Your pump does not work? There
are Three Basic Problems!
We will deal with all 3 of these problems and step you through a troubleshooting sequence so you can solve the problem
on your own without our intervention and be on your way. All of the pumps undergo 2 types of stringent tests at the
factory; The first is a cycle test in grease with the pump pumping a certain amount of grease per cycle over a stated time
period. The second test is a pressure test with a meter to hold grease pressure at 5000 psi at 100 psi of air pressure for a
stated period of time before they leave the factory. This ensures that your pump will work out of the box.
WARNING:
WARNING: (Again!)
WARNING:
WARNING:
Question Yes No
Does the Air Motor Operate? Next Section Check In-Line Air Pressure to the pump.
Check Air Compressor and FRL for
Is the Air Motor is Leaking Air? Check the Inlet Air Nipple. Use Teflon tape to seal the threads at the Air Inlet.
The Air Motor blows air through the
Muffler / Exhaust Port
Question:
Are you using a FRL
(Filter / Regulator/Lubricator)
on the pump?
Pump does not pump material Check to see if there are any blockages in the Lubricant lines. If all lines are
Air Motor Operates but
nothing comes out.
This is the most
common problem.
If the Air is connected to the pump, consider the pump to be live. Do not
attempt to work on the pump or the system without disconnecting the Air
Inlet and relieving pressure in the system, both air pressure and lube
pressure. Make sure there are no live air pockets in the air motor and all air
has been bled from the Air Motor before working on the pump.
Ensure that all of the Air Pressure and Lubrication Pressure has been bled
out of the system and there is no Residual Lube Pressure or Air Pressure in
the System before you disassemble the pump!! (VERY IMPORTANT!!!!)
Do not stick your finger into the bottom of the Pump Downtube or 61275 Priming
Tube. This could result in amputation!!
Do not stick any type of blunt instrument into the bottom of the Pump Downtube or
61275 Priming Tube as this could ruin or bend the precision parts such a s the
11723 Plunger Rod.
Silicon is not recommended since it can escape into the interior of the Air Motor
and cause damage to the valves. Check the Quick Disconnect Coupler connection
to the Air Hose. Use Teflon tape to seal the threads at the Connection
Check to see that the Air Inlet Nipple is installed in the correct location. Check that
the Brass/Steel Plug is installed in the Air Motor head and is not leaking air. If
there are no air leaks and Air is fully engaged at least 80 psi, then sometimes in
RARE CASES the slide valve will stick in the neutral position: take the rubber part
of a mallet and lightly tap
(41202) with the rubber part only. Did we say “LIGHTLY TAP”Yes, we did.Don’t pound it and Don’t beat it!!! It is a casting and It will dent or Crack!
Sometimes and very rarely the slide Valve sticks in the neutral position and needs
to be prodded off of the neutral position. It also indicates that the Air Motor might
have water damage or the damage is starting or there is water present in the air
line.
Answer: We strongly suggest the use of a Filter / Regulator/Lubricator (FRL) on
the pump. The Filter should be a moisture evaporator with an automatic dump on
it so water is eliminated and purged from the air before entering the pump. If you
do not have a FRL on the pump, chances are the pump head could be
accumulating water and this will corrode the inside of the pump and moving parts,
thereby reducing the life of the pump.
secure: disconnect the Grease Hose from the pump.
THINK SAFETY FIRST!!!!
THINK SAFETY ALWAYS!!!
Air Motor Operates;
Grease comes out but
there is no pressure.
2nd Common Prob.
Recommended Air Pressure is 80 PSI –
100 PSI.
obstructions or blockage
the top of the Air Motor or the cover of the Air Motor
Air Motor does not
operate. This is a less
common occurrence.
Pump operates, pumps material but
does not shut off.
Air Motor on Pump operates but no
material comes out
Air Motor still Operates but no
Material comes out.
Pump, hoses and valves are
Connected and pump does not
Pump when I pull the trigger on
The control valve
Warning: (Again!!!)
QUESTION??? YES!!! NO!!!
Does the pump Air Motor operate
when it is removed from the Grease?
Does the Air Motor have water in the
Casing?
Water Continued: Oil Solution Do not use Marvel Mystery Oil or
Does the Air Motor Operate Now? Yes: check to see it will pump
Step #1: Water in the Air Motor
Step #2: Downtube Blockage.
Reason: Pump is not reaching stall pressure.
1: Check that all hoses, lubricant lines and controls valves are
connected and the connections are tight. There should be no leaks.
2: Check that the hoses are SAE approved Grease Hoses and made for
pumping High Pressure Grease. Don’t use Oil Hose or Garden Hose for pumping High Pressure Grease.
3: Go to Step #2; Downtube Blockage.
4: If that does not solve the problem go to Step #4
1: Check the follower plate.
Make sure there are no air pockets in the grease underneath the follower plate.
Push down lightly on the follower plate to ensure a positive prime.
2: Check that all hoses and control valves are fully connected
3: Check to see that there are no blockages in the lines, hoses or control valves.
4: Go to Step #2; Downtube Blockage below.
5: If that does not solve the problem go to Step #4 below
Your pump has picked up some foreign debris or materials such as rocks, stones,
dirt, sand, plastic or metal. Follow instructions for Lower Downtube Disassembly
and Cleaning below.
See Trouble Shooting Sequence Below: Question / Answer
Period.
If the Air is connected to the pump, consider the pump to be live. Do not
attempt to work on the pump or the system without disconnecting the Air
Inlet and relieving pressure in the system, both air pressure and lube
pressure. Make sure there are no live air pockets in the air motor and all air
has been bled from the Air Motor.
Yes: Then put the pump back in the
grease. Remove the hose from the
pump
If water is in the Air Motor Casing
(41245), The slide valve 45605
could be sticking because it is
corroded or rusted. Sometimes
injecting 4-8oz of SAE 30 Motor Oil
into the air Inlet will lubricate the air
motor parts enough to get the air
motor operating. This is a
temporary fix.
any synthetic oil as this will swell
the Buna N Packings of the pump
and render the pump useless.
grease. In the future keep the air
motor well oiled. You need to
check the water and air quality in
your air line. Insert pump into
grease and see below Step 5.Yes: Remove Air Motor Cover
41202 and inspect the inside of the
Air Motor Casing. There should be
NLGI#1 grease packed into the air
motor casing. If there is no grease
in the air motor casing, the grease
No: Then check Air Inlet for Pressure, and
check Air Motor for Leaks at the Air Nipple,
Muffler or Seals. If there are no air leaks
and Air is fully engaged at least 80 psi, take
the rubber part of a mallet and slightly tap
the front cover of the Air Motor (41202) with
the rubber part only.
Sometimes and very rarely the Toggle Valve
sticks and needs to be prodded off of the
neutral position.
No: This could be due to 2 problems; We
will deal with each independently.
See Step #1 below and then see Step #2.
No: We did not find water in the Air Motor
Casing when we removed the Air Motor
Cover 41202. Go to Step #2 below.
Step #2: It is possible your pump has picked
up some foreign materials or debris such as
Step 3: Did this solve the problem?
Step 4: Pump not holding or
building Pressure:
Step 5: Does it pump grease now
when inserted in the drum?
Does the grease pump through the
hose?
Does the grease pump through the
Control Valve?
Is there Blockage in your Lubricant
Lines, Hoses, Pumps and Control
Valves Common?
is white or the parts are corroded
and rusted you have a moisture
problem in your air line that needs
to be corrected.
Try soaking the Air Motor Casing in
SAE 30 Motor Oil to free up the
moving parts. If this does not solve
the problem the pump needs to be
rebuilt preferably by an Authorized
ATD Service Center.
Yes: Please think of using a
Strainer (ATD5356) See Note on
the Strainer Below.
Yes: The pump holds pressure fine.
Then you solved the problem?!?!
Yes: There is a blockage in the
Hose or the Control Valve.
Remove the Control Valve from the
hose and connect the hose to the
pump. Or Yes, but it does not
seem to hold or build pressure. See
note below on types of foreign
materials.
Yes: Then the blockage is in the
Control Valve. Attach the control
valve to the hose. Remove the
coupler from the Control Valve.
Most likely the blockage is at the
control valve.
Yes: there was blockage in the
coupler of the control valve. Clean
the Coupler out with Mineral Spirits.
Yes: we suggest the use of a foot
valve strainer: ATD5356
rocks, stones, dirt, sand, plastic or metal.
This could block the down tube plunger
11724 from being able to freely move up
and down. Follow instructions for Lower
Down tube Disassembly, Inspection and
Cleaning.
No: If this did not solve the problem with
the pump, then we have covered blockage
in the downtube, corroded or non-function
parts in the air motor, blockage in the hose
and control valve, and air motor air leaks..
This covers approximately 99% of the
problems. Continue to Step #4 if the pump
does not build or hold pressure or continue
onto step #6 for unusual problems.
No: It operates but does not hold or build
pressure in the system or line.
Follow instruction for Lower Downtube
Disassembly, Inspection and Cleaning.
Chances are foreign material is lodged in
the lower downtube. In addition, it is
possible that the packing 35073 needs to be
replaced in the Lower Downtube section.
This is a wear part and not covered by
warranty. Consult your service manual for
the location of the 35073 and instructions for
replacement are in the Downtube
Disassembly instructions.
In some cases, we have seen paper and
bubble gum that get stuck up inside the
plunger bushing 90554ME between the two
check balls, check seats and ball stop. This
part is a precision lapped part and if that is
the case, it will need to be cleaned out. See
note below on types of foreign materials.
No: See Step # 1 followed by Step #2
No: Then the blockage is in the hose.
No: There is a blockage in the main body of
the Control Valve. Control Valve needs to
be disassembled and cleaned.
Step #6: Are there Dents in the Air
Cylinder?
Step #7: Any Synthetic Oil?
Note: Strainer ATD5356
Has your Pump been Outside in the
elements? Has water entered the Air
Motor?
Note: FRL
Note: Hammer Fix!!
Note: Types of
Foreign Materials:
Note: Plastic Liner
Issues
Final Warning on a
Live Pump:
Revision: January 23, 2008
Yes: Look on the outside of the air
cylinder 61041. Are there any
dents. The smallest dent will stop
the operation of the pump. You
need to replace that part and order
a repair kit as well. Or Contact an
Authorized ATD Service Center.
Also see warning note below on the
use of Hammers!
No: There are no dents or cracks on the
outside. Go to step #7:
Has anyone injected marvel mystery oil or any synthetic oil into the air inlet of the
pump? Synthetic Oil will swell the Buna N Packings especially part # 34090. The
Air Motor will not operate and will need to be rebuilt.
To prevent Blockage in the pump, hose, lubricant lines or control valve with
contaminated grease, or to prevent contaminated grease from entering your
bearings, we suggest the use of a Grease Strainer: ATD5356
Yes: there is a possibility that water has accumulated inside the Air Motor. Over
time this can cause damage to the Air Motor. All pumps are packed at the factory
with a water repellent NLGI #1 grease. Over time with water accumulating inside
the Air Motor, the grease can be flushed out.
To ensure the proper operation of your Pneumatic pump, we suggest a Filter, Regulator, Lubricator (FRL) on each Pump OR at the very least a Filter
/Regulator with an automatic dump mechanism on it to purge water out of the air.
Don’t Bang on the pump with a hammer or blunt instrument. The pumps are
rugged and made for professional and industrial use but are made of Aluminum
and if any parts are dented, it will affect the operation of the pump.
Some foreign materials such as adhesives, caulks, anything w/ sugar, bubble gum,
abrasive materials can ruin or severely block part # 90554ME. This is a precisi on
lapped bushing and plunger assembly that can wear excessively when it is
exposed to abrasive materials such as sugar, dirt and sand. If this does occur,
you will probably have to replace part # 90554ME.
If the Grease Drum/Pail has a Plastic Liner and your pump operates but no grease
is delivered, the downtube of the pump could be trying to pick up the plastic liner
and the downtube is blocked:
SOLUTION:
1: You can try reseating the pump by lifting the pump approximately 6-12 inches
above the drum / pail and reseating it on top of the drum / pail.
2: You can try raise the pump up at least 1-2” out of the drum on blocks but might
introduce contamination in the grease with blowing dirt etc…. ; Also you will leave
1-2” of grease in the bottom when you change containers.
3: Install a grease strainer (ATD5356) on the downtube to prevent the liner from
being picked up.
4: In recent years, manufactures have made their liners with a heavy plastic and
this has not been an issue.
If the air is connected to the pump, consider the pump to be live. Do not
attempt to work on the pump or the system without disconnecting the Air
Inlet and relieving pressure in the system, both air pressure and lube
pressure. Make sure there are no live air pockets in the air motor and all air
has been bled from the Air Motor.
Lower Pump Tube Disassembly and Cleaning Instructions
Cleaning: Use Mineral Spirits and a Brush to Thoroughly Clean all Debris out of the Foot Valve 61275
and Extension Tube 61273; Thoroughly inspect all parts for wear or damage; Clean all Parts
Tentative Check List
1: Is the Plunger Rod 11723 bent?
2: Is the Packing 35073 excessively worn?
3: Is the Check Seat 11725 worn or have abrasions or cuts?
4: Is the plunger 11724 bent or broken?
5: 95% of the problems with the pump not pumping material; not holding pressure or not operating have
to do with foreign Material such as Rocks, Stones, Metal, Nuts, Bolts, Plastic, Paper, Gum and other
materials being picked up by the downtube and getting caught in the extension tube or the down
tube. When Changing Lube Containers, Watch where you lay the pump and what the downtube
touches. Anything will stick to the grease on the end of the downtube.
95% of the problems that occur with the pump not
pumping material; not holding pressure or not
operating at all have to do with foreign Material
such as Rocks, Stones, Metal, Nuts, Bolts,
Plastic, Paper and other materials being picked
up by the downtube and lodging themselves in
the extension tube or the down tube.
To avoid this, use a strainer for the downtube, if in a
difficult environment. In rare cases with paper
and bubble gum, the material can work its way
up into the bushing and plunger assembly
(90554) and therefore this part needs to be
disassembled and cleaned as well. If sand or
dirt is a constant problem, you will find that the
bushing and plunger assembly will wear
excessively. These two pieces are lapped and
fitted together as one. Constant Sand or Dirt
passing through the part 90554 Bushing and
Plunger can ruin the tight fit.
Procedure
Fig A. (See Fig. A) Lay pump horizontal in vise and
grip outlet body tightly in vise jaws. Hold
Extension Tube (61273) and unscrew Priming
Tube (61275).
. (See Fig. B) Pull Plunger (11724) straight out
Fig B
until Plunger Rod (11723) is extended as far as
possible out of the Extension Tube (61273). Hold
bushing of Piston (90554) and unscrew Extension
Tube (61273).
Center Extension Tube (61273) between end of
piston bushing and Plunger (11724). Insert any
pointed tool in through hole at Base of Check Seat
11726.
Plunger may unscrew from Plunger Rod
Note:
(11723) or plunger rod may unscrew from Check
Seat (11726). Extension Tube (61273) can be
removed from free end of Plunger Rod (11723).
: (See Fig. C) When you remove the Extension
Fig C
Tube (61273) this exposes the Check Seat
(11725), Priming Check (11721), Check Stop
(11722), Support Bushing (11702) and Plunger
Packing (35073).
Unscrew Priming Check Seat
Note:
(11721) from Check Stop (11722) to remove
Support Bushing (11702) and Plunger
Packing (35073); To do this you will have to
put Check Seat (11721) in a vise and insert a
point tool such as a punch through the holes
in Check Stop (11722) to unthread Check
Stop (11722) from Check Seat (11721).
Plunger Packing (35073) incurs heavy wear and it
is advisable to replace this part if worn.
Perform this only if you need to remove
Bushing and Plunger Assembly;
Otherwise Reassembly Pump Tube
. (See Fig. D) Removing Bushing and
Fig D
Plunger Assembly (90554ME); Hold pump
tube and unscrew bushing of Piston
(90554). Bushing should slide off once
unthreaded from the Pump Tube.
Fig E
. Grip two flats at top of piston plunger
with an end wrench and remove Check
Seat (11726).
Note: Check Ball (66010) may remain in
plunger after Check Seat (11726) is
removed. To remove check ball tilt pump in
vise and gently tap top of plunger at
location of two flats.
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