THIS MANUAL CONTAINS IMPORTANT SAFETY,
PERFORMANCE AND SERVICE INFORMATION.
Read it before you take the first ride on your new
bicycle, and keep it for reference.
CONGRATULATIONS ON YOUR PURCHASE OF A
CANNONDALE BICYCLE.
our products:
1. We think riding a bike is fun! Which means all of us at Cannondale are lucky enough to
do what we enjoy. You’ll see that dedication to our craft in every bicycle we make.
2. Our dedication to craft includes dreaming up new ways to pioneer improvements for the
industry – things like System Integration and the BB30 Standard. Later, other manufacturers
often “borrow” our ideas, but that’s okay. After all, more people on bikes is good for everyone.
3. Because bike riding is so much fun, we encourage you to partake whenever the whim
strikes you: Going to the grocery store, going to work, going to school, or wherever you
go. Bikes are serious transportation, in addition to being outrageously good fun.
4. To keep your bike in top condition and to minimize risk, please read this manual before your first ride and refer to this manual whenever you have questions about its operation.
5. We encourage you to visit your local Independent Bike Dealer. Many of us had our first jobs in
bike shops, and your local Cannondale dealer is an important source of information for you.
USE OF THIS MANUAL
Cannondale Bicycle Owner’s Manual
This manual contains important information
aecting your safety and the proper use of bicycles.
It is a very important manual for every bike we make.
It is organized into two parts:
PART I
Is a generic guide to the proper function and use
of bicycles. This generic information is used by
many bike companies. Most aspects of bicycles are
common or “generic.” PART I of this manual is the
10th edition of the generic manual.
PART II
Contains information specific to Cannondale bicycles
and topics we feel you need to know and understand
about our bikes.
A manual alone cannot teach you how to ride, and a
manual the size of an encyclopedia could not cover
every combination of bicycle, rider and conditions.
Thus, as a reasonable person would expect, the
Cannondale manuals and supplements focus on the
bicycle, not teaching you to ride.
This manual is not intended as a comprehensive use,
service, repair or maintenance manual. It contains
no assembly instructions. This manual is not a
service manual for any parts of your bike. Please see
your dealer for all service, repairs or maintenance.
Your dealer may also be able to refer you to classes or
books on bicycle use, and maintenance.
Owner’s Manual Supplements
Cannondale Owner’s Manual Supplements are
“supplements” to this manual providing important
additional model specific safety, maintenance, and
technical information. Cannondale Owner’s Manual
Supplements are not replacements for this or any
other manual for your bike.
You can download Adobe Acrobat PDF versions of
any Cannondale Owner’s Manual or Owner’s Manual
Supplements or Tech Notes from our website. Go to:
http://www.cannondale.com.
Other Manuals & Instructions
Many of the components on your bike were not
made by Cannondale. When available from the
manufacturer, Cannondale packages these manuals
and/or instructions with our bikes for delivery to you.
We strongly recommend that you read and follow
all the manufacturer’s specific instructions included
with your bike.
Authorized Cannondale Retailers
Your local Authorized Cannondale Retailer is your
primary contact for service and adjustment of your
bicycle, instruction in its use, and any warranty
questions.
Your new bike is to be delivered by a Authorized
Cannondale Retailer to you in a completely
assembled and properly adjusted condition,
complete with all required safety equipment,
Owner’s Manuals, any Cannondale Owner’s Manual
Supplements, and the available manufacturer’s
instructions (shipped by Cannondale) for parts and
components for your bike.
To find the Cannondale retailer closest to you, call
1-800-THE-BIKE-USA, or use our website dealer
locator at www.cannondale.com.
Use Only Genuine Replacement Parts
It is important to your safety and the performance
of your Cannondale bicycle that you use only
genuine Cannondale replacement parts in Headshok
and Lefty forks, Cannondale swingarms and rear
suspension assemblies, derailleur hangers and other
frame hardware.
These parts are described in Owners Manual
Supplements. This note does not apply to widely
used generic bicycle components such as derailleurs.
131264 (04/15)
CONTENTS
PART I
GENERAL WARNING .................................... 4
A SPECIAL NOTE FOR PARENTS ...................4
SECTION 1. FIRST ..................................... 5-8
1.A Bike Fit ................................................................5
1.B Safety First ..........................................................5
Carbon Fiber Forks And Stems ...........................96
E. Bicycle Racks ....................................................100
F. Using Bicycle Trainers .......................................102
Trainers: Risks To Children
Check for related info
in all three areas:
PART 1, PART II, and the APPENDIX.
SECTION G. PRE-RIDE CHECKLIST .............. 89
3
PART I
GENERAL WARNING
Like any sport, bicycling involves risk of injury and
damage. By choosing to ride a bicycle, you assume
the responsibility for that risk, so you need to know
— and to practice — the rules of safe and responsible
riding and of proper use and maintenance. Proper
use and maintenance of your bicycle reduces risk of
injury.
This Manual contains many “Warnings” and
“Cautions” concerning the consequences of failure
to maintain or inspect your bicycle and of failure to
follow safe cycling practices.
The combination of the safety alert symbol
the word WARNING indicates a potentially hazardous
situation which, if not avoided, could result in serious
injury or death.
The combination of the safety alert symbol
and the word CAUTION indicates a potentially
hazardous situation which, if not avoided, may result
in minor or moderate injury, or is an alert against
unsafe practices.
The word CAUTION used without the safety alert
symbol indicates a situation which, if not avoided,
could result in serious damage to the bicycle or the
voiding of your warranty.
Many of the Warnings and Cautions say “you may
lose control and fall”. Because any fall can result in
serious injury or even death, we do not always repeat
the warning of possible injury or death.
Because it is impossible to anticipate every situation
or condition which can occur while riding, this
Manual makes no representation about the safe use
of the bicycle under all conditions. There are risks
associated with the use of any bicycle which cannot
be predicted or avoided, and which are the sole
responsibility of the rider.
and
A SPECIAL NOTE FOR PARENTS
WARNING
This manual does not cover Juvenile or BMX
bicycles.
As a parent or guardian, you are responsible for the
activities and safety of your minor child, and that
includes making sure that the bicycle is properly
fitted to the child; that it is in good repair and safe
operating condition; that you and your child have
learned and understand the safe operation of the
bicycle; and that you and your child have learned,
understand and obey not only the applicable local
motor vehicle, bicycle and trac laws, but also
the common sense rules of safe and responsible
bicycling. As a parent, you should read this manual,
as well as review its warnings and the bicycle’s
functions and operating procedures with your child,
before letting your child ride the bicycle.
WARNING
MAKE SURE THAT YOUR CHILD ALWAYS
WEARS AN APPROVED BICYCLE HELMET
WHEN RIDING; BUT ALSO MAKE SURE THAT
YOUR CHILD UNDERSTANDS THAT A BICYCLE
HELMET IS FOR BICYCLING ONLY, AND MUST BE
REMOVED WHEN NOT RIDING.
A helmet must not be worn while playing, in
play areas, on playground equipment, while
climbing trees, or at any time while not riding
a bicycle. Failure to follow this warning could
result in serious injury or death.
45
SECTION 1. FIRST
NOTE:
We strongly urge you to read this Manual in its
entirety before your first ride. At the very least, read
and make sure that you understand each point in
this section, and refer to the cited sections on any
issue which you don’t completely understand. Please
note that not all bicycles have all of the features
described in this manual. Ask your dealer to point out
the features of your bicycle.
1.A - BIKE FIT
1. Is your bike the right size? To check, see SECTION
3.A. If your bicycle is too large or too small for
you, You may lose control and fall. If your new
bike is not the right size, ask your dealer to
exchange it before you ride it.
2. Is the saddle at the right height? To check, see
SECTION 3.B. If you adjust your saddle height,
follow the Minimum Insertion instructions in
SECTION 3.B.
3. Are saddle and seat post securely clamped? A
correctly tightened saddle will allow no saddle
movement in any direction. See SECTION 3.B.
4. Are the stem and handlebars at the right height
for you? If not, see SECTION 3.C.
5. Can you comfortably operate the brakes? If not,
you may be able to adjust their angle and reach.
See SECTION 3.D and 3.E.
6. Do you fully understand how to operate your new
bicycle? If not, before your first ride, have your
dealer explain any functions or features which
you do not understand.
1.B - SAFETY FIRST
1. Always wear an approved helmet when riding
your bike, and follow the helmet manufacturer’s
instructions for fit, use and care.
2. Do you have all the other required and
recommended safety equipment?
See SECTION 2. It’s your responsibility to
familiarize yourself with the laws of the areas
where you ride, and to comply with all applicable
laws.
3. Do you know how to correctly operate your wheel
quick releases? Check SECTION 4.A.1 to make
sure. Riding with an improperly adjusted wheel
quick release can cause the wheel to wobble or
disengage from the bicycle, and cause serious
injury or death.
4. If your bike has toeclips and straps or clipless
(“step-in”) pedals, make sure you know how they
work (see SECTION 4.E). These pedals require
special techniques and skills. Follow the pedal
manufacturer’s instructions for use, adjustment
and care.
5. Do you have “toe overlap”? On smaller framed
bicycles your toe or toeclip may be able to
contact the front wheel when a pedal is all
the way forward and the wheel is turned. Read
SECTION 4.E. If you have toeclip overlap.
6. Does your bike have suspension? If so, check
SECTION 4.F. Suspension can change the way
a bicycle performs. Follow the suspension
manufacturer’s instructions for use, adjustment
and care.
PART I
1.C - MECHANICAL SAFETY CHECK
Routinely check the condition of your bicycle before
every ride.
Nuts, Bolts Screws & Other Fasteners
Because manufacturers use a wide variety of fastener
sizes and shapes made in a variety of materials,
often diering by model and component, the correct
tightening force or torque cannot be generalized.
To make sure that the many fasteners on your bicycle
are correctly tightened. See page 78.
Always refer to the torque specifications in the
instructions provided by the manufacturer of a
component in question.
Correctly tightening a fastener requires a calibrated
torque wrench. A professional bicycle mechanic with
a torque wrench should torque the fasteners on you
bicycle. If you choose to work on your own bicycle,
you must use a torque wrench and the correct
tightening torque specifications from the bicycle
or component manufacturer or from your dealer. If
you need to make an adjustment at home or in the
field, we urge you to exercise care, and to have the
fasteners you worked on checked by your dealer as
soon as possible.
Note that there are some components which require
special tools and knowledge. In Sections 3 and 4, we
discuss the items which you may be able to adjust
yourself. All other adjustments and repairs should be
done by a qualified bike mechanic.
WARNING
Make sure nothing is loose. Lift the front wheel o
the ground by two or three inches, then let it bounce
on the ground. Anything sound, feel or look loose?
Do a visual and tactile inspection of the whole bike.
Any loose parts or accessories? If so, secure them.
If you’re not sure, ask someone with experience to
check.
Tires & Wheels
Make sure tires are correctly inflated (see SECTION
4.G.1). Check by putting one hand on the saddle, one
on the intersection of the handlebars and stem, then
bouncing your weight on the bike while looking at tire
deflection. Compare what you see with how it looks
when you know the tires are correctly inflated; and
adjust if necessary.
Tires in good shape? Spin each wheel slowly and look
for cuts in the tread and sidewall. Replace damaged
tires before riding the bike.
Wheels true? Spin each wheel and check for brake
clearance and side-to-side wobble. If a wheel
wobbles side-to-side even slightly, or rubs against or
hits the brake pads, take the bike to a qualified bike
shop to have the wheel trued.
CAUTION
Wheels must be true for the brakes to work
eectively. Wheel trueing is a skill which
requires special tools and experience. Do not
attempt to true a wheel unless you have the
knowledge, experience and tools needed to do
the job correctly.
CORRECT TIGHTENING FORCE ON FASTENERS
–NUTS, BOLTS, SCREWS– ON YOUR BICYCLE IS
IMPORTANT.
Too little force, and the fastener may not hold
securely. Too much force, and the fastener can
strip threads, stretch, deform or break. Either
way, incorrect tightening force can result in
component failure, which can cause you to loose
control and fall.
67
Wheel rims clean and undamaged? Make sure the
rims are clean and undamaged at the tire bead and,
if you have rim brakes, along the braking surface.
Check to make sure that any rim wear indicator
marking is not visible at any point on the wheel rim.
Seat post
If your seat post has an over-center cam action
fastener for easy height adjustment, check that it
is properly adjusted and in the locked position. See
Section 4.B.
WARNING
BICYCLE WHEEL RIMS ARE SUBJECT TO WEAR.
Ask your dealer about wheel rim wear. Some
wheel rims have a rim wear indicator which
becomes visible as the rim’s braking surface
wears. A visible rim wear indicator on the side
of the wheel rim is an indication that the wheel
rim has reached its maximum usable life. Riding
a wheel that is at the end of its usable life can
result in wheel failure, which can cause you to
loose control and fall.
Brakes
Check the brakes for proper operation (see SECTION
4.C). Squeeze the brake levers. Are the brake
quick-releases closed? All control cables seated
and securely engaged? Do the brake pads contact
the wheel rim squarely and make full contact with
the rim? Do the brake pads touch the wheel rim
within an inch of brake lever movement? Can you
apply full braking force at the levers without having
them touch the handlebar? If not, your brakes need
adjustment. Do not ride the bike until the brakes are
properly adjusted by a professional bicycle mechanic.
Wheel Retention System
Make sure the front and rear wheels are correctly
secured. See SECTION 4.A
Handlebar and Saddle Alignment
Make sure the saddle and handlebar stem are parallel
to the bike’s center line and clamped tight enough
so that you can’t twist them out of alignment. See
SECTION 3.B and 3.C.
Handlebar Ends
Make sure the handlebar grips are secure and in good
condition. If not, have your dealer replace them.
Make sure the handlebar ends and extensions are
plugged. If not, plug them before you ride. If the
handlebars have bar end extensions, make sure they
are clamped tight enough so you can’t twist them.
WARNING
LOOSE OR DAMAGED HANDLEBAR GRIPS
OR EXTENSIONS CAN CAUSE YOU TO
LOSE CONTROL AND FALL. UNPLUGGED
HANDLEBARS OR EXTENSIONS CAN CUT
YOU AND CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY IN AN
OTHERWISE MINOR ACCIDENT.
VERY IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTE:
Please also read and become thoroughly familiar
with the important information on the lifespan of
your bicycle and its components in PART II, SECTION
D. INSPECT FOR SAFETY.
PART I
1.D - FIRST RIDE
When you buckle on your helmet and go for your first
familiarization ride on your new bicycle, be sure to
pick a controlled environment, away from cars, other
cyclists, obstacles or other hazards. Ride to become
familiar with the controls, features and performance
of your new bike.
Familiarize yourself with the braking action of the
bike (see SECTION 4.C). Test the brakes at slow
speed, putting your weight toward the rear and
gently applying the brakes, rear brake first. Sudden
or excessive application of the front brake could pitch
you over the handlebars. Applying brakes too hard
can lock up a wheel, which could cause you to lose
control and fall. Skidding is an example of what can
happen when a wheel locks up.
If your bicycle has toeclips or clipless pedals, practice
getting in and out of the pedals. See paragraph B.4
above and SECTION 4.E.4.
If your bike has suspension, familiarize yourself with
how the suspension responds to brake application
and rider weight shifts. See paragraph B.6 above and
SECTION 4.F.
Practice shifting the gears (see SECTION 4.D).
Remember to never move the shifter while pedaling
backward, nor pedal backwards immediately after
having moved the shifter. This could jam the chain
and cause serious damage to the bicycle.
Check out the handling and response of the bike; and
check the comfort.
If you have any questions, or if you feel anything
about the bike is not as it should be, consult your
dealer before you ride.
SECTION 2. SAFETY
WARNING
MANY STATES REQUIRE SPECIFIC SAFETY
DEVICES. IT IS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY TO
FAMILIARIZE YOURSELF WITH THE LAWS OF
THE STATE WHERE YOU RIDE AND TO COMPLY
WITH ALL APPLICABLE LAWS, INCLUDING
PROPERLY EQUIPPING YOURSELF AND YOUR
BIKE AS THE LAW REQUIRES.
Observe all local bicycle laws and regulations.
Observe regulations about bicycle lighting,
licensing of bicycles, riding on sidewalks, laws
regulating bike path and trail use, helmet laws,
child carrier laws, special bicycle trac laws.
It’s your responsibility to know and obey the
laws.
89
2.A THE BASICS
1. Always wear a cycling helmet which meets the
latest certification standards and is appropriate
for the type of riding you do. Always follow the
helmet manufacturer’s instructions for fit, use
and care of your helmet. Most serious bicycle
injuries involve head injuries which might have
been avoided if the rider had worn an appropriate
helmet.
Figure 1. Bicycle Helmet
Your helmet should be:
• U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission
(CPSC) certified (look for the label on the helmet)
• Properly Sized for You
• Properly Fitted to You
• Properly Attached to Your Head!
• Undamaged
ASK YOUR RETAILER FOR HELP
2. Always do the Mechanical Safety Check
(SECTION 1.C) before you get on a bike.
3. Be thoroughly familiar with the controls of your
bicycle: brakes (SECTION 4.C.); pedals (SECTION
4.E.); shifting (SECTION 4.D.)
4. Be careful to keep body parts and other objects
away from the sharp teeth of chainrings, the
moving chain, the turning pedals and cranks,
and the spinning wheels of your bicycle.
5. Always wear:
• Shoes that will stay on your feet and will grip the
pedals. Never ride barefoot or in sandals.
• Bright, visible clothing that is not so loose that
it can be tangled in the bicycle or snagged by
objects at the side of the road or trail.
• Protective eye wear, to protect against airborne
dirt, dust and bugs —tinted when the sun is
bright, clear when it’s not.
6. Unless you bicycle was specifically designed for
jumping, don’t jump with your bike. Jumping a
bike, particularly a BMX or mountain bike, can
be fun; but it can put huge and unpredictable
stress on the bicycle and its components.
Riders who insist on jumping their bikes risk
serious damage, to their bicycles as well as to
themselves. Before you attempt to jump, do
stunt riding or race with your bike, read and
understand SECTION 2.F.
7. Ride at a speed appropriate for conditions.
Increased speed means higher risk.
WARNING
FAILURE TO WEAR A HELMET WHEN RIDING
MAY RESULT IN SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH.
PART I
2.B - RIDING SAFETY
1. Obey all rules of the road and all local trac
laws.
2. You are sharing the road or the path with others
— motorists, pedestrians and other cyclists.
Respect their rights.
3. Ride defensively. Always assume that others do
not see you.
4. Look ahead, and be ready to avoid:
• Vehicles slowing or turning, entering the road
or your lane ahead of you, or coming up behind
you.
• Parked car doors opening.
• Pedestrians stepping out.
• Children or pets playing near the road.
• Pot holes, sewer grating, railroad tracks,
expansion joints, road or sidewalk construction,
debris and other obstructions that could cause
you to swerve into trac, catch your wheel or
otherwise cause you to lose control and have an
accident.
• The many other hazards and distractions which
can occur on a bicycle ride.
5. Ride in designated bike lanes, on designated
bike paths or as close to the edge of the road
as possible, in the direction of trac flow or as
directed by local governing laws.
6. Stop at stop signs and trac lights; slow down
and look both ways at street intersections.
Remember that a bicycle always loses in a
collision with a motor vehicle, so be prepared to
yield even if you have the right of way.
7. Use approved hand signals for turning and
stopping.
8. Never ride with headphones. They mask trac
sounds and emergency vehicle sirens, distract
you from concentrating on what’s going on
around you, and their wires can tangle in the
moving parts of the bicycle, causing you to lose
control.
9. Never carry a passenger, and before installing a
child carrier or trailer, check with you dealer or the
bicycle manufacturer to make sure the bicycle
is designed for it. If the bicycle is suitable for a
child carrier or trailer, make sure that the carrier
or trailer is correctly mounted and the child
secured and wearing an approved and properly
fitted helmet.
10. Never carry anything which obstructs your vision
or your complete control of the bicycle, or which
could become entangled in the moving parts of
the bicycle.
11. Never hitch a ride by holding on to another
vehicle.
12. Don’t do stunts, wheelies or jumps. If you intend
to do stunts, wheelies, jumps or go racing with
your bike despite our advice not to, read SECTION
2.F, Downhill, Stunt or Competition Biking, now.
Think carefully about your skills before deciding
to take the large risks that go with this kind of
riding.
13. Don’t weave through trac or make any moves
that may surprise people with whom you are
sharing the road.
14. Observe and yield the right of way.
15. Never ride your bicycle while under the influence
of alcohol or drugs.
16. If possible, avoid riding in bad weather, when
visibility is obscured, at dawn, dusk or in the
dark, or when extremely tired. Each of these
conditions increases the risk of accident.
1011
2.C - OFF-ROAD SAFETY
2.D - WET WEATHER RIDING
We recommend that children not ride on rough
terrain unless they are accompanied by an adult.
1. The variable conditions and hazards of o-road
riding require close attention and specific skills.
Start slowly on easier terrain and build up your
skills. If your bike has suspension, the increased
speed you may develop also increases your risk
of losing control and falling. Get to know how to
handle your bike safely before trying increased
speed or more dicult terrain.
2. Wear safety gear appropriate to the kind of riding
you plan to do.
3. Don’t ride alone in remote areas. Even when
riding with others, make sure that someone
knows where you’re going and when you expect
to be back.
4. Always take along some kind of identification,
so that people know who you are in case of an
accident; and take along a couple of dollars in
cash for a candy bar, a cool drink or an emergency
phone call.
5. Yield right of way to pedestrians and animals.
Ride in a way that does not frighten or endanger
them, and give them enough room so that their
unexpected moves don’t endanger you.
6. Be prepared. If something goes wrong while
you’re riding o-road, help may not be close.
7. Before you attempt to jump, do stunt riding
or race with your bike, read and understand
SECTION 2.F.
Under wet conditions, the stopping power of your
brakes (as well as the brakes of other vehicles sharing
the road) is dramatically reduced and your tires don’t
grip nearly as well. This makes it harder to control
speed and easier to lose control.
WARNING
WET WEATHER IMPAIRS TRACTION, BRAKING
AND VISIBILITY, BOTH FOR THE BICYCLIST AND
FOR OTHER VEHICLES SHARING THE ROAD.
The risk of an accident is dramatically increased
in wet conditions.
To make sure that you can slow down and stop safely
in wet conditions, ride more slowly and apply your
brakes earlier and more gradually than you would
under normal, dry conditions. See also SECTION 4.C.
O-Road Respect
Obey the local laws regulating where and how you
can ride o-road, and respect private property.
You may be sharing the trail with others — hikers,
equestrians, other cyclists. Respect their rights.
Stay on the designated trail. Don’t contribute to
erosion by riding in mud or with unnecessary sliding.
Don’t disturb the ecosystem by cutting your own
trail or shortcut through vegetation or streams. It is
your responsibility to minimize your impact on the
environment. Leave things as you found them; and
always take out everything you brought in.
PART I
2.E - NIGHT RIDING
Riding a bicycle at night is much more dangerous
than riding during the day. A bicyclist is very dicult
for motorists and pedestrians to see. Therefore,
children should never ride at dawn, at dusk or at
night. Adults who chose to accept the greatly
increased risk of riding at dawn, at dusk or at night
need to take extra care both riding and choosing
specialized equipment which helps reduce that
risk. Consult your dealer about night riding safety
equipment.
WARNING
REFLECTORS ARE NOT A SUBSTITUTE FOR
REQUIRED LIGHTS. RIDING AT DAWN, AT
DUSK, AT NIGHT OR AT OTHER TIMES OF POOR
VISIBILITY WITHOUT AN ADEQUATE BICYCLE
LIGHTING SYSTEM AND WITHOUT REFLECTORS
IS DANGEROUS AND MAY RESULT IN SERIOUS
INJURY OR DEATH.
Bicycle reflectors are designed to pick up and reflect
street lights and car lights in a way that may help you
to be seen and recognized as a moving bicyclist.
CAUTION
Check reflectors and their mounting
brackets regularly to make sure that they are
clean,straight, unbroken and securely mounted.
Have your dealer replace damaged reflectors and
straighten or tighten any that are bent or loose.
The mounting brackets of front and rear reflectors
are often designed as brake straddle cable safety
catches which prevent the straddle cable from
catching on the tire tread if the cable jumps out of its
yoke or breaks.
WARNING
DO NOT REMOVE THE FRONT OR REAR
REFLECTORS OR REFLECTOR BRACKETS FROM
YOUR BICYCLE.
They are an integral part of the bicycle’s safety
system.
REMOVING THE REFLECTORS MAY REDUCE
YOUR VISIBILITY TO OTHERS USING THE
ROADWAY. BEING STRUCK BY OTHER
VEHICLES MAY RESULT IN SERIOUS INJURY OR
DEATH.
The reflector brackets may protect you from the
brake straddle cable catching on the tire in the
event of brake cable failure. If a brake straddle
cable catches on the tire, it can cause the wheel
to stop suddenly, causing you to loose control
and fall.
If you choose to ride under conditions of poor
visibility, check and be sure you comply with all
local laws about night riding, and take the following
strongly recommended additional precautions:
• Purchase and install battery or generator
powered head and tail lights which meet all
regulatory requirements and provide adequate
visibility.
• Wear light colored, reective clothing and
accessories, such as a reflective vest, reflective
arm and leg bands, reflective stripes on your
helmet, flashing lights attached to your body
and/or your bicycle ... any reflective device or
light source that moves will help you get the
attention of approaching motorists, pedestrians
and other trac.
• Make sure your clothing or anything you may
be carrying on the bicycle does not obstruct a
reflector or light.
• Make sure that your bicycle is equipped with
correctly positioned and securely mounted
reflectors.
1213
WHILE RIDING AT DAWN, AT DUSK OR AT
NIGHT:
• Ride slowly.
• Avoid dark areas, areas of heavy or fast-
moving trac.
• Avoid road hazards.
• If possible, ride on familiar routes.
IF RIDING IN TRAFFIC:
• Be predictable. Ride so that drivers can see
you and predict your movements.
• Be alert. Ride defensively and expect the
unexpected.
• If you plan to ride in trac often, ask your
dealer about trac safety classes or a good
book on bicycle trac safety.
WARNING
ALTHOUGH MANY CATALOGS,
ADVERTISEMENTS AND ARTICLES ABOUT
BICYCLING DEPICT RIDERS ENGAGED
IN EXTREME RIDING, THIS ACTIVITY IS
EXTREMELY DANGEROUS, INCREASES YOUR
RISK OF INJURY OR DEATH, AND INCREASES
THE SEVERITY OF ANY INJURY.
Remember that the action depicted is being
performed by professionals with many years of
training and experience.
Know your limits and always wear a helmet and
other appropriate safety gear. Even with stateof-the-art protective safety gear, you could
be seriously injured or killed when jumping,
stunt riding, riding downhill at speed or in
competition.
2.F - EXTREME, STUNT OR
COMPETITION RIDING
Whether you call it Aggro, Hucking, Freeride, North
Shore, Downhill, Jumping, Stunt Riding, Racing
or something else: if you engage in this sort of
extreme, aggressive riding you will get hurt, and you
voluntarily assume a greatly increased risk of injury
or death.
Not all bicycles are designed for these types of riding,
and those that are may not be suitable for all types
of aggressive riding. Check with your dealer or the
bicycle’s manufacturer about the suitability of your
bicycle before engaging in extreme riding.
When riding fast down hill, you can reach speeds
achieved by motorcycles, and therefore face similar
hazards and risks. Have your bicycle and equipment
carefully inspected by a qualified mechanic and be
sure it is in perfect condition. Consult with expert
riders and race ocials on conditions and equipment
advisable at the site where you plan to ride. Wear
appropriate safety gear, including an approved full
face helmet, full finger gloves, and body armor.
Ultimately, it is your responsibility to have proper
equipment and to be familiar with course conditions.
WARNING
Bicycles and bicycle parts have limitations
with regard to strength and integrity, and this
type of riding can exceed those limitations or
dramatically reduce the length of their safe
use.
(continued on next page...)
PART I
(continued from previous page...)
We recommend against this type of riding because
of the increased risks; but if you choose to take the
risk, at least:
• Take lessons from a competent instructor rst
• Start with easy learning exercises and slowly
develop your skills before trying more dicult or
dangerous riding.
• Use only designated areas for stunts, jumping,
racing or fast downhill riding
• Wear a full face helmet, safety pads and other
safety gear.
• Understand and recognize that the stresses
imposed on your bike by this kind of activity may
break or damage parts of the bicycle and void the
warranty.
• Take your bicycle to your dealer if anything
breaks or bends. Do not ride your bicycle when
any part is damaged.
If you ride downhill at speed, do stunt riding or
ride in competition, know the limits of your skill
and experience. Ultimately, avoiding injury is your
responsibility.
2.G - CHANGING COMPONENTS
OR ADDING ACCESSORIES
There are many components and accessories
available to enhance the comfort, performance and
appearance of your bicycle. However, if you change
components or add accessories, you do so at your
own risk. The bicycle’s manufacturer may not have
tested that component or accessory for compatibility,
reliability or safety on your bicycle.
Before installing any component or accessory,
including a dierent size tire, make sure that it is
compatible with your bicycle by checking with your
dealer.
Be sure to read, understand and follow the
instructions that accompany the products
you purchase for your bicycle. See also
PART II, SECTION D. INSPECT FOR SAFETY.
Be sure to read, understand and follow the
instructions that accompany the products you
purchase for your bicycle. See also PART II, SECTION
D. INSPECT FOR SAFETY.
WARNING
FAILURE TO CONFIRM COMPATIBILITY,
PROPERLY INSTALL, OPERATE AND MAINTAIN
ANY COMPONENT OR ACCESSORY CAN RESULT
IN SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH.
WARNING
Changing the components on your bike
with other than genuine replacement parts
compromise the safety of your bicycle and may
void the warranty. Check with your dealer before
changing the components on your bike.
1415
SECTION 3. FIT
NOTE: Correct fit is an essential element of bicycling
safety, performance and comfort. Making the
adjustments to your bicycle which result in correct
fit for your body and riding conditions requires
experience, skill and special tools. Always have your
dealer make the adjustments on your bicycle; or, if
you have the experience, skill and tools, have your
dealer check your work before riding.
WARNING
IF YOUR BICYCLE DOES NOT FIT PROPERLY,
YOU MAY LOSE CONTROL AND FALL.
If your new bike doesn’t fit, ask your dealer to
exchange it before you ride it.
3.A - STAND OVER HEIGHT
1. Diamond frame bicycles
Stand over height is the basic element of bike fit (see
fig. 2). It is the distance from the ground to the top of
the bicycle’s frame at that point where your crotch is
when straddling the bike. To check for correct stand
over height, straddle the bike while wearing the
kind of shoes in which you’ll be riding, and bounce
vigorously on your heels. If your crotch touches the
frame, the bike is too big for you. Don’t even ride
the bike around the block. A bike which you ride only
on paved surfaces and never take o-road should
give you a minimum stand over height clearance of
two inches (5 cm). A bike that you’ll ride on unpaved
surfaces should give you a minimum of three inches
(7.5 cm) of stand over height clearance. And a bike
that you’ll use o road should give you four inches
(10 cm) or more of clearance.
Figure 2. Stand Over Height
WARNING
IF YOU PLAN TO USE YOUR BIKE FOR JUMPING
OR STUNT RIDING, READ SECTION 2.F AGAIN.
2. Step-through frame bicycles
Standover height does not apply to bicycles with
step-through frames. Instead, the limiting dimension
is determined by saddle height range. You must be
able to adjust your saddle position as described in
3.B. SADDLE POSITION without exceeding the limits
set by the height of the top of the seat tube and the
”Minimum Insertion” or “Maximum Extension” mark
on the seat post.
PART I
3.B - SADDLE POSITION
Correct saddle adjustment is an important factor in
getting the most performance and comfort from your
bicycle. If the saddle position is not comfortable for
you, see your dealer.
The saddle can be adjusted in three directions:
1. Up and Down Adjustment
To check for correct saddle height (fig. 3):
• Sit on the saddle;
• Place one heel on a pedal;
• Rotate the crank until the pedal with your heel
on it is in the down position and the crank arm is
parallel to the seat tube.
If your leg is not completely straight, your saddle
height needs to be adjusted. If your hips must
rock for the heel to reach the pedal, the saddle is
too high. If your leg is bent at the knee with your
heel on the pedal, the saddle is too low.
Once the saddle is at the correct height, make sure
that the seat post does not project from the frame
beyond its “Minimum Insertion” or “Maximum
Extension” mark (fig. 4).
NOTE: Some bicycles have a sight hole in the seat
tube, the purpose of which is to make it easy to see
whether the seat post is inserted in the seat tube
far enough to be safe. If your bicycle has such a sight
hole, use it instead of the “Minimum Insertion” or
“Maximum Extension” mark to make sure the seat
post is inserted in the seat tube far enough to be
visible through the sight hole.
If your bike has an interrupted seat tube, as is the
case on some suspension bikes, you must also make
sure that the seat post is far enough into the frame
so that you can touch it through the bottom of the
interrupted seat tube with the tip of your finger
without inserting your finger beyond its first knuckle.
Also see NOTE above and fig. 5).
WARNING
If your seat post is not inserted in the seat tube
as described in B.1 above, the seat post may
break, which could cause you to lose control
and fall.
Figure 3. Saddle Position
Ask your dealer to set the saddle for your optimal
riding position and to show you how to make this
adjustment. If you choose to make your own saddle
height adjustment:
• loosen the seat post clamp
• raise or lower the seat post in the seat tube
• make sure the saddle is straight fore and aft
• re-tighten the seat post clamp to the
recommended torque (See manufacturer’s
instructions).
Figure 4. Minimum Insertion Mark
1617
NOTE: If your bicycle is equipped with a suspension
seat post, periodically ask your dealer to check it. Ask
your dealer for recommended service intervals for
your suspension seat post.
Small changes in saddle position can have a
substantial eect on performance and comfort.
To find your best saddle position, make only one
adjustment at a time.
WARNING
Figure 5. Interrupted Seat Tube
2. Front and Back Adjustment
The saddle can be adjusted forward or back to
help you get the optimal position on the bike.
Ask your dealer to set the saddle for your optimal
riding position and to show you how to make this
adjustment.
If you choose to make your own front and back
adjustment, make sure that the clamp mechanism
is clamping on the straight part of the saddle rails
and is not touching the curved part of the rails,
and that you are using the recommended torque
on the clamping fastener(s) (See manufacturer’s
instructions).
3. Saddle Angle Adjustment
Most people prefer a horizontal saddle; but some
riders like the saddle nose angled up or down just a
little. Your dealer can adjust saddle angle or teach
you how to do it.
If you choose to make your own saddle angle
adjustment and you have a single bolt saddle clamp
on your seat post, it is critical that you loosen the
clamp bolt suciently to allow any serrations on
the mechanism to disengage before changing the
saddle’s angle, and then that the serrations fully
re-engage before you tighten the clamp bolt to
the recommended torque (See manufacturer’s
instructions).
When making saddle angle adjustments with a
single bolt saddle clamp, always check to make
sure that the serrations on the mating surfaces
of the clamp are not worn. Worn serrations on
the clamp can allow the saddle to move, causing
you to lose control and fall.
Always tighten fasteners to the correct torque.
Bolts that are too tight can stretch and deform.
Bolts that are too loose can move and fatigue.
Either mistake can lead to a sudden failure of
the bolt, causing you to lose control and fall.
WARNING
After any saddle adjustment, be sure that
the saddle adjusting mechanism is properly
tightened before riding. A loose saddle clamp or
seat post binder can cause damage to the seat
post, or can cause you to lose control and fall.
A correctly tightened saddle adjusting
mechanism will allow no saddle movement in
any direction. Periodically check to make sure
that the saddle adjusting mechanism is properly
tightened.
(continued on next page...)
PART I
(continued from previous page...)
If, in spite of carefully adjusting the saddle height,
tilt and fore-and-aft position, your saddle is still
uncomfortable, you may need a dierent saddle
design. Saddles, like people, come in many dierent
shapes, sizes and resilience. Your dealer can help you
select a saddle which, when correctly adjusted for
your body and riding style, will be comfortable.
WARNING
Some people have claimed that extended riding
with a saddle which is incorrectly adjusted
or which does not support your pelvic area
correctly can cause short-term or long-term
injury to nerves and blood vessels, or even
impotence.
If your saddle causes you pain, numbness or
other discomfort, listen to your body and stop
riding until you see your dealer about saddle
adjustment or a dierent saddle.
3.C - Handlebar Height And Angle
Your bike is equipped either with a “threadless”
stem, which clamps on to the outside of the steerer
tube, or with a “quill” stem, which clamps inside the
steerer tube by way of an expanding binder bolt. If
you aren’t absolutely sure which type of stem your
bike has, ask your dealer.
If your bike has a “threadless” stem (fig 6), your
dealer may be able to change handlebar height by
moving height adjustment spacers from below the
stem to above the stem, or vice versa. Otherwise,
you’ll have to get a stem of dierent length or rise.
Consult your dealer. Do not attempt to do this
yourself, as it requires special knowledge.
If your bike has a “quill” stem (fig 7), you can ask
your dealer to adjust the handlebar height a bit by
adjusting stem height.
A quill stem has an etched or stamped mark on
its shaft which designates the stem’s “Minimum
Insertion” or “Maximum Extension”. This mark must
not be visible above the headset.
WARNING
A QUILL STEM’S “MINIMUM INSERTION MARK”
MUST NOT BE VISIBLE ABOVE THE TOP OF THE
HEADSET.
If the stem is extended beyond the minimum
insertion mark the stem may break or damage
the fork’s steerer tube, which could cause you to
lose control and fall.
1819
WARNING
On some bicycles, changing the stem or stem
height can aect the tension of the front brake
cable, locking the front brake or creating excess
cable slack which can make the front brake
inoperable. If the front brake pads move in
towards the wheel rim or out away from the
wheel rim when the stem or stem height is
changed, the brakes must be correctly adjusted
before you ride the bicycle.
Some bicycles are equipped with an adjustable angle
stem. If your bicycle has an adjustable angle stem,
ask your dealer to show you how to adjust if. Do
not attempt to make the adjustment yourself, as
changing stem angle may also require adjustments
to the bicycle’s controls.
WARNING
Always tighten fasteners to the correct torque.
Bolts that are too tight can stretch and deform.
Bolts that are too loose can move and fatigue.
Either mistake can lead to a sudden failure of
the bolt, causing you to lose control and fall.
3.D - Control Position Adjustments
The angle of the brake and shift control levers and
their position on the handlebars can be changed. Ask
your dealer to make the adjustments for you.
If you choose to make your own control lever
angle adjustment, be sure to re-tighten the
clamp fasteners to the recommended torque (See
manufacturer’s instructions).
3.E - Brake Reach
Many bikes have brake levers which can be adjusted
for reach. If you have small hands or find it dicult
to squeeze the brake levers, your dealer can either
adjust the reach or fit shorter reach brake levers.
WARNING
THE SHORTER THE BRAKE LEVER REACH, THE
MORE CRITICAL IT IS TO HAVE CORRECTLY
ADJUSTED BRAKES, SO THAT FULL BRAKING
POWER CAN BE APPLIED WITHIN AVAILABLE
BRAKE LEVER TRAVEL.
Brake lever travel insucient to apply full
braking power can result in loss of control,
which may result in serious injury or death.
WARNING
AN INSUFFICIENTLY TIGHTENED STEM
BINDER BOLT, HANDLEBAR BINDER BOLT OR
BAR END EXTENSION CLAMPING BOLT MAY
COMPROMISE STEERING ACTION, WHICH
COULD CAUSE YOU TO LOSE CONTROL AND
FALL.
Place the front wheel of the bicycle between
your legs and attempt to twist the handlebar/
stem assembly. If you can twist the stem in
relation to the front wheel, turn the handlebars
in relation to the stem, or turn the bar end
extensions in relation to the handlebar, the bolts
are insuciently tightened.
Your dealer can also change the angle of the
handlebar or bar end extensions.
PART I
SECTION 4. TECH
It’s important to your safety, performance and
enjoyment to understand how things work on your
bicycle.
We urge you to ask your dealer how to do the things
described in this section before you attempt them
yourself, and that you have your dealer check your
work before you ride the bike.
If you have even the slightest doubt as to whether
you understand something in this section of the
Manual, talk to your dealer.
See also:
PART I “Coaster Brakes”
PART II, SECTION B., INTENDED USE
PART II, SECTION D., INSPECT FOR SAFETY
PART II, SECTION E., MAINTENANCE
4.A - Wheels
Bicycle wheels are designed to be removable for
easier transportation and for repair of a tire puncture.
In most cases, the wheel axles are inserted into slots,
called “dropouts” in the fork and frame, but some
suspension mountain bikes use what is called a
“through axle” wheel mounting system.
If you have a mountain bike equipped with through
axle front or rear wheels, make sure that your dealer
has given you the manufacturer’s instructions, and
follow those when installing or removing a through
axle wheel. If you don’t know what a through axle
is, ask your dealer.
If you do not have a bicycle with a through-axle
mounting system, it will have wheel secured in one
of the following three ways:
• A hollow axle with a shaft (“skewer”) running
through it which has an adjustable tension nut
on one end and an over-center cam on the other
(cam action system, fig.8a & 8b).
• A hollow axle with a shaft (“skewer”) running
through it which has a nut on one end and a
fitting for a hex key, lock lever or other tightening
device on the other (through bolt, fig. 9)
• Hex nuts or hex key bolts which are threaded on
to or into the hub axle (bolt-on wheel, fig. 10)
WARNING
RIDING WITH AN IMPROPERLY SECURED
WHEEL CAN ALLOW THE WHEEL TO WOBBLE
OR FALL OFF THE BICYCLE, OR SUDDENLY
STOP THE WHEEL, WHICH CAN CAUSE
SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH. THEREFORE, IT IS
ESSENTIAL THAT YOU:
1. Ask your dealer to help you make sure you
know how to install and remove your wheels
safely.
2. Understand and apply the correct technique
for clamping your wheel in place.
3. Each time, before you ride the bike, check
that the wheel is securely clamped. The
clamping action of a correctly secured wheel
must emboss the surfaces of the dropouts.
Some bicycles are equipped with a quick release lever
and a disc brake. If the bicycle is ridden with the lever
incorrectly adjusted or open, and the lever contacts the
disc or wheel (next gure), the front wheel could stop
suddenly, causing the rider to fall. Always make sure
your wheels are correctly attached, and the attachment
mechanisms closed and locked, before riding the bicycle.
Brake Disc
Quick Release
Lever
2021
Your bicycle may be equipped with a dierent securing method for the front wheel than for the rear wheel.
Discuss the wheel securing method for your bicycle with your dealer.
It is very important that you understand the type of wheel securing method on your bicycle, that you know
how to secure the wheels correctly, and that you know how to apply the correct clamping force that safely
secures the wheel.
Ask your dealer to instruct you in correct wheel removal and installation, and ask for the manufacturer’s
instructions.
PART I
1. Front Wheel Secondary Retention
Devices
Most bicycles have front forks which utilize a
secondary wheel retention device to reduce the risk
of the wheel disengaging from the fork if the wheel
is incorrectly secured. Secondary retention devices
are not a substitute for correctly securing your front
wheel.
Secondary retention devices fall into two basic
categories:
a. The clip-on type is a part which the manufacturer
adds to the front wheel hub or front fork.
b. The integral type is molded, cast or machined
into the outer faces of the front fork dropouts.
Ask your dealer to explain the particular secondary
retention device on your bike.
WARNING
DO NOT REMOVE OR DISABLE THE SECONDARY
RETENTION DEVICE.
As its name implies, it serves as a back-up for a
critical adjustment. If the wheel is not secured
correctly, the secondary retention device can
reduce the risk of the wheel disengaging from
the fork. Removing or disabling the secondary
retention device may also void the warranty.
Secondary retention devices are not a substitute
for correctly securing your wheel. Failure to
properly secure the wheel can cause the wheel to
wobble or disengage, which could cause you to
loose control and fall, resulting in serious injury
or death.
2. Wheels with cam action systems
There are currently two types of over-center cam
wheel retention mechanisms: the traditional overcenter cam (fig. 8a) and the cam-and-cup system
(fig. 8b). Both use an over-center cam action to
clamp the bike’s wheel in place. Your bicycle may
have a cam-and-cup front wheel retention system
and a traditional rear wheel cam action system.
a. Adjusting the traditional cam action mechanism
(fig. 8a)
The wheel hub is clamped in place by the force of
the over-center cam pushing against one dropout
and pulling the tension adjusting nut, by way of
the skewer, against the other dropout. The amount
of clamping force is controlled by the tension
adjusting nut. Turning the tension adjusting nut
clockwise while keeping the cam lever from rotating
increases clamping force; turning it counterclockwise
while keeping the cam lever from rotating reduces
clamping force. Less than half a turn of the tension
adjusting nut can make the dierence between safe
clamping force and unsafe clamping force.
WARNING
THE FULL FORCE OF THE CAM ACTION IS
NEEDED TO CLAMP THE WHEEL SECURELY.
Holding the nut with one hand and turning the
lever like a wing nut with the other hand until
everything is as tight as you can get it will not
clamp a cam action wheel safely in the dropouts.
See also WARNING on page 20.
2223
b. Adjusting the cam-and-cup mechanism (fig. 8B)
The cam-and-cup system on your front wheel will
have been correctly adjusted for your bicycle by your
dealer. Ask your dealer to check the adjustment every
six months. Do not use a cam-and-cup front wheel
on any bicycle other than the one for which your
dealer adjusted it.
3. Removing And Installing Wheels
WARNING
IF YOUR BIKE IS EQUIPPED WITH A HUB BRAKE
SUCH AS A REAR COASTER BRAKE, FRONT OR
REAR DRUM, BAND OR ROLLER BRAKE; OR
IF IT HAS AN INTERNAL GEAR REAR HUB, DO
NOT ATTEMPT TO REMOVE THE WHEEL.
The removal and re-installation of most hub
brakes and internal gear hubs requires special
knowledge. Incorrect removal or assembly can
result in brake or gear failure, which can cause
you to lose control and fall.
CAUTION
If your bike has a disc brake, exercise care in
touching the rotor or caliper. Disc rotors have
sharp edges, and both rotor and caliper can get
very hot during use.
(2) If your bike has cam action front wheel retention,
move the cam lever from the locked or CLOSED
position to the OPEN position (figs. 8a & b). If
your bike has through bolt or bolt-on front wheel
retention, loosen the fastener(s) a few turns
counter-clockwise using an appropriate wrench,
lock key or the integral lever.
(3) If your front fork has a clip-on type secondary
retention device, disengage it . If your front fork
has an integral secondary retention device, and a
traditional cam action system (fig. 8a) loosen the
tension adjusting nut enough to allow removing
the wheel from the dropouts. If your front wheel
uses a cam-and-cup system, (fig. 8b) squeeze
the cup and cam lever together while removing
the wheel. No rotation of any part is necessary
with the cam-and-cup system.
You may need to tap the top of the wheel with
the palm of your hand to release the wheel from
the front fork.
b. Installing a disk brake or rim brake front wheel
CAUTION
If your bike is equipped with a front disk brake,
be careful not to damage the disk, caliper or
brake pads when re-inserting the disk into the
caliper. Never activate a disk brake’s control lever
unless the disk is correctly inserted in the caliper.
See also Section 4.C.
a. Removing a disk brake or rim brake front wheel
(1) If your bike has rim brakes, disengage the
brake’s quick-release mechanism to increase the
clearance between the tire and the brake pads
(See Section 4.C fig. 11 through 15).
(1) If your bike has cam action front wheel retention,
move the cam lever so that it curves away from
the wheel (fig. 8b). This is the OPEN position. If
your bike has through bolt or bolt-on front wheel
retention, go to the next step.
(continued on next page...)
PART I
(continued from previous page...)
(2) With the steering fork facing forward, insert the
wheel between the fork blades so that the axle
seats firmly at the top of the fork dropouts. The
cam lever, if there is one, should be on rider’s left
side of the bicycle (fig. 8a & b). If your bike has a
clip-on type secondary retention device, engage
it.
(3) If you have a traditional cam action mechanism:
holding the cam lever in the ADJUST position
with your right hand, tighten the tension
adjusting nut with your left hand until it is finger
tight against the fork dropout (fig. 8a). If you
have a cam-and-cup system: the nut and cup
(fig. 8b) will have snapped into the recessed area
of the fork dropouts and no adjustment should
be required.
(4) While pushing the wheel firmly to the top of the
slots in the fork dropouts, and at the same time
centering the wheel rim in the fork:
(a) With a cam action system, move the cam lever
upwards and swing it into the CLOSED position
(fig. 8a & b). The lever should now be parallel
to the fork blade and curved toward the wheel.
To apply enough clamping force, you should
have to wrap your fingers around the fork blade
for leverage, and the lever should leave a clear
imprint in the palm of your hand.
(b) With a through-bolt or bolt-on system, tighten
the fasteners to the torque specifications
in Appendix D or the hub manufacturer’s
instructions.
NOTE:
If, on a traditional cam action system, the lever
cannot be pushed all the way to a position
parallel to the fork blade, return the lever to the
OPEN position. Then turn the tension adjusting
nut counterclockwise one-quarter turn and try
tightening the lever again.
(6) With a through-bolt or bolt-on system, tighten
the fasteners to the torque specifications
in “PART II Tightening Torques” or the hub
manufacturer’s instructions.
WARNING
SECURELY CLAMPING THE WHEEL WITH
A CAM ACTION RETENTION DEVICE TAKES
CONSIDERABLE FORCE.
If you can fully close the cam lever without
wrapping your fingers around the fork blade for
leverage, the lever does not leave a clear imprint
in the palm of your hand, and the serrations on
the wheel fastener do not emboss the surfaces
of the dropouts, the tension is insucient.
Open the lever; turn the tension adjusting nut
clockwise a quarter turn; then try again.
See also WARNING on page 20.
(6) If you disengaged the brake quick-release
mechanism in 3. a. (1) above, re-engage it to
restore correct brake pad-to-rim clearance.
(7) Spin the wheel to make sure that it is centered
in the frame and clears the brake pads; then
squeeze the brake lever and make sure that the
brakes are operating correctly.
c. Removing a disk brake or rim brake rear
wheel
(1) If you have a multi-speed bike with a derailleur
gear system: shift the rear derailleur to high gear
(the smallest, outermost rear sprocket).
If you have an internal gear rear hub, consult your
dealer or the hub manufacturer’s instructions
before attempting to remove the rear wheel.
If you have a single-speed bike with rim or disk
brake, go to step (4) below.
(2) If your bike has rim brakes, disengage the
brake’s quick-release mechanism to increase the
clearance between the wheel rim and the brake
pads (see Section 4.C, figs. 11 through 15).
2425
(3) On a derailleur gear system, pull the derailleur
body back with your right hand.
(4) With a cam action mechanism, move the quick-
release lever to the OPEN position (fig. 8b). With
a through bolt or bolt on mechanism, loosen the
fastener(s) with an appropriate wrench, lock lever
or integral lever; then push the wheel forward far
enough to be able to remove the chain from the
rear sprocket.
(5) Lift the rear wheel o the ground a few inches
and remove it from the rear dropouts.
d. Installing a disk brake or rim brake rear
wheel
CAUTION
If your bike is equipped with a rear disk brake,
be careful not to damage the disk, caliper or
brake pads when re-inserting the disk into the
caliper. Never activate a disk brake’s control lever
unless the disk is correctly inserted in the caliper.
(1) With a cam action system, move the cam lever
to the OPEN position (see fig. 8 a & b). The lever
should be on the side of the wheel opposite the
derailleur and freewheel sprockets.
(2) On a derailleur bike, make sure that the rear
derailleur is still in its outermost, high gear,
position; then pull the derailleur body back with
your right hand. Put the chain on top of the
smallest freewheel sprocket.
(3) On single-speed, remove the chain from the
front sprocket, so that you have plenty of slack
in the chain. Put the chain on the rear wheel
sprocket.
(4) Then, insert the wheel into the frame dropouts
and pull it all the way in to the dropouts.
(5) On a single speed or an internal gear hub, replace
the chain on the chainring; pull the wheel back
in the dropouts so that it is straight in the frame
and the chain has about 1/4 inches of up-anddown play.
(6) With a cam action system, move the cam lever
upwards and swing it into the CLOSED position
(fig. 8 a & b). The lever should now be parallel
to the seat stay or chain stay and curved toward
the wheel. To apply enough clamping force, you
should have to wrap your fingers around the
seat stay or chainstay for leverage, and the lever
should leave a clear imprint in the palm of your
hand.
(7) With a through-bolt or bolt-on system, tighten
the fasteners to the torque specifications
in PART II “Tightening Torques” or the hub
manufacturer’s instructions.
NOTE:
If, on a traditional cam action system, the lever
cannot be pushed all the way to a position
parallel to the seat stay or chain stay, return the
lever to the OPEN position. Then turn the tension
adjusting nut counterclockwise one-quarter turn
and try tightening the lever again.
WARNING
SECURELY CLAMPING THE WHEEL WITH
A CAM ACTION RETENTION DEVICE TAKES
CONSIDERABLE FORCE.
If you can fully close the cam lever without
wrapping your fingers around the seat stay or
chain stay for leverage, the lever does not leave
a clear imprint in the palm of your hand, and the
serrations on the wheel fastener do not emboss
the surfaces of the dropouts, the tension is
insucient. Open the lever; turn the tension
adjusting nut clockwise a quarter turn; then try
again.
See also WARNING on page 20.
(continued on next page...)
PART I
(continued from previous page...)
(
8) If you disengaged the brake quick-release
mechanism in 3. c. (2) above, re-engage it to
restore correct brake pad-to-rim clearance.
(9) Spin the wheel to make sure that it is centered
in the frame and clears the brake pads; then
squeeze the brake lever and make sure that the
brakes are operating correctly.
Adjusting The Seat Post Cam Action
Mechanism
The action of the cam squeezes the seat collar
around the seat post to hold the seat post securely
in place. The amount of clamping force is controlled
by the tension adjusting nut. Turning the tension
adjusting nut clockwise while keeping the cam lever
from rotating increases clamping force; turning it
counterclockwise while keeping the cam lever from
rotating reduces clamping force. Less than half
a turn of the tension adjusting nut can make the
dierence between safe and unsafe clamping force.
4.B. SEAT POST CAM
ACTION CLAMP
Some bikes are equipped with a cam action seat
post binder. The seat post cam action binder works
exactly like the traditional wheel cam action fastener
(Section 4.A.2) While a cam action binder looks like
a long bolt with a lever on one end and a nut on the
other, the binder uses an over-center cam action to
rmly clamp the seat post (see g. 8a).
WARNING
Riding with an improperly tightened seat post
can allow the saddle to turn or move and cause
you to lose control and fall. Therefore:
1. Ask your dealer to help you make sure you
know how to correctly clamp your seat post.
2. Understand and apply the correct technique
for clamping your seat post.
3. Before you ride the bike, first check that the
seat post is securely clamped.
WARNING
THE FULL FORCE OF THE CAM ACTION IS
NEEDED TO CLAMP THE SEAT POST SECURELY.
Holding the nut with one hand and turning the
lever like a wing nut with the other hand until
everything is as tight as you can get it will not
clamp the seat post safely.
WARNING
If you can fully close the cam lever without
wrapping your fingers around the seat post or a
frame tube for leverage, and the lever does not
leave a clear imprint in the palm of your hand,
the tension is insucient. Open the lever; turn
the tension adjusting nut clockwise a quarter
turn; then try again.
2627
4.C - BRAKES
There are three general types of bicycle brakes: rim
brakes, which operate by squeezing the wheel rim
between two brake pads; disc brakes, which operate
by squeezing a hub-mounted disc between two
brake pads; and internal hub brakes. All three can
be operated by way of a handlebar mounted lever.
On some models of bicycle, the internal hub brake
is operated by pedaling backwards. This is called a
Coaster Brake and is described in “Coaster Brakes” in
this section.
WARNING
1. Riding with improperly adjusted brakes or worn
brake pads, or wheel on which the rim wear mark is
visible is dangerous and can result in serious injury
or death.
2. Applying brakes too hard or too suddenly can lock
up a wheel, which could cause you to lose control
and fall. Sudden or excessive application of the
front brake may pitch the rider over the handlebars,
which may result in serious injury or death.
3. Some bicycle brakes, such as disc brakes (fig.
11) and linear-pull brakes (fig.12), Are extremely
powerful. Take extra care in becoming familiar with
these brakes and exercise particular care when
using them.
4. Some bicycle brakes are equipped with a brake
force modulator, a small, cylindrical device through
which the brake control cable runs and which is
designed to provide a more progressive application
of braking force. A modulator makes the initial
brake lever force more gentle, progressively
increasing force until full force is achieved. If your
bike is equipped with a brake force modulator, take
extra care in becoming familiar with its performance
characteristics.
5. Disc brakes can get extremely hot with extended
use. Be careful not to touch a disc brake until it has
had plenty of time to cool.
6. See the brake manufacturer’s instructions for
installation, operation and care of your brakes. If
you do not have the manufacturer’s instructions,
see your dealer or contact the brake manufacturer.
7. If replacing worn or damaged parts, use only
manufacturer approved genuine replacement parts
1. Brake Controls And Features
It’s very important to your safety that you learn and
remember which brake lever controls which brake on
your bike.
Traditionally, in the U.S. the right brake lever controls
the rear brake and the left brake lever controls the
front brake; but, to check how your bike’s brakes are
set up, squeeze one brake lever and look to see which
brake, front or rear, engages. Now do the same with
the other brake lever.
Make sure that your hands can reach and squeeze
the brake levers comfortably. If your hands are too
small to operate the levers comfortably, consult your
dealer before riding the bike. The lever reach may be
adjustable; or you may need a dierent brake lever
design.
Most rim brakes have some form of quick-release
mechanism to allow the brake pads to clear the
tire when a wheel is removed or reinstalled. When
the brake quick release is in the open position, the
brakes are inoperative. Ask your dealer to make sure
that you understand the way the brake quick release
works on your bike (see figs. 12, 13. 14 & 15) and check
each time to make sure both brakes work correctly
before you get on the bike.
2. How Brakes Work
The braking action of a bicycle is a function of the
friction between the brake surfaces — usually the
brake pads and the wheel rim. To make sure that you
have maximum friction available, keep your wheel
rims and brake pads clean and free of dirt, lubricants,
waxes or polishes.
(continued on next page...)
PART I
(continued from previous page...)
Brakes are designed to control your speed, not just
to stop the bike. Maximum braking force for each
wheel occurs at the point just before the wheel
“locks up” (stops rotating) and starts to skid. Once
the tire skids, you actually lose most of your stopping
force and all directional control. You need to practice
slowing and stopping smoothly without locking up
a wheel. The technique is called progressive brake
modulation. Instead of jerking the brake lever to the
position where you think you’ll generate appropriate
braking force, squeeze the lever, progressively
increasing the braking force. If you feel the wheel
begin to lock up, release pressure just a little to keep
the wheel rotating just short of lockup.
It’s important to develop a feel for the amount
of brake lever pressure required for each wheel at
dierent speeds and on dierent surfaces. To better
understand this, experiment a little by walking your
bike and applying dierent amounts of pressure to
each brake lever, until the wheel locks.
When you apply one or both brakes, the bike begins
to slow, but your body wants to continue at the
speed at which it was going. This causes a transfer
of weight to the front wheel (or, under heavy braking,
around the front wheel hub, which could send you
flying over the handlebars).
A wheel with more weight on it will accept greater
brake pressure before lockup; a wheel with less
weight will lock up with less brake pressure. So,
as you apply brakes and your weight is transferred
forward, you need to shift your body toward the
rear of the bike, to transfer weight back on to the
rear wheel; and at the same time, you need to both
decrease rear braking and increase front braking
force. This is even more important on descents,
because descents shift weight forward.
Two keys to eective speed control and safe stopping
are controlling wheel lockup and weight transfer.
This weight transfer is even more pronounced if your
bike has a front suspension fork. Front suspension
“dips” under braking, increasing the weight transfer
(see also SECTION 4.F). Practice braking and weight
transfer techniques where there is no trac or other
hazards and distractions.
Everything changes when you ride on loose surfaces
or in wet weather. Tire adhesion is reduced, so the
wheels have less cornering and braking traction and
can lock up with less brake force. Moisture or dirt on
the brake pads reduces their ability to grip. The way
to maintain control on loose or wet surfaces is to go
more slowly.
More info:
ROAD BIKES: DISC BRAKES
Now, go to PART II of this manual
and read “Understanding Disc Brakes
on Road Bikes”
2829
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