NOTE: General specifications for each 2017 Arctic
Cat Snowmobile can be accessed from the Arctic Cat
Cat Tracker Dealer Communication System online.
NOTE: Some illustrations and photographs used in
this section are used for clarity purposes only and are
not designed to depict actual conditions.
This Arctic Cat Service Manual contains service and maintenance information for certain Model Year 2017 Arctic
Cat Snowmobiles (see cover). The manual is designed to
aid service personnel in service-oriented applications.
This manual is divided into sections. The sections cover
specific snowmobile components or systems and, in
addition to the standard service procedures, includes
assembling, disassembling, and inspecting instructions.
When using this manual as a guide, the technician should
use discretion as to how much disassembly is needed to
correct any given condition.
The service technician should become familiar with the
operation and construction of the components or systems
by carefully studying the complete manual. This will
assist the service technician in becoming more aware of
and efficient with servicing procedures. Such efficiency
not only helps build consumer confidence but also saves
time and labor.
Snowmobile Identification
The Arctic Cat Snowmobile has two important identification numbers. The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
is stamped into the tunnel near the right-side footrest.
The decal also displays pertinent production information.
The Engine Serial Number (ESN) is stamped into the
crankcase of the engine.
These numbers are required to complete warranty claims properly. No warranty will be allowed by Arctic Cat if the engine
serial number or VIN is removed or mutilated in any way.
Recommended Gasoline
and Oil
CAUTION
Do not use white gas or gasoline containing methanol.
Only Arctic Cat approved gasoline additives should be
used.
RECOMMENDED GASOLINE
4000
The recommended gasoline to use is 87 octane regular
unleaded. In many areas, oxygenates are added to the
gasoline. Oxygenated gasolines containing up to 10%
ethanol are acceptable gasolines.
All Arctic Cat publications and snowmobile decals display the words Warning, Caution, and Note to emphasize
important information. The symbol ! WARNING
identifies personal safety-related information. Be sure to
follow the directive because it deals with the possibility
of severe personal injury or even death. A CAUTION
identifies unsafe practices which may result in snowmobile-related damage. Follow the directive because it deals
with the possibility of damaging part or parts of the
snowmobile. The symbol NOTE: identifies supple-
mentary information worthy of particular attention.
At the time of publication, all information, photographs,
and illustrations were technically correct. Some photographs and illustrations used in this manual are used for
clarity purposes only and are not designed to depict actual
conditions. Because Arctic Cat Inc. constantly refines and
improves its products, no retroactive obligation is incurred.
All materials and specifications are subject to change
without notice.
Product Service and Warranty Department
Arctic Cat Inc.
When using ethanol blended gasoline, it is not necessary
to add a gasoline antifreeze since ethanol will prevent the
accumulation of moisture in the fuel system.
6000/8000
The recommended gasoline to use is 91 octane (minimum).
NOTE: If a situation arises in which 91 octane gaso-
line is not available, 87 octane gasoline can be substituted; however, do not prolong the usage of 87 octane
gasoline as it will cause poor engine performance.
In many areas, oxygenates are added to the gasoline.
Oxygenated gasolines containing up to 10% ethanol are
acceptable gasolines.
RECOMMENDED OIL
CAUTION
Any oil used in place of the recommended oil may
cause serious damage.
4000
The recommended oil to use in the oil-injection system is
Arctic Cat Formula 50 Oil (p/n 5639-475 - qt) or (p/n
5639-476 - gal.). This oil is specially formulated to be
used and meets all of the lubrication requirements of the
Arctic Cat C-TEC2 snowmobile engine.
2
6000
The recommended oil to use in the oil-injection system is
Arctic Cat C-TEC2 Synthetic 2-Cycle Oil (p/n 6639-520
- 48 oz) This oil is specially formulated to be used and
meets all of the lubrication requirements of the Arctic Cat
C-TEC2 snowmobile engine.
8000
The recommended oil to use in the oil-injection system is
either Arctic Cat APV Synthetic 2-Cycle Oil (p/n
4639-349 - qt) or (p/n 5639-469 - gal.) or C-TEC2 Synthetic Oil (p/n 6639-520 - 48 oz.). These oils are specially
formulated to be used either as an injection oil or as a
pre-mix oil (for break-in) and meets all of the lubrication
requirements of the Arctic Cat snowmobile engine.
CAUTION
Any oil used in place of the recommended oil could
cause serious engine damage.
Engine Break-In
Drive Belt Break-In
Drive belts require a break-in period of 25 miles. Drive
the snowmobile for 25 miles at 3/4 throttle or less. By
revving the engine up and down (but not exceeding 60
mph), the exposed cord on the side of a new belt will be
worn down. This will allow the drive belt to gain its optimum flexibility and will extend drive belt life.
NOTE: Before starting the snowmobile in extremely
cold temperatures, the drive belt should be removed
and warmed up to room temperature. Once the drive
belt is at room temperature, install the drive belt (see
Drive Belt sub-section in the Drive Train/Track/Brake
Systems section of this manual).
CAUTION
Running the engine with the drive belt removed could
result in serious engine damage and drive clutch failure.
4000/8000
The Arctic Cat engine (when new or rebuilt) requires a
short break-in period before the engine is subjected to
heavy load conditions. Arctic Cat requires that the first
tankful of fuel be premixed at a 100:1 ratio in all
oil-injection models.
CAUTION
DO NOT exceed the one (1) tankful limitation of a 100:1
gas/oil break-in mixture. Continuous use of a gas/oil
mixture could cause spark plug fouling and excessive
carbon buildup.
During the break-in period, a maximum of 1/2 throttle is
recommended; however, brief full-throttle accelerations
and variations in driving speeds contribute to good
engine break-in.
6000
The engine requires a short break-in period before the
engine is subjected to heavy load conditions.
When the snowmobile is new (0 hours), in addition to the
increased fuel and oil ratio, the ECM will limit the engine
to 6500 RPM for the first 18 minutes of the engine's run
time. The engine must be running above idle for the
break-in time (of 18 minutes) to begin.
After the first 18 minutes, the rev limit will be eliminated
but a greater fuel and oil ratio will continue through the
first two hours of engine run time.
Premixing fuel and oil during the break in period is not
required. With the oil delivery control strategy of the
electronic oil pump, the pump will automatically compensate and deliver a richer fuel-to-oil ratio during the
engine break-in period.
Genuine Parts
When replacement of parts is necessary, use only genuine
Arctic Cat parts. They are precision-made to ensure high
quality and correct fit.
Varying Altitude Operation
Operating a snowmobile at varying altitudes requires
recalibration of drive system components. Consult the
appropriate specification sheet on Cat Tracker Online.
Following are basic altitude theories for clutching,
engine, suspension, and track.
CLUTCHING
On a normally-aspirated engine as altitude changes,
engine horsepower changes with it. As you go up in altitude, the engine loses horsepower. Because of this, the
continuously variable transmission (CVT) system needs
to be calibrated to compensate for the horsepower loss.
At altitudes above 5000 ft, the engine loses peak horsepower but will also lose horsepower at engagement
speed. For this reason, calibrating the drive system is
usually needed in order to attain acceptable performance.
Changing drive clutch engagement speed can be done
several ways. Some of the methods will affect other characteristics of CVT operation, so you must be careful what
you change. Drive clutch springs are the most common
way to increase engagement speed; however, by simply
changing the cam arms to a lighter weight from the
heavier sea level cam arm, you will gain some engagement speed.
3
The driven clutch will also play a part in CVT tuning for
high altitude operation. A steeper helix (torque bracket)
angle in the driven clutch will mean a quicker up-shift. A
shallower angle will mean a slower up-shift. If the
up-shift is too quick, due to a very steep helix, RPM will
be pulled down under the peak operating RPM of the
engine (where the horsepower is) and performance will
suffer. The engine may even bog.
ENGINE
A normally aspirated engine will generate more horsepower at sea level than it does at higher altitudes. The
reason is that the higher you go, less oxygen is available
for the engine to use during its combustion process. Less
oxygen means it needs less fuel to obtain the correct
air/fuel ratio to operate properly. This is why the fuel
ratio has to be recalibrated. High altitude engines operate
as though they have a lower compression ratio. This,
along with less oxygen and less fuel, means that the
engine generates less horsepower. All of these characteristics will become more evident the higher the altitude.
SUSPENSION
The different riding styles of the individual operator, the
varying snow conditions, and the type of terrain are all
factors that affect the suspension at high altitude. Trail
riding versus powder snow riding versus combination
riding will all require different suspension settings.
The normal setting for front ski suspension is as little spring
pre-load tension as possible for powder snow riding allowing the skis to float across the snow with the least amount
of resistance. Trail riding will require more spring tension
to carry the varying load more effectively. Many different
settings and spring tensions to consider exist when adjusting for riding style and snow conditions.
The rear suspension has a number of spring settings that
produce different riding characteristics.
The front arm spring and shock will also affect the ride
and handling when either on a trail or in powder snow. A
strong spring setting on this shock will cause the snowmobile to tend to “dig” more when riding in the powder
snow rather than climbing up on top of the snow. But, it
will work more effectively when riding on a trail. A
softer spring setting will allow the front of the rear suspension to collapse much quicker and change the angle of
the track to the snow. A more gradual angle will tend to
raise the snowmobile up on the snow rather than digging
into it.
Many possible variables and adjustments to the rear suspension exist depending on snow conditions, riding style,
and type of terrain. These adjustments can be made to
individualize the snowmobile to the riding style of the
operator.
As snow cover and riding conditions change, several different adjustments can be made to change the ride and
handling characteristics for operator preference. Located
on the front suspension arm are limiter straps. They limit
the amount of “fallout” the front arm can have. These
straps may be adjusted in or out due to conditions and
riding style. The more the straps are brought up, the more
steering power the operator has due to the amount of ski
pressure.
Another adjustment that can be made on the rear suspension is the front arm shock spring tension. As trail conditions change, the spring pre-load may be used to decrease
the chance of the front end “bottoming out.” With a
stiffer spring pre-load, the ride of the snowmobile will
improve on the trail but will affect the performance in the
deep powder snow. In deep powder snow, the stiffer
spring pre-load will cause the front-end to “dig” and possibly take longer for it to plane off. Several different-rate
springs are available for different riding styles and terrain
conditions.
On the standard models, the front shock springs are also
individually adjustable for the terrain conditions and
driving style of the operator. The spring adjuster has been
set at the factory so the correct amount of threads are
exposed between the spring adjuster and the shock housing as an initial setting. Additional ski pressure can be
obtained by tightening the spring tension; ski pressure
can be decreased by relaxing spring tension. Springs with
different spring rates are available for operator choice
and snow conditions.
A limit exists as to how far you can pre-load the springs
before “coil bind” takes effect where the wire on the
spring actually runs into itself and causes binding. Equal
adjustments should be maintained on both sides of the
snowmobile. On models with float shocks, they are individually adjustable for the terrain conditions and driving
style of the operator. The shocks are preset at the factory
(see chart) as an initial setting; however, it is possible to
“fine tune” the shocks to match the operator’s weight,
riding style, and terrain conditions.
Initial Setting Chart
Model
Fox Float 3
Fox Float 3 Evol
Front Shock
(Ski)
95 psiN/A130 psi
90 psi (Main
Chamber)
150 psi (Evol
Chamber)
Front Arm
Shock
50 psi (Main
Chamber)
125 psi (Evol
Chamber)
Rear Arm
Shock
150 psi (Main
Chamber)
250 psi (Evol
Chamber)
Checking and adjusting air pressure must be done at riding temperature (outside) and shocks are at full extension
with no weight on the shock. Also, it is advisable to
check air pressure when the outside temperature varies
more than 25°.
NOTE: Care should be taken to have equal pressure
in the ski shocks before operating the snowmobile.
Finally, track tension should be looked at to make sure
that it is within recommended specifications to affect the
efficiency of the snowmobile. On models with the torque
sensing link, the track is actually tightening as the suspension moves through its range of motion causing the
track to sag in the middle and rub on the top part of the
rear suspension arm.
TRACK
Carefully matching the riding requirements to the type of
track will ensure the maximum use of all available engine
power. Lug height and track durometer are the two main
concerns when selecting a track for various riding styles.
4
Tracks exist with lug heights from 1.0” up to 3.0” to
accommodate various snow conditions. Generally, the
deeper the snow, the taller the lug. It must be noted that
the installation of any deep-lug track may reduce top end
speed and promote premature wear strip wear in marginal
snow conditions.
Durometer is a measurement of how hard a rubber is. The
lugs on most tracks range between 60 and 85 durometer.
On the durometer scale, the higher the number, the harder
the lugs. For riding in deep powder snow, a softer durometer track works best. The softer rubber allows the track
to “give” a little and pack the snow creating lift rather
than digging its way straight down. When hill-climbing,
the harder lug of an 80 durometer track works the best
due to penetrating the hard snow creating more bite.
Some tracks come with a dual durometer rating, such as a
track with a 80/60 durometer rating. The lugs on this track
are 80% 80 durometer rubber, and the top 20% is made of
the softer 60 durometer rubber. This track is designed to be
a good all-around track for riding mostly in deep powder
snow but can climb the occasional hard snow hill.
Preparation For Storage
Prior to storing the snowmobile, it must be properly serviced to prevent corrosion and component deterioration.
1. Clean the seat cushion with a damp cloth and Arctic
Cat Vinyl Protectant.
2. Clean the snowmobile thoroughly by hosing dirt, oil,
grass, and other foreign matter from the skid frame,
tunnel, hood, and belly pan. Allow the snowmobile
to dry thoroughly. DO NOT get water into any part
of the engine.
3. Place the rear of the snowmobile up on a shielded
safety stand; then start the engine and allow to idle.
Spray an Engine Storage Preserver into the intakes
until the engine exhaust starts to smoke heavily or
until the engine starts to drop in RPM. Turn engine
off. Install the intake boots.
CAUTION
Do not run the engine without the belt guard in place
and secured.
4. Plug the exhaust system outlet with a clean cloth.
5. With the ignition switch in the OFF position:
A. Disconnect the high tension leads from the spark
plugs; then remove the plugs, connect them to the
leads, and ground them on the cylinder heads.
6. Fill the gas tank to its rated capacity; then add Arctic
Cat Fuel Stabilizer to the gas tank following directions on the container for the stabilizer/gasoline
ratio. Tighten the gas tank cap securely.
7. With the snowmobile level, check the lubricant level
in the chain case. If low, add chain lube through the
fill plug hole.
8. Remove the drive belt from the drive clutch/driven
clutch. Lay the belt on a flat surface or slide it into a
cardboard sleeve to prevent warping or distortion
during storage; then clean and inspect the drive
clutch and driven clutch.
9. Apply light oil to the upper steering post bushings and
to the shafts of the shock absorbers; then lubricate the
rear suspension with an all-temperature grease.
10. Tighten all nuts, bolts, and cap screws making sure all
calibrated nuts, bolts, and cap screws are tightened to
specifications. Make sure all rivets holding the components together are tight. Replace all loose rivets.
11. Clean and polish the hood, console, and chassis with
Cat Cleaner. DO NOT USE SOLVENTS. THE PROPELLENT WILL DAMAGE THE FINISH.
12. On electric start models, disconnect the battery
cables making sure to disconnect the negative cable
first; then clean the battery posts and cables.
CAUTION
Sealed batteries require charging if left for extended
non-start periods. Arctic Cat recommends trickle
charging once a month. Follow the manufacturer’s
instructions and cautions.
13. If possible, store the snowmobile indoors. Raise the
track off the floor by blocking up the back end making sure the snowmobile is secure. Loosen the track
adjusting bolts to reduce track tension. Cover the
snowmobile with a machine cover or a heavy, ventilated tarpaulin to protect it from dirt and dust.
14. If the snowmobile must be stored outdoors, position
the snowmobile out of direct sunlight; then block the
entire snowmobile off the ground making sure the
snowmobile is secure. Loosen the track adjusting
bolts to reduce track tension. Cover with a machine
cover or a heavy, ventilated tarpaulin to protect it
from dirt, dust, and rain.
CAUTION
Avoid storing in direct sunlight and using a plastic
cover as moisture may collect on the snowmobile causing corrosion.
CAUTION
Never crank the engine over without grounding the
spark plugs. Damage to coils and/or ECM may result.
B. Pour 29.5 ml (1 fl oz) of SAE #30 petroleum-based
oil into each spark plug hole and pull the recoil
starter handle slowly about 10 times.
C. Install the spark plugs and connect the high tension leads.
Preparation After Storage
Taking the snowmobile out of storage and correctly preparing it for another season will assure many miles and
hours of trouble-free snowmobiling. Arctic Cat recommends the following procedure:
1. Clean the snowmobile thoroughly. Polish the exterior
of the snowmobile.
5
2. Clean the engine. Remove the cloth from the exhaust
system. Check exhaust system and air silencer for
obstructions.
3. Inspect all control wires and cables for signs of wear
or fraying. Replace if necessary. Use cable ties or
tape to route wires and cables away from hot or rotating parts.
4. Inspect the drive belt for cracks and tears. Check belt
specifications. Replace if damaged or worn. Install
the drive belt.
NOTE: If the old belt is worn but in reasonable con-
dition, retain it with the snowmobile as a spare in case
of emergency.
5. Adjust the throttle cable. Inspect all fuel hoses and
oil hoses for deterioration or cracks; replace if necessary. Make sure all connections are tight.
6. Fill the oil-injection reservoir with the recommended
2-cycle oil; then inspect each spark plug. Replace,
gap, or clean as necessary.
NOTE: After prolonged storage on the 8000, Arctic
Cat recommends one tankful of 100:1 gas/oil mixture
be used in conjunction with the oil-injection system to
ensure proper lubrication.
7. Tighten all nuts, bolts, and cap screws making sure
all calibrated nuts, bolts, and cap screws are tightened to specifications.
8. If not done during preparation for storage, lubricate
the rear suspension with an all-temperature grease.
9. Check the coolant level and all coolant hoses and
connections for deterioration or cracks. Add properly
mixed coolant as necessary.
10. On electric start models, charge the battery; then
connect the battery cables making sure to connect the
positive cable first. Test the electric start system.
11. Inspect the entire brake system, all controls, headlight, taillight, brake light, ski wear bars, and headlight aim; adjust or replace as necessary.
12. Adjust the track to the proper tension and alignment.
After Break-In
Checkup/Checklist
Certain areas require adjustment after the break-in period
in order to obtain peak performance. These areas are the
following.
DRIVE BELT DEFLECTION — Drive belt deflection
is very important to the snowmobile. Even if it is checked
and is correct when the snowmobile is set up, it does
change (more so during the break-in period). This is
because the rubber engine mounts and the rubber snubber
on the torque link will all take a “set” during the first 100
miles allowing the distance between the drive clutch and
driven clutch to shorten. When this happens, the snowmobile will appear to have too long of a drive belt. To
add to this, the drive belt wears and stretches. This sometimes leads to a reduction in low-end performance, and if
not corrected, can cause premature drive belt wear.
After the break-in period, drive belt deflection should be
checked according to the instructions given in the Drive
Train/Track/Brake Systems section of this manual.
DRIVE CLUTCH/DRIVEN CLUTCH
ALIGNMENT (OFFSET) — The alignment between
the drive clutch and driven clutch are set at the factory.
Normally, no adjustment is necessary; however, if premature drive belt wear or poor performance is experienced,
the drive clutch/driven clutch alignment must be
checked. See “Checking Offset” in the driven train section in this manual.
TRACK TENSION AND ALIGNMENT — A certain
amount of stretch occurs on all tracks during the first 500
miles. The track must be inspected/adjusted after the first
50 to 100 miles to the specifications given in the Track
Specifications sub-section of this section and periodically
thereafter. If these adjustments aren’t performed, the
track may “derail” which leads to track and slide rail
damage.
Along with these major areas, other areas should be
checked and adjusted.
Below is a list of items to check after the break-in period.
The recommended mileage for this inspection is between
100 and 300 miles.
Check drive belt deflection - drive clutch/driven
Check steering hardware for tightness
Check skid frame and A-arm mounting hardware
for tightness
Check brake lever travel and adjustment
Grease all lubrication points
6
Engine Specifications
4000
ITEM
Engine Model NumberAX50L9
Displacement 499 cc
Bore x Stroke71 x 63
Compression Ratio6.38:1
Cooling SystemLiquid
Ignition Timing (Engine Warm)13° @ 2000 RPM
Spark Plug (NGK)BR9EYA
Spark Plug Gap0.028-0.031”
Piston Skirt/Cylinder Clearance0.0031-0.0041”
Piston Ring End Gap0.008-0.016”
Cylinder Trueness Limit0.004”
Piston Pin Diameter0.8659-0.8661”
Piston Pin Bore Diameter0.8661-0.8665”
Connecting Rod Small End Bore1.0631-1.0634”
Connecting Rod Radial Play0.0001-0.0008”
Crankshaft Runout (t.i.r.)0.002”
Crankshaft End Play 0.002-0.004”
Reed Stopper Height0.315”
6000
ITEM
Engine Number0962-011
Displacement 599 cc
Bore x Stroke73.8 x 70 mm
Compression Ratio6.62:1
Cooling SystemLiquid
Ignition Timing (Engine Warm)16.5° @ 2000
Spark Plug (NGK)BPR9ES
Spark Plug Gap0.028-0.031”
Piston Skirt/Cylinder Clearance0.0041-0.0053”
Piston Ring End Gap0.012-0.0196”
Cylinder Trueness Limit0.004”
Piston Pin Diameter0.8659-0.8661”
Piston Pin Bore Diameter0.8661-0.8665”
Connecting Rod Small End Bore1.0631-1.0634”
Connecting Rod Radial Play0.0001-0.0008”
Crankshaft Runout (t.i.r.)0.002”
Crankshaft End Play 0.002-0.004”
Reed Stopper Height0.512”
8000
ITEM
Engine Model NumberAB80L4
Displacement 794 cc
Bore x Stroke85 x 70
Compression Ratio6.62:1
Cooling SystemLiquid
Ignition Timing (Engine Warm)16.5° @ 2000
Spark Plug (NGK)BR9EYA
Spark Plug Gap0.028-0.031”
Piston Skirt/Cylinder Clearance0.0041-0.0053”
Piston Ring End Gap0.012-0.0196”
Cylinder Trueness Limit0.004”
Piston Pin Diameter0.8659-0.8661”
Piston Pin Bore Diameter0.8661-0.8665”
Connecting Rod Small End Bore1.0631-1.0634”
Connecting Rod Radial Play0.0001-0.0008”
Crankshaft Runout (t.i.r.)0.002”
Crankshaft End Play 0.002-0.004”
Reed Stopper Height0.512”
0.040”
RPM 0.072”
RPM 0.072”
Crankshaft Runout/Repair
Specifications
Refer to the drawing; then find the letter indicating the
specification and refer to the chart below the illustration.
NOTE: The proper location for checking crankshaft
runout is the very edge of the straight portion of the
shaft where the oil seal makes contact. From the illustration, note that three check points are called out: at
either end, out on the taper as shown, and also on the
center bearing race. The crankshaft is still supported
on the outer bearings using V blocks.
728-144A
Model
40004.515”2.618”4.465”1.062”D
80004.751”2.519”4.645”1.181”D
A
± 0.006B± 0.006C± 0.015
G
NOTE: Measure in from the shaft end the specified
amount when checking runout at points D and F. When
checking runout in the center, place indicator on center
of bearing as shown at point E. Maximum runout at
any of the three measuring points is ± 0.002”.
6000
NOTE: The crankshaft must be supported on the
inner bearings using V blocks.
Runout D
and F Point
± 0.002
0.196”F 0.196”
0.196”F 0.196”
0747-810
7
Arctic Power Valve (APV)
System Specifications
VALVE POSITIONCYCLE RPM
0735-516
Mid-Open
Full-Open
APV CABLE LENGTH
6000/800036.5 mm ± 1 mm
67-7500 (Low/High Alt)
77-8500 (Low/High Alt)
8
Electrical Specifications
ComponentTest Value + Test Connections -
Spark Plug Cap4000-6000 ohmscap endcap end
Oil Level SensorLess than 1 ohm (float end down)terminalterminal
Ignition SwitchLess than 1 ohm (key in OFF position) terminalterminal
Most voltages generated by the ignition system are sufficient to interrupt pacemakers! All technicians, especially
those using pacemakers, must avoid contact with all electrical connections when pulling the recoil starter rope or
after the engine has been started.
XF 6000 High Country 0-300085/255 lb66g140/200 lb48S ER30627-08342-460081-820019T50T90
XF 8000 High Country 0-300085/235 lb72g140/200 lb 66-48-.20 ER3 0627-08436-400081-8200 19T50T90
M 60006-800085/255 lb60g180/240 lb48S ER30627-08342-460081-8200 19T50T90
M 80006-800085/255 lb68g180/240 lb48S ER30627-08442-460081-8200 19T50T90
Drive Clutch
Spring
Cam
Arm
Drive Clutch/Driven
Driven
Clutch
Spring
Tor que
Bracket
Drive
Belt
Engagement
RPM
Peak
RPM
Top
Gear
Bottom
Gear
Drive System Components
Chain
Pitch
Clutch-Related
Specifications
ALIGNMENT BAR
MODEL OFFSET P/N
6000/80000744-09312.10”1.500”None
40000644-24612.10”1.485”None
CENTER-TO-
CENTER
OFFSET FLOAT
A list of Drive System components that are available
through the Arctic Cat Service Parts Department can be
found in the Quick Reference Guide. This information
will be useful when doing any fine-tuning on the drive
system.
ZR LXR129"1"
ZR Sno Pro/El Tigre129"1.25"
M SE141”/153"/162"2.25"
M Sno Pro/HCR153"/162"2.6"
M LTD153”/162”3.0”
XF Standard137"1.25"
XF CrossTrek137”1.6”
XF Cross Country137”1.75”
XF HC141"2.25"
XF Sno Pro 141"1.5"
NOTE: The track tension on all models should be 20
lb @ 2 inches.
Suspension Specifications
SPRINGS
SKI SHOCK
Model
ZR/XF0.312”13.00” 95 lb/in.10NO
Model
ZR/XF0.312”8.25”90/250
M SE0.295”7.75” 110 lb/in.7.0NO
Model
M SE/XF0.375”13.00” 175 lb/in. 10.5NO
REAR ARM (See Illustration Below)
Model
ZR/XF.405"90°3.65"6.7518.50”
0730-218
Wire
Diameter
Wire
Diameter
Wire
Diameter
Wire
Diameter
Free
Length
FRONT ARM
Free
Length
REAR ARM
Free
Length
Angle
(A)
(B)
Rate CoilsTab
RateCoilsTab
lb/in.
RateCoilsTab
Coil
Width (C)
9.8NO
Coils
Length
(D)
IFP SHOCK ABSORBERS
Below is a list of IFP shock absorbers used on the front
and rear suspensions of Arctic Cat snowmobiles. If
replacing a shock absorber, always select a shock
absorber with the same length, both collapsed and
extended.
SKI
Model
ZR/XF12.59”18.38”5.79” 7.00”
M SE11.49”16.33”4.84”6.90”
Wear StripRail50 in.-lb
End Cap/Rail Cap Wheel (M)Rail20
Mounting BlockRail12
Rear Wheel AxleRail34
Rear ArmRail20
Idler Arm Rear Arm20
Rear ShockFront Arm/Idler Arm24
Rail SupportRail20
Front ShockFront Arm24
Front ShockRail50
Limiter StrapFront Arm72 in.-lb
Limiter StrapRail Support72 in.-lb
Rear Tri Hub WheelRear Tri Hub Wheel 50 in.-lb
Rear Shock LinkFront Arm/Idler Arm24
Front Arm**Rail52
Skid Frame**Tunnel45
ZR/XF 137”
Wear StripRail50 in.-lb
End CapRail80 in.-lb
Mounting BlockRail12
Rear ArmRail45
Rear ArmIdler Arm55
Spring SlideRail20
Front Arm**Rail52
Coupler Block AxleRail40
Limiter StrapRail Support72 in.-lb
Rear Tri Hub WheelRear Tri Hub Wheel 50 in.-lb
Rear Wheel AxleRail34
Skid Frame**Tunnel55
Front ShockFront Arm40
Front ShockRail50
Rail SupportRail20
Limiter StrapFront Arm72 in.-lb
Limiter StrapRail Support72 in.-lb
14
Steering and Body
This section has been organized into sub-sections for servicing steering and body components; however, some
components may vary from model to model. The technician should use discretion and sound judgment when
removing and installing components.
NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,
cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is necessary.
SPECIAL TOOLS
A number of special tools must be available to the technician when servicing the steering and body systems.
Descriptionp/n
Handlebar Stand5639-152
Steering Post Stand5639-946
NOTE: Special tools are available from the Arctic
Cat Service Parts Department.
Steering Post (ZR/XF)
SNO-763
6. Remove the nut (A) securing the bottom of the existing steering post to the steering stop bracket; then
remove the nut (B) securing the steering tie rod
assembly to the steering post. Discard both nuts.
REMOVING
1. Remove the hairpin clip from the pin located at the
front of the access panel. Move the panel up and off
the pin; then swing the panel all the way out and
unhinge the panel from the lower console.
2. Remove all six torx-head screws securing the hood.
0746-793
3. Locate the hood harness connector (located under the
center vent and between the intake vents) and unplug
the connector; then move the hood slightly forward
and remove the hood.
4. Disconnect the exhaust temperature sensor from the
main harness; then remove all springs securing the
expansion chamber. Remove the expansion chamber.
5. Remove the push rivets securing the right-side steering boot to the chassis. This allows access to the two
nuts securing the bottom of the steering post.
SNO-2221A
7. Remove the cap screws and handlebar caps securing
the handlebar to the top of the handlebar riser; then
remove the two nuts securing the top of steering post
to the chassis. Account for both steering post blocks
and retaining plate.
SNO-357
8. Carefully remove the steering post from the snowmobile.
INSTALLING
1. Install steering post into position and secure to the
steering stop bracket with a new M10 nut. Be sure to
align the steering post ball joint alignment tab
with the steering stop bracket. Tighten to 43 ft-lb.
15
SNO-2218
2. Secure the tie rod assembly to the steering post using
a new M10 nut. Be sure to align the tie rod balljoint alignment tab with the steering post. Tighten
to 35 ft-lb.
SNO-2219
3. Secure the right-side steering boot to the chassis
using the existing push rivets.
SNO-357
6. Install the expansion chamber using the existing
springs; then connect the exhaust temperature sensor
to the main harness.
7. Position the hood onto the snowmobile and connect
the hood harness connector.
8. Secure the hood with the six torx-head screws and
tighten securely.
9. Install the access panels onto the lower console; then
close the access panels.
10. Install three cable ties to secure the handlebar harness to the riser block.
NOTE: Do not secure the brakeline hose with the
lower cable tie.
NOTE: Make sure when securing the harness or hoses
to the riser that all cable tie locks are directed inward.
SNO-763
4. Secure the top of the steering post to the steering
support using the existing retaining plate and nuts.
Tighten to 96 in.-lb.
5. Install the handlebar riser and handlebar to the top of
the steering post and secure using the existing caps
and screws. Tighten evenly to 15 ft-lb.
16
746-214A
CAUTION
With the handlebar secured and the cable installed, check
maximum right/left turning capabilities to assure that the
throttle cables, brakeline hose, and harness wires are routed
so they do not become pinched or stretched.
NOTE: After installing and adjusting the handlebar,
verify that the throttle lever free-play is within specification.
Steering Post (XF HC)
REMOVING
1. Remove the hairpin clip from the pin located at the
front of the access panel; then unscrew the thumb
screw. Move the panel up and off the pin; then swing
the panel all the way out and unhinge the panel from
the lower console.
0746-800
2. Remove all six torx-head screws securing the hood.
SNO-763
6. Remove the nut (A) securing the bottom of the existing steering post to the steering stop bracket; then
remove the nut (B) securing the steering tie rod
assembly to the steering post. Discard both nuts.
0746-793
3. Locate the hood harness connector (located under the
center vent between the intake vents) and unplug the
connector; then move the hood slightly forward and
remove the hood.
4. Disconnect the exhaust temperature sensor from the
main harness; then remove all springs securing the
expansion chamber. Remove the expansion chamber.
5. Remove the push rivets securing the right-side steering boot to the chassis. This allows access to the two
nuts securing the bottom of the steering post.
SNO-2221A
7. Remove the torx-head screw and nut securing the tie
rod link to the secondary steering post; then remove
the two machine screws and nuts securing the top of
the secondary steering post to the chassis. Account
for both steering post blocks and retaining plate.
SNO-2226B
8. Carefully remove the secondary steering post from
the snowmobile.
9. Remove and discard the cotter pin (C) and nyloc nut
(B) securing the steering post to the lower steering
support bracket. Account for a thrust washer (A).
17
SNO-2225A
10. Remove the two cap screws securing the existing
steering support (C) to the front spar tubes (B); then
remove the two cap screws securing the steering support to the side support tubes (A). Retain all cap
screws and nuts.
SNO-2227A
11. Remove the two cap screws securing the rear portion
of the steering support to the rear spar tubes.
SNO-739A
13. Remove the retaining ring securing the bottom side
of the steering post; then remove the post from the
steering support. Account for two bearings.
SNO-740A
INSPECTING
1. Inspect all welded areas for cracks or deterioration.
2. Inspect the steering post and steering-post retaining
plate for cracks, bends, or wear.
3. Inspect the adjuster caps and mounting block for
cracks or wear.
XM212A
12. With the telescoping steering assembly removed
from the snowmobile; press down on the adjusting
block until the inner snap ring is exposed. Remove
the snap ring.
18
INSTALLING
1. Insert the telescoping steering post into the steering
support along with two bushings; then secure the
steering post using the existing retaining ring.
SNO-740A
NOTE: Verify the bushings are properly oriented
(the seam should be centered front to back).
2. Install the adjusting block onto the steering post and
secure using the existing snap ring.
SNO-739A
3. Install the steering post assembly onto the front and
rear spar tubes and into the thrust washer (A) and the
lower steering post support. Secure with a new nyloc
nut (B) and a new cotter pin (C). Tighten to 20 ft-lb
and spread the cotter pin to secure.
SNO-2225A
4. Secure the steering support to the front and rear spar
tubes using the existing cap screws. Tighten to 25
ft-lb.
5. Install the secondary steering post into position and
secure to the steering stop bracket with a new M10
nut. Be sure to align the steering post ball joint
alignment tab with the steering stop bracket.
Tighten to 43 ft-lb.
SNO-2219
7. Secure the right-side steering boot to the chassis
using the existing push rivets.
SNO-763
8. Secure the top of the steering post to the steering
support using the existing retaining plate and new
nuts (A). Tighten to 96 in.-lb.
SNO-2218
6. Secure the tie rod assembly to the steering post using
a new M10 nut. Be sure to align the tie rod balljoint alignment tab with the steering post. Tighten
to 35 ft-lb.
SNO-2226A
9. Connect the tie rod (B) from the adjustable steering
post to the secondary steering post using the machine
screw and nut. Tighten to 20 ft-lb.
10. Install the expansion chamber using the existing
springs; then connect the exhaust temperature sensor
to the main harness.
11. Position the handlebar to the desired position; then
secure using the existing cap and all eight screws.
Tighten evenly to 15 ft-lb.
19
0747-617
12. Install the upper and lower console; then install the
gas tank and seat using the existing hardware.
13. Install the hood and both access panels.
14. Install the push-mount cable ties on the handlebar
harness into the handlebar riser.
0749-029
CAUTION
With the handlebar secured and the cable installed, check
maximum right/left turning capabilities to assure that the
throttle cables, brakeline hose, and harness wires are routed
so they do not become pinched or stretched.
NOTE: After installing and adjusting the handle-
bar, verify that the throttle lever free-play is within
specification.
0746-800
2. Remove all six torx-head screws securing the hood.
0746-793
3. Locate the hood harness connector (located under the
center vent between the intake vents) and unplug the
connector; then move the hood slightly forward and
remove the hood.
4. Disconnect the exhaust temperature sensor from the
main harness; then remove all springs securing the
expansion chamber. Remove the expansion chamber.
5. Remove the push rivets securing the right-side steering boot to the chassis. This allows access to the two
nuts securing the bottom of the steering post.
Steering Post (M)
REMOVING
1. Remove the hairpin clip from the pin located at the
front of the access panel; then unscrew the thumb
screw. Move the panel up and off the pin; then swing
the panel all the way out and unhinge the panel from
the lower console.
20
SNO-763
6. Remove the nut (A) securing the bottom of the existing steering post to the steering stop bracket; then
remove the nut (B) securing the steering tie rod
assembly to the steering post. Discard both nuts.
SNO-2221A
7. Remove the torx-head screw and nut (B) securing the
tie rod link to the secondary steering post; then
remove the two machine screws (A) and nuts securing the top of the secondary steering post to the chassis. Account for both steering post blocks and
retaining plate.
SNO-333
12. Remove the cap screws securing the existing steering
support (C) to the spar tubes (B); then remove the
two cap screws securing the steering support to the
side support tubes (A). Retain all cap screws but discard all nuts.
SNO-346A
8. Carefully remove the secondary steering post from
the snowmobile.
9. Tie the recoil rope in a loose knot to prevent the rope
from going into the recoil; then remove the recoil
handle from the recoil rope.
10. Remove the eight machine screws and caps securing
the handlebar and riser to the fixed steering post
assembly.
0747-883
11. Remove and discard the cotter pin securing the fixed
steering post; then remove and discard the lock nut
but retain the thrust washer.
SNO-2218
INSPECTING
1. Inspect all welded areas for cracks or deterioration.
2. Inspect the steering post and steering-post retaining
plate for cracks, bends, or wear.
3. Inspect the adjuster caps and mounting block for
cracks or wear.
INSTALLING
1. Position steering post assembly over the spar tubes,
both side supports and into the lower steering support; then secure the assembly using existing cap
screws and nuts. Tighten cap screws to 23 ft-lb.
SNO-334
21
2. Secure the bottom of the steering post to the lower
steering support using existing thrust washer and
new Nyloc Nut. Tighten to 20 ft-lb. Install Cotter Pin
into steering post and spread to secure.
SNO-333
3. Install the secondary steering post into position and
secure to the steering stop bracket with a new M10
nut. Be sure to align the steering post ball joint
alignment tab with the steering stop bracket.
Tighten to 43 ft-lb.
SNO-763
6. Route the recoil rope behind the lower steering support and up through the new steering support and
through the existing recoil handle. Tighten rope in a
knot.
7. Secure the top of the secondary steering post to the
steering support using the existing steering post
blocks, machine screws and nuts. Tighten to 8 ft-lb.
8. Connect the tie rod from the secondary steering post
to the fixed steering post using existing machine
screw and new Nyloc Nut. Tighten to 20 ft-lb.
SNO-2218
4. Secure the tie rod assembly to the steering post using
a new M10 nut. Be sure to align the tie rod balljoint alignment tab with the steering post. Tighten
to 35 ft-lb.
SNO-2219
5. Secure the right-side steering boot to the chassis
using the existing push rivets.
SNO-346
9. Connect the tie rod (B) from the adjustable steering
post to the secondary steering post using the machine
screw and nut. Tighten to 20 ft-lb.
10. Install the expansion chamber using the existing
springs; then connect the exhaust temperature sensor
to the main harness.
11. Position the handlebar to the desired position; then
secure using the existing cap and all eight screws.
Tighten evenly to 15 ft-lb.
0747-883
12. Install the hood and both access panels.
22
13. Install three cable ties to secure the handlebar harness to the riser block.
NOTE: Also secure the brakeline hose with the
lower cable tie.
NOTE: Make sure when securing the harness or hoses
to the riser that all cable tie locks are directed inward.
0746-219
CAUTION
With the handlebar secured and the cable installed, check
maximum right/left turning capabilities to assure that the
throttle cables, brakeline hose, and harness wires are routed
so they do not become pinched or stretched.
2. Install the spindle axle into the spindle; then position the
ski damper into the bottom of the ski making sure the
damper is properly positioned for the desired ski stance.
0746-796
NOTE: After installing and adjusting the handlebar,
verify that the throttle lever free-play is within specification.
Ski (ZR/XF)
REMOVING
1. Elevate the front of the snowmobile and secure on a
support stand.
2. Remove and discard the cotter pin; then remove the
nut and cap screw securing the ski to the spindle.
NOTE: Note the orientation of the damper for
installation purposes.
3. Remove the ski. Account for the rubber damper and
washers.
INSPECTING
1. Inspect the ski for cracks or deterioration.
2. Inspect the ski for abnormal bends or cracks.
3. Inspect the wear bar for wear.
4. Inspect all hardware and the spindle bushings for
wear and damage.
5. Inspect the rubber damper for damage or wear.
0746-797
NOTE: The ski damper must be positioned in the
ski so it is directly under the spindle.
3. With the cap screw hole of the ski centered with the
spindle axle, slide the cap screw with washer through
the outside of the ski and spindle assemblies.
NOTE: Local laws and/or regulations as to maxi-
mum width of the ski stance may be applicable.
Always comply with the maximum width laws and/or
regulations when adjusting ski stance.
NOTE: Install the cap screw so the lock nut will be
located to the inside of the ski and the cotter pin slot
in the cap screw will be horizontal with the ski.
4. Install the remaining washer and lock nut; then
tighten the lock nut to 35 ft-lb.
NOTE: Assure that the cotter pin slot in the cap
screw is still horizontal with the ski.
5. Install a new cotter pin from the back side of the ski
cap screw and spread the pin.
Ski (XF HC/M)
INSTALLING
1. Slide a washer onto the cap screw used to secure the
ski; then apply all-temperature grease to the shaft
portion of the cap screw and spindle axle.
REMOVING
1. Elevate the front of the snowmobile and secure on a
support stand.
2. Remove and discard the cotter pin; then remove the
nut and cap screw securing the ski to the spindle.
23
NOTE: Note the orientation of the damper for
installation purposes.
3. Remove the ski. Account for the rubber damper,
axle, spacers and washers.
INSPECTING
1. Inspect the ski for cracks or deterioration.
2. Inspect the ski for abnormal bends or cracks.
3. Inspect the wear bar for wear.
4. Inspect all hardware and the spindle bushings for
wear and damage.
REMOVING
1. Raise the front of the snowmobile and secure with a
suitable stand.
2. Remove the lock nuts securing the wear bar to the
ski; then remove the wear bar.
INSTALLING
1. Install the wear bar into the ski making sure it is fully
seated using a rubber mallet.
2. Secure the wear bar with lock nuts. Tighten to 96
in.-lb.
5. Inspect the rubber damper for damage or wear.
INSTALLING
1. Slide a washer onto the cap screw used to secure the
ski; then apply all-temperature grease to the shaft
portion of the cap screw and spindle axle.
2. Install the spindle axle and spacers into the spindle;
then position the ski damper into the bottom of the
ski making sure the damper is properly positioned
for the desired ski stance.
0748-903
NOTE: The ski damper must be positioned in the
ski so it is directly under the spindle.
3. With the cap screw hole of the ski centered with the
spindle axle, slide the cap screw with washer through
the outside of the ski and spindle assemblies.
NOTE: Install the cap screw so the lock nut will be
located to the inside of the ski and the cotter pin slot
in the cap screw will be horizontal with the ski.
4. Install the remaining washer and lock nut; then
tighten the lock nut to 35 ft-lb.
Spindle (ZR/XF)
0747-904
REMOVING
1. Position the front of the snowmobile on a safety
stand; then remove the ski.
2. Remove the cap screws and lock nuts securing the
shock absorber. Account for two axles.
3. Remove the lock nut securing the tie rod to the spindle arm. Account for the washer on the top side.
4. Remove the two lock nuts securing the spindle to the
upper and lower A-arms; then using a rubber mallet,
remove the arms from the spindle.
5. Remove the spindle.
INSPECTING
1. Inspect the spindle for excessive wear, cracks, bends,
or imperfections.
2. Inspect the A-arm bushings and axle area for wear.
5. Install a new cotter pin from the back side of the ski
cap screw and spread the pin.
Ski Wear Bar
The ski wear bar is a replaceable bar attached to the
underside of the ski. If the snowmobile is operated primarily in deep snow, ski wear bar wear will be minimal;
however, if the snowmobile is operated on terrain where
the snow cover is minimal, the ski wear bar will wear
faster. Arctic Cat recommends that the ski wear bars be
replaced if worn to 1/2 of original diameter.
24
3. Inspect the ski spindle axle and bearings for wear,
damage, or loose fit. Replace the bearings as a set.
NOTE: Replacing the ski bolt bushings is difficult. The
existing bushings will be damaged during removal. Be
careful, however, not to damage the spindle when removing the bushings. Press the new bushings into the spindle.
INSTALLING
1. Place the shock absorber into position. Secure with
the cap screws and new lock nuts. Tighten to 32 ft-lb.
2. Install the upper and lower A-arms into the spindle
and loosely secure with new lock nuts; then remove
the snowmobile from the support stand. Tighten both
lock nuts to 45 ft-lb.
NOTE: The weight of the snowmobile will allow the
ball joints to seat into the spindle before tightening
the nuts.
3. Place the tie rod with washer into position on the
spindle arm. Secure with a new lock nut. Tighten to
32 ft-lb.
4. Install the ski.
5. Turn the handlebar fully to the right and then to the
left to verify the steering moves freely.
Spindle (XF HC/M)
2. Secure the upper A-arm ball joint to the spindle
using the existing machine screw and tri-nut. Tighten
the machine screw to 23 ft-lb.
3. Loosely install a new lock nut to secure the lower
A-arm to the spindle; then remove the snowmobile
from the support stand. Tighten to 45 ft-lb.
NOTE: The weight of the snowmobile will allow the
ball joint to seat into the spindle before tightening the
nut.
4. Place the tie rod with washer into position on the
spindle arm. Secure with a new lock nut. Tighten to
32 ft-lb.
5. Install the ski.
6. Turn the handlebar fully to the right and then to the
left to verify the steering moves freely.
Steering Tie Rod
NOTE: To access the steering arm, the steering tie
rods must be removed.
REMOVING
1. Remove both machine screws and nyloc nuts securing the steering tie rod ends to the steering arm. Discard both nuts.
0749-480
REMOVING
1. Position the front of the snowmobile on a safety
stand; then remove the ski.
2. Remove the lock nut securing the tie rod to the spindle arm. Account for the washer on the top side.
3. Remove the machine screw and tri-nut securing the
upper A-arm ball joint to the spindle.
4. Remove two lock nut securing the spindle to the
lower A-arm; then using a rubber mallet, remove the
lower arm from the spindle.
INSPECTING
1. Inspect the spindle for excessive wear, cracks, bends,
or imperfections.
2. Inspect the A-arm bushings and axle area for wear.
3. Inspect the ski spindle axle and bearings for wear,
damage, or loose fit. Replace the bearings as a set.
NOTE: Replacing the ski bolt bushings is difficult. The
existing bushings will be damaged during removal. Be
careful, however, not to damage the spindle when removing the bushings. Press the new bushings into the spindle.
SNO-349
2. Remove the nyloc nuts securing the steering tie rod
ends to the spindle arms. Account for the washers
and discard both nuts.
INSTALLING
1. Install the lower A-arm into the spindle and loosely
secure using a new lock nut.
SNO-353
3. Slide the steering tie rod out of the steering boot and
out of the snowmobile.
25
4. Remove the screw and lock nut securing the steering
tie rod end to the steering arm. Discard the nut.
SNO-350
5. Remove the lock nut securing the steering tie rod to
the steering post. Discard the nut.
INSTALLING
1. Secure steering arm into position and secure using
the existing cap screw, flat washers, and nut. Tighten
to 96 in.-lb.
SNO-829A
2. Place the steering tie rod into position on the steering
post. Secure with a new nyloc nut. Tighten to 35
ft-lb.
SNO-351
NOTE: At this point if the technician’s objective is
to remove the steering arm, the reinforcement
bracket will need to be removed by drilling out the
appropriate rivets.
6. Remove all torx-head screws securing the front skid
plate to the chassis; then remove the cap screw and
nut securing the steering arm to the chassis. Account
for two washers and two bushings.
SNO-829A
INSPECTING
1. Inspect the ball joints for damaged threads or wear.
2. Inspect the tie rod for damage, unusual bends, or
wear.
SNO-351
NOTE: Make sure the tie rod tab is fully seated into
the steering post and threads of the ball joint are
above the nut when tightened correctly.
3. Place the tie rod end into position on the steering tie
rod bracket. Secure with a new nyloc nut. Tighten to
20 ft-lb.
SNO-350
4. Slide the steering tie rod through the steering boot
and into the snowmobile; then place the steering tie
rod into the spindle arm with the washer. Secure
with a new nyloc nut. Tighten to 32 ft-lb.
26
SNO-353
5. Secure the steering tie rod to the steering tie rod
bracket with the screw and new nyloc nut. Tighten to
20 ft-lb.
SNO-349
Ski Alignment
729-887B
NOTE: The straightedge should be long enough to
extend from the back of the track to the front of the
ski.
5. Measure the distance from the straightedge to the
left-side ski wear bar bolts in two places: approximately 7-8 in. in front of the spindle and 7-8 in.
behind the spindle. Record the measurements taken
for the left side.
CHECKING
NOTE: Track tension and alignment must be prop-
erly adjusted prior to checking or adjusting ski alignment. Ski alignment must be performed on a flat,
level surface. Ski toe-out must fall within the range of
1/16-1/4 in.
1. Raise the front end of snowmobile just high enough
to keep the skis from contacting the floor.
2. Turn the handlebar to the straight-ahead position.
Visually inspect the handlebar for being centered and
in the straight-ahead position.
3. With the handlebar in the straight-ahead position,
secure the handlebar to prevent the alignment from
becoming disturbed during the remainder of the
alignment procedure.
NOTE: Track tension and alignment must be prop-
erly adjusted prior to placing the straightedge against
the outside edge of the track.
4. Place a long straightedge against the outside edge of
the track so it lies near the inside edge of the left-side
ski.
729-887A
0734-408
6. Place the straightedge against the outside edge of the
track so it lies near the inside edge of the right-side
ski.
27
7. Measure the distance from the straightedge to the
right-side ski wear bar bolts in two places: 7-8 in. in
front of the spindle and 7-8 in. behind the spindle.
Record the measurements taken for the right side.
! WARNING
The measurement from the front and rear wear bar bolts
to the straightedge can be equal (ski parallel to the
track), but the front measurement must never be less
(ski toed-in) or poor handling will be experienced. The
front wear bar bolt measurement to the straightedge
must not exceed the measurement from the rear wear
bar bolt to the straightedge (ski toed-out) by more than
5/32 in.
8. If ski alignment is not as specified, adjust the alignment of the ski(s) not parallel to the straightedge.
ADJUSTING
NOTE: The following procedure can be used to
adjust the alignment of either ski.
NOTE: The rivets securing the steering boots will
have to be removed in order to adjust the inner tie rod
ends.
1. Secure the steering tie rod in the centered position.
2. Loosen both spindle tie rod jam nuts on the same
side as the ski to be aligned.
3. Using a wrench on the spindle tie rod “flats,” rotate
the spindle tie rod until recommended specification
is attained.
4. Apply blue Loctite #243 to each jam nut thread area;
then tighten the jam nuts against the spindle tie rod.
0734-408
! WARNING
The measurement taken in front of the spindle must
never be less than the measurement taken behind the
spindle or poor handling will be experienced. Neglecting to lock the tie rod by tightening the jam nuts may
cause loss of snowmobile control and possible personal injury.
A-Arms (ZR/XF)
REMOVING
1. Elevate the front of the snowmobile and secure using
a suitable support stand.
2. Remove the push rivets securing the steering boot to
the chassis; then slide the boot away from the snowmobile.
NOTE: Repeat this procedure on each side (if neces-
sary) until ski toe-out is within specification.
! WARNING
Neglecting to lock the tie rod by tightening the jam nuts
may cause loss of snowmobile control and possible
personal injury.
VERIFYING
1. With the handlebar in the straight-ahead position,
verify ski alignment by measuring across from the
outside edge of the left-side wear bar bolts to the outside edge of the right-side wear bar bolts (without
using the straightedge) in two places: approximately
7-8 in. in front of the spindle and 7-8 in. behind the
spindle.
2. The measurement from in front of the spindle to the
outer edge of the wear bar bolts (without using the
straightedge) must not exceed the rear measurement
by more than 1/16-1/4 in. toe-out.
SNO-763
3. Remove the torx-head screws securing the front skid
plate to the chassis; then remove the front skid plate.
4. Remove the ski shock absorber.
5. Remove the two lock nuts securing the spindle to the
A-arms; then using a rubber mallet, remove the arms
from the spindle. Discard the nuts.
28
SNO-354
6. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the
sway bar link to the lower arm. Discard the nut.
INSPECTING
1. Inspect the arm welded areas for cracks or any signs
of deterioration.
2. Inspect the bearings and axles for wear or damage.
3. Inspect the arm tubing for signs of twisting or bending.
4. Inspect mounting location of the chassis for cracks or
wear.
INSTALLING
1. Place the upper arm into position on the chassis and
secure with the cap screws, axles, and new nyloc
nuts. Tighten to 23 ft-lb.
SNO-764
7. Remove the two cap screws and nyloc nuts securing
the lower arm to the chassis; then slide the boot from
the arm and remove the arm.
SNO-226A
8. Remove the two cap screws and lock nuts securing
the upper arm to the chassis. Discard the nuts.
SNO-571
2. Slide the lower arm into the boot; then place the arm
into position on the chassis. Secure with the cap
screws and new nyloc nuts and tighten to 65 ft-lb
(front) and 45 ft-lb (rear).
PC095A
3. On the ZR/XF, secure the sway bar link to the lower
arm with the cap screw and new nyloc nut. Tighten
to 23 ft-lb.
SNO-571
29
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