Brother 1034DX, 3534DT, SB3734T, ST4031HD Operation Manual

Operation Manual

Compact Overlock Machine

Product Code: 884-B02 / B03

Manual de instrucciones

Máquina Compacta Overlock

Código de producto: 884-B02 / B03

English

Español

Be sure to read this document before using the machine. We recommend that you keep this document nearby for future reference.

Lea este documento antes de utilizar la máquina. Recomendamos que tenga este documento a mano por si necesita consultarlo más adelante.

IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

When using the sewing machine, basic safety precautions should always be followed, including the following. Read all instructions before using.

18. Young children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with this sewing machine.

DANGER

To reduce the risk of electric shock.

The sewing machine should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug this sewing machine from the electrical outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.

WARNING

To reduce the risk of burns, ﬁ re, electric shock, or injury to persons.

1. Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when the sewing machine is used by or near children.

2. Use this sewing machine only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only accessories recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.

3. Never operate this sewing machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the sewing machine to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.

4. Never operate the sewing machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the sewing machine and foot controller free from the accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth.

5. Never drop or insert any object into any openings.

6. Do not use outdoors.

7. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.

8. To disconnect, turn the main switch to the symbol "O" position which represents off, then remove plug from outlet.

9. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord.

10. Keep ﬁ ngers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the sewing machine needle.

11. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.

12. Do not use bent needles.

13. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deﬂ ect the needle causing it to break.

14. Switch the sewing machine to the symbol "O" position when making any adjustments in the needle area, such as threading needle, changing needle, or changing presser foot, etc.

15. Always unplug the sewing machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when making any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual.

16. Electrical Hazards:

- This machine should be connected to an AC

power source within the range indicated on the rating label. Do not connect it to a DC power source or inverter. If you are not sure what kind of power source you have, contact a qualiﬁ ed electrician.

- This machine is approved for use in the country of

purchase only.

17. This sewing machine is not intended for use by young children or inﬁ rm persons without supervision.

19. Do not disassenble the machine.

20. If the LED light unit (light-emitting diode) is damaged, it must be replaced by authorized dealer.

CAUTION

To use the machine safely

1. (For U.S.A. only)

This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade wider

than the other) to reduce the risk of electric shock, this plug is intended to ﬁ t in a polarized outlet only one way.

If the plug does not ﬁ t fully in the outlet, reverse

the plug. If it still does not ﬁ t, contact a qualiﬁ ed electrician to install the proper outlet.

Do not modify the plug in any way.

2. Make sure you watch the needles carefully while you are sewing. Do not touch the hand wheel, needles, knives, or other moving parts.

3. Turn off the main power and unplug the cord in the following circumstances:

- When you have stopped using the machine

- When you are replacing or removing the needle or

any other part

- If there is a power failure while you are using the

machine

- If you are checking or cleaning the machine

- Leaving the machine unattended

4. Do not store anything on the foot controller.

5. Fully plug the machine directly into the wall. Do not use extension cords.

6. If water is dropped on the machine, unplug the machine immediately, and contact your local authorized dealer.

7. Do not put furniture on the cord.

8. Do not bend the cord, or pull on the cord to unplug.

9. Do not touch the cord with wet hands.

10. Place the machine near to the wall outlet.

11. Do not place the machine on an unstable surface.

12. Do not put on the soft cover.

13. If you notice any abnormal sound or condition, consult your local authorized dealer.

To give your machine a longer life

1. Do not store this machine in direct sunlight or in high humidity conditions. Do not use or store the machine near a heater, iron, halogen lamp or other hot object.

2. Use only mild soaps or detergents to clean the case. Benzene, thinner, and scouring powders can damage the case and machine, and should never be used.

3. Do not drop or hit the machine.

4. Always consult this manual before you replace or ﬁ t the presser foot, needle, or any other parts to make sure you ﬁ t them correctly.

To repair or adjust the machine

If the machine breaks down or needs adjustment, ﬁ rst follow the troubleshooting table to inspect and adjust the machine yourself. If the problem persists, consult your local authorized dealer.

SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS

This machine is intended for household use.

FOR USERS IN COUNTRIES EXCEPT EUROPEAN COUNTRIES

This appliance is not intended for use by persons (including children) with reduced physical, sensory or mental capabilities, or lack of experience and knowledge, unless they have been given supervision or instruction concerning use of the appliance by a person responsible for their safety. Children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with the appliance.

FOR USERS IN EUROPEAN COUNTRIES

This appliance can be used by children aged from 8 years and above and persons with reduced physical, sensory or mental capabilities or lack of experience and knowledge if they have been given supervision or instruction concerning use of the appliance in a safe way and understand the hazards involved. Children shall not play with the appliance. Cleaning and user maintenance shall not be made by children without supervision.

CAUTION

When leaving this sewing machine unattended, the main power and light switch of the machine must be switched off or the plug must be removed from the socket-outlet.

When servicing the sewing machine, or when removing covers, the machine or the electrical set must be disconnected from the supply by removing the plug from the socket-outlet.

English

FOR USERS IN THE UK, EIRE,

MALTA AND CYPRUS ONLY

IMPORTANT

- In the event of replacing the plug fuse, use a fuse approved by ASTA to BS 1362, i.e. carrying the mark, rating as marked on plug.

- Always replace the fuse cover. Never use plugs with the fuse cover omitted.

- If the available electrical outlet is not suitable for the plug supplied with this equipment, you should contact your authorized dealer to obtain the correct lead.

CONGRATULATIONS ON CHOOSING THIS COMPACT

AVERTISSEMENT:

PARTIES EN MOUVEMENT. POUR ÉVITER TOUTE BLESSURE: FERMER LE CAPOT AVANT DE COUDRE. DÉBRANCHER AVANT ENTRETIEN.

OVERLOCK MACHINE

Your machine is a high quality, easy-to-use product. To fully enjoy all the features, we suggest that you study this booklet.

If you need more information regarding the use of your machine, your nearest authorized dealer is always happy to be of service.

Enjoy yourself!

CAUTION

When threading or replacing needle, the main power and light switch of the machine must be switched off or the plug must be removed from the socket-outlet.

When the machine is not in use, it is recommended that the electric supply plug is disconnected from the wall socket to avoid any possible hazards.

Notes on the motor

- The maximum operating speed of this sewing machine is 1,300 stitches per minute, which is quite fast compared to the normal operating speed of 300 to 800 stitches per minute for the ordinary sewing machine.

- The bearings in the motor are made of a special sintered, oil-impregnated alloy mounted in oilsoaked felt to withstand long hours of continuous operation.

- Continuous operation of the sewing machine can cause heat to build in the motor area, but not enough to adversely affect its performance. It is important to keep fabric and paper away from the air openings on the back and sides of the machine so air can get to these openings.

- When the motor is running, sparks can be seen through the air openings in the motor bracket on the side opposite the hand wheel. These sparks are produced by the carbon brushes and the commutator, and are part of the machines normal operation.

WARNING LABELS

The following warning labels are on the machine. Be sure to observe the precautions described in the labels.

Caution (U.S.A. and CANADA only)

Face plate sticker (U.S.A. and CANADA only)

(for complying with UL and CSA requirements)

Label locations

[Product code: 884-B02] [Product code: 884-B03]

Contents

Chapter 1: Names of parts and their functions ................................................................... 4

Accessories ........................................................................................................................5

Powering the machine ........................................................................................................6

Turning direction of hand wheel .........................................................................................6

Opening/ Closing front cover ..............................................................................................6

Attaching/ Removing presser foot ......................................................................................6

Trim trap .............................................................................................................................7

Free-arm sewing (removing bed extension) .......................................................................7

Retracting knife ..................................................................................................................8

Stitch length........................................................................................................................8

Stitch width .........................................................................................................................8

Differential feed ..................................................................................................................9

Adjusting the presser foot pressure ....................................................................................9

Tension adjustment dial ......................................................................................................10

Chart of thread tension adjustment, Two needle (Four thread) ..........................................11

Chart of thread tension adjustment, One needle (Three thread) .......................................12

Needle ................................................................................................................................13

Removing/ Installing the needle .........................................................................................13

Chapter 2 : Preparation before threading ............................................................................. 14

Thread tree .........................................................................................................................14

How to use the thread spool cap ........................................................................................14

How to use the thread net ..................................................................................................14

Before threading .................................................................................................................14

Chapter 3: Threading .............................................................................................................. 15

Threading the lower looper .................................................................................................15

Threading the upper looper ................................................................................................17

Threading the right needle .................................................................................................18

Threading the left needle....................................................................................................18

Chapter 4: Sewing materials, threads and needles comparison chart .............................. 19

Chapter 5: Sewing .................................................................................................................. 20

Stitch selection ...................................................................................................................20

Test sewing .........................................................................................................................20

Chaining-off ........................................................................................................................21

To start sewing ...................................................................................................................21

To remove work ..................................................................................................................21

To secure chain ..................................................................................................................22

If threads break during sewing ...........................................................................................23

To sew ﬁ ne materials ..........................................................................................................23

Narrow overlock/ Rolled hemming stitch ............................................................................23

Chart of narrow overlock/ rolled hemming stitch ................................................................25

Chapter 6: Troubleshooting ................................................................................................... 26

Chapter 7: Maintenance .........................................................................................................27

Cleaning .............................................................................................................................27

Oiling .................................................................................................................................27

Chapter 8: Introduction of optional feet ............................................................................... 28

Blind stitch foot ...................................................................................................................28

Taping foot ..........................................................................................................................30

Pearl sequence foot ............................................................................................................31

Piping foot ..........................................................................................................................32

Gatheing foot ......................................................................................................................33

Speciﬁ cations ......................................................................................................................... 34

Setting record ........................................................................................................................ 71

English

CHAPTER 1 NAMES OF PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS

Inside of the front cover

[Product code: 884-B02] [Product code: 884-B03]

<C>

Thread tree

Thread plate

Presser foot pressure adjustment screw

Spool pin

Spool support

Thread take-up cover

Needles

Bed extension

Presser foot

Material plate cover

Left needle thread tension dial

Right needle thread tension dial

Upper looper thread tension dial

Lower looper thread tension dial

Front cover

Presser foot lifting lever

Main power and light switch

Stitch length adjustment dial

<A>

<D>

* The product code is shown on the machine rating plate.

Hand wheel

Differential feed ratio adjustment dial

Stitch width dial

Inside of the front cover

Thread guide

Lower looper threading lever

Thread take up for loopers

Upper looper

Upper knife

Lower looper

Stitch ﬁ nger

Knife lever

Front cover compartment

You can hold the included accessories and the removed stitch ﬁ nger in this front cover compartment. <A>: Needle set, : Stitch ﬁ nger (when removed, see CHAPTER 5 "Narrow overlock/ Rolled hemming stitch"), <C>: Tweezers, <D>: Hexagonal driver

* Air openings (on the side and back)

<A>

<D>

Accessories

Included accessory

Soft cover: X77871000

Accessory bag: 122991052

Tweezers: XB1618001

Thread net (4): X75904000

Thread spool cap (4): X77260000

Cleaning brush: X75906001

Hexagonal driver: XB0393001

Needle set (130/705H): XB2772001

#80: 2 pcs., #90: 2 pcs.

Foot controller:

XC7359021 (120V Area) XC7438421 (230V Area) XC7456521 (U.K.) XD0112121 (Argentina) XD0852121 (Korea) XD0105021 (China) XE0629001 (Australia, New Zealand) XF2826001 (Brazil 127V) XE4302201 (Brazil 220V)

Instruction DVD: XB2791001 (NTSC)

XB2776001 (PAL)

Optional accessory

For further information about the following items, see CHAPTER 8.

Blind stitch foot: X76590002

Gathering foot:

SA213 (U.S.A., CANADA) X77459001 (OTHERS)

Pearl sequence foot:

SA211 (U.S.A., CANADA) X76670002 (OTHERS)

Piping foot:

SA210 (U.S.A., CANADA) XB0241101 (OTHERS)

English

Taping (Elastic) foot:

SA212 (U.S.A., CANADA) X76663001 (OTHERS)

Trim trap: XB1530002 for product code 884-B02

Trim trap: XB2793001 for product code 884-B03

* The product code is shown on the machine rating

plate.

Powering the machine

Turning on the machine

1. Insert the three-pin plug into the socket on the

bottom right side of the machine. Insert the power supply plug into a power outlet.

2. Turn the main power and light switch <A> to "I"

mark (to "O" mark to turn off).

<A>

Opening/ Closing front cover

It is necessary to open the front cover when threading this machine. Slide it to the right 1 and open 2, or close it and slide it to the left.

CAUTION

For your safety, make sure that the front cover is closed when operating the machine.

Always turn off the machine before opening the front cover.

Operation

When the foot controller is pressed lightly, the machine runs at a low speed. As the foot controller is pressed further, the machine will increase speed. When the foot controller is released, the machine stops.

NOTE (For U.S.A. only): Foot controller: Model KD-1902 This foot controller can be used on the machine with product code 884-B02 and 884-B03. * The product code is shown on the machine rating

plate.

Turning direction of hand wheel

The hand wheel <A> turns in a counterclockwise direction (direction of arrow). This is the same direction as an ordinary home sewing machine. The needles move to their highest positions by turning the hand wheel so that the mark on the hand wheel is aligned to the line on the machine.

Attaching/ Removing presser foot

1. Turn off the main power and light switch or disconnect the electric supply plug.

2. Raise the presser foot lever.

3. Turn the hand wheel 2 so that the mark on the hand wheel is aligned to the line on the machine. (See CHAPTER1 "Turning direction of hand wheel".)

Push the button on the presser foot holder and

the standard presser foot will be released.

5. Raise the presser foot farther by pushing the presser foot lever upward. Then remove the presser foot and store it in a safe location.

6. Again, raise the presser foot farther by pushing the presser foot lever upward. Then place the presser foot just under the presser foot holder <A> so that the groove in the bottom of the presser foot holder is aligned and catches the bar on the top of the foot <C>. Then lower the presser foot lever to attatch the foot, pushing the button on the presser foot.

3 4

<A>

<C>

Trim trap

The optional trim trap <A> holds the trimmed fabric and thread produced when sewing.

Free-arm sewing (removing bed extension)

Free-arm sewing enables tubular pieces to be sewn more easily.

1. Remove the bed extension <A>.

<A>

To install: Insert the trim trap <A> until it contacts the front cover.

NOTE: Be sure to position the positioning guide to the one on the machine.

To remove: Slowly pull out the trim trap.

NOTE: The optional trim trap can also be used as the foot controller holder.

<A>

NOTE: Be careful not to lose the removed bed extension.

2. Position the fabric, and start sewing. (See CHAPTER 5.)

English

CAUTION

Always remove the foot controller from the trim trap when carrying the machine.

Retracting knife

<A>

To sew without cutting the fabric edge, you need to retract the knife as follows.

CAUTION

Do not touch the knife.

Move the knife lever only while the needle is at its lowest point.

Be sure to unplug the power supply cord from the wall outlet before retracting the knife.

1. Pull up the knife lever <A>, then pull it to the right.

<A>

2. Bring down the knife.

Stitch length

The normal stitch length setting is 3 mm. To change the stitch length, turn the stitch length adjustment dial on the right side of the body.

Shorten the stitch length to a minimum of 2 mm

(5/64 inch).

Lengthen the stitch to a maximum of 4 mm (5/32

inch).

<A> Selection mark

Stitch width

The normal stitch width setting for regular overlock stitch is 5mm (13/64 inch). To change the stitch width, turn the stitch width adjustment dial.

3. Retract the knife completely, then take your hand off from the lever.

Increase the width to a maximum of 7 mm (9/32

inch).

Reduce the stitch width to a minimum of 5 mm

(3/16 inch).

<A> Selection mark

Differential feed

<A>

This serger is equipped with two sets of feed dogs under the presser foot to move the fabric through the machine. The differential feed controls the movement of both the front and the rear feed dogs. When set at 1, the feed dogs are moving at the same speed (ratio of 1). When the differential feed ratio is set at less than 1, the front feed dogs move slower than the rear feed dogs, stretching the fabric as it is sewn. This is effective on lightweight fabric that may pucker. When the differential feed ratio is set at greater than 1, the front feed dogs move faster than the rear feed dogs, gathering the fabric as it is sewn. This function assists in removing the rippling when serging stretch fabrics.

Differential feed adjustment

Feed ratio

0.7 - 1.0

1.0 - 2.0

The normal setting is 1.0 on the differential feed adjustment dial.

To adjust the diffrerential feed, turn the dial on the right bottom of the body.

1.0

Main feed (rear)

Differential feed (front)

Effect

Material is pulled tight.

Without differential feed.

Material is gathered or pushed together.

Application

Prevents thin materials from puckering

Normal sewing

Prevents stretch materials from stretching or puckering

An example

When stretch material is sewn without using the differential feed, the edge will be wavy.

English

To get smooth ﬁ nish, adjust the feed ratio from 1.0 toward 2.0. (The feed ratio required depends on the elasticity of the material.)

The more elastic the material, the further toward

2.0 the differential feed ratio should be set. Test sew with a scrap of the fabric to ﬁ nd the correct adjustment.

CAUTION

When sewing thick non-stretchable material such as denim, do not use the differential feed as it may damage the fabric.

Adjusting the presser foot pressure

Turn the pressure adjustment screw on the top left of the machine. You can adjust by referring the value on the screw.

The normal setting is "2".

Less than 1.0 2 Greater than 1.0 <A> Selection mark

Less pressure

More pressure

<A> Selection mark

Tension adjustment dial

1234



There is a thread tension dial for each needle thread, the lower looper thread and the upper looper thread. The correct thread tension may vary according to the type and thickness of the fabric and the type of thread used. Thread tension adjustments may be necessary for any change in sewing materials.

Yellow marked tension disc is for left needle.

Pink marked tension disc is for right needle.

Green marked tension disc is for upper looper.

Blue marked tension disc is for lower looper.

Tension control

Sewing is possible at position "4" for most circumstances. (Standard: SPAN 60/3Z)

If the stitch quality is insufﬁ cient, select a different tension setting.

For heavy tension: 4 to 7

For light tension: 4 to 2

For medium tension: 5 to 3

If you cannot ﬁ nd the correct tension, refer to the charts on following pages.

<A> Tension selection mark

CAUTION

Make sure that the thread is properly seated in the tension discs.

Chart of thread tension adjustment, Two needle (Four thread)

A: Reverse B: Surface C: Left needle thread D: Right needle thread E: Upper looper thread F: Lower looper thread

English

Left needle thread is

loose.

Right needle thread is loose.

Left needle thread is tight.

Right needle thread is tight.

Upper looper thread is tight.

Tighten left needle thread. (yellow)

Tighten right needle thread. (pink)

Loosen left needle thread. (yellow)

Loosen right needle thread (pink)

Loosen upper looper thread (green)

Lower looper thread is loose.

Upper looper thread is loose.

Tighten lower looper thread (blue)

Tighten upper looper thread (green)

When you adjust the thread tension, do it in the following order:

A F

Lower looper thread is tight.

Upper looper thread is loose.

Lower looper thread is loose.

Loosen lower looper thread (blue)

Tighten upper looper thread (green)

Tighten lower looper thread (blue)

(1) Left needle thread (2) Right needle thread (3) Upper looper thread (4) Lower looper thread

This is the easiest way to obtain the correct thread tension.

Chart of thread tension adjustment, One needle (Three thread)

A: Reverse B: Surface C: Needle thread D: Upper looper thread E: Lower looper thread

Needle thread

is loose.

Needle thread is tight.

Upper looper thread is tight.

Lower looper thread is loose.

Upper looper thread is loose.

Lower looper thread is tight.

Tighten needle thread. (yellow or pink)

Loosen needle thread. (yellow or pink)

Loosen upper looper thread (green)

Tighten lower looper thread (blue)

Tighten upper looper thread (green)

Loosen lower looper thread (blue)

When you adjust the thread tension, do it in the following order:

(1) Needle thread

Upper looper thread is loose.

Lower looper thread is loose.

Tighten upper looper thread (green)

Tighten lower looper thread (blue)

(2) Upper looper thread (3) Lower looper thread

This is the easiest way to obtain the correct thread tension.

Needle

<A>

This machine uses a standard home sewing machine needle. The recommended needle is 130/705H (#80 or #90).

Needle description

Back (ﬂ at side) 2 Front 3 Groove

How to check the needle

Flat surface

Place the needle on its ﬂ at side and check to see if the

space is parallel.

NOTE: Countermeasures for material breakage <A>.

To remove:

1. Turn the main power and light switch to the OFF position.

2. Turn the hand wheel so that the mark on the hand wheel is aligned to the line on the machine. (See CHAPTER 1 "Turning direction of hand wheel".)

3. Loosen the corresponding needle set screw with turning the included hexagonal driver toward 2 in the ﬁ gure, and remove the needle.

To install:

1. Turn the main power and light switch to the OFF position.

2. Turn the hand wheel so that the line on the hand wheel is aligned to the line on the machine.

3. Hold the needle with its ﬂ at side away from you and insert it up as far as it will go.

4. Tighten the needle set screw securely with turning the included hexagonal driver toward

in the ﬁ gure.

NOTE: Make sure to insert the needles all the way. If the needles have been inserted correctly, the right needle should be set slightly lower than the left one.

English

It can reduce the occurrence of material breakage by using 130/705H SUK (#90) BALL POINT.

Removing/ Installing the needle

<A> Removing/ installing the left needle Removing/ installing the right needle

<A>

Tighten 2 Loosen

CAUTION

Always be sure to turn off the power before removing/ inserting the needle.

Do not drop the needle and needle set screw in the machine, otherwise it may be damaged.

CHAPTER 2



PREPARATION BEFORE THREADING

Thread tree

Raise the telescoping thread tree to its highest position. Make sure that the thread holders are in alignment above the spool pins as illustrated below.

Thread holder on thread tree

Spool pin

Correct position

How to use the thread spool cap

When using sewing thread spools, the thread spool cap should be used as illustrated below. Make sure that the spool notch is on the bottom.

Before threading

1. Turn off the main power and light switch for safety.

2. Raise the presser foot using presser foot lever.

3. Turn the hand wheel so that the mark on the hand wheel <A> is aligned to the line on the machine. (See CHAPTER 1 "Turning direction of hand wheel".)

Thread spool cap

How to use the thread net

If you are sewing with loosely spun nylon thread, we recommend that you cover the spool with the net supplied to prevent the thread from slipping off the spool. Adapt the net to the shape of the spool.

<A>

CHAPTER 3

<A>

THREADING

CAUTION

Turn off the machine before threading for safety.

Threading has to be done in the following order.

1. Lower looper

2. Upper looper

3. Right needle

4. Left needle

4. Pass the thread through the tension disc 4 which is in the channel next to the blue tension adjustment dial.

5. Guide the thread down the channel and pass the thread through the threading points

5678

the numerical order in the accompanying illustration.

NOTE: Make sure to thread both of the thread take ups 7.

next to the blue color marks following

English

Threading the lower looper

Run the thread in the sequence illustrated, following the blue color and the numbers next to each threading point.

Continue on "Lower looper easy threading operation".

Lower looper easy threading operation

1. Slide the lower looper threading lever <A> to the right. The lower looper moves to the position illustrated as below.

CAUTION

Slide the threading lever only in the directions shown by the arrow. Forcefully moving the threading lever in any other direction may damage it.

1. Open the front cover by sliding to the right and guiding the top toward you.

2. Pull the thread off the spool and directly up through the thread holder 1 and the thread plate 2 on the thread tree from back to front.

3. Pass the thread thourgh the hole 3 on the top of machine.

Before sliding the lower looper threading lever, make sure the needle is at its highest position.

2. Pass the thread as illustrated.

3. Pass the thread through the eye of the lower looper.

4. Slowly turn the hand wheel, and make sure the returns to the original position.

NOTE: If the lower looper thread breaks during sewing, cut and remove thread from both of the needles.

Before re-threading the lower looper, make sure that the lower looper re-threading is done exactly as diagrammed. The machine will not operate properly if the threading is not done in the proper sequence.

CAUTION

Thread the needles after the lower looper and upper looper have been threaded.

Threading the upper looper

Run the thread in the sequence illustrated, following the green color and the numbers next to each threading point.

5. Guide the thread down the channel and pass the thread through the threading points

5678

marks following the numerical order in the accompanying illustration.

NOTE: Make sure to thread only through the upper thread take up 7.

6. Pass the thread through the eye of the upper looper 9.

NOTE: If the upper looper thread breaks during sewing: This may be caused by the lower looper thread getting caught on the upper looper. If this happens, lower the upperlooper by turning the hand wheel, remove the lower looper thread from the upper looper, and re-thread the upper looper from at least the tension disc.

next to the green color

English

1. Open the front cover by sliding to the right and guiding the top toward you.

2. Pull the thread off the spool and directly up through the thread holder 1 and the thread plate 2 on the thread tree from back to front.

3. Pass the thread thourgh the hole 3 on the top of machine.

4. Pass the thread through the tension disc 4 which is in the channel next to the green tension adjustment dial.

Threading the right needle

Run the thread in the sequence illustrated below, following the pink color and the numbers next to each threading point.

Threading the left needle

Run the thread in the sequence illustrated, following the yellow color and the numbers next to each threading point.

<A>

<C>

<A>

<C>

1. Pull the thread off the spool and directly up through the thread holder 1 and the thread plate 2 on the thread tree from back to front.

2. Pass the thread thourgh the hole 3 on the top of machine.

3. Pass the thread through the tension disc 4 which is in the channel next to the pink tension adjustment dial.

4. Guide the thread down the channel and across through the threading points 5 6 7 next to the pink color marks following the numerical order in the accompanying illustration.

NOTE: Make sure the thread is through the right of the separater <A>.

5. Bring the thread down through the needle bar thread guide and through the right needle 8 from front to back. (: two needles/ <C>: one needle)

1. Pull the thread off the spool and directly up through the thread holder 1 and the thread plate 2 on the thread tree from back to front.

2. Pass the thread thourgh the hole 3 on the top of machine.

3. Pass the thread through the tension disc 4 which is in the channel next to the yellow tension adjustment dial.

4. Guide the thread down the channel and across through the threading points 5 6 7 next to the yellow color marks following the numerical order in the accompanying illustration.

NOTE: Make sure the thread is through the left of the separater <A>.

5. Bring the thread down through the needle bar thread guide and through the left needle 8 from front to back. (: two needles/ <C>: one needle)

CHAPTER 4 SEWING MATERIALS, THREADS AND NEEDLES COMPARISON CHART

Material Stitch

Fine materials: Georgette Lawn Organdy Tricot

Medium materials:

Gabardine Serge

Medium materials:

Heavy materials: Tweed Denim Knits

Broad cloth

Stitch Length

(mm)

Overlock stitch 2.0-3.0 Spun #80-90

Narrow over lock/ Rolled hemming stitch

Overlock stitch 2.5-3.5 Spun #60-80

Narrow over lock/ Rolled hemming stitch

Overlock stitch 3.0-4.0 Cotton #50-60

R-2.0 Needle thread :

Thread Needle

Cotton #100 Tetron #80-100

Spun #80-90 Tetron #80-100

Looper thread : Woolly nylon thread Spun #80-90 Tetron #80-100

Cotton #60-80 Tetron #60-80

Spun #60-80 Tetron #60-80

Looper thread : Woolly nylon thread Spun #60-80 Tetron #60-80

Spun #60 Tetron #50-60

130/705H #80

130/705H #80 #90

130/705H #90

English

NOTE: Decorative thread will work best in the upper looper for fashion sewing.

CHAPTER 5 SEWING

Stitch selection

Select the stitch pattern before you start sewing. This sewing machine can sew ﬁ ve different stitches by following the simple steps below:

Four-thread overlock stitch

Use all four threads and two needles for producing four-thread overlock stitches.

Use: Produces strong seam. Ideal for sewing knits and wovens.

Three-thread overlock stitch 5 mm (3/16 inch)

Use three threads and the left needle, producing 5 mm (3/16 inch) seams.

Use: For overlock stitching on suits, blouses, slacks, etc. Ideal for medium to heavy materials.

NOTE: Remove the right needle when sewing this overlock stitch.

Narrow overlock stitch 2.0mm (5/64 inch) and

Rolled hemming stitch 2.0mm (5/64 inch)

Use as decorative or ﬁ nishing stitch. See "Narrow overlock/ Rolled hemming stitch" in this chapter for details.

NOTE: You can use the optional accessory foot for even more varieties of stitches. See CHAPTER 8 for details.

Test sewing

Test-sew before you start sewing.

1. Set all the thread tension to "4".

2. Thread the machine and pull all threads out about 15 cm (6 inches) behind the presser foot.

Three-thread overlock stitch 2.8 mm (7/64 inch)

Use three threads and the right needle, producing

2.8 mm (7/64 inch) seams. Use: For overlock stitching on suits, blouses,

slacks, etc. Ideal for ﬁ ne to medium materials.

NOTE: Remove the left needle when sewing this overlock stitch.

3. Place a piece of scrap material under the presser foot for test sewing.

NOTE: Always lift the presser foot before placing the fabric under it. You cannot start sewing by just running the fabric under the foot without lifting the presser foot.

4. Holding all threads with your left hand, turn the hand wheel slowly a few times toward you, and check to see that the threads entwine themselves before using the foot controller to sew.

3. The fabric will be fed automatically. You need only guide it in the required direction.

4. Check the stitch formation (stitch chain) to see if it is uniform. If the stitch is not uniform, re-check that the threading has been done properly and in sequence.

5. Follow the Seam Allowance Guide for consistent cutting of the fabric seams. The scale of Seam Allowance Guide shows 9.5,

12.7, 15.9, and 25.4 mm (3/8, 1/2, 5/8, and 1 inches) when the stitch width dial is set to "5".

English

Chaining-off

After test-sewing, continue to depress the foot controller slightly and chain off 10 cm (4 inches). The threads will entwine themselves into a chain automatically.

NOTE: If the thread tension is not correctly balanced, the chaining-off result will be uneven. If this happens, pull the threads slightly. Check the threading order and adjust the thread tension to create an even chain. (See CHAPTER 1 "Tension adjustment dial".)

To start sewing

1. Thread the machine and pull all threads out about 15 cm (6 inches) behind the presser foot.

Presser foot 2 Upper knife 3 Seam Allowance Guide

To remove work

When the seam is ﬁ nished, keep the machine running at a low speed to obtain chaining-off. Then cut the stitches 5 cm (2 inches) from the work. If feeding for chaining-off is not enough, pull the thread gently.

2. Lift the presser foot and place the material well underneath the presser foot before starting to sew. Slowly sew a few stitches by turning the hand wheel.

+ 53 hidden pages

Brother 1034DX, 3534DT, SB3734T, ST4031HD Operation Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual