NOTE: General specifications for each 2018 Arctic
Cat Snowmobile can be accessed from the Arctic Cat
Cat Tracker Dealer Communication System online.
NOTE: Some illustrations and photographs used in
this manual are used for clarity purposes only and are
not designed to depict actual conditions.
This Arctic Cat Service Manual contains service and
maintenance information for certain Model Year 2018
Arctic Cat Snowmobiles (see cover). The manual is
designed to aid service personnel in service-oriented
applications.
This manual is divided into sections. The sections cover
specific snowmobile components or systems and, in
addition to the standard service procedures, includes
assembling, disassembling, and inspecting instructions.
When using this manual as a guide, the technician should
use discretion as to how much disassembly is needed to
correct any given condition.
The service technician should become familiar with the
operation and construction of the components or systems
by carefully studying the complete manual. This will
assist the service technician in becoming more aware of
and efficient with servicing procedures. Such efficiency
not only helps build consumer confidence but also saves
time and labor.
All Arctic Cat publications and snowmobile decals display the words Warning, Caution, and Note to emphasize
important information. The symbol ! WARNING
identifies personal safety-related information. Be sure to
follow the directive because it deals with the possibility
of severe personal injury or even death. A CAUTION
identifies unsafe practices which may result in snowmobile-related damage. Follow the directive because it deals
with the possibility of damaging part or parts of the
snowmobile. The symbol NOTE: identifies supple-
mentary information worthy of particular attention.
Snowmobile Identification
The Arctic Cat Snowmobile has two important identification numbers. The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
is stamped into the tunnel near the right-side footrest or
on top of the tunnel. The decal also displays pertinent
production information. The Engine Serial Number
(ESN) is stamped into the crankcase of the engine.
These numbers are required to complete warranty claims
properly. No warranty will be allowed by Arctic Cat if
the engine serial number or VIN is removed or mutilated
in any way.
Recommended Gasoline
and Oil
CAUTION
Do not use white gas or gasoline containing methanol.
Only Arctic Cat approved gasoline additives should be
used.
CAUTION
Any oil used in place of the recommended oil may
cause serious damage.
RECOMMENDED GASOLINE
The recommended gasoline to use in these snowmobiles
is 87 octane regular unleaded. In many areas, oxygenates
are added to the gasoline. Oxygenated gasolines containing up to 10% ethanol are acceptable gasolines.
When using ethanol blended gasoline, adding a gasoline
antifreeze is not necessary since ethanol will prevent the
accumulation of moisture in the fuel system.
RECOMMENDED OIL (3000)
The recommended oil to use is Synthetic 0W-40 Oil in all
temperatures and conditions.
At the time of publication, all information, photographs,
and illustrations were technically correct. Some photographs and illustrations used in this manual are used for
clarity purposes only and are not designed to depict
actual conditions. Because Arctic Cat Inc. constantly
refines and improves its products, no retroactive obligation is incurred.
All materials and specifications are subject to change
without notice.
Keep this manual accessible in the shop area for reference.
Product Service and Warranty Department
Arctic Cat Inc.
2
OILCHARTJ
After the engine break-in period, the engine oil and filter
should be changed every 2500-3000 miles and before
prolonged storage.
RECOMMENDED OIL (7000/9000)
The recommended oil to use is Synthetic C-TEC4 Oil
(p/n 6639-529 — gal.). After the engine break-in period,
the engine oil and filter should be changed every 2500
miles or before prolonged storage.
Engine Break-In
Drive Belt Break-In
3000
The Arctic Cat 4-stroke engine (when new or rebuilt)
requires a short break-in period before the engine is subjected to heavy load conditions.
This engine does not require any pre-mixed fuel during
the break-in period.
CAUTION
DO NOT use premixed fuel in the snowmobile gas tank.
Engine damage will occur.
To ensure trouble-free operation, careful adherence to the
following break-in guidelines will be beneficial.
0-200 miles1/2 Throttle (30 mph max)
200-400 miles1/2-3/4 Throttle
400-600 miles
* With occasional full-throttle operation.
1/2-3/4 Throttle
*
To ensure proper engine break-in, Arctic Cat recommends that the engine oil and filter be changed after 500
miles or after one month, whichever comes first. This
service is at the discretion and expense of the snowmobile owner.
7000/9000
The engine (when new or rebuilt) requires a short
break-in period before the engine is subjected to heavy
load conditions.
This engine does not require any pre-mixed fuel during
the break-in period.
There is never a more important period in the life of the
engine than the first 500 km (300 miles).
Since the engine is brand new, do not put an excessive
load on it for the first 500 km (300 miles). The various
parts in the engine wear and polish themselves to the correct operating clearances. During this period, prolonged
full throttle operation or any condition that might result
in engine overheating must be avoided.
Operating your snowmobile for the first time: Start the
engine and let it idle for 15 minutes.
Drive belts require a break-in period of 25 miles. Drive
the snowmobile for 25 miles at 3/4 throttle or less. By
revving the engine up and down (but not exceeding 60
mph), the exposed cord on the side of a new belt will be
worn down. This will allow the drive belt to gain its optimum flexibility and will extend drive belt life.
NOTE: Before starting the snowmobile in extremely
cold temperatures, the drive belt should be removed
and warmed up to room temperature. Once the drive
belt is at room temperature, install the drive belt (see
Drive Belt sub-section in the Drive Train/Track/Brake
Systems section of this manual).
CAUTION
Running the engine with the drive belt removed could
result in serious engine damage and drive clutch failure.
Genuine Parts
When replacement of parts is necessary, use only genuine
Arctic Cat parts. They are precision-made to ensure high
quality and correct fit.
Varying Altitude Operation
Operating a snowmobile at varying altitudes requires
recalibration of drive system components.
Consult the appropriate specification sheet on Cat
Tracker Online.
Following are basic altitude theories for clutching,
engine, suspension, and track.
CLUTCHING
On a normally-aspirated engine as altitude changes,
engine horsepower changes with it. As you go up in altitude, the engine loses horsepower. Because of this, the
continuously variable transmission (CVT) system needs
to be calibrated to compensate for the horsepower loss.
0-160 km (0–100 miles): Avoid prolonged operation
above 6000 RPM.
160-500 km (100–300 miles): Avoid prolonged operation
above 8000 RPM.
500 km (300 miles) and beyond: The snowmobile can
now be operated normally.
NOTE: After 800 km (500 miles) of operation, the
engine oil must be changed and the oil filter replaced.
If any engine trouble should occur during the engine
break-in period, immediately have an Arctic Cat
dealer check the snowmobile.
At altitudes above 5000 ft, the engine loses peak horsepower but will also lose horsepower at engagement
speed. For this reason, calibrating the drive system is
usually needed in order to attain acceptable performance.
Changing drive clutch engagement speed can be done
several ways. Some of the methods will affect other characteristics of CVT operation, so you must be careful what
you change. Drive clutch springs are the most common
way to increase engagement speed; however, by simply
changing the cam arms to a lighter weight from the
heavier sea level cam arm, you will gain some engagement speed.
3
Other more complicated methods exist such as engagement notches and changing the position of the cam arm
center of gravity in relation to the roller. This is called
“tucking the weight” and can be used, but, like the
engagement notch, it can hurt belt life.
The driven clutch will also play a part in CVT tuning for
high altitude operation. A steeper helix (torque bracket)
angle in the driven clutch will mean a quicker up-shift. A
shallower angle will mean a slower up-shift. If the
up-shift is too quick, due to a very steep helix, RPM will
be pulled down under the peak operating RPM of the
engine (where the horsepower is) and performance will
suffer. The engine may even bog. If you have a helix that
is too shallow, the engine may over-rev or have poor
acceleration. Usually, angles shallower than the sea level
calibrations work best. The driven spring will also affect
driven clutch tuning. Tighten the spring, and RPM will
increase. Loosen the spring, and RPM will decrease. The
spring should be used to fine-tune and complement the
helix selection.
Carburetor calibration changes for high altitude operation
will have an effect on the CVT system and how it operates. Understanding the basics of CVT operation is
important in order to make the correct high altitude CVT
calibration changes.
The front arm spring and shock will also affect the ride
and handling when either on a trail or in powder snow. A
strong spring setting on this shock will cause the snowmobile to tend to “dig” more when riding in the powder
snow rather than climbing up on top of the snow. But, it
will work more effectively when riding on a trail. A
softer spring setting will allow the front of the rear suspension to collapse much quicker and change the angle of
the track to the snow. A more gradual angle will tend to
raise the snowmobile up on the snow rather than digging
into it.
Many possible variables and adjustments to the rear suspension exist depending on snow conditions, riding style,
and type of terrain. These adjustments can be made to
individualize the snowmobile to the riding style of the
operator.
As snow cover and riding conditions change, several different adjustments can be made to change the ride and
handling characteristics for operator preference. Located
on the front suspension arm are limiter straps. They limit
the amount of “fallout” the front arm can have. These
straps may be adjusted in or out due to conditions and
riding style. The more the straps are brought up, the more
steering power the operator has due to the amount of ski
pressure.
ENGINE
A normally aspirated engine will generate more horsepower at sea level than it does at higher altitudes. The
reason is that the higher you go, less oxygen is available
for the engine to use during its combustion process. Less
oxygen means it needs less fuel to obtain the correct
air/fuel ratio to operate properly. This is why the fuel
ratio has to be recalibrated. High altitude engines operate
as though they have a lower compression ratio. This,
along with less oxygen and less fuel, means that the
engine generates less horsepower. All of these characteristics will become more evident the higher the altitude.
SUSPENSION
The different riding styles of the individual operator, the
varying snow conditions, and the type of terrain are all
factors that affect the suspension at high altitude. Trail
riding versus powder snow riding versus combination
riding will all require different suspension settings.
The normal setting for front ski suspension is as little
spring pre-load tension as possible for powder snow riding allowing the skis to float across the snow with the
least amount of resistance. Trail riding will require more
spring tension to carry the varying load more effectively.
Many different settings and spring tensions to consider
exist when adjusting for riding style and snow conditions.
The rear suspension has a number of spring settings that
produce different riding characteristics.
Another adjustment that can be made on the rear suspension is the front arm shock spring tension. As trail conditions change, the spring pre-load may be used to decrease
the chance of the front end “bottoming out.” With a
stiffer spring pre-load, the ride of the snowmobile will
improve on the trail but will affect the performance in the
deep powder snow. In deep powder snow, the stiffer
spring pre-load will cause the front-end to “dig” and possibly take longer for it to plane off. Several different-rate
springs are available for different riding styles and terrain
conditions.
On the standard models, the front shock springs are also
individually adjustable for the terrain conditions and
driving style of the operator. The spring adjuster has been
set at the factory so the correct amount of threads are
exposed between the spring adjuster and the shock housing as an initial setting. Additional ski pressure can be
obtained by tightening the spring tension; ski pressure
can be decreased by relaxing spring tension. Springs with
different spring rates are available for operator choice
and snow conditions.
A limit exists as to how far you can pre-load the springs
before “coil bind” takes effect where the wire on the
spring actually runs into itself and causes binding. Equal
adjustments should be maintained on both sides of the
snowmobile. Finally, track tension should be looked at to
make sure that it is within recommended specifications to
affect the efficiency of the snowmobile. On models with
the torque sensing link, the track is actually tightening as
the suspension moves through its range of motion causing the track to sag in the middle and rub on the top part
of the rear suspension arm.
TRACK
Carefully matching the riding requirements to the type of
track will ensure the maximum use of all available engine
power. Lug height and track durometer are the two main
concerns when selecting a track for various riding styles.
4
Tracks exist with lug heights from 1.0” up to 3.0” to
accommodate various snow conditions. Generally, the
deeper the snow, the taller the lug. It must be noted that
the installation of any deep-lug track may reduce top end
speed and promote premature wear strip wear in marginal
snow conditions.
Durometer is a measurement of how hard a rubber is. The
lugs on most tracks range between 60 and 85 durometer.
On the durometer scale, the higher the number, the harder
the lugs. For riding in deep powder snow, a softer durometer track works best. The softer rubber allows the track
to “give” a little and pack the snow creating lift rather
than digging its way straight down. When hill-climbing,
the harder lug of an 80 durometer track works the best
due to penetrating the hard snow creating more bite.
Some tracks come with a dual durometer rating, such as a
track with a 80/60 durometer rating. The lugs on this
track are 80% 80 durometer rubber, and the top 20% is
made of the softer 60 durometer rubber. This track is
designed to be a good all-around track for riding mostly
in deep powder snow but can climb the occasional hard
snow hill.
9. Disconnect the battery cables making sure to disconnect the negative cable first; then clean the battery
posts and cables.
CAUTION
Sealed batteries require charging if left for extended
non-start periods. Arctic Cat recommends trickle
charging once a month. Follow the manufacturer’s
instructions and cautions.
10. If possible, store the snowmobile indoors. Raise the
track off the floor by blocking up the back end making sure the snowmobile is secure. Loosen the track
adjusting bolts to reduce track tension. Cover the
snowmobile with a machine cover or a heavy, ventilated tarpaulin to protect it from dirt and dust.
11. If the snowmobile must be stored outdoors, position
the snowmobile out of direct sunlight; then block the
entire snowmobile off the ground making sure the
snowmobile is secure. Loosen the track adjusting
bolts to reduce track tension. Cover with a machine
cover or a heavy, ventilated tarpaulin to protect it
from dirt, dust, and rain.
Preparation for Storage
Prior to storing the snowmobile, it must be properly serviced to prevent corrosion and component deterioration.
1. Clean the seat cushion with a damp cloth and Arctic
Cat Vinyl Protectant.
2. Clean the snowmobile thoroughly by hosing dirt, oil,
grass, and other foreign matter from the skid frame,
tunnel, hood, and belly pan. Allow the snowmobile
to dry thoroughly. DO NOT get water into any part
of the engine.
3. Fill the gas tank to its rated capacity; then add Arctic
Cat Fuel Stabilizer to the gas tank following directions on the container for the stabilizer/gasoline
ratio. Tighten the gas tank cap securely.
4. With the snowmobile level, check the lubricant level
in the chain case. If low, add chain lube through the
fill plug hole.
5. Remove the drive belt from the drive clutch/driven
clutch. Lay the belt on a flat surface or slide it into a
cardboard sleeve to prevent warping or distortion
during storage; then clean and inspect the drive
clutch and driven clutch.
6. Apply light oil to the upper steering post bushings
and to the shafts of the shock absorbers; then lubricate the rear suspension with a low-temperature
grease.
7. Tighten all nuts, bolts, and cap screws making sure
all calibrated nuts, bolts, and cap screws are tightened to specifications. Make sure all rivets holding
the components together are tight. Replace all loose
rivets.
8. Clean and polish the hood, console, and chassis with
Cat Cleaner. DO NOT USE SOLVENTS. THE PROPELLENT WILL DAMAGE THE FINISH.
CAUTION
Avoid storing in direct sunlight and using a plastic
cover as moisture may collect on the snowmobile causing corrosion.
Preparation After Storage
Taking the snowmobile out of storage and correctly preparing it for another season will ensure many miles and
hours of trouble-free snowmobiling. Arctic Cat recommends the following procedure:
1. Clean the snowmobile thoroughly. Polish the exterior
of the snowmobile.
2. Clean the engine. Remove the cloth from the exhaust
system. Check exhaust system and air silencer for
obstructions.
3. Inspect all control wires and cables for signs of wear
or fraying. Replace if necessary. Use cable ties or
tape to route wires and cables away from hot or rotating parts.
4. Inspect the drive belt for cracks and tears. Check belt
specifications. Replace if damaged or worn. Install
the drive belt (see the Drive Train/Track/Brake Systems section).
NOTE: If the old belt is worn but in reasonable con-
dition, retain it with the snowmobile as a spare in case
of emergency.
5. Adjust the throttle cable. Inspect all fuel hoses and
oil hoses for deterioration or cracks; replace if necessary. Make sure all connections are tight.
6. Tighten all nuts, bolts, and cap screws making sure
all calibrated nuts, bolts, and cap screws are tightened to specifications.
7. If not done during preparation for storage, lubricate
the rear suspension with a low-temperature grease.
5
8. Check the coolant level and all coolant hoses and
connections for deterioration or cracks. Add properly
mixed coolant as necessary.
9. Charge the battery; then connect the battery cables
making sure to connect the positive cable first. Test
the electric start system.
10. Inspect the entire brake system, all controls, headlight, taillight, brake light, ski wear bars, and headlight aim; adjust or replace as necessary.
11. Adjust the track to the proper tension and alignment.
After Break-In
Checkup/Checklist
Certain areas require adjustment after the break-in period
in order to obtain peak performance. These areas are the
following.
DRIVE BELT DEFLECTION — Drive belt deflection
is very important to the snowmobile. Even if it is checked
and is correct when the snowmobile is set up, it does
change (more so during the break-in period). This is
because the rubber engine mounts and the rubber snubber
on the torque link will all take a “set” during the first 100
miles allowing the distance between the drive clutch and
driven clutch to shorten. When this happens, the snowmobile will appear to have a too long drive belt. To add
to this, the drive belt itself wears and stretches somewhat
leading to a low-end performance problem and, if not
corrected, causes premature drive belt wear.
After the break-in period, drive belt deflection should be
checked according to the instructions given in the Drive
Train/Track/Brake Systems section of this manual.
DRIVE CLUTCH/DRIVEN CLUTCH
ALIGNMENT — The alignment between the drive
clutch and driven clutch are set at the factory. Normally,
no adjustment is necessary; however, if premature drive
belt wear or poor performance is experienced, the drive
clutch/driven clutch alignment must be checked.
TRACK TENSION AND ALIGNMENT — A certain
amount of stretch occurs on all tracks during the first 500
miles. The track must be inspected/adjusted after the first
50 to 100 miles to the specifications given in the Track
Specifications sub-section of this section and periodically
thereafter. If these adjustments aren’t performed, the
track may “derail” which leads to track and slide rail
damage.
Along with these major areas, other areas should be
checked and adjusted.
Below is a list of items to check after the break-in period.
The recommended mileage for this inspection is between
100 and 300 miles.
Check drive belt deflection - drive clutch/driven
Check steering hardware for tightness
Check skid frame and A-arm mounting hardware
for tightness
Check brake lever travel and adjustment
Grease all lubrication points
6
Engine Specifications
3000
ITEM
Displacement700 cc
Compression Ratio10.5:1
Bore x Stroke76.9 x 75.3 mm (3.03 × 2.96”)
Cooling SystemLiquid
Spark Plug (NGK)CR8EB
Spark Plug Gap0.6-0.8 mm (0.023-0.031 in.)
Valve Face Diameter(Intake)
Valve Guide Inside Diameter (max)4.532 mm
Valve Head Thickness (min)2.3 mm
Valve Seat Angle45° +15’/+30’
Valve Spring Free Length (min)38.7 mm
Valve Spring Tension @ 31.5 mm19.0 kg (42 lb)
Cam Lobe Height (min)36.5 mm
Camshaft Journal Oil Clearance (max)0.07 mm
Camshaft Journal Holder (Right/Center)
Diameter (Left)
Camshaft Runout (max)0.05 mm
Cylinder Head/Cover Distortion (max)0.05 mm
Piston/Cylinder Clearance0.14 mm
Cylinder Bore (max)76.965 mm
Piston Diameter (10 mm from skirt end) 76.825 mm
Piston Ring Free End Gap (min) (1st/2nd) 12.5 mm
Cylinder Trueness (max)0.05 mm
Piston Ring End Gap Installed (1st/2nd)
(max)(Oil)
Piston Ring to Groove Clearance (max) 0.1 mm
Piston Ring Groove Width(1st/2nd)
Piston Ring Thickness (1st/2nd) 1.170-1.195 mm
Piston Pin Bore (max)18.018 mm
Piston Pin Outside Diameter (min)17.984 mm
Connecting Rod: Small End Bore (max) 18.044 mm
Crankshaft Runout (max)0.03 mm
(Exhaust)
7000
ITEM
Engine Model Number8KH
Displacement 1049 cc
Compression Ratio11:1
Bore x Stroke82.04 x 66.29 mm (3.23 × 2.61”)
Cooling SystemLiquid
Spark Plug (NGK)CR9E
Spark Plug Gap0.71-0.79 mm (0.028-0.031”)
Piston Skirt/Cylinder Clearance 0.036-0.061 mm
Piston Pin Diameter 18.991-19.000 mm
Piston Pin Bore Diameter 19.004-19.015 mm
Piston Pin to Piston Pin Bore Clearance 0.004-0.024 mm
Connecting Rod: Small End Diameter 19.005-19.027 mm
Crankshaft Pin/Connecting Rod: Big
End Clearance
Connecting Rod: Big End Diameter41.000-41.018 mm
31.6 mm
27.9 mm
0.16 mm
0.22 mm
0.08 mm
0.10 mm
21.94-22.04 mm
17.44-17.48 mm
21.96-21.98 mm
17.48-17.53 mm
0.65 mm
0.85 mm
1.202-1.204 mm
(Oil)
2.501-2.503 mm
(0.0014-0.0024”)
(0.7477-0.7480”)
(0.7482-0.7486”)
(0.0002-0.0009”)
(0.7482-0.7491”)
0.033-0.050 mm
(0.0013-0.0020”)
(1.6142-1.6149”)
ITEM
Piston Ring End Gap(Top)
(2nd)
(Oil)
Piston Ring/(1st /Top)
Groove Clearance
Piston Diameter
(8 mm from bottom edge)
Cam Lobe Height (Intake)
Cam Lobe Width (Intake/Exhaust)24.85 mm (0.9783”)
Camshaft Journal Diameter24.46-24.47 mm
Camshaft Journal Clearance0.028-0.062 mm
Crank Pin Diameter37.976-38.000 mm
Crankshaft Runout (max)0.3 mm (0.012”)
Crankshaft Main Bearing Clearance0.027-0.045 mm
Crankshaft/Rod Bearing Clearance0.032-0.050 mm
Valve Stem Diameter (Intake)
Valve Guide Inside Diameter (Intake)
Valve Guide/Stem Clearance (Intake)
(Exhaust)
(Exhaust)
(Exhaust)
(Exhaust)
0.35-0.45 mm (0.014-0.018”)
0.70-0.80 mm (0.028-0.031”)
0.10-0.35 mm (0.004-0.014”)
0.030-0.070 mm
(0.0012-0.0028”)
(2nd)
0.020-0.060 mm
(0.0008-0.0024”)
(Oil)
0.040-0.110 mm
(0.0016-0.0043”)
81.95-81.97 mm
(3.2264-3.2270”)
34.50 mm (1.3583”)
34.00 mm (1.3356”)
(0.9630-0.9635”)
(0.0011-0.0024”)
(1.4951-1.4961”)
(0.0011-0.0018”)
(0.0013-0.0020”)
4.475-4.490 mm
(0.1762-0.1677”)
4.460-4.475 mm
(0.1756-0.1762”)
4.500-4.512 mm
(0.1772-0.1776”)
4.500-4.512 mm
(0.1772-0.1776”)
0.010-0.037 mm
(0.0004-0.0015”)
0.025-0.052 mm
(0.0010-0.0020”)
7
9000
ITEM
Engine Model Number8KJ
Displacement 998 cc
Compression Ratio9.0:1
Bore x Stroke80.0 x 66.2 mm (3.15 × 2.61”)
Cooling SystemLiquid
Spark Plug (NGK)CR8E
Spark Plug Gap0.71-0.79 mm (0.028-0.031”)
Piston Skirt/Cylinder Clearance 0.036-0.061 mm (0.0014-0.0024”)
Piston Pin Diameter 20.990-20.995 mm
Piston Pin Bore Diameter 21.004-21.015 mm
Piston Pin to Piston Pin Bore Clearance 0.009-0.025 mm (0.0003-0.0009”)
Connecting Rod: Small End Diameter21.005-21.027 mm
Crankshaft Pin/Connecting Rod: Big End
Clearance
Connecting Rod: Big End Diameter41.000-41.018 mm
Piston Ring End Gap(Top)
(2nd)
(Oil)
Piston Ring/(1st/Top)
Groove Clearance(2nd)
Piston Diameter
(10 mm from bottom edge)
Cam Lobe Height (Intake)
(Exhaust)
Cam Lobe Width (Intake/Exhaust) 24.950-25.050 mm
Camshaft Journal Diameter24.46-24.47 mm (0.9630-0.9635”)
Camshaft Journal Clearance0.028-0.062 mm (0.0011-0.0024”)
Crank Pin Diameter37.976-38.000 mm
Crankshaft Runout (max)0.3 mm (0.012”)
Crankshaft Main Bearing Clearance0.027-0.045 mm (0.0011-0.0018”)
Crankshaft/Rod Bearing Clearance0.030-0.048 mm (0.0012-0.0019”)
Valve Clearance
Valve Stem Diameter (Intake)
Valve Guide Inside Diameter (Intake)
Valve Guide/Stem Clearance (Intake)
Valve Face Width (Intake/Exhaust) 0.90-1.10 mm (0.035-0.043”)
Intake Open (BTDC)35.0 degrees
Intake Closed (ABDC)45.0 degrees
Exhaust Open (BBDC)45.0 degrees
Exhaust Closed (ATDC)35.0 degrees
Valve Overlap70.0 degrees
— Cold (Intake)
(Exhaust)
(Exhaust)
(Exhaust)
(Exhaust)
VALVE TIMING (below)
(0.8264-0.8266”)
(0.8269-0.8274”)
(0.8269-0.8278”)
0.030-0.048 mm (0.0012-0.0019”)
(1.6142-1.6149”)
0.35-0.45 mm (0.014-0.018”)
0.75-0.85 mm (0.030-0.033”)
0.10-0.35 mm (0.004-0.014”)
0.030-0.065 mm (0.0012-0.0026”)
0.020-0.055 mm (0.0008-0.0022”)
(Oil)
0.040-0.140 mm (0.0016-0.0055”)
79.95-79.96 mm (3.1476-3.1480”)
33.750-33.850 mm
(1.3287-1.3327”)
33.750-33.850 mm
(1.3287-1.3327”)
(0.9823-0.9862”)
(1.4951-1.4961”)
0.15-0.22 mm (0.0059-0.0087”)
0.21-0.25 mm (0.0083-0.098”)
4.475-4.490 mm (0.1762-0.1677”)
4.460-4.475 mm (0.1756-0.1762”)
4.500-4.512 mm (0.1772-0.1776”)
4.500-4.512 mm (0.1772-0.1776”)
0.010-0.037 mm (0.0004-0.0015”)
0.025-0.052 mm (0.0010-0.0020”)
8
Electrical Specifications
ComponentTest Value + Test Connections -
3000 (Normally Closed Ignition)
Spark Plug Cap5000 ohms
Ignition Coil Resistance (primary)Less than 1 ohm
Ignition Coil Primary VoltageBattery Voltage
Stator Coil (crankshaft position sensor)
Resistance(AC generator)
Crankshaft Position Sensor 1.5 AC Volts or more
AC Generator Output (no load)65 AC volts @ 4000 RPM
Ignition Timing10° BTDC @ 1500 RPM
Ignition SwitchLess than 1 ohm (key in ON position)terminalterminal
Magneto Coil (3 tests)*0.15-0.23 ohmwhitewhite
Primary Ignition Coil*1.19-1.61 ohms
Secondary Ignition Coil*8.5k-11.5k ohms
Crankshaft Position Sensor336-504 ohmsblue/whitegreen/white
Voltage Regulator/Rectifier*12-14.5 DC Voltsterminalterminal
Magneto Coil (no load)36-44 AC Voltswhitewhite
Ignition SwitchLess than 1 ohm (key in ON position)terminalterminal
* Harness plugged in
100-150 ohms
Less than 1 ohm
7000/9000 (Normally Closed Ignition)
NOTE: Lighting coil output is unregulated voltage.
Most voltages generated by the ignition system are sufficient to interrupt pacemakers! All technicians, especially those using pacemakers, must avoid contact with
all electrical connections.
A list of Drive System components that are available
through the Arctic Cat Service Parts Department can be
found in the POGA Reference Guide. This information
will be useful when doing any fine-tuning on the drive
system.
Below is a list of IFP shock absorbers used on the front
and rear suspensions of Arctic Cat snowmobiles. If
replacing a shock absorber, always select a shock
absorber with the same length, both collapsed and
extended.
Wear StripRail50 in.-lb
End CapRail80 in.-lb
Mounting BlockRail12
Rear Wheel AxleRail34
Rear ArmRail20
Idler ArmRear Arm40
Front ShockRail52**
Rear ShockFront Arm/Idler Arm24
Rail SupportRail20
Front ShockFront Arm40
Limiter StrapRail Support72 in.-lb
Rear Tri Hub WheelRear Tri Hub Wheel50 in.-lb
Rear Shock Link Front Arm/Idler Arm40
Front ArmRail52**
Skid FrameTunnel45**
ZR/XF 129/137”
Wear StripRail50 in.-lb
End CapRail80 in.-lb
Mounting BlockRail12
Rear ArmRail45
Rear ArmIdler Arm55
Spring SlideRail20
Fron t A rmRail52
Coupler Block AxleRail40
Limiter StrapRail Support72 in.-lb
Rear Tri Hub WheelRear Tri Hub Wheel50 in.-lb
Rear Wheel AxleRail34
Skid FrameTunnel45**
Front ShockRail50**
Rail SupportRail20
Limiter StrapFront Arm72 in.-lb
* w/Green Loctite #609
** w/Blue Loctite #243
13
Steering and Body
3000/7000
This section has been organized into sub-sections for servicing steering and body components; however, some
components may vary from model to model. The technician should use discretion and sound judgment when
removing and installing components.
NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,
cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is necessary.
SPECIAL TOOLS
A special tool must be available to the technician when
servicing the steering and body systems.
NOTE: When indicated for use, each special tool
will be identified by its specific name, as shown in the
chart below, and capitalized.
To remove the access panel and hood on 9000 models,
use steps 4-5:
4. Rotate the two quarter turns to the vertical position;
then pull the top of the side panel out and up and off
the skid plate.
5. Disconnect the hood harness on the left-side of the
hood; then loosen the two quarter turns securing the
front of the hood. Pull the hood forward and remove
the hood.
Descriptionp/n
Handlebar Stand5639-152
Steering Post Stand5639-946
NOTE: Special tools are available from the Arctic
Cat Service Parts Department.
Steering Post
REMOVING
To remove the access panel and hood on 3000 and 7000
models, use steps 1-3:
1. Remove the hairpin clip from the pin located at the
front of the access panel. Move the panel up and off
the pin; then swing the panel all the way out and
unhinge the panel from the lower console.
2. Remove all six torx-head screws securing the hood.
0750-565A
6. Remove the push rivets securing the right-side steering boot to the chassis. This allows access to the two
nuts securing the bottom of the steering post.
SNO-763
7. Remove the nut (A) securing the bottom of the existing steering post to the steering stop bracket; then
remove the nut (B) securing the steering tie rod
assembly to the steering post. Discard both nuts.
0747-529
14
3. Locate the hood harness connector (located under the
center vent between the intake vents) and unplug the
connector; then move the hood slightly forward and
remove the hood.
SNO-2221A
8. Remove the cap screws and handlebar caps securing
the handlebar to the top of the handlebar riser; then
remove the two torx-head screws and nuts securing
the top of steering post to the chassis. Account for
both steering post blocks and retaining plate.
SNO-357
9. Carefully remove the steering post from the snowmobile.
INSTALLING
1. Install steering post into position and secure to the
steering stop bracket with a new M10 nut. Be sure to
align the steering post ball joint alignment tab
with the steering stop bracket. Tighten to 43 ft-lb.
SNO-2218
2. Secure the tie rod assembly to the steering post using
a new M10 nut. Be sure to align the tie rod balljoint alignment tab with the steering post. Tighten
to 35 ft-lb.
SNO-763
4. Secure the top of the steering post to the steering
support using the existing retaining plate and nuts.
Tighten to 96 in.-lb.
5. Install the expansion chamber using the existing
springs; then connect the exhaust temperature sensor
to the main harness.
6. Position the hood onto the snowmobile and connect
the hood harness connector.
7. Secure the hood; then install the access panels.
Ski (ZR/XF/Pantera)
REMOVING
1. Elevate the front of the snowmobile and secure on a
support stand.
2. Remove and discard the cotter pin; then remove the
nut and cap screw securing the ski to the spindle.
NOTE: Note the orientation of the damper for
installation purposes.
3. Remove the ski. Account for the rubber damper and
washers.
SNO-2219
3. Secure the right-side steering boot to the chassis
using the existing push rivets.
INSPECTING
1. Inspect the ski for cracks or deterioration.
2. Inspect the ski for abnormal bends or cracks.
3. Inspect the wear bar for wear.
4. Inspect all hardware and the spindle bushings for
wear and damage.
5. Inspect the rubber damper for damage or wear.
INSTALLING
1. Slide a washer onto the cap screw used to secure the
ski; then apply low-temperature grease to the shaft
portion of the cap screw and spindle axle.
2. Install the spindle axle into the spindle; then position
the ski damper into the bottom of the ski making sure
the damper is properly positioned for the desired ski
stance.
15
0746-796
INSPECTING
1. Inspect the ski for cracks or deterioration.
2. Inspect the ski for abnormal bends or cracks.
3. Inspect the wear bar for wear.
4. Inspect all hardware and the spindle bushings for
wear and damage.
5. Inspect the rubber damper for damage or wear.
INSTALLING
NOTE: Before installing the skis, make sure the car-
bide of the split wear bar will be installed toward the
inside of the ski when installed on the snowmobile.
1. Slide a washer onto the ski cap screw; then apply
low-temperature grease to the cap screw shaft and
spindle axle.
0746-797
NOTE: The ski damper must be positioned in the
ski so it is directly under the spindle.
3. With the cap screw hole of the ski centered with the
spindle axle, slide the cap screw with washer through
the outside of the ski and spindle assemblies.
NOTE: Local laws and/or regulations regarding
maximum width of the ski stance may be applicable.
Always comply with the maximum width laws and/or
regulations when adjusting ski stance.
NOTE: Install the cap screw so the lock nut will be
located to the inside of the ski and the cotter pin slot
in the cap screw will be horizontal with the ski.
4. Install the remaining washer and lock nut; then
tighten the lock nut to 35 ft-lb.
NOTE: Ensure that the cotter pin slot in the cap
screw is still horizontal with the ski (see illustration);
then proceed to step 5.
5. Install a new cotter pin from the back side of the ski
cap screw and spread the pin.
Ski (Norseman)
REMOVING
1. Elevate the front of the snowmobile and secure on a
support stand.
2. Remove and discard the cotter pin; then remove the
nut and cap screw securing the ski to the spindle.
3. Remove the ski. Account for the rubber damper and
washers.
0748-981
2. Install the spindle axle into the spindle; then position
the ski damper into the ski grooves making sure the
grooved side of the damper is installed rearward.
3. Install the spacers and washers onto the spindle axle
as follows:
Standard ski stance (one on each side of the spindle)
Minimum ski stance (both on the inside of the spindle)
Maximum ski stance (both on the outside of the spindle)
4. With the cap screw hole of the ski centered with the
spindle axle, slide the cap screw with washer through
the outside of the ski.
NOTE: Local laws and/or regulations as to maxi-
mum width of the ski stance may be applicable.
Always comply with the maximum width laws and/or
regulations when adjusting ski stance.
NOTE: Install the cap screw so the lock nut will be
located to the inside of the ski and the cotter pin slot
in the cap screw will be horizontal with the ski.
5. Install the remaining washers and lock nut; then
tighten the lock nut to 35 ft-lb. Ensure the cotter pin
slot in the cap screw is still horizontal with the ski.
6. Install the cotter pin from the back side of the ski cap
screw and spread the pin. Repeat for opposite ski.
16
Ski (XF HC/M)
Ski Wear Bar
REMOVING
1. Elevate the front of the snowmobile and secure on a
support stand.
2. Remove and discard the cotter pin; then remove the
nut and cap screw securing the ski to the spindle.
NOTE: Note the orientation of the damper for
installation purposes.
3. Remove the ski. Account for the rubber damper,
axle, spacers and washers.
INSPECTING
1. Inspect the ski for cracks or deterioration.
2. Inspect the ski for abnormal bends or cracks.
3. Inspect the wear bar for wear.
4. Inspect all hardware and the spindle bushings for
wear and damage.
5. Inspect the rubber damper for damage or wear.
INSTALLING
1. Slide a washer onto the cap screw used to secure the
ski; then apply low-temperature grease to the shaft
portion of the cap screw and spindle axle.
The ski wear bar is a replaceable bar attached to the
underside of the ski. If the snowmobile is operated primarily in deep snow, ski wear bar wear will be minimal;
however, if the snowmobile is operated on terrain where
the snow cover is minimal, the ski wear bar will wear
faster. Arctic Cat recommends that the ski wear bars be
replaced if worn to 1/2 of original diameter.
REMOVING
1. Raise the front of the snowmobile and secure with a
suitable stand.
2. Remove the lock nuts securing the wear bar to the
ski; then remove the wear bar.
INSTALLING
1. Install the wear bar into the ski making sure it is fully
seated using a rubber mallet.
2. Secure the wear bar with lock nuts. Tighten to 96
in.-lb.
Spindle
(ZR/XF/Pantera/Norseman)
2. Install the spindle axle and spacers into the spindle;
then position the ski damper into the bottom of the
ski making sure the damper is properly positioned
for the desired ski stance.
0748-903
NOTE: The ski damper must be positioned in the
ski so it is directly under the spindle.
3. With the cap screw hole of the ski centered with the
spindle axle, slide the cap screw with washer through
the outside of the ski and spindle assemblies.
NOTE: Install the cap screw so the lock nut will be
located to the inside of the ski and the cotter pin slot
in the cap screw will be horizontal with the ski.
4. Install the remaining washer and lock nut; then
tighten the lock nut to 35 ft-lb.
5. Install a new cotter pin from the back side of the ski
cap screw and spread the pin.
0747-904
REMOVING
1. Position the front of the snowmobile on a safety
stand; then remove the ski.
2. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the
shock absorber to the spindle.
3. Remove the lock nut securing the tie rod to the spindle arm. Account for the washer on the top side.
4. Remove the two lock nuts securing the spindle to the
upper and lower A-arms; then using a rubber mallet,
remove the arms from the spindle.
5. Remove the spindle.
INSPECTING
1. Inspect the spindle for excessive wear, cracks, bends,
or imperfections.
2. Inspect the A-arm bushings and axle area for wear.
17
3. Inspect the ski spindle axle and bearings for wear,
damage, or loose fit. Replace the bearings as a set.
3. Inspect the ski spindle axle and bearings for wear,
damage, or loose fit. Replace the bearings as a set.
NOTE: Replacing the ski bolt bushings is difficult.
The existing bushings will be damaged during
removal. Be careful, however, not to damage the spindle when removing the bushings. Press the new bushings into the spindle.
INSTALLING
1. Place the shock absorber into position on the spindle.
Secure with the cap screw and lock nut. Tighten to
32 ft-lb.
2. Install the upper and lower A-arms into the spindle;
then remove the snowmobile from the support stand.
Secure with new lock nuts. Tighten to 45 ft-lb.
NOTE: The weight of the snowmobile will allow the
ball joints to seat into the spindle before tightening
the nuts.
3. Place the tie rod with washer into position on the
spindle arm. Secure with a new lock nut. Tighten to
32 ft-lb.
4. Install the ski.
5. Turn the handlebar fully to the right and then to the
left to verify the steering moves freely.
Spindle (XF HC/M)
NOTE: Replacing the ski bolt bushings is difficult.
The existing bushings will be damaged during
removal. Be careful, however, not to damage the spindle when removing the bushings. Press the new bushings into the spindle.
INSTALLING
1. Install the lower A-arm into the spindle and loosely
secure using a new lock nut.
2. Secure the upper A-arm ball joint to the spindle
using the existing machine screw and tri-nut. Tighten
the machine screw to 23 ft-lb.
3. Loosely install a new lock nut to secure the lower
A-arm to the spindle; then remove the snowmobile
from the support stand. Tighten to 45 ft-lb.
NOTE: The weight of the snowmobile will allow the
ball joint to seat into the spindle before tightening the
nut.
4. Place the tie rod with washer into position on the
spindle arm. Secure with a new lock nut. Tighten to
32 ft-lb.
5. Install the ski.
6. Turn the handlebar fully to the right and then to the
left to verify the steering moves freely.
0749-480
REMOVING
1. Position the front of the snowmobile on a safety
stand; then remove the ski.
2. Remove the lock nut securing the tie rod to the spindle arm. Account for the washer on the top side.
3. Remove the machine screw and tri-nut securing the
upper A-arm ball joint to the spindle.
4. Remove two lock nuts securing the spindle to the
lower A-arm; then using a rubber mallet, remove the
lower arm from the spindle.
INSPECTING
1. Inspect the spindle for excessive wear, cracks, bends,
or imperfections.
Steering Tie Rod
NOTE: To access the steering arm, the steering tie
rods must be removed.
REMOVING
1. Remove both machine screws and nyloc nuts securing the steering tie rod ends to the steering arm. Discard both nuts.
SNO-349
2. Remove the nyloc nuts securing the steering tie rod
ends to the spindle arms. Account for the washers
and discard both nuts.
2. Inspect the A-arm bushings and axle area for wear.
18
SNO-353
3. Slide the steering tie rod out of the steering boot and
out of the snowmobile.
4. Remove the screw and lock nut securing the steering
tie rod end to the steering arm. Discard the nut.
SNO-350
5. Remove the lock nut securing the steering tie rod to
the steering post. Discard the nut.
SNO-225A
INSPECTING
1. Inspect the ball joints for damaged threads or wear.
2. Inspect the tie rod for damage, unusual bends, or
wear.
INSTALLING
1. Secure steering arm into position and secure using
the existing cap screw, flat washers, and nut. Tighten
to 96 in.-lb.
SNO-225A
2. Place the steering tie rod into position on the steering
post. Secure with a new nyloc nut. Tighten to 35
ft-lb.
SNO-351
NOTE: At this point if the technician’s objective is
to remove the steering arm, the reinforcement
bracket will need to be removed by drilling out the
appropriate rivets.
6. Remove all torx-head screws securing the front skid
plate to the chassis; then remove the cap screw and
nut securing the steering arm to the chassis. Account
for two washers and two bushings.
SNO-351
NOTE: Make sure the tie rod tab is fully seated into
the steering post and threads of the ball joint are
above the nut when tightened correctly.
3. Place the tie rod end into position on the steering tie
rod bracket. Secure with a new nyloc nut. Tighten to
20 ft-lb.
19
SNO-350
4. Slide the steering tie rod through the steering boot
and into the snowmobile; then place the steering tie
rod into the spindle arm with the washer. Secure
with a new nyloc nut. Tighten to 32 ft-lb.
2. Turn the handlebar to the straight-ahead position.
Visually inspect the handlebar for being centered and
in the straight-ahead position.
3. With the handlebar in the straight-ahead position,
secure the handlebar to prevent the alignment from
becoming disturbed during the remainder of the
alignment procedure.
NOTE: Track tension and alignment must be prop-
erly adjusted prior to placing the straightedge against
the outside edge of the track.
4. Place a long straightedge against the outside edge of
the track so it lies near the inside edge of the left-side
ski.
NOTE: The straightedge should be long enough to
extend from the back of the track to the front of the
ski.
5. Measure the distance from the straightedge to the
left-side ski wear bar bolts in two places: approximately 7-8 in. in front of the spindle and 7-8 in.
behind the spindle. Record the measurements taken
for the left side.
SNO-353
5. Secure the steering tie rod to the steering tie rod
bracket with the screw and new nyloc nut. Tighten to
20 ft-lb.
SNO-349
Ski Alignment
CHECKING
NOTE: Track tension and alignment must be prop-
erly adjusted prior to checking or adjusting ski alignment. Ski alignment must be performed on a flat,
level surface. Ski toe-out must fall within the range of
1/16-1/4 in.
729-887A
0734-408
6. Place the straightedge against the outside edge of the
track so it lies near the inside edge of the right-side
ski.
7. Measure the distance from the straightedge to the
right-side ski wear bar bolts in two places: 7-8 in. in
front of the spindle and 7-8 in. behind the spindle.
Record the measurements taken for the right side.
1. Raise the front end of snowmobile just high enough
to keep the skis from contacting the floor.
20
! WARNING
The measurement from the front and rear wear bar bolts
to the straightedge can be equal (ski parallel to the track),
but the front measurement must never be less (ski
toed-in) or poor handling will be experienced. The front
wear bar bolt measurement to the straightedge must not
exceed the measurement from the rear wear bar bolt to
the straightedge (ski toed-out) by more than 5/32 in.
! WARNING
The measurement taken in front of the spindle must
never be less than the measurement taken behind the
spindle or poor handling will be experienced. Neglecting to lock the tie rod by tightening the jam nuts may
cause loss of snowmobile control and possible personal injury.
8. If ski alignment is not as specified, adjust the alignment of the ski(s) not parallel to the straightedge.
ADJUSTING
NOTE: The following procedure can be used to
adjust the alignment of either ski.
NOTE: The rivets securing the steering boots will have
to be removed in order to adjust the inner tie rod ends.
1. Secure the steering tie rod in the centered position.
2. Loosen both spindle tie rod jam nuts on the same
side as the ski to be aligned.
3. Using a wrench on the spindle tie rod “flats,” rotate
the spindle tie rod until recommended specification
is attained.
4. Apply blue Loctite #243 to each jam nut thread area;
then tighten the jam nuts against the spindle tie rod.
NOTE: Repeat this procedure on each side (if neces-
sary) until ski toe-out is within specification.
! WARNING
Neglecting to lock the tie rod by tightening the jam nuts
may cause loss of snowmobile control and possible
personal injury.
A-Arms
(ZR/XF/Pantera/Norseman)
REMOVING
NOTE: The front bumper must be removed.
1. Elevate the front of the snowmobile and secure using
a suitable support stand.
2. Remove the push rivets securing the steering boot to
the chassis; then slide the boot away from the snowmobile.
3. Remove the torx-head screws securing the front skid
plate to the chassis; then remove the front skid plate.
4. Remove the ski shock absorber.
5. Remove the two lock nuts securing the spindle to the
A-arms; then using a rubber mallet, remove the arms
from the spindle. Discard the nuts.
VERIFYING
1. With the handlebar in the straight-ahead position,
verify ski alignment by measuring across from the
outside edge of the left-side wear bar bolts to the outside edge of the right-side wear bar bolts (without
using the straightedge) in two places: approximately
7-8 in. in front of the spindle and 7-8 in. behind the
spindle.
2. The measurement from in front of the spindle to the
outer edge of the wear bar bolts (without using the
straightedge) must not exceed the rear measurement
by more than 1/16-1/4 in. toe-out.
0734-408
SNO-354
6. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the
sway bar link to the lower arm. Discard the nut.
SNO-764
7. Remove the two cap screws and nyloc nuts securing
the lower arm to the chassis; then slide the boot from
the arm and remove the arm.
21
4. Secure the A-arms to the spindle.
5. Install the ski shock absorber.
6. Place the front skid plate into position; then secure
with the torx-head screws.
NOTE: Install the front bumper.
A-Arms (XF HC/M)
SNO-226A
8. Remove the two cap screws and lock nuts securing
the upper arm to the chassis. Discard the nuts.
INSPECTING
1. Inspect the arm welded areas for cracks or any signs
of deterioration.
2. Inspect the bearings and axles for wear or damage.
3. Inspect the arm tubing for signs of twisting or bending.
4. Inspect mounting location of the chassis for cracks or
wear.
INSTALLING
1. Place the upper arm into position on the chassis and
secure with the cap screws and new nyloc nuts.
Tighten to 23 ft-lb.
2. Slide the lower arm into the boot; then place the arm
into position on the chassis. Secure with the cap
screws and new nyloc nuts and tighten to 55 ft-lb
(front) and 45 ft-lb (rear).
REMOVING
1. Elevate the front of the snowmobile and secure using
a suitable support stand.
2. Remove the push rivets securing the steering boot to
the chassis; then slide the boot away from the snowmobile.
SNO-763
3. Remove the torx-head screws securing the front skid
plate to the chassis; then remove the front skid plate.
4. Remove the ski shock absorber.
5. Remove the lock nut, machine screw, and tri-nut
securing the spindle to the A-arms; then using a rubber mallet, remove the lower A-arm from the spindle.
SNO-226A
3. Secure the sway bar link to the lower arm with the
cap screw and new nyloc nut. Tighten to 23 ft-lb.
SNO-764
22
0749-480A
6. Remove the two cap screws and nyloc nuts securing
the lower arm to the chassis; then slide the boot from
the arm and remove the arm.
SNO-226A
7. Remove the two cap screws and lock nuts securing
the upper arm to the chassis.
PC095A
3. Secure the A-arms to the spindle using one new lock
nut and one new tri-nut. Tighten to the lock nut 45
ft-lb and the tri-nut to 23 ft-lb.
NOTE: If the upper A-arm ball joint is being
replaced, make sure the ball joint is threaded in as far
as it can. Do not adjust outward or damage to the
A-arm or ball joint can occur.
4. Using a 19 mm wrench, tighten the hex nut against
the upper A-arm securely making sure to keep the
ball joint level with the spindle.
5. Install the ski shock absorber and secure using the
existing cap screws and new lock nuts. Tighten to 24
ft-lb.
SNO-572
INSPECTING
1. Inspect the arm welded areas for cracks or any signs
of deterioration.
2. Inspect the bearings and axles for wear or damage.
3. Inspect the arm tubing for signs of twisting or bending.
4. Inspect mounting location of the chassis for cracks or
wear.
INSTALLING
1. Place the upper arm into position on the chassis and
secure with the cap screws, axles, and new lock nuts.
Tighten to 23 ft-lb.
6. Install the steering boot and secure using the existing
push-rivets; then place the front skid plate into position; then secure with the torx-head screws.
Ski Shock Absorber
REMOVING
1. Position the front of the snowmobile on a safety
stand taking all pressure off the skis.
2. Remove the cap screws securing the shock absorber
to the chassis and the lower A-arm; then remove the
shock absorber. Account for all mounting hardware.
CLEANING AND INSPECTING
1. Inspect the shock absorber seal area for signs of
excessive oil leakage.
2. Inspect the shock absorber mounting eyelet, bushings, and sleeve for wear or damage.
3. Inspect the threaded shock sleeve for damage or
wear.
INSTALLING
1. Using the shock spring tool, place the spring on the
shock absorber and secure with the retainer.
SNO-572
2. Slide the lower arm into the steering boot; then place
the arm into position on the chassis with the existing
bushings. Secure with the cap screws and new lock
nuts and tighten to 55 ft-lb (front) and 45 ft-lb (rear).
2. Adjust the retainer nut (spring adjuster) (if applicable) until the specified amount of threads are
exposed between the spring adjuster and the shock
housing (noted in removing) as an initial setting.
23
3. Install the bushings, sleeves, and spacers into each
shock end; then place the shock absorber into position and secure with the cap screws and new lock
nuts. Tighten the lock nuts to 32 ft-lb for
ZR/XF/Pantera models and 24 ft-lb for XF HC and
M models.
Sway Bar
REMOVING
1. Remove the nyloc nuts and cap screws securing the
sway bar link to the lower A-arm and the sway bar.
Front Bumper
REMOVING/INSTALLING
1. Remove all torx-head screws securing the front
bumper; then remove the bumper.
2. With the bumper in position, install all torx-head
screws. Tighten securely.
Seat Assembly
(ZR/XF/Norseman/M)
NOTE: On models with heated seats, be sure to discon-
nect the seat heater harness before removing the seat.
1. Remove the cap screw securing the rear of the seat;
then remove the seat.
SNO-764
2. Remove the torx-head screws securing the sway bar
mounting brackets; then pull the sway bar out of the
snowmobile.
INSPECTING
1. Inspect the sway bar for any signs of twisting,
fatigue, or wear.
2. Inspect the sway bar arms for cracks or damage.
3. Inspect the links, bushings, bushing retainers, and
hardware for damage or wear.
INSTALLING
1. Place the sway bar into the sway bar mounting
brackets; then install the sway bar into the snowmobile. Secure with the torx-head screws and tighten to
96 in.-lb.
2. Secure the sway bar links to the sway bar and lower
A-arm with the cap screws and new nyloc nuts.
Tighten to 23 ft-lb.
SNO-261A
2. Route the front tab on the seat through the seat-base
hold-down bracket; then install the seat and secure
using the cap screw.
SNO-227A
NOTE: On models with heated seats prior to lower-
ing and securing the seat, connect the seat heater harness connector.
SNO-764
24
Seat Assembly
(Pantera)
REMOVING/INSTALLING
1. Lift up both seat latches and hold them in that position; then lift
sure to disconnect the accessory harness.
0748-449
2. Release the lever securing the operator seat; then lift
up and remove the front seat. Make sure to disconnect the seat heater harness. Remove the operator
seat.
and remove the passenger seat. Make
Seat Cushion
REMOVING
1. Remove the seat assembly.
2. Using a sharp tool, pry out all staples securing the
seat cover to the plastic seat base.
3. From beneath the seat foam, remove the seat wire
from the two elastic loops; then remove the cover
from the seat base and seat foam.
INSTALLING
1. Position the cover over the seat foam and seat base;
then pull the two elastic loops through the slots in the
seat foam and secure with the seat wire. Check to
make sure it is positioned straight.
2. Fold the rear edge of the cushion down and around
the plastic base. Using a staple gun and 1/4 in. staples, staple the rear flap of the cushion to the plastic
base in the same areas as the original staples were
located. Position staples 1 in. apart.
3. Fold the sides of the cushion down around the bottom edge of the plastic seat base. Position the staples
in the same area as the original staples were located.
NOTE: Note the cushion fit. If any wrinkles are
noted, remove by pulling the cushion material in the
appropriate direction before securing with staples.
0748-419
3. To install the operator seat, route the front tab on the
operator seat through the seat-base hold-down
bracket; then secure the rear of the operator seat
using the lever.
4. To install the passenger seat, position the front of the
seat base tabs under the loops in the seat frame; then
press down and secure using the two seat latches.
4. Fold the front cushion material back and onto the
plastic seat base. Check for wrinkles and secure with
staples and two screws.
5. Install the seat assembly.
Taillight/Brake Light
Assembly
(ZR/XF/Norseman/M)
1. Remove the two machine screws securing the taillight to the taillight support; then disconnect the taillight harness connector.
SNO-454A
NOTE: Be sure to connect the accessory harness.
SNO-511
2. Connect the taillight harness connector; then secure
the taillight to the taillight support with the two
machine screws. Tighten to 48 in.-lb.
25
Taillight/Brake Light
Assembly (Pantera)
1. Remove the storage box lid; then remove the
machine screws securing the taillight to the rear rack
fascia. Disconnect the taillight harness connector.
XM098
2. Connect the taillight harness connector; then secure
the taillight to the rear rack fascia with the screws.
Tighten to 48 in.-lb. Install the storage box lid.
REMOVING SNOWFLAP
1. Drill out the rivets securing the snowflap to the tunnel; then remove the snowflap.
INSTALLING SNOWFLAP
1. Secure the snowflap to the tunnel using the appropriate rivets.
Windshield/Console/
Headlight
REMOVING
1. Remove and retain all machine screws securing the
hood; then disconnect the console harness and
remove the hood assembly.
2. Remove the eight screws securing the windshield to
the console; then remove the windshield.
3. Remove the four screws securing the console.
Rear Bumper/Snowflap
REMOVING BUMPER
1. Remove and retain only the two machine screws
securing the rear of the skid frame assembly.
2. Place cardboard or a suitable substitute on the floor
to protect the snowmobile from being scratched; then
install Steering Post Stand for the standard steering
models or Handlebar Stand for the adjustable steering models into the lower holes in the handlebar riser
(from the left-side) and tip the snowmobile onto its
left side.
3. Swing the skid frame assembly away from the chassis; then using a 3/16-in. drill bit, remove all rivets
securing the left-side of the bumper; then repeat for
opposite side.
4. Remove and retain the two machine screws and nuts
securing the front of the existing bumper to the chassis.
5. Remove the two rivets securing the snowflap to the
bumper. Remove the bumper.
INSTALLING BUMPER
1. Align the holes in the bumper with the existing holes
in the tunnel; then using new rivets, secure rear
bumper to the tunnel; then secure the snowflap to the
rear bumper using new rivets.
2. Secure the front of the bumper to the chassis using
the existing machine screws and nuts. Tighten
securely.
3. Install skid frame assembly using two existing
machine screws. Tighten securely.
YM-028A
4. Disconnect the gauge, electrical accessory wires, and
the ignition switch.
5. Remove the two screws securing the rear of the console to the hood (on the underside of the hood).
6. Loosen the two side headlight assembly screws; then
remove the two front headlight assembly screws.
YM-029A
7. Remove the headlight assembly.
INSTALLING
1. With the headlight assembly in position, install the
front headlight assembly screws. Engage the side
headlight screws in the slots and tighten until snug.
26
2. Engage the side console tabs on the headlight assembly; then place the front of the console over the headlight assembly and press down until it snaps in place.
3. Install the two screws securing the rear of the console to the hood. Tighten only until snug.
4. Place the windshield brace assembly into position
and secure to the console with the four screws.
Tighten until snug.
5. Check headlight aim (see Adjusting Headlight Aim
in this sub-section).
! WARNING
Do not operate the snowmobile unless headlight beam
is adjusted properly. An incorrectly adjusted beam will
not provide the operator the optimum amount of light.
5. Connect the gauge; then connect the electrical accessory wires and the ignition switch.
6. With the windshield in position, secure the windshield to the frame using the four screws. Tighten
securely.
7. Connect the console harness; then install the hood
assembly and secure with the screws.
Headlight Bulb
NOTE: The bulb portion of the headlight is fragile.
HANDLE WITH CARE. When replacing the headlight bulb, the bulb assembly must first be removed
from the housing. Do not touch the glass portion of
the bulb. If the glass is touched, it must be cleaned
with a dry cloth before installing.
1. Disconnect the headlight harness connector from the
bulb; then remove the rubber grommet from the
headlight housing.
2. Rotate the bulb retainer counterclockwise until it
unlocks from the housing; then remove the bulb.
Adjusting Headlight Aim
The headlight can be adjusted for vertical aim of the
HIGH/LOW beam. The geometric center of HIGH beam
zone is to be used for vertical aiming.
1. Position the snowmobile on a level floor so the headlight is approximately 25 ft from an aiming surface
(wall or similar surface).
NOTE: There should be an “average” operating
load on the snowmobile when adjusting headlight
aim.
2. Measure the distance from the floor to midpoint of
the headlight.
3. Using the measurement obtained in step 2, make a
horizontal mark on the aiming surface.
4. Make a vertical mark intersecting the horizontal
mark on the aiming surface directly in front of the
headlight.
5. Engage the brake lever lock and start the engine.
Select the headlight dimmer switch HIGH beam
position. DO NOT USE LOW BEAM.
6. Observe the headlight beam aim. Proper aim is when
the most intense beam is centered on the vertical
mark 5 cm (2 in.) below the horizontal mark on the
aiming surface.
0746-096
3. Install the bulb and retainer; then rotate the retainer
clockwise until it properly locks in place.
4. Install the rubber grommet; then connect the headlight harness connector to the bulb.
7. Adjust the headlight using the adjusting screw on the
backside of the headlight housing until correct aim is
obtained. Shut the engine off; then disengage the
brake lever lock.
0746-807
27
Engine
NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,
cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is necessary.
SPECIAL TOOLS
A number of special tools must be available to the technician when performing service procedures in this engine
section.
NOTE: When indicated for use, each special tool
will be identified by its specific name, as shown in the
chart below, and capitalized.
Descriptionp/n
Drive Clutch Bolt Tool0644-281
Drive Clutch Puller 0744-062
Drive Clutch Spanner Wrench0644-136
Engine Lift Plate0744-073
Hood Harness Extension1686-659
NOTE: Special tools are available from the Arctic
Cat Service Parts Department.
CAUTION
Never attempt to substitute any other drive clutch puller
for the recommended puller or severe clutch or crankshaft damage will occur.
0747-529
2. Park the snowmobile on a level surface; then remove
the torx-head screws and the rear access plate from
beneath the snowmobile.
3. Place a drain pan beneath the engine oil drain screw;
then remove the screw and allow the oil to drain
completely. Install the drain screw. Tighten the screw
with a new gasket to 10 ft-lb.
Engine Removing/Installing
— 3000
This engine sub-section has been organized to show a
progression for the removing/installing of the Arctic Cat
3000 engine. For consistency purposes, this sub-section
shows a complete and thorough progression; however,
for efficiency it may be preferable to remove only those
components needing to be addressed. Also, some components may vary from model to model. The technician
should use discretion and sound judgment.
Removing
NOTE: While removing the engine, note all cable tie
locations.
1. Remove both access panels; then disconnect the
hood harness and remove the torx screws securing
the hood. Remove the hood.
XM318A
4. Remove both seats; then disconnect the battery
cables (negative cable first). Remove the battery.
5. Remove the retaining nut from the neck of the gas
tank and the two screws securing the upper console.
Disconnect the wires from the reverse alarm, heated
shield outlet, heated seat, and the accessory outlet;
then loosen the 1/4 turn screws securing the lower
console to the skid plate and remove both upper and
lower consoles.
6. Remove the gas line vent hose from the check valve;
then disconnect the gasline hose connector hose from
the outlet of the fuel pump by pressing inward on the
white connector, pressing in the black release, and
finally pulling back on the hose.
7. Remove the cable ties securing the fuel pump wires
and the fuel level sender wires.
28
XM402
8. Remove the four cap screws securing the gas tank
assembly. Remove the gas tank.
9. Remove the cap screw from the driven clutch and
slide the driven clutch (along with the drive belt) off
the driven shaft. Account for alignment washers and
the sheave adjuster.
10. Remove the cap screw and washer securing the drive
clutch to the crankshaft.
11. Using the appropriate drive clutch puller, tighten the
puller. Remove the drive clutch.
NOTE: If the drive clutch will not release, sharply
strike the head of the puller. Repeat this step until the
clutch releases.
14. Loosen the two hose clamps securing the air silencer
to the throttle body and the intake tube; then disconnect the ignition coils from the main harness.
Remove the spark plug caps from the engine; then
remove the three screws securing the air silencer to
the tunnel. Remove the silencer.
XM427
15. Disconnect all connectors from the throttle body
assembly; then remove the screw and clamp securing
the harness to the throttle body.
12. Remove the five springs securing the resonator to the
exhaust manifold; then disconnect the oxygen sensor.
Remove the resonator.
XM401A
13. Remove the four nuts securing the exhaust manifold
to the engine. Account for two exhaust gaskets.
XM426
16. Loosen the nut securing the cable. Remove the cable
and the throttle body assembly.
XM406
17. Disconnect the main harness from both injectors;
then remove the four cap screws securing the intake
manifold to the engine. Remove the manifold.
XM403
29
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