This Arctic Cat Service Manual contains service and maintenance information for certain Model Year 2015 Arctic
Cat Snowmobiles (see cover). The manual is designed to aid service personnel in service-oriented applications.
This manual is divided into sections. The sections cover specific snowmobile components or systems and, in addition
to the standard service procedures, includes assembling, disassembling, and inspecting instructions. When using this
manual as a guide, the technician should use discretion as to how much disassembly is needed to correct any given condition.
The service technician should become familiar with the operation and construction of the components or systems by
carefully studying the complete manual. This will assist the service technician in becoming more aware of and efficient
with servicing procedures. Such efficiency not only helps build consumer confidence but also saves time and labor.
All Arctic Cat publications and snowmobile decals display the words Warning, Caution, and Note to emphasize important information. The symbol ! WARNING identifies personal safety-related information. Be sure to follow the
directive because it deals with the possibility of severe personal injury or even death. A CAUTION identifies
unsafe practices which may result in snowmobile-related damage. Follow the directive because it deals with the possibility of damaging part or parts of the snowmobile. The symbol NOTE: identifies supplementary information worthy
of particular attention.
At the time of publication, all information, photographs, and illustrations were technically correct. Some photographs
and illustrations used in this manual are used for clarity purposes only and are not designed to depict actual conditions.
Because Arctic Cat Inc. constantly refines and improves its products, no retroactive obligation is incurred.
All materials and specifications are subject to change without notice.
Keep this manual accessible in the shop area for reference.
Product Service and Warranty Department
Arctic Cat Inc.
NOTE: General specifications for each 2015 Arctic
Cat Snowmobile can be accessed from the Arctic Cat
Cat Tracker Dealer Communication System online.
NOTE: Some illustrations and photographs used in
this section are used for clarity purposes only and
are not designed to depict actual conditions.
Snowmobile
Identification
RECOMMENDED OIL
CAUTION
Any oil used in place of the recommended oil may
cause serious damage.
The recommended oil to use in the oil-injection system is
either Arctic Cat C-Tec2 for the 6000 or Arctic Cat APV
Synthetic 2-Cycle Oil for the 4000/8000. These oils are
specially formulated to be used either as an injection oil or
as a pre-mix oil (for break-in) and meets all of the lubrication requirements of the Arctic Cat snowmobile engine.
CAUTION
Any oil used in place of the recommended oil could
cause serious engine damage.
The Arctic Cat Snowmobile has two important identification
numbers. The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) is stamped
into the tunnel near the right-side footrest. The decal also displays pertinent production information. The Engine Serial
Number (ESN) is stamped into the crankcase of the engine.
These numbers are required to complete warranty claims
properly. No warranty will be allowed by Arctic Cat if
the engine serial number or VIN is removed or mutilated
in any way.
Recommended Gasoline
and Oil
CAUTION
Do not use white gas or gasoline containing methanol.
Only Arctic Cat approved gasoline additives should be
used.
RECOMMENDED GASOLINE
6000/8000
The recommended gasoline to use is 91 octane (minimum).
NOTE: If a situation arises in which 91 octane gaso-
line is not available, 87 octane gasoline can be substituted; however, do not prolong the usage of 87 octane
gasoline as it will cause poor engine performance.
In many areas, oxygenates are added to the gasoline.
Oxygenated gasolines containing up to 10% ethanol are
acceptable gasolines.
4000
The recommended gasoline to use is 87 octane regular
unleaded. In many areas, oxygenates are added to the
gasoline. Oxygenated gasolines containing up to 10%
ethanol are acceptable gasolines.
When using ethanol blended gasoline, it is not necessary
to add a gasoline antifreeze since ethanol will prevent the
accumulation of moisture in the fuel system.
Engine Break-In
4000/8000
The Arctic Cat engine (when new or rebuilt) requires a
short break-in period before the engine is subjected to
heavy load conditions. Arctic Cat requires that the first
tankful of fuel be premixed at a 100:1 ratio in all oilinjection models.
CAUTION
DO NOT exceed the one (1) tankful limitation of a 100:1
gas/oil break-in mixture. Continuous use of a gas/oil
mixture could cause spark plug fouling and excessive
carbon buildup.
During the break-in period, a maximum of 1/2 throttle is
recommended; however, brief full-throttle accelerations
and variations in driving speeds contribute to good
engine break-in.
6000
The Arctic Cat engine (when new or rebuilt) requires a
short break-in period before the engine is subjected to
heavy load conditions.
Premixing fuel and oil during the break in period is not
required. With the oil delivery control strategy of the
electronic oil pump, the pump will automatically compensate and deliver a richer fuel-to-oil ratio during the
engine break-in period.
Some customers may choose to pre-mix the first tank and
if this is the case, a pre-mix ratio of 100:1 is acceptable.
A pre-mix ratio of 100:1 combined with the richer fuel/
oil delivered from the electronic oil pump during breakin may cause additional smoke at start up and idle.
CAUTION
DO NOT exceed the one (1) tankful limitation of a 100:1
gas/oil break-in mixture. Continuous use of a gas/oil
mixture could cause spark plug fouling and excessive
carbon buildup.
During the break-in period, a maximum of 1/2 throttle
(with varying throttle positions) is recommended; however, brief full-throttle accelerations and variations in
driving speeds contribute to good engine break-in.
2
Drive Belt Break-In
Drive belts require a break-in period of approximately 25
miles. Drive the snowmobile for 25 miles at 3/4 throttle or
less. By revving the engine up and down (but not exceeding 60 mph), the exposed cord on the side of a new belt
will be worn down. This will allow the drive belt to gain
its optimum flexibility and will extend drive belt life.
NOTE: Before starting the snowmobile in extremely
cold temperatures, the drive belt should be removed
and warmed up to room temperature. Once the drive
belt is at room temperature, install the drive belt (see
Drive Belt sub-section in the Drive Train/Track/Brake
Systems section of this manual).
CAUTION
Running the engine with the drive belt removed could
result in serious engine damage and drive clutch failure.
Genuine Parts
When replacement of parts is necessary, use only genuine
Arctic Cat parts. They are precision-made to ensure high
quality and correct fit.
Varying Altitude
Operation
Operating a snowmobile at varying altitudes requires recalibration of drive system components. Consult the appropriate specification sheet on Cat Tracker Online.
Following are basic altitude theories for clutching,
engine, suspension, and track.
CLUTCHING
On a normally-aspirated engine as altitude changes,
engine horsepower changes with it. As you go up in altitude, the engine loses horsepower. Because of this, the
continuously variable transmission (CVT) system needs
to be calibrated to compensate for the horsepower loss.
The driven clutch will also play a part in CVT tuning for
high altitude operation. A steeper helix (torque bracket)
angle in the driven clutch will mean a quicker up-shift. A
shallower angle will mean a slower up-shift. If the up-shift
is too quick, due to a very steep helix, RPM will be pulled
down under the peak operating RPM of the engine (where
the horsepower is) and performance will suffer. The engine
may even bog.
ENGINE
A normally aspirated engine will generate more horsepower
at sea level than it does at higher altitudes. The reason is that
the higher you go, less oxygen is available for the engine to
use during its combustion process. Less oxygen means it
needs less fuel to obtain the correct air/fuel ratio to operate
properly. This is why the fuel ratio has to be recalibrated.
High altitude engines operate as though they have a lower
compression ratio. This, along with less oxygen and less
fuel, means that the engine generates less horsepower. All
of these characteristics will become more evident the higher
the altitude.
SUSPENSION
The different riding styles of the individual operator, the
varying snow conditions, and the type of terrain are all
factors that affect the suspension at high altitude. Trail
riding versus powder snow riding versus combination
riding will all require different suspension settings.
The normal setting for front ski suspension is as little spring
pre-load tension as possible for powder snow riding allowing the skis to float across the snow with the least amount
of resistance. Trail riding will require more spring tension
to carry the varying load more effectively. Many different
settings and spring tensions to consider exist when adjusting for riding style and snow conditions.
The rear suspension has a number of spring settings that
produce different riding characteristics.
The front arm spring and shock will also affect the ride and
handling when either on a trail or in powder snow. A strong
spring setting on this shock will cause the snowmobile to
tend to “dig” more when riding in the powder snow rather
than climbing up on top of the snow. But, it will work more
effectively when riding on a trail. A softer spring setting
will allow the front of the rear suspension to collapse much
quicker and change the angle of the track to the snow. A
more gradual angle will tend to raise the snowmobile up on
the snow rather than digging into it.
At altitudes above 5000 ft, the engine loses peak horsepower but will also lose horsepower at engagement speed.
For this reason, calibrating the drive system is usually
needed in order to attain acceptable performance. Changing
drive clutch engagement speed can be done several ways.
Some of the methods will affect other characteristics of
CVT operation, so you must be careful what you change.
Drive clutch springs are the most common way to increase
engagement speed; however, by simply changing the cam
arms to a lighter weight from the heavier sea level cam arm,
you will gain some engagement speed.
Many possible variables and adjustments to the rear suspension exist depending on snow conditions, riding style,
and type of terrain. These adjustments can be made to individualize the snowmobile to the riding style of the operator.
M/XF High Country
As snow cover and riding conditions change, several different adjustments can be made to change the ride and handling characteristics for operator preference. Located on
the front suspension arm are limiter straps. They limit the
amount of “fallout” the front arm can have. These straps
may be adjusted in or out due to conditions and riding
style. The more the straps are brought up, the more steering
power the operator has due to the amount of ski pressure.
3
Another adjustment that can be made on the rear suspension is the front arm shock spring tension. As trail conditions change, the spring pre-load may be used to decrease
the chance of the front end “bottoming out.” With a stiffer
spring pre-load, the ride of the snowmobile will improve on
the trail but will affect the performance in the deep powder
snow. In deep powder snow, the stiffer spring pre-load will
cause the front-end to “dig” and possibly take longer for it
to plane off. Several different-rate springs are available for
different riding styles and terrain conditions.
On the standard models, the front shock springs are also
individually adjustable for the terrain conditions and
driving style of the operator. The spring adjuster has been
set at the factory so the correct amount of threads are
exposed between the spring adjuster and the shock housing as an initial setting. Additional ski pressure can be
obtained by tightening the spring tension; ski pressure
can be decreased by relaxing spring tension. Springs with
different spring rates are available for operator choice
and snow conditions.
A limit exists as to how far you can pre-load the springs
before “coil bind” takes effect where the wire on the
spring actually runs into itself and causes binding. Equal
adjustments should be maintained on both sides of the
snowmobile. On the Sno Pro models with float shocks,
they are individually adjustable for the terrain conditions
and driving style of the operator. The shocks are preset at
the factory (see chart) as an initial setting; however, it is
possible to “fine tune” the shocks to match the operator’s
weight, riding style, and terrain conditions.
Initial Setting Chart
ModelFront Shock (Ski)Rear Arm Shock
XF/ZR Sno Pro 60 psiN/A
XF High Country/M Sno
Pro/M LTD
XF Cross Country
XF Cross-TourN/A145 psi
XF Cross-Tour OS
ZR RR
90 psi145 psi
75 psi145 psi
75 psi145 psi
80 psi (Main
Chamber) 200 psi
(Evol Chamber)
N/A
Checking and adjusting air pressure must be done at riding
temperature (outside) and shocks are at full extension with
no weight on the shock. Also, it is advisable to check air
pressure when the outside temperature varies more than 25°.
NOTE: Care should be taken to have equal pressure
in the ski shocks before operating the snowmobile.
Finally, track tension should be looked at to make sure that it
is within recommended specifications to affect the efficiency
of the snowmobile. On models with the torque sensing link,
the track is actually tightening as the suspension moves
through its range of motion causing the track to sag in the
middle and rub on the top part of the rear suspension arm.
TRACK
Carefully matching the riding requirements to the type of
track will ensure the maximum use of all available engine
power. Lug height and track durometer are the two main
concerns when selecting a track for various riding styles.
Tracks exist with lug heights from 0.750” up to 2.6” to
accommodate various snow conditions. Generally, the
deeper the snow, the taller the lug. It must be noted that
the installation of any deep-lug track may reduce top end
speed and promote premature wear strip wear in marginal
snow conditions.
Durometer is a measurement of how hard a rubber is. The
lugs on most tracks range between 60 and 85 durometer.
On the durometer scale, the higher the number, the harder
the lugs. For riding in deep powder snow, a softer durometer track works best. The softer rubber allows the track to
“give” a little and pack the snow creating lift rather than
digging its way straight down. When hill-climbing, the
harder lug of an 80 durometer track works the best due to
penetrating the hard snow creating more bite.
Some tracks come with a dual durometer rating, such as a
track with a 80/60 durometer rating. The lugs on this track
are 80% 80 durometer rubber, and the top 20% is made of
the softer 60 durometer rubber. This track is designed to be
a good all-around track for riding mostly in deep powder
snow but can climb the occasional hard snow hill.
Preparation For Storage
Prior to storing the snowmobile, it must be properly serviced to prevent corrosion and component deterioration.
1. Clean the seat cushion with a damp cloth and Arctic
Cat Vinyl Protectant.
2. Clean the snowmobile thoroughly by hosing dirt, oil,
grass, and other foreign matter from the skid frame,
tunnel, hood, and belly pan. Allow the snowmobile
to dry thoroughly. DO NOT get water into any part
of the engine.
3. Place the rear of the snowmobile up on a shielded
safety stand; then start the engine and allow to idle.
Spray an Engine Storage Preserver into the intakes
until the engine exhaust starts to smoke heavily or
until the engine starts to drop in RPM. Turn engine
off. Install the intake boots.
CAUTION
Do not run the engine without the belt guard in place
and secured.
4. Plug the exhaust system outlet with a clean cloth.
5. With the ignition switch in the OFF position:
A. Disconnect the high tension leads from the spark
plugs; then remove the plugs, connect them to the
leads, and ground them on the cylinder heads.
CAUTION
Never crank the engine over without grounding the
spark plugs. Damage to coils and/or ECM may result.
B. Pour 29.5 ml (1 fl oz) of SAE #30 petroleum-
based oil into each spark plug hole and pull the
recoil starter handle slowly about 10 times.
C. Install the spark plugs and connect the high ten-
sion leads.
4
6. Fill the gas tank to its rated capacity; then add Arctic
Cat Fuel Stabilizer to the gas tank following directions on the container for the stabilizer/gasoline
ratio. Tighten the gas tank cap securely.
7. With the snowmobile level, check the lubricant level
in the chain case. If low, add chain lube through the
fill plug hole.
8. Remove the drive belt from the drive clutch/driven
clutch. Lay the belt on a flat surface or slide it into a
cardboard sleeve to prevent warping or distortion
during storage; then clean and inspect the drive
clutch and driven clutch.
9. Apply light oil to the upper steering post bushings
and to the shafts of the shock absorbers; then lubricate the rear suspension with an all-temperature
grease.
10. Tighten all nuts, bolts, and cap screws making sure
all calibrated nuts, bolts, and cap screws are tightened to specifications. Make sure all rivets holding
the components together are tight. Replace all loose
rivets.
11. Clean and polish the hood, console, and chassis with
Cat Cleaner. DO NOT USE SOLVENTS. THE PROPELLENT WILL DAMAGE THE FINISH.
12. On electric start models, disconnect the battery
cables making sure to disconnect the negative cable
first; then clean the battery posts and cables.
CAUTION
Sealed batteries require charging if left for extended
non-start periods. Arctic Cat recommends trickle charging once a month. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions and cautions.
13. If possible, store the snowmobile indoors. Raise the
track off the floor by blocking up the back end making sure the snowmobile is secure. Loosen the track
adjusting bolts to reduce track tension. Cover the
snowmobile with a machine cover or a heavy, ventilated tarpaulin to protect it from dirt and dust.
14. If the snowmobile must be stored outdoors, position the
snowmobile out of direct sunlight; then block the entire
snowmobile off the ground making sure the snowmobile
is secure. Loosen the track adjusting bolts to reduce
track tension. Cover with a machine cover or a heavy,
ventilated tarpaulin to protect it from dirt, dust, and rain.
CAUTION
Avoid storing in direct sunlight and using a plastic cover as
moisture may collect on the snowmobile causing corrosion.
Preparation After
Storage
1. Clean the snowmobile thoroughly. Polish the exterior
of the snowmobile.
2. Clean the engine. Remove the cloth from the exhaust
system. Check exhaust system and air silencer for
obstructions.
3. Inspect all control wires and cables for signs of wear or
fraying. Replace if necessary. Use cable ties or tape to
route wires and cables away from hot or rotating parts.
4. Inspect the drive belt for cracks and tears. Check belt
specifications. Replace if damaged or worn. Install
the drive belt.
NOTE: If the old belt is worn but in reasonable con-
dition, retain it with the snowmobile as a spare in
case of emergency.
5. Adjust the throttle cable. Inspect all fuel hoses and
oil hoses for deterioration or cracks; replace if necessary. Make sure all connections are tight.
6. Fill the oil-injection reservoir with the recommended
2-cycle oil; then inspect each spark plug. Replace,
gap, or clean as necessary.
NOTE: After prolonged storage on the 8000, Arctic
Cat recommends one tankful of 100:1 gas/oil mixture
be used in conjunction with the oil-injection system
to ensure proper lubrication.
7. Tighten all nuts, bolts, and cap screws making sure
all calibrated nuts, bolts, and cap screws are tightened to specifications.
8. If not done during preparation for storage, lubricate
the rear suspension with an all-temperature grease.
9. Check the coolant level and all coolant hoses and
connections for deterioration or cracks. Add properly
mixed coolant as necessary.
10. On electric start models, charge the battery; then
connect the battery cables making sure to connect the
positive cable first. Test the electric start system.
11. Inspect the entire brake system, all controls, headlight, taillight, brake light, ski wear bars, and headlight aim; adjust or replace as necessary.
12. Adjust the track to the proper tension and alignment.
After Break-In Checkup/
Checklist
Certain areas require adjustment after the break-in period
in order to obtain peak performance. These areas are the
following.
Taking the snowmobile out of storage and correctly preparing it for another season will assure many miles and
hours of trouble-free snowmobiling. Arctic Cat recommends the following procedure:
5
DRIVE BELT DEFLECTION
— Drive belt deflection is
very important to the snowmobile. Even if it is checked and is
correct when the snowmobile is set up, it does change (more so
during the break-in period). This is because the rubber engine
mounts and the rubber snubber on the torque link will all take
a “set” during the first 100 miles allowing the distance
between the drive clutch and driven clutch to shorten. When
this happens, the snowmobile will appear to have too long of a
drive belt. To add to this, the drive belt wears and stretches.
This sometimes leads to a reduction in low-end performance,
and if not corrected, can cause premature drive belt wear.
After the break-in period, drive belt deflection should be
checked according to the instructions given in the Drive
Train/Track/Brake Systems section of this manual.
DRIVE CLUTCH/DRIVEN CLUTCH
ALIGNMENT (OFFSET)
— The alignment between the
drive clutch and driven clutch are set at the factory. Normally, no adjustment is necessary; however, if premature
drive belt wear or poor performance is experienced, the
drive clutch/driven clutch alignment must be checked. See
“Checking Offset” in the driven train section in this manual.
TRACK TENSION AND ALIGNMENT
— A certain
amount of stretch occurs on all tracks during the first 500
miles. The track must be inspected/adjusted after the first
50 to 100 miles to the specifications given in the Track
Specifications sub-section of this section and periodically
thereafter. If these adjustments aren’t performed, the track
may “derail” which leads to track and slide rail damage.
Along with these major areas, other areas should be checked
and adjusted.x
Below is a list of items to check after the break-in period.
The recommended mileage for this inspection is between
100 and 300 miles.
Check drive belt deflection - drive clutch/driven
Check steering hardware for tightness
Check skid frame and A-arm mounting hardware
for tightness
Check brake lever travel and adjustment
Grease all lubrication points
6
Engine Specifications
4000
ITEM
Engine Model NumberAX50L9
Displacement 499 cc
Bore x Stroke71 x 63
Compression Ratio6.38:1
Cooling SystemLiquid
Ignition Timing (Engine Warm)13° @ 2000 RPM
Spark Plug (NGK)BR9EYA
Spark Plug Gap0.028-0.031”
Piston Skirt/Cylinder Clearance0.0031-0.0041”
Piston Ring End Gap0.008-0.016”
Cylinder Trueness Limit0.004”
Piston Pin Diameter0.8659-0.8661”
Piston Pin Bore Diameter0.8661-0.8665”
Connecting Rod Small End Bore1.0631-1.0634”
Connecting Rod Radial Play 0.0001-0.0008”
Crankshaft Runout (t.i.r.) 0.002”
Crankshaft End Play 0.002-0.004”
Reed Stopper Height0.315”
0.040”
ITEM
Piston Pin Bore Diameter0.8661-0.8665”
Connecting Rod Small End Bore1.0631-1.0634”
Connecting Rod Radial Play 0.0001-0.0008”
Crankshaft Runout (t.i.r.) 0.002”
Crankshaft End Play 0.002-0.004”
Reed Stopper Height0.512”
Crankshaft Runout/
Repair Specifications
To use the specifications, first refer to the drawing; then
find the letter indicating the specification and refer to the
chart below the illustration.
NOTE: The proper location for checking crankshaft
runout is the very edge of the straight portion of the
shaft where the oil seal makes contact. From the illustration, note that three check points are called out: at
either end, out on the taper as shown, and also on the
center bearing race. The crankshaft is still supported
on the outer bearings using V blocks.
6000
ITEM
Engine Number0962-011
Displacement 599 cc
Bore x Stroke73.8 x 70 mm
Compression Ratio6.62:1
Cooling SystemLiquid
Ignition Timing (Engine Warm)16.5° @ 2000
Spark Plug (NGK)BPR9ES
Spark Plug Gap0.028-0.031”
Piston Skirt/Cylinder Clearance0.0041-0.0053”
Piston Ring End Gap0.012-0.0196”
Cylinder Trueness Limit0.004”
Piston Pin Diameter0.8659-0.8661”
Piston Pin Bore Diameter0.8661-0.8665”
Connecting Rod Small End Bore1.0631-1.0634”
Connecting Rod Radial Play 0.0001-0.0008”
Crankshaft Runout (t.i.r.) 0.002”
Crankshaft End Play 0.002-0.004”
Reed Stopper Height0.512”
RPM 0.072”
8000
ITEM
Engine Model NumberAB80L4
Displacement 794 cc
Bore x Stroke85 x 70
Compression Ratio6.62:1
Cooling SystemLiquid
Ignition Timing (Engine Warm)16.5° @ 2000
Spark Plug (NGK)BR9EYA
Spark Plug Gap0.028-0.031”
Piston Skirt/Cylinder Clearance0.0041-0.0053”
Piston Ring End Gap0.012-0.0196”
Cylinder Trueness Limit0.004”
Piston Pin Diameter0.8659-0.8661”
RPM 0.072”
728-144A
Model
40004.515”2.618”4.465”1.062”D
80004.751”2.519”4.645”1.181”D
A
± 0.006B± 0.006C± 0.015
G
Runout D
and F Point
± 0.002
0.196”F 0.196”
0.196”F 0.196”
NOTE: Measure in from the shaft end the specified
amount when checking runout at points D and F. When
checking runout in the center, place indicator on center
of bearing as shown at point E. Maximum runout at any
of the three measuring points is ± 0.002”.
7
6000
NOTE: The crankshaft must be supported on the
inner bearings using V blocks.
0747-810
Arctic Power Valve (APV)
System Specifications
VALVE POSITIONCYCLE RPM
Mid-Open
Full-Open
APV CABLE LENGTH
6000/800036.5 mm ± 1 mm
67-7500 (Low/High Alt)
77-8500 (Low/High Alt)
0735-516
8
Electrical Specifications
ComponentTest Value + Test Connections -
Spark Plug Cap4000-6000 ohmscap endcap end
Oil Level SensorLess than 1 ohm (float end down)terminalterminal
Ignition SwitchLess than 1 ohm (key in OFF position) terminalterminal
The main harness connectors must be unplugged (except on the primary coil and regulator/rectifier tests), the spark
plugs removed and grounded, and by pulling the recoil starter rope briskly.
NOTE: Lighting coil output is unregulated voltage.
! WARNING
Most voltages generated by the ignition system are sufficient to interrupt pacemakers! All technicians, especially
those using pacemakers, must avoid contact with all electrical connections when pulling the recoil starter rope or
after the engine has been started.
A list of Drive System components that are available
through the Arctic Cat Service Parts Department can be
found in the Quick Reference Guide. This information
will be useful when doing any fine-tuning on the drive
system.
ZR LXR
ZR Sno Pro/El Tigre
M Standard
M Sno Pro/HCR/LTD153"/162" 2.6"2-2.25”2-2.25"
XF Standard137"1.25"2-2.25”2-2.25"
XF Cross Country141"1.6"2-2.25”2-2.25”
XF Cross Tour
XF HC
XF Sno Pro
should be @ 20 lb. The track tension on 141”, 153”,
and 162” models should be at 12-15 lb.
Suspension
Specifications
IFP SHOCK ABSORBERS
Below is a list of IFP shock absorbers used on the front
and rear suspensions of Arctic Cat snowmobiles. If
replacing a shock absorber, always select a shock
absorber with the same length, both collapsed and
extended.
SKI
Model
ZR/XF12.59”18.38”5.79”7.00”
M
Model
ZR
XF
M Standard8.10”11.25”3.15”5.01”
Model
ZR LXR10.08”14.37”4.48”0.90”
XF LXR
M Standard
Collapsed
Length
11.32”17.18”6.09”7.00”
FRONT ARM
Collapsed
Length
8.16”11.76”3.71”5.14”
8.56”12.50”3.93”3.97”
REAR ARM
Collapsed
Length
10.32”15.12”4.79”0.89”
11.10”16.00”5.10”5.01”
Extended
Length
Extended
Length
Extended
Length
Stroke
Stroke
Stroke
Piston
Depth
Piston
Depth
Piston
Depth
SPRINGS
SKI SHOCK
Model
ZR/XF
Model
ZR/XF0.312”8.25” 90/250 lb/
M 8000
Model
M Std/XF
REAR ARM (See Illustration Below)
Model
ZR
Wire
Diameter
0.312”13.00” 95 lb/in.10NO
Wire
Diameter
0.295”7.75” 110 lb/in.7.0NO
Wire
Diameter
0.375”13.00” 175 lb/in.10.5NO
Wire
Diameter
.405"90°3.65"6.7518.50”
Free
Length
FRONT ARM
Free
Length
REAR ARM
Free
Length
Angle
(A)
(B)
Rate CoilsTa b
RateCoilsTab
in.
RateCoilsTab
Coil
Width
(C)
9.8NO
Length
Coils
(D)
Torque Conversions
ft-lbN-mft-lbN-mft-lbN-mft-lbN-m
11.42635.45169.476103.4
22.72736.75270.777104.7
34.12838.15372.178106.1
45.42939.45473.479107.4
56.83040.85574.880108.8
68.23142.25676.281110.2
79.53243.55777.582111.5
810.93344.95878.983112.9
912.23446.25980.284114.2
1013.63547.66081.685115.6
11153649618386117
1216.33750.36284.387118.3
1317.73851.76385.788119.7
14193953648789121
1520.44054.46588.490122.4
1621.84155.86689.891123.8
1723.14257.16791.192125.1
1824.54358.56892.593126.5
1925.84459.86993.894127.8
2027.24561.27095.295129.2
2128.64662.67196.696130.6
2229.94763.97297.997131.9
2331.34865.37399.398133.3
2432.64966.674100.699134.6
2534506875102100136
0730-218
13
Torque Specifications
NOTE: Torque specifications have the following tol-
erances:
Torque (ft-lb)Toler ance
0-15±20%
16-39±15%
40+±10%
DRIVE SYSTEM
ItemSecured to
Drive Clutch***Engine51
Drive Clutch CoverMovable Sheave120 in.-lb
Ring Gear*Drive Clutch22
Cam Arm Pin Lock NutCam Arm Pin
Cam Arm Set ScrewCam Arm
Driven Clutch**Driven Shaft
Movable Sheave*Torque Bracket27
Chain Case (Cap Screw)Chassis96 in.-lb
Chain Case (Torx-Head Screw)Chassis
Chain Case CoverChain Case
Brake Caliper Chassis
Outside Caliper HousingInside Caliper Housing
BrakelineCaliper25
BrakelineMaster Cylinder25
Brake CaliperShield Cover
dard)
Handlebar Adjuster (Sno Pro)Post
Steering SupportMounting Block
Steering Tie Rod LinkSteering Post
Steering Tie Rod LinkSteering Arm20
Steering Post CapRiser Block15
Steering PostChassis
Steering Tie RodSteering Arm
Tie RodSpindle Arm
Steering SupportSpar
Steering SupportUpper Console30 in.-lb
Steering ArmChassis8
A-Arm (Upper) (M)Chassis
A-Arm (Upper)Chassis
A-Arm (Lower)Chassis (Front)
A-Arm (Lower)Chassis (Rear)45
A-Arm Spindle45
Shock Absorber (ZR, XF)Spindle32
Shock Absorber (ZR, XF)Chassis
Shock Absorber (M)Spindle
Shock Absorber (M)Chassis
Sway Bar LinkA-Arm/Sway Bar Link23
Sway Bar Mounting BracketChassis9
* w/Green Loctite #609
Post
** w/Blue Loctite #243
*** w/Oil
Tor que
ft-lb
11
19 in.-lb
20
12
12
25
25
96 in.-lb
Torq ue
ft-lb
8
54 in.-lb
15
15
8
35
55
20
32
20
9
23
65
32
24
24
REAR SUSPENSION
ItemSecured to
Tor que
ft-lb
M/XF 141”
Wear StripRail50 in.-lb
End Cap (XF)Rail80 in.-lb
End Cap/Rail Cap Wheel (M)Rail
Mounting BlockRail
Rear Wheel AxleRail
Rear ArmRail20
Idler Arm Rear Arm20
Front ShockRail50
Rear ShockFront Arm/Idler Arm
Rail SupportRail
Front ShockFront Arm
Limiter StrapRail Support72 in.-lb
RailRail Brace12
Rear Tri Hub WheelRear Tri Hub Wheel 50 in.-lb
Rear Shock LinkFront Arm/Idler Arm
Front ArmRail
Skid FrameTunnel
20
12
34
24
20
24
24
52
45
ZR/XF 137”
Wear StripRail
End CapRail
Mounting BlockRail
Rear ArmRail
Rear ArmIdler Arm55
Spring SlideRail20
Front ArmRail
Coupler Block AxleRail
Limiter StrapRail Support
Rear Tri Hub WheelRear Tri Hub Wheel 50 in.-lb
Rear Wheel AxleRail34
Skid FrameTunnel55**
Front ShockRail
Rail SupportRail
Limiter StrapFront Arm
50 in.-lb
80 in.-lb
12
45
52
40
72 in.-lb
50
20
72 in.-lb
14
Steering and Body
This section has been organized into sub-sections for servicing steering and body components; however, some
components may vary from model to model. The technician should use discretion and sound judgment when
removing and installing components.
NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,
cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is necessary.
SPECIAL TOOLS
A number of special tools must be available to the technician when servicing the steering and body systems.
Descriptionp/n
Shock Spring Removal Tool0644-057
Handlebar Stand5639-152
Steering Post Stand5639-946
NOTE: Special tools are available from the Arctic
Cat Service Parts Department.
Steering Post (ZR/XF)
REMOVING
1. Remove the hairpin clip from the pin located at the
front of the access panel. Move the panel up and off
the pin; then swing the panel all the way out and
unhinge the panel from the lower console.
2. Remove all six torx-head screws securing the hood.
XM134A
6. Remove the nut (A) securing the bottom of the existing steering post to the steering stop bracket; then
remove the nut (B) securing the steering tie rod
assembly to the steering post. Discard both nuts.
SNO-2221A
7. Remove the cap screws and handlebar caps securing
the handlebar to the top of the handlebar riser; then
remove the two torx-head screws and nuts securing
the top of steering post to the chassis. Account for
both steering post blocks and retaining plate.
0746-793
3. Locate the hood harness connector (located under the
center vent and between the intake vents) and unplug
the connector; then move the hood slightly forward
and remove the hood.
4. Disconnect the exhaust temperature sensor from the
main harness; then remove all springs securing the
expansion chamber. Remove the expansion chamber.
5. Remove the push rivets securing the right-side steering
boot to the chassis. This allows access to the two nuts
securing the bottom of the steering post.
SNO-357
8. Carefully remove the steering post from the snowmobile.
INSTALLING
1. Install steering post into position and secure to the
steering stop bracket with a new M10 nut. Be sure to
align the steering post ball joint alignment tab
with the steering stop bracket. Tighten to 43 ft-lb.
15
5. Install the expansion chamber using the existing
springs; then connect the exhaust temperature sensor
to the main harness.
6. Position the hood onto the snowmobile and connect
the hood harness connector.
7. Secure the hood with the six torx-head screws and
tighten securely.
8. Install the access panels onto the lower console; then
close the access panels and secure with the clip.
SNO-2218
2. Secure the tie rod assembly to the steering post using
a new M10 nut. Be sure to align the tie rod balljoint alignment tab with the steering post. Tighten
to 35 ft-lb.
SNO-2219
3. Secure the right-side steering boot to the chassis
using the existing push rivets.
Steering Post (XF HC/M)
REMOVING
1. Remove the hairpin clip from the pin located at the
front of the access panel; then unscrew the thumb
screw. Move the panel up and off the pin; then swing
the panel all the way out and unhinge the panel from
the lower console.
0746-800
2. Remove all six torx-head screws securing the hood.
XM134A
4. Secure the top of the steering post to the steering
support using the existing retaining plate and nuts.
Tighten to 96 in.-lb.
SNO-357
16
0746-793
3. Locate the hood harness connector (located under the
center vent between the intake vents) and unplug the
connector; then move the hood slightly forward and
remove the hood.
4. Disconnect the exhaust temperature sensor from the
main harness; then remove all springs securing the
expansion chamber. Remove the expansion chamber.
5. Remove the push rivets securing the right-side steering
boot to the chassis. This allows access to the two nuts
securing the bottom of the steering post.
XM134A
6. Remove the nut (A) securing the bottom of the existing steering post to the steering stop bracket; then
remove the nut (B) securing the steering tie rod
assembly to the steering post. Discard both nuts.
SNO-2221A
7. Remove the torx-head screw and nut securing the tie
rod link to the secondary steering post; then remove
the two machine screws and nuts securing the top of
the secondary steering post to the chassis. Account
for both steering post blocks and retaining plate.
SNO-2225A
10. Remove the two cap screws securing the existing
steering support (C) to the front spar tubes (B); then
remove the two cap screws securing the steering support to the side support tubes (A). Retain all cap
screws and nuts.
SNO-2227A
11. Remove the two cap screws securing the rear portion
of the steering support to the rear spar tubes.
SNO-2226B
8. Carefully remove the secondary steering post from
the snowmobile.
9. Remove and discard the cotter pin (C) and nyloc nut
(B) securing the steering post to the lower steering
support bracket. Account for a thrust washer (A).
XM212A
12. With the telescoping steering assembly removed
from the snowmobile; press down on the adjusting
block until the inner snap ring is exposed. Remove
the snap ring.
17
SNO-739A
13. Remove the retaining ring securing the bottom side
of the steering post; then remove the post from the
steering support. Account for two bearings.
2. Install the adjusting block onto the steering post and
secure using the existing snap ring.
SNO-739A
3. Install the steering post assembly onto the front and
rear spar tubes and into the thrust washer (A) and the
lower steering post support. Secure with a new nyloc
nut (B) and a new cotter pin (C). Tighten to 20 ft-lb
and spread the cotter pin to secure.
SNO-740A
INSPECTING
1. Inspect all welded areas for cracks or deterioration.
2. Inspect the steering post and steering-post retaining
plate for cracks, bends, or wear.
3. Inspect the adjuster caps and mounting block for
cracks or wear.
INSTALLING
1. Insert the telescoping steering post into the steering
support along with two bushings; then secure the
steering post using the existing retaining ring.
SNO-2225A
4. Secure the steering support to the front and rear spar
tubes using the existing cap screws. Tighten to 25 ftlb.
5. Install the secondary steering post into position and
secure to the steering stop bracket with a new M10
nut. Be sure to align the steering post ball joint
alignment tab with the steering stop bracket.
Tighten to 43 ft-lb.
SNO-740A
NOTE: Verify the bushings are properly oriented
(the seam should be centered front to back).
18
SNO-2218
6. Secure the tie rod assembly to the steering post using
a new M10 nut. Be sure to align the tie rod balljoint alignment tab with the steering post. Tighten
to 35 ft-lb.
SNO-2219
7. Secure the right-side steering boot to the chassis
using the existing push rivets.
0747-617
12. Install the upper and lower console; then install the
gas tank and seat using the existing hardware.
13. Install the hood and both access panels.
Ski
REMOVING
1. Elevate the front of the snowmobile and secure on a
support stand.
2. Remove and discard the cotter pin; then remove the
nut and cap screw securing the ski to the spindle.
XM134A
8. Secure the top of the steering post to the steering
support using the existing retaining plate and new
nuts (A). Tighten to 96 in.-lb.
SNO-2226A
9. Connect the tie rod (B) from the adjustable steering
post to the secondary steering post using the machine
screw and nut. Tighten to 20 ft-lb.
10. Install the expansion chamber using the existing
springs; then connect the exhaust temperature sensor
to the main harness.
11. Position the handlebar to the desired position; then
secure using the existing cap and all eight screws.
Tighten evenly to 15 ft-lb.
NOTE: Note the orientation of the damper for instal-
lation purposes.
3. Remove the ski. Account for the rubber damper and
washers.
INSPECTING
1. Inspect the ski for cracks or deterioration.
2. Inspect the ski for abnormal bends or cracks.
3. Inspect the wear bar for wear.
4. Inspect all hardware and the spindle bushings for
wear and damage.
5. Inspect the rubber damper for damage or wear.
INSTALLING
1. Slide a washer onto the cap screw used to secure the
ski; then apply all-temperature grease to the shaft
portion of the cap screw and spindle axle.
2. Install the spindle axle into the spindle; then position
the ski damper into the bottom of the ski making sure
the damper is properly positioned for the desired ski
stance.
NOTE: On the ZR 4000 RR, there are two spacers
installed onto the spindle axle.
19
0746-796
REMOVING
1. Raise the front of the snowmobile and secure with a
suitable stand.
2. Remove the lock nuts securing the wear bar to the
ski; then remove the wear bar.
INSTALLING
1. Install the wear bar into the ski making sure it is fully
seated using a rubber mallet.
2. Secure the wear bar with lock nuts. Tighten to 96 in.lb.
Spindle
REMOVING
0746-797
NOTE: The ski damper must be positioned in the ski
so it is directly under the spindle.
3. With the cap screw hole of the ski centered with the
spindle axle, slide the cap screw with washer through
the outside of the ski and spindle assemblies.
NOTE: Local laws and/or regulations as to maxi-
mum width of the ski stance may be applicable.
Always comply with the maximum width laws and/or
regulations when adjusting ski stance.
NOTE: Install the cap screw so the lock nut will be
located to the inside of the ski and the cotter pin slot
in the cap screw will be horizontal with the ski.
4. Install the remaining washer and lock nut; then
tighten the lock nut to 35 ft-lb.
NOTE: Assure that the cotter pin slot in the cap
screw is still horizontal with the ski (see illustration);
then proceed to step 5.
5. Install a new cotter pin from the back side of the ski
cap screw and spread the pin.
Ski Wear Bar
The ski wear bar is a replaceable bar attached to the
underside of the ski. If the snowmobile is operated primarily in deep snow, ski wear bar wear will be minimal;
however, if the snowmobile is operated on terrain where
the snow cover is minimal, the ski wear bar will wear
faster. Arctic Cat recommends that the ski wear bars be
replaced if worn to 1/2 of original diameter.
0747-904
1. Position the front of the snowmobile on a safety
stand; then remove the ski.
2. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the
shock absorber to the spindle.
3. Remove the lock nut securing the tie rod to the spindle arm. Account for the washer on the top side.
4. Remove the two lock nuts securing the spindle to the
upper and lower A-arms; then using a rubber mallet,
remove the arms from the spindle.
5. Remove the spindle.
INSPECTING
1. Inspect the spindle for excessive wear, cracks, bends,
or imperfections.
2. Inspect the A-arm bushings and axle area for wear.
3. Inspect the ski spindle axle and bearings for wear,
damage, or loose fit. Replace the bearings as a set.
NOTE: Replacing the ski bolt bushings is difficult.
The existing bushings will be damaged during
removal. Be careful, however, not to damage the spindle when removing the bushings. Press the new
bushings into the spindle.
20
INSTALLING
0747-904
1. Place the shock absorber into position on the spindle.
Secure with the cap screw and lock nut. Tighten to
32 ft-lb for ZR and XF models. Tighten to 24 ft-lb
for M models.
2. Install the upper and lower A-arms into the spindle;
then remove the snowmobile from the support stand.
Secure with new lock nuts. Tighten to 45 ft-lb.
NOTE: The weight of the snowmobile will allow the
ball joints to seat into the spindle before tightening
the nuts.
SNO-353
3. Slide the steering tie rod out of the steering boot and
out of the snowmobile.
4. Remove the screw and lock nut securing the steering
tie rod end to the steering arm. Discard the nut.
3. Place the tie rod with washer into position on the
spindle arm. Secure with a new lock nut. Tighten to
32 ft-lb.
4. Install the ski.
5. Turn the handlebar fully to the right and then to the
left to verify the steering moves freely.
Steering Tie Rod
NOTE: To access the steering arm, the steering tie
rods must be removed.
REMOVING
1. Remove both machine screws and nyloc nuts securing the steering tie rod ends to the steering arm. Discard both nuts.
SNO-350
5. Remove the lock nut securing the steering tie rod to
the steering post. Discard the nut.
SNO-351
NOTE: At this point if the technician’s objective is to
remove the steering arm, the reinforcement bracket
will need to be removed by drilling out the appropriate rivets.
SNO-349
2. Remove the nyloc nuts securing the steering tie rod
ends to the spindle arms. Account for the washers
and discard both nuts.
6. Remove all torx-head screws securing the front skid
plate to the chassis; then remove the cap screw and
nut securing the steering arm to the chassis. Account
for two washers and two bushings.
21
SNO-225A
INSPECTING
1. Inspect the ball joints for damaged threads or wear.
2. Inspect the tie rod for damage, unusual bends, or
wear.
INSTALLING
1. Secure steering arm into position and secure using
the existing cap screw, flat washers, and nut. Tighten
to 96 in.-lb.
SNO-225A
2. Place the steering tie rod into position on the steering
post. Secure with a new nyloc nut. Tighten to 35 ftlb.
SNO-350
4. Slide the steering tie rod through the steering boot
and into the snowmobile; then place the steering tie
rod into the spindle arm with the washer. Secure
with a new nyloc nut. Tighten to 32 ft-lb.
SNO-353
5. Secure the steering tie rod to the steering tie rod
bracket with the screw and new nyloc nut. Tighten to
20 ft-lb.
SNO-351
NOTE: Make sure the tie rod tab is fully seated into
the steering post and threads of the ball joint are
above the nut when tightened correctly.
3. Place the tie rod end into position on the steering tie
rod bracket. Secure with a new nyloc nut. Tighten to
20 ft-lb.
22
SNO-349
Ski Alignment
CHECKING
NOTE: Track tension and alignment must be properly
adjusted prior to checking or adjusting ski alignment.
Ski alignment must be performed on a flat, level surface.
Ski toe-out must fall within the range of 1/16-1/4 in.
1. Raise the front end of snowmobile just high enough
to keep the skis from contacting the floor.
2. Turn the handlebar to the straight-ahead position.
Visually inspect the handlebar for being centered and
in the straight-ahead position.
3. With the handlebar in the straight-ahead position,
secure the handlebar to prevent the alignment from
becoming disturbed during the remainder of the
alignment procedure.
NOTE: Track tension and alignment must be prop-
erly adjusted prior to placing the straightedge against
the outside edge of the track.
4. Place a long straightedge against the outside edge of the
track so it lies near the inside edge of the left-side ski.
729-887B
NOTE: The straightedge should be long enough to
extend from the back of the track to the front of the ski.
5. Measure the distance from the straightedge to the
left-side ski wear bar bolts in two places: approximately 7-8 in. in front of the spindle and 7-8 in.
behind the spindle. Record the measurements taken
for the left side.
0734-408
6. Place the straightedge against the outside edge of the
track so it lies near the inside edge of the right-side ski.
7. Measure the distance from the straightedge to the
right-side ski wear bar bolts in two places: 7-8 in. in
front of the spindle and 7-8 in. behind the spindle.
Record the measurements taken for the right side.
! WARNING
The measurement from the front and rear wear bar
bolts to the straightedge can be equal (ski parallel to
the track), but the front measurement must never be
less (ski toed-in) or poor handling will be experienced.
The front wear bar bolt measurement to the straightedge must not exceed the measurement from the rear
wear bar bolt to the straightedge (ski toed-out) by
more than 5/32 in.
8. If ski alignment is not as specified, adjust the alignment of the ski(s) not parallel to the straightedge.
ADJUSTING
NOTE: The following procedure can be used to
adjust the alignment of either ski.
729-887A
NOTE: The rivets securing the steering boots will
have to be removed in order to adjust the inner tie rod
ends.
1. Secure the steering tie rod in the centered position.
2. Loosen both spindle tie rod jam nuts on the same
side as the ski to be aligned.
3. Using a wrench on the spindle tie rod “flats,” rotate
the spindle tie rod until recommended specification
is attained.
4. Apply blue Loctite #243 to each jam nut thread area;
then tighten the jam nuts against the spindle tie rod.
NOTE: Repeat this procedure on each side (if nec-
essary) until ski toe-out is within specification.
! WARNING
Neglecting to lock the tie rod by tightening the jam
nuts may cause loss of snowmobile control and possible personal injury.
23
VERIFYING
1. With the handlebar in the straight-ahead position, verify ski alignment by measuring across from the outside
edge of the left-side wear bar bolts to the outside edge
of the right-side wear bar bolts (without using the
straightedge) in two places: approximately 7-8 in. in
front of the spindle and 7-8 in. behind the spindle.
2. The measurement from in front of the spindle to the
outer edge of the wear bar bolts (without using the
straightedge) must not exceed the rear measurement
by more than 1/16-1/4 in. toe-out.
0734-408
! WARNING
The measurement taken in front of the spindle must never
be less than the measurement taken behind the spindle or
poor handling will be experienced. Neglecting to lock the
tie rod by tightening the jam nuts may cause loss of snowmobile control and possible personal injury.
5. Remove the two lock nuts securing the spindle to the
A-arms; then using a rubber mallet, remove the arms
from the spindle. Discard the nuts.
SNO-354
6. On the ZR/XF, remove the cap screw and lock nut
securing the sway bar link to the lower arm. Discard
the nut.
A-Arms
REMOVING
1. Elevate the front of the snowmobile and secure using
a suitable support stand.
2. Remove the push rivets securing the steering boot to the
chassis; then slide the boot away from the snowmobile.
XM134A
3. Remove the torx-head screws securing the front skid
plate to the chassis; then remove the front skid plate.
4. Remove the ski shock absorber.
XM135
7. Remove the two cap screws and nyloc nuts securing
the lower arm to the chassis; then slide the boot from
the arm and remove the arm.
SNO-226A
8. Remove the two cap screws and lock nuts securing
the upper arm to the chassis. Discard the nuts.
INSPECTING
1. Inspect the arm welded areas for cracks or any signs
of deterioration.
2. Inspect the bearings and axles for wear or damage.
3. Inspect the arm tubing for signs of twisting or bending.
24
4. Inspect mounting location of the chassis for cracks or
wear.
INSTALLING
1. Place the upper arm into position on the chassis and
secure with the cap screws and new nyloc nuts.
Tighten to 23 ft-lb.
2. Slide the lower arm into the boot; then place the arm
into position on the chassis. Secure with the cap
screws and new nyloc nuts and tighten to 55 ft-lb
(front) and 45 ft-lb (rear).
PC095A
3. On the ZR/XF, secure the sway bar link to the lower
arm with the cap screw and new nyloc nut. Tighten
to 23 ft-lb.
NOTE: Note the number of threads exposed
between the spring adjuster and shock housing for
installing purposes.
3. Using the Shock Spring Removal Tool, remove the
spring from the shock body by compressing the
spring; then remove the spring retainer from the top
of the spring. Inspect the shock absorber by quickly
compressing and extending the shock plunger while
firmly holding the shock body. Resistance must be
felt in both directions.
CLEANING AND INSPECTING
1. Inspect the shock absorber seal area for signs of
excessive oil leakage.
2. Inspect the shock absorber mounting eyelet, bushings, and sleeve for wear or damage.
3. Inspect the threaded shock sleeve for damage or
wear. Clean the sleeve and apply a light coat of
grease to the threads before installing.
INSTALLING
1. Using the shock spring tool, place the spring on the
shock absorber and secure with the retainer.
2. Adjust the retainer nut (spring adjuster) (if applicable) until the specified amount of threads are
exposed between the spring adjuster and the shock
housing (noted in removing) as an initial setting.
XM135
4. Secure the A-arms to the spindle.
5. Install the ski shock absorber.
6. Place the front skid plate into position; then secure with
the torx-head screws.
Ski Shock Absorber
REMOVING
1. Position the front of the snowmobile on a safety
stand taking all pressure off the skis.
2. Remove the cap screws securing the shock absorber to
the chassis and spindle; then remove the shock
absorber. Account for all mounting hardware.
3. Install the bushings, sleeves, and spacers into each
shock end; then place the shock absorber into position and secure with the cap screws and lock nuts.
Tighten the lock nuts to 32 ft-lb.
Sway Bar (ZR/XF)
REMOVING
1. Remove the nyloc nuts and cap screws securing the
sway bar link to the lower A-arm and the sway bar.
XM135
2. Remove the torx-head screws securing the sway bar
mounting brackets; then pull the sway bar out of the
snowmobile.
INSPECTING
1. Inspect the sway bar for any signs of twisting,
fatigue, or wear.
25
2. Inspect the sway bar arms for cracks or damage.
3. Inspect the links, bushings, bushing retainers, and
hardware for damage or wear.
INSTALLING
1. Place the sway bar into the sway bar mounting
brackets; then install the sway bar into the snowmobile. Secure with the torx-head screws and tighten to
96 in.-lb.
2. Secure the sway bar links to the sway bar and lower Aarm with the cap screws and new nyloc nuts. Tighten to
23 ft-lb.
SNO-227A
Front Bumper
REMOVING/INSTALLING
1. Remove all torx-head screws securing the front bumper; then remove the bumper.
2. With the bumper in position, install all torx-head
screws. Tighten securely.
Seat Assembly
(ZR/XF/M STD)
REMOVING/INSTALLING SEAT
NOTE: On LXR/LTD models, be sure to disconnect
the seat heater harness before removing the seat.
1. Remove the cap screw securing the rear of the seat;
then remove the seat.
NOTE: On LXR/LTD models prior to lowering and
securing the seat, connect the seat heater harness
connector.
REMOVING CUSHION
1. Remove the seat assembly.
2. Using a sharp tool, pry out all staples securing the
seat cover to the plastic seat base.
3. From beneath the seat foam, remove the seat wire
from the two elastic loops; then remove the cover
from the seat base and seat foam.
INSTALLING CUSHION
1. Position the cover over the seat foam and seat base;
then pull the two elastic loops through the slots in the
seat foam and secure with the seat wire. Check to
make sure it is positioned straight.
2. Fold the rear edge of the cushion down and around
the plastic base. Using a staple gun and 1/4 in. staples, staple the rear flap of the cushion to the plastic
base in the same areas as the original staples were
located. Position staples 1 in. apart.
3. Fold the sides of the cushion down around the bottom edge of the plastic seat base. Position the staples
in the same area as the original staples were located.
SNO-261A
2. Route the front tab on the seat through the seat-base
hold-down bracket; then install the seat and secure
using the cap screw.
26
NOTE: Note the cushion fit. If any wrinkles are
noted, remove by pulling the cushion material in the
appropriate direction before securing with staples.
4. Fold the front cushion material back and onto the
plastic seat base. Check for wrinkles and secure with
staples and two screws.
5. Install the seat assembly.
Seat Assembly
(M Sno Pro/HCR/LTD)
REMOVING/INSTALLING
1. Remove both torx-head screws from the side of the
seat; then remove the four tabs from the seat base
from the lower console. Pull back and remove the
seat cover and foam.
0747-530
2. Position the seat foam into the seat cover by first
aligning the front of the foam with the front of the
seat base/cover (A); then wrap the rear of the seat
base/cover over the rear of the seat foam (B). Cover
the sides of the seat foam with the seat base/cover
and secure using the velcro strap.
Taillight/Brakelight
Assembly
1. Remove the two machine screws securing the taillight to the taillight support; then disconnect the taillight harness connector.
SNO-511
2. Connect the taillight harness connector; then secure
the taillight to the taillight support with the two
screws. Tighten to 48 in.-lb.
SNO-1203A
3. Remove the backing from the installation bag (p/n
1655-841); then adhere it to the gas tank making sure
the bag covers the velcro on the gas tank.
SNO-1206
4. Slide the rear of the seat cover with foam over the
rear of the gas tank; then slide the four tabs into the
four holes in the lower console and secure to the tunnel using two self-tapping screws. Do not over
tighten.
NOTE: To ease the installation of the seat cover,
carefully pry up the rear of the gas tank so the seat
cover can easily slide around the rear of the gas tank.
Rear Bumper/Snowflap
REMOVING BUMPER
1. Remove and retain only the two machine screws
securing the rear of the skid frame assembly.
2. Place cardboard or a suitable substitute on the floor to
protect the snowmobile from being scratched; then
install Steering Post Stand for the standard steering models or Handlebar Stand for the adjustable steering models
into the lower holes in the handlebar riser (from the leftside) and tip the snowmobile onto its left side.
CAUTION
The stand must be used when tipping the snowmobile
onto the right side. Failure to use the stand may damage the oil fill neck.
3. Swing the skid frame assembly away from the chassis;
then using a 3/16-in. drill bit, remove all rivets securing
the left-side of the bumper; then repeat for opposite side.
4. Remove and retain the two machine screws and nuts
securing the front of the existing bumper to the chassis.
5. Remove the two rivets securing the snowflap to the
bumper. Remove the bumper.
INSTALLING BUMPER
1. Align the holes in the bumper with the existing holes
in the tunnel; then using new rivets, secure rear bumper to the tunnel; then secure the snowflap to the rear
bumper using new rivets.
27
2. Secure the front of the bumper to the chassis using
the existing machine screws and nuts. Tighten
securely.
3. Install skid frame assembly using two existing
machine screws. Tighten securely.
REMOVING SNOWFLAP
1. Drill out the four rivets securing the snowflap to the
tunnel; then remove the torx-head screw and nut.
2. Remove the snowflap.
INSTALLING SNOWFLAP
1. Secure the snowflap to the tunnel with the torx-head
screw and nut.
2. Add the appropriate rivets to secure the snowflap to
the tunnel.
Windshield/Console/
Headlight
REMOVING
1. Remove and retain all machine screws securing the
hood; then disconnect the console harness and carefully remove the hood assembly.
2. Remove the four screws securing the windshield to
the console; then remove the windshield.
3. Remove the four screws securing the windshield
brace to the console. Disconnect the gauge; then
remove the windshield brace assembly.
PC108
PC106A
7. Loosen the two side headlight assembly screws (A);
then remove the two front headlight assembly screws
(B).
PC104A
4. Disconnect the electrical accessory wires and ignition switch.
5. Remove the two screws securing the rear of the console to the hood.
6. Lift the front of the console from the headlight
assembly; then disengage the side console tabs and
remove the console.
28
PC107A
8. Remove the headlight assembly.
INSTALLING
1. With the headlight assembly in position, install the
front headlight assembly screws. Engage the side
headlight screws in the slots and tighten until snug.
2. Engage the side console tabs on the headlight assembly; then place the front of the console over the headlight assembly and press down until it snaps in place.
3. Install the two screws securing the rear of the console to the hood. Tighten only until snug.
4. Place the windshield brace assembly into position
and secure to the console with the four screws.
Tighten until snug.
5. Connect the gauge; then connect the electrical accessory wires and the ignition switch.
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