Bernette 25, 20 User Manual

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world

bernette

Instruction Manual

Safety Instructions

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IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

When using an electrical appliance, basic safety precautions should always be followed, including the following:

Read all instructions before using this sewing machine. Keep the instruction at a suitable place close to the machine, and hand it over if you give the machine to a third party.

DANGER

To reduce the risk of electric shock:

1. An appliance should never be left unattended when plugged in.

2. Always unplug this appliance from the electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.

WARNING

To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons:

1. This appliance is not intended for use by persons (including children) with reduced physical, sensory or mental capabilities, or lack of experience and knowledge, unless they have been given supervision or instruction concerning use of the appliance by a person responsible for their safety.

2. Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when this appliance is used by or near children and infirm persons.

3. Use this appliance only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.

4. Children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with the appliance.

5. Never operate this appliance if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the appliance to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.

6. Never operate the appliance with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the sewing machine and foot controller free from accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth.

7. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the sewing machine needle.

8. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.

9. Do not use bent needles.

10. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break.

11. Switch the sewing machine off ("O") when making any adjustments in the needle area, such as threading needle, changing needle, threading bobbin, or changing presser foot, and the like.

12. Always unplug sewing machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when making any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual (pull power plug).

13. Never drop or insert any object into any opening.

14. Do not use outdoors.

15. Do not operate where aerosol spray products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.

16. To disconnect, turn all controls to the off ("O") position, then remove plug from outlet.

Safety Instructions

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17. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord.

18. If the supply cord fixed with foot controller is damaged, it must be replaced by the manufacturer or its service agent or a similar qualified person in order to avoid a hazard.

19. Never place anything on the foot control.

20. This sewing machine is provided with double insulation (except U.S.A / Canada). Use only identical replacement parts. See instructions for Servicing of double-insulated products.

SERVICING OF DOUBLE-INSULATED PRODUCTS

In a double-insulated product, two systems of insulation are provided instead of grounding. No grounding means is provided on a double-insulated product nor should a means for grounding be added to the product. Servicing a double-insulated product requires extreme care and knowledge of the system and should only be done by qualified service personnel. Replacement parts for a double-insulated product must be identical to those parts in the product. A double insulated product is marked with the words "DOUBLE INSULATION" or "DOUBLE INSULATED".

The symbol may also be marked on the product.

SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS

This sewing machine is intended for household use only.

ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION

BERNINA is committed to the protection of the environment. We strive to minimize the environmental impact of our products by continuously improving product design and our technology of manufacturing.

Do not dispose of electrical appliances as unsorted municipal waste, use separate collection facilities.

Contact your local government for information regarding the collection systems available.

If electrical appliances are disposed of in landfills or dumps, hazardous substances can leak into the groundwater and get into the food chain, damaging your health and well-being.

When replacing old appliances with new ones, the retailer is legally obligated to take back your old appliance for disposal at least for free of charge.

LED RADIATION

Do not view directly with optical instruments Class 1M LED product

Safety Instructions

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Attention:

This sewing machine is intended for household use only. If used intensively or commercially, regular cleaning and especially attentive care is required. Signs of wear and tear owing to intensive or commercial use are not covered automatically, even if they occur within the warranty period. The decision on how to deal with any such cases rests with the local authorised servicing staff.

For technical and product improvement reasons, the sewing computer's features, parts and accessory are subject to unannounced changes and alterations at any time. The accessory included can differ from country to country.

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Contents

Safety Instructions 1

Contents 4

Machine Overview 5

Detail of the Machine 5

Accessories - model 20 6

Accessories - model 25 7

Machine Setup 8

Connecting the Machine 8

Foot Control 8

Sewing Table 9

Winding the Bobbin 10

Inserting the Bobbin 12

Threading the Upper Thread 13

Needle Threader 15

Replacing the Needle 16

Thread Cutter 16

Thread Tension 17

Adjusting Presser Foot Pressure 17

Changing the Presser Foot 18

Two-Step Presser Foot 19

To Raise or Drop the Feed Dog 19

Important Sewing Information 20

Needle, Fabric, Thread Selection Guide 20

Presser Foot Application Chart-model 20 21

Presser Foot Application Chart-model 25 22

Basic Sewing Procedures 34

Useful Skills 34

Straight Stitches and Needle Position 36

Zigzag Stitches 36

Stretch Stitch 37

Overcasting Stitches 38

Blind Hem 39

Button Sewing 40

Buttonhole Stitching 41

Eyelet Stitch 44

Darning Stitch 45

Zipper Insertion 47

Invisible zipper insertion 49

Narrow Hemming 50

Cording 51

Satin Stitch Sewing 52

Quilting 53

Fagoting 55

Scallop Stitch 55

Gathering 56

Smocking 57

Free Motion Darning, Embroidery and Monogramming 58

Walking Foot 60

Special Functions 61

Mirror Stitch Pattern - model 25 61

Twin Needle Sewing - model 25 62

Memory - model 25 64

Warning Functions 75

Display Explanation 23

Information on the LED Display 23

Operating Instructions 26

Buttons Explanation 26

Function Buttons 27

Stitches Overview 31

Maintenance 76

Cleaning 76

Replacing the LED Lamp 76

Trouble Shooting 77

Trouble Shooting Guide 77

Detail of the Machine

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Machine Overview

1 2 3

6 7

8 9

1. Spool pin

2. Thread tension dial

3. Thread guide

4. Presser foot pressure screw

5. Slide speed

6. Start/stop button

7. Auto-lock button

8. Needle up/down button

9. Reverse button

10. Thread cutter

11. Needle threader

12. Needle plate cover

13. Sewing table and accessory box

14. Top cover

15. Hole for second spool pin

16. Bobbin winder

17. Bobbin stopper

18. Bobbin winder pre-tension

19. Pattern group selection button

20. Stitch length button

21. Stitch width button

22. Function button (model 25)

23. Memory button (model 25)

24. Handwheel

25. Selector wheel

26. Set/disp button

27. Power switch

28. Mains plug socket

29. Foot controller socket

30. Handle

31. One step buttonhole lever

32. Presser foot lever

33. Presser foot

34. Drop feed lever

Machine Overview

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Accessories - model 20

Standard

123

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109

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15 16

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1. All purpose foot (T)

2. Button sewing foot

3. Buttonhole foot (D)

4. Satin stitch foot (A)

5. Overcasting foot (E)

6. Blind hem foot (F)

7. Spool holder (Large)

8. Spool holder (Small)

9. Bobbin(3x)

10. Spool pin felt

11. Second spool pin

12. Pack of needles

13.

Edge/quilting guide

14. Brush/ Seam ripper

15. Screwdriver

16. L-Screwdriver

17. Dust cover

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Optional (to be purchased individually)

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18. Zipper foot (I)

19. Darning/ Embroidery foot

20. Invisible Zipper foot

21. Hemmer foot (K)

22. Cording foot (M)

23. Gathering foot

24. 1/4" Quilting foot

25. Twin needle

26. Walking foot

Accessories - model 25

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Standard

1234

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15 16

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Machine Overview

1. All purpose foot (T)

2. Zipper foot (I)

3. Button sewing foot

4. Buttonhole foot (D)

5. Satin stitch foot (A)

6. Overcasting foot (E)

7. Darning/ Embroidery foot

8. Blind hem foot (F)

9. Spool holder (Large)

10. Spool holder (Small)

11. Bobbin(3x)

12. Spool pin felt

13. Second spool pin

14. Pack of needles

15. Edge/quilting guide

16. Brush/ Seam ripper

17. L-Screwdriver

18. Screwdriver

19. Dust cover

Optional

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(to be purchased individually)

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20. Invisible Zipper foot

21. Hemmer foot (K)

22. Cording foot (M)

23. Gathering foot

24. 1/4" Quilting foot

25. Twin needle

26. Walking foot

Machine Setup

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Connecting the Machine

Before connecting the power supply, make sure that the voltage and frequency shown on the rating plate is conforming with your mains power.

Place the machine on a stable table.

1. Connect the power line cord to the machine by inserting the 2-hole plug into the

mains plug socket.

2. Connect the power line plug to the wall outlet.

3. Turn on the power switch.

4. The sewing lamp will light up when the switch is turned on.

Caution:

Always make sure that the machine is unplugged from power source and the main switch is on "O". when the machine is not in use and before inserting or removing parts.

Foot Control

Polarized plug information

This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other), to reduce the risk of electrical shock; this plug will fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way.

With the sewing machine turned off, insert the foot control plug into its connector on the sewing machine.

Turn on the sewing machine, and then slowly depress the foot control to start sewing. Release the foot control to stop the sewing machine.

Attention:

Consult a qualified electrician if in doubt as how to connect the machine to the power source. Unplug the power cord when the machine is not in use.

Use only foot controller type C-9000 manufactured by CHIEN HUNG TAIWAN., LTD. with sewing machine model 20 and 25.

Sewing Table

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Machine Setup

Keep the snap-in sewing table horizontal, and pull it in the direction of the arrow.

The inside of the snap-in sewing table is used as an accessory box.

To open, tilt the cover towards you.

Machine Setup

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Winding the Bobbin

1. Place the thread and spool holder onto the spool pin. For smaller spools of thread, place spool holder with the

small side next to the spool or use the small spool holder.

2. Snap the thread into the upper thread guide .

3. Wind the thread clockwise around the bobbin winder tension discs.

4. Place the thread end through one of the inner holes in the bobbin as illustrated and place empty bobbin on the spindle.

5. Push the bobbin to right.

Machine Setup

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Note:

When the bobbin winder is pushed to the right, The

spindle

machine will display the symbol " "

6. Hold the thread tail securely in one hand.

7. Press on the foot control or the Start/Stop button to start

winding the bobbin.

8. After the bobbin has wound a few turns stop the machine

and cut the thread near the hole of the bobbin. Continue filling the bobbin until it is full.

The motor stops automatically when the bobbin is full. Stop the machine. Push the bobbin winder spindle to left.

9. Cut the thread and then remove the bobbin.

Note:

When the bobbin winder is placed on the right, "bobbin

spindle

winding position", the machine will not sew and the handwheel will not turn. To start sewing, push the bobbin winder spindle to the left "sewing position".

Machine Setup

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Inserting the Bobbin

Attention:

- Turn power switch to "O" before threading or unthreading the

machine.

- The thread take-up lever must be in the highest position when

threading.

- A wrong threading in can cause damages to the machine!

To open the bobbin cover, slide it against you. Inserting the bobbin in the bobbin holder with the thread running

counter clockwise direction.

Pull the thread along the arrow marking through the slit under the finger (A) as far as the pulley (B).

To make sure that the thread is pulled into the tension spring of the bobbin holder, press a finger slightly onto the bobbin while pulling. As a check you must feel a resistance in the thread feed.

Pull the thread at the arrow markings into the stitch plate thread guide from (B) to (C).

To cut off excess thread pull thread back over the cutting off blade at point (C).

To close the bobbin cover, push it to the back.

Threading the Upper Thread

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Machine Setup

Please Note:

It is important to carry out the threading correctly as by not doing so several sewing problems could result.

Start by raising the needle to its highest point, and also raise the presser foot to release the tension discs.

1. Lift up the spool pin until it is snaped-in in the middle position. Place the spool of thread on the spool pin so that the thread comes from the front of the spool, then place the spool cap at the end of the spool pin.

2. Snap the thread into the upper thread guide .

Machine Setup

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3. Pull the thread forward and down. This operation pulls the thread into the thread tension.

4. Then further down and around the bottom part of the take up lever cover.

5. At the top of this movement, pass the thread from right to the left through the slotted eye of the take-up lever and then downwards again.

6. Guide the thread through the wire loop.

7. Pull the end of the thread through the needle from front to rear, and pull out about 10 cm of thread.

Use the face plate thread cutter to cut excess needle thread. Use the needle threader to thread the needle (refer to next

page for instruction).

Needle Threader

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Machine Setup

Raise the needle to its highest position and lower the presser foot.

Attention:

Turn power switch to the off position ("O").

Lower the needle threader lever slowly and draw the thread through the thread guide as illustrated and then to the right.

The needle threader automatically turns to the threading position and the hook pin passes through the needle eye.

Pull the thread to the right, guiding it to the front of the needle

Hold the thread loosely and release the lever slowly.

The hook will turn and pass the thread through the needle eye forming a loop.

Pull the thread through the needle eye.

Machine Setup

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Replacing the Needle

Attention:

Turn power switch to off ("O") when carrying out the below operation!

Change the needle regularly, especially if it is showing signs of wear and causing problems.

Insert the needle following the illustrated instructions.

A. Loosen the needle clamp screw and

tighten again after inserting the new needle. The flat side of the shaft should be towards the back.

B. Insert the needle as far up as it will go.

Needles must be in perfect condition.

Problems can occur with:

- Bent needles

- Blunt needles

- Damaged points

Thread Cutter

The thread cutter serves two purposes.

1. Cut the thread after threading the needle

2. Cut the thread after finishing a seam.

To cut the thread after completing your work raise the presser foot.

Remove the fabric, draw the threads to the left side of the face cover and cut using the thread cutter.

The threads are cut at the proper length to start the next seam.

Thread Tension

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TightLoose

Machine Setup

- Basic thread tension setting: "4"

- To increase the tension, turn the dial to the next number up. To

reduce the tension, turn the dial to the next number down.

- Proper setting of tension is important to good sewing.

- For all decorative sewing you will always obtain a nicer stitch

and less fabric puckering when the upper thread appears on the bottom side of your fabric.

Reverse side

Surface

Normal thread tension for straight stitch sewing.

Upper thread

Bobbin thread

Thread tension is too loose for straight stitch sewing. Turn dial to higher number.

Thread tension is too tight for straight stitch sewing. Turn dial to lower number.

Normal thread tension for zig zag and decorative sewing.

Adjusting Presser Foot Pressure

The presser foot pressure of the machine has been pre-set and requires no particular readjustment according to the type of fabric (light-or-heavy weight).

However, if you need to adjust the presser foot pressure, turn the presser adjusting screw with a coin.

For sewing very thin fabric, loosen the pressure by turning the screw counter-clockwise, and for heavy fabric, tighten by turning it clockwise.

To return to initial pressure foot setting turn the pressure adjusting screw to become flush with the face cover.

Machine Setup

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Changing the Presser Foot

Turn power switch to off ("O") when carrying out any of the below operations!

Attention:

Attaching the presser foot holder

Raise the presser foot bar (a). Attach the presser foot holder (b) as illustrated.

Attaching the presser foot

Lower the presser foot holder (b) until the cut-out (c) is directly above the pin (d).

Press the black lever (e). Lower the presser foot holder (b) and the presser foot (f) will

engage automatically.

Removing the presser foot

Raise the presser foot.

Press the black lever (e) and the foot will disengages.

Attaching the guideedge/quilting

Attach the guide (g) in the slot as illustrated. Adjust according to need for hems, pleats, etc.

edge/quilting

Two-Step Presser Foot

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Machine Setup

The presser foot lever raises and lowers your presser foot.

When sewing several layers of thick fabric, the presser foot can be raised to a second stage by pushing the presser foot lever further up. This allows for easy positioning of the work.

To Raise or Drop the Feed Dogs

With the sewing table detached, the drop feed lever can be located on the back of the free arm.

Sliding the lever to the " " (b) will lower

the feed dog, for example during button sewing or freehand embroidery.

If you wish to continue sewing normally, slide the lever to the " " (a) in order to raise the feed dogs.

The feed dog if you do not turn the handwheel, even if the lever is slid to the right. Make a complete turn to raise the feed dogs.

will not rise up

Important Sewing Information

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Needle, Fabric, Thread Selection Guide

Important:

The thread is chosen according to use. For a perfect sewing result, thread and fabric quality play an important role. It is recommended to use quality brands.

Care must be taken when choosing needle and thread. The correct needle size depends on the selected thread and fabric. The fabric weight and type determine the thread weight, needle size and point form.

Needle size Fabrics Thread

9-11/65-75

Lightweight fabrics-thin cottons, voile, serge, silk, muslin, Qiana, interlocks, cotton knits, tricots, jerseys, crepes, woven polyester, shirt & blouse fabrics.

Light-duty thread in cotton, nylon or polyester.

12/80

14/90

16/100

18/110

Medium weight fabrics-cotton, satin, kettleclote, sailcloth, double knits, lightweight woollens.

Medium weight fabrics-cotton duck, woolen, heavier knits, terrycloth, denims.

Heavyweight fabrics-canvas, woolens, outdoor tent and quilted fabrics, denims, upholstery material (light to medium).

Heavy woollens, overcoat fabrics, upholstery fabrics, some leathers and vinyls.

Most threads sold are medium size and suitable for these fabrics and needle sizes.

Use polyester threads on synthetic materials and cotton on natural woven fabrics for best results.

Always use the same thread on top and bottom.

Heavy duty thread, carpet thread. (Use heavy foot pressurelarge numbers.)

NEEDLE, FABRIC SELECTION

Needles Explanation Type of fabric

HA x 1

15x1

15x1/ 130/ 705H

15 x 1/ 130/ 705H (SUK)

Standard sharp needles. Sizes range thin to large. 9 (65) to 18 (110)

Semi-ball point needle, scarfed. 9 (65) to 18 (110)

Full ball point needle 9 (65) to 18 (110)

Natural woven fabrics-wool, cotton, silk, etc. Qiana. Not recommended for double knits.

Natural and synthetic woven fabrics, polyester blends. Knits-polyesters, interlocks, tricot, single and double knits. Can be used instead of 15x1 for sewing all fabrics.

Sweater knits, Lycra, swimsuit fabric, elastic.

130PCL/ 705H-LR/LL

Leather needles. 12 (80) to 18 (110)

Note:

- Twin needles can be purchased for utility and decorative work.

- European needles show sizes 65, 70, 80 etc. American and Japanese needles show size 9, 11, 12 etc.

- Replace needle often (approximately every other garment ) and / or at first thread breakage or skipped stitches.

Leather, vinyl, upholstery. (Leaves smaller hole than standard large needle.

Important Sewing Information

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Presser Foot Application Chart - model 20

Double needle is being suggested for certain stitches for more creativity

All purpose foot (T)

Zipper foot (I) *

Button sewing foot

Buttonhole foot (D)

APPLICATIONPRESSER FOOT

General sewing, Patchwork stitches, Decorative stitching, Smocking, Fagoting, etc.

Inserting zippers

Button sewing

Buttonhole sewing

NEEDLE NEEDLE

PRESSER FOOT APPLICATION

Blind hem stitching

Blind hem foot (F)

Narrow hemming

Hemmer foot (K) *

Cording

Cording foot (M) *

Inserting

zippersinvisible

Invisible Zipper foot *

Satin stitch foot (A)

Overcasting foot (E)

1/4" Quilting foot *

Darning/ Embroidery foot *

Satin stitch sewing

Overcasting

Quilting and pacthwork sewing

Darning Free embroidery Monogramming

Gathering

Gathering foot *

This foot helps to prevent uneven feeding of very difficult fabrics

Walking foot *

Twin needle *

* Available as optional accessories

Important Sewing Information

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Presser Foot Application Chart - model 25

Double needle is being suggested for certain stitches for more creativity

All purpose foot (T)

Zipper foot (I)

Button sewing foot

Buttonhole foot (D)

APPLICATIONPRESSER FOOT

General sewing, Patchwork stitches, Decorative stitching, Smocking, Fagoting, etc.

Inserting zippers

Button sewing

Buttonhole sewing

NEEDLE NEEDLE

PRESSER FOOT APPLICATION

Blind hem stitching

Blind hem foot (F)

Narrow hemming

Hemmer foot (K) *

Cording

Cording foot (M) *

Inserting

zippersinvisible

Invisible Zipper foot *

Satin stitch foot (A)

Overcasting foot (E)

1/4" Quilting foot *

Darning/ Embroidery foot

Satin stitch sewing

Overcasting

Quilting and pacthwork sewing

Darning Free embroidery Monogramming

Gathering

Gathering foot *

This foot helps to prevent uneven feeding of very difficult fabrics

Walking foot *

Twin needle *

* Available as optional accessories

Information on the LED Display

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Display Explanation

89 10

Normal mode display - model 25

Auto-lock

Reverse

Pattern group

Stitch number

Stitch length

Stitch width

Needle stop down

Auto-stop on pattern end

Machine running

10.

Pattern Mirrored function

11.

Twin needle function

12.

Alphabets group

+ 56 hidden pages

Bernette 25, 20 User Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual