Brother JK4000, JK7000 Operation Manual

GETTING READY

SEWING BASICS

UTILITY STITCHES

APPENDIX

Operation Manual

Computerized Sewing Machine

Product Code: 885-V12/V13

IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

Please read these safety instructions before attempting to use the machine.

DANGER - To reduce the risk of electric shock:

1Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet immediately after using, when cleaning,

when making any user servicing adjustments mentioned in this manual, or if you are leaving the

machine unattended.

WARNING - To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons.

2Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet when making any adjustments mentioned

in the instruction manual:

• To unplug the machine, switch the machine to the symbol “O” position to turn it off, then grasp

the plug and pull it out of the electrical outlet. Do not pull on the cord.

• Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet. Do not use an extension cord.

• Always unplug your machine if the power is cut.

3 Never operate this machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has

been dropped or damaged, or water is spilled on the unit. Return the machine to the nearest

authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.

While the machine is stored or in use if you notice anything unusual, such as an odor, heat,

discoloration or deformation, stop using the machine immediately and unplug the power cord.

When transporting the sewing machine, be sure to carry it by its handle. Lifting the sewing

machine by any other part may damage the machine or result in the machine falling, which could

cause injuries.

When lifting the sewing machine, be careful not to make any sudden or careless movements,

otherwise you may injure your back or knees.

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4 Always keep your work area clear:

• Never operate the machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the sewing machine and foot control free from the build up of lint, dust, and loose cloth.

• Do not store objects on the foot controller.

• Do not use extension cords. Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet.

• Never drop or insert any object into any opening.

• Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.

• Do not use the machine near a heat source, such as a stove or iron; otherwise, the machine, power cord or garment being sewn may ignite, resulting in fire or an electric shock.

• Do not place this sewing machine on an unstable surface, such as an unsteady or slanted table, otherwise the sewing machine may fall, resulting in injuries.

5 Special care is required when sewing:

• Always pay close attention to the needle. Do not use bent or damaged needles.

• Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the machine needle.

• Switch the sewing machine to the symbol “O” position to turn it off when making any adjustments in the needle area.

• Do not use a damaged or incorrect needle plate, as it could cause the needle to break.

• Do not push or pull the fabric when sewing, and follow careful instruction when freehand stitching so that you do not deflect the needle and cause it to break.

6 This machine is not a toy:

• Your close attention is necessary when the machine is used by or near children.

• The plastic bag that this sewing machine was supplied in should be kept out of the reach of children or disposed of. Never allow children to play with the bag due to the danger of suffocation.

• Do not use outdoors.

7 For a longer service life:

• When storing this machine, avoid direct sunlight and high humidity locations. Do not use or store the machine near a space heater, iron, halogen lamp, or other hot objects.

• Use only neutral soaps or detergents to clean the case. Benzene, thinner, and scouring powders can damage the case and machine, and should never be used.

• Always consult the operation manual when replacing or installing any assemblies, the presser feet, needle, or other parts to assure correct installation.

2

8 For repair or adjustment:

• If the Light unit (light-emitting diode) is damaged, it must be replaced by authorized dealer.

• In the event a malfunction occurs or adjustment is required, first follow the troubleshooting table in the back of the operation manual to inspect and adjust the machine yourself. If the problem persists, please consult your local authorized Brother dealer.

Use this machine only for its intended use as described in this manual.

Use accessories recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.

The contents of this manual and specifications of this product are subject to change without notice.

For additional product information, visit our web site at www.brother.com

SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS

This machine is intended for household use.

This appliance is not intended for use by persons (including children) with reduced physical, sensory or mental capabilities, or lack of experience and knowledge, unless they have been given supervision or instruction concerning use of the appliance by a person responsible for their safety. Children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with the appliance.

3

FOR USERS IN THE UK, EIRE, MALTA AND CYPRUS ONLY

IMPORTANT

• In the event of replacing the plug fuse, use a fuse approved by ASTA to BS 1362, i.e. carrying the

mark, rating as marked on plug.

• Always replace the fuse cover. Never use plugs with the fuse cover omitted.

• If the available electrical outlet is not suitable for the plug supplied with this equipment, you should contact your authorized dealer to obtain the correct lead.

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5

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Contents

IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS ............................................................................... 1

Introduction ........................................................................................................................ 8

Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions ..................................................................... 8

Machine ............................................................................................................................................................ 8

Needle and presser foot section ...................................................................................................................... 9

Operation buttons ........................................................................................................................................... 10

Operation panel .............................................................................................................................................. 10

Flat bed attachment ....................................................................................................................................... 10

Accessories ........................................................................................................................ 11

Included accessories ...................................................................................................................................... 11

Optional accessories ...................................................................................................................................... 12

1. GETTING READY ..........................................................................................13

Turning the Machine On/Off ............................................................................................. 13

Power supply precautions .............................................................................................................................. 13

Turning on the machine ................................................................................................................................. 14

Turning off the machine ................................................................................................................................. 14

Preparing for Upper and Lower Threading ........................................................................ 15

Winding the bobbin ........................................................................................................................................ 15

Installing the bobbin .......................................................................................................................................18

Threading the upper thread ............................................................................................................................ 20

Threading the needle ..................................................................................................................................... 23

Threading the needle manually (without using the needle threader) .............................................................26

Using the twin needle ..................................................................................................................................... 26

Replacing the Needle ........................................................................................................ 29

Needle precautions ........................................................................................................................................ 29

Needle types and their uses ........................................................................................................................... 30

Checking the needle ...................................................................................................................................... 31

Replacing the needle ..................................................................................................................................... 31

Replacing the Presser Foot ................................................................................................ 33

Presser foot precautions ................................................................................................................................ 33

Replacing the presser foot ............................................................................................................................. 33

Removing the presser foot holder .................................................................................................................. 34

Using the optional walking foot ...................................................................................................................... 35

Useful Functions ................................................................................................................ 37

Changing the needle stop position ................................................................................................................. 37

Changing the initial needle position ............................................................................................................... 38

Sewing Cylindrical or Large Pieces ....................................................................................39

Stitching cylindrical pieces ............................................................................................................................. 39

Sewing large pieces of fabric ......................................................................................................................... 39

2. SEWING BASICS ...........................................................................................41

Starting to Sew .................................................................................................................. 41

Sewing procedure .......................................................................................................................................... 41

Selecting a stitch ............................................................................................................................................ 42

Adjusting the stitch length and width .............................................................................................................. 42

Positioning the fabric ......................................................................................................................................43

Starting to sew ...............................................................................................................................................44

Securing the stitching ..................................................................................................................................... 46

Cutting the thread ........................................................................................................................................... 48

Automatically sewing reverse/reinforcement stitches .................................................................................... 48

Adjusting the thread tension ........................................................................................................................... 49

6

Useful Sewing Tips ............................................................................................................ 50

Trial sewing .................................................................................................................................................... 50

Changing the sewing direction ....................................................................................................................... 50

Sewing curves ................................................................................................................................................ 50

Sewing thick fabrics ....................................................................................................................................... 50

Sewing thin fabrics ......................................................................................................................................... 51

Sewing stretch fabrics .................................................................................................................................... 51

Sewing hook-and-loop fastener ..................................................................................................................... 52

Pulling up the bobbin thread .......................................................................................................................... 52

3. UTILITY STITCHES ........................................................................................53

Overcasting ....................................................................................................................... 53

Sewing overcasting stitches using zigzag foot “J” .......................................................................................... 54

Sewing overcasting stitches using overcasting foot “G” .................................................................................54

Basic Stitching ...................................................................................................................55

Blind Hem Stitching .......................................................................................................... 56

Buttonhole Stitching ..........................................................................................................58

Button sewing ................................................................................................................................................. 63

Zipper Insertion .................................................................................................................65

Inserting a centered zipper ............................................................................................................................. 65

Inserting a side zipper ....................................................................................................................................66

Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape ............................................................................ 69

Stretch stitching .............................................................................................................................................. 69

Elastic attaching ............................................................................................................................................. 69

Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching .......................................................................... 71

Appliqué stitching ........................................................................................................................................... 72

Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching ..................................................................................................................... 73

Piecing ........................................................................................................................................................... 73

Quilting ........................................................................................................................................................... 74

Free-motion quilting ....................................................................................................................................... 75

Reinforcement Stitching .................................................................................................... 77

Triple stretch stitching .................................................................................................................................... 77

Bar tack stitching ............................................................................................................................................ 78

Decorative stitching .......................................................................................................... 80

Fagoting ......................................................................................................................................................... 81

Scallop stitching ............................................................................................................................................. 82

Smocking ....................................................................................................................................................... 82

Shell tuck stitching ......................................................................................................................................... 83

Joining ............................................................................................................................................................ 83

Heirloom stitching ........................................................................................................................................... 84

Using the side cutter (optional) ...................................................................................................................... 86

4. APPENDIX .....................................................................................................89

Stitch Settings ....................................................................................................................89

Utility stitches .................................................................................................................................................89

Maintenance ...................................................................................................................... 95

Restrictions on oiling ...................................................................................................................................... 95

Cleaning the machine surface ........................................................................................................................ 95

Cleaning the race ........................................................................................................................................... 95

Removing the needle plate ............................................................................................................................96

Troubleshooting ................................................................................................................97

Frequent troubleshooting topics ..................................................................................................................... 97

Upper thread tightened up ............................................................................................................................. 97

Tangled thread on wrong side of fabric .......................................................................................................... 98

Incorrect thread tension ............................................................................................................................... 100

Fabric is caught in the machine and cannot be removed .............................................................................101

When the thread became tangled under the bobbin winder seat ................................................................. 104

List of symptoms .......................................................................................................................................... 106

Error Messages ................................................................................................................ 110

Operation Beep ............................................................................................................... 111

Canceling the operation beep ...................................................................................................................... 111

Index ............................................................................................................................... 112

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Introduction

Thank you for choosing this product. Before using this sewing machine, carefully read “Important Safety Instructions”, and then study this manual for the correct operation of the various functions. In addition, after you have finished reading this manual, store it where it can quickly be accessed for future reference.

Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions

Machine

a Bobbin winder (page 15)

Use the bobbin winder when winding the bobbin.

b Spool pin (page 15, 20)

Place a spool of thread on the spool pin.

c Thread tension dial (page 49)

Use the thread tension dial to adjust the tension of the upper thread.

d Bobbin-winding thread guide and pretension disc

(page 15)

Pass the thread under this thread guide and around the pretension disc when winding the bobbin thread.

e Thread take-up lever (page 23)

Slide the thread into the thread take-up lever from the right side of slot to the left side of slot.

f Thread cutter (page 48)

Pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them.

g Flat bed attachment (page 10, 11, 39)

Store presser feet and bobbins in the flat bed attachment. Remove the flat bed attachment when sewing cylindrical pieces such as sleeve cuffs.

h Operation buttons and sewing speed controller

(page 10)

Use these buttons and the slide to operate the sewing machine.

i Operation panel (page 10)

Use to select stitches and various other stitch settings.

j Pattern selection dial (page 42)

Use to select the pattern to sew.

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k Handwheel

Turn the handwheel toward you to sew one stitch or to raise or lower the needle.

l Main power switch (page 14)

Use this switch to turn the sewing machine on and off.

m Power supply jack (page 14)

Insert the plug on the power cord into the power supply jack.

n Foot controller jack (page 45)

Insert the plug on the end of the foot controller cable into the foot controller jack.

o Feed dog position switch (page 75)

Use this switch to lower the feed dogs.

p Presser foot lever (page 20)

Raise and lower this lever to raise and lower the presser foot.

q Thread guide (page 16)

Pass the thread under this thread guide when winding the bobbin thread and threading the machine.

r Thread guide cover (page 16)

Pass the thread under this thread guide when winding the bobbin thread and threading the machine.

s Air vent

This vent allows the air surrounding the motor to circulate.

t Handle

Carry the sewing machine by its handle when transporting the machine.

Needle and presser foot section

a Needle threader lever

Use the needle threader to thread the needle.

b Buttonhole lever

Lower the buttonhole lever when sewing buttonholes and bar tacks.

c Presser foot holder

The presser foot is attached to the presser foot holder.

d Presser foot holder screw

Use the presser foot holder screw to hold the presser foot holder in place.

e Presser foot

The presser foot applies pressure to the fabric during sewing. Attach the appropriate presser foot for the selected stitch.

f Needle plate cover

Remove the needle plate cover to clean the bobbin case and race.

g Feed dogs

The feed dogs feed the fabric.

h Quick-set bobbin

Begin sewing without pulling up the bobbin thread.

i Bobbin cover

Remove the bobbin cover and then insert the bobbin into the bobbin case.

j Needle plate

The needle plate is marked with guides to help sew straight seams.

k Needle bar thread guide

Pass the upper thread through the needle bar thread guide.

l Presser foot lever

Raise and lower this lever to raise and lower the presser foot.

m Needle clamp screw

Use the needle clamp screw to hold the needle in place.

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Operation buttons

Note

a

b

The operation buttons help you to easily perform various basic sewing machine operations.

a Start/stop button

Press the start/stop button to start or stop sewing. The machine sews at a low speed at the beginning of sewing while the button is continuously pressed. When sewing is stopped, the needle is lowered into the fabric. For details, refer to “Starting to sew” (page 44).

b Reverse/reinforcement stitch button

Press the reverse/reinforcement stitch button to sew reverse stitches or reinforcement stitches. Reverse stitches are sewn by keeping the button pressed down to sew in the opposite direction. Reinforcement stitches

Operation panel

The operation panel, located on the front of the sewing machine, allows you to select a stitch and specify how the stitch will be sewn.

a LCD (liquid crystal display)

The number of the selected stitch ( to be used ( stitch width (mm) (

b Stitch length key (page 42)

Use to adjust the length of the stitch. (Press the “–” side for a shorter stitch length, or press the “+” side for a longer stitch length.)

c Stitch width key (page 43)

Use to adjust the width of the stitch. (Press the “–” side for a more narrow stitch width, or press the “+” side for a wider stitch width.)

d Automatic reverse/reinforcement stitch key (page 48)

The sewing machine can be set to automatically sew reverse or reinforcement stitches at the beginning and end of the stitching.

e Needle mode selection key (single/twin) (page 26)

Press this key to select the twin needle sewing setting. Each time this key is pressed, the setting switches between that for single needle sewing and for twin needle sewing.

2), the stitch length (mm) (3), and the

4) are displayed here.

1), the presser foot

are sewn by sewing 3 to 5 stitches on top of each other. For details, refer to“Securing the stitching” (page 46).

c Needle position button

Press the needle position button to raise or lower the needle. Pressing the button twice sews one stitch.

d Sewing speed controller

Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or right to adjust the sewing speed. Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to reduce the sewing speed, or slide the speed controller to the right to increase the sewing speed.

Flat bed attachment

The accessories are stored in the storage space in the flat bed attachment.

Swing the lid of the flat bed attachment

a

toward you to open the storage space.

a Flat bed attachment b Accessory compartment

X The bag of accessories is in the storage

space.

● Place the accessories in the bag before storing them in the flat bed attachment. If the accessories are not placed in the accessory bag when stored in the flat bed attachment, accessories may fall out and be lost or damaged.

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Accessories

Note

(For U.S.A. only)

● Foot controller: Model T This foot controller can be used on this machine model NS40.

● The screw for the presser foot holder is available through your authorized dealer. (Part code: XA4813-051)

After opening the box, check that the following accessories are included. If any item is missing or damaged, contact your dealer.

Included accessories

The following items should also be included in the box.

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9.

10.* 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18.

19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25.

26.**

No. Part Name

1 Buttonhole foot “A” XC2691-033 15 Screwdriver (small) X55468-021 2 Overcasting foot “G” XE6305-101 16 Spool cap (large) 130012-024 3 Monogramming foot “N” XD0810-031 17 Spool cap (medium) XE1372-001 4 Zipper foot “I” X59370-021 18 Spool cap (small) 130013-124 5 Zigzag foot “J” (on machine) XC3021-051 19 Extra spool pin XE2241-001 6 Blind stitch foot “R” XE2650-001 20 Spool net XA5523-020 7 Button fitting foot “M” XE2643-001 8 Seam ripper XZ5082-001 XC8816-021 (other areas)

9 Bobbin (4) SA156 SFB (XA5539-151) 22 Operation manual XE2417-201 10 Needle set X58358-021 23 Quick reference guide 11 Twin needle X59296-121 24 Accessory bag XC4487-021 12 Cleaning brush X59476-021 25 Disc-shaped screwdriver XC1074-051 13 Eyelet punch XZ5051-001 14 Screwdriver (large) XC8349-021

Americas

***Contact your dealer or the nearest authorized service center.

* 75/11 2 needles

90/14 2 needles 90/14 2 needles: Ball point needle (gold colored)

Part Code

Others

No. Part Name

21 Foot controller

26

Hard case Soft cover

** The type of case that is included

depends on the machine model.

Part Code

Americas

XD0501-121 (EU area)

Others

***

XE2446-001 XC1103-022

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■ Attaching the stitch pattern plate (for models equipped with the stitch pattern plate)

Memo

The stitch pattern plate shows the stitches and the stitch numbers. A letter (A, G, J, N or R) indicating the presser foot that should be used appears below the stitch number. Attach the stitch pattern plate to the stitch pattern plate holder, and then attach the holder to the handle of the sewing machine as shown in the illustration below.

Optional accessories

The following are available as optional accessories to be purchased separately.

1. 2. 3.

4. 5. 6. 7.

8. 9.

No. Part Name

1 Side cutter SA177

2 Quilting guide SA132

3 Wide table SA552

4 Walking foot SA140

5 Quilting foot SA129

6 Adjustable zipper/piping foot SA161

Americas

Part Code

Others

F054 (XC3879-152)

F016N (XC2215-052)

WT8 (XE2472-001)

F033N (XC2214-052)

F005N (XC1948-052)

F036N (XC1970-052)

10.

No. Part Name

7 Non stick foot SA114

8 Open toe foot

9 Stitch guide foot “P” SA160

10 1/4 inch quilting foot SA125

11 1/4 inch quilting foot with guide SA185

11.

Americas

SA186

SA147

● To obtain optional accessories or parts, contact the nearest authorized dealership.

● All specifications are correct at the time of printing. The part codes are subject to change without

notice.

● Visit your Brother dealer for a complete listing of optional accessories available for your machine.

Part Code

Others

F007N (XC1949-052)

F060 (XE1094-101)

F027N (XC1964-052)

F035N (XC1969-052)

F001N (XC1944-052)

F057 (XC7416-252)

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1 GETTING READY

WARNING

CAUTION

Turning the Machine On/Off

This section explains how to turn the sewing machine on and off.

Power supply precautions

Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the power supply.

● Use only regular household electricity for the power source. Using other power sources may

result in fire, electric shock, or damage to the machine.

● Make sure that the plugs on the power cord are firmly inserted into the electrical outlet and

the power supply jack on the machine.

● Do not insert the plug on the power cord into an electrical outlet that is in poor condition.

● Turn off the main power and remove the plug in the following circumstances:

• When you are away from the machine

• After using the machine

• When the power fails during use

• When the machine does not operate correctly due to a bad connection or a disconnection

• During electrical storms

1

● Use only the power cord included with this machine.

● Do not use extension cords or multi-plug adapters with many other appliances plugged in to

them. Fire or electric shock may result.

● Do not touch the plug with wet hands. Electric shock may result.

● When unplugging the machine, always turn off the main power first. Always grasp the plug to

remove it from the outlet. Pulling on the cord may damage the cord, or lead to fire or electric shock.

● Do not allow the power cord to be cut, damaged, modified, forcefully bent, pulled, twisted,

or bundled. Do not place heavy objects on the cord. Do not subject the cord to heat. These things may damage the cord and cause fire or electric shock. If the cord or plug is damaged, take the machine to your authorized dealer for repairs before continuing use.

● Unplug the power cord if the machine is not to be used for a long period of time. Otherwise a fire may result.

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GETTING READY —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

Memo

Note

Turning on the machine

Prepare the included power cord.

Make sure that the sewing machine is turned

a

off (the main power switch is set to “ ”), and then plug the power cord into the power supply jack on the right side of the machine.

Insert the plug of the power cord into a

b

household electrical outlet.

a Main power switch b Power cord

Press the right side of the main power switch

c

on the right side of the machine (set it to “|”).

Turning off the machine

When you are finished using the sewing machine, turn it off. In addition, before transporting the sewing machine to another location, be sure to turn it off.

Make sure that the machine is not sewing.

a

Press the left side of the main power switch on

b

the right side of the machine (set it to “ ”).

X The sewing lamp and the LCD go off

when the machine is turned off.

Unplug the power cord from the electrical

c

outlet.

Grasp the plug when unplugging the power cord.

Unplug the power cord from the power

d

supply jack.

X The sewing lamp and the LCD come on

when the machine is turned on.

● When the machine is turned on, the needle and the feed dogs will make sound when they move; this is not a malfunction.

● If a power outage occurs while the sewing machine is being operated, turn off the sewing machine and unplug the power cord. When restarting the sewing machine, follow the necessary procedure to correctly operate the machine. (For U.S.A. only)

● This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other). To reduce the risk of electrical shock, this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way.

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Preparing for Upper and Lower Threading

a Hook of the

bobbin-winding thread guide

b Pretention disk c Bobbin winder

shaft

d Bobbin

CAUTION

a This model b Other model c 11.5 mm (7/16 inch)

(actual size)

a

b

a

b

CAUTION

Winding the bobbin

Wind the thread onto the bobbin.

● Only use the bobbin (part code: SA156, SFB(XA5539-151)) designed specifically for this sewing machine. Use of any other bobbin may result in injuries or damage to the machine.

● The included bobbin was designed specifically for this sewing machine. If bobbins from other models are used, the machine will not operate correctly. Use only the included bobbin or bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156, SFB(XA5539-151)).

c

ab

Turn on the sewing machine.

a

Swing up the spool pin, and then remove the

d

spool cap.

1

b

c

Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder shaft so that the spring on the shaft fits into the notch in the bobbin.

a Notch b Bobbin winder shaft spring

Slide the bobbin winder shaft to the right until it snaps into place.

a Spool pin b Spool cap

Fully insert the spool of thread for the bobbin

e

onto the spool pin.

Slide the spool onto the pin so that the spool is horizontal and the thread unwinds to the front at the bottom.

● If the spool is not positioned so that the thread unwinds correctly, the thread may become tangled around the spool pin.

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GETTING READY —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

Memo

a

c

b

2

1

4

3

1

a

Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin.

f

With the slightly rounded side of the spool cap positioned toward the left, slide the spool cap onto the spool pin as far as possible to the right so that the spool is moved to the right end of the spool pin.

● When sewing with fine, cross-wound thread, use the small spool cap, and leave a small space between the cap and the spool.

a Spool cap (small) b Spool (cross-wound thread) c Space

While holding the spool with your right hand,

g

pull the thread with your left hand, and then pass the thread under the thread guide.

a Thread guide

Pass the thread under the thread guide cover

h

from the back to the front.

Hold the thread with your right hand so that there is no slack in the thread that is pulled out, and then pass the thread under the thread guide cover with your left hand.

● When using thread that winds off quickly, such as transparent nylon thread or metallic thread, place the spool net over the spool before placing the spool of thread onto the spool pin. If the spool net is too long, fold it to fit the size of the spool. When the spool net is used, the tension of the upper thread will slightly increase. Be sure to check the thread tension. For details, refer to “Adjusting the thread tension” (page 49).

a Spool net b Spool c Spool cap d Spool pin

a Thread guide cover

Pull the thread to the right, pass it under the

i

hook of the bobbin-winding thread guide, and then wind the thread counterclockwise between the discs, pulling it in as far as possible.

a Hook of the bobbin-winding thread guide b Pretension disk

16

While using your left hand to hold the thread

Memo

CAUTION

j

that was passed through the bobbin-winding thread guide, use your right hand to wind the end of the thread clockwise around the bobbin five or six times.

Pass the end of the thread through the slit in

k

the bobbin winder seat, and then pull the thread to the right to cut it.

a Slit in bobbin winder seat (with built-in

cutter)

X The thread is cut to a suitable length.

● Be sure to cut the thread as described. If the bobbin is wound without cutting the thread using the cutter built into the slit in the bobbin winder seat, the bobbin may not be wound correctly. In addition, the thread may become tangled in the bobbin or the needle may bend or break when the bobbin thread starts to run out.

Press (start/stop button) once.

m

When the foot controller is plugged in, press down on the foot controller.

X The bobbin starts spinning and the

thread is wound around the bobbin.

a Start/stop button

When the bobbin winding becomes slow,

n

press (start/stop button) once to stop the machine. When the foot controller is plugged in, remove your foot from the foot controller.

● When the bobbin winding becomes slow, stop the machine, otherwise the sewing machine may be damaged.

Cut the thread, slide the bobbin winder shaft

o

to the left, and then remove the bobbin from the shaft.

1

Slide the sewing speed controller to the right

l

to increase the bobbin winding speed and slide to left to decrease.

a Sewing speed controller

● When the sewing machine is started or the handwheel is turned after winding the thread around the bobbin, the machine will make a clicking sound; this is not a malfunction.

● The needle cannot move (sewing is not possible) while the bobbin winder shaft is moved to the right.

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GETTING READY —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

CAUTION

ab

CAUTION

Turn off the sewing machine (set it to “ ”).

Installing the bobbin

Install the bobbin wound with thread.

● Use a bobbin that has been correctly wound, otherwise the needle may break or the thread tension will be incorrect.

● The bobbin was designed specifically for this sewing machine. If bobbins from other models are used, the machine will not operate correctly. Use only the included bobbin or bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156, SFB(XA5539-151)).

c

ab

a This model b Other model c 11.5 mm (7/16 inch) (actual size)

● Before installing the bobbin or replacing the needle, be sure to turn off the sewing machine, otherwise injuries may occur if the start/stop button is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.

b

Slide the latch on the right side of the bobbin

c

cover to the right, and then remove the bobbin cover.

a Bobbin cover b Latch

Insert the bobbin with your right hand so that

d

the end of the thread is on the left, and then, after pulling the thread firmly around the tab with your left hand as shown, lightly pull the thread to guide it through the slit.

Press (needle position button) once or

a

twice to raise the needle, and then raise the presser foot lever.

a Needle position button

18

a Tab

● Be sure to hold down the bobbin with your finger and install the bobbin so that the thread unwinds in the correct direction, otherwise the needle may break or the thread tension will be incorrect.

While lightly holding down bobbin with your

Memo

1

AA

B

e

right hand as shown, guide the thread through the slit (1 and 2).

• At this time, check that the bobbin easily rotates counterclockwise.

Then, pull the thread toward you to cut it with the cutter (3).

a Slit b Cutter (Cut the thread with the cutter.)

• Make sure that the thread is correctly passed through the flat spring of the bobbin case. If it is not inserted correctly, reinstall the bobbin.

Reattach the bobbin cover.

f

Insert the tab in the lower-left corner of the bobbin cover (A), and then press down on the right side (B).

● You can begin sewing without pulling up the bobbin thread. If you wish to pull up the bobbin thread before starting to sew, finish threading the machine, and then pull up the thread according to the procedure in “Pulling up the bobbin thread” (page 52).

1

a Flat spring

●

The direction for feeding the bobbin thread is indicated by marks around the needle plate cover. Be sure to thread the machine as indicated.

19

GETTING READY —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

a Spool pin b Mark on handwheel

CAUTION

Threading the upper thread

In this section, the procedures for installing the spool for the upper thread and threading the needle are described.

● When threading the machine, carefully follow the instructions. If the upper threading is not performed correctly, the thread may become tangled and the needle may bend or break.

● The needle threader can be used with sewing machine needles 75/11 through 100/16.

● Use appropriate thread and needle combinations. For details on appropriate needle and thread

combinations, refer to “Needle types and their uses” (page 30).

● Thread with a thickness of 130/20 or thicker cannot be used with the needle threader.

● The needle threader cannot be used with the wing needle or the twin needle.

● If the needle threader cannot be used, refer to “Threading the needle manually (without using the

needle threader)” (page 26).

Turn on the sewing machine.

a

Raise the presser foot lever.

b

a Presser foot lever

● If the presser foot is not raised, the sewing machine cannot be threaded correctly.

20

Press (needle position button) once or

a

b

CAUTION

c

twice to raise the needle.

a Needle position button

• If the needle is not correctly raised, the sewing machine cannot be threaded. Check that the mark on the handwheel points up as shown in the illustration below. If the handwheel is not in this position, be sure to press the needle position button to raise the needle before continuing the procedure.

a

Fully insert the spool for the upper thread

e

onto the spool pin

Slide the spool onto the pin so that the spool is horizontal and the thread unwinds to the front at the bottom.

● If the spool is not positioned so that the thread unwinds correctly, the thread may become tangled around the spool pin and the thread or needle may break.

● If the spool cap that is used is smaller than the spool, the thread may catch, for example, on the notch in the spool, or the needle may break.

1

a Mark on handwheel

Swing up the spool pin, and then remove the

d

spool cap.

a Spool pin b Spool cap

21

GETTING READY —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

Memo

a

c

b

2

1

4

3

1

a

Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin.

f

● When sewing with fine, cross-wound thread, use the small spool cap, and leave a small space between the cap and the spool.

a Spool cap (small) b Spool (cross-wound thread) c Space

● When using thread that winds off quickly, such as transparent nylon thread or metallic thread, place the spool net over the spool before placing the spool of thread onto the spool pin. If the spool net is too long, fold it to fit the size of the spool. When the spool net is used, the tension of the upper thread will slightly increase. Be sure to check the thread tension. For details, refer to “Adjusting the thread tension” (page 49).

While holding the spool with your right hand,

g

pull the thread with your left hand, and then pass the thread under the thread guide.

a Thread guide

Pass the thread under the thread guide cover

h

from the back to the front. Hold the thread with your right hand so that there is no slack in the thread that is pulled out, and then pass the thread under the thread guide cover with your left hand.

a Thread guide cover

Thread the machine by guiding the thread

i

along the path indicated by the number on the machine.

22

a Spool net b Spool c Spool cap d Spool pin

Slide the thread into the thread take-up lever

Memo

a

j

from the right to the left.

a Thread take-up lever

● If the needle is not raised, the thread takeup lever cannot be threaded. Be sure to press the needle position button to raise the needle before threading the thread take-up lever.

Pass the thread behind the needle bar thread

k

guide.

The thread can easily be passed behind the needle bar thread guide by holding the thread in your left hand, and pulling the thread into the guide from right to left.

Threading the needle

This section describes how to thread the needle.

■ For models equipped with the thread guide disk

Pull the end of the thread, which has been

a

passed through the needle bar thread guide, to the left (A), and then firmly pull it from the front (B) through the slit in the thread guide disk. Make sure that the thread passes the notch of the thread guide.

a

B

A

b

1

a

a Needle bar thread guide

Lower the presser foot lever.

l

a Presser foot lever

a Thread guide disk b Notch of the thread guide

23

GETTING READY —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

Note

a

1

a

CAUTION

Cut the thread with the thread cutter on the

b

left side of the machine.

a Thread cutter

● When using thread that quickly winds off the spool, such as metallic thread, it may be difficult to thread the needle if the thread is cut. Therefore, instead of using the thread cutter, pull out about 80 mm (approx. 3 inches) of thread after passing it through the thread guide disks (marked “7”).

Lower the needle threader lever on the left

c

side of the machine, and then slowly return the lever to its original position.

a Needle threader lever

X The thread is passed through the eye of

the needle.

● If the needle was not completely threaded, but a loop in the thread was formed in the eye of the needle, carefully pull the loop through the eye of the needle to pull out the end of the thread.

a 80 mm (3 inches) or more

24

● When pulling out the thread, do not pull it with extreme force, otherwise the needle may break or bend.

Raise the presser foot lever, pass the end of

Note

a

CAUTION

a

d

the thread through the presser foot, and then pull out about 5 cm (2 inches) of thread toward the rear of the machine.

Catch the thread on the hook as shown below.

b

1

a 5 cm (2 inches)

X The upper threading is finished.

Now that the upper threading and the lower threading are finished, you are ready to begin sewing.

● If the needle is not raised, the needle threader cannot thread the needle. Be sure to press (needle position button) to raise the needle before using the needle threader.

■ For models without the thread guide disk

While lowering the needle threader lever,

a

hook the thread onto the guide.

a Needle threader lever

Raise the needle threader lever, and then pull

c

the end of the thread which passed through the eye of the needle.

● Be careful not to pull on the thread with force or it may bend the needle.

Raise the presser foot lever, pass the end of

d

the thread through the presser foot, and then pull out about 5 cm (2 inches) of thread toward the rear of the machine.

a Needle threader b Thread c Guide

a 5 cm (2 inches)

X The upper threading is finished.

25

GETTING READY —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

a

CAUTION

Threading the needle manually (without using the needle threader)

When using specialty thread, such as transparent nylon thread or metallic thread, a wing needle or a twin needle which cannot be used with the needle threader, thread the needle as described below.

Thread the machine to the needle bar thread

a

guide.

• For details, refer to “Threading the upper thread” (page 20).

Lower the presser foot lever.

b

a Pressor foot lever

Pass the thread through the eye of the needle

c

from front to back.

Using the twin needle

With the twin needle, you can sew two parallel lines of the same stitch with two different threads. Both upper threads should have the same thickness and quality. Be sure to use the twin needle and the extra spool pin. For details on the stitches that can be sewn with the twin needle, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 89).

ab

a Twin needle b Extra spool pin

● Only use the twin needle (part code: X59296-

121). Use of any other needle may bend the needle or damage the machine.

● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.

● The needle threader cannot be used with the twin needle. If the needle threader is used with the twin needle, the sewing machine may be damaged.

● Do not touch the (start/stop button),

(needle position button) or (reverse/ reinforcement stitch button). If one of the buttons is accidentally pressed, the machine will begin sewing and your finger may be pricked with the needle or the needle may break.

Raise the presser foot lever, pass the end of

d

the thread through the presser foot, and then pull out about 5 cm (2 inches) of thread toward the rear of the machine.

Install the twin needle.

a

• For details on installing a needle, refer to “Replacing the needle” (page 31).

Thread the upper thread for the left needle.

b

• For details, refer to steps “Threading the upper thread” (page 20).

Manually thread the left needle with the

c

upper thread.

Pass the thread through the eye of the needle from the front to the back.

a through j of

26

Insert the extra spool pin onto the end of the

Memo

a Bobbin winder shaft b Extra spool pin c Thread spool

1

CAUTION

d

bobbin winder shaft.

Install the thread spool and thread the upper

e

thread.

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

h

• For details on changing the presser foot, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 33).

● When using the twin needle, be sure to attach zigzag foot “J”, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.

Turn on the sewing machine.

i

X The LCD comes on.

1

● When setting the thread spool, set it so that the thread winds off from the front of the spool.

Thread the upper thread for the right side in

f

the same way that the upper thread for the left side was threaded.

a Thread guide cover

• For details, refer to step a through j of

“Threading the upper thread” (page 20).

Without passing the thread through the

g

needle bar thread guide, manually thread the right needle.

Pass the thread through the eye of the needle from the front to the back.

Select a stitch.

j

• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to “Selecting a stitch” (page 42).

• For details on the stitches that can be sewn with the twin needle, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 89).

● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.

Press (Needle mode selection key).

k

X The twin needle can now be used.

• To return to single needle sewing, press (Needle mode selection key).

• Even after the sewing machine is turned off, the twin needle setting is not cancelled.

● When using the twin needle, be sure to select the twin needle setting, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.

27

GETTING READY —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

Note

CAUTION

Start sewing.

l

• For details on starting to sew, refer to “Starting to sew” (page 44).

X Two lines of stitching are sewn parallel

to each other.

● When using the twin needle, the stitches

may become bunched together, depending on the types of thread and fabric that are used. If this occurs, increase the stitch length. For details on adjusting the stitch length, refer to “Adjusting the stitch length and width” (page 42).

● When changing the sewing direction, press (needle position button) to raise the

needle from the fabric, and then raise the presser foot lever and turn the fabric. Otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.

● Do not try turning the fabric with the twin

needle left down in the fabric, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.

28

Replacing the Needle

CAUTION

This section provides information on sewing machine needles.

Needle precautions

Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the handling of the needle. Failure to observe these precautions is extremely dangerous, for example, if the needle breaks and fragments are dispersed. Be sure to read and carefully follow the instructions below.

● Only use home sewing machine needles. Use of any other needle may bend the needle or damage the

machine.

● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.

1

29

GETTING READY —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

Note

Memo

CAUTION

Needle types and their uses

The sewing machine needle that should be used depends on the fabric and thread thickness. Refer to the following table when choosing the thread and needle appropriate for the fabric that you wish to sew.

Fabric Type/Application

Medium weight

fabrics

Thin fabrics

Thick fabrics

Stretch

fabrics

Easily frayed fabrics

Thread

Type Size

Broadcloth Cotton thread

60–90

Taffeta Synthetic thread

Flannel, Gabardine Silk thread 50

Lawn Cotton thread

60–90

Georgette Synthetic thread

Challis, Satin Silk thread 50

30 100/16

Denim Cotton thread

50

Corduroy Synthetic thread

50-60

Tweed Silk thread

Jersey

Thread for knits 50–60

Tricot

Cotton thread

50–90

Size of Needle

75/11–90/14

65/9–75/11

90/14–100/16

Ball point needle

75/11–90/14

(golden colored)

65/9–90/14Synthetic thread

● Never use a thread of weight 20 or lower. It may cause malfunctions.

● The smaller the thread number, the thicker the thread, and the larger the needle number, the thicker the needle.

● Use the ball point needle when sewing on stretch fabrics or fabrics where skipped stitches easily occur.

● Use a 90/14 to 100/16 needle with transparent nylon threads, regardless of the fabric being sewn.

30

For top-stitching

Silk thread 50

Synthetic thread

Silk thread

● The appropriate fabric, thread and needle combinations are shown in the table above. If the combination of the fabric, thread and needle is not correct, particularly when sewing thick fabrics (such as denim) with thin needles (such as 65/9 to 75/11), the needle may bend or break. In addition, the stitching may be uneven or puckered or there may be skipped stitches.

30 100/16

50–60 90/11–90/14

Checking the needle

a

b

a

CAUTION

a

CAUTION

Replacing the needle

Sewing with a bent needle is extremely dangerous since the needle may break while the machine is being operated. Before using the needle, place the flat side of the needle on a flat surface and check that the distance between the needle and the flat surface is even.

a Flat side b Needle type marking

a Flat surface

Replace the needle as described below. Use the screwdriver and a correct needle, as described in “Checking the needle”.

Press (needle position button) once or

a

twice to raise the needle.

a Needle position button

Turn off the sewing machine.

b

1

If the distance between the needle and the flat surface is not even, the needle is bent. Do not use a bent needle.

a Flat surface

● Before replacing the needle, be sure to turn off the sewing machine, otherwise injuries may occur if the start/stop button is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.

Lower the presser foot lever.

c

a Presser foot lever

● Before replacing the needle, place fabric or paper under the presser foot to prevent the needle from falling into the hole in the needle plate.

31

GETTING READY —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

a

CAUTION

Loosen the needle clamp screw and remove

d

the needle.

Hold the needle with your left hand, and then turn the screwdriver counterclockwise with your right hand.

b

a

a Needle clamp screw b Screwdriver

• Do not apply extreme force when loosening or tightening the needle clamp screw, otherwise damage to the machine may result.

While holding the needle with your left hand,

f

tighten the needle clamp screw.

Turn the screwdriver clockwise.

Install the twin needle in the same way.

● Be sure to insert the needle until it touches the needle stopper and securely tighten the needle clamp screw with the screwdriver, otherwise the needle may break or damage may result.

With the flat side of the needle toward the

e

rear of the machine, insert the needle until it touches the needle stopper.

a Needle stopper

32

Replacing the Presser Foot

CAUTION

a

b

Presser foot precautions

Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the presser feet.

● Use the presser foot appropriate for the type of stitch that you wish to sew, otherwise the needle may hit the presser foot, causing the needle to bend or break.

● Only use presser feet designed specifically for this sewing machine. Use of any other presser foot may result in injuries or damage to the machine.

Raise the presser foot lever.

Replacing the presser foot

Replace the presser foot as described below.

Press (needle position button) once or

a

twice to raise the needle.

a Needle position button

Turn off the sewing machine.

b

c

a Presser foot lever

Press the black button at the back of the

d

presser foot holder to remove the presser foot.

1

●

Before replacing the presser foot, be sure to turn off the sewing machine, otherwise injuries may occur if the start/stop button is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.

●

Make sure that the presser foot is installed in the correct direction, otherwise the needle may strike the presser foot, causing it to break and cause injuries.

a Black button b Presser foot holder

33

GETTING READY —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

Memo

b

c

d

a Presser foot lever b Presser foot holder c Notch d Pin

Place the presser foot to be installed below the

e

holder so that the presser foot pin is aligned with the notch in the holder.

Position the presser foot so the letter indicating the presser foot type (J, A, etc.) is positioned to be read.

a

J

b

c

a Presser foot holder b Notch c Pin d Presser foot type

● The code for the presser foot to be used with each stitch appears in the LCD. For details on selecting a stitch, refer to “Selecting a stitch” (page 42).

Slowly lower the presser foot lever so that the

f

presser foot pin snaps into the notch in the presser foot holder.

4

Raise the presser foot lever to check that the

g

presser foot is securely attached.

Removing the presser foot holder

Remove the presser foot holder when cleaning the sewing machine or when installing the optional walking foot.

Remove the presser foot.

a

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 33).

Loosen the presser foot holder screw, and

b

then remove the presser foot holder.

Turn the screwdriver counterclockwise.

a

X The presser foot is attached.

34

a

b

c

a Screwdriver b Presser foot holder c Screw

■ Attaching the presser foot holder

Note

a

b

CAUTION

Align the presser foot holder with the presser

a

bar.

a Presser bar b Presser foot holder

Using the optional walking foot

With the optional walking foot, both pieces of fabric are fed evenly by the feed dogs and the teeth on the presser foot. This is useful when sewing fabrics that are hard to feed such as vinyl and leather and when sewing fabrics that easily slip such as velvets or when quilting. Use the screwdriver to attach the walking foot.

1

Hold up the presser foot holder with your

b

right hand, and tighten the screw.

With your left hand, turn the screwdriver clockwise.

● If the presser foot holder is not correctly installed, the thread tension will be incorrect.

● Be sure to securely tighten the presser foot holder screw, otherwise the presser foot holder may fall off and the needle may strike it, causing the needle to bend or break.

● Thread the needle manually when using the walking foot, or only attach the walking foot after threading the needle using the needle threader.

■ Attaching the walking foot

Remove the presser foot holder.

a

• For details, refer to “Removing the presser

foot holder” (page 34).

Hook the connecting fork of the walking foot

b

onto the needle clamp screw.

a

b

a Connecting fork b Needle clamp screw

35

GETTING READY —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

Note

Memo

CAUTION

a

Lower the presser foot lever, insert the presser

c

foot holder screw, and then tighten the screw with the screwdriver.

a

a Presser foot holder screw

● Be sure to securely tighten the screw with the screwdriver, otherwise the needle may touch the presser foot, causing it to bend or break.

● Before starting to sew, slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.

● When sewing with the walking foot, sew at a speed between slow and medium.

Raise the presser foot lever.

c

a Presser foot lever

X The presser foot is raised.

With a screwdriver, loosen the presser foot

d

holder screw, and then remove the walking foot.

a

a Presser foot holder screw

Attach the presser foot holder.

e

• For details, refer to “Removing the presser foot holder” (page 34).

■ Removing the walking foot

Press (needle position button) once or

a

twice to raise the needle.

a Needle position button

X The needle is raised.

Turn off the sewing machine.

b

● Only the straight stitch (with reinforcement

stitching) and the zigzag stitch can be used with the walking foot. For details on the stitches, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 89).

● The optional walking foot is available

through your Brother dealer.

36

Useful Functions

Memo

Functions useful in improving sewing efficiency are described below.

Changing the needle stop position

Normally, the sewing machine is set to leave the needle in the fabric when sewing is stopped. Instead, the machine can be set to leave the needle raised when sewing is stopped.

Turn off the sewing machine.

a

While pressing (automatic reverse/

b

reinforcement stitch key), turn on the sewing machine.

When machine beeps twice, release the

automatic reverse/reinforcement stitch key.

■ When the needle stops in the raised position

The needle stops in the raised position when sewing ends.

● After sewing is finished, the fabric can be

pulled out.

■ When the needle stops in the lowered position

The needle stops in the lowered position when sewing ends.

1

a Automatic reverse/reinforcement stitch key

X The needle stop position changes to the

raised position.

● Perform the same operation to change the needle stop position to the lowered position.

● Use this position to change the sewing direction (“Changing the sewing direction” (page 50)) or to stop while sewing.

37

GETTING READY —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

Memo

Changing the initial needle position

Normally, the straight stitch (left needle position) is automatically selected when the sewing machine is turned on. The machine can be set so that the straight stitch (center needle position) is automatically selected when it is turned on.

Turn off the sewing machine.

a

While pressing (needle mode selection

b

key), turn on the sewing machine.

When the machine beeps twice, release the needle mode selection key.

a Needle mode selection key (single/twin)

X The initial needle position is changed

to the center needle position.

● The specified initial needle position is maintained even after the machine is turned off.

● Perform the same operation to change the initial needle position to the left needle position.

38

Sewing Cylindrical or Large Pieces

When sewing cylindrical or large pieces of fabric, remove the flat bed attachment.

Stitching cylindrical pieces

Sewing large pieces of fabric

1

Removing the flat bed attachment makes it easier to sew cylindrical pieces such as cuffs and pant legs.

Pull the flat bed attachment off to the left.

a

X With the flat bed attachment removed,

free-arm sewing is possible.

Slide the part that you wish to sew onto the

b

arm, and then sew from the top.

The optional wide table makes sewing large pieces of fabric easier.

Open up the legs at the bottom of the wide

a

table.

Pull out the four legs until they snap into place.

Pull the flat bed attachment off to the left.

b

When you are finished with free-arm sewing,

c

install the flat bed attachment back in its original position.

39

GETTING READY —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

Note

1

2

CAUTION

Install the wide table.

c

Keeping the wide table level, fully slide it into place. The lower right corner section of the wide table extends over the front section of the sewing machine bed.

a Lower right corner b Sewing machine bed

● The optional wide table is available through your Brother dealer.

Turn the screw at the bottom of each leg to

d

adjust their height so the wide table will be level with the sewing machine bed.

Install the flat bed attachment back in its

f

original position.

● Do not move the sewing machine while the wide table is attached, otherwise damage or injuries may occur.

When you are finished using the wide table,

e

remove it.

While slightly lifting up the wide table, pull it off to the left.

40

2 SEWING BASICS

CAUTION

Starting to Sew

Basic sewing operations are described below. Before operating the sewing machine, read the following precautions.

● While the machine is in operation, pay special attention to the needle. In addition, keep your hands away from all moving parts such as the needle, handwheel, and thread take-up lever, otherwise injuries may occur.

● Do not pull or push the fabric too hard while sewing, otherwise injuries may occur or the needle may break.

● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.

● Use the correct presser foot for the type of stitch that you wish to sew, otherwise the needle may hit the

presser foot, causing the needle to bend or break.

● When sewing, make sure that the needle does not strike basting pins, otherwise the needle may break or bend.

● Before replacing the presser foot, be sure to turn off the sewing machine, otherwise injuries may occur if the start/stop button is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.

Sewing procedure

2

The basic sewing procedure is shown below.

Turn on the

1

machine.

2 Select a stitch.

Attach the presser

3

foot.

4 Start sewing.

Turn on the sewing machine. For details, refer to “Turning on the machine” (page 14).

Select a stitch appropriate for the application. For details, refer to “Selecting a stitch” (page 42).

Attach the presser foot that is appropriate for the type of stitch that you wish to sew. For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 33).

Position the fabric, and then start sewing. When sewing is finished, cut the threads. For details, refer to “Positioning the fabric” (page 43), “Starting to sew” (page 44), and “Cutting the thread” (page 48).

↓

41

SEWING BASICS —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

Memo

a

–

+

Selecting a stitch

Select each stitch by using the pattern selection dial.

Turn on the sewing machine.

a

Turn the pattern selection dial to select the

b

stitch to be sewn. Turn the dial to the right to increase the number, or turn the dial to the left to decrease the number.

Adjusting the stitch length and width

■ Example: To select stitch

Turn the pattern selection dial until “05”

a

appears in the LCD.

Press “+” or “–” side of (stitch length

b

key) to adjust the stitch length.

a Stitch length key b Stitch length c Fine d Coarse

a Pattern selection dial

X The stitch appears in the LCD.

Attach the presser foot indicated in the LCD.

c

a Presser foot type

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 33).

● The presser foot to be used is indicated by

the letter (J, A, etc.) that appears above the stitch number.

If necessary, adjust the stitch width and stitch

d

length.

• For details on making adjustments, refer to the next section, “Adjusting the stitch length and width”

42

Press “+” or “–” side of (stitch width

Memo

–

+

CAUTION

c

key) to adjust the stitch width.

a Stitch width key b Stitch width c Narrow d Wide

● When the stitch length or stitch width is

changed from the default setting, around

or disappears from the LCD. When the stitch length or stitch width is reset back to the default setting, reappears around or in the LCD.

● If the stitch width of the selected stitch cannot be adjusted, “--” appears to the right of in the LCD.

Positioning the fabric

Be sure that the fabric pieces are sewn in the correct order and that the right and wrong sides of the fabric are aligned correctly.

Turn on the sewing machine.

a

The straight stitch (left needle position) is automatically selected.

Press (needle position button) once or

b

twice to raise the needle.

2

● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn the handwheel toward you and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.

● If the stitches become bunched together, increase the stitch length. Continuing to sew with the stitches bunched together may result in the needle bending or breaking.

a Needle position button

Place the fabric under the presser foot.

c

• If the seam allowance is positioned on the right side, sewing in a straight line is easier and the extra fabric does not get in the way.

43

SEWING BASICS —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

Note

a

While holding the end of the thread and the

d

fabric with your left hand, turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) with your right hand to lower the needle to the starting point of the stitching.

Starting to sew

Once you are ready to start sewing, you can start the sewing machine. The sewing speed can be adjusted using either the sewing speed controller or the foot controller.

Important:

● When the foot controller is plugged in,

(start/stop button) cannot be used to start sewing.

■ Using the operation buttons

Sewing can be started and stopped using the operation button (start/stop button).

Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or

a

right to select the desired sewing speed.

Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to sew at a slower speed, or slide the speed controller to the right to sew at a faster speed.

Lower the presser foot lever.

e

a Presser foot lever

X The fabric is now positioned to be

sewn.

a Sewing speed controller

44

Press (start/stop button) once.

b

a Start/stop button The machine starts sewing.

• If you continue pressing the (start/stop button) immediately after the sewing starts, the machine will sew at a slow speed.

When the end of the stitching is reached,

c

press (start/stop button) once.

X The machine stops sewing with the

needle down (in the fabric).

When you are finished sewing, raise the

d

needle, and then cut the threads.

X For details, refer to “Cutting the thread”

(page 48).

■ Using the foot controller

Sewing can be started and stopped using the foot controller.

Insert the foot controller plug into its jack on

b

the side of the sewing machine.

a Foot controller jack

Turn on the sewing machine.

c

Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or

d

right to select the desired sewing speed.

Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to sew at a slower speed, or slide the speed controller to the right to sew at a faster speed.

2

Turn off the sewing machine.

a

When connecting the foot controller, be sure to turn off the sewing machine in order to prevent the machine from accidentally being started.

a Sewing speed controller

• The speed set using the sewing speed controller will be the foot controller’s maximum sewing speed.

45

SEWING BASICS —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

Memo

a

b

CAUTION

Once you are ready to start sewing, slowly

e

press down on the foot controller.

Pressing down on the foot controller increases the sewing speed; releasing the pressure on the foot controller decreases the sewing speed.

a Slower b Faster

• Slowly press down on the foot controller. Pressing it down hard starts sewing too quickly.

Securing the stitching

When sewing with the straight stitch, for example, at the end of an opening or where seams do not overlap, use reverse stitching or reinforcement stitching to secure the end of the thread.

Lower the needle into the fabric at the

a

beginning of the stitching, and then lower the presser foot lever.

X The machine starts sewing.

When the end of the stitching is reached,

f

completely release the foot controller.

X The machine stops sewing with the

needle lowered (in the fabric).

When you are finished sewing, raise the

g

needle, and then cut the threads.

• For details, refer to “Cutting the thread” (page 48).

Press (start/stop button) or press down on

b

the foot controller.

At this time, if (start/stop button) is held down, the machine sews at a low speed.

● When the foot controller is plugged in,

(start/stop button) cannot be used to start sewing.

● When sewing is stopped, the needle

remains lowered (in the fabric). The machine can be set so that the needle will stay up when sewing is stopped. For details on setting the machine so that the needle stays up when sewing is stopped, refer to “Changing the needle stop position” (page 37).

● Do not allow thread or dust to accumulate in the foot controller, otherwise a fire or an electric shock may occur.

● Do not place objects on the foot controller, otherwise damage to the machine or injuries may occur.

● If the machine is not to be used for a long period of time, unplug the foot controller, otherwise a fire or an electric shock may occur.

a Start/stop button

• For details, refer to “Starting to sew” (page 44).

X The machine starts sewing.

46

After sewing 3 to 5 stitches, press

Memo

1

2

5

6

4

3

1

2

ba

c

(reverse/reinforcement stitch button).

Keep (reverse/reinforcement stitch button) held down until you reach the beginning of the stitching.

a Reverse/reinforcement stitch button While (reverse/reinforcement stitch button)

is held down, reverse stitches are sewn.

After sewing back to the beginning of the

d

stitching, release (reverse/reinforcement stitch button).

X The machine stops sewing.

Press (start/stop button), or press down on

e

the foot controller.

X The machine starts sewing in the

normal sewing direction.

After 3 to 5 reverse stitches have been sewn,

g

release (reverse/reinforcement stitch button).

X The machine stops sewing.

Press (start/stop button), or press down on

h

the foot controller.

At this time, if (start/stop button) is held down, the machine sews at a slow speed.

X The machine starts sewing in the

normal sewing direction.

After sewing to the end of the stitching, stop

i

the sewing machine.

Press (start/stop button) or release foot controller.

2

a Beginning of stitching b End of stitching

■ Sewing reinforcement stitches

When the end of the stitching is reached,

f

press (reverse/reinforcement stitch button).

Keep (reverse/reinforcement stitch button) held down until 3 to 5 reverse stitches are sewn.

When sewing stitches other than straight or zigzag stitches that are secured with reverse stitching, pressing (reverse/reinforcement stitch button) sews reinforcement stitches, 3 to 5 stitches on top of each other.

X While (reverse/reinforcement stitch

button) is held down, reverse stitches are sewn.

a Reverse stitching b Reinforcement stitching

● Whether reverse stitches or reinforcement

stitches are sewn depends on the stitch that is selected. For details, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 89).

47

SEWING BASICS —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

a

Cutting the thread

When you wish to finish the stitching and the

a

sewing machine is stopped, press (needle position button) once to raise the needle.

a Needle position button

X The needle is raised.

Raise the presser foot lever.

b

a Presser foot lever

Pull the fabric to the left side of the machine,

c

and then pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them.

Automatically sewing reverse/ reinforcement stitches

The sewing machine can be set to automatically sew reverse or reinforcement stitches at the beginning and end of the stitching. With straight stitches and zigzag stitches, reverse stitches, not reinforcement stitches, are automatically sewn.

Select a stitch.

a

• For details, refer to “Selecting a stitch” (page 42).

Press (automatic reverse/reinforcement

b

stitch key).

a Automatic reverse/reinforcement stitch key

X appears in the LCD.

• This step is not necessary if a stitch such as those for sewing buttonholes and bar tacks is selected where reinforcement stitches are automatically sewn.

• Press (automatic reverse/reinforcement stitch key) again to cancel automatic reverse/ reinforcement stitching.

Position the fabric under the presser foot, and

c

turn the handwheel toward you to insert the needle into the fabric.

a Thread cutter

Press (start/stop button) once.

d

a Start/stop button

X After reverse/reinforcement stitches are

sewn, the machine starts sewing.

48

After reaching the end of the stitching, press

Memo

Note

a

b

c

d

a Wrong side of

fabric

b Right side of fabric c Upper thread d Bobbin thread

a

b

c

e

d

a Wrong side of

fabric

b Right side of fabric c Upper thread d Bobbin thread e The bobbin thread

is visible from the right side of the fabric.

a

b

c

e

d

a Wrong side of

fabric

b Right side of fabric c Upper thread d Bobbin thread e The upper thread is

visible from the wrong side of the fabric.

e

the reverse/reinforcement stitch button once.

a Reverse/reinforcement stitch button

• This step is not necessary if a stitch such as those for sewing buttonholes and bar tacks is selected where reinforcement stitches are automatically sewn.

X After reverse/reinforcement stitches are

sewn, the sewing machine stops.

■ Correct thread tension

The upper thread and the bobbin thread should cross near the center of the fabric. Only the upper thread should be visible from the right side of the fabric, and only the bobbin thread should be visible from the wrong side of the fabric.

2

■ Upper thread is too tight

If the bobbin thread is visible from the right side of the fabric, the upper thread is too tight.

● Reverse/reinforcement stitches WILL NOT

be sewn until (reverse/reinforcement stitch button) is pressed. (start/stop button) may be pressed to stop stitching when needed such as for pivoting corners.

Adjusting the thread tension

The tensions of the upper thread and of the bobbin thread (thread tension) should be adjusted so that they are equal. If the thread and needle combination is correct for the type of fabric being sewn (according to “Needle types and their uses” (page 30)), the thread tension will automatically be adjusted to the appropriate setting. However, if the preset thread tension does not give the desired result or if you are sewing with special thread or on special fabric, use the thread tension dial to increase or decrease the tension of the upper thread.

● If the upper thread is not threaded correctly

or the bobbin is not installed correctly, it may not be possible to set the correct thread tension. If the correct thread tension cannot be achieved, rethread the upper thread and insert the bobbin correctly.

Turn the thread tension dial to the left to loosen the upper thread.

■ Upper thread is too loose

If the upper thread is visible from the wrong side of the fabric, the upper thread is too loose.

Turn the thread tension dial to the right to tighten the upper thread.

49

SEWING BASICS —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

a

CAUTION

Useful Sewing Tips

Various ways to achieve better sewing results are described below. Refer to these tips when sewing.

Trial sewing

After a stitch is selected, the machine automatically sets the stitch width and length for the stitch that was selected. However, a trial piece of fabric should be sewn since, depending on the type of fabric and stitching being sewn, the desired results may not be achieved. For the trial sewing, use a piece of fabric and thread that are the same as those used for your project, and check the thread tension and stitch length and width. Since the results differ depending on the type of stitching and the number of fabric layers sewn, perform the trial sewing under the same conditions that will be used with your project.

Changing the sewing direction

When stitching reaches a corner, stop the

a

sewing machine.

Leave the needle lowered (in the fabric). If the needle remained up when the machine stopped sewing, press (needle position button).

Raise the presser foot lever, and then turn the

b

fabric.

Turn the fabric using the needle as a pivot.

Sewing curves

Stop sewing, and then slightly change the sewing direction to sew around the curve.

When sewing along a curve while using a zigzag stitch, select a shorter stitch length in order to obtain a finer stitch.

Sewing thick fabrics

■ If the fabric does not fit under the presser foot

Raise the presser foot even higher to bring the presser foot to its highest position. (At this time, the presser foot lever is not secured.)

Lower the presser foot lever and continue

c

sewing.

a Presser foot lever

50

● The thickness of fabric differs depending on the fabric type. If the fabric is forcefully pushed, the needle may break or bend.

■

b

a

CAUTION

a

If thick seams are being sewn and the fabric does not feed at the beginning of stitching

The fabric may not feed when thick seams are being sewn and the presser foot is not level, as shown below. In this case, use the presser foot locking pin (black button on the left side of zigzag foot “J”) so that the presser foot remains level while sewing, allowing the fabric to be fed smoothly.

a Sewing direction b Misalignment

Raise the presser foot lever.

a

●

The thickness of fabric differs depending on the fabric type. If the fabric is forcefully pushed, the needle may break or bend.

Sewing thin fabrics

When sewing thin fabrics, the stitching may become misaligned or the fabric may not feed correctly. If this occurs, place thin paper or stabilizer material under the fabric and sew it together with the fabric. When you have finished sewing, tear off any excess paper.

2

Align the beginning of stitching, and then

b

position the fabric.

While holding zigzag foot “J” level, hold the

c

presser foot locking pin (black button on the left side) pressed in, and lower the presser foot lever.

a Presser foot holding pin (black button)

Release the presser foot locking pin (black

d

button).

X The presser foot remains level, allowing

the fabric to be fed.

a Stabilizer material or paper

Sewing stretch fabrics

First, baste the pieces of fabric together, and then sew without stretching the fabric. In addition, a better result can be achieved by using thread for knits or a stretch stitch.

a Basting

• After the seam is sewn, the presser foot will return to its normal operation.

51

SEWING BASICS —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

Note

CAUTION

1

AA

B

While lightly holding the upper thread with

c

Sewing hook-and-loop fastener

● Use only the ungummed hook-and-loop fastener which is for sewing. If the glue is attached to the needle or the bobbin hook race, it may cause malfunction.

● If the hook-and-loop fastener is sewn with the thin needle (65/9-75/11), the needle may bend or break.

your left hand with the needle in the upposition, press (needle position button) twice to lower and raise the needle.

a Needle position button

X The bobbin thread is looped around the

upper thread and can be pulled up.

● Before start sewing, baste together the fabric and the hook-and-loop fastener.

Make sure that the needle passes through the hookand-loop fastener by turning the handwheel and lower the needle into the hook-and-loop fastener before sewing. And then, sew the edge of the hookand-loop fastener at a slow speed. If the needle does not pass through the hook-andloop fastener, replace the needle with the needle for thick fabrics (page 30).

Carefully pull the upper thread upward to pull

d

out the end of the bobbin thread.

a Edge of the hook-and-loop fastener

Pulling up the bobbin thread

When making gathers or before free-motion quilting, first pull up the bobbin thread as described below.

Insert the bobbin into the bobbin case.

a

• Refer to steps a through d of “Installing

the bobbin” (page 18).

Pass the bobbin thread through the slot.

b

Do not cut the thread with the cutter.

Pull out about 10 cm (4 inches) of the bobbin

e

thread under the presser foot toward the rear of the machine.

Reattach the bobbin cover.

f

Insert the tab in the lower-left corner of the bobbin cover (A), and then lightly press down on the right side (B).

52

3 UTILITY STITCHES

1

CAUTION

Overcasting

Sew overcasting along the edges of cut fabric to prevent them from fraying. Six stitches are available for overcasting. Pattern numbers vary depending on the machine model. Check the pattern numbers available with your machine, and select the desired stitch.

Stitch Name

Zigzag stitch

3-point

zigzag stitch

Pattern No.

Pattern

model

70 stitches

60 stitches

model

Presser Foot

J05050505

J06060606

G07070707

50 stitches

model

40 stitches

Application

Overcasting and attaching appliqués

Overcasting on medium weight or stretch fabrics, attaching elastic, darning, etc.

Overcasting on thin or medium weight fabrics

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

3.5

0.0–7.0

(1/8)

(0–1/4)

5.0

1.5–7.0

(3/16)

(1/16–1/4)

3.5

2.5–5.0

(1/8)

(3/32–3/16)

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

1.4

(1/16)

1.0

(1/16)

(1/64–3/16)

2.0

(1/16)

(1/16–3/16)

0.0–4.0

(0–3/16)

0.2–4.0

1.0–4.0

Twin Needle

Yes

(J) Yes

Yes

No

(J)

No No

Reverse/

Reinforcement

Stitching

Walking Foot

Reverse

Reinforcement

3

Overcasting

stitch

G08080808

G09090909

J10101010

Overcasting on thick fabrics

Preventing fraying in thick fabrics and fabrics that fray easily

Overcasting on stretch fabrics

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

2.5–5.0

(3/32–3/16)

3.5–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)

2.5

(3/32)

2.5

(3/32)

2.5

(3/32)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

0.5–4.0

(1/32–3/16)

No No

Yes

No

(J)

Reinforcement

*1Do not use reverse stitching.

The values below “Auto” are set when the pattern is selected. The setting can be adjusted to any value within the range indicated below “Manual”.

Observe the following precautions while stitching.

● Before replacing the presser foot, be sure to turn off the sewing machine, otherwise injuries may occur if a button is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.

53

UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

a

CAUTION

a

Sewing overcasting stitches using zigzag foot “J”

Turn on the machine.

a

With the pattern selection dial,

b

select , or .

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

c

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 33).

Sew along the edge of the fabric with the

d

needle dropping off the edge at the right.

a Needle drop point

Sewing overcasting stitches using overcasting foot “G”

Turn on the machine.

a

With the pattern selection dial,

b

select ,

Attach overcasting foot “G”.

c

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 33).

Position the fabric with the edge of the fabric

d

against the guide of the presser foot, and then lower the presser foot lever.

a Presser foot guide

or

.

●

After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn the handwheel toward you and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.

Slowly turn the handwheel toward you and

e

check that the needle does not touch the presser foot.

Sew with the edge of the fabric against the

f

presser foot guide.

a Needle drop point

54

Basic Stitching

1

CAUTION

dc

ab

Straight stitches are used for sewing plain seams. Three stitches are available for basic stitching. Pattern numbers vary depending on the machine model. Check the pattern numbers available with your machine, and select the desired stitch.

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

0.0

0.0–7.0

(0)

(0–1/4)

Stitch Name

Left

Pattern No.

Pattern

model

Presser Foot

model

70 stitches

60 stitches

J01010101

model

50 stitches

40 stitches

Application

Basic stitching, sewing gathers or pintucks, etc.

Attaching zippers,

Cen-

Straight stitch

ter

J02020202

basic stitching, and sewing gathers or

3.5

(1/8)

0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)

pintucks, etc.

Attaching sleeves,

Triple stre tch

stitch

J03030303

sewing inseams, sewing stretch fabrics and decorative stitch-

0.0 (0)

0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)

ing

*1Do not use reverse stitching.

The values below “Auto” are set when the pattern is selected. The setting can be adjusted to any value within the range indicated below “Manual”.

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

2.5

(3/32)

(1/64–3/16)

2.5

(3/32)

(1/64–3/16)

2.5

(3/32)

(1/16–3/16)

0.2–5.0

1.5–4.0

Twin Needle

Yes

(J) Yes

Yes

(J) Yes

Yes

(J)

Reinforcement

Walking Foot

Reinforcement

No

Reverse/

Stitching

Reverse

3

● Before replacing the presser foot, be sure to turn off the sewing machine, otherwise injuries may occur if a button is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.

Baste or pin together the fabric pieces.

a

Turn on the machine.

b

With the pattern selection dial,

c

select , or .

When sewing is finished, cut the thread.

h

■ Changing the needle position

The needle position can be adjusted with the straight stitch (left needle position) and the triple stretch stitch by adjusting the stitch width. Press the “–” side of the stitch width key for a left needle position, or press the “+” side for a right

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

d

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser

needle position.

foot” (page 33).

If reverse stitches are to be sewn, lower the

e

needle into the fabric 3 to 5 stitch lengths in front of the point where the stitching will begin, and then sew the reverse stitches.

• For details, refer to “Securing the stitching” (page 46).

Start sewing.

f

• For details, refer to “Starting to sew” (page 44).

If reverse stitches are to be sewn at the end of

g

stitching, sew 3 to 5 reverse stitches.

• For details, refer to “Securing the stitching” (page 46).

a Stitch width b Stitch width key c Moves the needle position to the left d Moves the needle position to the right

55

UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

Memo

CAUTION

a

b

d

c

a

b

d

e

Blind Hem Stitching

The bottoms of skirts and pants are hemmed. Two stitches are available for blind hem stitching. Pattern numbers vary depending on the machine model. Check the pattern numbers available with your machine, and select the desired stitch.

Pattern No.

Stitch Name

Pattern

Presser Foot

model

70 stitches

model

60 stitches

50 stitches

40 stitches

Application

model

Blind hem stitching

R11111111

Blind hem

stitch

R12121212

The values below “Auto” are set when the pattern is selected. The setting can be adjusted to any value within the range indicated below “Manual”.

on medium weight fabrics

Blind hem stitching on stretch fabrics0(0)

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

0

–3 – 3

(0)

–3 – 3

● When stitch or is selected

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

2.0

(1/16)

(1/16–1/8)

2.0

(1/16)

(1/16–1/8)

1.0–3.5

Twin Needle

No No

Reverse/

Reinforcement

Stitching

Walking Foot

Reinforcement

Press the “–” side of the stitch width key so that “0”, “-1”, “-2” or “-3” appears in the LCD to move the needle drop point to the left. Press the “+” side of the stitch width key so that “0”, “1”, “2” or “3” appears in the LCD to move the needle drop point to the right.

Sew a blind hem according to the following procedure.

●

Before replacing the presser foot, be sure to turn off the sewing machine, otherwise injuries may occur if a button is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.

Fold the fabric along the desired edge of the

a

hem, and then baste it about 5 mm (3/16

Turn on the machine.

b

inch) from the edge of the fabric. After basting, fold back the fabric along the basting, and then position the fabric with the wrong side facing up.

With the pattern selection dial,

c

select or .

Attach blind hem foot “R”.

d

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 33).

a Wrong side of fabric b Basting stitching c Desired edge of hem d 5 mm (3/16 inch) e Edge of hem

56

Position the fabric with the edge of the folded

Memo

R

c

b

a

R

b

a

c

CAUTION

ab

e

hem against the guide of the presser foot, and then lower the presser foot lever.

a Wrong side of fabric b Fold of hem c Presser foot guide

If the needle is incorrectly positioned, the stitching results will be as shown below. Correct each result as described below.

● If the needle catches too much of the hem

fold The needle is positioned too far to the left. Press the “+” side of the stitch width key to adjust the needle position so that the needle slightly catches the fold of the hem.

Press the “–” side of the stitch width key to

f

adjust the stitch width until the needle slightly catches the fold of the hem, and then sew with the edge of the fabric against the presser foot guide.

a Needle b Needle drop point c Fold of hem

● Slowly turn the handwheel toward you and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.

3

a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric

● If the needle does not catch the hem fold The needle is positioned too far to the right. Press the “–” side of the stitch width key to adjust the needle position so that the needle slightly catches the fold of the hem.

a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric

● For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch length and width” (page 42).

Remove the basting stitching.

g

a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric

57

UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

Buttonhole Stitching

Buttonholes can be sewn. Pattern numbers vary depending on the machine model. Check the pattern numbers available with your machine, and select the desired stitch.

Stitch Name

Pattern No.

Pattern

model

Presser Foot

model

70 stitches

60 stitches

A37373330

A38383431

model

50 stitches

40 stitches

Horizontal buttonholes on thin and medium weight fabrics

Secured buttonholes for fabrics that have backings

Application

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

5.0

3.0-5.0

(3/16)

(1/8-3/16)

5.0

3.0–5.0

(3/16)

(1/8-3/16)

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

0.5

(1/32)

(1/64-1/16)

0.5

(1/32)

(1/64-1/16)

0.2-1.0

0.2–1.0

Twin Needle

No No

Reverse/

Reinforcement

Stitching

Walking Foot

Automatic

Reinforcement

Automatic

Reinforcement

Buttonholes for stretch or knit fabrics

Buttonholes for stretch fabrics

Buttonhole

stitch

A39393532

A40403633

Keyhole buttonholes

A41413734

for thick or furry fabrics

Keyhole buttonholes

A42 42 - -

for medium weight and thick fabrics

Horizontal button-

A43 43 - -

holes for thick or furry fabrics

The values below “Auto” are set when the pattern is selected. The setting can be adjusted to any value within the range indicated below “Manual”.

6.0

(15/64)

6.0

(15/64)

7.0

(1/4)

7.0

(1/4)

7.0

(1/4)

3.0–6.0

(1/8-15/64)

3.0–6.0

(1/8-15/64)

3.0–7.0

(1/8-1/4)

3.0–7.0

(1/8-1/4)

3.0–7.0

(1/8-1/4)

1.0

(1/16)

1.5

(1/16)

0.5

(1/32)

0.5

(1/32)

0.5

(1/32)

0.5–2.0

(1/32-1/16)

1.0–3.0

(1/16-1/8)

0.3–1.0

(1/64-1/16)

0.3–1.0

(1/64-1/16)

0.3–1.0

(1/64-1/16)

No No

Automatic

Reinforcement

Automatic

Reinforcement

Automatic

Reinforcement

Automatic

Reinforcement

Automatic

Reinforcement

58

Buttonholes with a maximum length of 30 mm (1-3/16 inches) (diameter + thickness of the button) can be sewn.

a

CAUTION

A

a

b

c

e

d

a Button guide plate b Presser foot scale c Pin d Marks on buttonhole foot e 5 mm (3/16 inch)

Buttonholes are sewn as shown below.

a Reinforcement stitching

Before replacing the presser foot, be sure to turn off the sewing machine, otherwise injuries may occur if a

●

button is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.

3

The names of parts of buttonhole foot “A”, which is used for sewing buttonholes, are indicated below.

59

UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

Note

a

b

c

a

b

A

a

b

Use chalk to mark on the fabric the position

a

and length of the buttonhole.

1

a Marks on fabric b Button hole sewing

Pull out the button guide plate of buttonhole

b

foot “A”, and then insert the button that will be put through the buttonhole.

■

If the button does not fit in the button guide plate

Add together the diameter and thickness of the button, and then set the button guide plate to the calculated length. (The distance between the markings on the presser foot scale is 5 mm (3/16 inch).)

2

Turn on the machine.

c

With the pattern selection dial, select a stitch.

d

Attach buttonhole foot “A”.

e

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser

foot” (page 33).

Pass the upper thread down through the hole

f

in the presser foot, and then pull it under the presser foot, as shown.

Position the fabric with the front end of the

g

buttonhole mark aligned with the red marks on the sides of the buttonhole foot, and then lower the presser foot lever.

a Presser foot scale b Length of buttonhole (diameter + thickness

of button)

c 5 mm (3/16 inch)

Example: For a button with a diameter of 15 mm (9/16 inch) and a thickness of 10 mm (3/8 inch), the button guide plate should be set to 25 mm (1 inch) on the scale.

a 10 mm (3/8 inch) b 15 mm (9/16 inch)

X The size of the buttonhole is set.

60

a Mark on fabric (front) b Red marks on buttonhole foot

● When lowering the presser foot, do not push in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the buttonhole will not be sewn with the correct size.

Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as

a

b

a

CAUTION

h

possible.

a Buttonhole lever The buttonhole lever should be positioned behind the bracket on the buttonhole foot.

a Buttonhole lever b Bracket

Insert a pin along the inside of one bar tack at

l

the end of the buttonhole stitching to prevent the stitching from being cut.

a Pin

Use the enclosed seam ripper to cut towards

m

the pin and open the buttonhole.

3

Gently hold the end of the upper thread in

i

your left hand, and then start sewing.

X Once sewing is completed, the

machine automatically sews reinforcement stitches, then stops.

Raise the needle and the presser foot lever,

j

remove the fabric, and cut the thread.

Raise the buttonhole lever to its original

k

position.

a Seam ripper

For keyhole buttonholes ( ), use the

enclosed eyelet punch to make a hole in the rounded end of the buttonhole, and then use the seam ripper to cut open the buttonhole.

a Eyelet punch

• When using the eyelet punch, place thick

paper or some other protective sheet under the fabric before punching the hole in the fabric.

●

When opening the buttonhole with the seam ripper, do not place your hands in the cutting path, otherwise injuries may result if the seam ripper slips. Do not use the seam ripper in any other way than how it is intended.

61

UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

Memo

–

+

–

+

■ Changing the stitch length

Press the “+” or “–” side of the stitch length key to adjust the stitch length.

• Pattern numbers vary depending on the machine model. Refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 89) for pattern numbers.

a Stitch length key b Stitch length c Fine d Coarse

• If the fabric does not feed (for example, if it is too thick), increase the coarseness of the stitching.

■ Changing the stitch width

Press the “+” or “–” side of the stitch width key to adjust the stitch width.

■ Sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics

When sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics, use a gimp thread.

Hook the gimp thread onto the part of

a

buttonhole foot “A” shown in the illustration so that it fits into the grooves, and then loosely tie it.

• Pattern numbers vary depending on the machine model. Refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 89) for pattern numbers.

a Stitch width key b Stitch width c Narrow d Wide

● Before sewing buttonholes, check the stitch

length and width by sewing a trial buttonhole on a scrap piece of fabric.

Turn on the sewing machine.

b

Select stitch or .

c

Attach buttonhole foot “A”.

d

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 33).

Adjust the stitch width to the thickness of the

e

gimp thread.

Lower the presser foot lever and the

f

buttonhole lever, and then start sewing.

When sewing is finished, gently pull the gimp

g

thread to remove any slack.

Use a handsewing needle to pull the gimp

h

thread to the wrong side of the fabric, and then tie it.

With a seam ripper, cut the middle part of the

i

gimp thread remaining at the top end of the buttonhole.

Trim off any excess of the gimp thread.

62

Button sewing

a

CAUTION

Buttons can be sewn on with the sewing machine. Buttons with 2 or with 4 holes can be attached.

Measure the distance between the holes in the

a

button to be attached.

Raise the presser foot lever, and then slide the

b

drop feed lever, located at the rear of the machine on the base, to (to the left as seen from the rear of the machine).

Place the button into button fitting foot “M”.

g

a Button

X The button is held in place.

• When attaching four-hole buttons, first sew the two holes closest to you. Then, slide the button so that the needle goes into the two holes toward the rear of the sewing machine, and then sew them in the same way.

3

a Drop feed lever (as seen from the rear of

the machine)

X The feed dogs are lowered.

Turn on the sewing machine.

c

Select stitch .

d

Attach button fitting foot “M”.

e

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 33).

Adjust the stitch width so that it is the same as

f

the distance between the holes in the button.

Turn the handwheel toward you

h

(counterclockwise) to check that the needle correctly goes into the two holes of the button.

If it seems as if the needle will hit the button, remeasure the distance between the holes in the button. Adjust the stitch width to the distance between the button holes.

●

When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch the button, otherwise the needle may bend or break.

63

UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

Memo

a

1

Start sewing.

i

Set the sewing speed controller to the left (so that the speed will be slow).

X The sewing machine automatically

stops after sewing reinforcement stitches.

• If additional strength is needed to secure the button, perform the button-sewing operation twice.

Use scissors to cut the upper thread and the

j

bobbin thread at the beginning of the stitching.

Pull the upper thread at the end of the stitching to the wrong side of the fabric, and then tie it with the bobbin thread.

■ Attaching a shank to a button

To sew the button with a shank, attach the button with space between it and the fabric, and then wind the thread by hand. This attaches the button securely.

Place the button into button-sewing foot “M”,

a

and then pull the shank lever toward you.

a Shank lever

After sewing is finished, cut the upper thread

b

with plenty of excess, wind it around the thread between the button and the fabric, and then tie it to the upper thread at the beginning of the stitching.

Tie together the ends of the bobbin thread at the end and at the beginning of the stitching on the wrong side of the fabric.

When you are finished attaching the button,

k

slide the drop feed lever to (to the right as seen from the rear of the machine) and turn the handwheel to raise the feed dogs.

a Drop feed lever (as seen from the rear of

the machine)

● The feed dog position switch is normally set

to the right side (as seen from the rear of machine).

● The feed dogs come up when you start

sewing again.

Cut off any excess thread.

c

64

Zipper Insertion

1

CAUTION

a

b

c

a

b

c

d

a

A zipper can be sewn in place. Pattern numbers vary depending on the machine model. Check the pattern numbers available with your machine, and select the desired stitch.

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

Stitch Name

Pattern No.

40 stitches

Application

model

Pattern

model

Presser Foot

70 stitches

model

60 stitches

50 stitches

Attaching zippers,

Cen-

ter

Straight stitch

J02020202

basic stitching, and sewing gathers or pintucks, etc.

3.5

(1/8)

0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)

*1Do not use reverse stitching.

The values below “Auto” are set when the pattern is selected. The setting can be adjusted to any value within the range indicated below “Manual”.

There are many methods for attaching zippers. Therefore, only the procedures for inserting a centered zipper and a side zipper are described below.

Before replacing the presser foot, be sure to turn off the sewing machine, otherwise injuries may occur if a

●

button is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

2.5

(3/32)

(1/64–3/16)

0.2–5.0

Twin Needle

Yes

(J) Yes

Reverse/

Reinforcement

Stitching

Walking Foot

Reverse

3

Inserting a centered zipper

Stitching is sewn on both pieces of fabric butted against each other.

a Right side of fabric b Stitching c End of zipper opening

Turn on the machine.

a

Attach zigzag foot “J” and sew straight

b

stitches up to the zipper opening.

With the right sides of the fabric facing each other, sew reverse stitches after reaching the zipper opening.

• For details on basic stitching, refer to “Basic Stitching” (page 55).

Baste the two pieces up to the edge of the

c

fabric.

a Basting stitching b Reverse stitching c Wrong side of fabric d End of zipper opening

Press open the seam allowance from the wrong

d

side of the fabric.

a Wrong side of fabric

65

UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

a

b

c

I

b

a

CAUTION

a

c

d

b

CAUTION

a

b

c

Align the seam with the center of the zipper,

e

and then baste the zipper in place.

a Wrong side of fabric b Basting stitching c Zipper

With the pattern selection dial,

f

select stitch .

Attach the presser foot holder to the right side

g

of the pin of zipper foot “I”.

Topstitch around the zipper.

h

a Stitching b Right side of fabric c Basting stitching d End of zipper opening

● When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch the zipper, otherwise the needle may bend or break.

a Right side of the pin b Needle drop point

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 33).

When using zipper foot “I”, be sure to use a

●

center needle position, and slowly turn the handwheel toward you to check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If a different stitch is selected and the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.

66

Remove the basting stitching.

i

Inserting a side zipper

Stitching is sewn on only one piece of fabric. Use this type of zipper for side openings and back openings.

a Stitching b Right side of fabric c End of zipper opening

The following procedure will describe how to stitch on the left side, as shown in the illustration.

Turn on the machine.

a

b

c

d

a

b

a

I

b

a

CAUTION

a

Attach zigzag foot “J” and sew straight

b

stitches up to the zipper opening.

• With the right sides of the fabric facing each other, sew reverse stitches after reaching the zipper opening.

• For details on basic stitching, refer to “Basic Stitching” (page 55).

Align the zipper teeth with the pressed edge of

f

the fabric having the extra 3 mm (1/8 inch), and then baste or pin the zipper in place.

Baste the two pieces up to the edge of the

c

fabric.

a Basting stitching b Reverse stitching c Wrong side of fabric d End of zipper opening

Press open the seam allowance from the wrong

d

side of the fabric.

a Wrong side of fabric

a Zipper teeth b Basting stitching

With the pattern selection dial,

g

select stitch .

Attach the presser foot holder to the right side

h

of the pin of zipper foot “I”.

If the stitching will be sewn on the right side (opposite side of this example), attach the presser foot holder to the left side of the zipper foot pin.

a Right side of the pin b Needle drop point

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 33).

3

Press the seam allowance so that the right side

e

(the side that will not be stitched) has an extra 3 mm (1/8 inch).

a Wrong side of fabric b 3 mm (1/8 inch)

●

When using zipper foot “I”, be sure to use a center needle position, and slowly turn the handwheel toward you to check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If a different stitch is selected and the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.

67

UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

CAUTION

a

I

a

b

a

d

c

e

Sew the zipper to the piece of fabric with the

i

extra 3 mm (1/8 inch), starting from the base of the zipper.

● When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch the zipper, otherwise the needle may bend or break.

When you are about 5 cm (2 inches) from the

j

end of the zipper, stop the sewing machine with the needle down (in the fabric), raise the presser foot lever, and then open the zipper and continue sewing.

Attach the presser foot holder to the other side

l

of the pin of zipper foot “I”.

If the presser foot holder was attached to the right side of the pin in step

h, change it to the

left side of the pin.

a Left side of the pin b Needle drop point

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 33).

Topstitch along the zipper.

m

Sew reverse stitches at the end of the zipper opening and align the zipper teeth with the side of the presser foot.

k

68

Close the zipper, turn over the fabric, and then baste the other side of the zipper to the fabric.

a Basting stitching

a Right side of fabric b End of zipper opening c Reverse stitching d Beginning of stitching e Basting stitching

When you are about 5 cm (2 inches) from the

n

end of the zipper, stop the sewing machine with the needle down (in the fabric), and then raise the presser foot lever.

Remove the basting stitching, open the zipper,

o

and then continue sewing.

Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape

CAUTION

a

b

Stretch fabrics can be sewn and elastic tape can be attached. Pattern numbers vary depending on the machine model. Check the pattern numbers available with your machine, and select the desired stitch.

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

1.0

1.0–3.0

(1/16)

(1/16–1/8)

Stitch Name

Stretch stitch

Pattern No.

Pattern

model

Presser Foot

model

70 stitches

60 stitches

J04040404

model

50 stitches

40 stitches

Sewing stretch fabrics and decorative stitching

Application

Overcasting on

3-point

zigzag stitch

J06060606

medium weight or stretch fabrics, attaching elastic,

5.0

(3/16)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

darning, etc.

The values below “Auto” are set when the pattern is selected. The setting can be adjusted to any value within the range indicated below “Manual”.

Observe the following precautions while stitching.

●

Before replacing the presser foot, be sure to turn off the sewing machine, otherwise injuries may occur if a button is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

2.5

(3/32)

(1/16–3/16)

1.0

(1/16)

(1/64–3/16)

1.0–4.0

0.2–4.0

Yes

(J)

Yes

(J)

Twin Needle

Reinforcement

Walking Foot

Reinforcement

No

Reinforcement

Reverse/

Stitching

3

Stretch stitching

Turn on the machine.

a

With the pattern selection dial,

b

select stitch .

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

c

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 33).

Sew without stretching the fabric.

d

Elastic attaching

When elastic tape is attached to the cuff or waist of a piece of clothing, the finished dimensions will be that of the stretched elastic tape. Therefore, it is necessary that a suitable length of the elastic tape be used.

Pin the elastic tape to the wrong side of the

a

fabric.

Pin the elastic tape to the fabric at a few points to make sure that the tape is uniformly positioned on the fabric.

a Elastic tape b Pin

Turn on the machine.

b

69

UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

CAUTION

With the pattern selection dial,

c

select stitch .

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

d

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 33).

Sew the elastic tape to the fabric while

e

stretching the tape so that it is the same length as the fabric.

While pulling the fabric behind the presser foot with your left hand, pull the fabric at the pin nearest the front of the presser foot with your right hand.

● When sewing, make sure that the needle does not touch any pins, otherwise the needle may bend or break.

70

Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching

1

The stitches that can be used for sewing appliqués, patchwork and quilts are described below. Pattern numbers vary depending on the machine model. Check the pattern numbers available with your machine, and select the desired stitch.

Stitch Name

Pattern No.

40 stitches

Application

model

Pattern

model

Presser Foot

70 stitches

model

60 stitches

50 stitches

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

Twin Needle

Reverse/

Reinforcement

Stitching

Walking Foot

Zigzag stitch

Appliqué

stitch

Piecing

straight stitch

Joining stitch

J05050505

J1818 - -

J13131313

J1919 - -

J2020 - -

J15151515

J1616 - -

J23231919

J24242020

J25252121

Overcasting and attaching appliqués

Appliqué quilting, free-motion quilting, satin stitching

Appliqué stitching

Attaching appliqués and binding

Piecing straight stitching (with a seam allowance of 6.5 mm(1/4 inch) from the right edge of the presser foot)

Piecing straight stitching (with a seam allowance of 6.5 mm(1/4 inch) from the left edge of the presser foot)

Patchwork stitching and decorative stitching

Patchwork stitching, decorative stitching and sewing overcasting on both pieces of fabrics, such as with tricot

Patchwork stitching and decorative stitching

3.5

(1/8)

3.5

(1/8)

3.5

(1/8)

1.5

(1/16)

1.5

(1/16)

5.5

(7/32)

1.5

(1/16)

4.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)

2.5–7.0

(3/32–1/4)

0.5–3.5

(1/32–1/8)

0.5–3.5

(1/32–1/8)

0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)

2.5–7.0

(3/32–1/4)

0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)

1.4

(1/16)

1.4

(1/16)

2.5

(3/32)

1.8

(1/16)

1.8

(1/16)

2.0

(1/16)

2.0

(1/16)

1.2

(1/16)

2.5

(3/32)

1.2

(1/16)

0.0–4.0

(0–3/16)

0.0–4.0

(0–3/16)

1.6–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

0.2–5.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.2–5.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

Yes

(J) Yes

No Yes

Yes

No

(J)

No No

No Yes

Yes

No

(J)

Yes

No

(J)

Yes

No

(J)

Reverse

Reinforcement

3

Reinforcement

*1Do not use reverse stitching.

71

UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

CAUTION

a

Stitch Name

Hand-look

quilting

Quilting

stitch

(for stippling)

Pattern No.

Pattern

model

Presser Foot

model

70 stitches

60 stitches

J17171616

J21211717

model

50 stitches

40 stitches

Straight stitch quilting that looks hand-sewn

Quilting background stitching (stippling)

Application

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

0.0

0.0–7.0

(0)

(0–1/4)

7.0

1.0–-7.0

(1/4)

(1/16–1/4)

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

2.5

(3/32)

(1/16–3/16)

1.6

(1/16)

(1/16–3/16)

1.0–4.0

Twin Needle

No No

Reverse/

Reinforcement

Stitching

Walking Foot

Reinforcement

*1Do not use reverse stitching.

The values below “Auto” are set when the pattern is selected. The setting can be adjusted to any value within the range indicated below “Manual”.

●

Before replacing the presser foot, be sure to turn off the sewing machine, otherwise injuries may occur if a button is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.

Turn the fabric over, and then baste, glue or

c

Appliqué stitching

pin it onto the fabric that it will be attached to.

Cut out the appliqué, leaving a seam

a

allowance of between 3 and 5 mm (1/8 and 3/ 16 inch).

b

72

a Seam allowance

Place a pattern made of thick paper on the back of the appliqué, and then fold over the seam allowance using an iron.

a Basting stitching

Turn on the machine.

d

With the pattern selection dial,

e

select stitch or .

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

f

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 33).

Turn the handwheel toward you, and then

J

1

g

begin sewing around the edge of the appliqué, making sure that the needle drops just outside of the appliqué.

Piecing

Sewing together two pieces of fabric is called “piecing”. The fabric pieces should be cut with a 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) seam allowance. Sew a piecing straight stitch 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) from the right side of the presser foot.

Baste or pin along the seam allowance of the

a

fabric that you wish to piece together.

Turn on the machine.

b

Select stitch or .

c

• When sewing around corners, stop the machine with the needle in the fabric just outside of the appliqué, raise the presser foot lever, and then turn the fabric as needed to change the sewing direction.

Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching

Fold the edge of the top piece of fabric and

a

place it over the lower piece.

Sew the two pieces of fabric together so the

b

pattern spans over both pieces.

is available only on models with 60 or 70

stitches.

• For details, refer to “Selecting a stitch” (page 42).

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

d

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 33).

Sew with the side of the presser foot aligned

e

with the edge of the fabric.

■ For a seam allowance on the right side

Align the right side of the presser foot with the edge of the fabric, and sew using stitch

.

3

a 6.5 mm (1/4 inch)

73

UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

Memo

Note

1

■ For a seam allowance on the left side (available only on models with 60 or 70 stitches)

Align the left side of the presser foot with the

edge of the fabric, and sew using stitch .

a 6.5 mm (1/4 inch)

● To change the width of the seam allowance (the needle position), adjust the stitch width.

Quilting

Sandwiching batting between the top and bottom layers of fabric is called “quilting”. Quilts can easily be sewn using the optional walking foot and the optional quilting guide.

■ Using the optional quilting guide

Use the quilting guide to sew parallel stitches that are equally spaced.

Insert the stem of the quilting guide into the

a

hole at the rear of the walking foot or presser foot holder.

 Walking foot

 Presser foot holder

● Thread the needle manually when using the walking foot, or only attach the walking foot after threading the needle using the needle threader.

● When quilting, use a 90/14 home sewing machine needle.

● When sewing with the walking foot, sew at a speed between slow and medium.

Baste the fabric to be quilted.

a

Attach the walking foot.

b

• For details, refer to “Using the optional

walking foot” (page 35).

Select a stitch.

c

• For details, refer to “Selecting a stitch”

(page 42).

• For details on the stitches that can be sewn

with the walking foot, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 89).

Place one hand on each side of the presser

d

foot, and hold fabric taut while sewing.

Adjust the stem of the quilting guide so that

b

the guide aligns with the seam that has already been sewn.

● The optional quilting guide is available through your dealer.

74

Free-motion quilting

Note

c

b

a

CAUTION

a

With free-motion quilting, lower the feed dogs (using the feed dog position switch) so that the fabric is not fed. The optional quilting foot is needed for free-motion quilting.

Hold the quilting foot in place with your right

d

hand, and then tighten the presser foot holder screw using the enclosed screwdriver in your left hand.

● Thread the needle manually when using the quilting foot, or only attach the quilting foot after threading the needle using the needle threader.

Turn off the sewing machine.

a

Remove the presser foot and the presser foot

b

holder.

• For details, refer to “Removing the presser

foot holder” (page 34).

Attach the quilting foot to the presser foot

c

holder screw.

The pin on the quilting foot should be positioned over the needle clamp screw.

a Pin on quilting foot b Presser foot holder screw c Needle clamp screw

● Be sure to securely tighten the screw with the enclosed screwdriver, otherwise the needle may touch the presser foot, causing it to bend or break.

Slide the feed dog position switch, located at

e

the rear of the machine on the base, to the position shown below to lower the feed dogs.

a Feed dog position switch (as seen from the

rear of the machine)

Turn on the machine.

f

With the pattern selection dial,

g

select stitch or .

3

75

UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

Memo

a

Use both hands to stretch the fabric taut, and

h

then move the fabric to follow the pattern.

Reinforcement stitches are sewn at the beginning and end of stitching.

a Pattern

• Reverse stitches cannot be sewn when the feed dogs are lowered.

After sewing is finished, slide the feed dog

i

position switch to its original position and turn the handwheel to raise the feed dogs.

• The feed dogs are normally left raised.

● Turn the handwheel to raise the feed dogs.

76

Reinforcement Stitching

CAUTION

dc

ab

Reinforce points that will be subject to strain, such as sleeve holes, inseams and pocket corners. Pattern numbers vary depending on the machine model. Check the pattern numbers available with your machine, and select the desired stitch.

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

Stitch Name

Pattern No.

40 stitches

Application

model

Pattern

model

Presser Foot

70 stitches

model

60 stitches

50 stitches

Attaching sleeves,

Triple stretch

stitch

J03030303

sewing inseams, sewing stretch fabrics and decorative stitch-

0.0 (0)

0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)

ing Reinforcing open-

Bar tack

stitch

A44443835

ings and areas where the seam easily

2.0

(1/16)

1.0–3.0

(1/16-1/8)

comes loose

The values below “Auto” are set when the pattern is selected. The setting can be adjusted to any value within the range indicated below “Manual”.

●

Before replacing the presser foot, be sure to turn off the sewing machine, otherwise injuries may occur if a button is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

2.5

(3/32)

(1/16–3/16)

0.4

(1/64)

(1/64-1/16)

1.5–4.0

0.3–1.0

Twin Needle

Yes

No

(J)

No No

Reverse/

Reinforcement

Stitching

Walking Foot

Reinforcement

Automatic

Reinforcement

3

Triple stretch stitching

With each stitch, three overlapping stitches are sewn.

Turn on the machine.

a

With the pattern selection dial,

b

select stitch .

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

c

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 33).

Start sewing.

d

■ Changing the needle position

The needle position can be adjusted with the straight stitch (left needle position) and the triple stretch stitch by adjusting the stitch width. Press the “–” side of the stitch width key for a left needle position, or press the “+” side for a right needle position.

a Stitch width b Stitch width key c Moves the needle position to the left d Moves the needle position to the right

77

UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

Note

a

b

c

a

With the pattern selection dial,

Bar tack stitching

c

select stitch .

Bar tacks are one type of reinforcement stitching used to strengthen points subject to strain, such as pocket corners and openings. As an example, the procedure for sewing bar tacks at pocket corners is described below.

Attach buttonhole foot “A”.

d

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 33).

Pass the upper thread down through the hole

e

in the presser foot, and then pull it under the presser foot, as shown.

Determine the desired length of the bar tack.

a

Set the button guide plate on buttonhole foot “A” to the desired length. (The distance between the markings on the presser foot scale is 5 mm (3/16 inch).)

With the opening of the pocket toward you,

f

position the fabric so that the needle drops 2 mm (1/16 inch) in front of the pocket opening, and then lower the presser foot lever.

a Presser foot scale b Length of bar tack c 5 mm (3/16 inch)

Turn on the machine.

b

a 2 mm (1/16 inch)

● When lowering the presser foot, do not

push in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the bar tack will not be sewn with the correct size.

78

Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as

Memo

a

b

g

possible.

a Buttonhole lever

The buttonhole lever should be positioned behind the metal bracket on the buttonhole foot.

a Buttonhole lever b Bracket

Gently hold the end of the upper thread in

h

your left hand, and then start sewing.

3

X Once sewing is completed, the

machine automatically sews reinforcement stitches, then stops.

Raise the presser foot lever, cut the threads,

i

and then remove the fabric.

Raise the buttonhole lever to its original

j

position.

● If the fabric does not feed, for example, because it is too thick, increase the stitch length. For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch length and width” (page 42).

79

UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

Decorative stitching

Various decorative stitches can be sewn with this sewing machine. Pattern numbers vary depending on the machine model. Check the pattern numbers available with your machine, and select the desired stitch.

Stitch Name

Fagoting

stitch

Joining stitch

Shell tuck

stitch

Pattern No.

Pattern

model

Presser Foot

model

70 stitches

60 stitches

J26262222

J27272323

J23231919

J24242020

J25252121

J14141414

model

50 stitches

40 stitches

Fagoting, smocking and decorative stitching

Patchwork stitching and decorative stitching

Patchwork stitching, decorative stitching and sewing overcasting on both pieces of fabrics, such as with tricot

Patchwork stitching and decorative stitching

Shell tuck stitching

Application

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

5.0

0.0-7.0

(3/16)

(0-1/4)

5.0

2.5-7.0

(3/16)

(3/32-1/4)

4.0

0.0–7.0

(3/16)

(0–1/4)

5.0

2.5–7.0

(3/16)

(3/32–1/4)

5.0

0.0–7.0

(3/16)

(0–1/4)

4.0

0.0–7.0

(3/16)

(0–1/4)

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

2.5

(3/32)

(1/16-3/16)

2.5

(3/32)

(1/16-3/16)

1.2

(1/16)

(1/64–3/16)

2.5

(3/32)

(1/16–3/16)

1.2

(1/16)

(1/64–3/16)

2.5

(3/32)

(1/64–3/16)

1.0-4.0

0.2–4.0

1.0–4.0

0.2–4.0

Yes

(J)

Yes

(J)

Yes

(J)

Yes

(J)

Yes

(J)

Yes

(J)

Reverse/

Reinforcement

Stitching

Twin Needle

Walking Foot

No

Reinforcement

No

Reinforcement

No

Reinforcement

No

Reinforcement

Satin scallop

stitch

Hemstitching

80

N22221818

N32322827

N33332928

N34343029

N353531 -

Scallop stitching

Lace sewing, decorative hemming, heirloom stitching, etc.

Decorative hemming, heirloom stitching, etc.

Decorative hemming on thin, medium weight and plain weave fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc.

5.0

(3/16)

3.5

(1/8)

6.0

(15/64)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

2.5-7.0

(3/32-1/4)

1.5-7.0

(1/16-1/4)

1.5-7.0

(1/16-1/4)

1.5-7.0

(1/16-1/4)

1.5-7.0

(1/16-1/4)

0.5

(1/32)

2.5

(3/32)

3.0

(1/8)

4.0

(3/16)

2.5

(3/32)

0.1-1.0

(1/64-1/16)

1.6-4.0

(1/16-3/16)

1.5-4.0

(1/16-3/16)

1.5-4.0

(1/16-3/16)

1.5-4.0

(1/16-3/16)

Yes

No

(J)

No No

Reinforcement

Stitch Name

1

2

3

Hemstitching

Ladder stitch

Pattern No.

Pattern

model

Presser Foot

model

70 stitches

60 stitches

N363632 -

J28282424

model

50 stitches

40 stitches

Decorative hemming on thin, medium weight and plain weave fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc.

Decorative stitching

Application

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

5.0

1.5-7.0

(3/16)

(1/16-1/4)

4.0

0.0-7.0

(3/16)

(0-1/4)

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

2.0

(1/16)

(1/64-3/16)

3.0

(1/8)

(1/16-3/16)

1.5-4.0

2.0-4.0

Twin Needle

No No

Reverse/

Reinforcement

Stitching

Walking Foot

Reinforcement

Rick-rack

stitch

Decorative

stitch

Serpentine

stitch

J29292525

J303026

-

N31312726

Decorative stitching

Decorative stitching and elastic-attaching

Fagoting

Stitching across an open seam is called “fagoting”. It is used on blouses and children's clothing. This stitch is more decorative when thicker thread is used.

Use an iron to fold the two pieces of fabric

a

along their seams.

Baste the two pieces of fabric, separated by

b

about 4.0 mm (3/16 inch), onto thin paper or a sheet of water-soluble stabilizer.

If you draw a line down the middle of the thin paper or water-soluble stabilizer, sewing is easier.

4.0

(3/16)

5.5

(7/32)

5.0

(3/16)

f

g

0.0-7.0 (0-1/4)

1.5-7.0

(1/16-1/4)

2.5

(3/32)

1.6

(1/16)

1.0

(1/16)

1.0-4.0

(1/16-3/16)

1.0-4.0

(1/64-3/16)

0.2-4.0

(1/64-3/16)

Yes

(J)

Yes

(J)

Yes

(J)

No

Reinforcement

Set the stitch width to 7.0 mm (1/4 inch).

• For details, refer to “Selecting a stitch” (page 42).

Sew with the center of the presser foot aligned along the center of the two pieces of fabric.

3

a Thin paper or water soluble stabilizer b Basting stitching c 4 mm (3/16 inch)

Turn on the machine.

c

Select stitch or .

d

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

e

After sewing is finished, remove the paper.

h

81

UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

1

Scallop stitching

The wave-shaped repeating pattern that looks like shells is called “scalloping”. It is used on the collars of blouses and to decorate the edges of handkerchiefs.

Turn on the machine.

a

Select stitch .

b

Attach monogramming foot “N”.

c

Stitch along the edge of the fabric, making

d

sure not to sew directly on the edge of the fabric.

Smocking

The decorative stitch created by stitching or embroidering over gathers is called “smocking”. It is used to decorate the front of blouses or cuffs. The smocking stitch adds texture and elasticity to fabric.

Turn on the machine.

a

Select the straight stitch, and then adjust the

b

stitch length to 4.0 mm (3/16 inch) and loosen the thread tension.

• For details, refer to “Selecting a stitch” (page 42) and “Adjusting the thread tension” (page 49).

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

c

Sew parallel stitching at intervals of 1 cm (3/8

d

inch).

• For better results, apply spray starch onto the fabric and press with a hot iron before it is sewn.

Trim along the stitches.

e

• Be careful not to cut the stitches.

a 1 cm (3/8 inch)

• Do not sew reverse/reinforcement stitches or cut the thread.

Pull the bobbin threads to create gathers.

e

Smooth the gathers by ironing them.

Select stitch or .

f

Stitch between the straight stitches.

g

82

Pull out the threads for the straight stitches.

1

2

3

h

Shell tuck stitching

The gathers that look like shells are called “shell tucks”. They are used to decorate trims, the front of blouses or cuffs made of thin fabrics.

Fold the fabric along the bias.

a

Unfold the fabric, and then iron the tucks

f

down to one side.

Joining

Decorative bridging stitches can be sewn over the seam allowance of joined fabrics. This is used when making a crazy quilt.

Turn on the machine.

a

Sew together the right sides of the two pieces

b

of fabric, and then open up the seam allowances.

3

Turn on the machine.

b

Select stitch , and then increase the thread

c

tension.

• For details, refer to “Selecting a stitch” (page 42).

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

d

Sew while making sure that the needle drops

e

slightly off the edge of the fabric.

a Wrong side of fabric b 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) seam allowance c Straight stitch

Select stitch , or .

c

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

d

Turn the fabric over so that the right side

e

faces up, and then sew over the seam with the center of the presser foot aligned with the seam.

a Needle drop point

a Right side of fabric

83

UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

CAUTION

■ Drawnwork (Example 1)

Heirloom stitching

When sewing with the wing needle, the needle holes are enlarged, creating a lace-like decorative stitch. This is used to decorate hems and tablecloths on thin or medium weight fabrics in addition to plain weave fabrics.

● The needle threader cannot be used with the wing needle, otherwise the sewing machine may be damaged. Manually pass the thread through the eye of the needle from the front to the back. For details, refer to “Threading the needle manually (without using the needle threader)” (page 26).

Insert the wing needle.

a

The fabric is turned and sewn twice.

Pull out several threads from the fabric.

a

Attach monogramming foot “N”.

b

• Use a 130/705H 100/16 wing needle.

• For details on inserting a needle, refer to “Replacing the needle” (page 31).

Turn on the machine.

b

Select stitch , , , , or .

c

Attach monogramming foot “N”.

d

● Select a stitch width of 6.0 mm (15/64 inch) or less, otherwise the needle may bend or break.

● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.

Start sewing.

e

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 33).

Select stitch .

c

• For details, refer to “Selecting a stitch” (page 42).

With the right side of the fabric facing up, sew

d

along the right edge of the frayed section.

N

Turn the fabric around to sew the opposite

e

side.

84

Sew along the other edge of the frayed section

N

1

N

f

so that it looks like the previous stitching.

■ Drawnwork (Example 2)

Pull out several threads from two sections of

a

the fabric, separated by an unfrayed section of about 4 mm (3/16 inch).

a 4 mm (3/16 inch)

3

Attach monogramming foot “N”.

b

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 33).

Select stitch .

c

• For details, refer to “Selecting a stitch” (page 42).

Sew along the center of the unfrayed section.

d

85

UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

Note

CAUTION

Using the side cutter (optional)

By using the optional side cutter, overcasting stitching can be sewn while the edge of the fabric is cut off. Pattern numbers vary depending on the machine model. Check the pattern numbers available with your machine, and select the desired stitch.

Stitch Name

Pattern No.

Pattern

model

Presser Foot

70 stitches

model

60 stitches

50 stitches

40 stitches

Application

model

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

Reverse/

Reinforcement

Stitching

S01010101

S07070707

S08080808

Overcasting stitch

Basic stitching, sewing gathers or pintucks, etc.

Overcasting on thin or medium weight fabrics

Overcasting on thick fabrics

Preventing fraying in

S09090909

thick fabrics and fabrics that fray easily

The values below “Auto” are set when the pattern is selected. The setting can be adjusted to any value within the range indicated below “Manual”. When using the side cutter, adjust the stitch width setting to a value within the range indicated in the table above.

0.0 (0)

3.5

(1/8)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

0.0–2.5

(0–3/32)

2.5–5.0

(3/32–3/16)

2.5–5.0

(3/32–3/16)

3.5–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

2.5

(3/32)

2.0

(1/16)

2.5

(3/32)

2.5

(3/32)

0.2–5.0

(1/64–3/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

Reverse

Reinforcement

● Before replacing the presser foot and presser foot holder, be sure to turn off the sewing machine, otherwise injuries may occur if a button is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.

Remove the presser foot.

a

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 33).

Raise the presser foot lever even higher, and

e

then hook the connecting fork of the side cutter onto the needle clamp screw.

Thread the upper thread.

b

• For details, refer to “Threading the upper thread” (page 20).

● The needle threader cannot be used while

the side cutter is installed on the sewing machine, otherwise damage to the needle threader may result.

Select a stitch.

c

• For details, refer to “Selecting a stitch” (page 42).

Raise the presser foot lever.

d

86

a Connecting fork b Needle clamp screw

Position the side cutter so that the side cutter

Note

a

b

CAUTION

a

f

pin is aligned with the notch in the presser foot holder, and then slowly lower the presser foot lever.

a Notch in presser foot holder b Pin

X The side cutter is attached.

Position the fabric.

j

Position the fabric so that the right side of the cut is on top of the guide plate and the left side

of the cut is underneath the presser foot.

a Guide plate

Raise the presser foot lever to check that the

g

side cutter is securely attached.

Pass the upper thread under the side cutter,

h

and then pull it out toward the rear of the sewing machine.

● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn the handwheel toward you and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.

Make a cut of about 2 cm (3/4 inch) long

i

in the fabric at the beginning of the stitching.

● If the fabric is not positioned correctly, the fabric will not be cut.

Lower the presser foot lever, and then start

k

sewing.

X A seam allowance is cut while the

stitching is sewn.

If stitch is sewn, the seam allowance will

be about 5 mm (3/16 inch).

3

a 2 cm (3/4 inch)

a 5 mm (3/16 inch)

● The side cutter can cut as much as one layer of 13-oz. denim.

● After using the side cutter, clean it by removing any lint or dust.

● If the side cutter can no longer cut fabric, use a rag to apply a small amount of oil to the cutting edge of the cutter.

87

UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

88

4 APPENDIX

CAUTION

1

Stitch Settings

Applications, stitch lengths and widths and whether the twin needle can be used are listed for utility stitches in the following table.

● When using the twin needle, be sure to attach zigzag foot “J”, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.

Utility stitches

Pattern numbers vary depending on the machine model. Check the pattern numbers available with your machine, and select the desired stitch.

Stitch Name

Left

Cen-

Straight stitch

ter

Triple stretch

stitch

Stretch stitch

Pattern No.

Pattern

model

Presser Foot

model

70 stitches

60 stitches

J01010101

J02020202

J03030303

J04040404

model

50 stitches

40 stitches

Basic stitching, sewing gathers or pintucks, etc.

Attaching zippers, basic stitching, and sewing gathers or pintucks, etc.

Attaching sleeves, sewing inseams, sewing stretch fabrics and decorative stitching

Sewing stretch fabrics and decorative stitching

Application

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

0.0

0.0–7.0

(0)

(0–1/4)

3.5

0.0–7.0

(1/8)

(0–1/4)

0.0

0.0–7.0

(0)

(0–1/4)

1.0

1.0–3.0

(1/16)

(1/16–1/8)

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

2.5

(3/32)

(1/64–3/16)

2.5

(3/32)

(1/64–3/16)

2.5

(3/32)

(1/16–3/16)

2.5

(3/32)

(1/16–3/16)

0.2–5.0

1.5–4.0

1.0–4.0

Twin Needle

Yes

(J) Yes

Yes

(J) Yes

Yes

(J)

Yes

(J)

Reinforcement

Walking Foot

Reinforcement

No

Reinforcement

No

Reverse/

Stitching

Reverse

4

Zigzag stitch

3-point

zigzag stitch

J05050505

J06060606

*1Do not use reverse stitching.

Overcasting and attaching appliqués

Overcasting on medium weight or stretch fabrics, attaching elastic, darning, etc.

3.5

(1/8)

5.0

(3/16)

0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

1.4

(1/16)

1.0

(1/16)

0.0–4.0

(0–3/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

Yes

(J) Yes

Yes

(J)

No

Reverse

Reinforcement

89

APPENDIX ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

Stitch Name

Overcasting

stitch

Blind hem

stitch

Appliqué

stitch

Pattern No.

Pattern

model

Presser Foot

model

70 stitches

60 stitches

G07070707

G08080808

G09090909

J10101010

R11111111

R12121212

J13131313

model

50 stitches

40 stitches

Overcasting on thin or medium weight fabrics

Overcasting on thick fabrics

Preventing fraying in thick fabrics and fabrics that fray easily

Overcasting on stretch fabrics

Blind hem stitching on medium weight fabrics

Blind hem stitching on stretch fabrics

Appliqué stitching

Application

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

3.5

2.5–5.0

(1/8)

(3/32–3/16)

5.0

2.5–5.0

(3/16)

(3/32–3/16)

5.0

3.5–5.0

(3/16)

(1/8–3/16)

5.0

0.0–7.0

(3/16)

(0–1/4)

0

–3 – 3

(0)

0

–3 – 3

(0)

3.5

2.5–7.0

(1/8)

(3/32–1/4)

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

2.0

(1/16)

(1/16–3/16)

2.5

(3/32)

(1/16–3/16)

2.5

(3/32)

(1/16–3/16)

2.5

(3/32)

(1/32–3/16)

2.0

(1/16)

(1/16–1/8)

2.0

(1/16)

(1/16–1/8)

2.5

(3/32)

(1/16–3/16)

1.0–4.0

0.5–4.0

1.0–3.5

1.6–4.0

Twin Needle

No No

Yes

No

(J)

No No

Yes

No

(J)

Reverse/

Reinforcement

Stitching

Walking Foot

Reinforcement

Shell tuck

stitch

Piecing

straight stitch

Hand-look

quilting

Zigzag stitch

Appliqué

stitch

J14141414

J15151515

J1616 - -

J17171616

J1818 - -

J1919 - -

J2020 - -

Shell tuck stitching

Piecing straight stitching (with a seam allowance of 6.5 mm(1/4 inch) from the right edge of the presser foot)

Piecing straight stitching (with a seam allowance of 6.5 mm(1/4 inch) from the left edge of the presser foot)

Straight stitch quilting that looks hand-sewn

Appliqué quilting, free-motion quilting, satin stitching

Attaching appliqués and binding

4.0

(3/16)

5.5

(7/32)

1.5

(1/16)

0.0 (0)

3.5

(1/8)

1.5

(1/16)

1.5

(1/16)

0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)

0.5–3.5

(1/32–1/8)

0.5–3.5

(1/32–1/8)

2.5

(3/32)

2.0

(1/16)

2.0

(1/16)

2.5

(3/32)

1.4

(1/16)

1.8

(1/16)

1.8

(1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.2–5.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.2–5.0

(1/64–3/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

0.0–4.0

(0–3/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

Yes

No

(J)

No No

No Yes

No No

No Yes

No No

Reinforcement

90

Stitch Name

Quilting

stitch

(for stippling)

Pattern No.

Pattern

model

Presser Foot

model

70 stitches

60 stitches

J21211717

model

50 stitches

40 stitches

Quilting background stitching (stippling)

Application

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

7.0

1.0–-7.0

(1/4)

(1/16–1/4)

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

1.6

(1/16)

(1/16–3/16)

1.0–4.0

Twin Needle

No No

Reverse/

Reinforcement

Stitching

Walking Foot

Reinforcement

Satin scallop

stitch

Joining stitch

Fagoting

stitch

Ladder stitch

Rick-rack

stitch

N22221818

J23231919

J24242020

J25252121

J26262222

J27272323

J28282424

J29292525

Scallop stitching

Patchwork stitching and decorative stitching

Patchwork stitching, decorative stitching and sewing overcasting on both pieces of fabrics, such as with tricot

Patchwork stitching and decorative stitching

Fagoting, smocking and decorative stitching

Decorative stitching

5.0

(3/16)

4.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

4.0

(3/16)

4.0

(3/16)

2.5-7.0

(3/32-1/4)

0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)

2.5–7.0

(3/32–1/4)

0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)

0.0-7.0 (0-1/4)

2.5-7.0

(3/32-1/4)

0.0-7.0 (0-1/4)

0.5

(1/32)

1.2

(1/16)

2.5

(3/32)

1.2

(1/16)

2.5

(3/32)

2.5

(3/32)

3.0

(1/8)

2.5

(3/32)

0.1-1.0

(1/64-1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

1.0-4.0

(1/16-3/16)

1.0-4.0

(1/16-3/16)

2.0-4.0

(1/16-3/16)

1.0-4.0

(1/16-3/16)

Yes

No

(J)

Yes

No

(J)

Yes

No

(J)

Yes

No

(J)

Yes

No

(J)

Yes

No

(J)

No No

Yes

No

(J)

Reinforcement

4

Reinforcement

Decorative

stitch

Serpentine

stitch

J303026 -

N31312726

Decorative stitching

Decorative stitching and elastic-attaching

5.5

(7/32)

5.0

(3/16)

0.0-7.0 (0-1/4)

1.5-7.0

(1/16-1/4)

1.6

(1/16)

1.0

(1/16)

1.0-4.0

(1/64-3/16)

0.2-4.0

(1/64-3/16)

Yes

(J)

Yes

(J)

No

Reinforcement

91

APPENDIX ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

Stitch Name

Hemstitching

Pattern No.

Pattern

model

Presser Foot

model

70 stitches

60 stitches

N32322827

N33332928

N34343029

N353531 -

N363632 -

A37373330

A38383431

model

50 stitches

40 stitches

Lace sewing, decorative hemming, heirloom stitching, etc.

Decorative hemming, heirloom stitching, etc.

Decorative hemming on thin, medium weight and plain weave fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc.

Horizontal buttonholes on thin and medium weight fabrics

Secured buttonholes for fabrics that have backings

Application

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

3.5

1.5-7.0

(1/8)

(1/16-1/4)

6.0

1.5-7.0

(15/64)

(1/16-1/4)

5.0

1.5-7.0

(3/16)

(1/16-1/4)

5.0

1.5-7.0

(3/16)

(1/16-1/4)

5.0

1.5-7.0

(3/16)

(1/16-1/4)

5.0

3.0-5.0

(3/16)

(1/8-3/16)

5.0

3.0–5.0

(3/16)

(1/8-3/16)

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

2.5

(3/32)

(1/16-3/16)

3.0

(1/8)

(1/16-3/16)

4.0

(3/16)

(1/16-3/16)

2.5

(3/32)

(1/16-3/16)

2.0

(1/16)

(1/64-3/16)

0.5

(1/32)

(1/64-1/16)

0.5

(1/32)

(1/64-1/16)

1.6-4.0

1.5-4.0

0.2-1.0

0.2–1.0

Twin Needle

No No

Reverse/

Reinforcement

Stitching

Walking Foot

Reinforcement

Automatic

Reinforcement

Automatic

Reinforcement

Buttonhole

stitch

Bar tack

stitch

92

A39393532

A40403633

A41413734

A42 42 - -

A43 43 - -

A44443835

Buttonholes for stretch or knit fabrics

Buttonholes for stretch fabrics

Keyhole buttonholes for thick or furry fabrics

Keyhole buttonholes for medium weight and thick fabrics

Horizontal buttonholes for thick or furry fabrics

Reinforcing openings and areas where the seam easily comes loose

6.0

(15/64)

6.0

(15/64)

7.0

(1/4)

7.0

(1/4)

7.0

(1/4)

2.0

(1/16)

3.0–6.0

(1/8-15/64)

3.0–6.0

(1/8-15/64)

3.0–7.0

(1/8-1/4)

3.0–7.0

(1/8-1/4)

3.0–7.0

(1/8-1/4)

1.0–3.0

(1/16-1/8)

1.0

(1/16)

1.5

(1/16)

0.5

(1/32)

0.5

(1/32)

0.5

(1/32)

0.4

(1/64)

0.5–2.0

(1/32-1/16)

1.0–3.0

(1/16-1/8)

0.3–1.0

(1/64-1/16)

0.3–1.0

(1/64-1/16)

0.3–1.0

(1/64-1/16)

0.3–1.0

(1/64-1/16)

No No

Automatic

Reinforcement

Automatic

Reinforcement

Automatic

Reinforcement

Automatic

Reinforcement

Automatic

Reinforcement

Automatic

Reinforcement

Stitch Name

Decorative

stitch

Pattern No.

Pattern

model

Presser Foot

model

70 stitches

60 stitches

N4545 - -

N464639 -

N474740 -

N48 - - -

N494841 -

N504942 -

N51 - - -

model

50 stitches

40 stitches

Application

For decoration, etc.

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

7.0

0.0–7.0

(1/4)

(0–1/4)

7.0

0.0–7.0

(1/4)

(0–1/4)

7.0

0.0–7.0

(1/4)

(0–1/4)

7.0

0.0–7.0

(1/4)

(0–1/4)

7.0

0.0–7.0

(1/4)

(0–1/4)

7.0

0.0–7.0

(1/4)

(0–1/4)

7.0

0.0–7.0

(1/4)

(0–1/4)

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

2.5

(3/32)

(1/64–3/16)

2.0

(1/16)

(1/64–3/16)

2.5

(3/32)

(1/64–3/16)

2.5

(3/32)

(1/64–3/16)

2.0

(1/16)

(1/64–3/16)

2.0

(1/16)

(1/64–3/16)

1.6

(1/16)

(1/64–3/16)

0.2–4.0

Twin Needle

No No

Reverse/

Reinforcement

Stitching

Walking Foot

Reinforcement

4

N52504336

N53 - - -

N54 - - -

N55 - - -

N5651 - -

N5752 - -

For decoration, etc.

7.0

(1/4)

7.0

(1/4)

5.0

(3/16)

7.0

(1/4)

7.0

(1/4)

7.0

(1/4)

0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)

2.5

(3/32)

2.0

(1/16)

2.0

(1/16)

2.5

(3/32)

1.6

(1/16)

1.4

(1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

No No

Reinforcement

93

APPENDIX ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

Stitch Name

Satin

stitches

Pattern No.

Pattern

model

Presser Foot

model

70 stitches

60 stitches

N585344 -

N59 - - -

N60544537

N61554638

N625647 -

N63574839

N64 - - -

model

50 stitches

40 stitches

Application

For decoration, etc.

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

7.0

2.5–7.0

(1/4)

(3/32–1/4)

7.0

2.5–7.0

(1/4)

(3/32–1/4)

7.0

2.5–7.0

(1/4)

(3/32–1/4)

7.0

2.5–7.0

(1/4)

(3/32–1/4)

7.0

2.5–7.0

(1/4)

(3/32–1/4)

7.0

2.5–7.0

(1/4)

(3/32–1/4)

7.0

2.5–7.0

(1/4)

(3/32–1/4)

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

0.4

(1/64)

(1/64–1/16)

0.4

(1/64)

(1/64–1/16)

0.4

(1/64)

(1/64–1/16)

0.4

(1/64)

(1/64–1/16)

0.4

(1/64)

(1/64–1/16)

0.4

(1/64)

(1/64–1/16)

0.4

(1/64)

(1/64–1/16)

0.1–1.0

Yes

(J)

Yes

(J)

Yes

(J)

Yes

(J)

Yes

(J)

Yes

(J)

Yes

(J)

Twin Needle

Reinforcement

Walking Foot

Reinforcement

No

Reinforcement

No

Reinforcement

No

Reinforcement

No

Reinforcement

No

Reinforcement

No

Reverse/

Stitching

Cross-

stitches

N65 - - -

N66 - - -

N67 - - -

N6858 - -

N695949 -

N70605040

For decoration, etc.

7.0

(1/4)

7.0

(1/4)

6.0

(15/64)

6.0

(15/64)

6.0

(15/64)

6.0

(15/64)

2.5–7.0

(3/32–1/4)

0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)

0.4

(1/64)

1.6

(1/16)

1.4

(1/16)

2.5

(3/32)

1.4

(1/16)

1.4

(1/16)

0.1–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

Yes

No

(J)

No No

Reinforcement

94

Maintenance

CAUTION

Simple sewing machine maintenance operations are described below.

Remove the flat bed attachment.

Restrictions on oiling

In order to prevent damaging this machine, it must not be oiled by the user. This machine was manufactured with the necessary amount of oil applied to ensure correct operation, making periodic oiling unnecessary. If problems occur, such as difficulty turning the handwheel or an unusual noise, immediately stop using the machine, and contact you authorized dealer or the nearest authorized service center.

Cleaning the machine surface

If the surface of the machine is dirty, lightly soak a cloth in neutral detergent, squeeze it out firmly, and then wipe the surface of the machine. After cleaning it once with a wet cloth, wipe it again with a dry cloth.

c

Loosen the presser foot holder screw and

d

remove the presser foot holder, and then loosen the needle clamp screw and remove the needle.

Grasp both sides of the needle plate cover,

e

and then slide it toward you.

4

Make sure that the sewing machine has been

●

turned off, and then unplug the power cord before cleaning the machine, otherwise injuries or an electric shock may occur.

●

Do not use benzene, thinner or cleansing powder, otherwise the machine may be discolored or deformed.

Cleaning the race

Sewing performance will suffer if dust collects in the bobbin case; therefore, it should be cleaned periodically.

Turn off the sewing machine.

a

Unplug the power cord from the power

b

supply jack on the right side of the sewing machine.

●

Unplug the power cord before cleaning the machine, otherwise injuries or an electric shock may occur.

a Needle plate cover

X The needle plate cover is removed.

Remove the bobbin case.

f

Grasp the bobbin case, and then pull it out.

a

a Bobbin case

Use the cleaning brush or a vacuum cleaner to

g

remove any lint and dust from the race and its surrounding area.

b

a Cleaning brush b Race

• Do not apply oil to the bobbin case.

a

95

APPENDIX ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

Note

CAUTION

a

Insert the bobbin case so that the ▲ mark on

h

the bobbin case aligns with the machine as shown below.

• Align the ▲ and ● marks.

● mark on

Insert the tabs on the needle plate cover into

i

the needle plate, and then slide the cover back into position.

a Needle plate cover

Removing the needle plate

When the thread is tangled and cannot be removed by cleaning the race, remove the needle plate.

Follow steps a through f on page 95.

a

Remove the needle plate by removing the

b

screws with the disc-shaped screwdriver.

a ▲ mark b ● mark c Bobbin case

• Make sure that the indicated points are aligned before installing the bobbin case.

● Never use a bobbin case that is scratched, otherwise the upper thread may become tangled, the needle may break, or sewing performance may suffer. For a new bobbin case, contact your nearest authorized service center.

● Be sure that the bobbin case is correctly installed, otherwise the needle may break.

Remove the tangled thread from the needle

c

plate.

Return the needle plate to its original position,

d

and then tighten the screws with the discshaped screwdriver.

● Align the two screw holes on the needle plate with the two holes on the machine.

Follow steps g through i beginning on

e

page 95.

96

Troubleshooting

If the machine stops operating correctly, check the following possible problems before requesting service. You can solve most problems by yourself. If you need additional help, the Brother Solutions Center offers the latest FAQs and troubleshooting tips. Visit us at “ http://solutions.brother.com If the problem persists, contact your dealer or the nearest authorized service center.

Frequent troubleshooting topics

Detailed causes and remedies for common troubleshooting topics are described below. Be sure to refer to this before contacting us.

■ Upper thread tightened up page 97

■ Tangled thread on wrong side of fabric page 98

■ Incorrect thread tension page 100

■ Fabric is caught in the machine and cannot be removed page 101

■ When the thread became tangled under the bobbin winder seat page 104

■ Cause

Upper thread tightened up

■ Symptom

• The upper thread appears as a single continuous line.

• The lower thread is visible from the upper side of the fabric. (Refer to the illustration below.)

• The upper thread has tightened up, and comes out when pulled.

• The upper thread has tightened up, and wrinkles appear in the fabric.

• The upper thread tension is tight, and the results do not change even after the thread tension is adjusted.

Incorrect lower threading

If the lower thread is incorrectly threaded, instead of the appropriate tension being applied to the lower thread, it is pulled through the fabric when the upper thread is pulled up. For this reason, the thread is visible from the upper side of the fabric.

■ Remedy/check details

Correctly install the lower thread.

Turn off the sewing machine.

a

Remove the bobbin from the bobbin case.

b

Place the bobbin in the bobbin case so that

c

the thread unwinds in the correct direction.

• Hold the bobbin with your right hand with the thread unwinding to the left, and hold the end of the thread with your left hand. Then, with your right hand, place the bobbin in the bobbin case.

” .

4

a Lower side of fabric b Lower thread visible from upper side of

fabric

c Upper thread d Upper side of fabric e Lower thread

If the bobbin is inserted with the thread unwinding in the wrong direction, sewing will be done with an incorrect thread tension.

97

APPENDIX ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

While holding the bobbin in place with your

d

finger, pass the thread through the slit in the needle plate.

• Hold down the bobbin with your right hand, and then pull the end of the thread around the tab with your left hand.

a Tab b Hold down the bobbin with your right

hand. Pull the thread to pass it through the slit in the needle plate, then cut it with the cutter.

Tangled thread on wrong side of fabric

■ Symptom

• The thread becomes tangled on the lower side of the fabric.

• After starting sewing, a rattling noise is made and sewing cannot continue.

• Looking under the fabric, there is tangled thread in the bobbin case.

c Slit d Cutter

Sewing with the correct thread tension is possible after the bobbin has been correctly installed in the bobbin case.

■ Cause Incorrect upper threading

If the upper thread is incorrectly threaded, the upper thread passed through the fabric cannot be firmly pulled up and the upper thread becomes tangled in the bobbin case, causing a rattling noise.

■ Remedy/check details

Remove the tangled thread, and then correct the upper threading.

Remove the tangled thread. If it cannot be

a

removed, cut the thread with scissors.

• For details, refer to “Cleaning the race” on (page 95).

Remove the upper thread from the machine.

b

Refer to the following steps to correct the

c

upper threading.

• If the bobbin was removed from the bobbin case, refer to “Installing the bobbin” (page 18) and “Remedy/check details” in the section “Upper thread tightened up” (page 97) to correctly install the bobbin.

98

Brother JK4000, JK7000 Operation Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual