FOX Air Shocks................................................................. 128
1
General
Information/Foreword
NOTE: General specifications for each 2017 Arctic
Cat Snowmobile can be accessed from the Arctic Cat
Cat Tracker Dealer Communication System online.
NOTE: Some illustrations and photographs used in
this manual are used for clarity purposes only and are
not designed to depict actual conditions.
This Arctic Cat Service Manual contains service and
maintenance information for certain Model Year 2017
Arctic Cat Snowmobiles (see cover). The manual is
designed to aid service personnel in service-oriented
applications.
This manual is divided into sections. The sections cover
specific snowmobile components or systems and, in
addition to the standard service procedures, includes
assembling, disassembling, and inspecting instructions.
When using this manual as a guide, the technician should
use discretion as to how much disassembly is needed to
correct any given condition.
The service technician should become familiar with the
operation and construction of the components or systems
by carefully studying the complete manual. This will
assist the service technician in becoming more aware of
and efficient with servicing procedures. Such efficiency
not only helps build consumer confidence but also saves
time and labor.
All Arctic Cat publications and snowmobile decals display the words Warning, Caution, and Note to emphasize
important information. The symbol ! WARNING
identifies personal safety-related information. Be sure to
follow the directive because it deals with the possibility
of severe personal injury or even death. A CAUTION
identifies unsafe practices which may result in snowmobile-related damage. Follow the directive because it deals
with the possibility of damaging part or parts of the
snowmobile. The symbol NOTE: identifies supple-
mentary information worthy of particular attention.
At the time of publication, all information, photographs,
and illustrations were technically correct. Some photographs and illustrations used in this manual are used for
clarity purposes only and are not designed to depict
actual conditions. Because Arctic Cat Inc. constantly
refines and improves its products, no retroactive obligation is incurred.
Snowmobile Identification
The Arctic Cat Snowmobile has two important identification numbers. The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
is stamped into the tunnel near the right-side footrest or
on top of the tunnel. The decal also displays pertinent
production information. The Engine Serial Number
(ESN) is stamped into the crankcase of the engine.
These numbers are required to complete warranty claims
properly. No warranty will be allowed by Arctic Cat if
the engine serial number or VIN is removed or mutilated
in any way.
Recommended Gasoline
and Oil
CAUTION
Do not use white gas or gasoline containing methanol.
Only Arctic Cat approved gasoline additives should be
used.
CAUTION
Any oil used in place of the recommended oil may
cause serious damage.
RECOMMENDED GASOLINE
The recommended gasoline to use in these snowmobiles
is 91 octane (minimum).
NOTE: If a situation arises in which 91 octane gaso-
line is not available, 87 octane gasoline can be substituted; however, do not prolong the usage of 87 octane
gasoline as it will cause poor engine performance.
In many areas, oxygenates are added to the gasoline.
Oxygenated gasolines containing up to 10% ethanol are
acceptable gasolines. Do not use gasolines containing
methanol.
RECOMMENDED OIL
The recommended oil to use is Synthetic C-TEC4 Oil
(p/n 6639-529 - gal.).
After the engine break-in period, the engine oil and oil
filter should be changed every 2500 miles or before prolonged storage.
All materials and specifications are subject to change
without notice.
Keep this manual accessible in the shop area for reference.
Product Service and Warranty Department
Arctic Cat Inc.
2
Engine Break-In
The engine (when new or rebuilt) requires a short
break-in period before the engine is subjected to heavy
load conditions.
This engine does not require any pre-mixed fuel during
the break-in period.
There is never a more important period in the life of the
engine than the first 500 km (300 miles).
Since the engine is brand new, do not put an excessive
load on it for the first 500 km (300 miles). The various
parts in the engine wear and polish themselves to the correct operating clearances. During this period, prolonged
full throttle operation or any condition that might result
in engine overheating must be avoided.
Operating your snowmobile for the first time: Start the
engine and let it idle for 5 minutes.
0-160 km (0–100 miles): Avoid prolonged operation
above 6000 RPM.
160-500 km (100–300 miles): Avoid prolonged operation
above 8000 RPM.
500 km (300 miles) and beyond: The snowmobile can
now be operated normally.
NOTE: After 800 km (500 miles) of operation, the
engine oil must be changed and the oil filter replaced.
If any engine trouble should occur during the engine
break-in period, immediately have an Arctic Cat
dealer check the snowmobile.
Drive Belt Break-In
2. Clean the snowmobile thoroughly by hosing dirt, oil,
grass, and other foreign matter from the skid frame,
tunnel, hood, and belly pan. Allow the snowmobile
to dry thoroughly. DO NOT get water into any part
of the engine.
3. Change the engine oil and replace the air filter if necessary.
4. Fill the gas tank to its rated capacity; then add Arctic
Cat Fuel Stabilizer to the gas tank following directions on the container for the stabilizer/gasoline
ratio. Tighten the gas tank cap securely.
5. With the snowmobile level, check the lubricant level
in the chain case. If low, add chain lube through the
fill hole (when the reverse actuator is removed).
6. Remove the drive belt from the drive clutch/driven
clutch. Lay the belt on a flat surface or slide it into a
cardboard sleeve to prevent warping or distortion
during storage; then clean and inspect the drive
clutch and driven clutch.
7. Apply light oil to the upper steering post bushings
and to the shafts of the shock absorbers; then lubricate the rear suspension with an all-temperature
grease.
Drive belts require a break-in period of 25 miles. Drive
the snowmobile for 25 miles at 3/4 throttle or less. By
revving the engine up and down (but not exceeding 60
mph), the exposed cord on the side of a new belt will be
worn down. This will allow the drive belt to gain its optimum flexibility and will extend drive belt life.
NOTE: Before starting the snowmobile in extremely
cold temperatures, the drive belt should be removed
and warmed up to room temperature. Once the drive
belt is at room temperature, install the drive belt (see
Drive Belt sub-section in the Drive Train/Track/Brake
Systems section of this manual).
CAUTION
Running the engine with the drive belt removed could
result in serious engine damage and drive clutch failure.
Genuine Parts
When replacement of parts is necessary, use only genuine
Arctic Cat parts. They are precision-made to ensure high
quality and correct fit.
Preparation For Storage
Prior to storing the snowmobile, it must be properly serviced to prevent corrosion and component deterioration.
8. Tighten all nuts, bolts, and cap screws making sure
all calibrated nuts, bolts, and cap screws are tightened to specifications. Make sure all rivets holding
the components together are tight. Replace all loose
rivets.
9. Clean and polish the hood, console, and chassis with
Cat Cleaner. DO NOT USE SOLVENTS. THE PROPELLENT WILL DAMAGE THE FINISH.
10. Disconnect the battery cables making sure to disconnect the negative cable first; then clean the battery
posts and cables.
CAUTION
Sealed batteries require charging if left for extended
non-start periods. Arctic Cat recommends trickle
charging once a month. Follow the manufacturer’s
instructions and cautions.
CAUTION
On models with remote start, make sure to leave the
battery cables disconnected. Failure to disconnect the
battery cables when storing the snowmobile for a prolonged period of time (six weeks or more) will result in a
discharged or damaged battery.
11. If possible, store the snowmobile indoors. Raise the
track off the floor by blocking up the back end making sure the snowmobile is secure. Loosen the track
adjusting bolts to reduce track tension. Cover the
snowmobile with a machine cover or a heavy, ventilated tarpaulin to protect it from dirt and dust.
1. Clean the seat cushion with a damp cloth and Arctic
Cat Vinyl Protectant.
3
12. If the snowmobile must be stored outdoors, position
the snowmobile out of direct sunlight; then block the
entire snowmobile off the ground making sure the
snowmobile is secure. Loosen the track adjusting
bolts to reduce track tension. Cover with a machine
cover or a heavy, ventilated tarpaulin to protect it
from dirt, dust, and rain.
CAUTION
Avoid storing in direct sunlight and using a plastic
cover as moisture may collect on the snowmobile causing corrosion.
10. Inspect the entire brake system, all controls, headlight, taillight, brake light, ski wear bars, and headlight aim; adjust or replace as necessary.
11. Adjust the track to the proper tension and alignment.
After Break-In
Checkup/Checklist
Certain areas require adjustment after the break-in period
in order to obtain peak performance. These areas are the
following.
Preparation After Storage
Taking the snowmobile out of storage and correctly preparing it for another season will assure many miles and
hours of trouble-free snowmobiling. Arctic Cat recommends the following procedure:
1. Clean the snowmobile thoroughly. Polish the exterior
of the snowmobile.
2. Clean the engine. Check exhaust system and air
silencer for obstructions.
3. Inspect all control wires and cables for signs of wear
or fraying. Replace if necessary. Use cable ties or
tape to route wires and cables away from hot or rotating parts.
4. Inspect the drive belt for cracks and tears. Check belt
specifications. Replace if damaged or worn. Install
the drive belt (see the Drive Train/Track/Brake Systems section).
NOTE: If the old belt is worn but in reasonable con-
dition, retain it with the snowmobile as a spare in case
of emergency.
5. Adjust the throttle cable. Inspect all fuel hoses and
oil hoses for deterioration or cracks; replace if necessary. Make sure all connections are tight.
6. Tighten all nuts, bolts, and cap screws making sure
all calibrated nuts, bolts, and cap screws are tightened to specifications.
7. If not done during preparation for storage, lubricate
the rear suspension with an all-temperature grease.
8. Check the coolant level and all coolant hoses and
connections for deterioration or cracks. Add properly
mixed coolant as necessary.
9. Charge the battery; then connect the battery cables
making sure to connect the positive cable first. Test
the electric start system.
DRIVE CLUTCH/DRIVEN CLUTCH
ALIGNMENT — The alignment between the drive
clutch and driven clutch are set at the factory. Normally,
no adjustment is necessary; however, if premature drive
belt wear or poor performance is experienced, the drive
clutch/driven clutch alignment must be checked.
TRACK TENSION AND ALIGNMENT — A certain
amount of stretch occurs on all tracks during the first 500
miles. The track must be inspected/adjusted after the first
50 to 100 miles to the specifications given in the Track
Specifications sub-section of this section and periodically
thereafter. If these adjustments aren’t performed, the
track may “derail” which leads to track and slide rail
damage.
Along with these major areas, other areas should be
checked and adjusted.
Below is a list of items to check after the break-in period.
The recommended mileage for this inspection is between
100 and 300 miles.
Check steering hardware for tightness
Check skid frame and A-arm mounting hardware
for tightness
Check brake lever travel and adjustment
Grease all lubrication points
4
Engine Specifications
ITEM
Engine Model Number8KJ
Displacement 998 cc
Compression Ratio9.0:1
Bore x Stroke80.0 x 66.2 mm (3.15 × 2.61”)
Cooling SystemLiquid
Spark Plug (NGK)CR8E
Spark Plug Gap0.71-0.79 mm (0.028-0.031”)
Piston Skirt/Cylinder Clearance 0.036-0.061 mm
Piston Pin Diameter 20.990-20.995 mm
Piston Pin Bore Diameter 21.004-21.015 mm
Piston Pin to Piston Pin Bore Clearance0.009-0.025 mm
Connecting Rod: Small End Diameter21.005-21.027 mm
Crankshaft Pin/Connecting Rod Big End
Clearance
Connecting rod: Big End Diameter41.000-41.018 mm
Piston Ring End Gap(Top)
(2nd)
(Oil)
Piston Ring/(1st - Top)
Groove Clearance(2nd)
Piston Diameter
(10 mm from bottom edge)
(Oil)
(0.0014-0.0024”)
(0.8264-0.8266”)
(0.8269-0.8274”)
(0.0003-0.0009”)
(0.8269-0.8278”)
0.030-0.048 mm
(0.0012-0.0019”)
(1.6142-1.6149”)
0.35-0.45 mm (0.014-0.018”)
0.75-0.85 mm (0.030-0.033”)
0.10-0.35 mm (0.004-0.014”)
0.030-0.065 mm
(0.0012-0.0026”)
0.020-0.055 mm
(0.0008-0.0022”)
0.040-0.140 mm
(0.0016-0.0055”)
79.95-79.96 mm
(3.1476-3.1480”)
Cam Lobe Height (Intake)33.750-33.850 mm
Cam Lobe Height (Exhaust)33.750-33.850 mm
Cam Lobe Width (Intake)24.950-25.050 mm
Cam Lobe Width (Exhaust)24.950-25.050 mm
Camshaft Journal Diameter24.46-24.47 mm
Camshaft Journal Clearance0.028-0.062 mm
Crank Pin Diameter37.976-38.000 mm
Crankshaft Runout (max)0.3 mm (0.012”)
Crankshaft Main Bearing Clearance0.027-0.045 mm
Crankshaft/Rod Bearing Clearance0.030-0.048 mm
Valve Stem Diameter (Intake)4.475-4.490 mm
Valve Stem Diameter (Exhaust)4.460-4.475 mm
Valve Guide Inside Diameter (Intake)4.500-4.512 mm
Valve Guide Inside Diameter (Exhaust)4.500-4.512 mm
Valve Guide/Stem Clearance (Intake)0.010-0.037 mm
Valve Guide/Stem Clearance (Exhaust)0.025-0.052 mm
Valve Face Width (Intake)0.90-1.10 mm (0.035-0.043”)
Valve Face Width (Exhaust)0.90-1.10 mm (0.035-0.043”)
VALVE TIMING (below)
Intake Open (BTDC)35.0 degrees
Intake Closed (ABDC)45.0 degrees
Exhaust Open (BBDC)45.0 degrees
Exhaust Closed (ATDC)35.0 degrees
Valve Overlap70.0 degrees
(1.3287-1.3327”)
(1.3287-1.3327”)
(0.9823-0.9862”)
(0.9823-0.9862”)
(0.9630-0.9635”)
(0.0011-0.0024”)
(1.4951-1.4961”)
(0.0011-0.0018”)
(0.0012-0.0019”)
(0.1762-0.1677”)
(0.1756-0.1762”)
(0.1772-0.1776”)
(0.1772-0.1776”)
(0.0004-0.0015”)
(0.0010-0.0020”)
Electrical Specifications
ComponentTest Value + Test Connections -
(Normally Closed Ignition)
Magneto Coil (3 tests)*0.15-0.23 ohmwhitewhite
Primary Ignition Coil*1.19-1.61 ohms
Secondary Ignition Coil*8.5k-11.5k ohms
Crankshaft Position Sensor336-504 ohmslight graydark gray
Voltage Regulator/Rectifier**12-14.5 DC Voltsterminalterminal
Magneto Coil (no load)36-44 AC Voltswhitewhite
Ignition SwitchLess than 1 ohm (key in ON position)terminalterminal
* Harness plugged in
NOTE: Lighting coil output is unregulated voltage.
! WARNING
Most voltages generated by the ignition system are sufficient to interrupt pacemakers! All technicians, especially those using pacemakers, must avoid contact with
all electrical connections.
M 9000 King Cat120/285 lbJ14-74g155-220 lb58-49-.150627-1044-4200875021T52T98
Drive Clutch
Spring
Cam Arm
Driven Clutch
Spring
Torque
Bracket
Drive
Belt
Engagement
RPM
Peak
RPM
Top
Gear
Bottom
Gear
Chain
Pitch
Drive Clutch/Driven
Clutch-Related
Specifications
ALIGNMENT BAR
CENTER-TO-CENTEROFFSETFLOAT
10.38” ± 0.020”1.560”None
Drive System Components
A list of Drive System components that are available
through the Arctic Cat Service Parts Department can be
found in the Quick Reference Guide. This information
will be useful when doing any fine-tuning on the drive
system.
Carefully matching the riding requirements to the type of
track will ensure the maximum use of all available engine
power. Lug height and track durometer are the two main
concerns when selecting a track for various riding styles.
Tracks exist with lug heights from 1.0” up to 3.0” to
accommodate various snow conditions. Generally, the
deeper the snow, the taller the lug. It must be noted that
the installation of any deep-lug track may reduce top end
speed and promote premature wear strip wear in marginal
snow conditions.
Durometer is a measurement of how hard a rubber is. The
lugs on most tracks range between 60 and 80 durometer.
On the durometer scale, the higher the number, the harder
the lugs. For riding in deep powder snow, a softer durometer track works best. The softer rubber allows the track
to “give” a little and pack the snow creating lift rather
than digging its way straight down. When hill-climbing,
the harder lug of an 80 durometer track works the best
due to penetrating the hard snow creating more bite.
Some tracks come with a dual durometer rating, such as a
track with a 80/60 durometer rating. The lugs on this
track are 80% 80 durometer rubber, and the top 20% is
made of the softer 60 durometer rubber. This track is
designed to be a good all-around track for riding mostly
in deep powder snow but can climb the occasional hard
snow hill.
ModelLengthLug Height
ZR129/137”1.25”
XF137”1.25”
XF High Country141/153”1.75”
M 9000 King Cat162”3.0”
NOTE: The track tension on all models should be
2-in. at 20 lb.
ft-lbN-mft-lbN-mft-lbN-mft-lbN-m
11.42635.45169.476103.4
22.72736.75270.777104.7
34.12838.15372.178106.1
45.42939.45473.479107.4
56.83040.85574.880108.8
68.23142.25676.281110.2
79.53243.55777.582111.5
810.93344.95878.983112.9
912.23446.25980.284114.2
1013.63547.66081.685115.6
11153649618386117
1216.33750.36284.387118.3
1317.73851.76385.788119.7
14193953648789121
1520.44054.46588.490122.4
1621.84155.86689.891123.8
1723.14257.16791.192125.1
1824.54358.56892.593126.5
1925.84459.86993.894127.8
2027.24561.27095.295129.2
2128.64662.67196.696130.6
2229.94763.97297.997131.9
2331.34865.37399.398133.3
2432.64966.674100.699134.6
2534506875102100136
9
Torque Specifications
NOTE: Torque specifications have the following tol-
erances:
Torque (ft-lb)To le ra nce
0-15±20%
16-39±15%
40+±10%
DRIVE SYSTEM
ItemSecured to
Drive ClutchEngine51****
Drive Clutch CoverMovable Sheave120 in.-lb
Cam Arm Lock NutCam Arm Screw50 in.-lb
Driven ClutchDriven Shaft60
SpiderStationary Sheave450***
Movable SheaveTorque Bracket72 in.-lb
Chain Case (Cap Screw)Chassis96 in.-lb
Chain Case (Torx-Head Screw)Chassis12
Chain Case CoverChain Case12
Shift ActuatorChain Case Cover36 in.-lb
Brake CaliperChassis25**
Outside Caliper HousingInside Caliper Housing25
BrakelineCaliper25
BrakelineMaster Cylinder25
Brake CaliperShield Cover96 in.-lb**
STEERING/FRONT SUSPENSION/CHASSIS
ItemSecured to
SkiSpindle35
SkiWearbar8
SkiSki Handle54 in.-lb
Handlebar Adjuster BlockPost15
Steering SupportMounting Block8
Steering Tie Rod LinkSteering Post35
Steering Tie Rod LinkSteering Arm20
Steering Post CapRiser Block15
Steering PostChassis55
Steering Tie RodSteering Arm 20
Tie RodSpindle Arm32
Steering SupportSpar20
Steering ArmChassis8
A-Arm (Upper) (XF HC/M)Chassis9
A-Arm (Upper) (ZR/XF)Chassis23
A-Arm (Lower)Chassis (Front)65
This section has been organized into sub-sections for servicing steering and body components; however, some
components may vary from model to model. The technician should use discretion and sound judgment when
removing and installing components.
NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,
cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is necessary.
SPECIAL TOOLS
A special tool must be available to the technician when
servicing the steering and body systems.
NOTE: When indicated for use, each special tool
will be identified by its specific name, as shown in the
chart below, and capitalized.
Descriptionp/n
Handlebar Stand5639-152
Steering Post Stand5639-946
NOTE: Special tools are available from the Arctic
Cat Service Parts Department.
SNO-763
4. Remove the nut (A) securing the bottom of the existing steering post to the steering stop bracket; then
remove the nut (B) securing the steering tie rod
assembly to the steering post. Discard both nuts.
Steering Post
REMOVING
To remove the access panel and hood, use the following
procedure:
1. Rotate the two quarter turns to the vertical position;
then pull the top of the side panel out and up and off
the skid plate.
2. Disconnect the hood harness on the left-side of the
hood; then loosen the two quarter turns securing the
front of the hood. Pull the hood forward and remove
the hood.
0750-565A
3. Remove the push rivets securing the right-side steering boot to the chassis. This allows access to the two
nuts securing the bottom of the steering post.
SNO-2221A
5. Remove the cap screws and handlebar caps securing
the handlebar to the top of the handlebar riser; then
remove the two torx-head screws and nuts securing
the top of steering post to the chassis. Account for
both steering post blocks and retaining plate.
SNO-357
6. Carefully remove the steering post from the snowmobile.
INSTALLING
1. Install steering post into position and secure to the
steering stop bracket with a new M10 nut. Be sure to
align the steering post ball joint alignment tab
with the steering stop bracket. Tighten to 43 ft-lb.
11
SNO-2218
2. Secure the tie rod assembly to the steering post using
a new M10 nut. Be sure to align the tie rod balljoint alignment tab with the steering post. Tighten
to 35 ft-lb.
SNO-2219
3. Secure the right-side steering boot to the chassis
using the existing push rivets.
Ski (ZR/XF)
REMOVING
1. Elevate the front of the snowmobile and secure on a
support stand.
2. Remove and discard the cotter pin; then remove the
nut and cap screw securing the ski to the spindle.
NOTE: Note the orientation of the damper for
installation purposes.
3. Remove the ski. Account for the rubber damper and
washers.
INSPECTING
1. Inspect the ski for cracks or deterioration.
2. Inspect the ski for abnormal bends or cracks.
3. Inspect the wear bar for wear.
4. Inspect all hardware and the spindle bushings for
wear and damage.
5. Inspect the rubber damper for damage or wear.
INSTALLING
1. Slide a washer onto the cap screw used to secure the
ski; then apply all-temperature grease to the shaft
portion of the cap screw and spindle axle.
2. Install the spindle axle into the spindle; then position
the ski damper into the bottom of the ski making sure
the damper is properly positioned for the desired ski
stance.
SNO-763
4. Secure the top of the steering post to the steering
support using the existing retaining plate, steering
post blocks, and nuts. Make sure the throttle cable is
positioned between the steering post blocks. Tighten
to 8 ft-lb.
5. Install the handlebar riser onto the top of the steering
post and secure using the existing cap screws and
caps. Tighten evenly to 15 ft-lb.
6. Position the hood onto the snowmobile and connect
the hood harness connector and secure the two front
quarter turns.
7. Install the access panels into the skid plates; then
close the access panel and secure with the two quarter turns.
12
0746-796
0746-797
NOTE: The ski damper must be positioned in the
ski so it is directly under the spindle.
3. With the cap screw hole of the ski centered with the
spindle axle, slide the cap screw with washer through
the outside of the ski and spindle assemblies.
NOTE: Local laws and/or regulations as to maxi-
mum width of the ski stance may be applicable.
Always comply with the maximum width laws and/or
regulations when adjusting ski stance.
NOTE: Install the cap screw so the lock nut will be
located to the inside of the ski and the cotter pin slot
in the cap screw will be horizontal with the ski.
4. Install the remaining washer and lock nut; then
tighten the lock nut to 35 ft-lb.
NOTE: Assure that the cotter pin slot in the cap
screw is still horizontal with the ski (see illustration);
then proceed to step 5.
5. Install a new cotter pin from the back side of the ski
cap screw and spread the pin.
0748-903
NOTE: The ski damper must be positioned in the
ski so it is directly under the spindle.
3. With the cap screw hole of the ski centered with the
spindle axle, slide the cap screw with washer through
the outside of the ski and spindle assemblies.
NOTE: Install the cap screw so the lock nut will be
located to the inside of the ski and the cotter pin slot
in the cap screw will be horizontal with the ski.
Ski (XF HC/M)
REMOVING
1. Elevate the front of the snowmobile and secure on a
support stand.
2. Remove and discard the cotter pin; then remove the
nut and cap screw securing the ski to the spindle.
NOTE: Note the orientation of the damper for
installation purposes.
3. Remove the ski. Account for the rubber damper,
axle, spacers and washers.
INSPECTING
1. Inspect the ski for cracks or deterioration.
2. Inspect the ski for abnormal bends or cracks.
3. Inspect the wear bar for wear.
4. Inspect all hardware and the spindle bushings for
wear and damage.
5. Inspect the rubber damper for damage or wear.
INSTALLING
1. Slide a washer onto the cap screw used to secure the
ski; then apply all-temperature grease to the shaft
portion of the cap screw and spindle axle.
4. Install the remaining washer and lock nut; then
tighten the lock nut to 35 ft-lb.
5. Install a new cotter pin from the back side of the ski
cap screw and spread the pin.
Ski Wear Bar
The ski wear bar is a replaceable bar attached to the
underside of the ski. If the snowmobile is operated primarily in deep snow, ski wear bar wear will be minimal;
however, if the snowmobile is operated on terrain where
the snow cover is minimal, the ski wear bar will wear
faster. Arctic Cat recommends that the ski wear bars be
replaced if worn to 1/2 of original diameter.
REMOVING
1. Raise the front of the snowmobile and secure with a
suitable stand.
2. Remove the lock nuts securing the wear bar to the
ski; then remove the wear bar.
INSTALLING
1. Install the wear bar into the ski making sure it is fully
seated using a rubber mallet.
2. Secure the wear bar with lock nuts. Tighten to 8 ft-lb.
2. Install the spindle axle and spacers into the spindle;
then position the ski damper into the bottom of the
ski making sure the damper is properly positioned
for the desired ski stance.
13
Spindle (ZR/XF)
0747-904
REMOVING
1. Position the front of the snowmobile on a safety
stand; then remove the ski.
2. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the
shock absorber to the spindle.
5. Turn the handlebar fully to the right and then to the
left to verify the steering moves freely.
Spindle (XF HC/M)
0749-480
REMOVING
1. Position the front of the snowmobile on a safety
stand; then remove the ski.
3. Remove the lock nut securing the tie rod to the spindle arm. Account for the washer on the top side.
4. Remove the two lock nuts securing the spindle to the
upper and lower A-arms; then using a rubber mallet,
remove the arms from the spindle.
5. Remove the spindle.
INSPECTING
1. Inspect the spindle for excessive wear, cracks, bends,
or imperfections.
2. Inspect the A-arm bushings and axle area for wear.
3. Inspect the ski spindle axle and bearings for wear,
damage, or loose fit. Replace the bearings as a set.
NOTE: Replacing the ski bolt bushings is difficult.
The existing bushings will be damaged during
removal. Be careful, however, not to damage the spindle when removing the bushings. Press the new bushings into the spindle.
INSTALLING
1. Place the shock absorber into position on the spindle.
Secure with the cap screw and lock nut. Tighten to
32 ft-lb.
2. Install the upper and lower A-arms into the spindle;
then remove the snowmobile from the support stand.
Secure with new lock nuts. Tighten to 45 ft-lb.
2. Remove the lock nut securing the tie rod to the spindle arm. Account for the washer on the top side.
3. Remove the machine screw and tri-nut securing the
upper A-arm ball joint to the spindle.
4. Remove two lock nuts securing the spindle to the
lower A-arm; then using a rubber mallet, remove the
lower arm from the spindle.
INSPECTING
1. Inspect the spindle for excessive wear, cracks, bends,
or imperfections.
2. Inspect the A-arm bushings and axle area for wear.
3. Inspect the ski spindle axle and bearings for wear,
damage, or loose fit. Replace the bearings as a set.
NOTE: Replacing the ski bolt bushings is difficult.
The existing bushings will be damaged during
removal. Be careful, however, not to damage the spindle when removing the bushings. Press the new bushings into the spindle.
INSTALLING
1. Install the lower A-arm into the spindle and loosely
secure using a new lock nut.
2. Secure the upper A-arm ball joint to the spindle
using the existing machine screw and tri-nut. Tighten
the machine screw to 23 ft-lb.
NOTE: The weight of the snowmobile will allow the
ball joints to seat into the spindle before tightening
the nuts.
3. Place the tie rod with washer into position on the
spindle arm. Secure with a new lock nut. Tighten to
32 ft-lb.
4. Install the ski.
14
3. Loosely install a new lock nut to secure the lower
A-arm to the spindle; then remove the snowmobile
from the support stand. Tighten to 45 ft-lb.
NOTE: The weight of the snowmobile will allow the
ball joint to seat into the spindle before tightening the
nut.
4. Place the tie rod with washer into position on the
spindle arm. Secure with a new lock nut. Tighten to
32 ft-lb.
5. Install the ski.
6. Turn the handlebar fully to the right and then to the
left to verify the steering moves freely.
Steering Tie Rod
NOTE: To access the steering arm, the steering tie
rods must be removed.
REMOVING
1. Remove both machine screws and nyloc nuts securing the steering tie rod ends to the steering arm. Discard both nuts.
SNO-350
5. Remove the lock nut securing the steering tie rod to
the steering post. Discard the nut.
SNO-349
2. Remove the nyloc nuts securing the steering tie rod
ends to the spindle arms. Account for the washers
and discard both nuts.
SNO-353
3. Slide the steering tie rod out of the steering boot and
out of the snowmobile.
4. Remove the screw and lock nut securing the steering
tie rod end to the steering arm. Discard the nut.
SNO-351
NOTE: At this point if the technician’s objective is
to remove the steering arm, the reinforcement
bracket will need to be removed by drilling out the
appropriate rivets.
6. Remove all torx-head screws securing the front skid
plate to the chassis; then remove the cap screw and
nut securing the steering arm to the chassis. Account
for two washers and two bushings.
SNO-829A
INSPECTING
1. Inspect the ball joints for damaged threads or wear.
2. Inspect the tie rod for damage, unusual bends, or
wear.
INSTALLING
1. Secure steering arm into position and secure using
the existing cap screw, flat washers, and nut. Tighten
to 96 in.-lb.
15
SNO-829A
2. Place the steering tie rod into position on the steering
post. Secure with a new nyloc nut. Tighten to 35
ft-lb.
SNO-353
5. Secure the steering tie rod to the steering tie rod
bracket with the screw and new nyloc nut. Tighten to
20 ft-lb.
SNO-351
NOTE: Make sure the tie rod tab is fully seated into
the steering post and threads of the ball joint are
above the nut when tightened correctly.
3. Place the tie rod end into position on the steering tie
rod bracket. Secure with a new nyloc nut. Tighten to
20 ft-lb.
SNO-350
4. Slide the steering tie rod through the steering boot
and into the snowmobile; then place the steering tie
rod into the spindle arm with the washer. Secure
with a new nyloc nut. Tighten to 32 ft-lb.
SNO-349
Ski Alignment
CHECKING
NOTE: Track tension and alignment must be prop-
erly adjusted prior to checking or adjusting ski alignment. Ski alignment must be performed on a flat,
level surface. Ski toe-out must fall within the range of
1/16-1/4 in.
1. Raise the front end of snowmobile just high enough
to keep the skis from contacting the floor.
2. Turn the handlebar to the straight-ahead position.
Visually inspect the handlebar for being centered and
in the straight-ahead position.
3. With the handlebar in the straight-ahead position,
secure the handlebar to prevent the alignment from
becoming disturbed during the remainder of the
alignment procedure.
NOTE: Track tension and alignment must be prop-
erly adjusted prior to placing the straightedge against
the outside edge of the track.
4. Place a long straightedge against the outside edge of
the track so it lies near the inside edge of the left-side
ski.
16
NOTE: The straightedge should be long enough to
extend from the back of the track to the front of the
ski.
5. Measure the distance from the straightedge to the
left-side ski wear bar bolts in two places: approximately 7-8 in. in front of the spindle and 7-8 in.
behind the spindle. Record the measurements taken
for the left side.
729-887A
2. Loosen both spindle tie rod jam nuts on the same
side as the ski to be aligned.
3. Using a wrench on the spindle tie rod “flats,” rotate
the spindle tie rod until recommended specification
is attained.
4. Apply blue Loctite #243 to each jam nut thread area;
then tighten the jam nuts against the spindle tie rod.
NOTE: Repeat this procedure on each side (if neces-
sary) until ski toe-out is within specification.
! WARNING
Neglecting to lock the tie rod by tightening the jam nuts
may cause loss of snowmobile control and possible
personal injury.
VERIFYING
1. With the handlebar in the straight-ahead position,
verify ski alignment by measuring across from the
outside edge of the left-side wear bar bolts to the outside edge of the right-side wear bar bolts (without
using the straightedge) in two places: approximately
7-8 in. in front of the spindle and 7-8 in. behind the
spindle.
2. The measurement from in front of the spindle to the
outer edge of the wear bar bolts (without using the
straightedge) must not exceed the rear measurement
by more than 1/16-1/4 in. toe-out.
0734-408
6. Place the straightedge against the outside edge of the
track so it lies near the inside edge of the right-side
ski.
7. Measure the distance from the straightedge to the
right-side ski wear bar bolts in two places: 7-8 in. in
front of the spindle and 7-8 in. behind the spindle.
Record the measurements taken for the right side.
! WARNING
The measurement from the front and rear wear bar bolts
to the straightedge can be equal (ski parallel to the
track), but the front measurement must never be less
(ski toed-in) or poor handling will be experienced. The
front wear bar bolt measurement to the straightedge
must not exceed the measurement from the rear wear
bar bolt to the straightedge (ski toed-out) by more than
5/32 in.
8. If ski alignment is not as specified, adjust the alignment of the ski(s) not parallel to the straightedge.
ADJUSTING
NOTE: The following procedure can be used to
adjust the alignment of either ski.
NOTE: The rivets securing the steering boots will
have to be removed in order to adjust the inner tie rod
ends.
1. Secure the steering tie rod in the centered position.
0734-408
! WARNING
The measurement taken in front of the spindle must
never be less than the measurement taken behind the
spindle or poor handling will be experienced. Neglecting to lock the tie rod by tightening the jam nuts may
cause loss of snowmobile control and possible personal injury.
A-Arms (ZR/XF)
REMOVING
NOTE: The front bumper must be removed.
1. Elevate the front of the snowmobile and secure using
a suitable support stand.
2. Remove the push rivets securing the steering boot to
the chassis; then slide the boot away from the snowmobile.
17
3. Remove the torx-head screws securing the front skid
plate to the chassis; then remove the front skid plate.
4. Inspect mounting location of the chassis for cracks or
wear.
4. Remove the ski shock absorber.
5. Remove the two lock nuts securing the spindle to the
A-arms; then using a rubber mallet, remove the arms
from the spindle. Discard the nuts.
SNO-354
6. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the
sway bar link to the lower arm. Discard the nut.
INSTALLING
1. Place the upper arm into position on the chassis and
secure with the cap screws and new nyloc nuts.
Tighten to 23 ft-lb.
2. Slide the lower arm into the boot; then place the arm
into position on the chassis. Secure with the cap
screws and new nyloc nuts and tighten to 55 ft-lb
(front) and 45 ft-lb (rear).
SNO-226A
3. Secure the sway bar link to the lower arm with the
cap screw and new nyloc nut. Tighten to 23 ft-lb.
SNO-764
7. Remove the two cap screws and nyloc nuts securing
the lower arm to the chassis; then slide the boot from
the arm and remove the arm.
SNO-226A
8. Remove the two cap screws and lock nuts securing
the upper arm to the chassis. Discard the nuts.
INSPECTING
1. Inspect the arm welded areas for cracks or any signs
of deterioration.
2. Inspect the bearings and axles for wear or damage.
3. Inspect the arm tubing for signs of twisting or bending.
SNO-764
4. Secure the A-arms to the spindle.
5. Install the ski shock absorber.
6. Place the front skid plate into position; then secure
with the torx-head screws.
NOTE: Install the front bumper.
A-Arms (XF HC/M)
REMOVING
1. Elevate the front of the snowmobile and secure using
a suitable support stand.
2. Remove the push rivets securing the steering boot to
the chassis; then slide the boot away from the snowmobile.
18
SNO-763
3. Remove the torx-head screws securing the front skid
plate to the chassis; then remove the front skid plate.
4. Remove the ski shock absorber.
5. Remove the lock nut, machine screw, and tri-nut
securing the spindle to the A-arms; then using a rubber mallet, remove the lower A-arm from the spindle.
0749-480A
6. Remove the two cap screws and nyloc nuts securing
the lower arm to the chassis; then slide the boot from
the arm and remove the arm.
SNO-572
INSPECTING
1. Inspect the arm welded areas for cracks or any signs
of deterioration.
2. Inspect the bearings and axles for wear or damage.
3. Inspect the arm tubing for signs of twisting or bending.
4. Inspect mounting location of the chassis for cracks or
wear.
INSTALLING
1. Place the upper arm into position on the chassis and
secure with the cap screws, axles, and new lock nuts.
Tighten to 23 ft-lb.
SNO-226A
7. Remove the two cap screws and lock nuts securing
the upper arm to the chassis.
SNO-572
2. Slide the lower arm into the steering boot; then place
the arm into position on the chassis with the existing
bushings. Secure with the cap screws and new lock
nuts and tighten to 55 ft-lb (front) and 45 ft-lb (rear).
PC095A
19
3. Secure the A-arms to the spindle using one new lock
nut and one new tri nut. Tighten to the lock nut 45
ft-lb and the tri-nut to 23 ft-lb.
NOTE: If the upper A-arm ball joint is being
replaced, make sure the ball joint is threaded in as far
as it can. Do not adjust outward or damage to the
A-arm or ball joint can occur.
4. Using a 19 mm wrench, tighten the hex nut against
the upper A-arm securely making sure to keep the
ball joint level with the spindle.
5. Install the ski shock absorber and secure using the
existing cap screws and new lock nuts. Tighten to 24
ft-lb.
6. Install the steering boot and secure using the existing
push-rivets; then place the front skid plate into position; then secure with the torx-head screws.
Ski Shock Absorber
SNO-764
2. Remove the torx-head screws securing the sway bar
mounting brackets; then pull the sway bar out of the
snowmobile.
INSPECTING
1. Inspect the sway bar for any signs of twisting,
fatigue, or wear.
2. Inspect the sway bar arms for cracks or damage.
REMOVING
1. Position the front of the snowmobile on a safety
stand taking all pressure off the skis.
2. Remove the cap screws securing the shock absorber
to the chassis and the lower A-arm; then remove the
shock absorber. Account for all mounting hardware.
CLEANING AND INSPECTING
1. Inspect the shock absorber seal area for signs of
excessive oil leakage.
2. Inspect the shock absorber mounting eyelet, bushings, and sleeve for wear or damage.
3. Inspect the threaded shock sleeve for damage or
wear.
INSTALLING
1. Using the shock spring tool, place the spring on the
shock absorber and secure with the retainer.
2. Adjust the retainer nut (spring adjuster) (if applicable) until the specified amount of threads are
exposed between the spring adjuster and the shock
housing (noted in removing) as an initial setting.
3. Install the bushings, sleeves, and spacers into each
shock end; then place the shock absorber into position and secure with the cap screws and new lock
nuts. Tighten the lock nuts to 32 ft-lb for ZR/XF
models and 24 ft-lb for XF HC/M models.
3. Inspect the links, bushings, bushing retainers, and
hardware for damage or wear.
INSTALLING
1. Place the sway bar into the sway bar mounting
brackets; then install the sway bar into the snowmobile. Secure with the torx-head screws and tighten to
96 in.-lb.
2. Secure the sway bar links to the sway bar and lower
A-arm with the cap screws and new nyloc nuts.
Tighten to 23 ft-lb.
SNO-764
Front Bumper
Sway Bar
REMOVING
1. Remove the nyloc nuts and cap screws securing the
sway bar link to the lower A-arm and the sway bar.
20
REMOVING/INSTALLING
1. Remove both access panels and the hood.
2. Remove the eight torx screws and washers securing
the front fascia and bumper to the chassis; then
remove the front center fascia.
SNO-887
3. Remove the PDM from the PDM bracket; then
remove the front bumper assembly.
4. Using a punch and a hammer, remove the center of
the existing huck rivets securing the PDM bracket to
the bumper.
5. Using a 1/4-in. drill bit, drill out the four huck rivets.
SNO-852
NOTE: On models with heated seats prior to lower-
ing and securing the seat, connect the seat heater harness connector.
Seat Cushion
6. Secure the PDM bracket to the bottom side of the
front bumper using the four huck rivets.
7. Position the front bumper assembly over the front of
the snowmobile and align with the previous mounting locations.
8. Secure the bumper to the intercooler assembly using
the existing four torx screws. Tighten securely.
9. Install the PDM into the PDM bracket; then position
the front fascia and secure using the existing torx
screws and washers. Tighten securely.
10. Install the hood and both access panels.
Seat Assembly
NOTE: On models with heated seats, be sure to discon-
nect the seat heater harness before removing the seat.
1. Remove the cap screw securing the rear of the seat;
then remove the seat.
REMOVING
1. Remove the seat assembly.
2. Using a sharp tool, pry out all staples securing the
seat cover to the plastic seat base.
3. From beneath the seat foam, remove the seat wire
from the two elastic loops; then remove the cover
from the seat base and seat foam.
INSTALLING
1. Position the cover over the seat foam and seat base;
then pull the two elastic loops through the slots in the
seat foam and secure with the seat wire. Check to
make sure it is positioned straight.
2. Fold the rear edge of the cushion down and around
the plastic base. Using a staple gun and 1/4 in. staples, staple the rear flap of the cushion to the plastic
base in the same areas as the original staples were
located. Position staples 1 in. apart.
3. Fold the sides of the cushion down around the bottom edge of the plastic seat base. Position the staples
in the same area as the original staples were located.
NOTE: Note the cushion fit. If any wrinkles are
noted, remove by pulling the cushion material in the
appropriate direction before securing with staples.
SNO-851
2. Route the three front tabs on the seat through the
console; then install the seat and secure using the cap
screw.
4. Fold the front cushion material back and onto the
plastic seat base. Check for wrinkles and secure with
staples and two screws.
5. Install the seat assembly.
Taillight/Brakelight
Assembly
1. Remove the two machine screws securing the taillight to the taillight support; then disconnect the taillight harness connector.
21
SNO-511
2. Connect the taillight harness connector; then secure
the taillight to the taillight support with the two
machine screws. Tighten to 48 in.-lb.
Rear Bumper/Snowflap
REMOVING BUMPER
1. Remove and retain only the two machine screws
securing the rear of the skid frame assembly.
2. Place cardboard or a suitable substitute on the floor
to protect the snowmobile from being scratched; then
install Steering Post Stand for the standard steering
models or Handlebar Stand for the adjustable steering models into the lower holes in the handlebar riser
(from the left-side) and tip the snowmobile onto its
left side.
Windshield/Console/
Headlight
REMOVING
1. Remove both access panels and the hood.
2. Remove the six screws securing the windshield to
the console; then remove the windshield.
3. Remove the six screws securing the console.
XM541A
3. Swing the skid frame assembly away from the chassis; then using a 3/16-in. drill bit, remove all rivets
securing the left-side of the bumper; then repeat for
opposite side.
4. Remove and retain the two machine screws and nuts
securing the front of the existing bumper to the chassis.
5. Remove the two rivets securing the snowflap to the
bumper. Remove the bumper.
INSTALLING BUMPER
1. Align the holes in the bumper with the existing holes
in the tunnel; then using new rivets, secure rear
bumper to the tunnel; then secure the snowflap to the
rear bumper using new rivets.
2. Secure the front of the bumper to the chassis using
the existing machine screws and nuts. Tighten
securely.
3. Install skid frame assembly using two existing
machine screws. Tighten securely.
REMOVING SNOWFLAP
1. Drill out the rivets securing the snowflap to the tunnel; then remove the snowflap.
INSTALLING SNOWFLAP
1. Secure the snowflap to the tunnel using the appropriate rivets.
XM542A
4. Disconnect the gauge, electrical accessory wires, and
the ignition switch.
5. Remove the three screws securing the headlight to
the hood; then disconnect the headlight connector.
Remove the headlight.
XM543A
22
INSTALLING
1. Position the headlight onto the hood; then secure the
headlight using the existing screws. Connect the
headlight connector.
2. Engage the side console tabs on the headlight assembly; then place the front of the console over the headlight assembly and press down until it snaps in place.
3. Secure the console to the headlight and the hood
using the existing screws. Tighten securely.
4. Connect the gauge; then connect the electrical accessory wires and the ignition switch.
5. With the windshield in position, secure the windshield to the frame using the six screws. Tighten
securely.
6. Install the hood and both access panels.
Adjusting Headlight Aim
The headlight can be adjusted for vertical aim of the
HIGH/LOW beam. The geometric center of HIGH beam
zone is to be used for vertical aiming.
2. Measure the distance from the floor to midpoint of
the headlight.
3. Using the measurement obtained in step 2, make a
horizontal mark on the aiming surface.
4. Make a vertical mark intersecting the horizontal
mark on the aiming surface directly in front of the
headlight.
5. Engage the brake lever lock and start the engine.
Select the headlight dimmer switch HIGH beam
position. DO NOT USE LOW BEAM.
6. Observe the headlight beam aim. Proper aim is when
the most intense beam is centered on the vertical
mark 5 cm (2 in.) below the horizontal mark on the
aiming surface.
7. Adjust the headlight using the adjusting screw on the
backside of the headlight housing until correct aim is
obtained. Shut the engine off; then disengage the
brake lever lock.
1. Position the snowmobile on a level floor so the headlight is approximately 25 ft from an aiming surface
(wall or similar surface).
NOTE: There should be an “average” operating
load on the snowmobile when adjusting headlight
aim.
0750-309
23
Engine
NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,
cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is necessary.
SPECIAL TOOLS
A number of special tools must be available to the technician when performing service procedures in this engine
section.
NOTE: When indicated for use, each special tool
will be identified by its specific name, as shown in the
chart below, and capitalized.
Descriptionp/n
Drive Clutch Bolt Tool0644-281
Drive Clutch Puller 0744-062
Drive Clutch Spanner Wrench0644-136
Engine Lift Plate0744-073
Hood Harness Extension1686-659
NOTE: Special tools are available from the Arctic
Cat Service Parts Department.
CAUTION
Never attempt to substitute any other drive clutch puller
for the recommended puller or severe clutch or crankshaft damage will occur.
Engine Removing/ Installing
YM-176A
3. Remove the gas tank assembly.
4. Remove the cap screw from the secondary sheave
and slide the secondary sheave (along with the drive
belt) off the driven shaft. Account for alignment
washers and sheave adjuster.
5. Remove the cap screw and washer securing the primary sheave to the crankshaft.
6. Using Primary Sheave Puller, tighten the puller.
Remove the primary sheave.
NOTE: If the primary sheave will not release,
sharply strike the head of the puller. Repeat this step
until the sheave releases.
7. Remove the torx-head screws and both access plates
from beneath the snowmobile.
8. Place a drain pan beneath the engine oil drain screw;
then remove the screw and allow the oil to drain
completely. After the oil has drained, install the drain
plug and tighten to 10 N-m (1 kg-m, 7.2 ft-lb).
This engine sub-section has been organized to show a
progression for the removing/installing of the Arctic Cat
998 cc engine. For consistency purposes, this sub-section
shows a complete and thorough progression; however,
for efficiency it may be preferable to remove only those
components needing to be addressed. Also, some components may vary from model to model. The technician
should use discretion and sound judgment.
Removing
NOTE: While removing the engine, note all cable tie
locations.
1. Remove both access panels; then loosen the two
quarter turns securing the hood. Disconnect the hood
harness and pull the hood forward and off of the
snowmobile.
2. Remove the seat; then remove the gas cap and retaining nut from the neck of the gas tank. Remove the
eight screws securing the console. Remove the console.
YM-152A
9. Remove the four torx-head screws securing the
right-side footrest to the tunnel and the support; then
with a drain pan in position, remove the drain plug
from the oil tank.
24
746-121A
NOTE: To aid in draining the oil from the reservoir,
position a funnel between the tank and the opening
of the tunnel running board.
10. After the oil has drained completely, install the drain
plug with a new O-ring and tighten to 22 N-m (2.2
kg-m, 16 ft-lb).
11. Using a suitable vacuum pump, remove the coolant
from the coolant filler neck and the reservoir tank.
12. Remove the five screws and washers securing the
turbo heat shield to the turbo. Remove the shield.
YM-181
13. Remove the cap screws and washers securing the
heat shield to the manifold.
YM-182A
15. Remove the six torx screws securing the resonator to
the turbo; then remove the spring securing the resonator. Remove the resonator and account for a gasket.
NOTE: A long T50 ball head torx bit (p/n 0644-623)
will be needed to remove the torx screws.
YM-154
16. Remove the screws and washers securing the exhaust
heat shield to the tunnel.
YM-155
14. Apply a small amount of penetrating lubricant to the
threads of the two clamp threads; then remove the
two nuts securing the exhaust pipe clamps. Remove
the clamps and the pipe.
YM-157
17. Remove the hose clamps securing hoses to the turbo,
intake manifold, intercooler, and the air bypass
valve. Remove both hoses.
25
SNO-835A
18. Remove the steering post assembly; then remove the
two cap screws and nuts securing the vapor tank to
the right-side support.
19. Remove the cap screws securing the front spars to
the chassis; then remove the cap screws and nuts
securing the right-side support to the chassis.
Remove the steering support as an assembly.
SNO-836
20. Remove the screws securing the air silencer to the
clutch guard; then disconnect the hose from the top
of the engine and the waste gate hose. Remove the
air silencer assembly.
SNO-837
22. Remove the clamp securing the intake duct to the
PTO-side of the turbo.
23. Remove the hose clamp securing the coolant hose to
the vapor tank; then remove the hose clamp securing
the coolant hose from the bottom of the turbo.
YM-164
24. Remove the clamp securing the oil return hose to the
crankcase; then remove the oil delivery hose to the
cylinder. Account for two washers.
YM-185A
21. Remove the two cap screws and spacers securing the
intake manifold and throttle body to the engine; then
remove the three clamps securing the intake boots to
the throttle body. Remove the intake manifold.
26
YM-165A
YM-163
25. Remove the four cap screws and four nuts securing
the right-side chassis support to the chassis. Remove
the turbo and support assembly.
26. Remove the three screws and one nut securing the
clutch guard; then remove the screws and nuts securing the left-side chassis support. Rotate the support
up to gain access to the rear engine cap screw.
YM-186
27. Remove all six cap screws and nuts securing the
front engine bracket; then remove the bracket.
Remove the cap screw and nut securing the ground
wire to the engine.
YM-160
29. Remove the clamp securing the MAG-side coolant
hose to the engine; then disconnect the oil pressure
switch and the oil pressure sensor.
30. With all hoses and wires disconnected from the
engine, move the engine forward and out the
right-side of the chassis.
31. Remove the throttle body assembly once the engine
is removed.
Installing
NOTE: Before installing the engine, be sure the
starter motor and cables are installed and secured to
the engine.
SNO-364
28. Remove the cap screw and nut securing the rear of
the engine to the chassis.
YM-162
NOTE: If the thermostat-to-heat exchanger coolant
hose was removed, make sure it is properly routed
and installed onto the heat exchanger. Tighten to 4
N-m (0.4 kg-m, 35 in.-lb).
YM-159
27
1. Position the front engine bracket with the front
engine mounts; then loosely secure using the existing
cap screws and new nuts.
SNO-365
2. Carefully lower the engine into the chassis aligning
the rear engine mounts with the chassis mounts; then
loosely secure using the existing cap screw and a
new nut.
SNO-364A
6. Connect the oil pressure switch and the oil pressure
sensor to the main harness.
7. Connect the coolant hose from the heat exchanger to
the water pump and secure using the existing hose
clamp. Tighten to 4 N-m (0.4 kg-m, 35 in.-lb).
NOTE: All wires, cables, and hoses must be
installed on the inside of the coolant hose and the
PTO-side bracket.
CAUTION
Make sure the top clamp is routed like the image below
so the clamp does not come in contact with the primary
sheave.
YM-160
3. Loosely secure the front engine mounting bracket to
the chassis using the existing cap screws and new
nuts; then loosely secure the ground cable to the
engine using the existing cap screw and a new nut.
SNO-364
4. Tighten the rear engine cap screw and nut to 126
N-m (12.8 kg-m, 93 ft-lb).
5. Tighten the cap screws (A and B) to 34 N-m (3.5
kg-m, 25 ft-lb). Tighten cap screws (C) to 88 N-m
(8.9 kg-m, 65 ft-lb). Tighten cap screw (D) to 41
N-m (4.2 kg-m, 30 ft-lb).
YM-161
NOTE: Route the positive and negative battery
cables up and over the engine mounts.
8. Install the throttle body assembly into the three
intake boots and secure using the existing clamps.
Tighten to 3 N-m (0.3 kg-m, 26 in.-lb).
28
YM-168
9. Install the throttle body coolant hoses to the engine
and the water pump. Secure using the existing
clamps.
10. Install the intake manifold assembly onto the throttle
body assembly and secure using the existing clamps.
Tighten to 2.4 N-m (0.24 kg-m, 20 in.-lb).
11. Secure the manifold bracket to the engine using the
existing cap screws and spacers. Tighten to 10 N-m
(1.0 kg-m, 7.2 ft-lb).
YM-169
12. Position the right-side rear spar with the chain case
assembly; then install the existing cap screws
through the chain case and the spar.
YM-164
15. Secure the oil return hose to the crankcase using the
existing clamp; then secure the oil delivery hose to
the cylinder using the existing banjo bolt and new
washers. Tighten to 10 N-m (1.0 kg-m, 7.2 ft-lb).
13. With the turbo installed onto the MAG-side mounting bracket; secure the assembly to the chassis using
the existing screws and nuts. Tighten to 27 N-m (2.8
kg-m, 20 ft-lb).
YM-163
14. Connect the lower coolant hose on the backside of
the turbo to the oil cooler. Secure using the existing
hose clamp. Tighten to 3.5 N-m (0.35 kg-m, 35
in.-lb.
YM-165A
YM-163
NOTE: Make sure the distance (A) between the oil
delivery hose and the turbo is 3.0 mm (0.12 in.).
SNO-821
29
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