Bernette 25, 20 User Manual

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Instruction Manual
Safety Instructions
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IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS
When using an electrical appliance, basic safety precautions should always be followed, including the following:
Read all instructions before using this sewing machine. Keep the instruction at a suitable place close to the machine, and hand it over if you give the machine to a third party.
DANGER
To reduce the risk of electric shock:
1. An appliance should never be left unattended when plugged in.
2. Always unplug this appliance from the electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.
WARNING
To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons:
1. This appliance is not intended for use by persons (including children) with reduced physical, sensory or mental capabilities, or lack of experience and knowledge, unless they have been given supervision or instruction concerning use of the appliance by a person responsible for their safety.
2. Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when this appliance is used by or near children and infirm persons.
3. Use this appliance only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.
4. Children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with the appliance.
5. Never operate this appliance if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the appliance to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.
6. Never operate the appliance with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the sewing machine and foot controller free from accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth.
7. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the sewing machine needle.
8. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.
9. Do not use bent needles.
10. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break.
11. Switch the sewing machine off ("O") when making any adjustments in the needle area, such as threading needle, changing needle, threading bobbin, or changing presser foot, and the like.
12. Always unplug sewing machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when making any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual (pull power plug).
13. Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
14. Do not use outdoors.
15. Do not operate where aerosol spray products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.
16. To disconnect, turn all controls to the off ("O") position, then remove plug from outlet.
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Safety Instructions
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17. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord.
18. If the supply cord fixed with foot controller is damaged, it must be replaced by the manufacturer or its service agent or a similar qualified person in order to avoid a hazard.
19. Never place anything on the foot control.
20. This sewing machine is provided with double insulation (except U.S.A / Canada). Use only identical replacement parts. See instructions for Servicing of double-insulated products.
SERVICING OF DOUBLE-INSULATED PRODUCTS
In a double-insulated product, two systems of insulation are provided instead of grounding. No grounding means is provided on a double-insulated product nor should a means for grounding be added to the product. Servicing a double-insulated product requires extreme care and knowledge of the system and should only be done by qualified service personnel. Replacement parts for a double-insulated product must be identical to those parts in the product. A double insulated product is marked with the words "DOUBLE INSULATION" or "DOUBLE INSULATED".
The symbol may also be marked on the product.
SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS
This sewing machine is intended for household use only.
ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION
BERNINA is committed to the protection of the environment. We strive to minimize the environmental impact of our products by continuously improving product design and our technology of manufacturing.
Do not dispose of electrical appliances as unsorted municipal waste, use separate collection facilities.
Contact your local government for information regarding the collection systems available.
If electrical appliances are disposed of in landfills or dumps, hazardous substances can leak into the groundwater and get into the food chain, damaging your health and well-being.
When replacing old appliances with new ones, the retailer is legally obligated to take back your old appliance for disposal at least for free of charge.
LED RADIATION
Do not view directly with optical instruments Class 1M LED product
Safety Instructions
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Attention:
This sewing machine is intended for household use only. If used intensively or commercially, regular cleaning and especially attentive care is required. Signs of wear and tear owing to intensive or commercial use are not covered automatically, even if they occur within the warranty period. The decision on how to deal with any such cases rests with the local authorised servicing staff.
All rights reserved
For technical and product improvement reasons, the sewing computer's features, parts and accessory are subject to unannounced changes and alterations at any time. The accessory included can differ from country to country.
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Contents
Safety Instructions 1
Contents 4
Machine Overview 5
Detail of the Machine 5
Accessories - model 20 6
Accessories - model 25 7
Machine Setup 8
Connecting the Machine 8
Foot Control 8
Sewing Table 9
Winding the Bobbin 10
Inserting the Bobbin 12
Threading the Upper Thread 13
Needle Threader 15
Replacing the Needle 16
Thread Cutter 16
Thread Tension 17
Adjusting Presser Foot Pressure 17
Changing the Presser Foot 18
Two-Step Presser Foot 19
To Raise or Drop the Feed Dog 19
Important Sewing Information 20
Needle, Fabric, Thread Selection Guide 20
Presser Foot Application Chart-model 20 21
Presser Foot Application Chart-model 25 22
Basic Sewing Procedures 34
Useful Skills 34
Straight Stitches and Needle Position 36
Zigzag Stitches 36
Stretch Stitch 37
Overcasting Stitches 38
Blind Hem 39
Button Sewing 40
Buttonhole Stitching 41
Eyelet Stitch 44
Darning Stitch 45
Zipper Insertion 47
Invisible zipper insertion 49
Narrow Hemming 50
Cording 51
Satin Stitch Sewing 52
Quilting 53
Fagoting 55
Scallop Stitch 55
Gathering 56
Smocking 57
Free Motion Darning, Embroidery and Monogramming 58
Walking Foot 60
Special Functions 61
Mirror Stitch Pattern - model 25 61
Twin Needle Sewing - model 25 62
Memory - model 25 64
Warning Functions 75
Display Explanation 23
Information on the LED Display 23
Operating Instructions 26
Buttons Explanation 26
Function Buttons 27
Stitches Overview 31
Maintenance 76
Cleaning 76
Replacing the LED Lamp 76
Trouble Shooting 77
Trouble Shooting Guide 77
Detail of the Machine
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Machine Overview
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25
26
27
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16
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8 9
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23
30
31
32
33
34
1. Spool pin
2. Thread tension dial
3. Thread guide
4. Presser foot pressure screw
5. Slide speed
6. Start/stop button
7. Auto-lock button
8. Needle up/down button
9. Reverse button
10. Thread cutter
11. Needle threader
12. Needle plate cover
13. Sewing table and accessory box
14. Top cover
15. Hole for second spool pin
16. Bobbin winder
17. Bobbin stopper
18. Bobbin winder pre-tension
19. Pattern group selection button
20. Stitch length button
21. Stitch width button
22. Function button (model 25)
23. Memory button (model 25)
24. Handwheel
25. Selector wheel
26. Set/disp button
27. Power switch
28. Mains plug socket
29. Foot controller socket
30. Handle
31. One step buttonhole lever
32. Presser foot lever
33. Presser foot
34. Drop feed lever
Machine Overview
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Accessories - model 20
Standard
123
T
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A
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14
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5
E
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109
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D
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F
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12
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8
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1. All purpose foot (T)
2. Button sewing foot
3. Buttonhole foot (D)
4. Satin stitch foot (A)
5. Overcasting foot (E)
6. Blind hem foot (F)
7. Spool holder (Large)
8. Spool holder (Small)
9. Bobbin(3x)
10. Spool pin felt
11. Second spool pin
12. Pack of needles
13.
Edge/quilting guide
14. Brush/ Seam ripper
15. Screwdriver
16. L-Screwdriver
17. Dust cover
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Optional (to be purchased individually)
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I
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20
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K
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M
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18. Zipper foot (I)
19. Darning/ Embroidery foot
20. Invisible Zipper foot
21. Hemmer foot (K)
22. Cording foot (M)
23. Gathering foot
24. 1/4" Quilting foot
25. Twin needle
26. Walking foot
Accessories - model 25
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Standard
1234
T
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5
A
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10
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15 16
I
6
E
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11
502020.59.23
502020.59.21502020.59.24
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7
12
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17
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D
F
13
18
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98
14
19
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Machine Overview
1. All purpose foot (T)
2. Zipper foot (I)
3. Button sewing foot
4. Buttonhole foot (D)
5. Satin stitch foot (A)
6. Overcasting foot (E)
7. Darning/ Embroidery foot
8. Blind hem foot (F)
9. Spool holder (Large)
10. Spool holder (Small)
11. Bobbin(3x)
12. Spool pin felt
13. Second spool pin
14. Pack of needles
15. Edge/quilting guide
16. Brush/ Seam ripper
17. L-Screwdriver
18. Screwdriver
19. Dust cover
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Optional
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(to be purchased individually)
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K
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25
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M
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20. Invisible Zipper foot
21. Hemmer foot (K)
22. Cording foot (M)
23. Gathering foot
24. 1/4" Quilting foot
25. Twin needle
26. Walking foot
Machine Setup
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Connecting the Machine
Before connecting the power supply, make sure that the voltage and frequency shown on the rating plate is conforming with your mains power.
Place the machine on a stable table.
1. Connect the power line cord to the machine by inserting the 2-hole plug into the
mains plug socket.
2. Connect the power line plug to the wall outlet.
3. Turn on the power switch.
4. The sewing lamp will light up when the switch is turned on.
Caution:
Always make sure that the machine is unplugged from power source and the main switch is on "O". when the machine is not in use and before inserting or removing parts.
Foot Control
Polarized plug information
This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other), to reduce the risk of electrical shock; this plug will fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way.
With the sewing machine turned off, insert the foot control plug into its connector on the sewing machine.
Turn on the sewing machine, and then slowly depress the foot control to start sewing. Release the foot control to stop the sewing machine.
Attention:
Consult a qualified electrician if in doubt as how to connect the machine to the power source. Unplug the power cord when the machine is not in use.
Use only foot controller type C-9000 manufactured by CHIEN HUNG TAIWAN., LTD. with sewing machine model 20 and 25.
Sewing Table
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Machine Setup
Keep the snap-in sewing table horizontal, and pull it in the direction of the arrow.
The inside of the snap-in sewing table is used as an accessory box.
To open, tilt the cover towards you.
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Machine Setup
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Winding the Bobbin
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1. Place the thread and spool holder onto the spool pin. For smaller spools of thread, place spool holder with the
small side next to the spool or use the small spool holder.
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2. Snap the thread into the upper thread guide .
3. Wind the thread clockwise around the bobbin winder tension discs.
4. Place the thread end through one of the inner holes in the bobbin as illustrated and place empty bobbin on the spindle.
5. Push the bobbin to right.
Machine Setup
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Note:
When the bobbin winder is pushed to the right, The
spindle
machine will display the symbol " "
6. Hold the thread tail securely in one hand.
7. Press on the foot control or the Start/Stop button to start
winding the bobbin.
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8. After the bobbin has wound a few turns stop the machine
and cut the thread near the hole of the bobbin. Continue filling the bobbin until it is full.
The motor stops automatically when the bobbin is full. Stop the machine. Push the bobbin winder spindle to left.
9. Cut the thread and then remove the bobbin.
Note:
When the bobbin winder is placed on the right, "bobbin
spindle
winding position", the machine will not sew and the handwheel will not turn. To start sewing, push the bobbin winder spindle to the left "sewing position".
Machine Setup
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Inserting the Bobbin
Attention:
- Turn power switch to "O" before threading or unthreading the
machine.
- The thread take-up lever must be in the highest position when
threading.
- A wrong threading in can cause damages to the machine!
To open the bobbin cover, slide it against you. Inserting the bobbin in the bobbin holder with the thread running
counter clockwise direction.
Pull the thread along the arrow marking through the slit under the finger (A) as far as the pulley (B).
To make sure that the thread is pulled into the tension spring of the bobbin holder, press a finger slightly onto the bobbin while pulling. As a check you must feel a resistance in the thread feed.
Pull the thread at the arrow markings into the stitch plate thread guide from (B) to (C).
To cut off excess thread pull thread back over the cutting off blade at point (C).
To close the bobbin cover, push it to the back.
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1
2
3
Threading the Upper Thread
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Machine Setup
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4
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Please Note:
It is important to carry out the threading correctly as by not doing so several sewing problems could result.
Start by raising the needle to its highest point, and also raise the presser foot to release the tension discs.
1. Lift up the spool pin until it is snaped-in in the middle position. Place the spool of thread on the spool pin so that the thread comes from the front of the spool, then place the spool cap at the end of the spool pin.
2. Snap the thread into the upper thread guide .
Machine Setup
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3. Pull the thread forward and down. This operation pulls the thread into the thread tension.
4. Then further down and around the bottom part of the take up lever cover.
5. At the top of this movement, pass the thread from right to the left through the slotted eye of the take-up lever and then downwards again.
6. Guide the thread through the wire loop.
7. Pull the end of the thread through the needle from front to rear, and pull out about 10 cm of thread.
Use the face plate thread cutter to cut excess needle thread. Use the needle threader to thread the needle (refer to next
page for instruction).
Needle Threader
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Machine Setup
Raise the needle to its highest position and lower the presser foot.
Attention:
Turn power switch to the off position ("O").
Lower the needle threader lever slowly and draw the thread through the thread guide as illustrated and then to the right.
The needle threader automatically turns to the threading position and the hook pin passes through the needle eye.
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Pull the thread to the right, guiding it to the front of the needle
Hold the thread loosely and release the lever slowly.
The hook will turn and pass the thread through the needle eye forming a loop.
Pull the thread through the needle eye.
Machine Setup
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Replacing the Needle
Attention:
Turn power switch to off ("O") when carrying out the below operation!
B
A
Change the needle regularly, especially if it is showing signs of wear and causing problems.
Insert the needle following the illustrated instructions.
A. Loosen the needle clamp screw and
tighten again after inserting the new needle. The flat side of the shaft should be towards the back.
B. Insert the needle as far up as it will go.
Needles must be in perfect condition.
Problems can occur with:
- Bent needles
- Blunt needles
- Damaged points
Thread Cutter
The thread cutter serves two purposes.
1. Cut the thread after threading the needle
2. Cut the thread after finishing a seam.
To cut the thread after completing your work raise the presser foot.
Remove the fabric, draw the threads to the left side of the face cover and cut using the thread cutter.
The threads are cut at the proper length to start the next seam.
Thread Tension
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TightLoose
Machine Setup
- Basic thread tension setting: "4"
- To increase the tension, turn the dial to the next number up. To
reduce the tension, turn the dial to the next number down.
- Proper setting of tension is important to good sewing.
- For all decorative sewing you will always obtain a nicer stitch
and less fabric puckering when the upper thread appears on the bottom side of your fabric.
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Reverse side
Surface
Normal thread tension for straight stitch sewing.
Upper thread
Bobbin thread
Thread tension is too loose for straight stitch sewing. Turn dial to higher number.
Thread tension is too tight for straight stitch sewing. Turn dial to lower number.
Normal thread tension for zig zag and decorative sewing.
Adjusting Presser Foot Pressure
The presser foot pressure of the machine has been pre-set and requires no particular readjustment according to the type of fabric (light-or-heavy weight).
However, if you need to adjust the presser foot pressure, turn the presser adjusting screw with a coin.
For sewing very thin fabric, loosen the pressure by turning the screw counter-clockwise, and for heavy fabric, tighten by turning it clockwise.
To return to initial pressure foot setting turn the pressure adjusting screw to become flush with the face cover.
d
c
f
d
Machine Setup
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Changing the Presser Foot
Turn power switch to off ("O") when carrying out any of the below operations!
Attention:
a
Attaching the presser foot holder
Raise the presser foot bar (a). Attach the presser foot holder (b) as illustrated.
b
Attaching the presser foot
Lower the presser foot holder (b) until the cut-out (c) is directly above the pin (d).
e
Press the black lever (e). Lower the presser foot holder (b) and the presser foot (f) will
engage automatically.
Removing the presser foot
Raise the presser foot.
e
Press the black lever (e) and the foot will disengages.
Attaching the guideedge/quilting
g
Attach the guide (g) in the slot as illustrated. Adjust according to need for hems, pleats, etc.
edge/quilting
Two-Step Presser Foot
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Machine Setup
The presser foot lever raises and lowers your presser foot.
When sewing several layers of thick fabric, the presser foot can be raised to a second stage by pushing the presser foot lever further up. This allows for easy positioning of the work.
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To Raise or Drop the Feed Dogs
With the sewing table detached, the drop feed lever can be located on the back of the free arm.
Sliding the lever to the " " (b) will lower
a
b
a
b
the feed dog, for example during button sewing or freehand embroidery.
If you wish to continue sewing normally, slide the lever to the " " (a) in order to raise the feed dogs.
The feed dog if you do not turn the handwheel, even if the lever is slid to the right. Make a complete turn to raise the feed dogs.
will not rise up
Important Sewing Information
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Needle, Fabric, Thread Selection Guide
Important:
The thread is chosen according to use. For a perfect sewing result, thread and fabric quality play an important role. It is recommended to use quality brands.
Care must be taken when choosing needle and thread. The correct needle size depends on the selected thread and fabric. The fabric weight and type determine the thread weight, needle size and point form.
Needle size Fabrics Thread
9-11/65-75
Lightweight fabrics-thin cottons, voile, serge, silk, muslin, Qiana, interlocks, cotton knits, tricots, jerseys, crepes, woven polyester, shirt & blouse fabrics.
Light-duty thread in cotton, nylon or polyester.
12/80
14/90
16/100
18/110
Medium weight fabrics-cotton, satin, kettleclote, sailcloth, double knits, lightweight woollens.
Medium weight fabrics-cotton duck, woolen, heavier knits, terrycloth, denims.
Heavyweight fabrics-canvas, woolens, outdoor tent and quilted fabrics, denims, upholstery material (light to medium).
Heavy woollens, overcoat fabrics, upholstery fabrics, some leathers and vinyls.
Most threads sold are medium size and suitable for these fabrics and needle sizes.
Use polyester threads on synthetic materials and cotton on natural woven fabrics for best results.
Always use the same thread on top and bottom.
Heavy duty thread, carpet thread. (Use heavy foot pressurelarge numbers.)
NEEDLE, FABRIC SELECTION
Needles Explanation Type of fabric
HA x 1
15x1
15x1/ 130/ 705H
15 x 1/ 130/ 705H (SUK)
Standard sharp needles. Sizes range thin to large. 9 (65) to 18 (110)
Semi-ball point needle, scarfed. 9 (65) to 18 (110)
Full ball point needle 9 (65) to 18 (110)
Natural woven fabrics-wool, cotton, silk, etc. Qiana. Not recommended for double knits.
Natural and synthetic woven fabrics, polyester blends. Knits-polyesters, interlocks, tricot, single and double knits. Can be used instead of 15x1 for sewing all fabrics.
Sweater knits, Lycra, swimsuit fabric, elastic.
130PCL/ 705H-LR/LL
Leather needles. 12 (80) to 18 (110)
Note:
- Twin needles can be purchased for utility and decorative work.
- European needles show sizes 65, 70, 80 etc. American and Japanese needles show size 9, 11, 12 etc.
- Replace needle often (approximately every other garment ) and / or at first thread breakage or skipped stitches.
Leather, vinyl, upholstery. (Leaves smaller hole than standard large needle.
Important Sewing Information
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Presser Foot Application Chart - model 20
Double needle is being suggested for certain stitches for more creativity
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All purpose foot (T)
Zipper foot (I) *
Button sewing foot
Buttonhole foot (D)
APPLICATIONPRESSER FOOT
General sewing, Patchwork stitches, Decorative stitching, Smocking, Fagoting, etc.
Inserting zippers
Button sewing
Buttonhole sewing
NEEDLE NEEDLE
PRESSER FOOT APPLICATION
Blind hem stitching
Blind hem foot (F)
Narrow hemming
Hemmer foot (K) *
Cording
Cording foot (M) *
Inserting
zippersinvisible
Invisible Zipper foot *
Satin stitch foot (A)
Overcasting foot (E)
1/4" Quilting foot *
Darning/ Embroidery foot *
Satin stitch sewing
Overcasting
Quilting and pacthwork sewing
Darning Free embroidery Monogramming
Gathering
Gathering foot *
This foot helps to prevent uneven feeding of very difficult fabrics
Walking foot *
Twin needle *
* Available as optional accessories
Important Sewing Information
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Presser Foot Application Chart - model 25
Double needle is being suggested for certain stitches for more creativity
All purpose foot (T)
Zipper foot (I)
Button sewing foot
Buttonhole foot (D)
APPLICATIONPRESSER FOOT
General sewing, Patchwork stitches, Decorative stitching, Smocking, Fagoting, etc.
Inserting zippers
Button sewing
Buttonhole sewing
NEEDLE NEEDLE
PRESSER FOOT APPLICATION
Blind hem stitching
Blind hem foot (F)
Narrow hemming
Hemmer foot (K) *
Cording
Cording foot (M) *
Inserting
zippersinvisible
Invisible Zipper foot *
Satin stitch foot (A)
Overcasting foot (E)
1/4" Quilting foot *
Darning/ Embroidery foot
Satin stitch sewing
Overcasting
Quilting and pacthwork sewing
Darning Free embroidery Monogramming
Gathering
Gathering foot *
This foot helps to prevent uneven feeding of very difficult fabrics
Walking foot *
Twin needle *
* Available as optional accessories
Information on the LED Display
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Display Explanation
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2
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7
89 10
3
4
5
6
11
Normal mode display - model 25
1.
Auto-lock
2.
Reverse
3.
Pattern group
4.
Stitch number
5.
Stitch length
6.
Stitch width
7.
Needle stop down
8.
Auto-stop on pattern end
9.
Machine running
10.
Pattern Mirrored function
11.
Twin needle function
12.
Alphabets group
12
Display Explanation
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Memory mode display - model 25
1. Stitch number
2. Memory mode active
1
2
3
3. Stitch length
4. Stitch width
5. Memory position display
6. Memory position
7. Memory insert function
4
8. Memory delete/delete ALL function
5
6
7
8
Display Explanation
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25
234
1
7
5
9
8
10 11
6
Normal mode display - model 20
1.
Needle stop down
2.
Reverse
3. Auto-stop on pattern end
4.
Machine running
5.
Pattern group
6.
Stitch number
7.
Auto-lock
8.
Stitch length mode
9.
Stitch length
10.
Stitch width mode
11.
Stitch width
Operating Instructions
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Buttons Explanation
4
5
3 2
1
6
7
8
9 10 11
Reverse button
1.
Needle up/ down button
2.
Auto-lock button
3.
Start/stop button
4.
Slide speed
5.
Pattern group selection
6.
Stitch length button
7.
Stitch width button
8.
Function
9.
10.
Set/disp
Memory button (model 25)
11.
button (model 25)
button
button
Function Buttons
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Operating Instructions
Start/stop button
Press the start /stop button to start the machine. Press again to stop it. machine will rotate slowly at start of sewing.
This way you may operate the machine without foot control.
When the machine is sewing or winding the bobbin, the start /stop
Reverse button
Reverse is pressed to sew in reverse. The machine will display the symbol " " indicates reverse sewing.
the pattern 01-05 and 24 can be
Only sewn in reverse.
The machine Press the button again to sew forward.
If you press and release the button before starting to sew, the machine will permanently sew in reverse and press the button again to sew forward.
will permanently sew in reverse.
symbol will display.
The
27
Auto-lock button and single pattern
When the are selected, the machine will immediately sew 3 locking stitches when the auto-lock button is pressed, then automatically stop.
The machine will display the symbol " " until the machine is stopped.
Except for the
, press the auto-lock button, the machine
60 will sew 3 locking stitches at the end of the current pattern and automatically stop.
The machine will display the symbol " " until the machine is stopped. The function will be cancelled if you press the button once again or select another pattern.
patterns 01-05 and 24
pattern 01-05, 10, 24 and 50-
Operating Instructions
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28
Needle up/down button
By pressing the needle up/down button the needle will make half a stitch. Depending on the actual needle position it will stop in the opposite position, either at the highest or the lowest position. At the same time the needle stop position after sewing is permanently set.
When the needle stops down, the needle down symbol " " will display.
Please Note
During sewing, press the needle up/down button, the machine will stop automatically.
Slide speed
By adjusting the position of the slide speed the top speed during sewing may be limited. The position of the slider defines the sewing speed at full stroke of the foot controller.
For slower speed: Slide toward ( )
For higher speed: Slide toward (+) When the machine is run with the start/stop
button the position of the slide speed defines the actual sewing speed.
Pattern group
selection button
Press the pattern group selection button once to enter stitch patterns.
Press this button twice to enter Alphabet.
" " Stitch pattern selection by numbers - 60
" "Alphabets - 95 ( )
model 25
Operating Instructions
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Stitch length button
Press the stitch length button to enter stitch length adjustment mode.
To shorten the stitch length, turn the
wheel
counter clockwise.
selector
To increase the stitch length, turn the
selector wheel
clockwise.
The stitch length can be adjusted between "0.0-4.5 mm". Certain stitches have a limited length.
When you select a stitch, the machine will automatically set the recommended stitch length which will be indicated by numbers on the screen.
Stitch width button
Press the stitch width button to enter stitch width adjustment mode.
For a narrower stitch, turn the
selector wheel
counter clockwise. For a wider stitch, turn the
selector wheel
clockwise. The stitch width can be adjusted between
"0.0-7.0 mm". Certain stitches have a limited stitch width.
When you select a stitch, the machine will automatically set the recommended stitch width, which will be indicated by numbers on the screen.
29
Function button - model 25
Press the function button to open function program and change your sewing setting (mirror, twin needle...etc) .
See chapter special functions details about the use of this button.
Operating Instructions
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30
-
Memory button
model 25
Press the memory button to enter memory mode and store combinations of characters and/or decorative stitches.
Press the memory button again to leave the memory mode and return mode.
normal
Please note
The pattern 10, 50-60 cannot be memorized.
Set/disp button
In the normal mode press this button to memorize stitch pattern number and safe the stitch length and width value.
In the function mode press this button to toggle selected function and memorize it.
In the memory mode press this button to memorize a pattern.
Stitches
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Stitches Overview
31
Stitch Pattern
Straight Stitch
Tripple Straight
Zig-Zag
3 Step Zig-Zag
Double Overlock
Blind Hem
Overlock
Stretch stitich
1 step BH
Tripple Zig-Zag
Stretch Overlock
Honeycomb
Universal
Bridging Stitch
01
02
03
04
05
06
07
08
09
10
11
12
13
14
15
Width (mm) Length (mm)
Auto Manual Auto Manual
3.5
0.0
3.5
5.0
5.0
5.0
3.5
3.5
2.0
5.0
5.0
5.0
7.0
5.0
6.0
0.0-7.0
0.0-7.0
0.0-7.0
0.0-7.0
2.0-7.0
2.5-7.0
2.5-7.0
2.5-7.0
1.0-6.0
2.5-7.0
2.5-7.0
2.5-7.0
2.5-7.0
2.5-7.0
2.5-7.0
2.5
2.5
2.5
2.0
1.0
2.5
1.0
1.0
2.5
0.5
2.5
2.5
2.5
2.0
1.5
0.0-4.5
0.0-4.5
1.0-3.0
0.3-4.5
0.3-4.5
1.0-3.0
0.5-4.5
0.5-4.5
1.0-3.0
0.3-1.0
1.0-3.0
1.0-3.0
1.0-3.0
1.0-3.0
1.0-4.5
Presser
Foot
T
T
T
T
T
E
F
E
T
D
T
E
A
T
T
Reverse
Auto-lock
Functions
Mirror/
Presser foot
/T
/T
/T
/T
Twin needle
Memory
(for )model 25
Stretch Blindhem
Universal
Superstretch
(Comb Stitch)
Single Overlock
Fagothing
Standard Overlock
Blanket
(Quilting Applique)
Feather
Hand Look
Quilting
Scallop
Trapeze
Cross Stitch
Squares
Satin Stitch
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
3.5
5.0
4.0
4.0
5.0
5.0
3.5
5.0
3.5
7.0
7.0
6.0
7.0
7.0
7.0
Please Note:
The portion marked in colored on the chart below shows the one unit of each pattern.gray
2.5-7.0
2.5-7.0
2.5-7.0
2.5-7.0
2.5-7.0
3.5-7.0
2.5-7.0
2.5-7.0
0.0-7.0
2.5-7.0
2.5-7.0
3.0-7.0
2.5-7.0
2.5-7.0
2.5-7.0
1.5
2.0
2.0
1.0
2.5
2.5
2.5
2.5
2.5
0.5
0.5
1.0
0.5
0.5
0.5
0.5-4.5
1.0-4.5
1.0-3.0
1.0-3.0
1.0-3.0
1.0-3.0
1.5-3.0
1.0-3.0
1.0-3.0
0.3-1.0
0.3-1.0
1.0-3.0
0.3-1.0
0.3-1.0
0.3-1.0
F
/T
T
T
T
T
E
/T
T
A
T
A
A
A
A
A
A
: Adjustments can be made.
Stitches Overview
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32
Stitch Pattern
Satin Stitch
Decorative Satin Stitch
Quilting Stitch
( for stippling )
Decorative Stitch
Cross Stitch
Decorative Stitch
Satin Stitch
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
41
42
43
44
45
46
Width (mm) Length (mm)
Auto Manual Auto Manual
7.0
7.0
7.0
7.0
7.0
7.0
6.0
5.0
6.0
6.0
7.0
7.0
7.0
7.0
7.0
7.0
2.5-7.0
2.5-7.0
2.5-7.0
4.0-7.0
4.0-7.0
4.0-7.0
4.5-7.0
3.0-7.0
5.0-7.0
5.0-7.0
3.0-7.0
4.0-7.0
5.0-7.0
4.0-7.0
2.5-7.0
2.5-7.0
0.5
0.5
0.5
0.5
0.5
0.5
1.0
2.5
1.0
1.0
2.0
2.5
2.0
3.0
0.5
0.5
0.3-1.0
0.3-1.0
0.3-1.0
0.3-1.0
0.3-1.0
0.3-1.0
1.0-3.0
1.5-4.5
1.0-3.0
1.0-3.0
1.0-3.0
1.5-3.0
2.0-3.0
2.5-4.5
0.3-1.0
0.3-1.0
Presser
Foot
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
T
A
A
A
A
A
Reverse
Auto-lock
Functions
Mirror/
Presser foot
Twin needle
Memory
(for )model 25
Decorative Stitch
Darning Stitch
1 step BH
Eyelet Stitch
47
48
49
50
51
52
53
54
55
56
57
58
59
60
5.0
7.0
7.0
7.0
7.0
5.5
5.0
6.0
5.0
5.0
7.0
7.0
6.0
7.0
Please Note:
The portion marked in colored on the chart below shows the one unit of each pattern.gray
2.5-7.0
3.5-7.0
3.0-7.0
3.5-7.0
3.5-7.0
3.0-7.0
2.5-5.5
3.0-7.0
2.5-5.5
2.5-5.5
5.5-7.0
5.5-7.0
3.0-7.0
5.0,6.0,7.0
2.5
2.0
2.0
2.0
2.0
0.5
0.5
0.5
0.5
0.5
0.5
0.5
1.5
1.5-3.0
1.5-3.0
1.5-3.0
1.0-2.0
1.0-2.0
0.3-1.0
0.3-1.0
0.3-1.0
0.3-1.0
0.3-1.0
0.3-1.0
0.3-1.0
1.0-3.0
-
-
T
T
A
D
D
D
D
D
D
D
D
D
D
A
: Adjustments can be made.
Stitches Overview
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Alphabets - model 25
Please Note:
- In normal mode all letters are sewn in the maximum height of 7mm. The user must line up the letters if a sequence of letters is sewn.
33
7mm
- If a sequence of letters is stored in memory, the machine will sew capital letters with a reduced height of 5.5mm. This way all letters line up automatically.
5.5mm
-
If only the capital letters are stored in memory, the machine will sew in the maximum height of 7mm.
7mm
7mm
Basic Sewing Procedures
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34
Useful Skills
Reverse
Reverse stitching is used to secure the threads at the beginning and at the end of a seam.
Press the reverse button and sew 4-5 stitches.
The machine will sew forward when the button is released.
Free arm
Free-arm sewing is convenient for sewing tubular areas such as pant hems and cuffs.
2
Basic Sewing Procedures
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35
Sewing corners
1. Stop the sewing machine when you reach a corner.
2. Lower the needle into the fabric manually
3
1
2
4
5
or by pressing the needle up/ down button once.
3. Raise the presser foot.
4. Use the needle as a pivot and turn the fabric.
5. Lower the presser foot and resume sewing.
Sewing on the heavy fabric
The black button on the left side of the presser foot will lock the presser foot in a horizontal position if you push it in before lowering the presser foot. This ensures even feeding at the beginning of a seam and helps when sewing multiple layers of fabric such as sewing over seams when hemming jeans.
When you reach the point of an increased thickness, lower the needle and raise the presser foot. Press the toe of the foot and push in the black button, then lower the foot and continue sewing.
Cardboard or
thick fabric
The black button releases automatically after sewing few stitches.
You also can place another piece of fabric with the same thickness at the back of the seam. Or support the presser foot while feeding by hand and sewing toward the folded side.
Basic Sewing Procedures
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36
Straight Stitches and Needle Position
Changing the needle position
These setting apply only to pattern 01-03, 24. The pre-set position is " 3.5", center position.
Press the stitch width button to enter stitch width adjustment mode. When you turn the
selector wheel
0.0 2.0
3.5
2.01.00.5
5.0 7.0
3.0
4.5
position will move to the left. When you turn the clockwise, the needle position will move to the right.
Changing the stitch length
Press the stitch length button to enter stitch length adjustment mode.
To shorten the stitch length, turn the
wheel
length, turn the clockwise. Generally speaking, the thicker the fabric,
thread and needle, the longer the stitch should be.
counter clockwise, the needle
selector wheel
selector
counter clockwise. For a longer stitch
selector wheel
Zigzag Stitches
1.00.0
3.0
2.01.00.5
3.0
7.05.0
4.5
Adjusting the stitch width
The maximum zigzag stitch width for zigzag stitching is "7.0"; however, the width can be reduced on any patterns.
Press the stitch width button to enter stitch width adjustment mode, he stitch width can be adjusted between "0.0-7.0 mm".
Adjusting the stitch length
The density of zigzag stitches increase as the setting of stitch length approaches "0.3".
Neat zigzag stitches are usually achieved at "1.0-2.5". Closed up zigzag stitches (close together) are referred to as a satin stitch.
t
Stretch Stitch
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Basic Sewing Procedures
It assures you of a stitch that is strong and flexible and will give with the fabric without breaking. Good for easy to ravel and knit fabrics. It is good for joining durable fabric such as denims.
These stitches can also be used as a decorative top stitch.
37
Straight stretch stitch is used to add triple reinforcement to stretch and hardwearing seams.
Triple zigzag stretch stitch is suitable for firm fabrics like denim, poplin, duck, etc.
Basic Sewing Procedures
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38
Overcasting Stitches
Using the overcasting foot
3.5~7.0
2.0~3.0
Change the presser foot to the overcasting foot (E).
Sew the fabric with the fabric edge against the guide of the overcasting foot.
Attention:
The overcasting foot should be used to sew with patterns and 21 only and do not set the stitch width narrower than "3.5". It is possible that needle could hit the presser foot and break when sewing other patterns and width.
Using the all purpose foot
06, 08,12
2.5~4.5
2.0~3.0
Change the presser foot to the all purpose foot (T) .
Sewing the overcasting along the edge of the fabric so that the needle drops over the edge of the fabric on the right side.
Blind Hem
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Basic Sewing Procedures
39
Reverse
side
2.5~4.0
16mm 8mm
Overcasting
stitch
Reverse
side
1.0~2.0
b
8mm
07 Blind hem/lingerie for firm fabrics
:
16 Blind hem for stretch fabrics
:
Fold the fabric as illustrated with the reverse side uppermost.
First carry out an overcasting stitch as shown in left picture.
Please Note:
It takes practice to sew blind hem. Always make a sewing test first.
Place the fabric under the foot. Turn the handwheel forwards by hand until the needle swings fully to the left. It should just pierce
a
the fold of the fabric. If it does not, adjust the stitch width accordingly.
Adjust the guide (b) by turning the knob (a) so that the guide just rests against the fold.
Sew slowly, guiding the fabric carefully along the edge of the guide.
Turn over the fabric.
Basic Sewing Procedures
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40
Button Sewing
b
2.5~4.5
a
b
a
2.5~4.5
Change the presser foot to the button sewing foot.
Move the drop feed control to " " to lower the feed dogs.
Position the work under the foot. Place the button in the desired position, lower the foot.
Select zig zag pattern. Adjust the stitch width to "2.5-4.5" according to the distance between the two holes of the button.
Turn the handwheel to check that the needle goes cleanly into the left and right holes of the button.
Before sewing, press the Auto-lock button to sew reinforcement stitches automatically at the beginning and at the end of the stitch.
If a shank is required, place a darning needle on top of the button and sew.
For buttons with 4 holes, sew through the front two holes first, push work forward and then sew through the back two holes.
Buttonhole Stitching
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D
2.5~7.0
3.0~7.0
2.5~5.5
5.5~7.0
3.0~7.0
0.3~1.0
0.3~1.0
0.3~1.0
0.3~1.0
1.0~2.0
Basic Sewing Procedures
10: For thin or medium fabrics 52: For horizontal holes on blouses or shirts
made from thin or medium fabrics 53: For thin or medium fabrics 54: For horizontal holes on blouses or shirts
made from thin or medium fabrics 55: For horizontal buttonholes on thick
fabrics 56: For thin or medium fabric 57: For suits or overcoats 58: For thick coats 59: For jeans or stretch fabrics with a coarse
weave
Please Note:
Before sewing a buttonhole on your project, practice on a scrap piece of the same type of fabrics.
41
Mark the positions of the buttonhole on the fabric. The maximum buttonhole length is 3cm (1 3/16 inch). (Total of diameter + thickness of button.)
Attach the buttonhole foot, then pull out the button holder plate and insert the button.
The size of the buttonhole is determined by the button inserted in the button plate.
The thread should be passed through the hole in the presser foot, then be placed under the foot.
Select the buttonhole stitch. Adjust the stitch width and the stitch length to
the desired width and density.
Starting
point
Basic Sewing Procedures
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42
Position the fabric under the presser foot so that the centerline's mark is aligning with the center of the buttonhole foot.
Lower the buttonhole lever.
While lightly holding the end of upper thread and start sewing.
Please Note:
Gently feed the fabric by hand. Before stopping, the machine will automatically
sew a reinforcement stitch after the buttonhole is sewn.
* Buttonholes are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back, as shown.
Basic Sewing Procedures
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Raise the presser foot and cut thread. To sew over same buttonhole, raise the
presser foot (will return to original position). After sewing the buttonhole stitch, raise the
buttonhole lever until it stops.
Cut the center of the buttonhole being careful not to cut any stitches on either side. Use a pin as a stopper at the bar tack so you do not cut too much.
43
Making a buttonhole on stretch fabrics
When sewing buttonholes on stretch fabric, hook heavy thread or cord under the button­hole foot.
Attach the buttonhole foot and hook the gimp thread onto the back of the presser foot.
Bring the two gimp thread ends to the front of the foot and insert them into the grooves, then temporarily tie them there. Lower the presser foot and start sewing.
Set the stitch width to match the diameter of the gimp thread.
Once sewing is completed, pull the gimp thread gently to remove any slack, then trim off any excess.
Please Note:
It is suggested that you use interfacing on the backside of the fabric.
Basic Sewing Procedures
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44
Eyelet Stitch
A
5.0 6.0 7.0
ABC
Select pattern 60 to get the eyelet stitch. Attach satin stitch foot (A).
Press the "-" or "+" stitch width adjustment to button select the eyelet size.
Size of eyelet. A. Small: 5.0mm (3/16 inch). B. Medium: 6.0mm (15/64 inch). C. Large: 7.0mm (1/4 inch).
Lower the needle into the fabric at the beginning of the stitching, and then lower the presser foot lever.
Once sewing is completed, the machine automatically sews reinforcement stitches, then stops.
Make a hole at the center using an eyelet punch.
* Eyelet punch is not included with the
machine.
Please Note:
If thin thread is used, the stitching may be coarse. If this occurs, sew the eyelet twice one on top of the other.
Darning Stitch
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D
3.5~7.0
1.0~2.0
Basic Sewing Procedures
50: Simple darning stitch in thin and medium
fabrics 51: Reinforced darning stitch in heavy fabrics
Select stitch pattern 50 or 51 to get the darning stitch.
Change the presser foot to the buttonhole foot.
Baste the upper fabric and the under fabric together.
Select the needle position. Lower the presser foot over the center of the tear.
45
Pull the button holder to rear. Set the button guide plate on buttonhole foot
to the desired length.
The size of one darn cycle is variable. However, the maximum stitch length is
StopStop
2.6cm (1 inch) and the maximum stitch width is 7mm (9/32 inch).
a
a
a. The length of sewing. b. The width of sewing.
Start
b
Start
b
Basic Sewing Procedures
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46
2mm
Position the fabric so that the needle is 2mm (1/16 inch) in front of the area to be darned, and then lower the presser foot lever.
Please Note:
When lowering the presser foot, do not push in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the darning will not be sewn with the correct size.
Pass the upper thread down through the hole in the presser foot. Pull down the buttonhole lever .
The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the bracket on the buttonhole foot. Gently hold the end of the upper thread in your left hand, and then start sewing.
Darning stitches are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back, as shown.
If the sewing range is too big to sew, then we suggest you can sew several times (or cross sew) to get better sewing result.
Zipper Insertion
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Basic Sewing Procedures
47
* The zipper accessory is optional. (For
foot
model 20)
I
3.5
1.5~3.0
Attention:
Zipper foot should be used for sewing width center needle position straight stitch only. It is possible that needle could hit the presser foot and break when sewing other patterns.
Inserting a centered zipper
- Baste the zipper opening on the garment.
5mm
- Press open the seam allowance. Place the
zipper face down on the seam allowance with the teeth against the seam line. Baste the zipper tape.
- Attach the zipper foot. Attach the right side
of the presser foot pin to the holder when sewing the left side of the zipper.
- Attach the left side of the presser foot pin
to the presser foot holder when sewing the right side of the zipper.
- Stitch left side of the zipper from top to
bottom.
- Stitch across the lower end and right side
of zipper. Remove the basting and press.
Basic Sewing Procedures
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48
Inserting a side zipper
- Baste the zipper opening on the garment.
5mm
- Fold back to the left seam allowance. Turn under the right seam allowance to form 3mm fold.
- Attach the zipper foot. Attach the right side of the presser foot pin to the holder when sewing the left side of the zipper.
Attach the left side of the presser foot pin to the presser foot holder when sewing the right side of the zipper.
- Stitch the left side of zipper from bottom to top.
- Turn the fabric right side out, stitch across the lower end and right side of zipper.
- Stop about 5cm (2 inches) from the top of zipper. Remove the basting and open the zipper. Stitch the remainder of the seam.
Invisible zipper insertion
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3.5
1.0~3.0
Basic Sewing Procedures
* The invisible zipper foot accessory is
optional. It is not included with this machine.
49
Surface
Reverse
Surface
5/8"
1/4"
This foot is used to insert invisible zippers so that they are covered by the seam, and thus hidden.
Attach the invisible zipper foot to the machine. Adjust needle center position and straight stitch. Stitch length depends from the fabric. Adjust 1,0 - 3,0 mm.
Place open zipper face - down on right side of fabric as shown picture.
Place the fabric edge at the 5/8 inch marking line on the needle plate surface.
Place the zipper 1/4 inch below raw edge of garment.
With right-hand groove of foot over coil, stitch zipper until the foot hits the slider. Remove the garment from the machine.
To attach the other half of the zipper, place the fabric edge on the 5/8 inch marking line on the needle plate as shown in picture.
With the left-hand groove of foot over coil, stitch zipper until the foot hits the slider.
Close zipper. Fold the fabric that the zipper is on ride - hand side out of the way as shown in picture.
Use a pin for fixing the fabric. Change to regular sewing foot and saw as close as possible with straight stitch against the zipper.
At last carry out tie off with some forward and reverse stitches.
Basic Sewing Procedures
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50
Narrow Hemming
K
3.5
* The hemmer foot accessory is optional. It is
not included with this machine.
1.5~3.0
Fold edge of fabric over about 3mm, then fold it over again 3mm for about 5cm along the edge of the fabric.
Insert the needle into the fold by rotating the handwheel toward you, and lower the presser foot. Sew several stitches and raise the presser foot.
Insert the fabric fold into the spiral opening of hemmer foot. Move fabric back and forth until the fold forms a scroll shape.
Lower the presser foot and start sewing slowly guiding the raw edge of the fabric in front of the hemmer foot evenly into the scroll of the foot.
Cording
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Basic Sewing Procedures
* The accessory is optional. It is
cording foot
not included with this machine.
51
M
Sew over one strand of cording to create a pretty swirled design on a jacket or vest or sew over three strands of cording for border trims. Pearl cotton, knitting yarn, embroidery floss, lace thread, fine wool or lily yarn can be used for cording.
Single cording
Mark the design on the fabric. Insert the cord in the center groove of the cording foot from the right side opening. Pull the cord about 5cm (2 inches) behind the foot.
The grooves under the foot will hold the length of the cord in place while the stitches are being form over the cord.
Select the stitch and adjust the stitch width so that the stitches are just covering the cord. Lower the foot and sew slowly, guiding the cord over the design.
M
Triple cording
Push the sewing thread to the left and insert three cords into the grooves of the foot and pull about 5cm (2 inches) of the cords behind the foot.
Select the desired pattern and adjust the stitch width so that the stitches are just covering the cords. Lower the foot and sew slowly guiding the cords.
Basic Sewing Procedures
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52
Satin Stitch Sewing
A
3.5~7.0
0.3~1.0
Use the satin stitch foot for satin stitching and sewing decorative stitches. This foot has a full indentation on the underside to allowed easy sewing over the thickness of the stitches form by closely spaced zigzag stitches, and even feeding of the fabric.
To tailor the satin or decorative stitch pattern, you may adjust the length and width of the pattern by pressing the stitch length and width adjustment buttons. Experiment with fabric scraps until you get the desired length and width.
Please Note:
When sewing very thin fabrics, it is suggested that you use interfacing on the backside of the fabric.
Quilting
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Basic Sewing Procedures
* The 1/4" quilting foot accessory is optional. It
is not included with this machine.
53
3.5
1.0~3.0
1/4"
Patchwork stitching
Align the edges of the fabric with inside edge of guide on the side of the foot for accurate 1/4" piecing.
Note:
Only the straight stitch in the center position canbeused.
The inside of the toes provides an accurate 1/8" seaming guide.
The foot has 1/4" markings both behind the needle and in front of the needle for accurate pivoting of corners.
Using the edge/quilting guide
edge/quiltingInsert the in the presser foot holder as illustrated and set the space as you desire.
Sew the first row and move over the fabric to sew successive rows with the guide riding along the previous row of stitching.
Basic Sewing Procedures
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54
3.5
3.5
1.0~3.0
1.5~3.0
Hand look quilting
You can duplicate the look of a quilt
stitch by using monofilament thread in
hand look
the needle, 30 or 40 weight cotton thread in the bobbin, and increasing the needle tension. The needle tension will need to be determined by the thickness of your batting.
Blanket (Quilting Applique)
For all fabrics and all types of work.
A
Patchwork stitching
Place the two pieces of fabric with the right side together and sew with the straight stitch.
Open the seam allowance and press it flat.
Place the center of the presser foot on the seam line of the joined pieces of fabric and sew over the seam.
Fagoting
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T
Thin paper
Basting
Basic Sewing Procedures
- Separate the folded edges of the fabric
pieces with a gap of 4mm (1/8 inch) and baste them onto a piece of thin paper or water-soluble stabilizer sheet.
- Align the center of the presser foot with the
center of the two pieces of fabric and begin sewing.
- After sewing, remove the paper.
55
Scallop Stitch
A
- Stitch along the edge of the fabric,
making sure not to sew directly on the edge of the fabric.
For better results, apply spray starch onto the fabric and press with a hot iron before it is sewn.
- Trim along the stitches.
Be careful not to cut the stitches.
Basic Sewing Procedures
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Gathering
3.5
4.5
* The accessory is optional. It is
gathering foot
not included with this machine.
Gathered fabric
Remove the presser foot holder and attach the gathering foot, lowering the tension setting to below 2.
Place fabric to be gathered under presser foot to the right of the presser foot. Sew a row of stitching, keeping the raw edge of fabric aligned with the right edge of foot.
The stitches automatically cause the fabric to gather. fabrics.
To gather and attach gathered fabric in one step
Suitable for light to medium weight
Look closely at the gathering foot to see a slot on the bottom.
When using the slot, you can gather the bottom layer of the fabric while attaching it to a flat top layer, such as the waistband on a dress bodice.
1. Remove the presser foot holder and
attach gathering foot.
2. Place the fabric to be gathered with right
side up under the foot.
3. Place top layer of the fabric right side
down in the slot.
4. Guide the two layers as illustrated.
Note:
- When testing machine for adjustments to
achieve desired fullness, work with 10" increments of the fabric, trims or elastic. This makes it easier to determine the adjustments and how much change is needed for your project. Always test on your project fabric and on the same grainline as will be used in your finished project.
Using the crossgrain of the fabric will make prettier gathers than the straight of grain.
- Sew slow to medium speed for better
fabric control.
Smocking
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Basic Sewing Procedures
57
T
A
Adjust the stitch length to 4.0mm and loosen the thread tension.
Use the all purpose foot to sew straight lines 1cm (3/8 inch) apart, across the area to be smocked.
Knot the threads along one edge. Pull the bobbin threads and distribute the
gathers evenly. Secure the threads at the other end.
Reduce the tension, if necessary and sew decorative pattern stitches between the straight seams.
Pull out the gathering stitches.
Basic Sewing Procedures
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Free Motion Darning, Embroidery and Monogramming
* The d accessory is
arning/ Embroidery foot
optional.
(for model 20)
3.5~5.0
Move the drop feed control to " " to lower the feed dogs.
a
b
a
b
a
b
c
Remove the presser foot holder, and attach the darning foot to the presser foot holder bar.
The lever (a) should be behind the needle clamp screw (b). Press the darning foot on firmly from behind with your index finger and tighten the screw (c).
Darning
First sew around the edges of the hole (to secure the threads). Working from left to right, sew over the hole in a constant and continuous movement.
Turn the work by 1/4 (90 ) and sew over the first stitching moving the work slower over the hole to separate the threads and not form big gaps between the threads.
Please Note:
Free motion darning is accomplished without the sewing machine internal feed system. Movement of the fabric is controlled by the operator. It is necessary to coordinate sewing speed and movement of fabric.
°
Basic Sewing Procedures
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Embroidery
Select zigzag stitch pattern and adjust the stitch width as desired.
Stitch along the outline of the design by moving the embroidery hoop. Make sure to maintain a constant speed.
Fill in the design working from the outline towards the inside. Keep the stitches close together.
You will get longer stitches by moving the hoop faster and shorter stitches by moving the hoop more slowly.
Secure with a reinforcement stitches at the end by pressing the Auto-lock button.
59
Monogramming
Select the zigzag stitch pattern and adjust the stitch width as desired. Sew at a constant speed, moving the hoop slowly along the lettering.
When the letter is finished. Secure with a reinforcement stitches at the end by pressing the Auto-lock button.
* Embroider hoop is not included with the
machine.
Basic Sewing Procedures
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Walking Foot
* The walking foot accessory is optional. It is not included with
this machine.
Always try to sew first without the walking foot accessory which should be used only when necessary.
It is easier to guide the fabric and you have a better view of the seam when using the standard, regular foot on your machine.
Your sewing machine offers excellent stitch quality on a wide range of fabrics from delicate chiffons to multiple layers of denim.
The Walking Foot accessory equalizes the feeding of the upper and lower layers of fabric and improves the matching of plaids, stripes and patterns. It also helps to prevent uneven feeding of very difficult fabrics. The Walking Foot accessory equalizes the feeding of the upper and lower layers of fabric and improves the matching of plaids, stripes and patterns. It also helps to prevent uneven feeding of very difficult fabrics.
Lift the presser foot lifter to raise the presser foot bar.
Remove the presser foot holder by unscrewing (counterclockwise) the presser bar attaching screw.
a
b
c
Attach the Walking Foot to the machine as follows:
- The arm (a) should fit into above the needle screw and clamp (b).
- Slide the plastic attaching head (c) from your left to right so that it is fitted into the presser foot bar.
- Lower the presser foot bar.
- Replace and tighten (clockwise) the presser bar attaching screw.
- Make sure both the needle screw and the presser bar attaching screw are tightly secured.
Draw the bobbin thread up and place both the bobbin thread and the needle thread behind the walking foot attachment.
Mirror Stitch Pattern - model 25
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All patterns that can be mirrored are shown in the picture on the left
Please Note:
Special Functions
.
61
Select the pattern. ( ) Press the function button to open the
function program.
Please Note:
Initially both mirror and twin needle symbol are flashing at the same speed.
Use selector wheel to scroll to the mirror function.
Please Note:
When starting to scroll only the selected function will flash.
Press Set/disp tobutton toggle mirror function
and memorize it.
E.g.29
AB
Please Note:
Mirror imaged patterns can also be combined with other patterns.
A. Normal pattern sewing. B. Mirror pattern sewing.
Special Functions
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Twin Needle Sewing - model 25
T
2.0~5.0
Please Note:
Twin needles must be purchased separately. They are not include with this machine.
Insert the twin needle.
Attention:
When using twin needles, use the all purpose foot.
Use only twin needle assemblies with max. 2mm needle distance (i.e. bernette part number 502020.62.91)
Follow the instructions for single-needle threading using the horizontal spool pin. Thread through the left needle.
Set the spool pin (included with the accessories) into the hole on the top of the machine.
Thread through , making
the same path certain to omit the thread guide above the needle and pass thread through the right needle.
Thread each needle separately.
Please make note:
Make sure that the two threads used to thread the twin needle are of the same weight. You can use one or two colors.
Select the pattern. Press the function button to open the
function program.
Please Note:
- Pattern 10 , 50-60 and alphabets cannot
be used for twin needle sewing.
Special Functions
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Use selector wheel to scroll to the twin needle function.
Please Note:
Initially both mirror and twin needle symbol are flashing at the same speed. When starting to scroll only the selected function will flash.
Press Set/disp tobutton toggle twin needle
function and memorize it.
The machine automatically reduces the maximum width for twin needle sewing.
63
Start to sew and two lines of stitching are sewn parallel to each other.
Please Note:
- When sewing with twin needle, always proceed slowly, and make sure to maintain a low speed to insure quality stitching.
hen twin needle is selected it will remain
-W
on, even if the stitch is changed. To reset twin needle select by selection function twin needle once again.
Special Functions
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Memory - model 25
Several stitch patterns may be combined to one sewing sequence using the memory function. These pattern sequences are stored for later use. Even when the sewing machine is switched off the memory contents are retained.
Please Note:
- The machine provides one memory with 30 .
- Multiple patterns can be selected from the pattern selection by numbers group or the alphabet group and then sewn together.
- Pattern 10 and 50-60 cannot be stored.
- While the machine is sewing the memory patterns, the reverse button can not be operated.
positions
Enter a sequence of stitch patterns
Press the memory button to enter the memory enter mode, and store the combination of characters or decorative stitches.
1st memory position
1st memory position
After pressing memory button, the stitch number starts flashing.
Memory mode active is shown by " " indication under the stitch number.
Press the pattern group selection button twice to select Alphabet pattern group .
If a pattern has already been saved the stitch number will not flash. See Review and edit stored stitches on page 68.
Use selector wheel to select the desired stitch.
E.g.25
Please Note:
Before enter the stitch:
- The parameters of the selected stitch, such as stitch length and stitch width, mirroring and twin needle, may be adjusted by pressing the corresponding button.
- The stitch can be test sewn by pressing the start/stop button or the foot controller.
Note, that the machine will automatically stop sewing at the end of the stitch.
Special Functions
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1st memory position
2ed memory position
Press set/disp button to memorize it. After pressing, set the memory position (01
for the first) is shown on the stitch display for 2 seconds.
Then stitch number continues to flash with the last programmed stitch.
Repeat above-mentioned steps for more patterns to be stored in the memory.
Please Note:
- After button memorize
Press set/disp to
stitch, p
ress the start/stop button or step on the foot controller to start the current stitch.
.
test sewing
- When the memory is full with 30 units of patterns, the machine will beep beeps
.
3-short
Press the memory button to leave the memory mode return to the normal modeand .
Special Functions
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memory enter mode
memory review/edit mode
Switching between memory and review/edit
mode
enter
When no data in memory, press the memory button to enter the memory enter mode; O , press the memory button to enter
therwise
the memory
review/edit
mode.
Please observe the stitch number position on the screen:
- Stitch number position flashing - memory
mode.
enter
- Stitch number position not flashing ­memory
Press the to switch
review/edit
set/disp
button twins
mode.
between the two modes.
1st memory position
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Special Functions
Recalling and sewing the memorized pattern
Press the memory button to enter the memory mode, the screen shows the stitch of the 1st memory .position
Press the start/stop button or step on the foot controller to start the sewing.
67
The screen will show while sewing.
sewing stitch data
Special Functions
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68
1st memory position
Review and edit stored stitches
Press the memory button to enter the memory ( , the screen shows the stitch of the 1st memory .
review/edit)
mode
position
2nd memory position
2nd memory position
1st memory position
Use selector wheel to navigate to different
and to review the parameters set.stitches
To change the stitch or parameters press the stitch/alphabet, stitch length, stitch width, or function key.
Press set/disp button to store the changes and to go back into memory review/edit mode.
Press set/disp button will with no parameter flashing alter the display to show the memory position of the current stitch.
Special Functions
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69
3rd memory position
Scroll through the mem location numbers with the reach a certain
selector wheel to
memory position.
Press set/disp
review/edit
again to return thebutton
mode.memory
Press the memory button to leave the memory mode return to the normal modeand .
Special Functions
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1st memory position
2nd memory position
Replace a stored stitch
Press the memory button to enter the memory ( , the screen shows the stitch of the 1st memory .
review/edit)
mode
position
Use selector wheel to select the stitch that you want to replace
2nd memory position
2nd memory position
Press the p selection button.,attern group
the
stitch number starts flashing.
Use selector wheel to select desired stitch. (E.g.47)
Please Note:
Before enter the stitch:
- The parameters of the selected stitch, such as stitch length and stitch width, mirroring and twin needle, may be adjusted by pressing the corresponding button.
- The stitch can be test sewn by pressing the start/stop button or the foot controller.
Note, that the machine will automatically stop sewing at the end of the stitch.
Press Set/disp to and the memory
button
review/edit
store return to
mode.
Press the memory button to leave the memory mode return to the normal modeand .
1st memory position
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Special Functions
Insert an additional stitch
Press the memory button to enter the memory , the screen shows the stitch of the 1st memory .
review/edit
mode
position
71
3rd memory position
3rd memory position
Use selector wheel to select the stitch that you want to insert a new stitch before it.
i.e. If 3rd memory position is selected, the original memorized pattern will be moved from 3rd to 4th .position
Press the function button to open the function program.
Please Note:
Initially all the function symbol are flashing at the same speed. When starting to scroll only the selected function will flash.
3rd memory position
Use selector wheel to scroll to the insert function.
Special Functions
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3rd memory position
3rd memory position
Press Set/disp button to insert an empty memory position.
Use selector wheel to select the desired stitch. (E.g.35)
Please Note:
Before enter the stitch:
- The parameters of the selected stitch, only stitch length and stitch width can be adjusted.
- The stitch can be test sewn by pressing the start/stop button or the foot controller.
Note, that the machine will automatically stop sewing at the end of the stitch.
3rd memory position
Press Set/disp to and the memory
button
review/edit
store return to
mode
Please Note:
- To mirror inserted stitch or to select Twin needle for inserted stitch, press func button and use selector wheel to select desired function.
Press the memory button to leave the memory mode return to the normal modeand .
1st memory position
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Special Functions
Delete a stitch
Press the memory button to enter the memory , the screen shows the stitch of the 1st memory .
review/edit
mode
position
73
2nd memory position
2nd memory position
Use selector wheel to select the stitch that you want to delete.
Press the function button to open the function program.
Please Note:
Initially all the function symbol are flashing at the same speed. When starting to scroll only the selected function will flash.
2nd memory position
Use selector wheel to scroll to the delete function.
Special Functions
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2nd memory position
2nd memory position
Press Set/disp to and review/edit
return to the memory
button
delete the pattern
mode.
All upper patterns will be moved one memory position .
down
Delete All
If you want to delete all stitches, press the function button to open the function program.
2nd memory position
2nd memory position
Use selector wheel to scroll to the delete ALL function.
Press set/disp all stored stitches return to the memory
mode.
enter
button
and
for 2 seconds to delete
Warning Functions
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Special Functions
Warning display
The sewing machine is
The exclamation icon means that the thread is twisted or jammed and the hand wheel cannot move.
The motor control will disable the power to the motor and all LED's in the parameter section (right side of the machines) are switched off while all 5 LED's on the head of the machine start flashing for 2 seconds.
Please look through the "Trouble shooting guide" on page 77/78 to
Beeping sound
- When operating correctly: 1 beep
- When operating incorrectly: 3-short beeps
- When the sewing machine is blocked: 3­short beeps
- When the memory is full: 3-short beeps
blocked
or the fabric is too thick
resolve the problem.
75
Return bobbin winder spindle to left
If you press any button on the machine when the bobbin is full or the bobbin winder is in the right position, then the machine will beep 3 times as a warning. Return the bobbin winder spindle to the left position.
Note:
When the bobbin winder is pushed to the right, The machine will display the symbol " "
spindle
Maintenance
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Cleaning
Caution:
Turn main switch off ("O") Disconnect machine from electricity supply before inserting or removing any parts and before cleaning.
Remove the stitch plate Raise the needle to its highest position. Remove the presser
foot. Open the bobbin cover plate, remove the two screws, then remove the stitch plate.
Press the bobbin holder toward to the right, lift it up and remove it.
Clean the hook race.
Clean the feed dog and bobbin holder with a brush, then clean them with a soft, dry cloth.
Replace the bobbin holder into the hook race so that the tip (a) fits to the stopper (b). Replace the stitch plate and the two screws. Insert the bobbin. Close the bobbin cover plate, replace the presser foot.
Important:
ab
Fabric, fluff and threads must be removed regularly.
The drop-in system MUST NOT be lubricated.
Your machine should be serviced at regular intervals at your local dealer.
Replacing the LED Lamp
This appliance is equipped with a durable LED illumination, which is expected to last for the whole lifetime of the equipment. Please contact a local service agent, should the lamp nevertheless require to be replaced
Trouble Shooting
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Trouble shooting guide
Before calling for service, check the following items. If the problem still persists, contact the place of purchase or your nearest authorized dealer.
77
Problem
Upper thread
breaks
Lower thread
breaks
Skipped
stitches
Needle
breaks
Loose
stitches
Seam
gather or
pucker
Cause
1. The machine is not threaded correctly.
2. The thread tension is too tight.
3. The thread is too thick for the needle.
4. The needle is not inserted correctly.
5. The thread is wound around the spool pin.
6. The needle is damaged.
1. The bobbin case is not inserted correctly.
2. The bobbin case is threaded wrong.
3. The lower thread tension is too tight.
1. The needle is not inserted correctly.
2. The needle is damaged.
3. The wrong size needle has been used.
4. The foot is not attached correctly.
5. The machine is not threaded correctly.
6. The presser foot pressure is not strong enough.
1. The needle is damaged.
2. The needle is not correctly inserted.
3. Wrong needle size for the fabric.
4. The wrong foot is attached.
5. The needle clamp screw is loose.
6. The presser foot that is used is not appropriate for the type of stitch pattern that you wish to sew.
7. The upper thread tension is too tight.
1. The machine is not correctly threaded.
2. The bobbin case is not correctly threaded.
3. Needle/fabric/thread combination is wrong.
4. Thread tension is wrong.
1. The needle is too thick for the fabric.
2. The stitch length is adjusted wrong.
3. The thread tension is too tight.
Correction Reference
1. Rethread the machine.
2. Reduce the thread tension. (Lower number).
3. Select a larger needle.
4. Remove and reinsert the needle (flat side towards the back).
5. Remove the reel and wind thread onto reel.
6. Replace the needle.
1. Remove and reinsert the bobbin case and pull on the thread. The thread should pull easily.
2. Check both bobbin and bobbin case.
3. Adjusting thread tension as described.
1. Remove and reinsert needle(flat side towards the back).
2. Insert a new needle.
3. Choose a needle to suit the thread.
4. Check and attach correctly.
5. Rethread the machine.
6. Adjusting the presser foot pressure.
1. Insert a new needle.
2. Insert the needle correctly (flat side towards the back).
3. Choose a needle to suit the thread and fabric.
4. Select the correct foot.
5. Use the screwdriver to firmly tighten the screw.
6. Attach the presser foot that is appro­priate for the type of stitch that you wish to sew.
7. Loosen the upper thread tension.
1. Check the threading.
2. Thread the bobbin case as illustrated.
3. The needle size must suit the fabric and thread.
4. Correct the thread tension.
1. Select a finer needle.
2. Readjust the stitch length.
3. Loosen the thread tension.
13
17
20
16
13
16
12
12
17
16
16
20
31-32
13
17
16 20
20
31-32
16
31-32
17
13
10
20
17
20
29
17
Trouble Shooting
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78
Problem
Seam
puckering
Patterns are
distorted
The
machine
jams
The
machine is
noisy
Uneven
stitches,
uneven feed
The sewing
machine
doesn't
operate
Cause
1. The needle thread tension is too tight.
2. The needle thread is not threaded correctly.
3. The needle is too heavy for the fabric being sewn.
4. The stitch length is too long for the fabric.
5. The presser foot pressure is not correctly adjusted.
1. The correct presser foot is not used.
2. The needle thread tension is too tight.
1. Thread is caught in the hook.
2. The feed dogs are packed with lint.
1. Fluff have collected on the hook or needle bar.
2. The needle is damaged.
3. Slight humming sound coming from internal motor.
4. Thread is caught in the hook.
5. The feed dogs are packed with lint.
1. Poor quality thread.
2. The bobbin case is threaded wrong.
3. Fabric has been pulled.
1. The machine is not turned on. 1. Turn on the machine.
2. The machine is not plugged in.
1. Lossen the thread tension.
2. Rethread the machine.
3. Choose a needle to suit the thread and fabric.
4. Make stitch dense.
5. Adjusting the presser foot pressure.
1. Select the correct foot.
2. Loosen the thread tension .
Remove the upper thread and bobbin case, turn the handwheel backwards and forwards by hand and remove the thread remnants.
1. Clean the hook and feed dog as described.
2. Replace the needle.
3. Normal.
Remove the upper thread and bobbin case, turn the handwheel backwards and forwards by hand and remove the thread remnants.
1. Select a better quality thread.
2. Remove the bobbin case, the thread and reinsert correctly.
3. Do not pull on the fabric while sewing, let it be taken up by the machine.
2. Connect the power line plug to the electric outlet.
Correction Reference
17 13
20
29
17
31-32
17
76
76
16
--
76
20
76
--
8
8
502020.75.28_021H2D0101_1010_IM_bernette 20 25_EN
For more information visit
www.mybernette.com
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