BoonDocker 800-1000 Turbo User Manual

M8 / M1000 Arctic Cat Turbo (Auxiliary Injector)

EFI Control Box Instructions

Before you begin, please read all the instructions below and check kit contents.

Kit Contents:

Quality check by:
___1 Control Box
___1 EFI harness
___2 black connectors
___1 battery/jumper connector
___1 Reusable Zip Tie

Arctic Cat Wiring Harness Connector Assembly Instructions

The two black connectors must be installed on the Control Box EFI harness as shown below before continuing with the
installation.

All Models: Connect a test light to the chassis ground. Unplug a stock injector. Connect the other connector of the
test light to one of the contacts on the stock injector connector. Pull the starter rope and watch for the test light to
come on. If there is no light, try the other contact terminal. The terminal that produces light is positive.
After you have determined which of the terminals is positive, insert the red wire of the BoonDocker harness into the
black connector to correspond with the positive wire on the factory connector.

Insert the terminals into the connectors by following the steps below:

1. Non-1000 connector: Hold the black connector

with its locking tab up. Insert the terminal with its
alignment tabs up (see picture).

Note: Look inside black connector to verify that the
lock tab inside will mate with the slot in the terminal
(below guide tabs).

2. Push the terminal into the black connector. The

terminal will go part way into the connector and stop.

1000 connector: Orient the black connector and pin
terminal as shown in picture.

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website: www.boondockers.com - email: [e-mail]

Revised 03-14-07 Page 1 of 18

3. Using needle-nose pliers, pull the terminal the rest

of the way into the connector. You should feel the
terminal lock into place (you will feel a slight

“pop”). The rubber seal should be flush with the

end of the connector. Use care to not gouge the
terminals.

4. If a terminal must be removed, use pliers to carefully

push the terminal out of the connector. The terminal
can usually be re-inserted one more time. Don’t do this
unless absolutely necessary! The terminal tabs need to
be pried up slightly before re-inserting. See photo of
terminal at right for tab location. Use a 1.2mm or

0.050” jeweler’s screwdriver to pry with. Check to be

sure that the wire can resist a slight tug without coming
out.

I. Theory of Operation:

The Boondocker Control Box connects between the sled’s ECU (Electronic Control Unit) and the fuel injectors. It does

not reprogram or communicate with the ECU. It only modifies the existing signals sent from the ECU to the fuel injectors.
By modifying only these signals, it is possible to make fuel changes while keeping the stock fuel map. This means the
ECU can still compensate for engine speed, throttle position, barometric pressure, engine temperature, air temperature, etc.

The Control Box can reduce fuel or increase fuel amounts for certain rpm ranges and load conditions. This is done by
changing its fuel adjustment settings by using the buttons and LCD display. As with tuning a carburetor, it is possible to
go too rich or too lean!

Note: Be sure you know how to properly tune an engine before you adjust the fuel settings! Use of EGTs and plug and
piston readings are highly recommended when tuning.

IMPORTANT NOTES – READ THIS!

Note 1: We recommend using Dielectric Grease on all connections to help prevent corrosion on the terminals.

Note 2: Avoid exposing the Control Box to environments where static charges may exist. For example, quickly

removing a sled cover from the sled in a dry environment can create a static spark that will damage the box (especially if
box is mounted on handlebars).

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website: www.boondockers.com - email: [e-mail]

Revised 03-14-07 Page 2 of 18

Note 3: The Control Box is sealed – do not take it apart or it will no longer be sealed. The Control Box is designed to be

splash-proof. Do not submerge or subject the box to high-pressure spray. During long periods of non-use it is
recommended that you do not leave the control box exposed to the elements.

Note 4: If the headlights have been removed (hood is removed or aftermarket hood is used), the electrical system can

cause interference with the Control Box. In some cases, the sled’s computer may become damaged! We recommend
and sell a 100W power resistor that can be used to place a sufficient load on the electrical system to avoid this condition.

Note 5: Always use Resistor Spark Plugs! Non-resistor plugs will cause electrical interference with the Control Box.

II. Control Box Harness Connectors

The Control Box will plug directly into the factory injector connectors. There is also an unused connector for the optional
Nitrous wiring harness or for the battery jumper (see below).

Note: We recommend using Dielectric Grease on all connections to help prevent corrosion on the terminals.

III. Battery / Jumper Connector

The supplied Battery/Jumper Connector has a dual purpose. It
can function as a battery connector in order to supply voltage to
the Control Box when the engine is not running, and it can
function as a jumper in order to bypass the Control Box.

1. Battery Connector

The Control Box is designed to operate without a battery – the
box will turn itself on whenever power is applied for the fuel
injectors. However, a 9-volt battery (not included) can be

plugged into the box through the Control Box’s connectors with

the supplied battery / jumper connector in order to operate the
box without the sled running. This battery connector plugs into
the Control Box’s nitrous connector (refer to picture below).
Secure the battery to the connector with a zip tie in order to
provide a strain relief for the 9-volt connector. The battery can
also be secured to part of the harness if it is to be used on the sled while it is running.

The battery connector can be left plugged in during engine operation, but the nitrous harness (if used) cannot be plugged
into the Control Box. The battery will eventually drain if left connected to the box, so it is best to disconnect the battery
when not in use.

2. Jumper Connector

The Battery/Jumper connector can also be used to bypass the Control Box in case the sled needs to be run without the
Control Box. Disconnect the Control Box from the EFI harness and plug in the Jumper connector - the injectors are now
connected directly to the sled’s ECU.

IV. Box Mounting Locations

BoonDocker – 2379 Heyrend Way Idaho Falls, Idaho 83402 – [phone]

website: www.boondockers.com - email: [e-mail]

Revised 03-14-07 Page 3 of 18

The best mounting location is on the dash or on the handlebars (if pad is removed) using the supplied Velcro strips. Before
applying the adhesive strips, thoroughly clean each surface (rubbing alcohol works well). It is also best if each surface is
room temperature.

Mounting the box under the hood is less desirable (LCD is more likely to have condensation), but if it is necessary, keep
the box away from excess heat (like the exhaust), away from any moving parts, and away from the ignition coil.

Note: The location on the plate in front of the steering shaft, above the exhaust pipe gets very hot! We DO NOT
recommend this location.

V. EFI Wiring Harness

The EFI harness plugs into the stock sled’s injector connectors as follows:

1. Disconnect the stock harness connector from each fuel injector. Note which connector goes to which injector.

2. Determine where the control box will be mounted and how the harness will be routed. Route the harness so the

injector connectors end up near the sled’s fuel injectors.
Note: If the control box is to be mounted on the handlebars, it is best to have the harness follow the routing of the fuel
line to the fuel rail (inside of the oil bottle) instead of following the sled’s harness around the outside of the oil bottle.

3. There is a left (PTO) and right (MAG) pair of

connectors for each injector (see picture). The
shorter length connectors go to the MAG side, and
the longer length connectors go the PTO side.

4. Plug the gray Control Box connector (female) to the

sled’s fuel injector, and the black connector to the

sled’s gray injector connector. Do this for both the

MAG and PTO sides.

Note: Be sure the black harness connectors latch

securely to the gray injector connectors. This may require pushing the latch on the gray connector down over the tab
on the black connector.

5. Connect the Control Box harness ground wire to chassis ground, not the engine ground! A good ground connection

is extremely important!

6. Use zip ties to keep the harness away from moving parts. Use reflective heat tape if the harness must be routed near

hot items such as the exhaust Note: heat-tape may be used to protect the harness and connectors near the fuel

rail from the hot exhaust pipe.

VI. Turbo Auxiliary Injector/Transducer Wiring Harness

Note where each connection goes in the picture below:

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Revised 03-14-07 Page 4 of 18

Install the Yellow wire on the Turbo Harness onto the Yellow Exhaust Valve Servo Position Sensor wire as follows:

1. Locate the yellow wire in the bundle of wires that come from the exhaust valve srvo motor on the PTO (left) side of
the sled down by the gas tank.

2. Note on using the supplied Crimp/Heat-shrink connector:
The supplied Crimp/Heat-Shrink Connector, if installed correctly, will provide a reliable connection. After the
wires are cut and the insulation is stripped, the connector is crimped onto the wires. Be sure to use the correct
crimping tool. DO NOT USE A CRIMPER THAT PUNCHES INTO THE INSULATION. The connector is then
sealed by the heat-shrinking process. Adhesive inside the connector will melt and flow around the wires which will
seal out moisture.

3. Use the supplied blue crimp/heat-shrink connector to connect the yellow wire from the Turbo harness to the yellow
wire on the sled harness as follows. Cut the Yellow wire on the sled harness, leaving enough length on both ends to
work with. Strip the insulation about 1/4” from the end of each wire. Twist one of the yellow wires that was cut
with the yellow wire from the Turbo harness together, insert into one end of the connector, and crimp. Insert the
other yellow wire into the other end of the connector and crimp. (Two wires will go into one end of the splice
connector, one wire into the other end)

4. After crimping, pull on the wires to be sure they are securely crimped. Then apply heat to shrink the connector’s
insulation tightly around the wires.

BoonDocker – 2379 Heyrend Way Idaho Falls, Idaho 83402 – [phone]

website: www.boondockers.com - email: [e-mail]

Revised 03-14-07 Page 5 of 18

The Fuel Pump and Oil Pump Driver Box (and optional O2 sensor) plugs into the Fuel/Oil Pump harness as shown below:

Splice the Red wire on the Fuel/Oil Pump Harness into the sled’s main power wire (Red with Black tracer) using the

supplied blue crimp/heat-shrink connector as follows:

1. Locate the heavy Red/Black wire that originates from the CCU (aluminum box with fins) and goes to where the ECU

harness joins in. The sleeve may be peeled back for easier access (see picture below).

2. Cut the Red/Black wire, leaving

enough length on both ends to
work with. Strip the insulation

about 1/4” from the end of each

wire. Twist the red wire and the
heavy red/black wires together,
insert into one end of the
connector, and crimp. Insert the
other red/black wire into the other
end of the connector and crimp.
(Two wires will go into one end of
the splice connector, one wire into
the other end).

3. After crimping, pull on the wires

to be sure they are securely
crimped. Then apply heat to

shrink the connector’s insulation

tightly around the wires.

It is critical that all connections are correct for the system to work properly. Do not modify or change anything on this
harness unless directed to do so by Boondocker.

BoonDocker – 2379 Heyrend Way Idaho Falls, Idaho 83402 – [phone]

website: www.boondockers.com - email: [e-mail]

Revised 03-14-07 Page 6 of 18