AquaCraft VS1 User Manual

www.aquacraftmodels.com

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• Never attempt to swim after a stalled R/C boat.

• Never operate your R/C boat while standing in the water.

• Never operate your R/C boat in the presence of swimmers.

• Always use a Personal Flotation Device (PFD) when boarding and operating your retrieval craft, i.e. Jon
boat or duck boat. NOTE: Because of the sharp running hardware included with this R/C boat, we do not
recommend a rubber blow up raft.

• R/C boat running hardware is very sharp. Be very careful when working on and around the metal parts.

• While the motor is running pay close attention to the propeller. Do not come in contact with the propeller at
any time the engine is running or serious injury will result.

• AquaCraft products are to be used by ages 14 and over.

WARNING:

www.aquacraftmodels.com

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™

ITEMS INCLUDED

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1. VS1 Hull and Cowl

2. Throttle Outer Pushrod Tube

3. Throttle Cable (Gold)

4. Rudder Cable (Silver)

5. Screw Bag

6. Antenna Tube

WARRANTY

AquaCraft will warrant your VS1 for 90 days after the purchase from
defects in materials or workmanship of original manufacture. AquaCraft,
at their option, will repair or replace at no charge, the incorrectly made
part. This warranty does not cover damage caused by crash, abuse,
misuse, alteration or accident. To return your boat for repairs you need
to provide proof of purchase. Your store receipt or product invoice will
suffi ce. IN NO EVENT SHALL THE PURCHASER BE ENTITLED TO
ANY INCIDENTAL, SPECIAL, INDIRECT OR CONSEQUENTIAL
DAMAGES, WHETHER RESULTING FROM THE USE, MISUSE OR
INABILITY TO USE THE PRODUCT OR FROM DEFECTS IN THE
PRODUCT. This warranty gives you specifi c legal rights and you may
also have other rights, which vary from state to state. (Outside USA
and Canada, contact local importer for warranty information.)

Hobby Services

3002 N. Apollo Drive, Suite 1

Champaign, Illinois 61822

Attn: Service Department

Phone: [phone]:00 am - 5:00 pm Central Time M-F

E-mail: [e-mail]

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7. On/Off Switch Pushrod

8. Fuel Tank

9. Radio Box Cover

10. Hardware Bag

11. Tank Mount Bag
Decal Sheet

STANDARD REPAIR SERVICE

After the 90-day warranty has run out you can still have your VS1
repaired for a service fee by the experts at AquaCraft.™ To speed up
the repair process, please follow these four simple steps:

Important Note: For standard repair service you must specify
whether you wish the charges to be billed COD or if you wish to be
notifi ed of the charges so you can send a check.

1. Please return the ENTIRE system, boat and radio.

2. Make sure batteries are removed from the transmitter.

3. Send written instructions which include a list of all items returned,
a THOROUGH explanation of the problem or problems of the
service needed. Be sure to include your return address and
daytime phone number. If you have access to e-mail please provide
us with your e-mail address to help speed communication.

4. Send to the address above.

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INTRODUCTION

SPECIFICATIONS

Thank you for purchasing the AquaCraft™ VS1! We want
the time you spend with your new R/C boat to be fun and
successful so please fully read the manual. If for any reason
you think this R/C model is not for you, return it to your local
hobby dealer immediately. Your hobby dealer cannot accept
returns on any model after final assembly or after your boat
has been operated.

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

• Never, ever, attempt to swim after a stalled R/C boat.
Do not get in the water for any reason to retrieve your
boat. To aid you in retrieving a stalled R/C boat, set up a
fi shing reel with a tennis ball tied to the end of the line.
Or better yet, get yourself a small boat so you can row
out and pick up your R/C boat. Remember to use a PFD
any time you enter your retrieval craft.

• AquaCraft products are to be used by ages 14 and over.

• Do not touch the propeller anytime the motor is running.

Pay equally close attention to items such as loose clothing,
shirtsleeves, ties, scarves, long hair or anything that may
become entangled in the spinning prop. If your fi ngers,
hands, etc., come in contact with the spinning propeller,
you may be severely injured.

• The speed and mass of this boat can infl ict property
damage and severe personal injury if a collision occurs.
Never run this boat in the presence of swimmers or where
the possibility of collision with people or property exists.

• Glow engines produce heat. Do not touch any part of your
motor until it has cooled.

VS1 SPECIFICATIONS:

Hull Length: 28" (710mm)
Overall Length: 34-1/4" (870mm)
Width: 11-1/2" (290mm)
Height: 5-1/2" (140mm)
Weight (less fuel): 4lbs, 2oz

VS1 FEATURES:

ARR Pro-built construction
Race-winning heritage
Lightweight wood, foam and ABS construction
High-gloss, fuel resistant, natural wood fi nish
Water-resistant radio box
Molded waterproof radio box cable output
8 oz. molded plastic fuel tank
Pull-pull steering system

BOAT TERMINOLOGY

TUNNEL HULL: Is a style of boat that traps air between two
sponsons to gain lift.
BOW: The front of the boat.
TRANSOM: Aft most structure on the back of the boat.
PORT: This is the left side of the boat when aboard and
facing the front (bow). An easy way to remember this is that
port and left both contain four letters.
STARBOARD: This is the right side of the boat when aboard
and facing the front (bow).
HULL: The body of the boat.
DECK: The top of the hull.
COWL or CANOPY: Removable ABS top.
SPONSON: Left or right structure this type of boat rides on.
KEELSON: The inner side of the sponsons.
SKEG: The rudder blade on your outboard that extends
below the propeller shaft.

• This boat is controlled by radio signals, which are susceptible
to possible interference from other R/C transmitters, paging
systems, or other electrical noise. Before turning your radio
transmitter and receiver on, make sure no one else in the
area is operating a radio on the same frequency (channel).

• In the event that weeds become entangled in the propeller,
stop the motor before attempting to remove them.

• If your VS1 should happen to stall, water currents will slowly
carry it to shore. The bad news is that the boat could be
carried to the opposite shore. When surveying areas to run
your boat, keep variables in mind such as wind direction, size
of the lake, etc. It is not advisable to run R/C boats on any
free-fl owing bodies of water such as creeks or rivers.

MANUAL SPECIFICATION AND

DESCRIPTION CHANGES

All pictures, descriptions, and specifi cations found in this
instruction manual are subject to change without notice.
AquaCraft maintains no responsibility for inadvertent errors
in this manual.

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PARTS NEEDED TO

COMPLETE YOUR VS1

RADIO SYSTEM:

• Futaba
Harness (FUTK2020) OR Futaba 4PK 2.4GHz Transmitter,
Receiver and Switch Harness (FUTK4900)

• Steering Servo, Futaba S3305 (FUTM0045), OR Futaba
S9405 (FUTM0098)

• Throttle Servo, Futaba S3115 (FUTM0415) OR Futaba
S3201 (FUTM0034)

• Receiver pack, DuraTrax® 5-cell 6V NiMH (DTXM2011)

• Futaba Receiver Pack Wall Charger (FUTM1705)

• 8AA batteries (transmitter) (3PM Only)

• Boat stand

ENGINE:

• O.S.® 21XM Marine Outboard Engine (OSMG1721)
or equivalent

®

3PM 2.4GHz Transmitter, Receiver and Switch

ACCESSORIES NEEDED TO

OPERATE YOUR VS1

• TorqMaster™ Electric Starter (HCAP3200)

• 30% Boat Fuel (ODOP3130, Quart) or 50% Boat Fuel
(ODOP3150, Quart)

• Hot Shot™ 2 Glow Igniter (HCAP2520)

• Hand Crank Fuel Pump (HCAP3015)

• Fuel Line (AQUB6903)

• Fuel Filter (GPMQ4150)

• Glow Plug Wrench (GPMP2000)

• AquaCraft GrimRacer™ Pro Radio Box Tape (AQUB9514)

• AquaCraft GrimRacer Speed Grease (AQUB9500)

OPTIONAL PERFORMANCE PROPS

• AquaCraft GrimRacer 40x52/3 Metal 3-blade Prop
(AQUB9720)

• AquaCraft GrimRacer 40x53 Metal Prop (AQUB9715)

EXTRA SUPPLIES

As with any hobby, it is a good idea to assemble a useful
collection of tools and accessories to bring along when
you head to the pond. Here are some items you will want to
keep handy:

Extra “AA” batteries
Extra glow plugs
Spare prop
Small standard screwdriver
Hobby knife
Hex wrenches

Waders or rubber boots
Paper towels
Spray-on cleaner
Sunglasses
Sun block
Folding table
Lawn chair
First-Aid kit
Cooler with plenty of ice and water
Canopy or shelter

TOOLS NEEDED TO COMPLETE

YOUR MODEL

• Soldering Iron

• Solder

• Small Phillips Screwdriver

• 5-64 Hex Wrench

• Needle Nose Pliers

• Hand Drill

• Drill Bits

• Silicone Sealer

• Masking Tape

• 12-Minute Epoxy

• Denatured Alcohol

• Paper Towels

• Rotary Tool with Cut-Off Wheel

• Side Cutters

Your VS1 does not include a boat stand. You can build one
out of wood or make one from PVC tubing that you buy from
your local home store.

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ASSEMBLY

INSPECT THE HULL

1. Check the hull for any open gaps in the seams. We have
done our best to make sure the seams are closed, but it is
still necessary to check it over. I like to use the tip of a hobby
knife to probe around the seams. If you suspect a seam
might be open or allow water to enter the structure you need
to seal it. It is best to do this with 12 minute epoxy. Mix a small
amount of epoxy and work it into the seam using a razor
blade or small acid brush. Keep some denatured alcohol and
paper towel handy to wipe away any excess epoxy. It is also
a good time to look for any exposed wood and seal it from
the water, including the wood parts of the cowl.

and a long, fl at sanding block. Keep the bottom edges sharp
and re-seal any exposed wood. TAKE YOUR TIME! The
fi nished sponsons must be parallel to each other and fl at.

Grimracer says: Blueprinting is the

process of straightening and/or matching

parts. When we talk about blueprinting
the bottom of your VS1, we are mostly talking about the
bottom of the sponsons. Your VS1, like other hand built
performance boats, will likely need to be trued (blueprinted)
get maximum performance.

To do this, you are going to need an 11" sanding bar with 80
grit sandpaper as well as 220 grit sandpaper; a fl at surface
from which to base your progress; as well as some sealer to
re-seal any areas of clear coat you might sand through.

2. Place the boat on a fl at surface and check the alignment
of the sponsons. Your sponsons should be parallel to each
other and touch the fl at surface at the same time.

3. Place a straightedge on the bottom of each sponson (ride
pad). Make sure the last 10"-11" are fl at. If not, you can
“blueprint” them - or make them identical - using sandpaper

To begin, set the boat on your fl at surface and put fi nger
pressure on the top back sides of the sponsons. We need to
do this to see if the two sponsons are parallel to each other.
If the boat rocks from side to side AT ALL, it’s best to match
them. Also take a look down the length of each sponson.
The sponsons work best if they are dead fl at from the back
of the sponsons to around 11" forward of that point.

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If your boat’s sponsons are not parallel to each other, you
will have to decide which sponson needs to be changed. I
like to pick the sponson that is lower in back and work this
sponson forward to match the other.

Load your sanding block with 80 grit sandpaper and place
it on the lower sponson. Start removing material off the
sponson, making sure you keep the sanding block fl at.
Check your progress often and work slowly. Be careful not
to round off any of the edges on the bottom of the boat.
They need to remain sharp.

DRILLING THE TRANSOM FOR THE ENGINE

Parts list and tools needed for this step:

Engine mount template (back cover of this manual)
Hand drill 3/32” drill 5/32” drill
Masking tape Toothpick Epoxy

Carefully cut the engine mount template out from the back
of this manual. Position it on the back of the transom using
tape to hold it in place. Using a 3/32" drill bit, drill the On-Off
hole location as well as pre-drill the holes for the motor mount
bolts. Switch to the larger 5/32" bit and re-drill the four motor
mount bolt locations. Remove the pattern and do your best to
seal the holes using epoxy and a toothpick. After the epoxy
has cured it’s a good idea to pass the appropriate drill bit back
through the holes to clean out any excess epoxy buildup.

Once you have the two sponsons parallel it’s time to move
on, making sure the sponson bottoms are fl at. You will
have noticed that the sponson that you just sanded had
some low spots; if you did not get all the low spots out do
your best to remove them, making sure you do not change
the sponsons’ angle. Once that sponson is completely fl at,
sand the other sponson bottom fl at as well. Finish up with
some 220 grit sand paper.

After you have both sponsons parallel to each other and
the bottoms are dead fl at, you will have to reseal the bare
wood. I like to use clear catalyzed auto paint but a good
fi nishing epoxy works well, too. Note: Avoid laminating
epoxies for this process.

After the sealer is cured, scrape the sponson bottoms fl at
with a single edge razor blade. If you need to apply more
sealer do so now. When that is cured, repeat the scraping
process and fi nish by scuffi ng the sponson bottoms with a
red scratch pad.

INSTALLING THE CABLE OUTPUT, SERVO
TRAY AND SERVOS

List of parts and tools needed to complete this step
(Collect the parts and supplies you need and let’s get
started. This step goes quite fast.):

Output (VS1 Kit)
Eight 2 x 8mm wood screws (VS1 Kit)
Servo Tray (VS1 Kit)
Throttle servo Steering servo Switch harness
Hand drill 1/16" drill bit 5/64" drill bit
Small tube of silicone sealer

4. Test fi t the cowl and make sure there is foam fl otation in
the front. Again check for any exposed wood and seal it at
this time if needed.

1. Place a small amount of silicone sealer onto the back of
the output and screw it into place on the back of the radio

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