Baby Lock Sofia BL137A Instruction and Reference Guide

CONGRATULATIONS ON CHOOSING
Your machine is the most advanced computerized household embroidery and sewing machine. To fully enjoy all the features incorporated, we suggest that you study the manual.
PLEASE READ BEFORE USING THIS MACHINE
For safe operation
1. Be sure to keep your eye on the needle while sewing. Do not touch the handwheel, thread take­up lever, needle, or other moving parts.
2. Remember to turn off the power switch and unplug the cord when:
• Operation is completed
• Replacing or removing the needle or any other parts
• A power failure occurs during use
• Maintaining the machine
• Leaving the machine unattended.
3. Do not store anything on the foot controller.
4. Plug the machine directly into the wall. Do not use extension cords.
For a longer service life
1. When storing this machine, avoid direct sunlight and high humidity locations. Do not use or store the machine near a space heater, iron, halogen lamp, or other hot objects.
2. Use only neutral soaps or detergents to clean the case. Benzene, thinner, and scouring powders can damage the case and machine, and should never be used.
3. Do not drop or hit the machine.
4. Always consult the operation manual when replacing or installing any assemblies, the presser feet, needle, or other parts to assure correct installation.
For repair or adjustment
In the event a malfunction occurs or adjustment is required, first follow the troubleshooting table in the back of the operation manual to inspect and adjust the machine yourself. If the problem persists, please consult your local authorized Baby Lock retailer.
The contents of this manual and specifications of this product are subject to change without notice.
For additional product information and updates, visit our web site at www.babylock.com
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Introduction
Thank you for purchasing this embroidery and sewing machine. Before using this machine, carefully read the "Important Safety Instructions", and then study this manual for the correct operation of the various functions. In addition, after you have finished reading this manual, store it where it can quickly be accessed for future reference.
Important Safety Instructions
Please read these safety instructions before attempting to use the machine. This machine is intended for household use.
DANGER - To reduce the risk of electric shock:
1Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet immediately after using, when cleaning,
when making any user servicing adjustments mentioned in this manual, or if you are leaving the machine unattended.
WARNING - To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons.
2Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or
when making any adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual.
• To unplug the machine, switch the machine to the symbol “O” position to turn it off, then grasp
the plug and pull it out of the electrical outlet. Do not pull on the cord.
• Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet. Do not use an extension cord.
Always unplug your machine if the power is cut.
3 Never operate this machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has
been dropped or damaged, or water is spilled on the unit. Return the machine to the nearest authorized retailer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.
• While the machine is stored or in use if you notice anything unusual, such as an odor, heat, discoloration or deformation, stop using the machine immediately and unplug the power cord.
• When transporting the sewing machine, be sure to carry it by its handle. Lifting the sewing
machine by any other part may damage the machine or result in the machine falling, which could cause injuries.
When lifting the sewing machine, be careful not to make any sudden or careless movements,
otherwise you may injure your back or knees.
4 Always keep your work area clear:
Never operate the machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the
sewing machine and foot control free from the build up of lint, dust, and loose cloth.
Do not store objects on the foot controller.
Do not use extension cords. Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet.
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Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being
administered.
Do not use the machine near a heat source, such as a stove or iron; otherwise, the machine,
power cord or garment being sewn may ignite, resulting in fire or an electric shock.
Do not place this sewing machine on an unstable surface, such as an unsteady or slanted table,
otherwise the sewing machine may fall, resulting in injuries.
5 Special care is required when sewing:
Always pay close attention to the needle. Do not use bent or damaged needles.
• Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the machine needle.
• Switch the sewing machine to the symbol “O” position to turn it off when making any adjustments
in the needle area.
Do not use a damaged or incorrect needle plate, as it could cause the needle to break.
Do not push or pull the fabric when sewing, and follow careful instruction when freehand
stitching so that you do not deflect the needle and cause it to break.
6 This machine is not a toy:
• Your close attention is necessary when the machine is used by or near children.
• The plastic bag that this sewing machine was supplied in should be kept out of the reach of
children or disposed of. Never allow children to play with the bag due to the danger of suffocation.
• Do not use outdoors.
7 For a longer service life:
• When storing this machine, avoid direct sunlight and high humidity locations. Do not use or store
the machine near a space heater, iron, halogen lamp, or other hot objects.
• Use only neutral soaps or detergents to clean the case. Benzene, thinner, and scouring powders
can damage the case and machine, and should never be used.
• Always consult the operation manual when replacing or installing any assemblies, the presser feet,
needle, or other parts to assure correct installation.
8 For repair or adjustment:
• If the light unit is damaged, it must be replaced by an authorized retailer.
• In the event a malfunction occurs or adjustment is required, first follow the troubleshooting table
in the back of the operation manual to inspect and adjust the machine yourself. If the problem persists, please consult your local authorized retailer.
Use this machine only for its intended use as described in the manual.
Use accessories recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.
Use only the interface cable (USB cable) included with this machine.
The contents of this manual and specifications of this product are subject to change without notice.
For additional product information and updates, visit our web site at www.babylock.com
SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS
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Federal Communications Commission (FCC)
Declaration of Conformity (For USA Only)
Responsible Party: Tacony Corporation
1760 Gilsinn Lane, Fenton, Missouri 63026
declares that the product
Product Name: Baby Lock Sewing Machine Model Number : BL137A
This device complies with Part 15 of the FCC Rules. Operation is subject to the following two conditions: (1) this device may not cause harmful interference, and (2) this device must accept any interference received, including interference that may cause undesired operation.
This equipment has been tested and found to comply with the limits for a Class B digital device, pursuant to Part 15 of the FCC Rules. These limits are designed to provide reasonable protection against harmful interference in a residential installation. This equipment generates, uses, and can radiate radio frequency energy and, if not installed and used in accordance with the instructions, may cause harmful interference to radio communications. However, there is no guarantee that interference will not occur in a particular installation. If this equipment does cause harmful interference to radio or television reception, which can be determined by turning the equipment off and on, the user is encouraged to try to correct the interference by one or more of the following measures:
• Reorient or relocate the receiving antenna.
• Increase the separation between the equipment and receiver.
• Connect the equipment into an outlet on a circuit different from that to which the receiver is
connected.
• Consult the retailer or an experienced radio/TV technician for help.
• The included interface cable should be used in order to ensure compliance with the limits for a
Class B digital device.
• Changes or modifications not expressly approved by Tacony Corporation could void the user's
authority to operate the equipment.
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Contents
Introduction ........................................................................................................................ 1
Important Safety Instructions .............................................................................................. 1
Machine Features ................................................................................................................7
Accessories .......................................................................................................................... 8
Included accessories ......................................................................................................................................... 8
Optional accessories ......................................................................................................................................... 9
Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions ................................................................... 10
Front view ....................................................................................................................................................... 10
Needle and presser foot section ...................................................................................................................... 11
Right-side/rear view ........................................................................................................................................ 11
Operation buttons ........................................................................................................................................... 12
Operation panel .............................................................................................................................................. 13
GETTING READY 15
Turning the Machine On/Off .............................................................................................16
Power supply precautions ............................................................................................................................... 16
Turning on the machine .................................................................................................................................. 17
Turning off the machine .................................................................................................................................. 17
LCD (Liquid Crystal Display) Operation ............................................................................ 18
Viewing the LCD ............................................................................................................................................. 18
Changing the machine settings ........................................................................................................................ 19
Checking machine operating procedures ........................................................................................................ 21
Winding/Installing the Bobbin ........................................................................................... 22
Bobbin precautions ......................................................................................................................................... 22
Winding the bobbin ........................................................................................................................................ 22
Installing the bobbin ....................................................................................................................................... 27
Upper Threading ...............................................................................................................31
About the spool of thread ................................................................................................................................ 31
Threading the upper thread ............................................................................................................................. 32
Using the twin needle ..................................................................................................................................... 36
Replacing the Needle ........................................................................................................39
Needle precautions ......................................................................................................................................... 39
Selecting the needle depending on the thread and fabric types ...................................................................... 39
Checking the needle ....................................................................................................................................... 40
Replacing the needle ....................................................................................................................................... 41
Replacing the Presser Foot ................................................................................................ 43
Presser foot precautions .................................................................................................................................. 43
Replacing the presser foot ............................................................................................................................... 43
Removing and attaching the presser foot holder .............................................................................................. 45
Sewing Cylindrical Pieces ................................................................................................. 46
Free-arm sewing .............................................................................................................................................. 46
SEWING BASICS 47
Sewing ............................................................................................................................... 48
General sewing procedure .............................................................................................................................. 48
Selecting stitching ........................................................................................................................................... 49
Positioning the fabric ...................................................................................................................................... 50
Starting to sew ................................................................................................................................................. 51
Securing the stitching ...................................................................................................................................... 53
Cutting the thread ........................................................................................................................................... 55
Setting the Stitch ............................................................................................................... 57
Adjusting the stitch width ................................................................................................................................ 57
Adjusting the stitch length ............................................................................................................................... 59
Adjusting the thread tension ............................................................................................................................ 59
Useful Functions ................................................................................................................61
Automatic sewing reverse/reinforcement stitches ............................................................................................ 61
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Automatically cutting the thread ..................................................................................................................... 62
Mirroring stitches ............................................................................................................................................ 63
Saving stitch settings ....................................................................................................................................... 64
Useful Sewing Tips ............................................................................................................ 65
Trial sewing .................................................................................................................................................... 65
Changing the sewing direction ........................................................................................................................ 65
Sewing curves ................................................................................................................................................. 65
Sewing thick fabrics ........................................................................................................................................ 65
Sewing hook-and-loop fastener ....................................................................................................................... 66
Sewing thin fabrics .......................................................................................................................................... 66
Sewing stretch fabrics ...................................................................................................................................... 67
Sewing an even seam allowance ..................................................................................................................... 67
UTILITY STITCHES 69
Stitch Setting Chart ...........................................................................................................70
Utility stitches ................................................................................................................................................. 70
Overcasting Stitches .......................................................................................................... 74
Sewing overcasting stitches using overcasting foot "G" .................................................................................... 74
Sewing overcasting stitches using zigzag foot "J" ............................................................................................. 75
Sewing overcasting stitches using the optional side cutter ............................................................................... 76
Basic Stitching ................................................................................................................... 78
Basting ............................................................................................................................................................ 78
Basic stitching ................................................................................................................................................. 78
Blind Hem Stitching ..........................................................................................................80
Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing .................................................................................. 83
Buttonhole sewing .......................................................................................................................................... 84
Button sewing ................................................................................................................................................. 88
Zipper Insertion ................................................................................................................. 90
Inserting a centered zipper .............................................................................................................................. 90
Inserting a side zipper ..................................................................................................................................... 92
Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape ............................................................................95
Stretch stitching ............................................................................................................................................... 95
Elastic attaching .............................................................................................................................................. 96
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching ..........................................................................97
Appliqué stitching ........................................................................................................................................... 98
Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching ..................................................................................................................... 99
Piecing ............................................................................................................................................................ 99
Quilting ........................................................................................................................................................ 100
Free-motion quilting ...................................................................................................................................... 102
Reinforcement Stitching .................................................................................................. 103
Triple stretch stitching ................................................................................................................................... 103
Bar tack stitching ........................................................................................................................................... 103
Darning ......................................................................................................................................................... 106
Eyelet Stitching ................................................................................................................ 108
Decorative Stitching ........................................................................................................ 109
Fagoting ........................................................................................................................................................ 110
Scallop stitching ............................................................................................................................................ 111
Smocking ...................................................................................................................................................... 112
Shell tuck stitching ........................................................................................................................................ 113
Joining .......................................................................................................................................................... 114
Heirloom stitching ........................................................................................................................................ 114
EMBROIDERY 117
Embroidering Neatly ....................................................................................................... 118
What to prepare ............................................................................................................................................ 118
Embroidery step by step ................................................................................................................................ 119
Attaching the Embroidery Foot .......................................................................................120
Attaching the embroidery foot ...................................................................................................................... 120
Removing the embroidery foot ..................................................................................................................... 122
Attaching the Embroidery Unit ........................................................................................ 123
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Embroidery unit precautions ......................................................................................................................... 123
Attaching the embroidery unit ....................................................................................................................... 123
Removing the embroidery unit ...................................................................................................................... 125
Preparing the Fabric ........................................................................................................ 126
Attaching a stabilizer material to the fabric ................................................................................................... 126
Setting the fabric in the embroidery frame ..................................................................................................... 127
Attaching the Embroidery Frame ..................................................................................... 130
Attaching the embroidery frame .................................................................................................................... 130
Removing the embroidery frame ................................................................................................................... 131
Selecting Embroidery Patterns ......................................................................................... 132
Copyright information ................................................................................................................................... 132
Embroidery pattern types ............................................................................................................................... 132
LCD (liquid crystal display) operation ........................................................................................................... 133
Selecting alphanumeric characters ................................................................................................................ 136
Selecting an embroidery pattern .................................................................................................................... 137
Selecting a frame pattern ............................................................................................................................... 137
Using an embroidery card ............................................................................................................................. 138
Embroidering ...................................................................................................................139
Embroidering a pattern .................................................................................................................................. 139
Appliquéing ................................................................................................................................................. 141
Editing Patterns ...............................................................................................................143
Adjusting the layout and the size ................................................................................................................... 143
Adjusting the thread tension .......................................................................................................................... 145
Connecting character patterns ....................................................................................................................... 146
Resewing ...................................................................................................................................................... 147
Thread runs out partway through a design ..................................................................................................... 148
Stopping while embroidering ........................................................................................................................ 148
Using the Memory Function ............................................................................................150
Embroidery data precautions ......................................................................................................................... 150
Saving patterns .............................................................................................................................................. 151
Retrieving embroidery patterns from the computer ........................................................................................ 152
APPENDIX 155
Care and Maintenance .................................................................................................... 156
Cleaning the machine surface ....................................................................................................................... 156
Cleaning the race .......................................................................................................................................... 156
Troubleshooting ..............................................................................................................158
Error messages .............................................................................................................................................. 163
Adjusting the LCD ......................................................................................................................................... 167
Operation beep ............................................................................................................................................. 167
Upgrading Your Machine's Software ............................................................................... 168
Index ............................................................................................................................... 169
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Machine Features
a Automatic thread cutting
The thread can be cut automatically after sewing (page 55, 62).
b Fast bobbin winding system
With the fast and simple bobbin winder, you can wind bobbins with one press of a button (page 22).
c Built-in stitches
You can select from the built-in utility stitches available (page 70).
d USB port connector
Various PES embroidery patterns on the website or saved in your PC become available by using the USB cable (page 152).
e Bright light
The convenient LED lamp makes it easy to work on dark fabrics.
f Seven-point feed dogs
Ensure smooth, even feeding of multiple fabric layers and a variety of fabric weights (page 11).
g Quick-set bobbin
You can start sewing without pulling up the bobbin thread (page 27).
h Easy-to-use needle threader
You can thread the needle easily by one press of a lever (page 32).
i Lighted Start/Stop button
When the green light is on, the machine is ready to sew. A red or orange light indicates an error or that the machine is warming up (page 12).
j Embroidery
You can embroider built-in embroidery patterns, alphanumeric characters, framed decorations, designs from optional embroidery cards, and designs imported from your computer (page 117).
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Accessories
After opening the box, check that the following accessories are included. If any item is missing or damaged, contact your authorized retailer.
Included accessories
Note
z Foot controller: Model T
This foot controller can be used on this machine model BL137A.
z The securing screw on the side of the presser foot holder is available through your authorized retailer.
(Part code: 132730-122)
*
12.3.4.5.6.7.8.9.
10.
1
11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18.
20. 21. 22. 23.
24.
25. 26. 27.
19
.
28. 29. 30. 31. 32.
*
1 75/11 2 needles, 90/14 2 needles , 90/14 2 needles: Ball point needle (gold colored)
No. Part Name Part Code No. Part Name Part Code
1 Buttonhole foot "A" XC2691-023 18 Spool cap (small) 130013-124 2 Overcasting foot "G" XC3098-031 19 Extra spool pin XE2241-001 3 Monogramming foot "N" XD0810-031 20 Spool net XA5523-020 4 Zipper foot "I" X59370-021 21 Foot controller XC8816-021 5 Zigzag foot "J" (on machine) XC3021-031 22 Scissors XC1807-121 6 Blind stitch foot "R" XC4051-031 23 Disc-shaped screwdriver XC1074-051 7 Button fitting foot "M" XE2137-001 24 Embroidery foot "Q" XD0474-151
8 Seam ripper X54243-051 25
9 Bobbin (4) X52800-120 26
10 Needle set X58358-021 27 Accessory bag XC4487-021 11 Twin needle X59296-121 28 Machine cover XE5402-001 12 Cleaning brush X59476-021 29 USB cable XD0745-051
13 Eyelet punch 135793-001 30
14 Screwdriver XC4237-021 31 Quick reference guide XE5405-001 15 Touch pen XE3069-001 32 Stabilizer 182986-024 16 Spool cap (large) 130012-024
Spool cap (medium) (on
17
machine)
XE1372-001
Embroidery set (medium) H 10 cm X W 10 cm (H 4 inches X W 4 inches)
Embroidery bobbin thread (white)
Instruction and Reference Guide
Frame and embroidery sheet
EF62:
BBT-W
XE5404-001
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Optional accessories
The following are available as optional accessories.
1. 2. 3.
4.
6. 7. 8.
5.
No. Part Name Part Code
Embroidery bobbin thread (black)
1
Embroidery bobbin thread (white)
2 Embroidery card -
Embroidery set (small)
×
3
H 2 cm (H 1 inch × W 2-1/2 inches)
Embroidery set (multi position (large))
4
H 17 cm × W 10 cm (H 6-7/10 inches × W 4
inches) 5 Quilting guide BLG-QG 6 Walking foot BLG-WF 7 Open toe quilting foot BLSR-FMO 8 Side cutter "S" BLG-SCF
W 6 cm
Frame and embroidery sheet
Frame and embroidery sheet
BBT-B
BBT-W
EF61:
EF71:
Memo
z
All specifications are correct at the time of printing. The part codes are subject to change without notice.
z Visit your Baby Lock retailer for a complete listing of optional accessories available for your machine. z Use Baby Lock embroidery card with your machine. Please see your authorized retailer for availability
of embroidery cards or visit the Baby Lock website at www.babylock.com.
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Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions
The names of the various parts of the sewing machine and their functions are described below. Before using the sewing machine, carefully read these descriptions to learn the names of the machine parts.
Front view
a Thread guide cover (page 24, 33)
Pass the thread under this thread guide cover when winding the bobbin thread and threading the machine.
b Thread guide (page 24, 33)
Pass the thread under this thread guide when winding the bobbin thread and threading the machine.
c Spool pin (page 23, 32)
Place a spool of thread on the spool pin.
d Bobbin winder (page 22)
Use the bobbin winder when winding the bobbin.
e LCD (liquid crystal display) (touch panel) (page 18)
Setting for the selected stitch or pattern and error messages appear in the LCD.
f Operation panel (page 13)
Use the keys on this panel to select stitches or embroidery patterns, or check how to use the sewing machine, etc.
g Embroidery unit connector slot (page 123)
Plug in the connector for the embroidery unit.
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h Presser foot lever (page 50)
Raise and lower the presser foot lever to raise and lower the presser foot.
i Operation buttons (page 12)
Use these buttons to operate the machine.
j Flat bed attachment (page 46)
Remove the flat bed attachment when sewing cylindrical pieces such as sleeve cuffs.
k Thread cutter (page 56)
Pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them.
l Needle threader lever (page 35)
Use the needle threader lever to thread the needle.
m Thread tension dial (page 59, 145)
Adjust the upper thread tension with this dial.
n Thread take-up lever (page 34)
o Bobbin-winding thread guide and pretension disc
(page 24)
Pass the thread under this thread guide and around the pretension disc when winding the bobbin thread.
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Needle and presser foot section
a Buttonhole lever (page 86)
Lower the buttonhole lever when sewing buttonholes and bar tacks.
b Thread guide disk (page 34)
Pass the thread through the thread guide disk when using the needle threader to thread the needle.
c Needle bar thread guide (page 34)
Pass the upper thread through the needle bar thread guide.
d Needle plate (page 67)
The needle plate is marked with guides for sewing straight seams.
e Needle plate cover (page 156)
Remove the needle plate cover to clean the bobbin case and race.
f Bobbin cover/bobbin case (page 28)
Remove the bobbin cover, and then insert the bobbin into the bobbin case.
g Feed dogs (page 88)
The feed dogs feed the fabric in the sewing direction.
h Presser foot (page 43, 50)
The presser foot applies pressure consistently on the fabric as the sewing takes place. Attach the appropriate presser foot for the stitch selected.
i Presser foot holder (page 45)
The presser foot is installed onto the presser foot holder.
Right-side/rear view
a Handle
Carry the sewing machine by its handle when transporting the machine.
b Handwheel (page 50)
Turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) to raise and lower the needle to sew one stitch.
c Embroidery card slot (page 138)
Insert the embroidery card.
d USB port (Type B) (page 152)
Connect the one end of the USB cable to this port and the other to the computer.
e Air vent
The air vent allows the air surrounding the motor to be circulated. Do not cover the air vent while the sewing machine is being used.
f Main power switch (page 17)
Use the main power switch to turn the sewing machine on and off.
g Foot controller jack (page 52)
Insert the plug on the end of the foot controller cable into the foot controller jack.
h Power supply jack (page 17)
Insert the plug on the power supply cord into the power supply jack.
i Drop feed lever (page 88)
Use the drop feed lever to lower the feed dogs.
Memo
z Refer to pages 10 through 13 while you are
learning to use your machine.
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Operation buttons
The operation buttons help you to easily perform various basic sewing machine operations.
a Start/stop button
Press the start/stop button to start or stop sewing. The machine sews at a slow speed at the beginning of sewing while the button is pressed. When sewing is stopped, the needle is lowered in the fabric. For details, refer to "Starting to sew" (page 51). The button changes color according to the machine’s operation mode.
Green: The machine is ready to sew or is
Red: The machine can not sew.
Orange: The machine is winding the bobbin
sewing.
thread, or the bobbin winder shaft is moved to the right side.
Memo
z When the foot controller is plugged in,
(Start/stop button) cannot be used to
start sewing.
b Needle position button
Press the needle position button to raise or lower the needle. Be sure to raise the needle before threading the needle. Use this button to change the sewing direction or for detailed sewing in small areas. Pressing the button twice sews one stitch.
c Reverse/reinforcement stitch button
Press the reverse/reinforcement stitch button to sew reverse stitches or reinforcement stitches. Reverse stitches are sewn by keeping the button pressed down to sew in the opposite direction. Reinforcement stitches are sewn by sewing 3 to 5 stitches on top of each other. For details, refer to "Securing the stitching" (page 53).
CAUTION
Do not press the thread cutter button
after the threads have already been cut, otherwise the needle may break, the threads may become tangled or damage to the machine may occur.
Note
z Do not press the thread cutter button if there
is no fabric under the presser foot or while the machine is sewing, otherwise damage to the machine may occur.
z When cutting nylon thread or other special
threads, use the thread cutter on the side of the machine. For details, refer to "Using the thread cutter" (page 56).
e Sewing speed controller
Slide the sewing speed controller to adjust the sewing speed.
d Thread cutter button
Press the thread cutter button after sewing is stopped to cut both the upper thread and the bobbin threads. For details, refer to "Cutting the thread" (page 55).
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Operation panel
The front operation panel has an LCD (liquid crystal display) and operation keys.
a LCD (liquid crystal display) (touch panel)
Setting for the selected stitch or pattern and error messages appear in the LCD. Touch the keys displayed on the LCD with your finger or the touch pen to perform operations. For details, refer to "LCD (Liquid Crystal Display) Operation" (page 18).
b Back key
Press to return to the previous screen.
c Previous page key
Displays the previous page when there are items that are not displayed on the LCD.
d Next page key
Displays the next page when there are items that are not displayed on the LCD.
e Memory key
Press to enter alphabet character embroidery or embroidery patterns you have edited or adjusted, etc. into the sewing machine memory.
f Utility stitch key
Press this key to select a utility stitch.
g Embroidery key
Press this key to sew embroidery.
h Settings key
Press to set the needle stop position, the buzzer sound, and more.
i Sewing machine help key
Press to get help on using the sewing machine. Displays simple explanations of setting upper thread / bobbin winding / setting bobbin thread / needle replacement / embroidery unit attachment / embroidery frame attachment / embroidery foot attachment / presser foot replacement.
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14
1 GETTING READY
The various preparations required before starting to sew are described in this chapter.
Turning the Machine On/Off ..................................................................................16
LCD (Liquid Crystal Display) Operation..................................................................18
Winding/Installing the Bobbin.................................................................................22
Upper Threading .....................................................................................................31
Replacing the Needle ..............................................................................................39
Replacing the Presser Foot ......................................................................................43
Sewing Cylindrical Pieces........................................................................................46
GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Turning the Machine On/Off
This section explains how to turn the sewing machine on and off.
Power supply precautions
Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the power supply.
WARNING
Use only regular household electricity for the power source. Using other power sources may result in fire, electric shock, or damage to the machine.
Make sure that the plugs on the power cord are firmly inserted into the electrical outlet and the power supply jack on the machine.
Do not insert the plug on the power cord into an electrical outlet that is in poor condition.
Turn off the main power and remove the plug in the following circumstances:
• When you are away from the machine
• After using the machine
• When the power fails during use
• When the machine does not operate correctly due to a bad connection or a disconnection
• During electrical storms
CAUTION
Use only the power cord included with this machine.
Do not use extension cords or multi-plug adapters with many other appliances plugged in to
them. Fire or electric shock may result.
Do not touch the plug with wet hands. Electric shock may result.
When unplugging the machine, always turn off the main power first. Always grasp the plug to
remove it from the outlet. Pulling on the cord may damage the cord, or lead to fire or electric shock.
Do not allow the power cord to be cut, damaged, modified, forcefully bent, pulled, twisted, or bundled. Do not place heavy objects on the cord. Do not subject the cord to heat. These things may damage the cord and cause fire or electric shock. If the cord or plug is damaged, take the machine to your authorized retailer for repairs before continuing use.
Unplug the power cord if the machine is not to be used for a long period of time. Otherwise a fire may result.
16
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Turning on the machine
Prepare the included power cord.
Make sure that the sewing machine is turned
a
off (the main power switch is set to " "), and then plug the power supply cord into the power supply jack on the right side of the machine.
Insert the plug of the power supply cord into a
b
household electrical outlet.
1
a Power supply jack
Press the right side of the main power switch
c
on the right side of the machine to turn the machine on (set it to "|").
X The light, LCD and (Start/stop button)
light up when the machine is turned on.
Memo
z When the machine is turned on, the needle
and the feed dogs will make sound when they move; this is not a malfunction.
Turning off the machine
When you have finished using the sewing machine, turn it off. In addition, before transporting the sewing machine to another location, be sure to turn it off.
Make sure that the machine is not sewing.
a
Press the left side of the main power switch on
b
the right side of the machine to turn the machine off (set it to " ").
X The light, LCD and (Start/stop button)
go off when the machine is turned off.
Unplug the power supply cord from the
c
electrical outlet.
Grasp the plug when unplugging the power supply cord.
Unplug the power cord from the power supply
d
jack.
Note
z If a power outage occurs while the sewing
machine is being operated, turn off the sewing machine and unplug the power supply cord. When restarting the sewing machine, follow the necessary procedure to correctly operate the machine.
(For U.S.A. only) z This appliance has a polarized plug (one
blade wider than the other). To reduce the risk of electrical shock, this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way.
1
Turning the Machine On/Off 17
GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
LCD (Liquid Crystal Display) Operation
Selected stitch, pattern settings and messages are displayed on the LCD (liquid crystal display) on the front of the sewing machine. Change the screen on the LCD using the keys on the right side of the LCD, and make operations by directly touching the icons with your finger or a "Operation panel" (page 13).
Viewing the LCD
When the power is turned on, the LCD comes on. When you touch the LCD screen according to the message displayed on the screen with your finger or a touch pen, the following utility stitch selection screen is displayed.
touch pen. For details, refer to
1
2
3
l k
0 9
8
4
5
a Selected stitch b Presser foot to be used c Stitches d Stitch settings and twin needle sewing e Stitch width f Stitch length g Number of the selected stitch h Number of stitch selections
i Horizontal mirror image j Automatic thread cutting k Automatic reverse/reinforcement l Single/twin needle sewing and needle stop
position
7
6
Memo
z A different screen is displayed when the embroidery unit is attached. The details are explained in
"Selecting an embroidery pattern" (page 137).
z Refer to "Error messages" (page 163) for messages displayed on the LCD. z Depending on the model of sewing machine, an animation may be displayed when the power is turned
on. When an animation is displayed, the screen above will be displayed if you touch the LCD with your finger.
18
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Changing the machine settings
Various sewing machine operations and sewing settings can be changed. The stitch or machine attributes that can be set are listed below. For details on operation, refer to page 20.
Attribute Icon Details Settings
Needle position
Stitch width control
Thread color display
Display unit
Buzzer
Opening screen
Specifies where the needle is positioned when the sewing machine is stopped.
Allows the stitch width to be adjusted with the sewing speed controller (page 58).
Changes the thread color display on the embroidery screen (page 133).
(When "Thread No.#123" is selected)
Selects the measurement units that are displayed (only for embroidering) (page 134).
Specifies whether or not a beep is sounded with each operation (page 167).
Sets whether or not to display the opening screen when the power is turned on. (There are models where this cannot be changed.)
Down Up
Thread color/Time to
embroider/Needle count/
Thread number (#123)
Embroidery/Country/Madeira
poly/Madeira rayon/Sulky/
Robison Anton
1
mm/INCH
Initial needle position
Language
LCD brightness Adjust the brightness of the LCD (page 167).
EMB.SCS
Product number NO.:
Program version Version: Displays the program version. -
Selects whether "1Straight stitch (left)" or
3
Straight stitch (middle)" that is automatically
" selected when the machine is turned on.
Allows the language used in the screens to be changed.
Displays the stitch count of the total stitches embroidered. The stitch count serves as a reminder to take your machine in for regular servicing. (Contact your authorized retailer for details.)
The "NO." is the number for the embroidery and sewing machine.
English/German/French/
Italian/Dutch/Spanish/
Japanese/Danish/Norwegian/
Finnish/Swedish/Portuguese/
Russian/Korean/Thai/others
Lighter Darker
Memo
z The item shown in reverse highlighting are the settings at the time of purchase.
-
-
LCD (Liquid Crystal Display) Operation 19
GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Turn on the sewing machine.
The highlighted display is the initi al setting.
a
X The LCD comes on.
Example: Changing the needle stop position
Press (Settings key) on the display
b
panel.
X The setting screen appears.
Press the item to be set.
c
Switch the screen using (Previous page key) and (Next page key).
• The following screens show their default settings.
When settings are complete, press
d
(Back key).
X The initial stitch screen appears again.
Memo
z "NO." is the individual number for the
sewing machine.
z "VERSION" is the program version which is
installed in the sewing machine.
z Settings that are changed are saved even if
the power is turned off.
20
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Press (Next page key) to switch to the
d
Checking machine operating procedures
Simple explanations can be referred on the LCD display for the following items. Displays simple explanations of setting upper thread / bobbin winding / setting bobbin thread / needle replacement / embroidery unit attachment / embroidery frame attachment / embroidery foot attachment / presser foot replacement on the LCD.
Turn on the sewing machine.
a
X The LCD comes on.
Press (Sewing machine help key) on
b
the display panel.
next page.
If you press (Previous page key), you return to the previous page.
Press (Back key) to return to the item selection screen.
Example: Upper threading
1
X The sewing machine help screen appears.
Press the item to be displayed.
c
bc
a
h
g
a Upper threading b Bobbin winding c Bobbin installation d Needle replacement e Presser foot replacement f Embroidery foot attachment g Embroidery frame attachment h Embroidery unit attachment
X The first screen describing the procedure for
the selected topic appears.
f
d
e
After you finish viewing, press (Back
e
key) two times.
X The initial stitch screen appears again.
Memo
z For details on each topic, refer to the
corresponding page in this Operation Manual.
LCD (Liquid Crystal Display) Operation 21
GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Winding/Installing the Bobbin
This section describes how to wind the thread onto the bobbin, and then insert the bobbin thread.
Bobbin precautions
Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the bobbin.
CAUTION
Only use the Bobbin (part code: X52800-120) designed specifically for this sewing machine. Use of any other bobbin may result in injuries or damage to the machine.
The included bobbin was designed specifically for this sewing machine. If bobbins from other models are used, the machine will not operate correctly. Use only the included bobbin (part code: X52800-120) or bobbins of the same type (Class 15 plastic bobbins).
Actual size
11.5 mm (7/16 inch)
This model
Other model
Winding the bobbin
Wind the thread around the bobbin to prepare the bobbin thread.
b
a
c
a Bobbin-winding thread guide b Bobbin winder shaft c Bobbin
Memo
z The order that the machine should be threaded for winding the bobbin is indicated by a broken line on
the sewing machine. Be sure to thread the machine as indicated.
22
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Turn on the sewing machine.
a
Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder shaft so
b
that the spring on the shaft fits into the notch in the bobbin. Press down on the bobbin until it snaps into place.
a
b
a Notch b Bobbin winder shaft spring
Slide the bobbin winder in the direction of the
c
arrow until it snaps into place.
Place the spool of thread for the bobbin onto
e
the spool pin.
Slide the spool onto the pin so that the spool is horizontal and the thread unwinds to the front at the bottom.
Memo
z For embroidering, use the embroidery
bobbin thread.
Note
z If the spool is not positioned so that the
thread unwinds correctly, the thread may become tangled around the spool pin.
Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin and
f
return the spool pin to its original position.
Slide the spool cap as far as possible to the right as shown, with the rounded side on the left.
1
X
Pick up the spool pin and remove the spool
d
cap that is inserted onto the spool pin.
a Spool cap b Spool pin
(Start/stop button) lights up in orange.
a
b
CAUTION
If the spool or the spool cap is not positioned correctly, the thread may become tangled around the spool pin or the machine may be damaged.
Three spool cap sizes are available, allowing you to choose a spool cap that best fits the size of spool being used. If the spool cap is too small for the spool being used, the thread may catch on the slit in the spool or the machine may be damaged.
Winding/Installing the Bobbin 23
GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Pass the thread behind the thread guide cover
Note
z When sewing with fine, cross-wound thread,
use the small spool cap, and leave a small space between the cap and the spool.
h
and to the front.
While holding the thread near the spool with your right hand, pull the thread with your left hand as shown below.
c
b
a
a Spool cap (small) b Spool (cross-wound thread) c Space
z When using thread that winds off quickly,
such as transparent nylon thread or metallic thread, place the spool net over the spool before placing the spool of thread onto the spool pin. If the spool net is too long, fold it to fit the size of the spool. When the spool net is used, the upper thread tension may become tighter. Before sewing, refer to "Adjusting the thread tension" (page
59).
a
b
a
a Thread guide cover
Pull the thread to the right, pass it under the
i
hook of the bobbin-winding thread guide, and then wind the thread counterclockwise under the pretension disc, pulling it in as far as possible.
c
d
a Spool net b Spool c Spool cap d Spool pin
Pull the thread from the spool and pass the
g
thread under the hook of thread guide.
a
a Thread guide
24
a
a Bobbin-winding thread guide
Make sure that the thread passes under the pretension disk.
b
c
b Hook c Pretension disk d Pull it in as far as possible.
d
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Wind the end of the thread clockwise around
j
the bobbin five or six times.
While using your left hand to hold the thread that was passed through the bobbin-winding thread guide, use your right hand to wind the end of the thread.
Wind five or six times.
CAUTION
Be sure to pull the thread tightly and wind it clockwise. If the thread is wound counterclockwise, the thread may wind around the bobbin winder shaft.
Pass the end of the thread through the guide
k
slit in the bobbin winder seat, and then pull the thread to the right to cut it.
Slide the sewing speed controller to the right.
l
a
a Speed controller
Note
z
In the setting screen be sure the stitch width control setting is For details, refer to "Adjusting stitch width using the sewing speed controller" (page 58).
Press (Start/stop button) once.
m
When the foot controller is plugged in, press down on the foot controller.
"OFF"
before winding bobbin.
1
a
a Guide slit in bobbin winder seat
(with built-in cutter)
CAUTION
Be sure to cut the thread as described. If the bobbin is wound without cutting the thread using the cutter built into the slit in the bobbin winder seat, the thread may become tangled in the bobbin or the needle may bend or break when the bobbin thread starts to run out.
Memo
z Make sure that the thread is correctly set
before starting the bobbin winding. Otherwise the thread may become tangled and fail to wind the thread.
a
a Start/stop button
X
The bobbin starts winding and "Winding bobbin thread..." is displayed on the LCD screen.
Note
z
Do not get away from the machine while winding the bobbin. Make sure the bobbin thread is being wound correctly. If the bobbin thread is wound incorrectly, press (Start/stop button) or operate the foot controller immediately to stop the bobbin winding.
When the bobbin winding stops or becomes
n
slow, press (Start/stop button) once to stop the machine.
When the foot controller is plugged in, remove your foot from the foot controller.
X The bobbin winding will stop.
CAUTION
When the bobbin winding stops or becomes slow, stop the machine. Otherwise, the sewing machine may be damaged.
Winding/Installing the Bobbin 25
GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Cut the thread with scissors, slide the bobbin
o
winder shaft to the left, and then remove the bobbin from the shaft.
Memo
z If the bobbin winder shaft is set to the right
side, the needle will not move. (Sewing is impossible.)
Slide the sewing speed controller back to
p
preferred sewing speed.
When the thread became tangled under the bobbin winder seat.
If the bobbin winding starts when the thread is not passed under the pretension disk of the bobbin­winding thread guide correctly, the thread may become tangled under the bobbin winder seat. In such a case, wind off the thread according to the following procedure.
b
a
a Thread b Bobbin winder seat
CAUTION
Do not remove the bobbin winder seat even if the thread become tangled under the bobbin winder seat. It may result in injuries.
Do not remove the screw of the bobbin winder presser, otherwise the machine may be damaged; you cannot wind off the thread by removing the screw.
Memo
z When the sewing machine is started or the
handwheel is turned after winding the bobbin, the machine will make a clicking sound; this is not a malfunction.
a Screw of the bobbin winder presser
If the thread become tangled under the bobbin
a
winder seat, press (Start/stop button) once to stop the bobbin winding.
When the foot controller is plugged in, remove your foot from the foot controller.
a
a Start/stop button
a
26
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Cut the thread with scissors beside the bobbin-
b
winding thread guide.
a
Installing the bobbin
Install the bobbin wound with thread.
CAUTION
Use a bobbin that has been correctly wound with thread, otherwise the needle may break or the thread tension will be incorrect.
a Bobbin-winding thread guide
Slide the bobbin winder shaft to the left, and
c
then remove the bobbin from the shaft.
The included bobbin was designed specifically for this sewing machine. If bobbins from other models are used, the machine will not operate correctly. Use only the included bobbin (part code: X52800-120) or bobbins of the same type (Class 15 plastic bobbins).
1
Hold the thread end with your left hand, and
d
wind off the thread clockwise near the bobbin with your right hand as shown below.
Wind the bobbin again.
e
Note
z Make sure that the thread passes under the
pretension disk of the bobbin-winding thread guide correctly (page 24).
Actual size
11.5 mm
(7/16 inch)
This model
Other model
Memo
z The order that the bobbin thread should be
passed through the bobbin case is indicated by marks that surround the bobbin case.
Winding/Installing the Bobbin 27
GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Press (Needle position button) once or
a
twice to raise the needle, and then raise the presser foot lever.
a
b
a Needle position button b Presser foot lever
Turn off the sewing machine.
b
Slide the bobbin cover latch to the right.
c
a
b
Insert the bobbin into the bobbin case with
f
your right hand.
• Be sure to insert the bobbin correctly.
CAUTION
Be sure to insert the bobbin and depress it to the bottom with your finger. Otherwise, the thread may break or the thread tension will be incorrect.
Be sure to thread the machine as indicated. Otherwise, the thread may break or the thread tension will be incorrect.
Lightly hold down the bobbin with your right
g
hand, and then guide the thread as shown with your left hand.
a Bobbin cover b Latch
X The bobbin cover opens.
Remove the bobbin cover.
d
Hold the bobbin with your right hand and hold
e
the end of the thread with your left hand.
• Be careful not to drop the bobbin.
28
Pass the thread through the slot as shown, and
h
then pull the thread out toward the front.
a
a Cutter
X The cutter cuts the thread.
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
When pulling up the bobbin thread may be
Note
z If the thread is not correctly inserted through
the tension-adjusting spring of the bobbin case, it may cause incorrect thread tension (page 59).
a
a Tension-adjusting spring
necessary
When making gathers or before free-motion quilting, first pull up the bobbin thread as described below.
Thread the upper thread.
a
• Refer to "Upper Threading" (page 31).
Insert the bobbin into the bobbin case.
b
• Refer to steps bobbin" (page 28).
Pass the bobbin thread through the slot.
c
c through f of "Installing the
1
Reattach the bobbin cover.
i
Insert the tab in the lower-left corner of the bobbin cover, and then lightly press down on the right side.
a
1
a Tab b Lower-left corner
X The bobbin threading is finished. You can
begin sewing without pulling up the bobbin thread.
Next, thread the upper thread. Continue with the procedure in "Upper Threading" (page 31).
b
Memo
z When making gathers or before free-motion
quilting, pull up the bobbin thread by following the procedure in "When pulling up the bobbin thread may be necessary".
2
Note
z Do not cut the thread with the cutter. z Remove the bobbin cover.
While lightly holding the upper thread with
d
your left hand, press (Needle position button) once or twice to raise the needle.
a
a Needle position button
X The bobbin thread is looped around the
upper thread and can be pulled up.
Winding/Installing the Bobbin 29
GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Carefully pull the upper thread upward to pull
e
out the end of the bobbin thread.
Pull out about 10-15 cm (4-5 inches) of the
f
bobbin thread under the presser foot toward the rear of the machine.
Reattach the bobbin cover.
g
Insert the tab in the lower-left corner of the bobbin cover, and then lightly press down on the right side.
a
b
1
a Tab b Lower-left corner
2
30
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Upper Threading
This section describes how to position the spool for the upper thread, and then thread the needle.
a
a Mark on handwheel
About the spool of thread
CAUTION
When threading the upper thread, carefully follow the instructions. If the upper threading is not correct, the thread may become tangled or the needle may bend or break.
The needle threader can be used with a 75/11 through 100/16 home sewing machine needle. When using special thread such as transparent nylon thread or metallic thread, the needle threader cannot be used.
Thread with a thickness of 130/20 or thicker cannot be used with the needle threader.
The needle threader cannot be used with the wing needle or the twin needle.
If the needle threader cannot be used, refer to "Threading the needle manually (without using the needle threader)" (page
36).
Never use a thread weight of 130/20 or lower.
Use the needle and the thread in the correct combination. For details on the correct combination of needles and threads, refer to "Selecting the needle depending on the thread and fabric types" (page 39).
Information about the spools of thread is described below.
CAUTION
If the spool or the spool cap is not positioned correctly, the thread may become tangled around the spool pin or the needle may break.
Three spool cap sizes are available, allowing you to choose a spool cap that best fits the size of spool being used. If the spool cap is too small for the spool being used, the thread may catch on the slit in the spool or the needle may break.
1
Upper Threading 31
GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Press (Needle position button) once or
c
Threading the upper thread
twice to raise the needle.
Set the spool of thread on the spool pin, and then thread the machine.
CAUTION
When threading the upper thread, carefully follow the instructions. If the upper threading is not correct, the thread may become tangled or the needle may bend or break.
Turn on the machine.
a
Raise the presser foot lever.
b
a
a Presser foot lever
X The presser foot is raised.
a
a Needle position button
Note
z The needle is correctly raised when the mark
on the handwheel is at the top, as shown below. Check the handwheel and, if this mark is not at this position, press (Needle position button) until it is.
a
a Mark on handwheel
Pick up the spool pin and remove the spool
d
cap that is inserted onto the spool pin.
Memo
z If the presser foot is not raised, the sewing
machine cannot be threaded.
32
b
a Spool pin b Spool cap
Place the spool of thread onto the spool pin.
e
Slide the spool onto the pin so that the spool is
a
horizontal and the thread unwinds to the front at the bottom.
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin and
f
return the spool pin to its original position.
Slide the spool cap as far as possible to the right as shown, with the rounded side on the left.
CAUTION
If the spool or the spool cap is not positioned correctly, the thread may become tangled around the spool pin or the needle may break.
Pull the thread from the spool and pass the
g
thread under the hook of the thread guide.
Pass the thread behind the thread guide cover
h
and to the front.
While holding the thread near the spool with your right hand, pull the thread with your left hand as shown below.
a
b
c
a Thread guide cover b Thread guide spring c Thread d When the presser foot lever is lowered
1
d
a Thread guide
a
i
Note
z When passing the thread behind the thread
guide cover, be sure to use both hands. If you do not hold the thread with your right hand, the thread will be loose and you will not be able to secure the thread in the thread spring guide. It may cause incorrect thread tension.
z Make sure that the presser foot lever is raised
before passing the thread behind the thread guide cover. If the presser foot lever is lowered, the thread guide spring is shut and you cannot hang the thread on the thread guide spring correctly.
Pass the thread through the guides in the order shown below.
1
2
4
5
3
Upper Threading 33
GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Make sure that the thread is passed into the
j
thread take-up lever as shown below.
a
a Thread take-up lever
Memo
z If the needle is not raised, you cannot pass
the thread into the thread take-up lever. Be sure to press the needle position button to raise the needle before passing the thread into the thread take-up lever.
Pass the thread behind the needle bar thread
k
guide.
The thread can easily be passed behind the needle bar thread guide by holding the thread in your left hand, then feeding the thread with your right hand, as shown.
Pull the end of the thread, which has been
m
passed through the needle bar thread guide, to the left, then pass the thread through the notch of the thread guide (1), and then firmly pull the thread from the front and insert it into the slit of the thread guide disk marked "7" all the way (2).
Make sure that the thread passes the notch of the thread guide.
b
a Notch of the thread guide b Thread guide disk
a
a
a Needle bar thread guide
Lower the presser foot lever to lower the
l
presser foot.
Cut the thread with the cutter on the left side
n
of the machine.
a
a Thread cutter
a Presser foot lever
34
a
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
a
Lower the needle threader lever on the left
o
side of the machine as much as possible to make the hook turn.
a
a Needle threader lever
a Needle b Hook
Note
z If the needle threader lever is not lowered as
much as possible, the hook will not turn fully as shown below and the thread will not pass through the eye of the needle. In such a case, start from
m again.
Raise the needle threader lever slowly.
p
1
a Needle threader lever
Raise the presser foot lever, and carefully pull
q
a
b
the loop of the thread through the eye of the needle to pull out the end of the thread.
CAUTION
Do not touch a button. Do not touch the start/stop button, needle position button or reverse/reinforcement stitch button. If one of the buttons is accidentally pressed, the machine will begin sewing and your finger may be pricked with the needle or the needle may break.
When pulling out the thread, do not pull it with extreme force, otherwise the needle may bend or break.
z If the needle is not raised, the needle
threader cannot thread the needle. Be sure to press (Needle position button) to raise the needle before using the needle threader. For details, refer to step upper thread" (page 32).
z
c of "Threading the
Pass the end of the thread through the presser
r
foot, and then pull out about 5 cm (2 inches) of thread toward the rear of the machine.
a
a 5cm (2 inches)
X The upper threading is finished.
Upper Threading 35
GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Threading the needle manually (without using the needle threader)
When using specialty thread, such as transparent nylon thread or metallic thread, a wing needle or a twin needle which cannot be used with the needle threader, thread the needle as described below.
Thread the machine to the needle bar thread
a
guide according to steps "Threading the upper thread" (page 32).
Lower the presser foot lever.
b
a Presser foot lever
Pass the thread through the eye of the needle
c
from front to back.
a through k on
a
Using the twin needle
With the twin needle, you can sew two parallel lines of the same stitch with two different threads. Both upper threads should have the same thickness and quality. Be sure to use the twin needle and the extra spool pin. For details on the stitches that can be sewn with the twin needle, refer to "Stitch Setting Chart" (page 70).
a
b
a Twin needle b Extra spool pin
CAUTION
The twin needle (part code: X59296-121) is recommended. Use of any other needle may bend the needle or damage the machine.
Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.
CAUTION
Do not touch the start/stop button, needle position button or reverse/ reinforcement stitch button. If one of the buttons is accidentally pressed, the machine will begin sewing and your finger may be pricked with the needle or the needle may break.
Raise the presser foot lever, pass the end of the
d
thread through the opening in the presser foot, and pull out about 5 cm toward the rear of the machine.
(2 inches) of thread
Install the twin needle.
a
For details on installing a needle, refer to
"Replacing the needle" (page 41).
Thread the upper thread for the left needle
b
eye.
For details, refer to steps "Threading the upper thread" (page 32).
Manually thread the left needle with the upper
c
thread.
Pass the thread through the eye of the needle from the front.
a through k of
CAUTION
The needle threader cannot be used with the twin needle. If the needle threader is used with the twin needle, the sewing machine may be damaged.
36
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Insert the extra spool pin into the end of the
d
bobbin winder shaft, and install the thread spool on it. Then, thread the upper thread.
a Bobbin winder shaft b Extra spool pin c Thread spool
Memo
z When setting the thread spool, set it so that
the thread winds off from the front of the spool.
Thread the upper thread for the right side in
e
the same way that the upper thread for the left side was threaded.
Without passing the thread through the needle
f
bar thread guide, manually thread the right needle.
Pass the thread through the eye of the needle from the front.
CAUTION
The needle threader cannot be used with the twin needle. If the needle threader is used with the twin needle, the sewing machine may be damaged.
Attach zigzag foot "J".
g
For details on changing the presser foot, refer to "Replacing the Presser Foot" (page 43).
CAUTION
When using the twin needle, be sure to attach zigzag foot "J". If bunched stitches occur, use presser foot "N" or use a lightweight tear-away stabilizer.
1
• For details, refer to steps "Threading the upper thread" (page 32).
g through j of
Turn on the sewing machine and select a
h
stitch.
• For stitch selection see "Selecting stitching" (page 49).
• See "Stitch Setting Chart" (page 70) for stitches that use a twin needle.
CAUTION
When using the twin needle, be sure to select an appropriate stitch, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.
Upper Threading 37
GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Press .
i
X The screen for setting the twin needle
appears.
Press .
j
X displays in reverse highlight.
The twin needle can now be used.
Memo
z If is pressed again, it returns to .
Press (Back key).
k
X The initial screen appears again, and
appears.
Start sewing.
l
• For details on starting to sew, refer to "Starting to sew" (page 51).
X Two lines of stitching are sewn parallel to
each other.
Note
z When changing the sewing direction, press
(Needle position button) to raise the needle from the fabric, and then raise the presser foot lever and turn the fabric.
CAUTION
Do not try turning the fabric with twin
needle in the down position, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.
CAUTION
When using the twin needle, be sure to select the twin needle setting, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.
38
38
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Replacing the Needle
This section describes how to replace the needle.
Needle precautions
CAUTION
z Only use home sewing machine needles. Use of any other needle may bend the needle or
damage the machine.
z Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.
Selecting the needle depending on the thread and fabric types
The sewing machine needle that should be used depends on the fabric and thread thickness. Refer to the following table when choosing the thread and needle appropriate for the fabric that you wish to sew.
Fabric Type/Application
Medium weight
fabrics
Thin fabrics
Thick fabrics
Type Size
Broadcloth Cotton thread
Taffeta Synthetic thread
Flannel, Gabardine Silk thread 50
Lawn Cotton thread
Georgette Synthetic thread
Challis, Satin Silk thread 50
Denim Cotton thread
Corduroy Synthetic thread
Tweed Silk thread
Thread
Size of Needle
60–90
75/11–90/14
60–90
65/9–75/11
30 100/16
50
90/14–100/16
50–60
1
Stretch fabrics
Easily frayed fabrics
For top-stitching
Jersey
Thread for knits 50–60
Tricot
Cotton thread
50–90
Silk thread 50
Synthetic thread
50 90/14–100/16
Silk thread
Note
z Never use a thread weight of 130/20 or lower. It may cause malfunctions.
Ball point needle
(gold colored)
75/11–90/14
65/9–90/14Synthetic thread
Replacing the Needle 39
GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Memo
z The lower the thread number is, the thicker
the thread, and the higher the needle number, the thicker the needle.
z A 75/11 needle is already installed when the
sewing machine is purchased.
Ball point needle (gold colored)
To avoid skipped stitches use ball point needles with stretch fabrics.
Transparent nylon thread
Use a 90/14 to 100/16 needle, regardless of the fabric or thread.
Embroidery needles
Use a 75/11 home sewing machine needle. When embroidering on thick fabrics such as denim, use a 90/14 or 100/16 home sewing machine needle.
CAUTION
z The appropriate fabric, thread and needle
combinations are shown in the table (page 39). If the combination of the fabric, thread and needle is not correct, particularly when sewing thick fabrics (such as denim) with fine needles (such as 65/9 to 75/11) , the needle may bend or break. In addition, the stitching may be uneven or puckered or there may be skipped stitches.
Checking the needle
Sewing with a bent needle is extremely dangerous since the needle may break while the machine is being operated. Before using the needle, place the flat side of the needle on a flat surface and check that the distance between the needle and the flat surface is even.
a
b
a Flat side b Needle type marking
CAUTION
z If the distance between the needle and
the flat surface is not even, the needle is bent. Do not use a bent needle.
40
a
a
a Flat surface
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Lower the presser foot lever.
Replacing the needle
Use the screwdriver and a needle that has been determined to be straight according to the instructions in "Checking the needle" (page 40).
Press (Needle position button) once or
a
twice to raise the needle.
d
1
a
a Needle position button
Turn off the sewing machine.
b
CAUTION
z Before replacing the needle, be sure to
turn off the sewing machine. Otherwise, injuries may occur if one of the operation buttons is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.
a
a Presser foot lever
Hold the needle with your left hand, and then
e
use a screwdriver to turn the needle clamp screw toward you (counterclockwise) to remove the needle.
a
b
a Screwdriver b Needle clamp screw
• Do not apply a strong force when loosening or tightening the needle clamp screw, otherwise certain parts of the sewing machine may be damaged.
Place fabric or paper under the presser foot
c
and cover the holes on the needle plate.
Note
z Before replacing the needle, place fabric or
paper under the presser foot to prevent the needle from falling into the holes in the needle plate.
With the flat side of the needle toward the rear
f
of the machine, insert the needle until it touches the needle stopper.
a
a Needle stopper
Replacing the Needle 41
GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
While holding the needle with your left hand,
g
use the screwdriver to tighten the needle clamp screw.
Install the twin needle in the same way.
CAUTION
z Be sure to insert the needle until it
touches the needle stopper and securely tighten the needle clamp screw with the screwdriver. Otherwise, the needle may break or damage may result.
42
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Replacing the Presser Foot
This section describes how to replace the presser foot.
Presser foot precautions
Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the presser foot.
CAUTION
Use the presser foot appropriate for the type of stitch that you wish to sew, otherwise the needle may hit the presser foot, causing the needle to bend or break.
Only use presser feet designed specifically for this sewing machine. Use of any other presser foot may result in injuries or damage to the machine.
Replacing the presser foot
CAUTION
Replace the presser foot as described below.
Memo
z For details on attaching the embroidery foot
"Q", refer to "Attaching the Embroidery Foot" (page 120).
z Zigzag foot "J" is already installed when the
sewing machine is purchased.
Press (Needle position button) once or
a
twice to raise the needle.
a
z Before replacing the presser foot, be sure
to turn off the sewing machine. Otherwise, injuries may occur if one of the operation buttons is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.
Raise the presser foot lever.
c
1
a Needle position button
Turn off the sewing machine.
b
a
a Presser foot lever
X The presser foot is raised.
Press the black button at the back of the
d
presser foot holder.
a
b
a Black button b Presser foot holder
X The presser foot holder releases the presser
foot.
Replacing the Presser Foot 43
GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Place a different presser foot below the holder
e
so that the presser foot pin is aligned with the notch in the holder.
Position the presser foot so the letter indicating the presser foot type (A, G, I, J, M, N or R) is positioned to be read.
Note
z When a stitch is selected, the icon for the
presser foot that should be used appears in the screen. Check that the correct presser foot is attached before starting to sew. If the wrong presser foot is installed, turn off the
a
sewing machine, attach the correct presser foot, and then select the desired stitch again.
b
a Presser foot holder b Notch c Pin
Slowly lower the presser foot lever so that the
f
presser foot pin snaps into the notch in the
c
presser foot holder.
a
b
c
d
Buttonhole foot "A"
Overcasting foot "G"
Zigzag foot "J"
Button fitting foot "M"
Monogramming foot "N"
Blind stitch foot "R"
Side cutter "S" (option)
z For details on the presser foot that should be
used with the selected stitch, refer to "Stitch Setting Chart" (page 70).
a Presser foot lever b Presser foot holder c Notch d Pin
X The presser foot is attached.
Raise the presser foot lever to check that the
g
presser foot is securely attached.
44
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Attaching the presser foot holder
Removing and attaching the presser foot holder
Remove the presser foot holder when cleaning the sewing machine or when installing a presser foot that does not use the presser foot holder, such as the embroidery foot, optional free-motion open toe quilting foot "O" and optional walking foot. Use the screwdriver to remove the presser foot holder.
Raise the presser foot lever.
a
X The presser foot is raised.
Align the presser foot holder with the lower-
b
left side of the presser bar.
1
CAUTION
z Before attaching/removing the presser
foot, be sure to turn off the sewing machine. Otherwise, injuries may occur if one of the operation buttons is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.
Remove the presser foot.
a
• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 43).
Use the screwdriver to loosen the presser foot
b
holder screw.
c
a
b
a Screwdriver b Presser foot holder c Presser foot holder screw d Presser bar
X The presser foot is removed from the presser
bar.
d
a
b
a Presser bar b Presser foot holder
Hold the presser foot holder in place with your
c
right hand, and then tighten the screw using the screwdriver in your left hand.
a
b
a Screwdriver b Presser foot holder
CAUTION
z Do not hit the needle with your finger or
the presser foot when attaching/removing it. The needle may break or cause injury.
z Be sure to tighten the screw with the
included screwdriver. If the screw is loose, the needle may hit the presser foot and break or bend.
Replacing the Presser Foot 45
GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Sewing Cylindrical Pieces
Free-arm sewing makes sewing cylindrical pieces easy.
Free-arm sewing
Removing the flat bed attachment allows for free-arm sewing, making it easier to sew cylindrical pieces such as sleeve cuffs and pant legs.
Remove the flat bed attachment.
a
a
a Flat bed attachment
X With the flat bed attachment removed, free-
arm sewing is possible.
Slide the part that you wish to sew onto the
b
arm, and then sew from the top.
a
a Arm
When you have finished free-arm sewing,
c
reconnect the flat bed attachment.
46
2 SEWING BASICS
The necessary preparations for sewing are described in this chapter.
Sewing.....................................................................................................................48
Setting the Stitch .....................................................................................................57
Useful Functions......................................................................................................61
Useful Sewing Tips ..................................................................................................65
SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Sewing
Basic sewing operations are described below. Before operating the sewing machine, read the following precautions.
CAUTION
While the machine is in operation, pay special attention to the needle location. In addition,
z
keep your hands away from all moving parts such as the needle and handwheel, otherwise injuries may occur.
z Do not pull or push the fabric too hard while sewing, otherwise injuries may occur or the
needle may break.
z Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries. z Make sure that the needle does not strike basting pins, otherwise the needle may break or
bend.
General sewing procedure
Follow the basic procedures below to sew.
Attach the presser foot that is appropriate for the type of stitch that you wish to sew. Be sure to turn off the main power before replacing the
1 Attach the presser foot.
2 Turn on the machine.
3 Select the stitch.
4 Position the fabric.
5 Start sewing.
6 Cut the thread.
presser foot. For details on replacing the presser foot, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 43).
Turn on the sewing machine. For details on turning on the machine, refer to "Turning on the machine" (page 17).
Select the stitch appropriate for the area to be sewn. For details on selecting a stitch, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 49).
Place the area to be sewn under the presser foot. Be sure that the fabric pieces are sewn in the correct order and that the right and wrong sides of the fabric are aligned correctly. For details on positioning the fabric, refer to "Positioning the fabric" (page 50).
Start sewing. For details on starting to sew, refer to "Starting to sew" (page 51).
Cut the thread at the end of sewing. Automatic thread cutting is also possible. For details on cutting the thread, refer to "Cutting the thread" (page 55).
48
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Select a stitch.
d
Selecting stitching
Stitches are selected using LCD operations. Turn the power on, the utility stitch selecting screen appears and the straight stitch (left needle position) is selected.
Determine the stitch to be used, and select the
a
recommended presser foot.
• Refer to "Stitch Setting Chart" (page 70).
(Previous page key) displays the previous
page, and (Next page key) displays the
next page.
Attach the presser foot.
b
The machine comes with zigzag foot "J" attached.
• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 43).
CAUTION
z
Use the presser foot appropriate for selected stitch. If the wrong presser foot is used, the needle may hit the presser foot and bend or break.
Turn on the sewing machine.
c
• When an animation is displayed on the screen, touch the LCD with your finger.
X The straight stitch (left needle position) is
shown selected on the screen.
Memo
z When touching the screen with your finger
is difficult, use the included touch pen.
Example: When
X The number of selected stitch, the stitch
width and the stitch length are displayed.
If necessary, specify the settings for automatic
e
reverse/reinforcement stitching and adjust the stitch length, etc.
• For details on sewing with each of the utility stitches, refer to Chapter 3, "UTILITY STITCHES" which begins from page 70.
11
is selected:
Note
z When a stitch is selected, the icon for the
presser foot that should be used appears on the screen. Check that the correct presser foot is attached before starting to sew. If the wrong presser foot is installed, turn off the sewing machine, attach the correct presser foot, and then select the desired stitch again.
2
Memo
z For details on setting automatic reverse/
reinforcement stitching etc., refer to "Useful Functions" (page 61).
z For details on adjusting the stitch width,
stitch length and thread tension, refer to "Setting the Stitch" (page 57).
Sewing 49
SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
While holding the end of the thread and the
d
Positioning the fabric
fabric with your left hand, turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) with your right
Be sure that the fabric pieces are sewn in the correct order and that the right and wrong sides of the fabric
hand to lower the needle to the starting point of the stitching.
are aligned correctly.
Turn on the machine.
a
Press (Needle position button) once or
b
twice to raise the needle.
a
a Needle position button
Place the fabric under the presser foot.
c
Memo
z If the seam allowance is positioned on the
right side, sewing in a straight line is easier and the extra fabric does not get in the way.
Lower the presser foot lever.
e
a
a Presser foot lever
X The fabric is now positioned to be sewn.
50
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Starting to sew
Once you are ready to start sewing, you can start the sewing machine. Sewing can be started and stopped using the operation button (Start/stop button) or the foot controller. For details on the foot controller, refer to next page.
Memo
Memo
z When the foot controller is plugged
in, (Start/stop button) cannot be used to start sewing.
Using the operation button
Sewing can be started and stopped using the operation button (Start/stop button).
z The machine will sew at a slow speed at the
beginning of sewing.
z If you press and hold the (Start/stop
button) while sewing, the machine will sew at a slow speed. If you use this function at the point just before the position where you want to stop the machine, you can stop the machine with more precision.
2
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or
a
right to select the desired sewing speed.
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to sew at a slower speed, or slide the speed controller to the right to sew at a faster speed.
a
a Sewing speed controller
Press (Start/stop button) once.
b
When the end of the stitching is reached, press
c
X The machine stops sewing with the needle
Cut the threads.
d
• For details, refer to "Cutting the thread" (page
(Start/stop button) once.
lowered (in the fabric).
55).
Note
z This machine will automatically stop when
the bobbin becomes almost empty. When the machine stops, replace the bobbin thread, and then press (Start/stop button) to begin sewing again.
a
a Start/stop button
X The machine starts sewing.
Sewing 51
SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Using the foot controller
Sewing can be started and stopped using the foot controller.
Turn off the sewing machine.
a
Note
z When connecting the foot controller, be sure
to turn off the sewing machine in order to prevent the machine from accidentally being started.
Insert the foot controller plug into its jack on
b
the right side of the sewing machine.
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or
d
right to select the desired sewing speed.
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to sew at a slower speed, or slide the speed controller to the right to sew at a faster speed.
a
a Sewing speed controller
X The speed set using the sewing speed
controller is the foot controller's maximum sewing speed.
Once you are ready to start sewing, slowly
e
press down on the foot controller.
Pressing down on the foot controller increases the sewing speed; releasing the pressure on the foot controller decreases the sewing speed.
a Foot controller jack
Memo
(For U.S.A. only) z Foot controller: Model T
This foot controller can be used on this machine model BL137A.
Turn on the machine.
c
a
Slower
Faster
• Slowly press down on the foot controller. Pressing it down hard starts sewing too quickly.
X The machine starts sewing.
When the end of the stitching is reached,
f
completely release the foot controller.
X The machine stops sewing with the needle
lowered (in the fabric).
Cut the threads.
g
• For details, refer to "Cutting the thread" (page
55).
52
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Memo
z When the foot controller is plugged in,
(Start/stop button) cannot be used to
start sewing.
z When sewing is stopped, the needle remains
lowered (in the fabric). The machine can be set so that the needle will stay up when sewing is stopped. For details on setting the machine so that the needle stays up when sewing is stopped, refer to "Changing the machine settings" (page 19).
CAUTION
Do not allow thread or dust to
z
accumulate in the foot controller, otherwise a fire or an electric shock may occur.
z Do not place objects on the foot
controller, otherwise damage to the machine or injuries may occur.
z If the machine is not to be used for a long
period of time, unplug the foot controller, otherwise a fire or an electric shock may occur.
Securing the stitching
When sewing with the straight stitch, for example, at the end of an opening or where seams do not overlap, use reverse stitching or reinforcement stitching to secure the end of the thread.
Lower the needle into the fabric at the
a
beginning of the stitching, then lower the presser foot.
Press (Start/stop button), or press
b
down on the foot controller.
At this time, if (Start/stop button) is held down, the machine sews at a slow speed.
• For details, refer to "Starting to sew" (page
51).
2
a
a Start/stop button
X The machine starts sewing.
Sewing 53
SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
After sewing 3 to 5 stitches, press
c
(Reverse/reinforcement stitch button).
Keep (Reverse/reinforcement stitch button) held down until you reach the beginning of the stitching.
• The machine sews at a slow speed when (Reverse/reinforcement stitch button) is
held down.
a
a Reverse/reinforcement stitch button
X While (Reverse/reinforcement stitch
button) is held down, reverse stitches are sewn.
After sewing back to the beginning of the
d
stitching, release (Reverse/reinforcement stitch button).
X The machine stops sewing.
Press (Start/stop button), or press
e
down on the foot controller.
X The machine starts sewing in the normal
sewing direction.
When the end of the stitching is reached, press
f
(Reverse/reinforcement stitch button).
Keep (Reverse/reinforcement stitch button) held down until 3 to 5 reverse stitches are sewn.
X While (Reverse/reinforcement stitch
button) is held down, reverse stitches are sewn.
After 3 to 5 reverse stitches have been sewn,
g
release (Reverse/reinforcement stitch button).
X The machine stops sewing.
Press (Start/stop button), or press
h
down on the foot controller.
At this time, if (Start/stop button) is held down, the machine sews at a slow speed.
X The machine starts sewing in the normal
sewing direction.
After sewing to the end of the stitching, the
i
sewing machine stops.
Release (Start/stop button) or foot controller.
54
Press
3
Press
4
a Beginning of stitching b End of stitching
a
Press
1
Press
2
Press
5
6
b
Press
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Sewing stitches
When (Reverse/reinforcement stitch button) is pressed with stitches other than 1 , 3 and 7 stitches, reinforcement stitches are used. Reinforcement stitches are 3 to 5 stitches sewn on top of each other in one place.
Cutting the thread
When you have finished sewing, cut the thread.
Using the thread cutter button
When you wish to finish the stitching, press
a
(Thread cutter button) once.
2
a
a Reverse stitching b Reinforcement stitching
b
Memo
z The sewing machine can be set to
automatically sew reverse or reinforcement stitches at the beginning and end of the stitching. For details, refer to "Automatic sewing reverse/reinforcement stitches" (page
61).
a
a Thread cutter button
X The threads are cut and the needle is raised.
Note
z The thread cutter button cannot be used
when the presser foot lever is raised.
Raise the presser foot lever, then remove the
b
fabric.
a
a Presser foot lever
CAUTION
z Do not press (Thread cutter button)
after threads have already been cut, otherwise the needle may break, the threads may become tangled or damage to the machine may occur.
z Do not press (Thread cutter button) if
there is no fabric under the presser foot or while the machine is sewing, otherwise damage to the machine may occur.
Memo
z The machine can be set so that the thread
will be cut automatically when sewing is finished. For details, refer to "Automatically cutting the thread" (page 62).
Sewing 55
SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Using the thread cutter
When sewing with nylon or metallic threads, or other special threads, use the thread cutter on the side of the machine to cut the threads.
When you wish to finish the stitching and the
a
sewing machine is stopped, press (Needle position button) once to raise the needle.
a
a Needle position button
Raise the presser foot lever.
b
a
a Presser foot lever
Pull the fabric to the left side of the machine,
c
and then pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them.
a
a Thread cutter
56
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Setting the Stitch
This machine is preset with the default settings for the stitch width and stitch length for each stitch. However, you can change any of the settings by pressing in the screen, then follow the procedure described in this section.
Note
z Settings for some stitches cannot be changed. For details, refer to "Stitch Setting Chart" (page 70). z Stitch settings return to their defaults if they are changed, when the machine is turned off or a different
stitch is selected before the stitch setting is saved. If you want to save settings, refer to "Saving stitch settings" (page 64).
2
Adjusting the stitch width
The stitch width (zigzag width) can be adjusted to make the stitch wider or narrower.
Each press of makes the zigzag stitch narrower.
Each press of makes the zigzag stitch wider.
Memo
z
means the setting cannot be adjusted.
z
If the straight stitch (left needle position or triple stretch stitch) was selected, changing the stitch width changes the needle position. Increasing the width moves the needle to the right; reducing the width moves the needle to the left. For details, refer to "Changing the needle position" (
z Press to return the setting to its default.
z If the foot controller is connected, the
sewing speed controller can be used to adjust the zigzag width. For details, refer to "Adjusting stitch width using the sewing speed controller" (page 58).
page 79
).
CAUTION
z After adjusting the stitch width, slowly
turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.
Setting the Stitch 57
SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Adjusting stitch width using the sewing speed controller
A decorative stitch can be sewn by changing the stitch width. If the sewing machine is set so that the stitch width can be adjusted using the sewing speed controller, the stitch width can quickly and easily be adjusted. In this case, the sewing speed is adjusted with the foot controller.
Connect the foot controller.
a
• For details, refer to "Using the foot controller" (page 52).
Attach zigzag foot "J".
b
J
• For details on replacing the presser foot, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 43).
Turn on the sewing machine, and then press
c
(Settings key) on the operation panel.
Press (Back key).
e
X The initial screen appears again.
Select a stitch.
f
• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page
49).
While sewing, slide the sewing speed
g
controller to adjust the stitch width.
Slide the controller to the left to make the width narrower. Slide the controller to the right to make the width wider.
X The setting screen appears.
Press "ON" for stitch width control setting.
d
X The machine is now set so that the stitch
width can be controlled with the sewing speed controller.
Memo
z If the stitch width control setting is set to
"ON", for stitch width will change to sewing speed controller icon .
Narrower
Wider
• Adjust the sewing speed with the foot controller.
When you have finished sewing, set the stitch
h
width control setting back to "OFF".
Memo
z Although the stitching result differs
depending on the type of fabric being sewn and the thickness of the thread being used, for best results, adjust the stitch length to between 0.3 and 0.5 mm (1/64 and 1/32 inch).
58
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Adjusting the stitch length
The stitch length can be adjusted to make the stitch coarser or finer.
Each press of makes the stitch finer (shorter).
Each press of makes the stitch coarser (longer).
Adjusting the thread tension
You may need to change the thread tension, depending on the fabric and thread being used.
Correct thread tension
The upper thread and the bobbin thread should cross near the center of the fabric. Only the upper thread should be visible from the right side of the fabric, and only the bobbin thread should be visible from the wrong side of the fabric.
a
b
c
d
a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric c Upper thread d Bobbin thread
Upper thread is too tight
If the bobbin thread is visible from the right side of the fabric, the upper thread is too tight.
2
Memo
z means the setting cannot be adjusted.
z Press to return the setting to its
default.
CAUTION
If the stitches are bunched together,
z
increase the stitch length. Continuing to sew with the stitches bunched together may result in the needle bending or breaking.
Note
z If the bobbin thread was incorrectly
threaded, the upper thread may be too tight. In this case, refer to "Installing the bobbin" (page 27) and rethread the bobbin thread.
a
b
c
d
a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric c Upper thread d Bobbin thread e The bobbin thread is visible from the right side of
the fabric.
Turn the thread tension dial to the left to loosen the upper thread.
e
Setting the Stitch 59
SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Memo
z When you finish sewing, remove the bobbin
cover and then make sure that the thread is shown as below. If the thread is not shown as below, the thread is not inserted through the tension-adjusting spring of the bobbin case correctly. Reinsert the thread correctly. For details, refer to page 29.
Upper thread is too loose
If the upper thread is visible from the wrong side of the fabric, the upper thread is too loose.
Note
z If the upper thread was incorrectly threaded,
the upper thread may be too loose. In this case, refer to "Threading the upper thread" (page 32) and rethread the upper thread.
Memo
z If the upper thread is not threaded correctly
or the bobbin is not installed correctly, it may not be possible to set the correct thread tension. If the correct thread tension cannot be achieved, rethread the upper thread and insert the bobbin correctly.
z The level "4" on the tension dial is a guide
for working normal fabrics (medium weight). However, the actual stitch tension you’ll want to use will vary according to the fabric and thread you are using, so you should always sew a stitch sample and adjust stitch tension before beginning on the actual piece to be worked.
z The machine may stop sewing if tension is
set extremely low. This is not a sign that there is anything wrong with your machine. Simply adjust to the correct stitch tension and begin again.
e
a
b
c
d
a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric c Upper thread d Bobbin thread e The upper thread is visible from the wrong side of
the fabric.
Turn the thread tension dial to the right to tighten the upper thread.
60
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Useful Functions
Functions useful in improving sewing efficiency are described below.
Position the fabric under the presser foot, and
d
Automatic sewing reverse/ reinforcement stitches
The sewing machine can be set to automatically sew reverse or reinforcement stitches at the beginning and end of the stitching. Depending on the selected stitch, reverse stitches or reinforcement stitches are automatically set. For details on reverse/ reinforcement stitching, refer to "Stitch Setting Chart" (page 70).
Turn on the machine.
a
X The LCD comes on.
Select a stitch.
b
• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 49).
then press (Start/stop button) once.
a
a Start/stop button
X Stitching starts after reverse stitching or
reinforcement stitching.
After reaching the end of the stitching, press
e
(Reverse/reinforcement stitch button) once.
Buttonholes or bar tacking require reinforcement stitching making this operation unnecessary.
2
Press on the LCD.
c
X It turns to , and the sewing machine is
set for automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching.
Memo
z To turn automatic reverse/reinforcement
stitching off, press .
z When the sewing machine is turned off, the
automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching setting is cancelled.
z When the stitch such as those for sewing
buttonholes and bar tacks is selected, reinforcement stitches are automatically sewn.
a
a Reverse/reinforcement stitch button
X After reverse/reinforcement stitches are
sewn, the sewing machine stops.
Useful Functions 61
SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Press on the screen.
Memo
z Press (Start/stop button) when you
want to stop the sewing machine in the middle of sewing without reverse stitching or reinforcement stitching (for example, when you want to change the sewing direction). The sewing machine stops without reverse stitching or reinforcement stitching. Press (Reverse/reinforcement stitch button) at the end of the stitching.
c
X You get , and the sewing machine is
set for programmed thread-cutting and automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching.
1
a
2
4
a Stop the machine and change the sewing
direction.
b Start the machine again.
b
3
Automatically cutting the thread
The sewing machine can be set to automatically cut the threads at the end of the stitching. This is called "programmed thread-cutting". If programmed thread-cutting is set, automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching is also set.
Turn on the machine.
a
Memo
z To turn programmed thread cutting off,
press .
Position the fabric under the presser foot, and
d
then press (Start/stop button) once.
a
a Start/stop button
X Stitching starts after reverse stitching or
reinforcement stitching.
X The LCD comes on.
Press the stitch selection.
b
• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 49).
62
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
After reaching the end of the stitching, press
e
(Reverse/reinforcement stitch button)
once.
Buttonholes or bar tacking require reinforcement stitching making this operation unnecessary.
X After the reverse stitching or reinforcement
stitching has been done, the sewing machine stops, and the thread is cut.
Mirroring stitches
You can sew the mirror image of a stitch horizontally (left and right).
Turn on the machine.
a
X The LCD comes on.
Select a stitch.
b
• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 49).
2
The thread is cut here.
Memo
z Press (Start/stop button) when you
want to stop the sewing machine in the middle of sewing without programmed thread-cutting (for example, when you want to change the sewing direction). The sewing machine stops without programmed thread cutting. Press (Reverse/reinforcement stitch button) at the end of the stitching.
1
a
2
c
4
a Stop the machine and change the sewing
direction.
b Start the machine again. c The thread is cut here.
z If the power is turned off, programmed
thread-cutting will be turned off.
b
3
Press on the screen.
c
X It turns to , and the pattern displayed at
the top of the screen is mirrored.
Memo
z To cancel the mirror image setting,
press .
z Mirror image is not possible for buttonholes
and other stitches where shows.
z When the sewing machine is turned off, the
mirror image setting is cancelled.
Useful Functions 63
SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Saving stitch settings
This machine is preset with the default settings for the stitch width (zigzag width), stitch length, programmed thread-cutting, and automatic reverse/ reinforcement stitching for each stitch. However, if you wish to save specific settings for a stitch so that they can be used later, press after changing the settings to save the new settings with the selected stitch. This feature can be used only with utility stitches. The settings you saved will not be cleared if the machine is turned off.
To use a stitch length of 2.0 mm for the straight stitch
Select a straight stitch.
a
Press .
b
Memo
z The default stitch length is 2.5 mm.
Set the stitch length to 2.0 mm.
c
Note
z All stitch settings (stitch width (zigzag
width), stitch length, programmed thread­cutting, and automatic reverse/ reinforcement stitching, etc.) are saved, not just the setting that was changed. When the same stitch pattern is selected, the last settings saved are displayed even if the machine was turned off. If the settings are changed again and is pressed, or if
is pressed to reset the setting to its
default, the new settings are not saved unless
is pressed another time. Even if is pressed, the settings for programmed thread-cutting and automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching are saved in the machine.
Press .
d
• To reset the selected stitch patterns to its default settings, press , and then press .
X The confirmation message is displayed.
Press .
e
X The next time that the same straight stitch is
selected, the stitch length is set to 2.0 mm.
64
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Useful Sewing Tips
Various ways to achieve better results for your sewing projects are described below. Refer to these tips when sewing your project.
Trial sewing
After you have set up the machine with the thread and needle appropriate for the type of fabric being sewn, the machine automatically sets the stitch length and width for the stitch that is selected. However, a trial piece of fabric should be sewn. Depending on the type of fabric and stitching being sewn, the desired results may vary. For trial sewing, use a piece of fabric and thread that are the same as those used for your project, and check the thread tension and stitch length and width. Since the results may vary depending on the type of stitching and the number of layers of fabric sewn, perform the trial sewing under the same conditions that will be used with your project.
Changing the sewing direction
When the stitching reaches a corner, stop the
a
sewing machine.
Leave the needle lowered (in the fabric). If the needle remained up when the machine stopped sewing, press (Needle position button) to lower the needle.
Sewing curves
Stop sewing, and then slightly change the sewing direction to sew around the curve. For details on sewing with an even seam allowance, refer to "Sewing an even seam allowance" (page 67).
When sewing along a curve while using a zigzag stitch, select a shorter stitch length in order to obtain a finer stitch.
2
Raise the presser foot lever, and then turn the
b
fabric.
Turn the fabric using the needle as a pivot.
Lower the presser foot lever and continue
c
sewing.
Sewing thick fabrics
If the fabric does not fit under the presser foot
Raise the presser foot lever even higher to bring the presser foot to its highest position.
Useful Sewing Tips 65
SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
If thick seams are being sewn and the fabric does not feed at the beginning of stitching
Zigzag foot "J" is equipped with a feature that keeps the presser foot level.
Sewing hook-and-loop fastener
CAUTION
z Use only the ungummed hook-and-loop
a
a Sewing direction
Raise the presser foot lever.
a
Press the black button (presser foot holding
b
pin) on the left side of zigzag foot "J". Keep the button held in and lower the presser foot.
a
a Presser foot holding pin
X Release the button. The foot will lock in
place level with the seam, allowing the fabric to feed.
fastener designed for sewing. If the glue adheres to the needle or the bobbin hook race, it may cause malfunction.
z If the hook-and-loop fastener is sewn with
a fine needle (65/9-75/11), the needle may bend or break.
Note
z Before starting to sew, baste the fabric and
hook-and-loop together.
Make sure that the needle passes through the hook­and-loop fastener by turning the handwheel and lower the needle into the hook-and-loop fastener before sewing. And then, sew the edge of the hook­and-loop fastener at a slow speed. If the needle does not pass through the hook-and­loop fastener, replace the needle with the needle for thick fabrics (page 39).
a
X Once the trouble spot has been passed, the
foot will return to its normal position.
CAUTION
z If fabric more than 6 mm (15/64 inch)
thick is sewn or if the fabric is pushed with too much force, the needle may bend or break.
66
a Edge of the hook-and-loop fastener
Sewing thin fabrics
When sewing thin fabrics, the stitching may become misaligned or the fabric may not feed correctly. If this occurs, place thin paper or stabilizer material under the fabric and sew it together with the fabric. When you have finished sewing, tear off any excess paper.
a
a Stabilizer material or paper
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Aligning the fabric with a needle plate marking
Sewing stretch fabrics
First, baste the pieces of fabric together, and then sew without stretching the fabric.
The markings on the needle plate show the distance from the needle position of a seam sewn with the straight stitch (left needle position). Sew while keeping the edge of the fabric aligned with a marking in the needle plate. The distance between the markings in the upper scale is 1/8 inch (3 mm) and the distance between the markings in the grid is 5 mm (3/16 inch).
a
a Basting
Using the stretch stitches or the thread for knits gives an attractive finish.
4591034
Sewing an even seam allowance
To sew an even seam, start sewing so that the seam allowance is to the right of the presser foot, and the edge of the fabric is aligned with either the right edge of the presser foot or a marking on the needle plate.
Aligning the fabric with the presser foot
Sew while keeping the right edge of the presser foot aligned with a fixed distance from the edge of the fabric.
1
2
a Seam b Presser foot c Centimeters d Inches e Needle plate f 1.6 cm (5/8 inch)
5
2
4
3
6
a Seam b Presser foot
Memo
z If the straight stitch (left needle position,
triple stretch stitch, basting stitch etc.) is selected, you can change the distance between the seam and the right edge of the presser foot by changing the stitch width. For details, refer to "Changing the needle position" (page 79).
Useful Sewing Tips 67
SEWING BASICS — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
68
3 UTILITY STITCHES
The various stitches and their applications are described in this chapter.
Stitch Setting Chart .................................................................................................70
Overcasting Stitches................................................................................................74
Basic Stitching .........................................................................................................78
Blind Hem Stitching ................................................................................................80
Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing........................................................................83
Zipper Insertion.......................................................................................................90
Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape .................................................................. 95
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching ................................................................97
Reinforcement Stitching ........................................................................................103
Eyelet Stitching......................................................................................................108
Decorative Stitching.............................................................................................. 109
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Stitch Setting Chart
Applications, stitch lengths and widths and whether the twin needle can be used are listed for utility stitches in the following table.
Utility stitches
Stitch Name Pattern
Straight
stitch
Left
Center
Triple stretch stitch
Stretch stitch
Basting stitch
Zigzag
stitch
Center
Right
2-point
zigzag stitch
3-point
zigzag stitch
Stitch Width
Application
Presser Foot
1
2
3
4
5
6
Basic stitching, sewing gathers or
J
pintucks, etc.
Basic stitching and sewing
J
gathers or pintucks
Attaching zippers, basic
J/I
stitching, sewing gathers or pintucks, etc.
Attaching sleeves, sewing
J
inseams, sewing stretch fabrics and decorative stitching
Sewing stretch fabrics and
J
decorative stitching
J Temporarily securing
7
8
9
10
11
Overcasting and attaching
J
appliqués
Beginning sewing from the right
J
needle position
Overcasting on mediumweight
J
or stretch fabrics, attaching elastic, darning, etc.
Overcasting on mediumweight
J
or stretch fabrics, attaching elastic, darning, etc.
Overcasting on thin or
G
mediumweight fabrics
[mm (inch)]
Auto Manual Auto Manual
0.0
0.0–7.0
(0)
(0–1/4)
0.0
0.0–7.0
(0)
(0–1/4)
3.5
0.0–7.0
(1/8)
(0–1/4)
0.0
0.0–7.0
(0)
(0–1/4)
1.0
1.0–3.0
(1/16)
(1/16–1/8)
0.0
0.0–7.0
(0)
(0–1/4)
3.5
0.0–7.0
(1/8)
(0–1/4)
3.5
2.5–5.0
(1/8)
(3/32–3/16)
5.0
1.5–7.0
(3/16)
(1/16–1/4)
5.0
1.5–7.0
(3/16)
(1/16–1/4)
3.5
2.5–5.0
(1/8)
(3/32–3/16)
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Reverse/
Reinforcement
Stitching
Twin Needle
2.5
(3/32)
2.5
(3/32)
2.5
(3/32)
2.5
(3/32)
2.5
(3/32)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
1.5–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Yes
Reverse No
(J)
Yes
Reinforcement Yes
(J)
Yes
Reverse No
(J)
Yes
Reinforcement No
(J)
Yes
Reinforcement No
(J)
No Reinforcement No
1.4
(1/16)
1.4
(1/16)
1.0
(1/16)
1.0
(1/16)
2.0
(1/16)
0.0–4.0 (0–3/16)
0.3–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Yes
Reverse No
(J)
Yes
Reinforcement Yes
(J)
Yes
Reinforcement Yes
(J)
Yes
Reinforcement No
(J)
No Reinforcement No
Walking Foot
Overcasting stitch
70
12
14
15
16
G Overcasting on thick fabrics
13
Overcasting on thick fabrics and
G
decorative stitching
J Overcasting on stretch fabrics
Overcasting on thick or stretch
J
fabrics
Overcasting on stretch fabrics
J
and decorative stitching
5.0
(3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
4.0
(3/16)
2.5–5.0
(3/32–3/16)
3.5–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
2.5
(3/32)
2.5
(3/32)
2.5
(3/32)
4.0
(3/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
0.5–4.0
(1/32–3/16)
0.5–4.0
(1/32–3/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No Reinforcement No
No Reinforcement No
Yes
Reinforcement No
(J)
Yes
Reinforcement No
(J)
Yes
Reinforcement No
(J)
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Stitch Name Pattern
Blind hem stitch
Appliqué stitch
Shell tuck stitch
Piecing straight stitch
Straight stitch that
looks hand-sewn
(for quilting)
Zigzag stitch (for quilting)
Appliqué stitch
(for quilting)
Quilting stitch
(for stippling)
Satin scallop stitch
Stitch Width
Application
Presser Foot
17
18
19
20
21
Blind hem stitching on
R
mediumweight fabrics
Blind hem stitching on stretch
R
fabrics
J Appliqué stitching
J Shell tuck stitching
Piecing straight stitching (with a seam allowance of 6.5 mm (1/4
J
inch) from the right edge of the
[mm (inch)]
Auto Manual Auto Manual
00 3→3
00 3→3
3.5
2.5–7.0
(1/8)
(3/32–1/4)
4.0
0.0–7.0
(3/16)
(7/32)
5.5
(0–1/4)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
presser foot)
22
23
24
25
26
27
Piecing straight stitching (with a seam allowance of 6.5 mm (1/4
J
inch) from the left edge of the presser foot)
Straight stitch quilting that looks
J
hand-sewn
Appliqué quilting, free-motion
J
quilting, satin stitching
J Attaching appliqués and binding
Quilting background stitching
J
(stippling)
N Scallop stitching
1.5
(1/16)
0.0 (0)
3.5
(1/8)
1.5
(1/16)
7.0
(1/4)
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
0.5–3.5
(1/32–1/8)
1.0–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
2.0
(1/16)
2.0
(1/16)
2.5
(3/32)
(1/16–3/16)
2.5
(3/32)
(1/64–3/16)
2.0
(1/16)
(1/64–3/16)
2.0
(1/16)
(1/64–3/16)
2.5
(3/32)
(1/16–3/16)
1.4
(1/16)
1.8
(1/16)
(1/16–3/16)
1.6
(1/16)
(1/16–3/16)
0.5
(1/32)
(1/64–1/16)
1.0–3.5
(1/16–1/8)
1.0–3.5
(1/16–1/8)
1.6–4.0
0.2–4.0
0.2–5.0
0.2–5.0
1.0–4.0
0.0–4.0 (0–3/16)
1.0–4.0
1.0–4.0
0.1–1.0
Reverse/
Reinforcement
Stitching
Twin Needle
No Reinforcement No
No Reinforcement No
Yes
Reinforcement No
(J)
Yes
Reinforcement No
(J)
No Reinforcement No
No Reinforcement Yes
No Reinforcement No
No Reinforcement Yes
No Reinforcement No
No Reinforcement No
Yes
Reinforcement No
(J)
Walking Foot
3
Joining stitch
Smocking stitch
Fagoting stitch
Elastic-attaching
stitch
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
Patchwork stitching and
J
decorative stitching
Patchwork stitching, decorative stitching and sewing overcasting
J
on both pieces of fabric, such as with tricot
Patchwork stitching and
J
decorative stitching
Smocking stitching and
J
decorative stitching
Fagoting and decorative
J
stitching
Fagoting and decorative
J
stitching
Attaching elastic to stretch
J
fabrics
4.0
(3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
1.2
(1/16)
2.5
(3/32)
1.2
(1/16)
1.6
(1/16)
2.5
(3/32)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
Yes
Reinforcement No
(J)
Yes
Reinforcement No
(J)
Yes
Reinforcement No
(J)
Yes
Reinforcement No
(J)
Yes
Reinforcement No
(J)
Yes
Reinforcement No
(J)
Yes
Reinforcement No
(J)
Stitch Setting Chart 71
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Stitch Name Pattern
Decorative stitch
Stitch Width
Application
Presser Foot
35
36
37
J Decorative stitching
J Decorative stitching
J Decorative stitching
38
39
40
41
42
43
Decorative stitching and
N
elastic-attaching
Lace sewing, decorative
N
hemming, heirloom stitching, etc.
Decorative hemming, heirloom
N
stitching, etc.
Decorative hemming on thin,
N
mediumweight and plain weave fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc.
Decorative hemming on thin,
N
mediumweight and plain weave fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc.
Decorative hemming on thin,
N
mediumweight and plain weave fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc.
44
45
46
47
Decorative hemming on thin,
N
mediumweight and plain weave fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc.
Decorative hemming, ribbon
N
threading, heirloom stitching, etc.
Decorative stitching, smocking
N
stitching, heirloom stitching, etc.
Decorative stitching, smocking
N
stitching, heirloom stitching, etc.
[mm (inch)]
Auto Manual Auto Manual
4.0
0.0–7.0
(3/16)
(3/16)
(7/32)
(3/16)
(15/64)
(3/16)
(3/16)
(3/16)
(3/16)
(3/16)
(15/64)
(3/16)
4.0
5.5
5.0
3.5
(1/8)
6.0
5.0
5.0
5.0
5.0
5.0
6.0
5.0
(0–1/4)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
3.0
(1/8)
(1/16–3/16)
2.5
(3/32)
(1/16–3/16)
1.6
(1/16)
(1/16–3/16)
1.0
(1/16)
(1/64–3/16)
2.5
(3/32)
(1/16–3/16)
3.0
(1/8)
(1/16–3/16)
3.5
(1/8)
(1/16–3/16)
4.0
(3/16)
(1/16–3/16)
2.5
(3/32)
(1/16–3/16)
2.0
(1/16)
(1/16–3/16)
3.0
(1/8)
(1/16–3/16)
1.6
(1/16)
(1/16–3/16)
1.6
(1/16)
(1/16–3/16)
2.0–4.0
1.0–4.0
1.0–4.0
0.2–4.0
1.6–4.0
1.5–4.0
1.5–4.0
1.5–4.0
1.5–4.0
1.5–4.0
1.5–4.0
1.0–4.0
1.0–4.0
Reverse/
Reinforcement
Stitching
Twin Needle
No Reinforcement No
Yes
Reinforcement No
(J)
Yes
Reinforcement No
(J)
Yes
Reinforcement No
(J)
No Reinforcement No
No Reinforcement No
No Reinforcement No
Yes
Reinforcement No
(J)
Yes
Reinforcement No
(J)
Yes
Reinforcement No
(J)
Yes
Reinforcement No
(J)
No Reinforcement No
No Reinforcement No
Walking Foot
72
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Stitch Name Pattern
Buttonhole stitch
Darning stitch
Bar tack stitch
Button-sewing stitch
Eyelet stitch
Side cutter
*1
48
49
50
51
52
53
54
55
56
57
58
59
60
61
62
63
64
65
66
67
Application
Presser Foot
Horizontal buttonholes on thin
A
and mediumweight fabrics
Horizontal buttonholes on areas
A
that are subject to strain
Horizontal buttonholes on thick
A
fabrics
Secured buttonholes for fabrics
A
that have backings
Buttonholes for stretch or knit
A
fabrics
A Buttonholes for stretch fabrics
A Bound buttonholes
Keyhole buttonholes for thick or
A
furry fabrics
Keyhole buttonholes for
A
mediumweight and thick fabrics
Horizontal buttonholes for thick
A
or furry fabrics
A Darning mediumweight fabrics
A Darning thick fabrics
Reinforcing openings and areas
A
where the seam easily comes loose
M Button sewing
Sewing eyelets, for example, on
N
belts
Sewing straight stitches while
S
cutting the fabric
Sewing zigzag stitches while cut-
S
ting the fabric
Overcasting on thin and
S
mediumweight fabrics while cut­ting the fabric
Overcasting on thick fabrics
S
while cutting the fabric
Overcasting on mediumweight
S
and thick fabrics while cutting the fabric
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Auto Manual Auto Manual
5.0
(3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
6.0
(15/54)
6.0
(15/54)
5.0
(3/16)
7.0
(1/4)
7.0
(1/4)
7.0
(1/4)
7.0
(1/4)
7.0
(1/4)
2.0
(1/16)
3.5
(1/8)
7.0
(1/4)
0.0 (0)
3.5
(1/8)
3.5
(1/8)
5.0
(3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
3.0–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
3.0–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
3.0–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
3.0–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
3.0–6.0
(1/8–15/64)
3.0–6.0
(1/8–15/64)
0.0–6.0
(0–15/64)
3.0–7.0
(1/8–1/4)
3.0–7.0
(1/8–1/4)
3.0–7.0
(1/8–1/4)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
1.0–3.0
(1/16–1/8)
2.5–4.5
(3/32–3/16)
7.0, 6.0, 5.0 (1/4, 15/64,
3/16)
0.0–2.5
(0–3/32)
3.5–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
3.5–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
3.5–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
3.5–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
0.5
0.2–1.0
(1/32)
(1/64–1/16)
0.5
0.2–1.0
(1/32)
(1/64–1/16)
0.5
0.2–1.0
(1/32)
(1/64–1/16)
0.5
0.2–1.0
(1/32)
(1/64–1/16)
1.0
0.5–2.0
(1/16)
(1/32–1/16)
1.5
1.0–3.0
(1/16)
(1/16–1/8)
2.0
0.2–4.0
(1/16)
(1/64–3/16)
0.5
0.3–1.0
(1/32)
(1/64–1/16)
0.5
0.3–1.0
(1/32)
(1/64–1/16)
0.5
0.3–1.0
(1/32)
(1/64–1/16)
2.0
0.4–2.5
(1/16)
(1/64–3/32)
2.0
0.4–2.5
(1/16)
(1/64–3/32)
0.4
0.3–1.0
(1/64)
(1/64–1/16)
––No
7.0, 6.0, 5.0
7.0 (1/4, 15/64,
(1/4)
(3/32)
(1/16)
(1/16)
(3/32)
(3/32)
2.5
1.4
2.0
2.5
2.5
3/16)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Reverse/
Reinforcement
Stitching
Twin Needle
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
Automatic
reinforcement
Automatic
reinforcement
Automatic
reinforcement
Automatic
reinforcement
Automatic
reinforcement
Automatic
reinforcement
Automatic
reinforcement
Automatic
reinforcement
Automatic
reinforcement
Automatic
reinforcement
Automatic
reinforcement
Automatic
reinforcement
Automatic
reinforcement
Automatic
reinforcement
Automatic
reinforcement
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No
No Reinforcement No
No Reinforcement No
No Reinforcement No
No Reinforcement No
No Reinforcement No
*1: Side cutter is optional.
Walking Foot
3
Stitch Setting Chart 73
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Overcasting Stitches
Sew overcasting stitches along the edges of cut fabric to prevent them from fraying. 15 stitches are available for overcasting. The procedure for sewing overcasting stitches is explained according to the presser foot that is used.
Sewing overcasting stitches using overcasting foot "G"
Three stitches can be used to sew overcasting with overcasting foot "G".
Stitch Name Pattern Application
Stitch Width [mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Presser
Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
Overcasting
stitch
11
12
13
Preventing fraying in medium weight and thin fabrics
Preventing fraying in thick fabrics and fabrics that fray easily
3.5
(1/8)
5.0
(3/16)
2.5-5.0
(3/32-3/16)
3.5-5.0
(1/8-3/16)
2.0
(1/16)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
CAUTION
Be sure to turn off the main power before replacing the presser foot. Otherwise, injuries may occur if (Start/stop button) is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.
Attach overcasting foot "G".
a
G
Position the fabric with the edge of the fabric
c
against the guide of the presser foot, and then lower the presser foot lever.
G
• For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 43).
Select a stitch.
b
• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 49).
74
a
a Guide
Sew with the edge of the fabric against the
d
presser foot guide.
a
a Needle drop point
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Sewing overcasting stitches using zigzag foot "J"
Seven stitches can be used to sew overcasting stitches with zigzag foot "J".
Stitch Name Pattern Application
Zigzag stitch
(center needle
position)
Zigzag stitch
(right needle
position)
2-point
zigzag stitch
3-point
zigzag stitch
Overcasting
stitch
10
14
15
16
7
Preventing fraying (center baseline/reverse stitching)
8
Preventing fraying (right baseline/reinforcement stitching)
9
Preventing fraying in thick fabrics and stretch fabrics
Preventing fraying in stretch fabrics
Preventing fraying in thick fabrics and stretch fabrics
Preventing fraying in stretch fabrics
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Auto Manual Auto Manual
3.5
(1/8)
5.0
(3/16)
4.0
(3/16)
0.0-7.0 (0-1/4)
2.5-5.0
(3/32-3/16)
1.5-7.0
(1/16-1/4)
0.0-7.0
(0-1/4)
1.4
(1/16)
1.0
(1/16)
2.5
(3/32)
4.0
(3/16)
0.0-4.0 (0-3/16)
0.3-4.0
(1/64-3/16)
0.2-4.0
(1/64-3/16)
0.5-4.0
(1/32-3/16)
1.0-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
Presser
Foot
3
J
CAUTION
Be sure to turn off the main power before replacing the presser foot. Otherwise, injuries may occur if (Start/stop button) is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.
Attach zigzag foot "J".
a
J
• For details on replacing the presser foot, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 43).
Select a stitch.
b
• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 49).
Sew along the edge of the fabric with the
c
needle dropping off the edge at the right.
a
a
a Needle drop point
Overcasting Stitches 75
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
a
Sewing overcasting stitches using the optional side cutter
Using the optional side cutter, seam allowances can be finished while the edge of the fabric is cut off. Five stitches can be used to sew overcasting stitches with the side cutter.
Stitch Name Pattern Application
63
64
65
Side cutter
66
67
Sewing straight stitches while cutting the fabric
Sewing zigzag stitches while cutting the fabric
Preventing fraying in thin and mediumweight fabrics while cutting the fabric
Preventing fraying in thick fabrics while cutting the fabric
Preventing fraying in thick
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Auto Manual Auto Manual
0.0 (0)
3.5
(1/8)
5.0
(3/16)
0.0-2.5 (0-3/32)
3.5-5.0
(1/8-3/16)
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
2.5
(3/32)
1.4
(1/16)
2.0
(1/16)
2.5
(3/32)
Presser
Foot
0.2-5.0
(1/64-3/16)
0.0-4.0 (0-3/16)
S
1.0-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
fabrics while cutting the fabric
CAUTION
Be sure to turn off the main power before replacing the presser foot. Otherwise, injuries may occur if (Start/stop button) is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.
Position the side cutter so that side cutter pin
c
is aligned with the notch in the presser foot holder, and then slowly lower the presser foot lever.
Note
z Thread the needle manually when using the
side cutter, or only attach the side cutter
a
after threading the needle using the needle threader.
Remove the presser foot.
a
• For details on replacing the presser foot, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 43).
a Notch in presser foot holder b Pin
X The side cutter is attached.
Hook the connecting fork of the side cutter
b
onto the needle clamp screw.
b
a Connecting fork b Needle clamp screw
76
b
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Raise the presser foot lever to check that the
d
side cutter is securely attached.
Pass the upper thread under the side cutter,
e
and then pull it out toward the rear of the sewing machine.
Select a stitch.
f
• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 49
).
Position the fabric in the side cutter.
h
The cut in the fabric should be positioned over the guide plate of the side cutter.
a
a Guide plate
Memo
z If the fabric is not positioned correctly, the
fabric will not be cut.
Lower the presser foot lever, and then start
i
sewing.
3
Make a cut of about 2 cm (3/4 inch) long in
g
the fabric at the beginning of the stitching.
1
a 2 cm (3/4 inch)
X A seam allowance is cut while the stitching
is sewn.
Memo
z If the stitching is sewn in a straight line
63
, the seam allowance will be about 5
mm (3/16 inch).
1
a 5 mm (3/16 inch)
z The side cutter can cut as much as one layer
of 13-oz. denim.
z After using the side cutter, clean to remove
any lint or dust.
z If the side cutter can no longer cut fabric,
use a rag to apply a small amount of oil to the cutting edge of the cutter.
Overcasting Stitches 77
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Basic Stitching
Straight stitches are used for sewing plain seams. Five stitches are available for basic stitching.
Stitch Name Pattern Application
Basting stitch
Straight stitch
(left needle
position)
Straight stitch
(center needle
position)
Triple stretch
stitch
6
Temporarily securing
Basic stitching and sewing
1
gathers or pintucks (left baseline/ reverse stitching)
Basic stitching and sewing
2
gathers or pintucks (left baseline/ reinforcement stitching)
Basic stitching and sewing
3
gathers or pintucks (center baseline/reverse stitching)
4
Reinforcing seams and sewing stretch fabrics
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Auto Manual Auto Manual
0.0 (0)
0.0-7.0 (0-1/4)
3.5
(1/8)
0.0 (0)
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
--
0.2-5.0
(1/64-3/16)
2.5
(3/32)
1.5-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
Presser
Foot
CAUTION
Be sure to turn off the main power before replacing the presser foot. Otherwise, injuries may occur if (Start/stop button) is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.
J
Basting
Attach zigzag foot "J".
a
• For details on replacing the presser foot, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 43).
J
Select stitch 6.
b
• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 49).
Start sewing.
c
• For details, refer to "Starting to sew" (page 51).
78
Basic stitching
Baste or pin together the fabric pieces.
a
Attach zigzag foot "J".
b
J
• For details on replacing the presser foot, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 43).
Select a stitch.
c
For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (
page 49
).
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Lower the needle into the fabric at the
d
beginning of the stitching.
Start sewing.
e
• For details, refer to "Starting to sew" (page
51).
• For details on sewing reverse/reinforcement stitches, refer to "Securing the stitching" (page
53).
When sewing is finished, cut the thread.
f
• For details, refer to "Cutting the thread" (page
55).
Changing the needle position
The needle position used as the baseline is different for the straight stitch (left needle position) and the straight stitch (center needle position).
a
a Straight stitch (left needle position) b Straight stitch (center needle position)
b
When the stitch width of the straight stitch (left needle position) is set to its standard setting (0.0 mm), the distance from the needle position to the right side of the presser foot is 12 mm (1/2 inch). If the stitch width is changed (between 0 and 7.0 mm (1/4 inch)), the needle position will also change. By changing the stitch width and sewing with the right side of the presser foot aligned with the edge of the fabric, a seam allowance can be sewn with a fixed width.
3
0.0 2.0 5.5 7.0
a Stitch width setting b Distance from the needle position to the right
side of the presser foot
c 12.0 mm (1/2 inch) d 10.0 mm (3/8 inch) e 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) f 5.0 mm (3/16 inch)
• For details, refer to "Adjusting the stitch width" (page 57).
Basic Stitching 79
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Blind Hem Stitching
Secure the bottoms of skirts and pants with a blind hem. Two stitches are available for blind hem stitching.
Stitch Name Pattern Application
Blind hem
stitch
17
18
Blind hem stitching on mediumweight fabrics
Blind hem stitching on stretch
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Auto Manual Auto Manual
00 3→3
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
2.0
(1/16)
Presser
Foot
1.0-3.5
(1/16-1/8)
fabrics
CAUTION
Be sure to turn off the main power before replacing the presser foot. Otherwise, injuries may occur if (Start/stop button) is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.
Sew a blind hem according to the following procedure.
Memo
z When the size of cylindrical pieces is too small to slide onto the arm or the length is too short, the
fabric will not feed and desired results may not be achieved.
Reverse the skirt or pants.
a
a
Use a chalk to mark on the fabric about 5 mm
c
(3/16 inch) from the edge of the fabric, and then baste it .
R
a Right side of fabric b Bottom side
Fold the fabric along the desired edge of the
b
hem, and press.
1
1
< Seen from the side>
a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric
2
2
2
80
b
< Seen from the side>
a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric c Edge of fabric d Basting stitching e 5 mm (3/16 inch)
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Fold back the fabric inside along the basting.
d
2
4
1
1
< Seen from the side>
a Wrong side of fabric b Edge of fabric c Basting d 5 mm (3/16 inch)
Unfold the edge of fabric, and position the
e
fabric with the wrong side facing up.
1
1
3
3
Remove the flat bed attachment and make
h
free-arm sewing possible.
• For details on free-arm sewing, refer to "Free­arm sewing" (page 46).
Slide the item that you wish to sew onto the
i
arm, make sure that the fabric feeds correctly, and then start sewing.
a
a Arm
Position the fabric with the edge of the folded
j
hem against the guide of the presser foot, and then lower the presser foot lever.
R
3
2
1
< Seen from the side>
a Wrong side of fabric b Basting c Edge of fabric
Attach blind hem foot "R".
f
1
R
• For details on replacing the presser foot, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 43).
Select a stitch.
g
• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page
49).
1
a Wrong side of fabric b Fold of hem c Guide
b
c
Adjust the stitch width until the needle slightly
k
catches the fold of the hem.
R
1
a Needle drop point
When you change the needle drop point, raise the needle, and then change the stitch width.
a
a Stitch width
Blind Hem Stitching 81
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
If the needle catches too much of the hem
fold
The needle is too far to the left. Press to decrease the stitch width so that the needle slightly catches the fold of the hem.
1 2
a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric
If the needle does not catch the hem fold
The needle is too far to the right. Press to increase the stitch width so that the needle slightly catches the fold of the hem.
1 2
a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric
Memo
z For details, refer to "Adjusting the stitch
width" (page 57).
Sew with the fold of the hem against the
l
presser foot guide.
Remove the basting stitching and reverse the
m
fabric.
1
a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric
2
82
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing
Buttonholes can be sewn and buttons can be sewn on. 10 stitches are available for sewing one-step buttonholes, and one stitch is available for attaching the button.
Stitch Name Pattern Application
Buttonhole
stitch
48
49
50
51
52
53
54
55
56
57
Horizontal buttonholes on thin and mediumweight fabrics
Horizontal buttonholes on areas that are subject to strain
Horizontal buttonholes on thick fabrics
Buttonholes with bar tacks on both ends for stabilized fabrics
Buttonholes for stretch or knit fabrics
Buttonholes for stretch fabrics
Bound buttonholes
Keyhole buttonholes for thick or plush fabrics
Keyhole buttonholes for mediumweight and thick fabrics
Horizontal buttonhole for thick or plush fabrics
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Auto Manual Auto Manual
5.0
(3/16)
6.0
(15/64)
5.0
(3/16)
7.0
(1/4)
3.0-5.0
(1/8-3/16)
3.0-6.0
(1/8-15/64)
0.0-6.0
(0-15/64)
3.0-7.0
(1/8-1/4)
0.5
(1/32)
1.0
(1/16)
1.5
(1/16)
2.0
(1/16)
0.5
(1/32)
0.2-1.0
(1/64-1/16)
0.5-2.0
(1/32-1/16)
1.0-3.0
(1/16-1/8)
0.2-4.0
(1/64-3/16)
0.3-1.0
(1/64-1/16)
Presser
Foot
3
A
Button-sewing
stitch
61
Button sewing
3.5
(1/8)
2.5-4.5
(3/32-3/16)
--M
Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing 83
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Buttonhole sewing
The maximum buttonhole length is about 28 mm (1-1/8 inches) (diameter + thickness of the button). Buttonholes are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back, as shown below.
1
1
1
1
a Reinforcement stitching
CAUTION
Be sure to turn off the main power before replacing the presser foot. Otherwise, injuries may occur if (Start/stop button) is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.
The names of parts of buttonhole foot "A", which is used for sewing buttonholes, are indicated below.
1
2
5
6
3
4
A
a Button guide plate b Presser foot scale c Pin d Reference marks e 5 mm (3/16 inch) f Bracket
Use chalk to mark on the fabric the position
a
and length of the buttonhole.
1
a Marks on fabric b Buttonhole sewing
2
84
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Pull out the button guide plate of buttonhole
b
foot "A", and then insert the button that will be put through the buttonhole.
If the button does not fit in the button guide plate
Add together the diameter and thickness of the button, and then set the button guide plate to the calculated length. (The distance between the markings on the presser foot scale is 5 mm (3/16 inch).)
a
b
c
Select a stitch.
d
• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page
49).
Position the fabric with the front end of the
e
buttonhole mark aligned with the red marks on the sides of the buttonhole foot, and then lower the presser foot lever.
a
3
a Presser foot scale b Length of buttonhole (diameter + thickness of
button)
c 5 mm (3/16 inch)
Example: For a button with a diameter of 15 mm (9/16 inch) and a thickness of 10 mm (3/8 inch), the button guide plate should be set to 25 mm (1inch) on the scale.
1
2
a 10 mm (3/8 inch) b 15 mm (9/16 inch)
X The size of the buttonhole is set.
Attach buttonhole foot "A".
c
• For details on replacing the presser foot, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 43).
b
A
a Mark on fabric (front) b Red marks on buttonhole foot
• Pass the upper thread down through the hole in the presser foot.
Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing 85
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Raise the presser foot lever, remove the fabric,
Note
h
and then cut the threads.
z Do not lower the needle into fabric when
aligning the marks. Desired results may not be achieved.
Raise the buttonhole lever to its original
i
position.
z When lowering the presser foot, do not push
in the front of the presser foot.
Insert a pin along the inside of one bar tack at
j
the end of the buttonhole stitching to prevent the stitching from being cut.
1
a Do not reduce the gap.
a
Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as
f
possible.
a Buttonhole lever
a
The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the bracket on the buttonhole foot.
a
a Buttonhole lever b Bracket
b
Gently hold the end of the upper thread in
g
your left hand, and then start sewing.
a Pin
Use the seam ripper to cut towards the pin and
k
open the buttonhole.
a
a Seam ripper
For keyhole buttonholes, use the eyelet punch to make a hole in the rounded end of the buttonhole, and then use the seam ripper to cut open the buttonhole.
a
X Once sewing is completed, the machine
automatically sews reinforcement stitches, then stops.
86
a Eyelet punch
Note
z When using the eyelet punch, place thick
paper or some other protective sheet under the fabric before punching the hole in the fabric.
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics
CAUTION
When opening the buttonhole with the seam ripper, do not place your hands in the cutting path, otherwise injuries may
When sewing buttonholes on stretch or loosely woven fabrics, use a gimp thread.
Hook the gimp thread onto the part of
a
buttonhole foot "A" shown in the illustration.
result if the seam ripper slips.
Do not use the seam ripper in any other way than how it is intended.
Changing the density of the stitching
Adjust the stitch length.
It fits into the grooves, and then loosely tie it.
b
Memo
z For details, refer to "Adjusting the stitch
length" (page 59).
z If the fabric does not feed (for example, if it
is too thick), decrease the density of the stitching.
3
Changing the stitch width
Adjust the stitch width.
Memo
z For details, refer to "Adjusting the stitch
width" (page 57).
z Before sewing buttonholes, check the stitch
length and width by sewing a trial buttonhole on a scrap piece of fabric.
Attach buttonhole foot "A".
c
• For details on replacing the presser foot, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 43).
Select stitch
d
Adjust the stitch width to the thickness of the
e
gimp thread.
Lower the presser foot lever and the
f
buttonhole lever, and then start sewing.
When sewing is finished, gently pull the gimp
g
thread to remove any slack.
Use a handsewing needle to pull the gimp
h
thread to the wrong side of the fabric, and then tie it.
52 or 53
.
Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing 87
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Adjust the stitch width so that it is the same as
e
Button sewing
the distance between the holes in the button.
Buttons can be sewn on with the sewing machine. Buttons with two or with four holes can be attached.
Measure the distance between the holes in the
a
button to be attached.
Raise the presser foot lever, and then slide the
b
drop feed lever, located at the rear of the machine on the base, to (to the left as seen from the rear of the machine).
a
a Drop feed lever (as seen from the rear of the
machine)
X The feed dogs are lowered.
Place the button in the position where it will
f
be sewn, and lower the presser foot lever.
a
a Button
X The button is held in place.
Memo
z When attaching four-hole buttons, first sew
the two holes closest to you. Then, slide the button so that the needle goes into the two holes toward the rear of the sewing machine, and then sew them in the same way.
Attach button-fitting foot "M".
c
• For details on replacing the presser foot, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 43).
Select stitch 61 .
d
• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page
49).
Note
z Since the end of the thread will be tied off
later, do not set the sewing machine for programmed-thread cutting.
Turn the handwheel toward you
g
(counterclockwise) to check that the needle correctly goes into the two holes of the button.
Adjust the stitch width to the distance between the button holes.
CAUTION
When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch the button, otherwise the needle may bend or break.
88
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Start sewing.
h
Set the sewing speed controller to the left (so that the speed will be slow).
X The sewing machine automatically stops
after sewing reinforcement stitches.
Note
z Do not press (Thread cutter button).
Pull the upper thread at the end of the
i
stitching to the wrong side of the fabric, and then tie it with the bobbin thread.
Use scissors to cut the upper thread and the bobbin thread at the beginning of the stitching.
When you are finished attaching t he button, slide the drop feed le ver to (to the right as seen from the rear of the machine).
3
When you have finished attaching the button,
j
slide the drop feed lever to (to the right as seen from the rear of the machine) and turn the handwheel to raise the feed dogs.
Memo
z The drop feed lever is normally set to the
right side.
Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing 89
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Zipper Insertion
A zipper can be inserted.
Stitch Name Pattern Application
Straight stitch
(center needle
position)
Attaching zippers
3
Sewing concealed seams and pintucks
Stitch Width [mm (inch)]
Auto Manual Auto Manual
3.5
(1/8)
0.0-7.0 (0-1/4)
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
2.5
(3/32)
0.2-5.0
(1/64-3/16)
Presser
Foot
I
CAUTION
Be sure to turn off the main power before replacing the presser foot. Otherwise, injuries may occur if (Start/stop button) is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.
There are many methods for inserting zippers. The procedures for inserting a centered zipper and a side zipper are described below.
Using a basting stitch, continue sewing to the
c
Inserting a centered zipper
Stitching is sewn on both pieces of fabric butted against each other.
2
1
edge of the fabric.
1
3
2
4
3
a Right side of fabric b Stitching c End of zipper opening
Attach zigzag foot "J".
a
J
• For details on replacing the presser foot, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 43).
Sew straight stitches up to the zipper opening.
b
With the right sides of the fabric facing each other, sew reverse stitches after reaching the zipper opening.
• For details, refer to "Basic stitching" (page
78).
90
a Basting stitching b Reverse stitches c Wrong side of fabric d End of zipper opening
Press open the seam allowance from the
d
wrong side of the fabric.
1
a Wrong side of fabric
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Align the seam with the center of the zipper,
e
and then baste the zipper in place.
2
1
3
a Wrong side of fabric b Basting stitching c Zipper
Remove about 5 cm (2 inches) from the end of
f
the basting on the outside.
2
3
a Wrong side of fabric b Zipper basting c Outside basting d 5 cm (2 inches)
Attach the presser foot holder to the right pin
g
of zipper foot "I".
a
4
1
Select stitch 3 .
h
• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 49).
CAUTION
When using zipper foot "I", be sure to select the straight stitch (center needle position), and slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) to check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If a different stitch is selected or the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.
Topstitch around the zipper.
i
1
2
3
4
3
I
b
a Pin on the right side b Needle drop point
• For details on replacing the presser foot, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 43).
a Stitching b Right side of fabric c Basting stitching d End of zipper opening
CAUTION
When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch the zipper, otherwise the needle may bend or break.
Remove the basting stitching.
j
Zipper Insertion 91
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Press open the seam allowance from the
d
Inserting a side zipper
wrong side of the fabric.
Stitching is visible on only one piece of fabric. Use this type of zipper application for side openings and back openings.
1
2
3
a Stitching b Right side of fabric c End of zipper opening
The following procedure will describe how to stitch on the left side, as shown in the illustration.
Attach zigzag foot "J".
a
J
• For details on replacing the presser foot, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 43).
Sew straight stitches up to the zipper opening.
b
With the right sides of the fabric facing each other, sew reverse stitches after reaching the zipper opening.
• For details, refer to "Basic stitching" (page
78).
Using a basting stitch, continue sewing to the
c
edge of the fabric.
1
1
a Wrong side of fabric
Press the seam allowance so that the right side
e
(the side that will not be stitched) has an extra 3 mm (1/8 inch).
1
2
a Wrong side of fabric b 3 mm (1/8 inch)
Align the zipper teeth with the pressed edge of
f
the fabric having the extra 3 mm (1/8 inch), and then baste or pin the zipper in place.
2
1
a Zipper teeth b Basting stitching
Attach the presser foot holder to the right pin
g
of zipper foot "I".
If the stitching will be sewn on the right side, attach the presser foot holder to the left pin of the zipper foot.
a
a Basting stitching b Reverse stitches c Wrong side of fabric d End of zipper opening
92
2
4
3
I
b
a Pin on the right side b Needle drop point
• For details on replacing the presser foot, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 43).
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Select stitch 3 .
h
• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 49).
CAUTION
When using zipper foot "I", be sure to select the straight stitch (center needle position), and slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) to check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If a different stitch is selected or the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.
Sew the zipper to the piece of fabric with the
i
extra 3 mm (1/8 inch), starting from the base of the zipper.
When you are about 5 cm (2 inches) from the
j
end of the zipper, stop the sewing machine with the needle lowered (in the fabric), and then raise the presser foot lever.
Open the zipper and continue sewing.
k
Close the zipper, turn over the fabric, and then
l
baste the other side of the zipper to the fabric.
1
3
CAUTION
When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch the zipper, otherwise the needle may bend or break.
a Basting stitching
Attach the presser foot holder to the left pin of
m
zipper foot "I".
If the presser foot holder was attached to the left pin in step
g, change it to the right pin.
a
I
b
a Pin on the left side b Needle drop point
Zipper Insertion 93
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Topstitch around the zipper.
n
Sew reverse stitches at the end of the zipper opening and align the zipper teeth with the side of the presser foot.
3
2
4
1
a Right side of fabric b End of zipper opening c Reverse stitches d Beginning of stitching e Basting stitching
5
CAUTION
When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch the zipper, otherwise the needle may bend or break.
When you are about 5 cm (2 inches) from the
o
end of the zipper, stop the sewing machine with the needle lowered (in the fabric), and then raise the presser foot lever.
Remove the basting stitching, open the zipper,
p
and then continue sewing.
94
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape
Stretch fabrics can be sewn and elastic tape can be attached.
Stitch Width
Stitch Name Pattern Application
[mm (inch)]
Auto Manual Auto Manual
10
34
4
Stretch fabrics
5
Stretch fabrics
9
Attaching elastic
Attaching elastic to stretch fabrics
0.0 (0)
1.0
(1/16)
5.0
(3/16)
4.0
(3/16)
0.0-7.0 (0-1/4)
1.0-3.0
(1/16-1/8)
1.5-7.0
(1/16-1/4)
0.0-7.0 (0-1/4)
Triple stretch
stitch
Stretch stitch
2-point zigzag
stitch
3-point zigzag
stitch
Elastic-
attaching
stitch
Observe the corresponding precautions when performing each of the following stitching operations.
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
2.5
(3/32)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0
(1/16)
Presser
Foot
1.5-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
1.0-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
0.2-4.0
(1/64-3/16)
CAUTION
Be sure to turn off the main power before replacing the presser foot. Otherwise, injuries may occur if (Start/stop button) is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.
Sew the fabric without stretching it.
Stretch stitching
c
J
3
Attach zigzag foot "J".
a
J
• For details on replacing the presser foot, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 43).
Select stitch 4 or 5.
b
• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page
49).
Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape 95
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Sew the elastic tape to the fabric while
d
Elastic attaching
stretching the tape so that it is the same length as the fabric.
When elastic tape is attached to the cuff or waist of a piece of clothing, the finished dimensions will be that of the stretched elastic tape. Therefore, it is necessary that a suitable length of the elastic tape be used.
While pulling the fabric behind the presser foot with your left hand, pull the fabric at the pin nearest the front of the presser foot with your right hand.
Pin the elastic tape to the wrong side of the
a
fabric.
Pin the elastic tape to the fabric at a few points to make sure that the tape is uniformly positioned on the fabric.
1
2
a Elastic tape b Pin
Attach zigzag foot "J".
b
J
• For details on replacing the presser foot, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 43).
Select a stitch.
c
• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 49).
CAUTION
When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch any pins, otherwise the needle may bend or break.
96
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching
The stitches that can be used for sewing appliqués, patchwork and quilts are described below.
Stitch Name Pattern Application
Attaching appliqués
7
(center baseline/reverse
Zigzag stitch
Appliqué
stitch
Piecing
straight stitch
Joining stitch
Mock hand
quilting stitch
Quilting
stippling
24
19
25
21
22
28
29
30
23
26
stitching)
Appliqué quilting, free-motion quilting, satin stitching
Attaching appliqués
Attaching appliqués and binding
Piecing straight stitching (with a seam allowance of 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) from the right edge of the presser foot)
Piecing straight stitching (with a seam allowance of 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) from the left edge of the presser foot)
Patchwork stitching
Straight stitch quilting that looks hand quilted
Stippling
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Auto Manual Auto Manual
3.5
(1/8)
1.5
(1/16)
5.5
(3/16)
1.5
(1/16)
4.0
(3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
0.0 (0)
7.0
(1/4)
0.0-7.0 (0-1/4)
2.5-7.0
(3/32-1/4)
0.5-3.5
(1/32-1/8)
0.0-7.0 (0-1/4)
2.5-7.0
(3/32-1/4)
0.0-7.0 (0-1/4)
1.0-7.0
(1/16-1/4)
1.4
(1/16)
2.5
(3/32)
1.8
(1/16)
2.0
(1/16)
1.2
(1/16)
2.5
(3/32)
1.2
(1/16)
2.5
(3/32)
1.6
(1/16)
0.0-4.0
(0-3/16)
1.6-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
1.0-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
0.2-5.0
(1/64-3/16)
0.2-4.0
(1/64-3/16)
1.0-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
0.2-4.0
(1/64-3/16)
1.0-4.0
(1/16-3/16)
Presser
Foot
3
J
Memo
z Patterns showing a "Q" on the LCD are for quilting and those showing a "P" are for piecing.
CAUTION
Be sure to turn off the main power before replacing the presser foot. Otherwise, injuries may occur if (Start/stop button) is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching 97
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Select a stitch.
Appliqué stitching
Cut out the appliqué, leaving a seam
a
allowance of between 3 and 5 mm (1/8 and 3/
e
• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page
49).
16 inch).
a
a Seam allowance
Place a pattern made of thick paper or
b
stabilizer on the back of the appliqué, and then fold over the seam allowance using an iron.
Turn the handwheel toward you
f
(counterclockwise), and then begin sewing around the edge of the appliqué, making sure that the needle drops just outside of the appliqué.
Turn the fabric over, and then baste or fuse it
c
onto the fabric that it will be attached to.
1
a Basting stitching
Attach zigzag foot "J".
d
J
• For details on replacing the presser foot, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 43).
When sewing around corners, stop the machine with the needle in the fabric just outside of the appliqué, raise the presser foot lever, and then turn the fabric as needed to change the sewing direction.
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