Arctic Cat SD-ROM 2002 Service Manual

TABLE OF
CONTENTS
Section
1. General Information (Vol. I)
2. Engine (Vol. I)
3. Engine-Related Items (Vol. I)
4. Fuel Systems (Vol. I)
Click on the red text to go.
6. Chassis Electrical Systems (Vol. II)
7. Steering and Body (Vol. II)
8. Drive Train and Brake Systems (Vol. II)
9. Track/Rear Suspension (Vol. II)
SECTION 1 — GENERAL INFORMATION
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Snowmobile Identification ....................................... 1-2
Recommended Gasoline and Oil ........................... 1-2
Break-In Procedure ................................................ 1-3
Genuine Parts ........................................................ 1-3
High Altitude Operation .......................................... 1-4
Drive Chain Lubrication (120 cc) ............................ 1-4
Preparation For Storage ......................................... 1-4
Preparation After Storage ....................................... 1-6
After Break-In Checkup (100 Miles) ....................... 1-6
After Break-In Checkup Checklist .......................... 1-7
Torque Conversions ............................................... 1-8
Tightening Torque (General Bolts) ........................ 1-8
Fraction/Decimal Conversion Chart ....................... 1-9
Drill Bit Sizes (Number) Chart ................................ 1-9
MM/In. Conversion Chart ..................................... 1-10
Servicing Symbols ................................................ 1-11
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TABLE OF
CONTENTS
1-1
Snowmobile
Identification
The Arctic Cat Snowmobile has two important identifica­tion numbers. The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) is stamped into the tunnel near the right-side footrest. The Engine Serial Number (ESN) is stamped into the crank­case of the engine.
RECOMMENDED GASOLINE (EFI Models)
The recommended gasoline to use in these snowmobiles is 87 minimum octane regular unleaded, and the Fuel Designation Connector at the ECU must be connected. In many areas, oxygenates (either ethanol or MTBE) are added to the gasoline. Oxygenated gasolines containing up to 10% ethanol or up to 15% MTBE are acceptable gasolines; however, if oxygenated gasoline is used, the Fuel Designation Connector at the ECU must be discon­nected. Do not use gasolines containing methanol.
0726-383
These numbers are required to complete warranty claims properly. No warranty will be allowed by Arctic Cat Inc. if the engine serial number or VIN is removed or muti­lated in any way.
Recommended
Gasoline and Oil
RECOMMENDED GASOLINE (Carbureted Models)
The recommended gasoline to use in these snowmo­biles is 87 minimum octane regular unleaded. In many areas, oxygenates (either ethanol or MTBE) are added to the gasoline. Oxygenated gasolines containing up to 10% ethanol or up to 15% MTBE are acceptable gaso­lines; however, whenever using oxygenated gasolines, the carburetor main jet must be one size larger than the main jet required for regular unleaded gasoline. For example, if a 400 main jet is recommended for regular unleaded gasoline, a 410 main jet must be installed if using an oxygenated gasoline.
When using ethanol blended gasoline, it is not necessary to add a gasoline antifreeze since ethanol will prevent the accumulation of moisture in the fuel system.
734-482A
! CAUTION
Do not use white gas or gasoline containing methanol. Only Arctic Cat approved gasoline additives should be used.
! CAUTION
If oxygenated gasoline is to be used, it is extremely important that the Fuel Designation Connector at the ECU is disconnected. If the connector is not disconnected when using oxygenated gasoline, severe engine damage may occur.
NOTE: In order for the ECU to change modes, the engine must be OFF when connecting or discon­necting the Fuel Designation Connector.
RECOMMENDED OIL (Oil-Injection System)
The recommended oil to use in the oil-injection system is Arctic Cat 50:1 Injection Oil (for standard models) or Arctic Cat Synthetic APV 2-Cycle Oil (for APV models). The oil is specially formulated to be used either as an injection oil or as a pre-mix oil (for carbureted model break-in) and meets all of the lubrication requirements of the Arctic Cat snowmobile engine.
! CAUTION
Do not use white gas or gasolines containing methanol. Only Arctic Cat approved gasoline additives should be used.
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RECOMMENDED OIL (4-Stroke Model)
The recommended oil to use is a multi-grade oil cali­brated to the ambient temperature at which the engine is run. See the viscosity chart for details.
! CAUTION
Any oil used in place of the recommended oil may cause serious damage.
Multi-Grade
! CAUTION
DO NOT exceed the one (1) tankful limitation of a 100:1 gas/oil break-in mixture. Continuous use of a gas/oil mixture, unless consistently operating in extremely cold conditions (-26°C/-15°F or colder), could cause spark plug fouling and excessive carbon buildup. A 100:1 gas/oil mixture must be used in conjunction with the oil­injection system to ensure adequate engine lubrication in extremely cold conditions.
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Break-In Procedure
(4-Stroke Model)
The Arctic Cat 4-stroke engine (when new or rebuilt) requires a short break-in period before the engine is sub­jected to heavy load conditions.
GEN-0048
After the engine break-in period, the engine oil should be changed every 3500 miles (on the 4-Stroke Touring and Trail) and before prolonged storage.
Break-In Procedure
(2-Stroke Models)
The Arctic Cat 2-stroke engine (when new or rebuilt) requires a short break-in period before the engine is sub­jected to heavy load conditions. Arctic Cat requires that the first tankful of fuel be premixed at a 100:1 ratio in all oil-injection models.
During the break-in period, a maximum of 1/2 throttle is recommended; however, brief full-throttle accelerations and variations in driving speeds contribute to good engine break-in.
This engine does not require any pre-mixed fuel during the break-in period.
! CAUTION
DO NOT use premixed fuel in the snowmobile gas tank. Engine damage will occur.
To ensure trouble-free operation, careful adherence to the following break-in guidelines will be beneficial.
0-200 miles
200-400 miles 1/2-3/4 Throttle
400-600 miles 1/2-3/4 Throttle *
* With occasional full-throttle operation.
To ensure proper engine break-in, Arctic Cat recommends that the engine oil and filter be changed after 600 miles or after one month, whichever comes first. This service is at the discretion and expense of the snowmobile owner.
1/2 Throttle
(45 MPH-max)
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Genuine Parts
When replacement of parts is necessary, use only genuine Arctic Cat parts. They are precision-made to ensure high quality and correct fit.
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High Altitude Operation
Operating a snowmobile at varying altitudes requires changes in performance components. These changes affect drive train components (on all models) and carbure­tion components (on carbureted models).
A high altitude information decal is located beneath the hood of the snowmobile. On carbureted models, the infor­mation is incorporated into the Main Jet Chart decal.
Preparation For Storage
Prior to storing the snowmobile, it must be properly ser­viced to prevent corrosion and component deterioration. An authorized Arctic Cat Snowmobile dealer should per­form this service; however, the owner/operator can per­form this service if desired. To prepare the snowmobile for storage, Arctic Cat recommends the following proce­dure:
! CAUTION
On carbureted models, carefully follow the Main Jet Chart recommendations for proper main jet selection for altitude, temperature, and gasoline being used.
A number of Arctic Cat snowmobiles are initially set up at the factory for operation between 5000-9000 feet. Con­sult the appropriate specifications for this information.
Drive Chain
Lubrication
(120 cc)
The drive chain should be lubricated every 20 operating hours with a dry, graphite-based chain lubricant. By using a dry, graphite-based chain lubricant, dirt buildup on the drive chain will be minimized. Before each lubrication, inspect the drive chain for dirt accumulation.
To lubricate the drive chain, shut the engine off and wait for all moving parts to stop, remove the drive chain guard and lubricate the drive chain. After lubricating the drive chain, install the drive chain guard.
1. Clean the seat cushion with a damp cloth and Arctic Cat Vinyl Protectant (p/n 0638-313).
2. Clean the snowmobile thoroughly by hosing dirt, oil, grass, and other foreign matter from the skid frame, tunnel, hood, and belly pan. Allow the snowmobile to dry thoroughly. DO NOT get water into any part of the engine.
NOTE: Steps 3-7 are only for models with an oil-
injection system.
3. Place the rear of the snowmobile up on a shielded safety stand.
NOTE: On some models, the air-intake silencer is a one-piece unit, and the silencer boot(s) can be removed to access the intake bore(s). Remove the boots; then proceed to step 7.
NOTE: On some models, the air-intake silencer includes a cover/tool tray assembly and a baffle/ resonator, and the silencer boot cannot be removed to access the intake bores. Proceed to step 4.
4. Open the air-intake silencer cover; then remove the three screws securing the cover/tool tray assembly to the silencer.
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If the drive chain is excessively dirty, it should be removed and cleaned prior to being lubricated (see Drive Chain and Sprockets in Section 8).
NOTE: If a dry, graphite-based chain lubricant is not available, lubricate the drive chain with several drops of petroleum-based oil. If the snowmobile is operated in the summer with the optional wheel kit, the drive chain should be lubricated more fre­quently.
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5. Close the cover; then tip the cover/tool tray assembly forward and out of its slots and remove the assembly.
6. Using a large flat-blade screwdriver, remove the baffle/resonator tabs from the air-intake silencer slots and remove the baffle/resonator to access the intake bores.
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NOTE: The baffle/resonator can be removed
more easily by removing the back tabs first.
14. Clean and inspect the drive clutch and driven pulley.
7. Start the engine and allow to idle. With the engine idling, spray Arctic Cat Engine Storage Preserver (p/n 0636-177) into the intake(s) until the engine exhaust starts to smoke heavily or until the engine starts to drop in RPM. Turn engine off.
NOTE: On some models, install the air-intake silencer boot(s); on some models, install the baf­fle/resonator and the cover/tool tray assembly.
8. Plug the exhaust system outlet with a clean cloth.
! CAUTION
Do not do step 9 on the 4-stroke model; severe engine damage could result.
9. With the ignition switch in the OFF position:
A. Disconnect the high tension lead(s) from the
spark plug(s); then remove the plug(s), connect it/them to the lead(s), and ground it/them on the cylinder head(s).
! CAUTION
Never crank the engine over without grounding the spark plug(s). Damage to coils and/or CDI unit may result.
B. Pour 29.5 ml (1 fl oz) of SAE #30 petroleum-
based oil into each spark plug hole and pull the recoil starter handle slowly about 10 times.
C. Install the spark plug(s) and connect the high
tension lead(s).
10. On the 4-stroke model, change the engine oil; then
clean the air filter.
11. On carbureted models, drain the gas from each
carburetor float chamber.
12. Fill the gas tank to its rated capacity; then add
Arctic Cat Fuel Stabilizer (p/n 0638-165) to the gas tank following directions on the container for the stabilizer/gasoline ratio. Tighten the gas tank cap securely.
13. If applicable, drain the chain-case lubricant by
removing the chain-case drain plug located on the backside of the chain-case assembly. Remove the chain-case cover and inspect chain, sprockets, chain tensioner, and rollers for wear and the chain for proper tension. Install the drain plug, chain­case cover, and seal; then pour Arctic Cat Transmission Lube (p/n 0636-817) into the filler hole according to appropriate specifications.
15. If applicable, remove the drive belt from the drive clutch/driven pulley. Lay the belt on a flat surface or slide it into a cardboard sleeve to prevent warping or distortion during storage; then clean and inspect the drive clutch and driven pulley.
16. Apply light oil to the upper steering post bushing, ski spindles and bolts, front and rear pivot bushings of the skid frame, and plungers of the shock absorbers.
17. Lubricate all grease fittings (front and rear suspension, spindles, speedometer drive adapter, and the driven shaft support bearing) with a low­temperature grease.
18. Tighten all nuts, bolts, and cap screws making sure all calibrated nuts, bolts, and cap screws are tightened to specifications. Make sure all rivets holding the components together are tight. Replace all loose rivets.
19. Clean and polish the hood, console, and chassis with Arctic Cat Hood and Windshield Cleaner/ Polish (p/n 0636-174). DO NOT USE SOL­VENTS OR SPRAY CLEANERS. THE PRO­PELLENT WILL DAMAGE THE FINISH.
20. On electric start models, disconnect the battery cables making sure to disconnect the negative cable first; then clean the battery posts and cables.
21. If possible, store the snowmobile indoors. Raise the track off the floor by blocking up the back end making sure the snowmobile is secure. Loosen the track adjusting bolts to reduce track tension. Cover the snowmobile with a machine cover or a heavy tarpaulin to protect it from dirt and dust.
22. If the snowmobile must be stored outdoors, position the snowmobile out of direct sunlight; then block the entire snowmobile off the ground making sure the snowmobile is secure. Loosen the track adjusting bolts to reduce track tension. Cover with a machine cover or a heavy tarpaulin to protect it from dirt, dust, and rain.
! CAUTION
Avoid storing in direct sunlight and using a plastic cover as moisture may collect on the snowmobile causing corrosion.
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Preparation After
Storage
Taking the snowmobile out of storage and correctly pre­paring it for another season will assure many miles and hours of trouble-free snowmobiling. Arctic Cat recom­mends the following procedure:
! CAUTION
On carbureted models if the gas in each carburetor float chamber was not drained prior to storage, the carburetor(s) must be cleaned before starting the engine.
1. Clean the snowmobile thoroughly. Polish the exterior of the snowmobile.
2. Clean the engine. Remove the cloth from the exhaust system. Check exhaust system and air­intake silencer/air filter for obstructions.
3. Inspect all control wires and cables for signs of wear or fraying. Replace if necessary. Use cable ties or tape to route wires and cables away from hot or rotating parts.
4. If applicable, inspect the drive belt for cracks and tears. Check belt specifications. Replace if damaged or worn. Install the drive belt.
NOTE: If the old belt is worn but in reasonable condition, retain it with the snowmobile as a spare in case of emergency.
5. On carbureted models, inspect the in-line fuel filter and replace if necessary.
6. Inspect all fuel hoses and oil hoses for deterioration or cracks; replace if necessary. Make sure all connections are tight; then on 2-stroke models, fill the oil-injection reservoir with the recommended 50:1 injection oil.
NOTE: On 2-stroke models after prolonged stor­age, Arctic Cat recommends one tankful of 100:1 gas/oil mixture be used in conjunction with the oil­injection system to ensure proper lubrication.
10. Adjust the carburetor(s) and choke cable on carbureted models and throttle cable on all models.
! WARNING
On VM-style carburetors, be sure to tighten the swivel adapter jam nuts securely. If a jam nut isn’t tightened, the adjuster can rotate out of the carburetor cap causing the piston valve not to return to the full-closed position.
11. Tighten all nuts, bolts, and cap screws making sure all calibrated nuts, bolts, and cap screws are tightened to specifications.
12. Lubricate all grease fittings (rear suspension, spindles, speedometer drive adapter, and the driven shaft support bearing) with a low­temperature grease.
13. On the 120 cc model, inspect the drive chain and drive chain tightener. Replace if necessary; then lubricate the binding screw drum with WD-40 and the drive chain with a dry, graphite-based chain lubricant.
14. On liquid cooled models, check the coolant level and all coolant hoses and connections for deterioration or cracks. Add properly mixed coolant as necessary.
15. On fan cooled models, clean the engine cooling fins and all vents.
16. On EFI models, place the rear of the snowmobile on a shielded safety stand; then start the engine. Allow the engine to idle; then using a long stiff wire with a hooked end, raise the oil-injection pump control arm to the wide-open position until the engine starts to smoke heavily. Release the control arm and turn off the engine.
17. On electric start models, charge the battery; then connect the battery cables making sure to connect the positive cable first. Test the electric start system.
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7. Inspect the entire brake system, all controls, headlight, taillight, brakelight, ski wear bars, and headlight aim; adjust or replace as necessary.
8. Inspect each spark plug. Replace, gap, or clean as necessary.
9. Adjust the track to the proper tension and alignment. Lock the jam nuts.
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After Break-In Checkup
(100 Miles)
The 100 mile checkup offered by some dealerships reduces problems and warranty costs. A program of this kind should be offered by all dealerships. Many dealer­ships have added the price of the checkup into the selling price of the snowmobile, and others offer it as a bonus to the customers who purchase snowmobiles from their dealership.
There are three areas that require adjustment after the break-in period in order to obtain peak performance. These areas are the following.
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A. Carburetor jetting
B. Drive belt deflection
C. Track tension and alignment
CARBURETOR JETTING
Models)
ated gasoline affect the carburetion needed for optimum engine performance. The carburetor main jets must be changed in conjunction with changes in operating alti­tude, oxygenated gasoline usage, and temperature.
DRIVE BELT DEFLECTION — Drive belt deflection is very important to the snowmobile. Even if it is checked and is correct when the snowmobile is set up, it does change (more so during the break-in period). This is because the rubber engine mounts and the rubber snubber on the torque link will all take a “set” during the first 100 miles, which allows the distance between the drive clutch and driven pulley to shorten. When this happens, the snowmobile will appear to have a too long drive belt. To add to this, the drive belt itself wears and stretches some­what. This all leads to a low-end performance problem and, if not corrected, causes premature drive belt wear.
After the break-in period, drive belt deflection should be checked according to the instructions given in this man­ual. To correct for too much deflection, washer(s) from between the driven pulley sheaves can be removed to “tighten the drive belt” and allow the belt to return to the proper ratio for drive clutch engagement.
DRIVE BELT BREAK-IN — It is critical for maximum drive belt life to allow the belt to break in before subject­ing it to hard use such as wide-open-throttle operation or hill climbing.
The first 20 miles on the drive belt should be at 1/2 throt­tle or lower. This will allow the belt to cure totally before it is subjected to hard use.
If this procedure isn’t followed, it is possible to destroy a new drive belt in less than 50 miles. This should be explained to customers at the time of drive belt sales.
To increase the life of a drive belt, it is very important that the belt be warmed up before subjecting it to any type of use. In cold temperature (0° or below), the engine should be allowed to idle for a period of 8 to 10 minutes. This will allow heat from the engine compartment to soften the drive belt. Not only will this procedure increase belt life but will also help prevent engine damage from cold sei­zure.
— Altitude, temperature, and the use of oxygen-
(2-Stroke Carbureted
! WARNING
When following the above procedure, the operator must not leave the snowmobile unattended during the warm-up period.
TRACK TENSION AND ALIGNMENT — There is a certain amount of stretch on all tracks during the first 500 miles. The track must be adjusted after the first 50 to 100 miles to the specifications given in the Setup and Pre­delivery Manual and periodically thereafter. If these adjustments aren’t performed, the track may “derail” which leads to track and slide rail damage.
Along with these three major areas, there are also other areas that should be checked and adjusted during the “After Break-In Checkup.” A checklist to assist you with this service follows. Not only will the customer be hap­pier, but it also gets the customer back into your dealer­ship, which in many cases will mean additional sales in accessories, belts, oil, etc.
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After Break-In
Checkup Checklist
Below is a recommended list of items to check after the break-in period. By performing this inspection, warranty cost can be reduced and customer satisfac­tion can be increased.
The recommended mileage for this inspection is between 100 and 300 miles. Please encourage the cus­tomers to have this important checkup done.
R Jet carburetor(s) according to average
temperature, type of gasoline being used, and altitude
R Adjust drive belt deflection
R Adjust track tension and alignment
R Adjust throttle cable tension
R Check oil-injection pump adjustment
R Check engine idle
R Check coolant level
R Check chain case lubricant level
R Check lights (high/low beam, brakelight)
R Check safety switch operation
R Check driveshaft area for any rubbing
components
R Check steering hardware for tightness
R Check skid frame and A-arm mounting
hardware for tightness
R Check brake lever travel and adjustment
R Grease all lubrication points
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Each operator should be instructed to drive the snowmo­bile for several minutes at a low throttle setting to warm the belt up before using wide-open-throttle. This practice should be followed on all models for maximum belt life.
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Torque Conversions
ft-lb x 0.1383 = kg-m
ft-lb kg-m ft-lb kg-m ft-lb kg-m ft-lb kg-m ft-lb kg-m
1 0.1 21 2.9 41 5.7 61 8.4 81 11.2
2 0.3 22 3.0 42 5.8 62 8.6 82 11.3
3 0.4 23 3.2 43 5.8 63 8.7 83 11.5
4 0.6 24 3.3 44 6.1 64 8.9 84 11.6
5 0.7 25 3.5 45 6.2 65 9.0 85 11.8
6 0.8 26 3.6 46 6.4 66 9.1 86 11.9
7 1.0 27 3.7 47 6.5 67 9.3 87 12.0
8 1.1 28 3.9 48 6.6 68 9.4 88 12.2
9 1.2 29 4.0 49 6.8 69 9.5 89 12.3
10 1.4 30 4.2 50 6.9 70 9.7 90 12.5
11 1.5 31 4.3 51 7.1 71 9.8 91 12.6
12 1.7 32 4.4 52 7.2 72 10.0 92 12.8
13 1.8 33 4.6 53 7.3 73 10.1 93 12.9
14 1.9 34 4.7 54 7.5 74 10.2 94 13.0
15 2.1 35 4.8 55 7.6 75 10.4 95 13.1
16 2.2 36 5.0 56 7.7 76 10.5 96 13.3
17 2.4 37 5.1 57 7.9 77 10.7 97 13.4
18 2.5 38 5.3 58 8.0 78 10.8 98 13.6
19 2.6 39 5.4 59 8.2 79 10.9 99 13.7
20 2.8 40 5.5 60 8.3 80 11.1 100 13.8
kg-m x 7.235 = ft-lb
Tightening Torque
(General Bolts)
Type of Bolt
(Conventional or
4 Marked Bolt)
(7 Marked Bolt)
Thread
Diameter
A (mm)
5 0.2-0.4 1.5-3.0 6 0.4-0.7 3.0-5.0 8 1.0-1.6 7.0-11.5
10 2.2-3.5 16.0-25.5
5 0.3-0.6 2.0-4.5 6 0.8-1.2 6.0-8.5 8 1.8-2.8 13.0-20.0
10 4.0-6.0 29.0-43.5
Tightening Torque
kg-m ft-lb
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Fraction/Decimal
Conversion Chart
8ths 16ths 32nds 64ths 64ths (cont)
1/8 = .125 1/16 = .0625 1/32 = .03125 1/64 = .015625 33/64 = .515625 1/4 = .250 3/16 = .1875 3/32 = .09375 3/64 = .046875 35/64 = .546875 3/8 = .375 5/16 = .3125 5/32 = .15625 5/64 = .078125 37/64 = .578125 1/2 = .500 7/16 = .4375 7/32 = .21875 7/64 = .109375 39/64 = .609375 5/8 = .625 9/16 = .5625 9/32 = .28125 9/64 = .140625 41/64 = .640625 3/4 = .750 11/16 = .6875 11/32 = .34375 11/64 = .171875 43/64 = .671875 7/8 = .875 13/16 = .8125 13/32 = .40625 13/64 = .203125 45/64 = .703125
15/16 = .9375 15/32 = .46875 15/64 = .234370 47/64 = .734375 — 17/32 = .53125 17/64 = .265625 49/64 = .765625 — 19/32 = .59375 19/64 = .296875 51/64 = .796875 — 21/32 = .65625 21/64 = .328125 53/64 = .828125 — 23/32 = .71875 23/64 = .359375 55/64 = .859375 — 25/32 = .78125 25/64 = .390625 57/64 = .890625 — 27/32 = .84375 27/64 = .421875 59/64 = .921875 — 29/32 = .90625 29/64 = .453125 61/64 = .953125 — 31/32 = .96875 31/64 = .484375 63/64 = .984375
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Drill Bit Sizes
(Number)
No. Size of Drill in
Inches
1 .2280 21 .1590 41 .0960 61 .0390 2 .2210 22 .1570 42 .0935 62 .0380 3 .2130 23 .1540 43 .0890 63 .0370 4 .2090 24 .1520 44 .0860 64 .0360 5 .2055 25 .1495 45 .0820 65 .0350 6 .2040 26 .1470 46 .0810 66 .0330 7 .2010 27 .1440 47 .0785 67 .0320 8 .1990 28 .1405 48 .0760 68 .0310
9 .1960 29 .1360 49 .0730 69 .0292 10 .1935 30 .1285 50 .0700 70 .0280 11 .1910 31 .1200 51 .0670 71 .0260 12 .1890 32 .1160 52 .0635 72 .0250 13 .1850 33 .1130 53 .0595 73 .0240 14 .1820 34 .1110 54 .0550 74 .0225 15 .1800 35 .1100 55 .0520 75 .0210 16 .1770 36 .1065 56 .0465 76 .0200 17 .1730 37 .1040 57 .0430 77 .0180 18 .1695 38 .1015 58 .0420 78 .0160 19 .1660 39 .0995 59 .0410 79 .0145 20 .1610 40 .0980 60 .0400 80 .0135
Chart
No. Size of Drill in
Inches
No. Size of Drill in
Inches
No. Size of Drill in
Inches
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MM/IN. Conversion
Chart
mm in. mm in. mm in. mm in. mm in.
.01 .00039 .41 .01614 .81 .03189 21 .82677 61 2.40157 .02 .00079 .42 .01654 .82 .03228 22 .86614 62 2.44094 .03 .00118 .43 .01693 .83 .03268 23 .90551 63 2.48031 .04 .00157 .44 .01732 .84 .03307 24 .94488 64 2.51968 .05 .00197 .45 .01772 .85 .03346 25 .98425 65 2.55905 .06 .00236 .46 .01811 .86 .03386 26 1.02362 66 2.59842 .07 .00276 .47 .01850 .87 .03425 27 1.06299 67 2.63779 .08 .00315 .48 .01890 .88 .03465 28 1.10236 68 2.67716 .09 .00354 .49 .01929 .89 .03504 29 1.14173 69 2.71653 .10 .00394 .50 .01969 .90 .03543 30 1.18110 70 2.75590 .11 .00433 .51 .02008 .91 .03583 31 1.22047 71 2.79527 .12 .00472 .52 .02047 .92 .03622 32 1.25984 72 2.83464 .13 .00512 .53 .02087 .93 .03661 33 1.29921 73 2.87401 .14 .00551 .54 .02126 .94 .03701 34 1.33858 74 2.91338 .15 .00591 .55 .02165 .95 .03740 35 1.37795 75 2.95275 .16 .00630 .56 .02205 .96 .03780 36 1.41732 76 2.99212 .17 .00669 .57 .02244 .97 .03819 37 1.45669 77 3.03149 .18 .00709 .58 .02283 .98 .03858 38 1.49606 78 3.07086 .19 .00748 .59 .02323 .99 .03898 39 1.53543 79 3.11023 .20 .00787 .60 .02362 1.0 .03937 40 1.57480 80 3.14960 .21 .00827 .61 .02402 1 .03937 41 1.61417 81 3.18897 .22 .00866 .62 .02441 2 .07874 42 1.65354 82 3.22834 .23 .00906 .63 .02480 3 .11811 43 1.69291 83 3.26771 .24 .00945 .64 .02520 4 .15748 44 1.73228 84 3.30708 .25 .00984 .65 .02559 5 .19685 45 1.77165 85 3.34645 .26 .01024 .66 .02598 6 .23622 46 1.81102 86 3.38582 .27 .01063 .67 .02638 7 .27559 47 1.85039 87 3.42519 .28 .01102 .68 .02677 8 .31496 48 1.88976 88 3.46456 .29 .01142 .69 .02717 9 .35433 49 1.92913 89 3.50393 .30 .01181 .70 .02756 10 .39370 50 1.96850 90 3.54330 .31 .01220 .71 .02795 11 .43307 51 2.00787 91 3.58267 .32 .01260 .72 .02835 12 .47244 52 2.04724 92 3.62204 .33 .01299 .73 .02874 13 .51181 53 2.08661 93 3.66141 .34 .01339 .74 .02913 14 .55118 54 2.12598 94 3.70078 .35 .01378 .75 .02953 15 .59055 55 2.16535 95 3.74015 .36 .01417 .76 .02992 16 .62992 56 2.20472 96 3.77952 .37 .01457 .77 .03032 17 .66929 57 2.24409 97 3.81889 .38 .01496 .78 .03071 18 .70866 58 2.28346 98 3.85826 .39 .01535 .79 .03110 19 .74803 59 2.32283 99 3.89763 .40 .01575 .80 .03150 20 .78740 60 2.36220 100 3.93700
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1-10
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Servicing Symbols
Listed in the table below are symbols indicating special instructions and other important information necessary for proper servicing. Please note the definition for each symbol. These symbols are used throughout this two-vol­ume set.
1
SYMBOL
DESCRIPTION
Torque control required
242 - apply blue Loctite #242 (p/n 1639-815) 243 - apply blue Loctite #243 (p/n 1639-413) 270 - apply green Loctite #270 (p/n 1639-817) 271 - apply red Loctite #271 (p/n 1639-820) 609 - apply green Loctite #609 (p/n 1639-821)
Lubricate with Arctic Cat 50:1 Injection Oil (p/n 0636-286) Lubricate with Arctic Cat Extreme 50:1 Injection Oil (p/n 0639-112)
Lubricate with Arctic Cat Low-Temp Grease (p/n 0636-593)
3B - Three Bond Sealant (p/n 0636-070) HT - High-Temp Sealant (p/n 0636-069) AS - Anti-Seize Thread Compound (p/n 0678-146)
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1-11
SECTION 2 — ENGINE
2
Engine ..................................................................... 2-2
Removing Engine (Table of Contents)..................... 2-2
Disassembling Engine (Table of Contents) ........... 2-12
Servicing Components (120 cc) ............................ 2-48
Cleaning and Inspecting Engine ........................... 2-58
Measuring Critical Components ............................ 2-62
2002 Arctic Cat Engine Specifications .................. 2-66
Assembling Engine (Table of Contents) ................ 2-67
Assembly Schematics (Table of Contents) .......... 2-114
Installing Engine (Table of Contents)................... 2-130
Troubleshooting Engine (120 cc)......................... 2-139
Troubleshooting Engine (Carbureted Models) ..... 2-140
Troubleshooting Engine (EFI Models) ................. 2-144
Engine Information (Table of Contents)............... 2-148
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TABLE OF
CONTENTS
2-1
Engine
This engine servicing section has been organized into sub-sections which show a progression for the com­plete servicing of the Arctic Cat engine. For consis­tency purposes, this section shows a complete and thorough progression; however, for efficiency it may be preferable to remove the engine as a complete assembly, to remove and disassemble only those com­ponents which need to be addressed, and to service only those components. Also, some components may vary from model to model. The technician should use discretion and sound judgment.
NOTE: Some illustrations and photographs used in this section are used for clarity purposes only and are not designed to depict actual conditions.
2. Remove the two cap screws securing the steering post to the steering post support. Account for two bearing halves, two lock nuts, and a bearing retainer.
A023A
3. Pull the steering post up and back and then out of the lower steering post bearing.
Removing Engine
Table of Contents
120 cc Model........................................................... 2-2
Twin F/C Models...................................................... 2-3
500/600/800 cc Twin Models................................... 2-5
550 cc Models ......................................................... 2-7
Triple Models ........................................................... 2-9
Removing Engine
(120 cc Model)
NOTE: The drive chain must be removed in order to remove the engine (see Drive Chain and Sprock­ets sub-section in Section 8).
1. Disconnect the choke and throttle cables from the carburetor; then on each cable, loosen the adjustment jam nut closest to the carburetor and remove the cables from the bracket. Route the cables out of the way.
4. Remove the two lock nuts securing the tie rods to the steering post; then remove the tie rods from the steering post. Place the steering post out of the way on the right-hand side of the engine compartment.
A024
5. Cut the cable tie; then disconnect all wires (a total of four) at the front of the engine. Route them out of the way.
2-2
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A046A
6. Turn the gas tank shut-off valve to the CLOSED position.
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A047
Next
! WARNING
Whenever any maintenance or inspection is made on a fuel system when there may be fuel leakage, there should be no welding, smoking, open flames, etc., in the area.
7. Disconnect the fuel hose from the carburetor.
NOTE: Be prepared to wipe up any fuel spillage.
8. Pull the recoil starter rope out approximately 60 cm (24 in.); then tie a slip-knot in the starter rope below the console and allow the rope to slowly retract against the starter case.
9. Remove the knot at the handle and remove the handle; then thread the rope through the bushing in the console.
10. At this point, scribe a line at the front of the engine and measure the distance between the crankshaft and the driveshaft. Record the measurement for installing purposes.
NOTE: The front center plug is to access the oil
drain plug.
13. Place the snowmobile in the upright position; then on the left-hand side of the engine, remove the three cap screws securing the engine and brake bracket to the front end.
A050A
14. Remove the engine from the engine compartment.
2
A048
11. Lay the snowmobile on its side.
NOTE: A piece of cardboard should be used to
protect the finish.
12. Using a flat-blade screwdriver, remove the four belly pan plugs covering the engine mounting cap screws; then remove the cap screws. Account for eight washers and four lock nuts.
Removing Engine
(Twin F/C Models)
NOTE: If equipped with electric start, disconnect
the battery.
1. Turn the gas tank shut-off valve to the CLOSED position.
2. Open the belt guard.
3. Remove the drive belt; then remove the plug from the belly pan.
NOTE: Before installing the clutch puller, apply oil to the threads of the puller and a small amount of grease to the tip of the puller.
4. Remove the bolt and lock washers securing the drive clutch to the crankshaft; then using the Drive Clutch Puller (p/n 0644-207) and an impact wrench or a breaker bar and Drive Clutch Spanner Wrench (p/n 0644-136), tighten the puller. If the drive clutch will not release, sharply strike the head of the puller with a hammer. Repeat this procedure until the clutch releases.
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A049
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2-3
Next
AF472D
AF476D
5. Remove the clutch from the engine compartment.
AF473D
8. Remove the springs securing the expansion chamber to the exhaust manifold and resonator; then remove expansion chamber.
6. Remove the cap screw and washer securing the driven pulley; then slide the pulley off the driven shaft. Account for and note the position of any alignment washers.
NOTE: If the driven pulley will not slide off the driven shaft, use the Driven Pulley Puller (p/n 0744-023) for removal.
SC013D
7. Remove the torque bumper. Account for any engine mount shims.
AC067
9. Remove the cap screws and lock washers securing the recoil starter; then remove the starter. Leave it in the engine compartment.
AB082
10. Disconnect the four-prong main wiring harness connector and the CDI unit wiring harness.
11. Disconnect the impulse hose from the crankcase.
12. Disconnect the spark plug caps.
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2-4
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13. Loosen the carburetor flange clamp(s). Remove the carburetor(s) from the intake flange(s) and carburetor boot(s). Place the carburetor(s) to the side in an upright position.
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NOTE: If equipped with electric start, remove the lock nuts and washers securing the starter motor to the engine mounting bracket and remove the starter motor.
Removing Engine
(500/600/800 cc Twin Models)
14. Disconnect the oil-injection cable from the oil-
injection pump. Account for the E-clip and washer; then disconnect the oil supply hose from the pump and plug the hose to prevent leakage.
AB081
NOTE: If equipped with electric start, remove the two lock nuts and washers securing the starter motor bracket; then remove the three remaining cap screws, washers, and lock washers securing the starter motor bracket and ground cable. Remove the starter motor bracket.
15. Remove the cap screws securing the engine to the
front end. Account for washers, cap screws, and lock nuts.
NOTE: Some engines are equipped with Arctic Power Valves (APV). Closely observe the NOTE: introducing this important information.
NOTE: If applicable, disconnect the battery cables.
1. Turn the gas tank shut-off valve to the CLOSED position.
2. Remove all springs securing the expansion chamber(s) and remove the expansion chamber(s) from the engine compartment.
3. Open the belt guard; then remove the drive belt.
4. Remove the plug from the belly pan. Using a ½-in. 12-point socket, remove the cap screw and lock washer securing the drive clutch to the crankshaft; then using Clutch Puller (p/n 0644-207) and an impact wrench or a breaker bar and Spanner Wrench (p/n 0644-136), tighten the puller. If the drive clutch will not release, sharply strike the head of the puller. Repeat this step until the clutch releases. Remove the drive clutch. If applicable, account for the two sleeves.
2
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AL201D
16. Lift the engine out of the engine compartment.
17. Remove the cap screws, washers, and lock washers securing the engine mounting brackets to the engine; then remove the brackets.
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5. Remove the cap screw and washer securing the driven pulley; then slide the driven pulley off the driven shaft. Account for a key, stub shaft, and alignment washers.
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AN380D
AF120D
2-5
Next
NOTE: If the driven pulley is tight on the driven shaft, pull the driven pulley off using the Driven Pulley Puller (p/n 0744-023).
NOTE: Steps 6 through 12 are for APV equipped engines.
6. Remove the two cap screws securing the servomotor cover.
AP116A
7. Using a small screwdriver, pry off the cable retaining cover.
AP118B
10. Remove the screw securing the servomotor mounting plate to the air-intake silencer; then pull the mounting plate forward and up to remove it from the silencer. Lay the mounting plate aside out of the way.
AP117A
8. Rotate the servomotor actuator counterclockwise to loosen the cable; then pull the cable housings out of the holder.
AP118A
AP127
11. Lift the silencer cover and remove the CDI unit; then lay the unit aside out of the way.
12. Remove the two APV drain hoses and route them out of the way.
AP128A
13. If applicable, remove the machine screw and washer securing the mounting plate (for the ignition coil and fuel pump) to the air-intake silencer.
Back
9. Pull the cable up and out of the cable housing holder; then slide each cable drum to the left and out of the servomotor actuator.
2-6
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14. Remove the screws securing the air-intake silencer; then move the silencer forward and out of the engine compartment.
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Next
15. Disconnect the oil-injection cable/control rod from the oil-injection pump; then disconnect the oil­supply hose from the pump and plug the hose to prevent oil drainage.
16. Loosen the flange clamps securing the throttle body/carburetor to the flange; then remove the throttle body/carburetor. Place them to one side in an upright position.
17. On carbureted models, disconnect the impulse hose from the crankcase.
AP126
24. Loosen the clamp securing the supply hose to the coolant tank and remove the hose. Loosen the clamp securing the hose to the thermostat cap; then remove the hose from the cap.
AN385D
18. Loosen the engine torque bumper and remove the left rear engine nut and washer.
AN610D
19. Secure the hood with a tie-down strap; then remove the hood cable.
20. Disconnect all electrical wires from the engine.
21. Remove the recoil starter from the engine. Leave it in the engine compartment.
NOTE: If applicable, disconnect the solenoid-to-
starter motor cable from the starter motor.
22. Loosen the cap screws/lock nuts securing the engine mounting brackets to the front end.
23. Remove the cap from the coolant drain hose and route the hose into a suitable container. Remove the filler cap; then once the coolant stops draining, install the drain hose cap.
NOTE: Inspect the engine to ensure all wires,
hoses, and cables have been removed.
25. Lift the engine with mounting brackets out of the engine compartment.
26. Remove the cap screws securing the engine mounting brackets to the crankcase; then remove the brackets.
27. Remove the exhaust manifold from the engine. Account for nuts, washers, and gaskets.
28. Remove the clamp securing the coolant supply hose to the water pump. Then remove the hose from the pump.
Removing Engine
(550 cc Models)
1. Disconnect the battery cables making sure to disconnect the negative cable first.
2. Turn the gas tank shut-off valve to the CLOSED position.
3. Remove the cable tie and positive battery cable from the starter motor.
4. On the Wide Track, remove the two lock nuts securing the starter motor to the engine mounting bracket; then place the starter motor and end cap off to the side.
5. Remove the springs securing the expansion chamber to the exhaust manifold, front end, and resonator. Remove the expansion chamber and grafoil gasket.
2
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2-7
Next
6. Attach a long piece of fuel hose to the engine coolant drain (located on the exhaust side of the engine). Route the hose outside the engine compartment and into a container. Open the drain and remove the filler cap. Once the coolant stops flowing, remove the hose and tighten the drain valve.
AP058
7. Open the belt guard: then remove the drive belt.
NOTE: On the Wide Track, remove the machine screws securing the side panel to the belly pan; then remove the side panel. On the Pantera 550 and ZL 550, remove the rubber plug from the belly pan.
AF459D
9. Remove the cap screw and washer securing the driven pulley; then slide the driven pulley off the driven shaft. Account for a key and alignment washers.
AM115D
8. Using a ½-in. twelve-point socket, remove the bolt and lock washer securing the drive clutch to the crankshaft. Using the Clutch Puller (p/n 0644-207) and an impact wrench or a breaker bar and the Flywheel Pulley/Spanner Wrench (p/n 0144-310), tighten the puller. If the drive clutch will not release, sharply strike the head of the puller. Repeat this step until the clutch releases. Remove the drive clutch. If applicable, account for the two sleeves.
NOTE: On the Wide Track, remove the lock nut securing the belly pan and bumper to the bumper support tube; then remove the rear plug from the belly pan.
AF120D
NOTE: If the driven pulley is tight on the driven shaft, pull the driven pulley off using the Driven Pulley Puller (p/n 0744-023).
10. Loosen the flange clamp securing each carburetor
to its flange; then remove the carburetors. Position the carburetors to one side in an upright position.
AJ172
11. Disconnect the impulse hose from the crankcase.
12. Remove the cable tie securing the engine and CDI
wiring harnesses to the engine; then disconnect the main wiring harness from the engine and CDI wiring harnesses.
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2-8
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13. Remove the spark plug caps and the cable tie securing the temperature-gauge sender wire; then disconnect the sender wire.
14. On the Wide Track, remove the ground wire from the magneto housing.
15. Remove the E-clip and washer securing the oil­injection cable; then disconnect the oil-injection cable from the pump. Disconnect the oil-supply hose from the pump and plug the hose to prevent oil drainage.
AN009
AN013
20. Lift the engine with mounting brackets out of the engine compartment.
! CAUTION
Do not use the starter motor shaft to lift the engine. Damage may occur.
21. Remove the engine mounting brackets.
2
16. Loosen the clamp securing the supply hose to the water pump housing; then remove the hose from the water pump. Loosen the clamp securing the hose to the thermostat cap; then remove the hose from the cap.
17. Remove the four cap screws and lock washers securing the recoil starter; then remove the starter from the engine. Leave it in the engine compartment.
NOTE: On the Pantera 550, account for the
ground wire.
18. Support the hood; then remove the hood cable from the exhaust manifold.
19. Remove the mounting hardware securing the engine to the front end.
NOTE: On the Wide Track, account for shims and note their position on the left rear engine mount for assembly purposes.
Removing Engine
(Triple Models)
NOTE: Some engines are equipped with Arctic Power Valves (APV). Closely observe the NOTE: introducing this important information.
1. Turn the gas tank shut-off valve to the CLOSED position.
AL658D
2. Secure the hood with a hold-down strap; then remove the hood cable.
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AR321
3. Remove the springs securing the expansion chambers to the header pipes, the front end, and the resonator. Remove the expansion chambers and three grafoil gaskets.
NOTE: Number the expansion chambers before
removing to aid in assembly.
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2-9
Next
4. Remove the cap screws securing the resonator. Account for and note the location of the engine ground cable with star washer, washers, bushings, spacers, and retaining nuts.
5. Attach a long piece of fuel hose to the engine coolant drain. Route the hose outside the engine compartment and into a container. Open the drain valve; then remove the coolant filler cap to vent the system. Once the coolant stops flowing, remove the hose and tighten the drain valve.
AQ123
NOTE: Steps 9 through 15 are for APV equipped
engines.
9. Remove the two cap screws securing the servomotor cover.
AP116A
10. Using a small screwdriver, pry off the cable retaining cover.
6. Open the belt guard; then remove the drive belt.
7. Remove the plug from the belly pan; then using a 1/2 in. twelve-point socket, remove the bolt and lock washer securing the drive clutch to the crankshaft. Using the Drive Clutch Puller (p/n 0644-207) and an impact wrench or a breaker bar and Spanner Wrench (p/n 0644-136), tighten the puller. If the drive clutch will not release, sharply strike the head of the puller. Repeat this step until the clutch releases. Remove the drive clutch. If applicable, account for the two sleeves.
AF472D
AP117A
11. Rotate the servomotor actuator counterclockwise to loosen the cable; then pull the cable housings out of the holder.
Back
8. Remove the cap screw securing the driven pulley; then slide the driven pulley off the driven shaft. Account for a stub shaft, the location of all washers, and a key.
NOTE: If the driven pulley is tight on the shaft, pull the driven pulley off using the Driven Pulley Puller (p/n 0744-023).
2-10
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AP118A
12. Pull the cable up and out of the cable housing holder; then slide each cable drum to the left and out of the servomotor actuator.
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Next
AP118B
AN614D
13. Remove the screw securing the servomotor mounting plate to the air-intake silencer; then pull the mounting plate forward and up to remove it from the silencer. Lay the mounting plate aside out of the way.
AP127
14. Lift the silencer cover and remove the CDI unit; then lay the unit aside out of the way.
15. Remove the two APV drain hoses and route them out of the way.
17. Disconnect the impulse hose from the crankcase.
18. Loosen the engine torque bumper; then remove the left-side rear engine nut and washer.
2
AN610D
19. Disconnect the engine and timing sensor wiring harnesses from the main wiring harness. Remove the spark-plug caps from the spark plugs. Remove the cap screw securing the two ground wires to the magneto housing cover.
20. Remove the E-clip and washer securing the oil­injection cable; then disconnect the oil-injection cable from the oil-injection pump. Disconnect the oil-supply hose and the oil-output hose from the pump and plug the hoses to prevent oil drainage.
Back
AP128A
16. Label the carburetors. Loosen the flange clamp securing each carburetor to its flange; then remove the carburetors from the intake flanges. Position the carburetors to one side in an upright position.
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AN392D
2-11
Next
21. Loosen the clamp securing the coolant supply hose to the water pump housing; then remove the hose from the water pump. Loosen the clamp securing the hose to the thermostat cap; then remove the hose from the cap.
Disassembling Engine
Table of Contents
22. Disconnect the temperature-gauge sender wire.
AJ663
23. Remove the cap screws securing the engine mounting brackets to the front end. Account for mounting hardware.
24. Lift the MAG-side of the engine. Remove the four cap screws and lock washers securing the recoil starter; then remove the starter from the engine. Leave it in the engine compartment.
NOTE: If applicable, disconnect the solenoid- to-
starter motor cable from the starter motor.
120 cc Model......................................................... 2-12
370/440 cc Models ................................................ 2-17
550 cc Models ....................................................... 2-20
570 cc Models ....................................................... 2-23
500/600 cc Twin Models........................................ 2-29
800 cc Models ....................................................... 2-34
600 cc Triple Model ............................................... 2-39
1000 cc Models ..................................................... 2-45
Disassembling Engine
(120 cc Model)
1. Remove the oil drain plug and drain the oil; then install the oil plug and tighten securely.
AN012
25. Lift the engine with engine mounting brackets out of the engine compartment.
26. Remove the mounting brackets from the crankcase.
GM300D
2. Remove the wing nut securing the air cleaner end cap to the air cleaner housing.
3. Remove the cap screw and flange nuts securing the air cleaner housing to the carburetor and engine.
A002
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2-12
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GF314D
GF208D
4. Remove the air breather hose from the air cleaner housing; then remove the air cleaner housing from the carburetor. Account for the gasket.
A001
6. Slide the carburetor off the mounting studs. Account for a gasket, insulator block, and a gasket.
2
GF318D
7. Remove the recoil starter/fan housing assembly.
Back
GF316D
5. Mark the locations of the springs for assembly; then disconnect the rod and spring from the carburetor.
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8. Remove the screws securing the recoil starter pulley to the flywheel; then remove the nut securing the flywheel to the crankshaft.
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GM201D
2-13
Next
GM202D
GM203D
GE318D
12. Remove the cylinder head cover.
9. Using a flywheel puller, remove the flywheel.
GM110D
10. Remove the high tension lead from the spark plug and two wire forms; then disconnect the ignition coil wire.
11. Remove the cap screws securing the ignition coil to the crankcase housing.
GM205D
13. Remove the air breather body assembly from the cylinder head cover. Account for a gasket.
GM206D
14. Remove the screws securing the reed stopper to the air breather body assembly.
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2-14
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Next
GM207D
15. Remove the lock nuts and pivots securing the rocker arms to the cylinder head.
GM208D
16. Remove the push rods.
GM210D
2
GM211D
18. Remove the cap screws securing the crankcase side cover to the crankcase. Account for dowel pins and a gasket.
Back
GM209D
17. Remove the cap screws securing the head to the cylinder; then remove the head and account for a gasket. Note the location of the dowel pins.
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GM212D
GM213D
2-15
Next
19. Remove the washer from camshaft and note the location of the timing marks on the crankshaft and camshaft gears.
21. Rotate the crankshaft until the piston is at the top of the stroke; then using a chisel, loosen the connecting rod nut locking tabs.
GM214D
GM215D
20. Remove the camshaft; then remove the tappets.
GM119D
22. Note the direction of the arrow on the connecting rod and mark the connecting rod and end cap for reference during installation.
GM121D
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2-16
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GM216D
GM217D
GM120D
23. Remove the connecting rod end cap and account for the splasher plate and lock tab.
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Next
GM123D
24. Using two flat blade screwdrivers between the connecting rod studs and the crankshaft web, push upward on the piston.
GM122D
25. Remove the crankshaft.
GM126D
Disassembling Engine
(370/440 cc Models)
1. Remove the four nuts and lock washers securing the exhaust manifold; then remove the exhaust manifold. Account for two gaskets.
2. Noting the location of the longer cap screws for assembly purposes, remove the 14 cap screws, lock washers, and washers securing the top and exhaust-side cooling shrouds.
3. Lift the top cooling shroud off the engine and slide the exhaust-side cooling shroud off the exhaust­manifold studs. Account for two exhaust-manifold shroud gaskets.
2
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GM124D
26. Remove the cap screws securing the oil level sensor plate to the crankcase; then remove the plate.
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4. Disconnect the two oil-injection hoses from their fittings on the intake manifold (single carburetor) or on the adapter plates (twin carburetor).
5. A. On the 370 cc, remove the nuts securing the
intake manifold; then remove the manifold with flange from the engine. Account for two insulators. Discard the gaskets.
B. On the 440 cc, remove the nuts, lock washers,
and washers securing the intake flanges; then remove the flanges from the engine. Remove the screws securing the adapter plates; then remove the adapter plates. Discard the gaskets.
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AB014
2-17
Next
6. Remove the intake-manifold cooling shroud from the engine. Discard the two gaskets.
7. Using Flywheel Spanner Wrench (p/n 0144-007) to secure the crankshaft, remove the three cap screws and lock washers securing the starter pulley to the flywheel. Remove the starter pulley; then carefully pry the fan belt drive pulley from its seated position on the flywheel and remove.
AB020
8. Temporarily install the starter pulley on the flywheel with three cap screws. Using the flywheel spanner wrench to secure the crankshaft, loosen and remove the flywheel nut and washers.
AB015
11. Install a protective cap onto the end of the crankshaft.
NOTE: A suitable protective cap can be made by welding a 3 mm (1/8 in.) plate on one side of a spare flywheel nut.
AB021
NOTE: If an impact wrench is being used, use of
a flywheel spanner wrench will not be necessary.
9. Remove the cap screws securing the starter pulley to the flywheel and remove the pulley.
10. Remove the flange nuts securing the fan case to the crankcase; then remove the fan case.
NOTE: For further servicing of the axial fan com-
ponents, see section 3.
AB022
! CAUTION
To prevent damage to the crankshaft, thread a protective cap onto the crankshaft. The puller must bottom on the cap and not on the crankshaft. Also, do not thread puller bolts more than 12.7 mm (1/2 in.) into the flywheel. Damage to the coils may result.
12. Using the Flywheel Puller/Spanner Wrench (p/n 0144-310) or suitable equivalent, remove the flywheel from the crankshaft by tightening the puller bolt, striking the head of the puller bolt with a hammer, and tightening again. Repeat procedure until the flywheel is free. Account for the key in the end of the crankshaft.
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