The information in this workbook applies to the current line
of BERNINA Overlockers.
Note: Some exercises apply
only to certain models
equipped with the feature
being highlighted.
2 7/01/16
Page 3
BERNINA
Presser Feet & Accessories
Overlocker Workbook 2
The following presser feet and accessories are available for BERNINA overlockers except the L 220. Some
attachments are included with the purchase of the overlocker and others are optional depending on the
model. Each presser foot snaps onto the shank of the overlocker, easy to change without the use of additional tools. The Gathering Attachment, the Guide for the Multi-Purpose Foot, and the Right & Left Seam
Guides are attachments used in conjunction with a presser foot.
3 7/01/16
Page 4
BERNINA
Elasticator: Attaching Elastic
Overlocker Workbook 2
Fabric:Medium weight cotton, 3” x 14” and
12” length of ½” nylon or cotton braid elastic
Needle: 75/11 Stretch or Ballpoint
Thread: 2 cones of overlocker thread and 2 cones of Woolly Nylon
Presser Foot: Elasticator
Stitch: 4-thread overlock
Thread the overlocker for a 4-thread overlock using Woolly Nylon in
the upper and lower loopers. Adjust settings as directed below.
Attach the Elasticator to the overlocker.
Locate and raise the roller guide in the front of the presser foot. Turn
the handwheel to lower the needles. (This also lowers the feed dog.)
Raise the presser foot and insert the elastic through the slot and under
the presser foot until it touches the needles.
Lower the presser foot and overlock a few stitches to catch and
straighten the elastic along the right edge of the slot. Turn the handwheel to lower the needles.
Lower the roller guide. Using the small screwdriver, loosen the set
screw on the front of the elasticator and adjust the guide plate to the
width of the elastic; tighten the set screw.
Locate the pressure adjustment set screw (on the top of the roller
guide) and turn the screw counterclockwise to completely loosen the
pressure on the roller.
Place the fabric under the presser foot and begin stitching. Slowly
tighten the pressure adjustment set screw to increase the pressure
on the roller and stretch the elastic. Note: Do not over tighten the
screw. Excessive pressure on the elastic will bind the fabric.
Stitch the elastic onto the fabric letting the presser foot stretch the
elastic for you.
Return all settings to normal.
Upper Looper 3-5 3-5
Lower Looper 3-5 3-5
Left Needle 3-5 3-5
Right Needle 3-5 3-5
Stitch Length 2.5 2.5
Cutting Width 2-3 6
Suggested Settings
Others L 460/L 450
Differential FeedN 1
4 7/01/16
Page 5
BERNINA
Overlocker Workbook 2
Fabric: Medium weight cotton, 3” x 14”
Needle: 80/12 Universal
Thread: 4 cones of overlocker thread
Presser Foot: Gathering Foot
Stitch: 4-thread overlock
Gathering Foot: Simple Gathering
Thread the overlocker for a 4-thread overlock. Adjust settings
as directed below, starting with a stitch length of 2.5mm and
needle tensions of 5.
Attach the Gathering Foot to the overlocker.
Using a fabric marker, divide fabric into 3 sections along one
14” edge.
Turn the handwheel to lower the needles. (This also lowers
the feed dog.) Insert the fabric under the Gathering Foot, up
against the needles. The fabric should be on the stitch plate.
Lower the presser foot and overlock to the first mark.
Adjust the stitch length to 4mm and overlock to the second
mark.
Increase the tension on both needles to 7. Overlock to the end
of the fabric.
Thread the overlocker for a 4-thread overlock. Adjust settings as
directed below.
Attach the Gathering Foot to the Overlocker.
Raise the presser foot and insert the 14” strip of fabric (right side
up) under the Gathering Foot with the fabric on the stitch plate.
Lower presser foot. Sew several stitches until the fabric is under
the needles.
Turn the handwheel to lower the needles. (This also lowers the
feed dog.) Place the 8” strip of fabric (right side down) on top of
the flap on the Gathering Foot, touching the needles.
Overlock the two strips together; the lower strip will gather as
you sew.
Return all settings to normal.
Suggested Settings
Upper Looper 3-5 3-5
Lower Looper 3-5 3-5
Left Needle 3-5 3-5
Right Needle 3-5 3-5
Stitch Length 2.5 2.5
Cutting Width 2-3 6
Differential Feed N 1
Others L 460/L 450
6 7/01/16
Page 7
BERNINA
Multi-Purpose Foot: Piping
Overlocker Workbook 2
Fabric:Medium weight cotton bias strip, 2” x 8”
12” length of ⅜” cotton filler cord
Needle: 80/12 Universal
Thread: 4 cones of overlocker thread
Presser Foot: Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide
Stitch: 4-thread overlock
Set the overlocker for a 4-thread overlock. Adjust settings as
directed below.
Attach the Multi-Purpose Foot and Guide following the directions
in the instruction manual for the Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide.
Note: 700D and 800DL need the Attachment Base to accommodate the Guide.
Insert the filler cord into the guide from front to back.
Raise the Multi-Purpose Foot and insert the filler cord into the
guide on the left side of the foot. Feed the filler cord under the
foot. Lower the foot and overlock a few stitches to stabilize the
cord.
Wrap the bias strip around the plastic portion of the guide under
the wire that goes over the guide.
Overlock slowly, guiding the fabric and the cord simultaneously;
continue stitching until the cord is covered. It is now ready to be
inserted into a seam as it is sewn.
Suggested Settings
Upper Looper 3-5 3-5
Lower Looper 3-5 3-5
Left Needle 3-5 3-5
Right Needle 3-5 3-5
Stitch Length 2.5 2.5
Cutting Width 2-3 6
Differential Feed N 1
Others L 460/L 450
7 7/01/16
Page 8
BERNINA
Multi-Purpose Foot: Inserted Piping
Overlocker Workbook 2
Fabric:Medium weight cotton, 3” x 8”, 2 pieces
Medium weight cotton bias strip, 2” x 8” 12” length of ⅜” cotton filler cord
Needle: 80/12 Universal
Thread: 4 cones of overlocker thread
Presser Foot: Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide
Stitch: 4-thread overlock
Set the overlocker for a 4-thread overlock. Adjust settings as
directed below.
Attach the Multi-Purpose Foot and Guide following the directions in
the instruction manual for the Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide.
Note: 700D and 800DL need the Attachment Base to accommodate
the Guide.
Place one of the 3” x 8” pieces of fabric under the foot, right side up.
Wrap the bias strip around the cord and place the wrapped cord in
the groove under the foot and on top of the other fabric.
Position the second piece of fabric, right side down, on top of the
first with the wrapped piping between them.
Overlock, making the covered cord and attaching it to the fabric strip
in one stitching.
Press the seam allowance to the wrong side of the fabric strip.
.
Suggested Settings
Upper Looper 3-5 3-5
Lower Looper 3-5 3-5
Left Needle 3-5 3-5
Right Needle 3-5 3-5
Stitch Length 2.5 2.5
Cutting Width 2-3 6
Differential Feed N 1
Others L 460/L 450
8 7/01/16
Page 9
BERNINA
Multi-Purpose Foot + Gathering
Overlocker Workbook 2
Fabric:Medium weight cotton, 3” x 18”
Medium weight cotton bias strip, 2” x 8” 12” length of ⅜” cotton filler cord
Set the overlocker for a 4-thread overlock. Adjust settings as
directed below.
Attach the Multi-Purpose Foot only (no guide), following the
directions in the instruction manual for the Multi-Purpose Foot
with Guide.
Slip the Gathering Attachment on to the fixing screw and metal
post directly behind the fixing screw. Hint: Place the horseshoe
-shaped slot over the screw, then rotate the attachment to lock
over the metal post. Tighten fixing screw. Note: 700D and
800DL also need the Attachment Base.
Wrap the bias strip around the cord and place the wrapped
cord in the groove under the foot with the raw edges to the
right.
Take 2 or 3 stitches into the fabric and lower the needles into
the fabric.
Place the 3” x 18” fabric under the Gathering Attachment and
next to the needles.
Overlock, covering the cord, gathering the fabric strip and
seaming all layers together.
Set the overlocker for a 3-thread flatlock using the right needle.
Adjust settings as directed below.
Fabric will not be cut for this technique and the upper knife needs
to be disengaged. On the 1300MDC, 1150MDA, 800DL & 700D,
raise the upper knife and lock it in the “up” position to disengage.
On the L 460 and L 450, disengage the knife by opening sewing
table and looper cover; press knob in and turn clockwise until knife
engages at lower position.
Attach the Multi-Purpose Foot only (no guide), following the
directions in the instruction leaflet for the Multi-Purpose Foot
with Guide.
Lay the pre-strung beads in the channel on the right side of the
foot, threading them under the rear guide (see instruction leaflet
for the Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide).
Turn the handwheel to encase the first beads inside the thread
chain.
Fold the fabric in half to 2” x 8” and place the fabric under the foot
with the fold halfway between the needle and the stitch finger or
against the right seam guide.
Slowly flatlock the beads to the folded fabric.
Gently pull the fabric flat.
To reset and activate the knife:
On the 1300MDC, 1150MDA, 800DL & 700D, rotate the knife to
the down position until it clicks. On the 1300MDC, there is a button
to depress to lower the arm down before rotating the blade. On the
L460 & L 450, press the knob in and turn counter-clockwise until
knife engages at the upper position.
Suggested Settings
Upper Looper 3-5 4
Lower Looper 7-9 7
Left Needle NA NA
Right Needle 1-2 2.5
Stitch Length 1.75 2.5
Cutting Width 2-3 7
Differential Feed N 1
Others L 460/L 450
10 7/01/16
Page 11
BERNINA
Blindstitch Foot: Blind Hem
Overlocker Workbook 2
Fabric: Cotton jersey, 6” x 6”
Needle: 80/12 Universal (ballpoint may be used if needed)
Thread: 3 cones of overlocker thread
Presser Foot: Blindstitch Foot
Stitch: 3-thread flatlock (narrow)
Set the overlocker for a narrow 3-thread flatlock (right needle);
adjust the settings as directed below.
Attach the Blindstitch Foot.
Fold the fabric under for a 1½” blind hem and then turn the body
of the project back so that ¼” - ½” extends beyond the fold as in a
conventional blind hem. Place the fabric under the foot.
Adjust the fabric guide so the needle just catches the fold in the
stitching.
Stitch the hem, guiding the fold of the fabric against the guide.
Press the hem.
Suggested Settings
Upper Looper 3-5 4
Lower Looper 7-9 7
Left Needle NA NA
Right Needle 1-2 2.5
Stitch Length 1.75 2.5
Cutting Width 2-3 7
Differential Feed N 1
Others L 460/L 450
11 7/01/16
Page 12
BERNINA
Blindstitch Foot: Decorative Tucks
Overlocker Workbook 2
Fabric: Medium weight cotton, 6” x 6”
Needle: 80/12 Universal
Thread: 3 cones of overlocker thread
Presser Foot: Blindstitch Foot
Stitch: 3-thread rolled hem
Set the overlocker for a 3-thread rolled hem (right needle); adjust the settings as directed below.
Attach the Blindstitch Foot.
Pull the Stitch Selection Lever toward you.
Fabric will not be cut for this technique and the upper knife
needs to be disengaged. On the 1300MDC, 1150MDA, 800DL
& 700D, raise the upper knife and lock it in the “up” position to
disengage. On the L 460 and L 450, disengage the knife by
opening sewing table and looper cover; press knob in and turn
clockwise until knife engages at lower position.
Move the fabric guide just to the left of the knife line on the
stitch plate.
Mark three lines 1” apart across the fabric.
Fold the fabric wrong sides together along one marked line and
place the fabric under the presser foot with the fold against the
guide.
Overlock the tuck; repeat for the two remaining marked lines.
Return the Stitch Selection Lever to the normal stitching position.
To reset and activate the knife:
On the 1300MDC, 1150MDA, 800DL & 700D, rotate the knife
to the down position until it clicks. On the 1300MDC, there is a
button to depress to lower the arm down before rotating the
blade. On the L460 & L 450, press the knob in and turn counter
-clockwise until knife engages at the upper position.
Suggested Settings
Upper Looper 3-5 3-5
Lower Looper 7-9 7-8
Left Needle N/A N/A
Right Needle 3-5 3.5
Stitch Length 1-1.5 1-1.5
Others L 460/L 450
Cutting Width 2-3 5
Differential Feed N 1
12 7/01/16
Page 13
BERNINA
Blindstitch Foot: Lace to Lace
Overlocker Workbook 2
Fabric: Flat edging lace, 2 pieces, 6” each
Needle: 70/10 Sharp or Microtex
Thread: 3 cones of overlocker thread
Presser Foot: Blindstitch Foot
Stitch: 3-thread rolled hem
Set the overlocker for a 3-thread rolled hem(right needle); adjust
the settings as directed below.
Attach the Blindstitch Foot.
Pull the Stitch Selection Lever toward you.
Raise the upper knife and lock it in the “up” position. You will not
cut fabric with this technique.
Move the fabric guide just to the left of the knife line on the stitch
plate.
Stiffen the lace with spray starch or fabric stiffener.
With right sides together, place the headers of the laces under
the
presser foot against the guide.
Overlock the laces together.
Gently pull the lace flat and press.
Suggested Settings
Upper Looper 3-5 3-5
Lower Looper 7-9 7-8
Left Needle N/A N/A
Right Needle 3-5 3.5
Stitch Length 1-1.5 1-1.5
Cutting Width 2-3 5
Differential Feed N 1
Others L 460/L 450
13 7/01/16
Page 14
BERNINA
Cording Foot: Shaped Edge
Overlocker Workbook 2
Fabric:Medium weight fabric, 3” x 18”, cut on bias and
Nylon fishing line, 15-20# test, 24”
Needle: 80/12 Universal
Thread: 2 cones of overlocker thread and 1 cone Woolly Nylon
Presser Foot: Cording Foot
Stitch: 3-thread rolled hem
Set the overlocker for a 3-thread rolled hem (right needle) with
Woolly Nylon in the upper looper. Adjust settings as directed below.
Pull the Stitch Selection Lever towards you.
Attach the Cording Foot.
Following the directions in the instruction leaflet for the Cording
Foot, insert the nylon fishing line through the guides.
Place the fabric under the presser foot and overlock along one
18” edge, stretching the fabric edge as you sew.
Return stitch length and thread tension levers to normal.
Return the Stitch Selection Lever to normal sewing position.
Suggested Settings
Upper Looper 3-5
Lower Looper 7-9
Left Needle N/A
Right Needle 3-5
Stitch Length 1-1.5
Cutting Width 2-3
Differential Feed N
1300MDC,
1150MDA, 800DL,
700D
14 7/01/16
Page 15
BERNINA
Cording Foot: Wired Edge
Overlocker Workbook 2
Fabric:Medium weight fabric, 3” x 18” and
28 gauge floral wire, two 24” lengths
Needle: 80/12 Universal
Thread: 2 cones of overlocker thread and 1 cone Woolly Nylon
Presser Foot: Cording Foot
Stitch: 3-thread rolled hem
Set the overlocker for a 3-thread rolled hem (right needle) with
Woolly Nylon in the upper looper. Adjust settings as directed below.
Pull the Stitch Selection Lever towards you.
Attach the Cording Foot.
Following the direction in the instruction leaflet for
the Cording Foot, insert the wire through the guides.
Place the fabric under the presser foot and overlock
along one 18” edge, feeding the wire through the
foot as you overlock.
Use wire cutters to cut the wire. Do not use the overlocker
knives.
Repeat for the other 18” edge of the fabric.
Roll hem the short ends of the strip without inserting wire
into the stitch.
Return stitch length and thread tension levers to normal.
Return the Stitch Selection Lever to normal sewing position.
Secure the thread tails with a seam sealant. When the sealant is
dry, cut the thread tails. Use wire cutters to trim the wire, if
needed.
Tie the wired fabric into a bow.
.
Suggested Settings
Upper Looper 3-5
Lower Looper 7-9
Left Needle N/A
Right Needle 3-5
Stitch Length 1-1.5
1300MDC,
1150MDA, 800DL,
700D
Cutting Width 2-3
Differential Feed N
15 7/01/16
Page 16
BERNINA
4-thread/3-Needle Coverstitch
Overlocker Workbook 2
Fabric: Medium weight cotton, 4” x 8”
Needle: 80/12 Sharp or JLx2
Thread: 4 cones overlocker thread
Presser Foot: Coverstitch Foot
Stitch: 4-thread/3-needle coverstitch
Set the overlocker for a 4-thread/3-needle coverstitch. Adjust settings
as directed below. Note: Model 1300MDC needs to be converted from
overlock mode to cover and chain mode.
Attach the Coverstitch presser foot. Center the fabric under the presser
foot. Lift the presser foot and place the fabric completely under the foot.
Turn the handwheel clockwise for the first stitch.
Overlock to the end of the fabric.
At the end of the stitching, turn the handwheel counterclockwise until
the needles are at their lowest position. Then turn the handwheel clockwise until the needles are at their highest position to release the
threads from the looper.
Raise the presser foot and carefully remove the work. Note: At the
end of the stitching, turn the handwheel counterclockwise (toward you)
until the needle is at its lowest position. Then turn the handwheel
clockwise (away from you) until the needle is at its highest position
to release the thread from the looper.
Cut the thread using the thread cutter.
Adjust settings as necessary; stitch a second row of coverstitch.
Suggested Settings
Left Needle 3.2 3-5
Center Needle 5 3-5
Right Needle 4 3-5
Looper M M
Stitch Length 3.5 3
Differential Feed N N
1300MDC L 220
16 7/01/16
Page 17
BERNINA
Overlocker Workbook 2
Fabric: Medium weight cotton, 4” x 8”
Needle: 80/12 Sharp or JLx2
Thread: 3 cones of overlocker thread
Presser Foot: Coverstitch Foot
Stitch: 3-thread/2-needle coverstitch (wide)
Set the overlocker for a wide 2-needle coverstitch using the left
and the right needles. Adjust settings as directed below. Note:
Model 1300MDC needs to be converted from overlock mode to
cover and chain mode. .
Attach the Coverstitch presser foot.
Fold up a 2” hem along the 8” edge of the fabric. Glue stick
or pin in place. The coverstitch hem attachment may be used on
the 1300MDC.
Using the markings on the stitch plate as a guide, place the
fabric under the needles with the fold to the right of the presser
foot, with the right side of the fabric up and the hem/wrong side
down.
Coverstitch the hem in place.
Coverstitch Hem
Suggested Settings
Left Needle 3-5 3-5
Center Needle NA NA
Right Needle 3-5 3-5
Looper M M
Stitch Length 3.5 3
Differential Feed N N
1300MDC L 220
17 7/01/16
Page 18
BERNINA
3-thread/2-needle coverstitch
Overlocker Workbook 2
Fabric: Medium weight cotton, 6” x 6”
Needle: 80/12 Sharp or JLx2
Thread: 3 cones overlocker thread
Presser Foot: Coverstitch Foot
Stitch: 3-thread/2-needle coverstitch (wide)
Set the overlocker for a wide 2-needle coverstitch using the left and
the right needles. Adjust settings as directed below. Note: Model
1300MDC needs to be converted from overlock mode to cover and
chain mode.
Attach the Coverstitch presser foot. Center the fabric under the
presser foot. Lift the presser foot and place the fabric completely
under the foot.
Turn the handwheel clockwise for the first stitch.
Overlock to the end of the fabric.
At the end of the stitching, turn the handwheel counterclockwise
until the needles are at their lowest position. Then turn the handwheel Clockwise until the needles are at their highest position to
release the threads from the looper.
Raise the presser foot and carefully remove the work. Note: At the
end of the stitching, turn the handwheel counterclockwise (toward
you) until the needle is at its lowest position. Then turn the handwheel clockwise (away from you) until the needle is at its highest
position to release the thread from the looper.
Cut the thread using the thread cutter.
Turn the fabric over and stitch another line of coverstitching to show
both sides of the stitch on the right side of the fabric.
Suggested Settings
Left Needle 3-5 3-5
Center Needle NA NA
Right Needle 3-5 3-5
Looper M M
Stitch Length 3.5 3
Differential Feed N N
1300MDC L 220
18 7/01/16
Page 19
BERNINA
Overlocker Workbook 2
Fabric: 2 pieces medium weight cotton, each 4” x 8”
Needle: 80/12 Sharp or JLx2
Thread: 2 cones of overlocker thread
Presser Foot: Chainstitch Foot
Stitch: Chainstitch
Thread the overlocker for a chainstitch. Adjust settings as directed below. Note: Model 1300MDC needs to be converted from overlock mode to cover and chain mode.
Attach the Chainstitch presser foot. Note: Model 1300MDC has
an exclusive combination presser foot for overlock and chain
stitch; model L 220 has an optional chain stitch foot or the
Standard presser foot may be used.
With right sides together, place the fabric under the needles.
Align the raw edges with the ⅝” mark on the stitch plate.
Turn the handwheel clockwise for the first stitch.
Overlock to the end of the fabric.
Overlock 1-2 additional straight or gently curved lines of chain
stitching.
Raise the presser foot and carefully remove the work. Cut the
thread using the thread cutter.
Chainstitch
Suggested Settings
Left Needle NA NA
Center Needle NA NA
Right Needle 3-5 3-5
Looper M M
Stitch Length 2.5 2.5
Differential Feed N N
1300MDC L 220
19 7/01/16
Page 20
BERNINA
Overlocker Workbook 2
Fabric:Medium weight denim, 4” x 8” and
Tear-away stabilizer, 4” x 8”
Needle: 80/12 Sharp or JLx2
Thread: 1 cone of overlocker thread
Decorative thread such as 1 cone Yenmet metallic
thread or 1 cone Pearl Crown Rayon thread by YLI
Thread the overlocker for a chain stitch using the decorative
thread in the looper. Adjust settings as directed below. Note:
Model 1300MDC needs to be converted from overlock mode to
cover and chain mode.
Slightly loosen the tension on the chain stitch looper.
Attach the Chainstitch presser foot. Note: Model 1300MDC has
an exclusive combination presser foot for overlock and chain
stitch; model L 220 has an optional chain stitch foot or the Standard presser foot may be used.
Place the stabilizer against the wrong side of the denim. Place
the denim right side down under the presser foot; the stabilizer
will be on top.
Chainstitch a curved line across the fabric. Turn the fabric over to
see the decorative stitching on the right side.
To increase the amount of decorative thread that shows, adjust
the stitch length to 3mm or 4mm. Changing the stitch length as
you overlock will vary the decorative chain stitch effect. Always
use a stitch length of at least 2.5mm.
Stitch several more lines of decorative chain stitching across the
fabric, using other decorative threads as desired.
Decorative Chainstitch
Suggested Settings
Left Needle NA NA
Center Needle NA NA
Right Needle 3-5 3-5
Looper M M
1300MDC L 220
Stitch Length 2.5+ 2.5+
Differential Feed N N
20 7/01/16
Page 21
BERNINA
Overlocker Workbook 2
4-thread overlock
21 7/01/16
Page 22
BERNINA
Overlocker Workbook 2
3-thread flatlock
22 7/01/16
Page 23
BERNINA
Overlocker Workbook 2
3-thread rolled hem
23 7/01/16
Page 24
BERNINA
Overlocker Workbook 2
4-thread/3-needle coverstitch
24 7/01/16
Page 25
BERNINA
Overlocker Workbook 2
3-thread/2-needle coverstitch
25 7/01/16
Page 26
BERNINA
Overlocker Workbook 2
2-thread/1-needle chainstitch
26 7/01/16
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