This Arctic Cat Service Manual contains service and maintenance information for certain Model Year 2015 Arctic
Cat Snowmobiles (see cover). The manual is designed to aid service personnel in service-oriented applications.
This manual is divided into sections. The sections cover specific snowmobile components or systems and, in addition
to the standard service procedures, includes assembling, disassembling, and inspecting instructions. When using this
manual as a guide, the technician should use discretion as to how much disassembly is needed to correct any given condition.
The service technician should become familiar with the operation and construction of the components or systems by
carefully studying the complete manual. This will assist the service technician in becoming more aware of and efficient
with servicing procedures. Such efficiency not only helps build consumer confidence but also saves time and labor.
All Arctic Cat publications and snowmobile decals display the words Warning, Caution, and Note to emphasize important information. The symbol ! WARNING identifies personal safety-related information. Be sure to follow the
directive because it deals with the possibility of severe personal injury or even death. A CAUTION identifies
unsafe practices which may result in snowmobile-related damage. Follow the directive because it deals with the possibility of damaging part or parts of the snowmobile. The symbol NOTE: identifies supplementary information worthy
of particular attention.
At the time of publication, all information, photographs, and illustrations were technically correct. Some photographs
and illustrations used in this manual are used for clarity purposes only and are not designed to depict actual conditions.
Because Arctic Cat Inc. constantly refines and improves its products, no retroactive obligation is incurred.
All materials and specifications are subject to change without notice.
Keep this manual accessible in the shop area for reference.
Product Service and Warranty Department
Arctic Cat Inc.
NOTE: General specifications for each 2015 Arctic
Cat Snowmobile can be accessed from the Arctic Cat
Cat Tracker Dealer Communication System online.
NOTE: Some illustrations and photographs used in
this manual are used for clarity purposes only and
are not designed to depict actual conditions.
Snowmobile Identification
RECOMMENDED OIL (5000/9000)
The recommended oil to use is Synthetic 0W-40 Oil in all
temperatures and conditions.
The Arctic Cat Snowmobile has two important identification numbers. The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
is stamped into the tunnel near the right-side footrest or
on top of the tunnel. The decal also displays pertinent
production information. The Engine Serial Number
(ESN) is stamped into the crankcase of the engine.
These numbers are required to complete warranty claims
properly. No warranty will be allowed by Arctic Cat if
the engine serial number or VIN is removed or mutilated
in any way.
Recommended Gasoline
and Oil
CAUTION
Do not use white gas or gasoline containing methanol.
Only Arctic Cat approved gasoline additives should be
used.
CAUTION
Any oil used in place of the recommended oil may
cause serious damage.
RECOMMENDED GASOLINE (5000/
7000)
The recommended gasoline to use in these snowmobiles
is 87 octane regular unleaded. In many areas, oxygenates
are added to the gasoline. Oxygenated gasolines containing up to 10% ethanol are acceptable gasolines.
When using ethanol blended gasoline, adding a gasoline
antifreeze is not necessary since ethanol will prevent the
accumulation of moisture in the fuel system.
RECOMMENDED GASOLINE (9000)
The recommended gasoline to use in these snowmobiles
is 91 octane (minimum).
NOTE: If a situation arises in which 91 octane gasoline
is not available, 87 octane gasoline can be substituted;
however, do not prolong the usage of 87 octane gasoline
as it will cause poor engine performance.
In many areas, oxygenates are added to the gasoline.
Oxygenated gasolines containing up to 10% ethanol are
acceptable gasolines. Do not use gasolines containing
methanol.
OILCHARTJ
After the engine break-in period, the engine oil should be
changed every 2500-3000 miles (5000) or 1500-2000
miles (9000) and before prolonged storage.
RECOMMENDED OIL (7000)
The recommended oil to use is Synthetic C-TEC4 Oil (p/
n 6639-529 - gal.).
After the engine break-in period, the engine oil should be
changed every 2500 miles before prolonged storage and
the oil filter should be changed every 12,000 miles.
Engine Break-In
5000/9000
The Arctic Cat 4-stroke engine (when new or rebuilt)
requires a short break-in period before the engine is subjected to heavy load conditions.
This engine does not require any pre-mixed fuel during
the break-in period.
CAUTION
DO NOT use premixed fuel in the snowmobile gas tank.
Engine damage will occur.
To ensure trouble-free operation, careful adherence to the
following break-in guidelines will be beneficial.
0-200 miles1/2 Throttle (45 MPH-max)
200-400 miles1/2-3/4 Throttle
400-600 miles1/2-3/4 Throttle *
* With occasional full-throttle operation.
To ensure proper engine break-in, Arctic Cat recommends that the engine oil and filter be changed after 500
miles or after one month, whichever comes first. This
service is at the discretion and expense of the snowmobile owner.
7000
The engine (when new or rebuilt) requires a short breakin period before the engine is subjected to heavy load
conditions.
This engine does not require any pre-mixed fuel during
the break-in period.
2
There is never a more important period in the life of the
engine than the first 500 km (300 miles).
Following are basic altitude theories for clutching,
engine, suspension, and track.
Since the engine is brand new, do not put an excessive
load on it for the first 500 km (300 miles). The various
parts in the engine wear and polish themselves to the correct operating clearances. During this period, prolonged
full throttle operation or any condition that might result
in engine overheating must be avoided.
Operating your snowmobile for the first time: Start the
engine and let it idle for 15 minutes.
0-160 km (0–100 miles): Avoid prolonged operation
above 6000 RPM.
160-500 km (100–300 miles): Avoid prolonged operation
above 8000 RPM.
500 km (300 miles) and beyond: The snowmobile can
now be operated normally.
NOTE: After 800 km (500 miles) of operation, the
engine oil must be changed and the oil filter replaced.
If any engine trouble should occur during the engine
break-in period, immediately have an Arctic Cat
dealer check the snowmobile.
Drive Belt Break-In
Drive belts require a break-in period of approximately 25
miles. Drive the snowmobile for 25 miles at 3/4 throttle
or less. By revving the engine up and down (but not
exceeding 60 mph), the exposed cord on the side of a
new belt will be worn down. This will allow the drive
belt to gain its optimum flexibility and will extend drive
belt life.
NOTE: Before starting the snowmobile in extremely
cold temperatures, the drive belt should be removed
and warmed up to room temperature. Once the drive
belt is at room temperature, install the drive belt (see
Drive Belt sub-section in the Drive Train/Track/Brake
Systems section of this manual).
CAUTION
Running the engine with the drive belt removed could
result in serious engine damage and drive clutch failure.
Genuine Parts
When replacement of parts is necessary, use only genuine
Arctic Cat parts. They are precision-made to ensure high
quality and correct fit.
Varying Altitude Operation
Operating a snowmobile at varying altitudes requires recalibration of drive system components.
The altitude information decal is located beneath the hood
of the snowmobile on the belt guard on the 5000 models.
Consult the appropriate specification sheet on Cat Tracker
Online.
CLUTCHING
On a normally-aspirated engine as altitude changes,
engine horsepower changes with it. As you go up in altitude, the engine loses horsepower. Because of this, the
continuously variable transmission (CVT) system needs
to be calibrated to compensate for the horsepower loss.
At altitudes above 5000 ft, the engine loses peak horsepower but will also lose horsepower at engagement speed.
For this reason, calibrating the drive system is usually
needed in order to attain acceptable performance. Changing
drive clutch engagement speed can be done several ways.
Some of the methods will affect other characteristics of
CVT operation, so you must be careful what you change.
Drive clutch springs are the most common way to increase
engagement speed; however, by simply changing the cam
arms to a lighter weight from the heavier sea level cam arm,
you will gain some engagement speed.
Other more complicated methods exist such as engagement notches and changing the position of the cam arm
center of gravity in relation to the roller. This is called
“tucking the weight” and can be used, but, like the
engagement notch, it can hurt belt life.
The driven clutch will also play a part in CVT tuning for
high altitude operation. A steeper helix (torque bracket)
angle in the driven clutch will mean a quicker up-shift. A
shallower angle will mean a slower up-shift. If the up-shift
is too quick, due to a very steep helix, RPM will be pulled
down under the peak operating RPM of the engine (where
the horsepower is) and performance will suffer. The engine
may even bog. If you have a helix that is too shallow, the
engine may over-rev or have poor acceleration. Usually,
angles shallower than the sea level calibrations work best.
The driven spring will also affect driven clutch tuning.
Tighten the spring, and RPM will increase. Loosen the
spring, and RPM will decrease. The spring should be used
to fine-tune and complement the helix selection.
Carburetor calibration changes for high altitude operation will
have an effect on the CVT system and how it operates. Understanding the basics of CVT operation is important in order to
make the correct high altitude CVT calibration changes.
ENGINE
A normally aspirated engine will generate more horsepower
at sea level than it does at higher altitudes. The reason is that
the higher you go, less oxygen is available for the engine to
use during its combustion process. Less oxygen means it
needs less fuel to obtain the correct air/fuel ratio to operate
properly. This is why the fuel ratio has to be recalibrated.
High altitude engines operate as though they have a lower
compression ratio. This, along with less oxygen and less
fuel, means that the engine generates less horsepower. All
of these characteristics will become more evident the higher
the altitude.
TURBOCHARGING
Turbocharging is one method of compensating for loss of
air density that works extremely well when applied to
four-cycle internal combustion engines.
3
Exhaust gasses are directed through the turbocharger turbine wheel which is attached to the compressor through a
common shaft. As the exhaust gasses spin the turbine, the
compressor is spun at very high RPM. Inlet air is drawn into
the compressor, compressed, and routed to the intake manifold of the engine. Intake pressure, therefore, is maintained
at the optimum level as altitude or temperature increases.
The turbocharger output must be regulated to maintain the
optimum manifold pressure throughout the designed operating range. This is accomplished by regulating the volume
of exhaust gasses passing through the turbine by controlling
a diverter valve (waste gate) at the turbocharger turbine
inlet. At lower altitudes/temperatures, excessive exhaust
gasses are diverted past the turbine and into the exhaust
downstream of the turbocharger thus limiting the compressor output to maintain correct manifold pressure.
As altitude increases, the manifold pressure is held constant
by diverting less exhaust past the turbine, thus increasing
compressor speed. This will continue until the waste-gate is
completely closed at which time manifold pressure will start
to decrease much the same as a normally aspirated engine.
The waste gate is controlled by a spring/diaphragm
mechanism that is connected to the intake manifold by an
air line. A mechanical linkage connects the diaphragm to
the waste gate control arm.
Air is heated by friction and compression through the turbocharger and air density is lost by heating the air; therefore, an
after-cooler is installed between the turbocharger compressor
and the intake manifold. This is an air-to-air after-cooler that
uses outside air directed through a radiator-type cooler to cool
the compressed air prior to entering the intake manifold.
SUSPENSION
The different riding styles of the individual operator, the
varying snow conditions, and the type of terrain are all
factors that affect the suspension at high altitude. Trail
riding versus powder snow riding versus combination
riding will all require different suspension settings.
The normal setting for front ski suspension is as little spring
pre-load tension as possible for powder snow riding allowing the skis to float across the snow with the least amount
of resistance. Trail riding will require more spring tension
to carry the varying load more effectively. Many different
settings and spring tensions to consider exist when adjusting for riding style and snow conditions.
The rear suspension has a number of spring settings that
produce different riding characteristics.
The front arm spring and shock will also affect the ride and
handling when either on a trail or in powder snow. A strong
spring setting on this shock will cause the snowmobile to
tend to “dig” more when riding in the powder snow rather
than climbing up on top of the snow. But, it will work more
effectively when riding on a trail. A softer spring setting
will allow the front of the rear suspension to collapse much
quicker and change the angle of the track to the snow. A
more gradual angle will tend to raise the snowmobile up on
the snow rather than digging into it.
Many possible variables and adjustments to the rear suspension exist depending on snow conditions, riding style,
and type of terrain. These adjustments can be made to individualize the snowmobile to the riding style of the operator.
As snow cover and riding conditions change, several different adjustments can be made to change the ride and handling characteristics for operator preference. Located on
the front suspension arm are limiter straps. They limit the
amount of “fallout” the front arm can have. These straps
may be adjusted in or out due to conditions and riding
style. The more the straps are brought up, the more steering
power the operator has due to the amount of ski pressure.
Another adjustment that can be made on the rear suspension is the front arm shock spring tension. As trail conditions change, the spring pre-load may be used to decrease
the chance of the front end “bottoming out.” With a stiffer
spring pre-load, the ride of the snowmobile will improve on
the trail but will affect the performance in the deep powder
snow. In deep powder snow, the stiffer spring pre-load will
cause the front-end to “dig” and possibly take longer for it
to plane off. Several different-rate springs are available for
different riding styles and terrain conditions.
On the standard models, the front shock springs are also
individually adjustable for the terrain conditions and
driving style of the operator. The spring adjuster has been
set at the factory so the correct amount of threads are
exposed between the spring adjuster and the shock housing as an initial setting. Additional ski pressure can be
obtained by tightening the spring tension; ski pressure
can be decreased by relaxing spring tension. Springs with
different spring rates are available for operator choice
and snow conditions.
A limit exists as to how far you can pre-load the springs
before “coil bind” takes effect where the wire on the
spring actually runs into itself and causes binding. Equal
adjustments should be maintained on both sides of the
snowmobile. On the Sno Pro models with air shocks,
they are individually adjustable for the terrain conditions
and driving style of the operator. The shocks are preset at
the factory (see chart) as an initial setting; however, it is
possible to “fine tune” the shocks to match the operator’s
weight, riding style, and terrain conditions.
Initial Setting Chart
ModelFront Shock (Ski)Rear Arm Shock
ZR Sno Pro
M Sno Pro
XF Cross Country
XF CrossTour
RR 250 psi (nitrogen)
5.3 kg/cm
6.3 kg/cm2 (90 psi)10.2-10.6 kg/cm2
5.3 kg/cm2 (75 psi)
25/225 psi (air)
(75 psi)
N/A
2
10.19 kg/cm
10.19 kg/cm
N/A
(145-150 psi)
2
(145 psi)
2
(145 psi)
250 psi (nitrogen)
Checking and adjusting air pressure must be done at riding
temperature (outside) and shocks are at full extension with
no weight on the shock. Also, it is advisable to check air
pressure when the outside temperature varies more than 25°.
NOTE: Care should be taken to have equal pressure
in the ski shocks before operating the snowmobile.
Finally, track tension should be looked at to make sure that it
is within recommended specifications to affect the efficiency
of the snowmobile. On models with the torque sensing link,
the track is actually tightening as the suspension moves
through its range of motion causing the track to sag in the
middle and rub on the top part of the rear suspension arm.
4
TRACK
Carefully matching the riding requirements to the type of
track will ensure the maximum use of all available engine
power. Lug height and track durometer are the two main
concerns when selecting a track for various riding styles.
Tracks exist with lug heights from 0.750” up to 2.6” to
accommodate various snow conditions. Generally, the
deeper the snow, the taller the lug. It must be noted that
the installation of any deep-lug track may reduce top end
speed and promote premature wear strip wear in marginal
snow conditions.
8. Tighten all nuts, bolts, and cap screws making sure
all calibrated nuts, bolts, and cap screws are tightened to specifications. Make sure all rivets holding
the components together are tight. Replace all loose
rivets.
9. Clean and polish the hood, console, and chassis with
Cat Cleaner. DO NOT USE SOLVENTS. THE PROPELLENT WILL DAMAGE THE FINISH.
10. On electric start models, disconnect the battery
cables making sure to disconnect the negative cable
first; then clean the battery posts and cables.
Durometer is a measurement of how hard a rubber is. The
lugs on most tracks range between 60 and 85 durometer.
On the durometer scale, the higher the number, the harder
the lugs. For riding in deep powder snow, a softer durometer track works best. The softer rubber allows the track to
“give” a little and pack the snow creating lift rather than
digging its way straight down. When hill-climbing, the
harder lug of an 80 durometer track works the best due to
penetrating the hard snow creating more bite.
Some tracks come with a dual durometer rating, such as a
track with a 80/60 durometer rating. The lugs on this track
are 80% 80 durometer rubber, and the top 20% is made of
the softer 60 durometer rubber. This track is designed to be
a good all-around track for riding mostly in deep powder
snow but can climb the occasional hard snow hill.
Preparation For Storage
Prior to storing the snowmobile, it must be properly serviced to prevent corrosion and component deterioration.
1. Clean the seat cushion with a damp cloth and Arctic
Cat Vinyl Protectant.
2. Clean the snowmobile thoroughly by hosing dirt, oil,
grass, and other foreign matter from the skid frame,
tunnel, hood, and belly pan. Allow the snowmobile
to dry thoroughly. DO NOT get water into any part
of the engine.
3. Change the engine oil and replace the air filter on the
9000 if necessary.
4. Fill the gas tank to its rated capacity; then add Arctic
Cat Fuel Stabilizer to the gas tank following directions on the container for the stabilizer/gasoline
ratio. Tighten the gas tank cap securely.
5. With the snowmobile level, check the lubricant level
in the chain case. If low, add chain lube through the
fill plug hole.
6. Remove the drive belt from the drive clutch/driven
clutch. Lay the belt on a flat surface or slide it into a
cardboard sleeve to prevent warping or distortion
during storage; then clean and inspect the drive
clutch and driven clutch.
7. Apply light oil to the upper steering post bushings
and to the shafts of the shock absorbers; then lubricate the rear suspension with an all-temperature
grease.
CAUTION
Sealed batteries require charging if left for extended
non-start periods. Arctic Cat recommends trickle charging once a month. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions and cautions.
CAUTION
On models with remote start, make sure to leave the
battery cables disconnected. Failure to disconnect the
battery cables when storing the snowmobile for a prolonged period of time (six weeks or more) will result in a
discharged or damaged battery.
11. If possible, store the snowmobile indoors. Raise the
track off the floor by blocking up the back end making sure the snowmobile is secure. Loosen the track
adjusting bolts to reduce track tension. Cover the
snowmobile with a machine cover or a heavy, ventilated tarpaulin to protect it from dirt and dust.
12. If the snowmobile must be stored outdoors, position
the snowmobile out of direct sunlight; then block the
entire snowmobile off the ground making sure the
snowmobile is secure. Loosen the track adjusting
bolts to reduce track tension. Cover with a machine
cover or a heavy, ventilated tarpaulin to protect it
from dirt, dust, and rain.
CAUTION
Avoid storing in direct sunlight and using a plastic cover as
moisture may collect on the snowmobile causing corrosion.
Preparation After Storage
Taking the snowmobile out of storage and correctly preparing it for another season will assure many miles and
hours of trouble-free snowmobiling. Arctic Cat recommends the following procedure:
1. Clean the snowmobile thoroughly. Polish the exterior
of the snowmobile.
2. Clean the engine. Remove the cloth from the exhaust
system. Check exhaust system and air silencer for
obstructions.
3. Inspect all control wires and cables for signs of wear
or fraying. Replace if necessary. Use cable ties or
tape to route wires and cables away from hot or rotating parts.
4. Inspect the drive belt for cracks and tears. Check belt
specifications. Replace if damaged or worn. Install
the drive belt (see the Drive Train/Track/Brake Systems section).
5
NOTE: If the old belt is worn but in reasonable condition, retain it with the snowmobile as a spare in
case of emergency.
Below is a list of items to check after the break-in period.
The recommended mileage for this inspection is between
100 and 300 miles.
5. Adjust the throttle cable. Inspect all fuel hoses and
oil hoses for deterioration or cracks; replace if necessary. Make sure all connections are tight.
6. Tighten all nuts, bolts, and cap screws making sure
all calibrated nuts, bolts, and cap screws are tightened to specifications.
7. If not done during preparation for storage, lubricate
the rear suspension with an all-temperature grease.
8. Check the coolant level and all coolant hoses and
connections for deterioration or cracks. Add properly
mixed coolant as necessary.
9. On electric start models, charge the battery; then
connect the battery cables making sure to connect the
positive cable first. Test the electric start system.
10. Inspect the entire brake system, all controls, headlight, taillight, brake light, ski wear bars, and headlight aim; adjust or replace as necessary.
11. Adjust the track to the proper tension and alignment.
After Break-In Checkup/
Checklist
Certain areas require adjustment after the break-in period
in order to obtain peak performance. These areas are the
following.
DRIVE BELT DEFLECTION
very important to the snowmobile. Even if it is checked and is
correct when the snowmobile is set up, it does change (more so
during the break-in period). This is because the rubber engine
mounts and the rubber snubber on the torque link will all take
a “set” during the first 100 miles allowing the distance
between the drive clutch and driven clutch to shorten. When
this happens, the snowmobile will appear to have a too long
drive belt. To add to this, the drive belt itself wears and
stretches somewhat leading to a low-end performance problem
and, if not corrected, causes premature drive belt wear.
After the break-in period, drive belt deflection should be
checked according to the instructions given in the Drive
Train/Track/Brake Systems section of this manual.
DRIVE CLUTCH/DRIVEN CLUTCH
ALIGNMENT
— The alignment between the drive
clutch and driven clutch are set at the factory. Normally,
no adjustment is necessary; however, if premature drive
belt wear or poor performance is experienced, the drive
clutch/driven clutch alignment must be checked.
TRACK TENSION AND ALIGNMENT
amount of stretch occurs on all tracks during the first 500
miles. The track must be inspected/adjusted after the first
50 to 100 miles to the specifications given in the Track
Specifications sub-section of this section and periodically
thereafter. If these adjustments aren’t performed, the track
may “derail” which leads to track and slide rail damage.
Along with these major areas, other areas should be checked
and adjusted.
— Drive belt deflection is
— A certain
Check drive belt deflection - drive clutch/driven
Crankshaft Position Sensor 173-211 ohmsblue/white green/white
Injection Coil 3.6 ohmsblack/yellow black
Voltage Regulator/Rectifier* 12-14.5 DC Voltsterminalterminal
Magneto Coil (no load)
(3 tests)
Spark Plug Cap4000-6000 ohmscap endcap end
Ignition SwitchLess than 1 ohm
NOTE: Lighting coil output is unregulated voltage.
! WARNING
Most voltages generated by the ignition system are sufficient to interrupt pacemakers! All technicians, especially those using pacemakers, must avoid contact with
all electrical connections.
A list of Drive System components that are available
through the Arctic Cat Service Parts Department can be
found in the Quick Reference Guide. This information
will be useful when doing any fine-tuning on the drive
system.
ZR LXR129"1" 1.75-2"2-2.25"
ZR Sno Pro129"1.25" 1.75-2"2-2.25"
M Standard
M Sno Pro/HCR/LTD
Pantera
XF Standard137"1.25"1.75-2"2-2.25"
XF CrossTour141”1.25”1.75-2"2-2.25"
XF Cross Country141"1.60"1.75-2”2-2.25"
XF High Country
XF Sno Pro
models should be 2-in. @ 20 lb. The track tension on
141”, 153”, and 162” models should be 2-in. @ 12-15 lb.
Suspension Specifications
SPRINGS
SKI SHOCK (*Active, **Total)
Model
ZR LXR/M (STD)/XF
LXR/Pantera
Model
ZR LXR/XF LXR
Pantera
Model
M STD/XF 137”
REAR ARM (See Illustration Below)
Model
ZR/XF 137”
Pantera
Wire
Diameter
0.331”13.00” 120 lb/in.9.6NO
Wire
Diameter
0.312”8.25”90/250
0.312”7.75” 110 lb/in.7NO
Wire
Diameter
0.375”13.00” 175 lb/in.10.5NO
Wire
Diameter
.405"90°3.65"6.7518.50”
.405”80°3.65”6.7518.50”
Free
Length
FRONT ARM
Free
Length
REAR ARM
Free
Length
Angle
(A)
(B)
Rate CoilsTab
RateCoilsTab
lb/in.
RateCoilsTab
Coil
Width
(C)
9.8NO
Length
Coils
(D)
IFP SHOCK ABSORBERS
Below is a list of IFP shock absorbers used on the front
and rear suspensions of Arctic Cat snowmobiles. If
replacing a shock absorber, always select a shock
absorber with the same length, both collapsed and
extended.
SKI
Model
ZR/XF/Pantera12.59”18.38”5.79”7.63”
M
Model
ZR
XF/Pantera
M Standard8.10”11.25”3.15”5.01”
Model
ZR LXR10.08”14.37”4.48”0.90”
XF LXR/Pantera
M Standard
Collapsed
Length
11.31”17.17”6.09”7.63”
FRONT ARM
Collapsed
Length
8.16”11.76”3.71”5.14”
8.56”12.50”3.93”3.97”
REAR ARM
Collapsed
Length
10.32”15.12”4.79”0.89”
11.10”16.00”5.10”5.01”
Extended
Length
Extended
Length
Extended
Length
Stroke
Stroke
Stroke
Piston
Depth
Piston
Depth
Piston
Depth
0730-218
11
Torque Conversions
ft-lbN-mft-lbN-mft-lbN-mft-lbN-m
11.42635.45169.476103.4
22.72736.75270.777104.7
34.12838.15372.178106.1
45.42939.45473.479107.4
56.83040.85574.880108.8
68.23142.25676.281110.2
79.53243.55777.582111.5
810.93344.95878.983112.9
912.23446.25980.284114.2
1013.63547.66081.685115.6
11153649618386117
1216.33750.36284.387118.3
1317.73851.76385.788119.7
14193953648789121
1520.44054.46588.490122.4
1621.84155.86689.891123.8
1723.14257.16791.192125.1
1824.54358.56892.593126.5
1925.84459.86993.894127.8
2027.24561.27095.295129.2
2128.64662.67196.696130.6
2229.94763.97297.997131.9
2331.34865.37399.398133.3
2432.64966.674100.699134.6
2534506875102100136
Torque Specifications
NOTE: Torque specifications have the following tol-
erances:
Torque (ft-lb)Tol eran ce
0-15±20%
16-39±15%
40+±10%
DRIVE SYSTEM
ItemSecured to
Drive Clutch***Engine
Drive Clutch CoverMovable Sheave
Cam Arm Pin Lock NutCam Arm Pin
Cam Arm Set ScrewCam Arm
Driven Clutch**Driven Shaft
Movable SheaveTorque Bracket
Chain Case (Cap Screw)Chassis
Chain Case (Torx-Head Screw)Chassis
Chain Case CoverChain Case
Shift ActuatorChain Case Cover
Brake Caliper**Chassis
Outside Caliper HousingInside Caliper Housing
BrakelineCaliper
BrakelineMaster Cylinder
Brake CaliperShield Cover
Tor que
ft-lb
51
120 in.-lb
11
19 in.-lb
20
72 in.-lb
96 in.-lb
12
12
36 in.-lb
25
25
25
25
96 in.-lb
STEERING/FRONT SUSPENSION/CHASSIS
ItemSecured to
SkiSpindle
SkiWearbar
SkiSki Handle
Handlebar Adjuster Block (Standard) Post15
Handlebar Adjuster (Sno Pro)Post15
Steering SupportMounting Block8
Steering Tie Rod LinkSteering Post
Steering Tie Rod LinkSteering Arm
Steering Post CapRiser Block
Steering PostChassis55
Steering Tie RodSteering Arm 20
Tie RodSpindle Arm32
Steering SupportSpar
Steering SupportUpper Console
Steering ArmChassis
A-Arm (Upper) (M)Chassis9
A-Arm (Upper)Chassis23
A-Arm (Lower)Chassis (Front)65
A-Arm (Lower)Chassis (Rear)
A-Arm Spindle
Shock Absorber (ZR, XF)Spindle
Shock Absorber (ZR, XF)Chassis
Shock Absorber (M)Spindle24
Shock Absorber (M)Chassis24
Sway Bar LinkA-Arm/Sway Bar Link
Sway Bar Mounting BracketChassis
Torque
ft-lb
35
8
54 in.-lb
35
20
15
20
30 in.-lb
8
45
45
32
32
23
9
REAR SUSPENSION
M/XF 141”
Wear StripRail
End CapRail
Mounting BlockRail12
Rear Wheel AxleRail34
Rear ArmRail20
Idler Arm (M)Rear Arm
Idler Arm (XF)Rear Arm
Front ShockRail
Rear Shock (M)Front Arm/Idler Arm24
Rear Shock (XF)Front Arm/Idler Arm40
Rail SupportRail20
Front Shock (M)Front Arm
Front Shock (XF)Front Arm
Limiter StrapRail Support
Rail (M/HCR)Rail Brace
Rear Tri Hub WheelRear Tri Hub Wheel50 in.-lb
Rear Shock Link (M)Front Arm/Idler Arm24
Rear Shock Link (XF)Front Arm/Idler Arm
Front ArmRa il
Skid FrameTunnel
50 in.-lb
80 in.-lb
20
40
50
24
40
72 in.-lb
12
40
52
45
ZR/XF 137”/Pantera
Wear StripRail
End CapRail80 in.-lb
Mounting BlockRail12
Rear ArmRail45
Rear ArmIdler Arm
Spring SlideRail
Front ArmRa il
Coupler Block AxleRail40
Limiter StrapRail Support72 in.-lb
Rear Tri Hub WheelRear Tri Hub Wheel50 in.-lb
Rear Wheel AxleRail
Skid FrameTunnel
Front ShockRail
Rail SupportRail20
Limiter StrapFront Arm72 in.-lb
* w/Green Loctite #609
** w/Blue Loctite #243
50 in.-lb
55
20
52
34
55**
50
*** w/Oil
12
Steering and Body
5000
7000
9000
This section has been organized into sub-sections for servicing steering and body components; however, some
components may vary from model to model. The technician should use discretion and sound judgment when
removing and installing components.
NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,
cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is necessary.
SPECIAL TOOLS
A special tool must be available to the technician when
servicing the steering and body systems.
Descriptionp/n
Shock Spring Removal Tool
Handlebar Stand
Steering Post Stand
0644-057
5639-152
5639-946
NOTE: Special tools are available from the Arctic
Cat Service Parts Department.
Steering Post
REMOVING (Standard)
To remove the access panel and hood, use the following
procedure:
1. Remove the hairpin clip from the pin located at the
front of the access panel. Move the panel up and off
the pin; then swing the panel all the way out and
unhinge the panel from the lower console.
2. Remove all six torx-head screws securing the hood.
0747-529
0746-791
3. Locate the hood harness connector (located under the
center vent between the intake vents) and unplug the
connector; then move the hood slightly forward and
remove the hood.
NOTE: On the 9000, first unhook the rubber straps
securing the air filter housing to the intake plenum of
the hood; then move the hood slightly forward and
remove the hood.
4. Remove the push rivets securing the right-side steering
boot to the chassis. This allows access to the two nuts
securing the bottom of the steering post.
0746-792
XM134A
5. Remove the nut (A) securing the bottom of the existing steering post to the steering stop bracket; then
remove the nut (B) securing the steering tie rod
assembly to the steering post. Discard both nuts.
13
SNO-2221A
9000
6. Remove the cap screws and handlebar caps securing
the handlebar to the top of the handlebar riser; then
remove the two torx-head screws and nuts securing
the top of steering post to the chassis. Account for
both steering post blocks and retaining plate.
SNO-357
7. Carefully remove the steering post from the snowmobile.
REMOVING (Vertical)
To remove the access panel and hood, use the following
procedure:
1. Remove the hairpin clip from the pin located at the
front of the access panel; then unscrew the thumb
screw. Move the panel up and off the pin; then swing
the panel all the way out and unhinge the panel from
the lower console.
0746-792
3. Locate the hood harness connector (located under the
center vent between the intake vents) and unplug the
connector; then move the hood slightly forward and
remove the hood.
NOTE: On the 9000, first unhook the rubber straps
securing the air filter housing to the intake plenum of
the hood; then move the hood slightly forward and
remove the hood.
4. Remove the five push rivets securing the right-side
steering boot to the chassis. This allows access to the
two nuts securing the bottom of the steering post.
XM134A
5. Remove the nut (A) securing the bottom of the existing steering post to the steering stop bracket; then
remove the nut (B) securing the steering tie rod
assembly to the steering post. Discard both nuts.
0746-800
2. Remove all six torx-head screws securing the hood.
14
SNO-2221A
6. Remove the torx-head screws and handlebar caps
securing the handlebar to the top of the handlebar
riser.
SNO-1025
7. Remove the two machine screws and nuts securing
the front and rear steering supports around the steering post.
SNO-817
8. Remove the two torx-head screws and nuts securing
the top of steering post to the chassis. Account for
both steering post blocks and retaining plate.
SNO-1026A
10. Remove the steering post.
INSPECTING
1. Inspect all welded areas for cracks or deterioration.
2. Inspect the steering post and steering-post retaining
plate for cracks, bends, or wear.
3. Inspect the adjuster caps and mounting block for
cracks or wear.
INSTALLING (Standard)
1. Install steering post into position and secure to the
steering stop bracket with a new M10 nut. Be sure to
align the steering post ball joint alignment tab
with the steering stop bracket. Tighten to 43 ft-lb.
SNO-1027A
9. Remove both cap screws and flat washers securing
the front steering support to the chassis. Remove the
support.
SNO-2218
2. Secure the tie rod assembly to the steering post using
a new M10 nut. Be sure to align the tie rod balljoint alignment tab with the steering post. Tighten
to 35 ft-lb.
SNO-2219
3. Secure the right-side steering boot to the chassis
using the existing push rivets.
15
XM134A
4. Secure the top of the steering post to the steering
support using the existing retaining plate and nuts.
Tighten to 96 in.-lb.
5. Install the expansion chamber using the existing
springs; then connect the exhaust temperature sensor
to the main harness.
6. Position the hood onto the snowmobile and connect
the hood harness connector.
NOTE: On the 9000 prior to securing the hood,
make sure the air filter is seated properly into the air
silencer and secured using the two rubber straps.
7. Secure the hood with the six torx-head screws and
tighten securely.
NOTE: On the 5000, make sure the foam seal is in
place on the air intake.
NOTE: On the 9000, make sure the air filter housing
is properly connected and secured with the rubber
straps to the intake plenum of the hood and turbocharger.
8. Install the access panels onto the lower console; then
close the access panels and secure with the clip.
SNO-2219
3. Secure the right-side steering boot to the chassis
using the existing push rivets.
XM134A
4. Secure the top of the steering post to the steering
support using the existing retaining plate, blocks,
machine screws, and nuts. Tighten to 96 in.-lb.
5. Using two aluminum washers (A) and cap screws
(B), loosely secure front steering support to the steering support. Finger tighten only at this time.
INSTALLING (Vertical)
1. Install steering post into position and secure to the
steering stop bracket with a new M10 nut. Be sure to
align the steering post ball joint alignment tab
with the steering stop bracket. Tighten to 43 ft-lb.
SNO-2218
2. Secure the tie rod assembly to the steering post using
a new M10 nut. Be sure to align the tie rod balljoint alignment tab with the steering post. Tighten
to 35 ft-lb.
16
SNO-814A
NOTE: The aluminum washers must be installed
between the steering support and the front steering
support tubes.
6. Secure handlebar riser to the steering post and the
handlebar using the existing handlebar caps and cap
screws. Finger tighten only at this time.
7. Position front steering support around the steering
post making sure the bearing lip (A) is on top of the
front and rear steering supports and is aligned withthe notch in the rear steering support. Secure
using existing machine screws (B) and nuts. Finger
tighten only at this time.
SNO-817A
INSPECTING
1. Inspect the ski for cracks or deterioration.
2. Inspect the ski for abnormal bends or cracks.
3. Inspect the wear bar for wear.
4. Inspect all hardware and the spindle bushings for
wear and damage.
5. Inspect the rubber damper for damage or wear.
INSTALLING
1. Slide a washer onto the cap screw used to secure the
ski; then apply all-temperature grease to the shaft
portion of the cap screw and spindle axle.
2. Install the spindle axle into the spindle; then position
the ski damper into the bottom of the ski making sure
the damper is properly positioned for the desired ski
stance.
SNO-1028A
8. Tighten the four cap screws securing the front and
rear support tubes to 25 ft-lb; then tighten the two
machine screws securing the front and rear support
tubes around the steering post to 8 ft-lb.
9. Secure the handlebar harness to the handlebar riser
using two cable ties.
10. Position the handlebar to the desired position; then
tighten all eight screws evenly to 15 ft-lb.
11. Install the upper and lower console; then install the
seat using the existing hardware.
12. Install the hood and both access panels.
NOTE: Prior to securing the hood, make sure the air
filter is seated properly into the air silencer and
secured using the two rubber straps.
NOTE: Make sure the air filter housing is properly
connected and secured with the rubber straps to the
intake plenum of the hood and turbocharger.
Ski
REMOVING
1. Elevate the front of the snowmobile and secure on a
support stand.
2. Remove and discard the cotter pin; then remove the
nut and cap screw securing the ski to the spindle.
NOTE: Note the orientation of the damper for instal-
lation purposes.
3. Remove the ski. Account for the rubber damper and
washers.
0746-796
0746-797
NOTE: The ski damper must be positioned in the ski
so it is directly under the spindle.
3. With the cap screw hole of the ski centered with the
spindle axle, slide the cap screw with washer through
the outside of the ski and spindle assemblies.
NOTE: Local laws and/or regulations as to maxi-
mum width of the ski stance may be applicable.
Always comply with the maximum width laws and/or
regulations when adjusting ski stance.
NOTE: Install the cap screw so the lock nut will be
located to the inside of the ski and the cotter pin slot
in the cap screw will be horizontal with the ski.
4. Install the remaining washer and lock nut; then
tighten the lock nut to 35 ft-lb.
17
NOTE: Assure that the cotter pin slot in the cap
screw is still horizontal with the ski (see illustration);
then proceed to step 5.
5. Install a new cotter pin from the back side of the ski
cap screw and spread the pin.
Ski Wear Bar
The ski wear bar is a replaceable bar attached to the
underside of the ski. If the snowmobile is operated primarily in deep snow, ski wear bar wear will be minimal;
however, if the snowmobile is operated on terrain where
the snow cover is minimal, the ski wear bar will wear
faster. Arctic Cat recommends that the ski wear bars be
replaced if worn to 1/2 of original diameter.
REMOVING
1. Raise the front of the snowmobile and secure with a
suitable stand.
2. Remove the lock nuts securing the wear bar to the
ski; then remove the wear bar.
INSTALLING
1. Install the wear bar into the ski making sure it is fully
seated using a rubber mallet.
2. Secure the wear bar with lock nuts. Tighten to 96 in.lb.
Spindle
REMOVING
INSPECTING
1. Inspect the spindle for excessive wear, cracks, bends,
or imperfections.
2. Inspect the A-arm bushings and axle area for wear.
3. Inspect the ski spindle axle and bearings for wear,
damage, or loose fit. Replace the bearings as a set.
NOTE: Replacing the ski bolt bushings is difficult.
The existing bushings will be damaged during
removal. Be careful, however, not to damage the spindle when removing the bushings. Press the new
bushings into the spindle.
INSTALLING
0747-904
1. Place the shock absorber into position on the spindle.
Secure with the cap screw and lock nut. Tighten to
32 ft-lb.
2. Install the upper and lower A-arms into the spindle;
then remove the snowmobile from the support stand.
Secure with new lock nuts. Tighten to 45 ft-lb.
0747-904
1. Position the front of the snowmobile on a safety
stand; then remove the ski.
2. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the
shock absorber to the spindle.
3. Remove the lock nut securing the tie rod to the spindle arm. Account for the washer on the top side.
4. Remove the two lock nuts securing the spindle to the
upper and lower A-arms; then using a rubber mallet,
remove the arms from the spindle.
5. Remove the spindle.
NOTE: The weight of the snowmobile will allow the
ball joints to seat into the spindle before tightening
the nuts.
3. Place the tie rod with washer into position on the
spindle arm. Secure with a new lock nut. Tighten to
32 ft-lb.
4. Install the ski.
5. Turn the handlebar fully to the right and then to the
left to verify the steering moves freely.
Steering Tie Rod
NOTE: To access the steering arm, the steering tie
rods must be removed.
REMOVING
1. Remove both machine screws and nyloc nuts securing the steering tie rod ends to the steering arm. Discard both nuts.
18
SNO-349
2. Remove the nyloc nuts securing the steering tie rod
ends to the spindle arms. Account for the washers
and discard both nuts.
SNO-353
3. Slide the steering tie rod out of the steering boot and
out of the snowmobile.
4. Remove the screw and lock nut securing the steering
tie rod end to the steering arm. Discard the nut.
SNO-351
NOTE: At this point if the technician’s objective is to
remove the steering arm, the reinforcement bracket
will need to be removed by drilling out the appropriate rivets.
6. Remove all torx-head screws securing the front skid
plate to the chassis; then remove the cap screw and
nut securing the steering arm to the chassis. Account
for two washers and two bushings.
SNO-225A
INSPECTING
1. Inspect the ball joints for damaged threads or wear.
2. Inspect the tie rod for damage, unusual bends, or
wear.
INSTALLING
1. Secure steering arm into position and secure using
the existing cap screw, flat washers, and nut. Tighten
to 96 in.-lb.
SNO-350
5. Remove the lock nut securing the steering tie rod to
the steering post. Discard the nut.
SNO-225A
19
2. Place the steering tie rod into position on the steering
post. Secure with a new nyloc nut. Tighten to 35 ftlb.
SNO-349
SNO-351
NOTE: Make sure the tie rod tab is fully seated into
the steering post and threads of the ball joint are
above the nut when tightened correctly.
3. Place the tie rod end into position on the steering tie
rod bracket. Secure with a new nyloc nut. Tighten to
20 ft-lb.
SNO-350
4. Slide the steering tie rod through the steering boot
and into the snowmobile; then place the steering tie
rod into the spindle arm with the washer. Secure
with a new nyloc nut. Tighten to 32 ft-lb.
Ski Alignment
CHECKING
NOTE: Track tension and alignment must be prop-
erly adjusted prior to checking or adjusting ski alignment. Ski alignment must be performed on a flat,
level surface. Ski toe-out must fall within the range of
1/16-1/4 in.
1. Raise the front end of snowmobile just high enough
to keep the skis from contacting the floor.
2. Turn the handlebar to the straight-ahead position.
Visually inspect the handlebar for being centered and
in the straight-ahead position.
3. With the handlebar in the straight-ahead position,
secure the handlebar to prevent the alignment from
becoming disturbed during the remainder of the
alignment procedure.
NOTE: Track tension and alignment must be prop-
erly adjusted prior to placing the straightedge against
the outside edge of the track.
4. Place a long straightedge against the outside edge of
the track so it lies near the inside edge of the left-side
ski.
NOTE: The straightedge should be long enough to
extend from the back of the track to the front of the
ski.
SNO-353
5. Secure the steering tie rod to the steering tie rod
bracket with the screw and new nyloc nut. Tighten to
20 ft-lb.
20
5. Measure the distance from the straightedge to the
left-side ski wear bar bolts in two places: approximately 7-8 in. in front of the spindle and 7-8 in.
behind the spindle. Record the measurements taken
for the left side.
729-887A
0734-408
6. Place the straightedge against the outside edge of the
track so it lies near the inside edge of the right-side
ski.
7. Measure the distance from the straightedge to the
right-side ski wear bar bolts in two places: 7-8 in. in
front of the spindle and 7-8 in. behind the spindle.
Record the measurements taken for the right side.
! WARNING
The measurement from the front and rear wear bar
bolts to the straightedge can be equal (ski parallel to
the track), but the front measurement must never be
less (ski toed-in) or poor handling will be experienced.
The front wear bar bolt measurement to the straightedge must not exceed the measurement from the rear
wear bar bolt to the straightedge (ski toed-out) by
more than 5/32 in.
8. If ski alignment is not as specified, adjust the alignment of the ski(s) not parallel to the straightedge.
ADJUSTING
NOTE: The following procedure can be used to
adjust the alignment of either ski.
NOTE: The rivets securing the steering boots will
have to be removed in order to adjust the inner tie rod
ends.
VERIFYING
1. With the handlebar in the straight-ahead position,
verify ski alignment by measuring across from the
outside edge of the left-side wear bar bolts to the outside edge of the right-side wear bar bolts (without
using the straightedge) in two places: approximately
7-8 in. in front of the spindle and 7-8 in. behind the
spindle.
2. The measurement from in front of the spindle to the
outer edge of the wear bar bolts (without using the
straightedge) must not exceed the rear measurement
by more than 1/16-1/4 in. toe-out.
0734-408
! WARNING
The measurement taken in front of the spindle must never
be less than the measurement taken behind the spindle or
poor handling will be experienced. Neglecting to lock the
tie rod by tightening the jam nuts may cause loss of snowmobile control and possible personal injury.
A-Arms
REMOVING
NOTE: On the 9000, the front bumper must be
removed.
1. Secure the steering tie rod in the centered position.
2. Loosen both spindle tie rod jam nuts on the same
side as the ski to be aligned.
3. Using a wrench on the spindle tie rod “flats,” rotate
the spindle tie rod until recommended specification
is attained.
4. Apply blue Loctite #243 to each jam nut thread area;
then tighten the jam nuts against the spindle tie rod.
NOTE: Repeat this procedure on each side (if nec-
essary) until ski toe-out is within specification.
! WARNING
Neglecting to lock the tie rod by tightening the jam
nuts may cause loss of snowmobile control and possible personal injury.
1. Elevate the front of the snowmobile and secure using
a suitable support stand.
2. Remove the push rivets securing the steering boot to the
chassis; then slide the boot away from the snowmobile.
3. Remove the torx-head screws securing the front skid
plate to the chassis; then remove the front skid plate.
4. Remove the ski shock absorber.
5. Remove the two lock nuts securing the spindle to the
A-arms; then using a rubber mallet, remove the arms
from the spindle. Discard the nuts.
21
SNO-354
6. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the sway
bar link to the lower arm. Discard the nut.
INSTALLING
1. Place the upper arm into position on the chassis and
secure with the cap screws and new nyloc nuts.
Tighten to 23 ft-lb.
2. Slide the lower arm into the boot; then place the arm
into position on the chassis. Secure with the cap
screws and new nyloc nuts and tighten to 55 ft-lb
(front) and 45 ft-lb (rear).
SNO-226A
3. Secure the sway bar link to the lower arm with the
cap screw and new nyloc nut. Tighten to 23 ft-lb.
XM135
7. Remove the two cap screws and nyloc nuts securing
the lower arm to the chassis; then slide the boot from
the arm and remove the arm.
SNO-226A
8. Remove the two cap screws and lock nuts securing
the upper arm to the chassis. Discard the nuts.
INSPECTING
1. Inspect the arm welded areas for cracks or any signs
of deterioration.
2. Inspect the bearings and axles for wear or damage.
3. Inspect the arm tubing for signs of twisting or bending.
4. Inspect mounting location of the chassis for cracks or
wear.
XM135
4. Secure the A-arms to the spindle.
5. Install the ski shock absorber.
6. Place the front skid plate into position; then secure
with the torx-head screws.
NOTE: On the 9000, install the front bumper.
Ski Shock Absorber
REMOVING
1. Position the front of the snowmobile on a safety
stand taking all pressure off the skis.
2. Remove the cap screws securing the shock absorber
to the chassis and spindle; then remove the shock
absorber. Account for all mounting hardware.
NOTE: Note the number of threads exposed
between the spring adjuster and shock housing for
installing purposes.
22
3. Using the Shock Spring Removal Tool, remove the
spring from the shock body by compressing the
spring; then remove the spring retainer from the top
of the spring. Inspect the shock absorber by quickly
compressing and extending the shock plunger while
firmly holding the shock body. Resistance must be
felt in both directions.
CLEANING AND INSPECTING
1. Inspect the shock absorber seal area for signs of
excessive oil leakage.
2. Inspect the shock absorber mounting eyelet, bushings, and sleeve for wear or damage.
3. Inspect the threaded shock sleeve for damage or
wear. Clean the sleeve and apply a light coat of
grease to the threads before installing.
INSTALLING
1. Using the shock spring tool, place the spring on the
shock absorber and secure with the retainer.
2. Adjust the retainer nut (spring adjuster) (if applicable) until the specified amount of threads are
exposed between the spring adjuster and the shock
housing (noted in removing) as an initial setting.
3. Install the bushings, sleeves, and spacers into each
shock end; then place the shock absorber into position and secure with the cap screws and lock nuts.
Tighten the lock nuts to 32 ft-lb.
Sway Bar
REMOVING
1. Remove the nyloc nuts and cap screws securing the
sway bar link to the lower A-arm and the sway bar.
INSTALLING
1. Place the sway bar into the sway bar mounting
brackets; then install the sway bar into the snowmobile. Secure with the torx-head screws and tighten to
96 in.-lb.
2. Secure the sway bar links to the sway bar and lower
A-arm with the cap screws and new nyloc nuts.
Tighten to 23 ft-lb.
XM135
Front Bumper
REMOVING/INSTALLING
1. Remove all torx-head screws securing the front bumper; then remove the bumper.
2. With the bumper in position, install all torx-head
screws. Tighten securely.
Seat Assembly
XM135
2. Remove the torx-head screws securing the sway bar
mounting brackets; then pull the sway bar out of the
snowmobile.
INSPECTING
1. Inspect the sway bar for any signs of twisting,
fatigue, or wear.
2. Inspect the sway bar arms for cracks or damage.
3. Inspect the links, bushings, bushing retainers, and
hardware for damage or wear.
ZR/XF/M
NOTE: On models with heated seats, be sure to dis-
connect the seat heater harness before removing the
seat.
1. Remove the cap screw securing the rear of the seat;
then remove the seat.
SNO-261A
2. Route the front tab on the seat through the seat-base
hold-down bracket; then install the seat and secure
using the cap screw.
23
SNO-227A
NOTE: On models with heated seats prior to lower-
ing and securing the seat, connect the seat heater
harness connector.
PANTERA
1. Lift up both seat latches and hold them in that position; then lift
and remove the passenger seat. Make
sure to disconnect the accessory harness.
0748-449
2. Release the lever securing the operator seat; then lift
up and remove the front seat. Make sure to disconnect the seat heater harness. Remove the operator
seat.
SNO-454A
NOTE: Be sure to connect the accessory harness.
Seat Cushion
REMOVING
1. Remove the seat assembly.
2. Using a sharp tool, pry out all staples securing the
seat cover to the plastic seat base.
3. From beneath the seat foam, remove the seat wire
from the two elastic loops; then remove the cover
from the seat base and seat foam.
INSTALLING
1. Position the cover over the seat foam and seat base;
then pull the two elastic loops through the slots in the
seat foam and secure with the seat wire. Check to
make sure it is positioned straight.
2. Fold the rear edge of the cushion down and around
the plastic base. Using a staple gun and 1/4 in. staples, staple the rear flap of the cushion to the plastic
base in the same areas as the original staples were
located. Position staples 1 in. apart.
3. Fold the sides of the cushion down around the bottom edge of the plastic seat base. Position the staples
in the same area as the original staples were located.
NOTE: Note the cushion fit. If any wrinkles are
noted, remove by pulling the cushion material in the
appropriate direction before securing with staples.
0748-419
3. To install the operator seat, route the front tab on the
operator seat through the seat-base hold-down
bracket; then secure the rear of the operator seat
using the lever.
4. To install the passenger seat, position the front of the
seat base tabs under the loops in the seat frame; then
press down and secure using the two seat latches.
24
4. Fold the front cushion material back and onto the
plastic seat base. Check for wrinkles and secure with
staples and two screws.
5. Install the seat assembly.
Taillight/Brakelight
Assembly
ZR/XF/M
1. Remove the two machine screws securing the taillight to the taillight support; then disconnect the taillight harness connector.
SNO-511
2. Connect the taillight harness connector; then secure
the taillight to the taillight support with the two
machine screws. Tighten to 48 in.-lb.
PANTERA
1. Remove the storage box lid; then remove the
machine screws securing the taillight to the rear rack
facia. Disconnect the taillight harness connector.
INSTALLING BUMPER
1. Align the holes in the bumper with the existing holes
in the tunnel; then using new rivets, secure rear bumper to the tunnel; then secure the snowflap to the rear
bumper using new rivets.
2. Secure the front of the bumper to the chassis using
the existing machine screws and nuts. Tighten
securely.
3. Install skid frame assembly using two existing
machine screws. Tighten securely.
REMOVING SNOWFLAP
1. Drill out the rivets securing the snowflap to the tunnel; then remove the snowflap.
INSTALLING SNOWFLAP
1. Secure the snowflap to the tunnel using the appropriate rivets.
Windshield/Console/
Headlight
REMOVING (5000/9000)
1. Remove and retain all machine screws securing the
hood; then disconnect the console harness and carefully remove the hood assembly.
XM098
2. Connect the taillight harness connector; then secure
the taillight to the rear rack facia with the screws.
Tighten to 48 in.-lb. Install the storage box lid.
Rear Bumper/Snowflap
REMOVING BUMPER
1. Remove and retain only the two machine screws
securing the rear of the skid frame assembly.
2. Place cardboard or a suitable substitute on the floor
to protect the snowmobile from being scratched; then
install Steering Post Stand for the standard steering
models or Handlebar Stand for the adjustable steering models into the lower holes in the handlebar riser
(from the left-side) and tip the snowmobile onto its
left side.
3. Swing the skid frame assembly away from the chassis; then using a 3/16-in. drill bit, remove all rivets
securing the left-side of the bumper; then repeat for
opposite side.
2. Remove the four screws securing the windshield to
the console; then remove the windshield.
3. Remove the four screws securing the windshield
brace to the console. Disconnect the gauge; then
remove the windshield brace assembly.
PC104A
4. Disconnect the electrical accessory wires and ignition switch.
5. Remove the two screws securing the rear of the console to the hood.
6. Lift the front of the console from the headlight
assembly; then disengage the side console tabs and
remove the console.
4. Remove and retain the two machine screws and nuts
securing the front of the existing bumper to the chassis.
5. Remove the two rivets securing the snowflap to the
bumper. Remove the bumper.
25
PC108
PC106A
7. Loosen the two side headlight assembly screws (A);
then remove the two front headlight assembly screws
(B).
YM-028A
4. Disconnect the gauge, electrical accessory wires, and
the ignition switch.
5. Remove the two screws securing the rear of the console to the hood (on the underside of the hood).
6. Loosen the two side headlight assembly screws; then
remove the two front headlight assembly screws.
YM-029A
7. Remove the headlight assembly.
INSTALLING
1. With the headlight assembly in position, install the
front headlight assembly screws. Engage the side
headlight screws in the slots and tighten until snug.
PC107A
8. Remove the headlight assembly.
REMOVING (7000)
1. Remove and retain all machine screws securing the
hood; then disconnect the console harness and
remove the hood assembly.
2. Remove the eight screws securing the windshield to
the console; then remove the windshield.
3. Remove the four screws securing the console.
26
2. Engage the side console tabs on the headlight assembly; then place the front of the console over the headlight assembly and press down until it snaps in place.
3. Install the two screws securing the rear of the console to the hood. Tighten only until snug.
4. Place the windshield brace assembly into position
and secure to the console with the four screws.
Tighten until snug.
5. Connect the gauge; then connect the electrical accessory wires and the ignition switch.
6. With the windshield in position, secure the windshield to the frame using the four screws. Tighten
securely.
7. Connect the console harness; then install the hood
assembly and secure with the screws.
Headlight Bulb
Adjusting Headlight Aim
NOTE: The bulb portion of the headlight is fragile.
HANDLE WITH CARE. When replacing the headlight
bulb, the bulb assembly must first be removed from
the housing. Do not touch the glass portion of the
bulb. If the glass is touched, it must be cleaned with a
dry cloth before installing.
1. Disconnect the headlight harness connector from the
bulb; then remove the rubber grommet from the
headlight housing.
2. Rotate the bulb retainer counterclockwise until it
unlocks from the housing; then remove the bulb.
0746-096
3. Install the bulb and retainer; then rotate the retainer
clockwise until it properly locks in place.
4. Install the rubber grommet; then connect the headlight harness connector to the bulb.
The headlight can be adjusted for vertical aim of the
HIGH/LOW beam. The geometric center of HIGH beam
zone is to be used for vertical aiming.
1. Position the snowmobile on a level floor so the headlight is approximately 25 ft from an aiming surface
(wall or similar surface).
NOTE: There should be an “average” operating load
on the snowmobile when adjusting headlight aim.
2. Measure the distance from the floor to midpoint of
the headlight.
3. Using the measurement obtained in step 2, make a
horizontal mark on the aiming surface.
4. Make a vertical mark intersecting the horizontal
mark on the aiming surface directly in front of the
headlight.
5. Engage the brake lever lock and start the engine.
Select the headlight dimmer switch HIGH beam
position. DO NOT USE LOW BEAM.
6. Observe the headlight beam aim. Proper aim is when
the most intense beam is centered on the vertical
mark 5 cm (2 in.) below the horizontal mark on the
aiming surface.
7. Adjust the headlight using the adjusting screw on the
backside of the headlight housing until correct aim is
obtained. Shut the engine off; then disengage the
brake lever lock.
5. Check headlight aim (see Adjusting Headlight Aim
in this sub-section).
! WARNING
Do not operate the snowmobile unless headlight beam
is adjusted properly. An incorrectly adjusted beam will
not provide the operator the optimum amount of light.
0746-807
27
Engine
5000
9000
NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,
cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is necessary.
SPECIAL TOOLS
A number of special tools must be available to the technician
when performing service procedures in this engine section.
Descriptionp/n
Drive Clutch Bolt Tool
Drive Clutch Puller
Drive Clutch Spanner Wrench
Engine Lift Plate
Hood Harness Extension
NOTE: Special tools are available from the Arctic
Cat Service Parts Department.
CAUTION
Never attempt to substitute any other drive clutch puller
for the recommended puller or severe clutch or crankshaft damage will occur.
0644-281
0744-062
0644-136
0744-073
1686-659
0746-791A
Engine Removing
Installing - 5000/9000
This engine sub-section has been organized to show a progression for the removing/installing of the Arctic Cat 1100
cc engine. For consistency purposes, this sub-section shows
a complete and thorough progression; however, for efficiency it may be preferable to remove only those components needing to be addressed. Also, some components
may vary from model to model. The technician should use
discretion and sound judgment.
Removing
NOTE: Prior to removing the engine, disconnect the
hood harness and the air intake connector from the
air silencer; then remove the cables and pins securing the hood to the front end, remove the hood, and
remove the access panels.
0746-800
NOTE: At this point if the technician’s objective is to
service Top-Side Components, the engine does not
have to be removed from the chassis. Proceed to Servicing Top-Side Components.
1. Remove the seat; then disconnect the battery cables
(negative cable first) and solenoid harness.
NOTE: On the LXR/LTD models, disconnect the seat
heater harness connector.
2. Remove the retaining nut from the neck of the gas
tank and the two screws securing the upper console
and disconnect the wires from the reverse alarm;
then loosen the quarter turn screws securing the
lower console to the skid plate and remove both
upper and lower consoles.
NOTE: On the LXR/LTD models, disconnect the seat
heater harness from the seat heater switch.
3. Remove the gas tank (see the Fuel Systems section).
4. Disconnect the two harness connectors from the
ECM; then remove the ECM.
0746-792A
28
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