Cadillac V-63 1923 Operator's Manual

CADILLAC

OPERATOR'S

MANUAL

V-63

PRICE 35 CENTS

CADILLAC MOTOR CAR COMPANY

DETROIT

OPERATION

Part

Copyrighted 1923 By Cadillac Mmor Car Co.

Detroit. Midi,

SECOND EDITION

TRANSMISSION CONTROL LEVERc:

'J? STEM FOR ?! SPEEDOMETER

I TRIP RESET

VENTILATOR CONTROL .

HAND BRAKE LEVER

CLUTCH PEOAL=

.**.:# STARTER BUTTON

BRAKE PEDAL -„

/,-T-T

FOOT TMROTTLB rACCELERATOR)

^ FOOTIW8T

Fig. 1. Instruments, Control Levers and Pedal*.

LICENSE DATA

The following information may be found useful in making license appli-

cation: Number of cylinders 8 Cylinder bore 3¼ in. Piston displacement 314 cubic in. Stroke 5¼ in. Horsepower (N. A. C. C. rating) 31.25

Engine number:

The engine number is stamped on the crank case just back of the righthand blocik of cylinders, and on the name plate attached to the forward face of the dash.

The number of each

"V-63"

engine begins with the figures "63." Wheelbase: 132 in. Tread 56 in.

THE THREE MOST IMPORTANT THINGS IN CONNECTION

WITH THE CARE OF THE ENGINE

Use

of Suitable Oil

The use of Cadillac Engine Oil is recommended (see under "Lubricants"

page 31.)

Replacement of Oil

Replace the engine oil at the end of each 500 miles of travel during warm weather and at the end of each 350 miles of travel or once a week during cold weather. (See under "Replace Engine Oil" page 33 and "Replace Engine Oil Frequently During Cold Weather," page 34.)

Manipulation of Carburetor Enriching Button

After starting the engine, do not run it with the carburetor enriching button pulled back any longer than is absolutely necessary. (See under "Starting the Engine," page 9.)

THE USER'S RESPONSIBILITY

The information, advice and instruction contained in this Manual are furnished because the user of a motor car needs them. But if the user fails to heed the advice, the loss is not wholly his but partly ours as well.

A Cadillac car in the hands of an operator who will give it the reasonable consideration to which it is entitled, and which every car requires, will

run as smoothly and as quietly as is possible for any motor car to run. No car will give greater satisfaction nor will any car stand more abuse. But no car can be expected to stand continued abuse without showing the results

of it sooner or later.

We are interested that Cadillac cars render unfailing service and satisfaction. They are built for that purpose but the user must do his part after the car comes into his possession. The Cadillac is capable of rendering the best of service and directions are furnished which will guide the user toward obtaining that service. But if he persists in ignoring these directions,

there is no one but himself upon whom he can rightfully place the responsibility for difficulties which may result.

DRIVING AND CARING FOR A MOTOR CAR

Driving an automobile means more than simply starting, steering and stopping. To drive an automobile properly requires an understanding of the principles involved and the exercise of intelligence and judgment.

With well designed and correctly built automobiles, probably 95 per

cent of the so-called "troubles" are directly traceable to lack of lubrication, abuse, carelessness, and a lack of an understanding of the principles involved.

To begin with, the driver should study the construction of his car and thoroughly acquaint himself with its mechanism, the functions of its various parts and the "why" of everything connected with it. If he understands these he is better able to realize why certain things must be done and why certain other things must not be done, if he is to obtain the most satisfactory

results, the greatest efficiency and the greatest economy, together with durability and long life of the engine and car. Remember that the difference between a comprehensive understanding of your car and the superficial

knowledge possessed by many drivers is the difference between having "troubles" and not having them.

On the other hand is frequently found the user who is constantly tinkering with his car when there is no necessity for it. Avoid both extremes. If, after seeing that all parts are lubricated properly and that all bolts, nuts and screws are tight, the car is running well, let it alone. Many users drive their Cadillacs for months without finding an adjustment necessary. If ad-

justment seems necessary and you are not sufficiently acquainted with the construction of the car to know what adjustment is necessary or how to make it, don't experiment but take the car to a Cadillac service station. Service stations operated by Cadillac distributors and dealers display the official sign illustrated on the cover of this Manual.

The most important thing in the care of an automobile is proper lubrication. Part Two of this Manual gives detailed directions regarding lubrication.

PLACING A NEW CAR IN RUNNING CONDITION

Before the cars are shipped, the fuel and cooling systems are drained. When the car is received and before it is placed in use, the supply of gasoline and water must be replenished. During freezing weather an anti-freezing solution, should be used instead of water. (See under "Anti-Freezing Solutions," page 23.)

The car should be lubricated thoroughly in accordance with directions

contained in this Manual. (See under "Lubrication," Part II.)

Filling the Cooling System

Fill the cooling system with water during warm weather and with a suitable anti-freezing solution during freezing weather (see under "AntiFreezing Solutions," page 23.) To fill the cooling system proceed as follows:

Make sure that the cylinder drain plugs "E", Fig. 22, are tightly in place. Close the water pump drain valves "G". Turn the thermostat control shaft "B" on each water pump so that the triangular indicator on

the end of the shaft points up. The shaft may be turned in either direction.

There is a drain plug "E" in each cylinder block and a drain valve "G" and a thermostat control shaft "B" at each water pump. A special wrench for the drain valves "G" and the thermostat control shafts "B" is included in the tool equipment of the car.

Remove the radiator filler cap "A" and fill the cooling system to within one inch of the top of the filler. Then pour three quarts additional into the radiator filler to fill the condenser which is connected to the radiator overflow pipe. The last two quarts must be added slowly.

Screw the radiator filler cap down tightly after replacing it. This is important because the operation of the radiator condenser depends upon a tight joint at the radiator cap.

After filling the cooling system turn the thermostat control shafts "B" so that the triangular indicators point down. These indicators should point up when filling the cooling system and down at all other times.

Caution:—Do not use water in the cooling system during freezing weather. Use a good anti-freezing solution. Water will freeze even though the engine be run continuously.

Filling the Gasoline Tank

The gasoline tank is at the rear of the car. (See Figure 21.) The filler cap can be removed after loosening the thumb screw.

Filtered gasoline should be used to prevent dirt or water entering the gasoline system. Only high-grade, reliable filling stations, which supply filtered gasoline should be patronized.

After filling the tank and screwing on the filler cap, tighten the thumb

screw. This is necessary to prevent leakage of the air pressure by which gasoline is forced to the carburetor.

Operating a New Car

It is recommended that the operator of a new car refrain from driving it

at its maximum capacity and speed until the car has been driven at least

five hundred miles.

Although the parts of a Cadillac car are machined and ground with the greatest possible accuracy and fineness of finish, manufacturing processes cannot give to bearing surfaces the fine polish which results from actual operation at moderate speed and under light loads.

For this reason, it is advised that a car be driven no faster than twenty

miles per hour for the first two hundred and fifty miles, and no faster than twenty-five miles per hour for the second two hundred and fifty miles.

OPERATION

STARTING THE ENGINE

First make certain that the transmission control lever is in the

neutral position and that the hand brake is applied, (see Figure 1.)

If the fuel pressure gauge on the instrument board indicates a pressure of less than one pound, increase the pressure by means of the hand air compressor. The handle of the compressor is screwed into place. Loosen it by unscrewing it a few turns in the counter-clockwise direction. After the pressure has been increased to at least one pound, lock the plunger in place by holding it in and turning it in the clockwise direction.

Place the spark lever about one-third the way down from the "Advance" position, except in cold winter weather, when it should be at the "Advance" position. If the engine should be cranked by hand, always place the spark lever at the "Retard" position. If this precaution is not observed, a back kick will occur, resulting in personal injury.

In extremely cold winter weather, prime the carburetor by placing the throttle lever at the "Close" position, then pushing the accelerator button down to the floor and permitting it to return. Twice repeat this operation. Do not prime the carburetor except in extremely cold weather.

Place the throttle lever approximately one-fourth the way down from the "Close" position.

6. In cold weather, or in warm weather, if the engine has been standing

for some time, pull back the carburetor enriching button.

Switch on ignition by moving the ignition switch lever up.

8. Push down on the starter button. This will bring the starter into operation and will cause the engine to "turn over." (See under "Caution.") In extremely cold weather, when the car has been standing long enough to have become thoroughly chilled, it is a good plan to release the clutch before pressing down on the starter button, and to hold the clutch pedal down during the cranking operation. If the habit is formed of doing this regularly one will not be so likely to neglect to do it during cold weather.

9. Immediately the engine commences to run under its own power, which should be in a few seconds, permit the starter button to return to the normal position. If the carburetor enriching button is back, push it as far forward as possible without causing the engine to stop or slow down materially. Push it in as far forward as it goes as soon as the engine is warm enough to permit it. It is important that the button be left back no longer

than is absolutely necessary.

OPERATION

If the engine does not start within thirty seconds, do not continue to operate the starter, but permit the starter pedal to return to the normal position and determine the cause. Be certain that the ignition is on, that there is gasoline in the tank, and sufficient air pressure to force it to

the carburetor. The starter will crank the engine only; ignition and gasoline must be present before it will run.

Caution:—The action which causes the engine to "turn over" is produced by a gear of the electric starting motor sliding into mesh with teeth on the fly wheel of the engine. When pushing down on the starter button to throw these gears into mesh, if it should so happen that they are in just such positions that

the ends of the

teeth

the

starter gear come

against the ends of

the

teeth

of the fly wheel, instead of the teeth of one sliding between the teeth of the other, do not use force. Simply permit the starter btitton to return to the normal position and then push it down again. In the meantime, the gears will probably have

changed their relative positions sufficiently to permit the teeth to mesh.

Oil Pressure

Lubricating oil is fed under pressure to the main and connecting rod bearings of the engine (see under "Engine Lubrication," page 32.) The pressure of the oil is indicated by the pressure gauge on the instrument board. (See Fig. 1.)

When the engine is not running, the hand of the oil pressure gauge should remain at zero, but immediately the engine is started and while it is in operation, pressure should be indicated. The pressure indicated

depends upon the speed of the engine and the viscosity of the oil.

If at any time while the engine is in operation, the hand of the oil pressure gauge remains at zero, stop the engine at once and determine the cause. Serious engine trouble is a result of continuing to run the engine

without oil pressure.

GEAR SHIFTING

Caution: Do not attempt

shift from neutral

any

gear, ('p\ /7^

or from one gear to any other without first disengaging the *•-''

main engine clutch by pushing and holding down the clutch /O. pedal (see Figure 1.) ^-

As the transmission is of the selective type, the opera- I'L.

I (ff»

tor may shift from any gear to any other gear without

shifting through a third gear.

Control Lever

Referring to Fig. 2, the ball at the top of the trans- Positions. mission control or gear shifting lever is shown at "N" in the neutral position, at "L" in the low gear position, at "I" in the intermediate gear position, at "H" in the high gear position, and at "R" in the reverse gear position.

OPERATION

Starting the Car

To start the car, after starting the engine and unlocking the transmission lock, push down on the left pedal, which is the clutch pedal, thereby releasing the main engine clutch. Be sure the clutch pedal is pushed down far enough to release the clutch completely. Then disengage the hand brake by means of the hand lever—still holding the clutch pedal down.

(If the car is standing on a grade it will be necessary to hold it with the

foot brake until ready to start.) Next shift into low gear.

To do so, move the control lever as far to the left as possible and then

pull it back as far as it will go (Fig. 3.) Open the throttle slightly by means of the accelerator pedal or throttle lever and permit the main clutch to engage gradually, by allowing the pedal to come towards you slowly.

®-J

Fig.

S. Fig4.

Neutral to Low Low Gear

Gear.

Intermediate

Gear.

If it should so happen that the gears which mesh to make low gear are in positions such that the ends of the teeth of one gear come against the ends of the teeth of the other gear instead of the teeth of one sliding between the teeth of the other, do not force them but return the transmission control lever to the neutral position, engage the clutch by allowing the clutch pedal to come towards you, again release the clutch, then shift into low gear as directed above.

After the car is under way in low gear, release the clutch and shift into

intermediate gear. To do this move the control lever back to the neutral position, then to the right and push it forward as far as it will go (Fig. 4.) Then permit the clutch to engage. In shifting from low to intermediate gear, it is advisable to pause for a moment in the neutral position if there is a tendency of the gears to clash.

After the car is under way in intermediate gear, shift into high gear. To do this, simply release the clutch and then pull the control lever straight back (Fig. 5.) Then permit the clutch to engage.

OPERATION

It is possible when starting the car on level ground to shift from low gear to intermediate gear and from intermediate to high gear at low speeds, and shifting can be done more quietly than at higher speeds. In starting on an incline a higher rate of speed must be attained before shifting gears.

Reversing

To start the car backwards, with the control lever in the neutral position, release the clutch, move the control lever to the left and push it forward as far as it will go. Open the throttle slightly by means of the accelerator pedal or throttle lever and engage the main clutch gradually.

If it should so happen that the transmission gears which mesh to make reverse are in just such positions that the ends of the teeth of one gear come against the ends of the teeth of the other gear, do not force them, but return the transmission control lever to the neutral position, engage the clutch,

again release the clutch and shift into reverse gear as directed.

i \

Fig. 5.

L-iNj

<s>

•*-/

Fig. 6.

Intermediate Gear Neutral to Reverse

to High Gear. Gear.

Shifting into Lower Gear

If, when ascending steep grades or pulling through soft mud roads or deep sand in high gear, the speed of the car is reduced until theenginelabors, shift into intermediate gear. To do this, release the clutch, then push the control lever forward as far as it will go. Then engage the clutch. It is best to allow the car to slow down before making the shift and then, after releas-

ing the clutch, to shift quickly. An experienced driver may find it more satisfactory to shift from high into intermediate gear in the following

manner:

Release the clutch, return the control lever to the neutral position, engage the clutch, at the same time slightly accelerating the engine; then release the clutch again, and instantly shift into intermediate gear. Engage the clutch.

This entire change may be made in less time than it takes to read these

directions by one who becomes familiar with this method. Shifting in this

manner may be accomplished satisfactorily at higher speeds than is possible

OPERATION

when shifting in the usual manner. It is not recommended, however, that the operator attempt to shift from high to intermediate gear in this manner until he has considerable experience in shifting in the ordinary way.

Stopping the Car

First close the throttle and then release the engine clutch. Next return the transmission control lever to the neutral position. The clutch may then be re-engaged. Stop the car by pushing forward on the brake pedal. After the car has been brought to a stop, apply the hand brake by means of the hand brake lever.

Stopping the Engine

After stopping the car and applying the hand brake, move the ignition switch lever down.

TILTING HEAD LAMP REFLECTORS

Cadillac headlamps are provided with highly efficient diffusing lenses which deflect and spread out the rays. To provide for deflecting the rays still further on special occasions when more illumination is desired nearer the car, as in rounding sharp corners and going over the crests of steep grades, the reflectors in the headlamps are pivoted so that they can be

tilted. They are controlled by a button on the instrument board (see Fig.

1) and are tilted down when the button is pushed forward. To raise the

reflectors for illumination of the distant road pull the button out from the

instrument board.

DRIVING SUGGESTIONS

Rules of the Road

Road and traffic laws vary greatly in different localities. It is, therefore,

impossible to set down a complete list of rules which may be followed in all

parts of the country. The following are some of the rules which are universal

in practically all parts of the United States.

In meeting a vehicle going in the opposite direction pass to the right. In passing a vehicle going in the same direction pass to the left. Always stop with the right hand side of the car next to the curb. If it is

necessary to turn the car around to do this, it should be done.

Never turn around or turn off onto another road without making abso-

lutely certain that there is no other vehicle directly behind you.

Never enter upon street car tracks without making sure that there is

no car directly behind you—no matter how sure you feel,

look

and see.

Do not cross street car or steam railroad tracks without making certain

that it is absolutely safe to do so. At any railroad crossing which is on an up grade or which for any reason must be approached very slowly, it is a wise precaution to shift to intermediate gear before crossing as the car can

thereby be accelerated more quickly, if necessary.

OPERATION

In crowded traffic do not apply the brakes suddenly unless it is absolutely necessary. It may be that a following vehicle cannot stop as quickly as you can.

On wet asphalt streets or slippery roads do not apply the brakes suddenly unless it is absolutely necessary. Cadillac four wheel brakes minimize the possibility of skidding under these conditions but their effectiveness

should not induce anyone to drive less carefully.

Always signal vehicles at the rear, before turning. The law requires this

in most cities.

Slow down in passing vehicles going in the opposite direction.

One of the most essential things to remember is that you should never

"take a

chance."

Coasting

To coast on the level, close the throttle and then release the main engine

clutch by pushing forward on the left pedal.

When descending grades a good method is to close the throttle and, with the clutch engaged, allow the engine to do the holding back as much as possible. This saves much wear on the brake band linings. The resistance offered by causing the car to drive the engine when "high gear" or "direct

drive" is engaged is usually sufficient to control the speed. When the engine does not offer sufficient resistance the speed may be checked further by applying the foot brakes.

When it is necessary to descend a very steep grade it is best to engage the intermediate or possibly the low speed gear before commencing the descent, and if the resistance thus obtained is not sufficient, to supplement it by the foot brakes. Bear in mind that the more the resistance of the engine is

used in coasting the longer the brake band linings will last and the longer

the brakes will retain their adjustment.

Do not switch off the ignition when coasting with the car driving the engine. This does not appreciably increase the resistance and is liable to injure the engine. Even with the throttle closed some fuel is admitted to

the cylinders and if this is not burned it condenses on the cylinder walls and washes off the oil by which the pistons are lubricated. In time a sufficient quantity of this unburned fuel would find its way into the crankcase to dilute the oil supply and destroy its lubricating qualities.

DONT'S FOR GENERAL OPERATION

Don't fail to change the engine oil frequently. Don't fail to push forward the carburetor enriching button as soon after

starting as possible.

OPERATION

Don't fill the lubricating system of the engine alone and neglect to lu-

bricate all other parts of the car.

Don't neglect the lubrication of any part of the car.

Don't run the car at sustained high speed when it is new.

Don't permit filling station attendants to remove the strainer in the oil filler before adding oil. This strainer, which is of fine mesh, is necessary to insure against dirt or other foreign matter entering with the oil.

Don't allow the clutch to engage suddenly.

Don't prime the carburetor too much. Don't attempt to shift from neutral to any gear, or from one gear to

another gear without first releasing the clutch.

Don't attempt to shift from the reverse gear to any other gear when the

car is moving.

Don't attempt to shift from any forward gear to the reverse gear when

the car is moving.

Don't attempt to shift from the high gear to the low gear when the car

is moving.

Don't attempt to shift from the intermediate gear to the low gear when the car is moving, unless it is moving very slowly. Ordinarily it is best to stop the car altogether.

Don't switch off the ignition when coasting with the car driving the engine.

Don't push the starter button when the engine is running.

Don't turn the steering gear when the car is standing. This is not only unnecessary but is also bad practice. The front wheels pivot more easily if they are rotating.

Don't fail to investigate any unusual sound which may develop in the

car. The car should be inspected at the service station of a Cadillac dis-

tributor or dealer.

Don't neglect to inspect the level of the acid in the storage battery every

500 miles and add distilled water if necessary. (See page 59.)

Don't turn corners at high speed. Don't neglect to keep the cooling system filled.

Don't drive fast or attempt to stop suddenly on wet pavements. Don't attempt to start the engine with the switch turned off, without

air pressure or without gasoline in the tank.

Don't neglect to keep the tires inflated properly.

Don'f

race

the

engine

when it is not driving

the

car

There

is no

worse

abuse.

OPERATION

CURTAINS

Storage of Curtains

The side curtains for open cars are carried in an envelope provided with cloth partitions to prevent the curtains from rubbing and chafing. All curtains are tagged to facilitate attaching.

In the touring car the curtains are stowed under the front seat. In the phaeton the curtains are stowed in a compartment provided in the back of the front seat and which opens in the tonneau. The roadster has a parcelcompartment just back of the seat in which the curtains are stowed.

Before the curtains are stowed away they should

be dry and clean.

Curtain Fasteners

The curtains are held in place with fasteners which become locked on three sides when snapped into place and must be lifted on the side which is not locked in order to release them. This side is indicated by

a small projection on the fastener as shown by the arrow (Figure 7). This type of fastener cannot be

Fig.

released by lifting it at any other side.

Curtain Fastener

SPEEDOMETER

The speedometer registers the speed at which the car is traveling, the total number of miles traveled, and the trip mileage. The total mileage cannot be reset but the trip mileage can be reset to zero.

An automobile repairman should never be permitted to attempt to adjust or repair the speedometer head or to replace the glass. This work can be done only by men experienced in speedometer work and only with

special machinery and tools.

If the speedometer head is removed, handle it with the same care that you would a fine watch. The speedometer head may easily be damaged by rough handling.

CLOCK

The clock is at the left of the ignition and lighting switch. It has an eight day movement and is wound and set in the same manner as any stem winding watch. The winding and setting stem is on the under side of the speedometer just back of the instrument board.

OPERATION

TIRE AIR PRESSURES

The following air pressures are recommended for the 33" x 5" tires

which are standard on V-63 Cadillac cars.

Body Style

Touring Phaeton Roadster Sedan Imperial Sedan Suburban Imperial Suburban 2-passenger Coupe

5-passenger Coupe Limousine Town Brougham

With Driver Only

Front

15 lbs.

Rear

50 lbs. 45 45 50

50 55 55 45 50 55 50

(( (( ((

((

{(

(( ((

With Full Load

Front

45 lbs.

Rear

65 lbs 60 " 50 " 65 "

65 " 70 " 70 " 50 "

60 "

70 "

65 "

Ftg.S

Tire Valve Cap

TIRE VALVE CAPS

The caps which fit over the tire valve stems on some makes of tires are combination dust and valve caps.

They can be removed or replaced without screwing the cap the entire length of the thread on the stem.

To install one of these tire valve caps, place the cap over the valve stem and turn it a few turns to the right to engage the thread in the sliding nut inside the cap. (See Fig. 8.) If the sliding nut is too far inside the cap to be reached by the valve stem, shake it down by tapping the bottom of the cap on some solid object. When the valve stem has been

started in the sliding nut push the cap down as far as it will go. Turn the cap to the right until it locks tightly.

To remove a tire valve cap turn^it two or three turns to the left. This loosens the sliding nut inside the cap. Next pull the cap up as far as it will go. Then remove the cap by unscrewing it the rest of the way.

OPERATION

DEMOUNTABLE RIMS

Demounting Rim with Tire

Jack up the axle until the wheel is free from the ground. Then remove

the valve cap and the valve stem clamping nut. Loosen the eight rim

clamping nuts with the brace wrench furnished with the tool kit. Turn each clamp so that the lug is away from the rim and hold it in this position by tightening the nut slightly with your fingers. Turn the wheel so that the valve is at the top and pull the bottom of the rim towards you until it clears the wheel. The rim with tire can then be removed by lifting it straight up.

Mounting Rim with Tire

If the rim you are mounting has no split clamping ring, take the one from the rim removed. Turn the wheel so that the hole for the valve stem is at the top. Hold the rim so that the valve stem is at the top and so that

the rim latch and the clamping ring are towards you. Insert the valve stem and then push the bottom of the rim into place.

Turn each clamp to its original position and turn the clamping ring so that the split in the ring comes directly under one of the clamps. Tighten each clamping nut slightly. Then continue around the wheel, tightening each nut firmly. Screw on the valve stem clamping nut and the valve cap.

Fig. 9. Pig- 10.

Removing Tire from Rim Removing Tire from Rim,

First Position. Second Position.

the

rim

does not

run

true,

mark the part that runs "out" from the face of the wheel. Then slightly loosen the nuts diametrically opposite this part and tighten the nuts at the marked part. Proceed in this manner until the rim does run true.

Removing Tire from Rim

Caution—Do

not

attempt

remove

a tire from a

demountable

rim with-

out first

completely deflating

the tire. Serious

personal

injury may result if

this is

attempted.

OPERATION

The tire may be removed without removing the rim from the wheel.

Deflate the

tire.

Then open the lock with the pointed end of the tire tool

or with a screw-driver.

Raise one end of the ring with the tool as shown (Figure 9) until the

lug is clear of the slot in the rim.

Raise the end of the ring further and force the lug out over the edge of

the rim. (Figure 10.)

Start at the end of the ring, which is out of the groove, and remove the entire ring from the rim. (Figure 11.) (See note.)

Turn the wheel until the valve stem is at the top, and pull the lower part of the tire towards you until it is clear of the

rim. The tire may then be removed from the rim by lifting it straight up.

Note—In removing the ring from the rim, care should be taken to avoid opening the ring beyond its elastic limit. When the ring is free from the rim, the ends should overlap from Yi to 1½ inches,

which they will do if the ring has not been stretched in removal.

Fig. 11.

Removing Tire from Rim,

Third Position.

If the ends of the ring do not overlap they should be closed together before replacing. If this is not done there is a possibility of the lock failing to engage the lugs on the ends of the ring. This might later be the cause of an accident.

Fig. 12.

Placing Tire on Rim,

First Position.

Fig. IS.

Placing Tire on Rim,

Second Position.

Placing Tire on Rim

If the demountable rim is on the wheel, jack up the axle and turn the

wheel until the hole for the valve is at the top.

OPERATION

Hold the tire so that the valve stem is at the top and insert the valve stem in the valve stem hole in the rim and wheel. Then push the bottom of the tire into place.

Insert one end of the locking ring in the slot in the rim. Then with the tool as a lever, force the tire back far enough to allow the ring to go on easily. (Figure

12.) Starting at the end of the ring which

is inserted in the slot in the rim, force the remainder of the ring into place by using the tire tool as pliers. (Figure 13.)

Insert the flat end of the tool between the rim and the ring and turn the tool up edgewise. (Figure 14.) This will lift the

loose end of the ring and force it into place.

Draw the ends of the locking ring

together with the tool. (Figure 15.)

Then swing the lock into place.

Then inflate the tire. (See under

"Tire Air Compressor," page

and "Tire

Air Pressures," page 17.)

If the demountable rim is not attached to a wheel, lay the rim with the tire flat on the ground when removing or replacing a tire.

TIRE HOLD

The tire holder is designed to carry two standard size tires inflated on

rims.

To remove the tire with rim, remove the cap from the lock at the center

of the clamp and unlock it. Then unscrew the clamp as far as it will go.

The tire then may be removed.

To put a tire on the holder proceed in the reverse manner.

When mounting two tires on the tire holder, the clamping or locking rings should face each other to prevent theft of the tires by removing them from the rims. If mounting one tire on the tire holder, the clamping or locking ring should face to the front or toward the body.

Fig. 14-

Placing Tire on Rim.

Third Position.

Fig. 15.

Placing

Tire on Rim,

Fourth

Position.

OPERATION

Care should be exercised not to permit the inner tire to strike the body

of the car when removing or replacing it.

COLD WEATHER SUGGESTIONS

STARTING THE ENGINE

Manipulation of Carburetor Enriching Button

Pull back the carburetor enriching button before attempting to start the engine in cold weather, but immediately the engine commences to run under its own power push the button as far forward as possible without causing the engine to stop or slow down materially and as far forward as it goes as soon as the engine is warm enough to permit it.

Priming the Carburetor

extremely

cold weather, if the engine is not started in 30 seconds with the carburetor enriching button pulled back, remove the foot from the starter button. This will stop the cranking operation. Now open and close the throttle once or twice with the hand throttle or the foot accelerator. Do

not

open and close the throttle more than twice. Opening and closing the throttle operates the throttle pump of the carburetor. This raises the level of the gasoline in the carburetor, thereby priming it. If the throttle is opened and closed more than twice, gasoline is forced out of the carburetor.

Position for Spark

Lever

Except in extremely cold weather the spark lever should be placed about one-third the way down from the "Advance" position when starting. In extremely cold weather, it should

in the "Advance" position when starting. (If the engine is to be cranked by hand, the spark lever should be placed at the "Retard" position.)

It is the practice of some drivers to place the spark lever at the "Retard" position when starting the engine. While this is the proper position for the spark lever if the

engine is

to be hand cranked, there is

reason for retarding the spark when the engine is electrically cranked and starting is facilitated if the spark lever is advanced. In extremely cold weather there is no reason why the spark lever cannot be placed in the "Advance" position if the engine be electrically cranked and a quicker start is assured if this is done. The following will explain why it is possible to fully advance the spark lever at such times:

OPERATION

The mixture in a cold engine does not burn as rapidly, nor is there so much energy in it, as when the engine is warmer and the fuel is better vaporized. When the engine is cold a large percentage of the heat of each explosion is instantly dissipated by reason of the cold combustion chambers and cylinder walls, the result being that an explosion which in a hot engine would occur early enough and have energy enough to produce a "spark knock" or "back kick," occurs so much later and is so much less intense,

that neither of these results is produced.

It is best to have the spark lever in the fully advanced position for cold

weather starting for the following reasons:

As explained before, a cold mixture ignites much more slowly than a hot mixture. A cold, slow-burning mixture, if ignited on top dead center on account of the spark being in the retarded position, may burn through the

power stroke, through the exhaust stroke and may be still burning in the combustion chamber when the inlet valve is opened to draw in another charge. When this happens, the flame sets fire to the incoming charge, igniting the mixture in the intake pipe and carburetor, producing a "pop back" in the carburetor. The possibility of this happening is very much less if ignition is started earlier by placing the spark lever in the fully advanced position.

Position for Throttle Lever

In winter weather the throttle lever should be opened only slightly for starting. Many drivers make a practice of opening the throttle wide or nearly so immediately the engine is started and after shifting the transmission into gear. The full suction of each piston through the carburetor

under these conditions causes the auxiliary air valve in the carburetor to open wide, allowing a large volume of cold air to rush into the carburetor.

The proportion of air to gasoline drawn in under these conditions ia practically the same as when the engine is hotter, but as only a portion of the gasoline drawn in is vaporized, and as only the vaporized portion burns, the proportion of air to gasoline burned is greater than when the engine is warmer, thus producing a "lean" mixture. A "lean" mixture is slow buring, whether it is warm or hot, and a cold "lean" mixture is particularly slow burning. Thus if the throttle is opened suddenly before the engine is thoroughly warm, the cold "lean" mixture resulting, burns so slowly that a

"pop back" in the carburetor is almost sure to occur.

OPERATION

Uae

of Starter Button

Do not press the

starter

button while the engine is running.

In extremely cold weather, when the car has been standing long enough to become thoroughly chilled, it is a good plan to release the clutch before pressing down the starter button and to hold the clutch pedal down during the cranking operation. If this is not done, the starter is called upon to turn the jackshaft in the transmission in addition to cranking the engine. While at ordinary temperatures the additional energy required is almost negligible, in extremely cold weather the lubricant in the transmission may offer enough resistance to the transmission gears to increase considerably the demand upon the battery. If the habit is formed of regularly holding the clutch pedal down during the cranking operation one will not be so likely to neglect to do so during cold weather.

ANTI-FREEZING SOLUTIONS

In cold weather a good anti-freezing solution should be used. A solution of commercial glycerine and water is recommended of the correct

proportion for the temperature experienced. The following are the freezing

temperatures of glycerine and water solutions:

Glycerine

(% by volume)

35% 40% 45% 50%

55%

60%

Water

(% by volume)

65% 60% 55% 50% 45%

40%

Freezing Temperature

(degrees Fahr.)

+10°

+6°

+3°

0° —2° —4°

Do not use a solution containing calcium chloride, as it is injurious to

the metal parts of the cooling system.

The radiator condenser also makes it possible to use with safety an antifreezing solution of denatured or wood alcohol and water. The following are the freezing temperatures of denatured alcohol and water solutions.

enatured Alcohol

(% by volume)

20% 30% 40% 50%

Water

(% by volume)

80% 70% 60%

50%

Specific Gravity

Freezing Temperature (Hydrometer

(degrees Fahr.) reading)

+13° .974 — 3° .964 —20° .953 —34° .936

24 OPERATION

It is a good plan to draw out a sample of the solution occasionally and to test its specific gravity with a hydrometer graduated between the limits of the above table.

Before filling the cooling system with anti-freezing solution, the condenser should be drained by removing the plug "R", Fig. 22. If water is left in the condenser at this time, it may freeze before enough alcohol passes over

from the radiator to lower its freezing temperature.

The capacity of the cooling system is five and one-quarter gallons. The condenser should contain an additional three quarts, making a total of six

gallons.

Caution—Do not use water alone

the cooling

system during

freezing

weather.

Use a good anti-freezing solution. Water will freeze even though the engine

run continuously.

ADDITIONAL COLD WEATHER SUGGESTIONS

Starting in Intermediate or High Gear

Starting in intermediate or high gear should not be done at any time, but this is particularly unfair to a cold engine, as it necessitates a further opening of the throttle than is necessary when starting on low gear, with the probability of a "pop back" in the carburetor.

Cold Test of Engine Oil

Use oil having a low cold test. In other words, use oil which flows freely

at low temperature. (See under "Lubricants," page 31.)

Frequent Changing of Oil

"Water and gasoline may accumulate in the crank case of the engine during cold weather. It is necessary, therefore, to drain the oil frequently and replace it. (See under "Replace Engine Oil Frequently During Cold Weather," page 34.) If water and gasoline are permitted to accumulate in the crank case, serious damage to the engine may result.

OPERATION

Strainers in Gasoline System

It may be found necessary to remove the strainers in the gasoline line more frequently during cold weather in order to prevent an accumulation of water at these points which would freeze and prevent the gasoline from flowing to the carburetor. (See under "Settling Chambers and Strainers," page 50.)

OPERATION OF ENGINE

General Principle

The production of power by the engine may be described briefly as follows:

Gasoline is forced by air pressure from the tank to the carburetor. At the carburetor the gasoline is mixed with air in the proper proportion, forming an explosive vapor or gas. The gas is drawn through the intake manifold and inlet valves into the cylinders of the engine, where it is com-

pressed and ignited by electric sparks, the pressure of the resulting explosions producing the power.

The quantity of gas supplied to the engine is regulated by a throttle valve at the carburetor which is operated by means of the throttle lever

at the steering wheel or by the accelerator button at the right of the brake pedal.

Four'Cycle Engine

The engine is of the four-cycle type, that is, there are four movements

or strokes of each piston and two revolutions of the flywheel to complete each power producing stroke. The four strokes of the cycle each have a different function and follow one another in the same order as follows:

Suction Stroke. The suction stroke commences with the piston at its highest point in the cylinder and with the inlet and exhaust valves closed. Immediately the piston starts to descend the inlet valve opens and through this valve a charge of gas from the carburetor is drawn into the space above the piston.

Compression

Stroke. As the piston starts upward again after completing

the suction stroke, the inlet valve closes. As there is then no escape for the gas in the cylinder, it is compressed, the maximum compression being reached when the piston is at the top of its stroke.

Power Stroke. At the completion of the compression stroke, the spark

takes place at the spark plug, igniting the compressed charge of gas. The

heat resulting from the rapid combustion causes the pressure of the con-

fined gas to rise almost instantaneously to several times its pressure

OPERATION

before the explosion. This pressure exerted on the piston forces down the piston and produces the impulse which is transmitted by the connecting rod to the crankshaft, causing it to rotate.

Exhaust Stroke. Just before the piston reaches the end of the power stroke, the exhaust valve opens. It remains open as the piston travels upward again on the exhaust stroke, driving the burned gas out from the cylinders. By the time the piston has reached its highest point it has forced out the burned gas and the exhaust valve closes. Having completed the four strokes, the piston is now ready to draw in a new charge and to repeat the cycle.

The same cycle of events takes place in all of the cylinders but no two pistons are at the same point in the cycle at the'same time. In the Cadillac

eight cylinder V-type engine, the impulses in the eight cylinders are so timed that a power stroke is begun every quarter turn of the crankshaft. In other words, the crankshaft receives four overlapping impulses every revolution. The order in which the impulses take place

shown in Figure

16.

Fig.

16.

Firing

Order

Automatic Spark Control

When each piston is at its highest position in the cylinder is, of course, the time when the charge is at its greatest compression, or, in other words when the gas is "jammed in the tightest." Ignition occurring exactly at this instant produces a much more forceful explosion than if it occurred at a time when the charge was not so tightly compressed.

If the charge were ignited the instant the contact is made in the ignition timer, regardless of the speed of the engine, the spark could be set permanently in one position and would not require changing. But a certain amount of time elapses from the instant the circuit is closed at the ignition timer until the charge is ignited in the cylinder. While this time is but the

OPERATION

merest fraction of a second, in fact, almost infinitesimal, yet it is time just the same and must be taken into account when dealing with such a rapidly

acting mechanism as an automobile engine.

The lapse of time required to ignite the charge is always the same regardless of the speed of the engine and pistons. You will realize that when the engine is running, say 3000 R. P. M., the pistons are traveling many times as fast as they do when it is running only 300 R. P. M. When the engine is running 3000 R. P. M., it is necessary therefore to start the ignition process earlier.

In the Cadillac this is accomplished by means of a ring governor located directly under the ignition timer. As the speed of the engine increases, the ring in the governor assumes a position more nearly horizontal, forcing the timer cam slightly ahead on the shaft by which it is driven. This causes the timer contact points to break earlier, thereby starting the ignition process earlier in relation to the positions of the pistons. When the engine slows down, the ring in the governor assumes a position more nearly vertical, forcing the cam back on the shaft by which it is driven, causing the contact points to break later and thereby starting the ignition process later in the strokes of the pistons.

Manual Spark Control

The automatic control takes care of the spark position for all ordinary driving. A spark lever is provided, however, by which the ignition timing may be still further advanced or retarded.

Ordinarily the spark lever should be carried about one-third the way down from the "Advance" position. To get the best results, however, it should be retarded further for extremely

low

speeds and advanced further for

extremely high

speeds.

The car should be driven at all times with the great-

est possible spark advance permitted by the speed of the engine.

Advancing the spark too far for given engine speeds will usually cause a slight pounding noise, which is sometimes not noticed by the beginner, as it is usually but slight owing to the substantial character of the crankshaft and bearings.

When starting the engine, place the spark about one-third the way down from the "Advance" position, except during extremely cold weather when it should be placed at the "Advance" position. If the engine should be cranked

by hand, the lever should be placed at the "Retard" position. If this caution is not observed a "back kick" may occur, probably resulting in personal injury.

OPERATION

WINDSHIELD POSITIONS

Under ordinary conditions, sufficient ventilation in the front compartment is provided by the cowl ventilator. Additional ventilation for warmer weather is provided for by the adjustable upper and lower sections of the windshield.

Open Cars

To secure greater ventilation in the front compartment of open cars, the lower section of the windshield should be tilted in. The thumb screws half way up the windshield standards must be loosened before the lower section can be moved and should be tightened afterwards. If still greater ventilation is desired, the upper section may be tilted toward the driver.

The rubber strip between the windshield glasses must be removed before either the upper or lower section of the shield is tilted inward.

Closed Cars

To secure greater ventilation in the front compartment of closed cars, the upper edge of the lower section of the windshield should be tilted outward. To do this, loosen the thumb screws at the sides, lift the handles until the lower edge clears the weather strip on the cowl, and then push outward. Tighten the thumb screws when the windshield is in the open position.

Inclement Weather

The normal position of the windshield for inclement weather is with

the upper and lower sections closed, and with the removable rubber strip

between the glasses. If rain or snow should freeze on the glass, making it impossible to clean it with the windshield wiper, the upper section may be

tilted out at a slight angle. This is known as the "rain vision" position.

FOOT REST FOR FOOT THROTTLE

The foot rest for the foot throttle can be adjusted to any height which the driver finds most convenient. To raise the foot rest first loosen the lock nut on the foot rest support under the toe board. Then turn the nut above the toe board clockwise until the desired height is obtained. Tighten the nut under the toe board. To lower the foot rest, proceed in the same manner but turn the nut counter-clockwise.

TOOL BOX

A compartment for tools is provided in the right hand dust shield. The

hinged door of the compartment forms a part of the dust shield and is locked with the switch key. To open the tool box door insert the switch key and turn the nickel plated handle to the right. Do not attempt to turn the key in the lock. Insertion of the key unlocks the handle.

LUBRICATION

Part II

LUBRICATION

IMPORTANCE OF LUBRICATION

There is no one thing which is the primary cause of more trouble and the cause of more expense in maintenance to the mechanism of an auto- •

mobile than insufficient lubrication. I

All moving parts of the Cadillac car are manufactured with an unusual I degree of accuracy. In order to maintain the splendid running qualities \ of the car, it becomes necessary systematically to introduce suitable lubri- j cants between surfaces which move in contact with one another. !

It should be

borne

in mind constantly that where one part

moves

upon or in \

contact

with

another

friction is

created.

Friction means

wear,

and the wear will S

be of the metal itself unless

there

is oil. The use of

too

much oil is

better

than }

too little,

but

just

enough

best.

Proper lubrication not only largely prevents the wearing of the parts, I

but it makes the car run more easily, consequently with less expense for I

fuel and makes its operation easier in every way.

The oiling diagram shown on page 36 indicates the more important

points which require attention. But do not stop at these. Notice the j

numerous little places where there are moving parts, such as the yokes on i the ends of various brake rod connections, etc. A few drops of oil on these occasionally will make them work more smoothly.

Judicious lubrication is one of the greatest essentials to the satisfactory running and the long life of the motor car. Therefore, lubricate, and lubricate judiciously.

LUBRICATION

LUBRICANTS

There are many grades of oils. There are none too good. Naturally, we have experimented a great deal with numerous lubricants to determine which are best adapted for the various parts of the Cadillac car. It is not always an easy matter for users to obtain suitable lubricants. The constant demand made upon us by Cadillac users has induced us to provide suitable lubricants which may be obtained from Cadillac distributors or dealers.

Engine Oil

Cadillac Engine Oil is recommended and may be used both summer and winter. If some other oil is preferred our Technical Department will mail a complete up-to-date list of tested and approved oils on request.

The oil used should be a filtered one and not an acid or alkali treated oil.

We cannot hold ourselves responsible for damage resulting from the use

of oil not suited to the Cadillac engine.

Rear Axle and Transmission Lubricant

Cadillac Rear Axle and Transmission Lubricant is recommended for the

the rear axle and transmission or in its absence a mixture of steam cylinder

oil and a small amount of cup grease mixed to such a consistency that the mixture flows easily at temperatures from 60° to 70° Fahrenheit.

Gun Grease

Cadillac Gun Grease is recommended for use in the grease gun or, in its

absence, number three cup grease.

Distributor Grease

Cadillac Distributor Grease is recommended for the Distributor.

Universal Joint Grease

Cadillac Universal Joint Grease is recommended for the universal joints

on the drive shaft or, in its absence, number three fibre grease.

Steering Gear Lubricant

A mixture consisting of seventy-five per cent of Cadillac Rear Axle and Transmission Lubricant and twenty-five per cent Cadillac Gun Grease or or number one cup grease is recommended for the steering gear.

LUBRICATION

ENGINE LUBRICATION

Lubricating System

The lubrication of the engine is by oil under pressure. A supply of oil is carried in the oil pan. Oil is drawn from the oil pan by an oil pump and forced to the main engine bearings.

The connecting rod bearings on the crank shaft are lubricated by oil from the main bearings forced through holes drilled in the crank shaft. A hole drilled in the forward end of the crankshaft communicates with a hole drilled in the crankshaft sprocket through which oil is supplied to the camshaft driving chain. The cylinders are lubricated by oil thrown from the lower ends of the connecting rods.

The pressure of the oil is regulated by pressure regulator (Figure 17), containing a valve under spring tension. When the pressure is reached for which the valve is set, the valve is forced open and the oil overflows past the valve. A small hole drilled in the regulator housing allows oil to by-pass the valve when the valve is seated. Oil flowing through the bypass and oil forced past the valve is carried to the camshaft bearings, power pressure pump in the gasoline system and the camshaft sprockets and chains through a hole drilled in the camshaft.

There is one gauge and one indicator in the lubricating system. The pressure gauge is located on the instrument board and indicates the pressure of the oil. The indicator is attached to the upper cover of the crank

case near the carburetor and indicates the level of the oil in the engine.

Filling Lubricating System

An oil level indicator on the engine is for the purpose of indicating when the supply of engine oil is low and when a sufficient amount has been added. The indicator is between the cylinder blocks and is under the intake manifold, on the right hand side.

Oil should be added whenever the red ball of the indicator is down to

the line marked "Fill." Do not risk running the engine after the red ball has reached the line marked "Fill." If, through oversight, the red ball should reach the line marked "Empty" the engine should be stopped imme-

diately ,and supplied with oil. The oil filler is just back of the radiator on the right

side.

(See Figure 17.)

Use only oil which is suitable (see under "Lubricants," page 31), and be certain that the oil is free from dirt or lint before pouring it into the engine.

LUBRICATION

When the red ball of the indicator is at "Full" the engine should con-

tain seven quarts of oil.

Fig.

17.

Oil

Filler,

Pressure

Regulator,

Level Indicator and Drain

Plug.

Replace Engine Oil

At the end of each 500 miles of travel remove the drain plug from the engine oil pan (see Figure 17). After the oil has drained out replace the plug and through the oil filler on the housing just back of the fan, add seven quarts of fresh engine oil (see under "Replace Engine Oil Frequently During

Cold Weather," page 34). A socket wrench with a long handle is supplied with the tool equipment to facilitate the removal and replacement of the

drain plug.

At the end of the first 1,000 miles of travel, at the end of the next 3,000 miles of travel and at the end of every 4,000 miles of travel thereafter, drain the oil pan as directed in the preceding paragraph, replace the plug and

through the filler add a mixture consisting of three quarts of kerosene oil and one quart of engine oil. The mixture must be free from dirt and lint.

Run the engine at a speed of between 600 and 1,000 revolutions per minute

for the period of one minute. Then drain the oil pan, remove it and the screen from the engine and thoroughly clean the oil pan and screen. Do not fail to add seven quarts of fresh engine oil after replacing the oil pan.

LUBRICATION

After cleaning the lubricating system with a mixture of kerosene and engine oil it is a good plan to clean the valve and seat of the pressure regulator. The regulator is located just back of the right hand block of cylinders. The valve can be removed after removing the regulator cover by unscrewing it. It is important also to make certain that the small by-pass hole by which oil is permitted to escape when the regulator valve is closed, is clean and free from any obstruction.

Do not use waste in cleaning the regulator valve or its seat. Use cloth free from lint.

Caution:—Do not fail to

replace

the engine oil as frequently as

suggested.

Replace Engine Oil Frequently During Cold Weather

The mileages given under "Replace Engine Oil" at which engine oil should be replaced and the oil pan and screen cleaned are those at which this work should be done during warm weather.

During cold weather water and gasoline may accumulate in the crankcase of the engine. It is necessary, therefore, to drain the oil pan and clean

the oil pan and 'screen much more frequently than during warm weather.

The frequency with which it is necessary to do this depends very largely

upon the manner in which the car is driven. In cases where the car is driven short distances only and frequent stops are made so that the engine base and the oil remain cold it will be necessary to drain the oil pan and to clean

the oil pan and screen much more frequently than in cases where the car

is driven for longer distances with fewer stops, so that the engine base

becomes thoroughly warmed.

If the car is constantly making short trips in cold weather the oil should be drained every 350 miles of travel or once a week and the oil pan and screen cleaned once a month.

Unless

the

oil is drained out and the oil pan and

screen

are cleaned frequently

cold

weather,

serious damage to the engine may result, particularly on cars in

short trip

service.

Oil Pressure

The pressure indicated by the oil gauge on the instrument board varies

with the speed and temperature of the engine and the viscosity of the oil.

When the engine is warm and supplied with fresh Cadillac Engine Oil or oil of approximately the same viscosity, the pressure as indicated by the gauge should be from five to seven pounds when the engine is idling. (When idling the engine should run at approximately 300 revolutions per minute, if the

LUBRICATION

throttle stop-screw at the carburetor is properly adjusted.) At higher speeds a higher pressure should be indicated and at lower speeds, a lower pressure. Before the engine has become warm, higher pressures will be

indicated at given speeds. In other words, maximum pressures will be indicated at given speeds when the engine is cold and the oil is fresh; mini-

mum pressures, when the engine is hot and the oil becomes thin from use.

Practically all engine lubricating oils become less viscous from use even

under normal conditions. Running the engine too long with the carburetor enriching button pulled back will cause the oil to be thinned more rapidly

due to the condensation of gasoline from the rich mixture.

Caution

If when starting the engine after replacing the oil it is found that the pressure gauge does not register pressure, stop the engine immediately and prime the oil pump. This may be done by disconnecting, at its upper end, the oil pipe running from the engine around the right hand side of the dash, and forcing clean engine oil into the pipe. Connect the pipe and tighten the union before starting the engine.

Do not continue to run the engine if, as a result of

law

viscosity of the oil,

or other

cause,

pressure

is not indicated on

the gauge

when

the

engine is running.

(See

under "Replace Engine Oil," page S3.)

LUBRICATION

GENERAL LUBRICATION

It is manifestly impossible to give exact directions in every instance as

to just how frequently each individual point should be oiled or exactly how

much lubricant should be applied. In the following directions this is given approximately, based on average use. The numbers refer to Fig. 18.

With the tool equipment of each car is packed a lubrication chart, with

a schedule for the lubrication of the car. This is intended to be hung in

the garage to serve as a reminder.

EVERY 125 MILES

Engine: 27

At every 125 miles, or oftener, determine the quantity of oil in the engine and add oil if required (see under "Filling Lubricating System," page 32, and under "Replace Engine Oil," page 33).

EVERY 500 MILES

Grease Gun Connections: G

Points "G" should be lubricated with the grease gun at every 500 miles of travel. Cadillac Gun Grease or No. 3 cup grease is recommended.

Springs: 1, 2, 12, 16, 26

It is recommended that the springs be lubricated every 500 miles by painting the edges and ends of the leaves with engine oil. A small, stiff brush should be used. After applying the oil, the car should not be washed until it has been driven far enough to allow the lubricant to work in between the leaves. Do not open the leaves and insert lubricant.

Replace Engine Oil

Replace the engine oil at the end of every 500 miles of travel. (See under "Replace Engine Oil" Page 33 and "Replace Engine Oil Frequently During Cold Weather," page 34.)

Water in Storage Battery: 5

Every five hundred miles or at least every two weeks inspect the level of the acid in the storage battery and add distilled water if the level is low.

(See under "Adding Water to Storage Battery," page 59.)

EVERY 1000 MILES

Oil Cups: O

A few drops of engine oil should be applied at points "0" every 1,000 miles.

LUBRICATION

Universal Joints: 4, 19

Fill the forward and rear universal joints on the drive shaft between the transmission and rear axle with Cadillac Universal Joint Grease every 1,000 miles.

A connection is furnished with the grease gun which fits the filling

holes.

The forward joint is covered by a cylindrical shield shown at 19, Fig.

18,

to prevent grease from being thrown onto the under side of the floor. To fill the joint it is necessary first to detach the shield from the transmission case and to slide it back over the drive shaft. This may be done after loosening the two screws which hold the shield and turning the shield through a small arc in a counter-clockwise direction.

Generator Oil Cups: 22, 23

These oil cups conduct lubricant to the forward and rear bearings on the armature shaft of the motor generator. A few drops of engine oil should be applied every 1,000 miles.

Oil Holes at Steering Wheel: 6, 7

A few drops of engine oil should be applied every 1,000 miles. The oil

hole at the upper end of the steering column is closed by a screw plug, which

must be removed before the oil can be applied.

Engine Rear Supports: 9, 21

There are felt wicks in the frame brackets to which the engine supports are bolted. Engine oil should be applied at these points every 1,000 miles of travel or oftener if necessary.

Clean Engine Lubricating System

At the end of the first 1,000 miles of travel, at the end of the next 3,000 miles of travel, and at the end of every 4,000 miles of travel thereafter, clean the lubricating system and the oil pan and screen. (See under "Replace Engine Oil" page 33 and "Replace Engine Oil Frequently During Cold Weather," page 34.)

EVERY 2000 MILES

Transmission: 20

The transmission should contain sufficient lubricant to bring it up to the level of the filling hole at the right hand side. The level should be inspected every 2,000 miles and lubricant added if necessary. Cadillac Rear Axle and Transmission Lubricant is recommended.

Rear Axle: 17

The rear axle should contain enough lubricant to bring it up to the level of the filling hole in the rear cover plate. The level should be inspected every 2,000 miles and lubricant added if necessary. Cadillac Rear Axle and Transmission Lubricant is recommended.

LUBRICATION

Timer and Distributor: 25

Every 2,000 miles remove the small breather at the rear of the timerdistributor housing by unscrewing it and pack Cadillac Distributor Grease around the gears by which the timer and distributor are driven.

Valve Stems: 11, 24

Apply engine oil to the valve stems and cam slides every 2,000 miles. This may be done by lifting the valve compartment covers and inserting the spout of the oil can.

Steering Gear: 10

The steering gear should be lubricated every 2,000 miles by applying the grease gun to the connection at "A", Fig. 26. Lubricant made by mixing 75 percent of Cadillac Rear Axle and Transmission Lubricant with 25 percent of Cadillac Gun Grease or No. 1 cup grease is recommended. In order to determine when sufficient grease has been injected, remove the screw plug from the hole in the steering column just below the steering wheel and inject grease with the gun until it flows from this hole.

Speedometer Flexible Drive Shaft

The

flexible

shaft by which the speedometer is driven is carried in a flexible casing. The shaft should be removed from the casing and lubricated at the end of every 2,000 miles of travel. Cadillac cup grease is recommended.

Do not under any circumstances attempt to lubricate the speedometer head. Any parts in the head which require lubrication are amply supplied when the head is assembled.

EVERY 4000 MILES

Clutch Thrust Bearing: 8

Every 4,000 miles remove the cover plate shown at

"8."

With the engine not running reach in and turn the clutch thrust bearing so that the small filler screw is at the top. Remove the screw with a screw driver. Care must be exercised not to drop the screw into the clutch case.

A small connection for the grease gun is furnished with the tool kit.

Screw this into the threaded hole from which the filler screw was removed

and attach the grease gun.

Cadillac Rear Axle and Transmission Lubricant is recommended.

Wheels: 3, 14, 18, 28

Front Brake Trunnions IS, 29

Every 4,000 miles, or every six months if the car is driven but little, all the wheels should be removed (see under "Wheels" page 64) and the bearings thoroughly cleaned in either gasoline or kerosene and examined. The bearings should be lubricated with a thin grease. Cadillac Gun Grease is recommended. Do not use heavy grease, as it will roll away from the path of the rollers and will not return.

LUBRICATION

Every 4,000 miles, while the front wheels are removed for lubricating, the brake operating trunnions inside the front wheel brake drums should also be lubricated as follows:

Remove the screw plug "A", Fig. 19,

(shown at 15 and

Fig.

18) and replace it with the grease gun connection furnished in the tool kit. Attach the grease gun

and inject grease just until it begins to appear around the trunnion bearing inside the drum. Do not inject too much grease. Remove the grease gun connection and replace the screw plug. Before replacing the wheel be sure and wipe off any grease appearing around the trunnion bearing. Do not inject any grease at "A" except when the wheel is off and the application of too much grease can be positively

avoided.

Pig. 19. Front Wheel Brake

Lubricating Plug.

Clean Engine Lubricating System

At the end of every 4,000 miles of travel clean the engine lubricating system and the oil pan and screen. (See under "Replace Engine Oil" page 33 and "Replace Engine Oil Frequently During Cold Weather," page 34.)

Horn:

The horn is lubricated when assembled and does not require further lubrication but the commutator of the horn should be inspected every 4,000 miles and cleaned if necessary. To do this remove the motor shell from the horn. (On cars with the horn mounted on the fanshaft housing, the horn with bracket must be removed from the engine before the motor shell can be removed from the horn). If the commutator appears to be dirty clean it with a dry cloth. This should be done with the horn motor running so

that the commutator will be cleaned on all sides. Do not attempt to

polish the commutator or brushes with oil or vaseline. These parts are

designed to run dry.

Replace Transmission Lubricant: 20

At the end of every 4,000 miles of travel remove the drain plug from the under side of the transmission case and drain out all of the lubricant. Refill with two quarts of suitable lubricant. Cadillac Rear Axle and Transmission lubricant is recommended. The filler is shown at "20," Fig. 18.

Replace Rear Axle Lubricant: 17

At the end of every

5,000

miles of travel remove the drain plug from

LUBRICATION

the axle and drain out all of the lubricant. Refill with 5 quarts of suitable lubricant. Cadillac Rear Axle and Transmission Lubricant is recommended. The filler is shown at "17," Fig. 18.

ADDITIONAL

In addition to the places specially mentioned, note carefully and oil all of the small connections and joints throughout the car, such as the various brake rod connections and joints in the brake mechanism.

Remember that wherever one part moves in contact with another

wear will be reduced to the minimum by lubrication.

GENERAL CARE

Part III

GENERAL CARE 45

TIRES

Each tire maker publishes a booklet with instructions for care and repair of tires. Every motorist should provide himself with one of these and thoroughly familiarize himself with the contents. We give here suggestions that apply to pneumatic tires in general.

Probably 75% of so-called "tire trouble" is the result of misuse. We give here some suggestions regarding the more important points of the care of tires.

Result of Under-Inflation

Under-inflation causes a tire to flatten out under load. This causes the side walls to bend sharply as the tire revolves. The result is the breaking of the side walls. An under-inflated tire is susceptible to bruise, broken cords and blow-out.

Result of Improperly Aligned Front Wheels

Running a car with the front wheels out of alignment causes rapid tread wear. This usually affects both tires similarly, although sometimes only one tire is affected. An incorrect adjustment of the front axle parallel rod or a bent steering arm is responsible for the condition. Unless the wheels are in proper alignment the treads of the front tires will wear away in a remarkably short time.

Neglect of Small Cuts

If cuts extending to the cords are neglected deterioration and blistering of the tire tread is the result. It is unnecessary to remove a tire to treat small cuts of this nature. Tire companies furnish a plastic compound for filling cuts. This prevents moisture and dirt from getting in. If a cut is large, it should be vulcanized at once.

Result of Improperly Adjusted Tire Chains

Tires are sometimes badly damaged through the use of tire chains which are incorrectly adjusted or which are fastened to the spokes of the wheel holding the chains tightly in place.

The least injury results when chains are applied loosely leaving play enough to permit them to work around. The wear on the tire is thus distributed evenly. Probably the greatest amount of injury comes from using chains unnecessarily on paved streets.

Result of Sudden Application of the Brakes

The sudden application of the brakes resulting in sliding the wheels

causes the treads to wear away in spots. A tire will give away very rapidly under this severe treatment.

GENERAL CARE

Additional Suggestions

The tires are constructed for the purpose of carrying up to certain maximum loads and no more. It should be realized that overloading a car beyond the intended carrying capacity is sure to materially shorten the life of

the tires.

Do not turn corners or run over sharp obstructions, like car tracks, at a high rate of speed. Such practice is sure to strain or possibly break the fabric, with the result that the further life of the tires will be limited. Remember that most tire troubles are the result of abuse.

Avoid scraping the tires against the curb and running in ruts. This kind of wear scrapes off the rubber side wall and exposes the layers of cords to dirt and moisture, which soon starts to rot the cords.

In turning in a narrow street, avoid striking the curb.

If a tire goes flat without any indication of injury to the tire, see that the valve is not leaking. A little moisture on the tip will show bubbles if the air is escaping.

In case of puncture, the car should be stopped at once and the tube

repaired or replaced, or the tire replaced by the extra one. The tire should also be examined carefully and the cause of the puncture ascertained and the nail, glass or whatever it may be, should be extracted. Before replacing the tire on the rim, examine the inside of the casing to see that the cause

of the puncture is not still protruding. It is also advisable to look over the outside of the tires frequently and take out any pieces of glass or other particles which may have become imbedded in the casing.

Don't run in ruts or car tracks; the sides of a tire will soon wear out

under such treatment. Avoid large stones or other obstructions in the

road. To hit one of these may break the carcass even though no external injury be visible.

The garage floor should be kept free from oil or gasoline. The tires on a car left standing on a grease-covered floor deteriorate quickly, the natural enemies of rubber being oil and gasoline. These destroy the nature of the rubber, rendering it soft, so that it cuts and wears away quickly.

If the car is not used during the winter, it is better to remove the tires from the rims, keeping casings and tubes in a fairly warm atmosphere away from the light. It will be better to slightly inflate the tubes, as that keeps them very nearly in the position in which they will be used later on. If the tires are not removed and the car is stored in a light place, it will be well to cover the tires to protect them from the strong light, which has a deteriorating effect on rubber.

GENERAL CARE

The greatest injury that can be done to tires on a car stored for the winter is to allow the weight of the car to rest on the tires. The car should be blocked up, so that no weight is borne by the tires, and the tires should then be deflated partially. This will relieve the tires of all strain, so that in the spring they should be practically no worse for the winter's storage.

STORAGE

Engine

To prepare the engine for storage proceed as follows: Start the engine, cover the radiator and run the engine until it is hot. (See under "Personal Danger in Running Engine in Closed Garage," page 52.) The engine should be run at a speed which will show an ammeter reading of about 10 with all lights switched off. It usually requires from two to ten minutes to heat up the engine.

After the engine is hot, stop the flow of gasoline to the carburetor by removing the gasoline tank filler cap, thus relieving the air pressure. Immediately the engine starts to slow down from a "lean mixture" inject from three to four tablespoonfuls of clean fresh engine oil into the carburetor. This may be done easily after lifting the large polished aluminum cap on the carburetor directly over the air valve. This will stop the engine. Be certain there is no fire near when the filler cap is removed. Replace and tighten the cap after the engine stops.

Open the compression cocks. Inject from two to three tablespoonfuls

of clean fresh engine oil into each cylinder and before closing the cocks

crank the engine three or four revolutions with the ignition switched off. This will tend to distribute the oil over the cylinder walls.

If the engine is started again repeat the series of operations given in

Paragraphs 1, 2 and 3.

Drain the cooling system. You will find complete directions in this

book under "Draining the Cooling System," page 54.

Storage Battery

(See under "Preparing Battery for Winter Storage," page 60).

Tires

During winter storage it is best to remove the tires from the rims and keep the casings and tubes in a fairly warm atmosphere away from the light. It is best to inflate the tubes slightly after the tires have been removed to keep the tiret in the position in which they are when inflated on the rim.

GENERAL CARE

If the tires are not removed from the car, and the car is stored in a light

uace,

it is best to cover the tires to protect them from strong light, which

las a deteriorating effect on rubber.

The greatest injury that can be done to tires when the car is stored is o allow the weight of the car to rest on them. If the tires are not removed he car should be blocked up so that no weight is borne by the tires and the ires

partly deflated.

lody and Top

best to put the top up and cover the entire car to protect it from dust.

Faking the Car Out of Storage

When the car is taken out of storage and before the engine is started, irain the oil from the oil pan, remove and clean the oil pan and baffle plate uid replace the oil with fresh

oil.

(See

under "Replace Engine

Oil,"

page 33.)

The following instructions should be followed carefully in starting the jngine:

Open the compression relief cocks and inject from two to three table-

spoonfuls of clean fresh engine oil into each cylinder.

Close the cocks and with the ignition turned off turn the engine over a few revolutions by hand. This will tend to distribute the oil over the cylinder walls.

Start the engine in the usual manner.

Immediately the engine starts push the carburetor enriching button as far forward as possible without causing the engine to stop or slow down materially and open the throttle to a point which causes an ammeter reading of approximately 10 with all lights switched off. With the engine running inject from two to three tablespoonfuls of clean fresh engine oil into the carburetor. This may be done after lifting the large polished aluminum cap on the carburetor directly over the air valve.

Push the carburetor enriching button forward as far as it will go as soon

as the engine is warm enough to permit it.

CARE OF THE FINISH

The finish of an automobile requires more careful and frequent attention when the car is new than when it is older and the varnish is harder. Particular care should be taken to keep mud from the body and hood of the car while new.

Never permit mud to remain on the finish over night or long enough to

dry. If it is not possible to wash the car thoroughly before putting it away

GENERAL CARE

for the night,

flush

it off and then thoroughly wash the car the next morning. Mud permitted to remain on the car until it has dried, is not only difficult to remove but stains and dulls the finish.

WASHING THE CAR

Use clean water and plenty of it. Do not use water containing alkali.

In parts of the country where the regular water supply contains alkali use

rain water. Do not use hot water, as it destroys the lustre. The temperature of the water should be between 40 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Do

not wash the hood while it is hot. The effect on the finish is the same as washing it with hot water. Unless the hood is allowed to cool before washing, the lustre will soon disappear.

If a hose is used in washing, do not have water pressure greater than will carry the water 6" beyond the end of the hose. Water under higher pressure drives the grit and dirt into the varnish. It is best not to use a nozzle.

Start at one of the front wheels, first going over the underside of the

fender, the wheel and the chassis nearby, with water flowing gently from

the hose. This will flush off most of the mud and dirt.

If it is necessary to use soap to remove road oil from the underside of the fenders or machine oil or grease from the chassis, use a little good automobile soap dissolved in a pail of water and apply the soapy solution with a sponge. Do not let this soapy solution remain on the finish more than two or three minutes but immediately wash it off thoroughly with a good soft carriage

sponge.

Then proceed to wash the under surfaces of the remain-

ing fenders, the wheels and the remainder of the chassis in a similiar manner.

When the washing of the chassis is completed begin at the front of the car and with the water running gently from the hose, flow on the body, hood and upper surfaces of the fenders. This will soften the accumulation of road dirt and remove most of it. Then go over the car again and remove all dirt by rubbing lightly with a soft wool sponge, which should be kept exclusively for the body, hood and upper surfaces of the fenders. At the same time, apply gently from a hose an abundance of water. Rinse the sponge frequently in clean water to remove any grit. After the washing is completed squeeze the sponge as dry as possible and pick up all water

from crevices.

Then thoroughly wet a clean soft chamois, wring it as dry as possible, and dry the finish. Rinse the chamois and wring it out frequently. Do not rub the finish or apply more pressure than is necessary to dry off the water. Water evaporates quickly and leaves the finish in good condition.

If it is desired to chamois the wheels and chassis, wet the parts with clean water if they have become dry, and then wipe them. Use a separate

)

GENERAL CARE

tiamois for the chassis. Do not use on the body a chamois that has been sed on the chassis or wheels.

Do not use soap, gasoline, kerosene or anything of this nature on the

nish. Such ingredients attack the varnish.

Do not clean the glass with preparations which may contain harmful

lgredients. Use only cleaning compounds which are known to have no

estructive effects on highly polished glass.

GASOLINE SYSTEM

leneral Description

The supply of gasoline is carried in a tank at the rear of the car and is arced to the carburetor by air under a pressure of one to two pounds. A ioat controlled needle valve in the carburetor maintains the gasoline at

he correct level in the carburetor bowl.

The gasoline pressure is indicated by a gauge on the instrument board see Figure 1). A hand air compressor on the instrument board is provided, »y which pressure for starting may be obtained when the car has been tanding long enough to make this necessary. When the engine is running, wressure is automatically maintained by an air compressor on the engine, Iriven by an eccentric on the front end of the cam shaft. An air pressure elief valve connected in the air line prevents the pressure rising above that or which the valve is set.

The pipe extending almost to the bottom of the gasoline tank is a coninuation of the gasoline line. The air line simply enters the tank at the op and does not extend into the gasoline.

illing the Gasoline Tank

The gasoline tank is at the rear of the car. (See Fig. 21.) The filler

:ap may be removed after loosening the thumb screw.

Gasoline should be strained through a wire cloth of very fine mesh before t is poured into the tank. If dirt or water is allowed to enter the gasoline system it may cause great annoyance by getting under the carburetor inlet leedle and causing the carburetor to flood.

After filling the tank, screw on the filler cap and tighten the thumb screw. This is necessary to prevent leakage of the air pressure by which she gasoline is forced to the carburetor.

Settling Chambers and Strainers

There are two settling chambers in the gasoline system, one at the under side of the gasoline tank and the other attached to the left hand side of the frame of the car just under the front floor boards.

GENERAL CARE

There is a drain plug at the bottom of each of these settling chambers. Every one thousand miles or oftener the plug in the settling chamber under the floor boards and the plug in the settling chamber underneath the gaso-

line tank should be removed to drain the settling chambers of any dirt or water which has accumulated. Before unscrewing either of the plugs, the car should be driven out of the garage into the open and the gasoline system relieved of all air pressure by removing the gasoline filler cap on the tank. Be sure there is no fire near the car when these plugs are removed.

There are two strainers in the gasoline system which require cleaning periodically—one at the point where the gasoline feed pipe is attached to the carburetor, and the other attached to the drain plug in the settling

chamber under the front floor boards. (See Fig. 21.)

GASOLINE GAUGE

GASOLINE LINE

FILLER CAP

PRESSURE GAUGE

HAND AIR COMPRESSOR-

CARBURETOR

STRAINER

GASOLINE TANK

-SETTLING CHAMBER

DRAIN PLUG

SETTLING CHAMBER

AND STRAINER

DRAIN PIPE I

POWER AIR COMPRESSOR

Fig. 31. Gasoline System.

The strainers should be removed and cleaned every one thousand miles

or oftener. Remove the filler cap to relieve the air pressure before removing either strainer. In cold weather it may be found necessary to remove the strainers more frequently, to prevent an accumulation of water at these points which would freeze and prevent gasoline from flowing to the carburetor.

CARBURETOR

The carburetor is correctly adjusted when ;the car is assembled and unless tampered with should not require readjustment. It is unnecessary to change the adjustment for changes in season and weather.

Good carburetor action cannot be expected until the engine is thoroughly warmed up. Imperfect carburetor action while the engine is cold does not indicate that the carburetor requires adjustment.

If adjustment of the carburetor seems to be necessary have it made by a Cadillac distributor or dealer. The adjustment should not be attempted by one unfamiliar with it.

GENERAL CARE

ersonal Danger of Running Engine in Closed Garage

Carbon monoxide, a deadly poisonous gas, is present in the exhaust of asoline engines. Increasing the proportion of gasoline to air in the mixture }d to the engine, in other words, enriching it, increases the amount of arbon monoxide given off.

The presence of carbon monoxide makes it very dangerous to run the ngine while the car is in a small, closed garage. If the doors and windows re open the danger is lessened, but it is far safer, particularly if an adjusttient of the carburetor is being made, to run the car into the open.

Serious personal injury may be caused by the presence of carbon mon-

»xide in a garage if the percentage of it in the air is greater than a very small

raction of one per cent. Unconsciousness may result without warning,

[t is reported that no indication of danger is given by personal discomfort mtil too late. Deaths resulting from the presence of carbon monoxide in parages have been reported.

COOLING SYSTEM

General Description

The cooling system is of the forced circulation type. Circulation through each cylinder block is independent of that through the other, two pumps being provided.

The temperature of the liquid circulated by the pumps is under thermostatic control, the purpose of which is to permit liquid circulated through the water jackets of the cylinders to warm up to the temperature at which the engine operates best, very soon after the engine is started and to prevent

the temperature dropping below this point while the engine is running.

Condenser

A condenser, the purpose of which is to prevent the loss of the cooling medium by evaporation, is attached to the right hand side of the car frame and connected by a pipe to the radiator overflow pipe.

The operation of the condenser requires an air tight seal at the radiator

filler

cap.

To make it possible to screw down and tighten the cap without

injury to the rubber gasket, two metal washers are interposed between the

head of the cap and the gasket. It is important that nothing be installed on the radiator cap which may cause an air leak or which makes necessary the elimination of the washers or cutting a hole through the gasket.

GENERAL CARE

Refilling the Cooling System

Fill the cooling system with water during warm weather and with a suitable

anti-freezing solution during freezing weather. (See under "Anti-Freezing

Solutions", page 23.) To fill the cooling system proceed as follows:

Make sure that the cylinder drain plugs "E", Fig. 22, are tightly in place.

Close the water pump drain valves "G". Turn the thermostat control shaft

"B"

on each water pump so that the triangular indicator on the end of the

shaft points

up.

The shaft may be turned in either direction.

Fig. ??.

Cooling

System

There is a drain plug "E" in each cylinder block and a drain valve "G"

and a thermostat control shaft "B" at each water pump. A special wrench for the drain valves "G" and the thermostat control shafts "B" is included in the tool equipment of the car.

Remove the radiator filler cap "A" and fill the cooling system to within

one inch of the top of the filler. Then pour three quarts additional into the

radiator filler to fill the condenser. The last two quarts must be added slowly.

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Cadillac V-63 1923 Operator's Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual