Brother JX2517 Operation Manual

0 (0)
Operation Manual
Sewing Machine
Product Code: 888-X53/X54/X55/X56
Manual de instrucciones
Máquina de coser
Código de producto: 888-X53/X54/X55/X56
ENGLISH
ESPAÑOL
Visítenos en http://solutions.brother.com donde hallará consejos para la solución de problemas así como la lista de preguntas y respuestas más frecuentes.
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IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS
Please read these safety instructions before attempting to use the machine.
DANGER - To reduce
the risk of electric shock:
1 Always unplug the machine from
the electrical outlet immediately after using, when cleaning, when making any user servicing adjustments mentioned in this manual, or if you are leaving the machine unattended.
WARNING - To
reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons.
2 Always unplug the machine from
the electrical outlet when making any adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual:
• To unplug the machine, switch the machine to the symbol “O” position to turn it off, then grasp the plug and pull it out of the electrical outlet. Do not pull on the cord.
• Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet. Do not use an extension cord.
Always unplug your machine if the power is cut.
3 Never operate this machine if it has
a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or water is spilled on the unit. Return the machine to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.
• While the machine is stored or in use if you notice anything unusual, such as an odor, heat, discoloration or deformation, stop using the machine
and immediately unplug the power cord.
• When transporting the machine, be sure to carry it by its handle. Lifting the machine by any other part may damage the machine or result in the machine falling, which could cause injuries.
• When lifting the machine, be careful not to make any sudden or careless movements, otherwise you may injure your back or knees.
4 Always keep your work area clear:
• Never operate the machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the machine and foot control free from the build up of lint, dust, and loose cloth.
Do not store objects on the foot controller.
Do not use extension cords. Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet.
Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.
Do not use the machine near a heat source, such as a stove or iron; otherwise, the machine, power cord or garment being sewn may ignite, resulting in fire or an electric shock.
Do not place this machine on an unstable surface, such as an unsteady or slanted table, otherwise the machine may fall, resulting in injuries.
5 Special care is required when
sewing:
Always pay close attention to the needle. Do not use bent or damaged needles.
1
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• Keep fingers away from all moving
parts. Special care is required around the machine needle.
• Do not turn on the machine while pressing down the foot controller. The machine may start unexpectedly and cause personal injury or damage to the machine.
• Switch the machine to the symbol “O” position to turn it off when making any adjustments in the needle area.
Do not use a damaged or incorrect needle plate, as it could cause the needle to break.
Do not push or pull the fabric when sewing, and follow careful instruction when freehand stitching so that you do not deflect the needle and cause it to break.
6 This machine is not a toy:
• Your close attention is necessary when the machine is used by or near children.
• The plastic bag that this machine was supplied in should be kept out of the reach of children or disposed of. Never allow children to play with the bag due to the danger of suffocation.
Do not use outdoors.
7 For a longer service life:
• When storing this machine, avoid direct sunlight and high humidity locations. Do not use or store the machine near a space heater, iron, halogen lamp, or other hot objects.
• Use only neutral soaps or detergents to clean the case. Benzene, thinner, and scouring powders can damage the case and machine, and should never be used.
• Always consult the operation manual when replacing or installing any assemblies, the presser feet, needle, or other parts to assure correct installation.
8 For repair or adjustment:
• If the Light unit (light-emitting diode) is damaged, it must be replaced by authorized dealer.
• In the event a malfunction occurs or adjustment is required, first follow the troubleshooting table in the back of the operation manual to inspect and adjust the machine yourself. If the problem persists, please consult your local authorized Brother dealer.
Use this machine only for its intended use as described in this manual.
Use accessories recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.
The contents of this manual and specifications of this product are subject to change without notice.
For additional product information, visit our web site at www.brother.com
SAVE THESE
INSTRUCTIONS
This machine is intended
for household use.
This appliance is not intended for use by persons (including children) with reduced physical, sensory or mental capabilities, or lack of experience and knowledge, unless they have been given supervision or instruction concerning use of the appliance by a person responsible for their safety. Children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with the appliance.
This appliance can be used by children aged from 8 years and above and persons with reduced physical, sensory or mental capabilities or lack of experience and knowledge if they have been given supervision or instruction concerning use of the appliance in a safe way and understand the hazards involved. Children shall not play with the appliance. Cleaning and user maintenance shall not be made by children without supervision.
2
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FOR USERS IN THE UK, EIRE,
MALTA AND CYPRUS ONLY
IMPORTANT
• In the event of replacing the plug fuse, use a fuse
approved by ASTA to BS 1362, i.e. carrying the mark, rating as marked on plug.
CONTENTS
IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS ...........1
1. KNOWING YOUR SEWING
MACHINE .................................. 4
ACCESSORIES .................................................4
Optional accessories .......................................... 4
THE MAIN PARTS ...........................................5
Flat bed attachment ............................................ 5
USING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ................ 6
Connecting plugs ............................................... 6
Main power and sewing light switch .................. 7
Foot controller .................................................... 7
Checking the needle ........................................... 7
Replacing the needle .......................................... 7
Changing the presser foot ................................... 8
THE CONTROLS .............................................9
Pattern selection dial .......................................... 9
Patterns and stitch names ................................... 9
Reverse sewing lever ........................................ 10
THREADING THE MACHINE .......................11
Winding the bobbin ......................................... 11
Lower threading ............................................... 13 Lower threading (for models equipped with a
quick-set bobbin) ............................................. 14
Upper threading ............................................... 15
Drawing up the lower thread ............................ 17
FABRIC, THREAD, AND NEEDLE
COMBINATIONS .........................................18
• Always replace the fuse cover. Never use plugs with the fuse cover omitted.
• If the available electrical outlet is not suitable for the plug supplied with this equipment, you should contact your authorized dealer to obtain the correct lead.
Thread tension .................................................. 21
3. BUILT-IN STITCHES ................. 23
Straight stitching ............................................... 23
Zigzag stitching ................................................. 23
Blind hem stitching ........................................... 24
Overedge stitching ............................................ 25
Elastic stitching .................................................25
Double action stitching ..................................... 26
4. SEWING BUTTONHOLES AND
BUTTONS ............................... 27
Making a buttonhole ......................................... 27
Adjusting buttonholes ....................................... 28
5. USING ATTACHMENTS AND
APPLICATIONS ....................... 29
Zipper insertion ................................................ 29
Gathering ..........................................................30
Appliqués .........................................................30
USING OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES ............... 31
Sewing buttons .................................................31
Darning ............................................................32
Using the blind stitch foot .................................33
6. APPENDIX ................................ 34
2. SEWING BASICS ......................19
Please read before sewing ................................ 19
Starting sewing ................................................. 19
Trial sewing ...................................................... 20
Changing the sewing direction ......................... 20
Sewing thick fabrics ......................................... 20
Sewing thin fabrics ........................................... 21
Sewing stretch fabrics ....................................... 21
Stitching cylindrical pieces ............................... 21
3
MAINTENANCE ........................................... 34
Restrictions on oiling ........................................ 34
Precautions on storing the machine .................. 34
Cleaning ...........................................................34
TROUBLESHOOTING .................................. 36
INDEX .......................................................... 39
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Note
1 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE
ACCESSORIES
We have designed these accessories to help you easily perform most sewing tasks.
1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
6. 7.
1
No. Part Name
Zigzag foot “J”
1
(on machine) 2 Buttonhole foot “A” X59369-321 3 Zipper foot “I” XE9369-001
Bobbin 4
(One is on machine)
The included accessories vary depending on the machine model.
Part Code
Americas Others
XC4901-121
SFB:
SA156
XA5539-151
No. Part Name
Needle set
5
(90/14 needle) 6 Screwdriver XF3557-001 7 Foot controller See page 5
Part Code
Americas Others
3-piece set: XE5328-001 2-piece set: XE7064-001
Optional accessories
The following are available as optional accessories to be purchased separately. Depending on the model you purchased, the following accessory may be included with your machine.
1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
6. 7. 8.
No. Part Name
1 Darning Plate XC6063-021 2 Button sewing foot “M” XE2137-001
3 Walking Foot SA107
4 Quilting Foot SA129
5 1/4-inch Quilting Foot SA125
Part Code
Americas Others
F034N: XC2165-002
F005N: XC1948-052
F001N: XC1944-052
No. Part Name
6 Narrow Hemmer Foot SA127
7 Blind Stitch Foot SA134
8 Quilting guide SA132
Part Code
Americas Others
F003N: XC1945-052
F018N: XC1976-052
F016N: XC2215-052
4
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
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1
2
3
4
6
7
8
9
5
A
0
E
D
G
B
F
C
THE MAIN PARTS
1 Bobbin winder (Page 11)
This winds the thread onto the bobbin for use as the lower thread.
2 Spool pin (Page 11, 15)
This holds the spool of thread.
3 Thread guide (Page 11, 15)
This is used when winding the thread onto the bobbin and then threading the machine.
4 Thread take-up lever (Page 16) 5 Upper tension-control dial (Page 22)
This controls the tension of the upper thread.
6 Thread cutter (Page 20)
Pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them.
7 Quick-set bobbin (Page 14, 17)
(This is only available on certain models.)
8 Flat bed attachment with accessory compartment
(Page 5)
9 Presser foot (Page 8) 0 Reverse sewing lever (Page 10)
Push this lever to stitch in the reverse direction.
A Buttonhole fine-adjustment screw (Page 28) B Pattern selection dial (Page 9)
Rotate the dial in either direction to choose the stitch you want.
C Handwheel
Used to manually raise and lower the needle.
D Main power and sewing light switch (Page 7)
You can turn the main power and sewing light switch on and off.
E Foot controller jack / socket (Page 6)
Plug in the foot controller plug and connect the machine to the power supply.
F Presser foot lever (Page 15)
Used to raise and lower the presser foot.
5
G Foot controller (Page 7)
You can use this to control the sewing speed, and to start and stop sewing.
Foot Controller:
Model KD-1902 for 110-120V area
KD-1902 for 110-127V area (Brazil only)
Model KD-2902 for 220-240V area The foot controller part code differs depending on the country or region. Contact your dealer or the nearest authorized service center.
Flat bed attachment
The accessories can be stored in a compartment inside the flat bed attachment.
Slide the flat bed attachment to the left to
1
open it.
1 Flat bed attachment 2 Storage compartment
1
2
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WARNING
Note
a
b
USING YOUR SEWING MACHINE
Use only regular household electricity for the power source. Using other power sources may
result in fire, electric shock, or damage to the machine.
Make sure that the plugs on the power cord are firmly inserted into the electrical outlet and
the power supply jack on the machine.
Do not insert the plug on the power cord into an electrical outlet that is in poor condition.
Turn off the main power and remove the plug in the following circumstances:
• When you are away from the machine
• After using the machine
• When the power fails during use
• When the machine does not operate correctly due to a bad connection or a disconnection
• During electrical storms
CAUTION
Use only the power cord included with this machine.
Do not use extension cords or multi-plug adapters with many other appliances plugged in to
them. Fire or electric shock may result.
Do not touch the plug with wet hands. Electric shock may result.
When unplugging the machine, always turn off the main power first. Always grasp the plug to remove it from the outlet. Pulling on the cord may damage the cord, or lead to fire or electric shock.
Do not allow the power cord to be cut, damaged, modified, forcefully bent, pulled, twisted,
or bundled. Do not place heavy objects on the cord. Do not subject the cord to heat. These things may damage the cord and cause fire or electric shock. If the cord or plug is damaged, take the machine to your authorized dealer for repairs before continuing use.
Unplug the power cord if the machine is not to be used for a long period of time. Otherwise
a fire may result.
1
Connecting plugs
Connect the foot controller plug to the
1
machine. Connect the power supply plug to a wall
2
outlet.
If a power outage occurs while the sewing machine is being operated, turn off the main power and unplug the power supply cord. When restarting the sewing machine, follow the necessary procedure to correctly operate the machine.
(For U.S.A. only)
This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other). To reduce the risk of electric shock, this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way.
6
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
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Note
2
1
1
2
1
2
1
Main power and sewing light switch
This switch turns the main power and sewing light on or off.
1 Turn on (toward the ‘I’ mark) 2 Turn off (toward the ‘O’ mark)
CAUTION
Do not turn on the machine while pressing down the foot controller. The machine may start unexpectedly and cause personal injury or damage to the machine.
Foot controller
When you press the foot controller down lightly, the machine will run at a low speed. When you press harder, the machine’s speed will increase. When you take your foot off the foot controller, the machine will stop.
1 Slower 2 Faster
You should make sure that nothing is placed on the foot controller when the machine is not in use.
CAUTION
Do not allow pieces of cloth and dust to
build up on the foot controller. Doing so could cause a fire or an electric shock.
Checking the needle
The sewing needle must always be straight and sharp for smooth sewing.
Checking the needle correctly
Put the flat side of the needle on a flat surface. Check the needle from the top and the sides. Dispose of any bent needles safely.
1 Parallel space 2 Level surface (bobbin cover, glass, etc.)
Replacing the needle
CAUTION
Always turn off the machine before you
change the needle. Otherwise, injuries may occur if the foot controller is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.
Only use sewing machine needles for
home use. Other needles may bend or break and cause injury.
Never sew with a bent needle. A bent
needle will easily break and cause injury.
Turn off the machine.
1
Raise the needle by turning the
2
handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) so that the mark on the wheel points up.
Lower the presser foot lever.
3
(For U.S.A. only)
Foot Controller: Model KD-1902 This foot controller can be used on the machine with product code 888-X55. The product code is mentioned on the machine rating plate.
7
1 Presser foot lever
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CAUTION
CAUTION
1
2
3
1
1 2 3
Changing the presser foot
Before replacing the needle, place fabric
or paper under the presser foot to prevent the needle from falling into the hole in the needle plate.
Hold the needle with your left hand, and
4
then use a screwdriver to turn the needle clamp screw counterclockwise to remove the needle.
1 Use a screwdriver
• Do not use excessive force when loosening or tightening the needle clamp screw, otherwise certain parts of the sewing machine may be damaged.
Always turn off the machine before you change the presser foot. If you leave the power on and step on the controller, the machine will start and you may be injured.
Always use the correct presser foot for
the stitch pattern you have chosen. If you use the wrong presser foot, the needle may strike the presser foot and bend or break, and may cause injury.
Only use presser feet that have been
designed to be used with this machine. Using any other presser foot may cause accident or injury.
You will have to change the presser foot depending on what you want to sew and how.
Turn off the machine.
1
Raise the presser foot lever. Raise the needle by turning the
2
handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) so that the mark on the wheel points up.
1
With the flat side of the needle toward the
5
back of the machine, insert the needle until it touches the needle stopper. Next, tighten the needle clamp using a screwdriver.
1 Use a screwdriver 2 Needle stopper 3 Needle
CAUTION
Make sure you insert the needle until it
touches the stopper, and securely tighten the needle clamp screw with a screwdriver, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.
3
Press the black
Remove the presser foot by pulling it vertically downward.
1
2
1 Presser foot holder 2 Presser foot
Put a different presser foot on the needle
4
plate so that the bar on the presser foot is in line with the slot on the shank.
|
button at the back of
|
the presser foot
|
holder to release the
|
presser foot.
| | | |
or
| | | | | |
1 Black button
|
2 Presser foot holder
|
3 Presser foot
8
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
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CAUTION
1
2
8910
11
12
13
2
Lower the presser foot lever and fix the
5
presser foot onto the shank. If the presser foot is in the correct place, the bar should snap in.
2
1 Shank 2 Bar
1
THE CONTROLS
Pattern selection dial
When you use the pattern selection dial
to choose a pattern, raise the needle by turning the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) so that the mark on the wheel points up. If the needle is in the down position when you turn the pattern selection dial, the needle, presser foot or fabric may be damaged.
To choose a stitch, simply turn the pattern selection dial in either direction.
Presser foot installation orientation
CAUTION
If the presser foot is not installed with
the correct orientation, the needle may strike the presser foot, which may bend or break the needle and cause injury.
Patterns and stitch names
1
*1 : Stitch nos. 15-17 are only available on certain
models.
Pattern
Stitch Name
4-STEP AUTOMATIC
BUTTONHOLE
2
3
Preset Length
(mm (inch))
Preset Width
(mm (inch))
1
4
14
0.5 (1/32)
5 (3/16)
5
*1
15
Reference
6 7
*1
16 17
Page
27
*1
9
1 Pattern selection dial 2 Chosen pattern number
0.7 (1/32)
ZIGZAG STITCH 1.8 (1/8)
3
ZIGZAG STITCH 3.3 (3/16)
1.5 (1/16)
23, 30, 31,
33
23, 30, 31,
33
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6
7
10
11
16
17
Pattern
Stitch Name
4
ZIGZAG STITCH 5 (3/16)
5
ZIGZAG (SATIN)
STITCH
STRAIGHT STITCH
(Center Needle
Position)
STRAIGHT STITCH
(Center Needle
Position)
8
STRAIGHT STITCH
(Center Needle
Position)
9
STRAIGHT STITCH
(Center Needle
Position)
Preset Length
(mm (inch))
Preset Width
(mm (inch))
2 (1/16)
0.5 (1/32)
5 (3/16)
1.6 (1/16)
1.8 (1/8)
2 (1/16)
3 (1/8)
Reference
Page
23, 30, 31,
33
23, 30
23, 32
23, 32
23, 32
23, 29, 30,
32, 33
Pattern
Stitch Name
14
STRETCH BLIND
HEM STITCH
15
OVEREDGE STITCH 5 (3/16)
DOUBLE ACTION
STITCH
BRIDGING STITCH 5 (3/16)
Preset Length
(mm (inch))
Preset Width
(mm (inch))
2 (1/16)
5 (3/16)
2 (1/16)
1.2 (1/16)
5 (3/16)
1.2 (1/16)
Reference
Page
24, 33
25
26
26
Reverse sewing lever
You can use reverse sewing for back tacking and reinforcing seams. To sew in reverse, push the reverse sewing lever in as far as possible and hold it in that position while you lightly push the foot controller. To sew forward, release the reverse sewing lever. The machine will then sew forward. The length of reverse stitches is fixed at 2 mm (1/16 inch).
1
4 (3/16)
STRAIGHT STITCH
(Center Needle
Position)
STRAIGHT STITCH
(Left Needle Position)
12
BLIND HEM STITCH 5 (3/16)
13
ELASTIC STITCH 5 (3/16)
2.5 (3/32)
2 (1/16)
1 (1/16)
23, 32
1
23, 30, 32
1 Reverse sewing lever
24, 33
25
10
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
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CAUTION
CAUTION
3
2
1
1 Pull the thread
in completely.
THREADING THE MACHINE
Winding the bobbin
We designed the bobbin that comes with this machine. If you use bobbins from other models,
the machine will not work properly. Only use the bobbin that comes with this machine or bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156, SFB: XA5539-151). Using other bobbins may cause damage to the machine.
Actual size
11.5 mm
(7/16 inch)
This model Other models
1 Pre-tension disk 2 Bobbin winder shaft 3 Bobbin
Pull up the spool pin and put a spool of
1
thread on this pin.
While holding the thread from the spool
2
with your right hand, pass the thread toward you, in the groove on the thread guide. Then, pass the thread around the pre-tension disk and pull the thread in completely.
11
If the spool of thread is in the wrong
place, or is set incorrectly, the thread may tangle on the spool pin.
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CAUTION
Note
3
1
2
1
2
Pass the end of the thread through the hole
3
on the bobbin from the inside of the bobbin.
Put the bobbin onto the bobbin winder
4
shaft and slide the bobbin winder shaft to the right. Turn the bobbin clockwise, by hand, until the projection slides into the notch of the bobbin.
• Make sure to pull out 7 to 10 cm (3-4 inches) of thread from the hole on the bobbin.
1 Projection 2 Notch 3 7-10 cm (3 – 4 inches)
CAUTION
Pull the thread taut and hold the end of
the thread straight up. If the thread is too short, not pulled taut or held at an angle, injuries may occur when the thread is wound around the bobbin.
Turn on the machine.
5
Trim the excess thread above the bobbin.
7
• Leave 1 cm (1/2 inch) of thread from the hole on the bobbin.
1
1 1 cm (1/2 inch)
CAUTION
Make sure you follow the instructions carefully. If you do not cut the excess thread completely before winding the bobbin, when the thread runs low it may tangle around the bobbin and cause the needle to break.
Press the foot controller to start.
8
When the bobbin seems full and begins
9
spinning slowly, take your foot off the foot controller.
Cut the thread, slide the bobbin winder
0
shaft to the left and remove the bobbin.
When the sewing machine is started or the handwheel is turned after winding the thread around the bobbin, the machine will make a clicking sound; this is not a malfunction.
The needle bar does not move when you
slide the bobbin winder shaft to the right.
1
Do not turn on the machine while pressing down the foot controller. The machine may start unexpectedly and cause personal injury or damage to the machine.
While holding the end of the thread,
6
gently press the foot controller to wind the thread around the bobbin a few times. Then stop the machine.
CAUTION
Not winding the bobbin properly may
cause the thread tension to loosen, and may break the needle.
1 Wound evenly 2 Wound poorly
12
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
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CAUTION
CAUTION
1
1
Hold the end of the thread, push the
5
Lower threading
Install the bobbin wound with thread.
• For more details on using the quick-set bobbin, see page 14.
Make sure you turn off the machine
bobbin down with your finger, and then pass the thread through the slit, as shown.
• If the thread is not correctly inserted through the tension-adjusting spring of the bobbin case, it may cause incorrect thread tension.
while threading. If you accidentally step on the foot controller and the machine starts to sew, you could be injured.
Prepare the bobbin wound properly
1
before threading the lower thread.
• See page 11 for the details about bobbin winding.
Raise the needle by turning the handwheel
2
toward you (counterclockwise) and raise the presser foot lever.
Remove the bobbin cover by sliding it and
3
lift toward you.
1 Tension-adjusting spring
Replace the bobbin cover. Put the
6
projection into the race retainer groove and push closed.
1 Bobbin cover
Put the bobbin in so the thread comes out
4
in the direction shown by the arrow.
Make sure you set the bobbin so the thread unrolls in the right direction. If the thread unrolls in the wrong direction, it may cause the thread tension to be incorrect or break the needle.
13
1
2
1 Groove 2 Projection
• Make sure that the end of the thread comes out from the cover toward the rear of the machine (as shown in the illustration).
• Draw up the lower thread before starting sewing. Refer to “Drawing up the lower thread” on page 17 after threading the upper thread.
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Note
1
2
2
3
1
1
1
2
Replace the bobbin cover. Put the
Lower threading (for models equipped with a
3
projection into the race retainer groove and push closed.
quick-set bobbin)
Install the bobbin wound with thread. This feature is only available on certain models.
Follow steps 1 to 4 from “Lower
1
threading” on page 13. While lightly holding down the bobbin
2
with your right hand as shown, guide the thread through the slit (1 and 2). Then, pull the thread toward you to cut it with the cutter (3).
• At this time, check that the bobbin easily rotates counterclockwise.
1 Slit 2 Cutter (Cut the thread with the cutter.)
1 Groove 2 Projection
• Start sewing after threading the lower and upper thread. When sewing gathers or darts, you can draw up the lower thread by hand so that some thread will be left over. Refer to the steps in “Drawing up the lower thread” (page 17).
1
If the thread is not correctly inserted through the tension-adjusting spring of the bobbin case, it may cause incorrect thread tension.
1 Tension-adjusting spring
14
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
————
CAUTION
4
3
2
2
1
5
1
1
Upper threading
1 Spool pin 2 Thread guide (back) 3 Thread guide (front)
4 Thread take-up lever 5 Mark on the handwheel
CAUTION
When threading the upper thread, carefully follow the instructions. If the upper threading is
not correct, the thread may become tangled or the needle may bend or break.
Never use a thread weight of 20 or lower.
Use the needle and the thread in the correct combination. For details on the correct
combination of needles and threads, refer to “FABRIC, THREAD, AND NEEDLE COMBINATIONS” on page 18.
Turn off the machine.
1
Raise the presser foot lever.
2
1 Presser foot lever
Raise the needle by turning the
3
handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) so that the mark on the wheel points up.
• If the needle is not correctly raised, the sewing machine can not be threaded.
Pull up the spool pin and put a spool of
4
thread on this pin.
If the spool of thread is in the wrong
place, or is set incorrectly, the thread may tangle on the spool pin and cause the needle to break.
1 Mark on the wheel
15
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Memo
Note
1
2
3
4
5
1
1
1
While holding the thread from the spool
5
with your right hand, pass the thread toward you, in the groove on the thread guide.
• Make sure that the spring in the groove catches the thread.
1
1 Spring
Feed the upper thread as shown in the
6
following illustration.
Make sure you guide the thread through
7
the thread take-up lever from right to left as shown in the following illustration.
Put the thread behind the guide above the
8
needle.
• The thread can easily be passed behind the needle bar thread guide by holding the thread in your left hand, then feeding the thread with your right hand.
1 Needle bar thread guide
Thread the needle from front to back
9
leaving a thread tail of about 5 cm (2 inches).
1
1 Thread take-up lever
If the thread take-up lever is lowered, the upper thread can not be wrapped around the thread take-up lever. Make sure you raise the needle by turning the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) so that the mark on the wheel points up.
1
1 5 cm (2 inches)
Make sure you raise the presser foot lever and the thread take-up lever before you feed the upper thread.
If you incorrectly feed the thread you may cause sewing problems.
16
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
————
1
1
2
2
Drawing up the lower thread
While lightly holding the end of the upper
1
thread, slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) by hand to lower and then raise the needle.
Pull on the upper thread to draw up the
2
lower thread.
1 Upper thread 2 Lower thread
Pull out about 10 cm (4 inches) of both
3
threads and put them toward the back of the machine under the presser foot.
For models equipped with a quick-set
bobbin
You can begin sewing immediately without drawing up the bobbin thread. When sewing gathers or darts, you can draw up the lower thread by hand so that some thread will be left over. Before you draw up the lower thread, put the bobbin back in.
Remove the bobbin cover, and then
1
reinstall the bobbin. Pass the thread along the slit in the
2
direction of the arrow, and leave it there without cutting it.
• The bobbin cover should still be removed.
Draw up the lower thread as described in
3
the previous steps Replace the bobbin cover.
4
1 to 3.
17
1
2
1 Upper thread 2 Lower thread
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Note
Memo
FABRIC, THREAD, AND NEEDLE COMBINATIONS
Fabric Type/Application
Medium weight
fabrics
Thin fabrics
Thick fabrics
Stretch fabrics
Easily frayed fabrics
For top-stitching
Broadcloth Cotton thread
Taffeta Synthetic thread
Flannel, Gabardine Silk thread 50
Lawn Cotton thread
Georgette Synthetic thread
Challis, Satin Silk thread 50
Denim Cotton thread
Corduroy Synthetic thread
Tweed Silk thread
Jersey
Tricot
Type Size
Thread for knits 50–60
Cotton thread
Silk thread 50
Synthetic thread
Silk thread
Thread
Size of Needle
60–90
60–90
30 100/16 50
50–60
50–90
30 100/16
50–60 75/11–90/14
75/11–90/14
65/9–75/11
90/14–100/16
Ball point needle
75/11–90/14
(gold colored)
65/9–90/14Synthetic thread
1
Never use a thread weighted #20 or lower. It may cause machine malfunction.
The lower the thread number, the thicker the thread; and the higher the needle number, the thicker the
needle.
Ball point needle
Use the ball point needle when sewing on stretch fabrics or fabrics where skipped stitches easily occur. The factory recommended needle is “HG-4BR” (Organ). Schmetz needles “JERSEY BALL POINT” 130/705H SUK 90/14 may be used as a substitute.
Transparent nylon thread
Use a 90/14 to 100/16 needle, regardless of the fabric or thread.
CAUTION
Make sure you follow the needle, thread, and fabric combinations listed in the table.
Using the wrong combination, such as heavyweight fabric like denim with a small needle (65/9-75/11), may bend or break the needle. The wrong combination may also cause the seam to be uneven, the fabric to pucker, or the machine to skip stitches.
18
SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
————
CAUTION
1
2 SEWING BASICS
Please read before sewing
CAUTION
To avoid being injured, watch the needle carefully while you are using the machine. Keep
your hands away from moving parts.
Do not stretch or pull the fabric during sewing, otherwise the needle may be damaged and
you may be injured.
Do not use bent or broken needles, otherwise you may be injured.
Take care that the needle does not hit basting pins or other objects during sewing. The needle
may break and you may be injured.
Always use the correct presser foot. If you use the wrong presser foot, the needle may hit the
presser foot and bend or break and you may be injured.
When you turn the handwheel by hand, always turn it toward you (counterclockwise).
Turning it the other way may cause the thread to tangle and damage the needle or fabric, and you may be injured.
Do not start sewing without placing the fabric under the presser foot, otherwise the presser
foot may be damaged.
Raise the presser foot lever.
Starting sewing
Turn on the machine.
1
5
Do not turn on the machine while pressing down the foot controller. The machine may start unexpectedly and cause personal injury or damage to the machine.
Raise the needle by turning the
2
handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) so that the mark on the wheel points up.
Turn the pattern selection dial to select a
3
stitch (see page 9). Change the presser foot (see page 8).
4
19
1 Presser foot lever
Place the fabric under the presser foot,
6
pass the thread under the presser foot, and then pull out about 5 cm (2 inches) of thread toward the rear of the machine.
1
1 5 cm (2 inches)
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1
1
While holding the end of the thread and
7
the fabric with your left hand, turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) with your right hand to lower the needle to the starting point of the stitching.
Trial sewing
A trial piece of fabric should be sewn. Use a piece of fabric and thread that are the same as those used for your project, and check the thread tension and stitch length and width.
Changing the sewing direction
Stop the machine with the needle in the fabric at the point where you want to change the sewing direction,
Lower the presser foot lever.
8
1 Presser foot lever
Slowly press down on the foot controller.
9
and then raise the presser foot lever. Using the needle as a pivot, turn the fabric, lower the presser foot lever, and then continue sewing.
Sewing thick fabrics
If the fabric does not fit under the presser
foot
If the fabric does not fit easily under the presser foot,
X The machine starts sewing.
Take your foot off the foot controller.
0
X The machine stops sewing.
• You can use reverse sewing for back tacking and reinforcing seams by pressing the reverse sewing lever. Refer to “Reverse sewing lever” on page 10 for the details.
Raise the needle by turning the
a
handwheel toward you (counterclockwise).
Raise the presser foot lever.
b
Pull the fabric to the left side of the
c
machine, and then pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them.
.
raise the presser foot lever even higher to bring the presser foot to its highest position.
CAUTION
If fabric more than 6 mm (15/64 inch)
thick is sewn or if the fabric is pushed with too much force, the needle may bend or break.
2
1 Thread cutter
20
SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
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Note
Memo
1
1
1
1
2
3
4
Sewing thin fabrics
When sewing thin fabrics, the stitching may become misaligned or the fabric may not feed correctly. If this occurs, place thin paper or stabilizer material under the fabric and sew it together with the fabric. When you have finished sewing, tear off any excess paper.
1 Stabilizer material or paper
When you are finished with free-arm sewing, install the flat bed attachment back in its original position.
Slide the part that you wish to sew onto
2
the arm, and then sew from the top.
Sewing stretch fabrics
First, baste the pieces of fabric together, and then sew without stretching the fabric.
1 Basting
Stitching cylindrical pieces
Removing the flat bed attachment makes it easier to sew cylindrical pieces such as cuffs and pant legs, or hard­to-reach areas.
Slide the flat bed attachment to the left to
1
release it.
1 Flat bed attachment
X With the flat bed attachment removed,
free-arm sewing is possible.
Thread tension
The tension of the thread will affect the quality of your stitches. You may need to adjust it when you change fabric or thread.
We recommend that you do a test sample on scrap of a fabric before you start to sew.
Correct tension
Correct tension is important as too much or too little tension will weaken your seams or cause puckers on your fabric.
1 Surface of fabric 2 Back of fabric 3 Upper thread 4 Lower thread
21
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Note
Note
1
2
3
4
5
Upper tension is too tight
Loops will appear on the surface of the fabric.
If the bobbin thread was incorrectly threaded, the upper thread may be too tight. In this case, refer to “Lower threading” on page 13 and rethread the bobbin thread.
2
1
2
3
4
Solution Reduce the tension by turning the upper tension control dial to a lower number.
5
1 Surface of fabric 2 Back of fabric 3 Upper thread 4 Lower thread 5 Loops appear on
surface of fabric
Upper tension is too loose
Loops appear on the back of the fabric.
If the upper thread was incorrectly threaded, the upper thread may be too loose. In this case, refer to “Upper threading” on page 15 and rethread the upper thread.
1 Surface of fabric 2 Back of fabric 3 Upper thread 4 Lower thread 5 Loops appear on back
of fabric
Solution Increase the tension by turning the upper tension control dial to a higher number.
22
BUILT-IN STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
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7
10
3
1
2
3 BUILT-IN STITCHES
Zigzag stitch
Straight stitching
Straight stitches are used for sewing plain seams.
6
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
1.6 (1/16)
Stitch Name Pattern
Straight Stitch
(Center Needle Position)
Turn the pattern selection dial to the Zigzag Stitch, and then start sewing.
Straight Stitch
(Center Needle Position)
Straight Stitch
(Center Needle Position)
Straight Stitch
(Center Needle Position)
Straight Stitch
(Center Needle Position)
Straight Stitch
(Left Needle Position)
8
9
11
1.8 (1/8)
2 (1/16)
3 (1/8)
4 (3/16)
2.5 (3/32)
Top stitching and stretch materials
You can use a straight stitch for top stitching and sewing lightweight fabrics.
Zigzag stitching
Stitch
2
Length
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Name Pattern
Zigzag Stitch 0.7 (1/32) 1.8 (1/8)
Zigzag Stitch 1.5 (1/16) 3.3 (3/16)
Stitch Width [mm (inch)]
We recommend that you sew using the Straight Stitch at the beginning and end of Zigzag Stitches. (This acts as a reinforcement stitch.)
Zigzag (Satin) Stitch
You can use the Zigzag (Satin) Stitch for making decorative stitches. When sewing a Zigzag (Satin) Stitch, use a slightly looser upper-thread tension to produce more beautiful stitches. With the pattern selection dial, the Zigzag (Satin) Stitch (number 5) can be set to one of three stitch lengths. The middle position is the setting for the standard stitch length.
5
1 For a shorter stitch length, turn the pattern
selecting dial to the left position of Zigzag (Satin) Stitch (number 5).
2 For a longer stitch length, turn the pattern
selecting dial to the right position of Zigzag (Satin) Stitch (number 5).
Zigzag Stitch 2 (1/16) 5 (3/16)
Zigzag (Satin)
Stitch
4
5
0.5 (1/32) 5 (3/16)
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