALLATION - STRUTASSEMBLY (FRONT) . 28

TENSION STRUT

DESCRIPTION .........................29

OPERATION ...........................29

REMOVAL - TENSION STRUT .............29

INSTALLATION - TENSION STRUT ..........29

TENSION STRUT CRADLE BUSHING

REMOVAL - TENSION STRUT CRADLE

BUSHING ...........................29

INSTALLATION - TENSION STRUT CRADLE

BUSHING ...........................30

2 - 2 FRONT SUSPENSION LH

FRONT SUSPENSION

DESCRIPTION - FRONT SUSPENSION

This vehicle uses a MacPherson strut type front

suspension design (Fig. 1).

The front suspension includes the following compo-

nents:

• Strut assembly

• Steering knuckle

• Hub and bearing

• Lower control arm and ball joint

• Tension strut

• Stabilizer bar

OPERATION - FRONT SUSPENSION

The front suspension allows each front wheel on a
vehicle to adapt to different road surfaces and condi­tions without affecting the control of the vehicle.
Each side of the front suspension is allowed to move
independently from the other. Both sides of the front

suspension are allowed to pivot so the vehicle can be
steered in the direction preferred. Steering of the
vehicle is provided through a rack and pinion steer­ing gear that is connected to a fixed steering arm on
each front strut.

WARNING

WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE STRUT ASSEM­BLY’S SHAFT NUT AT ANY TIME UNLESS THE COIL
SPRING HAS BEEN PROPERLY COMPRESSED
FOLLOWING THE PROCEDURE LISTED IN STRUT
ASSEMBLY DISASSEMBLY OR ASSEMBLY IN THIS
SECTION.

1 - STRUT ASSEMBLY
2 - STEERING KNUCKLE
3 - LOWER CONTROL ARM

Fig. 1 Front Suspension

4 - TENSION STRUT
5 - ENGINE CRADLE CROSSMEMBER
6 - STABILIZER BAR

LH FRONT SUSPENSION 2 - 3

FRONT SUSPENSION (Continued)

CAUTION

CAUTION: Only frame contact hoisting equipment
can be used on this vehicle. All vehicles have a
fully independent rear suspension. The vehicles
cannot be hoisted using equipment designed to lift
a vehicle by the rear axle. If this type of hoisting
equipment is used, damage to rear suspension
components will occur.

CAUTION: If the vehicle is equipped with the Tire
Pressure Monitoring (TPM) System, the tire/wheel
assembly needs to be reinstalled in the same loca­tion it is removed from or the TPM System (sen­sors) will need to be retrained. Mark each tire/wheel
assembly indicating location, prior to its removal. If
the tire/wheel assemblies are switched, rotated or
replaced, the TPM System needs to be retrained.
(Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS/TIRE PRESSURE
MONITORING/SENSOR - STANDARD PROCEDURE)

CAUTION: At no time when servicing a vehicle, can
a sheet metal screw, bolt or other metal fastener be
installed in the shock tower to take the place of an
original plastic clip. Also, NO holes can be drilled
into the front shock tower in the area shown (Fig.

2), for the installation of any metal fasteners into
the shock tower. Because of the minimum clear­ance in this area, installation of metal fasteners
could damage the coil spring coating and lead to a
corrosion failure of the spring.

SPECIFICATIONS

FRONT SUSPENSION FASTENER TORQUE

DESCRIPTION N·m

Ball Joint Pinch Bolt Nut 55 40 —
Hub And Bearing Mounting

Bolts
Hub And Bearing Axle Hub

Nut
Lower Control Arm Pivot

Bolt
Stabilizer Bar Bushing

Retainer Bolts
Stabilizer Bar Link Lower

Nut
Stabilizer Bar Link Upper

Nut
Strut Body Tower Mounting

Nuts
Strut Clevis-to-Knuckle Nuts 203 150 —
Strut Shaft Nut 95 70 —
Tie Rod Adjuster Pinch Bolt 38 28 —
Tie Rod Steering Arm Nut 37 27 —
Tension Strut Mounting Nut 130 95 —
Wheel Mounting (Lug) Nuts 135 100 —

110 81 —

142 105 —

142 105 —

61 45 —

88 65 —

95 70 —

37 28 —

Ft.

Lbs.

In.

Lbs.

Fig. 2 Strut Tower To Coil Spring Minimum

Clearance Area (Typical)

1 - SHOCK TOWER
2 - COIL SPRING
3 - NO SHEET METAL SCREWS, BOLTS, OR ANY OTHER METAL
FASTENERS ARE TO BE INSTALLED INTO SHOCK TOWER IN
THIS AREA. ALSO, NO HOLES ARE TO BE DRILLED INTO
SHOCK TOWER IN THIS SAME AREA.

SPECIAL TOOLS

FRONT SUSPENSION

Remover/Installer Lower Control Arm Bushings

6644

2 - 4 FRONT SUSPENSION LH

FRONT SUSPENSION (Continued)

HUB / BEARING

DESCRIPTION

The front wheel bearing and front wheel hub of
this vehicle are a hub and bearing unit type assem­bly. This unit combines the front wheel mounting
hub (flange) and the front wheel bearing into a
sealed one piece unit. The hub and bearing is
mounted to the center of the steering knuckle and is

Socket/Wrench Front Strut Nut 6864

Puller C-3894A

retained by three mounting bolts accessible from the
rear of the steering knuckle. The hub flange has five
wheel mounting studs.

The wheel mounting studs used to mount the tire
and wheel to the vehicle are the only replaceable
components of the hub and bearing assembly. Other­wise, the hub and bearing is serviced only as a com­plete assembly.

OPERATION

The hub and bearing has internal bearings that
allow the hub to rotate with the driveshaft and tire
and wheel. The five wheel mounting studs mount the
tire and wheel, and brake rotor to the vehicle.

Remover C-4150A

Installer MB-990799

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HUB AND
BEARING (FRONT)

The front hub bearing is designed for the life of the
vehicle and requires no type of periodic maintenance.
The following procedure may be used for diagnosing
the condition of the front hub bearing.

With the wheel, disc brake caliper, and brake rotor
removed, rotate the wheel hub. Any roughness or
resistance to rotation may indicate dirt intrusion or a
failed hub bearing. If the hub bearing exhibits any of
these conditions during diagnosis, the hub and bear­ing will require replacement. The bearing is not ser­viceable.

Damaged bearing seals and the resulting excessive
grease loss may also require bearing replacement.
Moderate grease weapage from the hub bearing is
considered normal and should not require replace­ment of the hub and bearing.

To check for excessive hub runout, (Refer to 5 ­BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/ROTORS ­DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).

REMOVAL - HUB AND BEARING (FRONT)

(1) Raise vehicle on jackstands or centered on a
frame contact hoist. See Hoisting in Lubrication and
Maintenance.

(2) Remove the front wheel and tire assembly from
the vehicle.

LH FRONT SUSPENSION 2 - 5

HUB / BEARING (Continued)

(3) Remove the 2 guide pin bolts mounting the cal­iper assembly to the steering knuckle (Fig. 3).
Remove the caliper from the front steering knuckle.
Refer to Disc Brake Caliper in Brakes.

Fig. 3 Disc Brake Caliper Mounting

1 - BRAKE LINE
2 - CALIPER GUIDE PIN BOLTS
3 - STEERING KNUCKLE
4 - BLEEDER SCREW
5 - CALIPER ASSEMBLY

(5) Remove the hub and bearing retaining nut

(Fig. 5).

Fig. 5 Hub And Bearing Retaining Nut

1 - HUB/BEARING ASSEMBLY
2 - NUT

(6) Remove the 3 hub and bearing to steering

knuckle attaching bolts (Fig. 6).

(4) Remove rotor from hub by pulling it straight
off wheel mounting studs (Fig. 4).

Fig. 4 Removing Rotor

1 - HUB
2 - STEERING KNUCKLE
3 - BRAKE ROTOR (DISC)
4 - WHEEL MOUNTING STUD

Fig. 6 Hub And Bearing Assembly Retaining Bolts

1 - STEERING KNUCKLE
2 - HUB/BEARING ATTACHING BOLTS
3 - HALF SHAFT

CAUTION: When removing hub and bearing assem­bly from steering knuckle, be careful not to damage
the flinger disc (Fig. 9) on hub and bearing assem­bly. If flinger disc becomes damaged, hub and bear­ing assembly MUST not be used and MUST be
replaced with a new hub and bearing assembly.

(7) Remove hub and bearing assembly from steer­ing knuckle by sliding it straight out of steering
knuckle and off end of stub axle (Fig. 7). If hub and
bearing assembly will not slide out of knuckle, insert

2 - 6 FRONT SUSPENSION LH

HUB / BEARING (Continued)

a pry bar between hub and bearing assembly and
steering knuckle (Fig. 8) and gently pry hub and
bearing from knuckle. If stub shaft is frozen to hub
and bearing assembly, tap end of stub shaft with soft
face hammer to free it from hub and bearing spline.

Fig. 7 Hub And Bearing Removal And Installation

1 - HUB/BEARING ASSEMBLY
2 - STEERING KNUCKLE

Fig. 8 Prying Hub And

1 - INSERT PRY BAR HERE
2-PRYBAR
3 - KNUCKLE
4 - HUB/BEARING ASSEMBLY

Fig. 9 Hub And Bearing Assembly Seal

1 - SEAL CAN MUST REMAIN TIGHT AGAINST HUB AND
BEARING ASSEMBLY HERE
2 - SEAL
3 - FLINGER
4 - DO NOT ALLOW FLINGER TO BE BENT OR DAMAGED
DURING REMOVAL OF HUB/BEARING OR C/V JOINT
5 - HUB/BEARING ASSEMBLY

INSTALLATION - HUB AND BEARING (FRONT)

CAUTION: Hub and bearing assembly mounting
surfaces on steering knuckle and driveshaft (Fig.

10) must be smooth and completely free of foreign
material or nicks.

CAUTION: If metal seal (Fig. 9) on hub and bearing
assembly is seized to steering knuckle and
becomes dislodged on hub and bearing assembly
during bearing removal. The hub and bearing
assembly MUST not be reused and MUST be
replaced with a new hub and bearing assembly.

Fig. 10 Hub And Bearing Mounting Surfaces

1 - BE SURE THESE SURFACES ARE CLEAN AND FREE OF
KNICKS BEFORE INSTALLING BEARINGS
2 - STEERING KNUCKLE
3 - STUB AXLE

LH FRONT SUSPENSION 2 - 7

HUB / BEARING (Continued)

CAUTION: When installing hub and bearing assem­bly into steering knuckle, be careful not to damage
the flinger disc (Fig. 9) on hub and bearing assem­bly. If flinger disc becomes damaged, hub and bear­ing assembly MUST not be used and MUST be
replaced with a new hub and bearing assembly.

(1) Install hub and bearing assembly onto stub
shaft and into steering knuckle until squarely seated
on face of steering knuckle

(2) Install the 3 hub and bearing assembly to
steering knuckle attaching bolts (Fig. 6). Equally
tighten all 3 mounting bolts until hub and bearing
assembly is squarely seated against front of steering
knuckle. Then tighten the 3 hub and bearing assem­bly mounting bolts to a torque of 110 N·m (80 ft. lbs.)

CAUTION: The hub and bearing axle retaining nut
(Fig. 5) is a prevailing torque nut and cannot be re­used. A NEW retaining nut MUST be used when
assembled.

(3) Install a NEW hub and bearing axle retaining
nut on the stub shaft (Fig. 5). Do not torque the

hub nut at this time.

(4) Install the brake rotor on the hub and bearing
assembly (Fig. 4).

(5) Install front brake caliper back over braking
disc and align with caliper mounting holes on steer­ing knuckle and install the caliper to steering
knuckle guide pin bolts (Fig. 3). Refer to Disc Brake
Caliper in Brakes.

(6) With vehicle brakes applied, tighten the hub
and bearing axle retaining nut to 142 N·m (105 ft.
lbs.).

(7) Install wheel and tire assembly on vehicle.
Tighten the wheel mounting stud nuts in proper
sequence until all nuts are torqued to half specifica­tion. Then repeat the tightening sequence to the full
specified torque of 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.).

(8) Lower the vehicle to the ground.

(9) Check the wheel alignment toe setting on the
vehicle and reset if not within specifications.

outer constant velocity (C/V) stub shaft is splined to
the center of the hub.

OPERATION - STEERING KNUCKLE

The steering knuckle provides for steering control
of the vehicle, supports the brake caliper and absorbs
the loads exerted during vehicle braking. It also sup­ports the front (driving) hub and bearing and drive­shaft stub axle assembly.

The steering knuckle pivots with the strut assem­bly on the lower control arm ball joint, allowing the
vehicle to be steered.

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - STEERING
KNUCKLE

The steering knuckle (Fig. 11) is not a serviceable
component. Do not attempt to straighten or repair
the knuckle in any way. If it is determined that the
knuckle is bent or damaged, replace the knuckle.

KNUCKLE

DESCRIPTION - STEERING KNUCKLE

The steering knuckle is a single casting with legs
machined for attachment to the front strut assembly
and lower control arm ball joint (Fig. 1). The steering
knuckle also has machined abutments on the casting
to support and align the front brake caliper. The
knuckle also holds the hub and bearing, and supports
the driveshaft. The hub and bearing is positioned
through the center of the knuckle. The driveshaft

Fig. 11 Steering Knuckle

1 - STRUT ASSEMBLY
2 - STUB AXLE
3 - BRAKE CALIPER MOUNTING BOSSES
4 - HUB/BEARING ASSEMBLY
5 - HUB/BEARING ATTACHING BOLTS
6 - LOWER CONTROL ARM
7 - FRONT KNUCKLE ASSEMBLY

2 - 8 FRONT SUSPENSION LH

KNUCKLE (Continued)

REMOVAL - STEERING KNUCKLE

(1) Raise vehicle on jackstands or centered on a
frame contact hoist. See Hoisting in the Lubrication
and Maintenance section.

(2) Remove the front wheel and tire assembly from
the vehicle.

(3) Remove the front caliper assembly from the
front steering knuckle assembly (Fig. 12). Refer to
Front Disc Brake Service in the Brake Section of this
service manual for caliper removal procedure.

Fig. 12 Disc Brake Caliper Mounting

1 - BRAKE LINE
2 - CALIPER GUIDE PIN BOLTS
3 - STEERING KNUCKLE
4 - BLEEDER SCREW
5 - CALIPER ASSEMBLY

(4) Remove front rotor from hub (Fig. 13).

(5) Remove screw attaching wheel speed sensor
head to steering knuckle. Speed sensor head

should be removed from steering knuckle, to
avoid damage to speed sensor by outer C/V
joint when hub and bearing is removed.

(6) Carefully, remove sensor head from steering
knuckle. If the sensor has seized, due to corrosion,
DO NOT USE PLIERS ON SENSOR HEAD.Use a
hammer and punch (Fig. 14) to tap edge of sensor
ear, rocking sensor side to side until free.

(7) Remove the hub and bearing to stub axle
retaining nut (Fig. 15).

(8) Remove the 3 steering knuckle to hub and
bearing assembly attaching bolts (Fig. 16).

Fig. 13 Brake Rotor

1 - HUB
2 - STEERING KNUCKLE
3 - BRAKE ROTOR (DISC)
4 - WHEEL MOUNTING STUD

Fig. 14 Speed Sensor Head Removal

1 - SENSOR EAR
2 - PUNCH
3 - SPEED SENSOR HEAD

LH FRONT SUSPENSION 2 - 9

KNUCKLE (Continued)

Fig. 15 Hub And Bearing Retaining Nut

1 - HUB/BEARING ASSEMBLY
2 - NUT

Fig. 16 Hub And Bearing Retaining Bolts

1 - STEERING KNUCKLE
2 - HUB/BEARING ATTACHING BOLTS
3 - HALF SHAFT

CAUTION: If metal seal (Fig. 17) on hub and bearing
assembly is seized to steering knuckle and
becomes dislodged on hub and bearing assembly
during bearing removal the hub and bearing assem­bly MUST not be reused and MUST be replaced with
a new hub and bearing assembly. Also if flinger
disc (Fig. 17) becomes damaged (bent or dented)
during removal, hub and bearing assembly must be
replaced with a new hub and bearing assembly.

Fig. 17 Hub And Bearing Assembly Seal

1 - SEAL CAN MUST REMAIN TIGHT AGAINST HUB AND
BEARING ASSEMBLY HERE
2 - SEAL
3 - FLINGER
4 - DO NOT ALLOW FLINGER TO BE BENT OR DAMAGED
DURING REMOVAL OF HUB/BEARING OR C/V JOINT
5 - HUB/BEARING ASSEMBLY

(9) Remove hub and bearing assembly from steer­ing knuckle. It is removed by sliding it straight out
of steering knuckle and off end of stub axle (Fig. 18).
If hub and bearing assembly will not slide out of
knuckle, insert a pry bar between hub and bearing
assembly and steering knuckle (Fig. 19) and gently
pry hub and bearing from knuckle. If stub shaft is
frozen to hub and bearing assembly tap end of stub
shaft with soft face hammer to free it from hub and
bearing spline.

(10) Remove the ball joint stud to steering knuckle
attaching nut and bolt (Fig. 20).

CAUTION: When lower control arm is separated
from steering knuckle, do not let ball joint seal hit
up against steering knuckle. If ball joint seal hits
steering knuckle, seal damage may occur. If ball
joint seal becomes torn, replace seal before assem­bling lower control arm to knuckle.

2 - 10 FRONT SUSPENSION LH

KNUCKLE (Continued)

Fig. 18 Hub And Bearing

1 - HUB/BEARING ASSEMBLY
2 - STEERING KNUCKLE

Fig. 19 Prying Hub And Bearing Assembly From

Steering Knuckle

1 - INSERT PRY BAR HERE
2-PRYBAR
3 - KNUCKLE
4 - HUB/BEARING ASSEMBLY

(11) Carefully insert a pry bar between lower con­trol arm and steering knuckle (Fig. 21). Push down
on pry bar to separate ball joint stud from steering
knuckle (Fig. 21).

CAUTION: The strut assembly to steering knuckle
bolts are serrated where they go through strut
assembly and steering knuckle. When removing
bolts, turn nuts off bolts DO NOT TURN BOLTS IN
STEERING KNUCKLE. If bolts are turned damage to
steering knuckle will result.

(12) Remove the strut assembly to steering
knuckle attaching bolts (Fig. 22).

(13) Remove the steering knuckle from the vehicle.

Fig. 20 Control Arm To Steering Knuckle

Attachment

1 - LOWER CONTROL ARM
2 - BALL JOINT STUD
3 - CLAMP NUT AND BOLT

Fig. 21 Separating Ball Joint From Steering Knuckle

1 - STEERING KNUCKLE
2 - BALL JOINT STUD
3-PRYBAR
4 - LOWER CONTROL ARM

INSTALLATION - STEERING KNUCKLE

(1) Install steering knuckle on ball joint stud.
Install steering knuckle to lower ball joint attaching
bolt and nut into steering knuckle (Fig. 20). Tighten
the attaching bolt to a torque of 55 N·m (40 ft. lbs.).

(2) Position steering knuckle into strut assembly.

CAUTION: The strut assembly to steering knuckle
bolts are serrated were they go through strut
assembly and steering knuckle. When installing
bolts, turn nuts onto bolts DO NOT TURN BOLTS IN
STEERING KNUCKLE. If bolts are turned damage to
steering knuckle will result.

LH FRONT SUSPENSION 2 - 11

KNUCKLE (Continued)

CAUTION: When installing hub and bearing assem­bly into steering knuckle, be careful not to damage
the flinger disc (Fig. 17) on hub and bearing assem­bly. If flinger disc becomes damaged, hub and bear­ing assembly MUST not be used and MUST be
replaced with a new hub and bearing assembly.

(4) Install hub and bearing assembly onto stub
shaft and into steering knuckle until squarely seated
on face of steering knuckle.

(5) Install the 3 steering knuckle to hub and bear­ing assembly attaching bolts (Fig. 16). Equally
tighten all 3 mounting bolts until hub and bearing
assembly is squarely seated against front of steering
knuckle. Then tighten all 3 hub and bearing assem­bly mounting bolts to a torque of 110 N·m (80 ft. lbs.)

Fig. 22 Strut To Steering Knuckle Attaching Bolts

1 - STRUT ASSEMBLY
2 - NUTS
3 - STRUT ASSEMBLY TO STEERING KNUCKLE ATTACHING
BOLTS
4 - STEERING KNUCKLE

(3) Install the strut assembly to steering knuckle
attaching bolts (Fig. 22). Install nuts on attaching
bolts (Fig. 22). Tighten the strut clevis to steering
knuckle attaching bolt nuts to a torque of 203 N·m
(150 ft. lbs.).

CAUTION: Hub and bearing assembly mounting
surfaces on steering knuckle and halfshaft (Fig. 23)
must be smooth and completely free of foreign
material or nicks.

CAUTION: The hub and bearing axle retaining nut
(Fig. 15) is a prevailing torque nut and cannot be
reused. A NEW retaining nut MUST be used.

(6) Install a NEW hub and bearing axle retaining

nut on the stub shaft (Fig. 15). Do not torque the

hub nut at this time.

(7) Coat speed sensor head with High Temperature
Multipurpose E.P. Grease before installing into the
steering knuckle. Install speed sensor head into
steering knuckle. Install screw and tighten to a
torque of 7 N·m (60 in. lbs.)

(8) Install the brake rotor back on the hub and
bearing assembly (Fig. 13).

(9) Install front brake caliper on steering knuckle.
Refer to Disc Brake Caliper in Brakes. Install the
caliper to steering knuckle attaching bolts (Fig. 12)
and tighten them to a torque of 22 N·m (192 in. lbs.).

(10) Apply the brakes, then tighten the axle
retaining nut to a torque of 142 N·m (105 ft. lbs.).

(11) Install wheel and tire assembly on vehicle.
Tighten the wheel mounting stud nuts in proper
sequence until all nuts are torqued to half specifica­tion. Then repeat the tightening sequence to the full
specified torque of 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.).

(12) Lower vehicle to the ground.

Fig. 23 Hub And Bearing Assembly Mounting

Surfaces

1 - BE SURE THESE SURFACES ARE CLEAN AND FREE OF
KNICKS BEFORE INSTALLING BEARINGS
2 - STEERING KNUCKLE
3 - STUB AXLE

LOWER BALL JOINT

DESCRIPTION

The ball joint is an integral part of the control arm
and has a non-tapered stud with a notch for clamp
(pinch) bolt installation. The stud is clamped and
locked into the steering knuckle leg using a clamp
(pinch) bolt.

2 - 12 FRONT SUSPENSION LH

LOWER BALL JOINT (Continued)

The ball joint used in the lower control arm of this
vehicle is a sealed-for-life ball joint and requires no
maintenance lubrication. The ball joint cannot be ser­viced separately from the lower control arm. If the
ball joint is determined to be defective it will require
replacement of the complete lower control arm. Refer
to DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING in this section for
proper testing of the ball joint.

NOTE: The ball joint does not require any type of
additional lubrication for the life of the vehicle. No
attempt should be made to ever add any lubrication
to the lower ball joint.

OPERATION

The ball joint is a pivotal joint on the lower control
arm that allows the knuckle to move up and down,
and turn with ease.

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BALL JOINT

Raise front of vehicle using jack stands or a frame
contact hoist until front suspension is in full rebound
and tires are not in contact with the ground. Grasp
tire at top and bottom, and apply in and out force on
the wheel and tire. While applying force to the tire,
look for any movement between the lower ball joint
and lower control arm. If any movement is evident,
the lower ball joint is worn and the lower control arm
requires replacement. The ball joint is not serviced
separately.

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - LOWER CONTROL
ARM

Inspect the lower control arm for signs of damage
from contact with the ground or road debris. If the
lower control arm shows any sign of damage, inspect
the lower control arm to see if it is bent.

The only serviceable components of the lower con­trol arm are the pivot bushing and the tension strut
bushing. The lower control arm is serviced as a com­plete assembly otherwise. Do not attempt to

repair or straighten a broken or bent lower
control arm. It must be replaced.

REMOVAL - LOWER CONTROL ARM

(1) Raise vehicle on jackstands or centered on a
frame contact hoist. See Hoisting in Lubrication and
Maintenance.

(2) Remove the wheel and tire assembly from the
vehicle.

(3) Remove the ball joint stud to steering knuckle
attaching nut and bolt (Fig. 24).

LOWER CONTROL ARM

DESCRIPTION

The lower control arm is a steel forging with 2 rub­ber bushings and a ball joint (Fig. 1). The bushing
isolating the lower control arm from the front cradle/
crossmember is a metal encased pivot bushing. The
bushing isolating the lower control arm from the ten­sion strut is a solid rubber bushing. The lower con­trol arm is bolted to the cradle/crossmember using a
bolt through the center of the pivot bushing. The ten­sion strut is fastened through the center of the ten­sion strut bushing and lower control arm. The lower
control arm ball joint connects to the steering
knuckle.

OPERATION

The lower control arm supports the lower end of
the steering knuckle and allows for the up and down
movement of the suspension during the jounce and
rebound travel.

Fig. 24 Control Arm To Steering Knuckle

1 - LOWER CONTROL ARM
2 - BALL JOINT STUD
3 - CLAMP NUT AND BOLT

CAUTION: Pulling steering knuckle out from vehicle
after releasing from ball joint can separate inner
C/V joint. See Driveshafts.

CAUTION: When lower control arm is separated
from steering knuckle, do not let ball joint seal hit
up against steering knuckle. If ball joint seal hits
steering knuckle, seal damage may occur. If ball
joint seal becomes torn, replace seal before assem­bling lower control arm to knuckle.

LH FRONT SUSPENSION 2 - 13

LOWER CONTROL ARM (Continued)

(4) Carefully insert a pry bar between lower con­trol arm and steering knuckle (Fig. 25). Push down
on pry bar to separate ball joint stud from steering
knuckle (Fig. 25).

Fig. 25 Separating Ball Joint From Steering Knuckle

1 - STEERING KNUCKLE
2 - BALL JOINT STUD
3-PRYBAR
4 - LOWER CONTROL ARM

(5) Remove tension strut to cradle attaching nut
and washer from end of tension strut (Fig. 26). When
removing tension strut nut, keep strut from turning
by holding tension strut at flat using an open end
wrench (Fig. 26). Discard tension strut to cradle

retaining nut. A NEW tension strut to cradle
nut must be used when installing tension strut.

(6) Loosen and remove lower control arm pivot

bushing to cradle assembly pivot bolt (Fig. 27).

Fig. 27 Lower Control Arm Pivot Bolt

1 - CRADLE ASSEMBLY
2 - PIVOT BOLT
3 - LOWER CONTROL ARM

(7) Remove lower control arm and tension strut
from the cradle as an assembly. Remove them from
cradle by first removing pivot bushing end from cra­dle and then sliding tension strut out of isolator
bushing (Fig. 28) (Fig. 29).

Fig. 26 Tension Strut To Cradle Mounting

1 - NUT
2 - WASHER
3 - TENSION STRUT
4 - CRADLE ASSEMBLY
5 - ISOLATOR BUSHING
6 - FLAT

Fig. 28 Lower Control Arm Removal/Installation

1 - ISOLATOR BUSHING
2 - TENSION STRUT
3 - CRADLE
4 - PIVOT BUSHING
5 - LOWER CONTROL ARM BRACKET
6 - LOWER CONTROL ARM

(8) Remove tension strut to control arm retaining
nut and washer from end of tension strut (Fig. 29).
While removing nut, keep strut from turning by hold­ing tension strut at flat using an open end wrench.

Discard the retaining nut. A NEW nut must be
used when installing tension strut.

(9) Separate the tension strut from the lower con­trol arm.

2 - 14 FRONT SUSPENSION LH

LOWER CONTROL ARM (Continued)

Fig. 29 Lower Control Arm And Tension Strut

1 - BALL JOINT STUD
2 - BALL JOINT SEAL
3 - LOWER CONTROL ARM TENSION STRUT BUSHING
4 - NUT
5 - TENSION STRUT
6 - TENSION STRUT TO CRADLE ISOLATOR BUSHING
7 - LOWER CONTROL ARM
8 - LOWER CONTROL ARM PIVOT BUSHING
9 - WORD 9FRONT9 STAMPED IN CONTROL ARM HERE

DISASSEMBLY

DISASSEMBLY - LOWER CONTROL ARM
(PIVOT BUSHING)

(1) Remove lower control arm and tension strut as

an assembly from the vehicle.

(2) Separate the tension strut from the lower con-

trol arm assembly.

(3) Position lower control arm in arbor press with
large end of pivot bushing inside Receiver, Special
Tool MB-990799, as shown (Fig. 30). Position
Remover, Special Tool 6644-2, on top of pivot bushing
(Fig. 30).

(4) Using the arbor press, press the lower control
arm pivot bushing out of lower control arm.

(5) Remove the pressed out lower control arm
pivot bushing from the Receiver and discard.

DISASSEMBLY - LOWER CONTROL ARM
(TENSION STRUT BUSHING)

(1) Remove lower control arm and tension strut as
an assembly from the vehicle. See Lower Control
Arm/Removal in this section.

(2) Separate the tension strut from the lower con­trol arm assembly.

(3) Position lower control arm in arbor press with
tension strut bushing inside Receiver, Special Tool
MB-990799, as shown (Fig. 31). Position Remover,
Special Tool 6644-4, on top of tension strut bushing
(Fig. 31).

Fig. 30 Lower Control Arm Pivot Bushing

1 - ARBOR PRESS RAM
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 6644-2
3 - SPECIAL TOOL MB990799
4 - PIVOT BUSHING
5 - LOWER CONTROL ARM

Fig. 31 Removing Lower Control Arm Tension Strut

Bushing

1 - ARBOR PRESS RAM
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 6644-4
3 - SPECIAL TOOL MB990799
4 - TENSION STRUT BUSHING
5 - LOWER CONTROL ARM

(4) Lower the arbor press ram, pressing Remover,
Special Tool 6644-4, down through the tension strut
bushing until the arbor press can push it no farther.
This action will cut the bushing into two pieces.

(5) Remove lower control arm from arbor press.
Remove pieces of tension strut and Remover, Special
Tool 6644-4, from lower control arm.

LH FRONT SUSPENSION 2 - 15

LOWER CONTROL ARM (Continued)

ASSEMBLY

ASSEMBLY - LOWER CONTROL ARM (PIVOT
BUSHING)

(1) Position the lower control arm so it is sup­ported by Receiver, Special Tool MB-990799, as
shown (Fig. 32).

(2) Place new pivot bushing in lower control arm
so it is square with the bushing hole. Position
Installer, Special Tool 6644-1, on top of pivot bushing,
with pivot bushing setting in recessed area of
Installer (Fig. 32).

Fig. 33 Pivot Bushing

1 - SPECIAL TOOL 6644-1
2 - SPECIAL TOOL MB990799
3 - PRESS PIVOT BUSHING INTO LOWER CONTROL ARM
UNTIL INSTALLER TOUCHES THIS SURFACE OF CONTROL
ARM

Fig. 32 Installing Lower Control Arm Pivot Bushing

1 - ARBOR PRESS RAM
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 6644-1
3 - SPECIAL TOOL MB990799
4 - PIVOT BUSHING
5 - TENSION STRUT BUSHING
6 - LOWER CONTROL ARM

(3) Press pivot bushing into lower control arm
until Installer, Special Tool 6644-1, squarely bottoms
against surface of lower control arm (Fig. 33). At that
point, the bushing is installed to the correct position
in control arm.

(4) Attach tension strut to lower control arm and
install on car as an assembly. See Lower Control
Arm/Installation.

ASSEMBLY - LOWER CONTROL ARM
(TENSION STRUT BUSHING)

(1) Thoroughly lubricate the replacement tension
strut bushing, lower control arm and Installer, Spe­cial Tool 6644-3, using Mopart Rubber Bushing
Installation Lube, or an equivalent.

(2) By hand, install tension strut bushing into
large end of Installer, Special Tool 6644-3. Press
bushing into installer as far as it will go by hand.

(3) Position lower control arm in arbor press, so
tension strut hole in lower control arm is centered on
Receiver, Special Tool MB-990799 (Fig. 34). Position
Installer, Special Tool 6644-3 (with previously
installed bushing) inside of tension strut bushing
hole in lower control arm (Fig. 34). Position Installer,
Special Tool 6644-2 on top of tension strut bushing
(Fig. 34).

Fig. 34 Installing Tension Strut Bushing Into Lower

Control Arm

1 - ARBOR PRESS
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 6644-2
3 - LOWER CONTROL ARM
4 - SPECIAL TOOL 6644-3
5 - SPECIAL TOOL MB990799

2 - 16 FRONT SUSPENSION LH

LOWER CONTROL ARM (Continued)

(4) Using the arbor press, press the tension strut
bushing into the lower control arm. As the bushing is
being pressed into the control arm a pop noise will be
heard. When the pop is heard, Installer, Special Tool
6644-3, will move slightly up off the control arm. At
this time, remove the control arm assembly from the
arbor press and pull Special Tool 6644-3 off the ten­sion strut bushing in the control arm. Tension strut
bushing is now installed.

(5) Attach tension strut to lower control arm and
install lower control arm and tension strut as an
assembly back on the vehicle. See Lower Control
Arm/Installation.

INSTALLATION - LOWER CONTROL ARM

(1) Position tension strut in lower control arm as
shown (Fig. 35). Make sure the word FRONT which
is stamped in tension strut, is positioned away from
control arm.

Fig. 35 Lower Control Arm And Tension Strut

1 - BALL JOINT STUD
2 - BALL JOINT SEAL
3 - LOWER CONTROL ARM TENSION STRUT BUSHING
4 - NUT
5 - TENSION STRUT
6 - TENSION STRUT TO CRADLE ISOLATOR BUSHING
7 - LOWER CONTROL ARM
8 - LOWER CONTROL ARM PIVOT BUSHING
9 - WORD 9FRONT9 STAMPED IN CONTROL ARM HERE

(2) Install the washer and a NEW retaining nut
on the end of the tension strut at the control arm.
Place an open end wrench on flat of tension strut to
keep it from turning tension whilt tightening retain­ing nut. Tighten retaining nut to a torque of 130 N·m
(95 ft. lbs.).

(3) Install the lower control arm and tension strut
assembly on the engine/suspension cradle in the fol­lowing manner. Install tension strut and isolator
bushing end into cradle first, then install lower con­trol arm pivot bushing end into bracket on cradle
(Fig. 28).

(4) Install the lower control arm to cradle bracket

attaching pivot bolt and nut (Fig. 27). Do not

tighten the lower control arm to cradle bracket
attaching bolt at this time.

(5) Install washer on end of tension strut (Fig. 26).
Install a NEW tension strut to cradle bracket nut, on
tension strut (Fig. 26). Tighten the tension strut to
cradle bracket retaining nut to a torque of 130 N·m
(95 ft. lbs.). When torquing tension strut nut, keep
tension strut from turning by holding tension strut
at flat using an open end wrench (Fig. 26).

CAUTION: Pulling steering knuckle out from vehicle
after releasing from ball joint can separate inner
C/V joint. See Driveshafts.

CAUTION: When ball joint stud is installed into
steering knuckle, do not let ball joint seal hit up
against steering knuckle. If ball joint seal hits steer­ing knuckle, seal damage may occur. If ball joint
seal becomes torn, replace seal before assembling
lower control arm to knuckle.

(6) Install lower ball joint stud into steering
knuckle. Install steering knuckle to lower ball joint
stud, clamp bolt and nut into steering knuckle (Fig.

24). Tighten the clamping bolt to a torque of 55 N·m
(40 ft. lbs.).

(7) Install the wheel and tire assembly.

(8) Tighten the wheel mounting stud nuts in
proper sequence until all nuts are torqued to half
specification. Then repeat the tightening sequence to
the full specified torque of 129 N·m (95 ft. lbs.).

(9) Lower vehicle so the suspension is supporting
vehicles weight (control arm at design height).
Tighten the lower control arm pivot bushing to cradle
bracket attaching bolt (Fig. 27) to a torque of 142
N·m (105 ft. lbs.).

STABILIZER BAR

DESCRIPTION

The stabilizer bar interconnects both front struts of
the vehicle and is attached to the front cradle/cross­member (Fig. 1).

Attachment of the stabilizer bar to the front cradle/
crossmember is through 2 rubber-isolator cushion
bushings and retainers. A double ball jointed stabi­lizer bar link is used to attach each end of the stabi­lizer bar to the front strut assemblies. All parts of
the stabilizer bar are replaceable as individual com­ponents.

The stabilizer bar to front cradle cushion bushings
are slit for easy removal and installation. The slit

LH FRONT SUSPENSION 2 - 17

STABILIZER BAR (Continued)

must be positioned toward the front of the vehicle
when the stabilizer bar is installed.

OPERATION

Jounce and rebound movements affecting one
wheel are partially transmitted to the opposite wheel
of the vehicle through the stabilizer bar. This helps
to minimize the body roll of the vehicle during sus­pension movement.

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - STABILIZER BAR
(FRONT)

Inspect for broken or distorted retainers and bush­ings. If bushing replacement is required, bushing can
be removed by opening slit in bushing and removing
bushing from around stabilizer bar. The stabilizer
bar to cradle assembly bushings, should be positioned
on stabilizer bar, so slit in bushing is positioned
toward the front of the vehicle when the stabilizer
bar is installed (Fig. 36).

strut assembly. Remove the link from the strut
assembly (Fig. 38).

Fig. 37 Strut Assembly Upper Mounting

1 - SHOCK TOWER
2 - STRUT ASSEMBLY MOUNTING NUTS

(4) Remove the right stabilizer bar link nut at the

Fig. 36 Stabilizer

1 - STABILIZER BAR
2 - SLIT
3 - FRONT OF CAR
4 - SLIT
5 - ISOLATOR BUSHINGS
6 - RETAINERS

REMOVAL - STABILIZER BAR (FRONT)

(1) Remove the 4 strut assembly upper mount to
strut tower mounting nut and washer assemblies
securing the right front strut in place (Fig. 37).

(2) Raise vehicle on jack stands or centered on a
frame contact hoist. See Hoisting in Lubrication and
Maintenance.

(3) Remove right front wheel and tire assembly
from the vehicle.

Fig. 38 Stabilizer Bar Link At Strut

1 - NUT
2 - OUTER TIE ROD
3 - NUT
4 - STEERING ARM
5 - STRUT ASSEMBLY

(5) Remove the left stablizer bar link nut at the
stabilizer bar (Fig. 39). Remove the link from the sta­bilizer bar.

(6) Loosen, but do not remove, the right outer tie
rod end to strut arm attaching nut. Release right
outer tie rod end from right strut steering arm using
Puller, Special Tool C-3894A (Fig. 40), then remove
nut and tie rod from the steering arm.

2 - 18 FRONT SUSPENSION LH

STABILIZER BAR (Continued)

Fig. 39 Stabilizer Bar At Left Link

1 - LINK
2 - STABILIZER BAR
3 - LOWER ARM
4 - NUT
5 - KNUCKLE

Fig. 40 Removing Outer Tie Rod From Steering Arm

1 - TIE ROD END
2 - STEERING ARM
3 - STRUT
4 - C-3894A

(7) If vehicle is equipped with antilock brakes,
remove the speed sensor cable routing bracket from
the strut assembly (Fig. 41).

CAUTION: The strut assembly to steering knuckle
bolts are serrated were they go through strut
assembly and steering knuckle. When removing
bolts, turn nuts off bolts DO NOT TURN BOLTS IN
STEERING KNUCKLE. If bolts are turned damage to
steering knuckle will result.

Fig. 41 Speed Sensor Cable Routing Bracket

1 - STRUT ASSEMBLY
2 - ROUTING BRACKET
3 - SCREW
4 - SPEED SENSOR CABLE

(8) Remove the 2 strut assembly to steering

knuckle attaching bolts (Fig. 42).

Fig. 42 Strut Assembly To Steering Knuckle

Attaching Bolts

1 - BOLTS
2 - STRUT ASSEMBLY
3 - NUTS
4 - KNUCKLE

(9) Remove right front strut assembly from vehi-

cle.

(10) Remove the nine bolts securing the structural

collar to the engine oil pan and transaxle (Fig. 43).

(11) Remove the 4 nuts attaching the engine motor

mounts to the cradle assembly (Fig. 44).

LH FRONT SUSPENSION 2 - 19

STABILIZER BAR (Continued)

Fig. 43 Structural Collar

1 - TRANSAXLE
2 - MOUNTING BOLTS
3 - ENGINE OIL PAN
4 - STRUCTURAL COLLAR
5 - STABILIZER BAR

Fig. 44 Motor Mount To Cradle Assembly

Attachment

1 - ENGINE OIL PAN
2 - MOTOR MOUNT ATTACHING NUTS
3 - CRADLE ASSEMBLY
4 - STABILIZER BAR

(12) Remove the bolts attaching each of the 2 sta­bilizer bushing retainers to the cradle assembly (Fig.

45).

(13) Remove both stabilizer bar isolator bushing
retainers and bushings from stabilizer bar (Fig. 45).

(14) Position a transmission jack under the body of
the engine oil pan (Fig. 46). Use a wood block as a
buffer between the jack and the engine oil pan in
order to avoid damage to the pan (Fig. 46). Carefully
raise the jack until the motor mounts clear the cradle
assembly. It may be necessary to raise the jack fur­ther.

Fig. 45 Stabilizer Bar Isolator Bushing Attachment

To Cradle

1 - STABILIZER BAR
2 - ATTACHING BOLTS
3 - CRADLE
4 - BUSHING RETAINER
5 - ISOLATOR BUSHING

Fig. 46 Jack Positioning Below Engine Oil Pan

1 - TRANSAXLE
2 - RIGHT FRONT MOTOR MOUNT STUD
3 - CRADLE ASSEMBLY
4 - ENGINE OIL PAN
5 - WOOD BLOCK
6 - JACK
7 - STABILIZER BAR

(15) Remove the stabilizer bar out the right side
by rotating it, taking advantage of the removed
structural collar area between the engine and trans­axle assembly. Remove the stabilizer bar out the
right wheel opening by routing it in front of the right
halfshaft then behind the right knuckle (Fig. 47).

2 - 20 FRONT SUSPENSION LH

STABILIZER BAR (Continued)

CAUTION: Be careful not to pull knuckle outward,
thus stretching halfshaft and possibly separating
inner C/V joint. See Driveshafts. Keep knuckle in
upright position.

Fig. 47 Stabilizer Bar Removal/Installation

1 - STABILIZER BAR
2 - HALFSHAFT
3 - KNUCKLE

INSTALLATION - STABILIZER BAR (FRONT)

(1) Install stabilizer bar by reversing the manner
in which it was removed (Fig. 47). Rotate the bar the
opposite direction used when removed and move it
into mounting position.

CAUTION: Be careful not to pull knuckle outward,
thus stretching halfshaft and possibly separating
inner C/V joint. See Driveshafts. Keep knuckle in
upright position.

(5) Install stabilizer bar isolator bushings onto sta­bilizer bar with slits facing forward and flat side fac­ing downward. The stabilizer bar to cradle

assembly bushings must be positioned on the
stabilizer bar so the slit in the bushing is posi­tioned toward front of vehicle (Fig. 48).

Fig. 48 Stabilizer Bar Isolator Bushing

1 - STABILIZER BAR
2 - STABILIZER BAR ISOLATOR BUSHING
3 - CRADLE ASSEMBLY
4 - FRONT OF CAR
5 - SLIT

(6) Install the isolator bushing retainers onto the
stabilizer bar isolator bushings (Fig. 45).

CAUTION: When stabilizer bar is installed, position
stabilizer bar so lower part of stabilizer bar is cen­tered in the middle of the cradle assembly. Failure
to do this may cause stabilizer bar to come in con­tact with other suspension components.

(2) Lower the jack supporting the engine, guiding
the motor mount studs into place in the cradle
assembly (Fig. 46).

(3) Install the 4 engine motor mount to cradle
assembly attaching nuts (Fig. 44). Tighten the 4 nuts
to a torque of 61 N·m (45 ft. lbs).

(4) Install the structural collar to the engine oil
pan and the transaxle. The structural collar should
be installed using the following sequence:

• Position collar onto engine oil pan and transaxle

(Fig. 43).

• Install the 2 center collar bolts to oil pan bolts.

Tighten bolts initially to 3 N·m (30 in. lbs).

• Install collar to transmission bolts and tighten

to 61 N·m (45 ft. lbs).

• Install the remaining collar to engine oil pan
bolts. starting with the center bolts and working out­wards, tighten collar to oil pan bolts to 61 N·m (45 ft.
lbs).

(7) Align the stabilizer bar bushing retainers with
the mounting holes in the cradle assembly. Install
and tighten the 4 stabilizer bar bushing retainer to
cradle assembly attaching bolts to 61 N·m (45 ft.
lbs.). (Fig. 45).

(8) Install left side stabilizer bar attaching link to
left end of stabilizer bar (Fig. 39). Install attaching
nut and tighten to 95 N·m (70 ft. lbs.).

(9) Install right front strut assembly into shock
tower. Install the 4 strut assembly upper mount to
shock tower attaching nuts (Fig. 37). Tighten the 4
strut mount to strut tower attaching nuts to a torque
of 45 N·m (33 ft. lbs.) torque.

(10) Position steering knuckle into strut assembly.

LH FRONT SUSPENSION 2 - 21

STABILIZER BAR (Continued)

CAUTION: The strut assembly to steering knuckle
bolts are serrated were they go through strut
assembly and steering knuckle. When installing
bolts, turn nuts onto bolts DO NOT TURN BOLTS IN
STEERING KNUCKLE. If bolts are turned damage to
steering knuckle will result.

(11) Install the strut assembly to steering knuckle
attaching bolts (Fig. 42). Install nuts on attaching
bolts. Tighten the strut assembly to steering knuckle
attaching bolt nuts to a torque of 203 N·m (150 ft.
lbs.).

(12) If the vehicle is equipped with antilock
brakes. Install the front speed sensor cable routing
bracket onto the front strut assembly (Fig. 41).

(13) Install outer tie rod on strut assembly. Install
tie rod attaching nut (Fig. 38). Tighten the tie rod
attaching nut to a torque of 37 N·m (27 ft. lbs.).

(14) Install stabilizer bar link on strut (Fig. 38).
Tighten the stabilizer link attaching nut to a torque
of 95 N·m (70 ft. lbs.).

(15) Install the right front wheel and tire assem­bly.

(16) Tighten the wheel mounting nuts in proper
sequence until all nuts are torqued to half specifica­tion. Repeat the tightening sequence to the full spec­ified torque of 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.).

(17) Lower vehicle to the ground.

Fig. 49 Stabilizer Bar Isolator Bushing Attachment

To Cradle

1 - STABILIZER BAR
2 - ATTACHING BOLTS
3 - CRADLE
4 - BUSHING RETAINER
5 - ISOLATOR BUSHING

STABILIZER BAR BUSHINGS

REMOVAL - STABILIZER BAR BUSHING
(FRONT)

(1) Raise vehicle on jack stands or centered on a
frame contact hoist. See Hoisting in Lubrication and
Maintenance.

(2) Remove the 2 bolts attaching each of the 2 sta­bilizer bushing retainers and bushings to the cradle
assembly (Fig. 49).

(3) Remove the stabilizer bar isolator bushing
retainers from the isolator bushings.

(4) Inspect for broken or distorted retainers and
bushings. If bushing replacement is required, the
bushing can be removed by opening the slit in the
bushing and removing the bushing from around sta­bilizer bar. The stabilizer bar to cradle assembly

bushings must be positioned on the stabilizer
bar so the slit in the bushing is positioned
toward front of vehicle (Fig. 50).

INSTALLATION - STABILIZER BAR BUSHING
(FRONT)

(1) Install bushings onto stabilizer bar with slits
facing forward and flat side facing downward. The

stabilizer bar to cradle assembly bushings must

Fig. 50 Stabilizer

1 - STABILIZER BAR
2 - SLIT
3 - FRONT OF CAR
4 - SLIT
5 - ISOLATOR BUSHINGS
6 - RETAINERS

be positioned on the stabilizer bar so the slit in
the bushing is positioned toward front of vehi­cle (Fig. 51).

(2) Install the isolator bushing retainers back onto

the stabilizer bar isolator bushings.

CAUTION: When stabilizer bar is installed. Position
stabilizer bar, so lower part of stabilizer bar is cen­tered in the middle of the cradle assembly. Failure
to do this may cause stabilizer bar to come in con­tact with other suspension components.

2 - 22 FRONT SUSPENSION LH

STABILIZER BAR BUSHINGS (Continued)

• Jounce bumper

• Jounce bumper cup

• Coil spring

• Upper spring isolator

• Lower spring isolator

• Strut

Fig. 51 Stabilizer Bar Isolator Bushing

1 - STABILIZER BAR
2 - STABILIZER BAR ISOLATOR BUSHING
3 - CRADLE ASSEMBLY
4 - FRONT OF CAR
5 - SLIT

(3) Align the stabilizer bar bushing retainers with
the mounting holes in the cradle assembly (Fig. 49).

(4) Install and torque the 4 stabilizer bar bushing
retainer to cradle assembly attaching bolts (2 each
retainer) to 61 N·m (45 ft. lbs.).

(5) Lower vehicle to the ground.

STRUT

DESCRIPTION - STRUT ASSEMBLY (FRONT)

The front strut and suspension of the vehicle is
supported by coil springs positioned around the
struts (Fig. 1). The springs are contained between an
upper seat, located just below the upper strut mount
and a lower spring seat on the strut housing. A steer­ing arm is permanently attached to each strut mak­ing it side specific.

The top of each strut assembly is bolted to the
upper fender reinforcement (strut tower) through a
rubber isolated mount.

The bottom of the strut assembly attaches to the
top of the steering knuckle with two serrated
through-bolts and prevailing torque nuts.

Coil springs are rated separately for each corner or
side of the vehicle depending on optional equipment
and type of vehicle service.

The components of the strut assembly listed below
are serviceable if found to be defective (Fig. 52):

• Strut shaft retainer nut

• Upper mount

• Seat and bearing

• Dust shield

Fig. 52 Strut Assembly Components

1 - SEATAND BEARING
2 - DUST SHIELD
3 - CUP
4 - LOWER SPRING ISOLATOR
5 - STRUT
6 - JOUNCE BUMPER
7 - COIL SPRING
8 - UPPER SPRING ISOLATOR
9 - UPPER MOUNT

OPERATION - STRUT ASSEMBLY (FRONT)

The strut assembly cushions the ride of the vehicle,
controlling vibration, jounce and rebound of the sus­pension.

The coil spring controls ride quality and maintains
proper ride height.

The spring isolators isolate the coil spring at the
top and bottom from coming into metal-to-metal con­tact with the upper mounting seat and the strut.

The jounce bumper limits suspension travel and
metal-to-metal contact under full jounce condition.

The strut dampens jounce and rebound motions of
the coil spring and suspension.

LH FRONT SUSPENSION 2 - 23

STRUT (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - STRUT ASSEMBLY
(FRONT)

(1) Inspect for damaged or broken coil springs.
(2) Inspect for torn or damaged strut assembly

dust boots.

(3) Lift dust boot and inspect strut assembly for
evidence of fluid running from the upper end of fluid
reservoir. (Actual leakage will be a stream of fluid
running down the side and dripping off lower end of
unit). A slight amount of seepage between the strut
rod and strut shaft seal is not unusual and does not
affect performance of the strut assembly. Also inspect
jounce bumpers for signs of damage or deterioration.

(4) Inspect the upper strut mount assembly. Make
sure the correct mount is on the correct side of the
vehicle. Looking down at the top of the upper mount,
2 tabs can be seen, (Fig. 53) and (Fig. 54), down
inside the mount center well. The positioning of
these tabs is critical to vehicle ride and sound. DO

1 - NOTCH
2 - STEERING ARM
3 - OUTBOARD STRUT COIL SPRING SEAT
4 - RUBBER TABS

Fig. 54 Right Front Strut Upper Mount

NOT install a right mount on the left front strut
or a left mount on a right front strut. If the strut

is off the vehicle, a rectangular hole can be seen on
the edge of the mount mounting surface (Fig. 53) and
(Fig. 54). This is always in the 10 o’clock position
when observing rubber tab positioning, whether a

Coil springs are rated separately for each corner or
side of the vehicle depending on optional equipment
and type of vehicle service. Be sure that the springs
meet the correct load rating for the vehicle and its
specific options.

left or right mount is being observed.

REMOVAL - STRUT ASSEMBLY (FRONT)

Fig. 53 Left Front Strut Upper Mount

1 - NOTCH
2 - RUBBER TABS
3 - OUTBOARD STRUT COIL SPRING SEAT
4 - STEERING ARM

WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE STRUT ASSEM­BLY’S SHAFT NUT AT ANY TIME UNLESS THE COIL
SPRING HAS BEEN PROPERLY COMPRESSED
FOLLOWING THE PROCEDURE LISTED IN STRUT
ASSEMBLY DISASSEMBLY IN THIS SECTION.

(1) Raise vehicle on jackstands or centered on a
frame contact type hoist. See Hoisting in Lubrication
and Maintenance.

(2) Remove front tire and wheel assembly from the
vehicle.

(3) Remove the stabilizer bar link nut at the strut
assembly. Remove the link from the strut assembly
(Fig. 55).

(4) Loosen, but do not remove, the outer tie rod
end to strut arm attaching nut (Fig. 56). Release
outer tie rod end from steering arm using Puller,
Special Tool C-3894A (Fig. 56), then remove nut and
tie rod from the steering arm.

2 - 24 FRONT SUSPENSION LH

STRUT (Continued)

Fig. 55 Stabilizer Bar Link At Strut

1 - OUTER TIE ROD
2 - NUT
3 - STABILIZER BAR ATTACHING LINK
4 - STRUT ASSEMBLY
5 - STEERING ARM
6 - NUT

Fig. 56 Removing Outer Tie Rod From Steering Arm

1 - TIE ROD END
2 - STEERING ARM
3 - SPECIAL TOOL
C-3894A
4 - STRUT

(5) If vehicle is equipped with antilock brakes,
remove the speed sensor cable routing bracket from
the strut assembly (Fig. 57).

Fig. 57 Speed Sensor Cable Routing Bracket

1 - STRUT ASSEMBLY
2 - ROUTING BRACKET
3 - SCREW
4 - SPEED SENSOR CABLE

(6) Remove the 2 guide pin bolts mounting the cal-

iper assembly to the steering knuckle (Fig. 58).

Fig. 58 Caliper Guide Pin Bolts

1 - BRAKE LINE
2 - CALIPER GUIDE PIN BOLTS
3 - STEERING KNUCKLE
4 - BLEEDER SCREW
5 - CALIPER ASSEMBLY

LH FRONT SUSPENSION 2 - 25

STRUT (Continued)

(7) Remove brake caliper assembly from steering
knuckle and brake rotor. Refer to the Brakes. Sup­port caliper assembly by hanging it from frame of
vehicle with wire or some other method (Fig. 59). Do
not let caliper assembly hang by brake hose.

Fig. 60 Strut To Steering Knuckle Attaching Bolts

1 - STRUT ASSEMBLY
2 - NUTS
3 - STRUT ASSEMBLY TO STEERING KNUCKLE ATTACHING
BOLTS
4 - STEERING KNUCKLE

Fig. 59 Caliper Supported

1 - WIRE HANGER
2 - FLEXIBLE BRAKE HOSE
3 - BRAKING DISC
4 - CALIPER ASSEMBLY
5 - STEERING KNUCKLE

(8) Remove brake rotor from hub.

CAUTION: The strut assembly to steering knuckle
bolts are serrated were they go through strut
assembly and steering knuckle. When removing
bolts, turn nuts off bolts DO NOT TURN BOLTS IN
STEERING KNUCKLE. If bolts are turned damage to
steering knuckle will result.

(9) Remove the 2 strut assembly to steering
knuckle attaching bolts (Fig. 60).

(10) Remove the 4 strut assembly upper mount to
strut tower mounting nut and washer assemblies
(Fig. 61).

(11) Remove the strut assembly from the vehicle.

(12) For disassembly of the strut assembly, refer to
Disassembly.

Fig. 61 Strut Assembly Mounting

1 - STRUT ASSEMBLY MOUNTING NUTS
2 - SHOCK TOWER
3 - STRUT MOUNT

DISASSEMBLY - STRUT ASSEMBLY (FRONT)

The Strut assembly must be removed from the
vehicle for it to be disassembled and assembled.
Refer to Removal in this section.

For the disassembly and assembly of the strut
assembly, use strut spring compressor, Pentastar Ser­vice Equipment (PSE) tool W-7200, or the equivalent,
to compress the coil spring. Follow the manufactur­er’s instructions closely.

2 - 26 FRONT SUSPENSION LH

STRUT (Continued)

WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE STRUT ASSEM­BLY’S SHAFT NUT AT ANY TIME UNLESS THE COIL
SPRING HAS BEEN PROPERLY COMPRESSED
FOLLOWING THE PROCEDURE LISTED HERE.

(1) If both struts are being serviced at the same
time, mark the coil spring and strut assembly accord­ing to which side of the vehicle the strut was
removed from, and which strut the coil spring was
removed from.

(2) Position the strut assembly in the strut coil
spring compressor following the manufacturers
instructions (Fig. 62). The strut clevis bracket should
be positioned outward. It will be necessary to turn
the strut assembly so the steering arm will clear the
compressor arm. Position the upper and lower hooks
on the coil spring, then place a clamp on the lower
end of the coil spring, so the strut is held in place
once the strut shaft nut is removed (Fig. 62).

(3) Compress the coil spring until all coil spring

tension is removed from the upper mount.

(4) Install Strut Nut Socket, Special Tool 6864, on
the strut shaft retaining nut (Fig. 63). Next, install a
socket on the hex on the end of the strut shaft. While
holding the strut shaft from turning, remove the nut
from the strut shaft.

Fig. 62 Strut Assembly In Compressor

1 - HOOKS
2 - STRUT ASSEMBLY
3 - CLAMP
4 - COIL SPRING

WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE STRUT SHAFT
NUT BEFORE THE COIL SPRING IS COMPRESSED.
THE COIL SPRING IS HELD UNDER PRESSURE
AND MUST BE COMPRESSED, REMOVING SPRING
TENSION FROM THE UPPER MOUNT AND PIVOT
BEARING, BEFORE THE SHAFT NUT IS REMOVED.

Fig. 63 Shaft Nut Removal/Installation

1 - SPRING COMPRESSOR
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 6864
3 - UPPER MOUNT

(5) Remove the upper mount from the strut shaft.

(6) Remove the clamp from the bottom of the coil
spring and remove the strut out through the bottom
of the coil spring.

NOTE: If the seat and bearing, upper spring isola­tor, dust boot, or coil spring need to be serviced,
proceed with the next step, otherwise, proceed with
step 9.

NOTE: Before removal of the seat and bearing from
the spring, note the flat on the inboard side of the
seat and bearing outer perimeter. This must align
with the inboard side of the strut (or rear of the cle­vis bracket) on reassembly. Also note the coil
spring ending at the stop built into the seat and
upper isolator.

(7) Remove the seat and bearing, upper spring iso­lator and dust shield as an assembly from the top of
the coil spring by pulling them straight up. They can
be separated once removed from the vehicle. The

LH FRONT SUSPENSION 2 - 27

STRUT (Continued)

jounce bumper cup may also come off when the
assembly is removed. Check inside the dust shield.

NOTE: Before releasing the tension on the coil
spring, note the position of the coil end on the
upper end of the coil spring. When reistalled, it
must be positioned in the same spot for proper
alignment of the seat and bearing, and the strut.

(8) Release the tension from the coil spring by
backing off the compressor drive fully. Push back the
compressor hooks and remove the coil spring.

(9) Remove the jounce bumper cup and jounce
bumper from the strut shaft by pulling each straight
up and off the strut shaft (Fig. 64). If the jounce
bumper cup is not present, check inside the dust
shield. It may have stayed inside the dust shield.

1 - LOWER SPRING ISOLATOR
2 - LOWER SPRING SEAT

• Inspect the jounce bumper for cracks and signs

of deterioration.

• Check the upper mount for cracks and distortion

and its retaining studs for any sign of damage.

• Check the upper seat and bearing for cracks and

distortion.

• Check for binding of the seat and bearing pivot

bearing.

• Inspect the dust shield for rips and deteriora-

tion.

• Inspect the upper and lower spring isolators for

material deterioration.

• Inspect the coil spring for any sign of damage to

the coating.

Fig. 65 Lower Spring Isolator

Fig. 64 Strut Assembly Components

1 - SEATAND BEARING
2 - DUST SHIELD
3 - CUP
4 - LOWER SPRING ISOLATOR
5 - STRUT
6 - JOUNCE BUMPER
7 - COIL SPRING
8 - UPPER SPRING ISOLATOR
9 - UPPER MOUNT

(10) Remove the lower spring isolator from the
lower spring seat on the strut (Fig. 65).

(11) Inspect the strut assembly components for the
following and replace as necessary:

• Inspect the strut for any condition of shaft bind-

ing over the full stroke of the shaft.

ASSEMBLY - STRUT ASSEMBLY (FRONT)

For the disassembly and assembly of the strut
assembly, use strut spring compressor, Pentastar Ser­vice Equipment (PSE) tool W-7200, or the equivalent,
to compress the coil spring. Follow the manufactur­er’s instructions closely.

NOTE: If the coil spring has been removed from the
spring compressor, proceed with the next step, oth­erwise, proceed with step 5.

(1) Place the coil spring in the compressor follow­ing the manufacturers instructions (Fig. 62). Before
compressing the spring, rotate the spring to the posi­tion noted in the note between steps 7 and 8.

(2) If disassembled, reinstall the upper spring iso­lator and dust shield on seat and bearing. Match the
step in the isolator with the step in the seat and
bearing.

(3) Install the seat and bearing (with dust shield
attached) on top of the coil spring. Position the step

2 - 28 FRONT SUSPENSION LH

STRUT (Continued)

built into the seat and upper spring isolator against
the coil end of the coil spring.

(4) Install the lower spring isolator on the lower
spring seat of the strut (Fig. 65). The tabs on the iso­lator will align it on the strut spring seat. They
straddle the expanded area of the lower spring seat
on the strut.

(5) Install the jounce bumper on the strut shaft.
The jounce bumper is to be installed with the smaller
end pointing downward toward the lower seat (Fig.

64).

(6) Install the jounce bumper cup (Fig. 64) on the
strut shaft. The cupped side goes on first.

(7) Install the strut through the bottom of the coil
spring until the lower spring seat contacts the lower
end of the coil spring. The inboard side of the strut
(or rear of the clevis bracket) should align with the
flat on the inboard side of the seat and bearing outer
perimeter. Install the clamp on the lower end of the
coil spring and strut, so the strut is held in place
(Fig. 62).

1 - NOTCH
2 - RUBBER TABS
3 - OUTBOARD STRUT COIL SPRING SEAT
4 - STEERING ARM

Fig. 66 Left

CAUTION: Before installing the upper mount, make
sure the correct upper mount is being installed on
the strut. DO NOT install a right mount on a left
front strut or a left mount on a right front strut.
Incorrect mount installation may cause poor vehicle
ride and steering feel, and excessive front end
noise. A lead or drift condition may also be the
result. Left and right mounts look similar, but are
different from one another. Looking down at the top
of the upper mount, 2 tabs can be seen, (Fig. 66)
and (Fig. 67), down inside the mount center well. A
rectangular hole can be seen on the edge of the
mount mounting surface (Fig. 66) and (Fig. 67). This
is always in the 10 o’clock position when observing
rubber tab positioning, whether a left or right mount
is being observed. Once this hole is located in the
10 o’clock position, the tabs should be in the posi­tions as shown (Fig. 66) and (Fig. 67). The right
upper mount should also have a white dot painted
on its mounting face.

(8) Install the strut upper mount over the strut
shaft and onto the top of the seat and bearing.
Loosely install the retaining nut on the strut shaft.

(9) Install Strut Nut Socket (on the end of a torque
wrench), Special Tool 6864, on the strut shaft retain­ing nut (Fig. 63). Next, install a socket on the hex on
the end of the strut shaft. While holding the strut
shaft from turning, tighten the strut shaft retaining
nut to a torque of 94 N·m (70 ft. lbs.).

(10) Slowly release the tension from the coil spring
by backing off the compressor drive fully. As the ten­sion is relieved, make sure the upper mount and seat
and bearing align properly. Verify the upper mount
does not bind.

Fig. 67 Right Front Strut Upper Mount

1 - NOTCH
2 - STEERING ARM
3 - OUTBOARD STRUT COIL SPRING SEAT
4 - RUBBER TABS

(11) Remove the clamp from the lower end of the
coil spring and strut. Push back the spring compres­sor upper and lower hooks, then remove the strut
assembly from the spring compressor.

(12) Install the strut assembly on the vehicle.
Refer to INSTALLATION in this section.

INSTALLATION - STRUT ASSEMBLY (FRONT)

(1) Install front strut assembly into shock tower.
Install the 4 strut assembly upper mount to shock
tower attaching nuts (Fig. 61). Tighten the 4 strut
mount to strut tower attaching nuts to a torque of 37
N·m (28 ft. lbs.) torque.

(2) Position steering knuckle into strut assembly.

LH FRONT SUSPENSION 2 - 29

STRUT (Continued)

CAUTION: The strut assembly to steering knuckle
bolts are serrated were they go through strut
assembly and steering knuckle. When installing
bolts, turn nuts onto bolts DO NOT TURN BOLTS IN
STEERING KNUCKLE. If bolts are turned damage to
steering knuckle will result.

(3) Install the strut assembly to steering knuckle
attaching bolts (Fig. 60). Install nuts on attaching
bolts. Tighten the strut assembly clevis to steering
knuckle attaching bolt nuts to a torque of 203 N·m
(150 ft. lbs.).

(4) Install braking disc back on front hub and
bearing assembly. Install front brake caliper assem­bly on steering knuckle. Install the 2 caliper assem­bly to steering knuckle attaching bolts (Fig. 58).
Tighten the caliper assembly guide pin bolts to a
torque of 19 N·m (192 in. lbs.).

(5) If the vehicle is equipped with antilock brakes.
Install the front speed sensor cable routing bracket
onto the front strut assembly (Fig. 57).

(6) Install outer tie rod on strut assembly. Install
tie rod attaching nut. Tighten the tie rod attaching
nut to a torque of 37 N·m (27 ft. lbs.).

(7) Install stabilizer bar link on strut (Fig. 55).
Tighten the stabilizer link attaching nut to a torque
of 95 N·m (70 ft. lbs.).

(8) Install the wheel and tire assembly.

(9) Tighten the wheel mounting nuts in proper
sequence until all nuts are torqued to half specifica­tion. Then repeat the tightening sequence to the full
specified torque of 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.).

(10) Lower vehicle.

REMOVAL - TENSION STRUT

The tension strut is removed from the vehicle with
the lower control arm, then separated. (Refer to 2 ­SUSPENSION/FRONT/LOWER CONTROL ARM ­REMOVAL)

INSTALLATION - TENSION STRUT

The tension strut is attached to the lower control
arm, then the two are installed together. (Refer to 2 ­SUSPENSION/FRONT/LOWER CONTROL ARM ­INSTALLATION)

TENSION STRUT CRADLE
BUSHING

REMOVAL - TENSION STRUT CRADLE
BUSHING

(1) Remove lower control arm and tension strut as
an assembly from the vehicle. (Refer to 2 - SUSPEN­SION/FRONT/LOWER CONTROL ARM ­REMOVAL)

(2) Remove the tension strut cradle bushing halve
and sleeve from the tension strut (Fig. 68).

TENSION STRUT

DESCRIPTION

This vehicle uses a steel tension strut on each side
of the vehicle’s front suspension, between the lower
control arm and front suspension cradle/crossmember
(Fig. 1). The strut has rubber isolator bushings,
retainer washers and nuts at each end where it
mounts.

OPERATION

The tension strut controls longitudinal (fore-and­aft) movement of each front wheel and the front sus­pension. Controlling the longitudinal movement helps
reduce harshness when the wheel hits sudden irreg­ularities in the road surface.

The tension strut’s rubber isolator bushings isolate
suspension noise from the body of the vehicle.

Fig. 68 Bushing Installed On Tension Strut

1 - TENSION STRUT TO CRADLE BUSHING
2 - RETAINING WASHER
3 - LOWER CONTROL ARM
4 - TENSION STRUT
5 - RETAINING WASHERS
6 - TENSION STRUT TO LOWER CONTROL ARM BUSHING
7 - NUT

2 - 30 FRONT SUSPENSION LH

TENSION STRUT CRADLE BUSHING (Continued)

(3) Remove the remaining tension strut cradle
bushing halve from the engine cradle assembly (Fig.

69).

Fig. 69 Bushing In Cradle

1 - CRADLE ISOLATOR BUSHING
2 - CRADLE
3 - TENSION STRUT TO CRADLE ISOLATOR BUSHING

INSTALLATION - TENSION STRUT CRADLE
BUSHING

(1) Install tension strut cradle isolator bushing
halve into front side of cradle mounting hole, until
squarely seated against cradle (Fig. 69).

(2) Install isolator bushing halve on tension strut
until it is seated against retaining washer as shown
(Fig. 68).

(3) Reinstall the tension strut and lower control
arm as an assembly back in the vehicle. (Refer to 2 ­SUSPENSION/FRONT/LOWER CONTROL ARM ­INSTALLATION)

LH REAR SUSPENSION 2 - 31

REAR SUSPENSION

TABLE OF CONTENTS

page page

REAR SUSPENSION

DESCRIPTION - REAR SUSPENSION .......31

OPERATION - REAR SUSPENSION .........31

CAUTION .............................31

SPECIFICATIONS

REAR SUSPENSION FASTENER TORQUE . . 33

SPECIAL TOOLS

REAR SUSPENSION ...................33

HUB / BEARING

DESCRIPTION .........................33

OPERATION ...........................33

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HUB AND

BEARING (REAR) .....................33

REMOVAL - HUB AND BEARING (REAR) .....33

INSTALLATION - HUB AND BEARING (REAR) . 34

LATERAL LINK

DESCRIPTION .........................34

OPERATION ...........................34

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - LATERAL LINKS . 34

REMOVAL - LATERAL LINKS ..............35

INSTALLATION - LATERAL LINKS ...........36

SPINDLE

DESCRIPTION .........................37

OPERATION ...........................37

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SPINDLE .......37

REMOVAL - SPINDLE ....................37

INSTALLATION - SPINDLE ................39

STABILIZER BAR

DESCRIPTION .........................40

OPERATION ...........................40

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - STABILIZER BAR

(REAR) .............................40

REMOVAL - STABILIZER BAR (REAR) .......40

INSTALLATION - STABILIZER BAR (REAR) ....41

STRUT

DESCRIPTION - STRUT ASSEMBLY (REAR) . . 42

OPERATION - STRUT ASSEMBLY (REAR) ....42

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - STRUT

ASSEMBLY (REAR) ....................42

REMOVAL - STRUT ASSEMBLY (REAR) ......43

DISASSEMBLY - STRUT ASSEMBLY (REAR) . . 45

ASSEMBLY - STRUT ASSEMBLY (REAR) .....46

INSTALLATION - STRUTASSEMBLY (REAR) . . 47

TRAILING ARM/LINK

DESCRIPTION - TRAILING ARM ............47

OPERATION - TRAILING ARM .............47

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - TRAILING ARM . . 47

REMOVAL - TRAILING ARM ...............48

INSTALLATION - TRAILING ARM ...........48

REAR SUSPENSION

DESCRIPTION - REAR SUSPENSION

The rear suspension used on this vehicle is a fully

independent rear suspension (Fig. 1).

Each side of the rear suspension consists of these

major components:

• Strut assembly

• Spindle

• Hub and bearing

• Two lateral links

• Trailing arm

• Stabilizer bar

OPERATION - REAR SUSPENSION

The rear suspension allows each rear wheel on the
vehicle to adapt to different road surfaces and condi­tions without affecting the control of the vehicle.
Each side of the suspension is allowed to move inde­pendently from the other.

CAUTION

CAUTION: Only frame contact or wheel lift hoisting
equipment can be used on vehicles having a fully
independent rear suspension. Vehicles with inde­pendent rear suspension can not be hoisted using
equipment designed to lift a vehicle by the rear
axle. If this type of hoisting equipment is used dam­age to rear suspension components will occur.

2 - 32 REAR SUSPENSION LH

REAR SUSPENSION (Continued)

Fig. 1 Rear Suspension

1 - STRUT ASSEMBLY
2 - REAR SUSPENSION CROSSMEMBER
3 - REAR SUSPENSION CROSSMEMBER BUSHING
4 - LATERAL LINKS

CAUTION: If the vehicle is equipped with the Tire
Pressure Monitoring (TPM) System, the tire/wheel
assembly needs to be reinstalled in the same loca­tion it is removed from or the TPM System (sen­sors) will need to be retrained. Mark each tire/wheel
assembly indicating location, prior to its removal. If
the tire/wheel assemblies are switched, rotated or
replaced, the TPM System needs to be retrained.
(Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS/TIRE PRESSURE
MONITORING/SENSOR - STANDARD PROCEDURE)

5 - HUB AND BEARING
6 - STABILIZER BAR
7 - TRAILING ARM
8 - SPINDLE

CAUTION: If a rear suspension component
becomes bent, damaged or fails, no attempt should
be made to straighten or repair it. Always replace
with a new component.

LH REAR SUSPENSION 2 - 33

REAR SUSPENSION (Continued)

SPECIFICATIONS

REAR SUSPENSION FASTENER TORQUE

DESCRIPTION N·m

Hub And Bearing Spindle
Retaining Nut

Lateral Link Jam Nut 88 65 —
Lateral Link Spindle Nut 135 100 —
Lateral Link Crossmember

Nut
Spindle Brake Hose Bracket

Bolt
Spindle Caliper Adapter

Bolts
Spindle Mounting Bolts 109 80 —
Spindle-To-Strut Pinch Bolt 53 40 —
Stabilizer Bar Bushing

Retainer Bolts
Stabilizer Bar Link Lower

Nut
Stabilizer Bar Link Upper

Nut
Strut Body Tower Mounting

Nuts
Strut Shaft Nut 75 55 —
Suspension Crossmember

Mounting Bolts
Trailing Arm Attaching Nuts 100 75 —
Trailing Arm Bracket-To-

Body Bolts
Trailing Arm Bracket-To-

Spindle Bolts
Wheel Mounting (Lug) Nuts 135 100 —

168 124 —

95 70 —

23 17 204

115 85 —

40 30 —

95 70 —

23 17 204

25 19 220

100 75 —

60 45 —

110 81 —

Ft.

Lbs.

SPECIAL TOOLS

In.

Lbs.

HUB / BEARING

DESCRIPTION

The rear wheel bearing and rear wheel hub of this
vehicle are a one piece sealed unit or hub and bear­ing unit type assembly. The hub and bearing is
mounted to the center of the spindle using a retain­ing nut (Fig. 1). It has five wheel mounting studs on
the hub flange.

The wheel mounting studs used to mount the tire
and wheel to the vehicle are the only replaceable
components of the hub and bearing assembly. Other­wise, the hub and bearing is serviced only as a com­plete assembly.

CAUTION: If a vehicle is equipped with antilock
brakes, the tone wheel for the rear wheel speed
sensor is pressed onto the hub and bearing.

OPERATION

The hub and bearing has internal bearings that
allow the hub to rotate with the tire and wheel. The
five wheel mounting studs mount the tire and wheel,
and disc brake rotor to the vehicle.

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HUB AND
BEARING (REAR)

The rear hub and bearing assembly is designed for
the life of the vehicle and should require no mainte­nance. The following procedure may be used for eval­uation of bearing condition.

With wheel and brake drum removed, rotate
flanged outer ring of hub. Excessive roughness, lat­eral play or resistance to rotation may indicate dirt
intrusion or bearing failure. If the rear wheel bear­ings exhibit these conditions during inspection, the
hub and bearing assembly should be replaced.

Damaged bearing seals and resulting excessive
grease loss may also require bearing replacement.
Moderate grease loss from bearing is considered nor­mal and should not require replacement of the hub
and bearing assembly.

REAR SUSPENSION

Socket Strut Shaft Nut 6864

REMOVAL - HUB AND BEARING (REAR)

(1) Raise vehicle on jackstands or centered on a
frame contact hoist. See Hoisting in Lubrication and
Maintenance.

(2) Remove the rear wheel and tire assembly from
the vehicle.

(3) Remove the rear caliper assembly from the
adapter. Refer to Disc Brake Caliper in Brakes. After
removing caliper assembly, store caliper by hanging
it from frame of vehicle (Fig. 2). Do not let weight of
rear caliper assembly hang from flexible brake hose.

(4) Remove rear brake rotor from hub.

2 - 34 REAR SUSPENSION LH

HUB / BEARING (Continued)

INSTALLATION - HUB AND BEARING (REAR)

(1) Install the rear hub and bearing assembly on
the rear spindle. Install hub and bearing assembly
retaining washer and nut on spindle (Fig. 3). Tighten
the hub and bearing retaining nut to a torque of 168
N·m (124 ft. lbs.). Install the nut retainer and cotter
pin.

(2) Install the rear brake rotor on the hub.

(3) Carefully place rear brake caliper over rotor
and install on adapter. Refer to Disc Brake Caliper in
Brakes.

(4) Install wheel and tire assembly on vehicle.
Tighten the wheel mounting stud nuts in proper
sequence until all nuts are torqued to half specifica­tion. Then repeat the tightening sequence to the full
specified torque of 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.).

(5) Lower vehicle to the ground.

LATERAL LINK

Fig. 2 Storing Caliper

1 - FLEX HOSE
2 - STRUT
3 - WIRE HANGER
4 - CALIPER ASSEMBLY

(5) Remove rear hub and bearing assembly cotter
pin and nut retainer (Fig. 3). Remove the hub and
bearing retaining nut and washer from the spindle
(Fig. 3). Remove hub and bearing assembly from
spindle.

Fig. 3 Hub And Bearing Retaining Nut and Washer

1 - HUB RETAINING NUT
2 - NUT RETAINER
3 - COTTER PIN
4 - SPINDLE

DESCRIPTION

There are two tubular lateral links on each side of
the rear suspension (Fig. 1). The lateral links have
rubber isolator bushings at each end. They are
attached to the rear suspension crossmember, and
the spindle using a bolt and nut assembly at each
end. The rear lateral link incorporates a threaded
wheel alignment toe adjustment sleeve.

OPERATION

The lateral movement of the rear spindle is con­trolled by the lateral links connecting the front and
rear centerline of the spindle to the rear suspension
crossmember. The threaded adjustment sleeve of the
rear link allows for setting rear wheel alignment toe
adjustment.

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - LATERAL LINKS

Inspect the lateral link isolator bushings and
sleeves for signs of damage or deterioration. If the
lateral link isolator bushings or sleeves are damaged
or are deteriorated, replacement of the lateral link
assembly will be required. The isolator bushings are
not serviceable as a separate component of the lat­eral link assembly.

Inspect the lateral links for signs of contact with
the ground or road debris which has bent or caused
other damage to the lateral link assembly. If the lat­eral link is bent or damaged, the lateral link will
require replacement. Do not attempt to repair or

straighten a lateral link.

LH REAR SUSPENSION 2 - 35

LATERAL LINK (Continued)

REMOVAL - LATERAL LINKS

The left forward lateral link requires a more
involved removal and installation procedure in order
to remove the attaching bolt at the crossmember. See
separate procedures below for the proper lateral link
service procedure.

LEFT FORWARD LATERAL LINK

(1) Raise vehicle on jackstands or centered on a
frame contact hoist. See Hoisting in Lubrication and
Maintenance.

(2) Remove left rear wheel and tire assembly from
the vehicle.

(3) Remove the nut and bolt attaching the left lat­eral links to the spindle (Fig. 4).

Fig. 5 Lateral Link Attachment To Crossmember

1 - CROSSMEMBER
2 - EXHAUST MUFFLER
3 - ATTACHING BOLT
4 - LEFT FORWARD LATERAL LINK

Fig. 4 Lateral Link Attachment To Spindle

1 - SPINDLE
2 - LATERAL LINKS
3 - LATERAL LINK ATTACHING BOLT HEAD
4 - STRUT ASSEMBLY
5 - STABILIZER BAR ATTACHING LINK
6 - BRAKE CALIPER
7 - LATERAL LINK ATTACHING BOLT NUT

(4) Remove the nut attaching the left forward lat­eral link to the rear suspension crossmember. The

bolt for the left front lateral link may not be
removed at this time. Remove the nut only.
Once the crossmember is lowered, the bolt can
be easily removed. Notice the forward link attach-

ing bolt faces rearward.

CAUTION: The bolts attaching the forward lateral
links to the crossmember must be installed with the
bolts pointing rearward (Fig. 5)to prevent damage to
the fuel tank and or fuel tubes. Also, the left rear
lateral arm attaching bolt to the crossmember is to
be installed pointing forward to prevent possible
damage to the fuel filler tube.

(5) Remove the screw securing the brake tubes to

the left stabilizer bar isolator bushing retainer.

(6) Remove the 4 bolts attaching both stabilizer
bar isolator bushing retainers to the frame rails (the
2 rearward attaching bolts also attach the front cor­ners of the rear suspension crossmember in place).
Allow the stabilizer bar to hang down out of the way.

(7) Remove the screw securing the fuel filler neck
to the left frame rail.

(8) Position a transmission jack under the fuel
tank.

(9) Remove the attaching bolts securing both fuel
tank mounting straps. First, remove the right , then
the left attaching bolt. Allow the straps to hang
down.

(10) Lower the transmission jack and fuel tank
just enough to allow for removal of the lateral link
attaching bolt at the crossmember.

(11) Remove the left forward lateral link from the
crossmember.

LEFT REAR AND BOTH RIGHT LATERAL LINKS

(1) Raise vehicle on jackstands or centered on a
frame contact hoist. See Hoisting in Lubrication and
Maintenance.

(2) Remove rear wheel and tire assembly from the
vehicle.

(3) Remove the nut and bolt attaching the left lat­eral links to the spindle (Fig. 4).

(4) Remove the nut and bolt attaching the lateral
link to the rear suspension crossmember. Note the
direction in which the lateral arm attaching bolt is
installed.

2 - 36 REAR SUSPENSION LH

LATERAL LINK (Continued)

CAUTION: The bolts attaching the forward lateral
links to the crossmember must be installed with the
bolts pointing rearward (Fig. 5) to prevent damage
to the fuel tank and or fuel tubes. Also, the left rear
lateral arm attaching bolt to the crossmember is to
be installed pointing forward to prevent possible
damage to the fuel filler tube.

(5) Remove the lateral link from the crossmember.

INSTALLATION - LATERAL LINKS

The left forward lateral link requires a more
involved removal and installation procedure in order
to remove the attaching bolt at the crossmember. See
separate procedures below for the proper lateral link
service procedure.

LEFT FORWARD LATERAL LINK

CAUTION: The bolts attaching the forward lateral
links to the crossmember must be installed with the
bolts pointing rearward (Fig. 5)to prevent damage to
the fuel tank and or fuel tubes. Also, the left rear
lateral arm attaching bolt to the crossmember is to
be installed pointing forward to prevent possible
damage to the fuel filler tube.

(1) Attach the left forward lateral link to cross­member. Install mounting bolt through the front of
the crossmember mount towards the rear. Install the
lateral link attaching nut, but DO NOT fully tighten
at this time.

CAUTION: Tightening the lateral link attaching bolt
at this point will cause the bushing to contort when
the vehicle is at curb riding height, thus contribut­ing to premature failure of the lateral link bushings.

(2) Raise the fuel tank up into mounting position.

(3) Reattach the fuel tank straps, securing the fuel
tank in place.

(4) Remove transmission jack supporting the fuel
tank.

(5) Reinstall the fuel filler neck attaching screw
and secure the fuel filler neck to the left frame rail.

(6) Install the 4 bolts attaching both stabilizer bar
isolator bushing retainers to the frame rails (the 2
rearward attaching bolts attach the front corners of
the rear suspension crossmember in place). Tighten
the forward stabilizer bar isolator bushing retainer
attaching bolts to 40 N·m (30 ft. lbs.). Tighten the 2
rearward stabilizer bar isolator bushing retainer
attaching bolts (which also serve as the front cross­member attaching bolts) to 100 N·m (75 ft. lbs.).

(7) Install the screw securing the brake tubes to
the left stabilizer bar isolator bushing retainer.

(8) Install the lateral links on the spindle. Install,
but DO NOT fully tighten the attaching bolt and nut
at this time (Fig. 4).

CAUTION: Tightening the lateral link attaching bolt
at this point will cause the bushing to contort when
the vehicle is at curb riding height, thus contribut­ing to premature failure of the lateral link bushings.

(9) Install rear wheel and tire assembly on vehicle.

(10) Tighten the wheel mounting stud nuts in
proper sequence until all nuts are torqued to half
specification. Then repeat the tightening sequence to
the full specified torque of 129 N·m (95 ft. lbs.).

(11) Lower vehicle to the ground.

(12) Tighten lateral arm to crossmmember attach­ing bolt 95 N·m (70 ft. lbs.).

(13) Tighten lateral arm to spindle attaching bolt
135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.).

(14) Check and reset rear wheel toe to specifica­tions if required.

LEFT REAR AND BOTH RIGHT LATERAL LINKS

(1) Attach the lateral link to crossmember. Rear
lateral link attachment bolts should be installed from
the rear and point forward. Forward lateral link
attachment bolts should be installed from the front
and point rearward.

CAUTION: The bolts attaching the forward lateral
links to the crossmember must be installed with the
bolts pointing rearward (Fig. 5) to prevent damage
to the fuel tank and or fuel tubes. Also, the left rear
lateral arm attaching bolt to the crossmember is to
be installed pointing forward to prevent possible
damage to the fuel filler tube.

(2) Install the attaching nut, but DO NOT tighten
at this time.

CAUTION: Tightening the lateral link attaching bolt
at this point will cause the bushing to contort when
the vehicle is at curb riding height, thus contribut­ing to premature failure of the lateral link bushings.

(3) Install the lateral links on the spindle. Install,
but DO NOT fully tighten the attaching bolt and nut
at this time (Fig. 4).

(4) Install rear wheel and tire assembly on vehicle.

(5) Tighten the wheel mounting stud nuts in
proper sequence until all nuts are torqued to half
specification. Then repeat the tightening sequence to
the full specified torque of 129 N·m (95 ft. lbs.).

(6) Lower vehicle to the ground.

(7) Tighten lateral arm to crossmember attaching
bolt and nut to 95 N·m (70 ft. lbs.).

LH REAR SUSPENSION 2 - 37

LATERAL LINK (Continued)

(8) Tighten lateral arm to spindle attaching bolt

and nut to 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.).

(9) Check and reset rear wheel toe to specifications

if required.

SPINDLE

DESCRIPTION

A forged rear spindle is mounted to each side of
the rear suspension (Fig. 1). The top attaches to the
rear strut assembly. Two lateral links leading from
the rear suspension crossmember are mounted to the
forward and rearward ends of the spindle centerline.
A trailing arm leading from the frame rail connects
to the bottom of the spindle.

OPERATION

The spindle moves up and down with the tire and
wheel under jounce and rebound conditions. The lat­eral links control lateral movement of the spindle
while the trailing arm controls fore-and-aft move­ment.

The spindle acts as a mount for the rear hub and
bearing, tire and wheel, and rear brakes.

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SPINDLE

The rear suspension spindle is not a repairable
component of the rear suspension, If it is determined
that the spindle is broken or bent when servicing the
vehicle, no attempt is to be made to repair or to
straighten the spindle.THE SPINDLE MUST BE

REPLACED IF FOUND TO BE DAMAGED IN
ANY WAY.

1 - FLEX HOSE
2 - STRUT
3 - WIRE HANGER
4 - CALIPER ASSEMBLY

(5) Remove rear hub and bearing assembly cotter
pin and nut retainer (Fig. 7). Remove the hub and
bearing retaining nut and washer from the spindle
(Fig. 7). Then remove hub and bearing assembly from
spindle.

Fig. 6 Storing Caliper

REMOVAL - SPINDLE

(1) Raise vehicle on jackstands or centered on a
frame contact type hoist. See Hoisting in Lubrication
and Maintenance.

(2) Remove the rear wheel and tire assembly from
the vehicle.

(3) Remove the rear caliper assembly from the
adapter. Refer to Brakes/Disc Brake Caliper. After
removing caliper assembly store caliper by hanging it
from frame of vehicle (Fig. 6). Do not let weight of
rear caliper assembly hang from flexible brake hose.
If vehicle is equipped with rear drum brakes, remove
the brake flex hose bracket from the support plate
and wheel cylinder.

(4) Remove rear braking disc from hub.

Fig. 7 Hub And Bearing Retaining Nut and Washer

1 - HUB RETAINING NUT
2 - NUT RETAINER
3 - COTTER PIN
4 - SPINDLE

2 - 38 REAR SUSPENSION LH

SPINDLE (Continued)

(6) If vehicle is equipped with antilock brakes,
remove the speed sensor head from the rear disc
brake adapter (Fig. 8).

Fig. 10 Trailing Arm To Bracket Bolt

1 - SPINDLE
2 - TRAILING ARM BRACKET

Fig. 8 Speed Sensor Head

1 - STABILIZER BAR LINK
2 - STABILIZER BAR
3 - LATERAL LINK
4 - BOLT
5 - WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
6 - STRUT ASSEMBLY
7 - NUT

3 - TRAILING ARM
4 - BOLT

(7) Remove the 4 bolts attaching the disc brake
adapter to the rear spindle (Fig. 9). Then remove the
adapter, disc shield, park brake shoes and park
brake cable as an assembly from the spindle.

Fig. 9 Disc Brake Adapter Mounting

1 - PARK BRAKE SHOES
2 - ADAPTER MOUNTING BOLTS
3 - SPINDLE
4 - ADAPTER
5 - DISC SHIELD

(8) Remove the bolt attaching the trailing arm to
the bracket on the bottom of the spindle (Fig. 10).

(9) Remove the bolt (Fig. 11) attaching the lateral
links to the spindle.

Fig. 11 Lateral Links To Spindle Attaching Bolt

1 - REAR LATERAL LINK
2 - LATERAL LINKS ATTACHING BOLT
3 - FRONT LATERAL LINK
4 - SPINDLE

(10) Remove the pinch bolt from the spindle (Fig.

12).

CAUTION: When inserting center punch into rear
spindle, use care so point of center punch does not
puncture strut assembly.

(11) Insert a center punch into the hole on the
spindle (Fig. 13). Center punch must be tapped into
the hole in the spindle until jammed into place. This
will spread the spindle casting allowing it to be
removed from strut assembly.

LH REAR SUSPENSION 2 - 39

SPINDLE (Continued)

Fig. 12 Spindle Pinch Bolt

1 - PINCH BOLT
2 - STRUT ASSEMBLY
3 - REAR SPINDLE

Fig. 13 Center Punch Inserted In Spindle

1 - LATERAL LINK
2 - STRUT ASSEMBLY
3 - CENTER PUNCH
4 - HOLE
5 - SPINDLE

(12) Using a hammer and a brass drift punch, tap
on top surface of spindle (Fig. 14), driving it off the
end of the strut assembly.

INSTALLATION - SPINDLE

(1) Install the spindle on the strut assembly. Push
or tap spindle assembly onto strut until notch in
spindle is tightly seated against locating tap on strut
assembly (Fig. 12). Then remove center punch from
hole in spindle. Install the pinch bolt in the spindle
(Fig. 12). Tighten the pinch bolt to a torque of 53
N·m (40 ft. lbs.).

Fig. 14 Removing Spindle From Strut

1 - BRASS DRIFT PUNCH
2 - STRUT ASSEMBLY
3 - SPINDLE
4 - CENTER PUNCH
5 - HIT SPINDLE HERE
6 - LATERAL LINK

(2) Install the lateral links on the spindle (Fig. 11).
Install, but do not fully tighten attaching bolt at this
time.

(3) Install bolt attaching trailing arm to trailing
arm bracket on bottom of spindle (Fig. 10). Do not
fully tighten attaching bolt at this time.

(4) Install the disc brake adapter back on the spin­dle. Install the 4 bolts attaching the disc brake
adapter to the rear spindle (Fig. 9). Tighten the disc
brake adapter mounting bolts to a torque of 115 N·m
(85 ft. lbs.).

(5) If vehicle is equipped with antilock brakes,
install the speed sensor head into the rear disc brake
adapter (Fig. 8). Tighten the speed sensor head
attaching bolt to a torque of 7 N·m (60 in. lbs.).

(6) Install the rear hub and bearing assembly on
the rear spindle. Install hub and bearing assembly
retaining washer and nut on spindle (Fig. 7). Tighten
the hub and bearing retaining nut to a torque of 168
N·m (124 ft. lbs.).

(7) Install the rear brake disc on the hub.

(8) Carefully place rear brake caliper over rotor
and install on adapter. Tighten the caliper assembly
to adapter mounting bolts to a torque of 22 N·m (192
in. lbs.). Refer to Rear Disc Brakes in Group 5
Brakes in this service manual for required caliper
installation procedure.

(9) Install wheel and tire assembly on vehicle.
Tighten the wheel mounting stud nuts in proper
sequence until all nuts are torqued to half specifica­tion. Then repeat the tightening sequence to the full
specified torque of 129 N·m (95 ft. lbs.).

(10) Lower vehicle to the ground.

2 - 40 REAR SUSPENSION LH

SPINDLE (Continued)

(11) Tighten the lateral links to spindle attaching

bolt to a torque of 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.).

(12) Tighten the trailing arm to spindle bracket

attaching bolt to a torque of 100 N·m (75 ft. lbs.).

(13) Check and reset rear wheel toe to specifica-

tions if required. Refer to Wheel Alignment.

STABILIZER BAR

DESCRIPTION

The stabilizer bar interconnects both rear strut
assemblies and is attached to the rear frame rails of
the vehicle (Fig. 1).

Attachment of the stabilizer bar to the rear frame
rails of the vehicle is through 2 rubber-isolator bush­ings and bushing retainers. Stabilizer bar to strut
assembly attachment is done utilizing a rubber-iso­lated stabilizer bar attaching link. All parts of the
stabilizer bar are replaceable as individual compo­nents.

The stabilizer bar to frame rail bushings are slit
for easy removal and installation. The slit must be
positioned toward the front of the vehicle when the
stabilizer bar is installed.

bar (Fig. 15). Remove the link from the stabilizer bar.
Repeat this procedure on the other side of the vehicle
for the other attaching link.

Fig. 15 Link Attachment To Stabilizer Bar

1 - STABILIZER BAR ATTACHING LINK
2 - LINK STUD
3 - STABILIZER BAR
4 - WRENCHES
5 - BRAKE CALIPER
6 - STRUT ASSEMBLY

OPERATION

Jounce and rebound movements affecting one
wheel are partially transmitted to the opposite wheel
of the vehicle through the stabilizer bar. This helps
to minimize the body roll of the vehicle during sus­pension movement.

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - STABILIZER BAR
(REAR)

Inspect the stabilizer bar for damage or bending.
Inspect for broken or distorted stabilizer bar bush­ings, bushing retainers, and worn or damaged stabi­lizer bar to strut attaching links. Verify all fastener
bolts are properly tightened.

Inspect the bushings and sleeves on the stabilizer
bar links for damage or deterioration. Inspect the
links lower ball stud for excessive looseness and
damage. Inspect the stabilizer bar link to ensure it is
not bent or broken. If any of these conditions are
present when inspecting the links, replace the stabi­lizer bar links as required.

REMOVAL - STABILIZER BAR (REAR)

(1) Raise vehicle on jack stands or centered on a
frame contact hoist. See Hoisting in Lubrication and
Maintenance.

(2) Install a thin wrench on the hex of the attach­ing link stud to keep the stud from turning in the
link. Next, remove the nut from the stabilizer bar to
strut assembly attaching link stud at the stabilizer

(3) Remove the screw securing the brake tubes to

the left stabilizer bar isolator bushing retainer (Fig.

16).

Fig. 16 Bushing Retainer Attachment

1 - BRAKE TUBE ROUTING BRACKET SCREW
2 - BUSHING RETAINERATTACHING BOLTS
3 - REAR CROSSMEMBER
4 - LEFT FORWARD LATERAL LINK
5 - STABILIZER BAR
6 - BUSHING RETAINERASSEMBLY

(4) Remove the 2 bolts attaching each of the 2 sta­bilizer bar isolator bushing retainers to the frame
rails (Fig. 16) (the 2 rearward attaching bolts also
attach the front corners of the rear suspension cross-

LH REAR SUSPENSION 2 - 41

STABILIZER BAR (Continued)

member in place). Remove the stabilizer bar from the
vehicle.

(5) Mount the stabilizer bar in a soft jawed vise
with one of the two bushings mount just above the
vise jaws.

(6) Carefully pry back the retainer tabs on the
wider end of the upper bushing retainer away from
the lower half.

(7) Using a hammer and a brass drift punch, tap
the upper half of the bushing retainer assembly for­ward, off of the lower half and bushing (Fig. 17).

Fig. 17 Bushing Retainer Removal

1 - STABILIZER BAR
2 - UPPER RETAINER HALF
3 - BRASS DRIFT PUNCH
4 - RELEASED RETAINER TABS
5 - LOWER RETAINER HALF
6 - SOFT JAWED VISE

(8) Remove the lower half of the bushing retainer
from the bushing.

(9) Remove the bushing from the stabilizer bar.

Make note that the slit in the bushing points
toward the front of the vehicle.

(10) Remove the stabilizer bar from the vise, and
repeat the preceding 5 steps to remove the second
bushing from the other side of the stabilizer bar.

INSTALLATION - STABILIZER BAR (REAR)

NOTE: Inspect the bushings and retainers for
cracks and distortion. If any signs appear, these
pieces should be replaced.

(1) Install the bushings onto the stabilizer bar.

Make sure that the slit in the bushing points
toward the front of the vehicle.

(2) Mount the stabilizer bar in the soft jawed vise
with the bushing just above the top of the vise jaws.

(3) Install the lower half of the retainer onto the
bushing with the elongated mounting hole towards
the front of the vehicle.

(4) Install the upper half of the retainer onto the
lower half. This is done by tapping the upper half,
starting with the large end, onto the lower half with
a hammer and brass drift punch (Fig. 18). Tap the
upper retainer half on until the mounting holes line
up with the ones in the lower half.

Fig. 18 Bushing Retainer Installation

1 - RETAINER TABS
2 - LOWER RETAINER HALF
3 - STABILIZER BAR
4 - RETAINER TABS
5 - ELONGATED MOUNTING HOLE
6 - SOFT JAWED VISE
7 - UPPER RETAINER HALF
8 - BRASS DRIFT PUNCH

(5) Using a pair of pliers, bend the retainer tabs
on the upper retainer half around the lower retainer
half, securing the two halves together.

(6) Remove the stabilizer bar from the vise, and
repeat the preceding 5 steps to install the second
bushing and retainer on the other side of the stabi­lizer bar.

(7) Position the rear stabilizer bar in position
between the frame rails. Install the 4 bolts attaching
both stabilizer bar isolator bushing retainers to the
frame rails (Fig. 16) (the 2 rearward attaching bolts
attach the front corners of the rear suspension cross­member in place). Tighten the forward stabilizer bar
isolator bushing retainer attaching bolts to 40 N·m
(30 ft. lbs.). Tighten the 2 rearward stabilizer bar iso­lator bushing retainer attaching bolts (which also
serve as the forward rear crossmember attaching
bolts) to 100 N·m (75 ft. lbs.).

(8) Install the screw securing the brake tubes to
the left stabilizer bar isolator bushing retainer (Fig.

16).

(9) Install both stabilizer bar attaching links onto
stabilizer bar (Fig. 15). Install both stabilizer link to
stabilizer bar attaching nuts (Fig. 15). Tighten the
stabilizer link to stabilizer bar attaching nuts to a
torque of 95 N·m (70 ft. lbs.) using a crow foot

2 - 42 REAR SUSPENSION LH

STABILIZER BAR (Continued)

wrench and torque wrench in place of the wrench on
the attaching nut.Be sure to use a wrench to hold

the link stud in place while tightening each
attaching nut.

(10) Lower vehicle to the ground.

STRUT

DESCRIPTION - STRUT ASSEMBLY (REAR)

The rear strut assemblies support the weight of
the vehicle using coil springs positioned around the
struts (Fig. 1). The coil springs are contained
between the upper mount of the strut assembly and
a lower spring seat on the body of the strut assembly.

The top of each strut assembly is bolted to the top
of the inner fender through the rubber isolated upper
mount.

The bottom of the strut assembly attaches to the
spindle. Strut attachment to the spindle is accom­plished using a split collar on the rear spindle. The
collar uses a pinch bolt to retain the spindle to the
strut.

The rear coil springs are rated separately for each
corner or side of the vehicle depending on optional
equipment and type of vehicle service. Coil springs
come in a various rates; be sure the correct spring is
in use.

The components of the strut assembly listed below
are serviceable if found to be defective (Fig. 19).

• Strut shaft retainer nut

• Upper mount

• Dust shield

• Jounce bumper

• Coil spring

• Upper spring isolator

• Lower spring isolator

• Strut (damper)

OPERATION - STRUT ASSEMBLY (REAR)

The rear strut assemblies support the weight of
the vehicle. They cushion the ride of the vehicle, con­trolling vibration, jounce and rebound of the suspen­sion.

The coil spring controls ride quality and maintains
ride height.

The jounce bumper limits suspension travel and
metal-to-metal contact under full jounce.

The strut dampens jounce and rebound motions of
the coil spring and suspension.

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - STRUT ASSEMBLY
(REAR)

(1) Inspect for damaged or broken coil springs
(Fig. 19).

1 - UPPER STRUT MOUNT
2 - UPPER SPRING ISOLATOR
3 - DUST BOOT
4 - LOWER SPRING ISOLATOR
5 - STRUT ASSEMBLY
6 - COIL SPRING

(2) Inspect for torn or damaged strut assembly

dust boots (Fig. 19).

(3) Inspect for damaged upper and lower spring

isolators (Fig. 19).

(4) Lift dust boot and inspect strut assembly for
evidence of fluid running from the upper end of fluid
reservoir. (Actual leakage will be a stream of fluid
running down the side and dripping off lower end of
unit). A slight amount of seepage between the strut
rod and strut shaft seal is not unusual and does not
affect performance of the strut assembly. Also inspect
jounce bumpers inside dust boot for signs of damage
or deterioration.

(5) Verify correct struts and coil springs are
installed on vehicle.

Coil springs are rated separately for each side of
vehicle depending on optional equipment and type of
service.

NOTE: If the coils springs require replacement, be
sure that the springs being replaced, are replaced
with springs meeting the correct load and spring
rate for the vehicle.

Replacement of the coil spring requires removal
and disassembly of the strut assembly. (Refer to 2 ­SUSPENSION/REAR/STRUT - REMOVAL)

Fig. 19 Strut Assembly

LH REAR SUSPENSION 2 - 43

STRUT (Continued)

REMOVAL - STRUT ASSEMBLY (REAR)

NOTE: When removing rear strut assembly from
vehicle, access to the 3 rear strut assembly-to-strut
tower attaching nuts is through the passenger com­partment of the vehicle.

(1) Remove the rear seat cushion from the interior

of the car. Refer to Body/Seats.

(2) Remove the rear seat back assembly. Refer to

Body/Seats.

(3) Remove both upper quarter trim panels from

the rear of the vehicle interior. Refer to Body/Interior.

(4) Remove both lower quarter trim panels from

the rear of the vehicle interior. Refer to Body/Interior.

(5) Remove the rear parcel shelf trim panel from

the vehicle interior. Refer to Body/Interior.

NOTE: The speaker should be removed from the
vehicle with the mounting plate attached

(6) Remove the 4 screws securing the rear speaker
and mounting plate in place for the side of the vehi­cle requiring repair. Unplug the wiring from the
speaker, then remove the speaker and mounting
plate from the vehicle.

(7) Raise vehicle on jack stands or centered on a
frame contact hoist. See Hoisting in Lubrication and
Maintenance.

(8) Remove the rear wheel and tire assembly from
the vehicle.

(9) Remove the rear caliper assembly from the
adapter. Refer to Brakes/Disc Brake Caliper. After
removing the caliper assembly, store the caliper by
hanging it from the underside of the vehicle (Fig. 20).
Do not let the rear caliper assembly hang by flexible
brake hose.

(10) If loose on wheel mounting studs, remove rear
brake rotor from hub.

(11) If the vehicle is equipped with antilock
brakes, remove the wheel speed sensor from the disc
brake caliper adapter by removing the bolt, then the
sensor (Fig. 21).

(12) Remove the lateral links from the spindle
(Fig. 22). This requires the removal of one long bolt
attaching both links to the spindle (Fig. 22).

(13) Install a thin wrench on the hex of the stabi­lizer bar attaching link stud to keep the stud from
turning in the link. Next, remove the nut from the
stabilizer bar attaching link stud at the stabilizer bar
(Fig. 23). Remove the link from the stabilizer bar.

1 - FLEX HOSE
2 - STRUT
3 - WIRE HANGER
4 - CALIPER ASSEMBLY

1 - STABILIZER BAR LINK
2 - STABILIZER BAR
3 - LATERAL LINK
4 - BOLT
5 - WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
6 - STRUT ASSEMBLY
7 - NUT

Fig. 20 Storing Rear Caliper

Fig. 21 Wheel Speed Sensor At Adapter

2 - 44 REAR SUSPENSION LH

STRUT (Continued)

Fig. 24 Spindle To Strut Attachment

Fig. 22 Lateral Links To Spindle Attachment

1 - SPINDLE
2 - LATERAL LINKS
3 - LATERAL LINK ATTACHING BOLT HEAD
4 - STRUT ASSEMBLY
5 - STABILIZER BAR ATTACHING LINK
6 - BRAKE CALIPER
7 - LATERAL LINK ATTACHING BOLT NUT

1 - PINCH BOLT
2 - STRUT ASSEMBLY
3 - REAR SPINDLE

(15) Insert a center punch into the hole on the
spindle (Fig. 25). Center punch must be tapped into
spindle until jammed into hole. This will spread spin­dle casting allowing it to be removed from strut
assembly.

Fig. 23 Link Attachment To Stabilizer Bar

1 - STABILIZER BAR ATTACHING LINK
2 - LINK STUD
3 - STABILIZER BAR
4 - WRENCHES
5 - BRAKE CALIPER
6 - STRUT ASSEMBLY

(14) Loosen and fully remove, the rear spindle to

strut assembly pinch bolt (Fig. 24).

CAUTION: When inserting center punch into rear
spindle, use care so point of center punch does not
puncture strut assembly.

Fig. 25 Center Punch Installed In Spindle

1 - LATERAL LINK
2 - STRUT ASSEMBLY
3 - CENTER PUNCH
4 - HOLE
5 - SPINDLE

(16) Using a hammer and a brass drift punch, tap
on top surface of spindle driving it down and off the
end of the strut assembly (Fig. 26).

(17) Let the rear spindle and assembled compo­nents hang from the trailing arm while the strut
assembly is out of the vehicle.

LH REAR SUSPENSION 2 - 45

STRUT (Continued)

(21) Remove the nut, washers and rubber isolators
securing the stabilizer bar link to the strut.

(22) For disassembly of the strut assembly, refer to
Disassembly.

DISASSEMBLY - STRUT ASSEMBLY (REAR)

The Strut assembly must be removed from the
vehicle for it to be disassembled and assembled.
Refer to Removal.

(1) If both struts are being serviced at the same
time, mark the coil spring and strut assembly accord­ing to which side of the vehicle the strut was
removed from, and which strut the coil spring was
removed from.

Fig. 26 Removing Spindle From Strut Assembly

1 - BRASS DRIFT PUNCH
2 - STRUT ASSEMBLY
3 - SPINDLE
4 - CENTER PUNCH
5 - HIT SPINDLE HERE
6 - LATERAL LINK

(18) Lower vehicle enough to access rear passenger

compartment.

NOTE: When removing rear strut assembly from
vehicle, access to the 3 rear strut assembly-to-strut
tower attaching nuts is through the passenger com­partment of the vehicle.

(19) Mark the location of the 3 strut assembly-to-

rear strut tower attaching nuts (Fig. 27).

(20) Remove the 3 strut assembly-to-rear strut
tower attaching nuts (Fig. 27), then remove strut
assembly from vehicle.

Fig. 27 Strut Assembly Attaching Nuts

1 - FRONT OF CAR
2 - ATTACHING NUTS
3 - MOUNTING STUDS
4 - STRUT ASSEMBLY
5 - SPEAKER OPENING

WARNING: DO NOT INSTALL THE COIL SPRING
COMPRESSOR HOOKS ON THE COIL SPRING IN
AN AREA OF THE SPRING COVERED BY A
SLEEVE. IF THE SLEEVE MOVES WHEN COM­PRESSING THE SPRING, THE SPRING COULD
MOVE RESULTING IN PERSONAL INJURY.

CAUTION: When installing the spring compressor’s
hooks on the coil spring, do not position the hooks
of the spring compressor on the sleeve of the coil
spring. Positioning the spring compressor on the
sleeve could cause the sleeve to dislodge from the
coil spring when it is compressed. This would
result in the required replacement of the coil spring.

(2) Position the strut assembly in the strut coil
spring compressor following the manufacturers
instructions. Position the strut assembly so the out­board side of the strut is outward away from the
compressor. Grasp the upper and lower coils of the
spring with the upper and lower hooks of the com­pressor. Place a clamp on the lower end of the coil
spring, so the strut is held in place once the strut
shaft nut is removed. Compress the coil spring until
all load is removed from the upper strut mount.

(3) Install Strut Shaft Socket, Special Tool 6864,
on the strut shaft nut. Use a deep well socket
inserted into the opening of tool 6864 to keep strut
shaft from turning. With the spring compressed,
remove the nut from the strut shaft.

(4) Remove the strut upper mount assembly, upper
spring isolator, dust shield, and jounce bumper. The
jounce bumper should come off with the dust shield.
The dust shield and upper spring isolator can be
removed from the upper mount if necessary.

(5) Remove the clamp and remove the strut out
from the bottom of the coil spring.

(6) Remove the lower spring isolator from the strut
coil spring seat.

(7) Inspect the strut assembly components for the
following and replace as necessary:

2 - 46 REAR SUSPENSION LH

STRUT (Continued)

• Inspect the strut for any condition of shaft bind-

ing over the full stroke of the shaft.

• Inspect the strut shaft for loss of charge.

• Inspect the jounce bumper for cracks and signs

of deterioration.

• Check the upper mount for cracks and distortion

and its retaining studs for any sign of damage.

• Inspect the dust shield for rips and deteriora-

tion.

• Inspect the upper and lower spring isolators for

material deterioration.

• Inspect the coil spring for any sign of damage to

the coating.

NOTE: Before releasing the tension on the coil
spring, note the position of the coil end on the
upper end of the coil spring. When reinstalled, posi­tion it in the same spot for ease of alignment of the
upper mount, coil spring and the strut.

(8) If the coil spring needs to be removed from the
compressor, release the tension from the coil spring
by backing off the compressor drive fully. Push back
the compressor hooks and remove the coil spring.

(2) Install the lower spring isolator on strut
matching the step in the isolator to the step in the
strut lower spring seat.

(3) Install the strut through the bottom of the coil
spring until the lower spring seat contacts the lower
end of the coil spring. Align the lower coil spring end
with the step in the strut lower spring seat. Install
the clamp on the lower end of the coil spring and
strut, so the strut is held in place.

(4) Install the jounce bumper into the dust shield
from the bottom (Fig. 28). The jounce bumper should
snap into position at the top end of the dust shield.

ASSEMBLY - STRUT ASSEMBLY (REAR)

WARNING: DO NOT INSTALL THE COIL SPRING
COMPRESSOR HOOKS ON THE COIL SPRING IN
AN AREA OF THE SPRING COVERED BY A
SLEEVE. IF THE SLEEVE MOVES WHEN COM­PRESSING THE SPRING, THE SPRING COULD
MOVE RESULTING IN PERSONAL INJURY.

CAUTION: Positioning the spring compressor
hooks on the coil spring sleeve could cause the
sleeve to dislodge from the coil spring when it is
compressed. A dislodged sleeve requires replace­ment of the coil spring.

NOTE: Make sure all components are free of dirt
and debris before assembly, especially around the
mounting surfaces.

NOTE: If the coil spring has been removed from the
spring compressor, proceed with the next step, oth­erwise, proceed with step 2.

(1) Place the coil spring in the compressor follow­ing the manufacturer’s instructions. The coil spring
must be installed so the sleeve on the spring is
towards the upper end of assembly. Before compress­ing the spring, rotate the spring to the position noted
in disassembly for ease of strut assembly compo­nents.

Fig. 28 Jounce Bumper Installed Into Dust Shield

1 - TOP OF DUST SHIELD
2 - DUST SHIELD
3 - JOUNCE BUMPER

(5) Install the dust shield and jounce bumper into
position in bottom of upper strut mount. Dust shield
should snap into position. Once correctly installed,
the dust boot should be able to be rotated within the
mount without coming loose.

(6) Install the upper strut mount, dust shield and
jounce bumper onto the strut shaft. Position the
mount so its center rear mounting stud is aligned
with the stabilizer bar attaching link bracket that is
on the inboard side of the strut.

(7) Install the upper strut mount to strut shaft nut
on the strut shaft. Install Strut Shaft Socket, Special
Tool 6864, on strut shaft nut. Use a deep well socket
inserted into the opening of tool 6864 to keep strut
shaft from turning. Tighten the strut shaft nut to a
torque of 75 N·m (55 ft. lbs.).

(8) Slowly release the tension from the coil spring
by backing off the compressor drive fully. As the ten­sion is relieved, make sure the upper mount, spring ,
and strut align properly.

(9) Remove the clamp from the lower end of the
coil spring and strut. Push back the spring compres­sor upper and lower hooks, then remove the strut
assembly from the spring compressor.

LH REAR SUSPENSION 2 - 47

STRUT (Continued)

(10) Install the strut assembly back into the vehi-

cle. Refer to Installation.

INSTALLATION - STRUT ASSEMBLY (REAR)

(1) Install the nut, washers, and rubber isolators

securing the stabilizer bar attaching link to the strut.

(2) Position the strut assembly back in the vehicle
with the 3 studs on the strut mount through the
holes in the strut tower. Install the 3 strut mount to
body attaching nuts onto mounting studs (Fig. 27).
Tighten the 3 strut mount attaching nuts to a torque
of 25 N·m (19 ft. lbs.).

(3) Raise vehicle back up to working height for
reconnecting lower strut.

(4) Install spindle onto bottom of the strut assem­bly. Push or tap spindle assembly onto lower end of
strut, until notch in spindle is tightly seated against
locating tab on strut assembly (Fig. 29). Then remove
center punch from hole in spindle. Install spindle to
strut assembly pinch bolt into spindle (Fig. 29).
Tighten spindle to strut assembly pinch bolt to 53
N·m (40 ft. lbs.).

attaching nut (Fig. 23). Tighten the stabilizer link to
stabilizer bar attaching nut to a torque of 95 N·m (70
ft. lbs.) using a crow foot wrench and torque wrench
in place of the wrench on the attaching nut. Be sure

to use a wrench to hold the link stud in place
while tightening attaching nut.

(7) Install rear wheel speed sensor into brake cal­iper adapter. Install head attaching bolt (Fig. 21)and
tighten to 7 N·m (60 in. lbs.).

(8) Install rear braking disc on hub. Carefully
install rear brake caliper over braking disc and
install on adapter. Tighten rear caliper assembly to
adapter mounting bolts to 22 N·m (192 in. lbs.).

(9) Install wheel and tire assembly on vehicle.
Then torque all wheel mounting stud nuts in proper
sequence until all nuts are torqued to half specifica­tion. Then repeat tightening sequence to full speci­fied torque of 129 N·m (95 ft. lbs.).

(10) Lower vehicle to the ground.

(11) With the weight of the vehicle on the tires,
tighten lateral link to spindle attaching bolt to 135
N·m (100 ft. lbs.).

(12) Reconnect the radio speaker wiring to the
rear speaker. Install rear radio speaker and mount­ing bracket using 4 screws.

(13) Install both lower quarter and upper quarter
trim panels Refer to Body/Interior.

(14) Install the rear seat back, and seat cushion.
Refer to Body/Seats.

(15) Check and reset rear wheel toe to specifica­tions if required. Refer to Wheel Alignment.

Fig. 29 Spindle Attachment To Strut

1 - STRUT ASSEMBLY
2 - SPINDLE
3 - PINCH BOLT
4 - LOCATING TAB
5 - NOTCH

(5) Install the lateral links on the spindle (Fig. 22).
Install, but DO NOT fully tighten lateral links to
spindle attaching bolt at this time.

CAUTION: Tightening lateral link attaching bolt to
spindle at this time will contort the bushing at curb
height and lead to bushing failure. This bolt is to be
tightened only when the vehicle is at curb riding
height.

(6) Install stabilizer bar link onto stabilizer bar
(Fig. 23). Install stabilizer link to stabilizer bar

TRAILING ARM/LINK

DESCRIPTION - TRAILING ARM

There is one trailing arm on each side of the vehi­cle (Fig. 1). It spans from the spindle forward to the
frame rail and rear torque box. The trailing arm
attaches to the rear spindle through a bracket which
is bolted to the bottom of the spindle. The trailing
arm attaches to the body using a bracket attached to
the frame rail and rear torque box. The trailing arm
has rubber isolator bushings at each end to isolate
suspension noise from the body of the vehicle.

OPERATION - TRAILING ARM

The purpose of the trailing arm is to control the
fore-and-aft movement of the spindle.

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - TRAILING ARM

Inspect the trailing arm and trailing arm bushings
for signs of deterioration and or damage. If the trail­ing arm bushings are deteriorated or the trailing arm
is damaged in any way, replacement of the trailing
arm will be required.

2 - 48 REAR SUSPENSION LH

TRAILING ARM/LINK (Continued)

Inspect the trailing arm for signs of contact with
the ground or road debris which has bent or caused
other damage to the trailing arm. If the trailing arm
is bent or damaged the trailing arm will require
replacement. Do not attempt to repair or

straighten a trailing arm.

REMOVAL - TRAILING ARM

(1) Raise vehicle on jackstands or centered on a
frame contact hoist. See Hoisting in Lubrication and
Maintenance.

(2) Remove the rear wheel and tire assembly from
the vehicle.

(3) Remove the bolt attaching the trailing arm to
the bracket on the bottom of the spindle (Fig. 30).

Fig. 31 Mounting Bracket Attachment

1 - TRAILING ARM
2 - FRAME RAIL
3 - ATTACHING BOLTS
4 - MOUNTING BRACKET
5 - TORQUE BOX

Fig. 30 Trailing Arm To Bracket Bolt

1 - SPINDLE
2 - TRAILING ARM BRACKET
3 - TRAILING ARM
4 - BOLT

(4) Remove the 4 bolts attaching the arm forward
mounting bracket to the frame rail and rear torque
box (Fig. 31).

(5) Remove the trailing arm and forward mounting
bracket from vehicle.

(6) Remove the bolt attaching the trailing arm to
the mounting bracket.

INSTALLATION - TRAILING ARM

CAUTION: When the trailing arm is installed to its
mounting bracket, it is important to set an offset
angle of 5 degrees before tightening the attaching
bolt. Otherwise, the bushing will be contorted when
the vehicle is at normal riding height. This angle
cannot be set once the trailing arm and bracket are
installed on the vehicle.

(1) Install the trailing arm to the mounting
bracket so the length-wise opening in the arm points
downward. Align the plane of the arm at a 5 degree
angle to the mounting bracket, mounting surface (to
the vehicle) (Fig. 32). This can be accomplished by
using a simple magnetic base protractor (Fig. 32).
Verify the mounting bracket is level, then rotate the
trailing arm until 5 degrees is measured (Fig. 32).

This angle is important to set, so the bushing is
not contorted when the vehicle is at normal
riding height.. Tighten the attaching bolt and nut
to a torque of 100 N·m (75 ft. lbs.). This bolt cannot
be tightened once mounted on the vehicle.

Fig. 32 Trailing Arm Mounting Angle

1 - EQUAL DISTANCES
2 - MOUNTING BRACKET
3 - PROTRACTOR
4 - TRAILING ARM

(2) Position the trailing arm and forward mount­ing bracket into the vehicle. Attach to frame rail and
torque box with the 4 attaching bolts (Fig. 31).
Tighten the attaching bolts to 60 N·m (45 ft. lbs.).

LH REAR SUSPENSION 2 - 49

TRAILING ARM/LINK (Continued)

(3) Install bolt attaching trailing arm to trailing
arm bracket on bottom of spindle (Fig. 30). Do not
fully tighten attaching bolt at this time.

(4) Install wheel and tire assembly on vehicle.
Tighten the wheel mounting stud nuts in proper
sequence until all nuts are torqued to half specifica­tion. Then repeat the tightening sequence to the full
specified torque of 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.).

(5) Lower vehicle to the ground.
(6) Tighten the trailing arm to spindle bracket

attaching bolt to a torque of 100 N·m (75 ft. lbs.).

(7) Check and reset rear wheel toe to specifications

if required. Refer to Wheel Alignment.

2 - 50 WHEEL ALIGNMENT LH

WHEEL ALIGNMENT

TABLE OF CONTENTS

page page

WHEEL ALIGNMENT

DESCRIPTION - WHEEL ALIGNMENT .......50

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SUSPENSION

AND STEERING ......................54

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - VEHICLE

LEAD/PULL ..........................56

STANDARD PROCEDURE

STANDARD PROCEDURE - VEHICLE

LEAD/PULL ALIGNMENT BIAS............56

WHEEL ALIGNMENT

DESCRIPTION - WHEEL ALIGNMENT

Vehicle wheel alignment is the positioning of all
interrelated front and rear suspension angles. These
angles affect the handling and steering of the vehicle
when it is in motion. Proper wheel alignment is
essential for efficient steering, good directional stabil­ity, and proper tire wear.

The method of checking a vehicle’s front and rear
wheel alignment varies depending on the manufacturer
and type of equipment used. The manufacturer’s
instructions should always be followed to ensure accu­racy of the alignment, except when DaimlerChrysler
Corporation’s wheel alignment specifications differ.

On this vehicle, the suspension angles that can be
adjusted are as follows:

Front

• Camber

• Toe

Rear

• Toe

Check the wheel alignment and make all wheel align­ment adjustments with the vehicle standing at its
proper curb height specification. Curb height is the nor­mal riding height of the vehicle. It is measured from a
certain point on the vehicle to the ground or a desig­nated area while the vehicle is sitting on a flat, level
surface. Refer to Curb Height Measurement in this sec­tion for additional information.

Typical wheel alignment angles and measurements
are described in the following paragraphs.

STANDARD PROCEDURE - WHEEL

ALIGNMENT .........................57

STANDARD PROCEDURE - CURB HEIGHT

MEASUREMENT ......................59

SPECIFICATIONS

WHEEL ALIGNMENT ...................60

• Excessive negative camber will cause tread wear

at the inside of the tire.

• Excessive positive camber will cause tread wear

on the outside of the tire.

CAMBER

Camber is the inward or outward tilt of the top of
the tire and wheel assembly (Fig. 1). Camber is mea­sured in degrees of angle relative to a true vertical
line. Camber is a tire wearing angle.

Fig. 1 Camber

1 - WHEELS TILTED OUT AT TOP
2 - WHEELS TILTED IN AT TOP

LH WHEEL ALIGNMENT 2 - 51

WHEEL ALIGNMENT (Continued)

CROSS CAMBER

Cross camber is the difference between left and
right camber. To achieve the cross camber reading,
subtract the right side camber reading from the left.
For example, if the left camber is +0.3° and the right
camber is 0.0°, the cross camber would be +0.3°.

CASTER

Caster is the forward or rearward tilt of the steer­ing knuckle in reference to the position of the upper
and lower ball joints. Caster is measured in degrees
of angle relative to a true vertical center line. This
line is viewed from the side of the tire and wheel
assembly (Fig. 2).

• Forward tilt (upper ball joint ahead of lower)

results in a negative caster angle.

• Rearward tilt (upper ball joint trailing lower)

results in a positive caster angle.

Although caster does not affect tire wear, a caster
imbalance between the two front wheels may cause
the vehicle to lead to the side with the least positive
caster.

TOE

Toe is the inward or outward angle of the wheels

as viewed from above the vehicle (Fig. 3).

• Toe-in is produced when the front edges of the
wheels on the same axle are closer together than the
rear edges.

• Toe-out is produced when the front edges of the
wheels on the same axle are farther apart than the
rear edges.

Toe-in and toe-out can occur at the front wheels

and the rear wheels.

Toe is measured in degrees or inches. The mea­surement identifies the amount that the front of the
wheels point inward (toe-in) or outward (toe-out). Toe
is measured at the spindle height. Zero toe means
the front and rear edges of the wheels on the same
axle are equally distant.

Fig. 2 Caster

CROSS CASTER

Cross caster is the difference between left and

right caster.

Fig. 3 Toe

1 - TOE-IN
2 - TOE-OUT

2 - 52 WHEEL ALIGNMENT LH

WHEEL ALIGNMENT (Continued)

TOE-OUT ON TURNS

Toe-out on turns is the relative positioning of the
front wheels while steering through a turn (Fig. 4).
This compensates for each front wheel’s turning
radius. As the vehicle encounters a turn, the out­board wheel must travel in a larger radius circle
than the inboard wheel. The steering system is
designed to make each wheel follow its particular
radius circle. To accomplish this, the front wheels
must progressively toe outward as the steering is
turned from center. This eliminates tire scrubbing
and undue tire wear when steering a vehicle through
a turn.

STEERING AXIS INCLINATION (S. A. I.)

Steering axis inclination is the angle between a
true vertical line starting at the center of the tire at
the road contact point and a line drawn through the
center of the upper ball joint (or strut) and the lower
ball joint (Fig. 5). S.A.I. is built into the vehicle and
is not an adjustable angle. If S.A.I. is not within
specifications, a bent or damaged suspension compo­nent may be the cause.

Fig. 4 Toe-Out On Turns

1 - TOE-OUT ON TURNS

DYNAMIC TOE PATTERN

Dynamic toe pattern is the inward and outward toe
movement of the front and rear tires through the
suspension’s jounce and rebound travel. As the vehi­cle’s suspension moves up and down, the toe pattern
varies. Toe pattern is critical in controlling the direc­tional stability of the vehicle while in motion. Front
and rear dynamic toe pattern is preset by the factory
at the time the vehicle is assembled.

It is not necessary to check or adjust front or rear
dynamic toe pattern when doing a normal wheel
alignment. The only time dynamic toe pattern needs
to be checked or adjusted is if the frame of the vehi­cle has been damaged.

Fig. 5 S.A.I. and I.A.

1 - S.A.I.
2 - CAMBER
3 - I.A.

INCLUDED ANGLE (I. A.)

Included angle is the sum of the S.A.I. angle plus
or minus the camber angle, depending on whether or
not the wheel has positive or negative camber (Fig.

5). If camber is positive, add the camber angle to the
S.A.I. angle. If camber is negative, subtract the cam­ber angle from the S.A.I. angle. Included angle is not
adjustable, but can be used to diagnose a frame mis­alignment or bent suspension component (spindle,
strut).

LH WHEEL ALIGNMENT 2 - 53

WHEEL ALIGNMENT (Continued)

THRUST ANGLE

Thrust angle is the averaged direction the rear
wheels are pointing in relation to the vehicle’s center
line (Fig. 6). The presence of negative or positive
thrust angle causes the rear tires to track improperly
to the left or right of the front tires (dog tracking).

• Negative thrust angle means the rear tires are

tracking to the left of the front tires.

• Positive thrust angle means the rear tires are

tracking to the right of the front tires.

Improper tracking can cause undue tire wear, a
lead or pull and a crooked steering wheel. Excessive
thrust angle can usually be corrected by adjusting
the rear wheel toe so that each wheel has one-half of
the total toe measurement.

Fig. 6 Thrust Angle

2 - 54 WHEEL ALIGNMENT LH

WHEEL ALIGNMENT (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SUSPENSION AND STEERING

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION

Front End Whine On Turns 1. Defective wheel bearing 1. Replace wheel bearing

2. Incorrect wheel alignment 2. Check and reset wheel alignment

3. Worn tires 3. Replace tires

Front End Growl Or
Grinding On Turns

Front End Clunk Or Snap
On Turns

1. Defective wheel bearing 1. Replace wheel bearing

2. Engine mount grounding 2. Check for motor mount hitting frame
rail and reposition engine as required

3. Worn or broken C/V joint 3. Replace C/V joint

4. Loose wheel lug nuts 4. Verify wheel lug nut torque

5. Incorrect wheel alignment 5. Check and reset wheel alignment

6. Worn tires 6. Replace tires

7. Front strut pin in upper strut mount 7. Replace the front strut upper mount
and bearing

1. Loose lug nuts 1. Verify wheel lug nut torque

2. Worn or broken C/V joint 2. Replace C/V joint

3. Worn or loose tie rod 3. Tighten or replace tie rod end

4. Worn or loose ball joint 4. Tighten or replace ball joint

5. Worn/loose control arm bushing 5. Replace control arm bushing

6. Loose stabilizer bar. 6. Tighten stabilizer bar to specified
torque

7. Loose strut mount to body

attachment

8. Loose crossmember bolts 8. Tighten crossmember bolts to

7. Tighten strut attachment to specified
torque

specified torque

Front End Whine With
Vehicle Going Straight At A
Constant Speed

Front End Growl Or
Grinding With Vehicle
Going Straight At A
Constant Speed

Front End Whine When
Accelerating Or
Decelerating

1. Defective wheel bearing 1. Replace wheel bearing

2. Incorrect wheel alignment 2. Check and reset wheel alignment

3. Worn tires 3. Replace tires

4. Worn or defective transaxle gears or

bearings

1. Engine mount grounding 1. Reposition engine as required

2. Worn or broken C/V joint 2. Replace C/V joint

1. Worn or defective transaxle gears or

bearings

4. Replace transaxle gears or bearings

1. Replace transaxle gears or bearings

LH WHEEL ALIGNMENT 2 - 55

WHEEL ALIGNMENT (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION

Front End Clunk When
Accelerating Or
Decelerating

Road Wander 1. Incorrect tire pressure 1. Inflate tires to recommended pressure

1. Worn or broken engine mount 1. Replace engine mount

2. Worn or defective transaxle gears or

bearings

3. Loose lug nuts 3. Verify wheel lug nut torque

4. Worn or broken C/V joint 4. Replace C/V joint

5. Worn or loose ball joint 5. Tighten or replace ball joint

6. Worn or loose control arm bushing 6. Replace control arm bushing

7. Loose crossmember bolts 7. Tighten crossmember bolts to

8. Worn tie rod end 8. Replace tie rod end

2. Incorrect front or rear wheel toe 2. Check and reset wheel toe

3. Worn wheel bearings 3. Replace wheel bearing

4. Worn control arm bushings 4. Replace control arm bushing

5. Excessive friction in steering gear 5. Replace steering gear

6. Excessive friction in steering shaft

coupling

7. Excessive friction in strut upper

bearing

2. Replace transaxle gears or bearings

specified torque

6. Replace steering coupler

7. Replace strut bearing

Lateral Pull 1. Unequal tire pressure 1. Inflate all tires to recommended

pressure

2. Radial tire lead 2. Perform lead correction procedure

3. Incorrect front wheel camber 3. Check and reset front wheel camber

4. Power steering gear imbalance 4. Replace power steering gear

5. Wheel braking 5. Correct braking condition causing
lateral pull

Excessive Steering Free
Play

Excessive Steering Effort 1. Low tire pressure 1. Inflate all tires to recommended

1. Worn or loose tie rod ends 1. Replace or tighten tie rod ends

2. Loose steering gear mounting bolts 2. Tighten steering gear bolts to specified
torque

3. Worn steering gear 3. Replace Steering Gear

4. Loose or worn steering shaft coupler 4. Replace steering shaft coupler

pressure

2. Low power steering fluid level 2. Fill power steering fluid reservoir to
correct level

3. Loose power steering pump drive

belt

4. Lack of lubricant in ball joints 4. Lubricate or replace ball joints

5. Steering gear malfunction 5. Replace steering gear

6. Lack of lubricant in steering coupler 6. Replace steering coupler

3. Correctly adjust power steering pump
drive belt

2 - 56 WHEEL ALIGNMENT LH

WHEEL ALIGNMENT (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - VEHICLE
LEAD/PULL

To assure correct diagnosis, it is important to fol­low the steps outlined below in the order shown.
Road test the vehicle before and after each step to
verify that the lead condition has been corrected.
When evaluating a vehicle, always drive the same
road in both directions to get a feel for the effect of
road crown and cross wind. A neutral vehicle will
exhibit a small amount of drift on both right and left
crowned roads (normal crown sensitivity). A vehicle
with pronounced lead/pull may have one or more of
the following conditions:

(1) UNEQUAL TIRE PRESSURE. Adjust tire pres­sure to the pressure stated on door placard. Make
sure the tire pressure is equal on all four tires and
evaluate the car. Also verify that the tire size and
type are correct and match each other. If the car still
has a lead condition go to step (2).

(2) TIRE CONICITY. Excessive tire conicity is one
of the more frequent causes of vehicle lead. Cross­switch the front tires and evaluate the car. If the car
still leads in the same direction or gets worse, return
the front tires to their original position, then go to
step (3).

(3) SUSPENSION ALIGNMENT. Check and record
the wheel alignment settings including caster. Non­symmetrical front caster or camber can sometimes
cause a lead condition or can be used to fix a lead
condition. To bias the front suspension caster and
camber alignment settings to correct or minimize a
lead condition, perform the Vehicle Lead/Pull Align­ment Bias repair procedure (Refer to 2 - SUSPEN­SION/WHEEL ALIGNMENT - STANDARD
PROCEDURE). If the car still leads after the align­ment bias procedure, go to step (4) or (5) accordingly.

(4) STEERING GEAR VALVE IMBALANCE.
Steering gear valve imbalance can sometimes cause a
vehicle lead. Although there is no quick test or mea­surement that can be performed to verify a good or
bad steering gear valve, generally the steering efforts
will feel much lighter in the lead direction and
heavier in the opposite direction with an unbalanced
valve. Replace the steering gear only as a 9last
resort9 to solve the problem. To replace the steering
gear, (Refer to 19 - STEERING/GEAR - REMOVAL).

STANDARD PROCEDURE

STANDARD PROCEDURE - VEHICLE
LEAD/PULL ALIGNMENT BIAS

This procedure is designed to be used in conjunc­tion with Diagnosis And Testing - Vehicle Lead/Pull
(Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/WHEEL ALIGNMENT ­DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).

Proceed with the Caster Bias procedure before

attempting the Camber Bias procedure.

CASTER BIAS

On a vehicle that leads left, create more caster on
the left than on the right. On a right lead vehicle,
the procedure is opposite. Try to get at least 0.8
degree of cross caster, but do not exceed the maxi­mum specification of 1.0 degree.

(1) Loosen the four engine cradle to frame bolts.
Rotate the cradle forward on the side that you need
to increase the caster.

(2) Tighten the engine cradle to frame bolts to 163
N·m (120 ft. lbs.).

(3) Center the steering wheel and set toe (toe must
be reset before doing another caster sweep to ensure
accuracy).

(4) Verify that the lead is corrected. If vehicle still
leads, continue with the Camber Bias procedure.

CAMBER BIAS

On a vehicle that leads left, create either more
negative camber on the left or more positive camber
on the right. On a right lead vehicle, the procedure is
opposite. To minimize uneven tire wear, try to
achieve the same amount of camber bias on each
side. For example, if the car leads left, compensate
by setting the front left camber to -0.3 degrees and
front right camber to +0.3 degrees. Do not exceed
cross camber maximum specification of 0.7 degree, or
individual camber specification of -0.6 to +0.6
degrees.

(1) Raise the front of the vehicle until the front
suspension is not supporting the weight of the vehi­cle and tires are clearing the floor. Remove the pre­ferred wheel and tire assembly.

(2) Remove one of the strut clevis to knuckle bolts
and loosely assemble a reduced shank bolt and nut
(Available through the Mopart Parts system) in its
place. Loosen the other strut clevis to knuckle bolt to
provide for adjustment. In severe cases where a wide
range of adjustment is required, two reduced shank
bolts should be used per knuckle. Repeat the proce­dure to the other side strut clevis as necessary.

(3) Install the wheel and tire assembly. Lower the
vehicle until the full weight of the vehicle is resting
on the suspension.

(4) Adjust the front camber to the preferred set­ting by physically pushing in or pulling out the top of
the wheel and tire assembly as required. When the
camber is correct, tighten both strut clevis to knuckle
bolts to 203 N·m (150 ft. lbs.). Set front toe to speci­fications.

LH WHEEL ALIGNMENT 2 - 57

WHEEL ALIGNMENT (Continued)

STANDARD PROCEDURE - WHEEL ALIGNMENT

PRE-WHEEL ALIGNMENT INSPECTION

Before any attempt is made to change or correct
the wheel alignment, the following inspection and
necessary corrections must be made to ensure proper
alignment.

(1)

Verify that the fuel tank is full of fuel. If the
tank is not full, the reduction in weight will affect the
curb height of the vehicle and the alignment angles.

(2) The passenger and luggage compartments of
the vehicle should be free of any load that is not fac­tory equipment.

(3) Check the tires on the vehicle. All tires must be
the same size and in good condition with approxi­mately the same amount of tread wear. Inflate all
the tires to the recommended air pressure.

(4) Check the front wheel and tire assemblies for
excessive radial runout.

(5) Inspect lower ball joints and all steering link­age for looseness, binding, wear or damage. Repair as
necessary.

(6) Check suspension fasteners for proper torque
and retighten as necessary.

(7) Inspect all suspension component rubber bush­ings for signs of wear or deterioration. Replace any
faulty bushings or components before aligning the
vehicle.

(8) Check the vehicle’s curb height to verify it is
within specifications. Refer to Curb Height Measure­ment.

WHEEL ALIGNMENT SETUP

(1) Position the vehicle on an alignment rack.

(2) Install all required alignment equipment on
the vehicle, per the alignment equipment manufac­turer’s instructions. On this vehicle, a four-wheel
alignment is recommended.

REAR WHEEL TOE ADJUSTMENT

(1) Loosen lateral link, adjustment link jam nuts
(Fig. 7). Rotate adjustment links as required to set
rear wheel Toe to specifications. Do not exceed the

maximum length dimensions of the lateral links
shown in (Fig. 8). Both dimensions must be
checked to ensure they do not exceed maxi­mums allowed.

Fig. 7 Rear Wheel Toe Adjustment

1 - ADJUSTMENT LINK
2 - JAM NUTS
3 - SPINDLE
4 - LATERAL LINKS

CAUTION: When setting rear toe-in on vehicle, the
maximum lengths of the adjustable lateral link at
the locations shown in (Fig. 8) must not be
exceeded. If these maximum lengths are exceeded,
inadequate retention of adjustment link to the inner
and outer link may result. Ensure that the adjust­ment sleeve jam nuts are torqued to the required
specifications when the Toe setting procedure is
completed.

NOTE: Prior to reading the vehicle’s alignment
readouts, the front and rear of vehicle should be
jounced. Induce jounce (rear first, then front) by
grasping the center of the bumper and jouncing
each end of vehicle an equal number of times. The
bumper should always be released when vehicle is
at the bottom of the jounce cycle.

(3) Read the vehicle’s current front and rear align­ment settings. Compare the vehicle’s current align­ment settings to the vehicle specifications for camber,
caster and toe-in. Refer to Specifications.

(4) If the rear alignment is out of specification,
adjust it first, before proceeding to the front. Rear
camber and caster are not adjustable. If rear camber
is out of specification, check for damaged or bent rear
suspension components.

Fig. 8 Lateral Link Maximum Length Dimensions

1 - 380mm
(MAX)
2 - 90mm
(MAX)

2 - 58 WHEEL ALIGNMENT LH

WHEEL ALIGNMENT (Continued)

(2) Tighten lateral link, adjustment link lock-nuts
to 88 N·m (65 ft. lbs.) torque.

(3) Proceed to set the front wheel alignment. If
front camber and caster readings are within required
specifications, proceed to Front Wheel Toe Adjust­ment. If not, refer to the following procedure to cor­rect camber.

CAMBER AND CASTER

Front wheel Camber and Caster settings on this
vehicle are determined at the time the vehicle is
designed. This is done by determining the precise
mounting location of the vehicle’s suspension compo­nents throughout the design and assembly processes
of the vehicle. This is called a Net-Build vehicle and
results in no normal requirement for adjustment of
the Camber and Caster after a vehicle is built, or
when servicing the suspension components. Thus,
Camber and Caster are not normally considered an
adjustable specification when performing an align­ment on this vehicle. Though Camber and Caster are
not adjustable, they should be checked during the
alignment procedure to ensure they meet the manu­facturers specifications.

If camber and caster do not meet required specifi­cations, the vehicles suspension components should
be inspected for any signs of damage or bending.

This inspection must be done before perform­ing the camber setting procedure.

If a vehicle has a drift or lead condition, the front
camber can be adjusted using the following camber
adjustment procedure. For diagnosis of a lead/pull
condition, (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/WHEEL
ALIGNMENT - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).

CAUTION: Do not attempt to adjust the vehicles
Caster or Camber by heating, bending or modifying
the vehicle’s front suspension components.

FRONT CAMBER ADJUSTMENT

There are camber adjustment bolts and nuts avail­able to allow front suspension camber adjustment in
the event the vehicle pulls even though the camber is
within specifications. This procedure involves replac­ing the original strut clevis to knuckle attachment
bolts with special undersized bolts.

(1) Raise the front of vehicle by the frame until
the tires are not supporting the weight of the vehicle.

(2) Remove the tire and wheel assembly from the
location on the vehicle requiring camber adjustment.

CAUTION: When removing the strut to knuckle
bolts from the strut clevis bracket, do not allow
knuckle to pull away, putting a strain on the brake
flex hose.

CAUTION: The bolts attaching the strut to the steer­ing knuckle are serrated in the area where they go
through the steering knuckle and strut. When
removing, do not turn the bolts in the steering
knuckle. If bolts are turned in the steering knuckle,
damage to the steering knuckle will result.

(3) Remove the nuts from the bolts attaching the
strut to the knuckle (Fig. 9). Tap the bolts out of the
knuckle.

Fig. 9 Strut To Steering Knuckle Attaching Bolts

1 - STRUT ASSEMBLY
2 - NUTS
3 - STRUT ASSEMBLY TO STEERING KNUCKLE ATTACHING
BOLTS
4 - STEERING KNUCKLE

(4) Loosely install the camber adjustment bolts
and nuts attaching the strut to the steering knuckle.
The bolts should be installed so the nuts are towards
the front of the vehicle.

(5) Install the tire and wheel assembly.

(6) If necessary, repeat steps 2 through 5 to the
other side of the vehicle.

(7) Lower the vehicle.

(8) Jounce the front and rear of vehicle.

(9) Adjust the front camber to the preferred set­ting by pushing in or pulling outward on the top of
the wheel and tire as required. When camber is cor­rect, tighten the upper and lower strut to knuckle
camber adjustment bolts to a torque of 203 N·m (150
ft. lbs.).

(10) Proceed to Front Wheel Toe Adjustment and
adjust front wheel toe as necessary.

FRONT WHEEL TOE ADJUSTMENT

(1) Center steering wheel and hold it in place
using a steering wheel clamp.

(2) Loosen the tie rod adjustment pinch bolt.
Rotate the adjustment sleeve to align toe to specifi­cations (Fig. 10).

LH WHEEL ALIGNMENT 2 - 59

WHEEL ALIGNMENT (Continued)

CAUTION: When torquing adjustment pinch bolt,
the following procedure must be followed to ensure
adequate retention of the adjustment sleeve. Not
following this procedure, could result in the Toe
Setting Adjustment changing and/or loosening of
the inner or outer tie rod ends.

NOTE: Use an appropriate tool on neck area of
outer tie rod to maintain the correct perpendicular
orientation of the tie rod end stud within the tie rod
end.

(3) After completion of toe adjustment procedure,
tighten tie rod pinch bolt (Fig. 11) to a torque of 38
N·m (28 ft. lbs.).

Fig. 10 Front Wheel Toe Adjustment Location

1 - ADJUSTMENT TOOL
2 - ADJUSTMENT PINCH BOLT
3 - TIE ROD END

CAUTION: When setting toe on vehicle, the maxi­mum dimension of exposed threads allowed on
inner and outer tie rod cannot exceed the distance
shown (Fig. 11). If the maximum distance is
exceeded, inadequate retention of either inner or
outer tie rod may result. Ensure that adjustment
pinch bolt is torqued to required specification when
Toe setting procedure is completed.

(1) Road test the vehicle after the initial wheel
alignment has been performed. If vehicle still drifts
or leads, repeat the front wheel alignment procedure
and adjust the camber to bias the cross camber set­ting opposite of the direction in which the vehicle has
the tendency to lead. For example, if the vehicle
leads left, compensate by setting left front camber to

0.0° and right front camber up to +0.6°, allowing
both sides to remain within camber specifications.
The cross camber is still at 0.6° which is within the
allowed alignment specification.

STANDARD PROCEDURE - CURB HEIGHT
MEASUREMENT

The wheel alignment is to be checked and all align­ment adjustments made with the vehicle at its
required curb height specification.

Vehicle height is to be checked with the vehicle on
a flat, level surface, preferably a vehicle alignment
rack. The tires are to be inflated to the recommended
pressure. All tires are to be the same size as stan­dard equipment. Vehicle height is checked with the
fuel tank full of fuel, and no passenger or luggage
compartment load.

Vehicle height is not adjustable. If measurement is
not within specifications, inspect vehicle for bent or
weak suspension components. Compare parts tag on
suspect coil spring(s) to parts book and vehicle sales

Fig. 11 Tie Rod Thread Engagement Requirements

1 - OUTER TIE ROD
2 - ADJUSTER
3 - PINCH BOLT
4 - INNER TIE ROD
5 - ALLOWABLE THREADS EXPOSED ON OUTER TIE ROD AND
ADJUSTER IS A MAXIMUM OF 20 MILLIMETERS. REFER TO
AREA INDICATED ABOVE ON THE OUTER TIE ROD AND
ADJUSTER.

code, checking for a match. Once removed from vehi­cle, compare coil spring height to a correct new or
known good coil spring. The heights should vary if
the suspect spring is weak.

(1) Measure from the inboard edge of the wheel
opening fender lip directly above the wheel center
(spindle), to the floor or alignment rack surface.

(2) When measuring, maximum left-to-right differ­ential is not to exceed 20 mm (0.79 in.).

(3) Compare measurements to specifications listed
in the following chart.

2 - 60 WHEEL ALIGNMENT LH

WHEEL ALIGNMENT (Continued)

CURB HEIGHT SPECIFICATIONS

VEHICLE FRONT REAR

739mm±20mm 754mm±20mm

CONCORDE/300M

29.09 in. ± 0.79 in. 29.68 in. ± 0.79 in.

INTREPID

729mm±20mm 735mm±20mm

28.70 in. ± 0.79 in. 28.93 in. ± 0.79 in.

SPECIFICATIONS

WHEEL ALIGNMENT

NOTE: All specifications are given in degrees.

NOTE: All wheel alignments are to be set with the
vehicle at curb height. Refer to CURB HEIGHT MEA­SUREMENT.

FRONT WHEEL ALIGNMENT PREFERRED SETTING ACCEPTABLE RANGE

CAMBER 0.00° -0.60° to +0.60°
Cross Camber (Maximum Side-To-Side

Difference)
CASTER +3.00° +2.00° to +4.00°

Cross Caster (Maximum Side-To-Side
Difference)

TOTAL TOE* 0.00° 20.20° to +0.20°

REAR WHEEL ALIGNMENT PREFERRED SETTING ACCEPTABLE RANGE
CAMBER 20.20° 20.70° to +0.30°
TOTAL TOE* +0.10° 20.20° to +0.40°
THRUST ANGLE 0.00° -0.15° to +0.15°
NOTE:

*TOTAL TOE is the sum of both the left and right wheel toe settings. TOTAL TOE must be equally split between
each front wheel to ensure the steering wheel is centered after setting toe. Positive (+) is Toe-in, Negative (2)is
Toe-out.

0.00° 0.70°

0.00° 1.00°

LH DRIVELINE 3 - 1

DRIVELINE

HALFSHAFT

TABLE OF CONTENTS

page page

HALFSHAFT

DESCRIPTION ..........................1

OPERATION ............................1

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - DRIVELINE ......1

REMOVAL .............................4

INSTALLATION ..........................5

SPECIFICATIONS

TORQUE .............................9

HALFSHAFT

DESCRIPTION

The front halfshaft assemblies are flexible assem­blies consisting of an inner and outer flexible joint
connected by an solid shaft (Fig. 1) (Fig. 2). Trans­axle packaging and location requires the use of
unequal length halfshafts, with the left shaft being
longer than the right.

The inner joints are of a tripod design (Fig. 2), and
allow for axial and angular movement to accommo­date for shifting of powertrain and suspension com­ponents. The inner joints incorporate a female spline
which install over the transaxle stub shafts.

The outer joints are of a Rzeppa design (Fig. 2),
and only offer angular flexibility. The outer joints
incorporate a male spline, which connect to the wheel
hub/bearing. The outer joint is fastened to the hub to
ensure that there is no axial movement (end-play).

Both inner and outer joints utilize flexible “boots”
(Fig. 1) (Fig. 2) which maintain grease within the
joints, protect the joints from the environment/ele­ments, and facilitate the axial and angular move­ment of the joints. The inner joint boots are
constructed of silicone rubber. The outer boots are
made of Hytrel plastic.

SPECIAL TOOLS

DRIVELINE ...........................9

CV BOOT-INNER

REMOVAL .............................9

INSTALLATION .........................10

CV BOOT-OUTER

REMOVAL .............................12

INSTALLATION .........................13

OPERATION

Halfshaft assemblies are designed to transmit
power from the transaxle to the front wheels, while
allowing for powertrain and suspension flex.

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - DRIVELINE

HALFSHAFT VISUAL INSPECTION

(1) Check for grease in the vicinity of the inboard
tripod joint and outboard C/V joint; this is a sign of
inner or outer joint seal boot or seal boot clamp dam­age.

(2) A light film of grease may appear on the inner
tripod joint seal boot; this is considered normal and
should not require replacement of the seal boot. All
inner tripod joint seal boots are made of silicone rub­ber; which will allow the weeping (sweating) of the
joint lubricant to pass through it while in operation.

NOTE: When halfshaft boots are replaced be sure
boots of the correct material are used.

3 - 2 HALFSHAFT LH

HALFSHAFT (Continued)

Fig. 1 Front Halfshaft Assemblies

1 - INNER BOOT 7 - INTERCONNECTING SHAFT
2 - INTERCONNECTING SHAFT 8 - OUTER RZEPPA JOINT
3 - OUTER BOOT 9 - INNER BOOT
4 - RIGHT HALF SHAFT 10 - LEFT HALF SHAFT
5 - TONE WHEEL
(WHEN EQUIPPED WITH ABS)
6 - INNER TRIPOD JOINT

NOISE AND/OR VIBRATION IN TURNS

A clicking noise and/or a vibration in turns could

be caused by one of the following conditions:

(1) Damaged outer C/V or inner tripod joint seal
boot or seal boot clamps. This will result in the loss
and/or contamination of the joint grease, resulting in
inadequate lubrication of the joint.

(2) Noise may also be caused by another compo-

11 - OUTER BOOT

SHUDDER OR VIBRATION DURING ACCELERATION

This problem could be a result of:
(1) A worn or damaged halfshaft inner tripod joint.
(2) A sticking tripod joint spider assembly (inner

tripod joint only).

(3) Improper wheel alignment. (Refer to 2 - SUS­PENSION/WHEEL ALIGNMENT - STANDARD
PROCEDURE)

nent of the vehicle coming in contact with the half­shafts.

VIBRATION AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS

This problem could be a result of:

CLUNKING NOISE DURING ACCELERATION

This noise may be a result of one of the following

conditions:

(1) A torn seal boot on the inner or outer joint of

the halfshaft assembly.

(2) A loose or missing clamp on the inner or outer

(1) Foreign material (mud, snow, etc.) packed on
the backside of the wheel(s).

(2) Out of balance front tires or wheels. (Refer to
22 - TIRES/WHEELS - STANDARD PROCEDURE)

(3) Improper tire and/or wheel runout. (Refer to 22

- TIRES/WHEELS - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)

joint of the halfshaft assembly.

(3) A damaged or worn halfshaft C/V joint.

LH HALFSHAFT 3 - 3

HALFSHAFT (Continued)

Fig. 2 Halfshaft Component Identification

1 - HOUSING ASM, RETAINER 11 - CLAMP, SEAL RETAINING
2 - RING, SPACER 12 - SHAFT,AXLE (RH SHOWN, LH SIMILAR)
3 - SPIDER, TRIPOD JOINT 13 - SEAL, DRIVE AXLE OUTBOARD
4 - RING, RETAINING 14 - CLAMP, SEAL RETAINING
5 - RETAINER, BALL & ROLLER 15 - RING, RACE RETAINING
6 - BALL, TRIPOD JOINT 16 - BALL, CHROME ALLOY
7 - ROLLER, NEEDLE 17 - RACE, C/V JOINT INNER
8 - CLAMP, SEAL RETAINING 18 - CAGE, C/V JOINT
9 - BUSHING, TRILOBAL TRIPOD 19 - RACE, C/V JOINT OUTER
10 - SEAL, DRIVE AXLE INBOARD

3 - 4 HALFSHAFT LH

HALFSHAFT (Continued)

REMOVAL

(1) Raise vehicle on jackstands or centered on a

frame contact type hoist.

(2) Remove the front wheel and tire assembly from

the vehicle.

(3) Remove the front caliper assembly from the

front steering knuckle assembly (Fig. 3).

Fig. 3 Disc Brake Caliper Mounting

1 - BRAKE LINE
2 - CALIPER GUIDE PIN BOLTS
3 - STEERING KNUCKLE
4 - BLEEDER SCREW
5 - CALIPER ASSEMBLY

(4) Remove front braking disk (rotor) from hub, by

pulling it straight off wheel mounting studs (Fig. 4).

(5) Remove the speed sensor cable routing bracket

from the strut assembly (Fig. 5).

(6) Remove the hub and bearing-to-stub axle

retaining nut (Fig. 6).

(7) Dislodge inner tripod joint from stub shaft
retaining snap ring on transaxle assembly (Fig. 7).
Inner tripod joint is dislodged from stub shaft retain­ing snap ring, by inserting a pry bar between trans­axle case and inner tripod joint and prying on tripod
joint. Only disengage the inner tripod joint from

the retaining snap ring. Do not attempt to
remove the inner tripod joint from the trans­mission stub shaft at this time.

CAUTION: The strut assembly to steering knuckle
bolts are serrated where they go through strut
assembly and steering knuckle. When removing
bolts, turn nuts off bolts. DO NOT TURN BOLTS IN
STEERING KNUCKLE. If bolts are turned, damage
to steering knuckle will result.

(8) Remove the strut assembly to steering knuckle
attaching bolts (Fig. 8).

(9) Remove the top of the steering knuckle from
the strut assembly.

Fig. 4 Removing Braking Disc

1 - HUB
2 - STEERING KNUCKLE
3 - BRAKE ROTOR (DISC)
4 - WHEEL MOUNTING STUD

Fig. 5 Speed Sensor Cable Routing Bracket

1 - STRUT ASSEMBLY
2 - ROUTING BRACKET
3 - SCREW
4 - SPEED SENSOR CABLE

(10) Hold outer C/V joint assembly with one hand.
Grasp steering knuckle with other and rotate it out
and to the rear of the vehicle, until outer C/V joint
clears hub and bearing assembly (Fig. 9).

LH HALFSHAFT 3 - 5

HALFSHAFT (Continued)

Fig. 6 Hub And Bearing To Stub Axle Retaining Nut

1 - HUB/BEARING ASSEMBLY
2 - NUT

Fig. 7 Inner Tripod Joint Removal from Stub Shaft

1 - TRANSMISSION STUB SHAFT
2 - INNER TRIPOD JOINT
3-PRYBAR
4 - TRANSAXLE

Fig. 8 Strut Assembly To Steering Knuckle

Attaching Bolts

1 - STRUT ASSEMBLY
2 - NUTS
3 - STRUT ASSEMBLY TO STEERING KNUCKLE ATTACHING
BOLTS
4 - STEERING KNUCKLE

(11) Remove driveshaft inner tripod joint from

transaxle stub shaft. When removing driveshaft,

do not pull on interconnecting shaft to remove
inner tripod joint from stub shaft. Removal in
this manner will separate the spider assembly
from the tripod joint housing. Grasp inner tri­pod joint (Fig. 10) and interconnecting shaft
and pull on both pieces at the same time.

INSTALLATION

CAUTION: The inboard tripod joint retaining circlip
and O-ring seal (Fig. 11) on the transaxle stub shaft
are not re-usable. Whenever the inboard tripod joint
is removed from the stub shaft, the retaining circlip

Fig. 9 Outer C/V Joint Removal From Hub and

Bearing

1 - STRUT ASSEMBLY
2 - OUTER C/V JOINT
3 - HUB/BEARING ASSEMBLY
4 - FLINGER DISK
5 - STEERING KNUCKLE

and O-ring seal MUST BE REPLACED. The retaining
circlip and O-ring seal is included in all service kits
requiring removal of the inboard tripod joint from
the stub shaft.

3 - 6 HALFSHAFT LH

HALFSHAFT (Continued)

Fig. 12 Grease Applied To Inner Tripod Joint

Fig. 10 Inner Tripod Joint Removal From Stub Shaft

1 - TRANSAXLE
2 - TRANSMISSION STUB SHAFT
3 - INNER TRIPOD JOINT

1 - APPLY 1 MILLILITER BEAD OF GREASE HERE
2 - INNER TRIPOD JOINT HOUSING

Housing Spline

Fig. 11 Tripod Joint Retaining Circlip And O-Ring

Seal

1 - O-RING SEAL
2 - STUB SHAFT
3 - RETAINING CIR CLIP

(1) Replace O-ring seal and tripod joint retaining

circlip (Fig. 11) on the transaxle stub shaft.

(2) Evenly apply a bead of grease, such as Mopar
Multi-Purpose Lubricant or an equivalent, around
spline of inner tripod joint (Fig. 12) where the O-ring
seats against tripod joint. This will spread grease
onto stub shaft during tripod joint installation pre­venting corrosion and help to seal the O-ring.

(3) Install driveshaft through hole in splash shield.
Grasp inner tripod joint in one hand and intercon­necting shaft in the other. Align inner tripod joint
spline with stub shaft spline on transaxle (Fig. 13).
Use a rocking motion with the inner tripod joint, to
get it past the circlip on the transaxle stub shaft.

Fig. 13 Inner Tripod Joint Installation On Stub Shaft

1 - TRANSAXLE
2 - TRANSMISSION STUB SHAFT
3 - INNER TRIPOD JOINT

(4) Continue pushing tripod joint onto transaxle
stub shaft until it stops moving. The O-ring seal on
the stub should not be visible when inner tripod joint
is fully installed on stub shaft. To check that inner

tripod joint retaining circlip is locked into tri­pod joint, grasp inner tripod joint and pull on
it by hand. If circlip is locked into tripod joint,
tripod joint will not move on stub shaft.

CAUTION: When installing outer C/V joint into the
hub and bearing assembly, do not allow the flinger
disk on hub and bearing assembly to become dam­aged. Damage to the flinger disk can cause dirt and
water intrusion into bearing and premature bearing
failure.

LH HALFSHAFT 3 - 7

HALFSHAFT (Continued)

(5) Hold outer C/V joint assembly with one hand.
Grasp steering knuckle with other hand and rotate it
out and to the rear of the vehicle. Install outer C/V
joint into the hub and bearing assembly (Fig. 14).

Fig. 15 Strut Assembly to Steering Knuckle

Attaching Bolts

1 - STRUT ASSEMBLY
2 - NUTS
3 - STRUT ASSEMBLY TO STEERING KNUCKLE ATTACHING
BOLTS
4 - STEERING KNUCKLE

Fig. 14 Outer C/V Joint Installation Into Hub and

Bearing

1 - STRUT ASSEMBLY
2 - OUTER C/V JOINT
3 - HUB/BEARING ASSEMBLY
4 - FLINGER DISK
5 - STEERING KNUCKLE

(6) Install the top of the steering knuckle into the
strut assembly. Align the steering knuckle to strut
assembly mounting holes.

CAUTION: The strut assembly to steering knuckle
bolts are serrated where they go through strut
assembly and steering knuckle. When installing
bolts, turn nuts onto bolts. DO NOT TURN BOLTS
IN STEERING KNUCKLE. If bolts are turned, dam­age to steering knuckle will result.

(7) Install the strut assembly to steering knuckle
attaching bolts. Install nuts on attaching bolts (Fig.

15). Tighten the strut assembly to steering knuckle
bolt nuts to 210 N·m (155 ft. lbs.). TURN NUTS ON

BOLTS. DO NOT TURN BOLTS.

CAUTION: The hub and bearing assembly to stub
shaft retaining nut is a prevailing torque nut and
can not be re-used. A NEW retaining nut MUST be
used when assembled.

(8) Install a NEW retaining nut (Fig. 16).

Tighten, but do not torque the hub nut at this
time.

Fig. 16 Hub And Bearing To Stub Axle Retaining Nut

1 - HUB/BEARING ASSEMBLY
2 - NUT

(9) Install speed sensor cable routing bracket on
front strut assembly. Install and securely tighten
routing bracket screw.

(10) Install the braking disk on the hub and bear­ing assembly (Fig. 17).

(11) Install front brake caliper over braking disc
and align with caliper mounting holes on steering
knuckle (Fig. 18). Install the caliper to steering
knuckle bolts. Tighten bolts to 22 N·m (192 in. lbs.).

3 - 8 HALFSHAFT LH

HALFSHAFT (Continued)

(12) Install wheel and tire assembly on vehicle.
Tighten the wheel mounting stud nuts in proper
sequence (Fig. 19), until all nuts are tightened to half
specification. Then repeat the tightening sequence to
the full specified torque of 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.).

Fig. 17 Installing Brake Rotor

1 - HUB
2 - STEERING KNUCKLE
3 - BRAKE ROTOR (DISC)
4 - WHEEL MOUNTING STUD

Fig. 19 Tightening Wheel Nuts

(13) Lower vehicle to the ground.

CAUTION: When tightening hub and bearing assem­bly to stub shaft retaining nut, do not exceed the
maximum torque of 142 N·m (105 ft. lbs.). If the
maximum torque is exceeded this may result in a
failure of the driveshaft.

(14) Apply the vehicle’s brakes to keep vehicle
from moving. Tighten the NEW stub shaft to hub
and bearing assembly retaining nut to 142 N·m (105
ft. lbs.) (Fig. 20).

Fig. 18 Disc Brake Caliper Mounting

1 - BRAKE SHOES
2 - STEERING KNUCKLE
3 - BRAKING DISC
4 - CALIPER ASSEMBLY
5 - MACHINED ABUTMENT

Fig. 20 Tighten Hub And Bearing Retaining Nut

1 - HUB/BEARING
2 - TORQUE WRENCH

LH HALFSHAFT 3 - 9

HALFSHAFT (Continued)

SPECIFICATIONS

TORQUE

TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS

DESCRIPTION N·m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs.

Bolt, Caliper-to-Knuckle 22 192

Bolt, Knuckle-to-Strut 210 155

Nut, Front Wheel Lug 135 100

Nut, Halfshaft 142 105

Nut, Tie Rod End-to-Knuckle 37 27

SPECIAL TOOLS

DRIVELINE

Boot Clamp Installer C-4975A

CV BOOT-INNER

REMOVAL

To remove sealing boots from halfshafts for
replacement, the halfshaft assemblies must be
removed from the vehicle. (Refer to 3 - DIFFEREN­TIAL & DRIVELINE/HALF SHAFT - REMOVAL)
(Refer to 3 - DIFFERENTIAL & DRIVELINE/HALF
SHAFT - INSTALLATION)

(1) Remove the halfshaft requiring boot replace­ment from the vehicle.

(2) Remove large boot clamp which retains inner
tripod joint sealing boot to tripod joint housing (Fig.

21) and discard. Remove small clamp which retains
inner tripod joint sealing boot to interconnecting
shaft and discard. Remove the sealing boot from the
tripod housing and slide it down the interconnecting
shaft.

CAUTION: When removing the spider joint from the
tripod joint housing. Hold the rollers in place on the
spider trunions to prevent the rollers and needle
bearings from falling away.

Fig. 21 Inner Tripod Joint Sealing Boot Clamps

1 - SMALL CLAMP
2 - SEALING BOOT
3 - LARGE CLAMP
4 - INTERCONNECTING SHAFT
5 - INNER TRIPOD JOINT

(3) Slide the interconnecting shaft and spider

assembly out of the tripod joint housing (Fig. 22).

(4) Remove snap ring which retains spider assem­bly to interconnecting shaft (Fig. 23). Then remove
the spider assembly from interconnecting shaft. If
spider assembly will not come off interconnecting
shaft by hand, it can be removed by tapping the end
of the spider body with a brass drift. Do not hit the

outer tripod bearings in an attempt to remove
spider assembly from interconnecting shaft.

(5) Slide failed sealing boot off the interconnecting
shaft.

(6) Thoroughly clean and inspect spider assembly,
tripod joint housing and interconnecting shaft for any
signs of excessive wear. If any parts show signs of

excessive wear, the halfshaft assembly will
require replacement. Component parts of the
assemblies are not serviceable.

3 - 10 HALFSHAFT LH

CV BOOT-INNER (Continued)

(1) Slide inner tripod joint seal boot retaining
clamp, onto interconnecting shaft. Then slide replace­ment inner tripod joint sealing boot onto the inter­connecting shaft. Inner tripod joint seal boot

MUST be positioned on interconnecting shaft,
so only the thinnest (sight) groove on intercon­necting shaft is visible (Fig. 24).

Fig. 22 Spider Joint Assembly Removal From

Housing

1 - INTERCONNECTING SHAFT
2 - SPIDER ASSEMBLY
3 - TRIPOD JOINT HOUSING

Fig. 23 Spider Assembly Retaining Snap Ring

1 - SNAP RING
2 - SEALING BOOT
3 - SPIDER ASSEMBLY
4 - SNAP RING PLIERS
5 - INTERCONNECTING SHAFT

INSTALLATION

NOTE: The inner tripod joint sealing boots are
made of silicone rubber which is soft and pliable.
The replacement sealing boot MUST BE the same
type of material as the sealing boot which was
removed.

Fig. 24 Seal Boot Correctly Positioned On

Interconnecting Shaft

1 - SEALING BOOT
2 - INTERCONNECTING SHAFT THINNEST GROOVE
3 - INTERCONNECTING SHAFT
4 - BOOT CLAMP

(2) Install the spider assembly onto the intercon­necting shaft. Spider assembly must be installed on
interconnecting shaft far enough to fully install the
retaining snap ring. If spider assembly will not fully
install on interconnecting shaft by hand, it can be
installed by tapping the spider body with a brass
drift. Do not hit the outer tripod bearings in an

attempt to install spider assembly on intercon­necting shaft.

(3) Install the spider assembly to interconnecting
shaft retaining snap ring into groove on end of inter­connecting shaft (Fig. 25). Verify the snap ring is
fully seated into groove on interconnecting shaft.

(4) Distribute 1/2 the amount of grease provided in
the seal boot service package (DO NOT USE ANY
OTHER TYPE OF GREASE) into tripod housing. Put
the remaining amount into the sealing boot.

(5) Slide the spider assembly and the interconnect­ing shaft into the tripod joint housing (Fig. 26).