Brother Innov-is 1250D, SB8000, SE1800 Operation Manual

GETTING READY

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SEWING BASICS

UTILITY STITCHES

EMBROIDERY

APPENDIX

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Computerized Embroidery and Sewing Machine

Operation Manual

Product Code: 885-U01/U04

Be sure to read this document before using the machine. We recommend that you keep this document nearby for future reference.

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IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

Please read these safety instructions before attempting to use the machine.

DANGER - To reduce the risk of electric shock:

1Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet immediately after using, when cleaning,

when making any user servicing adjustments mentioned in this manual, or if you are leaving the machine unattended.

WARNING - To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or

injury to persons.

2Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet when making any adjustments mentioned

in the instruction manual:

• To unplug the machine, switch the machine to the symbol “O” position to turn it off, then grasp

the plug and pull it out of the electrical outlet. Do not pull on the cord.

• Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet. Do not use an extension cord.

• Always unplug your machine if the power is cut.

3Electrical Hazards:

• This machine should be connected to an AC power source within the range indicated on the rating label. Do not connect it to a DC power source or inverter. If you are not sure what kind of power source you have, contact a qualified electrician.

• This machine is approved for use in the country of purchase only.

4Never operate this machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has

been dropped or damaged, or water is spilled on the unit. Return the machine to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.

• While the machine is stored or in use if you notice anything unusual, such as an odor, heat, discoloration or deformation, stop using the machine and immediately unplug the power cord.

• When transporting the sewing machine, be sure to carry it by its handle. Lifting the sewing machine by any other part may damage the machine or result in the machine falling, which could cause injuries.

• When lifting the sewing machine, be careful not to make any sudden or careless movements, otherwise you may injure your back or knees.

5Always keep your work area clear:

• Never operate the machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the sewing machine and foot control free from the build up of lint, dust, and loose cloth.

• Do not store objects on the foot controller.

• Do not use extension cords. Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet.

• Never drop or insert any object into any opening.

•

Do not

operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.

• Do not use the machine near a heat source, such as a stove or iron; otherwise, the machine, power cord or garment being sewn may ignite, resulting in fire or an electric shock.

• Do not place this sewing machine on an unstable surface, such as an unsteady or slanted table, otherwise the sewing machine may fall, resulting in injuries.

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6Special care is required when sewing:

• Always pay close attention to the needle. Do not use bent or damaged needles.

• Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the machine needle.

• Switch the sewing machine to the symbol “O” position to turn it off when making any adjustments in the needle area.

• Do not use a damaged or incorrect needle plate, as it could cause the needle to break.

• Do not push or pull the fabric when sewing, and follow careful instruction when freehand stitching so that you do not deflect the needle and cause it to break.

7This machine is not a toy:

• Your close attention is necessary when the machine is used by or near children.

• The plastic bag that this sewing machine was supplied in should be kept out of the reach of children or disposed of. Never allow children to play with the bag due to the danger of suffocation.

• Do not use outdoors.

8For a longer service life:

• When storing this machine, avoid direct sunlight and high humidity locations. Do not use or store the machine near a space heater, iron, halogen lamp, or other hot objects.

• Use only neutral soaps or detergents to clean the case. Benzene, thinner, and scouring powders can damage the case and machine, and should never be used.

• Always consult the operation manual when replacing or installing any assemblies, the presser feet, needle, or other parts to assure correct installation.

9For repair or adjustment:

• If the Light unit (light-emitting diode) is damaged, it must be replaced by authorized dealer.

• In the event a malfunction occurs or adjustment is required, first follow the troubleshooting table in the back of the operation manual to inspect and adjust the machine yourself. If the problem persists, please consult your local authorized Brother dealer.

Use this machine only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use accessories recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual. The contents of this manual and specifications of this product are subject to change without notice. For additional product information, visit our web site at www.brother.com

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SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS

This machine is intended for household use.

FOR USERS IN COUNTRIES EXCEPT EUROPEAN COUNTRIES

This appliance is not intended for use by persons (including children) with reduced physical, sensory or mental capabilities, or lack of experience and knowledge, unless they have been given supervision or instruction concerning use of the appliance by a person responsible for their safety. Children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with the appliance.

FOR USERS IN EUROPEAN COUNTRIES

This appliance can be used by children aged from 8 years and above and persons with reduced physical, sensory or mental capabilities or lack of experience and knowledge if they have been given supervision or instruction concerning use of the appliance in a safe way and understand the hazards involved. Children shall not play with the appliance. Cleaning and user maintenance shall not be made by children without supervision.

FOR USERS IN THE UK, EIRE,

MALTA AND CYPRUS ONLY

IMPORTANT

• In the event of replacing the plug fuse, use a fuse approved by ASTA to BS 1362, i.e. carrying the

mark, rating as marked on plug.

• Always replace the fuse cover. Never use plugs with the fuse cover omitted.

• If the available electrical outlet is not suitable for the plug supplied with this equipment, you should contact your authorized dealer to obtain the correct lead.

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Contents

IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS ...............................................................................1

Introduction ........................................................................................................................ 9

Sewing Machine Features .................................................................................................... 9

Accessories ........................................................................................................................10

Included accessories .......................................................................................................................................10

Optional accessories.......................................................................................................................................12

Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions ................................................................... 13

Front view.......................................................................................................................................................13

Needle and presser foot section ......................................................................................................................14

Right-side/rear view ........................................................................................................................................14

Operation buttons...........................................................................................................................................15

Operation panel..............................................................................................................................................16

GETTING READY 17

Turning the Machine On/Off............................................................................................. 18

Power supply precautions ...............................................................................................................................18

Turning on the machine.................................................................................................................................. 19

Turning off the machine..................................................................................................................................19

LCD (Liquid Crystal Display) Operation............................................................................ 20

Viewing the LCD.............................................................................................................................................20

Changing the machine settings........................................................................................................................21

Checking machine operating procedures ........................................................................................................23

Winding/Installing the Bobbin...........................................................................................25

Bobbin precautions .........................................................................................................................................25

Winding the bobbin ........................................................................................................................................25

Installing the bobbin .......................................................................................................................................29

Upper Threading ............................................................................................................... 31

About the spool of thread ................................................................................................................................31

Threading the upper thread .............................................................................................................................32

Threading the needle ...................................................................................................................................... 34

Threading the needle manually (without using the needle threader) ................................................................ 35

Using the twin needle ..................................................................................................................................... 36

Pulling up the bobbin thread...........................................................................................................................39

Replacing the Needle ........................................................................................................40

Needle precautions.........................................................................................................................................40

Needle types and their uses............................................................................................................................. 41

Checking the needle ....................................................................................................................................... 42

Replacing the needle.......................................................................................................................................42

Replacing the Presser Foot ................................................................................................44

Presser foot precautions .................................................................................................................................. 44

Replacing the presser foot ...............................................................................................................................44

Removing and attaching the presser foot holder..............................................................................................46

Sewing Cylindrical Pieces.................................................................................................. 47

Free-arm sewing..............................................................................................................................................47

SEWING BASICS 49

Sewing...............................................................................................................................50

General sewing procedure .............................................................................................................................. 50

Selecting stitching ...........................................................................................................................................51

Positioning the fabric ......................................................................................................................................52

Starting to sew.................................................................................................................................................53

Securing the stitching......................................................................................................................................55

Cutting the thread ...........................................................................................................................................56

Setting the Stitch ............................................................................................................... 58

Adjusting the stitch width................................................................................................................................ 58

Adjusting the stitch length ............................................................................................................................... 59

Adjusting the thread tension............................................................................................................................ 59

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Useful Functions................................................................................................................61

Automatically sewing reverse/reinforcement stitches.......................................................................................61

Automatically cutting the thread .....................................................................................................................62

Mirroring stitches ............................................................................................................................................63

Useful Sewing Tips ............................................................................................................ 64

Trial sewing ....................................................................................................................................................64

Changing the sewing direction........................................................................................................................64

Sewing curves.................................................................................................................................................64

Adjusting the presser foot pressure ..................................................................................................................64

Sewing thick fabrics ........................................................................................................................................65

Sewing thin fabrics..........................................................................................................................................66

Sewing stretch fabrics......................................................................................................................................66

Sewing leathers or vinyl fabrics.......................................................................................................................66

Sewing an even seam allowance..................................................................................................................... 66

Hands-free raising and lowering of the presser foot.........................................................................................67

Sewing hook-and-loop fastener ....................................................................................................................... 68

UTILITY STITCHES 69

Stitch Setting Chart ........................................................................................................... 70

Utility stitches .................................................................................................................................................70

Other stitches..................................................................................................................................................74

Selecting Stitching .............................................................................................................77

Stitch types......................................................................................................................................................77

Selecting stitching ...........................................................................................................................................77

Saving stitch settings .......................................................................................................................................79

Overcasting Stitches ..........................................................................................................81

Sewing overcasting stitches using overcasting foot “G” ...................................................................................81

Sewing overcasting stitches using zigzag foot “J”............................................................................................. 82

Sewing overcasting stitches using the optional side cutter ...............................................................................83

Basic Stitching ................................................................................................................... 85

Basting ............................................................................................................................................................85

Basic stitching.................................................................................................................................................85

Blind Hem Stitching ..........................................................................................................87

Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing..................................................................................89

Buttonhole sewing ..........................................................................................................................................90

Button sewing .................................................................................................................................................94

Zipper Insertion.................................................................................................................96

Inserting a centered zipper ..............................................................................................................................96

Inserting a side zipper .....................................................................................................................................98

Zipper/piping Insertion ...................................................................................................101

Inserting a centered zipper ............................................................................................................................101

Inserting a piping ..........................................................................................................................................102

Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape .......................................................................... 103

Stretch stitching.............................................................................................................................................103

Elastic attaching ............................................................................................................................................103

Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching ........................................................................ 105

Appliqué stitching .........................................................................................................................................106

Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching ................................................................................................................... 107

Piecing..........................................................................................................................................................107

Quilting ........................................................................................................................................................109

Free-motion quilting......................................................................................................................................110

Satin stitching using the sewing speed controller........................................................................................... 111

Reinforcement Stitching .................................................................................................. 113

Triple stretch stitching...................................................................................................................................113

Bar tack stitching...........................................................................................................................................113

Darning......................................................................................................................................................... 115

Eyelet Stitching ................................................................................................................117

Horizontal Stitching ........................................................................................................ 118

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Decorative Stitching ........................................................................................................120

Fagoting........................................................................................................................................................121

Scallop stitching............................................................................................................................................122

Smocking......................................................................................................................................................122

Shell tuck stitching ........................................................................................................................................123

Joining ..........................................................................................................................................................124

Heirloom stitching ........................................................................................................................................125

Sewing the Various Built-in Decorative Patterns ............................................................. 128

Sewing beautiful patterns ..............................................................................................................................128

Sewing patterns.............................................................................................................................................128

Changing the pattern size..............................................................................................................................129

Changing the stitch density ........................................................................................................................... 129

Changing the length for satin stitches ............................................................................................................ 130

Shifting patterns ............................................................................................................................................131

Combining patterns.......................................................................................................................................132

Saving patterns..............................................................................................................................................135

Realigning the pattern ...................................................................................................................................136

Designing a Pattern (My Custom Stitch) .......................................................................... 139

Drawing a sketch of the pattern.....................................................................................................................139

Entering the pattern data ............................................................................................................................... 140

Examples of designs ......................................................................................................................................142

EMBROIDERY 143

Successful Embroidering..................................................................................................144

What to prepare............................................................................................................................................144

Embroidery step by step ................................................................................................................................146

Attaching the Embroidery Foot........................................................................................147

Attaching the embroidery foot.......................................................................................................................147

Removing the embroidery foot ...................................................................................................................... 149

Attaching the Embroidery Unit........................................................................................150

Embroidery unit precautions ......................................................................................................................... 150

Attaching the embroidery unit.......................................................................................................................150

Removing the embroidery unit ...................................................................................................................... 152

Preparing the Fabric ........................................................................................................ 153

Attaching an optional stabilizer material to the fabric....................................................................................153

Setting the fabric in the embroidery frame.....................................................................................................154

Attaching the Embroidery Frame..................................................................................... 157

Attaching the embroidery frame .................................................................................................................... 157

Removing the embroidery frame ................................................................................................................... 158

Selecting Embroidery Patterns......................................................................................... 159

Copyright information .................................................................................................................................. 159

Embroidery pattern types...............................................................................................................................159

LCD (liquid crystal display) operation ...........................................................................................................160

Selecting an embroidery pattern....................................................................................................................162

Selecting characters ......................................................................................................................................163

Selecting a frame pattern............................................................................................................................... 164

Using an embroidery card (sold separately)...................................................................................................165

Embroidering................................................................................................................... 166

Sewing attractive finishes .............................................................................................................................. 166

Embroidering a pattern.................................................................................................................................. 167

Appliquéing .................................................................................................................................................169

Editing Patterns ...............................................................................................................171

Adjusting the layout......................................................................................................................................171

Adjusting the thread tension.......................................................................................................................... 173

Adjusting the alternate bobbin case (with no color on the screw) ..................................................................174

Resewing ......................................................................................................................................................175

Thread runs out partway through a design.....................................................................................................175

Stopping while embroidering ........................................................................................................................176

Using the Memory Function ............................................................................................ 178

Embroidery data precautions......................................................................................................................... 178

Saving patterns..............................................................................................................................................180

Transferring embroidery patterns from the computer to machine...................................................................181

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APPENDIX 183

Care and Maintenance ....................................................................................................184

Restrictions on oiling.....................................................................................................................................184

Precautions on storing the machine...............................................................................................................184

Cleaning the machine surface .......................................................................................................................184

Cleaning the race..........................................................................................................................................184

Troubleshooting ..............................................................................................................186

Frequent troubleshooting topics ....................................................................................................................186

Upper thread tightened up ............................................................................................................................186

Tangled thread on wrong side of fabric .........................................................................................................187

Incorrect thread tension ................................................................................................................................ 189

Fabric is caught in the machine and cannot be removed...............................................................................190

When the thread became tangled under the bobbin winder seat ...................................................................193

List of symptoms ...........................................................................................................................................195

Error messages ..............................................................................................................................................201

Adjusting the LCD.........................................................................................................................................204

Operation beep.............................................................................................................................................204

Canceling the operation beep .......................................................................................................................205

Upgrading Your Machine’s Software Using USB Media ..................................................206

Index ............................................................................................................................... 207

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Introduction

Thank you for purchasing this sewing machine. Before using this sewing machine, carefully read the “IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS” (page 1), and then study this manual for the correct operation of the various functions. In addition, after you have finished reading this manual, store it where it can quickly be accessed for future reference.

Sewing Machine Features

a Simple bobbin-winding

The bobbin can quickly and easily be wound with thread (page 25).

b Built-in stitches

You can select from the built-in stitches available, including utility stitches and decorative stitches (page 70).

c Quick-set bobbin

You can start sewing without pulling up the bobbin thread (page 29).

d Automatic thread cutting

The thread can be cut automatically after sewing (page 62).

e Embroidery

You can embroider built-in embroidery patterns, characters, framed decorations, and designs from optional embroidery cards (page 143).

f Knee lifter

Use the knee lifter to raise and lower the presser foot with your knee, leaving both hands free to handle the fabric (

Introduction / Sewing Machine Features 9

page 67

).

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Note

Accessories

Included accessories

After opening the box, check that the following accessories are included. If any item is missing or damaged, contact your dealer.

(For U.S.A. only)

z Foot controller: Model T

This foot controller can be used on the machine with product code:885-U01/U04. The product code is mentioned on the machine rating plate.

z The screw for the presser foot holder is

available through your authorized dealer. (Part code: 132730-122)

z The organized accessory tray is available

through your authorized dealer. (Part code: XC4489-051)

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10.

11. 12. 13. 14.* 15. 16. 17. 18. 19.

20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25. 26.

27.

32. 33. 34. 35. 36. 37.

38. *75/11 2 needles

90/14 2 needles 90/14 2 needles: Ball point needle

28.

29. 30. 31.

(gold colored)

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No. Part Name

1 Buttonhole foot “A” XC2691-023 2 Overcasting foot “G” XC3098-031 3 Monogramming foot “N” XD0810-031 4 Zipper foot “I” X59370-021

Zigzag foot “J” (on

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machine) 6 Blind stitch foot “R” XE2650-001 7 Button fitting foot “M” XE2643-001

8 Stitch guide foot “P” SA160

Adjustable zipper/piping 9

foot

10 Non stick foot SA114

11 Open toe foot SA186

12 Seam ripper XZ5082-001

13 Bobbin (4) SA156

14 Needle set X58358-021 15 Twin needle X59296-121 16 Cleaning brush X59476-021 17 Eyelet punch XZ5051-001 18 Screwdriver (large) XC8349-021 19 Screwdriver (small) X55468-021 20 Spool cap (large) 130012-024 21 Spool cap (medium) (2) XE1372-001 22 Spool cap (small) 130013-124

Part Code

Americas Others

XZ5134-001

XC1969-052

SA161

XC1970-052

XC1949-052

XE1094-101

XA5539-151

F035N:

F036N:

F007N:

F060:

SFB:

No. Part Name

23 Extra spool pin XC4654-151 24 Spool net XA5523-020

25 Foot controller

26 Operation manual XE6389-201 27 Quick reference guide XD1237-221 28 Embroidery foot “Q” XD0474-151

Embroidery set (large) H 18 cm

29

(H 7 inches × W 5 inches)

Embroidery set (extra large (multi-position))

30

H 30 cm × W 13 cm (H 12 inches × W 5 inches)

Embroidery bobbin

31

thread (white) Alternate bobbin case

32

(no color on the screw) 33 Knee lifter XA6941-052 34 Grid sheet set XC4549-020 35 Scissors XC1807-121 36 Hard case XC9701-052 37 Accessory bag XC4487-021 38 Disc-shaped screwdriver XC1074-051

×

W 13 cm

Part Code

Americas Others

XZ5098-001(EU area)

XZ5100-001(other areas)

SA444

SA445

SA-EBT

XF1080-001

XG2203-001

EBT-CEN:

X81164-001

XC8167-551

EF84:

EF85:

Accessories 11

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Memo

Optional accessories

The following are available as optional accessories to be purchased separately.

1. 2. 3.

4. 5.

6. 7.

8. 9. 10.

11. 12. 13.

No. Part Name

Embroidery bobbin

thread (white)

1

Embroidery bobbin

thread (black)

2 Embroidery card ⎯

Embroidery set (small)

3

H 2 cm

×

(H 1 inch × W 2-1/2 inches)

Embroidery set

(medium)

H 10 cm × W 10 cm

4

(H 4 inches × W 4

inches)

Water solude stabilizer SA520

5

Stabilizer material for

embroidery

6 Wide table SA551

7 Walking foot SA140

8 Quilting foot SA129

9 1/4 inch quilting foot SA125

10 Side cutter “S” SA177

11 Quilting guide SA132

1/4 inch quilting foot 12

with guide

13 Circular attachment SACIRC1

W 6 cm

Part Code

Americas Others

SA-EBT

SAEBT999

SA442

SA443

SA519

SA185

EBT-CEN:

X81164-001 EBT-CEBN:

XC5520-001

EF82:

XG2147-001

EF83:

XG2108-001

BM5:

XE0615-001

BM3:

XE0806-001

WT5:

XC9567-222

F033N:

XC2214-052

F005N:

XC1948-052

F001N:

XC1944-052

F054:

XC3879-152

F016N:

XC2215-052

F057:

XC7416-252

CIRC1:

XE3527-001

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z To obtain optional accessories or parts,

contact your sales representative or the nearest authorized service center. All specifications are correct at the time of

z

printing. The part codes are subject to change without notice.

z Visit your nearest authorized retailer for a

complete listing of optional accessories available for your machine.

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Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions

The names of the various parts of the sewing machine and their functions are described below. Before using the sewing machine, carefully read these descriptions to learn the names of the machine parts.

Front view

a Thread guide plate

Pass the thread under the thread guide plate.

b Thread guide cover

Pass the thread behind the thread guide cover when threading the upper thread.

c Spool pin

Place a spool of thread on the spool pin.

d Bobbin winding thread guide and pretension disk

Pass the thread under this thread guide and around the pretension disk when winding the bobbin thread.

e Top cover

Open the top cover to place the spool of thread on the spool pin.

f Bobbin winder

Use the bobbin winder when winding the bobbin.

g Operation panel

From the operation panel, stitch settings can be viewed and edited, and operations for using the machine can be displayed (page 16).

h Knee lifter mounting slot

Insert the knee lifter into the knee lifter mounting slot.

i Embroidery unit connector slot

Plug in the connector for the embroidery unit.

j Presser foot lever

Raise and lower the presser foot lever to raise and lower the presser foot.

k Operation buttons and sewing speed controller

Use these buttons and the slide to operate the sewing machine (page 15).

l Flat bed attachment

Insert the accessories tray into the accessory compartment of the flat bed attachment. Remove the flat bed attachment when sewing cylindrical pieces such as sleeve cuffs.

m Thread cutter

Pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them.

n Needle threader lever

Use the needle threader lever to thread the needle.

o Thread take-up lever check window

Look through the window to check the position of the take-up lever.

Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions 13

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Memo

Needle and presser foot section

a Buttonhole lever

The buttonhole lever is used with the one-step buttonhole foot to create buttonholes.

b Thread guide disk

Pass the thread through the thread guide disk when using the needle threader to thread the needle.

c Needle bar thread guide

Pass the upper thread through the needle bar thread guide.

d Needle plate

The needle plate is marked with guides to help sew straight seams.

e Needle plate cover

Remove the needle plate cover to clean the bobbin case and race.

f Bobbin cover

Open the bobbin cover to set the bobbin.

g Feed dogs

The feed dogs feed the fabric in the sewing direction.

h Presser foot

The presser foot applies pressure consistently on the fabric as sewing takes place. Attach the appropriate presser foot for the selected stitch.

i Presser foot holder

The presser foot is attached onto the presser foot holder.

Right-side/rear view

a Handle

Carry the sewing machine by its handle when transporting the machine.

b Handwheel

Turn the handwheel toward you to raise and lower the needle. The handwheel should be turned towards you (counterclockwise).

c Embroidery card slot

Insert the embroidery card.

d USB port (for a USB flash drive (USB flash memory))

In order to import patterns from a USB flash drive (USB flash memory), plug the USB media directly into the USB port.

e Air vent

The air vent allows the air surrounding the motor to circulate. Do not cover the air vent while the sewing machine is being used.

f Main power switch

Use the main power switch to turn the sewing machine ON and OFF.

g Foot controller jack

Insert the plug on the end of the foot controller cable into the foot controller jack.

h Power supply jack

Insert the plug on the power cord into the power supply jack.

i Feed dog position switch

Use the feed dog position switch to lower the feed dogs.

j Presser foot pressure dial

Use the presser foot pressure dial to adjust the amount of pressure that the presser foot applies.

k Presser foot lever

Raise and lower the presser foot lever to raise and lower the presser foot.

14

z Refer to pages 13 through 16 while you are

learning to use your machine.

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CAUTION

Note

Operation buttons

The operation buttons help you to easily perform various basic sewing machine operations.

a “Start/Stop” button

Press the “Start/Stop” button to start or stop sewing. The machine sews at a slow speed at the beginning of sewing while the button is pressed. When sewing is stopped, the needle is lowered in the fabric. For details, refer to “Starting to sew” (page 53). The button changes color according to the machine’s operation mode.

Green: The machine is ready to sew or is

sewing.

Red: The machine can not sew.

Orange: The machine is winding the bobbin

thread, or the bobbin winder shaft is moved to the right side.

b “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button

Press the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button to sew reverse stitches or reinforcement stitches. Reverse stitches are sewn by keeping the button pressed down to sew in the opposite direction. Reinforcement stitches are sewn by sewing 3 to 5 stitches on top of each other. For details, refer to “Securing the stitching” (page 55).

c “Needle Position” button

Press the “Needle Position” button to raise or lower the needle. Pressing the button twice sews one stitch.

z Do not press (“Thread Cutter” button)

if there is no fabric under the presser foot or while the machine is sewing, otherwise damage to the machine may occur.

z When cutting thread thicker than #30, nylon

thread or other special threads, use the thread cutter on the side of the machine. For details, refer to “Using the thread cutter” (page 57).

d “Thread Cutter” button

Press the “Thread Cutter” button after sewing is stopped to cut both the upper and the bobbin threads. For details, refer to “Cutting the thread” (page 56).

e Sewing speed controller

Slide the sewing speed controller to adjust the sewing speed.

● Do not press (“Thread Cutter” button) after the threads have already been cut, otherwise the needle may break, the threads may become tangled or damage to the machine may occur.

Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions 15

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

a

c

b

f

gh

d

e

i

Operation panel

The front operation panel has an LCD (liquid crystal display) and operation keys.

a LCD (liquid crystal display) (touch panel)

Selected pattern settings and messages are displayed. Touch the keys displayed on the LCD to perform operations. For details, refer to “LCD (Liquid Crystal Display) Operation” (page 20).

b Back key

Press to return to the previous screen.

c Previous page key

Displays the previous screen when there are items that are not displayed on the LCD.

d Next page key

Displays the next screen when there are items that are not displayed on the LCD.

e Memory key

Press to enter character embroidery, combined stitch patterns, My Custom Stitch patterns, etc into the sewing machine memory.

f Utility stitch key

Press this key to select a utility stitch or decorative stitch or to design a stitch pattern using the My Custom Stitch function.

g Embroidery key

Press this key to sew embroidery.

h Settings key

Press to set the needle stop position, the buzzer sound, and more.

i Sewing machine help key

Press to get help on using the sewing machine. Displays simple explanations of setting upper thread / bobbin winding / setting bobbin thread / needle replacement / embroidery unit attachment / embroidery frame attachment / embroidery foot attachment / presser foot replacement.

16

1 GETTING READY

The various preparations required before starting to sew are described in this chapter.

Turning the Machine On/Off ..................................................................................18

Power supply precautions .................................................................................. 18

Turning on the machine ..................................................................................... 19

Turning off the machine .....................................................................................19

LCD (Liquid Crystal Display) Operation..................................................................20

Viewing the LCD ................................................................................................20

Changing the machine settings...........................................................................21

Checking machine operating procedures ........................................................... 23

Winding/Installing the Bobbin.................................................................................25

Bobbin precautions ............................................................................................ 25

Winding the bobbin ...........................................................................................25

Installing the bobbin ..........................................................................................29

Upper Threading ..................................................................................................... 31

About the spool of thread .................................................................................. 31

Threading the upper thread................................................................................32

Threading the needle..........................................................................................34

Threading the needle manually (without using the needle threader)..................35

Using the twin needle ........................................................................................36

Pulling up the bobbin thread..............................................................................39

Replacing the Needle ..............................................................................................40

Needle precautions ............................................................................................ 40

Needle types and their uses................................................................................41

Checking the needle........................................................................................... 42

Replacing the needle ..........................................................................................42

Replacing the Presser Foot ......................................................................................44

Presser foot precautions ..................................................................................... 44

Replacing the presser foot .................................................................................. 44

Removing and attaching the presser foot holder ................................................46

Sewing Cylindrical Pieces........................................................................................47

Free-arm sewing.................................................................................................47

GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

—

WARNING

CAUTION

Turning the Machine On/Off

This section explains how to turn the sewing machine on and off.

Power supply precautions

Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the power supply.

● Use only regular household electricity for the power source. Using other power sources may result in fire, electric shock, or damage to the machine.

● Make sure that the plugs on the power cord are firmly inserted into the electrical outlet and the power supply jack on the machine.

● Do not insert the plug on the power cord into an electrical outlet that is in poor condition.

● Turn off the main power and remove the plug in the following circumstances:

• When you are away from the machine

• After using the machine

• When the power fails during use

• When the machine does not operate correctly due to a bad connection or a disconnection

• During electrical storms

● Use only the power cord included with this machine.

● Do not use extension cords or multi-plug adapters with many other appliances plugged in to

them. Fire or electric shock may result.

● Do not touch the plug with wet hands. Electric shock may result.

● When unplugging the machine, always turn off the main power first. Always grasp the plug to

remove it from the outlet. Pulling on the cord may damage the cord, or lead to fire or electric shock.

● Do not allow the power cord to be cut, damaged, modified, forcefully bent, pulled, twisted, or bundled. Do not place heavy objects on the cord. Do not subject the cord to heat. These things may damage the cord and cause fire or electric shock. If the cord or plug is damaged, take the machine to your authorized dealer for repairs before continuing use.

● Unplug the power cord if the machine is not to be used for a long period of time. Otherwise a fire may result.

18

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

—

Memo

Note

1

Turning on the machine

Prepare the included power cord.

Make sure that the sewing machine is turned

a

off (the main power switch is set to “ ”), and then plug the power cord into the power supply jack on the right side of the machine.

Insert the plug of the power cord into a

b

household electrical outlet.

a Power supply jack

Press the right side of the main power switch

c

on the right side of the machine to turn the machine on (set it to “I”).

Turning off the machine

When you are finished using the sewing machine, turn it off. In addition, before transporting the sewing machine to another location, be sure to turn it off.

Make sure that the machine is not sewing.

a

Press the left side of the main power switch on

b

the right side of the machine to turn the machine off (set it to “ ”).

X The sewing lamps and the LCD go off when

the machine is turned off.

Unplug the power cord from the electrical

c

outlet.

Grasp the plug when unplugging the power cord.

Unplug the power cord from the power supply

d

jack.

1

X The light, LCD and (“Start/Stop” button)

light up when the machine is turned on.

z When the machine is turned on, the needle

and the feed dogs will make sound when they move; this is not a malfunction.

z If a power outage occurs while the sewing

machine is being operated, turn off the sewing machine and unplug the power cord. When restarting the sewing machine, follow the necessary procedure to correctly operate the machine.

(For U.S.A. only)

z This appliance has a polarized plug (one

blade wider than the other). To reduce the risk of electrical shock, this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way.

Turning the Machine On/Off 19

GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

—

Memo

a

b

c

d

e

f

j h i

g

klm

LCD (Liquid Crystal Display) Operation

Selected stitch, pattern settings and messages are displayed on the LCD (liquid crystal display) on the front of the sewing machine.

Viewing the LCD

When the power is turned on, the LCD comes on, and the following screen is displayed.

The screen is changed using the keys below the screen, and operations performed by directly touching the icons

on the LCD screen.

■ Utility stitch selection screen

a Selected stitch b Presser foot to be used c Stitches d Stitch settings and twin needle sewing e Stitch width (mm) f Stitch length (mm) g Thread tension h Number of the selected stitch

i Number of stitches contained in the selected stitch

type

j Horizontal mirror image k Automatic thread cutting l Automatic reverse/reinforcement m Single/twin needle sewing and needle stop position

■ Stitch type selection screen

Press (Utility stitch key) to display the screen for selecting the stitch type. The details are explained in “Selecting stitching” (page 51).

z A different screen is displayed when the embroidery unit is attached. z Refer to “Error messages” (page 201) for messages displayed on the LCD. z Depending on the model of sewing machine, an animation may be displayed when the power is turned

on. When an animation is displayed, the screen above will be displayed if you touch the LCD with your finger.

20

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

—

Changing the machine settings

Various sewing machine operations and sewing settings can be changed. The stitch or machine attributes that can be set are listed below.

Attribute Icon Details Settings

Needle position

Stitch width control

Vertical pattern adjustment

Horizontal pattern adjustment

Thread color display

Display unit

Embroidery tension

Max embroide ry speed

Buzzer

Opening screen

Initial needle position

Language

Specifies where the needle is positioned when the sewing machine is stopped.

Allows the stitch width to be adjusted with the sewing speed controller.

Adjusts the up and down position of the pattern (page 136).

Adjusts the left and right position of the pattern (page 136).

Changes the thread color display on the embroidery screen.

(When “Thread No. #123” is selected)

Selects the measurement units that are displayed (only for embroidering).

Adjusts the thread tension for embroidering (only for embroidering).

Specifies the maximum embroidering speed.

Specifies whether or not a beep is sounded with each operation (page 205).

Sets whether or not to display the opening screen when the power is turned on. (There are models where this cannot be changed.)

Select the straight stitch that is automatically selected when the machine is turned on.

Allows the language used in the screens to be changed.

Down Up

-9 to +9

Thread color/Time to embroider/ Needle count/Thread number (#123)

Embroidery/Country/Madeira poly/ Madeira rayon/Sulky/Robison anton

mm/INCH

-8 to +8

English/French/Spanish/Portuguese/ Korean/others

Memo Depending on the model, the following languages may also be available.

German/Italian/Dutch/Japanese/ Danish/Norwegian/Finnish/ Swedish/Russian/Thai

1

LCD brightness

Stitch counter

Product number

Program version

NO.:

VERSION

Adjusts the brightness of the LCD.

Display the service count and the total number of embroidery stitches. The service count is a reminder to take your machine in for regular servicing. (Contact your authorized dealer for details.)

The “NO.” is the number for the sewing and embroidery machine.

: Display the program version.

LCD (Liquid Crystal Display) Operation 21

Lighter Darker

GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

—

Turn on the sewing machine.

a

X The LCD comes on.

Press (Settings key) on the operation

b

panel.

X The settings screen appears.

Press the item to be set.

c

Switch screens using (Previous page key) and (Next page key).

• The items shown in reverse highlighting are the settings at the time of purchase.

 Example: Changing the needle stop position

22

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

—

Note

e

h

dcb

a

f

g

When settings are complete, press

d

(Back key).

Checking machine operating procedures

X The initial screen appears again.

z Settings that are changed are not lost when

the power is turned off.

Displays simple explanations of setting upper thread / bobbin winding / setting bobbin thread / needle replacement / embroidery unit attachment / embroidery frame attachment / embroidery foot attachment / presser foot replacement on the LCD.

Turn on the sewing machine.

a

X The LCD comes on.

Press (Sewing machine help key) on the

b

operation panel.

1

X The sewing machine help screen appears.

Press the item to be displayed.

c

a Upper threading b Bobbin winding c Bobbin installation d Needle replacement e Embroidery unit attachment f Embroidery frame attachment g Embroidery foot attachment h Presser foot replacement

X The first screen describing the procedure for

the selected topic appears.

• Pressing (Back key), returns you to the item selection screen.

LCD (Liquid Crystal Display) Operation 23

GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

—

Note

Press (Next page key) to switch to the

d

next page.

If you press (Previous page key), you return to the previous page.

 Example: Upper threading

X The initial stitch screen appears again.

z For details on each topic, refer to the

corresponding page in this Operation Manual.

After you finish looking, press (Back

e

key) two times.

24

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

—

CAUTION

Memo

11.5 mm

Actual size

This model

Other model

(7/16 inch)

Winding/Installing the Bobbin

This section describes how to wind the thread onto the bobbin, and then insert the bobbin thread.

Bobbin precautions

Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the bobbin.

● Only use the Bobbin (part code: SA156, SFB: XA5539-151) designed specifically for this sewing machine. Use of any other bobbin may result in injuries or damage to the machine.

● The included bobbin was designed specifically for this sewing machine. If bobbins from other models are used, the machine will not operate correctly. Use only the included bobbin or bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156, SFB: XA5539-151).

Winding the bobbin

Wind the thread around the bobbin to prepare the bobbin thread.

1

a Bobbin winder

z The order that the machine should be threaded for winding the bobbin is indicated by a broken line on

the sewing machine. Be sure to thread the machine as indicated.

Winding/Installing the Bobbin 25

GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

—

CAUTION

Turn on the sewing machine.

a

Open the top cover.

b

Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder shaft so

c

that the spring on the shaft fits into the notch in the bobbin

.

Press down on the bobbin until it snaps into place.

Place the spool of thread for the bobbin onto

f

the spool pin.

Slide the spool onto the pin so that the spool is horizontal and the thread unwinds to the front at the bottom.

• If the spool is not positioned so that the thread unwinds correctly, the thread may become tangled around the spool pin.

Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin.

g

Slide the spool cap as far as possible to the right, as shown, with the rounded side on the left.

a Notch b Bobbin winder shaft spring

Slide the bobbin winder in the direction of the

d

arrow until it snaps into place.

• (“Start/Stop” button) lights up in orange.

Remove the spool cap that is inserted onto the

e

spool pin.

● If the spool or the spool cap is not positioned correctly, the thread may become tangled around the spool pin and the needle may break.

● Three spool cap sizes are available (large, medium and small), allowing you to choose a spool cap that best fits the size of spool being used. If the spool cap is too small for the spool being used, the thread may catch on the slit in the spool or the machine may be damaged.

●

a Spool pin b Spool cap

26

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

—

Memo

Note

a

c

b

1

While holding the thread near the spool with

h

your right hand, as shown, pull the thread with

z When sewing with fine, cross-wound thread,

use the small spool cap, and leave a small space between the cap and the spool.

your left hand, and then pass the thread behind the thread guide cover and to the front.

1

a Spool cap (small) b Spool (cross-wound thread) c Space

z When using thread that winds off quickly,

such as transparent nylon thread or metallic thread, place the spool net over the spool before placing the spool of thread onto the spool pin. If the spool net is too long, fold it to fit the size of the spool.

z When the spool net is used, the tension of

the upper thread will slightly increase. Be sure to check the thread tension. For details, refer to “Adjusting the thread tension” (page

59).

a Thread guide cover

Pass the thread under the thread guide plate,

i

and then pull it to the right.

a Thread guide plate

Pass the thread under the hook on the thread

j

guide, and then wind it counterclockwise under the pretension disk.

1

2

a Spool net b Spool c Spool cap d Spool pin

3

a Thread guide b Pretension disk c Pull it in as far as possible

z Make sure that the thread passes under the

pretension disk.

Winding/Installing the Bobbin 27

GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

—

Note

CAUTION

Memo

While holding the thread with your left hand,

k

wind the thread that was pulled out clockwise around the bobbin five or six times with your right hand.

z Make sure that the thread between the spool

and the bobbin is pulled tight.

z

Be sure to wind the thread clockwise around the bobbin, otherwise the thread will become wrapped around the bobbin winder shaft.

Pass the end of the thread through the guide

l

slit in the bobbin winder seat, and then pull the thread to the right to cut it.

Press (“Start/Stop” button) once to start

n

winding the bobbin.

When the foot controller is plugged in, press down on the foot controller.

a “Start/Stop” button

• When the bobbin winding becomes slow,

press (“Start/Stop” button) once to stop

the machine.

When the foot controller is plugged in,

remove your foot from the foot controller.

● When the bobbin winding becomes slow, stop the machine, otherwise the sewing machine may be damaged.

1

a Guide slit in bobbin winder seat

(with built-in cutter)

X The thread is cut to a suitable length.

● Be sure to cut the thread as described. If the bobbin is wound without cutting the thread using the cutter built into the slit in the bobbin winder seat, the thread may become tangled in the bobbin and the needle may bend or break when the bobbin thread starts to run out.

Slide the sewing speed controller to the right

m

to increase the bobbin winding speed and slide to left to decrease.

Use scissors to cut the end of the thread

o

wound around the bobbin.

Slide the bobbin winder shaft to the left, and

p

then remove the bobbin from the shaft.

z If the bobbin winder shaft is set to the right

side, the needle will not move. (Sewing is impossible.)

a Speed controller

28

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

—

Memo

CAUTION

Actual size

11.5 mm

This model Other model

(7/16 inch)

Remove the spool for the bobbin thread from

q

the spool pin, and then close the top cover.

z When the sewing machine is started or the

handwheel is turned after winding the bobbin, the machine will make a clicking sound; this is not a malfunction.

Installing the bobbin

Install the bobbin wound with thread.

● Use a bobbin that has been correctly wound with thread, otherwise the needle may break or the thread tension will be incorrect.

Press (“Needle Position” button) once or

a

twice to raise the needle, and then raise the presser foot lever.

Turn off the sewing machine.

b

Slide the bobbin cover latch to the right.

c

a Bobbin cover b Latch

X The bobbin cover opens.

Remove the bobbin cover.

d

Hold the bobbin with your right hand and hold

e

the end of the thread with your left.

1

The bobbin was designed specifically for

●

this sewing machine. If bobbins from other models are used, the machine will not operate correctly. Use only the included bobbin or bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156, SFB (XA5539-151)).

• Be careful not to drop the bobbin.

Insert the bobbin with your right hand so that

f

the end of the thread is on the left, and then, after pulling the thread firmly around the tab with your left hand as shown, lightly pull the thread to guide it through the slit.

1

a Tab

Winding/Installing the Bobbin 29

GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

—

CAUTION

Memo

Note

Memo

1

● Be sure to install the bobbin so that the thread unwinds in the correct direction, otherwise the thread may break or the thread tension will be incorrect.

z The order that the bobbin thread should be

passed through the bobbin case is indicated by marks around the bobbin case. Be sure to thread the machine as indicated.

While lightly holding down bobbin with your

g

right hand as shown, guide the thread through the slit (1 and 2).

• At this time, check that the bobbin easily rotates counterclockwise.

Then, pull the thread toward you to cut it with the cutter (3).

z Make sure that the thread is correctly

inserted through the tension-adjusting spring of the bobbin case. If it is not inserted correctly, reinsert the thread.

a Tension-adjusting spring

Reattach the bobbin cover.

h

Insert the tab in the lower-left corner of the bobbin cover, and then lightly press down on the right side.

a Slit b Cutter (Cut the thread with the cutter.)

30

X The bobbin threading is finished.

Next, thread the upper thread. Continue with the procedure in “Upper Threading” (page 31).

z You can begin sewing without pulling up the

bobbin thread. If you wish to pull up the bobbin thread before starting to sew, pull up the thread according to the procedure in “Pulling up the bobbin thread” (page 39).

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

—

CAUTION

Memo

CAUTION

Upper Threading

This section describes how to position the spool for the upper thread, and then thread the needle.

1

● When threading the upper thread, carefully follow the instructions. If the upper threading is not correct, the thread may become tangled and the needle may bend or break.

z The order that the machine should be

threaded is indicated by a solid line on the sewing machine. Be sure to thread the machine as indicated.

About the spool of thread

Information about the spools of thread is described below.

● Three spool cap sizes are available (large, medium and small), allowing you to choose a spool cap that best fits the size of spool being used. If the spool cap is too small for the spool being used, the thread may catch on the slit in the spool and the needle may break.

Upper Threading 31

GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

—

Note

CAUTION

1

Open the top cover.

Threading the upper thread

d

Set the spool of thread on the spool pin, and then thread the machine.

Turn on the sewing machine.

a

Remove the spool cap that is inserted onto the

e

spool pin.

Raise the presser foot lever to raise the presser

b

foot.

a Spool pin b Spool cap

a Presser foot lever

z If the presser foot is not raised, the sewing

machine cannot be threaded.

Press (“Needle Position” button) once or

c

twice to raise the needle.

a “Needle Position” button

X The needle is correctly raised when the mark on

the handwheel is at the top, as shown below. Check the handwheel and, if this mark is not at this position, press (

) until it is.

button

“Needle Position”

Place the spool of thread onto the spool pin.

f

Slide the spool onto the pin so that the spool is horizontal and the thread unwinds to the front at the bottom.

● If the spool or the spool cap is not positioned correctly, the thread may become tangled around the spool pin and the needle may break.

Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin.

g

Slide the spool cap as far as possible to the right, as shown, with the rounded side on the left.

a Mark on handwheel

32

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

—

Note

While holding the thread lightly with your

h

right hand, pull the thread with your left hand, and then pass the thread behind the thread guide cover and to the front.

a Thread guide cover

Pass the thread under the thread guide plate,

i

and then pull it up.

z If the presser foot has been lowered and the

shutter is closed, the machine cannot be threaded. Be sure to raise the presser foot and open the shutter before threading the machine. In addition, before removing the upper thread, be sure to raise the presser foot and open the shutter.

z This machine is equipped with a window

that allows you to check the position of the take-up lever. Look through this window and check that the thread is correctly fed through the take-up lever.

1

a Thread guide plate

While using your right hand to lightly hold the

j

thread passed under the thread guide plate, pass the thread through the thread path in the order shown below.

a Shutter

Pass the thread behind the needle bar thread

k

guide.

The thread can easily be passed behind the needle bar thread guide by holding the thread in your left hand, then feeding the thread with your right hand, as shown.

1

a Needle bar thread guide

Next, use the needle threader to thread the needle. Continue with the procedure in “Threading the needle” (page 34).

Upper Threading 33

GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

—

Memo

Note

1

2

1

Threading the needle

z If the thread is pulled through and cannot be

This section describes how to thread the needle.

z

The needle threader can be used with sewing machine needles 75/11 through 100/16.

z The needle threader cannot be used with the

wing needle or the twin needle.

z If the needle threader cannot be used, refer

to “Threading the needle manually (without using the needle threader)” (page 35).

Pull the end of the thread, which has been

a

passed through the needle bar thread guide, to the left, then pass the thread through the notch of the thread guide 1, and then firmly pull the thread from the front and insert it into the slit of the thread guide disk marked "7" all the way

2. Make sure that the thread passes the notch of the thread guide.

cut correctly, lower the presser foot so that the thread is held in place before cutting the thread. If this operation is performed, skip

c.

step

z When using thread that quickly winds off the

spool, such as metallic thread, it may be difficult to thread the needle if the thread is cut. Therefore, instead of using the thread cutter, pull out about 80 mm (approx. 3 inches) of thread after passing it through the thread guide disks (marked “7”).

a 80 mm (3 inches) or more

a Notch of the thread guide b Thread guide disk

Cut the thread with the thread cutter on the

b

left side of the machine.

a Thread cutter

Lower the presser foot lever to lower the

c

presser foot.

1

a Presser foot lever

Lower the needle threader lever on the left

d

side of the machine until it clicks, and then slowly return the lever to its original position.

a Needle threader lever

X The thread is passed through the eye of the

needle.

34

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Note

CAUTION

Note

CAUTION

z If the needle was not completely threaded,

but a loop in the thread was formed in the eye of the needle, carefully pull the loop through the eye of the needle to pull out the end of the thread.

● When pulling out the thread, do not pull it with extreme force, otherwise the needle may break or bend.

Raise the presser foot lever, pass the end of the

e

thread through the presser foot, and then pull out about 5 cm (2 inches) of thread toward the rear of the machine.

Threading the needle manually (

without using the needle threader

When using specialty thread, such as transparent nylon thread or metallic thread, a wing needle or a twin needle which cannot be used with the needle threader, thread the needle as described below.

Thread the machine to the needle bar thread

a

guide.

• For details, refer to “Upper Threading” (page

31).

Lower the presser foot lever.

b

1

a Pressor foot lever

Pass the thread through the eye of the needle

c

from front to back.

)

1

a 5 cm (2 inches)

X The upper threading is finished.

z If the needle is not raised, the needle

Now that the upper threading and the lower threading are finished, you are ready to begin sewing.

threader cannot thread the needle. Be sure to press (“Needle Position” button) to raise the needle before using the needle threader.

● Do not touch the (“Start/Stop” button), (“Needle Position” button) or (“Reverse/Reinforcement stitch” button). If one of the buttons is accidentally pressed, the machine will begin sewing and your finger may be pricked with the needle or the needle may break.

Raise the presser foot lever, pass the end of the

d

thread through the presser foot, and then pull out about 5 cm (2 inches) of thread toward the rear of the machine.

Upper Threading 35

GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

—

CAUTION

Insert the extra spool pin onto the bobbin

d

Using the twin needle

winder shaft.

Insert the extra spool pin so that it is

With the twin needle, you can sew two parallel lines

perpendicular to the bobbin winder shaft.

of the same stitch with two different threads. Both upper threads should have the same thickness and quality. Be sure to use the twin needle, the extra spool pin and the spool cap. For details on the stitches that can be sewn with the twin needle, refer to “Stitch Setting Chart” (page 70).

a Bobbin winder shaft

Swing down the spool pin so that it is

e

horizontal.

● Only use the twin needle (part code: X59296-121). Use of any other needle may bend the needle or damage the machine.

● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.

Install the twin needle.

a

• For details on installing a needle, refer to “Replacing the needle” (page 42).

Place the upper thread spool for the needle on

f

the right side onto the extra spool pin, and then secure it with the spool cap.

The thread should unroll from the top front of the spool.

Thread the upper thread for the left needle

b

eye.

• For details, refer to steps “Threading the upper thread” (page 32).

Manually thread the left needle with the upper

c

thread.

Pass the thread through the eye of the needle from the front.

• The needle threader cannot be used with the twin needle. If the needle threader is used with the twin needle, the sewing machine may be damaged.

36

a through k of

a Spool cap b Spool

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

—

CAUTION

Note

CAUTION

Thread the upper thread for the right side in the

g

same way that the upper thread for the left side was threaded.

a Thread guide cover

• For details, refer to steps h through j of “Threading the upper thread” (page 33).

Without passing the thread through the needle

h

bar thread guide, manually thread the right needle.

Pass the thread through the eye of the needle from the front.

Turn on the sewing machine and select a stitch.

j

• For stitch selection see “Selecting stitching” (page 51).

• See “Stitch Setting Chart” (page 70) for stitches that use a twin needle.

z When using the pintuck foot (sold

separately) to sew straight pintucks with the twin needle, select the stitch with the center needle position.

● When using the twin needle, be sure to select an appropriate stitch, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.

● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.

1

• The needle threader cannot be used with the twin needle. If the needle threader is used with the twin needle, the sewing machine may be damaged.

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

i

• For details on changing the presser foot, refer to “Replacing the Presser Foot” (page 44).

● When using the twin needle, be sure to attach zigzag foot “J”. If bunched stitches occur, use presser foot “N” or attach stabilizer material.

Press .

k

X The screen for setting the twin needle

appears.

Upper Threading 37

GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

—

CAUTION

Press .

l

● When changing the sewing direction, press (“Needle Position” button) to raise the needle from the fabric, and then raise the presser foot lever and turn the fabric. Otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.

● Do not try turning the fabric with the

X displays in reverse highlight.

• If pressed again, it returns to .

The twin needle can now be used.

Press (Back key).

m

X The initial screen appears again, and

appears.

twin needle left down in the fabric, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.

● When using the twin needle, be sure to select the twin needle setting, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.

Start sewing.

n

• For details on starting to sew, refer to “Starting to sew” (page 53).

X Two lines of stitching are sewn parallel to

each other.

38

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

—

Pull out about 10 cm (4 inches) of the bobbin

e

Pulling up the bobbin thread

When making gathers or before free-motion quilting, first pull up the bobbin thread as described below.

Insert the bobbin into the bobbin case.

a

• Refer to steps bobbin” (page 29).

Pass the bobbin thread through the slot.

b

Do not cut the thread with the cutter.

While lightly holding the upper thread with

c

your left hand with the needle in the upposition, press (“Needle Position” button) twice to lower and raise the needle.

c through g of “Installing the

thread under the presser foot toward the rear of the machine.

Reattach the bobbin cover.

f

Insert the tab in the lower-left corner of the bobbin cover, and then lightly press down on the right side.

1

a “Needle Position” button

X The bobbin thread is looped around the

upper thread and can be pulled up.

Carefully pull the upper thread upward to pull

d

out the end of the bobbin thread.

Upper Threading 39

GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

—

CAUTION

Replacing the Needle

This section describes how to replace the needle.

Needle precautions

Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the handling of the needle. Failure to observe these precautions is extremely dangerous, for example, if the needle breaks and fragments are dispersed. Be sure to read and carefully follow the instructions below.

● Only use home sewing machine needles. Use of any other needle may bend the needle or damage the machine.

● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.

40

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

—

Note

CAUTION

Needle types and their uses

The sewing machine needle that should be used depends on the fabric and thread thickness. Refer to the following table when choosing the thread and needle appropriate for the fabric that you wish to sew.

Fabric Type/Application

Medium weight

fabrics

Thin fabrics

Thick fabrics

Stretch fabrics

Easily frayed fabrics

For top-stitching

Type Size

Broadcloth Cotton thread

Taffeta Synthetic thread

Flannel, Gabardine Silk thread 50

Lawn Cotton thread

Georgette Synthetic thread

Challis, Satin Silk thread 50

Denim Cotton thread

Corduroy Synthetic thread

Tweed Silk thread

Jersey

Tricot

Thread for knits 50–60

Cotton thread

Silk thread 50

Synthetic thread 30 100/16

Silk thread 50–60 90/11–90/14

Thread

Size of Needle

60–90

75/11–90/14

60–90

65/9–75/11

30 100/16

50

90/14–100/16

50–60

Ball point needle

75/11–90/14

(golden colored)

50–90

65/9–90/14Synthetic thread

1

z Never use a thread of weight 20 or lower. It

may cause malfunctions.

■ Thread and needle number

The lower the thread number is, the larger the

thread, and the larger the needle number, the larger the needle.

■ Ball point needle (gold colored)

To avoid skipped stitches use ball point needles

with stretch fabrics.

■ Transparent nylon thread

Use a 90/14 to 100/16 needle, regardless of the

fabric or thread.

■ Embroidery needles

Use a 75/11 home sewing machine needle. When embroidering on thick fabrics such as denim, use

a 90/14 or 100/16 home sewing machine needle.

● The appropriate fabric, thread and needle combinations are shown in the table above. If the combination of the fabric, thread and needle is not correct, particularly when sewing thick fabrics (such as denim) with thin needles (such as 65/9 to 75/11), the needle may bend or break. In addition, the stitching may be uneven or puckered or there may be skipped stitches.

Replacing the Needle 41

GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

—

CAUTION

Note

Checking the needle

Sewing with a bent needle is extremely dangerous since the needle may break while the machine is being operated. Before using the needle, place the flat side of the needle on a flat surface and check that the distance between the needle and the flat surface is even.

a Flat side b Needle type marking

● If the distance between the needle and the flat surface is not even, the needle is bent. Do not use a bent needle.

Replacing the needle

Replace the needle as described below. Use the screwdriver and a needle that has been determined to be straight according to the instructions in “Checking the needle”.

Press (“Needle Position” button) once or

a

twice to raise the needle.

a “Needle Position” button

Turn off the sewing machine.

b

● Before replacing the needle, be sure to turn off the sewing machine, otherwise injuries may occur if (“Start/Stop” button) is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.

a Flat surface

42

Place fabric or paper under the presser foot to

c

cover the hole in the needle plate.

z Before replacing the needle, cover the hole

in the needle plate with fabric or paper to prevent the needle from falling into the machine.

Lower the presser foot lever.

d

1

a Presser foot lever

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

—

CAUTION

2

1

Hold the needle with your left hand, and then

e

use a screwdriver to turn the needle clamp screw toward you (counterclockwise) to remove the needle.

a Screwdriver b Needle clamp screw

• Do not apply a strong force when loosening or tightening the needle clamp screw, otherwise certain parts of the sewing machine may be damaged.

With the flat side of the needle toward the rear

f

of the machine, insert the needle until it touches the needle stopper.

While holding the needle with your left hand,

g

use the screwdriver to tighten the needle clamp screw.

Install the twin needle in the same way.

● Be sure to insert the needle until it touches the needle stopper and securely tighten the needle clamp screw with the screwdriver, otherwise the needle may break or damage may result.

1

a Needle stopper

Replacing the Needle 43

GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

—

CAUTION

Replacing the Presser Foot

This section describes how to replace the presser foot.

Presser foot precautions

Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the presser feet.

● Use the presser foot appropriate for the type of stitch that you wish to sew, otherwise the needle may hit the presser foot, causing the needle to bend or break.

● Only use presser feet designed specifically for this sewing machine. Use of any other presser foot may result in injuries or damage to the machine.

Raise the presser foot lever.

Replacing the presser foot

Replace the presser foot as described below.

Press (“Needle Position” button) once or

a

twice to raise the needle.

c

a “Needle Position” button

Turn off the sewing machine.

b

● Before replacing the presser foot, be sure to turn off the sewing machine, otherwise injuries may occur if (“Start/Stop” button) is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.

a Presser foot lever

X The presser foot is raised.

Press the black button at the back of the

d

presser foot holder.

a Black button b Presser foot holder

X The presser foot holder releases the presser

foot.

44

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

—

Note

1

2

3

4

J

Place a different presser foot below the holder

e

so that the presser foot pin is aligned with the notch in the holder.

Position the presser foot so the letter indicating the presser foot type (A, G, I, J, M, N or R) is positioned to be read.

a Presser foot holder b Notch c Pin d Presser foot type

Slowly lower the presser foot lever so that the

f

presser foot pin snaps into the notch in the presser foot holder.

Raise the presser foot lever to check that the

g

presser foot is securely attached.

z When a stitch is selected, the icon for the

presser foot that should be used appears in the screen. Check that the correct presser foot is attached before starting to sew. If the wrong presser foot is installed, turn off the sewing machine, attach the correct presser foot, and then select the desired stitch again.

1

a

b

c

a Presser foot lever b Presser foot holder c Notch d Pin

X The presser foot is attached.

d

Buttonhole foot “A”

Overcasting foot “G”

Zigzag foot “J”

Button fitting foot “M”

Monogramming foot “N”

Blind stitch foot “R”

Side cutter “S”

z For details on the presser foot that should be

used with the selected stitch, refer to “Stitch Setting Chart” (page 70).

Replacing the Presser Foot 45

GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

—

Note

Hold the presser foot holder in place with your

c

Removing and attaching the presser foot holder

right hand, and then tighten the screw using the screwdriver in your left hand.

Remove the presser foot holder when cleaning the sewing machine or when installing a presser foot that does not use the presser foot holder, such as the embroidery foot and optional quilting foot. Use the screwdriver to remove the presser foot holder.

a Screwdriver

1

Remove the presser foot.

a

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 44).

Use the screwdriver to loosen the presser foot

b

holder screw.

z If the presser foot holder is not correctly

installed, the thread tension will be incorrect.

b

a

c

a Screwdriver b Presser foot holder c Presser foot holder screw

■ Attaching the presser foot holder

Raise the presser foot lever.

a

Align the presser foot holder with the lower-

b

left side of the presser bar.

46

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

—

Sewing Cylindrical Pieces

Free-arm sewing makes sewing cylindrical pieces easy.

Free-arm sewing

Removing the flat bed attachment allows for free-arm sewing, making it easier to sew cylindrical pieces such as sleeve cuffs and pant legs.

Pull the flat bed attachment off to the left.

a

X With the flat bed attachment removed, free-

arm sewing is possible.

Slide the part that you wish to sew onto the

b

arm, and then sew from the top.

1

When you are finished with free-arm sewing,

c

install the flat bed attachment back in its original position.

Sewing Cylindrical Pieces 47

GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

—

48

2 SEWING BASICS

The necessary preparations for sewing are described in this chapter.

Sewing.....................................................................................................................50

General sewing procedure ................................................................................. 50

Selecting stitching .............................................................................................. 51

Positioning the fabric .........................................................................................52

Starting to sew ...................................................................................................53

Securing the stitching .........................................................................................55

Cutting the thread ..............................................................................................56

Setting the Stitch .....................................................................................................58

Adjusting the stitch width ..................................................................................58

Adjusting the stitch length..................................................................................59

Adjusting the thread tension ..............................................................................59

Useful Functions......................................................................................................61

Automatically sewing reverse/reinforcement stitches ........................................ 61

Automatically cutting the thread........................................................................62

Mirroring stitches...............................................................................................63

Useful Sewing Tips ..................................................................................................64

Trial sewing........................................................................................................64

Changing the sewing direction ...........................................................................64

Sewing curves ....................................................................................................64

Adjusting the presser foot pressure ....................................................................64

Sewing thick fabrics ...........................................................................................65

Sewing thin fabrics .............................................................................................66

Sewing stretch fabrics ........................................................................................66

Sewing leathers or vinyl fabrics.......................................................................... 66

Sewing an even seam allowance ........................................................................66

Hands-free raising and lowering of the presser foot...........................................67

Sewing hook-and-loop fastener ..........................................................................68

SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

CAUTION

Sewing

Basic sewing operations are described below. Before operating the sewing machine, read the following precautions.

● While the machine is in operation, pay special attention to the needle location. In addition, keep your hands away from all moving parts such as the needle and handwheel, otherwise injuries may occur.

● Do not pull or push the fabric too hard while sewing, otherwise injuries may occur or the needle may break.

● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.

● Make sure that the needle does not strike basting pins, otherwise the needle may break or

bend.

General sewing procedure

Follow the basic procedures below to sew.

1 Turn on the machine.

Turn on the sewing machine. For details on turning on the machine, refer to “Turning on the machine” (page 19).

2 Select the stitch.

3 Attach the presser foot.

4 Position the fabric.

5 Start sewing.

6 Cut the thread.

↓

Select the stitch appropriate for the area to be sewn. For details on selecting a stitch, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 51).

↓

Attach the presser foot appropriate for the stitch. (Be sure to turn off the machine before replacing the presser foot.) For details on replacing the presser foot, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 44).

↓

Place the area to be sewn under the presser foot. Be sure that the fabric pieces are sewn in the correct order and that the right and wrong sides of the fabric are aligned correctly. For details on positioning the fabric, refer to “Positioning the fabric” (page 52).

↓

Start sewing. For details on starting to sew, refer to “Starting to sew” (page 53).

↓

Cut the thread at the end of sewing. For details on cutting the thread, refer to “Cutting the thread” (page 56).

50

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

CAUTION

Memo

Note

Selecting stitching

Stitches are selected using LCD operations. There are 71 utility stitches. Right after turning the power on, the straight stitch (left needle position) is selected. The machine can also be set to select the straight stitch (center needle position). For details on changing the setting, refer to page 21.

Determine the stitch to be used, and get the

a

matching presser foot ready.

• Refer to “Stitch Setting Chart” (page 70).

Attach the presser foot.

b

The machine comes with zigzag foot “J” attached.

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 44).

● Use the presser foot appropriate for the stitch. If the wrong presser foot is used, the needle may hit the presser foot and break or bend.

 Example:

X The stitch is selected, and the stitch number

and settings are displayed.

If necessary, specify the setting for automatic

e

reverse/reinforcement stitching and adjust the stitch length, etc.

11

is selected:

2

Turn on the sewing machine.

c

X The straight stitch (left needle position) is

shown selected in the LCD.

• When an animation is displayed on the screen, touch the screen with your finger.

Select a stitch.

d

(Previous page key) displays the previous screen, and (Next page key) displays the next screen.

z

Uses of stitches and other stitch selections are explained in

z Automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching

and other settings are explained in “Useful Functions” (page 61).

z The procedures for specifying the thread

tension are described in “Adjusting the thread tension” (page 59).

z Procedures for changing the stitch width and

length are described in “Adjusting the stitch width” (page 58) and “Adjusting the stitch length” (page 59).

z When a stitch is selected, the icon for the

presser foot that should be used appears on the screen. For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 44). Check that the correct presser foot is attached before starting to sew. If the wrong presser foot is installed, turn off the sewing machine, attach the correct presser foot, and then select the desired stitch again.

“UTILITY STITCHES” (page 69)

.

Sewing 51

SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

While holding the end of the thread and the

d

Positioning the fabric

fabric with your left hand, turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) with your right

Be sure that the fabric pieces are sewn in the correct order and that the right and wrong sides of the fabric

hand to lower the needle to the starting point of the stitching.

are aligned correctly.

Turn on the sewing machine.

a

Press (“Needle Position” button) once or

b

twice to raise the needle.

a “Needle Position” button

Place the fabric under the presser foot.

c

• If the seam allowance is positioned on the

right side, sewing in a straight line is easier and the extra fabric does not get in the way.

Lower the presser foot lever.

e

1

a Presser foot lever

X The fabric is now positioned to be sewn.

52

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Note

1

Starting to sew

Once you are ready to start sewing, you can start the sewing machine. The sewing speed can be adjusted using either the sewing speed controller or the foot controller.

• If you continue to hold the (“Start/Stop”

z When the foot controller is plugged in,

(“Start/Stop” button) cannot be used to start sewing.

c

■ Using the operation button

Sewing can be started and stopped using the operation button (“Start/Stop” button).

button) pressed immediately after the sewing starts, the machine will sew at a slow speed.

When the end of the stitching is reached, press

(“Start/Stop” button) once.

X The machine stops sewing with the needle

down (in the fabric).

2

Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or

a

right to select the desired sewing speed.

Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to sew at a slower speed, or slide the speed controller to the right to sew at a faster speed.

a Sewing speed controller

Press (“Start/Stop” button) once.

b

When you have finished sewing, press

d

(“Needle Position” button).

X The needle is raised.

Cut the threads.

e

• For details, refer to “Cutting the thread” (page

56).

z This machine will automatically stop when

the bobbin becomes almost empty. When the machine stops, replace the bobbin thread, and then press (“Start/Stop” button) to begin sewing again.

■ Using the foot controller

Sewing can be started and stopped using the foot controller.

a “Start/Stop” button

X The machine starts sewing.

Turn off the sewing machine.

a

When connecting the foot controller, be sure to turn off the sewing machine in order to prevent the machine from accidentally being started.

Sewing 53

SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Memo

CAUTION

1

Slower

Faster

Insert the foot controller plug into its jack on

b

the right side of the sewing machine.

a Foot controller jack

Turn on the sewing machine.

c

Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or

d

right to select the foot controller's maximum sewing speed.

Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to select a lower maximum sewing speed, or slide the speed controller to the right to select a higher maximum sewing speed.

When the end of the stitching is reached,

f

completely release the foot controller.

X The machine stops sewing with the needle

lowered (in the fabric).

When you have finished sewing, press

g

(“Needle Position” button).

X The needle is raised.

Cut the threads.

h

•

For details, refer to

.

56)

z When the foot controller is plugged in,

(“Start/Stop” button) cannot be used to start sewing.

z When sewing is stopped, the needle remains

lowered (in the fabric). The machine can be set so that the needle will stay up when sewing is stopped. For details on setting the machine so that the needle stays up when sewing is stopped, refer to “Changing the machine settings” (page 21).

“Cutting the thread” (page

a Sewing speed controller

• The speed set using the sewing speed

controller will be the foot controller’s maximum sewing speed.

Once you are ready to start sewing, slowly

e

press down on the foot controller.

Pressing down on the foot controller increases the sewing speed; releasing the pressure on the foot controller decreases the sewing speed.

•

Slowly press down on the foot controller. Pressing it down hard starts sewing too quickly.

X The machine starts sewing.

54

●

Do not allow thread or dust to accumulate in the foot controller, otherwise a fire or an electric shock may occur.

● Do not place objects on the foot controller, otherwise damage to the machine or injuries may occur.

● If the machine is not to be used for a long period of time, unplug the foot controller, otherwise a fire or an electric shock may occur.

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

1

Securing the stitching

When sewing with the straight stitch, for example, at the end of an opening or where seams do not overlap, use reverse stitching or reinforcement stitching to secure the end of the thread.

Lower the needle into the fabric at the

a

beginning of the stitching, and then lower the presser foot lever.

a “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button

X While (“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch”

button) is held down, reverse stitches are sewn.

After sewing back to the beginning of the

d

stitching, release (“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button).

X The machine stops sewing.

Press (“Start/Stop” button), or press down

e

on the foot controller.

2

Press (“Start/Stop” button) or press down

b

on the foot controller.

At this time, if (“Start/Stop” button) is held down, the machine sews at a slow speed.

a “Start/Stop” button

• For details, refer to “Starting to sew” (page

53).

X The machine starts sewing.

After sewing 3 to 5 stitches, press

c

(“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button).

Keep (“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button) held down until you reach the beginning of the stitching.

• The machine sews at a slow speed when (“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button) is held down.

X The machine starts sewing in the normal

sewing direction.

When the end of the stitching is reached, press

f

(“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button).

Keep (“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button) held down until 3 to 5 reverse stitches are sewn.

X While (“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch”

button) is held down, reverse stitches are sewn.

Sewing 55

SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Memo

CAUTION

Memo

1

2

5

6

4

3

2

1

2

1

After 3 to 5 reverse stitches have been sewn,

g

release (“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button).

X The machine stops sewing.

Press (“Start/Stop” button), or press down

h

on the foot controller.

At this time, if (“Start/Stop” button) is held down, the machine sews at a slow speed.

X The machine starts sewing in the normal

sewing direction.

After sewing to the end of the stitching, the

i

sewing machine stops.

Press (“Start/Stop” button) or release foot controller.

Cutting the thread

When you have finished sewing, cut the threads.

■ Using (“Thread Cutter” button)

When you wish to finish the stitching, press

a

b

(“Thread Cutter” button) once.

a “Thread Cutter” button

X The threads are cut and the needle is raised.

Raise the presser foot lever, then remove the fabric.

a Beginning of stitching b End of stitching

■ Sewing stitches

Reverse stitches are preset for the

stitches.

When (“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button) is pressed with stitches other than these, reinforcement stitches are used. Reinforcement stitches are 3 to 5 stitches sewn on top of each other in one place.

1 3

and 7

a Presser foot lever

●

Do not press (

) after threads have already been

button

“Thread Cutter”

cut, otherwise the needle may break, the threads may become tangled or damage to the machine may occur.

●

Do not press (

) if there is no fabric under the

button

“Thread Cutter”

presser foot or while the machine is sewing, otherwise damage to the machine may

a Reverse stitching b Reinforcement stitching

z

The sewing machine can be set to automatically sew reverse or reinforcement stitches at the beginning and end of the stitching. For details,

“Automatically sewing reverse/

refer to reinforcement stitches” (page 61)

.

occur.

z

The machine can be set so that the threads will be cut when sewing is finished. For details on setting the machine so that the threads are cut automatically, refer to the thread” (page 62)

“Automatically cutting

.

56

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

■ Using the thread cutter

When sewing with nylon or metallic threads, or other special threads, use the thread cutter on the side of the machine to cut the threads.

When you wish to finish the stitching and the

a

sewing machine is stopped, press (“Needle Position” button) once to raise the needle.

a “Needle Position” button

X The needle is raised.

Raise the presser foot lever.

b

2

a Presser foot lever

Pull the fabric to the left side of the machine,

c

and then pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them.

1

a Thread cutter

Sewing 57

SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Note

Memo

CAUTION

Setting the Stitch

This machine is preset with the default settings for the stitch width, stitch length, and upper thread tension for each stitch. However, you can change any of the settings by pressing in the screen, then following the procedure described in this section.

z

If the thread tension cannot be adjusted as desired, refer to

z Settings for some stitches cannot be changed. For details, refer to “Stitch Setting Chart” (page 70). z Stitch settings return to their defaults if they are changed, when the machine is turned off or a different

stitch is selected before the stitch setting is saved.

“List of symptoms” (page 197)

.

Adjusting the stitch width

The stitch width (zigzag width) can be adjusted to make the stitch wider or narrower.

Each press of makes the zigzag stitch narrower.

Each press of

makes the zigzag stitch wider.

z

Press to return the setting to its default.

z

If the straight stitch (left needle position or triple stretch stitch) was selected, changing the stitch width changes the needle position. Increasing the width moves the needle to the right; reducing the width moves the needle to the left.

z The sewing machine can be set so that the

stitch width can easily be changed with the sewing speed controller. For details, refer to “Satin stitching using the sewing speed controller” (page 111).

z means the setting cannot be adjusted.

● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.

58

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Memo

CAUTION

Adjusting the stitch length

The stitch length can be adjusted to make the stitch longer or shorter.

Each press of

Each press of makes the stitch longer.

makes the stitch shorter.

Adjusting the thread tension

You may need to change the thread tension, depending on the fabric and thread being used.

2

■ Correct thread tension

The upper thread and the bobbin thread should cross near the center of the fabric. Only the upper thread should be visible from the right side of the fabric, and only the bobbin thread should be visible from the wrong side of the fabric.

z Press to return the setting to its

default.

z means the setting cannot be adjusted.

● If the stitches are bunched together, increase the stitch length. Continuing to sew with the stitches bunched together may result in the needle bending or breaking.

a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric c Upper thread d Bobbin thread

Setting the Stitch 59

SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Note

Memo

Note

■ Upper thread is too tight

If the bobbin thread is visible from the right side of the fabric, the upper thread is too tight.

z If the bobbin thread was incorrectly

threaded, the upper thread may be too tight. In this case, refer to “Installing the bobbin” (page 29) and rethread the bobbin thread.

a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric c Upper thread d Bobbin thread e The bobbin thread is visible from the right side of

the fabric.

Each press of makes the thread tension looser.

■ Upper thread is too loose

If the upper thread is visible from the wrong side of the fabric, the upper thread is too loose.

z If the upper thread was incorrectly threaded,

the upper thread may be too loose. In this case, refer to “Upper Threading” (page 31) and rethread the upper thread.

a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric c Upper thread d Bobbin thread e The upper thread is visible from the wrong side of

the fabric.

Each press of makes the thread tension tighter.

60

z Press to return the setting to its

default.

z If the upper thread is not threaded correctly

or the bobbin is not installed correctly, it may not be possible to set the correct thread tension. If the correct thread tension cannot be achieved, rethread the upper thread and insert the bobbin correctly.

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Memo

1

Useful Functions

Functions useful in improving sewing efficiency are described below.

Position the fabric under the presser foot, and

d

Automatically sewing reverse/ reinforcement stitches

The sewing machine can be set to automatically sew reverse or reinforcement stitches at the beginning and end of the stitching. Whether reverse stitches or reinforcement stitches are sewn depends on the stitch that is selected. For details, refer to “Stitch Setting Chart” (page 70).

Turn on the sewing machine.

a

X The LCD comes on.

Select a stitch.

b

• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 51).

then press (“Start/Stop” button) once.

a “Start/Stop” button

X After reverse/reinforcement stitches are

sewn, the machine starts sewing.

After reaching the end of the stitching, press

e

“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button

(

This step is not necessary if a stitch such as those for sewing buttonholes and bar tacks is selected where reinforcement stitches are automatically sewn.

) once.

2

Press on the LCD.

c

This step is not necessary if a stitch such as those for sewing buttonholes and bar tacks is selected where reinforcement stitches are automatically sewn.

It turns to , and the sewing machine is set

X

for automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching.

• To turn automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching off, press .

• When the sewing machine is turned off, the automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching setting is cancelled.

a “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button

X After reverse/reinforcement stitches are

sewn, the sewing machine stops.

z Reverse/reinforcement stitches WILL NOT

be sewn until (“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button) is pressed. (“Start/Stop” button) may be pressed to stop stitching when needed such as for pivoting corners.

Useful Functions 61

SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Memo

1

The thread is cut here.

Set the fabric in place, and press (“Start/

d

Automatically cutting the

Stop” button) once.

thread

The sewing machine can be set to automatically cut the threads at the end of the stitching. This is called “programmed thread-cutting”. If programmed threadcutting is set, automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching is also set.

Turn on the sewing machine.

a

a “Start/Stop” button

X Stitching starts after reverse stitching or

reinforcement stitching.

X The LCD comes on.

Select a stitch.

b

• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 51).

Press on the screen.

c

X You get , and the sewing machine is

set for programmed thread-cutting and automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching.

• To turn programmed thread cutting off, press

.

Once you have reached the end of the

e

stitching, press (“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button) once.

If stitching, such as buttonholes and bar tacking, that includes reinforcement stitching has been selected, this operation is unnecessary.

X After the reverse stitching or reinforcement

stitching has been done, the sewing machine stops, and the thread is cut.

z Reverse/reinforcement stitches WILL NOT

be sewing and the thread will not automatically be cut until (“Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitch” button) is pressed.

(“Start/Stop” button) may be pressed to stop stitching when needed such as for pivoting corners.

z If the power is turned off, programmed

thread-cutting will be turned off.

62

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Memo

Mirroring stitches

You can sew the mirror image of a stitch horizontally (left and right).

Turn on the sewing machine.

a

X The LCD comes on.

Select a stitch.

b

• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 51).

Press on the screen.

c

2

X It turns to , and the pattern displayed at

the top of the screen is mirrored.

• To turn the mirrored stitching off, press .

z Mirroring is not possible for buttonholes and

other stitches where shows.

z When the sewing machine is turned off, the

mirroring setting is cancelled.

Useful Functions 63

SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Useful Sewing Tips

Various ways to achieve better results for your sewing projects are described below. Refer to these tips when sewing your project.

Trial sewing

After you have set up the machine with the thread and needle appropriate for the type of fabric being sewn, the machine automatically sets the thread tension and stitch length and width for the stitch that is selected. However, a trial piece of fabric should be sewn since, depending on the type of fabric and stitching being sewn, the desired results may not be achieved. For the trial sewing, use a piece of fabric and thread that are the same as those used for your project, and check the thread tension and stitch length and width. Since the results differ depending on the type of stitching and the number of layers of fabric sewn, perform the trial sewing under the same conditions that will be used with your project.

Changing the sewing direction

When the stitching reaches a corner, stop the

a

sewing machine.

Leave the needle lowered (in the fabric). If the needle remained up when the machine stopped sewing, press (“Needle Position” button) to lower the needle.

Raise the presser foot lever, and then turn the

b

fabric.

Turn the fabric using the needle as a pivot.

Sewing curves

Stop sewing, and then slightly change the sewing direction to sew around the curve. For details on sewing with an even seam allowance, refer to “Sewing an even seam allowance” (page 66).

When sewing along a curve while using a zigzag stitch, select a shorter stitch length in order to obtain a finer stitch.

Adjusting the presser foot pressure

The presser foot pressure (the amount of pressure applied to the fabric by the presser foot) can be adjusted.

Lower the presser foot lever to lower the

a

presser foot.

Lower the presser foot lever and continue

c

sewing.

64

a Presser foot lever

1

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

CAUTION

a

1

Turn the presser foot pressure dial at the back

b

of the machine to adjust the pressure of the presser foot. The scale on the dial indicates the range from 1 (weak) to 4 (strong). Turn the dial to the right (smaller number) to decrease the pressure. Turn the dial to the left (larger number) to increase the pressure.

a Sewing direction

Raise the presser foot lever.

a

Align the beginning of stitching, and then

b

position the fabric.

While holding zigzag foot “J” level, hold the

c

a Strong b Weak

When you are finished sewing, reset the dial to

c

3 (standard).

presser foot locking pin (black button on the left side) pressed in, and lower the presser foot lever.

Sewing thick fabrics

2

■ If the fabric does not fit under the presser foot

If the fabric does not fit easily under the presser foot, raise the presser foot lever even higher to bring the presser foot to its highest position.

■ If thick seams are being sewn and the fabric does not feed at the beginning of stitching

The fabric may not feed when thick seams are being sewn and the presser foot is not level, as shown below. In this case, use the presser foot locking pin (black button on the left side of zigzag foot “J”) so that the presser foot remains level while sewing, allowing the fabric to be fed smoothly.

a Presser foot holding pin (black button)

Release the presser foot locking pin (black

d

button).

X The presser foot remains level, allowing the

fabric to be fed.

X After the seam is sewn, the presser foot will

return to its original angle.

● If fabric more than 6 mm (15/64 inch) thick is sewn or if the fabric is pushed with too much force, the needle may bend or break.

Useful Sewing Tips 65

SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

1

Sewing thin fabrics

When sewing thin fabrics, the stitching may become misaligned or the fabric may not feed correctly. If this occurs, place thin paper or stabilizer material under the fabric and sew it together with the fabric. When you have finished sewing, tear off any excess paper.

a Stabilizer material or paper

Sewing stretch fabrics

First, baste the pieces of fabric together, and then sew without stretching the fabric.

Sewing an even seam allowance

To sew an even seam, start sewing so that the seam allowance is to the right of the presser foot, and the edge of the fabric is aligned with either the right edge of the presser foot or a marking on the needle plate.

■ Aligning the fabric with the presser foot

Sew while keeping the right edge of the presser foot a fixed distance from the edge of the fabric.

a Seam b Presser foot

■ Aligning the fabric with the stitch guide foot

Sew while keeping the right edge of the fabric aligned with a desired position of markings on the stitch guide foot.

a Basting

For best results when sewing on knit fabrics use the stretch stitches recommended below. Also be sure to use a needle for knits.

459

10

34

Sewing leathers or vinyl fabrics

When sewing the fabrics that may stick to the presser foot such as leathers or coated fabrics, change the presser foot to the non stick foot.

a Leather

66

a Seam b Stitch guide foot c Markings

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Note

6

■ Aligning the fabric with a needle plate marking

The markings on the needle plate show the distance from the needle position of a seam sewn with the straight stitch (left needle position). Sew while keeping the edge of the fabric aligned with a marking in the needle plate. The distance between the markings in the upper scale is 1/8 inch (3 mm) and the distance between the markings in the grid is 5 mm (3/16 inch).

Hands-free raising and lowering of the presser foot

Using the knee lifter, you can raise and lower the presser foot with your knee, leaving both hands free to handle the fabric.

a Seam b Presser foot c Centimeters d Inches e Needle plate f 1.6 cm (5/8 inch)

■ Installing the knee lifter

Turn off the sewing machine.

a

Insert the knee lifter into the mounting slot on

b

the front of the sewing machine in the lowerright corner.

Align the tabs on the knee lifter with the notches in the mounting slot, and then insert the knee lifter as far as possible.

2

a Tabs b Notches

z If the knee lifter is not fully inserted into the

mounting slot, it may fall out while the sewing machine is operating.

Useful Sewing Tips 67

SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

CAUTION

Note

■ Using the knee lifter

Sewing hook-and-loop

Stop the sewing machine.

a

• Do not use the knee lifter while the sewing machine is operating.

With your knee, press the knee lifter to the

b

right.

Keep the knee lifter pressed to the right.

X The presser foot is raised.

Release the knee lifter.

c

X The presser foot is lowered.

fastener

● Use only the ungummed hook-and-loop fastener which is for sewing. If the glue is attached to the needle or the bobbin hook race, it may cause malfunction.

● If the hook-and-loop fastener is sewn with the thin needle (65/9-75/11), the needle may bend or break.

z Before start sewing, baste together the fabric

and the hook-and-loop fastener.

Make sure that the needle passes through the hookand-loop fastener by turning the handwheel and lower the needle into the hook-and-loop fastener before sewing. And then, sew the edge of the hookand-loop fastener at a slow speed. If the needle does not pass through the hook-andloop fastener, replace the needle with the needle for thick fabrics (page 41).

● While sewing, keep your knee away from the knee lifter. If the knee lifter is pressed while the sewing machine is operating, the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.

a Edge of the hook-and-loop fastener

68

3 UTILITY STITCHES

The various stitches and their applications are described in this chapter.

Stitch Setting Chart ............................. 70

Utility stitches ................................ 70

Other stitches................................. 74

Selecting Stitching ............................... 77

Stitch types..................................... 77

Selecting stitching ..........................77

Saving stitch settings ...................... 79

Overcasting Stitches............................ 81

Sewing overcasting stitches

using overcasting foot “G”.............81

Sewing overcasting stitches

using zigzag foot “J” ...................... 82

Sewing overcasting stitches

using the optional side cutter .........83

Basic Stitching ..................................... 85

Basting ...........................................85

Basic stitching ................................85

Blind Hem Stitching ............................ 87

Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing....89

Buttonhole sewing.......................... 90

Button sewing ................................ 94

Zipper Insertion................................... 96

Inserting a centered zipper ............ 96

Inserting a side zipper .................... 98

Zipper/piping Insertion ..................... 101

Inserting a centered zipper .......... 101

Inserting a piping ......................... 102

Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape

Stretch stitching ........................... 103

Elastic attaching ...........................103

..........................................

103

Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching

Appliqué stitching ........................106

Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching.. 107

Piecing..........................................107

Quilting ........................................ 109

Free-motion quilting.....................110

Satin stitching using the sewing

speed controller ...........................111

Reinforcement Stitching ....................113

Triple stretch stitching..................113

Bar tack stitching..........................113

Darning ........................................ 115

Eyelet Stitching.................................. 117

Horizontal Stitching ..........................118

Decorative Stitching ..........................120

Fagoting........................................121

Scallop stitching ...........................122

Smocking......................................122

Shell tuck stitching .......................123

Joining .......................................... 124

Heirloom stitching........................125

Sewing the Various Built-in

Decorative Patterns ........................... 128

Sewing beautiful patterns .............128

Sewing patterns ............................128

Changing the pattern size.............129

Changing the stitch density ..........129

Changing the length

for satin stitches ...........................130

Shifting patterns ...........................131

Combining patterns ......................132

Saving patterns .............................135

Realigning the pattern ..................136

Designing a Pattern

(My Custom Stitch)............................ 139

Drawing a sketch of the pattern...139

Entering the pattern data.............. 140

Examples of designs ......................142

....................................

105

UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Stitch Setting Chart

Applications, stitch lengths and widths and whether the twin needle can be used are listed for utility stitches in the following table.

Utility stitches

Stitch Name Pattern

Straight

Left

stitch

Center

Triple stretch stitch

Stretch stitch

Basting stitch

Zigzag

Center

stitch

Right

2-point

zigzag stitch

3-point

zigzag stitch

Application

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

Reverse/

Reinforcement

Stitching

Presser Foot

1

2

3

Basic stitching, sewing gathers

J

or pintucks, etc.

Basic stitching and sewing

J

gathers or pintucks

Attaching zippers, basic

J/I

stitching, sewing gathers or pintucks, etc.

4

Attaching sleeves, sewing

J

inseams, sewing stretch fabrics and decorative stitching

5

6

Sewing stretch fabrics and

J

decorative stitching

J Temporarily securing

7

8

9

Overcasting and attaching

J

appliqués

Beginning sewing from the right

J

needle position

Overcasting on medium weight

J

or stretch fabrics, attaching elastic, darning, etc.

10

Overcasting on medium weight

J

or stretch fabrics, attaching elastic, darning, etc.

11

Overcasting on thin or medium

G

weight fabrics

Auto Manual Auto Manual

0.0 (0)

3.5

(1/8)

0.0 (0)

1.0

(1/16)

0.0 (0)

3.5

(1/8)

3.5

(1/8)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

3.5

(1/8)

0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)

1.0–3.0

(1/16–1/8)

0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)20(3/4)

0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)

2.5–5.0

(3/32–3/16)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

2.5–5.0

(3/32–3/16)

2.5

(3/32)

2.5

(3/32)

2.5

(3/32)

2.5

(3/32)

2.5

(3/32)

1.4

(1/16)

1.4

(1/16)

1.0

(1/16)

1.0

(1/16)

2.0

(1/16)

0.2–5.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.2–5.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.2–5.0

(1/64–3/16)

1.5–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

5–30

(3/16–1-3/16)

0.0–4.0

(0–3/16)

0.3–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

Twin Needle

Yes

Reverse No

(J)

Yes

Reinforcement Yes

(J)

Yes

Reverse No

(J)

Yes

Reinforcement No

(J)

Yes

Reinforcement No

(J)

No Reinforcement No

Yes

Reverse No

(J)

Yes

Reinforcement Yes

(J)

Yes

Reinforcement Yes

(J)

Yes

Reinforcement No

(J)

No Reinforcement No

Walking Foot

Overcasting stitch

70

12

13

14

15

16

G Overcasting on thick fabrics

Preventing fraying in thick fabrics

G

and fabrics that fray easily

J Overcasting on stretch fabrics

Overcasting on thick or stretch

J

fabrics

Overcasting on stretch fabrics

J

and decorative stitching

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

4.0

(3/16)

2.5–5.0

(3/32–3/16)

3.5–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)

2.5

(3/32)

2.5

(3/32)

2.5

(3/32)

2.5

(3/32)

4.0

(3/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

0.5–4.0

(1/32–3/16)

0.5–4.0

(1/32–3/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

No Reinforcement No

Yes

Reinforcement No

(J)

Yes

Reinforcement No

(J)

Yes

Reinforcement No

(J)

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

—

Stitch Name Pattern

Blind hem stitch

Appliqué stitch

Shell tuck stitch

Piecing straight

stitch

Straight stitch that

looks hand-sewn

(for quilting)

Zigzag stitch (for quilting)

Appliqué stitch

(for quilting)

Quilting stitch

(for stippling)

Satin scallop stitch

17

18

19

20

21

22

23

24

25

26

27

Application

Presser Foot

Blind hem stitching on medium

R

weight fabrics

Blind hem stitching on stretch

R

fabrics

J Appliqué stitching

J Shell tuck stitching

Piecing straight stitching (with a seam allowance of 6.5 mm (1/4

J

inch) from the right edge of the presser foot)

Piecing straight stitching (with a seam allowance of 6.5 mm (1/4

J

inch) from the left edge of the presser foot)

Straight stitch quilting that looks

J

hand-sewn

Appliqué quilting, free-motion

J

quilting, satin stitching

J Attaching appliqués and binding

Quilting background stitching

J

(stippling)

N Scallop stitching

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

00 (0)

3.5

(1/8)

4.0

(3/16)

5.5

(7/32)

1.5

(1/16)

0.0 (0)

3.5

(1/8)

1.5

(1/16)

7.0

(1/4)

5.0

(3/16)

3← – →3

2.5–7.0

(3/32–1/4)

0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)

0.5–3.5

(1/32–1/8)

1.0–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

2.5–7.0

(3/32–1/4)

2.0

(1/16)

2.0

(1/16)

2.5

(3/32)

2.5

(3/32)

2.0

(1/16)

2.0

(1/16)

2.5

(3/32)

1.4

(1/16)

1.8

(1/16)

1.6

(1/16)

0.5

(1/32)

1.0–3.5

(1/16–1/8)

1.0–3.5

(1/16–1/8)

1.6–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.2–5.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.2–5.0

(1/64–3/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

0.0–4.0

(0–3/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

0.1–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

Reverse/

Reinforcement

Stitching

Twin Needle

No Reinforcement No

Yes

Reinforcement No

(J)

Yes

Reinforcement No

(J)

No Reinforcement No

No Reinforcement Yes

No Reinforcement No

No Reinforcement Yes

No Reinforcement No

Yes

Reinforcement No

(J)

Walking Foot

3

Joining stitch

Smocking stitch

Fagoting stitch

Elastic-attaching

stitch

Ladder stitch

Rick-rack stitch

28

29

30

31

32

33

34

35

36

Patchwork stitching and

J

decorative stitching

Patchwork stitching, decorative stitching and sewing overcasting

J

on both pieces of fabric, such as with tricot

Patchwork stitching and

J

decorative stitching

Smocking stitching and

J

decorative stitching

Fagoting and decorative

J

stitching

Fagoting and decorative

J

stitching

Attaching elastic to stretch

J

fabrics

J Decorative stitching

4.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

4.0

(3/16)

4.0

(3/16)

4.0

(3/16)

0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)

2.5–7.0

(3/32–1/4)

0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)

2.5–7.0

(3/32–1/4)

0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)

1.2

(1/16)

2.5

(3/32)

1.2

(1/16)

1.6

(1/16)

2.5

(3/32)

2.5

(3/32)

1.0

(1/16)

3.0

(1/8)

2.5

(3/32)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

2.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

Yes

Reinforcement No

(J)

Yes

Reinforcement No

(J)

Yes

Reinforcement No

(J)

Yes

Reinforcement No

(J)

Yes

Reinforcement No

(J)

Yes

Reinforcement No

(J)

Yes

Reinforcement No

(J)

No Reinforcement No

Yes

Reinforcement No

(J)

Stitch Setting Chart 71

UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Stitch Name Pattern

Decorative stitch

Serpentine stitch

Hemstitching

Buttonhole stitch

Stitch Width

Application

Presser Foot

37

J Decorative stitching

38

39

40

41

Decorative stitching and elastic-

N

attaching

Lace sewing, decorative

N

hemming, heirloom stitching, etc.

Decorative hemming, heirloom

N

stitching, etc.

Decorative hemming on thin,

N

medium weight and plain weave fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc.

42

43

44

Decorative hemming on thin,

N

medium weight and plain weave fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc.

Decorative hemming on thin,

N

medium weight and plain weave fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc.

Decorative hemming on thin,

N

medium weight and plain weave fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc.

45

Decorative hemming, ribbon

N

threading, heirloom stitching, etc.

46

47

48

49

50

51

Decorative stitching, smocking

N

stitching, heirloom stitching, etc.

Decorative stitching, smocking

N

stitching, heirloom stitching, etc.

Horizontal buttonholes on thin

A

and medium weight fabrics

Horizontal buttonholes on areas

A

that are subject to strain

Horizontal buttonholes on thick

A

fabrics

Secured buttonholes for fabrics

A

that have backings

[mm (inch)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

5.5

0.0–7.0

(7/32)

(3/16)

(15/64)

(3/16)

(15/64)

(3/16)

5.0

3.5

(1/8)

6.0

5.0

6.0

5.0

(0–1/4)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

3.0–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

3.0–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

3.0–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

3.0–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

1.6

(1/16)

(1/16–3/16)

1.0

(1/16)

(1/64–3/16)

2.5

(3/32)

(1/16–3/16)

3.0

(1/8)

(1/16–3/16)

3.5

(1/8)

(1/16–3/16)

4.0

(3/16)

2.5

(3/32)

(1/16–3/16)

2.0

(1/16)

(1/16–3/16)

3.0

(1/8)

(1/16–3/16)

1.6

(1/16)

(1/16–3/16)

1.6

(1/16)

(1/16–3/16)

0.4

(1/64)

(1/64–1/16)

0.4

(1/64)

(1/64–1/16)

0.4

(1/64)

(1/64–1/16)

0.4

(1/64)

(1/64–1/16)

1.0–4.0

0.2–4.0

1.6–4.0

1.5–4.0

1/16–3/16)

1.5–4.0

1.0–4.0

0.2–1.0

Reverse/

Reinforcement

Stitching

Twin Needle

Yes

Reinforcement No

(J)

Yes

Reinforcement No

(J)

No Reinforcement No

Yes

Reinforcement No

(J)

Yes

Reinforcement No

(J)

Yes

Reinforcement No

(J)

Yes

Reinforcement No

(J)

No Reinforcement No

Automatic

No

reinforcement

Automatic

reinforcement

Automatic

reinforcement

Automatic

reinforcement

No

Walking Foot

72

52

53

54

Buttonholes for stretch or knit

A

fabrics

A Buttonholes for stretch fabrics

A Bound buttonholes

6.0

(15/54)

6.0

(15/54)

5.0

(3/16)

3.0–6.0

(1/8–15/64)

3.0–6.0

(1/8–15/64)

0.0–6.0

(0–15/64)

1.0

(1/16)

1.5

(1/16)

2.0

(1/16)

0.5–2.0

(1/32–1/16)

1.0–3.0

(1/16–1/8)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

No

Automatic

reinforcement

Automatic

reinforcement

Automatic

reinforcement

No

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

—

Stitch Name Pattern

Buttonhole stitch

Darning stitch

Bar tack stitch

Button-sewing stitch

Eyelet stitch

Side cutter

Horizontal straight

stitch

Horizontal zigzag

stitch

Presser Foot

55

56

57

58

59

60

61

62

63

64

65

Keyhole buttonholes for thick or

A

furry fabrics

Keyhole buttonholes for

A

medium weight and thick fabrics

Horizontal buttonholes for thick

A

or furry fabrics

A Darning medium weight fabrics

A Darning thick fabrics

Reinforcing openings and areas

A

where the seam easily comes loose

M Button sewing

Sewing eyelets, for example, on

N

belts

Sewing straight stitches while

S

cutting the fabric

Sewing zigzag stitches while

S

cutting the fabric

Overcasting on thin and

S

medium weight fabrics while cutting the fabric

66

67

68

69

70

71

Overcasting on thick fabrics

S

while cutting the fabric

Overcasting on medium weight

S

and thick fabrics while cutting the fabric

Attaching appliqués to sleeves

N

(straight stitch sewn to the left)

Attaching appliqués to sleeves

N

(straight stitch sewn to the right)

Attaching appliqués to sleeves

N

(zigzag stitch sewn to the left)

Attaching appliqués to sleeves

N

(zigzag stitch sewn to the right)

Application

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

7.0

3.0–7.0

(1/4)

(1/8–1/4)

7.0

3.0–7.0

(1/4)

(1/8–1/4)

7.0

3.0–7.0

(1/4)

(1/8–1/4)

7.0

2.5–7.0

(1/4)

(3/32–1/4)

7.0

2.5–7.0

(1/4)

(3/32–1/4)

2.0

1.0–3.0

(1/16)

(1/16–1/8)

3.5

2.5–4.5

(1/8)

(3/32–3/16)

7.0, 6.0,

7.0

5.0 (1/4,

(1/4)

(1/8)

(3/16)

0.0 (0)

3.5

5.0

15/64,

3/16)

0.0–2.5 (0–3/32)

3.5–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

3.5–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

3.5–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

3.5–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

Twin Needle

0.5

(1/32)

0.5

(1/32)

0.5

(1/32)

2.0

(1/16)

2.0

(1/16)

0.4

(1/64)

0.3–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

0.3–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

0.3–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

0.4–2.5

(1/64–3/32)

0.4–2.5

(1/64–3/32)

0.3–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

No

––No

7.0, 6.0,

7.0

(1/4)

2.5

(3/32)

1.4

(1/16)

2.0

(1/16)

2.5

(3/32)

2.5

(3/32)

5.0 (1/4, 15/64,

3/16)

0.2–5.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.0–4.0

(0–3/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

No

No Reinforcement No

Reverse/

Reinforcement

Stitching

Automatic

reinforcement

Automatic

reinforcement

Automatic

reinforcement

Automatic

reinforcement

Automatic

reinforcement

Automatic

reinforcement

Automatic

reinforcement

Automatic

reinforcement

– – – – No Reinforcement No

Walking Foot

No

3

Stitch Setting Chart 73

UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Other stitches

Stitch Type Pattern

Adjustable

Pattern Size

Length/width

Stitching Density

Adjustable Pattern

Left/Right Flipping

1 2345678910

Presser Foot

Twin Needle

Decorative

stitches

Satin

stitches

Cross-

stitches

Decorative

satin

stitches

11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20

21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29* 30*

31**

1 2345678910

11 12 13 14 15 16 17* 18*

1 23456*7*8*9*10*

11* 12* 13* 14* 15*

1 2345678910

Yes

Large,

Small

Large,

Small

No

Large No

Yes

possible)

NNo

N

(*Not

possible)

NNoLargeNo

NNo

Large:

No

Small:

Yes

(*Not

Yes

(*Not

Yes

(*Not

Yes

(length

only)

Yes

(*Not

possible)

Yes

11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20

Combined

utility

stitches

** Pattern for making adjustment

21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30

31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39

74

N No Large No Yes Yes

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

—

Stitch Type Pattern

Adjustable

Presser Foot

12345678910

11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20

21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30

31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40

Pattern Size

Twin Needle

Stitching Density

Length/width

Adjustable Pattern

Left/Right Flipping

Character

stitches

(Gothic font)

Character

stitches

(Script font)

41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50

51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60

61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70

71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80

81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90

91 92 93 94 95 96 97

12345678910

11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20

21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30

31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40

41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50

51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60

NNo

N No Large No No Yes

Large,

Small

No No Yes

3

61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70

71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80

81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90

91 92 93 94 95 96 97

Stitch Setting Chart 75

UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Stitch Type Pattern

Adjustable

Presser Foot

Pattern Size

Twin Needle

Stitching Density

Length/width

Adjustable Pattern

Left/Right Flipping

12345678910

11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20

21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30

31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40

Character

stitches

(Outline

style)

41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50

51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60

61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70

71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80

81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90

91 92 93 94 95 96 97

NNo

Large,

Small

No No Yes

76

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

—

d

jifa c

e g h kb

Selecting Stitching

This section provides details on the various types of stitches available and the procedure for selecting a stitch.

h Combined utility stitches

Stitch types

A stitch can be selected from the following types available. For details on the various stitches, refer to “Stitch Setting Chart” (page 70).

a Utility stitches

You can select from 71 utility stitches, including straight line stitching, overcasting, button holes and basic decorative stitches. If this is selected, the utility stitch selection appears right after the power is turned on.

b My Custom Stitch

You can design original stitches. (For details, refer to “Designing a Pattern (My Custom Stitch)” (page

139).)

c Character stitches—Gothic font

(Can be combined) There are 97 characters, including letters, symbols and numbers, in the Gothic font.

(Can be combined) You can sew with combinations from 39 utility stitches.

i Decorative satin stitches

(Can be combined) There are 10 decorative satin stitches.

j Cross stitches

(Can be combined) You can select from 15 cross stitches. You can sew combinations of multiple decorative stitches.

k Patterns saved in the machine's memory

You can retrieve a saved pattern. (For details, refer to “Saving patterns” (page 135).)

Selecting stitching

Turn on the sewing machine.

a

• When an animation is displayed on the screen, touch the screen with your finger.

X The straight stitch (left needle position) is

shown selected on the screen.

Press (Utility stitch key) on the operation

b

panel.

3

d Character stitches—Script font

(Can be combined) There are 97 characters, including letters, symbols and numbers, in the Script font.

e Character stitches—Outline style

(Can be combined) There are 97 characters, including letters, symbols and numbers, in the outline style.

f Decorative stitches

(Can be combined) You can select from 31 decorative stitches, including leaves, flowers and hearts. You can sew combinations of multiple decorative stitches.

g Satin stitches

(Can be combined) You can select from 18 satin stitches. You can sew combinations of multiple decorative stitches.

X The screen containing the various types of

stitches appears.

Selecting Stitching 77

UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Note

Memo

a

b

i

h

g

jk

fedc

Select the stitch type.

c

 When a decorative stitch is selected

X The screen containing the various stitches in

the selected stitch type appears.

• To select a different stitch type, press (Back key).

Press the stitch selection.

d

(Previous page key) displays the previous screen, and (Next page key) displays the next screen.

If necessary, specify the setting for automatic

e

reverse/reinforcement stitching and adjust the stitch length, etc.

• For details on sewing with each of the utility stitches, begin on page 81.

z When a stitch is selected, the icon for the

presser foot that should be used appears on the screen. Check that the correct presser foot is attached before starting to sew. If the wrong presser foot is installed, turn off the sewing machine, attach the correct presser foot, and then select the desired stitch again.

z For details on adjusting the stitch width and

length, refer to “Adjusting the stitch width” (page 58) and “Adjusting the stitch length” (page 59).

■ Selecting characters

Three styles of character stitches are available. The procedure for selecting a character is the same with all styles.

Follow steps a and b in “Selecting stitching”

a

(page 77) to display the screen where a stitch type can be selected.

Select the character style.

b

Select the characters.

a Decorative stitch selection b Set width, length and tension c Large pattern size d Small pattern size e Single stitch sewing f Repeat sewing g Horizontal mirror image h Delete a selected pattern i Check combined pattern j Automatic thread cutting k Automatic reverse/reinforcement stitch

• To select a different stitch, press to remove the selected pattern.

c

• If a wrong character was selected, press to erase the character, and then select the correct character.

•

To select a different character style, press

, and then select the new character style.

• Press to view a sample of the selected pattern.

• To enter a space, press “_”.

78

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

—

Memo

 Example: Bus

Saving stitch settings

This machine is preset with the default settings for the stitch width (zigzag width), stitch length, thread tension, programmed thread cutting, and automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching for each stitch. However, if you wish to save specific settings for a

stitch so that they can be used later, press after changing the settings to save the new settings with the selected stitch. This feature can be used only with utility stitches.

 To use a stitch length of 2.0 mm for the

straight stitch

Select a straight stitch.

a

Press .

b

z The default stitch length is 2.5 mm.

3

Set the stitch length to 2.0 mm.

c

Press .

d

• To reset the selected stitch pattern to its default settings, press , and then press

.

X The confirmation message is displayed.

Selecting Stitching 79

UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Note

Press .

e

z The next time that the same straight stitch is

selected, the stitch length is set to 2.0 mm.

z All stitch settings (stitch width (zigzag

width), stitch length, thread tension, programmed thread cutting, and automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching, etc.) are saved, not just the setting that was changed. When the same stitch pattern is selected, the last settings saved are displayed even if the machine was turned off. If the settings are

changed again, or if is pressed to reset the setting to its default, the new settings are

not saved unless is pressed another time.

Even if is pressed, the settings for programmed thread cutting and automatic

reverse/reinforcement stitching cannot be reset.

80

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

—

G

a

1

Overcasting Stitches

Sew overcasting stitches along the edges of cut fabric to prevent fabric from fraying. 15 stitches are available for overcasting. The procedure for sewing overcasting stitch is explained according to the presser foot that is used.

Sewing overcasting stitches using overcasting foot “G”

Three stitches can be used to sew overcasting with overcasting foot “G”.

Stitch Name Pattern Application

11

Overcasting

stitch

Attach overcasting foot “G”.

a

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 44).

Select a stitch.

b

12

13

Preventing fraying in medium weight and thin fabrics

Preventing fraying in thick fabrics and fabrics that fray easily

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

3.5

(1/8)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

c

d

2.5–5.0

(3/32–3/16)

2.5–5.0

(3/32–3/16)

3.5–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

Position the fabric with the edge of the fabric against the guide of the presser foot, and then lower the presser foot lever.

a Guide

Sew with the edge of the fabric against the presser foot guide.

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

2.0

(1/16)

(3/32)

(1/16–3/16)

2.5 (1/16–3/16)

1.0–4.0

Presser

Foot

3

G

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page

51).

a Needle drop point

Overcasting Stitches 81

UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

J

a

1

Sewing overcasting stitches using zigzag foot “J”

Seven stitches can be used to sew overcasting stitches with zigzag foot “J”.

Stitch Name Pattern Application

Zigzag stitch

7

(center

needle

Preventing fraying (center baseline/reverse stitching)

position)

Zigzag stitch (right needle

position)

2-point

zigzag stitch

3-point

8

Preventing fraying (right baseline/reinforcement stitching)

9

Preventing fraying in thick

10

fabrics and stretch fabrics

zigzag stitch

14

Preventing fraying in stretch fabrics

Overcasting

stitch

15

16

Preventing fraying in thick fabrics and stretch fabrics

Preventing fraying in stretch fabrics

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

a

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

3.5

(1/8)

3.5

(1/8)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

4.0

(3/16)

0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)

2.5–5.0

(3/32–3/16)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)

1.4

(1/16)

1.4

(1/16)

1.0

(1/16)

1.0

(1/16)

2.5

(3/32)

2.5

(3/32)

4.0

(3/16)

0.0–4.0

(0–3/16)

0.3–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.5–4.0

(1/32–3/16)

0.5–4.0

(1/32–3/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

Sew along the edge of the fabric with the

c

needle dropping off the edge at the right.

Presser

Foot

J

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 44).

Select a stitch.

b

a Needle drop point

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page

51).

82

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

—

Note

b

a

b

a

Sewing overcasting stitches using the optional side cutter

Using the side cutter, seam allowances can be finished while the edge of the fabric is cut off. Five stitches can be used to sew overcasting stitches with the side cutter.

z Thread the needle manually when using the side cutter, or only attach the side cutter after threading the

needle using the needle threader.

Stitch Name Pattern Application

63

64

Side Cutter

Remove the presser foot.

a

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 44).

65

66

67

Sewing straight stitches while cutting the fabric

Sewing zigzag stitches while cutting the fabric

Preventing fraying in thin and medium weight fabrics while cutting the fabric

Preventing fraying in thick fabrics while cutting the fabric

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

0.0 (0)

3.5

(1/8)

3.5

(1/8)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

c

0.0–2.5

(0–3/32)

3.5–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

3.5–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

3.5–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

3.5–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

Position the side cutter so that side cutter pin is aligned with the notch in the presser foot holder, and then slowly lower the presser foot lever.

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

2.5

(3/32)

(1/16)

(3/32)

(1/64–3/16)

1.4

2.0 ( 1/16–3/16)

2.5 ( 1/16–3/16)

0.2–5.0

0.0–4.0

(0–3/16)

1.0–4.0

Presser

Foot

3

S

Hook the connecting fork of the side cutter

b

onto the needle clamp screw.

a Connecting fork b Needle clamp screw

a Notch in presser foot holder b Pin

X The side cutter is attached.

Overcasting Stitches 83

UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Memo

1

Raise the presser foot lever to check that the

d

side cutter is securely attached.

Pass the upper thread under the side cutter,

e

and then pull it out toward the rear of the sewing machine.

Select a stitch.

f

Position the fabric in the side cutter.

h

The cut in the fabric should be positioned over the guide plate of the side cutter.

a Guide plate

• If the fabric is not positioned correctly, the fabric will not be cut.

Lower the presser foot lever, and then start

i

sewing.

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page

51).

Make a cut of about 2 cm (3/4 inch) long in

g

the fabric at the beginning of the stitching.

a 2 cm (3/4 inch)

X A seam allowance is cut while the stitching

is sewn.

• If the stitching is sewn in a straight line 63, the seam allowance will be about 5 mm (3/16 inch).

a 5 mm (3/16 inch)

z The side cutter can cut as much as one layer

of 13-oz. denim.

z After using the side cutter, clean it by

removing any lint or dust.

z If the side cutter can no longer cut fabric,

use a rag to apply a small amount of oil to the cutting edge of the cutter.

84

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

—

J

Basic Stitching

Straight stitches are used for sewing plain seams. Five stitches are available for basic stitching.

Stitch Name Pattern Application

Basting stitch

Straight stitch

(left needle

position)

Straight stitch

(center

needle

position)

Triple stretch

stitch

6

Temporarily securing

Basic stitching and sewing

1

gathers or pintucks (left baseline/ reverse stitching)

Basic stitching and sewing

2

gathers or pintucks (left baseline/ reinforcement stitching)

Basic stitching and sewing

3

gathers or pintucks (center baseline/reverse stitching)

4

Reinforcing seams and sewing stretch fabrics

Basting

Sew basting with a stitch length between 5 mm (3/16 inch) and 30 mm (1-3/16 inches).

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

a

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

0.0 (0)

3.5

(1/8)

0.0 (0)

0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

20

(3/4)

(3/16–1-3/16)

2.5

(3/32)

(1/64–3/16)

2.5 (1/64–3/16)

2.5 (1/16–3/16)

5–30

0.2–5.0

1.5–4.0

Basic stitching

Baste or pin together the fabric pieces.

a

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

b

Presser

Foot

J

3

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 44).

Select stitch 6.

b

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page

51).

Start sewing.

c

•

For details, refer to

53)

.

“Starting to sew” (page

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 44).

Select a stitch.

c

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page

51).

Lower the needle into the fabric at the

d

beginning of the stitching.

Basic Stitching 85

UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

12

0.0 2.0 5.5 7.0

34 5

6

1

2

Lower the presser foot lever, and then start

e

sewing.

• For details, refer to “Starting to sew” (page

53).

• For details on sewing reverse/reinforcement stitches, refer to “Securing the stitching” (page 55).

When sewing is finished, cut the thread.

f

• For details, refer to “Cutting the thread” (page

56).

■ Changing the needle position

The needle position used as the baseline is different for the straight stitch (left needle position) and the straight stitch (center needle position).

a Straight stitch (left needle position) b Straight stitch (center needle position)

When the stitch width of the straight stitch (left needle position) is set to its standard setting (0.0 mm), the distance from the needle position to the right side of the presser foot is 12 mm (1/2 inch). If the stitch width is changed (between 0 and 7.0 mm (1/4 inch)), the needle position will also change. By changing the stitch width and sewing with the right side of the presser foot aligned with the edge of the fabric, a seam allowance can be sewn with a fixed width.

86

a Stitch width setting b Distance from the needle position to the right side

of the presser foot

c 12.0 mm (1/2 inch) d 10.0 mm (3/8 inch) e 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) f 5.0 mm (3/16 inch)

• For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch width” (page 58).

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

—

2

1

2

3

Blind Hem Stitching

Secure the bottoms of skirts and pants with a blind hem. Two stitches are available for blind hem stitching.

Stitch Name Pattern Application

Blind hem

stitch

17

18

Blind hem stitching on medium weight fabrics

Blind hem stitching on stretch fabrics

Sew a blind hem according to the following procedure.

Fold the fabric along the desired edge of the

a

hem, and then baste it about 5 mm (3/16 inch) from the edge of the fabric.

a Wrong side of fabric b Basting stitching c Desired edge of hem d 5 mm (3/16 inch)

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

00

3← – →3

(0)

00

3← – →3

(0)

Attach blind hem foot “R”.

c

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 44).

Select a stitch.

d

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

2.0

(1/16)

2.0

(1/16)

1.0–3.5

(1/16–1/8)

1.0–3.5

(1/16–1/8)

Presser

Foot

R

3

Fold back the fabric along the basting, and

b

then position the fabric with the wrong side facing up.

a Wrong side of fabric b Basting

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page

51).

Position the fabric with the edge of the folded

e

hem against the guide of the presser foot, and then lower the presser foot lever.

a Wrong side of fabric b Fold of hem c Guide

Blind Hem Stitching 87

UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

1

1 2

Adjust the stitch width until the needle slightly

f

catches the fold of the hem.

a Needle drop point

When you change the needle drop point, raise the needle, and then change the stitch width.

a Stitch width

■ If the needle catches too much of the hem fold

The needle is too far to the left. Press to decrease the stitch width so that the needle slightly catches the fold of the hem.

■ If the needle does not catch the hem fold

The needle is too far to the right. Press to increase the stitch width so that the needle slightly catches the fold of the hem.

a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric

• For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch width” (page 58).

Sew with the fold of the hem against the

g

presser foot guide.

Remove the basting stitching.

h

a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric

88

a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

—

Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing

Buttonholes can be sewn and buttons can be sewn on. 10 stitches are available for sewing one-step buttonholes and one stitch for sewing on buttons.

Stitch Name Pattern Application

48

Horizontal buttonholes on thin and medium weight fabrics

49

Horizontal buttonholes on areas that are subject to strain

50

Horizontal buttonholes on thick fabrics

51

Buttonholes with bar tacks on both ends for stabilized fabrics

Buttonhole

stitch

52

53

54

55

Buttonholes for stretch or knit fabrics

Buttonholes for stretch fabrics

Bound buttonholes

Keyhole buttonholes for thick or plush fabrics

56

Keyhole buttonholes for medium weight and thick fabrics

57

Horizontal buttonhole for thick or plush fabrics

Button-

sewing stitch

61

Button sewing

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

6.0

(15/64)

6.0

(15/64)

5.0

(3/16)

7.0

(1/4)

7.0

(1/4)

7.0

(1/4)

3.5

(1/8)

3.0–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

3.0–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

3.0–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

3.0–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

3.0–6.0

(1/8–15/64)

3.0–6.0

(1/8–15/64)

0.0–6.0

(0–15/64)

3.0–7.0

(1/8–1/4)

3.0–7.0

(1/8–1/4)

3.0–7.0

(1/8–1/4)

2.5–4.5

(3/32–3/16)

0.4

(1/64)

0.4

(1/64)

0.4

(1/64)

0.4

(1/64)

1.0

(1/16)

1.5

(1/16)

2.0

(1/16)

0.5

(1/32)

0.5

(1/32)

0.5

(1/32)

0.2–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

0.2–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

0.2–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

0.2–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

0.5–2.0

(1/32–1/16)

1.0–3.0

(1/16–1/8)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

0.3–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

0.3–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

0.3–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

––M

Presser

Foot

3

A

Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing 89

UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

1

5

2

1

3

4

A

Buttonhole sewing

The maximum buttonhole length is about 28 mm (1-1/8 inches) (diameter + thickness of the button). Buttonholes are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back, as shown below.

a Reinforcement stitching

The names of parts of buttonhole foot “A”, which is used for sewing buttonholes, are indicated below.

Use chalk to mark on the fabric the position

a

and length of the buttonhole.

2

1

a Marks on fabric b Button hole sewing

Pull out the button guide plate of buttonhole

b

foot “A”, and then insert the button that will be put through the buttonhole.

a Button guide plate b Presser foot scale c Pin d Marks on buttonhole foot e 5 mm (3/16 inch)

90

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

—

3

2

1

2

1

A

a

■ If the button does not fit in the button guide plate

Add together the diameter and thickness of the button, and then set the button guide plate to the calculated length. (The distance between the markings on the presser foot scale is 5 mm (3/16 inch).)

a Presser foot scale b Length of buttonhole (diameter + thickness of

button)

c 5 mm (3/16 inch)

Example: For a button with a diameter of 15 mm (9/16 inch) and a thickness of 10 mm (3/8 inch), the button guide plate should be set to 25 mm (1 inch) on the scale.

Select a stitch.

d

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page

51).

Position the fabric with the front end of the

e

buttonhole mark aligned with the red marks on the sides of the buttonhole foot, and then lower the presser foot lever.

3

a 10 mm (3/8 inch) b 15 mm (9/16 inch)

X The size of the buttonhole is set.

Attach buttonhole foot “A”.

c

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser

foot” (page 44).

a Mark on fabric (front) b Red marks on buttonhole foot

Pass the upper thread down through the hole in the presser foot.

• When lowering the presser foot, do not push in the front of the presser foot.

a Do not reduce the gap.

Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing 91

UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Memo

a

2

1

Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as

f

possible.

a Buttonhole lever

The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the bracket on the buttonhole foot.

a Buttonhole lever b Bracket

Gently hold the end of the upper thread in

g

your left hand, and then start sewing.

Press (“Thread Cutter” button) once.

h

X The threads are cut, and the needle is raised.

Raise the presser foot, and then remove the fabric.

z If the automatic thread cutting setting was

selected before sewing, the machine will automatically cut the threads at the end of the stitching. For details, refer to “Automatically cutting the thread” (page 62).

z When using the thread cutter on the left side

of the machine or scissors to cut the threads, press (“Needle Position” button) to raise the needle, raise the presser foot, and then pull out the fabric before cutting the threads. For details, refer to “Using the thread cutter” (page 57).

Raise the buttonhole lever to its original

i

position.

Insert a pin along the inside of one bar tack at

j

the end of the buttonhole stitching to prevent the stitching from being cut.

X Once sewing is completed, the machine

automatically sews reinforcement stitches, then stops.

92

a Pin

Use the seam ripper to cut towards the pin and

k

open the buttonhole.

a Seam ripper

For keyhole buttonholes, use the eyelet punch to make a hole in the rounded end of the buttonhole, and then use the seam ripper to cut open the buttonhole.

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

—

CAUTION

Memo

■ Sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics

When sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics, use a gimp thread.

Hook the gimp thread onto the part of

a

buttonhole foot “A” shown in the illustration.

a Eyelet punch

• When using the eyelet punch, place thick paper or some other protective sheet under the fabric before punching the hole in the fabric.

● When opening the buttonhole with the seam ripper, do not place your hands in the cutting direction, otherwise injuries may result if the seam ripper slips.

● Do not use the seam ripper in any other way than how it is intended.

■ Changing the density of the stitching

Adjust the stitch length.

• For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch length” (page 59).

• If the fabric does not feed (for example, if it is too thick), decrease the density of the stitching.

■ Changing the stitch width

Adjust the stitch width.

It fits into the grooves, and then loosely tie it.

b

Attach buttonhole foot “A”.

c

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 44).

Select stitch 52 or 53.

d

Adjust the stitch width to the thickness of the

e

gimp thread.

Lower the presser foot lever and the

f

buttonhole lever, and then start sewing.

When sewing is finished, gently pull the gimp

g

thread to remove any slack.

3

• For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch width” (page 58).

z Before sewing buttonholes, check the stitch

length and width by sewing a trial buttonhole on a scrap piece of fabric.

Use a handsewing needle to pull the gimp

h

thread to the wrong side of the fabric, and then tie it.

Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing 93

UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

a

Select stitch 61.

Button sewing

d

Buttons can be sewn on with the sewing machine. Buttons with two or with four holes can be attached.

Measure the distance between the holes in the

a

button to be attached.

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page

51).

• Since the end of the thread will be tied off later, do not set the sewing machine for

Raise the presser foot lever, and then slide the

b

drop feed lever, located at the rear of the machine on the base, to (to the left as seen from the rear of the machine).

e

programmed-thread cutting.

Adjust the stitch width so that it is the same as the distance between the holes in the button.

Place the button in the position where it will

f

be sewn, and lower the presser foot lever.

a Drop feed lever (as seen from the rear of the

machine)

X The feed dogs are lowered.

Attach button-sewing foot “M”.

c

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 44).

a Button

X The button is held in place.

• When attaching four-hole buttons, first sew the two holes closest to you. Then, slide the button so that the needle goes into the two holes toward the rear of the sewing machine, and then sew them in the same way.

94

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

—

CAUTION

Memo

Turn the handwheel toward you

g

(counterclockwise) to check that the needle correctly goes into the two holes of the button.

If it seems as if the needle will hit the button, remeasure the distance between the holes in the button. Adjust the stitch width to the distance between the button holes.

● When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch the button, otherwise the needle may bend or break.

Start sewing.

h

Set the sewing speed controller to the left (so that the speed will be slow).

When you are finished attaching the button,

j

slide the drop feed lever to (to the right as seen from the rear of the machine) and turn the handwheel to raise the feed dogs.

z The feed dog position switch is normally set

to the right side (as seen from the rear of machine).

z The feed dogs come up when you start

sewing again.

■ Attaching a shank to a button

To sew the button with a shank, attach the button with space between it and the fabric, and then wind the thread by hand. This attaches the button securely.

Place the button into button-sewing foot “M”,

a

and then pull the shank lever toward you.

3

X The sewing machine automatically stops

after sewing reinforcement stitches.

• Do not press (“Thread Cutter” button).

• If additional strength is needed to secure the button, perform the button-sewing operation twice.

Use scissors to cut the upper thread and the

i

bobbin thread at the beginning of the stitching.

Pull the upper thread at the end of the stitching to the wrong side of the fabric, and then tie it with the bobbin thread.

a Shank lever

After sewing is finished, cut the upper thread

b

with plenty of excess, wind it around the thread between the button and the fabric, and then tie it to the upper thread at the beginning of the stitching.

Tie together the ends of the bobbin thread at the end and at the beginning of the stitching on the wrong side of the fabric.

Cut off any excess thread.

c

Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing 95

UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

I

1

2

3

Zipper Insertion

A zipper can be sewn in place.

Stitch Name Pattern Application

Straight stitch

(center

needle

position)

Attaching zippers

3

Sewing concealed seams and pintucks

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

3.5

(1/8)

0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

2.5

(3/32)

(1/64–3/16)

Presser

Foot

0.2–5.0

There are many methods for inserting zippers. The procedures for inserting a centered zipper and a side zipper are described below.

Using a basting stitch, continue sewing to the

c

Inserting a centered zipper

edge of the fabric.

Stitching is sewn on both pieces of fabric butted against each other.

a Basting stitching b Reverse stitches c Wrong side of fabric d End of zipper opening

a Right side of fabric b Stitching c End of zipper opening

Press open the seam allowance from the

d

wrong side of the fabric.

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

a

Sew straight stitches up to the zipper opening.

b

With the right sides of the fabric facing each other, sew reverse stitches after reaching the zipper opening.

• For details, refer to “Basic stitching” (page

85).

a Wrong side of fabric

96

— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

—

CAUTION

1

2

3

2

1

I

Align the seam with the center of the zipper,

e

and then baste the zipper in place.

a Wrong side of fabric b Basting stitching c Zipper

Remove about 5 cm (2 inches) from the end of

f

the basting on the outside.

2

3

a Wrong side of fabric b Zipper basting c Outside basting d 5 cm (2 inches)

4

1

Select stitch 3.

h

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page

51).

● When using zipper foot “I”, be sure to select the straight stitch (center needle position), and slowly turn the handwheel toward

you (counterclockwise) to check

that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If a different stitch is selected or the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.

Topstitch around the zipper.

i

1

3

Attach the presser foot holder to the right pin

g

of zipper foot “I”.

a Pin on the right side b Needle drop point

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 44).

2

4

a Stitching b Right side of fabric c Basting stitching d End of zipper opening

● When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch the zipper, otherwise the needle may bend or break.

Remove the basting stitching.

j

Zipper Insertion 97

UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —

1

2

3

1

2

1

I

Press open the seam allowance from the

d

Inserting a side zipper

wrong side of the fabric.

Stitching is visible on only one piece of fabric. Use this type of zipper application for side openings and back openings.

a Wrong side of fabric

Press the seam allowance so that the right side

e

(the side that will not be stitched) has an extra 3 mm (1/8 inch).

a Stitching b Right side of fabric c End of zipper opening

The following procedure will describe how to stitch on the left side, as shown in the illustration.

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

a

Sew straight stitches up to the zipper opening.

b

With the right sides of the fabric facing each other, sew reverse stitches after reaching the zipper opening.

• For details, refer to “Basic stitching” (page

85).

Using a basting stitch, continue sewing to the

c

edge of the fabric.

a Basting stitching b Reverse stitches c Wrong side of fabric d End of zipper opening

a Wrong side of fabric b 3 mm (1/8 inch)

Align the zipper teeth with the pressed edge of

f

the fabric having the extra 3 mm (1/8 inch), and then baste or pin the zipper in place.

a Zipper teeth b Basting stitching

Attach the presser foot holder to the right pin

g

of zipper foot “I”.

If the stitching will be sewn on the right side, attach the presser foot holder to the left pin of the zipper foot.

98

a Pin on the right side b Needle drop point

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 44).

Brother Innov-is 1250D, SB8000, SE1800 Operation Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual