Bally Refrigerated Boxes 500, 1000 Installation And Operation Manual

1-800-24 BALLY

Bally Refrigerated Boxes, Inc.

www.ballyrefboxes.com

IM-359-11 2011© Bally Refrigerated Boxes, Inc

Installation and Operation Manual

Northwind Blast Chiller

Models: 500 and 1000

.

1

Introduction

READ ENTIRE MANUAL BEFORE BEGINNING INSTALLATION!

• There are 9 steps to the installation process. This manual gives you a correct sequence to

follow as you prepare for and carry out installation.

• Prior to the day you make the installation, be sure to review the tool list and parts list, and

the illustrated plan so that you can complete the installation in a reasonable time without
any problems.

• There is also a precise wiring diagram included for any complication and step-by-step

instructions to make the job that much easier.

• No manual can anticipate every field situation, but if there are any questions not answered

here, please feel free to call the Bally Northwind help desk at 800-242-2559. Our staff of
troubleshooters will do their best to assist you.

2

Table of Contents

Title Page Number

Introduction 1

Tool List 4

Parts List 4

Step 1 – Locating the Blast Chiller 5

Step 2 – Panel Preparation 5

Step 3 – Erection of Vertical Panels 6

Step 4 – Installation of Ceiling Panels 7

Step 5 – Secure all Panel Sections 8

Step 6 – Installation of the Controller 8

Step 7 – Installation of Coil & Fan Assemblies 9

Step 8 – Cable Connections 12

Steps 9 - 11 – Final Assembly 12

Operation Introduction 13

1 - Controller Description & Operation 14

2 – The Probes 14

3 – Automatic Mode 14

4 – Defrost Mode 16

5 – Manual Mode 17

6 – The Red Light (Critical Failures) 17

7 – Maintenance Items 18

Major Component of the Blast Chiller Back Cover

3

Note: 012993’s are sometimes left out (see Chapter. 6.3)

4

Bally Northwind Tool List

Two people are required to assemble a Bally Northwind. The following list will assist you on the tools
necessary in the assembly process.

1. Caulk Gun (tube type)

2. Utility Knife (for foam insulation)

3. Foaming Kit (in the general miscellaneous box*)

4. Speed Lock Wrench (in general miscellaneous box*)

5. Tape Measure

6. Level (at least 4 ft.)

7. 5/16 Nut Driver

8. Straight Edge (i.e., carpenters square)

*You will find two Miscellaneous Parts Boxes: the General Box, with parts for the normal walk-in portion of the
job, and the Blast Chiller Miscellaneous Box, with dedicated parts of the Blast Chiller.

Bally Northwind 500 Parts List

1. 23” Panels [3]

2. 34 ½” Panel [1]

3. Corners [4]

4. Ceiling Panels [2]

5. 36” x 78”Door (with electrical junction box, complete with twist-lock plug wiring). [1]

6. Control Panel (with complete twist-lock plug wiring and buzzer with alarm switches) [1]

7. Fan rack (pre-assembled) with twist-lock plug wiring [1]

8. Evaporator Coil (pre-assembled) with twist-lock plug wiring [1]

9. Probes, thermocouple type K [3]

10. Ceiling Plenum with light and twist-lock plug wiring [1]

11. Top Coil Trim with J-box for Thermocouples[1]

12. Top Fan Trim Piece [1] (Angled piece, approx. 4 x 36”)

13. Coil and Fan Trim Pieces[2 each]

14. Top Diagonal Air Deflectors (for above Coil and Fan assembly) [2].

15. Universal food rack with tray supports [1]

16. Door Anchor [2] (UNLESS there is a floor)

17. ¾” Stainless steel plug buttons, type 304 (48)

18. Grey panel gasket for repair of damaged gaskets

5

1. Locating the Blast Chiller

1.1. Using a chalk line and a carpenter’s square, locate on the building floor, the exact dimensions of

the blast chiller as shown in the supplied print. After marking the exterior rectangular

dimensions, measure inward 4” around the perimeter to form an interior rectangle, which locates

the interior blast chiller dimensions.

2. Panel Preparation

2.1. Remove all protective paper from

panels. Leave all special labels on the

skins.

2.2. During the course of installation, the

panels must be caulked for proper seal.

This detail is to be applied to all panel

joints throughout this instruction.

Using the tube of clear silicone

supplied, run two [2] vertical beads of

caulk (see drawing 1.1) on the interior

foam seams.

6

3. Erection of Vertical Panels

Panel assembly sequence of a Northwind 500

3.1 BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO ERECT ANY PREFAB SECTIONS, FAMILIARIZE YOURSELF WITH THE

FOLLOWING CHAPTERS IN THE STANDARD INSTALLATION MANUAL (IM-268-11, Revised

2011):

• Page 4, Section 1

• Page 5, Section 2

Operation of the Bally Speed-Lok

• Page 7, Section 3

Bally Boxes without Floors

3.2 Start by erecting a vertical rear corner

section. When erecting, the holes for the

Speed-Lok wrench must always be on the

left-hand side when facing the interior section.

This is important; crews have installed boxes

upside down.

• The Coil Frame Assembly is installed in the box

before the door is added since the coil is taller than
the opening of the door. You’ll have to slide the
coil out of the way to lock the last corner panel.

• When erecting the front sections of the box, note

that the door latch corner and the door frame
section have a cut out at the top of the panels,
which, when joined, will provide a slot through
which the collar of the control panel will be
inserted.

• Install this cut out corner first, making sure that the

two bottom surfaces in the notch area are perfectly
level.

For the NW 1000 sequence, look in the Appendix.

7

3.3 On each panel, check for proper

Installing Ceiling Panels on the Northwind 1000

and remove the cardboard.

alignment and level. Leveling can be

accomplished by placing wooden shims

under the vertical panels (cross-

reference IM-268-11, Section6).

3.4 Remove the shipping strap attached to

the bottom of the door opening. When

attaching the door, hold a level on the

face of the door section, and when

plumb, Speed-Lok to adjacent corner

section. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT

THE DOOR SECTION IS ALWAYS LEVEL

AND PLUMB.

4. Installation of the Ceiling Panels

4.1. Bring the rear ceiling panel on top of

the front half of the blast chiller.

4.2. Caulk on both sides of the tongues of all the

appropriate rear wall panels.

4.3. Pick up the ceiling panel, bring it back, and

drop it in place. Engage a couple of locks on

the back wall. Do not fully lock.

4.4. Caulk the groove or tongue of the rear

ceiling panel and the rest of the wall tongue

area.

4.5. Bring up the front ceiling panel and lock it to

the back ceiling panel, fully engaging the

Speed-Loks to the lock position on the seam

between the two ceiling panels.

4.6. Make sure the ceiling panels are secured

squarely on the vertical panels. Do not fully

• Install the middle ceiling panel first. The large

panel will align more panels quicker.

• Instead of caulking the tongues, place the

caulk in the corners of the grooves in the
ceiling panel, then lay the ceiling panel on a
piece of cardboard trimmed to size.

• Lift the ceiling and cardboard onto the

verticals, locate the ceiling panel, tilt it up,

lock. Align and adjust accordingly.

4.7. Fully engage the Speed-Loks to the lock

position on the vertical panels to the

ceiling panels.

8

5. Secure all Panel Sections

5.1 After all Speed-Loks are secured, install access hole

plug buttons to all Speed-Lok locations.

5.2 Anchor both sides of the doorframe inside the box to

the floor with “L” braces with 5/16” expansion bolts

and 5/16”hex head self-tapping screws with

shoulders to the door panel.

5.3 Using the silicone supplied, caulk both interior and

exterior of box at floor joints.

5.4 Install SS continuous angle floor anchor (Bally PN

019045) around inside periphery of the box.

6. Installation of the Controller

6.1 Have a partner hold the controller up and feed

the connectors through the controller slot in

the front of the box. Then push the

rectangular collar of the control assembly into

the slot until the base of the controller is

against the face of the blast chiller. Back out

the three screws that hold the front cover onto

the controller base. Remove the controller

cover, and screw the controller base to the wall

panel.

6.2 Two interlocking stainless steel harness covers

lock around the incoming cables of the control

panel. Secure the cover plates to the box front

panels by preparing a pilot home with 1/8” drill

and finishing with ½” stainless steel, self-

tapping, Phillips head sheet metal screws. Fill

the volume with canned foam. Fill any gaps

between the wall panels and the plastic

wrapped chute with canned foam.

6.3 Install the two top ceiling deflectors in the

upper top corners of the sides of the box

9

deflecting the flow of air from the fan frame

Orientation of the Trim Pieces

assembly to the coil frame assembly. Prior to

installing, prepare 1/8” pilot holes and use ¾”

stainless steel, self-tapping, Phillips head sheet

metal screws.

Some tall (over 106”) boxes may not have ceiling deflectors. Check the packing list for PN 012993.

7. Installing Coil and Fan Assembly Frames

7.1 Before you stand up any of the frame assemblies, extend the

legs out to 5.0” (by spinning the foot pads).

7.2 Installing the Coil Frame Assembly

1. Remove the Coil Top Trim, 013121.

2. Install the coil frame into the appropriate side.

3. Center the frame within 1/16” between the two walls.

4. Install screws into the rear top back brace. This will force the

frame against the wall permanently.

5. Reinstall the top coil trim piece. Attach the grey plastic probe

receptacle box (from the controller) into the rectangular hole.

The Bally box design follows certain rules. One of the results is that a wall that two corners on it will be 1½”
narrower than a wall made of a corner and a breaker. As a result of this, there is more room in a NW1000 than a
NW500. To make up for this extra space, the trim pieces are turned with the long legs against the frame on a
NW1000, long legs against the walls on a NW500.

10

7.3 Installing the Fan Frame Assembly

1. First remove the fan guard.

2. Install the frame in the appropriate side and screw

the back braces to the side wall using the same

stainless steel sheet metal screws.

3. Plug in the Air Probe (see connector at top of

picture).

4. Install the two shorter side trim angles on each side

by screwing them to the walls.

5. Replacing the front cover will capture the side trim

pieces between the front cover and the frame.

6. Place the Top Fan Trim Piece between the same

front cover and the frame.

7.4 Installing the Condensate Drain

1. A tube must be installed to drain condensate from

each coil assembly.

2. Find the pan, which is approximately four inches

above floor level on the coil frame. Locate the 90°

Elbow beneath it.

3. You must supply a drain line starting from the ¾” NPT

plastic elbow. You may plumb the line to the front,

rear, or side, as per your convenience. You may use

plastic tubing, PVC pipe, or other pipe. If you are

installing a NW1000, you may join the two runs or

plumb them separately.

4. Drill a hole in the appropriate panel. Caulk the

hole(s) after finishing the plumbing.

11

7.5 Installing the Plenum Supports and Plenum

Interior Plenum Supports on both sides of the

1. At this point, the Front Plenum Support, Fan

Seal Strip, and Coil Top Trim should be in

place. Adjust the side pieces so that they

match the front in height (usually 78”).

2. Add the Interior/Rear Plenum support(s) to the

interior wall of a NW1000. The plenum is

installed on the far side of the wall.

Plenum Installation - The plenum is installed

interior wall (on a NW1000) and rear walls. You

will find screw holes in the walls from our initial

assembly. Use these first.

3. Install the Plenum and see if the

holes line up. Screw the Plenum

to the:

(1) Front Plenum Support, then

(2) The Coil Top Trim*, then

(3) The Fan Top Trim, and finally

(4) The Rear Support (or the

Interior Support for the

NW1000).

with the electrical plug toward the coil frame. Lift

the plenum diagonally over the fan assembly.

Have somebody else plug in the connector, then

raise it until the lowest corner is above all the

plenum supports, then lower it flat.

12

*The priority should be in that order, if the Coil Top Trim holes won’t match up when the plenum is

8.1 Interior Wiring Color Code

screwed to the Front, unscrew the Coil Frame from the wall and shift it over until it fits. The Fan trim piece

can shift side to side with respect to the frame, and you can redrill the holes in the back wall.

8. Cable Connections

• All of the interior wiring is done utilizing

color-coded, twist-lock, watertight plugs

and type J thermocouple plugs. Make sure

all plugs bottom out.

• All interior wiring must be done before the

ceiling plenum is installed.

1. TWIST LOCKS from-

Controller to:

2. “Grey +” = “Back side of NW1000”. For

Grey & Red  rear defrost heaters

3. Type J Thermocouples

Three Cables Terminating at Outlet

Air probe Cable (single black receptacle)

4. Match all of the plugs together according to

Red  defrost heaters
Blue  solenoid valve & defrost

Green  fan motors
Yellow & Brown door junction box

Door junction box to:

White  ceiling plenum light

example:

Box(es)

the color code provided. Ty-Wrap all of the

cords to the bases attached to the walls for

that purpose. You will want to leave the

Plenum down for the refrigeration

technician, and it will not matter as far as

the electricity is concerned if you leave the

plenum out of the blast chiller.

termination

9. Hooking up the System

A properly licensed electrician must next hook

up the system to a shut off attached to a

nearby wall. The electrical specifications are

located on a sticker attached to the controller.

10. Installing Refrigeration

After the unit has power, the refrigeration

technician can install the refrigeration, running

½” and (usually) 1- 1/8” copper tubing through

the provided hole in the ceiling panel. Make

sure the suction tubing is properly wrapped

with Armaflex, and all work is done in good

practice according to local code. Coils arrive

with a holding pressure of 60 psi nitrogen.

11. Setting the Ceiling Plenum

The ceiling plenum can now be set in place,

plugged in, and mounted using black thumb

screws. I you have trouble lining up the holes,

remember that the fan side upper trim is

clamped in place and can be slid forward or

backwards, and you can loosen the trim piece

over the coil frame as well. Also remember

that the interior plenum support angle can be

relocated if need be.

13

Operations Manual

Bally Northwind Blast Chiller

Models: 500 and1000

Introduction

• Before turning the controller on, take the time to ensure that all wire connections are secure and

correctly matched according to the color code set for them.

• Also, inspect all of the external wiring, making sure that all the wiring is correct according to the wiring

specifications included.

• Now that your Bally Northwind Blast Chiller has been completely inspected, installed, and wired you

are now ready for operation.

WARNING: DO NOT OPERATE THE NORTHWIND CONTROLLER WHEN THE CONTROL COVER HAS BEEN

REMOVED (electrical hazard).

14

1. The Control Panel

3. Operating the Blast Chiller

The first pushbutton located to the right is the

manual on/off power switch for the blast chiller.

The red pushbutton to the left of the on/off is

used to silence the alarm buzzer. On the face of

the input screen you see nine buttons;

Left / Right on the left hand side of the screen,

Up / Down on the right hand side of the screen,

F1 thru F4 below the screen, and

Enter in the lower right hand corner.

2. The Probes

3.1. Automatic

The “normal” or default process for running the

blast chiller is Automatic. The operator puts the

food to be chilled into the blast chiller, inserts

the probes into the food such that the tip of the

probes are in the middle of the food, closes the

door, and turns the unit on. After the door is

closed, the fans and refrigeration will turn on.

Both will stay on until the product probe

temperature reaches 36°F, unless:

• The air temperature reaches 5°F. If the air

temperature goes below 5°, the refrigeration

will turn off for three minutes.

• If the door is opened, the fans and refrigeration

will turn off and stay off for three minutes (to

prevent damage to the compressor).

The Control system uses four probes; the

Product probe, the Air probe and the two

Auxiliary probes. The probes measure

temperature for the controller. The product

probe is the probe that plugs into the

receptacle that is the closest to the door. The

air probe is hidden from view, located behind

the fans. It senses the air temperature after it

passes over the food. The auxiliary probes

are the other two plug-in probes that allow

you to monitor two other food locations. The

auxiliary probes are not necessary for proper

functioning of the blast chiller.

Once the product probe reaches 36°, the system

goes into Holding Mode. The refrigeration will

turn off, but the fans will stay on. If the air

temperature should go above 45°, the

refrigeration will turn on for three minutes.

15

3.2 The Display Screens in Automatic:

• While in automatic, you can push the up and

down arrows on the display to page

through information appropriate for this

mode.

• When the automatic mode begins, you will see

the word “AUTO” and the product

temperature in large numbers, so you can

see it from a distance. As you push the

down arrow, you will see the following

screens in this order:

Probe Temperatures

•

Shows the following temperatures;

Air Auxiliary 1

Product Auxiliary 2

Chill Time

•

Indicates how long it has been since the

food probe temperature went below 140°,

the highest temperature that harmful

microbial activity is known to occur.

Refrigeration Status

•

This is an on/off indicator. There is

sometimes an explanation for a certain

refrigeration state

(for instance, if you start the

Special screens

There are other screens that you will see on

special events:

• Product temperature is close to air

temperature

It is assumed that the product temperature

will be significantly above the air

temperature at the beginning of a cooling

cycle. If the product temperature and air

temperature are within 15° of each other,

this screen will appear.

• Product Temperature Reached

The chill process has ended and the unit is

in holding mode.

auto mode, then open and close the door, the

refrigeration will stay off for 3 minutes to keep

the condensing unit from getting damaged)

Fault Page

•

Indicates if there are any faults

broken thermocouple circuits)

.

(such as

.

16

4. Defrost

Defrost Termination System

• Actually a lot of our customers don’t use

defrost. They’ll run the unit for three to six

hours a day, and for the rest of the time it will

remain idle. The temperature in the unit

comes up above freezing and whatever ice is

on the evaporator coils will thaw and drain

from the unit before it gets used again.

• If the performance of your blast chiller seems

to be diminishing, however, your evaporator

coil could be filling up with ice. Run the unit

through a defrost cycle.

• To run defrost, after the unit has completed a

cycle, and you have removed the food cart,

push F2. You will be prompted to insert the

password, which is:

• Push and hold the F1 button until you see 20,

22.

4.1 Defrost 1

During Defrost 1, heaters in the coils will turn on

and heat the coil. They will stay on even if the

door is opened.

two ways: either by a 20 minute timer ending, or

by the Defrost Termination Switch (DTS).

4.2 Defrost 2

Once the defrost cycle ends, there is a

three minute time period where the refrigeration

is turned on but the fans are not. This allows any

The Defrost cycle ends one of

then push the left hand arrow button once to

reach 22.

• After 22 is showing on the screen, hit F2 again.

The DTS has a common wire that connects to one of

two other wires depending on temperature. Once the

switch senses temperature below 20°, it switches to the

“run” wire. It stays there until it senses temperature

above 60°, and then it switches to the “terminate” wire.

In your blast chiller, this “terminate” signal not only ends

the defrost cycle, but if you try to start the defrost cycle

while it is set to “terminate” (meaning the coil hasn’t

gone below 20° yet), it will prevent the defrost cycle

water that is on the coil fins to freeze prior to the

fans turning on. During this time the countdown

to the end is shown.

from starting.

17

5. Manual Mode

To get to Manual Mode:

In Manual Mode, you can leave out the Product

Probe that Auto Mode requires. Instead of

inserting the probe, you program the chiller to chill

for a certain length of time. While running in

manual mode, yet prior to the time ending, it will

behave as it does when in Auto mode when the

product probe is above 36°. After the timer times

out, it will enter Auto holding mode. If the

product probe is plugged in and it its holder, the

blast chiller will use it as a thermostat set to 36°. If

the product probe is not plugged in, it will turn on

Push F3 while in Auto.

when the air probe reads 45°.

The screens in Manual Mode

Manual Mode- This indicates the air

temperature in large letters on the top line,

followed by the total chill time in small

letters and the current time (the time since

the chilling started).

Measured Temperatures - This is screen is

the same as Auto.

Manual Mode Time –This screen is where

you set the time for the manual cycle to

run. Follow the instructions to adjust the

time. Any time changes take effect

immediately.

Refrigeration Status- This is screen is the

same as Auto.

Fault Page- This is screen is the same as

Auto.

You will see the same password entry screen as before.

After entering the password, push F3 again.

6. The Red Light

The red operational error light and alarm turns on

when there is a critical failure. These failures are:

• Air temperature above 100°. If, for some reason,

the refrigeration should fail, the chiller could

become extremely hot as the heat comes out of

the food. Therefore, if the air temperature reaches

100°, the controller will shut everything down.

• Fan contactor failure - If the fan contactor fails, the

fans will fail to come on. The unit will not shut

down, but it will not be cooling (except for a false

alarm).

• Defrost contactor failure – Same thing here.

However, you can still use the blast chiller once

you’re out of Defrost.

• Air probe open – The unit cannot operate if the

controller doesn’t at least have the air temperature

input.

18

7. Maintenance Items for Bally Northwind Blast Chillers

Item

Bally PN

Location/Means of Access

Fan Motor

016915

Inside Fan Frame/Remove entire Fan Cover (not the wire fan

Refrigeration Valve

005424

Part of liquid line, left side of Coil Frame. Remove coil filter and side
cover with 6 black topped screws.

Solenoid

061514

Attached to valve, above.

TXV

000388

Part of Liquid line, see above.

Power Head

099644

Attached to TXV, above (special 60” bulb tube).

Defrost Switch

088779

In the coil frame, top bend, usually on same side as the liquid line.
Wired closely to the coil junction box.

Air Probe

046759

Behind the upper fan motor/ Remove the Fan Cover (not the Wire
Fan guard).

Food Probe

089226

In plain sight. Plugged into top of coil frame.

Light Bulb

none

In plenum. / Unscrew 4 flat head screws with a 2.5mm hex key (not

shipment.

7.1 Maintenance Points

• Probe plugs

guards).

a common size). Hex key is taped to the light at the time of

• Defrost Switch

The temperature probes are low voltage

circuits that are routed through plugs at the

top of the coil frame and behind the fan frame.

If you start getting erroneous probe readings,

use a light abrasive pad (like Scotch-Brite) to

clean the plugs and a Q-tip to clean the

receptacles.

The defrost switch sends a signal back to the

controller indicating the temperature of the

coil. The switch is designed to handle high

amperages and has a life span of about

100,000 cycles. If the switch “fails closed”, you

will not be able to go into defrost, even when

the coil is frozen solid. If it “fails open”, it will go

into defrost every time (even when the blast

chiller interior is at room temperature) and stay

in defrost the full 20 minutes. See the above

information to replace it if you experience

either situation.

19

A Northwind 500 Model is shown. A Northwind 1000 Model is twice as deep with only one controller.

20