Aquascape MicroPond, MicroPondless Kits User Manual

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MicroSeries

Installation Instructions & Owner’s Manual

• Step-by-step installation
instructions for MicroPond
MicroPondless
MicroSkim

• Helpful Guide for Maintenance
and Seasonal Care

®

Waterfall Kits,

®

and MicroFalls

®

Kits,

®

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MicroPondless

MicroPond

®

Kit

®

Kit

Made in U.S.A.

Aquascape, Inc.
St. Charles, IL 60174 • Brampton, ON L6T 5V7
www.aquascapeinc.com

MicroSeries

Installation & Maintenance Instructions

Congratulations on the purchase of Aquascape’s MicroSeries Pond Filtration system.

We’ve scaled down the professional
version of these filters in order to
meet the needs and desires of the
do-it-yourself pond enthusiast. The
MicroSeries pond filtration systems
work in harmony with Mother Nature,
and never against her.

This means that ‘low-maintenance’
will characterize your water gardening

PD

Applies to

MicroPond® Kit System

experience because Mother Nature
will be doing 98% of the maintenance
work for you. If you have further
questions, feel free to check out
www.aquascapeinc.com.

This booklet contains the instruc­tions for all MicroSeries units. The
MicroPond® system is designed to
have a waterfall and pond, while the

MicroPondless® system is designed
to have a waterfall disappearing
into a bed of gravel, i.e. “Pondless.”
You’ll find that many of the steps
are the same for both styles of water
gardens. Follow the step-by-step
instructions in the order they are
listed. Skipping steps or changing
the order will create extra work in
the long run. We want to make this

experience as easy as possible,
allowing you to concentrate on the
creativity needed to design your
waterfall. In other words ... stick
to the plan and your water garden
project will turn out to be a beautiful
addition to your landscape!

PL

MicroPondless® Kit System

Applies to cases where steps vary between

!

Applies to

CAUTION. Step varies between kits.

®

MicroPond

and MicroPondless® kits.

PD/PL

Applies to both MicroPond®

and MicroPondless® kits.

2

PD/PL

STEP 1

Locate & mark out your basin area

• We suggest

that you

use a

plain, old

garden

hose to

define the

shape of your

new water feature. The
hose is flexible, and can be pushed
and pulled in various shapes. Step
back, evaluate and modify your
design until you have something
that you really like.

• The MicroPond® Kit is available

in three sizes (4’x6’, 6’x8’, and
8’x11’) and the MicroPondless®
Kit is available in one size (4’x6’).
Double check to make sure the
length and width of your layout

PD/PL

STEP 2

does not exceed the amount of
liner required for the pond.

• Be sure to locate your new water

garden close to a patio, deck,
porch, or other hardscape, so
you can sit and relax close to
your pond. Also, keep in mind
viewpoints of the water garden
and waterfalls from inside. Try to
make it visible from the kitchen,
family room, or bedroom for year­round enjoyment.

• Once you have the water garden

shaped and defined with your
hose, take a can of brightly
colored, highly visible spray paint
and outline the shape (around
the hose) on the grass.

(See fig. 1)

Fig. 1 Use a highly visible spray paint and outline the shape on the grass.

Place MicroSeries lters into position

• Since the MicroFalls® filter is typi-

cally the main waterfalls, it should
be positioned so it’s facing the
main viewing areas.

• Make sure it is placed close

to the edge of the MicroPond®/
MicroPondless® basin so you

PD/PL

STEP 3

can use the pond liner to con­nect up to the MicroFalls® filter
– unless you’re adding a stream.
Adding a stream will require the
MicroFalls® to be set further away
from the MicroPond®/MicroPond­less® basin and will require an

Lay plumbing

• To eliminate the need for trench-

ing, lay the kink-free pipe in a
place around the perimeter of the
MicroPond® or MicroPondless®
basin. This should be completed
before you begin your excavation

so the soil you remove from the
pond can cover the kink-free pipe,
disguising it from sight.

(See figs. 2 & 3)

extra section of stream liner. Your
local Aquascape supplier can
help you determine the additional
products required to build longer
streams and waterfalls.

®

MicroPond

maximize circulation, the Micro­Falls® and MicroSkim® are ideally
placed on opposite ends of the
pond, directly across from each
other. (See fig. 2)

Only: In order to

Fig. 2 & 3 Ideal placement

for MicroFalls
and plumbing.

®

, MicroSkim®

3

PD/PL

STEP 4

Hook up and level the MicroFalls

• The rst step is to install the bulk-

head fitting in the hole provided
in the back of the MicroFalls
rubber washer should be located
on the inside of the MicroFalls®.
Tighten the nut on the outside until
the rubber washer begins to bulge.
This should only be approximately

one turn past hand-tight. Be

careful not to over tighten the
nut, which could possibly crack
the bulkhead. Please note that
the bulkhead fitting is reverse
threaded. So, in other words,
turn the nut counterclockwise to
tighten! (See figs. 4 & 5)

• Now install the barb tting

included with your kit into the
bulkhead fitting. A PVC slip fitting
has also been included in case you

®

. The

are using flexible PVC pipe. Use
some of the silicone sealant to coat
the threads of the fitting, in order
to help provide a watertight seal.

• Now it’s time to position the Micro­Falls® in the desired location.

• The MicroFalls® should be set at

or slightly below the grade of the
yard. Simply remove a section of
sod or a few inches of soil in order
to create a firm foundation for
the MicroFalls® to sit. Design tip

- Keep the waterfall to the scale
of the yard! The goal should be to
create the perception that Mother
Nature herself has constructed
the waterfall. Avoid creating a
“volcanic look” by trying to raise
the MicroFalls® in a flat backyard.

®

• Be sure to compact the area

beneath the MicroFalls® box using
a hand tamper or some other heavy
flat object that can be pounded
onto the soil. This will help prevent
any future settling.

• Use a 2’ bubble level in order
to make sure your MicroFalls®
is properly set into position. Your
MicroFalls® should be level from
side-to-side and tilt forward ¼ of a
bubble on a 2’ level. This will make
sure the water comes over the front
of the MicroFalls® and covers the
entire spillway.

(See fig. 6)

• The lter is now ready for the

kink-free pipe and hose clamp to
be slipped onto the pipe fitting.

The connection is designed to be
tight and it may take some force
to get the pipe on the barb fitting.
Twisting the pipe clockwise may
help thread the pipe onto the
fitting. Have someone hold the
MicroFalls® in place in order to
prevent it from shifting out of level.

Once installed, the hose clamp can

be tightened to secure the pipe on
the fitting. (See figs. 5 & 7)

• Double check to make sure the

MicroFalls® is still level after
installing the plumbing.

Fig. 4 Attach bulkhead fitting.

Bulkhead

Fig. 5 Bulkhead assembly.

Rubber
Gasket

4

Plastic
Washer

Fig. 6 Level the MicroFalls® side to side as well as front to back.

Nut

Barbed

Fitting

Fig. 7 Finished bulkhead assembly.

PL

!

STEP 5

Excavate your MicroPondless® basin

The shape and depth

• Digging is very labor-intensive,

so pace yourself and get some
friends and family to help you.

• We suggest excavating the basin

no more than 24” deep. This
depth provides the proper water
volume in the basin to operate the
waterfalls. (See figs. 8 and 9)

Fig. 8

First, dig entire basin to 18” depth.

Deep Area for MicroSnorkel

24”

Fig. 9 Excavate the deep area of the basin.

MicroCentipede

• All of the soil removed from the

™

excavation can be spread and
compacted around the Micro-

®

, creating a berm. The filter

Falls
should be completely surrounded
by soil by the end of the project.

(See fig. 10)

18”

™

Module

Vault and

6”

18”

Leveling the edges

• One of the most important parts

of the excavation is getting the
perimeter of the basin level. An
excellent tool for this is a 2x4 set
across the basin. Set a 4-foot
bubble level on the 2x4 to make
sure the perimeter of the basin
is level. We recommend using a

Fig. 10 Soil backfilled around the MicroFalls® helps hide the filter

and creates a planting berm.

transit or sight level on larger
projects. Check your progress
several times while digging.

• Re-check all your measurements,

including length and width of ba­sin, plant shelf depth, and overall
basin depth.

0

PD

!

STEP 5

Excavate your MicroPond

The shape and depth

• Digging is very labor intensive,

so pace yourself and get some
friends and family to help you.

• We suggest excavating the pond

no more than 18-24” deep. This
depth provides the proper water

Fig. 11 First, dig entire pond one
shovel depth.

®

basin

levels required for aquatic plants
and is deep enough to keep
fish alive during winter. See the
maintenance section for more
information on caring for fish.

• The excavation should be dug with

a series of shelves. The shelves
will add stability to the walls of

Fig. 12 Dig second shelf one shovel depth
and start excavation of skimmer hole.

the pond and will also create
planting beds for different types
of aquatic plants.

• The rst shelf should be about

8-10” down (See fig. 11), or the
height of a standard shovel.

Fig. 13 Dig the pond to its max depth and finish

excavation of the skimmer hole.

• The second is typically down

another 8-10”. (See fig. 12)

• The third shelf (if desired) will be

excavated down another 6”
(See fig. 13), reaching a final
excavation of 24”.

5

Excavate your MicroPond® cont...

• All of the soil removed from the

excavation can be spread and
compacted around the Micro­Falls®, creating a berm. The filter
should be completely surrounded
by soil by the end of the project.

(See fig. 10 on previous page)

Design spaces for plants

• Design your shelves wider in areas

where you wish to place aquatic
plants. (See fig. 14)

• Marginal and bog plants require
a water depth up to about 10”,
so the top shelf is a perfect
location for these plants.

(See fig. 14)

• Water lilies will vary according to

species, but a depth of 12-24” at
the crown works best, so the sec­ond shelf or bottom of the pond
will work great for the lilies.

(See fig. 14)

• To make planting lilies easier, add

a few ‘lily pockets.’ These pockets
are simply depressions or bowls
cut into the soil 6-8” deep and
10-16” in diameter. The goal is
to create a natural looking pond,
and this is possible only if plant
pots are eliminated or completely
hidden. (See fig. 14)

Leveling the edges

• One of the most important parts

of the excavation is getting the
perimeter of the pond level and
setting the level of the water. An
excellent tool for this is a 2x4
set across the pond. Set a 4-foot
bubble level on the 2x4 to make
sure the perimeter of the pond
is level. We recommend using a
transit or sight level on larger
projects. Check your progress
several times while digging.

• It is typical to set the water level

2- 3” below the main viewing
area (patio, deck, etc.). This will
bring the water level of the pond
up close to the edge of the pond
without going over the sides.

(See fig. 15)

• Rough out an excavated area for

the MicroSkim®. Simply dig a hole
18” wide by 21” long (the outline
of the skimmer) and 18” below
the desired water level.

(See fig. 13)

• The skimmer should be excavated

down to a depth so that the pro­posed water level in the pond is
approximately ¾” below the top of
the opening of the skimmer.

• Re-check all your measurements,

including length and width of
pond, plant shelf depth,
and overall pond depth.

Viewing Area
(Patio, Deck or Lawn)

2” to 3”

Fig. 15 Set water level 2” - 3” below viewing area.

Marginal plants should be
removed from containers and
placed directly into the gravel

1st plant and rock shelf: shelf
varies 8” or greater wide, 1” to
12” deep

Set 6” to 12” size
cobblestones on verti­cal edges. Gravel on
all horizontal surfaces

2nd plant &
rock shelf: 16”
to 20” deep

Fig. 14 Pond excavation - side view of plant pockets.

6

Water line

Liner ends 1” to 2”
outside of pond

Mulch

Plant pocket 6” to 8” deep,
10” to 16” diameter

PD/PL

STEP 6

Install underlayment and liner

• Remove any sharp objects from

the excavated hole that may dam­age the liner.

• Unfold the underlayment fabric

and place it into your excavated
MicroPondless
basin. Starting from the bottom,
remove the slack from the under­layment, making sure it conforms
into all of the elevations.

• Now place the EPDM sh-safe

liner on top of the underlayment.

• The installation process is the

same as the underlayment,
starting at the bottom and
contouring the liner up and
out of the MicroPondless®/
MicroPond® basin. (See fig. 16)

PL

!

®

/MicroPond®

STEP 7

• Try to get the large folds out, but

the main goal is to make sure
that it’s lying flat and going into
all corners. Don’t try to get it
perfect—you will hide the liner
with rocks and gravel later.

• Make sure the liner is high enough

around the edges of the Micro­Pondless®/MicroPond® basin.
This should not be a problem if
you measured out the pond and
excavated it correctly. Problems can
be fixed by readjusting the liner into
the excavation, backfilling (making
the MicroPondless®/ MicroPond®
basin smaller) in areas where there
is not enough liner, or simply buying
a larger liner.

Installing the MicroSnorkel™ Vault
and MicroCentipede

™

Module

Fig. 16 Place the liner on top of the underlayment, following the same
installation procedures. Make sure liner is positioned in such a way that
allows it to extend and completely cover the opening on the MicroFalls®.

You’re getting off easy on this
step if you are installing the
MicroPondless
place the MicroSnorkel™ Vault and

0

PD

!

®

system. Simply

STEP 7

MicroCentipede™ Module back into
their proper positions on top of the
liner. (See fig. 17)

Installing the MicroSkim

Set up and level

the MicroSkim

• You’ve already roughed out a hole

approximately 21”(l) x 18” (w) x
18” (h) deep during the excavation
phase. Use a 2’ bubble level in
order to make sure your MicroSkim®
is properly set into position. Your
MicroSkim® should be level from
side to side and front to back.

• Install the bulkhead tting into the

overflow hole. Refer if needed back
to the steps under the “Hookup and
Level MicroFalls®” section for details
on installing the bulkhead fitting.

®

(See fig. 4 & 5) THIS NEEDS TO BE
DONE BEFORE THE SKIMMER IS
SET INTO PLACE, OTHERWISE YOU
CANNOT TIGHTEN THE BULKHEAD
FITTING.

• Make sure skimmer is set so the

desired water level in the pond is
approximately ¾" below the top of
skimmer opening. (See fig. 18)

Attaching the
MicroSkim

• Position the liner against the

MicroSkim® opening, making sure
there is slack below the opening.
This will help reduce tension on the

Fig. 17 Place The MicroSnorkel™ Vault and MicroCentipede
Module on top of the liner.

®

®

faceplate

faceplate when placing boulders in
front of the unit.

• Mark the outer perimeter of the

MicroSkim® opening on the liner,
then mark a second box 1.5” inside
of it. This insures that you don’t
cut too much of the liner, which
would result in a possible leak.

(See fig. 19)

• The hole located in the back of the

MicroSkim® is for the overflow. The
overflow will help maintain the
maximum water level in the pond
after rainfall, ensuring that your
skimmer works properly and water

does not travel over the edges of
the liner and cause problems with
hydrostatic pressure.

Ideal Water Level

3/4” Below

Front of Skimmer

Fig. 18 Cross section
of ideal water level viewed
from front of skimmer.

™

Soil Level

on 1st

Shelf

7

Installing the MicroSkim® cont...

• Cut the inner box using a pair of

scissors, and insert the skimmer
faceplate into the hole.

(See fig. 20)

• Make sure MicroSkim® faceplate

is in the upright position.

(See fig. 21)

• Temporarily install the faceplate

and liner to the skimmer using
two screws in the upper corners.
Using an awl or nail poke the
first hole in the liner all the way
through to the inside of the filter
box. Be careful not to dam-

age the threads on the nut
inserts when punching the

holes with the awl! Remove
the awl or nail while holding the
faceplate and liner in place and

begin threading one of the
screws into filter. Repeat this
process for the other screw.

(See fig. 22)

• Now remove the faceplate from

the skimmer, keeping the screws
installed through the faceplate
and liner.

• Apply a bead of sh-safe silicone

sealant around the skimmer
opening, over the nut inserts.
Pre-installing the two screws in
the earlier steps will make it easy
to line up the skimmer faceplate
after the silicone is applied and
will keep the silicone in as thick
of a bead as possible.

(See fig. 23)

• Replace the skimmer faceplate

and the two corner screws, and
then proceed with the bottom two
corners (See fig. 24). Make sure
the holes in the faceplate that
the weir flap clicks into are on
the bottom.

• With the 4 corners secured, you

may now punch the remaining
holes with your awl and thread in
all the screws. Again, be careful
not to damage the threads on the
nut inserts.

• Let dry for at least one hour before

introducing water!

Note: Power tools are not recom­mended for installing the screws
and may strip the nut inserts.

Fig. 19 Mark the skimmer opening
on liner and cut an area 1.5” inside
that mark.

Fig. 20 Place skimmer faceplate
through liner and place into
skimmer for alignment.

Fig. 21 Skimmer faceplate is
properly placed when hinge is on the
bottom.

PL

!

STEP 8

Add rock and gravel

Rocking in the

Pondless

• Add 1 ½” to 2” size gravel into the

basin up to the side of the basin.

(See fig. 25)

• A nishing layer of decorative

gravel can be added to the top
if desired.

8

®

Waterfall

Fig. 22 Using an awl, poke holes
through the liner at screw holes; tem­porarily screw top corners into place.

• Set larger boulders (6” – 18”)

around the perimeter to sup­port the edges of the basin. The
plumbing from the MicroFalls
filter should be brought over
a slightly lowered edge of the
liner and to the location of the
MicroPondless® Vault. Boulders
and gravel can be used to hide
the plumbing. (See fig. 26)

®

Fig. 23 After alignment remove face­plate and apply silicone sealant.

Fig. 25 Add gravel into the basin.

Fig. 24 Carefully replace the

skimmer faceplate into the silicone
lined opening.

Fig. 26 Placement of MicroSnorkel
Vault and MicroCentipede™ Module
within basin.

™

0

PD

!

STEP 8

• You can expect to use several tons

of stone and gravel for your water
feature. Talk to your Aquascape
dealer for help choosing the
quantity and sizes of stone
and gravel.

Rocking in the pond

• Start from the bottom and set the

largest character boulders first
against the vertical walls, then
stack the smaller boulders on top.

(See fig. 27)

• Be careful when placing any large

boulders so you don’t damage
the liner.

• The opening on the front of the
MicroSkim® can be hidden by
placing boulders on either side
and bridging a stone across,
creating a cave effect.

Note: Make sure the boulders
do not block the waterflow into
the skimmer.

• Cover all remaining at surfaces

with a couple inches of decora­tive gravel. This will help lock the

boulders in place, as well as cover
the remaining liner, protecting it
from ultraviolet rays, and giving
bacteria a place to colonize, not
to mention it just looks better.

• This is also a good time to add

lilies to the plant pockets. Remove
the lily from the pot and place it
into the lily pocket. Top-dress the
lily with a layer of gravel to hold
the soil into place. Lilies, if not
on hand at this time, can be
added after the pond is filled.

(See fig. 28)

Fig. 28 Loose gravel should be

placed in around the lily to keep
the soil from being stirred up in the
pond after the water is added.

Fig. 27 Starting at the bottom set the largest character boulders first then
fill in with the smaller ones.

PD/PL

STEP 9

Wash rocks and gravel

Wash the rock and gravel down in
order to remove the dust and dirt.
Use the pump provided with the
kit attached to a scrap section of
kink-free pipe. The pump can be

temporarily set in the MicroSkim® or
MicroSnorkel™ Vault, and the water
discharged to a drainage area in
the yard.

9

PD/PL

STEP 10

Hooking up the pump and plumbing

The MicroPondless® and MicroPond®
utilize the same style pump and
plumbing fittings. Connect the
pump plumbing kit to the pump and
tighten all clamps before lowering into
the MicroSkim® or MicroSnorkel™ Vault.
The plumbing assembly includes a
threaded union disconnect that
will allow you to remove the pump
when needed.

MicroPond® - The following steps are
specific to the MicroSkim®. Skip down if

Overow Installation

• Now install the barb tting and

clamp included with your kit into
the bulkhead fitting. Use some of
the silicone sealant to coat the
threads of the fitting, in order to
help provide a water-tight seal.
A PVC slip fitting has also been
included in case you are using
flexible PVC pipe.

• Attach and trench a section of kink-

free pipe into place (3’ minimum).

you are hooking up the pump in a
MicroSnorkel™ Vault.

• The MicroSkim® has two holes on ei-

ther side of the unit for the plumbing
to travel to the MicroFalls®. Choose
the plumbing hole that is most
convenient. The pipe simply passes
through the opening on either side
of the MicroSkim®. (See fig. 29)

• The pump’s electrical cord can be set

in the slot located in the back, top
edge of the skimmer.

Create a drainage area at the end
of the pipe by excavating a small
pit, roughly 16” in diameter and
at least 12” deep. Fill the pit with
excess gravel. This will allow water
in an overflow situation to flow
through the pipe and drain away
from the pond. (See fig. 30)

• A layer of scrap underlayment

fabric, soil or sod can be added to
cover the drainage area.

Overow

Exit Hole

Fig. 29 Plumbing exit holes

MicroPondless® - The kink-free

pipe from the MicroFalls® can
be trimmed to proper length and
inserted through the slot on the
side of the MicroSnorkel™ Vault.
Insert the barbed fitting on the

PD/PL

STEP 11

Add water

Fill up the MicroPondless® or
MicroPond® basin with water. The
MicroPond® should be filled just
below the level of the overflow in the
MicroSkim®. The MicroPondless® is
typically filled to a point just below
the gravel.

Note: We recommend adding EcoSys­tems® EcoStarter™ to dechlorinate
and properly condition city water prior
to introducing fish to your MicroPond®.
See owner’s manual section for tips on
adding fish to the pond.

end of the plumbing assembly into
the kink-free pipe and tighten the
clamp. The cord from the pump
can be buried just beneath the
stone and gravel and run over to
the electrical supply.

Fig. 30 Overow detail

10

PD/PL

STEP 12

Build the waterfall

Note: Filter mats and media nets are
not needed if installing a
MicroPondless® system.

Hook up the MicroFalls

• Prior to installing the waterfall lip,

make sure the face of the filter
and liner is clean and free of dust
and debris.

• Have someone hold the liner

against the MicroFalls® while you
line up the waterfall snout over
the liner. Make sure there are no
wrinkles and the liner comes up
above the sides of the MicroFalls®.

Be sure that you have a few inches

of slack liner along the front base
of your MicroFalls®. This will help
reduce tension on the waterfall lip

®

when placing boulders in front of
the unit. (See fig. 32)

• Temporarily install the waterfall lip

and liner to the MicroFalls
the two outermost screws. Using
an awl or nail, poke the first hole in
the liner all the way through to the
inside of the MicroFalls®. (See fig.

33 & 34) Be careful not to dam­age the threads on the nut inserts
when punching the holes with the
awl! Remove the awl or nail while

holding waterfall snout and liner
in place and begin threading one
of the screws into the filter. Repeat
this process for the other screw.

Note: Power tools are not recom­mended for installing the screws
and may strip the nut inserts.

®

using

• Now remove the waterfall lip

from the MicroFalls®, keeping
the screws installed through the
waterfall lip and liner.

• Place a thick bead of silicone

across the insert nuts on the front
of the MicroFalls® (See fig. 35 &

36). Pre-installing the two screws
in the earlier steps will make it
easy to line up the waterfall snout
after the silicone is applied and
will keep the silicone in as thick of
a bead as possible.

• Reattach the waterfall lip and liner

using the two pre-installed screws.

(See fig. 37)

• Using an awl or nail, poke the

remaining holes in the waterfall lip

and install the rest of the screws.

(See fig. 38)

• Let dry for at least one hour before

introducing water!

• Install the two lter pads into
the MicroFalls®.

• Add approximately 10 lbs of lava
stone or Aquascape BioBalls™ (not

included) into the media net. Set
the media bag on top of the filter
mats (see picture on page 16 for
an example).

*Please Note: Filter media is not
included with the MicroPondless®
Waterfall unit. The aggregate in
the basin provides a much larger
surface area for bacteria to grow
than the filter media do.

Fig. 32 Make sure you have a few
inches of slack liner along the front
base of your biofilter box

Fig. 36 Line up the waterfall lip. Fig. 37 Reattach the waterfall lip

Creating the waterfall

• Place two larger boulders on

either side of the waterfalls you
are creating in order to “frame”
the waterfalls. The water will be
running between the two larger
boulders you’ve set in place.

(See fig. 39)

• You can now begin to stack the

rocks between the two larger

Fig. 33 Poke holes in the liner all
the way through to the inside of the
filter box.

and liner.

boulders. These are the rocks that
the water will be running over, so
take your time and be creative.
Start with the larger rocks on the
bottom and work your way up to
the smaller ones on top.

• Small stones and gravel can be

used to fill in the gaps between the
larger waterfalls stones.

Fig. 34 Thread screws into the filter. Fig. 35 Place a thick bead of

Fig. 38 Install the rest of the screws and remove extra liner, using the water-

fall lip as a guide.

2 feet

Liner

Rock Rock

silicone across the insert nuts.

2 feet

Liner

Fig. 39 The water will be running between the two larger boulders.

11

Build the waterfall cont...

• The MicroFalls® is designed with a

plastic lip for the water to cascade
off. You can use the plastic lip or
hide the lip using the MicroFalls®
plastic waterfall stone (sold
separately) or even piece(s) of thin
(no more than 3/4” thick) natural
slate. (See figs. 40 & 41) This
stone can be attached to the Mi­croFalls® using Aquascape Black
Waterfall Foam (sold separately).
The black foam can be purchased
from your local Aquascape supplier
and will come in handy when filling

other gaps between the stones that
water is flowing over. The foam
keeps the water flowing over the
top of the waterfall stones. Without
the black waterfall foam, you may
lose some of the impact of your
waterfall as water travels beneath
the rocks.

• Place smaller rocks on the rock

ledge inside the MicroFalls® to
help hide it in the landscape.

(See fig. 42)

Fig. 40 If using a natural rock for your waterfall weir, make sure that

it is fairly thin. (no more than 3/4")

Fig. 41 If a thick rock along with a larger flow pump is used, the
water flow may be so great that it will flow over the sides of the MicroFalls

Small Rocks

®

.

PD/PL

STEP 13

Bring in the topsoil

• Add topsoil to the berm and
surrounding area in order to
provide a good substrate for
future landscape plantings.

Fig. 42 Place smaller rocks on rock ledge in the MicroFalls®.

PD/PL

STEP 14

Build the retaining wall

• Finish off the berm where the

MicroFalls® is buried by building
a small retaining wall out of boul­ders. This step may or may not be
needed, depending on the size of
the berm and the transition into
the existing landscape.

12

PD/PL

STEP 15

Plug in and tweak the waterfalls

• As soon as the MicroPondless®

or MicroPond® is filled and all
of the black waterfall foam is
dry (if used on project), you
may plug the pump in and test
the waterfall.

• You can tweak the waterfall by

placing smaller stones and gravel
on the waterfall cascades. This
will change the appearance and
sound of the water. Have fun
playing with the water coming
over the falls until you achieve the
desired effect.

PD/PL

STEP 16

Trim the liner

• With everything running, go

around the perimeter of the
pond with a pair of scissors and
trim off any excess liner, always
leaving several inches above the
water level as a precaution. The
remaining liner edges can be
covered with gravel.

Note: Do not trim the liner until the
waterfall is running and the pond
is filled to the desired level.
Prematurely trimming the liner
may cause leaks!

PD/PL

STEP 17

Mulch the berm

PD/PL

Clean up

STEP 18

• The entire area surrounding the

basin can now be mulched and
any surrounding plants added.

• You’re at the nal stages of the

project! All that is needed now is
to clean up the mess you’ve made
around the yard.

13

PD/PL

STEP 19

Owner’s manual

• Refer to the following pages in

this instruction booklet for care
and maintenance of your new
water feature.

• Contact your local Aquascape

supplier for more information
on routine maintenance using
EcoSystems® Products, as well
as other water treatment products
designed to help balance the
ecosystem of the pond.

PD/PL

STEP 20

ENJOY!

No further explanation needed for this step!

14

General Maintenance & Seasonal Care

PD/PL

Fine wines get better with age ... the
same can be said about your new

water feature! Be patient with the

new addition to your landscape - it’s
going to look better and be easier
to maintain with every season. The
filter system on the MicroPond® and
MicroPondless® Kits is designed
around the foundation of a balanced
ecosystem. The ultimate goal is
to have nature do the work ... not
you! It won’t happen overnight, but
it will happen. Don’t be surprised
if your new water garden begins
to grow algae. In general, it can
take anywhere from 2-6 weeks for

0

PD

!

The Ecosystem

The MicroSkim

Debris Net

The MicroSkim® filter is designed
to sweep the surface of the water
so that it is free from debris. The
net inside the skimmer is the first
filter stage of the MicroSkim
fig. 43). The net will collect leaves,
twigs, seeds, and other pond debris.
It takes approximately two to three
minutes every other week during
the summer to empty the debris

®

(See

the ecosystem to begin to develop.
Aquascape produces a complete
line of water treatment products
specifically designed to help you
maintain the water quality in your
water garden and help reduce
maintenance. See your Aquascape
supplier for information on the
complete line of Aquascape water
treatment products.

®

net. More frequent changes will be
required during the fall and spring
because of the quantity of leaves
falling off the surrounding trees.
It is a good habit during your first
season with the pond to periodi­cally lift the MicroSkim
check the quantity of debris in the
net. This is especially true in the
fall. Keep a mental note as to how
often your net has to be emptied.

®

cover and

It’s important that the debris net is
not allowed to become too full - too
much debris can reduce the water
flow to the pump, and may eventu­ally damage it.

Filter Brush Cartridge

The brushes are the second stage
of the MicroSkim® filter (See fig.

44). The brushes are designed to
handle any debris that finds its way

past the debris net. The filter brush
cartridge will not need maintenance
as frequently, since the net will
remove the majority of the debris
in the water. Remove and rinse the
brushes when you notice the flow
being restricted to the pump or an
excessive build-up of debris on
the brushes.

Fig. 43 The net inside the skimmer. Fig. 44 Filter brush cartridge inside the skimmer

15

PL

!

The MicroPondless® Vault

One of the greatest features of the

MicroPondless
very little maintenance. The system
can be run 24 hours a day or can
be turned off and on when desired.
Don’t forget to periodically check
that there is enough water in the Mi­croPondless® basin to properly oper­ate the waterfalls. When you hear
the pump “gurgling” or sucking air
you know it is time to add water.

®

filter is that there is

The Pump

The water reaching the pump should
be relatively free of any large debris,
thanks to the fact that the water
has to pass through layers of gravel
in the MicroPondless® basin. Occa­sionally, you may notice a reduction
in the amount of water coming over
your waterfall – this signals that
it may be time to clean the filter

PD/PL

The MicroFalls

screen on the bottom of the pump.
This process should take no longer
than five minutes. Simply unplug
and remove the pump from the
Signature Series
MicroSnorkel™ Vault and physically
remove any debris found on the bot­tom of the pump. You may also want
to physically remove any debris with
your hands that may have found its
way to the bottom of the
MicroSnorkel™ Vault, where the
pump sits (See fig. 45).

®

™

MicroSkim® or

Fig. 45 The MicroSnorkel™ Vault.

The MicroFalls® is the starting point
of your waterfall. The filter mats and
filter media provide a “home” for
the beneficial bacteria to live that
help clean the pond and provide
crystal clear water. The MicroFalls®
is designed to require once a year
cleaning when used in combination
of a MicroSkim® or MicroPondless®
Vault prefilter. These filters ensure
that large debris is filtered from the
water before it reaches the Micro­Falls®. DO NOT clean the lter mats
or filter media bag in the MicroFalls®
more than once a year. Cleaning
them, especially with chlorinated
tap water, more than once a year will

PD/PL

The Aquascape line of water
treatment products will help you
maintain healthy, crystal clear
water in your water feature. See
your Aquascape supplier for more
information on this product line,
as well as other products and
accessories from Aquascape that
are designed for your water feature.

Water Treatments

reduce or kill the beneficial bacteria
growing on these filters. Replace old
filter mats after several years, when
they begin to tear or fall apart.

Note: the MicroFalls® filter that
comes with the MicroPondless®
system does not include filter
mats or media bags. There is
no need for these items since
there is no pond.

16

PD/PL

Leaks

If you notice you have to add water
on a daily basis, you may have a
leak. We have found that 99% of
leaks occur along the perimeter
of the waterfalls and pond edges.
Small leaks are generally due to
the ground settling; this causes the
water to trickle over the edge
of the liner in the stream or water-

Fig. 45 Check the perimeter of the basin for
any areas that are wet.

fall. Leaks such as these can be
easily fixed.

Steps in nding a leak:

• Check the perimeter of the pond

for any areas that are wet. Damp
or saturated soil is usually a good
indicator that water is leaking
over the liner. (See fig. 45)

• Check to make sure any slow mov­ing sections of the stream/water­falls have not become obstructed
by leaves, plants or other debris,
causing the water to back up over
the edges of the liner.

• Investigate the outside perimeter

of the waterfall and stream. Look
for any water that is noticeably

Fig. 46 If you find the leak, pack soil beneath
the liner to raise the edge.

being diverted over the side of
the liner.

• Once you have found the leak,

simply pack soil beneath the liner
in order to raise the edge above
the water level. Hide the exposed
liner by replacing the gravel and
add mulch. (See figs. 46 & 47)

Fig. 47 Hide the exposed liner with gravel
and mulch.

PD/PL

Water clarity is usually at its best
in the fall because of fewer battles
with algae. It truly is an enjoyable
time of year. Here are some things
that you can do to keep your water
garden looking good.

• There may be increasing num­bers of yellow leaves this time
of year, so prune them off all of
your plants. Your lilies–tropical
and hardy–should still be going
strong, at least until the first
heavy frost.

• Stop fertilizing your aquatic plants

when the weather starts getting
cooler. This lets them know the
season is coming to an end.

• When your water temperature

gets down around 50 F° (10° C)
or so, stop feeding your fish. If you
continue feeding them, you could
cause major health problems for
your little aquatic friends.

• Enjoy the good water quality! In the

fall, water is almost always very
clear because of the cooler tem­peratures and the full, lush plants.

• About this time, the foliage starts

falling off the trees, and the pond

Fall & Winter Maintenance

fills up with wet soggy leaves.
This is one time of year when your
pond may require daily mainte­nance. (See fig. 48) If you have a
skimmer, you’ll probably have to
empty the debris net every day to
keep up with the influx of leaves.
Some of the leaves will undoubt­edly sink to the bottom, although
you can net these pretty easily
before they start to break down.
Don’t knock yourself out snag­ging every single leaf. Some left
in little areas here and there will
give insects and frogs a place
to overwinter.

• If you’ve left a little too much or­ganic matter, it may start looking
like a tall glass of sweet-tea from
the south.

But don’t fear. Removing excess

debris, and adding activated carbon
should clear it right up.

• As it gets cold, the lilies and mar­ginals will have all but died for
the season, and the trees are just
about bare. The fish are spending
more time on the bottom and are
slowing down. Now you can cut

Note: Several of the steps do not apply to MicroPondless® systems.

Fig. 48 Remove excess debris from your pond.

17

Fall & Winter Maintenance cont...

back most of the dead plant ma­terial and remove the tropicals.
Cut back your cattails above the
water level, or better yet, leave
them up to see how magnificent
they look in the winter. (See

fig. 49)

Fig. 49 Cut back dead plant material.

• If you’re fortunate enough to

be where it stays warm all year
round, you’re set for the winter.

• If you live up north, you’ll begin

to see ice forming. Some areas
may still have plants growing,
and frisky fish, but the majority

of us look at our ponds from the
inside for the rest of the year. If
that sounds familiar, you have a
choice. You can either keep your
pond running, or shut it down.

• To shut your pond down, rst

unplug your pump and pull it out
of the water. Store the pump in a
frost-free location, ideally sub­merged in a bucket of water. (See
fig. 50) If you have a MicroPond

®

and have fish, an AquaForce™
pump bubbling the water surface
will oxygenate the water. (See
fig. 51) In all but extremely low
temperatures, the bubbling of
the pump will also keep a hole
open in the ice to allow for a gas
exchange, keeping your fish alive.
it is not necessary to keep a hole
open in the ice if you don’t
have fish.

• If your area experiences long peri­ods of sub-zero weather, you may
consider adding a floating de-icer.
Controlled by a thermostat, the
unit only runs when the water
temperature is at or below freez­ing, heats the water to just above
that, and then shuts off again.
See your Aquascape supplier for
products to help your pond during
the winter.

• If you use a oating de-icer, place

it away from the bubbling water,
as the water movement can cause
the heated water to move away
from the de-icer, making it run
more than necessary.

• The other option is to keep your

stream and waterfall running.

Fig. 50 An AquaForce

™

pump will

oxygenate the water in your pond.

This will require some baby­sitting to make sure an ice dam
does not form, causing water to
run out of the MicroPondless
MicroPond® basin. Also, be sure
to keep your water feature topped
off so your pump continues to
function properly. You may have
to bring buckets of water from
your house, or run a hose into the
pond about once a week to keep
everything running smoothly. If
you make the extra effort to keep
your falls running throughout the
winter, you’ll see beautiful ice
formations and patterns around
the falls and streambeds.

The most important thing is to have
fun with your water feature all year
long. Keep some of these key main­tenance issues in mind, and it will
be smooth sailing. In the meantime,
stay warm!

®

/

Now your basin is ready for winter!

18

Fig. 51 Store the pump in a frost-free location,

ideally submerged in a bucket of water.

PD/PL

Spring Maintenance

Spring is simply the most exciting
time of year. In all climates, there’s
fresh new growth all over the land­scape, and everything is just burst­ing into life. Your water feature is no
different. As things slowly awaken
from their winter hibernation, there
are some things that you can do to
make sure your water feature gets
off to a good start this spring.

Clean Up Your Act!

Excess organic matter in the water
feature can lead to some real algae
problems later in the season. During
the winter, your water feature has
been a debris magnet, collecting ev­ery dropped leaf, branch, seedpod,
nut, or piece of garbage that blows
in its direction.

This is where a good spring cleaning
comes in. You’ll need to clean up all
of the debris on the basin or pond,
the waterfall, and the debris in
the Signature Series™ MicroFalls®.
Wash down the rocks and gravel
with the garden hose and pump out
the dirty water. (See fig. 52) You
can use the waterfall pump from the
kit attached to a scrap section of
pipe or a discharge hose purchased
from your local hardware store.
Continue to wash and pump until
the water coming from the pump is
relatively clean.

Reinstall the waterfall pump in the
MicroSnorkel™ Vault or MicroSkim®
and reconnect the plumbing. Fill
it back up to the proper level. The
waterfall is ready to be turned
back on.

A Few Final Tips...

If you are going to change anything
or do a full clean-out, it is best to
get that done while the water is
still cold, as this will cause the
least disruption to your basin’s
vital balance, leaving less chance
for algae growth. Performing these
basic house, or should we say basin,
cleaning chores every spring will en­sure that you will get off to a good,
balanced start to the season.

Fig. 52 Wash down the basin rocks to removed matted algae. Start at the
top and work your way down, while pumping out the dirty water that is
collecting on the bottom. Make sure not to scrub out all the algae; some will
prove beneficial in developing your ecosystem.

19

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UNITE!

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20

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For more information on care and maintenance, please refer to Aquascape’s Ecosystem Pond book or visit www.aquascapeinc.com

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98104.052009