Celestron ULTIMA 91/4, ULTIMA 11 User Manual

THE CELESTRON ULTIMA 91/4

AND ULTIMA 11

INSTRUCTION MANUAL

Table of Contents

INTRODUCTION......................................................................................................................................... 4

OW TO USE THIS MANUAL ............................................................................................................................ 4

HE SCHMIDT-CASSEGRAIN OPTICAL SYSTEM ................................................................................................ 6

ASSEMBLING YOUR ULTIMA 9

ETTING UP THE TRIPOD.................................................................................................................................. 9

DJUSTING THE TRIPOD HEIGHT.................................................................................................................... 10

NSTALLING THE DELUXE LATITUDE ADJUSTER............................................................................................. 11

Latitude Adjust Assembly Installation....................................................................................................... 11

Azimuth Adjust Assembly Procedure ........................................................................................................ 11

TTACHING WEDGE TO TRIPOD..................................................................................................................... 13

TTACHING THE TELESCOPE TO THE WEDGE................................................................................................. 14

NSTALLING THE FINDER ................................................................................................................................ 15

Attaching the Finder Bracket.................................................................................................................... 15

Attaching the Finder to the Bracket.......................................................................................................... 16

PTIONAL ILLUMINATOR OPERATION ............................................................................................................ 17

Installing the Battery ................................................................................................................................ 17

Operating Information.............................................................................................................................. 17

NSTALLING THE VISUAL ACCESSORIES ......................................................................................................... 18

The Visual Back ........................................................................................................................................ 18

The Star Diagonal..................................................................................................................................... 18

The Eyepieces ........................................................................................................................................... 19

OVING THE TELESCOPE IN R.A. AND DEC.................................................................................................. 19

DJUSTING THE WEDGE ................................................................................................................................ 22

RANSPORTING YOUR ULTIMA TELESCOPE ................................................................................................... 23

TORING YOUR ULTIMA TELESCOPE ............................................................................................................. 24

/4 AND 11........................................................................................... 7

TELESCOPE BASICS ............................................................................................................................... 25

OCUSING ...................................................................................................................................................... 25

LIGNING THE FINDER SCOPE........................................................................................................................ 25

AYTIME OBSERVING.................................................................................................................................... 26

IGHTTIME OBSERVING................................................................................................................................. 26

ALCULATING MAGNIFICATION ..................................................................................................................... 27

ETERMINING FIELD OF VIE W ....................................................................................................................... 27

ENERAL OBSERVING HINTS ......................................................................................................................... 28

ENERAL PHOTOGRAPHY HINTS.................................................................................................................... 28

ASTRONOMY BASICS............................................................................................................................. 30

HE CELESTIAL COORDINATE SYSTEM .......................................................................................................... 30

OTION OF THE STARS .................................................................................................................................. 31

OLAR ALIGNMENT ....................................................................................................................................... 32

Finding the Pole ....................................................................................................................................... 33

Latitude Scales.......................................................................................................................................... 34

Pointing at Polaris.................................................................................................................................... 35

Declination Drift....................................................................................................................................... 36

Aligning the RA Setting Circle.................................................................................................................. 37

USING THE DRIVE................................................................................................................................... 38

OWERING UP THE DRIVE.............................................................................................................................. 38

HE HAND CONTROLLER BUTTONS ............................................................................................................... 39

RACKING RATE SELECTION.......................................................................................................................... 40

ERIODIC ERROR CORRECTION...................................................................................................................... 40

ONNECTORS................................................................................................................................................. 42

HE HAND CONTROLLER ............................................................................................................................... 43

EPLACING THE BATTERY ............................................................................................................................. 43

ROUBLE SHOOTING...................................................................................................................................... 44

CELESTIAL OBSERVING....................................................................................................................... 45

BSERVING THE MOON ................................................................................................................................. 45

Lunar Observing Hints ............................................................................................................................. 45

BSERVING THE PLANETS .............................................................................................................................. 45

Planetary Observing Hints ....................................................................................................................... 45

BSERVING THE SUN ..................................................................................................................................... 45

Solar Observing Hints............................................................................................................................... 46

BSERVING DEEP SKY OBJECTS .................................................................................................................... 46

Using the Setting Circles .......................................................................................................................... 46

Star Hopping............................................................................................................................................. 47

EEING CONDITIONS ...................................................................................................................................... 49

Transparency ............................................................................................................................................ 49

Sky Illumination ........................................................................................................................................ 49

Seeing........................................................................................................................................................ 49

CELESTIAL PHOTOGRAPHY ............................................................................................................... 51

HORT EXPOSURE PRIME FOCUS PHOTOGRAPHY .......................................................................................... 51

IGGYBACK PHOTOGRAPHY........................................................................................................................... 52

YEPIECE PROJECTION................................................................................................................................... 54

Effective Focal Length .............................................................................................................................. 55

Effective Magnification............................................................................................................................. 55

Effective f# or f-ratio................................................................................................................................. 56

ONG EXPOSURE PRIME FOCUS PHOTOGRAPHY ............................................................................................ 56

TELESCOPE MAINTENANCE ............................................................................................................... 58

ARE AND CLEANING OF THE OPTICS ............................................................................................................ 58

OLLIMATION ................................................................................................................................................ 58

OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES .................................................................................................................... 60

THE MESSIER CATALOG...................................................................................................................... 64

LIST OF BRIGHT STARS ........................................................................................................................ 68

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS............................................................................................................ 69

FURTHER READING ............................................................................................................................... 70

INTRODUCTION

Welcome to the Celestron world of amateur astronomy! For more than a quarter of a century, Celestron has provided amateur astronomers with the tools needed to explore the universe. The Ultima series telescopes continue in this proud tradition combining large aperture optics with ease of use and portability. With mirror diameters of 9.25 and 11 inches, your Celestron Ultima 9 1,126 and 1,593 times that of the unaided human eye respectively. Yet, their optical systems are extremely compact and portable despite their large aperture because they utilize the Schmidt-Cassegrain design. This means you can take your Ultima telescope to the mountains or desert or wherever you wish to observe.

The Ultima telescope is made of the highest quality materials to ensure stability and durability. All this adds up to a telescope that gives you a lifetime of pleasure with a minimal amount of maintenance. And, your Ultima telescope is versatile — it grows as your interest in astronomy grows.

But, your Celestron Ultima telescope is not limited to astronomical viewing alone. It can also be used for terrestrial viewing to study the world around you. All you need to do is take the time to familiarize yourself with your Ultima telescope and its operation.

HOW TO USE THIS MANUAL

This manual is designed to instruct you in the proper use of your Celestron Ultima telescope. This includes assembly, initial use, and long term operation and maintenance. There are seven major sections to the manual. The first section covers the proper procedure for setting up your Ultima telescope and includes attaching the standard accessories.

The second section covers basic telescope operation. Topics include focusing, aligning the finder, and taking your first look. The third section deals with the basics of astronomy which includes the celestial coordinate system, the motions of the stars, and polar alignment. The fourth section describes how to use the drive. The fifth section covers visual observing of the Moon, planets, and deep sky objects. The sixth section deals with celestial photography covering all major forms working from the easiest to the most difficult. The last major section is on telescope maintenance, specifically on cleaning and collimation.

After the major sections mentioned above, there is a partial list of optional accessories for the Ultima telescope with a brief description of each and its intended purpose. The final part of this manual contains a list of objects that can be observed through your Celestron Ultima telescope. Included are the coordinates for each object, its brightness, and a code which indicates object type. There is also a list of bright stars for aligning the setting circles.

Read the assembly instructions completely before you attempt to set up your Ultima 9 have set up your Ultima telescope, read the section on "Telescope Basics" before using it outside. This will ensure that you are familiar with your telescope before you use it under a dark sky.

Since it will take a few observing sessions to familiarize yourself with your Ultima telescope, you should keep this manual handy until you have fully mastered your telescope's operation.

Your Ultima telescope is designed to give you hours of fun and rewarding observations. However, there are a few things to consider before using your telescope that will ensure your safety and protect your equipment.

NEVER LOOK DIRECTLY AT THE SUN WITH THE NAKED EYE OR WITH A TELESCOPE. PERMANENT AND IRREVERSIBLE EYE DAMAGE MAY RESULT.

/4 and 11 have a light gathering power of

/4 or 11. Once you

Telescope Basics 4

NEVER USE YOUR TELESCOPE TO PROJECT AN IMAGE OF THE SUN ONTO ANY SURFACE. INTERNAL HEAT BUILD-UP CAN DAMAGE THE TELESCOPE AND/OR ANY ACCESSORIES ATTACHED TO IT.

NEVER USE AN EYEPIECE SOLAR FILTER OR A HERSCHEL WEDGE. INTERNAL HEAT BUILD-UP INSIDE THE TELESCOPE CAN CAUSE THESE DEVICES TO CRACK OR BREAK, ALLOWING UNFILTERED SUNLIGHT TO PASS THROUGH TO THE EYE.

NEVER LEAVE THE TELESCOPE UNSUPERVISED, EITHER WHEN CHILDREN ARE PRESENT OR ADULTS WHO MAY NOT BE FAMILIAR WITH THE CORRECT OPERATING PROCEDURES OF YOUR TELESCOPE.

NEVER POINT YOUR TELESCOPE AT THE SUN UNLESS YOU HAVE THE PROPER SOLAR FILTER. WHEN USING YOUR TELESCOPE WITH THE CORRECT SOLAR FILTER, ALWAYS COVER THE FINDER. ALTHOUGH SMALL IN APERTURE, THIS INSTRUMENT HAS ENOUGH LIGHT GATHERING POWER TO CAUSE PERMANENT AND IRREVERSIBLE EYE DAMAGE. FURTHERMORE, THE IMAGE PROJECTED BY THE FINDER IS HOT ENOUGH TO BURN SKIN OR CLOTHING.

Telescope Basics 5

THE SCHMIDT-CASSEGRAIN OPTICAL SYSTEM

A telescope is an instrument that collects and focuses light. The nature of the optical design determines how the light is focused. Some telescopes, known as refractors, use lenses while others, known as reflectors, use mirrors. The Schmidt-Cassegrain optical system (or Schmidt-Cass for short) uses a combination of mirrors and lenses and is referred to as a compound or catadioptric telescope. This unique design offers large diameter optics while maintaining very short tube lengths, making them extremely portable. The Schmidt-Cassegrain system consists of a zero power corrector plate, a spherical primary mirror, and a convex secondary mirror. Once light rays enter the optical system, they travel the length of the optical tube three times.

Inside the optical tube you will notice a black tube (not illustrated) that extends out from the center hole in the primary mirror. This is the primary baffle tube and it prevents stray light from passing through to the eyepiece or camera without striking the primary or secondary mirrors.

Figure 1-1 This cross-sectional diagram shows the light path of the Schmidt-Cassegrain optical system. Note that the light rays travel the length of the telescope tube three times, making this a compact optical design. Note that the curve of the corrector plate is greatly exaggerated

Telescope Basics 6

ASSEMBLING YOUR ULTIMA 91/4 AND 11

The Ultima 9

/4 and 11 are heavy-duty, fork mounted telescopes that uses a single motor Byers worm gear drive and a 2-5/8" tapered polar shaft. For easy transportation, the Ultima telescopes have three carrying handles; one on each fork tine and one on the rear cell. In addition, the Ultima comes standard with Starbright increased reflectivity. Also, the corrector plate is fully coated to allow maximum light transmission. The Ultima 9

coatings, an enhanced multi-layer aluminum coating on the primary and secondary mirrors for

/4 (#11035 ) and the Ultima 11 (#11044) are shipped in four boxes. One contains the telescope

with most of the standard accessories, which are:

• 26mm Plössl Ocular 1-1/4" (Ultima 11)

• 25mm SMA Ocular 1-1/4” (Ultima 9

/4)

• Visual Back 1-1/4"

• Reducer Plate (Ultima 11)

• Star Diagonal, Prism 1-1/4"

• Deluxe Latitude Adjuster Upgrade Kit (DLA)

• 7x50mm Polaris Finderscope with Bracket (Ultima 11)

• 6x30mm Finderscope with bracket (Ultima 9

/4)

• Lens Cap

• Bolt Pack

• Allen Wrench

The second and third boxes contain the wedge and tripod which are also standard accessories. The Deluxe Latitude Adjuster is not installed on the wedge. The fourth box contains additional accessories not included inside the telescope case.

Both telescopes come with a heavy-duty wedge and an 1

/4" star diagonal. The assembly procedure for both scopes is identical. The differences between these models are the optical tube assemblies. The Ultima telescope should be set up indoors the first time so that it is easy to identify the various parts and familiarize yourself with the correct assembly procedure before attempting it outdoors.

Remove the wedge, tripod and telescope from their respective boxes. Remove all the accessories as well, which are located in the box with the telescope. Since all parts are completely assembled, all you need to do is attach the wedge to the tripod and the telescope to the wedge. Provided are two bolt packs (each containing three bolts) for this purpose. Locate each pack and you are ready to begin.

Use the diagram on the following page (figure 2-1) to familiarize yourself with the various parts of your telescope. When setting up your Ultima telescope, you must start with the tripod and work up from there.

Telescope Basics 7

Figure 2-1 The Ultima telescope completely assembled. Use this illustration, and others throughout this manual, to familiarize yourself with the various parts of your Ultima 9

/4 or Ultima 11 telescope.

Telescope Basics 8

SETTING UP THE TRIPOD

For maximum rigidity, the Celestron field tripod has a leg support bracket. This bracket fits snugly against the tripod legs, increasing stability while reducing vibration and flexure. However, the tripod is shipped with each arm of the leg support bracket in between the legs so the tripod legs can collapse. To set up the tripod:

1. Hold the tripod with the head up and the legs pointed toward the ground.

2. Pull the legs away from the central column until they will not separate any further. A small stop on the top of each tripod leg presses against the tripod head to indicate maximum separation.

3. Rotate the tension knob (located underneath the support bracket on the central column) clockwise until it is close to the bottom of the central column.

4. Turn the leg support bracket until the cups on the end of each bracket are directly underneath each leg.

5. Rotate the tension knob counterclockwise until the bracket is secure against the tripod legs. Do not over tighten.

The tripod will now stand by itself. Once the wedge and telescope are attached to the tripod, readjust the tension knob to ensure that the leg support bracket is snug. Once again, do not over tighten!

Telescope Basics 9

ADJUSTING THE TRIPOD HEIGHT

The tripod that comes with your Ultima telescope is adjustable. To adjust the height at which the tripod stands:

1. Loosen the extension clamp on one of the tripod legs (see figure 2-3).

2. Extend the leg to the desired height.

3. Tighten the extension clamp to hold the leg in place.

4. Repeat this process for each of the remaining legs.

You can do this while the tripod legs are still folded together.

Remember that the higher the tripod legs are extended, the less stable it is. For casual observing, this may not pose a problem. However, if you plan on doing photography, the tripod should be set low to ensure stability. A recommended height is to set the tripod in such a manner that you can look directly into the eyepiece on the telescope with a diagonal while seated.

Telescope Basics 10

INSTALLING THE DELUXE LATITUDE ADJUSTER

Latitude Adjust Assembly Installation.

• Remove the screws marked A in figure 2-5 from both sides of the wedge.

• Place the wedge in front of you upright and with the Celestron logo facing you. Place the wedge on its

left side. There should be a hole right next to the fourth hex head screw. This is where the azimuth adjust screw will go. Loosen all of the hex head screws on the side of the wedge which is upright now. Loosen them about three turns. There is no need to remove them completely.

• On the back of the tilt plate there are four 1/4-20 tapped holes. Place an angle bracket on the lower set

of holes with the bracket facing up. Use two of the 1/4-20 screws to attach the bracket.

• Take the latitude adjust assembly, shown in figure 2-4, and place one end of the swivel pin in the hole

of the mounted angle bracket. Now take the second angle bracket and slip it over the exposed side of the swivel pin and mount the bracket.

• The crossbar needs to be adjusted so that it lines up with and slips into the recess on the inside of the

wedge side plate. Rotate the cross bar on the adjust screw until it approximately lines up with the recess on the lower side of the wedge. This is the one inch diameter counter sunk hole that looks silver since it is not coated. It is facing up at you since the wedge is on its side.

• Since the upper plate is loose it can be moved to allow the crosssbar to fit into place. The upper and

lower ends of the crossbar should fit into the recesses on the sides of the wedge. If the top side doesn't quite fit, rotate the adjust screw till it does.

• Tighten all the screws of the side plate and replace the screws marked A being sure to tighten down the

slotted Latitude Support Arms in figure 2-5. Be sure the nylon washers are between the Latitude Support Arms and the side of the wedge.

Azimuth Adjust Assembly Procedure

• Remove the block assembly from the threaded rod of the Azimuth Adjust Assembly.

• Remove the collar from the threaded rod by loosening the set screw.

• Attach the block assembly to the bottom of the baseplate of the wedge using the 10-24 x 3/4” screw.

The tapped hole should be facing the toward the left side of the wedge if the wedge is upside down. Do not tighten the screw all the way. The block assembly should be able to slide back and forth.

• Put one nylon washer on the threaded rod and place the rod through the hole on the side of the wedge.

• Once the threaded rod is through the side of the wedge, place the other nylon washer on and then the

lock collar on.

• Now thread the threaded rod into the tapped hole on the side of the block assembly.

• Push the handle of the threaded rod flush against the side of the wedge and place the lock collar against

the inside of the wedge.

• Tighten the set-screw in the collar.

• Now if you rotate the threaded rod, the block assembly should move. If it is hard to rotate, then loosen

the screw holding the block assembly to the baseplate of the wedge.

Telescope Basics 11

Figure 2-4: Upgrade Kit for the Heavy Duty Wedge

Figure 2-5: Upgrade Kit installed on the Heavy Duty Wedge

Telescope Basics 12

ATTACHING WEDGE TO TRIPOD

Your Ultima 9 move across the sky from east to west. This drive is useless, however, unless the telescope’s axis of rotation is parallel to the Earth’s axis. The wedge, which comes standard with both telescopes, allows you to tilt the Ultima’s axis of rotation. This process is known as polar alignment and is described in the section by the same name. The wedge, like the tripod, is fully assembled and only needs to be attached to the tripod.

The tripod has six holes on its base for mounting equipment. Three of the holes are threaded with 5/16-18 threads and three of the holes are open. The three open holes are for mounting a different telescope in the Celestron line. To mount a wedge to the tripod, the three threaded holes are used. But, since you are using the wedge with the Deluxe Latitude Adjuster kit (included with the Ultima 9 adjusting knob will hit one of the legs of the tripod. Because of this, the wedge needs to be rotated on the tripod 120º. Inserts are provided with the wedge which fit into the open holes in the tripod head. The inserts are threaded inside.

To attach the wedge to the tripod:

1. Place the black inserts in the open holes from underneath

2. Hold the wedge over the center post in the tripod. Rotate the wedge so the through holes of the

3. Insert the three 5/16-18x1 socket head cap screws and washers through the slotted holes in the

4. Tighten the bolts until the wedge does not move from side-to-side. These can be loosened later for

/4 and Ultima 11 telescopes have a clock drive built into the base to track the stars as they

/4 and 11) the azimuth

the tripod head. The inserts fit into the

tripod with the flange end down (see Figure2-5b).

wedge line up with the threaded inserts in the tripod head. Notice that there is a pin on the bottom of the wedge which protrudes from the azimuth adjusting block. The pin fits into one of the existing threaded holes. You may need to rotate the wedge slightly back-and-forth to get the azimuth block pin to fall into the existing threaded hole on the head of the tripod.

wedge and into the tripod head.

polar alignment.

Figure 2-5a

Top view of tripod head

Figure 2-5b

Front view of wedge and tripod head

Telescope Basics 13

ATTACHING THE TELESCOPE TO THE WEDGE

With the wedge in place on the tripod, you are ready to mount the telescope on the wedge. The telescope base fits directly onto the tilt plate of the wedge. Attaching the telescope to the wedge is the same for both the Ultima 9

1. Lay the telescope on its side and locate the three threaded holes in the bottom of the drive base.

2. Partially insert one of the three (3/8-16x1) bolts with the hand tightening knob (supplied in the bolt

3. Pick the telescope up by the fork tines and position it above the wedge. Orient it so that the

4. Slide the bolt, which is threaded into the base, into the slot on the top of the tilt plate.

5. Tighten the bolt slightly so that the bottom of the drive base is flush with the tilt plate. Do not

6. Move the base of the telescope until the two remaining holes in the drive base line up with the

7. Insert the two remaining bolts with knobs and tighten all three completely.

/4 and the Ultima 11 telescopes. To do this:

pack) into the hole that is opposite the rectangular portion of the drive base. The rectangular portion of the base slides between the side plates on the wedge and rest near the top of the tripod.

telescope is over the tripod with the base pointing toward the tilt plate as seen in figure 2-6.

tighten it fully or you will not be able to slide the base so that the other two bolts can be inserted. (If you do not tighten the bolt at all, the drive base may be tilted slightly so that the remaining bolts will not go in straight.)

holes in the tilt plate.

Figure 2-6 - With the hand tightening bolt installed in the drive base, slide the Ultima telescope onto the tilt plate of the wedge.

Telescope Basics 14

INSTALLING THE FINDER

The Ultima 9

/4 comes with a 6x30 finderscope which has an 7° field-of-view. The Ultima 11 comes with a 7x50 finder, which has a 5° field of view. The specifications for a finderscope, 6x30 or 7x50, stand for the magnification and the aperture, in millimeters, of the scope. So, a 6x30 finder magnifies six times and has a 30mm objective lens.

A finder helps you locate and center objects in the main field of your Ultima telescope. The Polaris 7x50 finder serves a dual purpose. First, it is used as a regular finder to help you locate and center objects in the main field of your Ultima 11. Second, if you purchase the optional Illuminator (51614-IL) and the Polaris Guiding Plate (60121), it can be used to polar align your telescope. To accomplish this, the finder has a built-in reticle that indicates the distance between the North Star, Polaris, and the true celestial pole. The Guide Plate is used to show the exact position of Polaris on the reticle for the date and time you are observing.

To ensure that the finder and bracket are not damaged during shipping, they are not attached to the telescope at the factory. Start by removing the finder and hardware from the plastic wrapper. Included are the following:

Ultima 9

• 6x30mm Finderscope

• Rubber O-Ring

• Three Nylon Thumbscrews (10-24x1/2)

• Two Allen Head Screws (10-24x5/8)

Ultima 11

• 7x50mm Finderscope

• Reticle Housing with Eyepiece

• Rubber O-Ring

• Three Nylon Thumbscrews (10-24x1/2)

• Two Allen Head Screws (10-24x5/8")

Mounting the finder is a two-step process and is the same for the Ultima 9 bracket to the telescope, then mount the finder in the bracket.

/4 and 11. First you mount the

Attaching the Finder Bracket

1. Find the two holes in the rear cell of the telescope on the top left, when looking from the back of the tube.

2. Remove the tape covering the two holes. The tape is there to prevent dust and moisture from entering the optical tube before the finder is installed.

3. Place the finder bracket over the two holes. Orient the bracket so that the rings that hold the finder are over the telescope tube, not the rear cell.

4. Insert the screws through the bracket and into the rear cell.

WARNING: If you remove the finderscope, do not thread the screws back into the rear cell of the telescope. The screws are long enough to obstruct the movement of, and possibly chip the primary mirror.

Telescope Basics 15

Attaching the Finder to the Bracket

With the bracket firmly attached to the telescope, you are ready to attach the finder to the bracket.

1. Thread the three nylon screws into the front ring of the finder bracket. Tighten the screws until the nylon heads are flush with the inner diameter of the bracket ring. Do NOT thread them in completely or they will interfere with the placement of the finder.

2. Slide the O-Ring over the back of the finder-it may need to be stretched a little.

3. Position the O-Ring on the main body of the finder so that it is toward the front (i.e., objective) end of the finder.

4. Slide the end of the finder where the eyepiece mounts into the front of the bracket. Push it back until the end of the finder, where the eyepiece attaches, is past the back ring of the bracket , but NOT so far that the O-Ring is snug inside the back ring.

5. Slide the O-Ring toward the back(i.e., eyepiece end) of the finder.

6. Push the finder back until the O-Ring is snug inside the back ring of the finder bracket.

7. Hand tighten the three nylon-tipped thumbscrews until snug.

Figure 2-7

Telescope Basics 16

OPTIONAL ILLUMINATOR OPERATION

Installing the Battery

(only applies to 7x50 finder)

As mentioned previously, the reticle in the finder is used for polar alignment. To help you see the reticle at night, there is an illuminator with a red Light Emitting Diode (LED). The illuminator comes with two camera batteries (LR44). To install the batteries:

1. Remove the top of the illuminator housing by rotating it in the “off” direction.

2. Insert the batteries with the negative (-) end first.

3. Thread the top of the illuminator back on.

4. Turn the knurled knob on the end of the illuminator in the “ON” direction to make sure the batteries were installed correctly. If the LED illuminates, turn the knurled knob in the “OFF” direction to conserve power. If the LED does not illuminate, remove the cover and flip the batteries 180°.

For replacement purposes, the correct batteries are Toshiba LR44 or equivalent.

Operating Information

• The brightness of the reticle can be varied by turning the “ON/OFF” knob on the end of the illuminator

housing. Once the knob clicks, the LED is on. To increase the brightness, continue turning the knob in the “ON” direction.

• To insert the illuminator into the reticle housing, turn the thumbscrew on the reticle ring until it no

longer obstructs the inner diameter of the ring. Insert the LED end of the illuminator and tighten the thumbscrew on the reticle ring to hold it in place.

• To focus the reticle, turn the top portion of the eyepiece (on the reticle housing) until sharp. The

direction may vary depending upon your eyesight.

• To focus the finder, loosen the knurled locking ring on the front of the finder and rotate the objective

lens housing until the image is sharp. Tighten the locking ring to ensure that the finder stays in focus. The finder is preset for infinity focus.

The correct procedure for using the reticle is described in the section on “Polar Alignment.”

Telescope Basics 17

INSTALLING THE VISUAL ACCESSORIES

Installing the oculars and other visual accessories is the same for both the Ultima 9 difference is that the rear cell, for the Ultima 11, is 3.290 inches in diameter and requires a reducer plate. The reducer plate adapts the rear cell to the Celestron two inch standard. The Ultima 11 comes with the reducer plate installed.

The Visual Back

The visual back allows you to attach most visual accessories to the telescope. If you use an 1-1/4" star diagonal or if you want to insert the eyepiece into the telescope without a diagonal, then the visual back attaches to the standard 2 inch rear cell on the back of the telescope (see figure 2-8). To attach the visual back:

1. Remove the protective cap from the back of your telescope. It is pressed onto the rear cell.

2. Place the slip ring on the visual back over the threads on the rear cell.

3. Tighten by rotating the slip ring clockwise until tight.

Once this is done, you are ready to attach other accessories such as eyepieces, and diagonal prisms. If you want to remove the visual back, rotate the slip ring counterclockwise until it is free of the rear cell.

Figure 2-8

2. Slide the chrome portion of the star diagonal into the visual back.

3. Tighten the thumbscrew on the visual back to hold the star diagonal in place.

If you wish to change the orientation of the star diagonal, loosen the thumbscrew on the visual back until the diagonal rotates freely. Rotate the diagonal to the desired position and tighten the thumbscrew.

/4 and the 11. The only

The Star Diagonal

The star diagonal is a prism that diverts the light at a right angle from the light path of the telescope. For astronomical observing, this allows you to observe in positions that are more comfortable than if you were to look straight through. To attach the star diagonal:

1. Turn the thumbscrew on the visual back until its tip no longer extends into (i.e., obstructs) the inner diameter of the visual back.

Telescope Basics 18

The Eyepieces

The eyepiece, or ocular, is the optical element that magnifies the image focused by the telescope. The eyepiece fits either into the visual back directly or into the star diagonal. To install an eyepiece:

1. Loosen the thumbscrew on the star diagonal so that it does not obstruct the inner diameter of the eyepiece end of the diagonal.

2. Slide the chrome portion of the eyepiece into the star diagonal.

3. Tighten the thumbscrew on the

Figure 2-9

In addition to barrel diameter, eyepieces are also referred to in terms of their focal length. The focal length of each eyepiece is printed on the eyepiece barrel. The longer the focal length (i.e., the larger the number), the lower the eyepiece power and the shorter the focal length (i.e., the smaller the number), the higher the magnification. Generally, you will use low-to-moderate power when viewing. For more information on how to determine power, see the section on “Calculating Magnification.”

Barrel diameter is the diameter of the barrel that slides into the star diagonal. Standard barrel diameters are .96”, 1.25”, and 2”. The Ultima 9

/4 and 11 come standard for use with 1.25” barrel eyepieces.

To remove the eyepiece, loosen the thumbscrew on the star diagonal and slide the eyepiece out.

diagonal to hold the eyepiece in place.

MOVING THE TELESCOPE IN R.A. AND DEC

Once set up, you will need to move your telescope to different objects. To make rough adjustments, loosen the R.A. and DEC slow motion clamps and move the telescope in the desired direction (see figure 2-9). Do not move the wedge and tripod, only the telescope optical tube. Once in place, lock the R.A. and DEC clamps to hold the telescope in place.

For fine adjustments, use the R.A. and DEC slow motion knobs. If you are making an adjustment in declination, simply turn the declination knob (see figure 2-11). The DEC clamp does not have to be loosened. Once you have located the desired target, stop turning the DEC knob. If the DEC knob will not turn, the DEC tangent arm has most likely reached the end of the threaded rod (see figure 2-11). To correct this, turn the DEC knob in the opposite direction until the tangent arm is in the center of the fork tine (look at the inside of the fork tine). Release the DEC clamp and re-center the object you were looking at. Tighten the DEC clamp and the DEC slow motion knob will again allow fine adjustments.

Note that adjustments to the DEC axis indicate inaccurate polar alignment. To minimize adjustments to this axis, accurate alignment should be done before observing (see the section on “Polar Alignment”).

Telescope Basics 19

For fine adjustments in R.A., release the R.A. clamp until the R.A. knob rotates freely. Turn the R.A. knob until the desired object is centered (see figure 2-12). Once centered, tighten the R.A. clamp. The clamp must be sufficiently locked for the drive motor to engage and move the telescope.

Do not force the R.A. knob to turn when the R.A. clamp is fully engaged. This may strip the R.A. pinion. In addition, do not force the fork mount to swivel when the r.a. clamp is fully engaged. This may damage the drive base.

Figure 2-10

Telescope Basics 20

Figure 2-11 Fine adjustments in declination are made using either of the DEC Slow Motion Knobs. If the knobs will not turn in the desired direction, then the DEC tangent arm has most likely reached the end of the rod. See the text for instructions on fixing this situation.

Figure 2-12 Slight adjustments in R.A. are done by turning the R.A. Slow Motion Knob. In order to turn the R.A. Slow Motion Knob, the R.A. clamp must be disengaged.

Telescope Basics 21

ADJUSTING THE WEDGE

In order for the clock drive to track accurately, the telescope's axis of rotation must be parallel to the Earth's axis of rotation. The process of making these two axes parallel is called polar alignment. Polar alignment is achieved NOT by moving the telescope in R.A. or DEC, but by moving the wedge. For the purpose of polar alignment, the wedge can be adjusted in two directions; vertically, which is called altitude and horizontally, which is called azimuth. Once aligned, the wedge should not be moved for the rest of the observing session. Once the wedge is locked and the scope is polar aligned, changes in the direction the telescope is pointing are made by moving the telescope in right ascension and declination. This section simply covers the correct movement of the telescope during the polar alignment process. The actual process of polar alignment, that is making the telescope's axis of rotation parallel to the Earth's, is described later in this manual in the section on "Polar Alignment."

To adjust the wedge in altitude:

1. Slightly loosen the bolts that hold the tilt plate.

2. Turn the altitude adjustment screw clockwise to raise the polar axis and counterclockwise to lower the polar axis.

3. Tighten the bolts on the side of the wedge that hold the tilt plate once in the desired position.

To move the telescope in azimuth:

1. Loosen the three bolts that hold the wedge to the tripod.

2. Turn the azimuth adjustment handle on the side of the wedge.

3. Tighten the bolts that hold the wedge to the tripod once in the desired position.

For rough adjustments, move the tripod.

Once the appropriate adjustments have been made and you are aligned on the celestial pole, turn the clock drive on and the telescope will track.

Keep in mind that adjusting the wedge is done during the polar alignment process only. Once aligned, the wedge and tripod must NOT be moved. Pointing the telescope is done by moving the telescope in right ascension and declination, as described in the previous section.

Telescope Basics 22

Figure 2-13

The Ultima Wedge

TRANSPORTING YOUR ULTIMA TELESCOPE

Because of the Ultima’s size and weight, you should ALWAYS remove the telescope and fork tines from the wedge before moving the telescope. To do so:

1. Remove the two lower bolts that hold the drive base to the wedge.

2. Partially loosen the top bolt that holds the drive base to the tilt plate.

3. Hold the telescope by the handles on the fork arms.

4. Slide the telescope up, off of the wedge.

The tripod and wedge can now be carried outside separately and the telescope reattached. If you are planning a trip to a remote site, return your telescope to its case.

Since the wedge does not interfere with the tripod, the wedge can be left in place once firmly attached. This holds true even if you are transporting your telescope to a remote dark sky observing site. The tripod legs collapse and fold back together with the wedge in place. The only time you may want to remove the wedge is if you plan on shipping your Ultima via a common carrier. If this is the case, you should return the wedge and tripod to their original shipping cartons.

Telescope Basics 23

STORING YOUR ULTIMA TELESCOPE

When not in use, your Ultima telescope can be left fully assembled and set up. However, all lens and eyepiece covers should be put back in place. This will reduce the amount of dust build-up on all optical surfaces and reduce the number of times you need to clean the instrument. You may want to return everything to its original shipping container and store it there. If this is the case, all optical surfaces should still be covered to prevent dust accumulation.

Telescope Basics 24

TELESCOPE BASICS

Once your telescope is fully assembled, you are ready for your first look. This section deals with some of the basics of telescope operation.

The image orientation changes depending on how the eyepiece is inserted into the telescope. When using the star diagonal, the image is right-side-up, but reversed from left-to-right. If inserting the eyepiece directly into the visual back (i.e., without the star diagonal), the image is upside-down and reversed from left-to-right (i.e., inverted). This is normal for the Schmidt-Cassegrain design. These orientations apply to the telescope’s finder as well.

FOCUSING

The Celestron Ultima focusing mechanism controls the primary mirror which is mounted on a ring that slides back and forth on the primary baffle tube. The focusing knob, which moves the primary mirror, is on the rear cell of the telescope just right of the star diagonal and eyepiece. Turn the focusing knob until the image is sharp. If the knob will not turn, it has reached the end of its travel on the focusing mechanism. Turn the knob in the opposite direction until the image is sharp. Once an image is in focus, turn the knob clockwise to focus on a closer object and counterclockwise for a more distant object. A single turn of the focusing knob moves the primary mirror only slightly. Therefore, it will take many turns (about 40) to go from close focus to infinity.

For astronomical viewing, out of focus star images are very diffuse making them difficult, if not impossible, to see. If you turn the focus knob too quickly, you can go right through focus without seeing the image. To avoid this problem, your first astronomical target should be a bright object (like the Moon or a planet) so that the image is visible even when out of focus.

Critical focusing is best accomplished when the focusing knob is turned in such a manner that the mirror moves against the pull of gravity. In doing so, any mirror shift is minimized. For astronomical observing, both visually and photographically, this is done by turning the focus knob counterclockwise.

ALIGNING THE FINDER SCOPE

The Ultima 9 finderscope helps you aim the main telescope at distant objects that would be hard to find in the narrow field of the main optics. The first number used to describe the finder is the power or magnification while the second number is the diameter of the objective lens in millimeters. For example, the Ultima 11 finder is 7x50. This means it is 7 power and has a 50mm objective lens. Incidentally, power is always compared to the unaided human eye. So a 7 power finder magnifies images seven times more than the human eye. To make the alignment process a little easier, you should perform this task in the daytime when it is easier to locate objects in the telescope without the finder. To align the finder:

/4 comes with a 6x30 finderscope and the Ultima 11 comes with a 7x50mm finderscope. A

1. Choose a conspicuous object that is in excess of one mile away. This will eliminate any possible parallax effect between the telescope and the finder.

2. Point your telescope at the object you selected and center it in the main optics of the telescope.

Telescope Basics 25

3. Lock the R.A. and DEC clamps to hold the telescope in place.

4. Check the finder to see where the object is located in the field of view.

5. Adjust the screws on the finder bracket, tightening one while loosening another, until cross hairs are centered on the target.

6. Tighten each set screw a quarter of a turn to ensure that they will not come loose easily.

The image orientation, through the finder scope is inverted (i.e., upside down and reversed from left-toright). Because of this, it may take a few minutes to familiarize yourself with the directional change each screw has on the finder.

With the telescope fully assembled and all the accessories attached, you are ready for your first look. Your first look should be done in the daytime when it is easier to locate the locking clamps and slow motion knobs. This will help to familiarize you with your Ultima, thus making it easier to use at night.

DAYTIME OBSERVING

As mentioned in the introduction, your Celestron Ultima telescope works well as a terrestrial spotting scope. When not used to examine objects in the night sky, it can be used to study objects here on Earth.

WARNING ! NEVER POINT YOUR TELESCOPE AT THE SUN UNLESS YOU HAVE THE PROPER SOLAR FILTER. PERMANENT AND IRREVERSIBLE EYE DAMAGE MAY RESULT AS WELL AS DAMAGE TO YOUR TELESCOPE.

1. Find a distant object that is fairly bright.

2. Insert a low power eyepiece (one with a large focal length 30mm) into the telescope.

3. Release the R.A. and DEC clamps and point the telescope in the direction of the object you selected.

4. Locate the object in your finder.

5. Move the telescope by hand until the object is centered in the finder.

6. Lock the R.A. and DEC clamps to hold the telescope in place.

7. Look through the main optics and the object will be there (if you aligned the finder first).

8. Use the slow motion knobs to center the object if needed. Remember, you should not use the drive for terrestrial viewing.

Try using different eyepieces to see how the field changes with various magnifications.

NIGHTTIME OBSERVING

Looking at objects in the sky is quite different than looking at objects on Earth. For example, many objects seen in the daytime are easy to see with the naked eye and can be located in the telescope by using landmarks. In the night sky, many objects are not visible to the naked eye. To make things easier, you are better off starting with a bright object like the Moon or one of the planets. Here is a quick description to get you started. A more detailed description is found under the section on “Visual Observing.”

Telescope Basics 26

1. Orient the telescope so that the polar axis is pointing as close to true north as possible. (The fork arms indicate which direction the polar axis is pointing.) You can use a land mark that you know faces north to get you in the general direction.

2. Shim the legs until the cross level bubbles indicate the mount is level.

3. Adjust the wedge in altitude until the latitude indicator points to the latitude of the site from which you are observing.

4. Insert a low power eyepiece (i.e., one with a large focal length 30mm) into the telescope to give you the widest field possible.

5. Turn the clock drive on.

6. Loosen the right ascension and declination clamps and point the telescope at the desired target. The Moon or one of the brighter planets is an ideal first target.

7. Locate the object in the finder, center it, and then look through the telescope.

8. Turn the focus knob until the image is sharp.

Take your time and study your subject. If observing at the Moon, look for small details in the craters.

That’s all there is to using your Celestron Ultima. However, do not limit your view of an object to a single eyepiece. After a few minutes, try using a different optional eyepiece, a more powerful one. This gives you an idea of how the field of view changes. Center your target and focus. If observing the Moon you will be looking at a few craters at one time.

NOTE: If not using the clock drive, the stars will appear to drift out of the field of view. This is due

to the Earth’s rotation. In fact, anything in the sky, day or night, will drift out of the field unless the telescope has been polar aligned and the clock drive is running. More on this in the section on “Polar Alignment.”

CALCULATING MAGNIFICATION

You can change the power of your Celestron Ultima telescope just by changing the eyepiece (ocular). Eyepieces are an optional accessory that can be purchased through Celestron. See the section “Optional Accessories” in this manual for further information.

To determine the magnification of your Celestron Telescope, simply divide the focal length of the telescope by the focal length of the eyepiece used. In equation format, the formula looks like this:

Let’s say, for example, that you are using a 26mm eyepiece. To determine the magnification you simply divide the focal length of your Celestron Telescope (let us use the Ultima 11 which has a focal length of 2800mm) by the focal length of the eyepiece (26mm). Dividing 2800 by 26 yields a magnification of 108 power.

Although the power is variable, each instrument under average skies has a limit to the highest useful magnification. The general rule is that 60 power can be used for every inch of aperture. For example, the Celestron Ultima 11 is 11" in diameter. Multiplying 11 by 60 gives a maximum useful magnification of 660 power. Although this is the maximum useful magnification, most observing is done in the range of 20 to 35 power for every inch of aperture which is 220 to 385 times for the Ultima 11 and 185 to 324 for the Ultima

/4.

DETERMINING FIELD OF VIEW

Telescope Basics 27

Determining the field of view is important if you want to get an idea of the angular size of the object you are observing. To calculate the actual field of view, divide the apparent field of the eyepiece (supplied by the eyepiece manufacturer) by the magnification. In equation format, the formula looks like this:

Apparent Field of Eyepiece True Field = ———————————— Magnification

As you can see, before determining the field of view, you must calculate the magnification. Using the example in the previous section, we can determine the field of view using the same 26mm eyepiece. The 26mm eyepiece has an apparent field of view of 50°. Divide the 50° by the magnification, which is 93 power. This yields an actual field of .46°, or a little under a half of a degree.

To convert degrees to feet at 1,000 yards, which is more useful for terrestrial observing, simply multiply by

52.5. Continuing with our example, multiply the angular field .46° by 52.5. This produces a linear field

width of 24.3 feet at a distance of one thousand yards.

The apparent field of each eyepiece that Celestron manufactures is found in the Celestron Accessory Catalog (#93685).

GENERAL OBSERVING HINTS

When working with any optical instrument, there are few things to remember to ensure you get the best possible image.

• Never look through window glass. Glass found in household windows is optically imperfect, and as a result, may vary in thickness from one part of a window to the next. This inconsistency can and will affect the ability to focus your telescope. In most cases you will not be able to achieve a truly sharp image, while in some cases, you may actually see a double image.

• Never look across or over objects that are producing heat waves. This includes asphalt parking lots on hot summer days or building rooftops.

• Hazy skies, fog, and mist can also make it difficult to focus when viewing terrestrially. The amount of detail seen under these conditions is greatly reduced. Also, when photographing under these conditions, the processed film may come out a little grainier than normal with lower contrast and underexposed.

• When using your telescope as a telephoto lens, the split screen or microprism focuser of the 35mm SLR camera may “black out.” This is common with all long focal length lenses. If this happens, use the ground glass portion of your focusing screen. To achieve a very sharp focus you may consider using a focusing magnifier. (These are readily available from your local camera store.)

• If you wear corrective lenses (specifically glasses), you may want to remove them when observing with an eyepiece attached to the telescope. When using a camera, however, you should always wear corrective lenses to ensure the sharpest possible focus. If you have astigmatism, corrective lenses must be worn at all times.

GENERAL PHOTOGRAPHY HINTS

Your Celestron Ultima telescope can be used for both terrestrial and astronomical photography. Your Celestron Ultima telescope has a fixed aperture and, as a result, a fixed f/ratio. To properly expose your

Telescope Basics 28

subjects photographically you need to set your shutter speed accordingly. Most 35mm single lens reflex (SLR) cameras offer through-the-lens metering which lets you know if your picture is under or overexposed. This is more of a consideration when doing terrestrial photography, where exposure times are measured in fractions of a second. This also applies to lunar photography and filtered solar photography. In deep-sky astrophotography, the exposures are much longer, requiring that you use the ‘B’ setting on your camera. The actual exposure time is determined by how long you keep the shutter open.

To reduce vibration when tripping the shutter, use a cable release. Releasing the shutter manually can cause vibration, which produces blurred photos. A cable release allows you to keep your hands clear of the camera and telescope, thus reducing the possibility of shaking the telescope. Mechanical cable releases can be used, though air type releases are best.

Telescope Basics 29

ASTRONOMY BASICS

Up to this point, the Ultima 91/4 and 11 manual covered the assembly and basic operation of your Ultima telescope. However, to use your telescope effectively, you need to know a little about the night sky. This section deals with observational astronomy in general and includes information on the night sky and polar alignment.

THE CELESTIAL COORDINATE SYSTEM

To help find objects in the sky, astronomers use a celestial coordinate system that is similar to our geographical coordinate system here on Earth. The celestial coordinate system has poles, lines of longitude and latitude, and an equator. For the most part, these remain fixed against the background stars.

The celestial equator runs 360 degrees around the Earth and separates the northern celestial hemisphere from the southern. Like the Earth's equator, it bears a reading of zero degrees. On Earth this would be latitude. However, in the sky this is referred to as declination, or DEC for short. Lines of declination are named for their angular distance above and below the celestial equator. The lines are broken down into degrees, minutes of arc, and seconds of arc. Declination readings south of the equator carry a minus sign (-) in front of the coordinate and those north of the celestial equator are either blank (i.e., no designation) or preceded by a plus sign (+).

The celestial equivalent of longitude is called Right Ascension, or R.A. for short. Like the Earth's lines of longitude, they run from pole to pole and are evenly spaced 15 degrees apart. Although the longitude lines are separated by an angular distance, they are also a measure of time. Each line of longitude is one hour apart from the next. Since the Earth rotates once every 24 hours, there are 24 lines total. As a result, the R.A. coordinates are marked off in units of time. It begins with an arbitrary point in the constellation of Pisces designated as 0 hours, 0 minutes, 0 seconds. All other points are designated by how far (i.e., how long) they lag behind this coordinate after it passes overhead moving toward the West.

Your Celestron Ultima telescope comes equipped with setting circles that translate the celestial coordinates into a precise location for the telescope to point. The setting circles will not work properly until you have polar aligned the telescope and aligned the R.A. setting circle.

Figure 4-1

The celestial sphere seen from the outside showing R.A. and DEC.

Ultima 91/4 and Ultima 11 Manual 30

MOTION OF THE STARS

The daily motion of the Sun across the sky is familiar to even the most casual observer. This daily trek is not the Sun moving as early astronomers thought, but the result of the Earth's rotation. The Earth's rotation also causes the stars to do the same, scribing out a large circle as the Earth completes one rotation. The size of the circular path a star follows depends on where it is in the sky. Stars near the celestial equator form the largest circles rising in the East and setting in the West. Moving toward the north celestial pole, the point around which the stars in the northern hemisphere appear to rotate, these circles become smaller. Stars in the mid-celestial latitudes rise in the Northeast and set in the Northwest. Stars at high celestial latitudes are always above the horizon, and are said to be circumpolar because they never rise and never set. You will never see the stars complete one circle because the sunlight during the day washes out the starlight. However, part of this circular motion of stars in this region of the sky can be seen by setting up a camera on a tripod and opening the shutter for a couple of hours. The processed film will reveal semicircles that revolve around the pole. (This description of stellar motions also applies to the southern hemisphere, except all stars south of the celestial equator move around the south celestial pole.)

Figure 4-2 All stars appear to rotate around the celestial poles. However, the appearance of this motion varies depending on where you are looking in the sky. Near the north celestial pole the stars scribe out recognizable circles centered on the pole (1). Stars near the celestial equator also follow circular paths around the pole. But, the complete path is interrupted by the horizon. These appear to rise in the East and set in the West (2). Looking toward the opposite pole, stars curve or arc in the opposite direction scribing a circle around the opposite pole (3).

Ultima 91/4 and Ultima 11 Manual 31

POLAR ALIGNMENT

In order for the telescope to track the stars, you must meet two criteria. First, you need a drive motor that moves at the same rate as the stars. The Celestron Ultima comes standard with a built-in drive motor designed specifically for this purpose. The second thing you need is to set the telescope's axis of rotation so that it tracks in the right direction. Since the motion of the stars across the sky is caused by the Earth's rotation about its axis, the telescope's axis must be made parallel to the Earth's.

Polar alignment is the process by which the telescope's axis of rotation (called the polar axis) is aligned (made parallel) with the Earth's axis of rotation. Once aligned, a telescope with a clock drive will track the stars as they move across the sky. The result is that objects observed through the telescope appear stationary (i.e., they will not drift out of the field of view). If not using the clock drive, all objects in the sky (day or night) will slowly drift out of the field. This motion is caused by the Earth's rotation. Even if you are not using the clock drive, polar alignment is still desirable since it will reduce the number of corrections needed to follow an object and limit all corrections to one axis (R.A.). There are several methods of polar alignment, all work on a similar principle, but performed somewhat differently. Each method is considered separately, beginning with the easier methods and working to the more difficult.

Although there are several methods mentioned here, you will never use all of them during one particular observing session. Instead, you may use only one if it is a casual observing session. Or, you may use two methods; one for rough alignment followed by a more accurate method if you plan on doing astrophotography.

Definition: The polar axis is the axis around which the telescope rotates when moved in right

ascension. This axis points the same direction even when the telescope moves in right ascension and declination.

Ultima 91/4 and Ultima 11 Manual 32

Figure 4-3

Finding the Pole

In each hemisphere, there is a point in the sky around which all the other stars appear to rotate. These points are called the celestial poles and are named for the hemisphere in which they reside. For example, in the northern hemisphere all stars move around the north celestial pole. When the telescope's polar axis is pointed at the celestial pole, it is parallel to the Earth's rotational axis.

Many methods of polar alignment require that you know how to find the celestial pole by identifying stars in the area. For those in the northern hemisphere, finding the celestial pole is not too difficult. Fortunately, we have a naked eye star less than a degree away. This star, Polaris, is the end star in the handle of the Little Dipper. Since the Little Dipper (technically called Ursa Minor) is not one of the brightest constellations in the sky, it may be difficult to locate from urban areas. If this is the case, use the two end stars in the bowl of the Big Dipper (the pointer stars). Draw an imaginary line through them toward the Little Dipper. They point to Polaris (see figure 4-5). The position of the Big Dipper changes during the year and throughout the course of the night (see figure 4-4). When the Big Dipper is low in the sky (i.e., near the horizon), it may be difficult to locate. During these times, look for Cassiopeia (see figure 4-5).

Figure 4-4. The position of the Big Dipper changes throughout the year and throughout the night.

Observers in the southern hemisphere are not as fortunate as those in the northern hemisphere. The stars around the south celestial pole are not nearly as bright as those around the North. The closest star that is relatively bright is Sigma Octantis. This star is just within naked eye limit (magnitude 5.5) and lies about 59 arc minutes from the pole. For more information about stars around the south celestial pole, please consult a star atlas.

Figure 4-5 The two stars in the front of the bowl of the Big Dipper point to Polaris which is less than one degree from the true (north) celestial pole. Cassiopeia, the “W” shaped constellation, is on the opposite side of the pole from the Big Dipper. The North Celestial Pole (N.C.P.) is marked by the “+” sign.

Ultima 91/4 and Ultima 11 Manual 33

Latitude Scales

The easiest way to polar align a telescope is with a latitude scale. Unlike other methods that require finding the celestial pole by identifying certain stars near it, this method works off of a known constant to determine how high the polar axis of the telescope should be pointed. The wedge that comes with your telescope has a latitude range of 0 to 90º.

The constant, mentioned above, is a relationship between your latitude and the angular distance the celestial pole is above the northern horizon. The angular distance from the northern horizon to the north celestial pole is always equal to your latitude. To illustrate this, imagine that you are standing on the north pole, latitude +90°. The north celestial pole, which has a declination of +90°, would be directly overhead (i.e., 90° above the horizon). Now, let's say that you move one degree south - your latitude is now +89° and the celestial pole is no longer directly overhead. It has moved one degree closer toward the northern horizon. This means the pole is now 89° above the northern horizon. If you move one degree further south, the same thing happens again. As you can see from this example, the distance from the northern horizon to the celestial pole is always equal to your latitude. This constant between the celestial pole and the horizon also works for the southern hemisphere. However, the angle is then measured from the southern horizon.

If you are observing from Los Angeles, which has a latitude of 34°, then the celestial pole is 34° above the northern horizon. A latitude scale points the polar axis of the telescope at the right elevation above the northern (or southern) horizon.

To align your telescope:

1. Make sure the polar axis of the mount is pointing due north. Use a landmark that you know faces north.

2. Level the tripod by adjusting the length of the tripod legs. There is a bubble level built into the mount for this purpose.

NOTE: Leveling the tripod is only necessary if using this method of polar alignment. Perfect polar alignment is still possible using other methods described later in this manual without leveling the tripod.

3. Adjust the mount in altitude until the latitude indicator points to your latitude.

This method can be done in daylight, thus eliminating the need to fumble around in the dark. Although this method does NOT put you directly on the pole, it will limit the number of corrections you will make when tracking an object. It is accurate enough for short exposure prime focus planetary photography (a couple of seconds) and short exposure piggyback astrophotography (a couple of minutes).

Ultima 91/4 and Ultima 11 Manual 34

Pointing at Polaris

This method uses Polaris as a guidepost to the celestial pole. Since Polaris is less than a degree from the celestial pole, you can simply point the polar axis of your telescope at Polaris. Although this is by no means perfect alignment, it does get you within one degree. Unlike the previous method, this must be done in the dark when Polaris is visible.

1. Set the telescope up so that the polar axis is pointing north.

2. Loosen the DEC clamp and move the telescope so that the tube is parallel to the polar axis. When this is done, the declination setting circle will indicate +90°. If the declination setting circle is not aligned, move the telescope so that the tube is parallel to the polar axis (see figure 4-6).

3. Adjust the mount in altitude and/or azimuth until Polaris is in the field of view of the finder.

4. Center Polaris in the field of the telescope using the altitude and azimuth adjustment knobs.

Remember, while polar aligning, do NOT move the telescope in R.A. or DEC. You do not want to move the telescope itself, but the polar axis. The telescope is used simply to see where the polar axis is pointing. You adjust the telescope by moving the wedge and/or tripod.

observations and photography.

Like the previous method, this gets you close to the pole but not directly on it. The following methods help improve your accuracy for more serious

Ultima 91/4 and Ultima 11 Manual 35

Figure 4-7

One might think that pointing at the pole produces a parallax effect, thus skewing the telescope’s axis of rotation with that of the Earth’s. Polaris, however, is over 50 light years away, thus making any parallax effect negligible. (One light year is 6.4 trillion miles. To find the distance to Polaris in miles, multiply 6.4 trillion by 50!)

Declination Drift

This method of polar alignment allows you to get the most accurate alignment on the celestial pole and is required if you want to do long exposure deep-sky astrophotography through the telescope. The declination drift method requires that you monitor the drift of selected stars. The drift of each star tells you how far away the polar axis is pointing from the true celestial pole and in what direction. Although declination drift is simple and straight-forward, it requires a great deal of time and patience to complete when first attempted. The declination drift method should be done after any one of the previously mentioned methods has been completed.

To perform the declination drift method you need to choose two bright stars. One should be near the eastern horizon and one due south near the meridian. Both stars should be near the celestial equator (i.e., 0° declination). You will monitor the drift of each star one at a time and in declination only. While monitoring a star on the meridian, any misalignment in the east-west direction is revealed. While monitoring a star near the east/west horizon, any misalignment in the north-south direction is revealed. As for hardware, you will need an illuminated reticle ocular to help you recognize any drift. For very close alignment, a Barlow lens is also recommended since it increases the magnification and reveals any drift faster.

When looking due south, insert the diagonal so the eyepiece points straight up. Insert the cross hair ocular and align the cross hairs so that one is parallel to the declination axis and the other is parallel to the right ascension axis. Move your telescope manually in R.A. and DEC to check parallelism.

First, choose your star near where the celestial equator and the meridian meet. The star should be approximately within 1/2 an hour of the meridian and within five degrees of the celestial equator. Center the star in the field of your telescope and monitor the drift in declination.

• If the star drifts south, the polar axis is too far east.

• If the star drifts north, the polar axis is too far west.

Ultima 91/4 and Ultima 11 Manual 36

Make the appropriate adjustments to the polar axis to eliminate any drift. Once you have eliminated all the drift, move to the star near the eastern horizon. The star should be 20 degrees above the horizon and within five degrees of the celestial equator.

• If the star drifts south, the polar axis is too low.

• If the star drifts north, the polar axis is too high.

Again, make the appropriate adjustments to the polar axis to eliminate any drift. Unfortunately, the latter adjustments interact with the prior adjustments ever so slightly. So, repeat the process again to improve the accuracy checking both axes for minimal drift. Once the drift has been eliminated, the telescope is very accurately aligned. You can now do prime focus deep-sky astrophotography for long periods.

NOTE: If the eastern horizon is blocked, you may choose a star near the western horizon, but you must reverse the polar high/low error directions. Also, if using this method in the southern hemisphere, the direction of drift is reversed for both R.A. and DEC.

Aligning the RA Setting Circle

In order to align the R.A. setting circle, you must first polar align the telescope mount. Second, you need to know the names of a few of the brightest stars in the sky. If you don't, they can be learned by using the Celestron Sky Maps (#93722) or consulting a current astronomy magazine. To align the R.A. setting circle:

1. Locate a bright star near the celestial equator. The farther you are from the celestial pole, the better your reading of the R.A. setting circle. The star you choose to align the setting circle should be a bright one whose coordinates are known and easy to look up. (For a list of bright stars to align the R.A. setting circle, see the list at the back of this manual.)

2. Center the star in the finder.

3. Center the star in the field of view of the telescope.

4. Start the clock drive so that the mount tracks the star.

5. Look up the coordinates of the star. You can consult a star catalog or use the list at the end of this manual.

6. Rotate the R.A. circle until the proper coordinates line up with the R.A. indicator. The R.A. setting circle should rotate freely. The R.A. setting circle has a marker every six minutes with each hour labeled.

The R.A. setting circle is now aligned and ready to use. The R.A. setting circle is clutched to the R.A. gear rotation. As long as the drive is operating, the circle does not need to be reset once indexed to the correct coordinate (i.e., once aligned). If the drive is ever turned off, then the R.A. setting circle must be reset once reactivated.

Once you have finished this process you are ready to use the setting circles to locate objects in the night sky. See the section on "Using the Setting Circles," for specific information.

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USING THE DRIVE

The Ultima drive is a state-of-the-art motor drive system designed specifically for the Ultima telescopes. The entire system is a self-contained unit built into the drive base. The clock drive is powered by a 9-volt rectangular battery which can run the telescope for up to 35 hours. The system can also run off of an AC power or external 12-volt DC power with optional adapters. The hand controller, which comes with the telescope, allows you to use the drive for astrophotography. The hand controller is NOT required for unguided visual observing.

One of the most unique features of the new drive is the Periodic Error Correction (PEC) function. This feature allows the drive system to learn the characteristics of the worm gear and, as a result, improve the tracking. This typically reduces the periodic error to 30 percent or less of the original error. The amount of improvement will vary depending on guiding skill, atmospheric stability, the characteristics of the worm gear, and accuracy of the polar alignment.

The following is a brief discussion of each of the features.

Figure 5-1

Cover plate on the Ultima Drive Base

POWERING UP THE DRIVE

The ‘ON/OFF’ switch supplies power to the drive motor. Each time the drive is turned on, it defaults to sidereal rate (i.e., the rate at which the stars move across the sky). All LEDs illuminate, but the LED for the tracking rate selected is brighter than the others so it is discernible in the dark. If the battery is low, the LED indicating the tracking rate will blink.

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THE HAND CONTROLLER BUTTONS

The buttons on the hand controller are intentionally labeled in a rather vague manner. This is due to the fact that

these buttons are user definable. With the hand controller cord facing down, the default settings are as follows:

• ‘Up’ button moves the telescope north

• ‘Down’ button moves the telescope south

• ‘Right’ button moves the telescope west

• ‘Left’ button moves the telescope east

The buttons that control these settings are found on the upper left hand corner of the cover of the drive base. The button is labeled ‘REV’ and is next to two LEDs, one labeled ‘RA’ the other ‘DEC.’ To change the settings, press the ‘REV’ button. As the button is pressed, the LED will display which axis has been reversed.

• Pressing the button once reverses the RA setting

• Pressing the button twice reverses the DEC setting while returning RA to the default setting

• Pressing the button three times reverses both the RA and DEC settings

• Pressing the button four times returns both RA and DEC to their default settings

If you are NOT using the optional DEC motor then the DEC buttons are inoperable. As a result, all corrections to the declination axis must be made manually (i.e., by turning the DEC slow motion knob).

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TRACKING RATE SELECTION

The drive has four basic rates: sidereal, lunar, solar, and King (which is a modified sidereal rate that takes into account atmospheric refraction). Sidereal rate is the rate at which the stars move and is based on a single rotation of the Earth which takes 1,436.5 minutes. The lunar and solar rates are for the Moon and Sun respectively, both of which move relative to the background stars.

For more accurate sidereal tracking there is King rate. An astronomer by the name of King discovered that atmospheric refraction affects the apparent motion of objects across the sky. The King rate takes into account this refraction caused by the Earth’s atmosphere and is recommended for deep sky astrophotography. For deep sky observing, either King or sidereal rate is fine.

Each of the tracking rates is represented by an icon. Sidereal rate is represented by a star (★), lunar rate by a crescent moon (), solar rate by a sun (✳), and King rate by a crown. Underneath each icon is an LED to indicate which rate has been selected. Once the power has been turned on, the drive tracks at sidereal rate, the default tracking rate. To change the tracking rate, press the ‘RATE’ button. Pressing the button once changes the drive rate once. The rates are selected sequentially from left-to-right as listed above.

Note that the PEC function does NOT have to be activated for the drive to work. However, once PEC is activated, the drive rate is locked on the one selected. You can not change rates until PEC is turned off.

PERIODIC ERROR CORRECTION

Periodic Error Correction, or PEC for short, is a system that improves the

tracking accuracy of the drive by reducing the number of user corrections. PEC is designed to improve photographic quality by reducing the amplitude of the worm errors. Using the PEC function is a two-step process. First, you must guide for at least four minutes during which time the system records the corrections you make. (It takes the worm gear four minutes to make one complete revolution, hence the need to guide for four minutes.) This ‘teaches’ the PEC chip the characteristics of the worm gear. The second step is to play back the corrections you made during the recording phase. Keep in mind, this feature is for advanced astrophotographers and requires careful guiding.

Definition: Periodic error is a slight oscillation of the mount caused by imperfections in the drive gears. The rate

of the periodic error is equal to the rotation of the [worm] gear, in this case four minutes. Note that ALL telescope drives have some periodic error.

Here’s how to use the PEC function most effectively.

1. Find a bright star relatively close to the object you want to photograph.

2. Insert a high power eyepiece with illuminated cross hairs into your telescope. Orient the guiding eyepiece cross hairs so that one is parallel to the declination axis while the other is parallel to the R.A. axis.

3. Center the guide star on the illuminated cross hairs, focus the telescope, and study the periodic movement.

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4. Take a few minutes to practice guiding. This will help you familiarize yourself with the periodic error of the drive and the operation of the hand control box.

5. Press the “PEC” button once to activate the record (REC) mode. The LED below the word “REC” will illuminate indicating that the record mode is working.

NOTE: The star should stay centered on the cross hairs for a few seconds without using the hand controller before

activating the PEC function.

1. Guide for at least four minutes.

2. Try not to overshoot corrections in right ascension

• Ignore drift in declination

• Activate the playback function by pressing the ‘PEC’ button once. All corrections made during the record

mode will playback in a cycle that lasts four minutes.

3. Point the telescope at the object you want to photograph and you are ready to begin.

If you record for more than four minutes, the system will play back the corrections made during the first four minutes and continue to add new corrections as long as the ‘REC’ function is activated. Thus, you can technically guide a photo while in the ‘REC’ mode. However, if a non-periodic error appears you will have to guide it out manually twice; once when it first appears, and a second time four minutes later when the system plays back the corrections.

NOTE: The focus buttons and the fast slew functions are locked while the PEC function is activated. This

eliminates the possibility of shifting the focus or moving the telescope suddenly during an exposure.

Once you have used the PEC function for a while you may mistake its operation for the way the drive normally operates. The best way to see how well the PEC function works is to turn it off. PEC results improve with practice and patience.

Does the PEC function make unguided astrophotography possible? Yes and no. For solar (filtered), lunar, and piggyback (up to 200mm), the answer is yes. However, even with PEC, off-axis guiding is still mandatory for long exposure, deep sky astrophotography. The Reducer/Corrector lens reduces exposure times making the task of guiding a little easier. More on each of these forms of astrophotography in the section on ‘Celestial Photography.’

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CONNECTORS

On the drive base cover are four electrical connectors; three 3.5mm miniature phono jacks and one modular telephone jack. Starting from the left, the first, labeled ‘12VDC,’ is for an external power source. This outlet is for external power source adapters, either AC (#18772).

WARNING: When plugging into an external power source, ALWAYS plug the connector into the drive

base first then the source outlet. Failure to do so will result in damage to the circuit board.

Next is the outlet for the optional DEC motor, and is appropriately labeled ‘DEC.’ The DEC motor allows you to make minor adjustments to the DEC axis using the buttons on the hand controller. Such an accessory is mandatory for deep sky astrophotography.

The third outlet, labeled ‘FOCUS,’ is for the optional focus motor. This accessory allows you to focus the telescope using the buttons on the hand controller.

NOTE: If the DEC and/or focus motors are used, the maximum operating time of the drive is reduced when

using the internal 9-volt battery.

The last outlet is the female end of a modular phone-type jack. This outlet accepts the male end of the hand controller. The hand controller is NOT needed for normal tracking. It is used to make corrections during long duration astrophotography. To plug the hand controller into the drive base:

1. Hold the end of the hand cable with the modular photo jack over the outlet in the base.

2. Orient the jack so that the plastic tab is down.

3. Slide the jack into the outlet until it clicks.

The hand controller is now installed and ready to use. Pressing the buttons on the hand controller will speed the motor up or slow it down allowing you to make corrections for long exposure astrophotography. If you are using the optional DEC motor, all corrections to the DEC axis will also be made from the hand controller.

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THE HAND CONTROLLER

On the hand controller there are seven buttons; four control the corrections in right ascension and declination, two control the optional focus motor, and one activates the LED map light.

When guiding, press the appropriate button to center your guide star. If you are NOT using the optional DEC motor then all corrections to the declination axis must be made manually (i.e., by turning the DEC slow motion knob).

To slew the telescope, press the button that corresponds to the direction you want to move the telescope. While holding the button down, press the opposite directional button. For example, if you want to slew the telescope west, hold the west button down and then press the east button. Conversely, if you want to slew the telescope east, hold the east button down then press the west button. The slewing rate varies between 300 to 400% of the normal sidereal rate, depending on how well your telescope is balanced. The slewing function also works in declination if using the optional DEC motor.

If the drive does not respond when the correction buttons have been pressed, check to make sure that the hand controller cable is plugged into the drive base correctly. A good way to check this is to activate the LED map light.

The ‘Focus’ buttons work in conjunction with the optional focus motor (see additional accessories section). Note that the buttons are locked when the PEC function is activated. If not using the optional focus motor, the buttons are inoperable and focus adjustment is done by turning the focus knob right of the diagonal and eyepiece.

The last button on the hand controller activates the map light. Press it once to turn the map light on. Press it once again to turn it off.

REPLACING THE BATTERY

Once the battery has been drained, it must be replaced. Replacing the alkaline battery requires removal of the drive base cover. To do this:

1. Remove the four Phillips head screws that hold the drive base cover to the drive base.

2. Remove the cover plate. The internal components of the drive will be visible.

3. Unclip the battery from the metal holder.

4. Remove the terminal from the battery.

5. Install the new battery by attaching it to the terminal and clip it into the battery holder.

6. Replace the drive base cover.

To obtain the longest possible run time, use an alkaline battery. This type of battery will power the drive for up to 35 hours of continuous use. (Nickel cadmium or standard 9-volt batteries are NOT recommended.) Keep in mind that

Ultima 91/4 and Ultima 11 Manual 43

the map light consumes more power than the main R.A. drive motor. Operating the declination and focus motors also draws more power from the battery, thus reducing the run time of the battery.

When taking your Ultima telescope to the southern hemisphere, there is a need to reverse the direction of the motors. In previous telescopes this was accomplished by installing a reversed motor. Now, the direction the drive motor moves the telescope is within the control of the user. Changing from northern hemisphere to southern hemisphere requires changing the polarity of the drive motor. To do this:

1. With the power turned off, press down and hold the up and down buttons on the hand controller simultaneously.

2. Turn the power switch on (keep holding the buttons down).

3. In one or two seconds the red (LED) will blink. This will indicate the telescope is set for the southern hemisphere.

4. Keep the hand controller plugged in at all times. If you unplug the unit, it will default back to northern hemisphere operation.

The direction of the drive motor is now reversed and will work in the opposite hemisphere. When you turn off the drive, everything is reset. So, every time you turn on the drive in the Southern Hemisphere the motors must be set to drive in reverse in this manner.

TROUBLE SHOOTING

When the battery is low, the LED that indicates the tracking rate will blink. At this point, about 20 percent of the battery life remains. If the battery voltage gets low, either change the battery or plug the drive into an external power source. An optional adapter allows the drive to run off of AC power (#18772) or 12-volt DC power (#18769).

If the battery is new, a blinking LED may indicate a mechanical problem. Call the Celestron repair department for assistance.

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CELESTIAL OBSERVING

With your telescope set up, you are ready to use it for observing. This section covers visual observing for both solar system and deep sky objects.

OBSERVING THE MOON

In the night sky, the Moon is a prime target for your first look because it is extremely bright and easy to find. Often, it is tempting to look at the Moon when it is full. At this time, the face we see is fully illuminated and its light can be overpowering. In addition, little or no contrast can be seen during this phase.

One of the best times to observe the Moon is during its partial phases (around the time of first or third quarter). Long shadows reveal a great amount of detail on the lunar surface. At low power you will be able to see most of the lunar disk at one time. The optional Reducer/Corrector lens allows for breath-taking views of the entire lunar disk when used with a low power eyepiece. Change to higher power (magnification) to focus in on a smaller area. Keep in mind that if you are not using the clock drive, the rotation of the Earth will cause the Moon to drift out of your field of view. You will have to manually adjust the telescope to keep the Moon centered. This effect is more noticeable at higher power. If you are using the clockdrive and have polar aligned, the Moon will remain centered if using the lunar tracking rate. Consult your local newspaper or a current astronomy magazine to find out when the Moon is visible.

Lunar Observing Hints

• To ensure accurate tracking, be sure to select lunar tracking rate.

• To increase contrast and bring out detail on the lunar surface, use filters. A yellow filter works well at

improving contrast.

OBSERVING THE PLANETS

Other easy targets include the five naked eye planets. You can see Venus go through its lunar-like phases. Mars can reveal a host of surface detail and one, if not both, of its polar caps. You will be able to see the cloud belts of Jupiter and the great Red Spot (if it is visible at the time you are observing). In addition, you will also be able to see the moons of Jupiter as they orbit the giant planet. Saturn, with its beautiful rings, is easily visible at moderate power. All you need to know is where to look. Most astronomy publications indicate where the planets are in the sky each month.

Planetary Observing Hints

• King or sidereal rates work best for tracking the planets

• To increase contrast and bring out detail on the planetary surface, try using

Celestron eyepiece filters.

OBSERVING THE SUN

Although overlooked by many amateur astronomers, solar observation is both rewarding and fun. However, because the Sun is so bright, special precautions

Ultima 91/4 and Ultima 11 Manual 45

must be taken when observing our star so as not to damage your eyes or your telescope.

Never project an image of the Sun through the telescope. Because of the folded optical design, tremendous heat build-up will result inside the optical tube. This can damage the telescope and/or any accessories attached to the telescope.

For safe solar viewing, use a Celestron solar filter. This filter reduces the intensity of the Sun's light, making it safe to view. With this filter you can see sunspots as they move across the solar disk and faculae, which are bright patches seen near the Sun's edge. Be sure to cover the lens of the finder or completely remove the finderscope when observing the Sun. This will ensure that the finderscope itself is not damaged and that no one looks through it inadvertently.

Solar Observing Hints

• The best time to observe the Sun is in the early morning or late afternoon when the air is cooler.

• To locate the Sun without a finder, watch the shadow of the telescope tube until it forms a circular shadow.

• To ensure accurate tracking, be sure to select solar tracking rate.

OBSERVING DEEP SKY OBJECTS

Deep-sky objects are simply those objects outside the boundaries of our solar system. They include star clusters, planetary nebulae, diffuse nebulae, double stars and other galaxies outside our own Milky Way. Unlike the Sun, Moon, and five major planets, most deep sky objects are not visible to the naked eye. Finding them requires using your setting circles or star hopping to them. The Celestron Sky Map (#93722) can help you locate the brightest deep-sky objects.

Most deep-sky objects have a large angular size. Therefore, low-to-moderate power is all you need to see them. Visually, they are too faint to reveal any of the color seen in long exposure photographs. Instead, they appear black and white. And, because of their low surface brightness, they should be observed from a dark-sky location. Light pollution around large urban areas washes out most nebulae making them difficult, if not impossible, to observe. Light Pollution Reduction filters help reduce the background sky brightness, thus increasing contrast.

Using the Setting Circles

Once the telescope is polar aligned (read the “Polar Alignment” section in this manual) and the R.A. setting circle is aligned, you can use the setting circles to find any objects with known coordinates. To do so:

1. Select an object to observe. Use a seasonal star chart or planisphere to make sure the object you chose is above the horizon. As you become more familiar with the night sky, this will no longer be necessary.

2. Look up the object's coordinates in an atlas or reference book.

3. Move the telescope in declination until the indicator points at the correct declination coordinate.

4. Move the telescope in R.A. until the indicator points to the correct coordinate (do NOT move the R.A. circle).

5. Look through the finder to see if you have located the object.

Ultima 91/4 and Ultima 11 Manual 46

6. Center the object in the finder.

7. Look in the main optics using a low power eyepiece; the object should be there. The telescope will track in R.A. as long as the clock drive is operating.

8. Repeat the process for each object observed throughout the observing session.

You may not be able to see fainter objects in the finder. When this happens, gradually sweep the telescope around until the object is visible.

The declination setting circle is scaled in degrees while the R.A. setting circle is incremented in hours and minutes with a marker every six minutes. As a result, the setting circles will get you close to your target, but not directly on it. Also, the accuracy of your polar alignment will affect how accurately your setting circles read.

At the end of this manual there is a list of deep-sky objects well within reach of your Ultima Telescope.

Star Hopping

Another way to find deep sky objects is by star-hopping. Star hopping is done by using bright stars to "guide" you to an object. Here are directions for two popular objects.

The Andromeda Galaxy, M31, is an easy target. To find M31:

1. Locate the constellation of Pegasus, a large square visible in the fall (in the eastern sky moving toward the point overhead) and winter months (overhead moving toward the West).

2. Start at the star in the northeast corner—Alpha (α) Andromedae.

3. Move northeast approximately 7°. There you will find two stars of equal brightness—Delta (δ) and Pi (π) Andromeda—about 3° apart.

4. Continue in the same direction another 8°. There you will find two stars—Beta (β) and Mu (µ) Andromedae—also about 3° apart.

5. Move 3° northwest—the same distance between the two star—to the Andromeda galaxy. It is easily visible in the finder.

Ultima 91/4 and Ultima 11 Manual 47

Figure 6-2 Star hopping to the Andromeda Galaxy (M31) is a snap since all the stars needed to do so are visible to the naked eye. Note that the scale for this star chart is different from the one on the following page which shows the constellation Lyra.

Star hopping may take some getting used to since you can see more stars through the finder than you can see with the naked eye. And, some objects are not visible in the finder. One such object is M57, the famed Ring Nebula. Here's how to find it:

1. Find the constellation of Lyra, a small parallelogram visible in the summer and fall months. Lyra is easy to pick out because it contains the bright star Vega.

2. Start at the star Vega—Alpha (α) Lyrae—and move a few degrees southeast to find the parallelogram. The four stars that make up this geometric shape are all similar in brightness making them easy to see.

3. Locate the two southern most stars that make up the parallelogram—Beta (β) and Gamma (γ) Lyra.

4. Point the finder half way between these two stars.

5. Move about 1/2° toward Beta (β) Lyra, but remaining on a line that connects the two stars.

6. Look through the telescope and the Ring Nebula should be in the telescope. Its angular size is quite small and, therefore, not visible in the finder.

Because the Ring Nebula is rather faint, you may need to use averted vision to see it. Averted vision is the act of looking slightly away from the object you are observing. So, if you are observing the Ring Nebula, center it in the field of view and then look off toward the side. In this manner, light from the object is falling on the black and white sensitive rods as opposed to the color sensitive cones of your eyes. These two examples should give you an idea of how to star hop to deep sky objects. To use this method on other objects, consult any of the star atlases and star hop to the object of your choice using naked eye stars.

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SEEING CONDITIONS

Viewing conditions affect what you can see through your telescope during an observing session. Conditions include transparency, sky illumination, and seeing. Understanding viewing conditions and the effect they have on observing will help you get the most out of your telescope.

Transparency

Transparency is the clarity of the atmosphere which is affected by clouds, moisture, and other airborne particles. Thick cumulus clouds are completely opaque while cirrus can be thin, allowing the light from the brightest stars through. Hazy skies absorb more light than clear skies making fainter objects harder to see and reducing contrast on brighter objects. Aerosols ejected into the upper atmosphere from volcanic eruptions also affect transparency. Ideal conditions are when the night sky is inky black.

Sky Illumination

General sky brightening caused by the Moon, aurorae, natural airglow, and light pollution greatly affect transparency. While not a problem for the brighter stars and planets, bright skies reduce the contrast of extended nebulae making them difficult, if not impossible, to see. To maximize your observing, limit deep sky viewing to moonless nights far from the light polluted skies found around major urban areas. LPR filters enhance deep sky viewing from light polluted areas by blocking unwanted light while transmitting light from certain deep sky objects. You can, on the other hand, observe planets and stars from light polluted areas or when the Moon is out.

Seeing

Seeing conditions refer to the stability of the atmosphere and directly effects the amount of fine detail seen in extended objects. The air in our atmosphere acts as a lens which bends and distorts incoming light rays. The amount of bending depends on air density. Varying temperature layers have different densities and, therefore, bend light differently. Light rays from the same object arrive slightly displaced creating an imperfect or smeared image. These atmospheric disturbances vary from time-to-time and place-to-place. The size of the air parcels compared to your aperture determines the "seeing" quality. Under good seeing conditions, fine detail is visible on the brighter planets

Ultima 91/4 and Ultima 11 Manual 49

like Jupiter and Mars, and stars are pinpoint images. Under poor seeing conditions, images are blurred and stars appear as blobs. Seeing conditions are rated on five-point scale where one is the worst and five is the best (see figure 6-4). Seeing conditions can be classified in one of three categories which are based on the cause.

Type 1 seeing conditions are characterized by rapid changes in the image seen through the telescope. Extended objects, like the Moon, appear to shimmer while point sources (i.e., stars) appear double. Type 1 seeing is caused by currents within or very close to the telescope tube. These currents could be caused by a telescope that has not reached thermal equilibrium with the outdoor surroundings, heat waves from people standing near the telescope, or heated dew caps. To avoid the problems associated with Type 1 seeing, allow your telescope approximately 45 minutes to reach thermal equilibrium. Once adjusted to the outdoor temperature, don't touch the telescope tube with your hands. When pointing the telescope, hold the Ultima by the handle on the rear cell. If observing with others, make sure no one stands in front of or directly below the telescope tube.

The images produced by Type 2 seeing conditions don't move as quickly as those produced by Type 1 conditions, but the images are quite blurry. Fine detail is lost and the contrast is low for extended objects. Stars are spread out and not sharp. The source of Type 2 seeing is the lower atmosphere, most likely heat waves from the ground or buildings. To avoid the problems associated with Type 2 seeing, select a good observing site. Look for broad hill tops or open grassy fields. Stable thermal conditions found near lakes and atmospheric inversions also tend to produce good seeing. Avoid sites that overlook asphalt parking lots or plowed fields. Stay away from valleys and shorelines. If you can't get a better location, wait until the early morning hours when the surroundings are uniformly cool and the seeing is generally better.

Type 3 seeing conditions are characterized by fast ripples, but sharp images. In extended objects fine detail is visible, but the images shift around the field. Stars are crisp points, but they shift small distances rapidly around the field. The cause of Type 3 seeing is turbulence in the upper atmosphere which means the observer has less control over it. However, the effects of Type 3 seeing are generally less pronounced than the other two types. You can never really avoid Type 3 seeing. Your best bet is to wait until moments of steadiness. If the seeing is extremely bad, pack up and wait for a better night.

The conditions described here apply to both visual and photographic observations.

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CELESTIAL PHOTOGRAPHY

After looking at the night sky for a while you may want to try photographing it. Several forms of celestial photography are possible with your Celestron telescope. The most common forms of celestial photography, in order of difficulty are; short exposure prime focus, piggyback, eyepiece projection, and long exposure deep sky. Each of these is discussed in moderate detail with enough information to get you started. Topics include the accessories required and some simple techniques. More information is available in some of the publications listed at the end of this manual.

In addition to the specific accessories required for each type of celestial photography, there is the need for a camera - but not just any camera. The camera does not have to have many of the features offered on today's state-of-the-art equipment. For example, you don't need auto focus capability or mirror lock up. Here are the mandatory features a camera needs for celestial photography. First, a 'B' setting which allows for time exposures. This excludes point and shoot cameras and limits the selection to SLR cameras, the most common type of 35mm camera on the market today.

Second, the 'B' or manual setting should NOT run off the battery. Many new electronic cameras use the battery to keep the shutter open during time exposures. Once the batteries are drained, usually after a few minutes, the shutter closes, whether you were finished with the exposure or not. Look for a camera that has a manual shutter when operating in the time exposure mode. Olympus, Nikon, Minolta, Pentax, Canon and others have made such camera bodies.

The camera must have interchangeable lenses so you can attach it to the telescope and so you can use a variety of lenses for piggyback photography. If you can't find a new camera, you can purchase a used camera body that is not 100-percent functional. The light meter, for example, does not have to be operational since you will be determining the exposure length manually.

You also need a cable release with a locking function to hold the shutter open while you do other things. Mechanical and air release models are available.

SHORT EXPOSURE PRIME FOCUS PHOTOGRAPHY

Short exposure prime focus photography is the best way to begin recording celestial objects. It is done with the camera attached to the telescope without an eyepiece or camera lens in place. To attach your camera you need the Celestron T-Adapter (#93633-A) and a T-Ring for your specific camera (i.e., Minolta, Nikon, Pentax, etc.). The T-Ring replaces the 35mm SLR camera's normal lens. Prime focus photography allows you to capture the majority of the lunar disk or solar disk. To attach your camera to your Ultima Telescope:

1. Remove all visual accessories.

2. Thread the T-Ring onto the T-Adapter.

3. Mount your camera body onto the T-Ring the same as you would any other lens.

4. Thread the T-Adapter onto the back of the Celestron Telescope while holding the camera in the desired orientation (either vertical or horizontal).

With your camera attached to the telescope, you are ready for prime focus photography. Start with an easy object like the Moon. Here's how to do it:

Telescope Maintenance 51

5. Load your camera with film that has a moderate-to-fast speed (i.e., ISO rating). Faster films are more desirable when the Moon is a crescent. When the Moon is near full, and at its brightest, slower films are more desirable. Here are some film recommendations:

• T-Max 100

• T-Max 400

• Any 100 to 400 ISO color slide film

• Fuji Super HG 400

• Ektar 25 or 100

6. Center the Moon in the field of your Ultima Telescope.

7. Focus the telescope by turning the focus knob until the image is sharp.

8. Set the shutter speed to the appropriate setting (see table 7-1).

9. Trip the shutter using a cable release.

10. Advance the film and repeat the process.

Lunar Phase ISO 50 ISO 100 ISO 200 ISO 400 Crescent Quarter Full

Above is a listing of recommended exposure times when photographing the Moon at the prime focus of your Celestron Ultima Telescope.

The exposure times listed in table 7-1 should be used as a starting point. Always make exposures that are longer and shorter than the recommended time. Also, take a few photos at each shutter speed. This will ensure that you will get a good photo.

If using black and white film, try a yellow filter to reduce the light intensity and to increase contrast.

Keep accurate records of your exposures. This information is useful if you want to repeat your results or if you want to submit some of your photos to various astronomy magazines for possible publication!

This technique is also used for photographing the Sun with the proper Celestron solar filter.

1/2 1/4 1/8 1/15 1/15 1/30 1/60 1/125 1/30 1/60 1/125 1/250

Table 7-1

PIGGYBACK PHOTOGRAPHY

The easiest way to enter the realm of deep-sky, long exposure astrophotography is via the piggyback method. Piggyback photography is done with a camera and its normal lens riding on top of the telescope. Through piggyback photography you can capture entire constellations and record large scale nebulae that are too big for prime focus photography. Because you are photographing with a low power lens and guiding with a high power telescope, the margin for error is very large. Small mistakes made while guiding the telescope will not show up on film. To attach the camera to the telescope, use the piggyback mount. This can be purchased as an optional accessory.

As with any form of deep-sky photography, it should be done from a dark sky observing site. Light pollution around major urban areas washes out the faint light of deep-sky objects.

Telescope Maintenance 52

1. Polar align the telescope (using one of the methods described earlier) and start the clock drive.

2. Load your camera with slide or print film, ISO 400 or faster!

3. Set the f/ratio of your camera lens so that it is a half stop to one full stop down from completely open.

4. Set the shutter speed to the "B" setting and focus the lens to the infinity setting.

5. Locate the area of the sky that you want to photograph and move the telescope so that it points in that direction.

6. Find a suitable guide star in the telescope field. This is relatively easy since you can search a wide area without affecting the area covered by your camera lens. If you do not have an illuminated cross hair eyepiece for guiding, simply defocus your guide star until it fills most of the field of view. This makes it easy to detect any drift.

7. Release the shutter using a cable release.

8. Monitor your guide star for the duration of the exposure making all corrections using the hand controller. If not using the optional DEC motor, then corrections to the declination axis must be made carefully turning the DEC slow motion by hand as needed.

9. Close camera's shutter.

As for lenses, use only those that produce sharp images near the edge of the field. The lenses should have a resolving power of at least 40 lines per millimeter. A good focal length range is 35 to 200mm for lenses designed for 35mm cameras.

The exposure time depends on the film being used. However, five minutes is usually a good starting point. With slower films, like 100 ISO, you can expose as long as 45 minutes. With faster films, like 1600 ISO, you really shouldn't expose more than 5 to 10 minutes. When getting started, use fast films to record as much detail in the shortest possible time. Here are proven recommendations:

• Ektar 1000 (color print) • Scotchchrome 400

• Konica 3200 (color print) • T-Max 3200 (black and white print)

• Fujichrome 1600D (color slide) • T-Max 400 (black and white print)\

• 3M 1000 (color slide)

As you perfect your technique, try using specialized films that are designed or specially treated for celestial photography. Here are some popular choices:

• Ektar 125 (color print) • Tech Pan, gas hypered (black and white print)

• Fujichrome 100D (color slide) • T-Max 400 (black and white print)

As with all forms of photography, keep accurate records of your work. This information can be used later if you want to reproduce certain results or if you want to submit photos for possible publication.

Once you have mastered piggyback photography with wide angle and normal lenses, try longer focal length lenses. The longer the focal length, the more accurate your guiding must be. You can continue to increase

Telescope Maintenance 53

the focal length of the lens until you are ready for prime focus photography with your Celestron Ultima Telescope.

EYEPIECE PROJECTION

This form of celestial photography is designed for objects with small angular sizes, primarily the Moon and planets. Planets, although physically quite large, appear small in angular size because of their great distances. Moderate to high magnification is, therefore, required to make the image large enough to see any detail. Unfortunately, the camera/telescope combination alone does not provide enough magnification to produce a usable image size on film. In order to get the image large enough, you must attach your camera to the telescope with the eyepiece in place. To do so, you need two additional accessories; a deluxe teleextender (#93643), which attaches to the visual back, and a T-ring for your particular camera make (i.e., Minolta, Nikon, Pentax, etc.).

Because of the high magnifications during eyepiece projection, the field of view is quite small which makes it difficult to find and center objects. To make the job a little easier, align the finder as accurately as possible. This allows you to get the object in the telescope's field based on the finder's view alone.

Another problem introduced by the high magnification is vibration. Simply tripping the shutter  even with a cable release  produces enough vibration to smear the image. To get around this, use the camera's self-timer if the exposure time is less than one second  a common occurrence when photographing the Moon. For exposures over one second, use the "hat trick." This technique incorporates a hand-held black card placed over the aperture of the telescope to act as a shutter. The card prevents light from entering the telescope while the shutter is released. Once the shutter has been released and the vibration has diminished (a few seconds), move the black card out of the way to expose the film. After the exposure is complete, place the card over the front of the telescope and close the shutter. Advance the film and you're ready for your next shot. Keep in mind that the card should be held a few inches in front of the telescope, and not touching it. It is easier if you use two people for this process; one to release the camera shutter and one to hold the card. Here's the process for making the exposure.

1. Find and center the desired target in the view finder of your camera.

2. Turn the focus knob until the image is as sharp as possible.

3. Place the black card over the front of the telescope.

4. Release the shutter using a cable release.

5. Wait for the vibration caused by releasing the shutter to diminish. Also, wait for a moment of good seeing.

6. Remove the black card from in front of the telescope for the duration of the exposure (see accompanying table).

7. Replace the black card over the front of the telescope.

8. Close the camera's shutter.

Advance the film and you are ready for your next exposure. Don't forget to take photos of varying duration and keep accurate records of what you have done. Record the date, telescope, exposure duration, eyepiece, f/ratio, film, and some comments on the seeing conditions.

Telescope Maintenance 54

The following table lists exposures for eyepiece projection with a 10mm eyepiece. All exposure times are listed in seconds or fractions of a second.

Planet ISO 50 ISO 100 ISO 200 ISO 400 Moon Mercury Venus Mars Jupiter Saturn

The exposure times listed here should be used as a starting point. Always make exposures that are longer and shorter than the recommended time. Also, take a few photos at each shutter speed. This will ensure that you get a good photo. It is not uncommon to go through an entire roll of 36 exposures and have only one good shot.

NOTE: Don't expect to record more detail than you can see visually in the eyepiece at the time you are photographing.

Once you have mastered the technique, experiment with different films, different focal length eyepieces, and even different filters.

4 2 1 1/2

16 8 4 2

1/2 1/4 1/8 1/15

16 8 4 2

8 4 2 1

16 8 4 2

Table 7-2

Effective Focal Length

The effective focal length of the optical system for eyepiece projection is given by this formula:

E F L Magnification DF...=×

where DF is the distance from the center of the eyepiece to the film and magnification is the focal length of the telescope divided by the focal length of the eyepiece.

Effective Magnification

To determine the magnification when using eyepiece projection, use the equation

EFL

...

where

E.F.L. is the effective focal length , in millimeters and E.M. is the effective magnification.

Telescope Maintenance 55

Effective f# or f-ratio

The effective

where f-ratio. Make sure you are consistent with units. Use millimeters or inches, not both.

f# can be found by this equation:

EFL

..#

E.F.L. is the effective focal length, Dp is the diameter of the primary mirror and E.F.# is the effective

...

LONG EXPOSURE PRIME FOCUS PHOTOGRAPHY

This is the last form of celestial photography to be attempted after others have been mastered. It is intended primarily for deep sky objects, that is objects outside our solar system which includes star clusters, nebulae, and galaxies. While it may seem that high magnification is required for these objects, just the opposite is true. Most of these objects cover large angular areas and fit nicely into the prime focus field of your Celestron Telescope. The brightness of these objects, however, requires long exposure times and, as a result, are rather difficult.

There are several techniques for this type of photography, and the one chosen will determine the standard accessories needed. If, for example, you use a separate guidescope, the camera attaches to the telescope with a T-Adapter (#93633-A) and a T-Ring for your specific camera. However, the best method for long exposure deep sky astrophotography is with an off-axis guider. This device allows you to photograph and guide through the telescope simultaneously. Celestron offers a very special and advanced off-axis guider, called the Radial Guider (#94176). In addition, you will need a T-Ring to attach your camera to the Radial Guider.

Other equipment needs include a guiding eyepiece. Unlike piggyback photography which allows for fairly loose guiding, prime focus requires meticulous guiding for long periods. To accomplish this you need a guiding ocular with an illuminated reticle to monitor your guide star. For this purpose, Celestron offers the Micro Guide Eyepiece (#94171). Here is a brief summary of the technique.

1. Polar align the telescope using the declination drift method.

2. Remove all visual accessories.

3. Thread the Radial Guider onto your Celestron Ultima 9

4. Thread the T-Ring onto the Radial Guider.

5. Mount your camera body onto the T-Ring the same as you would any other lens.

6. Set the shutter speed to the "B" setting.

7. Focus the telescope on a star.

8. Center your subject in the field of your camera.

9. Find a suitable guide star in the telescope field. This can be the most time consuming process.

10. Open the shutter using a cable release.

/4. or Ultima 11.

Telescope Maintenance 56

11. Monitor your guide star for the duration of the exposure using the buttons on the hand controller to make the needed corrections. Don't forget to use the PEC function.

12. Close the camera's shutter.

When getting started, use fast films to record as much detail in the shortest possible time. Here are proven recommendations:

• Ektar 1000 (color print) • Scotchchrome 400

• Konica 3200 (color print) • T-Max 3200 (black and white print)

• Fujichrome 1600D (color slide) • T-Max 400 (black and white print)

• 3M 1000 (color slide)

As you perfect your technique, try specialized films, that is films that are designed or specially treated for celestial photography. Here are some popular choices:

• Ektar 125 (color print) • Tech Pan, gas hypered (black and white print)

• Fujichrome 100D (color slide) • T-Max 400 (black and white print)

There is no exposure determination table to help you get started. The best way to determine exposure length is look at previously published photos to see what film/exposure combinations were used. Or take unguided sample photos of various parts of the sky while the drive is running. Always take exposures of various lengths to determine the best exposure time.

Telescope Maintenance 57

TELESCOPE MAINTENANCE

While your Ultima telescope requires little maintenance, there are a few things to remember that will ensure your telescope performs optimally.

CARE AND CLEANING OF THE OPTICS

Occasionally, dust and/or moisture may build up on the corrector plate of your ULTIMA telescope. Special care should be taken when cleaning any instrument so as not to damage the optics.

If dust builds up on the corrector plate, remove it with a brush (made of camel's hair) or a can of pressurized air. When using pressurized air, spray at an angle to the corrector for approximately two to four seconds. Then, use an optical cleaning solution and white, unscented (Kleenex type) tissue paper to remove any remaining debris. Apply the solution to the tissue and then apply the tissue paper to the lens. Low pressure strokes should go from the center of the corrector to the outer edge. Do NOT rub in circles!

You can use a commercially made lens cleaner or mix your own. A good cleaning solution is isopropyl alcohol mixed with distilled water. The solution should be 60% isopropyl alcohol and 40% distilled water. Or, liquid dish soap diluted with water (a couple of drops per one quart of water) can be used.

Occasionally, you may experience dew build-up on the corrector plate of your telescope during an observing session. If you want to continue observing, the dew must be removed, either with a hair dryer or by pointing the telescope at the ground until the dew has evaporated.

If moisture condenses on the inside of the corrector, place the telescope in a dust-free environment. Remove the accessories from the rear cell and point the telescope down. This will remove the moisture from the telescope tube.

To minimize the need to clean your telescope, replace all lens covers once you have finished using it. Since the rear cell is NOT sealed, the cover should be placed over the opening when not in use. This prevents contaminants from entering the optical tube.

Internal adjustments and cleaning should be done only by the Celestron repair department. If your telescope is in need of internal cleaning, please call the factory for a return authorization number and price quote.

COLLIMATION

The optical performance of your Celestron its optical system. Your Celestron Ultima was collimated at the factory after it was completely assembled. However, if the telescope is dropped or jarred severely during transport, it may have to be collimated. The only optical element that may need to be adjusted, or is possible, is the tilt of the secondary mirror.

Collimation is the alignment of the optical elements. In the Schmidt-Cassegrain optical system used in the Ultima, this is the alignment of the primary and secondary mirrors.

telescope is directly related to its collimation, the alignment of

Telescope Maintenance 58

To check the collimation of your telescope you will need a light source. A bright star near the zenith is ideal since there is a minimal amount of atmospheric distortion. Turn your telescope drive on so that you won't have to manually track the star. If you're are not using the clock drive, use Polaris. It’s position relative to the celestial pole means that it moves very little thus eliminating the need to manually track it.

Before you begin the collimation process, be sure that your telescope is in thermal equilibrium with the surroundings. Allow 45 minutes for the telescope to reach equilibrium if you move it between large temperature extremes.

To verify collimation, view a star near the zenith. Use a medium to high power ocular—12mm to 6mm focal length. It is important to center a star in the center of the field to judge collimation. Slowly cross in and out of focus and judge the symmetry of the star. If you see a systematic skewing of the star to one side, then re-collimation is needed.

To accomplish this, you need to locate the secondary alignment screws which are located on the secondary mirror housing. The secondary mirror housing is mounted in the center of the corrector plate. On most models it will be necessary to remove the orange cover which covers the three secondary alignment screws. The cover just snaps off. You need to tighten the secondary collimation screw(s) that move the star across the field toward the direction of the skewed light. These screws are located in the secondary mirror holder. Make only a small 1/6 to 1/8 field correction and re-center the star by moving the scope before making any improvements or before making further adjustments.

When using higher power, 6mm and above, collimation is best accomplished with the telescope in focus. In this instance, you are observing the Airy disk (see figure 8-1), not the shadow of the secondary housing. This (stellar) image will appear as a bright point of light with a diffraction ring around it. When the point of light is perfectly centered within the diffraction ring, your telescope is in collimation. Keep in mind that to use high power, the seeing conditions must be very good.

Perfect collimation will yield a star or planetary image very symmetrical just inside and outside of focus. In addition, perfect collimation delivers the optimal optical performance specifications that your telescope is built to achieve.

If seeing (i.e., air steadiness) is turbulent, collimation is difficult to judge. Wait until a better night if it is turbulent or aim to a steadier part of the sky. A steadier part of the sky is judged by steady versus twinkling stars.

THE ADJUSTMENT SCREWS ON THE SECONDARY MIRROR ARE VERY SENSITIVE. USUALLY A TENTH OF A TURN WILL COMPLETELY CHANGE THE COLLIMATION OF THE TELESCOPE. DO NOT FORCE THESE SCREWS IF THEY WILL NOT TURN. IF TIGHTENING ONE SCREW IN THE DIRECTION YOU NEED TO GO IS DIFFICULT, SIMPLY LOOSEN THE OTHER TWO SCREWS BY EQUAL AMOUNTS TO BRING ABOUT THE SAME CHANGE. DO NOT BE INTIMIDATED TO TOUCH UP COLLIMATION AS NEEDED TO ACHIEVE OPTIMAL HIGH-RESOLUTION VIEWS. IT IS WORTH THE TROUBLE!!!!

Telescope Maintenance 59

OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES

The following is a partial list of optional accessories that can be used with your Celestron telescope.

Accessory Case (#93500) - This rugged ABS plastic case is designed for carrying a few accessories. Inside

is foam padding that is die cut to l x l inch squares. These squares can be removed to accommodate accessories with a custom fit.

Advanced Astro Master (#93900) - Imagine observing hundreds of deep-sky objects in one night. With

the Advanced Astro Master you don't have to imagine! This unique accessory contains a data base of more than 10,000 objects! Included are the Messier catalog, NGC catalog, IC catalog, portions of the ESO catalog, portions of the UGC catalog, special non-stellar catalog which contains objects not found in any of the other catalogs, a star catalog containing 241 interesting double and multiple stars, and a user definable catalog that allows you to enter 25 of your favorite objects. And, scrolling information cross references Sky Atlas 2000.0 or Uranometria . Unlike other digital setting circles, which require the use of a clock drive, the Advanced Astro Master can be used with or without a clock drive. All you have to do is align on any two of the 28 navigational alignment stars in the Advanced Astro Master's data base and you are ready to observe. Once aligned, the system keeps track of where it is pointed. And, the Advanced Astro Master now has an RS 232 port for complete interface to your personal computer. The RS 232 cable (#93921) is currently available and ready for shipment.

Barlow Lenses - A Barlow lens is a negative lens that increases the focal length of a telescope. Used with

any eyepiece, it doubles the magnification of that eyepiece. Celestron offers two Barlow lenses in the 11/4" size for the C8 telescope. The 2x Ultima Barlow (#93506) is a compact triplet design that is fully multicoated for maximum light transmission and parfocal when used with the Ultima eyepieces. It works very well with all Celestron eyepieces. The latest Barlow to be added to Celestron's product line (#93507) is a low profile achromatic design. It weighs just 4 oz. and it is under 3" in length.

Collimated Barlow Diagonal-11/4 (94117) - An ultra compact 90º barlow diagonal. It contains an integral

1.7X large aperture multi-coated achromatic Barlow lens. The diagonal is laser aligned (collimated) for rotating centration. Ideal for visual centering of CCD objects and critical setting circle use.

Counterweight Bar Assembly (#94192) - When attaching optional accessories to your 11" telescope, like

2" eyepieces or cameras, there is the need to add weights to counterbalance the telescope. This unique design produces the best dynamic balance of any counterweight system on the market. Not only do the weights slide parallel to the telescope tube, but they can also be adjusted vertically. Included is one 2.5 pound weight. Additional counterweights are available in 2.5 (#94193) and 5 pound (#94194) sizes.

Dew Eliminator (#94122) - The Dew Eliminator blows warm air to keep your corrector plate and any

optional accessories dew-free.

Diagonal, 2 inch (#93519) - Like the l-l/4" Diagonals, the 2" Star Diagonal allows you to use 2" eyepieces

with your Celestron telescope. These larger eyepieces offer wider fields and better eye relief for greater viewing comfort.

Erect Image Diagonal (#94112-A & 94108) - For daytime terrestrial viewing the Erect Image Diagonal

produces images through your Fastar that match what you see with the unaided eye. This accessory uses an Amici prism arrangement that corrects the image. The model #94112-A allows you to look into the telescope at a 45° angle, a desirable arrangement for terrestrial viewing. If you desire to view at a 90º angle, then model #94108 is available.

Eyepiece Filters - To enhance your visual observations of planetary objects, Celestron offers a wide range

of colored filters that thread into the 1-1/4" oculars. Available are: #12 Deep Yellow, #21 Orange, #25 Red, #58 Green, #80A Light Blue, #96 Neutral Density (25% T and 13% T) and Polarizing filters. Filters are also available in sets of four.

This accessory is NOT recommended for use with the Reducer/Corrector Lens.

Eyepieces - Like telescopes, eyepieces come in a variety of designs. And, with the advent of different

Ultima 91/4 and Ultima 11 Manual

eyepieces, Celestron also has a variety of designs each with its own advantages and disadvantages. For the 1-1 /4" barrel diameter there are four different eyepiece designs available.

SMA - The SMA design is an improved version of the Kelner eyepiece. SMA’s are very good,

•

economical, general purpose eyepieces. Available in the focal lengths 6mm, 10mm, 12mm, and 25mm.

Plössl - Plössl eyepieces have a 4-element lens designed for low-to-high power observing. The Plössl’s

•

offer razor sharp views across the entire field, even at the edges! In the 1-1/4" barrel diameter, they are available in the following focal lengths: 6.3mm, 7.5mm, 10mm, 12.5mm, 17mm, 20mm, 26mm, 32mm, and 40mm.

Ultima - Ultima is not really a design, but a trade name for our 5-element, wide field eyepieces. In the

•

1-1/4" barrel diameter, they are available in the following focal lengths: 5mm, 7.5mm, 12.5mm, 18mm, 24mm, 30mm, 35mm, and 42mm. These eyepieces are all parfocal. The 35mm Ultima gives the widest possible field of view with a 1-1/4" diagonal and is ideal for the C8 with or without the Reducer/Corrector.

Lanthanum Eyepieces (LV Series) - Lanthanum is a unique rare earth glass used in one of the field

•

lenses of this new eyepiece. The Lanthunum glass reduces aberrations to a minimum. All are fully multicoated and have an astounding 20mm of eye relief-perfect for eyeglass wearers! They are available in the 1-

/4” barrel diameter in the following focal lengths: 2.5mm, 4mm, 5mm, 6mm, 9mm, 10mm, 12mm, 15mm. Also available is an LV Zoom Eyepiece with the focal length range of 8 to 24mm.

In addition to the previously mentioned, there is also a deluxe compact zoom ocular (#93306) that has a variable focal length of 6.5 to 18mm.

Finderscopes - Finderscopes are used to help you locate objects in the main telescope. The larger the

finder, the more you will see, making it easier to locate objects. One option for finders is the illuminated Polaris 7x50 Finder is the 9x50 Finder Release Finder bracket

(#93785-8P). It comes with the bracket, finderscope, and illuminator. Another option

(93783-8). This includes the finder, and the finder bracket. There is also a Quick

(#51149-A) which allows you to easily remove and replace the finderscope without

loosing alignment. The Quick Release Bracket is only available for the 9x50 and 7x50 Finderscopes.

Another tool for finding objects in the sky is the

Star Pointer (#51630). The Star Pointer is different from

a finderscope in that you can use both eyes when pointing the telescope at an object. A partially reflective surface projects the image of an LED illuminated pinpoint into the line of sight. Just align the illuminated pinpoint with the object you are interested in and the object will be in the main telescope.

Flashlight (#93592) - The LED flashlight uses a red LED to allow reading star maps without ruining your

night vision. The LED flashlight is small, only 6 inches long, and weighs in at a mere 3 ounces.

Flashlight, Night Vision (#93588) - Celestron’s premium model for astronomy, using two red LEDs to

preserve night vision. The brightness is adjustable and it operates on a single 9V battery.

Light Pollution Reduction (LPR) Filters - These filters are designed to enhance your views of deep-sky

astronomical objects when viewed from urban areas. LPR Filters selectively reduce the transmission of certain wavelengths of light, specifically those produced by artificial lights. This includes mercury and high and low pressure sodium vapor lights. In addition, they also block unwanted natural light (sky glow) caused by neutral oxygen emission in our atmosphere. Celestron offers a model for 1-l/4" eyepieces (#94126A) and a model that attaches to the rear cell ahead of the star diagonal and visual back (#94127A).

Micro Guide Eyepiece (#94171)

- This multipurpose illuminated 12.5mm reticle can be used for guiding deep-sky astrophotos, measuring position angles, angular separations, and more. The laser etched reticle provides razor sharp lines and the variable brightness illuminator is completely cordless. The micro guide

Ultima 91/4 and Ultima 11 Manual

eyepiece produces 160 power when used with the C8 at f/10.

Piggyback Mount (#93598) - The best way to enter the realm of deep-sky photography is via the

piggyback method. Piggyback photography allows you to record constellations and large scale nebulae that don't fit in the field of your telescope. The piggyback mount allows you to attach a camera to the top of the telescope. This way, the camera can photograph with its normal or wide angle lens while you guide through the telescope. The piggyback mount attaches to the rear cell of the telescope next to the finder.

Planisphere - A map of the night sky, oriented by month and day, to display exactly which stars and planets

will be visible. There are three different models to match the latitude from which you’re observing. For 20º to 40º latitude -

93720-30, for 30º to 50º latitude - 93720-40, and for 40º to 60º - 93720-50.

Polarizing Filter Set (#93608) - The polarizing filter set limits the transmission of light to a specific plane,

thus increasing contrast between various objects. This is used primarily for terrestrial, lunar, and planetary observing.

Pulstar Illuminator - #60001

Celestron’s Pulstar Illuminator is an innovative new design that takes pulsing illuminators to a new level of performance. Not only does it allow for easy adjustment of pulsing rates and timing intervals, it also has adjustable brightness level and an important automatic shutdown feature to save you the frustration of a dead battery, which is a common problem with older illuminators.

Radial Guider (#94176) - The Celestron Radial Guider is specifically designed for use in prime focus,

deep-sky astrophotography and takes the place of the T-Adapter. This device allows you to photograph and guide simultaneously through the optical tube assembly of your telescope. This type of guiding produces the best results since what you see through the guiding eyepiece is exactly reproduced on the processed film. The Radial guider is a "T'-shaped assembly that attaches to the rear cell of the telescope. As light from the telescope enters the guider, most passes straight through to the camera. A small portion, however, is diverted by a prism at an adjustable angle up to the guiding eyepiece. This guider has two features not found on other off-axis guiders; first, the prism and eyepiece housing rotate independently of the camera orientation making the acquisition of a guide star quite easy. Second, the prism angle is tunable allowing you to look at guide stars on-axis.

Reducer/Corrector (#94175) - This lens reduces the focal length of the telescope by 37%, making your

f/10 telescope a f/6.3 instrument. In addition, this unique lens also corrects inherent aberrations to produce crisp images all the way across the field. It also increases the field of view significantly and is ideal for wide-field, deep-sky viewing. It is perfect for beginning prime focus long-exposure astrophotography. It makes guiding easier and exposures shorter.

Sky Maps (#93722) - When learning the night sky, the Celestron Sky Maps offer the ideal solution. The

maps include all the constellations and brighter deep-sky objects. The maps are printed on a heavy stock paper that is moisture-resistant. On the front cover is a rotating planisphere which indicates when specific constellations are visible.

Skylight Filter (#93621) - The Skylight Filter is used on C8 telescopes as a dust seal. The filter threads

onto the rear cell of your telescope. All other accessories, both visual and photographic, thread onto the Skylight Filter. Although it does cut down on a portion of the incoming light, it is a very small amount. It should be noted, that most Barlow lenses can NOT be inserted into the visual back when the skylight filter is attached.

Solar Filter (#94166) - The Celestron Solar Skreen solar filter permits direct observation of the Sun in

complete safety. This filter, which transmits .001% of visible light, allow you to see sunspots as they move across the solar disk. In addition to reducing the intensity of the Sun's visible light, it also blocks 99.999% of invisible infrared light. The Celestron Solar Skreen solar filter is made of precision engineered Mylar polyester film. A layer of aluminum is vacuum-deposited on one surface of the dual sheets of Mylar used to make each filter. The aluminum coating produces a cool, comfortable pale blue image of the Sun. A #21 orange eyepiece filter works well in conjunction with this filter to produce a more natural color Sun. This filter can be used for visual observation and photography. This model is available for the 9

/4" telescopes

Ultima 91/4 and Ultima 11 Manual

only.

T-Adapter (#93633-A) - A T-Adapter (with T-Ring) allows you to attach your camera to the prime focus

of a Celestron Schmidt-Cassegrain telescope. This is used for terrestrial photography and short exposure lunar and filtered solar photography. It can be used for long exposure deep-sky photography if you use a separate guidescope.

T-Adapter/Barlow (#93640) - A special T-Adapter with an integral 2x Barlow lens. The barlow is

removable so you can attach your camera to your Fastar and shoot at prime focus or 2x prime focus.

T-C Adapter (#93636) - This adapter allows you to couple a video or movie camera to a telescope. The

camera must have a removable lens with a standard "C" thread. The T-C adapter threads into the camera and then onto the T-Adapter.

T-Ring - The T-Ring couples your camera body to the T-Adapter, Radial Guider Body, or Tele-Extender.

This accessory is mandatory if you want to do astrophotography through the telescope. Each camera make (i.e., Minolta, Nikon, etc.) has its own unique mount and therefore, its own T-Ring.

Tele-Extender, Deluxe (#93643) - The tele-extender is a hollow tube that allows you to attach a camera to

the telescope when the eyepiece is installed. This accessory is used for eyepiece projection photography which allows you to capture very high power views of the Sun, Moon, and planets on film. The teleextender fits over the eyepiece onto the visual back.

Vibration Suppression Pads (#93503) - These pads reduce the amplitude and vibration time of your

telescope when shaken by the wind or an accidental bump. They rest between the ground and tripod feet of your telescope. VSPs are recommended for all observing conditions.

A full description of all Celestron accessories can be found in the Celestron Accessory Catalog (#93685).

Ultima 91/4 and Ultima 11 Manual

THE MESSIER CATALOG

The Messier Catalog, compiled by Charles Messier, was the first extensive listing of star clusters and nebulae. Messier’s primary observational purpose was to discover comets. He compiled this list so that others searching for comets would not be confused by these objects. His list still remains popular today because all of these objects are easily visible in amateur telescopes.

M# NGC# Const. R.A. DEC Mag Type Proper Name

M1 NGC 1952 Tau 05 34.5 22 01 8.4 P. Neb. Crab Nebula M2 NGC 7089 Aqr 21 33.5 -00 49 6.5 Gl. Cl. M3 NGC 5272 CVn 13 42.2 28 23 6.4 Gl. Cl. M4 NGC 6121 Sco 16 23.6 -26 32 5.9 Gl. Cl. M5 NGC 5904 Ser 15 18.5 02 05 5.8 Gl. Cl.

M6 NGC 6405 Sco 17 40.0 -32 13 4.2 Op. Cl. Butterfly Cluster M7 NGC 6475 Sco 17 54.0 -34 49 3.3 Op. Cl. M8 NGC 6523 Sgr 18 03.7 24 23 5.8 D. Neb Lagoon Nebula M9 NGC 6333 Oph 17 19.2 -18 31 7.9 Gl. Cl. M10 NGC 6254 Oph 16 57.2 -4 06 6.6 Gl. Cl.

M11 NGC 6705 Sct 18 51.1 -6 16 5.8 Op. Cl. Wild Duck Cluster M12 NGC 6218 Oph 16 47.2 -1 57 6.6 Gl. Cl. M13 NGC 6205 Her 16 41.7 36 28 5.9 Gl. Cl. Hercules Cluster M14 NGC 6402 Oph 17 37.6 -3 15 7.6 Gl. Cl. M15 NGC 7078 Peg 21 30.0 12 10 6.4 Gl. Cl.

M16 NGC 6611 Ser 18 18.9 13 47 6.0 D. Neb Eagle Nebula M17 NGC 6618 Sgr 18 20.8 16 11 7.0 D. Neb. Omega Nebula M18 NGC 6613 Sgr 18 19.9 -17 08 6.9 Op. Cl. M19 NGC 6273 Oph 17 02.6 -26 16 7.2 Gl. Cl. M20 NGC 6514 Sgr 18 02.4 -23 02 8.5 D. Neb. Trifid Nebula

M21 NGC 6531 Sgr 18 04.7 22 30 5.9 Op. Cl. M22 NGC 6656 Sgr 18 36.4 23 54 5.1 Gl. Cl. M23 NGC 6494 Sgr 17 56.9 19 01 5.5 Op. Cl. M24 NGC 6603 Sgr 18 16.4 18 29 4.5 Op. Cl. M25 IC 4725 Sgr 18 31.7 19 15 4.6 Op. Cl.

M26 NGC 6694 Sct 18 45.2 -9 24 8.0 Op. Cl. M27 NGC 6853 Vul 19 59.6 22 43 8.1 P. Neb. Dumbbell Nebula M28 NGC 6626 Sgr 18 24.6 -24 52 6.9 Gl. Cl. M29 NGC 6913 Cyg 20 23.0 38 32 6.6 Op. Cl. M30 NGC 7099 Cap 21 40.4 -23 11 7.5 Gl. Cl.

Ultima 91/4 and Ultima 11 Manual

M# NGC# Const. R.A. DEC Mag Type Proper Name

M31 NGC 224 And 0 42.7 41 16 3.4 Sp. Gx. Andromeda Galaxy M32 NGC 221 And 0 42.7 40 52 8.2 El. Gx. M33 NGC 598 Tri 1 33.8 30 39 5.7 Sp. Gx. Pinwheel Galaxy M34 NGC 1039 Per 2 42.0 42 47 5.2 Op. Cl. M35 NGC 2168 Gem 6 08.8 24 20 5.1 Op. Cl.

M36 NGC 1960 Aur 5 36.3 34 08 6.0 Op. Cl. M37 NGC 2099 Aur 5 52.0 32 33 5.6 Op. Cl. M38 NGC 1912 Aur 5 28.7 35 50 6.4 Op. Cl. M39 NGC 7092 Cyg 21 32.3 48 26 4.6 Op. Cl. M40 UMa 12 22.2 58 05 8.0 dbl

M41 NGC 2287 CMa 6 47.0 -20 44 4.5 Op. Cl. M42 NGC 1976 Ori 5 35.3 -5 27 4.0 D. Neb. Great Orion Nebula M43 NGC 1982 Ori 5 35.5 -5 16 9.0 D. Neb. M44 NGC 2632 Cnc 8 40.0 19 59 3.1 Op. Cl. Beehive Cluster M45 Tau 3 47.5 24 07 1.2 Op. Cl. Pleiades

M46 NGC 2437 Pup 7 41.8 -14 49 6.1 Op. Cl. M47 NGC 2422 Pup 7 36.6 -14 30 4.4 Op. Cl. M48 NGC 2548 Hya 8 13.8 -5 48 5.8 Op. Cl. M49 NGC 4472 Vir 12 29.8 8 00 8.4 El. Gx. M50 NGC 2323 Mon 7 03.0 -8 20 5.9 Op. Cl.

M51 NGC

CVn 13 29.9 47 12 8.1 Sp. Gx. Whirlpool Galaxy

5194-5 M52 NGC 7654 Cas 23 24.2 61 35 6.9 Op. Gx. M53 NGC 5024 Com 13 12.9 18 10 7.7 Gl. Cl. M54 NGC 6715 Sgr 18 55.1 -30 29 7.7 Gl. Cl. M55 NGC 6809 Sgr 19 40 .0 -30 58 7.0 Gl. Cl.

M56 NGC 6779 Lyr 19 16.6 30 11 8.2 Gl. Cl. M57 NGC 6720 Lyr 18 53.6 33 02 9.0 P. Neb. Ring Nebula M58 NGC 4579 Vir 12 37.7 11 49 9.8 Sp. Gx. M59 NGC 4621 Vir 12 42.0 11 39 9.8 El. Gx. M60 NGC 4649 Vir 12 43.7 11 33 8.8 El. Gx.

M61 NGC 4303 Vir 12 21.9 4 28 9.7 Sp. Gx. M62 NGC 6266 Oph 17 01.2 -30 07 6.6 Gl. Cl. M63 NGC 5055 CVn 13 15.8 42 02 8.6 Sp. Gx. Sunflower Galaxy M64 NGC 4826 Com 12 56.7 21 41 8.5 Sp. Gx. Black Eye Galaxy M65 NGC 3623 Leo 11 18.9 13 05 9.3 Sp. Gx. Leo’s Triplet

M66 NGC 3627 Leo 11 20.3 12 59 9.0 Sp. Gx. Leo’s Triplet M67 NGC 2682 Cnc 8 50.3 11 49 6.9 Op. Cl. M68 NGC 4590 Hya 12 39.5 -26 45 8.2 Gl. Cl. M69 NGC 6637 Sgr 18 31.4 -32 21 7.7 Gl. Cl. M70 NGC 6681 Sgr 18 43.2 -32 18 8.1 Gl. Cl.

Ultima 91/4 and Ultima 11 Manual

M# NGC# Const. R.A. DEC Mag Type Proper Name

M71 NGC 6838 Sge 19 53.7 18 47 8.3 Gl. Cl. M72 NGC 6981 Aqr 20 53.5 -12 32 9.4 Gl. Cl. M73 NGC 6994 Aqr 20 58.0 -12 38 ast M74 NGC 628 Psc 1 36.7 15 47 9.2 S M75 NGC 6864 Sgr 20 06.1 -21 55 8.6 Gl Cl.

M76 NGC 650

Per 1 42.2 51 34 11.5 P. Neb. Cork Nebula

& 651 M77 NGC 1068 Cet 2 42.7 0 01 8.8 Sp. Gx. M78 NGC 2068 Ori 5 46.7 0 03 8.0 D. Neb. M79 NGC 1904 Lep 5 24.2 -24 33 8.0 Gl. Cl. M80 NGC 6093 Sco 16 17.0 -22 59 7.2 Gl. Cl.

M81 NGC 3031 UMa 9 55.8 69 04 6.8 Sp. Gx. Bodes Nebula M82 NGC 3034 UMa 9 56.2 69 41 8.4 Ir. Gx. M83 NGC 5236 Hya 13 37.7 -29 52 7.6 Sp. Gx. M84 NGC 4374 Vir 12 25.1 12 53 9.3 El. Gx. M85 NGC 4382 Com 12 25.4 18 11 9.2 El. Gx.

M86 NGC 4406 Vir 12 26.2 12 57 9.2 El. Gx. M87 NGC 4486 Vir 12 30.8 12 24 8.6 El. Gx. Virgo A M88 NGC 4501 Com 12 32.0 14 25 9.5 Sp. Gx. M89 NGC 4552 Vir 12 35.7 12 33 9.8 El. Gx. M90 NGC 4569 Vir 12 36.8 13 10 9.5 Sp. Gx.

M91 NGC 4548 Com 12 35.4 14 30 10.2 Sp. Gx. M92 NGC 6341 Her 17 17.1 43 08 6.5 Gl. Cl. M93 NGC 2447 Pup 7 44.6 -23 52 6.2 Op. Cl. M94 NGC 4736 CVn 12 50.9 41 07 8.1 Sp. Gx. M95 NGC 3351 Leo 10 44.0 11 42 9.7 Sp. Gx.

M96 NGC 3368 Leo 10 46.8 11 49 9.2 Sp. Gx. M97 NGC 3587 UMa 11 14.9 55 01 11.2 P. Neb. Owl Nebula M98 NGC 4192 Com 12 13.8 14 54 10.1 Sp. Gx. M99 NGC 4254 Com 12 18.8 14 25 9.8 Sp. Gx. Pinwheel Nebula M100 NGC 4321 Com 12 22.9 15 49 9.4 Sp. Gx.

M101 NGC 5457 UMa 14 03.2 54 21 7.7 Sp. Gx. M102 NGC 5457 UMa 14 03.2 54 21 7.7 dup M103 NGC 581 Cas 1 33.1 60 42 7.4 Op. Cl. M104 NGC 4594 Vir 12 40.0 -11 37 8.3 Sp. Gx. Sombrero Galaxy M105 NGC 3379 Leo 10 47.9 12 35 9.3 El. Gx..

M106 NGC 4258 CVn 12 19.0 47 18 8.3 Sp. Gx. M107 NGC 6171 Oph 16 32.5 -13 03 8.1 Gl. Cl. M108 NGC 3556 UMa 11 11.6 55 40 10.0 Sp. Gx. M109 NGC 3992 UMa 11 57.7 53 23 9.8 Sp. Gx. M110 NGC 205 And 0 40.3 41 41 8.0 El. Gx.

Ultima 91/4 and Ultima 11 Manual

Object Abbreviations:

• Sp. Gx. Spiral Galaxy

• El. Gx. Elliptical Galaxy

• Ir. Gx. Irregular Galaxy

• Op. Cl. Open Cluster

• Gl. Cl. Globular Cluster

• D. Neb. Diffuse Nebula

• P. Neb. Planetary Nebula

NOTE: All coordinates for the objects in the Messier catalog are listed in epoch 2000.00.

Ultima 91/4 and Ultima 11 Manual

LIST OF BRIGHT STARS

The following is a list of bright stars that can be used to align the R.A. setting circle. All coordinates are in epoch 2000.0.

Star Name H M S R.A.

Sirius CMa 06 45 09 -16 42 58 -1.47 Canopus Car 06 23 57 -52 41 44 -0.72 Arcturus Boo 14 1540 +19 1057 -0.72 Rigel Kent. Cen 14 39 37 -60 50 02 +0.01 Vega Lyr 18 3656 +38 4701 +0.04

Capella Aur 05 16 41 +45 59 53 +0.05 Rigel Ori 05 14 32 -08 12 06 +0.14 Procyon CMi 07 38 18 +05 1330 +037 Betelgeuse Ori 05 55 10 +07 24 26 +O.41 Achernar Eri 01 3743 -57 14 12 +0.60

Hadar Cen 14 03 49 -60 22 22 +0.63 Altair Aqi 19 5047 +08 52 06 +0.77 Aldebaran Tau 04 35 55 +16 30 33 +0.86 Spica Vir 13 25 12 -11 0941 +091 Antares Sco 16 29 24 -26 25 55 +0.92

Fomalhaut PsA 22 57 39 -29 37 20 +1.15 Pollux Gem 07 45 19 +28 01 34 +1.16 Deneb Cyg 20 41 26 +45 16 49 +1.28 Beta Crucis Cru 12 47 43 -59 41 19 +1.28 Regulus Leo 10 08 22 +11 58 02 +1.36

Epoch 2000.0

H M S

DEC ° ‘ “

Magnitude

Ultima 91/4 and Ultima 11 Manual 68

Ultima 91/4 and Ultima 11 Manual

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Below is pertinent technical information on your Celestron Ultima 9 may find useful.

GENERAL:

Ultima 9 Optical System: Schmidt-Cassegrain Schmidt-Cassegrain

Aperture: 9.25" (235mm) 11" (279mm) Focal Length: 2350mm (92.5") 2790mm (110") F/ratio: f/10 f/10 Secondary Mirror Diameter Obstruction Aluminized Surface

3.35” or (13.1% by area)

2.75” Highest Useful Power Magnification: 555x 660x Lowest Useful Power Magnification: 34x 40x Resolution: (Rayleigh Criterion) (Dawes Criterion)

0.58 arc seconds

0.49 arc seconds Photographic Resolution: 182 lines pairs/mm Photographic Power 47 56 Exit Pupil with standard eyepiece: 2.5mm 2.6mm Light Gathering Power: 1127x unaided eye 1593x unaided eye Limiting Visual Magnitude: 14.4 14.7 Near Focus with eyepiece: with camera: Optical Tube Length (including handle) 21 Front Cell Outer Diameter 10 Total System Weight Weight of Optical Tube Weight of Drivebase and Fork Arms

~27ft. ~27ft.

/8” (23”) 22” (231/2”)

/2” 125/16” 41 Lbs. 20 Lbs. 21 Lbs.

TRIPOD / WEDGE

• Height of tripod: minimum maximum

• Length of legs: minimum maximum

28”

50.5”

31” 57”

• Tripod weight: 19 Lbs. 19 Lbs.

• Wedge weight 14 Lbs. 14 Lbs.

/4 and the Ultima 11 telescope that you

/4 Ultima 11

3.875” or (12.4% by area)

3.10”

0.46 arc seconds

0.41 arc seconds

182 lines pairs/mm

~60ft ~60ft

47 Lbs. 25 Lbs. 22 Lbs.

28”

50.5”

31” 57”

Ultima 9

/4 and Ultima 11 Manual 69

Ultima 91/4 and Ultima 11 Manual

Celestron ULTIMA 91/4, ULTIMA 11 User Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual