Cannondale Bicycle User Manual [nl]

BICYCLE
OWNER’S MANUAL
WARNING
THIS MANUAL CONTAINS IMPORTANT SAFETY, PERFORMANCE AND SERVICE INFORMATION.
Read it before you take the first ride on your new bicycle, and keep it for reference.
CONGRATULATIONS ON YOUR PURCHASE OF A CANNONDALE BICYCLE.
our products:
1. We think riding a bike is fun! Which means all of us at Cannondale are lucky enough to do what we enjoy. You’ll see that dedication to our craft in every bicycle we make.
2. Our dedication to craft includes dreaming up new ways to pioneer improvements for the industry – things like System Integration and the BB30 Standard. Later, other manufacturers often “borrow” our ideas, but that’s okay. After all, more people on bikes is good for everyone.
3. Because bike riding is so much fun, we encourage you to partake whenever the whim strikes you: Going to the grocery store, going to work, going to school, or wherever you go. Bikes are serious transportation, in addition to being outrageously good fun.
4. To keep your bike in top condition and to minimize risk, please read this manual before your first ride and refer to this manual whenever you have questions about its operation.
5. We encourage you to visit your local Independent Bike Dealer. Many of us had our first jobs in bike shops, and your local Cannondale dealer is an important source of information for you.
USE OF THIS MANUAL
Cannondale Bicycle Owner’s Manual
This manual contains important information aecting your safety and the proper use of bicycles. It is a very important manual for every bike we make. It is organized into two parts:
PART I
Is a generic guide to the proper function and use of bicycles. This generic information is used by many bike companies. Most aspects of bicycles are common or “generic.” PART I of this manual is the 10th edition of the generic manual.
PART II
Contains information specific to Cannondale bicycles and topics we feel you need to know and understand about our bikes.
A manual alone cannot teach you how to ride, and a manual the size of an encyclopedia could not cover every combination of bicycle, rider and conditions. Thus, as a reasonable person would expect, the Cannondale manuals and supplements focus on the bicycle, not teaching you to ride.
This manual is not intended as a comprehensive use, service, repair or maintenance manual. It contains no assembly instructions. This manual is not a service manual for any parts of your bike. Please see your dealer for all service, repairs or maintenance. Your dealer may also be able to refer you to classes or books on bicycle use, and maintenance.
Owner’s Manual Supplements
Cannondale Owner’s Manual Supplements are “supplements” to this manual providing important additional model specific safety, maintenance, and technical information. Cannondale Owner’s Manual Supplements are not replacements for this or any other manual for your bike.
You can download Adobe Acrobat PDF versions of any Cannondale Owner’s Manual or Owner’s Manual Supplements or Tech Notes from our website. Go to: http://www.cannondale.com.
Other Manuals & Instructions
Many of the components on your bike were not made by Cannondale. When available from the manufacturer, Cannondale packages these manuals and/or instructions with our bikes for delivery to you. We strongly recommend that you read and follow all the manufacturer’s specific instructions included with your bike.
Authorized Cannondale Retailers
Your local Authorized Cannondale Retailer is your primary contact for service and adjustment of your bicycle, instruction in its use, and any warranty questions.
Your new bike is to be delivered by a Authorized Cannondale Retailer to you in a completely assembled and properly adjusted condition, complete with all required safety equipment, Owner’s Manuals, any Cannondale Owner’s Manual Supplements, and the available manufacturer’s instructions (shipped by Cannondale) for parts and components for your bike.
To find the Cannondale retailer closest to you, call 1-800-THE-BIKE-USA, or use our website dealer locator at www.cannondale.com.
Use Only Genuine Replacement Parts
It is important to your safety and the performance of your Cannondale bicycle that you use only genuine Cannondale replacement parts in Headshok and Lefty forks, Cannondale swingarms and rear suspension assemblies, derailleur hangers and other frame hardware.
These parts are described in Owners Manual Supplements. This note does not apply to widely used generic bicycle components such as derailleurs.
131264 (04/15)
CONTENTS
PART I
GENERAL WARNING .................................... 4
A SPECIAL NOTE FOR PARENTS ...................4
SECTION 1. FIRST ..................................... 5-8
1.A Bike Fit ................................................................5
1.B Safety First ..........................................................5
1.C Mechanical Safety Check .....................................6
1.D First Ride ............................................................ 8
SECTION 2. SAFETY .................................8-14
2.A The Basics...........................................................9
2.B Riding Safety .................................................... 10
2.C O-Road Safety .................................................11
2.D Wet Weather Riding ..........................................11
2.E Night Riding ..................................................... 12
2.F Extreme, Stunt, or Competition Riding ............ 13
2.G Changing Components Adding Accessories ...... 14
SECTION 3. FIT ......................................15-19
3.A Stand Over Height ............................................ 15
3.B Saddle Position ................................................. 16
3.C. Handlebar Height and Angle ............................. 18
3.D Control Position Adjustments .......................... 19
3.E Brake Reach ...................................................... 19
SECTION 4. TECH................................. 20 - 37
4.A Wheels ............................................................ 20
4.B Seat Post Cam Action Clamp ............................26
4.C Brakes ...............................................................27
Coaster Brakes ................................................. 30
4.D Shifting Gears ................................................... 31
4.E Pedals ...............................................................33
4.F Bicycle Suspension ...........................................34
4.G Tires and Tubes .................................................35
SECTION 5. SERVICE ..............................38-41
5.A Service Intervals ...............................................39
5.B If Your Bicycle Sustains an Impact ....................41
PART II
SECTION A. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFO ...42-51
A Wide Range of Injuries Are Possible ....................42
Bicycles Cannot Protect You ....................................42
Bicycling Inherent Risk ............................................42
Warning Label .........................................................43
Riding in Trac, Commuting ...................................43
Riding at Night, Dusk, Dawn .................................. 44
Refinishing ............................................................. 45
Modifications ......................................................... 45
Child Carriers ........................................................... 46
Bicycles Have Sharp Surfaces ................................. 46
Bar Ends ................................................................. 46
Installing Accessories ............................................. 46
Aerodynamic Handlebars ........................................47
About Shimmy ....................................................... 48
Toe Clip Overlap ...................................................... 48
Tire Size .................................................................. 49
Tire & Rim Pressure Compatibility ........................ 49
How to Check Wheel Rim Wear .............................. 50
Understanding Disc Brakes on Road Bikes ............. 50
Brake Power Modulators ......................................... 51
Aftermarket Brake Systems .................................... 51
Aftermarket Power Systems ................................... 51
SECTION B. INTENDED USE ................... 52-60
This section also includes weight limit information.
CONDITION 1 High-Performance Road ....................53
CONDITION 2 General Purpose Riding ....................55
CONDITION 3 Cross-Country, Mararthon,
Hardtails ..................................................................57
CONDITION 4 All-Mountain, Overmountain ........... 58
CONDITION 5 Gravity, Freeride,
Downhill, Dirt Jump..................................................59
2
SECTION C. MOUNTAIN BIKE RIDING ......61-64
O-Road Riding ...................................................... 61
Bike Types ................................................................61
Inspection and Maintenance Routines .................... 61
Suspension ..............................................................62
Jumping ...................................................................62
Stay In Control .........................................................62
Downhill and Lift-Serviced Riding ...........................62
Shifting Gears While Pedaling .................................63
Freeride and Downhill Riding ................................. 64
SECTION D. INSPECT FOR SAFETY .......... 66-76
1. Understanding Metals ..........................................67
2. Understanding Composites (Carbon Fiber) ..........72
3. Understanding Components ................................74
Bicycle Lifespan .......................................................76
Useful Life of Lightweight Frames ..........................76
SECTION E. MAINTENANCE .................... 77-82
30 Day Service ......................................................... 77
Cleaning ................................................................... 77
Preventing Corrosion ............................................... 77
Lubrication ..............................................................78
Tightening Torques ..................................................78
Repair/Work Stands ................................................79
Protect From Extreme Temperatures ......................79
RIding Through Water .............................................79
Applying Frame Protection ..................................... 80
Water Bottles ......................................................... 82
SECTION F. LIMITED WARRANTY .............. 83
Cannondale Limited Warranty.................................83
Product Registration .............................................. 84
Serial Number ......................................................... 84
Authorized Distributors (01/14) ............................. 85
Australian Consumer Law
(Limited Warranty/Australia) ..................................87
APPENDIX
A. Cannondale BB30
Standard Bicycle Frames ................................... 90
B. Maximum Fork Length ....................................... 91
C. Care And Maintenance Of
Carbon Fiber Seat Posts .....................................92
D. Care And Maintenance Of
Carbon Fiber Forks And Stems ...........................96
E. Bicycle Racks ....................................................100
F. Using Bicycle Trainers .......................................102
Trainers: Risks To Children
Check for related info
in all three areas:
PART 1, PART II, and the APPENDIX.
SECTION G. PRE-RIDE CHECKLIST .............. 89
3
PART I
GENERAL WARNING
Like any sport, bicycling involves risk of injury and damage. By choosing to ride a bicycle, you assume the responsibility for that risk, so you need to know — and to practice — the rules of safe and responsible riding and of proper use and maintenance. Proper use and maintenance of your bicycle reduces risk of injury.
This Manual contains many “Warnings” and “Cautions” concerning the consequences of failure to maintain or inspect your bicycle and of failure to follow safe cycling practices.
The combination of the safety alert symbol the word WARNING indicates a potentially hazardous situation which, if not avoided, could result in serious injury or death.
The combination of the safety alert symbol and the word CAUTION indicates a potentially hazardous situation which, if not avoided, may result in minor or moderate injury, or is an alert against unsafe practices.
The word CAUTION used without the safety alert symbol indicates a situation which, if not avoided, could result in serious damage to the bicycle or the voiding of your warranty.
Many of the Warnings and Cautions say “you may lose control and fall”. Because any fall can result in serious injury or even death, we do not always repeat the warning of possible injury or death.
Because it is impossible to anticipate every situation or condition which can occur while riding, this Manual makes no representation about the safe use of the bicycle under all conditions. There are risks associated with the use of any bicycle which cannot be predicted or avoided, and which are the sole responsibility of the rider.
and
A SPECIAL NOTE FOR PARENTS
WARNING
This manual does not cover Juvenile or BMX bicycles.
As a parent or guardian, you are responsible for the activities and safety of your minor child, and that includes making sure that the bicycle is properly fitted to the child; that it is in good repair and safe operating condition; that you and your child have learned and understand the safe operation of the bicycle; and that you and your child have learned, understand and obey not only the applicable local motor vehicle, bicycle and trac laws, but also the common sense rules of safe and responsible bicycling. As a parent, you should read this manual, as well as review its warnings and the bicycle’s functions and operating procedures with your child, before letting your child ride the bicycle.
WARNING
MAKE SURE THAT YOUR CHILD ALWAYS WEARS AN APPROVED BICYCLE HELMET WHEN RIDING; BUT ALSO MAKE SURE THAT YOUR CHILD UNDERSTANDS THAT A BICYCLE HELMET IS FOR BICYCLING ONLY, AND MUST BE REMOVED WHEN NOT RIDING.
A helmet must not be worn while playing, in play areas, on playground equipment, while climbing trees, or at any time while not riding a bicycle. Failure to follow this warning could result in serious injury or death.
4 5
SECTION 1. FIRST
NOTE:
We strongly urge you to read this Manual in its entirety before your first ride. At the very least, read and make sure that you understand each point in this section, and refer to the cited sections on any issue which you don’t completely understand. Please note that not all bicycles have all of the features described in this manual. Ask your dealer to point out the features of your bicycle.
1.A - BIKE FIT
1. Is your bike the right size? To check, see SECTION
3.A. If your bicycle is too large or too small for you, You may lose control and fall. If your new bike is not the right size, ask your dealer to exchange it before you ride it.
2. Is the saddle at the right height? To check, see SECTION 3.B. If you adjust your saddle height, follow the Minimum Insertion instructions in SECTION 3.B.
3. Are saddle and seat post securely clamped? A correctly tightened saddle will allow no saddle movement in any direction. See SECTION 3.B.
4. Are the stem and handlebars at the right height for you? If not, see SECTION 3.C.
5. Can you comfortably operate the brakes? If not, you may be able to adjust their angle and reach. See SECTION 3.D and 3.E.
6. Do you fully understand how to operate your new bicycle? If not, before your first ride, have your dealer explain any functions or features which you do not understand.
1.B - SAFETY FIRST
1. Always wear an approved helmet when riding your bike, and follow the helmet manufacturer’s instructions for fit, use and care.
2. Do you have all the other required and recommended safety equipment? See SECTION 2. It’s your responsibility to familiarize yourself with the laws of the areas where you ride, and to comply with all applicable laws.
3. Do you know how to correctly operate your wheel quick releases? Check SECTION 4.A.1 to make sure. Riding with an improperly adjusted wheel quick release can cause the wheel to wobble or disengage from the bicycle, and cause serious injury or death.
4. If your bike has toeclips and straps or clipless (“step-in”) pedals, make sure you know how they work (see SECTION 4.E). These pedals require special techniques and skills. Follow the pedal manufacturer’s instructions for use, adjustment and care.
5. Do you have “toe overlap”? On smaller framed bicycles your toe or toeclip may be able to contact the front wheel when a pedal is all the way forward and the wheel is turned. Read SECTION 4.E. If you have toeclip overlap.
6. Does your bike have suspension? If so, check SECTION 4.F. Suspension can change the way a bicycle performs. Follow the suspension manufacturer’s instructions for use, adjustment and care.
PART I
1.C - MECHANICAL SAFETY CHECK
Routinely check the condition of your bicycle before every ride.
Nuts, Bolts Screws & Other Fasteners
Because manufacturers use a wide variety of fastener sizes and shapes made in a variety of materials, often diering by model and component, the correct tightening force or torque cannot be generalized.
To make sure that the many fasteners on your bicycle are correctly tightened. See page 78.
Always refer to the torque specifications in the instructions provided by the manufacturer of a component in question.
Correctly tightening a fastener requires a calibrated torque wrench. A professional bicycle mechanic with a torque wrench should torque the fasteners on you bicycle. If you choose to work on your own bicycle, you must use a torque wrench and the correct tightening torque specifications from the bicycle or component manufacturer or from your dealer. If you need to make an adjustment at home or in the field, we urge you to exercise care, and to have the fasteners you worked on checked by your dealer as soon as possible.
Note that there are some components which require special tools and knowledge. In Sections 3 and 4, we discuss the items which you may be able to adjust yourself. All other adjustments and repairs should be done by a qualified bike mechanic.
WARNING
Make sure nothing is loose. Lift the front wheel o the ground by two or three inches, then let it bounce on the ground. Anything sound, feel or look loose? Do a visual and tactile inspection of the whole bike. Any loose parts or accessories? If so, secure them. If you’re not sure, ask someone with experience to check.
Tires & Wheels
Make sure tires are correctly inflated (see SECTION
4.G.1). Check by putting one hand on the saddle, one on the intersection of the handlebars and stem, then bouncing your weight on the bike while looking at tire deflection. Compare what you see with how it looks when you know the tires are correctly inflated; and adjust if necessary.
Tires in good shape? Spin each wheel slowly and look for cuts in the tread and sidewall. Replace damaged tires before riding the bike.
Wheels true? Spin each wheel and check for brake clearance and side-to-side wobble. If a wheel wobbles side-to-side even slightly, or rubs against or hits the brake pads, take the bike to a qualified bike shop to have the wheel trued.
CAUTION
Wheels must be true for the brakes to work eectively. Wheel trueing is a skill which requires special tools and experience. Do not attempt to true a wheel unless you have the knowledge, experience and tools needed to do the job correctly.
CORRECT TIGHTENING FORCE ON FASTENERS –NUTS, BOLTS, SCREWS– ON YOUR BICYCLE IS IMPORTANT.
Too little force, and the fastener may not hold securely. Too much force, and the fastener can strip threads, stretch, deform or break. Either way, incorrect tightening force can result in component failure, which can cause you to loose control and fall.
6 7
Wheel rims clean and undamaged? Make sure the rims are clean and undamaged at the tire bead and, if you have rim brakes, along the braking surface. Check to make sure that any rim wear indicator marking is not visible at any point on the wheel rim.
Seat post
If your seat post has an over-center cam action fastener for easy height adjustment, check that it is properly adjusted and in the locked position. See Section 4.B.
WARNING
BICYCLE WHEEL RIMS ARE SUBJECT TO WEAR.
Ask your dealer about wheel rim wear. Some wheel rims have a rim wear indicator which becomes visible as the rim’s braking surface wears. A visible rim wear indicator on the side of the wheel rim is an indication that the wheel rim has reached its maximum usable life. Riding a wheel that is at the end of its usable life can result in wheel failure, which can cause you to loose control and fall.
Brakes
Check the brakes for proper operation (see SECTION
4.C). Squeeze the brake levers. Are the brake quick-releases closed? All control cables seated and securely engaged? Do the brake pads contact the wheel rim squarely and make full contact with the rim? Do the brake pads touch the wheel rim within an inch of brake lever movement? Can you apply full braking force at the levers without having them touch the handlebar? If not, your brakes need adjustment. Do not ride the bike until the brakes are properly adjusted by a professional bicycle mechanic.
Wheel Retention System
Make sure the front and rear wheels are correctly secured. See SECTION 4.A
Handlebar and Saddle Alignment
Make sure the saddle and handlebar stem are parallel to the bike’s center line and clamped tight enough so that you can’t twist them out of alignment. See SECTION 3.B and 3.C.
Handlebar Ends
Make sure the handlebar grips are secure and in good condition. If not, have your dealer replace them. Make sure the handlebar ends and extensions are plugged. If not, plug them before you ride. If the handlebars have bar end extensions, make sure they are clamped tight enough so you can’t twist them.
WARNING
LOOSE OR DAMAGED HANDLEBAR GRIPS OR EXTENSIONS CAN CAUSE YOU TO LOSE CONTROL AND FALL. UNPLUGGED HANDLEBARS OR EXTENSIONS CAN CUT YOU AND CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY IN AN OTHERWISE MINOR ACCIDENT.
VERY IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTE:
Please also read and become thoroughly familiar with the important information on the lifespan of your bicycle and its components in PART II, SECTION D. INSPECT FOR SAFETY.
PART I
1.D - FIRST RIDE
When you buckle on your helmet and go for your first familiarization ride on your new bicycle, be sure to pick a controlled environment, away from cars, other cyclists, obstacles or other hazards. Ride to become familiar with the controls, features and performance of your new bike.
Familiarize yourself with the braking action of the bike (see SECTION 4.C). Test the brakes at slow speed, putting your weight toward the rear and gently applying the brakes, rear brake first. Sudden or excessive application of the front brake could pitch you over the handlebars. Applying brakes too hard can lock up a wheel, which could cause you to lose control and fall. Skidding is an example of what can happen when a wheel locks up.
If your bicycle has toeclips or clipless pedals, practice getting in and out of the pedals. See paragraph B.4 above and SECTION 4.E.4.
If your bike has suspension, familiarize yourself with how the suspension responds to brake application and rider weight shifts. See paragraph B.6 above and SECTION 4.F.
Practice shifting the gears (see SECTION 4.D). Remember to never move the shifter while pedaling backward, nor pedal backwards immediately after having moved the shifter. This could jam the chain and cause serious damage to the bicycle.
Check out the handling and response of the bike; and check the comfort.
If you have any questions, or if you feel anything about the bike is not as it should be, consult your dealer before you ride.
SECTION 2. SAFETY
WARNING
MANY STATES REQUIRE SPECIFIC SAFETY DEVICES. IT IS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY TO FAMILIARIZE YOURSELF WITH THE LAWS OF THE STATE WHERE YOU RIDE AND TO COMPLY WITH ALL APPLICABLE LAWS, INCLUDING PROPERLY EQUIPPING YOURSELF AND YOUR BIKE AS THE LAW REQUIRES.
Observe all local bicycle laws and regulations.
Observe regulations about bicycle lighting, licensing of bicycles, riding on sidewalks, laws regulating bike path and trail use, helmet laws, child carrier laws, special bicycle trac laws.
It’s your responsibility to know and obey the laws.
8 9
2.A  THE BASICS
1. Always wear a cycling helmet which meets the latest certification standards and is appropriate for the type of riding you do. Always follow the helmet manufacturer’s instructions for fit, use and care of your helmet. Most serious bicycle injuries involve head injuries which might have been avoided if the rider had worn an appropriate helmet.
Figure 1. Bicycle Helmet
Your helmet should be:
• U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission
(CPSC) certified (look for the label on the helmet)
• Properly Sized for You
• Properly Fitted to You
• Properly Attached to Your Head!
• Undamaged
ASK YOUR RETAILER FOR HELP
2. Always do the Mechanical Safety Check (SECTION 1.C) before you get on a bike.
3. Be thoroughly familiar with the controls of your bicycle: brakes (SECTION 4.C.); pedals (SECTION
4.E.); shifting (SECTION 4.D.)
4. Be careful to keep body parts and other objects away from the sharp teeth of chainrings, the moving chain, the turning pedals and cranks, and the spinning wheels of your bicycle.
5. Always wear:
• Shoes that will stay on your feet and will grip the
pedals. Never ride barefoot or in sandals.
• Bright, visible clothing that is not so loose that
it can be tangled in the bicycle or snagged by objects at the side of the road or trail.
• Protective eye wear, to protect against airborne
dirt, dust and bugs —tinted when the sun is bright, clear when it’s not.
6. Unless you bicycle was specifically designed for jumping, don’t jump with your bike. Jumping a bike, particularly a BMX or mountain bike, can be fun; but it can put huge and unpredictable stress on the bicycle and its components. Riders who insist on jumping their bikes risk serious damage, to their bicycles as well as to themselves. Before you attempt to jump, do stunt riding or race with your bike, read and understand SECTION 2.F.
7. Ride at a speed appropriate for conditions. Increased speed means higher risk.
WARNING
FAILURE TO WEAR A HELMET WHEN RIDING MAY RESULT IN SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH.
PART I
2.B - RIDING SAFETY
1. Obey all rules of the road and all local trac laws.
2. You are sharing the road or the path with others — motorists, pedestrians and other cyclists. Respect their rights.
3. Ride defensively. Always assume that others do not see you.
4. Look ahead, and be ready to avoid:
• Vehicles slowing or turning, entering the road
or your lane ahead of you, or coming up behind you.
• Parked car doors opening.
• Pedestrians stepping out.
• Children or pets playing near the road.
• Pot holes, sewer grating, railroad tracks,
expansion joints, road or sidewalk construction, debris and other obstructions that could cause you to swerve into trac, catch your wheel or otherwise cause you to lose control and have an accident.
• The many other hazards and distractions which
can occur on a bicycle ride.
5. Ride in designated bike lanes, on designated bike paths or as close to the edge of the road as possible, in the direction of trac flow or as directed by local governing laws.
6. Stop at stop signs and trac lights; slow down and look both ways at street intersections. Remember that a bicycle always loses in a collision with a motor vehicle, so be prepared to yield even if you have the right of way.
7. Use approved hand signals for turning and stopping.
8. Never ride with headphones. They mask trac sounds and emergency vehicle sirens, distract you from concentrating on what’s going on around you, and their wires can tangle in the moving parts of the bicycle, causing you to lose control.
9. Never carry a passenger, and before installing a child carrier or trailer, check with you dealer or the bicycle manufacturer to make sure the bicycle is designed for it. If the bicycle is suitable for a child carrier or trailer, make sure that the carrier or trailer is correctly mounted and the child secured and wearing an approved and properly
fitted helmet.
10. Never carry anything which obstructs your vision or your complete control of the bicycle, or which could become entangled in the moving parts of the bicycle.
11. Never hitch a ride by holding on to another vehicle.
12. Don’t do stunts, wheelies or jumps. If you intend to do stunts, wheelies, jumps or go racing with your bike despite our advice not to, read SECTION
2.F, Downhill, Stunt or Competition Biking, now. Think carefully about your skills before deciding to take the large risks that go with this kind of riding.
13. Don’t weave through trac or make any moves that may surprise people with whom you are sharing the road.
14. Observe and yield the right of way.
15. Never ride your bicycle while under the influence of alcohol or drugs.
16. If possible, avoid riding in bad weather, when visibility is obscured, at dawn, dusk or in the dark, or when extremely tired. Each of these conditions increases the risk of accident.
10 11
2.C - OFF-ROAD SAFETY
2.D - WET WEATHER RIDING
We recommend that children not ride on rough terrain unless they are accompanied by an adult.
1. The variable conditions and hazards of o-road riding require close attention and specific skills. Start slowly on easier terrain and build up your skills. If your bike has suspension, the increased speed you may develop also increases your risk of losing control and falling. Get to know how to handle your bike safely before trying increased speed or more dicult terrain.
2. Wear safety gear appropriate to the kind of riding you plan to do.
3. Don’t ride alone in remote areas. Even when riding with others, make sure that someone knows where you’re going and when you expect to be back.
4. Always take along some kind of identification, so that people know who you are in case of an accident; and take along a couple of dollars in cash for a candy bar, a cool drink or an emergency phone call.
5. Yield right of way to pedestrians and animals. Ride in a way that does not frighten or endanger them, and give them enough room so that their unexpected moves don’t endanger you.
6. Be prepared. If something goes wrong while you’re riding o-road, help may not be close.
7. Before you attempt to jump, do stunt riding or race with your bike, read and understand SECTION 2.F.
Under wet conditions, the stopping power of your brakes (as well as the brakes of other vehicles sharing the road) is dramatically reduced and your tires don’t grip nearly as well. This makes it harder to control speed and easier to lose control.
WARNING
WET WEATHER IMPAIRS TRACTION, BRAKING AND VISIBILITY, BOTH FOR THE BICYCLIST AND FOR OTHER VEHICLES SHARING THE ROAD.
The risk of an accident is dramatically increased in wet conditions.
To make sure that you can slow down and stop safely in wet conditions, ride more slowly and apply your brakes earlier and more gradually than you would under normal, dry conditions. See also SECTION 4.C.
O-Road Respect
Obey the local laws regulating where and how you can ride o-road, and respect private property. You may be sharing the trail with others — hikers, equestrians, other cyclists. Respect their rights. Stay on the designated trail. Don’t contribute to erosion by riding in mud or with unnecessary sliding. Don’t disturb the ecosystem by cutting your own trail or shortcut through vegetation or streams. It is your responsibility to minimize your impact on the environment. Leave things as you found them; and always take out everything you brought in.
PART I
2.E - NIGHT RIDING
Riding a bicycle at night is much more dangerous than riding during the day. A bicyclist is very dicult for motorists and pedestrians to see. Therefore, children should never ride at dawn, at dusk or at night. Adults who chose to accept the greatly increased risk of riding at dawn, at dusk or at night need to take extra care both riding and choosing specialized equipment which helps reduce that risk. Consult your dealer about night riding safety equipment.
WARNING
REFLECTORS ARE NOT A SUBSTITUTE FOR REQUIRED LIGHTS. RIDING AT DAWN, AT DUSK, AT NIGHT OR AT OTHER TIMES OF POOR VISIBILITY WITHOUT AN ADEQUATE BICYCLE LIGHTING SYSTEM AND WITHOUT REFLECTORS IS DANGEROUS AND MAY RESULT IN SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH.
Bicycle reflectors are designed to pick up and reflect street lights and car lights in a way that may help you to be seen and recognized as a moving bicyclist.
CAUTION
Check reflectors and their mounting brackets regularly to make sure that they are clean,straight, unbroken and securely mounted. Have your dealer replace damaged reflectors and straighten or tighten any that are bent or loose.
The mounting brackets of front and rear reflectors are often designed as brake straddle cable safety catches which prevent the straddle cable from catching on the tire tread if the cable jumps out of its yoke or breaks.
WARNING
DO NOT REMOVE THE FRONT OR REAR REFLECTORS OR REFLECTOR BRACKETS FROM YOUR BICYCLE.
They are an integral part of the bicycle’s safety system.
REMOVING THE REFLECTORS MAY REDUCE YOUR VISIBILITY TO OTHERS USING THE ROADWAY. BEING STRUCK BY OTHER VEHICLES MAY RESULT IN SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH.
The reflector brackets may protect you from the brake straddle cable catching on the tire in the event of brake cable failure. If a brake straddle cable catches on the tire, it can cause the wheel to stop suddenly, causing you to loose control and fall.
If you choose to ride under conditions of poor visibility, check and be sure you comply with all local laws about night riding, and take the following strongly recommended additional precautions:
• Purchase and install battery or generator
powered head and tail lights which meet all regulatory requirements and provide adequate visibility.
• Wear light colored, reective clothing and
accessories, such as a reflective vest, reflective arm and leg bands, reflective stripes on your helmet, flashing lights attached to your body and/or your bicycle ... any reflective device or light source that moves will help you get the attention of approaching motorists, pedestrians and other trac.
• Make sure your clothing or anything you may
be carrying on the bicycle does not obstruct a reflector or light.
• Make sure that your bicycle is equipped with
correctly positioned and securely mounted reflectors.
12 13
WHILE RIDING AT DAWN, AT DUSK OR AT NIGHT:
• Ride slowly.
• Avoid dark areas, areas of heavy or fast-
moving trac.
• Avoid road hazards.
• If possible, ride on familiar routes.
IF RIDING IN TRAFFIC:
• Be predictable. Ride so that drivers can see
you and predict your movements.
• Be alert. Ride defensively and expect the
unexpected.
• If you plan to ride in trac often, ask your
dealer about trac safety classes or a good book on bicycle trac safety.
WARNING
ALTHOUGH MANY CATALOGS, ADVERTISEMENTS AND ARTICLES ABOUT BICYCLING DEPICT RIDERS ENGAGED IN EXTREME RIDING, THIS ACTIVITY IS EXTREMELY DANGEROUS, INCREASES YOUR RISK OF INJURY OR DEATH, AND INCREASES THE SEVERITY OF ANY INJURY.
Remember that the action depicted is being performed by professionals with many years of training and experience.
Know your limits and always wear a helmet and other appropriate safety gear. Even with state­of-the-art protective safety gear, you could be seriously injured or killed when jumping, stunt riding, riding downhill at speed or in competition.
2.F - EXTREME, STUNT OR
COMPETITION RIDING
Whether you call it Aggro, Hucking, Freeride, North Shore, Downhill, Jumping, Stunt Riding, Racing or something else: if you engage in this sort of extreme, aggressive riding you will get hurt, and you voluntarily assume a greatly increased risk of injury or death.
Not all bicycles are designed for these types of riding, and those that are may not be suitable for all types of aggressive riding. Check with your dealer or the bicycle’s manufacturer about the suitability of your bicycle before engaging in extreme riding.
When riding fast down hill, you can reach speeds achieved by motorcycles, and therefore face similar hazards and risks. Have your bicycle and equipment carefully inspected by a qualified mechanic and be sure it is in perfect condition. Consult with expert riders and race ocials on conditions and equipment advisable at the site where you plan to ride. Wear appropriate safety gear, including an approved full face helmet, full finger gloves, and body armor. Ultimately, it is your responsibility to have proper equipment and to be familiar with course conditions.
WARNING
Bicycles and bicycle parts have limitations with regard to strength and integrity, and this type of riding can exceed those limitations or dramatically reduce the length of their safe use.
(continued on next page...)
PART I
(continued from previous page...)
We recommend against this type of riding because of the increased risks; but if you choose to take the risk, at least:
• Take lessons from a competent instructor rst
• Start with easy learning exercises and slowly
develop your skills before trying more dicult or dangerous riding.
• Use only designated areas for stunts, jumping,
racing or fast downhill riding
• Wear a full face helmet, safety pads and other
safety gear.
• Understand and recognize that the stresses
imposed on your bike by this kind of activity may break or damage parts of the bicycle and void the warranty.
• Take your bicycle to your dealer if anything
breaks or bends. Do not ride your bicycle when any part is damaged.
If you ride downhill at speed, do stunt riding or ride in competition, know the limits of your skill and experience. Ultimately, avoiding injury is your responsibility.
2.G - CHANGING COMPONENTS OR ADDING ACCESSORIES
There are many components and accessories available to enhance the comfort, performance and appearance of your bicycle. However, if you change components or add accessories, you do so at your own risk. The bicycle’s manufacturer may not have tested that component or accessory for compatibility, reliability or safety on your bicycle.
Before installing any component or accessory, including a dierent size tire, make sure that it is compatible with your bicycle by checking with your dealer.
Be sure to read, understand and follow the instructions that accompany the products you purchase for your bicycle. See also PART II, SECTION D. INSPECT FOR SAFETY.
Be sure to read, understand and follow the instructions that accompany the products you purchase for your bicycle. See also PART II, SECTION D. INSPECT FOR SAFETY.
WARNING
FAILURE TO CONFIRM COMPATIBILITY, PROPERLY INSTALL, OPERATE AND MAINTAIN ANY COMPONENT OR ACCESSORY CAN RESULT IN SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH.
WARNING
Changing the components on your bike with other than genuine replacement parts compromise the safety of your bicycle and may void the warranty. Check with your dealer before changing the components on your bike.
14 15
SECTION 3. FIT
NOTE: Correct fit is an essential element of bicycling
safety, performance and comfort. Making the adjustments to your bicycle which result in correct fit for your body and riding conditions requires experience, skill and special tools. Always have your dealer make the adjustments on your bicycle; or, if you have the experience, skill and tools, have your dealer check your work before riding.
WARNING
IF YOUR BICYCLE DOES NOT FIT PROPERLY, YOU MAY LOSE CONTROL AND FALL.
If your new bike doesn’t fit, ask your dealer to exchange it before you ride it.
3.A - STAND OVER HEIGHT
1. Diamond frame bicycles
Stand over height is the basic element of bike fit (see fig. 2). It is the distance from the ground to the top of the bicycle’s frame at that point where your crotch is when straddling the bike. To check for correct stand over height, straddle the bike while wearing the kind of shoes in which you’ll be riding, and bounce vigorously on your heels. If your crotch touches the frame, the bike is too big for you. Don’t even ride the bike around the block. A bike which you ride only on paved surfaces and never take o-road should give you a minimum stand over height clearance of two inches (5 cm). A bike that you’ll ride on unpaved surfaces should give you a minimum of three inches (7.5 cm) of stand over height clearance. And a bike that you’ll use o road should give you four inches (10 cm) or more of clearance.
Figure 2. Stand Over Height
WARNING
IF YOU PLAN TO USE YOUR BIKE FOR JUMPING OR STUNT RIDING, READ SECTION 2.F AGAIN.
2. Step-through frame bicycles
Standover height does not apply to bicycles with step-through frames. Instead, the limiting dimension is determined by saddle height range. You must be able to adjust your saddle position as described in
3.B. SADDLE POSITION without exceeding the limits set by the height of the top of the seat tube and the ”Minimum Insertion” or “Maximum Extension” mark on the seat post.
PART I
3.B - SADDLE POSITION
Correct saddle adjustment is an important factor in getting the most performance and comfort from your bicycle. If the saddle position is not comfortable for you, see your dealer.
The saddle can be adjusted in three directions:
1. Up and Down Adjustment
To check for correct saddle height (fig. 3):
• Sit on the saddle;
• Place one heel on a pedal;
• Rotate the crank until the pedal with your heel
on it is in the down position and the crank arm is parallel to the seat tube.
If your leg is not completely straight, your saddle
height needs to be adjusted. If your hips must rock for the heel to reach the pedal, the saddle is too high. If your leg is bent at the knee with your heel on the pedal, the saddle is too low.
Once the saddle is at the correct height, make sure that the seat post does not project from the frame beyond its “Minimum Insertion” or “Maximum Extension” mark (fig. 4).
NOTE: Some bicycles have a sight hole in the seat tube, the purpose of which is to make it easy to see whether the seat post is inserted in the seat tube far enough to be safe. If your bicycle has such a sight hole, use it instead of the “Minimum Insertion” or “Maximum Extension” mark to make sure the seat post is inserted in the seat tube far enough to be visible through the sight hole.
If your bike has an interrupted seat tube, as is the case on some suspension bikes, you must also make sure that the seat post is far enough into the frame so that you can touch it through the bottom of the interrupted seat tube with the tip of your finger without inserting your finger beyond its first knuckle. Also see NOTE above and fig. 5).
WARNING
If your seat post is not inserted in the seat tube as described in B.1 above, the seat post may break, which could cause you to lose control and fall.
Figure 3. Saddle Position
Ask your dealer to set the saddle for your optimal riding position and to show you how to make this adjustment. If you choose to make your own saddle height adjustment:
• loosen the seat post clamp
• raise or lower the seat post in the seat tube
• make sure the saddle is straight fore and aft
• re-tighten the seat post clamp to the
recommended torque (See manufacturer’s instructions).
Figure 4. Minimum Insertion Mark
16 17
NOTE: If your bicycle is equipped with a suspension
seat post, periodically ask your dealer to check it. Ask your dealer for recommended service intervals for your suspension seat post.
Small changes in saddle position can have a substantial eect on performance and comfort. To find your best saddle position, make only one adjustment at a time.
WARNING
Figure 5. Interrupted Seat Tube
2. Front and Back Adjustment
The saddle can be adjusted forward or back to help you get the optimal position on the bike. Ask your dealer to set the saddle for your optimal riding position and to show you how to make this adjustment.
If you choose to make your own front and back adjustment, make sure that the clamp mechanism is clamping on the straight part of the saddle rails and is not touching the curved part of the rails, and that you are using the recommended torque on the clamping fastener(s) (See manufacturer’s instructions).
3. Saddle Angle Adjustment
Most people prefer a horizontal saddle; but some riders like the saddle nose angled up or down just a little. Your dealer can adjust saddle angle or teach you how to do it.
If you choose to make your own saddle angle adjustment and you have a single bolt saddle clamp on your seat post, it is critical that you loosen the clamp bolt suciently to allow any serrations on the mechanism to disengage before changing the saddle’s angle, and then that the serrations fully re-engage before you tighten the clamp bolt to the recommended torque (See manufacturer’s instructions).
When making saddle angle adjustments with a single bolt saddle clamp, always check to make sure that the serrations on the mating surfaces of the clamp are not worn. Worn serrations on the clamp can allow the saddle to move, causing you to lose control and fall.
Always tighten fasteners to the correct torque. Bolts that are too tight can stretch and deform. Bolts that are too loose can move and fatigue. Either mistake can lead to a sudden failure of the bolt, causing you to lose control and fall.
WARNING
After any saddle adjustment, be sure that the saddle adjusting mechanism is properly tightened before riding. A loose saddle clamp or seat post binder can cause damage to the seat post, or can cause you to lose control and fall.
A correctly tightened saddle adjusting mechanism will allow no saddle movement in any direction. Periodically check to make sure that the saddle adjusting mechanism is properly tightened.
(continued on next page...)
PART I
(continued from previous page...)
If, in spite of carefully adjusting the saddle height, tilt and fore-and-aft position, your saddle is still uncomfortable, you may need a dierent saddle design. Saddles, like people, come in many dierent shapes, sizes and resilience. Your dealer can help you select a saddle which, when correctly adjusted for your body and riding style, will be comfortable.
WARNING
Some people have claimed that extended riding with a saddle which is incorrectly adjusted or which does not support your pelvic area correctly can cause short-term or long-term injury to nerves and blood vessels, or even impotence.
If your saddle causes you pain, numbness or other discomfort, listen to your body and stop riding until you see your dealer about saddle adjustment or a dierent saddle.
3.C - Handlebar Height And Angle
Your bike is equipped either with a “threadless” stem, which clamps on to the outside of the steerer tube, or with a “quill” stem, which clamps inside the steerer tube by way of an expanding binder bolt. If you aren’t absolutely sure which type of stem your bike has, ask your dealer.
If your bike has a “threadless” stem (fig 6), your dealer may be able to change handlebar height by moving height adjustment spacers from below the stem to above the stem, or vice versa. Otherwise, you’ll have to get a stem of dierent length or rise. Consult your dealer. Do not attempt to do this yourself, as it requires special knowledge.
If your bike has a “quill” stem (fig 7), you can ask your dealer to adjust the handlebar height a bit by adjusting stem height.
A quill stem has an etched or stamped mark on its shaft which designates the stem’s “Minimum Insertion” or “Maximum Extension”. This mark must not be visible above the headset.
WARNING
A QUILL STEM’S “MINIMUM INSERTION MARK” MUST NOT BE VISIBLE ABOVE THE TOP OF THE HEADSET.
If the stem is extended beyond the minimum insertion mark the stem may break or damage the fork’s steerer tube, which could cause you to lose control and fall.
18 19
WARNING
On some bicycles, changing the stem or stem height can aect the tension of the front brake cable, locking the front brake or creating excess cable slack which can make the front brake inoperable. If the front brake pads move in towards the wheel rim or out away from the wheel rim when the stem or stem height is changed, the brakes must be correctly adjusted before you ride the bicycle.
Some bicycles are equipped with an adjustable angle stem. If your bicycle has an adjustable angle stem, ask your dealer to show you how to adjust if. Do not attempt to make the adjustment yourself, as changing stem angle may also require adjustments to the bicycle’s controls.
WARNING
Always tighten fasteners to the correct torque. Bolts that are too tight can stretch and deform. Bolts that are too loose can move and fatigue. Either mistake can lead to a sudden failure of the bolt, causing you to lose control and fall.
3.D - Control Position Adjustments
The angle of the brake and shift control levers and their position on the handlebars can be changed. Ask your dealer to make the adjustments for you.
If you choose to make your own control lever angle adjustment, be sure to re-tighten the clamp fasteners to the recommended torque (See manufacturer’s instructions).
3.E - Brake Reach
Many bikes have brake levers which can be adjusted for reach. If you have small hands or find it dicult to squeeze the brake levers, your dealer can either adjust the reach or fit shorter reach brake levers.
WARNING
THE SHORTER THE BRAKE LEVER REACH, THE MORE CRITICAL IT IS TO HAVE CORRECTLY ADJUSTED BRAKES, SO THAT FULL BRAKING POWER CAN BE APPLIED WITHIN AVAILABLE BRAKE LEVER TRAVEL.
Brake lever travel insucient to apply full braking power can result in loss of control, which may result in serious injury or death.
WARNING
AN INSUFFICIENTLY TIGHTENED STEM BINDER BOLT, HANDLEBAR BINDER BOLT OR BAR END EXTENSION CLAMPING BOLT MAY COMPROMISE STEERING ACTION, WHICH COULD CAUSE YOU TO LOSE CONTROL AND FALL.
Place the front wheel of the bicycle between your legs and attempt to twist the handlebar/ stem assembly. If you can twist the stem in relation to the front wheel, turn the handlebars in relation to the stem, or turn the bar end extensions in relation to the handlebar, the bolts are insuciently tightened.
Your dealer can also change the angle of the handlebar or bar end extensions.
PART I
SECTION 4. TECH
It’s important to your safety, performance and enjoyment to understand how things work on your bicycle.
We urge you to ask your dealer how to do the things described in this section before you attempt them yourself, and that you have your dealer check your work before you ride the bike.
If you have even the slightest doubt as to whether you understand something in this section of the Manual, talk to your dealer.
See also:
PART I “Coaster Brakes” PART II, SECTION B., INTENDED USE PART II, SECTION D., INSPECT FOR SAFETY PART II, SECTION E., MAINTENANCE
4.A - Wheels
Bicycle wheels are designed to be removable for easier transportation and for repair of a tire puncture. In most cases, the wheel axles are inserted into slots, called “dropouts” in the fork and frame, but some suspension mountain bikes use what is called a “through axle” wheel mounting system.
If you have a mountain bike equipped with through axle front or rear wheels, make sure that your dealer has given you the manufacturer’s instructions, and follow those when installing or removing a through axle wheel. If you don’t know what a through axle is, ask your dealer.
If you do not have a bicycle with a through-axle mounting system, it will have wheel secured in one of the following three ways:
• A hollow axle with a shaft (“skewer”) running
through it which has an adjustable tension nut on one end and an over-center cam on the other (cam action system, fig.8a & 8b).
• A hollow axle with a shaft (“skewer”) running
through it which has a nut on one end and a fitting for a hex key, lock lever or other tightening device on the other (through bolt, fig. 9)
• Hex nuts or hex key bolts which are threaded on
to or into the hub axle (bolt-on wheel, fig. 10)
WARNING
RIDING WITH AN IMPROPERLY SECURED WHEEL CAN ALLOW THE WHEEL TO WOBBLE OR FALL OFF THE BICYCLE, OR SUDDENLY
STOP THE WHEEL, WHICH CAN CAUSE
SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH. THEREFORE, IT IS ESSENTIAL THAT YOU:
1. Ask your dealer to help you make sure you know how to install and remove your wheels safely.
2. Understand and apply the correct technique for clamping your wheel in place.
3. Each time, before you ride the bike, check that the wheel is securely clamped. The clamping action of a correctly secured wheel must emboss the surfaces of the dropouts.
Some bicycles are equipped with a quick release lever and a disc brake. If the bicycle is ridden with the lever incorrectly adjusted or open, and the lever contacts the disc or wheel (next gure), the front wheel could stop suddenly, causing the rider to fall. Always make sure your wheels are correctly attached, and the attachment mechanisms closed and locked, before riding the bicycle.
Brake Disc
Quick Release
Lever
20 21
Your bicycle may be equipped with a dierent securing method for the front wheel than for the rear wheel. Discuss the wheel securing method for your bicycle with your dealer.
It is very important that you understand the type of wheel securing method on your bicycle, that you know how to secure the wheels correctly, and that you know how to apply the correct clamping force that safely secures the wheel.
Ask your dealer to instruct you in correct wheel removal and installation, and ask for the manufacturer’s instructions.
PART I
1. Front Wheel Secondary Retention Devices
Most bicycles have front forks which utilize a secondary wheel retention device to reduce the risk of the wheel disengaging from the fork if the wheel is incorrectly secured. Secondary retention devices are not a substitute for correctly securing your front wheel.
Secondary retention devices fall into two basic categories:
a. The clip-on type is a part which the manufacturer
adds to the front wheel hub or front fork.
b. The integral type is molded, cast or machined
into the outer faces of the front fork dropouts.
Ask your dealer to explain the particular secondary retention device on your bike.
WARNING
DO NOT REMOVE OR DISABLE THE SECONDARY RETENTION DEVICE.
As its name implies, it serves as a back-up for a critical adjustment. If the wheel is not secured correctly, the secondary retention device can reduce the risk of the wheel disengaging from the fork. Removing or disabling the secondary retention device may also void the warranty.
Secondary retention devices are not a substitute for correctly securing your wheel. Failure to properly secure the wheel can cause the wheel to wobble or disengage, which could cause you to loose control and fall, resulting in serious injury or death.
2. Wheels with cam action systems
There are currently two types of over-center cam wheel retention mechanisms: the traditional over­center cam (fig. 8a) and the cam-and-cup system (fig. 8b). Both use an over-center cam action to clamp the bike’s wheel in place. Your bicycle may have a cam-and-cup front wheel retention system and a traditional rear wheel cam action system.
a. Adjusting the traditional cam action mechanism (fig. 8a)
The wheel hub is clamped in place by the force of the over-center cam pushing against one dropout and pulling the tension adjusting nut, by way of the skewer, against the other dropout. The amount of clamping force is controlled by the tension adjusting nut. Turning the tension adjusting nut clockwise while keeping the cam lever from rotating increases clamping force; turning it counterclockwise while keeping the cam lever from rotating reduces clamping force. Less than half a turn of the tension adjusting nut can make the dierence between safe clamping force and unsafe clamping force.
WARNING
THE FULL FORCE OF THE CAM ACTION IS NEEDED TO CLAMP THE WHEEL SECURELY.
Holding the nut with one hand and turning the lever like a wing nut with the other hand until everything is as tight as you can get it will not clamp a cam action wheel safely in the dropouts.
See also WARNING on page 20.
22 23
b. Adjusting the cam-and-cup mechanism (fig. 8B)
The cam-and-cup system on your front wheel will have been correctly adjusted for your bicycle by your dealer. Ask your dealer to check the adjustment every six months. Do not use a cam-and-cup front wheel on any bicycle other than the one for which your dealer adjusted it.
3. Removing And Installing Wheels
WARNING
IF YOUR BIKE IS EQUIPPED WITH A HUB BRAKE SUCH AS A REAR COASTER BRAKE, FRONT OR REAR DRUM, BAND OR ROLLER BRAKE; OR IF IT HAS AN INTERNAL GEAR REAR HUB, DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REMOVE THE WHEEL.
The removal and re-installation of most hub brakes and internal gear hubs requires special knowledge. Incorrect removal or assembly can result in brake or gear failure, which can cause you to lose control and fall.
CAUTION
If your bike has a disc brake, exercise care in touching the rotor or caliper. Disc rotors have sharp edges, and both rotor and caliper can get very hot during use.
(2) If your bike has cam action front wheel retention,
move the cam lever from the locked or CLOSED position to the OPEN position (figs. 8a & b). If your bike has through bolt or bolt-on front wheel retention, loosen the fastener(s) a few turns counter-clockwise using an appropriate wrench, lock key or the integral lever.
(3) If your front fork has a clip-on type secondary
retention device, disengage it . If your front fork has an integral secondary retention device, and a traditional cam action system (fig. 8a) loosen the tension adjusting nut enough to allow removing the wheel from the dropouts. If your front wheel uses a cam-and-cup system, (fig. 8b) squeeze the cup and cam lever together while removing the wheel. No rotation of any part is necessary with the cam-and-cup system.
You may need to tap the top of the wheel with
the palm of your hand to release the wheel from the front fork.
b. Installing a disk brake or rim brake front wheel
CAUTION
If your bike is equipped with a front disk brake, be careful not to damage the disk, caliper or brake pads when re-inserting the disk into the caliper. Never activate a disk brake’s control lever unless the disk is correctly inserted in the caliper. See also Section 4.C.
a. Removing a disk brake or rim brake front wheel
(1) If your bike has rim brakes, disengage the
brake’s quick-release mechanism to increase the clearance between the tire and the brake pads (See Section 4.C fig. 11 through 15).
(1) If your bike has cam action front wheel retention,
move the cam lever so that it curves away from the wheel (fig. 8b). This is the OPEN position. If your bike has through bolt or bolt-on front wheel retention, go to the next step.
(continued on next page...)
PART I
(continued from previous page...)
(2) With the steering fork facing forward, insert the
wheel between the fork blades so that the axle seats firmly at the top of the fork dropouts. The cam lever, if there is one, should be on rider’s left side of the bicycle (fig. 8a & b). If your bike has a clip-on type secondary retention device, engage it.
(3) If you have a traditional cam action mechanism:
holding the cam lever in the ADJUST position with your right hand, tighten the tension adjusting nut with your left hand until it is finger tight against the fork dropout (fig. 8a). If you have a cam-and-cup system: the nut and cup (fig. 8b) will have snapped into the recessed area of the fork dropouts and no adjustment should be required.
(4) While pushing the wheel firmly to the top of the
slots in the fork dropouts, and at the same time centering the wheel rim in the fork:
(a) With a cam action system, move the cam lever
upwards and swing it into the CLOSED position (fig. 8a & b). The lever should now be parallel to the fork blade and curved toward the wheel. To apply enough clamping force, you should have to wrap your fingers around the fork blade for leverage, and the lever should leave a clear imprint in the palm of your hand.
(b) With a through-bolt or bolt-on system, tighten
the fasteners to the torque specifications in Appendix D or the hub manufacturer’s instructions.
NOTE:
If, on a traditional cam action system, the lever
cannot be pushed all the way to a position parallel to the fork blade, return the lever to the OPEN position. Then turn the tension adjusting nut counterclockwise one-quarter turn and try tightening the lever again.
(6) With a through-bolt or bolt-on system, tighten
the fasteners to the torque specifications in “PART II Tightening Torques” or the hub manufacturer’s instructions.
WARNING
SECURELY CLAMPING THE WHEEL WITH A CAM ACTION RETENTION DEVICE TAKES CONSIDERABLE FORCE.
If you can fully close the cam lever without wrapping your fingers around the fork blade for leverage, the lever does not leave a clear imprint in the palm of your hand, and the serrations on the wheel fastener do not emboss the surfaces of the dropouts, the tension is insucient. Open the lever; turn the tension adjusting nut clockwise a quarter turn; then try again.
See also WARNING on page 20.
(6) If you disengaged the brake quick-release
mechanism in 3. a. (1) above, re-engage it to restore correct brake pad-to-rim clearance.
(7) Spin the wheel to make sure that it is centered
in the frame and clears the brake pads; then squeeze the brake lever and make sure that the brakes are operating correctly.
c. Removing a disk brake or rim brake rear wheel
(1) If you have a multi-speed bike with a derailleur
gear system: shift the rear derailleur to high gear (the smallest, outermost rear sprocket).
If you have an internal gear rear hub, consult your
dealer or the hub manufacturer’s instructions before attempting to remove the rear wheel.
If you have a single-speed bike with rim or disk
brake, go to step (4) below.
(2) If your bike has rim brakes, disengage the
brake’s quick-release mechanism to increase the clearance between the wheel rim and the brake pads (see Section 4.C, figs. 11 through 15).
24 25
(3) On a derailleur gear system, pull the derailleur
body back with your right hand.
(4) With a cam action mechanism, move the quick-
release lever to the OPEN position (fig. 8b). With a through bolt or bolt on mechanism, loosen the fastener(s) with an appropriate wrench, lock lever or integral lever; then push the wheel forward far enough to be able to remove the chain from the rear sprocket.
(5) Lift the rear wheel o the ground a few inches
and remove it from the rear dropouts.
d. Installing a disk brake or rim brake rear wheel
CAUTION
If your bike is equipped with a rear disk brake, be careful not to damage the disk, caliper or brake pads when re-inserting the disk into the caliper. Never activate a disk brake’s control lever unless the disk is correctly inserted in the caliper.
(1) With a cam action system, move the cam lever
to the OPEN position (see fig. 8 a & b). The lever should be on the side of the wheel opposite the derailleur and freewheel sprockets.
(2) On a derailleur bike, make sure that the rear
derailleur is still in its outermost, high gear, position; then pull the derailleur body back with your right hand. Put the chain on top of the smallest freewheel sprocket.
(3) On single-speed, remove the chain from the
front sprocket, so that you have plenty of slack in the chain. Put the chain on the rear wheel sprocket.
(4) Then, insert the wheel into the frame dropouts
and pull it all the way in to the dropouts.
(5) On a single speed or an internal gear hub, replace
the chain on the chainring; pull the wheel back in the dropouts so that it is straight in the frame and the chain has about 1/4 inches of up-and­down play.
(6) With a cam action system, move the cam lever
upwards and swing it into the CLOSED position (fig. 8 a & b). The lever should now be parallel to the seat stay or chain stay and curved toward the wheel. To apply enough clamping force, you should have to wrap your fingers around the seat stay or chainstay for leverage, and the lever should leave a clear imprint in the palm of your hand.
(7) With a through-bolt or bolt-on system, tighten
the fasteners to the torque specifications in PART II “Tightening Torques” or the hub manufacturer’s instructions.
NOTE:
If, on a traditional cam action system, the lever
cannot be pushed all the way to a position parallel to the seat stay or chain stay, return the lever to the OPEN position. Then turn the tension adjusting nut counterclockwise one-quarter turn and try tightening the lever again.
WARNING
SECURELY CLAMPING THE WHEEL WITH A CAM ACTION RETENTION DEVICE TAKES CONSIDERABLE FORCE.
If you can fully close the cam lever without wrapping your fingers around the seat stay or chain stay for leverage, the lever does not leave a clear imprint in the palm of your hand, and the serrations on the wheel fastener do not emboss the surfaces of the dropouts, the tension is insucient. Open the lever; turn the tension adjusting nut clockwise a quarter turn; then try again.
See also WARNING on page 20.
(continued on next page...)
PART I
(continued from previous page...)
(
8) If you disengaged the brake quick-release mechanism in 3. c. (2) above, re-engage it to restore correct brake pad-to-rim clearance.
(9) Spin the wheel to make sure that it is centered
in the frame and clears the brake pads; then squeeze the brake lever and make sure that the brakes are operating correctly.
Adjusting The Seat Post Cam Action Mechanism
The action of the cam squeezes the seat collar around the seat post to hold the seat post securely in place. The amount of clamping force is controlled by the tension adjusting nut. Turning the tension adjusting nut clockwise while keeping the cam lever from rotating increases clamping force; turning it counterclockwise while keeping the cam lever from rotating reduces clamping force. Less than half a turn of the tension adjusting nut can make the dierence between safe and unsafe clamping force.
4.B. SEAT POST CAM
ACTION CLAMP
Some bikes are equipped with a cam action seat post binder. The seat post cam action binder works exactly like the traditional wheel cam action fastener (Section 4.A.2) While a cam action binder looks like a long bolt with a lever on one end and a nut on the other, the binder uses an over-center cam action to rmly clamp the seat post (see g. 8a).
WARNING
Riding with an improperly tightened seat post can allow the saddle to turn or move and cause you to lose control and fall. Therefore:
1. Ask your dealer to help you make sure you know how to correctly clamp your seat post.
2. Understand and apply the correct technique for clamping your seat post.
3. Before you ride the bike, first check that the seat post is securely clamped.
WARNING
THE FULL FORCE OF THE CAM ACTION IS NEEDED TO CLAMP THE SEAT POST SECURELY.
Holding the nut with one hand and turning the lever like a wing nut with the other hand until everything is as tight as you can get it will not clamp the seat post safely.
WARNING
If you can fully close the cam lever without wrapping your fingers around the seat post or a frame tube for leverage, and the lever does not leave a clear imprint in the palm of your hand, the tension is insucient. Open the lever; turn the tension adjusting nut clockwise a quarter turn; then try again.
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4.C - BRAKES
There are three general types of bicycle brakes: rim brakes, which operate by squeezing the wheel rim between two brake pads; disc brakes, which operate by squeezing a hub-mounted disc between two brake pads; and internal hub brakes. All three can be operated by way of a handlebar mounted lever. On some models of bicycle, the internal hub brake is operated by pedaling backwards. This is called a Coaster Brake and is described in “Coaster Brakes” in
this section.
WARNING
1. Riding with improperly adjusted brakes or worn
brake pads, or wheel on which the rim wear mark is visible is dangerous and can result in serious injury or death.
2. Applying brakes too hard or too suddenly can lock
up a wheel, which could cause you to lose control and fall. Sudden or excessive application of the front brake may pitch the rider over the handlebars, which may result in serious injury or death.
3. Some bicycle brakes, such as disc brakes (fig.
11) and linear-pull brakes (fig.12), Are extremely
powerful. Take extra care in becoming familiar with these brakes and exercise particular care when using them.
4. Some bicycle brakes are equipped with a brake
force modulator, a small, cylindrical device through which the brake control cable runs and which is designed to provide a more progressive application of braking force. A modulator makes the initial brake lever force more gentle, progressively increasing force until full force is achieved. If your bike is equipped with a brake force modulator, take extra care in becoming familiar with its performance characteristics.
5. Disc brakes can get extremely hot with extended
use. Be careful not to touch a disc brake until it has had plenty of time to cool.
6. See the brake manufacturer’s instructions for
installation, operation and care of your brakes. If you do not have the manufacturer’s instructions, see your dealer or contact the brake manufacturer.
7. If replacing worn or damaged parts, use only
manufacturer approved genuine replacement parts
1. Brake Controls And Features
It’s very important to your safety that you learn and remember which brake lever controls which brake on your bike.
Traditionally, in the U.S. the right brake lever controls the rear brake and the left brake lever controls the front brake; but, to check how your bike’s brakes are set up, squeeze one brake lever and look to see which brake, front or rear, engages. Now do the same with the other brake lever.
Make sure that your hands can reach and squeeze the brake levers comfortably. If your hands are too small to operate the levers comfortably, consult your dealer before riding the bike. The lever reach may be adjustable; or you may need a dierent brake lever design.
Most rim brakes have some form of quick-release mechanism to allow the brake pads to clear the tire when a wheel is removed or reinstalled. When the brake quick release is in the open position, the brakes are inoperative. Ask your dealer to make sure that you understand the way the brake quick release works on your bike (see figs. 12, 13. 14 & 15) and check each time to make sure both brakes work correctly before you get on the bike.
2. How Brakes Work
The braking action of a bicycle is a function of the friction between the brake surfaces — usually the brake pads and the wheel rim. To make sure that you have maximum friction available, keep your wheel rims and brake pads clean and free of dirt, lubricants, waxes or polishes.
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PART I
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Brakes are designed to control your speed, not just to stop the bike. Maximum braking force for each wheel occurs at the point just before the wheel “locks up” (stops rotating) and starts to skid. Once the tire skids, you actually lose most of your stopping force and all directional control. You need to practice slowing and stopping smoothly without locking up a wheel. The technique is called progressive brake modulation. Instead of jerking the brake lever to the position where you think you’ll generate appropriate braking force, squeeze the lever, progressively increasing the braking force. If you feel the wheel begin to lock up, release pressure just a little to keep the wheel rotating just short of lockup.
It’s important to develop a feel for the amount of brake lever pressure required for each wheel at dierent speeds and on dierent surfaces. To better understand this, experiment a little by walking your bike and applying dierent amounts of pressure to each brake lever, until the wheel locks.
When you apply one or both brakes, the bike begins to slow, but your body wants to continue at the speed at which it was going. This causes a transfer of weight to the front wheel (or, under heavy braking, around the front wheel hub, which could send you flying over the handlebars).
A wheel with more weight on it will accept greater brake pressure before lockup; a wheel with less weight will lock up with less brake pressure. So, as you apply brakes and your weight is transferred forward, you need to shift your body toward the rear of the bike, to transfer weight back on to the rear wheel; and at the same time, you need to both decrease rear braking and increase front braking force. This is even more important on descents, because descents shift weight forward.
Two keys to eective speed control and safe stopping are controlling wheel lockup and weight transfer. This weight transfer is even more pronounced if your bike has a front suspension fork. Front suspension “dips” under braking, increasing the weight transfer (see also SECTION 4.F). Practice braking and weight transfer techniques where there is no trac or other hazards and distractions.
Everything changes when you ride on loose surfaces or in wet weather. Tire adhesion is reduced, so the wheels have less cornering and braking traction and can lock up with less brake force. Moisture or dirt on the brake pads reduces their ability to grip. The way to maintain control on loose or wet surfaces is to go more slowly.
More info:
ROAD BIKES: DISC BRAKES
Now, go to PART II of this manual and read “Understanding Disc Brakes on Road Bikes”
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